INDIA
UNPACKING THE 2019 SUMMER OF CRICKET
MEET BAD BUNNY THE FUTURE OF POP
INSIDE ACCESS GQ STYLE AWARDS
O A R R A M M U K J RA
P U S K A E P S
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROHAN SHRESTHA
MAY 2019 `15 0
New Delhi: The Emporio. Mumbai: Taj Hotel Colaba - dior.com
126
THE INSIDER There’s no stopping Rajkummar Rao. By Nidhi Gupta
UNPACKING THE 2019 SUMMER OF CRICKET
INDIA
MAY 2019 `15 0
MEET BAD BUNNY THE FUTURE OF POP
INSIDE ACCESS GQ STYLE AWARDS
UP S K A SPE
R RAO U M MA RAJ K
POLO T-SHIRT, TROUSERS; BOTH BY BALLY. WATCH BY CASIO
PHOTO: ROHAN SHRESTHA
SHOT ON ONEPLUS
SUIT, JUMPER; BOTH BY BOGLIOLI. SNEAKERS BY ONITSUKA TIGER
MAY 2019
— 7
JAMIE DORNAN & BIRGIT KOS
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CONTENTS
24 Editor’s Letter 26 Contributors 30 GQ Access 185 Where to Buy 190 the last word 160
SWITCHING GEARS
ON THE Run
108
67 STYLE Here’s how to talk about, and wear, denim; Brands that are helping save the environment; A talk with Mufti Jeans founder Kamal Khushlani; How to DIY your jeans, courtesy three designers. Plus, Christian Louboutin talks about his latest Loubi runners; Kim Jones and Dior Men take over Tokyo; An eyewear edit you don’t want to miss; Rare Rabbit is the newest place to shop; Richard Mille’s latest watch will give you a sugar rush; Montblanc pulls another heritage piece out of its hat; Grooming products to help you keep cool this summer
120 DRIVE Volkswagen Motorsport India celebrates a decade with a track day; The BMW M5 is setting luxurious standards; The Toyota Camry Hybrid is back, and better than ever
NO TURNING Back 176
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MAY 2019
42
A QUIET Place 45 VIBE Sarathy Korwar is making Indo Jazz music mainstream; Movies, shows and games to consume this month; With an Oscar in hand, indie cinema producer Guneet Monga is here to stay; Ex-chief election commissioner SY Quraishi talks elections, and his latest book
PHOTO: JIGNESH JHAVERI
SNEAKERS BY ASICS
CONTENTS
112
BIG MOVES
Nick Wooster rocks the best of Indianwear. Photographed by Prabhat Shetty BANDHGALA, TROUSERS; BOTH BY KHANIJO. SHIRT BY RAJESH PRATAP SINGH
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MAY 2019
CONTENTS
ON THE Bullseye
Ian Botham wouldʼve killed it in T20 cricket
150
154
TOKYO RUSH 134 THE GOODLIFE Alex Sanchezʼs new restaurant in Mumbai is about what he wants to make; Where to stay and what to eat this month
168
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MAY 2019
141 GQ POWERPLAY Jasprit Bumrah is taking it one match at a time; T20 All Stars XI: Legends Edition; The 2019 ICC Cricket World Cup starts on the very last day of this month, so we’ve ranked all the teams
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GOOD TIMES With BAD BUNNY
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EDITOR'S LETTER
Paradigm shift
Ranveer Singh and Lilly Singh aka Superwoman shake up the dance floor at the 2019 GQ Style & Culture Awards
24 —
MAY 2019
@chekurriengq
PHOTO: MAX HERMANS/THOMPSON PHOTO IMAGERY (CHE)
A
s a child of the Nineties, some of my earliest cricket memories were of Kris Srikkanth opening the Indian innings with swashbuckling style and swagger, breaking the mould of how Indian batsmen approached the game. This was a conservative, defensive period, when the likes of Ravi Shastri and Sunil Gavaskar plodded away, accumulating runs by attrition, with the preservation of wickets the top priority. Srikkanth never accepted this paradigm. He played his shots with flashy imperiousness, an approach that was often termed reckless in those genteel times, but now appears prescient when viewed through the prism of today’s wham-bam T20 era. This month, as we plough deeper into the sweltering summer of peak cricket, our editors have compiled a list of legendary players of yore, whom we would have loved to see play T20 cricket. Of course gum-chewing, cigar-chomping Srikkanth tops the list. Another hyper-talented rule-breaker we have our eyes trained on is Rajkummar Rao. Ever since he broke onto the scene in Dibakar Banerjee’s edgy LSD in 2010, Rao has redefined creative boundaries in his field, wholly committing himself to his craft while experimenting with roles and formats. Today, he sits at the top of the Indian entertainment business, having ascended to this position on his own terms. That’s why Rao was the most appropriate individual to front this month’s issue, where we undertook a very special editorial innovation: executing the cover shoot on a OnePlus smartphone, marrying technology and art to create a striking visual showpiece. As a cutting-edge men’s media brand, we’ve always aimed to delight our readers by pushing the envelope, with the sharpness of our writing, the quality of photograpy and our striking visual presentation. We count this digital cover shoot as another feather in our cap; at GQ, we like to take big bets, with innovation hardwired into our DNA. Enjoy the issue!
CONTRIBUTORS
DESIRÉE FERNANDES
“A pair of jeans that belonged to my mother when she was around my age, it’s a high-waist boyfriend fit with zipper details at the ankle and a cool wash you don’t see much of these days.”
TAKAKI KUMADA WHO: Tokyo-based photographer who’s hooked on to fishing right now. WHAT: “No Turning Back”, page 176 CRAZIEST shoots: “I once did an underwater shoot. We were accompanied by three rescue people, so the model and I got scared at the thought that we might die!”
“I recently bought a Heath bag in San Francisco.”
YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF DENIM? ROHAN SHRESTHA WHO: Mumbai-based photographer, scuba diver and footballer. Instagram @rohanshrestha WHAT: “The Insider”, page 126 that one moment: “Shooting Rajkummar Rao on a smartphone, which Iʼd never done before!”
“A vintage Levi’s jacket I found at a thrift store in the East Village, New York.”
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MAY 2019
DHRUVA BALRAM WHO: London-based Indian-Canadian freelance journalist. You can usually find him reading, snacks in hand. Instagram @dhruvacurly WHAT: “Third Stream”, page 45 MUSIC OR LYRICS: “As moving and evocative as lyrics can be, my first love being jazz means that I’ll always lean towards the instruments and production in a song. It’s what catches my ear almost instantly.”
“A pair of washed jeans I picked up at a vintage store in Rome last Christmas.”
IMAGE: DEEP DEY (DHRUVA)
WHO: Fashion stylist, recently turned Delhiite, obsessed with cacti and painting. Instagram @dez_fdz WHAT: “Big Moves”, page 112 A NICK WOOSTER master class: “Play around with a cool pair of shorts. If styled right, they can even look dressy!”
ACCESS
YOUR E XCLUSIVE PA SS TO THE MOST HAPPENING PARTIES AND E VENTS Ranveer Singh & Lilly Singh break it down on the bar
Rajkummar Rao
Taapsee Pannu
GQ STYLE & CULTURE AWARDS 2019 WHERE: Taj Lands End, Mumbai
Kalki Koechlin
30 000 —
FEBRUARY 2019
With its inception last year, the GQ Style Awards identified, applauded and celebrated individuals who are forging their own paths as the country’s coolest trendsetters and style mavens. This year, the rechristened GQ Style & Culture Awards, in association with Hugo Boss Eyewear, and supported by Volvo, Teacher’s Music CD and NDTV, championed a new set of faces who’re the torchbearers of what’s hot and current in 2019. Over the course of the evening, Bollywood superstars, fashion icons, designers, influencers and the city’s swish set applauded heartfelt speeches by the winners and enjoyed live performances from Azadi Records’ Tienas, Seedhe Maut and Siri, as well as stand-up comedian Rudy Singh. The evening would have been incomplete without a kicker – this time in the form of a thoroughly entertaining, impromptu performance by Ranveer Singh and Lilly Singh aka Superwoman, spitting rhymes and showing off their best moves on top of the bar.
Reema Kagti & Zoya Akhtar
Nick Wooster
Jim Sarbh
&
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Anushka Sharma
STYLE CULTURE
Radhika Apte
AWARDS
I N
A S S O C I A T I O N
W I T H
Jacqueline Fernandez
FEBRUARY 2019
— 000
GQ ACCESS Che Kurrien, Nick Wooster & Alex Kuruvilla
Kunal Rawal & Sasha Rawal Bajaj
Aparshakti Khurana
Gaurav Khanijo, Kaam Bhaari & Sikandar Kher
Shilpa Gupta & Arjun Mathur
Ankur Tewari & Vijay Varma Ujjawal Dubey
Esha Gupta Prashant Datta
Arjun Khanna at the Hugo Boss Eyewear display
Dino Morea
Fatima Sana Shaikh
Ramona Arena
000 —
FEBRUARY 2019
Sapna Pabbi
GQ ACCESS Hip-hop stars Tienas, Siri and Seedhe Maut
Zoya Akhtar
Nikhil Arora
Amit Jain
Arjun Mehra & AD Singh
Rahul Mishra
Lilly Singh & Ranveer Singh show off their dance moves Rochelle Rao Sequeira
The Volvo XC60 display
Almona Bhatia with Maneka & Nitin Thadani
Elena Fernandes
Nasir Khan & Theron Carmine de Sousa
34 000 ——
2019 2019 MAY FEBRUARY
Mandira Bedi
Vartika Singh
Nora Fatehi
GQ ACCESS Rajkummar Rao & Esha Gupta
Kanika Goyal & Dhruv Kapoor
Anu Gautam, Monica Singh & Vineet Gautam
Varun Mitra
Nakuul Mehta The Teacherʼs Bar
Akshay Chowdhary
Rudy Singh Gautam Gohain
Jacqueline Fernandez
Nupur Sanon
The coveted GQ Style & Culture Awards trophy
Shivangi Lolayekar
Shibani Dandekar
36 000 ——
2019 2019 MAY FEBRUARY
Prithvi Handa
GQ ACCESS
Parmesh Shahani & Anjali Lama Mo Joshi
The main stage of the evening Anushka Sharma & Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Ramona Arena
Sanya Malhotra
Amyra Dastur
Patralekha
Vikram & Namita Thapar
Harinder Singh Pelia Amit Sadh
Aaliya Amrin
38 000 —
FEBRUARY 2019
Akshai Varde & Sameera Reddy
Tarun Mehrotra
Troy Costa & Keith Sequeira
GQ ACCESS
Anita Khatri & Karran Kharas
Rohit & Saloni Suri
The after-party in full swing
Nitinn & Aarty Miranni
The delectable dessert table
Saket Sethi & Kadambari Lakhani
Anushka Manchanda Errikos Andreou
Vikram Raizada
Arjun Mathur
PHOTO: MANISH MANSINH, KEDAR NENE & TEAM
40 000 ——
2019 2019 MAY FEBRUARY
Kritika Sriram
Sunila Duggal
A QUIET PLACE
T
here are some books I turn to regularly, like the memories of past lovers, drawing comfort in the simple fact that they exist in some immutable universe. My relationship with the writers and their work evolves as I age, sometimes shocking me with nuances I was too young to recognise, at other times reminding me that an ever-changing view of the world is what makes ageing such an interesting process. What I choose to read depends upon a number of things – where a recommendation has come from, for example, or what work of art a title has influenced. I sometimes pick up books because my favourite singers mention them in songs, or wander through bookstores with no plan, in the hope of finding something marvellous. It’s a habit that’s stayed with me for as long 42 —
MAY 2019
W RIT TEN BY LINDSAY PEREIR A
as I can remember, a private ritual of self-discovery, like the ones we all have and so rarely think about. My editor prompted this train of thought by asking what was on my bedside table. The assumption was that we are all readers, even though sometimes a majority of us pick up books for little other than entertainment during a long commute. It’s probably how 98 per cent of India’s writers make it to local bestseller lists. Reading continues to shape every aspect of our lives though. The books I read while working towards a university degree ought to have faded, for example, and yet I find Mrs Dalloway continuing to exert a pull, her creator’s shadow on my shoulder as I cherry-pick words to round off this sentence. I had two ways of responding to my editor’s question: One, by using the table as a setting for what I read
ILLUSTRATION: KATHARINA BOURJAU (READING)
The revolutionary act of reading
only in the small hours; two, by listing all the books I am currently in the middle of. I decided to go with the second approach because I like allocating books for specific parts of my day. Mornings are for something light, allowing me to dip into pages while buttering toast. These days it is How To Be Invisible, a collection of lyrics by English singer-songwriter Kate Bush. It helps that my admiration for her work is shared by fans, like the novelist David Mitchell – his preface to the book explains why she matters far better than I ever can. I grew up listening to Bush, prompted first by her otherworldly debut, the song “Wuthering Heights”, before moving towards her deeper cuts as she explored everything from philosophy to feminism and sexuality. As Mitchell explains so eloquently, what gives Bush her power is an ability to condense an enormous amount of information into a few sparse lines. On the song “England My Lionheart”, for example, the line “Dropped from my black Spitfire to my funeral barge” alone managed to throw five centuries of English history into perspective. I choose heavier titles for my commute,
which ought not to make sense but does, because I feel the need to sink into something completely to ignore the noise around me. I am close to the end of Edward St Aubyn’s fictional Melrose cycle, following the dissolute life of his antihero Patrick Melrose, and have surprised myself by empathising with the wasteful lives of English aristocrats. When I return every evening from a job that sucks out my soul, I gravitate towards graphic novels, because the best ones bring the right amount of levity, intelligence and storytelling to ease the kinks out of awful days. This week, I chose a re-issue of Derf Backderf’s My Friend Dahmer. A journalist who happened to be a cartoonist, Backderf also happened to know the serial killer. Who could blame him for writing his story? His book was first published in 2002 as a pithy 24-page record of Dahmer’s teenage years. It clearly deserved more attention, leading to a 224-page version almost two decades later. What I like best about Backderf’s account is the manner in which it humanises a notorious murderer who took 17 lives, showing how other people’s failures pushed him towards the grisly path he eventually chose. The hour after dinner and before bed is currently reserved for Nick Cave: Mercy On Me, an unusual graphic biography of the legendary Australian musician by German cartoonist Reinhard Kleist. Cave himself describes the book as a product of “half-truths and complete fabrications”, which doesn’t bother me in the least, given how the most interesting people are those who create their own myths. It reflects his chameleon-like approach to art, literature and music, with characters from his novels and songs jostling for space. Fact and fiction blur, and sprinkled across its pages are nuggets for hardcore fans to revel in. But this isn’t just for those familiar with Cave’s work across decades; I would happily gift a copy to anyone who loves a good story. It does take a certain amount of pomposity to assume one’s reading habits are worth sharing, but it’s also one of my favourite questions to most people I meet because of how much the responses reveal. I think about the physical act of reading a lot more than I used to. Because what was once an act of simply sinking into a chair with the nearest paperback is now evaluated carefully alongside everything that has been pored over before. A book I pick up must now mean something; it must move or challenge me, or even infuriate me, making my investment in it worthwhile. I suppose this happens to us all, the recognition that years no longer stretch out endlessly before us. So many books; so little time. Lindsay Pereira is a regular contributor to GQ India. Follow him on Twitter @lindsaypereira
MAY 2019
— 43
Rare Rabbit & Rarism Name/Logo are Registered Assets
VIBE EDITED BY NIDHI GUPTA
MUSIC
THIRD STREAM With a boisterous new album, London-based musician Sarathy Korwar – purveyor of free-spirited, cross-cultural Indo Jazz – is opening channels for some sonic laissez-faire across race, genre and geography
WRIT TEN BY DHRUVA BALR AM
I
n 2016, Sarathy Korwar “threw a party in a labour camp”. The London-based jazz fusion musician had been granted a residency in Dubai, a year after a mentorship under Gilles Peterson and Four Tet (Kieran Hebden) as part of the prestigious Steve Reid programme. “I was DJ’ing 1990s Bollywood music. The guys who’d lived there for eight years had never seen anything like this,” he says, unwilling to reveal how and why he ended up in this situation in the first place. “Not a single thing. The energy was amazing, and we had to shut it down because it was getting too wild. We had to tell everyone to go outside, get some air, drink some water. W R I T TIt E Nwas B Ythe D Hbest R U V gig A BI’ve A L Rdone A M in a long time.”
This may not sound like an ordinary concert, but for Korwar, playing to a crowd of 3,000 labourers in a remote camp miles outside of Dubai is quintessential of his ability to connect with audiences of all makes and sizes: Whether he’s at London’s renowned Royal Albert Hall or in front of young Indian fans of alternative electronica at the Magnetic Fields Festival in Rajasthan, he enthralls as much as he intrigues. It was also in 2016, after his debut album Day To Day dropped, that Korwar gained significant attention as a jazz musician and percussionist. The reality is that he’s long been making waves in the insular bubble that is the jazz scene in London, which is where he’s spent the last ten years. “I came to do my Master’s at SOAS MAY 2019
— 45
VIBE [School of Oriental and African studies] in 2011,” he says. “I’d moved here earlier to attend a drum school.” On this typically dismal, grey Friday afternoon in the city, we are at Korwar’s studio: a woody cabin situated at the end of a long, grassy backyard. Like the large house in front of it, the studio used to belong to legendary folk musician and guitarist Bert Jansch – a founding member of the band Pentangle. Framed on the walls of Korwar’s studio are photographs of Jimi Hendrix, David Bowie, The Beatles and Jansch, along with album covers of soul-funk group Booker T and the MG’s, and JJ Cale. Jansch’s red-and-blue checkered woven rug still adorns the entrance; once the doors close, the outside world is drained out. It is here, in the heart of London’s bustling immigrant neighbourhood of Kilburn, that Korwar finds calm. Born in America, Korwar lived in India until he was 22. The music he creates is a reflection of the multiplicities of what it means to be South Asian today: a collage of the past, the present and the future; a patchwork that almost demands to be revisited, time and again, as you discover something new – an instrument, a chord, a certain sound – with each listen. Influenced by musicians like Charles Lloyd, Miles Davis, Terry Riley, Brian Blade and Bismillah Khan, but also “Noam Chomsky’s thoughts on anarchy”, the path Korwar is now carving is brand new. He doesn’t particularly subscribe to the notion that he’s part of the London jazz resurgence – “it depends who writes the article” – but, he isn’t “South London
Covers of Sarathy Korwar's albums
born and bred”, he didn’t “grow up with Grime, or with the sound system culture”. “I feel like I’m the only brown person in the [London jazz] industry that’s making music. I’m still focused on talking about [being Indian], [but] I just want to be able to define it for myself now.” Korwar also seems to have unfettered freedom to make whatever comes into his head. And he’s using this rare privilege to hold the door open for others, rather than being a gatekeeper. “You’ve been taught to think that, as an immigrant South Asian, there isn’t space for more than one of you in this industry,” he professes. “Finding those other people,” South Asians or not, “doing interesting work: it’s always great. You gravitate towards them anyway.” This is exemplified in his upcoming album, More Arriving, under the Leeds-based The Leaf Label. Within eight tracks, Korwar manages to fuse together elements of South Asian hip-hop, Afro-jazz and classical Carnatic and Hindustani song structures. Affirming the strength of community, love, kinship and, most importantly, unity, it’s Korwar’s most political and powerful work yet. On the album, “Everyone’s talking about stuff they want to talk about,” says Korwar. “It [is] about shaping a more complex brown narrative.” Take the opener, which features Mumbai-based rapper MC Mawali, an integral member of the Swadesi crew. Over a harnessed cacophony, Mawali spits engaging bars “about Mumbai and Bombay,” Korwar says. “These two narratives are of extremism: colonial and nationalistic. You don’t want to subscribe to either, but you still have to.” “Coolie” features a bizarrely brilliant collaboration between Delhi-based artists Prabh Deep and Delhi Sultanate that swings confidently between 1970s Jamaican reggae and 2019 anthemic hip-hop. Overlapping tabla and percussion underneath a traditional soaring Carnatic vocal arrest you on “Good Ol’ Vilayati”. Spoken word poetry by Deepak Unnikrishnan on the last song of the album, “Pravasis”, gives More Arriving a final, conclusive statement of intent; a declaration of being here and now. The album, in its entirety, is a multi-faceted address that will enrapture old fans, but it’s also a nod to fellow musicians and a way to engage new listeners with his work – something Korwar deems vitally important. “I think one of the things I do think about a lot,” he admits, “is why there aren’t more brown faces at my shows or why there aren’t more brown artists.” With plans to bring artists like MC Mawali to London – to collaborate with the ten-piece Upaj Collective – Korwar also wants to ensure that more British-Indian artists burst through. Through an initiative called Haramacy, started by Kuwait-based artist Zahed Sultan, he’s mentoring young, local musicians in a seven-day-long residency at The Albany in Deptford, South London. “It took me six to seven years to arrive at where I am,” says Korwar, who also considered a career in urban planning in a different lifetime. Now, he wants to give back any way he can: “The more South Asians make art, the more diverse it’s going to be. That’s generally a good thing, because then people can see that there’s no one thing South Asians can do.” More Arriving is out on June 21
GQ PROMOTION
EMBRACE JAPANESE FASHION Swap your pair of dress shoes for the laidback slick with sport-inspired lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger’s iconic Mexico 66 collection
With athleisure being the name of the game, it’s time to put your boots and carefully polished shoes back on the shelves. This season, it’s all about sneakers. From wearing them to work to sporting them over the weekend, these kicks embody the best of comfort and fashion. So go on and embrace your inner swag with the coolest sneakers. Call out your love for this trend with the legendary Onitsuka Tiger. Appreciated the world over for its heritage and modern flair, Onitsuka Tiger is a sport-inspired fashion brand with designs ranging from updated classics to refreshing new styles and collaborations with like-minded artists. Its series of super swish sneakers have been capturing hearts of the most discerning fashion gurus, the world over, ever since its inception. It is this fine legacy, clubbed with an innate sense of pride in its Japanese craftsmanship that propelled Onitsuka Tiger into becoming what it is today – an iconic brand with a timeless aesthetic.
It all truly began in 1949, when Mr Kihachiro Onitsuka set out to help the Japanese youth create a better future – one that would unite people through sports. Decades later and the brand’s core philosophy still remains – innovation, sportinspired style and excellent craftsmanship in each and every iconic creation. THE LEGENDARY MEXICO 66 SERIES Speaking of the iconic, Onitsuka Tiger’s shining star – the Mexico series – was born in 1966. These sneakers actually debuted at the 1968 Olympic Games pre-trials in Mexico! If you’d love to flaunt a pair too, you’re in luck. Reviving this classic, albeit with a fresh new spin, comes Mexico 66. It boasts a retro 60s look with modern updates. Think classic low-top silhouettes and the signature Onitsuka Tiger stripes, formed with metallic stitching. Just slip ‘em on before you head out with the guys and prepare to feel like a total baller.
What makes these shoes so popular is the fact that you can wear them on different occasions. Globe-trotters, take note! If you happen to be flying out of town, these kicks are bound to add that perfect finishing touch to your carefully crafted airport look. Alternately, if you’re heading out on a road trip with the boys, the Mexico series will keep you comfortable while making you look like an absolute trendsetter. Onitsuka Tiger is constantly working towards uplifting its sports fashion trademark into the fashion and lifestyle scene. Proof of this fact lies in their ability to constantly reinvent. And that’s exactly what they did when they came up with the Mexico 66 SD series. Give your ensemble of the day that extra bit of zing with Onitsuka Tiger’s Mexico 66 SD sneakers. A fresh take on the classic Mexico 66, these creations were inspired by Japanese Zen gardens for the Spring-Summer 2019 collection. High-quality leather? Check. A contemporary look? Check. A wardrobe essential this season? Absolutely! What started off as an ode to sports has now become a luxury sport-inspired fashion brand, worn and spotted on streets across the world. Suffice to say that when you choose Onitsuka Tiger, you’re choosing the very best that fashion has to offer, for your feet. Get your Onitsuka Tiger Fix Today! Shop online at onitsukatiger.com
FILM
FROM THIN AIR
Long before she brought an Oscar home, Guneet Monga was laying the groundwork for a revolution in Indian cinema, and scripting the rise of the indie new wave. Now, she’s all set to level up
G
uneet Monga’s highlights from her night at the 2019 Oscars, when the short documentary Period. End Of Sentence won, are: Director Rayka Zehtabchi’s loud shoutout to her in her acceptance speech; being introduced to Bradley Cooper in the parking lot afterwards, where he was “hanging out” with Octavia Spencer and Emma Stone, and somehow refraining from requesting a picture; and making up on the selfie count by accosting Alfonso Cuarón at the Netflix after-party at Soho House, LA – and having the OTT platform’s head Ted Sarandos click some pictures of them. “My inbox was flooded with messages of love from all over the world,” says Monga. Two weeks later, we’re 50 —
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at the tiny, bright office of Sikhya Entertainment, hidden away in a non-descript corner of suburban Mumbai, out of which her 15-member team works end to end on features, shorts and, now, web series. Sunk into a grey couch, she’s wearing a bright yellow bomber jacket from an upcoming indie design brand she’s “invested in”. “We were even celebrated by the mainstream here, all over Twitter. It’s been very encouraging.” At 34, Monga is inarguably India’s leading independent film producer: forever buffing her skill set, from single-handedly putting out the Vinay Pathak-starrer Dasvidaniya in 2008 to working with Anurag Kashyap Films and Balaji to breaking out on her own with Sikhya Entertainment. She’s built an enviable slate of 39 critically acclaimed films (including Gangs Of Wasseypur, The Lunchbox and Masaan): films that’ve often accumulated surprising levels of success on the festival circuit – not just because they’re really good, but also thanks to the properly unconventional methods Monga’s known to cook up on the fly. Today, she’s also a member of the Academy – all nominees are considered, though not all are invited – but Monga is no overnight success. Unless that’s what you call a journey begun in 2010: the year she first went to the Oscars, for Gregg Helvey’s Kavi, a short nominated feature about bonded labour in India. “It was nerve-racking,” she recalls. While lining up for interviews on the red carpet, “Sandra Bullock was in front of me, George Clooney was behind me. Obviously, the press went straight from Sandra to George, totally ignoring this 5-foot-tall person in between them. But George, bless that man, he kept saying ‘the lady first’. The press was literally forced to interview me so they could get to him.” Monga hung around the red carpet for another hour, to put into motion a promotional strategy she and her team had cooked up a day earlier. “We went about requesting people to pin blue ribbons on their lapels and dresses, symbolic of support for anti-slavery,” she recalls. “We didn’t win, but we got the editors who won for The Hurt Locker and Morgan Freeman to wear our ribbons!” 2010 was a pivotal year for Monga: She’d arrived in Mumbai about five years earlier to be a producer, straight after graduation and an internship with her “best friend’s mom”, a coordinator with an international production company in Delhi. Seduced by the atmosphere on film sets and deeply influenced by all kinds of cinema, “from DDLJ and Erin Brockovich to Gulaal and Life Is Beautiful”, she was a one-woman army in those early days. Along with Dasvidaniya, she also produced Say Salaam India, a cricket-based film that, unfortunately, hit theatres the day the Indian team crashed out of the 2007 World Cup. After she joined Anurag Kashyap’s stable, he urged her to travel to the 2010 Venice International Film Festival with the Kalki Koechlin-starrer That Girl In Yellow Boots. This was Monga’s first brush with the the international film industry at large. “I had no idea that we needed to buy advertising space or schedule meetings with distributors beforehand.”
WORDS: NIDHI GUPTA IMAGE: ALAMY (TITLI, THE LUNCHBOX POSTERS), GETTY IMAGES (GOOD OMENS TEAM)
VIBE
"I don’t ever want to take for granted the time that an audience is willing to give us" TV
WINGING IT Break out the bubbly: Armageddon is here Soon, she realised stapling film posters onto their clothes or begging nice Italian café owners to let them use their windows could only do so much. So Monga set off on a pilgrimage of sorts, hitting every festival and film capital in the world, cold-calling key executives at the world’s biggest entertainment houses – and generally letting the world acquaint itself with her. Today, Monga has a network vast enough to confidently say that her USP is “outreach”. She calls prolific producer Stacey Sher her mentor; she’s had “significant” discussions with Priyanka Chopra and Ava DuVernay, another American supernova; she’s got friends in France, Brazil, Toronto. “I can open any door, anywhere in the world, and show them content,” Monga says, matter-of-factly. Her small indie films may have not been as lucky here, with many unseen until streaming platforms gave way. “It’s the price you pay for being early; but I hope they finally release [Vasan Bala’s] Peddlers, and then I can rest in peace,” she laughs. “With the digital boom, this is the first time that money’s chasing content,” Monga says. Even the audience is “suddenly focused on quality; excited about the good, tiny films. You’re going to see an uprising of actors, directors, scriptwriters. I believe in ten years, this is going to become an industry.” Monga’s pursuit, though, remains good storytelling. “We think hard about what it is that we want to put out into the universe; and how we’re going to make a story global,” she says. “I don’t ever want to take for granted the 90 minutes or three hours that an audience is willing to give us.” Upcoming: The Suriya-starring Tamil biopic on Captain Gopinath, and a film with Photograph actor Sanya Malhotra. In early stages of development are a web-series based on Tanuja Desai Hidier’s novel Bombay Blues and a remake of a hit Korean series. This year, Monga might go to Cannes, or maybe Toronto – she hasn’t made up her mind yet. All she knows is that she’s on “a mission”. “I want to bring more women into the film world. I want to tell more brown stories to the rest of the world.” She pauses. “I want to own this hustle.”
A
n angel and a demon, stationed on Earth to monitor the upbringing of the Antichrist, have become a bit too fond of living the way humans do to actually want an apocalypse. So they form a pact: to “guide” the child away from its destructive powers. Except, they’ve got their eye on the wrong kid – and Jon Hamm aka the asshole angel Gabriel is rustling things up for the promised end of days. Neil Gaiman and the late Sir Terry Pratchett’s humourous fantasy from 1990 was an immediate hit, at least in the nerdy circles that consumed fantasy by the trilogy. Good Omens, starring Michael Sheen and David Tennant as Aziraphale and Crowley, is Gaiman keeping his promise to Sir Terry – and giving us a hyperbolic, blazing new show to binge on and feverishly discuss. Just know to pay attention the next time a Queen song comes up. Out on May 31 on Amazon Prime Video
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VIBE Polling officers carry Electronic Voting Machines to a polling station in Himachal Pradesh
INK & PAPER
For seven decades, one commission has presided over one of the greatest human experiments on Earth: the Indian election. Ex-chief election commissioner SY Quraishi’s recent compilation of essays is a unique assessment and celebration of its evolution
T
he SY Quraishi-edited The Great March Of Democracy: Seven Decades Of India’s Elections was nearly a decade in the making. A collection of essays that was initiated when Quraishi was the Chief Election Commissioner (CEC) from 20102012, it was revived recently and arrived this spring, appropriately ahead of India’s 2019 general elections. “It needed more articles, so I wrote to more people, and all immediately said yes. As CEC, my success 52 —
MAY 2019
rate (with writers) was 50 per cent; as former CEC, it was 100 per cent,” he says, laughing. With 27 essays, including one from the editor, the book is divided into four parts, breaking down the Election Commission’s foundation, evolution, perspectives and the future. Dressed in a kurta-pajama in a Mumbai hotel room, the amiable 71-year-old, who believes he was the first Muslim from Old Delhi to get into the civil services, often refers to the EC as “us” as he talks about the book, working on elections and playing music with Sharon Prabhakar. Who did you seek out to contribute to this book? The idea with this book was to celebrate our democracy and to commemorate Indian elections. I wrote to election experts and eminent citizens: Ratan Tata, for example, is a citizen, a voter and a financier.
INTERVIEW: ARUN JANARDHAN. IMAGE: REUTERS (POLLING OFFICERS)
BOOKS
The actor Kabir Bedi, the banker Naina Lal Kidwai and Ela Bhatt of SEWA, were some others. We wanted them to write on different aspects of the elections. We wanted TN Seshan (CEC from 1990-96) to tell us how he transformed the Commission. There is also a chapter on Seshan himself by [Christophe] Jaffrelot. Which are your favourite essays? I am very fond of Seshan – he is a role model for us. I liked Milan Vaishnav’s; he has written on two important contemporary issues. Ila Sharma has written an essay on what India can learn from Nepal. They have, of course, learned from us, but there are certain innovative things that they have done better. [Their constitution ensures the presence of at least 40 per cent women in local governments; and they have proposed that political parties ensure they field at least half of their candidates on senior/executive positions at local levels.] Your chapter is about participation revolution through voter education. When I joined the EC in 2006, voter turnout was 20 to 25 per cent. We needed to do something. We found that the youth and educated people in big towns not only did not vote, they bragged about it. Our first campaign, a parody of a famous [film] song, was in Delhi. The slogan we coined was crude: “Pappu Doesn’t Vote Aaha” – just to rhyme with saala, which is unparliamentary. As a result, there was a 40 per cent increase in turnout. How has the Commission evolved over the years? I have always said that the most powerful election commissioner has the most defective form of appointment. The system of a collegium, approved by a parliamentary committee, is the best way to do it. If you are appointed by a wide consultation, chances of people raising objections are minimised. Lately, there have been questions about the EC, which hurts and upsets me. The reason [for the criticism] is obvious: the system of appointment. In the national interest, this institution should be protected. [The EC] was always meant to be ferociously independent. They even chose a federal commission [instead of state commissions] to conduct state elections. They said that, left to the state commission, the electoral will never be perfect. All outsiders will be kept out, which is the noise being made today. They anticipated this 70 years ago. Has the Commission evolved for the better? Absolutely. In the initial few years [after Independence], though elections were peaceful and not too competitive, the Congress was winning routinely. But when competition arises, problems like corruption and bribery start. The EC also had to keep pace with the changing environment. Until Seshan’s time, poll day murders, booth capturing and rigging were the norm. I remember once, as an election observer in Bihar, after briefing us, Seshan said, “All the best, do your job and don’t worry,
nothing will happen – except a bullet through your stomach and a bomb on your face.” Sure enough, I saw two blasts from 20 yards away. Our elections are a lot more peaceful and bloodless now. What are the challenges for the 2019 election? The sheer size and magnitude of it. We have to reach the remotest corners of the country – 99 per cent is not good enough. We have to reach the last polling station and voter. I was an election observer in Nigeria recently where, a few hours before polling was to start, they postponed the elections by a week because the logistics failed completely. That is unimaginable in India. What were your initial challenges getting into the civil services (as the first Muslim from Old Delhi)? There was no role model to follow. I didn’t come from a privileged background – we were a family of nonEnglish-speaking teachers and religious scholars. My father was the first generation who went to St Stephen’s, and there was a boycott in the community because he was joining a Christian mission college. Then when you finally make it, you become an inspiration to others. You’ve written another book in the past, An Undocumented Wonder: The Great Indian Election. What are your upcoming projects? I have one book on electoral reforms in South Asia, that I’m halfway through. Another one on Islam and family planning, where I will deal with some myths, is nearly ready. One of your continuing projects seems to be music. Is it still an active part of your life? By the time I finished college [History Honours at St Stephen’s], some of us had formed a rock band. I’d become a lecturer in an evening college but I could not afford guitars, so I made my own – I played the bass. That was also around the time when Sharon Prabhakar was a singer in some group, which broke up. Our group broke up too, and musicians from both groups joined together – it was called the Chocolate Experience. We were the only band with a female singer and a lecturer, which led to a newspaper article being written about us. Then there was Garibaldi and His Three Hairs, our band in the National Academy of Administration in Mussoorie – our drummer Madhukar Gupta, who gave this band’s name, retired as Home Secretary of India. Our first performance was in front of the director of the academy: Our drummer used an ashtray, a key ring, a knife and fork for percussion. When the director asked what he could do for us, we asked for money for equipment, and we were given a royal sum of `1,500, and a vehicle to go to Delhi. We now have a small working band. Our lead singer is former National Security Advisor Shiv Shankar Menon, and the basement in my house is now dedicated to music. The band has no name, though someone once called it Bumbling Babus. MAY 2019
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A SKYLINE OF
SUCCESS
The sky is the limit. But not for a billionaire business tycoon like Robbie Antonio. He gets candid on a thing of the past, a project of the present and his plans for the future as he steps into India to redefine luxury homes. Read on to unravel his legacy
GQ PROMOTION
“I grew up in a family that has long been involved with real estate. I think that it’s natural that I am moving in that sphere since I’m very much familiar with the ins and outs of the industry. But I always knew that I wanted to create something on my own,” says Robbie Antonio. If you’re wondering who this gentleman is, look him up and you’ll know, this billionaire real estate tycoon happens to be the youngest Filipino on Forbes’ list of Philippines’ 50 Richest 2017 and 2018. He is also the Founder and CEO of Revolution Precrafted, a billion-dollar prop-tech company that serves as a global marketplace that connects developers, fabricators and suppliers with customers to create traditional and prefab structures. Speaking about his vision and mission, he exclaimed that he wanted to spearhead a project where he could use his own network, his own ideas and his own experiences. He wanted to prove that he can build something from the ground up. He started Antonio Development in New York and partnered with Pei Partners and I M Pei – renowned for their work at the Louvre, to create a design-focused residential project in Manhattan. After that, he went back to the Philippines and helped spearhead branded real estate for the company business. He pitched the idea of designing condominiums in partnership with some of the biggest brands in the world such as Versace Home, Armani Casa, Trump Organization, Missoni, and yoo by Philippe Starck among others. But this was just the beginning of a legacy. Over the years, his vision came to life as he got inspired by other tech-based companies. “I wanted to create a business that would have very minimal inventory risk, something scalable and easily expandable,” said Antonio. The end result was Revolution Precrafted. The company initially served as a global supplier of designed prefab homes and received a lot of attention with that model. They have since then evolved to become a global marketplace that links designers, fabricators, suppliers and customers to create both traditional and prefab projects. Antonio was clear about one thing, he wanted to help address the global demand for homes, so he also created a new line of affordable homes that are easy to build and very cost efficient. Expanding their product lines was very strategic as it helped them enter a lot of important markets in Asia, Middle East, South America and the Caribbean. Since their launch in December 2015, the company has left a footprint in 31 countries in Asia, Europe, Africa, The Caribbean, North, Central and South America. At the end of 2018, they were present in 28 countries. For the first four months of 2019, they secured country dealerships in South Korea, New Zealand and India. And now that they are here, they expect to have a significant presence and growth in the Indian subcontinent. Throwing light on his plans in India, Antonio explained, “To make this possible, the common process is that we find a partner fabricator and supplier in countries that have close proximity with the target destination of the homes. But that would translate into significant cost in shipment and transportation. In order to be competitive in the Indian market, where the construction cost is already low, we will have to partner with local contractors, suppliers and fabricators. We will also have to introduce designs that are primarily meant for Indian households to ensure that the aesthetics, insulation,
ventilation are all ideal for potential homebuyers.” If you have heard of a Revolution home, know that this is Robbie’s brainchild. He envisioned a Revolution pre-crafted home as a design-driven structure built either through prefab and modular processes or through traditional homebuilding. These are either curated homes designed by their partner revolutionaries – a collection of 80 of the world’s best preeminent architects, designers and artists or ‘basic homes’ designed by the internal architectural team. Either way, a revolution home observes the highest standards of design and quality. Robbie is known around the world, because of his successes in the fields of both real estate and art. Last year, he was named as the 'Philippine Real Estate Personality of the Year' by Property Guru, and was also named as one of the '25 Pioneers Who’ve Transformed the Build Industry' by BuiltWorld magazine. Earlier in 2016, he was included in the list of 'The World’s Top 100 Art Collectors' by Artnet magazine. He used his vast real estate experience and his flair for art to create Revolution Precrafted, which is a marriage between architecture, real estate and design. Talking about his notes on India, Antonio said, “No matter where you are, people love homes that are beautiful to look at, and they must be sturdy no matter the weather conditions. We will prioritize design and quality while keeping it cost-efficient. India and the Philippines are also similar in such a way, that homebuyers from both markets listen to celebrities and influencers when buying something essential. Part of our strategy is to get Indian-based celebrities and designers
GQ PROMOTION
“WE ARE ROLLING OUT OUR NEW BUSINESS UNIT CALLED RENEGADE CONCEPTS, WHICH WILL ALLOW US TO ACHIEVE THE FULL POTENTIAL OF OUR PARTNERSHIP WITH GLOBAL DESIGNERS AND CELEBRITIES.”
BILLBOARD by David Salle
GQ PROMOTION
BUTTERFLY HOME by Elizabeth De Portzamparc
“WE BELIEVE THAT IN THE NEAR FUTURE, WE WOULD BE A SIGNIFICANT PLAYER IN THE INDIAN REAL ESTATE INDUSTRY. WE HOPE TO BE ABLE TO RISE TO THE OCCASION AND BUILD BOTH AFFORDABLE AND CURATED HOMES IN INDIA.”
GQ PROMOTION
to come up with stunning home designs that will be appealing to the local market.” In the coming months, Antonio and company will also be participating in real estate exhibitions in Mumbai and New Delhi to bring their concept closer to customers, local developers and fabricators. This is where they plan to meet India-based suppliers and fabricators to partner with them to explore many and varied possibilities. “I am very proud of what Revolution Pre-crafted has achieved in such a short time. We only launched in December 2015 and we have already become a unicorn company. We have grown exponentially in terms of revenues as well. We achieved a 917 per cent growth in 2018 as compared to 2017. Our sales network has grown to over 700 people and other full time employees are now nearly 100 people from only 30 at the start of 2016. In terms of geographical expansion, we are now present in 31 markets and territories." He went onto talking about his role in India as he confidently said, “We want to believe that in the near future, we would be a significant player in the Indian real estate industry. India is a massive market and there is just so much demand for housing here. We hope to be able to rise to the occasion and build both affordable and curated homes in India and in the entire subcontinent.” The prop-tech stalwart has major plans of expansion in store. It begins with growing his product lines to include affordable homes in order to serve a wider market. It begins with rolling out three new companies that have potential to become billion-dollar global firms such as: Renegade – a marketplace for franchise
concepts, Renaissance – a market place for celebrity branded home furnishing and products as well as Relevant – an aggregated influencer e-commerce and media company. Renegade Concepts, will allow them to achieve the full potential of their partnership with global designers and celebrities. This unit would be primarily involved in creating franchising and licensing concepts and leveraging on their global network of celebrities. At present, they have partnered with global boxing icon Manny Pacquiao to create HITT gym. They have also partnered with super model Helena Christensen and designer Camilla Staerk to create a spa and yoga concept called Vindauga. In the Philippines, Renegade also unveiled a new biking gym studio called TEMPO in collaboration with celebrity biking enthusiast Troy Montero. This year Renegade plans to introduce at least 10 new concepts while Relevant and Renaissance target to enlist several celebrities and influencers from around the world, including some of the biggest and beloved stars in India. With Robbie’s unparalleled business acumen, many observers believe that it is only a matter of time before the new companies reach unicorn status. When it happens, is there time for Robbie to breathe and rest on his laurels? “Definitely not. I thrive in adversity and I grow and evolve by challenging myself. I look at every success as a stepping stone towards another goal. A lot of people say I should already relax, but I always tell them that I am only just beginning,” said Robbie.
VIBE GAMES
LIVE OR LET DIE
Fastest fingers first in May’s big essential gameplay
S FILM
WORLDS APART New cinematic verses, biopics and a crazy horror flick: The screens are a-scorchin’
Taron Egerton as Sir Elton John in Rocketman
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I
n Rob Letterman’s Pokémon Detective Pikachu, everyone’s favourite pocket monsters level up: into a live-action adventure-comedy with Ryan “the cure to el everything” Reynolds doing a sarcastic Pikachu. Not so cute will be the face-off between Hollywood’s love-to-hate dinosaur and mythical monsters like Mothra, Rodan and King Ghidorah, as puny human armies of crypto-zoologists, soldiers and statesmen watch from the wings in Michael Dougherty’s Godzilla: King Of The Monsters. Meanwhile, the OG creator of fantastical monsters, JRR Tolkien finally gets his own biopic, Tolkien, which seems more Dead Poets Society set in the British countryside; basically, Middle-earth. Presenting his own hot takes on popular urban legends is James Gunn (Guardians Of the Galaxy) who, in Brightburn (directed by David Yarovesky), shows you what happens if the alien baby picked up by a clueless couple in the wild Midwest is no Superman. And across the pond, director Dexter Fletcher and actor Taron Egerton celebrate the superhuman talents of Sir Elton John in Rocketman, a biopic that might just help you recover from Bohemian Rhapsody.
WORDS: NIDHI GUPTA. IMAGE: DAVID APPLEBY (ROCKETMAN)
Team Sonic Racing
im racing enthusiasts, your nostalgia shot this month comes not from another NFS reboot but the fastest, bluest hedgehog in the universe. If Sumo Digital’s Team Sonic Racing is too tame for you, try out the sophomore issue of Avalanche’s Rage, where you role play as a Mad Max-style ranger, armed with rough jokes, guns and a thing called Wingstick, negotiating your way through a post-asteroid-hit world. Mildly less gory survival play can be found in Asobo Studio’s A Plague Tale: Innocence, set in 1348 France. As you and your sibling solve puzzle after puzzle to survive a massive rodent infestation, you’ll learn this is no Ratatouille.
EDITED BY SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR
THE
DENIM ISSUE
You probably wear your jeans more than any other item in your wardrobe, so it pays to know which silhouettes are trending, how to customise a pair and why there’s never been a cooler time to invest in conscious clothing. Better yet, make denim your all-over armour because in the age of maximalist fashion, all roads lead to crafting a free-spirited style, and we show you how best to get there. Read on, denimheads.
IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. PHOTO: JIGNESH JHAVERI. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL
new world order
FROM TOP: DSQUARED2 AVAILABLE AT THE COLLECTIVE, `95,000. DIESEL, `41,000. PHILIPP PLEIN AVAILABLE AT THE COLLECTIVE, `1,25,000. DSQUARED2 AVAILABLE AT THE COLLECTIVE, `70,000. CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, `13,000
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STYLE THE
H O W -T O
THE MODERN DENIM GLOSSARY
DENIM ISSUE
Six ways to flex every fashion muscle in your body without really having to leave your comfort zone. Actors Aashim Gulati and Vijay Varma show you how P H OTO G R A P H E D BY P R A B H AT S H E T T Y
It’s the best way to add variety to your denim collection. And it comes ripped, stitched and worked to new life in a way that will keep the compliments coming. Just remember to go for something less distressed, with no more than five patches, to avoid looking like an art project gone bad. JACKET BY PEPE JEANS, `5,000. T-SHIRT BY SELECTED HOMME, `1,600. JEANS BY GAS, `13,000. SNEAKERS BY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, `69,000. NECK CHAIN BY MISHO, `12,500. WATCH BY ARMANI EXCHANGE , `9,000
PRINTS
G rey m a t t er
Stone-washed jeans are a good alternative to black or blue when you want to shift your style game 68
It’s the not-so-secret weapon of street style peacocks – a mash-up of contrasting prints that magically look like they were meant to be. But don’t be fooled, every influencer puts careful consideration into each look. To follow suit, stay within a tight colour palette and allow the different sizes of the pattern to do the heavy lifting. JACKET BY CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, `15,000. SHIRT BY G-STAR RAW, `7,000. JEANS BY DIESEL, `41,000. BOOTS BY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, PRICE ON REQUEST
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY. HAIR & MAKE-UP: SERGIO ALVARES/FAZE MANAGEMENT
PATCHWORK
STYLE
Al in btle u s r o s t x e t r a p h ic
G e h t p u k a e r textures b of white monotony WHITE
JACKET BY SCOTCH & SODA, `15,000. SHIRT BY DIESEL, `15,000. JEANS BY PEPE JEANS, `4,500. SNEAKERS BY ONITSUKA TIGER, `15,000. WATCH BY APPLE, `52,900 NAMASTE CHAIR BY BOMBAY ATELIER, PRICE ON REQUEST
STREET Some people might turn their noses up at wearing sweats, but we’re in the era of functional fashion, and nothing spells comfort more than pairing good-quality joggers with a denim shirt and kickass kicks. The key lies in picking neutral colours – you don’t want your lounge look mimicking your night suit. SHIRT BY DIESEL, `15,000. JOGGERS BY ARMANI EXCHANGE, `15,000. SNEAKERS BY TOD’S, `52,000 NAMASTE CHAIR BY BOMBAY ATELIER, PRICE ON REQUEST
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WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY. HAIR & MAKE-UP: SERGIO ALVARES/FAZE MANAGEMENT
Not since Sir Elton John in “Rocket Man” (and we mean the OG version) has so much white blinded the runways of mega fashion houses. We’re not saying go full-on ruffled feathers and puffy shoulders, but wearing all-white, especially in these sweltering months, may not be a bad idea.
STYLE TWO-TONED It’s this variety of denim that separates old-school from new-age – and the trick lies in borrowing from both: the cool of the latter delightfully coalesced with the preppiness of the former. Panelled, cropped jeans and a striking jacket set off by vintage tennis-inspired nubuck sneakers help you hit the sweet spot. JACKET BY CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, `13,000. JUMPER BY SELECTED HOMME, `3,000. JEANS BY DIESEL, `35,000. SNEAKERS BY ONITSUKA TIGER, `15,000. WATCH BY APPLE, `52,900
e e t d i ol s a r i a p s y a w l A , m i n e d d e on t o w t with to temper this look
DOUBLE DENIM The Canadian tuxedo may have gotten a bad rap, thanks to Justin Timberlake circa 2001, but this is the new, improved and, frankly, polished way to wear denim all over. The best part about this suit is the subtle vibe it gives off – which means you don’t have to be an indie rocker or country musician to reach the top of the charts. JACKET, `19,000, TROUSERS, `12,000; BOTH BY SCOTCH & SODA. T-SHIRT BY UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON, `1,600. SNEAKERS BY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN, `73,500. WATCH BY APPLE, `52,900
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WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY. HAIR & MAKE-UP: SERGIO ALVARES/FAZE MANAGEMENT
G ot the blues
www.shantanunikhil.com
#ImperfectlyComplete
THE
STYLE
DENIM ISSUE coming here, people’s perception of denim was changing. Suddenly, jeans went from a basic five-pocket garment to what they are today: a part of everyday workwear. Of course, it’s also helped that the job market has changed and, with it, the culture. It’s now more easy-going and casual. Today, even the most formal businesses such as banks accept casualwear on weekends. Why do you think there aren’t more Indian denim brands? Generally speaking, India hasn’t succeeded in building a global apparel house. And people who want to buy into the world of denim want to see it coming from a specialist.
EXPERT SPEAK
THE DON OF DENIM
The workhorse of every guy’s wardrobe comes from a cool homegrown denim brand INTERVIEWED BY ABHISHEK MANDE BHOT
W
hen I meet him at his new office space in Mumbai, Kamal Khushlani is celebrating the 21st anniversary of his company, Mufti Jeans. The space is an ode to the Maximum City, Khushlani’s home and Mufti’s birthplace. It’s where he wants to anchor the brand that he says also represents the spirit of the city. Over the last two decades, Mufti has evolved from being a local brand to a national denim player. In a market dominated by inexpensive regional labels and high-end international houses, that’s no mean feat. Which also makes Khushlani uniquely qualified to explain what it takes to manufacture the one piece of clothing that guys wear until it literally falls apart. How has denim evolved in India over the last two decades? In 1998, when we started out, India used to be a product-led market. There were a few local labels that did well, but we didn’t have a pan-India brand. So we decided to launch a concept we could take across the country. We started experimenting with cuts, fits and fabrics, introducing new silhouettes, and we discovered that, thanks to international labels that had started
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What are the challenges and opportunities for you, as you operate at a place between luxury and fast fashion? The real challenge is faced by high-end denim brands. Even though the Indian market is huge, a consumer looking for a good pair of jeans won’t pay `15,000. We serve as the bridge between these two ends of the spectrum. And because of an emerging upper-middle class, this niche is largely under-serviced. I only see opportunities here. What is Mufti’s USP? We recognised early on that the fit and cut of jeans make all the difference, so we’ve spent considerable time understanding the Indian body type to be able to deliver those. How different is it selling today than in 1998? It’s a paradox. In some sense it’s easier because today the market is bigger, consumers are more aware and more receptive of new trends. At the same time, it’s also difficult for the same reasons – now, men are fussier, and there are also more options. How do you strike the right balance between trends and practicality? With every new line, we’ll have a small part of the collection that’s targeted at the early adopters of new trends. The rest of it follows directional trends, which is what we call mass chic. We maintain that balance in all our collections.
FROM LEFT: SHIRT, `2,500, SHIRT, `2,500, JEANS, `3,800; ALL BY MUFTI
/ PA R E S H L A M B A S I G N AT U R E S
/PARESHLAMBA
W W W.PA R E S H L A M B A S I G N AT U R E S.I N
STYLE THE
DIY
MAKE YOUR MARK
Nothing spells individuality better than clothes that are one-of-a-kind works of art. So, we got designers Kanika Goyal, Sahil Aneja and Nitin Chawla to go crazy on a pair of classic Levi’s 501s, to inspire you to make your own masterpiece
DENIM ISSUE
KANIKA GOYAL “We’re big on deconstruction, so we took some old fabric lying around and used it as patches, for a two-toned effect. we also added blocks of orange to give it a pop. The pockets at the bottom give these jeans a cool edge.”
EXPERT ADVICE
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MAY 2019
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR
“The first rule of DIY is that you don’t have to be a designer or artist to customise your own pair. The idea is to let loose and let your creativity flow. Take vintage denims, a pair of pants you don’t want to wear or old T-shirts and patch on pieces to create layers.”
PHOTOGR A PHED BY PR ABHAT SHET T Y
PACE TO GLORY
S hop online at www.asics.com
asicsindia
asicsindia
STYLE SAHIL ANEJA “Our design philosophy focuses on minimalism, so we didn’t mess with the denim's authenticity. instead, we created a contrast with our signature error sign, cross stich and bright colours. We also added a metallic chain for a touch of grunge.”
EXPERT ADVICE
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR
“The fun of DIY lies in making a product that reflects your personality. Using permanent markers and fabric paint is a great place to start. Play around, and remember, one never knows how things will turn out. Enjoy the process.”
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PROMOTION
STYLE
THEOREM BY NITIN CHAWLA “I wanted to play up the idea that jeans are a representation of urban street style. so I deconstructed the entire pair, with the idea to remake, reimagine and explore. I created two pairs out of one, and then added chunky nickelfinish zippers. The process was so fun that I’m taking this further and planning to introduce it to jackets and shackets.”
“You can do patchwork thatʼs easily stitched or attached/detached with a snap button. Tie-dye on a white pair of jeans, especially in summer, is cool too – you can get a local dyer to help with this.”
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WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR
EXPERT ADVICE
S P E C I A L F E AT U R E
PUSHING BOUNDARIES Nikhil Arora – Managing Director and Vice President of GoDaddy Inc., India – talks about how the company’s empowerment of entrepreneurs, and its close association with cricket and philanthropy, fuels his passion Since joining GoDaddy in 2017, Nikhil Arora has gone on to make it India’s leading domain registrar and web hosting company, winning ET’s Best Brands 2019 Award. And he isn’t all about the money. Arora has also established the company’s philanthropic arm, and has personally led initiatives like digital literacy drives for entrepreneurs and school children. He is often seen leading GoDaddy employees in sports events to support orphanages and NGOs like ‘Save The Children India’. Under his leadership, GoDaddy India has developed a powerful association with cricket, and is now the official sponsor of the ICC Cricket World Cup 2019. Fresh from winning The Economic Times’ Most Promising Business Leaders of Asia 2019 Award, he spoke with us about the company’s aim to empower entrepreneurs, and to harness the reach and impact of cricket. Tell us a little about your journey and what made you want to be a part of GoDaddy. I have had the privilege of leading businesses across industries and geographies, with a special focus on mentoring start-ups and entrepreneurs. At GoDaddy, our aim is to empower everyday entrepreneurs with the tools, insights and expertise to help transform their ideas and initiatives into success. With our integrated suite of online products and services as well as skill building programs, we are paving the way for the next wave of digital entrepreneurship in India. This, personally, is very exciting and fulfilling for me. Where does your interest in sports come from? For me, sport is a way to de-stress and meditate on the road ahead. Staying fit also allows me to focus better and achieve
Nikhil Arora – MD and VP, GoDaddy Inc., India
THROUGH CRICKET, WE HOPE TO CATALYSE THE ENTREPRENEURIAL ZEAL OF FANS. NOW, WE ARE THE OFFICIAL SPONSOR OF THE ICC CRICKET WORLD CUP 2019. – NIKHIL ARORA more. Finally, I think sport is a great connector; it can bring the most diverse people together, pursuing the same goal. How has GoDaddy supported cricket over the years? GoDaddy has long been associated with cricket. We sponsored a home series v/s Sri Lanka in 2017, among other cricketing events. We’ve also partnered with MS Dhoni for our new Bijness Bhai campaign, and also support his entrepreneurial venture. Through cricket, we hope to catalyse the entrepreneurial zeal of fans. Now, we are the official sponsor of the ICC Cricket World Cup 2019. It is a global event where players, communities and 1.5
MS Dhoni as GoDaddy’s Bijness Bhai
billion fans (700 million from India alone) converge, making it the perfect platform to showcase the ease and affordability of GoDaddy. It also allows us to reach people in Tier II and Tier III cities and fuel their entrepreneurial spirit.
GQ PROMOTION
THE COLORPLUS STYLE UPGRADE
You’re at your most stylish when you’re at absolute ease. And ColorPlus’ smart casual range of ensembles perfectly reflect this very thought An important business meeting. A coffee date. Sundowners with the boys. Or a daytime yacht party. Your life is always packed with things to do and places to be. And at the centre of it all is your wardrobe. What do you wear? What’s the best way to channel that swag while also being comfortable? Thankfully, ColorPlus has the answer with their new Spring/Summer 2019 Collection that draws inspiration from the many facets of the everyday man. This includes the Holiday Collection and, for the first time ever, the Movement Collection. This summer launch will leave you asking for more as it reflects every man’s need to have a combination of style and comfort in his wardrobe across occasions. The collections offer everything you need, especially if you’re aiming at pulling off that ‘Smart Casual’ look. “ColorPlus is a brand for the quintessential man. Our summer collection will meet all your sartorial needs. However, my personal favourite is the Movement Collection which is essentially a capsule of stretchable chinos, which gives you extreme comfort whether at work, in flight or during long travel hours. This collection enhances an ease of movement and has a softer hand-feel.” said Mr Suman Saha, COO Raymond Apparel Limited and Made to Measure. THE HOLIDAY COLLECTION Dress sharp this holiday season with ColorPlus’ Holiday Collection, boasting excellent craftsmanship and design. Opt for Linen shirts in colours ranging from soft green to bright blue. Light and breathable, these shirts are great picks. Pair them with linen shorts while you lounge by the beach. The Holiday Collection also offers trendy Cuban Collared shirts. Think eclectic prints in fun colours that’ll look great on your Instagram feed. THE MOVEMENT COLLECTION Be it at work or in flight, ColorPlus’ Movement Collection guarantees absolute comfort. Enhancing an ease of movement, this collection is spread across shirts and chinos, with a higher retention and a softer hand-feel. Its revolutionary Four-way Stretch Chinos and Stretchable Waistbands will definitely keep you comfortable all day long. From linen shirts for beachside lounging to four-way stretch chinos while you work, the Spring/Summer 2019 Collection has something for everyone. So, what are you waiting for? Shop for great pieces from these new collections, right away! For more information, visit raymondnext.com/collections/colorplus or follow @ColorPlus on Facebook and @colorplusIndia on Instagram
In Our Summer’ 19 Collection To locate a ColorPlus store near you, please visit: www.raymondnext.com/pages/colorplus-store-locator
STYLE The Smartic shoe, inspired by basketball legend Kobe Bryant
IN THE NEWS
RED HOT
The man behind the most identifiable shoes on the planet has a new style called Loubi runners. In reality, he’s asking you to slow down
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hat made you introduce functional fashion to the codes of Christian Louboutin? It’s very simple: me, in the sense of being a man. I understand this current epidemic of functionality that’s seeped into every man’s wardrobe.
Smartic is a new silhouette you’ve developed for next season. Tell us about it. This one was very interesting. I was doing a special order for Kobe Bryant. I started to draw a shoe, which to me represented the silhouette of Kobe. He’s tall, thin, with big feet – not wide, but long feet. So, I had a very specific silhouette in mind, which resulted in the Smartic. Then I updated parts of it, like adding a chunkier heel. When you wear something slightly thicker or higher, in terms of heels, even with a suit, it becomes totally irresistible. You’ve also said that good-quality shoes were meant to be passed down generations. Does that idea still hold? You know, it’s changed. When I started out, I believed you kept shoes for your children. But men have changed, and their sense of fashion has evolved, similar to how women are. You’re not thinking about keeping them for 25 years any more, you’re not thinking about how you’re going to polish them every Sunday. Are rich leather shoes making a comeback? If you look from the 1970s to now and see events like the Oscars, which is strictly black tie, you’ll see every person wants to express themselves differently. There was a time when the focus was on the tie. There’s been a moment where it was very much about the hair. Now it’s definitely the shoes.
Is that how the Loubi runner came to life? The idea first came to me in Morocco a few years ago. An actor asked me to make a shoe for him: He said that, at his age, he couldn’t wear lace-ups. Even I never wore them, and it wasn’t even a matter of age. So I told him I’d make him a shoe, but it would be practical, something you could put on and close with one hand.
Is sneaker culture deeply ingrained in fashion today? It’s a wave that goes back and forth. Design ideas are around sneakers, comfort has become important. But I think it’s a wave. My sister came for lunch at my house in Portugal, and she got out of her car barefoot. We have a lot of rocks where I live, so it’s not great to do that. She said, “I couldn’t drive with those sneakers. You can’t do anything!” So what’s the point of buying them, I asked her. She said, “Sneakers are about style, not comfort. Do you think my sneakers look comfortable?” I said no, they look great, but they don’t look comfortable. They’re expensive too. Ten years ago, you wouldn’t buy sneakers for the same price as a pair of classic shoes. Now, there’s no difference. It’s about the impact of the shoe and the hype around it. 86 —
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INTERVIEW: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR
You once said, “Don’t reject the shoe because you can’t run in it. It’s okay not to run.” I said it metaphorically, and still stand by it. You shouldn’t have to run, but enjoy the slow pace. If you walk, you’ll see things. If you run, you’ll only see one perspective.
STYLE F R E S H TA K E
ECO WARRIORS
Nobody loves fashion more than we do, but in terms of pollution, the clothing industry is right up there with oil and gas. And denim is the worst destroyer of them all – right from growing cotton with toxic pesticides to using hazardous dyes and gallons of water on a single pair of jeans. Luckily, some brands are using organic or recycled materials, and finding ways to better the environment through eco-conscious denim. Get in line
THE
DENIM ISSUE
FUTURE PROOF Fewer chemicals and mechanical processes have gone into making this shirt. In fact, every piece in GAS’ present denim collection employs this ideology. Now you know where to buy your next denim shirt.
You can check off many boxes with this one pair: It’s treated with a special antibacterial solution that allows you to wear it for at least a month without washing. It’s part of U.S. Polo Assn.’s Better Cotton Initiative, which uses a field-to-store concept that betters the livelihoods of cotton farmers. And it replaces hazardous chemicals with milder agents to make your conscience as happy as your skin.
ROLL ON Part of GAP’s Washwell program that started in 2016, this pair uses 20 per cent less water than conventional manufacturing processes – saving 100 million litres of water so far.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHIRT BY GAS, `7,000. JEANS BY U.S. POLO ASSN., `3,600. JEANS BY GAP, `4,000
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. PHOTO: PRABHAT SHETTY. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY
ALL ROUNDER
STYLE
E C PA
THE INSIGHT
S AGE
Sexy robots and technicolor lights mark the future of Dior Men under fashion wizard Kim Jones W RIT TEN BY SHI VA NGI LOL AY EK A R
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he hypnotic Robot Restaurant in Tokyo’s Kabukicho district in Shinjuku may be the after-hours playground of Japan’s salarymen, but on this occasion it’s been turned into a one-night delight for a collective of editors from across the globe, layered in edgy, luxe streetwear to keep up with the island country’s unmatched fashion cred. It’s the night before Dior Men’s Pre-Fall 2019 show, and the Parisian house, unlike its compeers, who’d treat you to a Michelin-star dinner, has set us up for a bizarre, mind-altering visual experience as a precursor for things to come. The only requirement?
IMAGE: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO FOR DIOR (RUNWAY SHOW), MOTOHIKO HASUI/DIOR (MODEL), JACKIE NICKERSON/DIOR (BAG)
All eyes point to the future as Kim Jones reimagines the iconic Dior saddle in hardass metal
A full phone battery, because this is going to be Insta gold, and you’d want to give everyone on the outside some serious life envy. The legendary Robot show inside the multistorey space, with a trippy stairwell and 3D wallpaper, is the stuff of TripAdvisor top ratings: blaring pop music egging on neon-covered warrior princesses and stuffed, life-sized pandas to fight ten-foot-tall robots under ricocheting laser beams. As I inhale a bento box and sip on potent sake from a lit-up Dior x Robot lightbulb, an ageless Kate Moss on the opposite side of the YMCA-like courtside seating half distracts me from the 90-minute futuristic spectacle. Next to her is a cool and collected Kim Jones, the man in the creative high chair of Dior Men.
im Jones’ tryst with Japan began way back as a newbie designer. As he traversed the world’s best fashion houses – Dunhill, Mulberry, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Hugo Boss, Iceberg, Topman, Uniqlo – before settling down as Dior Men’s artistic director, he acquired all the crucial moving parts of what makes a successful fashion icon. His creative prowess, of fusing refinement and street, luxury and sport, was playing out long before it blew up as menswear’s most dominant influence. His passion for adventurous travel, including a long-standing love affair with India, allowed him to foresee fashion for the global man. His finger firmly on the cultural pulse, topped off with a clever understanding of mainstream commerce, has seen him produce clothes for the zeitgeist. Not to forget his sublime nod to the existing codes of whichever house he’s at, and bringing in heavyweight collaborators for a look into the future. But what’s arguably Jones’ biggest triumph is just how seamlessly he coagulates all these factors into one mega fireball that sets the men’s universe ablaze. And it couldn’t have been more evident than here in Tokyo.
I
f the mash-up of Harajuku dolls, Transformer beasts and live taxidermy animals at Robot wasn’t enough to make your eyeballs do a 360 in your skull, Dior takes it up a notch the next day. A 39-and-a-half-foot-tall statue of a sexy silver robot with a glistening thong and pert bosom stands seductively in the middle of a technicolor laser show at Tokyo’s Telecom Centre. The mastermind behind the delicious fembot with her perfectly precise curves, who makes me question my non-existent fitness routine, is genius Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama. Jones has been a longtime admirer of Sorayama’s work, and after a successful collaboration with American 3D art king KAWS for his debut MAY 2019
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DAVID BECKHAM
BELLA HADID
A$AP ROCKY
STYLE
WITH HIS FINGER firmly ON THE CULTURAL PULSE, TOPPED OFF WITH A CLEVER UNDERSTANDING OF MAINSTREAM COMMERCE, KIM JONES HAS PRODUCED CLOTHES FOR THE ZEITGEIST
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Diplo banging out some electro house at the after-party
Princess warriors at Robot
Sake in UV light bulbs is a drink we can get behind
IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES FOR DIOR (CELEBRITY)
Spring/Summer ’19 collection for Dior Men, he made no reservations about his ultra-modern aspirations for the Parisian house. But before you’re sucked into believing this is all high-tech and cutting-edge, Jones brings on the romance by subtly paying homage to Christian Dior’s love for Japanese culture and art – from the choice of city to the bright cherry blossoms lining the runway and the show’s two closing looks inspired by Monsieur Dior’s own patterns for a Japanese client, rendered in buttery black leather. Using his wizardly ways, Jones is defining a new form of fashion time travel, a hybrid of the past, present and future by taking from Dior’s archives and presenting it in modern actuality as an oft-imagined robotic tomorrow. The clothes are equally symbolic of the fact that men come in all variations and ages: silk monogrammed shirts and satin polo necks. Dapper houndstooth and grey slim-fitting suits. A white astrakhan bomber and tactical cargo pants. Robotic co-ords and logo-heavy jumpers. There’s nothing you can’t find, whatever your disposition. A space-age, shiny-ass upgrade of the monogrammed saddle – the bag of the year – is a slam-dunk bestseller. There’s no better proof of Jones’ far and wide universal appeal and success than the diversity of his power-packed front row: David Beckham in a posh suit; A$AP Rocky rocking metallic trousers and a sheer shirt; Bella Hadid decked out in a turtleneck; Kate Moss in an oversized blazer. But none turn out to be a bigger star than Jones himself, who proves yet again that he’s miles ahead of the curve.
GQ PROMOTION
YOUR SUMMER STYLE STAPLES
As the heat wave continues to rise, looking your best begins to look like a drag. But with ASCOT by your side, you can effortlessly dress your way through summer with the lightest and most versatile outfits
If you think summer and style simply don’t belong together, think again. If your sartorial fix for this scorching season comprises a basic tee and denim shorts, it’s time to change things up with these summer must-haves by ASCOT, exclusively available at Westside. This season, don’t let the heat burn out your style. Swap those heavy fabrics with lighter and more breathable ones. Its timeless classics and semi-tailored silhouettes make for effortless dressing, be it at work or at play. Whether it be shirts or chinos, here’s how you can sail through summer in sheer style.
WEEKDAYS AT WORK
With all the work you have piling up on your desk, the last thing you need is an outfit that sticks to your body uncomfortably. Instead, lift up your spirits with ASCOT’s light blue linen shirt. A fresh summer colour, it’ll also ensure that you keep up with the trends. Pair it with these navy cotton linen chinos just so that you can make a lasting impression at that important boardroom meeting. Priced at `1,699/- for the light blue linen shirt and `1,899/- for the navy cotton linen chinos
WEEKEND STYLE FILE
Whether it’s a road trip with the boys or Sunday brunch with a date, weekends are meant for some fun. And it’s important to dress the part. As you mix and mingle, embrace the sunshine with this breathable white cotton shirt from the brand. Wear it with these taupe shorts, step into a pair of classic white sneakers, grab your sunglasses and you’re good to go! Priced at `1,299/- for the white cotton shirt and `1,499/- for the taupe shorts
Get these looks at a Westside store near you or shop online on Tata CLiQ
STYLE
GET FRAMED THE EDIT
An often neglected accessory, these top styles will guarantee you don’t make a spectacle of yourself
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MAY 2019
PHOTO: JIGNESH JHAVERI (SUNGLASSES), EFRAIM EVIDOR (FRAMES). STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL (SUNGLASSES), KEANOUSH ZARGHAM (FRAMES)
FROM TOP: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, `20,000. PRADA, `19,000. BURBERRY, `17,500. GIORGIO ARMANI, `16,000. DOLCE & GABBANA, `27,000. RAY-BAN, `10,000
S p a c e A ge
N ot for the faint-hearted thils futuristic pair wi make heads turn FROM TOP: NIKE, `41,500. CHRISTIAN DIOR, `31,400. LACOSTE, `9,200. PRADA, `20,000. HUGO BY HUGO BOSS, `12,000. VERSACE, `15,000
APRIL 2019 MAY2019
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STYLE
Manish Poddar standing tall at Rare Rabbit in Mumbai
CLEAN SWEEP T H E TA S T E M A K E R
The concept menswear store that you can’t afford to miss
W RIT TEN BY SHI VA NGI LOL AY EK A R
A
mong the many things I find hard to do, shopping for a man on the high street is a big one. It could be for a birthday, anniversary or simply because I feel generous. The pressure is quadrupled because of my GQ tag, and expectations run high in my circle of male friends. Fact is, India’s premium high street space isn’t as evolved as it should be. And while a steady stream of international brands come in each year – Uniqlo is next on the roster – there are presently only a handful of cool stores for the country’s urban man to shop for his daily wares. Add to that the current global firestorm of men seeking qualityconscious clothes, and accessible fashion falls short of hitting the sweet spot between style and substance. One of the top contenders changing the game is Rare Rabbit.
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY MANISH MANSINH
My first physical Rare Rabbit experience was a few months ago, at the launch of its new Linking Road outpost in Mumbai. The store, a tony space lit up to precision, highlights a wholesome brand covering the length and breadth of menswear, from fine-ass polo shirts to titanium bow ties. Manish Poddar, Rare Rabbit’s owner and creative director, who’s armed with a CV that would make the country’s top stylists stand to attention, saw the lack of a homegrown label that could take a man’s wardrobe from basic to boss. And went all out to prove that Indian men don’t need to shop abroad for good clothes. Poddar, who was highly influenced by television and cinema (he would buy second-hand fashion magazines at Churchgate station), developed a passion for clothes early on. He went on to work in textiles in 2001, learning the science and flair behind Italian tailoring
STYLE
"MEN HERE ARE NOT SEXUALLY AND PHYSICALLY EMPOWERED IN THE WAY THEY SHOULD BE. WE’RE ALL RABBITS" for boutique brands. In 2003, through his family-owned company Radhamani Group, he began creating clothes for the king of high street retail, Inditex – the parent company of Mango and Zara worth over a billion dollars – and learned his nuts, bolts, business and craft. By 2011, he says, he felt, “Most Western garments are made by Indians. India as a country doesn’t need anything else from the outside. But to satisfy people here, you have to be willing to change. I changed. I realised I needed to add a little flash. That you can’t just have depth, you need more and more variety.” Poddar’s codes for Rare Rabbit are in sync with the Indian man. Rare (obviously). Playful. Colourful. For a man who’s arrived and understands the power of dressing for manners. “Men here are not sexually and physically empowered in the way they should be. We’re all rabbits. We’re a fashionable country which cares about the details. We don’t need a logo behind our garment. Our shirts don’t speak about branding, and clothes are first for ourselves,” he educates me. Poddar’s dream would be to dress a certain class of sophisticated men like Jackie Shroff, Naseeruddin Shah and Milind Soman. And he’s not far from making that happen. With 22 stores across the country and a booming e-commerce portal since he launched the brand in late 2015, he plans to have a total of 40 stores by the end of this year – filled with top-quality shirts, graphic T-shirts, fit-to-perfection chinos and statement accessories. I don’t have to look too far for those gifts any more. 98 —
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GQ PROMOTION
WINDOWS OF WONDER
Designed to inspire, Fenesta, India’s leading windows and doors brand, brings you the most innovative designs that will transform an ordinary space into an extraordinary masterpiece Corner Slider
Georgian Bar
When it comes to spiffing up your home, there are plenty of things to consider – new furniture, the perfect shade of paint and of course, the tiles. But between choosing from paint swatches and picking between futons and recliners, you might forget to think about windows. And that simply won’t do! After all, windows are pieces that provide depth and create style. It’s where you sit by and lose yourself between the pages of a book or enjoy some me-time with a mug of coffee. Simply put, windows act as little portals to the outside world and so, they deserve to be done up in style. As leaders in the design, manufacturing and installation of customised windows and doors, Fenesta helps you do just that. And it offers plenty of styles for you to play around with.
CORNER SLIDER Perfect for turning cozy nooks into corner balconies or garden spaces, these are fitting designs for contemporary spaces. They also come with an integrated bug screen and efficient sealing, keeping away pests, noise, rain and even dust.
SWITCH GLASS Trims
Blending privacy with functionality is Fenesta’s Switch Glass. Its Piezoelectric effect lets the glass switch
Switch Glass
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TRIMS Embellish your windows with Fenesta’s perfect trims. Trims make windows stand out as an architectural focal point, enhancing the overall appeal. Choose from an array of the brand’s door and window trim styles to add a distinctive element to your home.
GEORGIAN BAR Boasting a timeless aesthetic, this window art style has been revived by Fenesta to reproduce the stunning effect of Georgian or Victorian windows. By fastening astragal bars, Fenesta creates the appearance of classic casement windows with multiple panes. Georgian bars improve the aesthetic value of homes while bringing you closer to nature. For more information, visit fenesta.com or call 1800 102 9880
I R E V A H J H S E N IG J Y
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1. NEEMLI NATURALS Caffeine & Cucumber Under Eye Cream, ` 775 2. TRUEFITT & HILL West Indian Limes Bath & Shower Gel, ` 2,000
5. THE BODY SHOP Peppermint Cooling & Reviving Foot Spray, ` 825 6. BURT’S BEES Facial Cleansing Towelettes With Cucumber & Sage Extracts, ` 950 100 —
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4. THE MAN COMPANY Lemon Shave Gel, ` 350
WORDS: JEENA J BILLIMORIA
3. INNISFREE Green Tea Sleeping Mask, ` 1,150
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7. L’OCCITANE Verveine Agrumes Shampoo, `1,490 8. KAMA AYURVEDA Mint Lip Balm, `575
10. THE FACE SHOP Aloe, Lemon, Cucumber Face Masks, `100 (each)
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11. BOMBAY SHAVING COMPANY Refreshing Face & Body Wash, `295 12. KIEHL’S Calendula & Aloe Soothing Hydration Masque, `4,500
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WORDS: JEENA J BILLIMORIA
9. RAW NATURE Eucalyptus Tea Tree & Mint Talc Spray, ` 899
WATCH
The star of Montblanc’s 2019 Heritage collection is just what the doctor ordered
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WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
Heart of the matter
ontblanc’s acquisition of Minerva back in 2006 added a bright feather to its cap. For a Swiss luxury brand hoping to polish its watchmaking credentials, the addition of the 149-year-old Villeretbased chronograph wunderkind opened up several mechanical possibilities. It also bestowed the sort of legitimacy that two decades in the Swiss watchmaking business simply doesn’t get you (Montblanc began making watches in 1997). Flash forward to today and the brand appears to have utilised Minerva’s watchmaking chops well, particularly when one looks at the Heritage collection, which continues to get new and exquisite additions every year. Inspired by Minervabuilt watches from the 1940s and 1950s – an era that saw an unprecedented burst in chronograph innovation – the Heritage line seamlessly blends the traditional elements of watchmaking with Montblanc’s touch of modernity. This year’s breakout star was undoubtedly the Heritage Pulsograph: a vintage era-inspired doctor’s watch that can measure your heart rate. This sort of technology might’ve been rendered ubiquitous thanks to the arrival of smartwatches, but it was revolutionary stuff six decades ago. Doctors relied heavily upon this technology, which makes it a cracker of a collector’s item today. The Pulsograph stood out at this year’s SIHH, headlining what was clearly a prominent trend at the exhibition: the warm smoked salmon-coloured dial. Limited to only 100 pieces, the watch’s dial contrasts perfectly with the cold steel case, the smoked effect further accentuated by thin blue accents, which are applied onto an outer minute track for a proper vintage look. Apart from reading your pulse, the watch also serves as a chronograph, featuring an in-house Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Calibre MB3.2. The calibre is a modernised version of the famously reliable Minerva Monopusher movement from 1920. Domed dial, anthracite-polished numerals, Dauphine-shaped hour hands – the attention given to vintage design is staggering, which easily qualifies it as one of the best tribute watches of the season.
Sugar Rush WATCH
Richard Mille’s latest collection is a sucrose-laden indulgence for the well-heeled watch enthusiast
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WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
hose familiar with the lore of Richard Mille know that its path has never really converged with that of conventional watchmakers. At a time when prestigious Swiss brands were still relying on rare and exotic metals to sell watches, Richard Mille was creating timepieces on the back of industrial materials, which had each been tested under extreme conditions – the likes of which hadn’t been conceived before (such as subjecting the RM27-03 to shocks of up to 10,000Gs). But even for a brand as steadfastly unique as Richard Mille, basing an entire line on retro confectionery is a bold move. And that’s exactly what the new Bonbon is. Utilising a total of 60 colours, the Bonbon (a term used to describe a soft, sweet confection) series aims to represent the universal,
unbridled, saccharine-drenched joy that comes from candy and sweets. Comprising of ten watches divided into two categories – Sweets (four watches) and Fruits (six watches) – the collection was Richard Mille’s swansong at the 2019 SIHH: bringing some muchneeded levity to the otherwise somber proceedings of the world’s most prestigious, Richemont group-run watch exhibition. Based on refreshed versions of previous Richard Mille watches, development for the collection began 18 months ago. The Fruits set is headlined by the RM1601 Fraise – a recognisably rectangular departure from the brand’s trademark tonneau shape – which features miniature sculptures of fruits, painted in acrylic and lacquered by hand. While many have speculated that the tongue-incheek collection satirises the presumed, ivory-towered contrivances of the Swiss watch world, particularly given the brand’s bowing out from SIHH, the Bonbon really is a throwback to the link between colour, confectionery and one’s childhood – and an effort to stir up some nostalgia. It also shows Richard Mille’s robust ability to take itself lightly, while continuing to adhere to its maxim of remaining a little zany and staying well off the beaten path.
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SWITCHING GEARS Pivoting from the racetrack to the command centre of motor sport with Gautam Singhania WRITTEN BY ARUN JANARDHAN
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tanding amid a riot of colours, symbols of decadence, works of art – all of them powerful, glamorous and million-dollar cars – Gautam Singhania seems a bit tired. It’s not surprising; putting together The Super Car Show with vintage and classic vehicles, bikes and buggies, new and old, shiny and shaky, is hard work. Even if the chairman and managing director of Raymond Ltd has been doing this for a decade, the sheer volume of logistics appears exhausting. At the MMRDA Grounds in Mumbai’s BandraKurla Complex, where The Super Car Show was held in early February, a fiercely air-conditioned tent in the middle of the field stands out as a place of refuge from the sharp afternoon sun. Surrounded by cars, both inside and outside the tent, this is where Singhania hangs out with Graham Stoker, Deputy President for Sport of the Fédération Internationale de L’Automobile (FIA). Around us are an orange Chevrolet, a red Lamborghini, a yellow McLaren Senna and a red Porsche, besides some vintage beauties. A TV screen silently plays videos related to Singhania’s racing achievements. The man himself is in a red Raymond T-shirt, yellow Saber shoes and jeans, shuttling between conversations and coordination in a cordoned-off section, even as sundry visitors’ cell phone cameras flash around the pit. The 53-year-old textile baron, car collector, racer, adrenalin junkie and adventure seeker has moved on to a different chapter of his life – switching from high-speed racing to motor sport administration, focusing on his responsibilities as a member of the World Motor Sport Council, which is a part of the FIA. There’s a time and a place for everything and that, vis-à-vis racing, he says, has passed. For someone who didn’t race professionally, Singhania has several accomplishments to his credit. He was second in the overall standings in his maiden full season of the Ferrari Challenge Europe (Coppa Shell) Series in 2015, where he also got ten podiums overall in the championship, including a maiden win at Mugello, Italy. He won the 2014 Ferrari Pirelli
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GQ INSIDER Open at Brands Hatch in the UK (the first and only Indian since to do so) and scored a podium finish at the Britcar Championship at Oulton Park. Then, there was a double win in the NGK racing series at the Yas Marina Circuit in Abu Dhabi in 2014. In the same year, Singhania became the first Indian to qualify for the Ferrari Mondiali Challenge, and earned himself a podium finish at the World Ferrari Finals (Finali Mondiali) in Abu Dhabi. He’s also tried his hand at drifting – winning in the amateur category of the All Stars European Drift Championship at Malta in September 2012 – drag racing, rallying, off-roading and track racing. All of which require different skill sets to handle vehicles of varying power and manoeuvrability.
“A complete man,” he says, grinning, pointing to his vehicular versatility using Raymond’s tag line. “I haven’t done rallycross, which I would have loved to do. Motor sport has hundreds of variants, so...”
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n the lounge on a higher floor of the flagship Raymond store at Breach Candy where we meet again a few days later, a room designed for special guests and bespoke clothing, Singhania is more relaxed. In a fitted red round-neck T-shirt, jeans and loafers, this is an extension of his neighbouring home, the relatively new, towering JK House. “I wanted to achieve something and I did it [with the Ferrari Challenge],” he says, about racing.
Gautam Singhania with his Ferrari 458 Challenge Cup car
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GQ INSIDER
“I proved to everybody I was quick, including myself. Winning in Mugello was a real high. Sometimes, it’s best to quit on a high. I’m a recreational racer now, a recreational auto junkie. I now play with my toys.” Singhania’s packed calendar this year will include a private tour of his car collection for a club abroad, of which he is an honorary member. Three members of this fellowship of hypercar owners, including Singhania, will open up their homes to the others. He’s personally not too keen on hypercars though, because he believes it’s too much money for too little. “[Hypercar-makers] are all small car companies,” Singhania explains. “They make two to 20 a year. I don’t know how long they’ll be there, because of the way the world is going. It’s not because they aren’t doing anything different, but because the lower-rung cars are catching up so much quicker. Frankly for me, hypercars, the $2-4 million variety, are not my kind. They’re sexy, look beautiful, [but] for me a $200,000 Ferrari is great. More bang for your buck.” “The second thing spoiling the hypercar market is that there are too many variants coming out too quickly. You buy a limited edition today, and there’s another one the next year, and one more the year after. Consumers buy a limited edition believing it will hold some value. But, if I know that at the end of three years it will drop 30-40 per cent in value, there’s no appeal.” Singhania has always loved his cars: since the age of four, when he got his first go-kart. He progressed to
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Gautam Singhania in Alibagh
a Fiat in 1983, followed by a Maruti and a Mercedes, before he moved on to supercars. Singhania says that he has a “few” cars today because he doesn’t count them, and that he’s a better driver because of that first “Dukkar” Fiat. “You can’t compare a Fiat [from those days] to the worst production cars of today. There’s a world of difference in the technology,” he says. India is an important market for the FIA, as it is for most sports looking to expand their base and revenue. Singhania’s job is to promote motor sport in India, to find ways to reduce the cost of car hardware and increase the number of events. The X1 Racing League, promoted by Indian racers Armaan Ebrahim and Aditya Patel, a first-of-its-kind city-based, Indian Premier League-style event with street circuits, to be held later this year, has his support. As an FIA member, he can help get permissions and approvals. Virtual racing is another big opportunity because it’s inclusive racing at a low cost, in which millions can participate from their homes. “We’re looking at it, though we’re not ready yet. You can soon sit at home and participate in my championships. We will make it happen,” he says. Does Singhania miss the world of high-octane racing? “Being part of the FIA has been exhilarating. In life, you have to keep evolving. Motor sport has given me tremendous joy; now it’s time to give back to the sport.”
PHOTO: ASHISH SAHI
SINGHANIA HAS ALWAYS LOVED HIS CARS: HE WAS FOUR WHEN HE GOT HIS FIRST GO-KART. HE PROGRESSED TO A FIAT IN 1983, FOLLOWED BY A MARUTI AND A MERCEDES, BEFORE MOVING ON TO SUPERCARS. HE SAYS THAT FIRST ”DUKKAR“ FIAT MADE HIM A BETTER DRIVER
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BANDHGALA, TROUSERS; BOTH BY SHANTANU & NIKHIL. SHIRT BY RAJESH PRATAP SINGH. WATCH BY IWC
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GQ INTERNATIONAL MAN
BIG MOVES Menswear maestro Nick Wooster rocks the freshest gear from India’s top fashion designers for a new definition of global cool
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e’s an American menswear icon and street style god who at 59 shows up guys half his age just by being in the room. Maybe it’s his enviable wardrobe filled with a long list of Japanese designers. Maybe it’s his badass swagger, that had every influencer excited about his presence at the GQ Style & Culture Awards. Or maybe it’s his keen eye for relevant fashion that made him an iconoclast long before social media even hit the scene. Whichever way you look at it, there’s no denying Nick Wooster a place in the upper echelons of high fashion. His dynamic CV includes being an ex-buyer for Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys, and design director for Polo Ralph Lauren. He’s a favourite with editors and critics alike, a serial collaborator with the world’s leading fashion brands (he’s just finished a collection for Paul & Shark men’s and is on to designing a women’s line). So when he came to India to receive his crown for International Man, we thought: Why not dress him up in urban luxe Indianwear from the country’s top designers, for a fresh take on the most virile human being in America, touted as a one-man fashion army? How would you define what you do? So, I need an elevator pitch, because I can’t. But essentially, I’m a model; I’ve actually been on the cover of GQ twice. I’m not a designer but I have products bearing my name. I make money three ways: I consult with brands and stores, I design and put my name on products and I get paid for pictures on social media.
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S H I VA N G I L O L AY E K A R
Does social media have a lifespan? Here’s the thing: It will be ridiculous to say that it will not change. But it’s like how television hasn’t killed radio and streaming hasn’t killed television. I know there will be other channels. But I think that Instagram will have the longest lifespan, because it was smart enough to adapt to all the ecosystems of technology out there. It has the video component like YouTube. It has stories like Snapchat and it has a platform like Twitter. Do you think people today consume fashion online more than offline? Magazines, GQ specifically, are the first things I ever saw. It was almost like pornography because I was like, “Wow, you can look at something and desire it so much.” Things have changed; we look at a screen instead of a page – or we do both. We go to stores and also buy things online, but it’s still commerce and content. Young designers you think are changing the fashion game? I have an attitude where I need to see a little bit before I decide. The education system in the US, and globally now, works at protecting kids in a way that they don’t have to endure the kind of obstacles we did. There are millions of talented people, but that doesn’t necessarily guarantee success. It’s kind of like being a retailer today or working in publishing. If you can’t do the traditional part and the future part equally well, you’re fucked. You can build an amazing store, 113
BANDHGALA BY RAJESH PRATAP SINGH
but if your website doesn’t function equally well, you’re dead. If you want to be in content creation but you can’t take beautiful videos, you’re dead. So to answer your question, no one comes to mind. What about the musical chairs that’s been going on with established menswear designers at big fashion houses? I would venture to say that some people in these houses today are miscast for the roles they’ve been given. Will it work out? I don’t know. I still believe in the power of brands, and I certainly believe in the power of the groups that can shepherd them even when they do make mistakes. But do all of these brands need to exist? My guess would be no. And I think there might be a reckoning of these fashion houses, especially in the women’s arena. 114 000 —
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Which designers are you partial to? Maybe it’s because I’m old, but I believe Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons is the single-most important designer living today. Obviously, Karl Lagerfeld was too and, really, you can’t argue about his contribution to fashion. I wear a lot of Sacai, Kolor, sometimes Rick Owens. But I still believe in the likes of Nike, Vans, Converse, Levi’s, Ray-Ban, Clarks. In menswear, it’s always been about the classics. Even if you don’t have money, there’s no excuse for you to not be stylish. I also believe that you have to do something on your side, which is: go to the gym. If you can look good in a white T-shirt and jeans, you can look good in anything. What’s your fitness routine like? I’m more aware of my body. It’s not that I train very
BANDHGALA, TROUSERS; BOTH BY KHANIJO. SHIRT BY RAJESH PRATAP SINGH. SNEAKERS BY ONITSUKA TIGER
hard, but I believe the secret is in constantly moving. The secret to a strong Instagram image? The one thing Instagram has taught everyone is that colour and logos register so much better in pictures and videos. So, I see much lust for that. It’s forced brands and people to understand that print, colour and a logo can be really captivating, and on some level people dress to get clicked. In a way, this has been happening for a long time. I would argue that all fashion is insecurity, which isn’t necessarily true for me, but it’s hilarious when people have multiple logos, to stand out. I think it’s too many ideas in one look. You have to know how to balance it out. The best things about being in fashion today? That you can really wear anything. Like, guys can wear women’s clothes, women can wear men’s clothes. There are no real rules. Maybe geographically there can be, but if you want to be stylish, there are a million ways to do it. You can whisper, and you can shout but there’s always something for you. Feel confident in what you are wearing. What would you never wear? I would’ve said fanny packs but I now wear them like a bum bag that I put across my shoulder. Square-toed shoes, probably. Your biggest fashion inspiration? Airports. People you follow closely on social media? Well, pornstars.
KURTA BY ANTAR-AGNI. SNEAKERS BY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. WATCH BY IWC
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SHIRT BY KUNAL RAWAL. SHORTS BY COMME DES GARÇONS. SNEAKERS BY ADIDAS ORIGINALS. WATCH BY IWC. HORN DINING CHAIR BY RED BLUE & YELLOW HAIR & MAKE-UP: MONA ANAND/ BBLUNT FASHION ASSISTANT: SELMAN FAZIL PRODUCTION: MEGHA MEHTA
FEBRUARY 2019
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IPL Cricket Fever Kicks Off
INDIA
The Best Travel Hacks
APRIL 2 019 `150
SUMMER STYLE Look Cool In The Heat
GAME OF THRONES
THE FINAL BATTLE STARRING
KIT HARINGTON
SUM THE FASHMER IO ISSUN E
INDIA
P H OTO G R A P H E D B Y TA R U N V I S H WA
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t’s mildly humid, with clear skies and track temperatures dialled down to “toasty” – not the usual setting for a track day at the Madras Motorsports Race Track (MMRT) in Chennai. The pit lane is decorated with an impressive, heavily decaled Volkswagen Polo, dubbed the “Winter Project”. It’s got a mid-rear-mounted, 1.8-litre turbo-petrol bristling with promise, anti-roll bars, foreboding looks that only one-off, wildcard prototypes tend to have – and, for the moment, it can’t be driven.
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Not by delusional motoring hacks, anyway. It needs a trained hand, and Volkswagen’s got professional racers for the job. Volkswagen Motorsport India head Sirish Vissa and his team whipped up this Polo RX, literally, over the winter. And it’s this sort of proficiency that’s made it the only motor sport outfit in India to create an international-grade, FIA-certified race car and racing series. It’s been ten years since VW Motorsport India became a reality. And to commemorate that, we’ve
WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
Celebrating ten years of Volkswagen Motorsport India in the best way possible: driving its souped-up creations on a racetrack
From left: The Polo RX; VW Motorsport India’s new Vento, built to run in the Indian Touring Car championship; the 203bhp Ameo Cup car; the rally-bred Polo R2
WE'VE GOT EVERY race car created by vw Motorsport india lined upand ready to hit the track. This is what ultimate play dates are made of
got every single race car created by it lined up in the hangar, ready to hit the track. This is what ultimate play dates are made of. It’s easy to trace the progression of the division, starting with hopping out of the silver age 1.6-litre Polo TDI, built for the first Polo Cup – front-heavy, no ABS but equipped with a bruiser of a diesel engine, with plenty of linear grunt. It’s also tail-happy enough to break in the novice driver on the art of catching power slides. The Polo Cup, followed by the Vento Cup, soon went on to establish itself as the foremost one-make racing series in the country. It was backed by professional training, servicing, and created pathways to greater forms of motor sport – including international exposure. The cars then switched from 1.6-litre diesels to 1.2-litre TSI turbo-petrols with ABS, more power and a slick DSG gearbox. The power levels have been steadily on the increase ever since, as the Cup cars inch closer to being international-grade race cars, all the way through to the current generation of Ameo Cup cars. Healthy power levels of 203bhp, slick, paddle-assisted gearboxes and advanced onboard telemetry systems – the spoiler-equipped race car makes for a truly exhilarating track session. It’s got cricket-like agility and a short wheelbase, making it fairly tractable; a remarkable piece of skunkworks ingenuity. In Vissa’s own words, the Polo RX is still very much a work in progress. Was there a crying need for a rear-engined race Polo? Not really. But it was made “because it’s just a really cool thing to do,” he says, grinning widely. VW Motorsport India also aims to make it available for the fledgling racer to buy and keep in his/her garage. While the price hasn’t been finalised, a sub-`50 lakh sum means you’re not leaving a Ferrari-sized hole in your bank account. And this thing packs a wallop. A taxi ride confirmed that the rear-engined treatment wasn’t purely experimental (even though that’s what the “X” stands for). The Polo RX steers far more sharply than a frontwheel-driven one, and a potential 2.0-litre turbo-petrol transplant could make it a proper giant-killer on the track. Although too novel to be a Cup car, it’s got plenty of potential on autocross and rallycross circuits. Sequential shifters, lower kerb weights (1,200kg with this version) and, ultimately, faster lap times – the instinct for innovation in the pursuit of speed has evidently been preserved through the decade. And that’s brought VW Motorsport India to this juncture. While it sets the stage for upcoming races, I’ll just wait for the call asking me to drive the Polo RX. MAY 2019
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DRIVE
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WEAPONS
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WORDS: PARTH CHARAN, IMAGE: PARTH CHARAN (CAR EXTERIOR)
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Does the new BMW M5 continue to reign as king of the super sedans?
ottering about town has convinced me that the car I’m driving is a daily drive, top-shelf luxury sedan. The ride is supple, the steering is light, the ground clearance doesn’t prompt any wincing as I traverse Mumbai’s altitudinally diverse roads. Even a look at its exterior signifies restraint – the front air intakes are large, but not too large. The overall design is muscular but not bulbous, and no one, save for eagleeyed punters, has any idea about the unfathomable levels of power this car is hiding in plain sight. For all practical purposes, this might be any other top-trim BMW 5 Series in running shoes. Until it isn’t. Squeezing the accelerator triggers an instantaneous avalanche of propulsion – the likes of which should be accompanied with disclaimers. The M5 doesn’t cover distances as much as it removes them from existence even before your brain has had the time to process it. Under the hood is a 4.4-litre, twin-turbo V8 making 600bhp of power and a staggering 750Nm of torque. This car, perhaps to the chagrin of purists, now comes with a four-wheel drive system, albeit a partial one that largely sends power to the rear wheels and kicks in only when detecting a slip. Of course, you can turn off Driving Stabilisation to make it RWD-only steering, and the throttle and gearbox response can be sharpened by changing settings for each individually, making it a default setting with two quick-access “M” buttons on the steering. It’s not just the way this car delivers power; it’s the manner in which the gearbox, engine and chassis work together. There’s so much power and torque being delivered, you can almost feel it being curtailed and managed effectively by the electronic aids providing maximum adhesion – indicating that 4WD on a 600bhp car isn’t necessarily a bad idea. The tyres bite hard into the tarmac with the 8-speed, single-clutch auto box, working diligently to keep you in the meat of the powerband. Paddle response would’ve been quicker with a dual-clutch gearbox, but this one’s better equipped to handle all that torque. Despite being a
BMW M5 ENGINE 4.4-L, TWIN-TURBO V8 POWER 600BHP TORQUE 750NM TRANSMISSION 8-SPEED AUTOMATIC PRICE: `1.43 CRORE (EXSHOWROOM, INDIA)
WHAT WE LIKE
How it combines torpedo-like power with trademark Teutonic luxury; clever electronic aids
near-two-tonne car, this feels lithe and primed not just for linear speed, but has an overall track car agility. BMW claims that the new M5 is 15kg lighter than the outgoing one, but it’s just so nimble, it feels like it’s dropped a lot more than that, especially at turns where its sheer, staggering bulk is channelled out of the chassis and into the ether – you have simply no idea where all that weight disappears. There are no underwhelming moments with the M5. The interiors are just so beautifully wellappointed, bathed in dual-tone leather and alcantara, that it’s easy to forget this is one of the world’s most hardcore performance cars. Touchscreen, gesture control, ventilated seats – it doesn’t skimp on luxury. In fact, it’s safe to say that it doesn’t compromise on any front. It just goes about its business of being one of the most sophisticated driving machines currently in production and representing the absolute zenith of internal combustion performance. And does it rather quick, cracking and popping on the overrun, in celebration of the art of driving. MAY 2019
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DRIVE
Model citizen Toyota has launched a new version of the Camry Hybrid. Is the boy scout of executive sedans better than its predecessor?
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WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
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drabness with a mix of piano-black plastic and leather. he previous-generation Toyota Camry Hybrid It has a sharply cut, brightly lit dash with touchscreen was a bit like celery. You knew it was the infotainment, voice command and an HUD unit. You also healthy choice, just not the most compelling get ventilated seats and touch-operated controls in the one. Reliable to a fault with Toyota-grade rear armrest, so you don’t have to perform the laborious (read: weapons-grade) quality, hybrid task of pushing down a plastic button to control the efficiency and top-notch comfort levels, but not the most aircon or folding the blind on the rear windscreen. Phew. exciting or dynamic car. Corners always caught it by This one also springs into action with ninja-esque surprise and the CVT gearbox underwent an identity levels of silence. But there’s a much greater level of crisis whenever you floored the accelerator, leading to refinement and dynamism than before. Sure, it won’t a pronounced rubber band effect and grinding of preattack corners like a mechanised gerbil, but there’s a molars. So, has everything changed with this Camry certain tautness to the chassis that makes the car more Hybrid? Oh yes. engaging to drive. The gearbox is a lot more decisive, While carmakers are very eager to throw the “all-new” the throttle response is sharper and when the combined tag on their latest offerings, the eighth-generation, 2019 power of the electric motor and the engine are at work, it Toyota Camry Hybrid truly warrants it. It’s built on an can feel pretty brisk. It even benefits from a lower centre advanced platform, which Toyota calls the “Toyota New of gravity, thanks to a lowered ride height. Global Architecture”, or “TNGA”, platform, containing a Make no mistake, the Camry Hybrid is still greater percentage of high-grade steel and, as a designed for comfort. It continues to be softly result, boasts of greater structural rigidity. It’s CAMRY sprung, quiet as a mouse and more sophisticated bigger and wider (not that the last one was low HYBRID than before. But it’s encouraging to see Toyota on space) and gets a new 2.5-litre petrol motor ENGINE iron out niggles that were perfectly easy to live supplemented by a fourth-gen hybrid motor, 2.5-L PETROL, with – just to make it a little more exciting. With making the car more powerful (218bhp of 245 V NICKELthe previous model, Toyota had made a perfectly combined power) and efficient. Even the design METAL HYDRIDE BATTERY good car, but with this edition, it might’ve just is a lot more aerodynamic, and considering the POWER made a great one. last one was about as aerodynamic as a bar of 218BHP soap, it’s a vast improvement. This is a far more TORQUE evocative piece of design, with swooping lines, 221NM tapering eyes and an eye-grabbing, chromeTRANSMISSION CVT laden air-dam up front. PRICE: Everything feels sufficiently spruced up and `36.95 LAKH contemporised, particularly the cabin, which (EX-SHOWROOM, has finally been cleansed of its mid-2000s MUMBAI)
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I NSIDER With unprecedented commercial success and critical acclaim, Rajkummar Rao now occupies a unique position at the very top of the Indian entertainment business. Once the ultimate outsider, this rule-breaking actor is blazing a trail – reflecting the drive and spunk of a new Indian generation
PHOTOGR APHED BY ROHAN SHRESTHA ST YLED BY R AVNEET CHANNA
ajkummar Rao doesn’t believe in the one-take formula of good acting. “You know how the media goes on about it, it’s become a thing,” he says, more bored than bothered by the concept. “I think you’ve got to do whatever it takes to get it right.” Sitting in an armless chair directly under the blast of the air conditioner, safe from this April afternoon’s bleachy sun, Rao’s calmly listing the things that vex him about, yes, the Hindi film industry – this large, messy world he’s been dying to be a part of for as long as he can remember – and also day-to-day existence in 2019. He doesn’t like the way all movies are subject to a single formula when promotion cycles begin. He thinks climate change is the most urgent problem we’re facing today (“That video of the starving polar bear...” he trails off, shaking his head). He finds it hard to deal with laziness in his colleagues. He thinks we could all do with a good dose of compassion and a little extra Googling from time to time to find out “what’s really going on”. And he believes that the years ahead are going to be challenging for creators of content to produce something exciting enough to keep the “audience returning to theatres.” But mostly, Rao’s just really glad about what the “digital boom” is doing for India’s entertainment industry. For instance, “I feel very happy for Arjun Mathur. He’s such a good actor and now he’s done such brilliant work in Made In Heaven and people are talking about him,” he says. He’s pleased to see “all these phenomenal writers, directors and actors who have such fire and passion and talent... Just doing more.” Rao, who’s been variously described as an actor’s actor, a director’s actor, a singular proponent of “art for art’s
WRIT TEN BY NIDHI GUPTA
sake”, has been surfing the indie new wave, now a high tide, for a good three years. Murmurs about the blazes of talent he harbours were doing the rounds ever since his turn as a secretly videotaping scumbag in Dibakar Banerjee’s LSD; and then critical acclaim and a National Award arrived with his moving portrayal of a lawyer trying to do the right thing in Hansal Mehta’s Shahid. But all it took to catch the public’s eye was his brief character act as Kangana Ranaut’s patronising fiancé in Vikas Bahl’s stellar 2014 film Queen. Those 20 minutes of screen time also got him his first GQ award for Breakthrough Talent – the first of many. That was well before he went and owned 2017: Leading Amit Masurkar’s Newton and Vikramaditya Motwane’s Trapped; trying his hand at comedy in Bareilly Ki Barfi (Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari) and Behen Hogi Teri (Ajay K Pannalal); and flitting by in Dinesh Vijan’s Raabta. He was a revelation, not only in the sense of what he could do, but also how much, and how fast. In September that year, the day of the ninth GQ Men of the Year Awards, coincidentally, news of Newton becoming India’s official entry to the Oscars broke. And Rao arrived at the ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Mumbai that evening – in a pink floral shirt, cement grey suit and black hat, covering a head shaved for the AltBalaji web series Bose – to collect his second MOTY trophy, this time for Actor of the Year. Much backthumping and hand-pumping followed him everywhere. When Rao’s award was announced, he got a bear hug from one of his inspirations, Aamir Khan, before he skipped up on stage to deliver a succinct speech. “You know, I grew up in a small town called Gurgaon,” he said, a certain quietude in his voice. “I mean, it’s not small any more, but trust me, it was – back then, when I was growing up. And I saw this dream of becoming an > 127
“Cinema has thE power to influence people, to bring awareness, to question things” actor. It was a hard dream to see, but I saw it. And I’m so grateful that I’m living that dream, every day, in this beautiful city.” A year-and-a-half later, Rao’s “as busy as I was in the last, or the year before that. I’ve just been working.” He’s turned up in five more films, switching in and out of characters like a chameleon on Adderall. He’s won several awards and given many brief, thoughtful speeches. He’s proved his bankability and he’s kept the momentum going. He’s finally invested in a house in Juhu, a geographical assertion that he’s here to stay. In the coming months, you’ll see him in Prakash Kovelamudi’s Mental Hai Kya, a psychological comedy with Kangana Ranaut; as an aspirational (and paunchy) Gujarati businessman in Mikhil Musale’s Made In China; in Hansal Mehta’s Turram Khan; and in Anurag Basu’s next, tentatively called Imli. Rao also made a gleeful debut on Koffee With Karan, the primetime chat show that remains a major indicator of how far a Bollywood figure has come, the wax seal of a star’s mainstream appeal. And on a talent show weeks later, he also revealed that he can, in fact, dance – via the classic SRK-patented swivel-inthe-air-and-land-on-your-knees move. But that announcement, about Newton being India’s official entry to the Oscars, is still pinned proudly to the top of Rao’s Twitter page – despite the fact that it didn’t eventually make the cut. I’m thumbing through his feed while I wait in an anterior “room” of a giant vanity van, because he needs “two minutes, sorry” to scrub make-up off his face with a cotton ball doused in micellar water. More recent tweets include an announcement for an upcoming film, Rooh Afza, with Jahnvi Kapoor; a Dalai Lama retweet about meaningfulness and compassion; selfies with long-time girlfriend Patralekha; an endorsement for the just-released true-crime Netflix show by Richie Mehta, Delhi Crime.
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“Delhi Crime just blew me away,” Rao says, once he’s returned a wayward lock of gelled hair to his Johnny Bravo updo. “Shefali Shah is such a phenomenal actor. And Rasika [Dugal] – she’s my senior from FTII. And it’s really amazing that we’re paying attention to the writing now.” Rao is a voracious reader of scripts – he does not care for the industry tradition of “narrations” – and his filmography is evidence that he knows a thing or two about good writing. “I always read the story first, and then see what character I’m playing. I select projects instinctively.” It’s why he did Queen, or Ek Ladki Ko Dekha Toh Aisa Laga, or Stree – because the stories spoke to him. “With Stree I was like, this is amazing. A horror comedy – why haven’t we done this before? This could be a gamechanger.” And it was: Amar Kaushik’s Stree, along with Meghna Gulzar’s Raazi and the Ayushmann Khurrana-starrer Badhaai Ho, made up three of last year’s top ten box office hits, made on comparatively small budgets. Narrative-wise, Rao’s definitely seeing more originality and experimentation. “The stories are getting more rooted, more Indian in nature.” There’s a palpable shift in demand and taste, with audiences always just a tap away from world-class content. “Now,” Rao says, “People want to see actors as characters. It’s not about, ‘I want to be a guy like this’, it’s about ‘I know a guy like this’.” You know these guys: regular Indian dudes, mostly driven by outsized ambition and bizarre levels of optimism. Or, as journalist and author Snigdha Poonam puts it in her 2018 non-fiction book Dreamers: A generation that is “unsatisfied, unscrupulous, unstoppable.” Poonam’s travels through small-town India introduced her to young men and women who had told themselves they were “born to be big” and whose “idea of success includes the ability to switch between right and wrong, based on what they stand to win or lose.” Those who “are massively using Facebook to find each other and WhatsApp to flirt” and are finding it harder to settle for “private jobs with petty salaries.” “Young Indians today see no connection between where they live and what they want from their lives,” Poonam told GQ, over a chat during the Jaipur Literature Fest in 2018. “A 20-year-old in Indore has the same access to information as someone his age in Iowa – and could very well have the same desires.” 132
And can’t you just see Rao, standing out in a line-up of swole stars with his “average” face and lean frame, his Daniel Day Lewis methods and Tom Hanks-like approachability, playing all shades of this 21st-century everyman? There’s another passage in Poonam’s book that somehow seems to evoke Rao’s own life story. “Let’s suppose you are a young Indian who has... Told yourself you were born to be big,” she writes, introducing a section titled “Nothing Is What It Looks Like”, prefacing a story about a wannabe Bollywood star. “No one else sees it, but you don’t blame them. You know you are going to be rich and famous, but you have got to do something to get there. Then one day... You are told that there is a world out there in which someone like you, [with] a burning desire to become successful, can succeed. You go all the way... You change the way you look, how you walk, how you talk. And then, bracing for glory or nothing, you dive into your dream world.” Two days before we meet, Rao had waltzed into the ballroom at the Taj Lands End Mumbai to pick up another trophy: this time, as the Rulebreaker at the 2019 GQ Style & Culture Awards. He turned up in head-to-toe casual cream Dior co-ords and a pair of sunglasses that seemed inspired by The Matrix’s Neo. “Very savvy,” the internet declared. Yet, under all this gloss and sheen he’s acquired, Rao insists on staying grounded. And he does this by following the mantra of #neverforget: “I faced a lot of rejection in the beginning, and I met a lot of people who didn’t have faith in me – but I’d arrived with no Plan B. I remember standing outside Shah Rukh Khan’s house for hours, just to get a glimpse of him.”
ut there’s no sense of vindictiveness about Rao; these are all “lessons to be grateful for.” He remains determined to participate in the kind of cinema he hopes will be counted in the same breath as the great Hrishikesh Mukherjee’s body of work: the kind that entertains and educates in equal measure. “Cinema has that power to influence people, to bring some awareness. It can give you the power to question things. “See, I don’t have inhibitions,” he says, “and I like to change things up fast and keep it fresh. I’d love to do a proper action film.” A Rohit Shetty blowout? “Maybe. I am trained in martial arts, I still practise Tae Kwon Do. But there has to be a story behind why we’re beating people up. We have to keep things as real as possible.” Rao’s eyebrows, which might be the secret to his super versatile powers, arch in earnest. “I just know I’ve got to listen to my gut, to act, to do. Do my bit, and do it for the right reasons.”
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Alex Sanchez is simplifying pizza further at his brand new Mumbai restaurant Americano WRITTEN BY ARUN JANARDHAN
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANURAG BANERJEE
Driving alone in winter in Alba, Italy, and left to his own thoughts in the land of truffles and Barolo, Alex Sanchez felt slightly depressed. He was cold and lonely, but he also realised something. “This is what I want. Not to be depressed – but the simple life,” he remembers. “I don’t want awards, attention, and I don’t want to put my efforts into embellishments, but into things I believe in and enjoy,” says Sanchez, who was in Italy a few years ago in between jobs. Back in Mumbai, the former chef of The Table, a much-decorated restaurant known for its small and large plates and innovative cuisine, put that thought 134 —
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into action. His new Italian restaurant, Americano, in Kala Ghoda – which he opened in March with his partner Mallyeka Watsa – took that impulse further, and is Sanchez’s tribute to simplicity. For instance, he will not remove the humble roast chicken from the menu, even if nobody orders it. On a Friday evening in early April, Americano buzzes with a mix of expats and locals, drawn in by the culinary legend of Sanchez, and the curiosity that any new outlet in the city evokes. Behind the counter of the open kitchen, with a pencil tucked behind his ear, the bespectacled Sanchez dresses dishes with an outwardly calm that masks the stress of running a new venture in a neighbourhood spilling over with restaurant options. Americano, a name inspired by the first Camparibased cocktail made (besides the “A” that indicates “Alex has arrived”), uses minimalistic décor, with custommade cutlery, denim napkins and a focused attention on cocktails. Its pizzas and pastas are uncomplicated, while Sanchez’s play on flavours shows in the starters. For example, the seabass crudo, sprinkled with chopped capers, pine nuts, some zest and juice, fruity Espelette pepper from France, chives which give pungency and balsamic vinegar, has an “acid-pop (quality) from citrus juice and earthiness from the capers” that’s unique. “I don’t enjoy fine dining or tasting menus,” Sanchez says, “though it’s part of my DNA as a cook. I like giving people something that appears to be mediocre and them being blown away by the simplicity of it. I have never been happier in a kitchen than I am now. “I asked myself: Why am I forcing myself to do these contrived dishes when what makes me happy is a crispy roast potato? I guarantee that mine are better than anyone else’s because I obsess over them.” Sanchez version 2.0 (or 3.0 if you consider that he took a sabbatical while at The Table as well) is fulfilling a childhood dream of running a restaurant. As a five-year-old, the son of a pastry chef wanted to be a restaurateur without realising the amount of rigour and long hours it takes. Now, having worked in Mumbai for close to a decade, he feels the time has come to be his own boss. The Table, which opened eight years ago, gave him instant fame and recognition, but had its own repercussions. Sanchez took time off some years later to go to New York, learn something new and reset. “I was about to turn 30 (in 2015) and if I didn’t do it then, I may have never done it. I don’t think I needed to, but it was out of insecurity. I don’t know if
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"I like giving people something that appears to be mediocre and them being blown away by the simplicity of it. I have never been happier in a kitchen than I am now" I believed how good people thought I was. I know I’m not the best chef and didn’t need to feel that, but too many awards had come too quickly,” says Sanchez, who still hasn’t recovered from how successful his zucchini pasta, a dish he does not want to be associated with at The Table, is. “I just needed to get yelled at, beat up and brought down to earth.” The new version of the former San Francisco resident is more versatile. As a partner in Americano, he’s involved in selecting cushion covers and paint colours as much as in management and supplies. He’s getting better at managing his kitchen and staff as well. 136 —
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Clockwise from top left: Alex Sanchez hard at work; A classic Margherita pizza; Americano at Kala Ghoda
“I think of myself as a good person but I don’t think the way I behaved in the kitchen [in the past] matched that,” he says, sitting at a table at Americano late in the afternoon as his staff gears up for dinner service. There’s intense activity in the background: Grinders are setting off, dishes are clanking, many huddle in conversations while Sanchez, in a dark T-shirt, stays focused on this conversation. “We’re working hard in this restaurant. I have not lost my cool, not used profanities. I came to a realisation that there is some disconnect in hospitality; in taking care of your guests but treating your staff like shit. I’m cooking the best food in my life. The team is empowered to take that vision forward. They’re making decisions, not out of fear, but independently. Sometimes, the best lessons are what not to do.” He is aware of the expectations, which he says will wear off once The Table association fades in people’s memories, to be replaced by that of Americano. “For my entire career, I have worked at the station as a cook or in the kitchen as chef. Now I am dealing with recipe development, getting people reservations and making sure the place is a success financially. I am not in the kitchen as much as I would like to be, though,” says Sanchez, who started his career making sandwiches with meticulously well-spread mustard and mayonnaise in a corner liquor store in SF. While Americano is currently open only for dinner, plans are on to extend it to lunchtime. The menu will evolve from its current small, starter version. It may open in the mornings as well for those looking for a contemplative coffee and pastry. There could well be an “adult” brunch that becomes a blowout too. Sanchez’s challenge right now, though, is the music playlist, because there aren’t enough songs. “I’m going crazy at the repetition of the same stupid songs. I wake up in the middle of the night humming songs I don’t like,” he says, half in jest. If the only complaints he continues to hear are how rudimentary some of the dishes are, he isn’t concerned, but glad that his intention is being expressed clearly. “We may not change the game,” he adds, “but [we want to] make you come back. It’s the difference between fine dining and something more casual. We want to create something for the people and not for my ego as a chef.”
GQ’S ULTIMATE GROOMING GUIDE FOR 2019 IS HERE
GOODLIFE THE DESTINATION
PALACES DE FRANCE | France
Atout France and the 25 Palaces de France properties are showing the world why this country’s the godfather of grandeur and hospitality: A new collection of videos showcases the latter’s many excellent palace-hotels – including Cheval Blanc Courchevel, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, Hôtel du CapEden-Roc and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. You may not be able to call yourself a guest at every single one of these palaces (given your non-lord status), but at the very least you’ll be able to enjoy the visuals on your screen at home. C’est incroyable! france.fr/ en/news/article/discoverpalaces-france
TASTE ALL THAT MATTERS THIS MONTH
THE BRAND
VALCUCINE | Ahmedabad
THE RESTAURANT
TRES | Delhi
When the menu of a restaurant includes smoked duck breast, baked courgette, Belgian pork belly and goat cheese bavaroise (all IGworthy, of course), you should treat yourself to its rich and unforgettable flavours. Fine dine restaurant TRES serves up these winning dishes (and more) at its pretty Lodhi Market location in the capital. And to tease your evolved palate just a little more, ask for the chicken liver ice-cream. 84486 99586 138 —
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THE HOTEL
THE TIMES SQUARE EDITION New York
The next time you’re in the Big Apple, check into the newly minted The Times Square EDITION: a 452-room luxury boutique hotel from Ian Schrager and Marriott International. Feast at any of its six dining venues overseen by Michelin-starred chef John Fraser, check out the onsite cabaret performance space. And don’t leave without taking in the sweeping view of Times Square – and the surrounding concrete jungle where dreams are made of – from the hotel’s rooftop lounge. editionhotels.com/times-square/
WORDS: JEENA J BILLIMORIA. IMAGE: NIALL CLUTTON (PALACES DE FRANCE)
Premium kitchen brand Valcucine has opened a 200sqm experience centre in Ahmedabad, boasting an impressive selection of kitchen units. Keep your eye out for the V-Motion kitchen system that operates with manual gestures, as well as the Valcucine Academy area that gives you intel on what makes a kitchen baller. Especially if you’re the type to turn into Jamie Oliver on weekends. 90819 04503
THE CR AFTSMANSHIP ISSUE AD’s most collectible cover yet is designed by Vincent Van Duysen, with hand embroidery and cashmere appliqué by Max Modesti, on sustainable cotton from Himêya
MAY-JUNE ISSUE ON STANDS NOW
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Kicking into high gear Jasprit Bumrah is keeping his eye firmly on the ball
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How to keep in shape, according to Jasprit Bumrah “There are no shortcuts in the game. You have to go through the grind, work hard in the gym, on the field and do all your preparations right – be it your diet or your workout. Only then will you perform.” TRUTH BOMB
“I have to run a lot, but I prefer power workouts at the gym.” GO-TO WORKOUT
“If you’ve got the right cushioning and balance in your shoes, you’ll be able to maintain your posture, which is a key element with running. The one I wear quite a lot these days are the ASICS Gel-540TRs. They’re really comfortable, and I’ve even converted them into my bowling shoes.” THE RUNNING SHOE
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Jasprit Bumrah has just been recognised. He’s been ambling around South Mumbai’s empty streets all morning, enjoying the clothes we’ve styled him in: elegant, relaxed suits, unconventional kicks. Then, on the grand steps of the Asiatic Library, someone spots him. Soon enough, a crowd has gathered, waiting patiently for a sign that the GQ photographer is done, so they can rush forward for a selfie. He can’t escape the throng entirely, but his small entourage of managers and bodyguards manage to extract him a few minutes later, without too much fuss. We’re two days out until the 2019 IPL season kicks off, and the 25-year-old Mumbai Indians pacer doesn’t have much downtime thanks to the league’s ever-growing rigmarole of appearances: interviews, green-screen shoots, fan engagement, endorsement obligations. Squeezed in between it all is what he’s actually here for: cricket. “I’ve gotten to play with Mitchell Johnson, whom I’ve always admired,” he shares later that afternoon in his
"I’m taking it one match at a time. We have a job to do in the IPL.When we get to England, we’ll have a job to do there"
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hotel room. After an MI team meeting and photoshoot that ran long, he’s eager to relax, but has to get through this interview with me first. “I learned about having the right mindset and aggression on the field from him.” The Aussie may not be his teammate any more, but Lasith “Slinga” Malinga is back on the squad after a year off, and Yuvraj Singh has landed in Mumbai for his first season with MI. “I’m excited to have Yuvraj here – we’re good friends, since we’ve played on the national team together. Both he and Malinga have so much experience, and I can learn a lot from them.” To hear the pundits tell it, Jasprit Bumrah is a bona fide national treasure: crucial to Team India’s plans to win the ICC World Cup, which kicks off at the end of this month. He’s also one of the IPL’s biggest homegrown successes, discovered by Mumbai Indians scouts back in 2013. Since then, he’s honed his craft, particularly those pinpoint yorkers that tend to make batsmen nervous, and cemented his reputation as a death overs specialist. His unconventional bowling style has also gone viral, literally – mimicked by aspiring young cricketers the world over on videos shared by the millions on social media. In 2016, the year he made his international debut, against Australia, he took the most wickets in T20Is. While playing a pivotal role in India’s historic win Down Under in 2018, he also broke the record for most wickets taken in overseas Tests by an Indian bowler in a single year. All of which has put him at the top of ICC bowler rankings, and made him one of the country’s highest-paid cricketers – in the same tier as Rohit Sharma and Virat Kohli. Does he consider himself India’s X-factor, then, I ask, those pundits in mind. I also mention that he’s on GQ’s IPL fantasy team, and he looks surprised, then a bit delighted. But, “I’ve been playing [international cricket] for three years now, so I don’t think that’s the case any more!” For now, Bumrah’s concentrating on the action at home. “I always live in the present, so I’m taking it one match at a time. We have a job to do here [in the IPL]. When we get to England, we’ll have a job to do there. I’m not thinking about the World Cup right now – my first focus is on each IPL game.” Watch him perform for MI so far this IPL season (11 wickets in 10 matches, 111 dot balls at the time of going to print) and his statement seems to be true: He doesn’t seem to be carrying any baggage from his last big international stage performance – when he took a wicket off a no-ball of the man who would score a century, and India lost the 2017 ICC Champions Trophy Final. He believes he’s ready for England and Wales: “We played England there last year, so we learned a lot about the conditions, and we know what to watch for now,” he says. “We’ve also played [almost] all our opponents recently, which has helped us understand our own game better. It will come in handy when we’re under pressure.” Game on. MAY 2019
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THE T20 WISH LIST The evolution of cricket has been in the fast lane, succumbing over the years to the demands of television, shorter attention spans and the need to popularise the sport globally. How would the rock stars of yesteryear have fared in the slap-dash version of the game that is T20? We’re pretty sure they’d have killed it W RIT TEN BY TANMOY MOOKHER JEE
KRIS SRIKKANTH OPENING BATSMAN A career spanning over a decade saw this swashbuckling opening batsman tear into bowling attacks at his peak, and rack up a strike rate of over 70 in international cricket. Srikkanth was lauded as one of India’s heroes in the 1983 World Cup-winning team, taking the attack to the opposition at a time when Indian batsmanship was all about being correct and obdurate. His approach, though, was wildly different: hooking, cutting and pulling his way out of trouble against the fearsome fast bowlers of the 1980s. If you saw videos of India winning the 1983 World Cup, you’d see Srikkanth somewhere in the frame, celebrating with a cigarette in his hand, without a care in the world – just the way he batted.
GORDON GREENIDGE In 1974, a young opener walked out for the first time ever for the West Indies. He scored 93 and 107 against India in that Test, and, by the time he finished his career in 1991, had 18 more Test centuries to his name. Greenidge played right when One-Day cricket arrived, averaging under and over 45 in both formats respectively – great even by modern standards. His finest hour though was cracking 214* in a target of 342 on the final day of a 1984 Test at Lord’s, showing little respect for Bob Willis and Ian Botham and helping to propel the Windies to a 5-0 sweep over England that summer. With his attacking intent and watertight technique, just imagine Greenidge maximising a T20 powerplay. 144 —
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IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES
OPENING BATSMAN
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POWERPLAY JONTY RHODES BATSMAN While Rhodes played six T20s before retiring, we never saw his genius in full in this format. He’s perhaps the only cricketer known more for his ability at backward point rather than with the bat. The South African often powered his team to victory during difficult run chases in both Tests and ODIs, even if he wasn’t quite the big 6-hitter we associate modern-day finishers with. But his greatest strength lay on the field, often stopping 30 runs all by himself. He was Mumbai Indians’ first fielding coach, but we would’ve preferred to see him alongside Kieron Pollard on the field.
ARAVINDA DE SILVA ALL-ROUNDER He was one of the catalysts of Sri Lankan cricket reaching the pinnacle of greatness in the mid-1990s, just about a decade after they became an authorised Test nation. In fact, de Silva cut a towering figure for someone with a diminutive frame. Divine on the backfoot and destructive square of the wicket, he entered the cricketing pantheons with a century in the 1996 World Cup Final, 15,000 international runs and an ODI strike rate of over 81 after 308 games. A canny off-spinner who famously took three wickets in that Final in Lahore as well, he would make the perfect No 4 in today’s T20 squads.
DIPAK PATEL
CURTLY AMBROSE
SPINNER
FAST BOWLER
If you think Harbhajan Singh, Sunil Narine or Ravichandran Ashwin opening the bowling is new, think again. The 1992 World Cup – the genesis of colourful uniforms, white balls and television replays to determine run outs – was also the first time we saw a spinner start an innings, thanks to Dipak Patel. The New Zealand off-spinner did so with élan, often getting his team early breakthroughs on their excellent, if unprecedented run to the Semi-Final. He was an accomplished batsman too, and could be relied upon in a pinch – he was once run out on 99 in what would have been his first, and only, Test century.
He was perhaps the last great West Indian fast bowler, but what a bowler. “Curtly talk to no man” was his motto, which disappointed the hundreds of commentators looking for a post-match interview. At 6 feet 7 inches, the sight of Ambrose running in has to be one of the scariest, followed closely by his bouncers and yorkers. With an ODI economy rate of under 3.6 and 630 international wickets, he wasn’t looking just to “restrict”. He never liked getting hit for boundaries, and you wouldn’t want to make Ambrose angry. Just ask Dean Jones, who once told him to remove his white sweatbands – and faced the fastest spell of bowling ever after that.
DENNIS LILLEE WICKETKEEPER-BATSMAN The New Zealand wicketkeeperbatsman is just as good opening as he is batting lower down the order. For someone who came in at No 7 or lower for most of his career, Smith’s ODI strike rate of nearly 100 is phenomenal. In a 1990 Test against India in Auckland, he came in at No 9, his team on the brink of being bowled out for a paltry total, and smashed 173 off 136 balls to get them out of trouble. The Brendon McCullums of Blackcaps cricket have grown up on the memories left behind by Smith: the archetypal dogged wicketkeeperbatsman of today’s game. 146 —
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FAST BOWLER Lillee’s record in both Tests and ODIs was exceptional, and like Ambrose, he was the quintessential fast bowler: tall, strapping, brooding, running in and sending down thunderbolts. It was also the image he built, of staring down batsmen, often giving lip, his flowing long hair and moustache a style for the ages. Lillee was one of Australian cricket’s original bad boys, and could make McGrath, Warner, Johnson and others look like saints. We can count on his spats with batsmen on the field for entertaining cricket.
IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES
IAN SMITH
BS CHANDRASEKHAR SPINNER Rashid Khan, meet your rival. Bhagwat Chandrasekhar turned his polio-stricken right arm into a wicket-taking machine, and was often regarded as India’s greatest match-winner – before Anil Kumble came along. Chandra and Kumble both bowled fast leg-breaks that hardly turned but spat up on the batsman trying to smother the ball. But Chandra edges over his teammate in his role as the architect of India’s first series victory abroad: England 1971. He also fashioned more such wins in an era when Indian spinners were the envy of the world. We dare say he’d be gunning for the IPL’s Purple Cap every season.
VIV RICHARDS CAPTAIN The art of batting can be clearly broken into pre-Richards and post-Richards eras: from quiet, technical, correct and stubborn to aggressive, attacking, free-flowing and hard-hitting. Richards made his Test debut with Gordon Greenidge against India, and went on to become one of the best players to have ever held a bat. The image of Richards walking on, gum in his mouth, surveying the parts of the ground he was going to pepper with boundaries, is cricket’s version of Clint Eastwood. He made his ODI debut in the inaugural Cricket World Cup, which the West Indies won, and then helped them win the next one. He would have won the 1983 Final against India on his own, too – until his wicket sparked the biggest upset in cricketing history. With no fear of fast bowling – he never wore a helmet, and played well into the 1990s – modern batsmen like Matthew Hayden and Chris Gayle have taken after him. Take T20 back to the 1980s and Sir Viv will show you how it’s done.
IAN BOTHAM ALL-ROUNDER The original rock star of English cricket, Botham was a trailblazer for many modern-day all-rounders: a genuine fast bowler, a middle-order batsman of incredible strength and brute force, a gun fielder. Top all that up with his penchant for the fast life – the booze, the smoke, the ladies – and he would’ve fit right into T20 today. He made more headlines in his prime than English footballers – he was once banned for taking cannabis – but could decide games and series on his own. Andrew Flintoff and Ben Stokes owe much of their cricketing lineage to Beefy.
MARTIN CROWE THE 12TH MAN The modern era of great New Zealand batsmen like Ross Taylor and Kane Williamson must have grown up with memories of the late Crowe elegantly taking bowling attacks apart and leading his side almost all the way in the 1992 World Cup. His innovative leadership – opening the bowling with a spinner, promoting a pinch hitter to start the innings – is a template captains have followed since. If this team needed a replacement, Crowe would fit right in and lead, just like Williamson does for Sunrisers Hyderabad today. MAY 2019
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all in for the world cup Reputations, winning streaks and one shiny trophy are all at stake as the 2019 ICC Cricket World Cup begins on the very last day of this month. Here’s how the teams stack up
Australia
WINNERS 1987, 1999, 2003, 2007, 2015
England
FINALISTS 1979, 1987, 1992
India
WINNERS 1983, 2011
The two-time champions are currently the second-best team (behind only the hosts) in the ICC ODI rankings. Virat Kohli will be the most important player here, his form going a long way in determining India’s fate. While the playing conditions don’t exactly favour our men in blue, they have won ICC trophies in England before. The main concern? Their form in 2019, with losses to New Zealand and Australia. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Virat Kohli, Rohit Sharma, Jasprit Bumrah PREDICTED FINISH: Finalists
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Perhaps for the first time ever, England start the World Cup as favourites. They’re a perfectly balanced mix of hard-hitting batsmen and pace bowlers, and there’s little, at least on paper, to criticise – especially with the “Fab Four”, Joe Root, Jos Buttler, Jonny Bairstow and Eoin Morgan, in excellent form. Much as we hate to say it, they’re our pick for the win. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Joe Root, Jos Buttler, Chris Woakes PREDICTED FINISH: Winners
West Indies
WINNERS 1975, 1979
The sun may finally be shining on the Caribbean islands after a long time. Young prospects like Shimron Hetmyer and Oshane Thomas, backed by new interim coach Floyd Reifer, could become star turners. There are also very few players in the world right now who can have a bigger impact than Chris Gayle. Definitely see them upsetting a few big boys – if they can keep things consistent, a very real weakness in recent years. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Chris Gayle, Shimron Hetmyer, Shai Hope PREDICTED FINISH: Likely SemiFinalists
New Zealand FINALISTS 2015
New Zealand got unlucky in the 2015 Final, and are looking for redemption. Theyʼve managed to retain the same core group from that tournament, with players like Martin Guptill, Ross Taylor and skipper Kane Williamson who could easily put a lot of runs on the board. But, their bowling still remains undercooked. Trent Boult is their only big threat, and even he has quite a few off days. While batsmen win you matches, it’s bowlers that win you tournaments, which keeps the chances of a Kiwi victory low. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Martin Guptill, Ross Taylor, Trent Boult PREDICTED FINISH: Outside chance of making it to the semi-finals
WORDS: ABHISHEK NAIR. IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES (CRICKET PLAYERS). SHUTTERSTOCK (FLAGS), CRICKET WEST INDIES (WEST INDIES LOGO)
Virat Kohli
The defending champions are coming off back-toback away series victories against India and Pakistan. They’ve got a lethal pace attack, and a strong top order in Usman Khawaja and Aaron Finch. Glenn Maxwell may be in excellent form, but the rest of the middle order is still unpredictable, and could be the Kangaroos’ Achilles heel. There are also so many players battling for the 11 spots, including the newly returned Steve Smith and David Warner, that getting the balance right will be a big challenge on the road to a record sixth trophy. PLAYERS TO WATCH: David Warner, Pat Cummins, Glenn Maxwell PREDICTED FINISH: SemiFinalists
POWERPLAY South Africa
SEMI-FINALISTS 1992, 1999, 2007, 2015
Chris Gayle
Sri Lanka WINNERS 1996
It’s remarkable how Sri Lankan cricket has declined since 2011. Sri Lanka haven’t won a bilateral ODI series in two years: their lowest point was in 2017, when a visiting Zimbabwe beat them 3-2 in a five-ODI series. The team’s also been plagued with allegations of corruption and match-fixing recently, and are pretty much a mess heading into the World Cup. If there’s any hope, it’s in players like Kusal Perera and Lasith Malinga. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Kusal Perera, Lasith Malinga PREDICTED FINISH: Will be lucky if they win a game in England
Pakistan WINNERS 1992
Pakistan have always been a team to watch out for in the World Cup. But, due to poor management from their cricket board, they haven’t played enough international fixtures in the lead-up to the tournament, and the team that looked super confident after winning the Champions Trophy in 2017 has since underperformed. There are a handful of players that can easily win a match on their day, though this time, like always, they will rely on their fast bowlers. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Babar Azam, Usman Khan Shinwari, Imam-ulHaq PREDICTED FINISH: Likely to miss out on a semifinals spot
South Africa could have won at least two World Cups by now. Making their tournament debut in 1992, they surprised everyone when they reached the SemiFinals. Since then, however, the Proteas have never managed to go beyond the penultimate round. For 2019, Kagiso Rabada and Dale Steyn spearhead their pace attack, their biggest strength. The challenge however will be for their batting to step up – right now, on paper, it’s uninspiring. And, with many members playing their first World Cup, they’ll be depending heavily on some of the big names. They open the tournament against the hosts on May 30. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Kagiso Rabada, Dale Steyn, Quinton de Kock PREDICTED FINISH: Semi-finals is a tough ask
Bangladesh
QUARTER-FINALS 2007, 2015
Bangladesh have grown by leaps and bounds since their days of being minnows in international cricket. They knocked England out of the 2015 World Cup and even qualified for the semi-final and final of the Champions Trophy and Asia Cup respectively. But terribly inconsistent performances and a growing list of injuries are the biggest roadblocks for them right now. If they can overcome all that, batsmen Mushfiqur Rahim, Liton Das and Tamim Iqbal could make them surprise contenders. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Mushfiqur Rahim, Tamim Iqbal PREDICTED FINISH: Could upset the order of things and make it to the semi-finals
Afghanistan GROUP STAGE 2015
Afghanistan may be playing only their second World Cup, but they’re not lacking in confidence. In last year’s Asia Cup, they racked up victories over Sri Lanka and Pakistan, and even tied against eventual winners India. Officially the underdogs this tournament, they could struggle because of the conditions. Luckily, players like Rashid Khan, Mohammad Nabi and Mujeeb Ur Rahman have racked up key global experience. In fact, Afghanistan could bring the drama by taking down some of the big teams. PLAYERS TO WATCH: Rashid Khan, Mohammad Nabi, Asghar Afghan PREDICTED FINISH: Could shock a few teams
Jos Buttler
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FITNESS
e y e n O lls u b e h t
When it comes to fitness, Manavaditya Singh Rathore, one of India’s budding talents in trap shooting, plays by his own rules
How did you get into trap shooting? I was 12 years old when I fired my first shot, back in 2012. My father was mildly surprised because not only could I lift his heavy gun, I’d also managed to shoot a target with it. You’ve accomplished a fair bit in such a short time. What keeps you motivated? I think it’s the love for this sport. I don’t treat it like work, I do it because I love it. Every time I walk into the sports arena, I feel the same adrenalin 150 —
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INTERVIEW: MEGHANA GANESHAN. PHOTO: MAYANK MUDNANEY. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY.
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anavaditya Singh Rathore is steadily proving that he’s a force to be reckoned with. With talent he’s clearly inherited from his father, Rajyavardhan Singh Rathore (former Olympic silver medallist and current Minister of State for the Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports), coupled with determination and hard work, the junior trap shooter has already won his fair share of accolades: including a bronze medal at the National Championship in 2012 (he was the youngest medalist in the Under-21 category), a silver in the International Junior World Cup in 2013, a gold in the 2014 Asian Championship and a silver in the 2017 World Championship. Most recently, he competed in the Junior World Cup in Italy, and now has his sights on Tokyo 2020 – and he’s all of 20.
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FITNESS of bulking up, though, because we require a dancer’s body, one that’s supple. I look up to Akshay Kumar for fitness inspiration since he’s one of the fittest actors in Bollywood.
And what about your diet? I believe that as long as you’re getting your daily dose of exercise, you should be able to eat what you want. I’m a huge foodie, and work out so I can indulge in my favourite foods but, for the most part, my diet is healthy, home-cooked meals. There’s nothing I restrict myself from, except sweets – they’re my weakness. I also love to cook.
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rush a young teenager might feel when he picks up a PlayStation controller. Every achievement, every competition I win or perform well in, helps me move forward. How fit do you need to be for trap shooting? Shooting as a sport doesn’t require you to follow a specific fitness regime, since you’re just standing in one position. Mostly, it’s your abdominal muscles at work, so it’s essential to have a strong core. Like every other teenager, I want to keep myself fit – not to the point 152 —
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"being in the moment is extremely important. before i enter the arena, i focus on what lies ahead, to eliminate any negative thoughts"
Physical training aside, how do you train yourself mentally? Yoga’s very good for that; I meditate, which helps me concentrate. But more than anything, for a shooter or any other sportsperson, being in the moment is extremely important. Before I enter the shooting arena, I focus on what lies ahead, to eliminate any negative thoughts and performance pressure. Since your subconscious is already trained to do what you need, all that’s left is to live in the moment. What is your advice on fitness for non-athletes? I think what we fail to realise is that bulking up is not always the right approach. In the long run, it’ll only affect your body, because it reduces your mobility. I’d say, just get outdoors and play. That’s good enough to keep you fit, help you lead a healthy lifestyle and be content.
INTERVIEW: MEGHANA GANESHAN. PHOTO: MAYANK MUDNANEY. STYLIST: SELMAN FAZIL. ASSISTANT STYLIST: SHAEROY CHINOY.
What’s your workout regime like? I love the gym because the atmosphere is so good – it’s quite boring to work out at home, and I avoid it unless I’m short on time. I also don’t lift weights at all. It’s mostly cardio, leg raises, ab workouts, push-ups, pull-ups, crunches, planks and calisthenics. There’s no specific routine – I just do whatever I’m in the mood for. I also love working out in my backyard, and run on a regular basis. When I’m travelling, I usually carry a TRX band with me so I can exercise in my hotel room.
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He’s the barrier-blurring king of Latin trap – and one of the most streamed artists on Earth. But Bad Bunny is way more than merely popular. We go to Puerto Rico to meet the most forward-looking pop star on the planet PHOTOGRAPHED BY JASON NOCITO WRITTEN BY ISABELIA HERRERA STYLED BY MOBOLAJI DAWODU
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he comes home to Puerto Rico, the very first thing Bad Bunny likes to do is fuck. He tells me this in low, whispered Spanish – chingar, he says, deploying local slang. The statement hardly surprises. I mean, this is a guy who introduced himself to the world a couple of years ago on SoundCloud with the song “Diles”, a sexual paean about repetitive copulation, about fogging up car windows, about knowing a woman’s preferred positions in bed. He starts cackling, a single gold hoop jiggling in his left earlobe. He’s (mostly) kidding, he assures me. It’s the kind of playful provocation that makes Benito Antonio Martínez Ocasio so captivating, and he isn’t ashamed to revel in it. The truth is, when he comes home, he’s more Benito than Bad Bunny. His notoriously painted nails, typically lacquered in pineapple yellow or jet black (depending on his mood), are today uncoloured. He’s letting them breathe; the gel manicures can leave them brittle, he says. No, the riotous rapper who’s spent the past year utterly transforming Spanish-language music – becoming an omnipresent fixture on the global pop soundscape and something of an outspoken social critic – downshifts considerably when he returns home. He prefers to do pretty much what any other 25-year-old might. “I lay down and I sleep the whole day,” he tells me. “I watch movies. And later, after that, I go visit my mom,” he says in that unmistakable, acrobatic bassoon of a voice. Just days earlier, that voice had been the key attraction in Las Vegas, at Calibash, the massive concert series highlighting Spanish-language pop’s biggest stars. He’s a few weeks away from kicking off a major spring tour, but for now Bad Bunny is home and in a rare state of semi-repose. Seated in an outof-the-way corner of a tiny beachfront restaurant in San Juan’s Ocean Park neighbourhood, he’s traded his famously flamboyant stage style – a wardrobe heavy on cat-eye sunglasses, colourful prints and Baroque Gucci suits – for an understated off-duty look. He’s sporting a pair of faded blue jeans and a denim shirt over a WWE tee, seeming not much like the guy plastered across gargantuan billboards on San Juan’s Baldorioty de Castro expressway, his tongue out, his pinkies under his eyes: his signature Conejo Malo (Bad Bunny) pose. His attention-grabbing style has been strategic – a way to stand out. “When I arrived, at first a lot of people were like, ‘This kid is different’,” he says. “I’d go to the studio with short shorts and flip-flops, and they’d say, ‘Cabrón, what’s wrong with you?!’ It was always a point of discussion.” 170
His look has a lot in common with his music. His dexterous wit and weirdo sensibility got him quickly anointed as the golden boy of Latin trap – a genre in which Dominican, Puerto Rican and other LatinAmerican artists have re-imagined the rap sounds pioneered in Atlanta. But today, Bad Bunny is much more than the face of a once polemic genre; he’s now one of the foremost global ambassadors for Música Urbana, the catchall label used to describe Spanishlanguage hip-hop, reggaeton and other styles. In 2018, urbano was – far and away – the most viewed genre on YouTube. Of the platform’s ten most popular music videos, eight were created by, or featured, urbano artists. And notably, Bad Bunny appeared on the No 1 track. Naturally, it was only a matter of time before american artists, eager to tap into the movement and attract new audiences, came flocking. They’ve found a willing creative partner in Bad Bunny, who’s been more than happy to provide his full-throated baritone to radio smashes and remixes the world over. Last year he collaborated on English-language hits with the likes of Cardi B (“I Like It”), Drake (“Mia”) and a slew of others. In fact, Bad Bunny has lately appeared so often, on so many of the world’s biggest songs, that it seems almost impossible that his own first full-length album appeared only this past December. The album, called X100PRE (meaning por siempre, or “forever” in English), dropped on Christmas Eve and included everything from ukulele riffs to emo-rap missives to mutant trapchata beats. For listeners who had largely known him for his club and radio hits, the album might have seemed like a departure, like a grand and experimental statement. “I was super prepared for that first impact and for people to be confused,” he says. “But just as I was prepared, I had a lot of faith that, in the end, people would understand me.” And it seems they did: X100PRE easily summited Billboard’s Top Latin Albums chart, occupying the No 1 spot for six weeks straight. “When I was making this record, they told me, ‘But we don’t have a commercial track’,” he remembers. Of course, he says, he wasn’t trying to fit in with the cookie-cutter songs on the radio. He wanted something new and different. “I’ve always said, ‘Cabrón, on radio stations, they play some porquería [trash] songs’.” he says. “You listen to the radio and all the songs sound the same, from eight in the morning to 12.”
he last time I met Benito, about a year-and-ahalf earlier, he was in a different place. He’d rolled up to our interview in clout goggles and a psychedelic floral Supreme long-sleeve tee. He was scarfing down slices of pepperoni pizza and boasting about all the collabs and remixes he had in the works with English-language artists.
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BLAZER BY GUCCI. SHIRT BY JOHN ELLIOTT. TROUSERS BY RALPH LAUREN. SHOES BY DUNHILL. SUNGLASSES BY PERSOL GROOMING: KUMI CRAIG HAIR: CHRISTOPHER VARGAS PRODUCTION: LOUISE LUND/STUDIO LOU
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He had audacious plans. Sure enough, over the course of the next 12 months, he’d drop songs with a pantheon of major-label american acts: Nicki Minaj, 21 Savage, Travis Scott, Future, Will Smith, Jennifer Lopez and, of course, Drake and Cardi B. Bad Bunny’s ascent has been wild and rapid. Just three years ago, Benito was bagging groceries at a local Econo Supermarket in his home of Vega Baja. He’d been writing and making original music since he was 13, nurturing a deep appreciation of the elder statesmen of Puerto Rican rap and reggaeton such as Daddy Yankee and Vico C, but also studying the Latin American salsa vocalists and balladeers, like Héctor Lavoe and Juan Gabriel. It was a wellspring of influences that shaped the versatile sentimentality of his own voice – he’s capable of both wailing about the anguish of a broken heart and rapping viciously about stealing your girl. Eventually, as a communications student at the University of Puerto Rico’s Arecibo campus, he started uploading tracks to SoundCloud. The aforementioned “Diles” caught the ear of a prominent Puerto Rican producer and label head named DJ Luian, who helped kick an elaborate release plan into high gear. Soon, Bad Bunny was dropping singles and videos on a near-weekly basis to guarantee his omnipresence on YouTube and commandeer the platform’s algorithm in Latin America. In the quick years since, Bad Bunny’s everexpanding position within the Latinx music industry has made him a major voice on a range of social issues, too. The week before we met in San Juan, Benito dropped a video for “Caro”, a cut from X100PRE, that mushroomed into the latest Bad Bunny-prompted conversation about gender identity and masculinity in the urbano world. The video featured a runway show starring a drag queen, as well as the Puerto Rican model Jazmyne Joy playing a female proxy for Bad Bunny, getting her nails painted, donning a pair of neon green sunglasses and lounging on a Ferrari convertible. It was just the latest instance of Bad Bunny exploring femme aesthetics. Detractors have condemned him for promoting “sexual deviance”, but fans have showered him with praise for embracing gender fluidity and for speaking out – on everything from the virtues of women who don’t shave their pubic hair, to the prejudices of a nail salon in Spain that refused him service, to homophobia in the urbano movement. At times, the praise has verged on celebrity worship, the oh-so-common lingua franca of the internet age, with fans portraying him as a “woke king” or a “feminist icon”. Considering the long history of artists around the world who have expanded the limits of masculine expression, and the queer pop stars who have challenged gender norms, Bad Bunny’s manicures are only mildly transgressive. He gets that. “There’s people that appreciate what I do; there’s people that criticise it,” he says. “There’s people who say, ‘Thank you for sticking up [for us], thank you
for defending [this]’. There’s others that say I’m an opportunist,” he says. He’s wary of having his work perceived as a colossal political gesture – but he’s just as wary of not utilising his voice on issues that matter. “If I were like other artists, I’d forget about what’s happening and not say anything,” he says. In September he used a performance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon to denounce the federal response to Hurricane Maria. “More than 3,000 people died,” he said on the show, “and Trump’s still in denial.” Grisly images of the storm flashed behind him on a screen. It was perhaps an early sign that Benito was interested in exploring not just the personal politics of his identity but the politics affecting his home. He’s since sounded off on Puerto Rican issues ranging from violence against women to contentious local school closures. “Three years ago, I was a citizen like anyone else, and I felt the country’s problems just like anyone else,” he says. “When the gas prices would go up, I’d scream about it like anyone else; when they’d raise the [expressway] tolls, I’d yell, too. I was broke enough that I depended on scholarships to be able to study. I see the problems up close, and they affect me just the same, because these are people I love.” Does that make him an activist? Not really, Benito says. It makes him a human being – a member of a community. “I think it’s my responsibility, as a person of influence – not just as an artist but as a person – to sometimes try to do what I can,” he says. “If I have the chance to say something, I will say it – but that doesn’t obligate me to always say something, or to shed light on every problem, as if I were a lawmaker.” When I ask Benito what’s next for him, a mischievous grin immediately creeps across his face and his eyes brighten. “We’re going to Hobby-loos!” he jokes, cupping my hand in his and erupting into laughter, referencing a recent viral video of Dominican performer Omega mispronouncing Hollywood. Apparently, acting has always been a dream of his. “I want to give it the time it deserves. A lot of artists fail when they try to act, and they flop,” he says. “So when I get into acting, it’s going to be to do it well, something good, something of quality. I want people to say, ‘Wow, that movie’ – or that show or whatever – ‘turned out really well’.” But for now, of course, the music predominates. The traditional trajectory for a mainstream Latinx artist like Bad Bunny might involve trying to conquer the american market, maybe via an English-language collaboration with a new Anglo artist – a timeworn, often gimmicky industry maneuver that Bad Bunny seems to have obliterated. “I think those pressures in music, I eliminated them,” he says. The frank assessment of a future that feels entirely wide open reminds me a lot of what he said when I asked him how his sense of style has evolved. He chuckles, contemplating the creative freedom he feels he’s earned: “At the beginning I did what I could. Now I do whatever I want.” 173
DESIGN SHOW S AV E T H E D AT E
Over three days in October last year, the biggest names in art, architecture and design could be found under one roof, at the first AD Design Show—a spectacular display of craft, design and artistry. This year, the AD Design Show is back in October with the best in art, craft and design from around the country—and the world. FOR ENQUIRIES, PLEASE CONTACT ADDESIGNSHOW@CONDENAST.IN
ANNOUNCING THE SECOND EDITION OF THE AD DESIGN SHOW
18 19 20
OCTOBER
DOME@NSCI, SVP STADIUM, WORLI, MUMBAI
The time-honoured, steadfast denim jean and jacket reimagined and roided up by the world’s biggest fashion players
PHOTOGR A PHED BY TAK AKI KUMADA ST YLED BY NAOKI IKEDA
176
THE
DENIM ISSUE
BLAZER, JUMPER, SHIRT, JEANS, SHOES, EYEWEAR, POUCH; ALL BY GUCCI
JUMPER, JEANS, SANDALS, HAT, BELT; ALL BY DOLCE & GABBANA
TRENCH COAT, PARKA, SHIRT, JEANS, SNEAKERS; ALL BY VALENTINO
JACKET, TROUSERS, SNEAKERS, CAP; ALL BY EMPORIO ARMANI
JACKET, TANK TOP, JOGGERS, SNEAKERS, SUNGLASSES; ALL BY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA HAIR & MAKE-UP: TOSHIHIKO SHINGU/VRAI FASHION DIRECTOR: NORIAKI MORIGUCHI
MEET INDIA'S MASTER COUTURIERS! Catch India’s leading fashion designers and their latest wedding collections, only at the Vogue Wedding Show 2019!
2-4 AUGUST, 2019 TAJ PALACE, NEW DELHI
TO REGISTER
visit vogue.in/vwsregistration or call +918657505223 / 224
BY INVITATION ONLY DISCLAIMER: DESIGNERS LIST SUBJECT TO CHANGE
GAURAV GUPTA
JADE BY MONI CA
K PEACOC I SHANE FALGUN
& KARISHMA
RAHUL MISH RA
RITU KUMAR ANI TARUN TAHILI
MANISH MALHOTRA
SABYA SACHI HIL & NIK ANU T N A SH
GQ ACCESS
Mitul Thakker
Sheetal Seth & Jayanti Choudhary
SUMMER OF STYLE WHAT: ColorPlus Summer '19 launch x GQ WHERE: ColorPlus store, Mumbai The ColorPlus flagship store in Khar, Mumbai sprung to life on the evening of April 14th when GQ collaborated with the fashion brand to unveil its Spring/Summer 2019 collection. Hashtagged #DressToUnwind and #IndulgeEffortlessly to channel an easy-going vibe, GQ stylists curated six looks – from casual Airport, Holiday and Sporty styles to more formal looks like “Mondays at Work”, “Morning to Evening” and “Friday Evenings”. This curation was then dramatically presented in a LIVE model display. But it was Dino Morea’s look, put together using separate elements, which stole the show. Dressed for a summer evening, he donned a navy blazer that was offset by a light blue shirt and pocket square, beige trousers and brown loafers – a unique combination that could very well replace the suit this season.
Holiday
Mondays at Work
ColorPlus x GQ
Dino Morea & Suman Saha
Dino speaking at the GQ masterclass
ColorPlus Summer '19
The ColorPlus store
Dino Morea
Bharatesh Suvarna
Airport
Vandana Ramkrishna
Sporty
Morning to Evening
Dhairyasheel
Friday Evenings
WHERE TO BUY The products featured editorially have been ordered from the following stores. Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press
A Adidas Originals Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4120 2306; Delhi, 011-4152 4433 Antar-Agni ujjawaldubey.com Armani Exchange Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4002 4412; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4168 0071 ASICS Mumbai, High Street Phoenix, 022-4004 2820; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4076 9068; Bengaluru, Phoenix Marketcity, 080-6726 6288
PHOTO: KENNETH LAM
B Bally Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4053 4149 BMW Mumbai, 022-6714 5100; Delhi, 011-4309 0000; Bengaluru, 080-2222 4544 Boglioli bogliolimilano.com Bombay Atelier bombayatelier.com Bombay Shaving Company bombayshavingcompany.com Breitling Mumbai, Times of Lord, 022-2369 5254; Delhi, Kapoor Watch Co., 011-4653 6667; Bengaluru, Rodeo Drive, 080-2227 1977 Burberry Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4080 1994; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4652 9850; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4173 8825 Burt’s Bees Available at Sephora C Calvin Klein Jeans Mumbai, 022-2648 4794; Delhi, 011-4108 9582; Bengaluru, 080-4098 6229 Cartier Mumbai, Art of Time, 88795 05003; Delhi, Kapoor Watch Co., 011-4134 5688; Bengaluru, Rodeo Drive, 080-4124 8471 Casio Mumbai, 022-2643 4636; Phoenix Mall, 93235 86906; Delhi, Kapoor Watch Co., 011-4134 5689 Christian Louboutin Mumbai, 022-4347 1787; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4101 7111 Church’s church-footwear.com Comme des Garçons comme-des-garcons.com Corneliani Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4604 0722; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4173 8170
D David Yurman davidyurman.com Diesel Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4004 6050; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4087 0072; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4173 8001 Dior Mumbai, 022-6749 9091; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4600 5900 Dior Men Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4600 5900 Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Dsquared2 Available at The Collective Dunhill dunhill.com E Emporio Armani Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4347 3211; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4604 0783; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4146 9333 Ermenegildo Zegna Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4347 1261; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4606 0999 F Fila Mumbai, Phoenix Marketcity, 022-6530 1116; Delhi, 011-4053 9348 Fossil Mumbai, 022-4005 0207; Delhi, 011-4166 4016; Bengaluru, Phoenix Marketcity, 080-6726 6060 G GAP Mumbai, 022-4244 0000; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4105 3160; Bengaluru, 080-2268 2282 Gas Mumbai, High Street Phoenix, 022-6749 9258; Delhi, 011-4087 0062; Bengaluru, Phoenix Marketcity, 080-6726 6085 Giorgio Armani Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4102 7122 G-Star RAW Mumbai, Palladium, 022-6749 9493; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4170 8295 Gucci Mumbai, 022-6747 7060; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4647 1111 H Hermès Mumbai, 022-2271 7400; Delhi, 011-2688 5501 Hugo Boss Mumbai, Palladium, 022-2491 2210; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4604 0773; Bengaluru, 080-2520 7200
I Innisfree innisfree.com Isaia isaia.it IWC Mumbai, Time Avenue, 022-2651 5757; Delhi, Johnson Watch Co., 0114151 3121; Bengaluru, Ethos Summit, 080-4099 9621 J Jacques Marie Mage jacquesmariemage.com John Elliott johnelliott.com K Kama Ayurveda Mumbai, 022-2640 1040; Delhi, 011-2465 4886; Bengaluru, 080-4173 8870 Khanijo Delhi, 011-4054 6546 Kiehl’s Mumbai, Palladium 022-6610 2119; Delhi 011-4087 0067 Kunal Rawal Mumbai, 97696 47696 L Lacoste Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4347 0190; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4109 3013; Bengaluru, 080-4147 6661 Levi’s Mumbai, 022-6708 2029; Delhi, 011-4567 4046; Bengaluru, Phoenix Marketcity, 080-6726 6240 Louis Vuitton Mumbai, 022-6664 4134; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4669 0000; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4246 0000 L’Occitane Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4004 3884 M Marks & Spencer Mumbai 022-6666 9807; Delhi, 011-4670 6550; Bengaluru, 080-2309 4062 Misho mishodesigns.com Montblanc Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4333 9994; Delhi, 011-2302 2351; Bengaluru, 080-6726 6130 N Neemli Naturals neemlinaturals.com Neil Barrett neilbarrett.com Nike Mumbai, 022-2646 1696; Delhi, 011-4150 2012; Bengaluru, 080-6726 6080 Nykaa nykaa.com O Onitsuka Tiger Mumbai, Palladium, 022-6237 7512
P Pepe Jeans Mumbai, 022-2498 5020; Delhi, 011-2331 1304; Bengaluru, 080-4096 2266 Persol Available at Sunglass Hut Philipp Plein Available at The Collective Prada prada.com R Rajesh Pratap Singh Mumbai, 022-6638 5480; Delhi, 011-2463 8788 Ralph Lauren Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4205 8323 Rare Rabbit Mumbai, 022-2600 0801; Delhi, 011-4953 7568; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4114 3275 Raw Nature rawnaturecompany.com Ray-Ban ray-ban.com Red Blue & Yellow Furniture Mumbai, 022-6666 2641 Reebok Mumbai, 022-2202 4250; Delhi, 011-4515 1335; Bengaluru, 080-5886 7780 S Salvatore Ferragamo Mumbai, 022-3062 1018; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4660 9084; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4302 0456 Scotch & Soda Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4347 4094; Delhi, 011-4087 0514 Sephora Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4004 5180 SHIRT, SHORTS; BOTH BY LOUIS VUITTON
Shantanu & Nikhil Mumbai, 022-2605 8057; Delhi, 011-4168 6805 Sunglass Hut Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4004 8554; Delhi, DLF Promenade, 011-4607 5614; Bengaluru, 080-2266 7337 Superdry Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4022 3790; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4130 6126 T The Body Shop Mumbai, Palladium, 022-6635 2922 The Collective Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4023 4414; Delhi, 011-4087 0544; Bengaluru, UB City, 080-4120 7331 The Face Shop Available at Nykaa The Man Company themancompany.com Thom Browne thombrowne.com Tod’s Mumbai, Palladium, 022-4242 1818; Delhi, DLF Emporio, 011-4666 2700 Truefitt & Hill Mumbai, Palladium, 98337 32877; Delhi 98996 93171 U United Colors of Benetton Mumbai, 022-6166 9656; Delhi, Select Citywalk, 011-4057 5085; Bengaluru, 080-4112 2368 U.S. Polo Assn. Mumbai, 022-4295 9518; Delhi, 011-4108 0026; Bengaluru, 080-2206 7663 V Valentino valentino.com Versace Delhi, DLF Emporio, 98281 94443 Volkswagen Mumbai, 022-2419 3999; Delhi, 022-2419 3999; Bengaluru, 99000 91212
WIN A STAY
AT HYATT REGENCY DELHI
THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL APR-MAY 2019 | 150
INDIAN EDITION
HOT! HOT! HOT!
Why now is the perfect time to take that fantastic trip to Ranthambore, Tulum or Israel
stay cool
WHY FINLAND WILL MAKE YOU HAPPY YOUR GUIDE TO NYC THIS SUMMER THE RISE OF RESORT WEAR
BUSINESS TRAVEL SPECIAL Making it work when you have kids—how corporates do it all
Manushi Chhillar at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
ROSEWOOD HONG KONG ★ ITC ROYAL BENGAL ★ KUDADOO MALDIVES
EXCLUSIVE
SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE REVEALS HIS FIRST-EVER DESTINATION WEDDING/RESORT EDIT
INDIAN EDITION
COMPLIMENTARY WITH APR-MAY 2019 ISSUE
Destination Wedding Guide H exclusive H
Sabyasachi Mukherjee unveils his first-ever destination wedding/resort edit 10 wedding trends that will explode in 2019 Make a splash: The most beautiful locations in the world to say ‘I do’
YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO DESTINATION WEDDINGS ★ 10 wedding trends that will rule 2019 ★ ★ The world's most beautiful venues to tie the knot ★
Follow @cntravellerindia on Instagram for the complete look
COMPLIMENTARY WITH CNT'S APRIL – MAY 2019 ISSUE www.cntraveller.in
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LUXURY, WATCHES AND FASHION IN STANDOUT STYLE
Framed for summer
CALVIN KLEIN’s Spring/Summer 2019 eyewear collection features bold and progressive styles. With strong colour palettes and solid hardware designs in a mix of materials, it is an updated representation of the iconic brand’s fashion sensibilities. Showcased here are rectangular sunglasses with a keyhole bridge. While it is mounted on an injected acetate body, the metal screw details on the frame-front and metallic end caps offer the perfect contrast.
Price on request. Available at departmental stores and leading opticians
Just for kicks
A legend in its own right, Nissan Kicks is an intelligent SUV with futuristic technology. With intelligent Around View Monitor, NissanConnect with Smartwatch Connectivity and an 8” touchscreen infotainment and navigation system, it’s the smartest car on the road. Boasting a spacious cabin that’s clad in dual tine leather, it has the best-in-class ground clearance, least turning radius and unparalleled safety features. For more information, visit nissan.in or to test drive today, call 1800-209 3456
Scent of a man
A woody and leathery fragrance, Jimmy Choo Man Blue embodies the confident and casual vibe of the millennial man. It opens on sage and bergamot that are beautifully contrasted with black pepper. The intense texture of leather reveals itself in the heart of the fragrance, which is further enhanced by grey amber and cypress. The creamy sensuality of sandalwood provides a distinctive and addictive drydown, supported by magnetic vanilla and sophisticated vetiver. `5,700 (100ml), `4,200 (50ml), `3,250 (30ml).
Available at Parcos and select departmental stores
It’s a cool summer The millennial ethnic
Check out this midnight blue panelled achkan set by Jatin Malik. While it caters to contemporary style sensibilities, it has been crafted from handwoven silk wool that gives the ensemble an organic look and feel. Featuring flawless layering and the designer’s signature zardozi work, as well as embroidery, it would perfectly complement the summer groom at his sangeet or cocktail night. For more information, follow @jatinmalikcouture on Instagram 188 —
MAY 2019
Gentlemen, it’s time to keep your cool. Arrow, leading menswear brand, recently unveiled COOL PRO — a new collection of shirts and T-shirts across Arrow Formals, Arrow Sport and Arrow New York. Woven from a unique yarn with quick dry properties, the fabric used to create this collection is incredibly airy and aims at keeping you cool when temperatures soar. `1,999 onwards. Available across all Arrow stores and on arrow.nnnow.com
Black is back
Attention sneakerheads
Finding itself in the thick of popular culture, right through history, the Suede is perhaps the most renowned of PUMA’s shoe lines. This iteration, called Suede Secret Garden, channels a contemporary summer vibe that captures the imagination of the millennial generation. While the medial side of the formestrip is suede, the lateral side reveals a bold tropical print on canvas. With eye-catching metallic branding and a woven tongue label, these shoes are taking street style to the next fashionable level.
The new all-black ceramic version of the HydroConquest timepiece from Longines is a must-have. The dynamic profile of this watch completes a line, recently augmented with variations, featuring a bezel enhanced by a coloured ceramic insert. Combining the technical excellence and traditional elegance of the brand, the HydroConquest collection draws its inspiration from the world of aquatic sports.
Price on request. Available in all leading retail outlets
Stitched to perfection
`7,999. Available on in.puma.com
Known for detailed designs and impeccable craftsmanship, fashion designer Nasir Khan with his eponymous label ensures that his creations become an extension of your personal style. With an eye for texture, embroidery and fabric, he delivers bespoke styles that are on trend and appeal to the fashion connoisseur. Offering sartorial perfection that delivers a sharp, bespoke look, everything that comes from the atelier of Nasir Khan Designs is a wearable work of art. For more information, visit nasirkhandesigns.com or follow @nasirkhandesigns on Instagram
Wonder Windows
Windows are portals to the outside world and Fenesta, a leader in crafting customised windows and doors, offers plenty of styles for you to play around with. Choose Corner Sliders to turn cosy nooks into corner balconies or garden spaces. Or, select their Switch Glass, which changes from clear to opaque to offer privacy. But if you’re looking to give your home a Georgian edge, Fenesta creates the appearance of casement windows with multiple panes and astragal bars. For more information, visit fenesta.com
Sport it
These sports shoes from Westside are totally on point with the athleisure trend. While their uppers are made from stretchable flyknit material, they are supported by lightweight phylon which offers all-day comfort. Choose from a range of neutral hues. They look great when paired with denim, cropped pants, joggers or even formals, allowing you to exude a summer sporty vibe. `1799. Available at Westside stores or on tatacliq.com
MAY 2019
— 189
the last word
Word Problems Harder to Solve THAN
the Real-Life Failures
A
Maria just got her period and, even though it was right on time, as always, she doesn’t have a single tampon. If her company allocates `1,000 a month to stocking kale crisps in the snack area and zero rupees a month to stocking tampons in the bathrooms, how fucked up is that?
Tara has six pairs of pajama pants and one perfectly good drawer. If each pair takes approximately eight seconds to fold, please explain why the drawer is empty and all the pants are crumpled in a pile next to the bed?
Aditya brushes his teeth three times a day and uses one capful of mouthwash in the morning and one capful at night. How many molecules of food are rotting in his gums because he’s not flossing? Please show your work, and then please show it to Aditya.
nita goes to the grocery store and buys three litres of milk and six bananas. Every morning, she eats one banana and drinks a 0.5l glass of orange juice. How many days will it take for Anita’s roommate to realise that someone’s been drinking all her juice?
Nidhi Googles “e-waste recycling near me” once every three months, before becoming overwhelmed and shutting down her computer. Given that climate change will render the planet inhospitable to human life by 2100, how many more years will it be before Nidhi can exchange her iPhone 5C on the black market for a litre of petrol and a boomerang? Arjun goes to sleep at 10pm every night and wakes up at 7am each morning, without an alarm. By what percentage does he think he’s better than the rest of us? 190 —
MAY 2019
Gauri is subletting her friend’s apartment while he studies in Florence for the summer. If she kills his four houseplants as quickly as we think she will, how high-pitched will her voice be, in hertz, when she tells her friend that everything’s going great? Vivek bought four avocados for `900, in what seemed like an incredible deal. If Vivek has three left, but only two are ripe, and he really wants only one for dinner, what should he – too late! All of Vivek’s avocados have gone bad now.
WORDS: KIKI O’KEEFFE, YSABEL YATES. ILLUSTRATION: MATTHEW KRAMER
That Inspired Them