Hilary Adorno - Connecticut Food & Farm

HILARY ADORNO CONNECTICUT

FOOD

AND

FARM

An insider's guide sharing the stories of Connecticut's local food movement created by a Kitchen Cabinet of farmers, chefs, and makers from around the state.

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retailers, Kimberly and Clint Thorn put themselves at what should be a disadvantage. Five miles north of Litchfield center, atop the crest of Town Hill Road, rests Thorncrest Farm, its immaculate, family-built barn, their inviting chocolate shop named Milk House Chocolates, and a herd of Holstein and Jersey cows living a life better than Riley could have imagined. If the Thorns weren’t offering an extraordinary product, their location would be considered a tremendous obstacle. But, this is a story of how when you do something well, you can do what you want.

Circa 1984

The genesis of Thorncrest can be traced to the 1980s at Wamogo High School where Kimberly and Clint met as classmates. Clint grew up working on his family’s dairy farm in Goshen, and Bantam-native Kimberly was studying horse breeding. The two began dating and the relationship sustained through college.

As part of a work-study program, Kimberly worked on a Thoroughbred farm in Ireland where, thanks to a local sweet shop, she enjoyed confections made on site with simple, locally-sourced ingredients – superior to anything she had stateside.

During a summer break, Clint joined Kimberly in Ireland and they spent several months subsisting on a diet of artisan chocolate. After returning to Connecticut, they married and got to work making their own sweets with milk from Clint’s dairy cows.

Kimberly quickly realized she needed a different flavor profile to recreate the chocolate they had fallen in love with while roaming Europe.

It takes a Craftsman

While raising their sons, Garret and Lyndon , 23 and 27, respectively, Clint meticulously developed a first-class line of bovines concentrating on flavor over production – a complete contrast to the American dairy industry’s sole focus on quantity. Clint had to deconstruct to reconstruct the perfect herd of dairy cows for chocolate making, including tapping into a line of cattle DNA in cryogenics storage from the 1960s. Every cow in the Thorns' barn can be traced genetically to the first cow Clint painstakingly selected: The Hanoverhill Jethro Koral of Ontario, one of the last in a line of North American Holstein dairy cows paternally and maternally bred for flavor. Because the Thorns run a tight ship, they only have slots open for cows that make milk with the taste profile their owners prefer. So, in the 1990s, the Thorns formed a relationship with a Mennonite farmer named Omar from Lancaster County,

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Pennsylvania. Omar happily pays a premium for any of the Thorn’s “castoffs,” as he knows they are some of the finest dairy cows available. Omar puts them to work siring calves or producing milk used for Turkey Hill Ice Cream production.

As if raising two kids and establishing a genetic dynasty wasn’t enough, Clint is also a self-taught woodworker, using 200-year-old techniques to create astonishinglydetailed furniture from tables, benches, and chairs to vanities and chests. Clint’s woodworking business, The Open Talon, is named for the ball and claw foot design made famous by 18th-century cabinet maker Thomas Chippendale. Clint’s woodworking is quite literally breathtaking, so if you’re in the market for high-design, custom-made furniture, call him immediately.

The Magic is in the Milk

Clint’s devotion to detail was met in lockstep by Kimberly.

She worked diligently to developand refine recipes for cheese and chocolate while honing a palate so sophisticated that she can taste the slightest stress her cows may experience, as well as their dietary changes and anything that comes in contact with her cows’ skin – which is why little or nothing does. Kimberly will not compromise.

If any milk tastes the slightest bit off, it’s not put into production. The majority of Milk House’s 72+ unique chocolates are created by a single cow in the Thorn’s herd; Kimberly has a deep understanding of how to capitalize on the milk’s flavor in her creations.

Even the Thorncrest barn was intentionally constructed using an Amish design to create stress-free surroundings with nature-made climate control, whisking heat away and encouraging natural breezes. (Further bolstering the Thorns’ devotion to their cows’ comfort: my original interview was scheduled in March, but due to an unseasonably cold day, we had to reschedule. The Thorns were not willing to negotiate their cows’ environment forany reason.) Kimberly doesn’t attach her family name to a product that isn’t sourced, made, and sold on site; as such, Milk House Chocolates can only be found on her shelves.

The Thorn’s cows are milked for ten months and have a two-month reprieve, commonly at the end of their pregnancies. Because certain milk is needed to produce specific chocolates at different times of the year, a complex breeding schedule is maintained. For example, Karissma is responsible for producing the milk needed forCabernet Sauvignon and Champagne Truffles. Her breeding schedule dictates that she must be ready to calf in time for the holiday favorites at the beginning of November. One autumn,

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Karissma tricked the Thorns into thinking she was pregnant, but an ultrasound revealed otherwise; there were no Karissma truffles for Thanksgiving and Christmas that year, devastating customers near and far. Another Thorncrest staple is a Jersey cow named Daydream. She is exclusively responsible for caramel. If she is on a break, her daughter Dream On steps up to the plate. Kimberly can tell the difference, but no one else can. All I know is that I stuffed so many Thorncrest caramels in my mouth that I should be able to tell!

All of the cows at Thorncrest eat a specifically-curated diet crafted to enhance the taste of their milk. Their hay is sourced on the property, with no pesticides or herbicides, and is cut younger than usual. Similar to fresh baby spinach or arugula, it’s better tasting and less coarse, but has the same nutritional value as their aged counterparts. This also means more work for the Thorn family because harvests occur more frequently. The family also watches its cows graze to make sure they’re grouped with friends to reduce the risk of tension. If cows don’t care for one another, akin to bad neighbors, the result is stress-milk, and Kimberly can taste it in a Goshen minute.

Fresh Comes First

When the Thorns constructed their barn in 2011, Lyndon, aged 17, was already an accomplished sawyer. With the exception of a few huge, weight-bearing beams, Lyndon milled every board.

Most of the wood was sourced from the property or from nearby locations. It stands at an impressive 61’ tall and is 25,000 sq. ft. Garret is no slouch either. He is he general manager of Thorncrest, shares in the production responsibilities, and oversees hay and compost sales. He also convinced his girlfriend, Keri McIntyre, to work in the chocolate shop for our visit; she was instrumental in hand-picking the chocolate featured in our photographs. Thorncrest Farm exists for no other reason than to produce the freshest and most wholesome products strengthened by the commitment of the Thorn family bond. Kimberly, Clint, Garret, and Lyndon don’t believe in slipshod work or caretaking. In fact, everything this family does is with precision, execution, and a smile.

Fresh comes first at Thorncrest Farm.

Thorncrest Farm is located at 280 Town Hill Rd., Goshen, and is open Wednesday through Saturday, 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. and Sunday, 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

To learn more about Milk House Chocolates and Kimberly’s onsite cheese- and yogurt- making classes, visit their website, call 860.309.2545, or e-mail tcfarmllc@optimum.net. For compost and hay sales, call Garret at 860.605.7222. Reach Clint at 860.307.6244 for furniture and woodworking or Lyndon at 860.307.6644 for wood milling – both at The Open Talon.

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The Twenty-Year Plan

by Hilary Adorno John Bourdeau believes his inspiration to become a chef came to him in the form of a fictional character we (of a certain age) all remember: sitcom darling Jack Tripper, the klutzy odd-man-out with two female roommates in Three’s Company. John claims it was because Jack was a chef, but what woman-loving-man didn’t think Jack’s “situation” was clutch?

Raised in Woodbury, as soon as he could reach the oven, John was experimenting in the kitchen. First it was cinderblock-like cakes from-scratch (no boxed mixes for this kid), but with time and persistence, John was soon turning out delicious baked goods for his family. John’s first gig was at the age of 15 through a cooperative work program at his high school, baking bread for a grocery store.

It was the only job he ever quit, but the miserable 2:00 a.m. start time and lack of challenge became very unpleasant. While John enjoyed baking, Jack Tripper was not a baker.

At the tender age of 16, John started working the line at Heminway's in Watertown, a massive restaurant with 200+ continental items on the menu and a weekend crush of patrons that could make a seasoned pro sweat. Under the tutelage of CIA grad Chef John Dominello, there was no time for baloney once hordes of tickets started hitting the kitchen. Chef Dominello instilled a simple mantra in his staff: “Just do things right.” John Bourdeau did things right for four years at Heminway's and gained a hands-on education more valuable than any culinary school could provide.

With the goal of opening his own restaurant, but needing capital to do it, 20-year-old John created a 20-year plan to bring his vision to reality. His logic was conservative and hopefully-worst-casescenario. Twenty years later, he opened Main Street Grill in Watertown; talk about a prophecy realized on schedule.

At the end of his tenure at Heminway's, John contemplated the most practical way to earn the most money in the shortest amount of time. He was offered a job as an apprentice for a construction company with a starting pay that doubled anything he could make in a restaurant. He learned carpentry from the ground up. After six years, he hung his own shingle, primarily servicing clients in Manhattan, commuting from Woodbury. During his spare time, he worked with caterers, tended bar, and read food industry periodicals to keep up with current trends. His reading

John Shyloski photos material of choice was Gourmet Magazine, a subscription he acquired at 12 years old.

Eager to transition back into restauranteering, John partnered with his sister’s husband, Chef Antonio Caldareri of Montreal, to open Lucia Ristorante in New Milford in 2007. To further develop his knowledge base, John managed the front of the house, even though his heart was in the kitchen. He also he continued to operate his carpentry business in Manhattan until Lucia was successful enough to support the two families operating it.

Being a chef-owner brings a litany of challenges not typically faced by a chef hired to work in someone else’s kitchen. Executive chef responsibilities traditionally entail developing menus, managing the kitchen personnel, ordering and stocking provisions, food preparation, and recipe creation. In addition to a chef’s responsibilities, a chef-owner gets into the nuts and bolts of operating a business and oversees details such as table settings; hiring, training, and managing all staff; furniture, fixtures, kitchen design; financial management; public relations; marketing… and the list goes on. It’s daunting, to say the least.

In 2012, John opened Main Street Grill which I considered to be one of the finest restaurants in Litchfield County. An important component of this remarkable dining experience is entering the space – a complete departure from the bustling street on which it sits. When the door closes behind you, you are welcomed into a wonderful juxtaposition of exposed brick, wide-plank wood floors, and lofty ceilings illuminated by thoughtfully -placed, alluring light – all created by John’s skillful hands and creative mind. The menu consists of uniquely-conceived, but completely-accessible “New American” fare that ebbs and flows depending on what was in season.

On my last visit, John ordered for our table. For starters, we shared a plate of premium chicken nachos, served in a way and portion that was easy to handle – a rare feat – complemented by a pile of mussels swimming in a coconut curry. We cleansed our palates with a fresh kale salad, thoughtfully garnished with pecorino and flaky croutons, and finished with pork tenderloin stuffed with chorizo, accompanied by exquisitely-cooked haricots verts and mashed potatoes, along with a halved, roasted red pepper stuffed

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IN ADDITION TO A CHEF’S RESPONSIBILITIES, A CHEF-OWNER GETS INTO THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF OPERATING A BUSINESS AND OVERSEES DETAILS SUCH AS TABLE SETTINGS; HIRING, TRAINING, AND MANAGING ALL STAFF; FURNITURE, FIXTURES, KITCHEN DESIGN; FINANCIAL MANAGEMENT; PUBLIC RELATIONS; MARKETING… AND THE LIST GOES ON. IT’S DAUNTING, TO SAY THE LEAST.

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with quinoa, black beans, corn, and spinach, covered with a generous helping of melted Monterey jack, resting in a delicious tomato purée. The last thing I order when dining out is a vegetarian meal, so knock me over with a feather – that stuffed pepper was mind-blowing!

John opened The Owl in 2016 – a beautifully-located, ridiculously -cool wine bar, steps away from the southernmost point of Lake Waramaug, bordered by three Connecticut towns (Washington, Warren, and Kent). This was a gutsy move considering the area’s occupancy waxes and wanes by as much as 50% off-season. During colder months, the intimate space comfortably seats 25. Guests can enjoy their libations by firelight in seats draped in faux fur pelts. Come more temperate weather, patronage can increase to 65, thanks to a gorgeous al fresco patio and lawn area, which can be tented for special events for as many as 100. The Owl can be reserved for private parties and offers a full catering menu from small plates and passed hors d'oeuvres to four-course sit-down dinners. In early June 2017, John surprisingly closed the doors on the successful Main Street Grill due to an inability to reach a mutually-acceptable agreement with his landlord. The initial takeaway from this experience tastes bitter, but provides a valuable message for all chef-owners. A gentleman’s agreement will not protect a chef-owner like a professionally-drafted one in tandem with a detailed business plan. This brings to light just one more obstacle faced by chef-owners: there is a multitude of substantial considerations to deliberate in addition to the menu. While this is tragic news for patrons of Main Street Grill, I have no doubt this tenacious, talented, and good-hearted man will continue thrive both at The Owl and whatever amazing endeavor he cooks up in the future.

On August 27, 2017, John joins chefs Dan Magill of Arethusa al tavolo (Bantam), Chris Eddy of Winvian (Morris), Joel Viehland (formerly of Community Table and his upcoming venture Swyft), Carol Byer-Alcorace of New Morning Market (Woodbury) and Dennis DeBellis, Jr. of John’s Café (Woodbury) to cater a benefit for Flanders Nature Center and Land Trust, to be hosted at Van Vleck Farm & Nature Sanctuary in Woodbury. If gastronomy was a competitive sport, this would be my Olympic team.

Established in 1963, situated on 2,200 acres, Flanders Nature Center & Land Trust is a non-profit organization that focuses on environmental education and the acquisition, conservation, and stewardship of open space The land was bequeathed

by Natalie Van Vleck (1901-1981), an artist, farmer, businesswoman, and environmentalist.

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by Hilary Adorno

Winter Caplanson Photos

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moving to Morris six years ago, I drove by a picturesque property with a simple signpost displaying an image of a white fedora and the words “Winvian: The Restaurant & Spa, Open for Reservations.” My curiosity intensified after learning that Winvian is considered one of Connecticut’s premier destination resorts, and I wondered what lay beyond the tree-lined drive, stone walls, and white gate. Now that I’ve been, I’m certain I’ve visited the land Dorothy Gale sings about in The Wizard of Oz. While there isn’t a yellow brick road, there are fields of flowers, whimsical accommodations, and a wizard, backed by a team who can make your wishes come true.

It was 1775 when respected local physician Dr. Seth Bird and his wife Hannah built an au courant Georgian-style home in Morris. Over the course of the next 170 years, the Bird family home would shelter many. In 1948, it was purchased by Merrill Lynch Founding Partner Winthrop Hiram Smith (Win) and his fashion model bride Vivian. They dubbed their new retreat “Winvian,” a majestic portmanteau which has remained in place for nearly 70 years. The Smiths installed requisite farm animals, and their only child, Winthrop H. Smith, Jr. (also Win) enjoyed being a boy with 113 acres to investigate.

After the passing of Win, Sr. and Vivian’s retirement to Florida, the property passed hands to the next generation. Win, Jr., his wife Maggie, and their children enjoyed time at Winvian, but as schedules grew busier and time between visits grew in length, the Smiths began to speculate about Winvian’s future. Selling wasn’t an option, (They rezoned to prevent development.) and they grew eager to put the property to better use.

Maggie and her daughter Heather applied their working knowledge of historical renovation in their approach to transforming Winvian. For four years, alongside celebrated architect David E. Sellers, they collaborated in the reconstruction of a Civil War-era lodging house in Warren, VT into The Pitcher Inn – a luxury hotel and spa complemented by fine dining restaurant 275 Main.

The Smiths found their niche; they unexpectedly became high-end hoteliers.

As such, Heather and Maggie selected 15 architects to design and construct 18 bespoke, themed cottages (between 780 and 1,300 sq. ft.) on Winvian’s perimeter along with modifications to the Seth Bird House: installing a worldclass kitchen, intimate dining rooms, and a lounge area for fireside repose and billiards. The top floor of the Seth Bird house became the Hadley Suite: 960 sq. ft. outfitted with heated floors, a steam shower, and a hidden flat screen TV. In late 2006, The Smiths opened the doors to their whimsical, lavish retreat.

LODGING Every cottage at Winvian is carefully-situated to ensure complete privacy. Their varied motifs allow guests to design their own getaway. Each one is stocked with fineries: every beverage you can imagine, bedside cookies, slippers, robes, a stocked woodpile, reading materials, and bicycles. Artist is an adorable stick-architecture bungalow with stained-glass windows filled with color, contemporary furnishings, and an easel to create your own work of art. In Beaver Lodge, tree trunks spring from the floor in every corner and the bed sits below a stunning beaver den canopy. It boasts a wraparound, two-sided, river rock fireplace and its massive bathroom is finished floor to ceiling with warm pebbles, a rain shower, and a stone-faced soaking tub. Camping offers a tented king size bed surrounded by trompe l’oeil murals of skies and forests, and features a two-stone façade fireplace and a Jacuzzi with a jaw-dropping view.

Inspired by Mark Twain’s A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court, Connecticut Yankee acculturates Spanish and New England colonial design. The bedroom is a king’s chamber with rich wood ceilings, opulent fabrics, and arched windows; guests pass under a Stonehenge-inspired megalith to soak in the oversized hot tub. Helicopter houses an entire restored

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1968 Sikorsky Sea King Pelican. Step into the fuselage to enjoy a cocktail or watch a movie; sit in the cockpit to gauge your next move. The two-story walls of Library are lined with stocked bookshelves complete with ladders. Select a book on a stroll around the mezzanine and relax on the large leather sofa in front of a roaring fire. Stay in a lighthouse without being stranded at sea in Maritime – its unique bathroom has a barrel-roofed ceiling and a steam shower; the bed sits in the middle of the round, teak-lined, two-story tower. (No navigational experience required.)

FOUNDATION Even with off-the-chart accommodations, the highlights of a stay at Winvian are served on a plate. Winvian is an international culinary destination and the only resort in the Northeast to earn Five AAA Diamonds – a title retained since opening. The resort has been named by Travel + Leisure as one of The 100 Best Hotels in the World and holds a place on the Conde Nast Gold List, as well as being a member of the prestigious Relais & Château.

As for their wizard, Maggie and Heather learned of Chef Chris Eddy – an up-and-comer out of Las Vegas looking to return to the East Coast. Heather shared that “his passion and tremendous talent was immediately evident. There was something special about him which my mom saw right away.”

Chris matched the Smiths’ sentiment. “Winvian was really unique and I got very excited, very quickly.”

Chris’ worldly childhood comprised constant travel and relocation due to his father John’s career as a U.S. foreign service officer. (He and his siblings were each born in different countries.) Chris’ mother is from Barcelona and his father (of English descent) grew up in Vermont – where Chris considers home. While attending St. Louis University, earning a degree in psychology, Chris waited tables, folded pizza boxes, and carried wine crates for several local dining establishments. A chef by the name of Steve Komorek inspired Chris to consider a career in the kitchen. “Steve came to work he elated everyday. His enthusiasm was infectious and inspirational.”

By the time he graduated, Chris had a new career path and had earned enough to pay his way through The French Culinary Institute. John Eddy recalled his son’s tenacity in his book Funny in Parts: The Diary of a Foreign Service Officer. “Chris walked cold turkey into Daniel in Manhattan and somehow found himself talking within minutes to the great chef. Daniel Boulud said he liked [Chris’] attitude and told him to report with his knives the 26

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next morning. Before too long, Daniel sent him as a sous chef to open a restaurant called Café Boulud in Palm Beach, Florida.”

Shortly thereafter, Chris met and married Kate (from Houston, TX) and they had three daughters. Chris was then offered the esteemed position of sous chef for Alain Ducasse at Mandalay Bay’s Mix Lounge in Las Vegas. Because their girls were young, Chris and Kate agreed to make the move to Sin City, but established at the onset that it would only be for a year. Serendipitously, Maggie Smith called, out of the blue, at the end of that year.

Now at Winvian, Chef Chris, Chef de Cuisine Patrick Espinoza, Executive Sous Chef Jason Gonsalves, and Pastry Chef Selena Gearinger consistently turn out delectable and imaginative dishes with ingredients cultivated mainly on-site. Chris hand-selects every seed, leaf, and petal on the three acres of organic gardens nurtured by Gardeners David Taccuri and Domingo Choc. He sells surplus produce at Morris Marketplace; because the prices are subsidized by the resort, Winvian offers a unique variety of organic produce at reasonable prices. At the urging of Pastry Chef Selena, Winvian also takes their food truck, giving market-goers the opportunity to enjoy Winvian’s offerings in a more casual environment.

Chris thoughtfully chooses and works with the best purveyors and cooperatives throughout New England, Pennsylvania, and New York including Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro Bend, VT, Maplebrook Farm in Bennington, VT, Whistling Willows Farm in Newport, NY, and Connecticut’s Beltane Farm in Lebanon, Cato Corner Farm Colchester, and Riverbank Farm in Roxbury.

DINING

In November, I was graciously invited to dinner service with friends. We were individually greeted by name in the driveway and seated fireside to enjoy an aperitif before being escorted to the opulent second-floor dining room. By dancing firelight, we started with an amuse-bouche – a seafood duo of Peruvian oyster ceviche made with Noank oysters and a lobster soup shooter with amontillado and almond cream. Seared foie gras with quince, cider, geranium, and rose followed.

The sear provied a satisfying snap to the

Chris’ simple mantra – “to surprise is to delight” – is exhibited on every plate.

The fedora on Winvian’s sign? Heather told me Win, Sr. would often wear one.

“It’s a symbol that you are home wherever you hang your hat.”

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buttery, velvet meat brilliantly finished with notes of acidic sweetness. Next, we enjoyed hand-rolled spinach cavatelli – a vibrant green, fresh, and unbelievable.

If you don’t pay attention, it’s easy to miss the front-of-house team’s stealth precision. After each course, the silver was replaced, crumbs were cleared, and glasses were filled.

The staff is seemingly clairvoyant; its members will think of it before you have the chance to ask. As each visuallystunning creation arrived, we remained completely enthralled without becoming overwhelmed. Our subsequent courses included mahi-mahi with beluga lentil ragout and celery root purée, and veal loin with roasted sunchoke, potato, and braised onion. The grand finale was a never-ending medley of fresh desserts, including milk chocolate namelaka with orange sherbet and caramel sauce, bite-sized creampuffs, miniature French macarons, and a refreshing sunchoke ice cream with a garnish of pomegranate arils.

Chris’ simple mantra – “to surprise is to delight” – is exhibited on every plate. “We’re entertainers and people come to see the show. They pay good money for front row seats and they don’t want to be let down.” Working diligently to that end, Chef Chris cordially invites his guests to be “introduced to something new,” and hopes that they leave having relished their culinary adventure.

Dinner is served Wednesday to Sunday, lunch on weekends only. Reservations are required.

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ACTIVITIES On Winvian’s grounds, you can take a bike ride; get a relaxing spa treatment; practice yoga; play bocce, badminton, or, volleyball; go for a swim in the new 40’ pool; or participate in a private cooking class with Chef Eddy (that includes harvesting ingredients from the property’s gardens). Winvian can arrange for guided hiking, fishing, and historic house tours.

Depending on the season, get whisked away to snowor water-ski, canoe, or kayak; go for a horse-back ride; and golf at an 18-hole championship course. Try your hand at paddleboarding; soar in a hot-air balloon; enjoy river tubing and pottery painting; shoot sporting clays; or, attend a concert.

The fedora on Winvian’s sign? Heather told me Win, Sr. would often wear one. “It’s a symbol that you are home wherever you hang your hat.” Winvian can be your home for a few nights, and it will be an experience unlike any other – I promise you that.

I’ve developed have a deep admiration and respect for what the Smiths have created while maintaining respect for Dr. Bird’s home and honoring Win, Sr. and Vivian’s legacy. There’s no place like this home.

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ARETHUSA:

Benvenuti in Paradiso

by Hilary Adorno / Winter Caplanson Photos

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A series of remarkable transformations have occurred in Litchfield over the lasT decade; the ones I’m celebrating all contain the name Arethusa.

South Plains Rd. in Litchfield hosts 350 acres of the most beautiful farmland I’ve ever seen. This expansive property is decorated with 15 Architectural Digestworthy barns, providing first-class accommodations to the prettiest, genetically superior, most pampered herd of Jersey, Holstein, and Brown Swiss cows on the planet.

To encapsulate the whole story, we must journey back to 1868, when Charles Borden Webster and his wife Lucinda selected a parcel on which to establish their homestead. The Websters christened their farm "Arethusa," named for the rare and indigenous orchid growing on the grounds. The family produced milk, butter, ham, eggs, chickens, and two sons: A. Benjamin and Wilbur. By the turn of the 20th century, Wilbur took over and focused on breeding Guernsey cows. By the 1930s, Arethusa became one of the first dairies to offer door-to-door milk delivery; Wilbur’s son Arthur oversaw operations.

All told, the Websters enjoyed a successful century-long, family-operated business. However, the changing economy, due in part to corporate dairying, caused Arethusa to cease operation in 1978, and the Websters sold the property in 1981. The farm was repurposed and tenanted by horses; it appeared as though the era of Arethusa was history.

In 1988, Waterbury’s son Tony Yurgaitis (also vice president of Manolo Blahnik), and San Antonian George Malkemus decided to make Litchfield their second home. A peaceful respite from their residence in The City That Never Sleeps, they purchased an early 20th century farmhouse, complete with a panoramic view of the pastoral Webster Farm. Fast forward to 1999, and their cherished view went up for sale. As chatter grew about developers' sub-dividing plans, George and Tony made a big decision: they literally bought the farm.

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When these two fashion executives became farmers overnight, curiosity swirled from Seventh Avenue to the Litchfield Green. Other than knowing they would use the property to produce (something), Tony and George were uncertain about exactly what. Considerations were many, but nothing grew roots, so to speak. Not long after, the gentlemen put five cows on their new farm, and a passion was ignited. What developed over the next 17 years is nothing short of astonishing. Considering neither Tony nor George had any previous livestock experience adds another level of incredulity. Within five short years, Messrs. Yurgaitis and Malkemus catapulted their herd’s bloodlines into the stratosphere; some of their girls now fetch more than six figures.

Tony's and George’s five-cow foundation has morphed into a herd of 350. When deliberating over what to call their bovine dynasty, they decided to pay homage to the property’s past by retaining its original moniker – Arethusa. One by one, they meticulously retrofitted the original structures to create a state-of-the art dairy operation. As needed, Tony and George continue to build new barns and modify existing housing to accommodate staff throughout the property.

As the owners' on-hand milk supply grew, they considered processing and distribution channels.

Originally, Arethusa’s milk was sold in the commodity market, but the low return proved to be a losing proposition. George and Tony did what they do best: pivoted to create a better business plan. Ultimately, they decided take their milk on a five-mile journey from the Farm to their own production facility. Arethusa distributes locally (Whole Foods, LaBonnes, and New Morning Market to name a few), and have aligned with a partner to transport products as far as New York City (such as Murray’s Cheese Shop and Dean & Deluca).

Guided by Tony, the first stop on my tour was the milking barn, where I met and touched the “Best Living Cow:” Huronia Centurion Veronica – happily retired at 17 years old. Boasting a Body Conditioning Scoring (BCS) of EX97, Veronica is a three-time Supreme Grand Champion. (BCS is a visual and tactile evaluation of a cow's conformation. At EX [Excellent] 97, Veronica represents the highest achievable BCS score.) The tender way Tony and Milking Barn Herdsman Tyler Patenaude spoke about her majesty nearly choked me up.

She is the grande dame of Arethusa and the mother of several history-making daughters (EX95).

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To encapsulate the whole story, we must journey back to 1868, when Charles Borden Webster and his wife Lucinda selected a parcel on which to establish their homestead.

The Websters christened their farm "Arethusa," named for the rare and indigenous orchid growing on the grounds.

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As we meandered through the property, a stunning barn revealed itself around every bend – each more impressive than the last. They led us to the Arethusa hen house, which accommodates more than 100 pretty girls who strut about and fly to perches fashioned to look like trees and fences. It is bigger than my house, and quite frankly, more charmingly-arranged. The three of us paused to take in the unbearable cuteness in the calf barn; all of the babies are kept there, warmed by lamps and blankets, and served gently-heated water.

We drove to the back of the property, where we met Joe Knapp, official Maître d' of the Heifer Hotel. Joe's in charge for this group of two-year-olds. (Considered teenagers in cow years, a heifer is a female cow that has not borne a calf). A never-ending line of 800-lb. hay bales were set in perfect formation down the center isle of the Hotel. Joe told me it would take 11 days for them all to be consumed.

Arethusa Dairy Stores

Upon my visit to the dairy store, I noticed an Outstanding Quality Milk Award for Arethusa's rolling herd average somatic cell count, a method used by the dairy industry for calculating bacteria in milk. A cow’s health, diet, and cleanliness are all factors. In the United States, the somatic cell count in milk made for human consumption cannot be more than 750,000 per ml. Arethusa boasts a tidy cell count of 60,000 per ml. – 1,250% better than it has to be. I sense a trend.

Thanks to their exceptional care and personally-crafted diets, an Arethusa cow produces an average of 87 lbs. of milk a day (124% more than the average cow). Both Arethusa Diary Stores carry the Farm's entire line of made-from-scratch products:

Ice cream

Vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, coffee, mint chocolate chip, sweet cream chocolate chip, butter pecan, almond coconut, and maple walnut are menu staples. Be on the lookout for pop-up flavors like pumpkin, peppermint, and pistachio, made with nuts which Executive Chef Dan Magill roasts and grinds himself. Arethusa makes their own ice cream from start to finish, never using purchased bases.

Milk

Whole, skim, 1%, 2%, and chocolate are available all year round. Eggnog and coffee milk - in traditional glass bottles - make their appearance seasonally. ctfoodandfarm.com

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One can’t help but notice that the Arethusa properties, equipment, and animals are maintained with the utmost care and consideration. If you have the opportunity to visit any of the Arethusa locations, you might feel obliged to remove your shoes at the door.

(The barns are no exception.)

Yogurt

Plain (in whole & 1%), vanilla, and maple. (My fridge always has Arethusa Maple Yogurt in it.)

Butter

Salted and cultured – it's how butter should taste. It took two years to perfect this recipe!

Cheese

Arethusa makes an astonishing 10 varieties of cheese developed through a painstaking trial-and-error process.

Arethusa Dairy’s General Manager, Chris Casiello, is fullyimmersed in the voluminous facets of cheese making: recipe development, brushing, turning, curing, and where appropriate, waxing. Recently, Arethusa built a large aging facility which holds in excess of 2,000 truckles (wheels).

The cheese is monitored by a computerized system imported from France, which controls temperature and humidity for each cheese’s special needs. The cheese cures on hand-selected Canadian fir boards, essential for infusing or extracting moisture, as needed. Choose between Camembert, Rotondo, Tapping Reeve, Crybaby, Bella Bantam, Europa, Farmer’s Cheese, Karlie’s Gratitude, Arethusa Blue, and new to the herd: Arethusa Diva (inspired by Taleggio).

Arethusa al tavolo

In June 2013, Tony and George pulled in a ringer – CIA alumnus and 2016 James Beard Award semi-finalist Executive Chef Dan Magill – to open Arethusa al tavolo, an exceptional eatery which showcases all of the Farm's offerings. Within two years, it was voted among Open Table's Best 100 Restaurants in the Country. Arethusa al tavolo's ambiance is warm, luxurious, and unpretentious; the staff is knowledgeable and attentive. I found the wine selection to be comprehensive without being overwhelming. The menu comprises creative and concise recipes featuring lamb, seafood, duck, and the Farm's dairy products, bookended with a whimsical amuse-bouche in a miniature cone and a shot of Arethusa milk with warm cookies.

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Arethusa a mano

Seeing a hole, George and Tony decided to fill it; coffee shop and bakery Arethusa a mano was born and opened in late April 2016. The bakery and café feature an open floor plan and, in keeping with Arethusa's theme, offer a clean and traditionally-appointed space. Breakfast selections include bagels, croissants, muffins, and pastries - paninis, soups, and salads for lunch, all made by hand. Pair one of their cookies, bars, and truffles with a glass of Arethusa Milk, or a steaming cup of Stumptown Coffee Roasters, sourced from artisans worldwide and supplied exclusively to Arethusa a mano.

Among the traditional drip and espresso-based drinks, you can enjoy a cold brew draft. That's right – draft coffee.

One can’t help but notice that the Arethusa properties, equipment, and animals are maintained with the utmost care and consideration. If you have the opportunity to visit any of the Arethusa locations, you might feel obliged to remove your shoes at the door. (The barns are no exception.) With that said, the spotlessness should not be confused with pomposity; rather, it demonstrates how much George and Tony care about details. Along with their growing staff of around 100, Tony and George have lovingly transformed their expansive Litchfield farm and revived Bantam Center into a new millennial Xanadu.

Arethusa Farm 566 South Plains Rd., Litchfield 860.361.6600 Visiting hours, Saturdays only 12:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m.

Arethusa Farm Dairy: 828 Bantam Rd., Bantam, 860.361.6600 1020 Chapel St., New Haven 203.390.5114

Arethusa al tavolo 828 Bantam Rd., Bantam, 860.567.0043 Arethusa a mano 833 Bantam Rd., Bantam, 860.567.5722

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ZERO PROPHET COFFEE: NOT YOUR AVERAGE JOE

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AFTER REPEATEDLY HEARING THE NAME NICK BENSON,

it was time to investigate this Connecticut micro-coffee roaster.

In late January, photographer and coffee enthusiast Jake Snyder and I went to see what the fuss was about. Driving down a serpentine country road in Washington, we landed in the driveway of a quintessential New England shake-sided house with a white barn in front. This was the home of Nick Benson, his family, and Zero Prophet Coffee.

Nick greeted us in the driveway and without wasting a minute, we set off to work. He parted the doors to the barn, revealing an immaculate apple-red and stainless steel Diedrich coffee roaster, roughly 6’ tall and 5’ wide, weighing almost 900 pounds.

Attempting to span the chasm between a coffee devotee ( Jake) and an agnostic (me), Nick carefully considered which of his green bean (unroasted) varietals would please us both, settling on nine lbs. grown at Paraiso Farms in the Jinotega region of Nicaragua. Buttons were pushed, gauges were checked, beans went into the hopper, and the whir of the machine filled the room. Simultaneously, Nick scribbled in a book where he maintains the details of each roast, helping him calibrate future perfect batches. We watched the beans through the viewing window of the Diedrich like a pair of anticipatory Charlie Buckets, colors slowly transitioning from pale green to shades of darkening chocolate brown.

Coffee roasting is a series of chemical reactions with visual and audible cues to signify different stages of the roast.

Temperature, timing, and air circulation are all vigilantly monitored to ensure success, as one missed signal or inaccurate setting can spell disaster or worse – bitter coffee!

In coffee roasting, the term “first crack” literally refers the first crack of the bean. The application of heat causes moisture in the bean to evaporate, creating a sound like popping corn.

If Nick had stopped the roast at this point, we would have had a light roast comparable to New England or Cinnamon.

Next, we listened for the “second crack,” a more subtle sound likened to splintering or sizzling, created by oil making its way to the surface of the beans. Stopping at this point would result in a Vienna or Full City roast. Throughout the process, Nick jubilantly declared each stage, until our roast was complete.

The beans were quickly released from the drum and poured into the cooling tray, where a steel paddle spun them to room temperature.

With our roasted beans ready for their evolution to brewed alchemy, we set off for the house. As we walked, Nick explained that it was once a gardener’s quarters and stable, while the roastery was a pole barn. Both structures were ancillary to the main house on the property, all of which have been in his wife Lili’s family for nearly 80 years.

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Nick met his sweetheart Lili (Natalie) Dyer when she responded to a post he placed in a Boston bookstore seeking a person conversant in Italian. Apparently, the conversation went very well, and they married in 2000. Shortly thereafter, Nick and Lili relocated to Lili’s family homestead in Washington. Nick began work as an English teacher at The Gunnery, a local co-ed boarding school, and Lili joined him there in 2014, teaching English (as a second language) and French.

My research determined the Benson-Dyer union represents an amalgamation of language, culture, and education. Within this family’s immediate tree branches, at least one member can speak, read, and write one or more of the following languages: English, French, Italian, Slovenian, Spanish, Serbo-Croatian, and Russian.

Nick is the son of the internationally-respected Raymond E. Benson, a US Foreign Service Officer, who served the US from 1957 to 1987 in many capacities and countries, including Croatia, Germany, Turkey, Serbia, and Russia. While in service, Raymond met and married Brooklyn-born Shirley Sherman, who was a Russian Embassy translator. Shirley’s Russian was so fluent, she was entrusted to translate Sergei Khrushchev’s memoir Nikita Khrushchev and the Creation of a Superpower.

With that said, Raymond and Shirley’s most important works were produced in the late mid-century and they are named Carolyn, Michael, and Nicholas. The Benson children spent their childhood exploring the world, spending large chunks of time housed in the Moscow Embassy, during which time Alfredo (the in-house Italian cook) made a lasting impression on Nick.

“Alfredo roasted his own coffee (with beans he brought back from trips home to Italy) on the stovetop in what was referred to as ‘Uncle Sam's’. I'm sure that inhaling that aroma at the age of nine – and recognizing Alfredo's fine sense of style and red Alfa Romeo - is one of my formative coffee experiences.”

Alfredo’s coffee was a renowned and frequent topic of conversation among Embassy staffers and guests.

As Nick grew, so did his coffee obsession. Having the opportunity to enjoy coffee around the globe, he developed a sophisticated palate. It became increasingly difficult to find the quality of coffee he craved, since genuine artisan coffee was rare stateside, even more so in rural Connecticut. Nick decided to delve into crafting his own roast. He started simply, using a popcorn machine, which works well twofold: the ability to see the beans roast and suitable air circulation. He stepped up to a one-lb. electric roaster, which eventually burnt out from overuse (because now friends were putting in requests for coffee). In 2007, Nick went legitimate and formed Zero Prophet Coffee, purchased a five-lb. roaster, which he had for 130

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several years. In late 2016, after fortification to the pole barn floor, the 11-lb. capacity Diedrich was installed.

We entered the family home, met Nick and Lili’s children, Hezzy (nine) and Katharine (13), and the family pets. We sat at the cozy kitchen table as Nick set out to win our collective coffee hearts. It certainly wasn’t my first cup of coffee, but this was a different experience and I was pleasantly surprised with the coffee's complexity; I found it to be intricate and fullbodied, and could taste individualized notes of chocolate, citrus, and nut. I drank the whole cup – not even to be polite (because I am not that polite).

As a parting gift, Nick sent both Jake and I home with bags of roasted coffee beans. My bags were re-gifted to my coffee-worshiping husband, who mail orders coffee from an out-of-state roaster to whom he is fiercely loyal. I knew there would be a brutally honest review, and his agreement to deviate from his “brand” was a considerable concession.

Zero Prophet’s Java Taman Dadar (grown in Eastern Java) and Congo Kivu (grown in northwestern Democratic Republic of Congo) were so well-received, the bags were completely consumed in little time. This was the exactly the affirmation I was after, as my husband would never drink coffee he didn’t love, even for me.

Nick is steadfast about sourcing beans from purveyors who are sensitive to causes and programs such as organic farming, Fair Trade, Rainforest Alliance, Bird-Friendly and Direct Trade.

Without these organizations in place, coffee farmers and growing environments are not protected. For example, Fair Trade USA (FTUSA) has labor policies forbidding child and forced labor, as well as stringent regulations for employee safety, ensuring access to proper medical attention and guidelines for equipment maintenance. With respect to environmental considerations, FTUSA restricts pesticide use, and requires sustainable farming practices to protect biodiversity, maintain soil productivity, conserve water, and properly manage waste. Finally, a Fair Trade- or Rain Forest Alliance-certified grower will receive approximately 68% more return on their product through these programs versus traditional channels. With these initiatives in place, farmers receive a fair price, the consumer is guaranteed knowledge of the products’ origins, and a portion of the proceeds are earmarked for communit y development and environmental stewardship.

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From New Orleans to New Milford:

Getting to Know Chef Joel Viehland

By Hilary Adorno Photos by Winter Caplanson

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Did you know we have a celebrity chef in our midst? Chef Joel Viehland has planted roots in Northwest Connecticut and by early 2017, will have two establishments for his patrons to enjoy. Here is a little about his history, experience, and what he is doing to promote local food and farms: Joel Viehland grew up in Milwaukee, the youngest of three children born to hardworking parents of modest means. By their example, Joel learned the valueof discipline, respect, and determination Joel’s mother loved to bake and cook for her family, and five nights a week, she did just that. Sunday was deemed “everyone fend for themselves” night. As far back as Joel can remember, he spent Sunday nights figuring out how to make a grilled cheese sandwich better.

With no aspirations to work in the restaurant industry, Joel took the job he could get: bus boy at a local restaurant where his sister worked. After spilling several glasses of ice water on an elderly woman, Joel was sent to the back of the house where he was put in front of the dishwasher.

Shortly thereafter, he started in the dish room at Café Knickerbocker; within six months, he was running the pantry station under the supervision of Chef Robert Wagner. Joel’s quick uptake in the kitchen was apparent, but a formal culinary education was financially out of reach. Knowing this, Chef Wagner urged Joel to enter a recipe contest – the winner to receive a partial scholarship to Johnson & Wales University College of Culinary Arts. With the help of Chef Wagner, Joel entered grilled scallops with infused chili oil and Japanese eggplant. Joel’s dish won for the State of Wisconsin and shortly thereafter, he was off to Providence, Rhode Island.

In 1997, with his culinary education complete, Joel moved to the Big Apple. He worked at Gramercy Tavern, helmed by Tom Colicchio (five-time James Beard Award recipient and judge on Bravo’s “Top Chef”), then for Food & Wine Magazine’s “Best New Chef” Katy Sparks.

Before there was an official farm-to-table movement, Katy was aligning with local farmers and artisans in order to produce seasonal dishes at her renowned NYC

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restaurant Quilty’s. Joel cites Katy as influential in his career; “Katy is extremely intelligent and her techniques are astute and well-thought. She taught me how to train my palate to gain a better understanding of the science behind seasoning,” he said. All told, Joel spent three -and-a-half years in the New York culinary scene, with a sequence of very impressive mentors.

In 2001, Joel ventured south to New Orleans where he worked for Susan Spicer at Bayona, Donald Link at Herbsaint, Scott Boswell at Stella!, and Emeril Lagasse at Emeril’s. Joel fondly recalls his New Orleans experience, pointing to two important figures: Donald Link, who taught Joel how to make traditional Cajun food elegant by isolating the bold flavors in order to maximize their potential; and, Emeril Lagasse for being an amazingly competent communicator. “Emeril’s awareness was uncanny. He was able to quickly assess situations and explain exactly what he needed in an organized manner. He also was an excellent businessman and I learned a lot about the legal and financial side of the restaurant business,” said Joel. “Emeril was a gentleman who cared deeply about his staff. Never was this made clearer than in 2005 when Hurricane Katrina devastated most of New Orleans.

Emeril donated money, found lodging for his staff, and redistributed all employees to his other restaurants.”

As far back as Joel can remember, he spent Sunday nights figuring out how to make a grilled cheese sandwich better.

Once the Emeril’s flagship location was back on the grid, Joel was dispatched to be tasting chef, responsible for writing, creating, ordering, and cooking the menu fully-dedicated to the VIPs who frequent the restaurant.

The last eight years Joel spent in New Orleans was at Stella!, an innovative restaurant using relatively unique tools like Cryovacs and Pacojets – it was molecular gastronomy in its infancy and Joel was at the forefront.

Joel explained to me that trends in restaurants tend to follow art, fashion, and music. When he was deciding his next move, he considered all three. It was 2007, and El Bulli and Mugaritz, both in Spain, were considered the best restaurants in the world. However, Joel sensed the trends were favoring another direction: Nordic.

In order to confirm this hunch, Joel sent his sister-inlaw (who was attending college in Copenhagen) on a reconnaissance mission to check out Noma, as he believed it on track to be the next big thing. With her assurances, Joel applied for a position and was quickly brought on as an intern. Within two months, he was working as a stagier, plating and cooking at what would ctfoodandfarm.com

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The last eight years Joel spent in New Orleans was at Stella!, an innovative restaurant using relatively unique tools like Cryovacs and Pacojets – it was molecular gastronomy in its infancy and Joel was at the forefront.

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Joel explained to me that trends in restaurants tend to follow art, fashion, and music. When he was deciding his next move, he considered all three.

become “the Most Influential Restaurant in the World” in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014 by Restaurant Magazine.

In a 2015 documentary entitled Noma, My Perfect Storm, Executive Chef René Redzepi explained Noma’s simple core concept: “Time and place — every day, serve a meal that tells guests where they are in the world and what season it is.”

These days, reservations at Noma must be made at least four months in advance and sell out faster than a Rolling Stones concert. Once Joel’s work visa ran out, he was forced to return to the States with the understanding he would return to Noma once he could secure an extension. Shortly thereafter, a financial crisis struck Denmark and a freeze was placed on work visas.

As a result, Joel was not able to go back.

Serendipitously, around this time, came an unexpected call. Katy Sparks had been brought in as the consulting chef for a new restaurant in rural Washington, Connecticut with “Nordic sensibilities:” Community Table. It was in search of an executive chef; Katy recommended Joel.

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Within five years, Joel put Community Table on the culinary map, receiving a total of three James Beard Award nominations for Best Chef: Northeast and Best New Restaurant.

Itching to ignite the flame of his own vision, Joel left Community Table in 2015; in March 2016, Joel opened The Pine Leaf Café in a charming white cottage on the banks of the Aspetuck River in New Milford.

The Pine Leaf Café offers made-to-order seasonalbreakfast and lunch fare: soups, salads, sandwiches, and paninis. In keeping with his ethos, Joel works to incorporate organic and locally-sourced ingredients. For example, he uses Zero Prophet Coffee, a micro-roaster out of Washington, to supply roasted-fresh-to-order coffee beans. Joel is constantly hunting for native resources that provide humanely-raised, antibiotic-free proteins and non-GMO foods. The menu is simple, yet polished – all delicious and fresh. Open from April to December, you may enjoy indoor or outdoor seating, the latter offering a rippling river. (Side note: get the Cubano.)

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The Pine Leaf Café is located at 354 Litchfield Rd., New Milford; it is open Monday through Saturday, 8:00 a.m.

– 4:00 p.m. and Sundays, 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays).

Joel’s next endeavor is currently unnamed, but under construction in one of the oldest buildings in Kent. It will be a 70-seat restaurant featuring al fresco dining, craft beer, wood-fired pizza, and shared plates; it’s scheduled to open in spring 2017. *Pine Leaf was a historically significant female Native American chief. She was captured and adopted by the Apsáalooke (Crow) Nation as a child. She would go on to become one of their fiercest warriors. My favorite excerpt about her explains how she was named, written by one of her suitors, James Beckwourth. Pine Leaf refused his proposals of marriage multiple times, conceding she would marry him only “when the pine leaves turn yellow.”

Beckwourth eventually realized that pine leaves do not turn yellow.

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By Hilary Adorno

Winter Caplanson Photos

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arriers and blacksmiths are like rectangles and squares: while a farrier is considered a blacksmith, a blacksmith is not necessarily a farrier. Blacksmiths forge metal (iron, steel), fabricate objects like gates, railings, decorative objects, and tools by forging metal (i.e. iron and steel). Farriers specialize in equine foot care, using blacksmith techniques to fabricate custom horseshoes.

While methods and materials have progressed, little else has changed about this 1,500-year-old practice.

It takes a tenacious, fearless person to become – and more importantly – stay a farrier. The reading, writing, and anatomy portion of a farrier’s education ranges from six to 24 weeks, depending on the program and chosen school; apprenticing requires 8,000 hours of hands-on experience with a practicing mentor.

A farrier is responsible for maintaining foot and leg health of (what can be) costly animals, helping them to avoid injury. Finally, consider an unpredictable clientele. Farriers have to approach each animal with sixth-sense tactical intelligence, as each one varies drastically in weight, height, and mental stability.

Apprenticeship begins with pulling shoes, graduating to finishing the hoof (filing with a rasp), and finally, nailing shoes and working with the traditionally propane-fired forge.

Another factor? Insurance. As an independent contractor, typically working on property other than their own, farriers must carry liability insurance to protect him or herself, others, the animals being shoed, and the property itself. The amount of insurance ranges from $100,000 to $1,000,000, depending on the client’s or property owner’s requirements. Specialty insurance companies can help gauge what rates and limits are reasonable.

I spent an afternoon with a good friend, Bob Ellis of Morris, who has been as a working farrier for almost Bob Ellis at home on his family farm in Morris. ctfoodandfarm.com

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30 years. Bob’s history with horses began in 1980 when his father – Bob, Sr. – purchased a pair of Belgians: draft horses named after their country of origin. As friends, family, and word-of-mouth requests came in for horse and carriage rides, Bob’s father realized that he could turn his hobby into a return on his investment. He began a livery service for special occasions and weddings offering drawn carriages, sleds, and wagons. Bob and his father also participated in pulling competitions and six-horse hitch exhibitions in local fairs; Bob describes it as a fun way for father and son to spend time together and display the magnificent fruits of their labor. An epiphany came at the age of 18 when Bob handed over his entire weekend’s earnings to their farrier on a Monday morning.

The moment he decided he could do it himself, Bob was quickly on his way to becoming a farrier.

To start, Bob attended the Eastern School of Farriery in Martinsville, VA for nine weeks after which he began what became a nine-year

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apprenticeship for Kriz Brothers, mentored by International Horseshoeing Hall of Fame member Joe Kriz and his brother John. Bob also worked alongside Glen and Tim Kriz, eighth-generation Kriz farriers. Five years into his apprenticeship, Bob was tasked with handling some unique celebrities: The World Famous Budweiser Clydesdales. He traveled to Orlando, FL, St. Louis, MO, Merrimack, NH, San Antonio, TX, and San Diego, CA every six weeks for three to eight day stints, shoeing the various teams. For a total of 14 years, Bob was the go-to guy for maintaining the feet of these majestic one-ton creatures. With at least 10 horses per location shod every six weeks, Bob has handled almost 36,000 Clydesdale shoes.

Another remarkable experience during Bob’s career was working in tandem with Glenn Kriz on the 1993 history-making trek named Country’s Reminisce Hitch. From April to October of that year, a six-horse team of Belgian draft horses

Nippers are used to cut back the frog - the triangle-shaped underside of the hoof.

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traveled 3,600 miles from Kennebunkport, ME to San Diego, CA. As needed, Bob or Glenn would fly wherever needed to shoe the team.

The expedition was a success!

Doesn’t require heat; the shoe is molded to fit with a hammer (a rounding or pein hammer).

This method is traditionally used on pleasure and back-yard horses and can cost from $100 to $200 for each application.

Demands that the shoe be fired in a forge, making the metal pliable. It is manipulated with a hammer to fit the foot, as well. Clips can be fabricated, helping take stress off the nails and keeping the shoe in place. Hot shoeing also entails burning the hot shoe to the hoof, creating a perfect marriage between foot and shoe, reducing the risk of infection and/or unwanted material getting between the hoof and shoe. This type of shoeing is necessary for working and show horses and costs $200 to $400 per fitting.

Is simply cutting back the hoof with nippers, using a knife to cut away excess sole and dead tissue, (to allow healthy tissue to breathe) and finishing with a rasp to file down the rough edges. Trimming is performed before shoeing or can be done without shoeing for retired or non-working animals; it runs between $40 and $100 depending on the size of the animal and the extent of the work.

Horses should be trimmed and shod every five to six weeks in order to maintain healthy feet and soundness.

There are a few other considerations when determining how to treat your horse’s feet.

The three factors Bob considers are the animal’s conformation, its habitat, and its function. For example, if horses are kept in a muddy or wet area, they can become susceptible to an ailment called Thrush (or Seedy Toe). A dry turnout can A rasp files down the hoof, completing the trimming process.

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result in sand cracks. If a horse works on pavement, it should have carbide studs installed in their shoes to prevent skidding; studs and snowball pads prevent snow from balling up in their soles. Bob takes all of these factors into consideration in addition to consulting with the animal’s veterinarian in order to make the best decision for the animal’s foot welfare. He is an integral part of keeping the animals under his care healthy and sound.

Today, Bob has mostly local clients in order to stay closer to home and raise a family. He currently shoes all breeds, including Morgans, shown at the national level. He also drives to New York City every six weeks and maintains the feet of the horses, ponies, and donkeys at The Bronx Zoo. I have extremely fond 30-year old memories of Bob and I riding bareback on a pair his family Percherons through the snow-covered streets of Harwinton. Can you visualize anything better?

The thought of doing that now gives me psychosomatic leg pain, but I’m thankful to have had the experience and time spent with a dear friend.

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Bob displays the various unfitted shoes he uses during farrier demonstrations. ctfoodandfarm.com

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HILARY ADORNO WWW.HILARYADORNO.COM 860 478 3175 Lakeside, Connecticut hilary@hilaryadorno.com

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