Connecticut Food & Farm - Twenty Year Plan

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The Twenty-Year Plan

by Hilary Adorno John Bourdeau believes his inspiration to become a chef came to him in the form of a fictional character we (of a certain age) all remember: sitcom darling Jack Tripper, the klutzy odd-man-out with two female roommates in Three’s Company. John claims it was because Jack was a chef, but what woman-loving-man didn’t think Jack’s “situation” was clutch?

Raised in Woodbury, as soon as he could reach the oven, John was experimenting in the kitchen. First it was cinderblock-like cakes from-scratch (no boxed mixes for this kid), but with time and persistence, John was soon turning out delicious baked goods for his family. John’s first gig was at the age of 15 through a cooperative work program at his high school, baking bread for a grocery store.

It was the only job he ever quit, but the miserable 2:00 a.m. start time and lack of challenge became very unpleasant. While John enjoyed baking, Jack Tripper was not a baker.

At the tender age of 16, John started working the line at Heminway's in Watertown, a massive restaurant with 200+ continental items on the menu and a weekend crush of patrons that could make a seasoned pro sweat. Under the tutelage of CIA grad Chef John Dominello, there was no time for baloney once hordes of tickets started hitting the kitchen. Chef Dominello instilled a simple mantra in his staff: “Just do things right.” John Bourdeau did things right for four years at Heminway's and gained a hands-on education more valuable than any culinary school could provide.

With the goal of opening his own restaurant, but needing capital to do it, 20-year-old John created a 20-year plan to bring his vision to reality. His logic was conservative and hopefully-worst-casescenario. Twenty years later, he opened Main Street Grill in Watertown; talk about a prophecy realized on schedule.

At the end of his tenure at Heminway's, John contemplated the most practical way to earn the most money in the shortest amount of time. He was offered a job as an apprentice for a construction company with a starting pay that doubled anything he could make in a restaurant. He learned carpentry from the ground up. After six years, he hung his own shingle, primarily servicing clients in Manhattan, commuting from Woodbury. During his spare time, he worked with caterers, tended bar, and read food industry periodicals to keep up with current trends. His reading

John Shyloski photos material of choice was Gourmet Magazine, a subscription he acquired at 12 years old.

Eager to transition back into restauranteering, John partnered with his sister’s husband, Chef Antonio Caldareri of Montreal, to open Lucia Ristorante in New Milford in 2007. To further develop his knowledge base, John managed the front of the house, even though his heart was in the kitchen. He also he continued to operate his carpentry business in Manhattan until Lucia was successful enough to support the two families operating it.

Being a chef-owner brings a litany of challenges not typically faced by a chef hired to work in someone else’s kitchen. Executive chef responsibilities traditionally entail developing menus, managing the kitchen personnel, ordering and stocking provisions, food preparation, and recipe creation. In addition to a chef’s responsibilities, a chef-owner gets into the nuts and bolts of operating a business and oversees details such as table settings; hiring, training, and managing all staff; furniture, fixtures, kitchen design; financial management; public relations; marketing… and the list goes on. It’s daunting, to say the least.

In 2012, John opened Main Street Grill which I considered to be one of the finest restaurants in Litchfield County. An important component of this remarkable dining experience is entering the space – a complete departure from the bustling street on which it sits. When the door closes behind you, you are welcomed into a wonderful juxtaposition of exposed brick, wide-plank wood floors, and lofty ceilings illuminated by thoughtfully -placed, alluring light – all created by John’s skillful hands and creative mind. The menu consists of uniquely-conceived, but completely-accessible “New American” fare that ebbs and flows depending on what was in season.

On my last visit, John ordered for our table. For starters, we shared a plate of premium chicken nachos, served in a way and portion that was easy to handle – a rare feat – complemented by a pile of mussels swimming in a coconut curry. We cleansed our palates with a fresh kale salad, thoughtfully garnished with pecorino and flaky croutons, and finished with pork tenderloin stuffed with chorizo, accompanied by exquisitely-cooked haricots verts and mashed potatoes, along with a halved, roasted red pepper stuffed

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IN ADDITION TO A CHEF’S RESPONSIBILITIES, A CHEF-OWNER GETS INTO THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF OPERATING A BUSINESS AND OVERSEES DETAILS SUCH AS TABLE SETTINGS; HIRING, TRAINING, AND MANAGING ALL STAFF; FURNITURE, FIXTURES, KITCHEN DESIGN; FINANCIAL MANAGEMENT; PUBLIC RELATIONS; MARKETING… AND THE LIST GOES ON. IT’S DAUNTING, TO SAY THE LEAST.

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with quinoa, black beans, corn, and spinach, covered with a generous helping of melted Monterey jack, resting in a delicious tomato purée. The last thing I order when dining out is a vegetarian meal, so knock me over with a feather – that stuffed pepper was mind-blowing!

John opened The Owl in 2016 – a beautifully-located, ridiculously -cool wine bar, steps away from the southernmost point of Lake Waramaug, bordered by three Connecticut towns (Washington, Warren, and Kent). This was a gutsy move considering the area’s occupancy waxes and wanes by as much as 50% off-season. During colder months, the intimate space comfortably seats 25. Guests can enjoy their libations by firelight in seats draped in faux fur pelts. Come more temperate weather, patronage can increase to 65, thanks to a gorgeous al fresco patio and lawn area, which can be tented for special events for as many as 100. The Owl can be reserved for private parties and offers a full catering menu from small plates and passed hors d'oeuvres to four-course sit-down dinners. In early June 2017, John surprisingly closed the doors on the successful Main Street Grill due to an inability to reach a mutually-acceptable agreement with his landlord. The initial takeaway from this experience tastes bitter, but provides a valuable message for all chef-owners. A gentleman’s agreement will not protect a chef-owner like a professionally-drafted one in tandem with a detailed business plan. This brings to light just one more obstacle faced by chef-owners: there is a multitude of substantial considerations to deliberate in addition to the menu. While this is tragic news for patrons of Main Street Grill, I have no doubt this tenacious, talented, and good-hearted man will continue thrive both at The Owl and whatever amazing endeavor he cooks up in the future.

On August 27, 2017, John joins chefs Dan Magill of Arethusa al tavolo (Bantam), Chris Eddy of Winvian (Morris), Joel Viehland (formerly of Community Table and his upcoming venture Swyft), Carol Byer-Alcorace of New Morning Market (Woodbury) and Dennis DeBellis, Jr. of John’s Café (Woodbury) to cater a benefit for Flanders Nature Center and Land Trust, to be hosted at Van Vleck Farm & Nature Sanctuary in Woodbury. If gastronomy was a competitive sport, this would be my Olympic team.

Established in 1963, situated on 2,200 acres, Flanders Nature Center & Land Trust is a non-profit organization that focuses on environmental education and the acquisition, conservation, and stewardship of open space The land was bequeathed

by Natalie Van Vleck (1901-1981), an artist, farmer, businesswoman, and environmentalist.

Contributors Hilary Adorno

has a diverse range of interests, including, but not limited to: true crime, airline disasters, fine linen, and luxurious stationery.

Thankfully, statistics reveal she has an infinitesimal chance of witnessing a violent crime or being in a plane crash. Conversely, she suffers tremendous exposure to 600+ thread count sheets and an incurable addiction to Crane & Co. paper.

Paula Deutz

as been into photography for more than 40 years, shooting for friends and corporate and non-profit clients. She is an accomplished artist, winning awards for her drawing, photography, and ice sculpture. Paula lives in the South Windsor area and is active in the PATH International equine therapy world. She is currently looking to start an equine therapy program in the Central CT area.

Winter Caplanson,

our editor in chief, camera in hand, is perpetually in seek-andshare mode of where the magic lies at break-your-heart-beautiful farms and hidden gem eateries, in kitchens where overachieving chefs create dishes that make flavor sparks fly, and wherever makers operate thrillingly beyond and in defiance of the box.

Kelley Citroni

lives on the third floor, and would rather carry 155 grocery bags at once than make more than one trip from the car.

Michele and Billy Collins

farm Fair Weather Acres in Rocky Hill with their two boys Andrew and Shaun. Billy spends his summers in the fields, avoiding people and conversation whenever possible.

Meanwhile, Michele runs the farm market, engaging anyone and everyone in conversation, and speaking for Billy.

Diane Diederich

is a photographer from Union. She built a photo studio to look like a barn on the outside, which is why she is allowed to shoot for CT Food and Farm Magazine.

Gena Golas

spends most days in the kitchen, but on her time off this summer you can find her on a picnic blanket at a farmers' market, hopefully eating an apple cider donut

Laura Graham

after decades of urban European living, will be found blissing out this summer in her vegetable garden filled with heirloom vegetables - some from Select Seeds in Union, and some from Adam's Garden of Eden in Pawcatuck. The rhubarb is a transplant from her family's 1820 farm in East Baldwin, ME.

Winter Caplanson photo

Rebecca Hansen

likes to catch memes before they hatch as the copywriter for KAYAK.com. She is passionate about drinking strong coffee, shopping at used bookstores, and keeping her daughter hydrated.

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-William Carlos Williams

Winter Caplanson photo

In summer, the song sings itself.