Drinks Trade #89 - Summer 2023/24 by Hip Media

your news, your views SUMMER 2023/24 issue 89

CROWDFUNDING CRAFT BREWING THE READY-TODRINK COCKTAIL MARKET

Talking Rosé with Madame Nathalie Vranken

P l e a s e d r i n k r e s p o n s i b l y.

Editor’s Note

CREDITS

PUBLISHER The Drinks Association

www.drinksassociation.com.au All enquiries to: The Drinks Association Locked Bag 4100, Chatswood NSW 2067 ABN 26 001 376 423 The views expressed in Drinks Trade are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the magazine or The Drinks Association. Copyright is held by The Drinks Association and reproduction in whole or in part, without prior consent, is not permitted.

EDITORIAL PUBLISHING EDITOR Ashley Pini.....................ashley@hipmedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Melissa Parker...............melissa@hipmedia.com.au DIGITAL EDITOR Rachel White ......................... rachel@hipmedia.com.au STAFF WRITER Cody Profaca.............................. cody@hipmedia.com.au

DESIGN SENIOR DESIGNER Jihee Park ��jihee@hipmedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Jenny Park �� jenny@hipmedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Sasha Falloon .........sasha@hipmedia.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Jane Adams, , David Messum,

Produced and contract published by:

ACCOUNTS: accounts@hipmedia.com.au For new product or current releases in Drinks Trade magazine send a sample to: HIP Media 20 Gillian Parade, West Pymble, NSW 2073 www.hipmedia.com.au | facebook.com/drinksmedia ABN: 42 126 291 914

When Madame Nathalie Vranken comes to town, it’s rosé time. The director of Vranken-Pommery Monopole follows the sun to promote her Provençal rosé from Château de Gordonne and shine it did. On her first day in Australia, the sun made a rare appearance when she showcased her Château’s impressive range to guests at Melbourne’s Botanical Gardens. The rosé is the cornerstone of Château de Gordonne, but the Vranken-appointed young and innovative winemaker also produces unique white and red wines. Find out more about his intriguing winemaking technique in our interview with Madame on page 10. For our tasting panel, David Messum and his team tasted their way through Australian Chardonnays. Dubbed the winemaker’s grape for its malleability in the winery, Chardonnay is a variety with many faces. It can be rich and unctuous, steely and mineral, floral and delicate or just a huge buttery bomb. The tasting team analysed what styles are favoured today and what is happening in this forever-shifting white wine space on page 62. In other wine variety news, wine consultant Jane Adams pens a piece on Piquepoul. She addresses why this compelling white grape variety from the south of France is delivering delicious wines in the hills of New South Wales. And why it is the perfect match for oysters. (Page 51). We also report on the noble white wine grape of Greece. Assyrtiko, like Chardonnay, is a versatile grape with expressions ranging from super sweet to mineral dry. At home on the volcanic island of Santorini, its expression is particularly special. Australian winemaker Peter Barry found it also does well in the Clare Valley (Page 54). Cocktails in cans; it had to happen. Australian consumers love cocktails, and they love convenience, so putting them together is a no-brainer. Ashley Pini reports on the brands kicking the can for the upand-coming silly season (Page 18). Running a craft brewery is expensive, particularly when you are up against beer giants with the power to broker purchasing decisions and deliver on sharpened prices.

For craft brewing to remain relevant, it needs hard cash. Savvy craft brewers are finding ways to raise the required capital, and one of them is crowdfunding. We talk to the co-founder of the latest craft brewery to have success on page 37. Another big C before we go. Chris Baddock is a much-admired departing liquor industry leader. Recently, the CEO at Australian Liquor Marketers stepped down for health reasons. Colleague and National Senior Marketing Manager at ALM, Clare Adamiak, interviewed Chris on his thoughtful leadership style as we wish him all the best for the future (Page 30). On behalf of the team at Drinks Trade, cheers to all as we sign off for another calendar year. We look forward to delivering you all the news and views when we return in 2024. Happy Holidays.

Melissa melissa@hipmedia.com.au @drinkswithmelparker

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Contents 10

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NEWS

COCKTAILS

Latest industry news

Retail Drinks – Tackling crime in liquor retail

INTERVIEWS 10

Viewpoint – Madame Nathalie Vranken, Director of VrankenPommery Monopole Group talks rosé wines An Interview with Chris Baddock - Celebrating his Leadership at Australian Liquor Marketers Absolutely Fabulous – An Interview with Marketing Director Absolut Vodka, Kristy Rutherford

The Souring Popularity of Canned Cocktails by Ashley Pini

Cocktail Competitions – Recognising Industry Talent

Top 5 Trending Summer Cocktails for 2023/2024

BEER 37

Philter Brewing and Crowdfunding in the Craft Beer Sector

WINE 44

A WSET Diploma Journey

Picpoul- The Oyster Wine by Jane Adams

Santorini’s Volcanic Wines and Ancient Vines by Melissa Parker

Australian Wine List of the Year

Panel Tastings – Chardonnay by David Messum

Crafting the Perfect Ale: Unveiling the Complexities of Beer Styles by Ashley Pini

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News

Emperor Launches Brad Pitt Champagne in Australia Emperor Champagne, in collaboration with Fleur de Miraval, unveils the highly anticipated third edition of ‘ER3’ or ‘Exclusive Rosé 3,’ with a limited run of only 150 bottles set to be made available for purchase via Emperor Champagne in Australia. Champagne Fleur De Miraval, a harmonious union of the talents of Famille Perrin and the Péters family, guided by the artistic vision of Hollywood celebrity turned wine entrepreneur Brad Pitt, annually crafts this Champagne born from fine back vintage Chardonnay blended with Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Following the global success of last year’s release, Champagne enthusiasts across Australia will have the opportunity to secure a bottle from this limited allocation. Registration opened in November, and allocation granted on a first-registered, firstallocated basis through emperorchampagne. com.au. Those fortunate enough to make a purchase will also become members of the Fleur De Miraval community, enjoying automatic access to future releases. Australian purveyor of Champagne, Emperor Champagne, is the exclusive distributor for ER3.

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Jimmy Watson clinched by House of Arras wins Best Pinot Noir for the third time Australian Sparkling in in history London Tasmania’s Lowestoft’s 2022 La Maison Pinot Noir has clinched the highly coveted Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Royal Melbourne Wine Awards. Lowestoft’s 2022 La Maison Pinot Noir won the 60th Jimmy Watson Trophy for Best Young Red at the 2023 Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, solidifying its status as a top-tier winemaker in the country. This is the first time Lowestoft Estate Wines has secured this prestigious accolade and only the third instance where a Pinot Noir has claimed the trophy. Home Hill 2014 Kelly’s Reserve Tasmania won it in 2015, and Yabby Lake 2012 Block 1 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir won it in 2013. The Jimmy Watson Trophy, honouring the late Jimmy Watson’s contributions to the Australian wine industry, is awarded to the finest one- or two-year-old dry red wine. The 2023 trophy winners for the prestigious Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, presented by Vintrace, were announced at a luncheon at the Victoria Pavilion at Melbourne Showgrounds.

Newly acquired by Handpicked Wines, House of Arras A by Arras Premium Cuvée Brut claimed Best Australian Sparkling at the 10th annual Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships 2023 (CSWWC). Acclaimed House of Arras Chief Winemaker Ed Carr, who was in attendance in London, said, “I’m incredibly honoured to accept this award for our A by Arras Premium Cuvée Brut. “This wine is a terrific introduction to the House of Arras collection. It’s opulent, sophisticated and structural, while showcasing the hallmark characteristics of cool climate sparkling wine. I’m thrilled it is recognised on the global stage as one of Australia’s best sparkling wines.” The CSWWC is noted as the world’s most competitive and prestigious sparkling wine competition, respected worldwide for “its rigorous judging process and sparkling specialist judges.” This year, nearly 1,000 sparkling wines from 19 different countries were judged over 11 days at Goodnestone Park in England.

News

Andre Bondar is Dux of Len Evans 2023 Andre Bondar was announced as the recipient of the Basil Sellers Prize for Dux of the Len Evans Tutorial 2023 (LET) at a presentation lunch at Spicers Guesthouse in the Hunter Valley. James Halliday AM and Basil Sellers AM were both in attendance to present Andre with his award. Andre, winemaker at McLaren Vale’s Bondar Wines, will fly Business Class to Europe with Len Evans, Tutorial Principal Sponsor, Singapore Airlines, to visit some of the most famous wine-producing regions and producers in the world. Andre’s wine career began in 2001 at Nepenthe in the Adelaide Hills. He has since spent time in the Northern Rhone at Domaine Allain Graillot and, with his wife Selina, handpicked Shiraz for their first vintage at Bondar in 2012. He is currently the co-chair of the McLaren Vale Wine Show committee.

Spirited Pair launch Six Tricks Distillery A new distillery is poised to invigorate the central Gold Coast scene when it debuts this month. Founded by Gold Coast natives Chris Macklin and Teagan Peake, Six-Tricks Distilling Co. is an all-encompassing rum and whiskey distillery, tasting room, and cocktail bar that will unlock its doors on the 18th of November.

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Nestled in an unassuming cul-de-sac overlooking the Broadbeach skyline, SixTricks pays homage to the craft of rum and whisky, making local spirit from scratch at its two new state-of-the-art facility. “We want to offer locals and visitors to the Gold Coast an immersive distillery and drinks experience, with education at the forefront, so our guests can be a part of the journey and understand the process from raw ingredients to exceptionally crafted cocktails,” says Macklin. “We are proudly a local business, and our onsite production is the heartbeat of our venue,” says Chris. “Not only does this allow us to take full control of our production process, but it also gives us the freedom to infuse our spirits with creativity before delivering them to the market.”

Fuji Gotemba launches Single Blended Whisky in Australia Fuji Gotemba showcases the epitome of Japanese craftsmanship and masterful blending with its latest Australian offering, Fuji Single Blended Whisky. The new expression represents a blend of malt and grain whiskies, all crafted at

the renowned Fuji Gotemba distillery, pioneering the art of Single Blended Whisky. Fuji Single Blended Whisky combines corn, rye and malted barley distilled in various stills and aged for up to 16 years. The end result is a delightfully sweet, fruity and rich whisky with a silky, enduring finish. Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands.

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Rosé

Viewpoint

COMING UP

The remarkable Provençal rosé wines of Château La Gordonne with Madame Nathalie Vranken MADAME NATHALIE VRANKEN IS THE DIRECTOR AND OWNER OF VRANKEN-POMMERY MONOPOLE WITH HER HUSBAND PAULFRANÇOIS VRANKEN. THEIR PROVENCE WINERY, CHÂTEAU LA GORDONNE WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1652 AND THE SITE HAS CULTIVATED VINES DATING BACK TO THE 1ST CENTURY BC. IT IS A CHÂTEAU OF MANY FIRSTS FOR THE REGION; FIRST TO HARVEST AT NIGHT IN 2009 TO ENHANCE FRESHNESS, FIRST TO TRANSITION TO ORGANIC FARMING IN 2010 AND BE CLASSIFIED AS BIO (ORGANIC), FIRST TO USE A UNIQUE SHAPED BOTTLE AND FIRST TO VINIFY WINE IN SANDSTONE EGGS USING AN INFUSION METHOD. MADAME VRANKEN SPOKE WITH DRINKS TRADE DURING HER AUSTRALIAN TOUR PROMOTING HER CHÂTEAU LA GORDONNE PROVENÇAL REMARKABLE WINES, HER TALENTED YOUNG WINEMAKER AND WHY AUSTRALIA IS AN IMPORTANT MARKET.

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How has global consumption of rosé wines changed over the years? Is it still a summer drink? Most countries in the world discovered rosé at the same time. It was like a blooming; like a joyful moment, which is most of the time linked with summer. Summer garden parties, BBQs, beach parties. It’s the moment when joy comes to the spirit of everyone, and that goes with the sun. So today, I think that everyone will enjoy rosé and discover there is a big difference between one and another. Today, people who drink rosé are more aware, want to learn more, and understand more and drink less. When you allow yourself to drink a glass of wine, it should be good, and it should be the one you are expecting. So, when you decide to drink a glass of wine you do it with an awareness. So, the expectations of the people, the learning, the knowing about the wine is increasing. Has rosé lost its perception of being a frivolous wine and are consumers seeing rosé as a serious wine style now? People want to understand rosé. If it’s like you say, just a frivolity, it has no interest in terms of winemaking. The soil, the property, the winemaker, the people working in the vineyard, want to achieve a target. They want to achieve the goal of creating and crafting wines made for drinking with pleasure under the sun. But that doesn’t mean that they don’t have savoir-faire. What makes Provence special for rosé wines? It’s because it’s where it was born. So, the original can always be copied, but the original has roots. In fact, in Provence, it is always under the sun, so that is why it gives that very light sense of taste, which is made of fruity flavours and is less alcoholic, so it makes for a happy style. Provence makes wines in a style of happiness.

We’ve experienced some beautiful rosé wines today. Tell us about the winemaking technique and the winemaker. What makes Château La Gordonne different? We are fortunate to work with the very young Julien Fort, who is the winemaker of the Chateau. He is 28 years old and was recently awarded one of the top 100 Master Winemakers by The Drinks Business. He wanted to give roots, legitimacy, and legacy to his wines, which, as you say, sometimes could be considered a frivolity. So, to balance that idea of frivolity and to bring it into a wine world; the know-how is more important than the way you look. He brings a new winemaking technique to the winery

which uses porcelain eggs making wine using no crush at all which is definitely a little revolution in the winemaking process. Julien has brought with him experience and we are so thankful he developed this idea at Château La Gordonne. It is very impressive for me and my husband too. He takes the berries one by one and places them into the eggs, and then he rotates the eggs. It’s the weight of one on top of the other, that extracts the wine. It is infusion. It is closer to tea than anything else. Here, the grapes make the juice by themselves. Wine is a result of a process of man and woman working on the soil, on a vineyard, and on grapes with passion, which brings

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Viewpoint

them to have ideas. Wine has always been linked to religion because it makes the beauty of what man can offer to nature. It is very interesting to have the view of that young guy working very differently on our soil and our vineyards and offering a new way and a new process of winemaking. It is the smoothest way of making wine today with a lot of flavour, with a lot of pleasure and certainly with a reduction of alcohol degrees compared to Provence 20 years ago. Australian consumers are not less educated than anywhere else on earth. It is not because you are a little bit far away by a plane that you are not educated, that you are not aware or don’t want to know. Australia is also a beautiful winemaking region. You have the Yarra and the Margaret River and other beautiful areas for making wines, and we are all very aware of what we want to

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achieve in drinking a glass of wine. Julien perfectly encompasses all that spirit and puts it into a new way of winemaking. And your wines are classified as Bio. For ten years now. It means we are as close as possible to nature. We were the first one to introduce the process in Provence. Like we were the first to harvest during the night, and the grapes did not have too much sugar under the sun. We were also the first to bottle in a special shape; today, it has become more common, but when we started in 2005, there was no one. Where does Australia sit as a market for Château La Gordonne? It is one of the top ten markets because we have had our subsidiary for more than ten years here. This is an important market,

so we always provide our subsidiaries with wine from our estates. Australia was one of the first countries to receive Château La Gordonne. How do you view the future of the rosé wine category in Australia? We are not going into a world that is drinking a lot. We are going into a world that allows us to drink, but it will be our choice. So, the choice has to be for the better rather than something made for being an everyday big-volume drink. So, with that view of the market, we are working hard on our knowledge, and that is why such a revolution in winemaking, as Julien has made with the Trilogy (Les Planètes, Sémaphore and Le Cirque des Grives), is very important for us to promote. It is niche. It is not made to be 10 million bottles. It is

made for when you have decided to drink something and treat yourself to something good. No guilt. Just a treat. It needs to be something that you genuinely believe in. If it is not, you will not consider it a good treat for yourself. How can we get Australians to drink rosé wine outside of summer? It comes from years of habits. We were talking during lunch about what temperature you should drink red wine. We have been trained or used to drinking wine at room temperature, but room temperature brings a more alcoholic sensation. Rosé is the wine between white and red. It’s more balanced. It is not too acidic, as a white can be; it is not too heavy in tannin, as a red can be. Today, we start to see more and more people reacting to tannin or heavy charges of tannin in the glass, so the perfect wine if you don’t want too much of these things is rosé.

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A Drinks Trade Promotion

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN THE LOIRE VALLEY IS HOME TO MANY OF FRANCE’S GREATEST TREASURES, FROM THE GRAND CHATEAUX OF THE MONARCHS TO FAMOUS CATHEDRALS THAT DOT THE RIVER AS IT JOURNEYS FROM SANCERRE TO THE ATLANTIC COAST. IT IS ALSO THE REGION THAT ST-RÉMY CHOSE TO ESTABLISH ITSELF WHEN LOOKING FOR A HOME WITH ACCESS TO HIGH-QUALITY WINES SIMILAR IN STYLE TO THOSE FROM THE CHARENTE REGION AND COGNAC. THE TINY VILLAGE OF MACHECOUL WAS KNOWN FOR QUALITY WINES THAT THE ANCIENT VINEYARD TOWN HAD BEEN GROWING FOR CENTURIES. ST-RÉMY MET WITH IMMEDIATE SUCCESS IN FRANCE AND BEGAN TO BE EXPORTED TO THE REST OF EUROPE IN THE 1920S. THE AMERICAN CONTINENT WAS THE NEXT TO DISCOVER ST-RÉMY, FOLLOWED BY SOUTH-EAST ASIA, AFRICA AND AUSTRALIA. WHILE ST-RÉMY BRANDY BECAME READILY AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT THE REST OF THE WORLD, THE ESSENCE OF THIS UNPARALLELED FRENCH BRANDY HAS REMAINED UNCHANGED FOR OVER A CENTURY. As of 1949, in a true avant-garde spirit, StRémy was the first brand to sell its products in an unusual black bottle, about to become an icon in the Brandy world. Sold initially as Fine St-Rémy, it was launched as Napoléon VSOP in 1980 and Napoléon XO in 1990. For the past 20 years, St-Rémy has been awarded several times and recognised as the world’s favourite French brandy. In 2020, Australia welcomed St-Rémy Signature – a versatile brandy ideal for classic cocktails and creations.

FLAVOUR St-Rémy consistent quality can be traced directly to its founder’s know-how in Cognac making. It all starts when the wines, chosen from: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne,

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Beaujolais, Rhone and Loire valleys, and Languedoc Roussillon. Using the same techniques as Cognac, the wine is heated until it turns into eaux-de-vie, the stage at which unique flavours are brought to life. All St-Rémy eaux-de-vie are matured in small French oak barrels and, as time passes, they acquire their amber colour, body and roundness, fruity and floral accents and light spicy notes. Blending adds the final touch.

THE MASTER BLENDER CÉCILE ROUDAUT Cécile Roudaut lives in a small town of just 3,000 inhabitants, in an old post office surrounded by vineyards. Born in nearby Saumur – as was Coco Chanel before her, Roudaut evokes the sweetness, the

landscapes, the white stone, the vine, and the light of Anjou in the lower Loire Valley; and she loves the roughness, the granite, the warmth of its inhabitants. “As a child, history fascinated me,” she recounts, “Most notably antiquity.” She wanted to be an archaeologist; she was already showing a taste for roots. She studied biology and completed her internship in the field of cosmetics. Her eyes light up: “The pride of seeing one of my creations born was a revelation for me!” As she continued her path, she discovered both teamwork and the need for rigorous control when she joined a Saumur winery, where she was responsible for quality control. She took courses in oenology and learned winemaking and blending techniques. Cécile joined Rémy Cointreau in July

1997, in the Research & Development department: “Working on the composition and creation of products allowed me to find what has always truly moved me.” This is where her privileged relationship with St-Rémy began, culminating in June 2016 with her appointment as Master Blender, following the retirement of Martine Pain. Cécile Roudaut defines her mission as master blender: “I work on selecting eauxde-vies and looking after them whilst they are aging in oak barrels; then I evaluate them and blend them, create “assemblages”, that will become St-Rémy brandy.” She focuses on pursuing this ancestral function by respecting the brand’s values: “St-Rémy has strong roots – a tradition, a history, a real elegance. My role is to ensure that the brand retains its authenticity. “St-Rémy is unique,” she says, “Taste it, compare it, savour it. It’s the best!”

CORPSE REVIVER #1 The first recipe of the Corpse Reviver No. 1 was published in 1030, with the author advising to “take this cocktail before 11am, or whenever steam and energy are needed!”

CHAMPIONING WOMEN IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY. St-Rémy teamed up with Mix-Haus, co-founded by Shirley Yeung and Pippa Canavan, to help empower women in hospitality through education, training, networking, and workshops. Mix-Haus is a not-for-profit organisation that partnered with St-Rémy earlier this year across Western Australia (WA) with $1 from every St-Rémy Signature cocktail sold at participating venues donated to Mix Haus. In addition, Spirits Platform donated an additional $50 per case of St-Rémy Signature purchased in the period. All funds raised went towards a ‘Mix Haus Library’, a place for women in the industry to borrow a book they want to read for free to educate, empower, and inspire. Yeung said: “We are thrilled to partner with St-Rémy Signature to help raise much-needed funds to empower women in the hospitality industry. Providing more resources and knowledge for females is a trail that we are passionate about blazing – to have the support of such a prestigious brand gives our mission an incredible boost. “The idea for Mix Haus was born out of passion and the desire to grow in an industry

Glass: Rocks Garnish: Orange twist Ingredients: 30ml St-Rémy Signature that traditionally has lacked support for women. We want to showcase what WA can offer, and championing our incredible talent here is more important than ever, and the funds raised thanks to St-Rémy Signature will help us do that.” Since launching in 2021, Mix Haus has raised more than AU$15,000 (US$9,615) to support women in hospitality, using funds to offer free workshops, training, events and scholarships. Casey Gray, WA state sales manager at Spirits Platform, commented: “We’re big fans of Mix Haus and their important work, and now more than ever, it’s time for the industry to get together and shine a spotlight on the incredible local female talent in WA. “Shirley and Pippa are true changemakers in the industry and it’s great to see so many WA venues getting behind this incredible initiative to help them achieve their goals.”

30ml Apple brandy 20ml Sweet vermouth Method: Stir over and strain into a chilled rocks with ice

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A Drinks Trade Promotion

170 YEARS YOUNG: Hardys Wines, from Founding Vision to Industry Revolution It is 1853 in McLaren Vale, and the Australian wine industry is still finding its feet. Thomas Hardy recently arrived on the continent and has just scrambled together the pennies to buy his own patch of land following a few years of hard work. It is here, on the banks of the River Torrens, that Hardys Wines was born with a simple vision: to “make wines prized the world over.” Whilst likely not even Thomas himself dared to dream of the impact such a beginning would eventually have on Australia’s wine industry, looking back, it is now evident that very few moments have been as quintessential to viticulture down under as Hardys’ humble beginnings. It is now 2023, and Hardys fans worldwide are raising a glass to the extensive list of achievements the company has achieved in its 170 years. There are lots of them: both fans and achievements. Holding the title of the number one Australian wine brand in the UK for 13 years running and the second most influential globally, approximately two million glasses of Hardys Wines are being savoured daily across its global reach of 130 countries. Its consistency is equally remarkable, reflected by a resume containing more than 9,000 awards… that’s more than 50 yearly awards! “This anniversary truly speaks to the enduring strength of the Hardys brand. It honours the legacy created by our founder and echoes through the commitment of all who have safeguarded it over the years,” commented Helen McCarthy, recently appointed Chief Winemaker.

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The 170-year milestone is also cause to celebrate the less statistically evident part Hardys has played in Australia’s viticultural history. This includes its instrumental role in preventing phylloxera in Australia, along with its numerous contributions to elevating the reputations of the regions it champions, McLaren Vale, domestically and Australia internationally. So, what is the secret behind such resounding success? Thomas’ vision. Hardy started his company with the relentless aim to make wines that would be appreciated

worldwide, emphasising quality over quantity at every turn. His dedication to his founding philosophy, combined with his willingness to take risks to achieve it, not only cemented his company’s success but directly contributed to the ascent of Australian winemaking on the international stage. To celebrate the 170-year milestone, Hardys has released an all-new icon wine dubbed The Eight. A Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz blend uniting parcels from esteemed vineyards in Frankland River (47%),

McLaren Vale (44%), and Coonawarra (9%), The Eight represents Hardys’ dedication to capturing the essence of Australia’s diverse terroir, harnessing, compiling, and balancing the different personalities of each region. “By meticulously handpicking the finest grapes from three iconic regions, we have created a wine that harmoniously combines their unique attributes,” said The Eight’s Winemaker Helen McCarthy. “The Eight is a testament to the immense potential of Australian wines and an experience that will delight wine enthusiasts around the world.” The distinctly Aussie Cab/Shiraz blend further contributes to creating a wine of immense complexity, with Cabernet Sauvignon providing an elegant structure and refined tannins whilst Shiraz imparts depth and richness, tailed by spice. Flavours are all about dark fruits and subtle chocolate, leading to a lingering, velvety finish. “It is a wine of outstanding dark fruit intensity, concentration, structure, and length that will continue to develop complexity for decades,” said McCarthy. Deriving its name from the eight select barrels from which it hails, only 2,004 bottles of The Eight were produced. With an RRP of $250, these will sell out fast. Before this, in honour of the anniversary are Hardys Zero Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Sparkling, which launched last year. Produced using novel technology that retains natural flavours and body during the de-alcoholising process, the Hardys zeroalcohol range maintains a low sugar content and long finish without sacrificing balance or taste. The three wines perfectly embody the innovative spirit that has defined Hardys for more than one and a half centuries, reflecting its pragmatic approach to staying ahead in every market sector, whether emerging or established. Regarding the Shiraz, drinkers can expect a wine with pronounced notes of raspberries and black cherries atop a backdrop of delicate vanilla oak, savoury tannins, and balanced sweetness. Unfortunately, despite the many causes to celebrate, Hardys Wines 170th anniversary is tinged with a note of sadness due to the

recent passing of Thomas Hardy’s greatgrandson Sir James Hardy OBE. Beyond being a respected advocate for Hardys wines, Sir James was an integral part of the brands’ lineage. For those looking to raise a glass in honour of Hardys 170-year millestone, there is no better place to do so than at its Mclaren Vale Tintara site. Transformed from a flour mill into a wine cellar in 1876 by Thomas Hardy himself, the site remains a living testament not only to the

company’s rich history but to the very origins of McLaren Vale as a prosperous wine-producing region. It remains its heart and soul to this day. The Tintara Winery Cellar Door offers a variety of tasting and tour options, though perhaps none more intriguing than Tasting in the Dark, an experience designed to showcase the influence visual senses have on the tasting experience. If that’s not enough, the Tintara site also features an art gallery, museum display, and even a Cellar Door Tree Trail.

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Cocktails

s l i a t k c o C The Soaring Popularity of Canned IN THE VAST AND VARIED LANDSCAPE OF AUSTRALIA’S DRINKING CULTURE, A NEW TREND HAS BEEN SHAKING UP THE SCENE. By Ashley Pini

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not is s il ta k c o c d e n n a c f The rise o lution. o v re a ’s it ; d n e tr a t jus

Canned cocktails, once considered a mere convenience, have transformed into a symbol of innovation and quality, capturing the hearts and palates of consumers across the country. These ready-to-drink libations have rapidly evolved from a novelty to a staple, redefining how Australians enjoy their favourite mixed drinks. The clinking of glasses has now been joined by the subtle crack of aluminium, marking a new chapter in the country’s vibrant cocktail culture.

A CONCOCTION OF CONVENIENCE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP If the US market is anything to go by, we are in for a continued period of growth, both in volume and value terms, across the RTD category as a whole. Data from the IWSR Drinks Market Analysis reveals that while the US market was flat in volume terms, ending a period of rapid growth, it still rose 6% in value, reaching US$18.2bn. The market is expected to continue that growth to reach an eye-watering US$21.1bn next year. And Australia more than often follows suit. The rise of canned cocktails can be attributed to various factors, starting with convenience. Time is precious, and the appeal of a pre-mixed, ready-to-drink cocktail is undeniable. The convenience of cracking open a can and enjoying a perfectly blended Negroni or a refreshing Mojito without the need for multiple ingredients or a bartender is a compelling proposition. RTDs are becoming more premium and more sophisticated. It’s not only the onset of Seltzers – but the rise of Cocktails in a Can driving a new consumer to an already strong RTD category. While so many categories are in decline, this looks like the gift that keeps on giving. We have been shouting from the rooftops that “Australians are drinking better” and “quality matters” are at the forefront of a premiumisation trend for as long as I can remember. RTD’s are just following suit. The fusion of convenience with quality is the perfect storm, driven by high-quality ingredients. The innovation of new canned concoctions crafted by expert mixologists

using premium spirits and natural ingredients is home to an array of classic and innovative cocktails, each brimming with the same complexity and flavours found in many of the best bars. The same bars we’ve been promoting as “world-class” for years.

CHANGING CONSUMER TASTES AND PREFERENCES The transformation of the canned cocktail market in Australia is also reflective of changing consumer preferences. As more individuals seek healthier, more natural, and transparently produced products, the demand for high-quality, artisanal canned cocktails has skyrocketed. Brands have responded by emphasising natural ingredients, lower sugar content, and healthier alternatives such as organic spirits and natural sweeteners. This shift aligns

with the country’s broader movement towards conscious consumption and sustainability. Moreover, the younger demographic’s predilection for experimentation and variety has significantly contributed to the burgeoning popularity of canned cocktails. These offerings provide an accessible entry point for those new to the world of mixology, allowing them to explore and enjoy a diverse range of flavours without the need for extensive knowledge or equipment. Michael Newbold, senior brand manager at Vok Beverages, said, “With the hotter months ahead and Australia’s insatiable demand for convenient drink choices, we want to be a leader within the RTD space, just as we are in liqueurs. “One of the most magical things about cocktails is how easily we can associate our favourite drinks with a particular moment, place or time in our lives. There’s a personality that comes with any cocktail

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SUMMER IS SERVED.

**NEW FRUIT TINGLE PACKAGING PICTURED AVAILABLE FROM DECEMBER.

experience; these new flavours are all about vibrant expressions and embracing the kitsch.’ “At the end of the day, we wanted to offer drinkers fun, full-flavoured and sessionable options at a great price, making them perfect for enjoying everywhere from backyard barbies, beer gardens, picnics and house parties with mates.” With a slim design that fits easily into any jam-packed esky, the 4.0% ABV make Cocktails By Vok approachable whilst still delivering a taste profile that’s bursting with deliciousness. Archie Rose has also added to their Fundamental Spirit Range with six pre-mix whisky, gin, and vodka cans. The series includes two cans featuring Archie Rose Double Malt Whisky, three of the Double Straight Gin and an Australian Vodka Soda mix. All enjoy a size upgrade to the 330ml format. They are marketed for their highest quality ingredients at an accessible price point. They are also “vegan friendly with a lower sugar and calorie count and allnatural flavours.”

THE INDUSTRY’S EVOLUTION AND INNOVATION The beverage industry in Australia has responded to this rising trend by continuously innovating and expanding its canned cocktail repertoire. From traditional favourites like the Margarita and the Old Fashioned to more contemporary blends like the Passionfruit Martini or the Spicy Paloma, the variety available in canned form has become extensive and eclectic. Brands are not just sticking to the classics; they’re pushing the boundaries, infusing creativity and experimentation to entice and captivate consumers. Furthermore, collaborations between established spirit brands and renowned mixologists have further elevated the canned cocktail market. These partnerships result in unique, limited-edition releases that celebrate innovation and artistry, creating a sense of exclusivity and excitement among consumers.

The adaptability and versatility of canned cocktails have found a perfect match in the Australian way of life, RTDs have proven this over the last few decades. Whether it’s a beach picnic, a backyard barbecue, or a music festival, these portable, lightweight cans have become the ideal companion for various social occasions. Now, the convenience of sipping a wellcrafted cocktail without the hassle of mixing or cleaning up has seamlessly integrated into the country’s relaxed, outdoor-centric lifestyle.

CHALLENGES AND THE ROAD AHEAD However, as with any growing trend, challenges persist. The crowded market demands continuous innovation and differentiation to stand out. Additionally, sustainability concerns around single-use packaging, particularly the aluminium cans, have sparked conversations within the industry, prompting a shift towards more eco-friendly practices and materials.

Despite these challenges, the trajectory of canned cocktails in Australia seems upward. The industry’s ability to adapt, innovate, and cater to evolving consumer demands positions it to maintain its growth trajectory. The ascendancy of canned cocktails in Australia signifies a significant evolution in the country’s drinking culture. It’s not just about the ease of cracking open a can; it’s a celebration of craftsmanship, innovation, and adaptability. The industry has pivoted from providing mere convenience to offering a genuine and high-quality drinking experience, capturing the essence of a wellcrafted cocktail in a portable, accessible format. The journey of canned cocktails in Australia is a story of transformation, where innovation and changing consumer preferences converge, reshaping how Australians enjoy their favourite mixed drinks. As these cans continue to pop up nationwide, they do more than offer refreshment; they symbolise a toast to the ingenuity and adaptability of the everevolving Australian drinking culture.

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Cocktails

Five minutes with Matt Sanger, managing director, Curatif. By Ashley Pini

What do you feel has been the driving force behind Australians embracing a more premium version of the RTD? Australia loves RTD. Of everything we’ll chat about today, this is the bit that probably isn’t news. For decades we’ve consumed more RTD per capita than any other country in the world. There’s not many Australian consumers who don’t have some sort of formative memory that relates to some iteration of RTD – Breezers, Cruisers, Double Blacks, Ices, Bundy and this, Jack and that, Jimmy Bs, UDL. It’s the Who’s Who of a generation of low innovation, high convenience, simple serves. It’s also not news that consumers have become more sophisticated and more educated than ever. With a modern mindset around considered mindfulness, the push towards “drink less, drink better” has been true for quite some time. With those facts in mind, it was inevitable that RTD would grow up as well. Incredible cocktails made convenient are a natural extension of the evolution of the modern palate and its matched desire for convenience. How does Curatif deliver on this? The cocktail always comes first – beyond anything else it’s the finished cocktail that is the absolute priority. I think that’s the simplest way to explain it. We don’t crow about brand Curatif this or brand Curatif that, our focus is – how can we make the best possible cocktail? As an example, we source all of our coffee beans from a few little farms in the Minas Gerais region of Sao Paulo in Brazil to make our Espresso Martini, brew it ourselves at our facility in Port Melbourne and blend it with Archie Rose Vodka, and Tia Maria. For a product that seems to be mass produced,

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it’s meticulously created. We’ve created the world’s most awarded Espresso Martini by being focused on product, process, and output. It’s a unique approach in a world of bag-in-box flavours. The same can be said for every product in our range – bestin-class, crafted spirits with real, fresh ingredients. Searching the world over we’re still yet to see anything that comes close, and it appears that consumers would agree.

What are the challenges in creating a product of greater quality in this category? Why were the first iterations of RTD’s not all of the same standard? Oh it’s cost, we’re not even living in the same universe as most RTD manufacturers. One single product in most of our cocktails costs more than the entire finished product in most RTDs. Which is OK, we’re not trying to trade on price and never will. We make the best premix cocktails in the world – not our words, but proud to receive them – and we’ll always work that way. We spent over 200 hours creating a vegan, organic, shelf-stable egg-white replacement in our Amaretto Sour (which is evidently not aquafaba given its global awards and the fact it doesn’t smell like wet socks). We’ve spent ten times that working on our coffee brewing methods, which we continue to work on to create an even better product year after year. It would be infinitely easier to purchase “Natural Flavours” and to attempt to make a cocktail that reminds you of a real, freshlymade cocktail, but that’s not what we do.

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Bartender Competitions

RECOGNISING INDUSTRY

Talent

THERE ARE MANY COCKTAIL COMPETITIONS HELD THROUGHOUT AUSTRALIA EACH YEAR; THE CHALLENGES AND REQUIREMENTS PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND IMAGINATIONS FOR THOSE WHO ENTER. BEING ABLE TO MAKE A DRINK BEHIND THE BAR IN YOUR COMFORT ZONE ON A BUSY NIGHT MAY BE A PART OF YOUR ROUTINE; HOWEVER, STEPPING ON THE COMPETITION STAGE IS A WHOLE NEW BALL GAME. PRESENTING YOUR DRINK TO A JUDGING PANEL, KEEPING THE HAND STEADY AND YOUR POUR ACCURATE, ALL WHILE ENGAGING THE AUDIENCE, CAN BE SCARY. Competition and awards now take many different forms; from the traditional on stage performance to written exams and peer recognition. Whatever the format, we take our proverbial hats off to the brave warriors who get amongst it. You are all winners (so they say), but there can be only one. Here we a few of the major competitions that took place this year, the winners and some who went on to represent Australia on the global stage. Competitions recognising industry talent are tough, require a lot of time and commitment above and beyond the hours you’re already committing to your venue. But the rewards are irreplaceable. By gaining industry experience, making lifelong friends, and building your profile, you can cement your place in the industry and build the career you dream of.

NIKKA PERFECT SERVE

Each year Japanese whisky maker, Nikka, hosts their global cocktail competition, Nikka Perfect Serve, calling on the best and most talented bartenders from around the world to enter. To register in 2023, contestants highlighted their understanding of the Nikka range, describing how they would pair a neat serve of a chosen Nikka expression alongside a

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non-alcoholic or mixed drink. This pairing was made to enhance, harmonise, or complete the subtleties of Nikka. Ten lucky entrants are selected from each region to gather in an intimate setting for their regional competition. With the core principle of Nikka Perfect Serve based on the Japanese philosophy ‘ichigo, ichi-e’ – which translates to ‘one chance, one encounter’ – applications which highlight consumer experience were looked upon favourably. Participants were scored across service, communication, and the quality of each drink prepared. The competition is run Omakase style, which means ‘I leave it to you’, whereby contestants each have 15 minutes to show their expert whisky pour and cocktail recommendation. The judges play the role of the guest and act out different scenarios to create challenges for the bartender. Nikka Whisky Brand Ambassador, Marcus Parmenter, said “Nikka Perfect Serve is an amazing experience and blends well with our bartending landscape. Australia is a hub for talented mixologists, and we encourage all bartenders to apply for a chance to show their skills in front of an expert panel of judges.”

THE AUSTRALIAN WINNER BARTENDER NAME Reuben Beasley-Palmer VENUE Botswana Butchery C O C K TA I L N A M E Super Mandarin Soda INGREDIENTS 100ml Soda 10ml Mandarin Sherbet* 30ml Cold Pressed Mandarin Juice** 5 Dashes Yuzu Bitters *Mandarin Sherbet Recipe 200 Grams of Mandarin Peels 50 Grams Mandarin Flesh (Lightly pierced with a pin) 125 Grams White Sugar 2.5 Grams Ascorbic Acid 2.5 Grams Tartaric Acid 2.5 Grams Citric Acid - Mix Sugar and Acid together, then add into a container and cover peels with mixture. Leave the container, covered, at room temperature for 1-2 days. Once it has become a liquid, strain off the peels and bottle. ** Cold Pressed Mandarin Juice - Simply use the leftover flesh from the Sherbet and put through Cold Pressed Juicer. YUM! Paired with 30ml Yoichi Single Malt METHOD Super Mandarin Soda - 140ml Serve Take Soda, Mandarin Sherbert, Cold Pressed Mandarin Juice and Yuzu Bitters, carbonate with force carbonation rig. Place Ice Spear in Highball Glass, pour Super Mandarin Soda over, and garnish with Wasabi Leaf. Serve with Yoichi Single Malt.

DIAGEO WORLD CLASS Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year held the national finals competition in June this year. The top five were put through a series of challenges with Eduardo Conde of El Primo Sanchez, Sydney coming out on top. Eduardo then goes forward to represent Australia at the global finals next year. The top five: • Eduardo Conde of El Primo Sanchez, Sydney • Lachlan Gunner of Sourtrap, Adelaide • Andie Bulley of Saville Row, Brisbane • Alex Gondzioulis of The Rover, Sydney • Rohan Massie of Rude Boy, Hobart

BARTENDER MAGAZINE BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

A bold and refreshing pairing. The mellow peat, slightly briny flavour of Yoichi Single Malt pair together with your Super Mandarin Soda as you journey from Yoichi Distillery South towards the Miyagikyo Distillery, on the main island of Honshu where the majority of Japan’s Citrus is grown.

A full day of testing kicked off with a 73-question written exam, whittling the field down to nine. Afternoon challenges included a speed round and a blind tasting. The eventual winner was industry stalwart James Irvine, Merivale.

Glass: Highball glass Garnish: Wasabi Leaf

James won a trip to Scotland to visit Monkey Shoulder and Hendricks Gin.

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For more information, please contact steve.carr@fever-tree.com or visit the website at www.fever-tree.com/en_au

T25 BARTENDERS AWARDS - AUSTRALIA

These awards were first launched in Hong Kong before being recognised in Singapore, Dubai and then Australia. Next year is the ten-year anniversary for the industry voted awards dubbed the “Bartender’s Bartender Award.” HOW DOES IT WORK The Top 100 Bartenders are nominated by a committee of brand ambassadors charged with visiting the top on-premise accounts and working with the best talent day in and day out. The Top 100 are asked to give their 3-2-1 votes to the most deserving bartending talent based on creativity, skills, and dedication to their craft. Here are the top 25 bartenders in Australia, according to bartenders. Alex Boon, Pearl Diver Alex Gondzioulis, The Rover Alfie Simmonds, Maybe Mae Alicia Clarke, Double Deuce Ana Mitchell, 18th Amendment Andie Bulley, The Waratah Andy Chu, One or Two Anneliese Grazioli, Hanky Panky Corby Small, The Gresham Dyllan Balm, Foxtrot Unicorn Eduardo Conde, El Primo Sanchez Ellery Low, Maker Evan Stroeve, The Waratah Judith Zhu, Door Knock Kayla Reid, The Speakeasy Group Kayla Saito, The Mulberry Group Luke Whearty, BYRDI Matt Whiley, RE Pippa Canavan, ex-Mechanics Institute Rachel Mynczywor, Boodle Beasley Samuel Cocks, RE Bar Shirley Yeung, Edward & Ida’s Storm Evans, Cantina OK Tony Huang, PAR Wen Wang, Maybe Sammy

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Retail Drinks

STAMPING OUT RETAIL LIQUOR CRIME OVER FESTIVE SEASON WITH THE FESTIVE SEASON AROUND THE CORNER, RETAILERS ARE HARD AT WORK PREPARING FOR THEIR BUSIEST TRADING MONTHS OF THE YEAR. By Michael Waters, Chief Executive Officer of Retail Drinks Australia

However, there is a warning to the trading story this year, with retail crime, and retail liquor crime, in particular, rising across the country. In some jurisdictions, crime rates have surpassed pre-COVID levels. It also seems short fuses are aplenty, causing stress for staff and other customers. We have recently witnessed an alarming increase in customer aggression and physical abuse in our members’ stores and against online order delivery drivers. Unfortunately, our industry is not consistent in the way we are managing these matters. Of course, there is no uniform way to approach every incident, but currently, there isn’t even a core set of tools and principles that we can utilise to help minimise incidents and, if they do arise, to deal with them in a way that minimises the risk of harm to staff and customers. After the industry was rocked by the death of one of our own in an incident in a Northern Territory store earlier this year, the Retail Drinks board said ‘Enough is enough’ and created a new Safe to Serve Committee, specifically tasked with addressing retail liquor crime. Six months later, we are about to launch a new industry responsibility initiative – ‘Safe to Serve’. Our goal is to foster a community where all stakeholders can operate in a secure and respectful environment. The Initiative aims to transform Australia’s retail liquor industry through education, awareness, and advocacy. By promoting a culture of safety, respect, and responsibility, we can create a secure environment for our employees and

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“After the industry was rocked by the death of one of our own in an incident in a Northern Territory store earlier this year, the Retail Drinks board said, ‘Enough is enough.” customers. The Safe to Serve initiative will provide comprehensive resources and support, education tools, statistics and more. We want to empower individual business owners and their staff to handle safety and security challenges effectively. We have also developed a new store toolkit, which includes a tailor-made self-assessment tool for liquor retailers and store managers to assess the risk of their store and then scan the range of options provided to targetharden their business. The Safe to Serve initiative will roll

out across the country and joins Retail Drinks› comprehensive suite of Industry Responsibility initiatives, including Choose to DrinkWise, ID25, Don’t Buy It For Them, the Product Ranging Guidelines, and our global-first Online Alcohol Sale & Delivery Code of Conduct.

For more information about Retail Drinks’ Safe to Serve initiative, visit www.retaildrinks.org.au.

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Interview

CHRIS BADDOCK, FORMER CEO ALM Starting as the CEO of Australia’s biggest supplier to independent liquor retailers is no easy feat at the best of times. For Chris Baddock, the challenge was even greater, with the pandemic kicking into full swing just a few months after he assumed the role. In light of his recent resignation, ALM’s National Senior Marketing Manager Clare Adamiak sat down with Chris to discuss the attitudes and decisions that led to the success of his 4.5-year stint as CEO. Chris’ secret? A workspace with open and honest communication, fairness and a dedicated team. CHRIS: There is an old saying that “the summit melts from the bottom”, therefore the person sitting at the top doesn’t know they have a problem until the water is lapping at their feet. Unless you’re in contact with where it is melting you don’t realise you have a problem and don’t do something about it until it’s too late. Therefore, you must give everyone the freedom to speak openly and honestly, particularly with the CEO.

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I am proud of and encourage anybody to walk into my office and have a conversation. Some would walk in sh!tting themselves, but they would always walk out knowing they are listened to and that they can always have the conversation. It requires courage and confidence of these people to approach the CEO so I owe it to them to drop what I am doing and listen. Most of your conversations as a leader are about the business, the people, and of course the customer – not you as an individual. CLARE: You talk of decision making as 70 per cent alignment and 100 per cent commitment in a role, like a CEO, however, decision making and gaining commitment isn’t easy. CHRIS: Decision making, particularly in leadership roles can often be subconsciously made—it becomes part of your DNA—so you must avoid making a call before the debate commences. You owe it to your team to allow them to bring ideas to the debate. “The sum of the team is greater than the sum of the individuals”. It’s a well-trodden

line but hardly ever practiced in the C-suite. Having a team around you is critical – one that you know is on the bus. You need their support but also their trust [so that they feel comfortable to] share a differing of opinion and a reason why, to work through. You [also] need followers who trust you and have confidence in your ability to make decisions. The good followers—particularly in a role like this—if [they’re] part of [the] decision, will then go and execute what you have collectively decided. This is where 70 per cent alignment (it’s natural and healthy to have some in the room who disagree with the decision) and then 100 per cent commitment is critical (where even those who disagree execute as though it was their own). CLARE: Any insights into your decisionmaking process? CHRIS: I know I have a strong value set around fairness when it comes to decision making. However, this doesn’t happen overnight and needs to be built through experience and confidence in your own

ability. When I started my leadership journey I had a framework for decisions: what is right for the customer, right for the business, right for the people in the business, right for the long term, and have we got the money? CLARE: How about relationships with retailers? Do you strive to maintain a similar approach? CHRIS: I have also developed relationships with retailers, who I see as peers, who speak openly about their truths and have the courage to trust me to gather this information and do the right thing by the entire business. I have loved retailers’ honesty with me, I have embraced it and their ability to tell me how it is – even if it is with a few profanities at times. CLARE: You are a huge advocate of driving the right leadership behaviours. What does leadership mean to you and being a CEO? CHRIS: I have worked for organisations where people wore name badges with title and length of time in the business. Title, multiplied by years served, determined an artificial hierarchy: the longer you were in the business the more perceived authority you had. When I came to ALM there was no hierarchy at all. You felt like you were on the same level, you could have the important and hard conversations, and as a leader I loved that. CLARE: You started in 2019, right before the pandemic hit. Knowing you were dealing with ALM’s success and our retailers’ success must have weighed on you in such uncertain times. CHRIS: Our retailers have an up-close view of their customers and an intimate relationship with them, so you can never stop listening to them. However, it does require a balance as all retailers have differing experiences in their stores. The view of the total network, together with the up-close view, is needed every day. This

Chris and his family

balance can create sliding door moments. During COVID, I listened to an NRB (National Retail Board) member talk about one of their shoppers asking for the “cheapest beer you have got.” This insight proved to be close to the customer through our retailers is a massive competitive advantage.

recommendations we made the decision to keep our promotional program and our foot on the accelerator. That was a sliding door moment for us to remain competitive. When the consumer went to their local store for potentially the first time, they liked what they saw. People flocked to local, and they stayed.

CLARE: Can you talk to some of the bigger decisions as CEO of ALM during the pandemic? CHRIS: We all had the option at the beginning of COVID to pull back trade spend and sell liquor for more, but shoppers were shopping for value with the fear of the unknown. Off the back of the NRB

CLARE: You shared with me recently the story of your fancy pen moments: signing your contract with Metcash, terminating your contract with Metcash, a recent will even made the list… but perhaps the most significant was the Kollaras deal, requiring eight signatures and enabling the

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Interview establishment of ALM’s Independent Beverage Partners department. Why was this move so important? CHRIS: Simply because it was so right for our retailers and on-premise venues. Private label is in my background [Pinnacle Drinks] and having a strategy for it was important for independents. It is a massive part of the tool kit for our retailers – buying the Kollaras brands gave us scale quickly. Private label brings value and quality to the consumer and margin to the retailer – win, win, win. Our strategy has evolved, and we are executing with more exclusives of supplier brands rather than owning the brands like others prefer. Part of the ALM strategy is being famous for our brands – this also includes our range of owned and exclusive products for our retailers. It was hugely important for me to provide end-toend service for our retailers and venues. CLARE: We now know a bit about Chris Baddock as a CEO but how about as a person? What gets you out of bed in the morning? CHRIS: My diary before 9am is pretty sacred; taking time to prepare the mind and get into the head space for the day is essential. The day usually starts with a morning walk, and breakfast while reading the paper. It is a rhythm of mindfulness I’ve had for a while, I used to only read the sports section but more recently shifted to the business section. The routine helps me get rid of distractions. If you’ve got a massive meeting coming up that might be business altering or people orientated, you have to prepare your head space. I seem to have an ability to put things in compartments in my brain which enables me to focus on the task at hand. Post 9am, I’m pretty sociable in the office and enjoy a chat so I take a walk around the office to gauge what’s on people’s minds. CLARE: Now a few quick-fire questions… It’s the weekend: where are you most likely to be found? CHRIS: TAB: I have family in the thoroughbred racing game. Or golf course. CLARE: Favourite golf course? CHRIS: Oatlands.

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Chris and Samantha Baddock

CLARE: Handicap? CHRIS: 15.1… CLARE: And when you return in 4 months? CHRIS: 12. something. CLARE: Go to drinks morning and evening? CHRIS: You can buy me a soy piccolo in the morning or a Heineken 0.0 in the evening CLARE: Stuck on an island what would you eat? CHRIS: Pork crackling. CLARE: Favourite karaoke song? CHRIS: Stand by me CLARE: Getting serious again for a moment; passing the baton is never easy and certainly not easy for you with your health playing such a big (and important) role for you. What advice would you give the next CEO? CHRIS: After doctors told me that I needed long term rest to recover from cardiomyopathy, my mother called me and said that she was worried. It was a good reminder to stop and think about my priorities – Samantha, my kids and now the grandchildren. So yes, making this decision was extremely hard but also the right thing for me and my wonderful family. As much as it was a difficult call, which took some

time to make in the end, it was also a simple one to make. For the next CEO it is simple: be your own person, execute with your flare and style, be the best you can be, make a difference and have a great time doing it. Go after your own ideas and don’t live in anyone’s shadow.

LSI and holding myself in the blue space (constructive and achieving) is a great tool and reminder to stay in these zones. I’m not always there but strive to bring myself back to this zone as quickly as I realise when I am not. I use a model where I try to understand my competence (and others) on the subject at hand … •

When you start out you are unconsciously incompetent.

•

You find out how to do something and shift to consciously incompetent.

•

You work through the “how” and become consciously competent.

•

And finally, when it becomes second nature, you become unconsciously competent. You have to be careful at this stage as confidence can be seen as steamrolling others. Always try to seek to understand before you seek to be understood.

A Drinks Trade Promotion

FEVER-TREE'S

Cocktail mixers

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A Drinks Trade Promotion

Almost every current industry worker will quickly affirm that cocktail mixers are on trend. And, after a slight pause, a solid majority will add that the hype is warranted. Whether it’s down to taking the guesswork out of mixology, increasing time spent at the table with guests, or even reducing the clutter of dusty bottles in the cabinet, the convenience and practicality of cocktail mixers are impossible to deny. The catch? Thus far, most of the available offerings haven’t quite hit the mark. That’s where Fever-Tree comes in, a brand that hasn’t just been on-trend since day one but has consistently been starting, shaping, and redefining trends across the length of its portfolio. Founded in 2003 by Charles Rolls and Tim Warrillow in response to personal philosophy turned company moto, ‘if ¾ of your drink is the mixer, mix with the best,’ Fever-Tree’s dedication led them to become the world’s leading premium mixer by both volume and value, including a 90 per cent share of premium mixers in Australia. Hence, whilst not the first in the cocktail mixer category, customers should feel safe knowing that Fever-Tree’s Classic Margarita Mixer and Sparkling Mojito Mixer have been developed to the point of perfection. Extending upon Fever-Tree’s premium mixer range, the new cocktail mixers promise to achieve the same unrivalled flavour and quality now synonymous with the brand. How? In a similar fashion to the rest of their products, the two new bottles are created using only the finest natural ingredients, no compromises permitted. This means zero artificial flavourings, sweeteners, or preservatives and lower sugar content than competitor brands. It also means that Fever-Tree’s premium cocktail mixers won’t just do justice to those top-shelf spirits but will yearn for their use. “As was the case with carbonated mixers, the non-carbonated category is ripe with opportunity and bound for tremendous growth. It’s the perfect time for FeverTree to be making their grand entrance,” said Andy Gaunt, Fever-Tree’s Managing Director. Fever-Tree’s first two forays into the cocktail mixer market share a clear focus on freshness, suiting them to the summer months in which they first hit Aussie

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shelves. Equally juicy and zesty, the Classic Margarita Mixer blends top-grade Mexican limes with Italian blood oranges and a pinch of Scottish sea salt; no Cointreau is required. Fever-Tree’s Sparkling Mojito Mixer is also championing Mexican limes, though this time supported by earthy Moroccan spearmint. Add your favourite rum and your favourite people, and you’ll be all set for that lazy poolside barbecue. Whilst each mixer is proudly ready to go without any additional ingredients nor garnish, a cheeky salted rim for the Margaritas or a dose of fresh mint sprigs for the Mojitos will impart a bartender-level sophistication without being taxing in time or effort. Add into the mix the appropriate glassware, and you’ll likely never feel the need to go to a cocktail bar again… nor will any of your guests.

“We’re the beverage brand that has everything you need to easily enjoy a night in, a night out, or a get-together with friends and family. Our cocktail mixers can be the foundation for a really festive at-home occasion that’s both elevated yet affordable,” said Gaunt. The new mixers retail for $19.50 per 500mL bottle, enough to make five Margaritas using a ratio of 100mL mixer to 50mL of Tequila, and four Mojitos using 125mL mixer and 50mL rum. New flavours are expected to follow suit soon. “This is just the beginning of growth and innovation in the cocktail mixer category for Fever-Tree,” said Gaunt. Fever-Tree’s new cocktail mixers are the latest example of how the company has adapted itself to accommodate the premiumisation of mixed drinks. With its gin-specific tonic waters now nothing short of quintessential to the category, Fever-Tree has since expanded into the premiumisation of dark spirit mixing, with its latest release, the Distillers Cola, created specifically with whisk(e)y in mind. Voted by bartenders as the top trending and best-selling mixer as part of the Drinks International awards for the past nine years, Fever-Tree has primarily achieved its success due to an uncanny ability to understand its customers. Its focus on quality has struck a chord with the ever-growing portion of educated drinkers who are more conscious of flavour and balance, and hence, not only Fever-Tree but the very premium mixer category itself has been leaping from height to height ever since, stoking the growth of premium spirits in the process.

FEVER-TREE CLASSIC MOJITO Glassware: Tall Garnish: Mint leaves and lime wedges Ingredients: 125ml Fever-Tree Classic Mojito Mixer 50ml White rum Method: Fill a tall glass with ice, lime wedges and mint leaves. Add white rum and top with Fever-Tree Classic Mojito Mixer.

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Vodka

ABSOLUTELY

Fabulous PERNOD RICARD’S WINNING VODKA BRAND LEADS WITH FLAVOUR INNOVATION

How important is flavour innovation in the vodka category? Flavour innovation continues to be central to the strong performance of the total Vodka category and acts as a key recruitment driver of new consumers from competitor segments. Cementing Absolut’s position as the leader within flavoured Vodka remains a top priority for the brand with the range currently in good health, driving growth ahead of the flavoured Vodka category. Are there new flavours for the brand in the pipeline? Yes, we continuously aim to stay ahead of the curve and bring new news to the flavours segment. This summer, we are excited to launch the latest iteration of the range with Absolut Wild Berri set to arrive in stores across Australia and New Zealand just in time for those warmer summer months. Absolut Wild Berri combines the authentic taste of wild berries with our leading, premium Vodka and bottled at 38% abv delivering a sweet, tangy and natural taste that is Born to Mix and suitable for any occasion. What do you think about vodka being all things to everyone through flavour offerings as well as trying to emulate the flavours of competitive spirits? We are proud of the versatility that our premium Absolut Vodka’s range can provide to consumers and our ambition is to champion quality drink mixing for all as the brand that is Born to Mix. The ever-rising consumer demand for product exploration and switching across different spirit segments

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is a feature that is likely to continue moving forward, and with our diverse range of quality flavoured Vodka on offer, the brand is well-positioned to continue its positive trajectory in this space. Tell us the importance of packaging innovation for Absolut. Packaging innovation continues to be a major priority for Absolut Vodka globally as we recognise the need to drive sustainable practices behind the brand. Today, we are proud to say that every Absolut Vodka bottle is made with more than 40% recycled glass. As a brand, we constantly strive to improve our sustainable packaging innovation capability, with trials such as our first recycled paper bottle in the UK a sign of the future potential in the sustainable packaging innovation space. What marketing activations are current in the Australian market? In March 2024, Absolut will continue its long-standing position as the official Vodka partner of Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras. As a brand with a rich history in supporting the LBTQIA+ community both globally and here in Australia, we are immensely proud to continue this important partnership while playing our part in helping to drive awareness, education and meaningful impact for the queer community. On the back of the great success seen with Sydney World Pride in 2023, we are excited by this coming Mardi Gras season and motivated to bring an exciting set of plans that support this pivotal moment in the calendar year.

Craft Beer

Could

g n i d n u f crowd

be the future of Australian craft brewing?

EQUITY FINANCING CAN BE A VALUABLE TOOL FOR INDEPENDENT BREWERIES SEEKING SUSTAINABLE GROWTH AND LONG-TERM SUCCESS. IT ALSO ENABLES VALUABLE BRAND EXPOSURE AND MARKETING FOR THE BRAND WHILST RAISING CAPITAL, JUST ASK STEF CONSTANTOULAS COFOUNDER OF PHILTER BREWING. The Philter Brewing raise of $2.2 million was the third biggest beer brewery raise in Australian history (and largest in 2023), the biggest raise by any NSW business this year, and the fourth largest equity crowdfunding raise of 2023. It followed on from two big independent brewing fund raises last year, Your Mates Brewery in 2022 with $2.5 million, followed by Black Hops with $2.2 million. NSW beer producer Philter Brewing has represented a win for Australian independent breweries, achieving one of the biggest equity crowdfunding raises of the year. Drinks Trade talks to cofounder Stef Constantoulas about why this is an important win for the Australian beer sector. Why crowdfunding? It’s an expensive industry. Particularly when you’re in growth. We have been quite fortunate to be in growth since we started. The more you grow, the more expensive it gets. The only way to help facilitate that growth is to take additional investment on board. What appealed to us about the crowdfunding was an opportunity to give some of the company back to the people who have supported us from day one. The other option is private investment, and the private investment side that we investigated just wanted to take so much of our company

drinks trade 37

Craft Beer

for a smaller amount. We didn’t want to lose control of our company. So, although crowdfunding has its challenges with opening yourself up to the world, we’re giving it back to the people who have supported us from day one. So, for us, it was a win-win. Are you saying most of these investors are consumers of your product? There’s a fair chunk, but I’m not naive enough to know that there are just general investors. At least about half of the people on there are fans of Philter and family and friends. We’ve been very humbled going through the list of investors, seeing names we recognize, and just understanding how fortunate we are to have those people on board. You know, a great example is on the last day we saw Newtown Jets invest in the brand, and it almost brought us to tears

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because we love supporting the community, and it was the community supporting us. It’s quite heart warming. Did the whole crowdfunding exercise raise awareness for your brand? Yeah, definitely. Ultimately, you are pitching your business to consumers to invest in it. You need to show them what they’re investing in. And ultimately, that is Marketing 101. We saw people invest from Perth; for example, we don’t even have our beer in WA. Is crowdfunding the start of a trend toward making the craft beer sector viable? Listen, every business, if they’re looking to raise funds, should at least investigate whether this would suit them. And it’s not going to suit everyone. It all depends on that particular business’s needs at the time. It’s

certainly not an easy experience, but it’s a viable way to give back to the consumer. Is your crowdfunding success indicative of the Australian consumer wanting to support the craft brewer in a market controlled by beer giants? Yeah, I think so. I hope so. We’ve been doing a lot to raise awareness of it. There’s still a massive job to be done. It’s still over 80 per cent consume beers from those two players. I’m well aware that the consumers’ financial position plays a massive part in beer decisions, and that’s where we need government intervention to give this very small portion of the industry, but a very important part of the industry, a little bit of a leg up so we can compete on a more even playing field with those boys. We need some good news. It is a tough time. It’s constantly reminding consumers that craft beer is here and worth paying more for.

PUT YOUR BRAND IN FRONT OF AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST TRADE AUDIENCE Contact the team at HIP Media to find out how. • Greater trade awareness • Accurate distribution • Promotion and education packages across print and digital • Awards, events and on-premise activations • Aligned with seasonal promotional programmes Reach more retailers and more venues through one publication.

Contact Ashley Pini from HIP Media to find out how. ashley@hipmedia.com.au 0410 600 075

Beer

Crafting the

Perfect Ale: Unpacking the Complexities of Style WHAT MAKES A GOOD ALE? A DRINKS TRADE PANEL TASTED 90 ALES TO FIND OUT. By Ashley Pini

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In the vast and evolving landscape of the Australian beer market, the search for quality and diversity is ever-growing, intensifying the focus on the selection of craft beers both in stores and behind bars. With an increasing array of styles, names, and descriptors tantalizing consumers, the challenge of navigating this burgeoning world becomes more pronounced, especially for those new to the beer scene. To shed light on this intricate realm, a comprehensive tasting panel was convened, undertaking the arduous task of sampling 90 ales of various styles. The criteria? Freshness, palate weight, balance, and the expression of their unique varietals. But before delving into the specifics of these tastings, it’s imperative to understand what distinguishes ales from other beer types. Traditionally, beers across the globe were primarily brewed using top-fermenting yeast, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, floating on the brew during fermentation, imparting both alcohol and flavour. Ales, being top-fermented, embody this flavourful characteristic. In contrast, the emergence of bottom-fermenting yeast, Saccharomyces Carlsbergensis, gave rise to lagers and pilseners, which ferment at the bottom of the vat, imparting less intense flavours.

THE EVOLUTION OF ALES While traditional English Pale Ales stands as one of the globally recognized styles, a myriad of variations has emerged. From Extra Pale Ales (XPA) with lighter hues and diverse hop additions to American Pale Ales (APA) boasting intensified hop character and Australian Pale Ales featuring native ingredients for a unique flavour profile, the spectrum has expanded. Additionally, variations like Imperial, Double, or Triple Pale Ales use higher malt and hop quantities for an even more robust taste. India Pale Ales (IPA) originally served as a preservative with a significantly hoppy character, while the recent rise of Summer Ales, Tropical Ales, and Hazy Ales attests to the burgeoning interest in this category.

WHAT LIES AHEAD? Seasonal shifts often influence drinking preferences, but broader consumer trends hold the ultimate sway over sales. Pale ales,

IPAs, Hazy ales, Pacific, and Summer Ales provide a diverse malt selection, imparting richer and more complex flavours to the beer’s body. Malt determines the colour and palate intensity, while hops add aroma and balance sweetness with bitterness. Varying yeast strains contribute to distinct fermentation characteristics, yet the primary flavour is derived from the combination of malt and hops. Presently, the three most favoured ale styles in Australia are the traditional Australian Pale Ale, American Pale Ale, and English Pale Ale. However, the burgeoning popularity of Summer Ales and Extra Pale Ales suggests a preference shift. Richard Adamson from Young Henry’s attests, “The traditional Australian Pale Ale remains king of the Pale Ales,” highlighting its continued growth, as seen with Young Henry’s Newtowner, a 100% Australian Pale Ale, which has surged in popularity. Adamson attributes this success to the style’s “more fruit, drier malt, and lower bitterness,” characteristics that are also driving the trend toward the rise in Summer Ales and XPAs.

DECODING SUMMER ALES AND EXTRA PALE ALES (XPA) Summer Ales, originating in Cologne (Kolsch), predominantly uses pale malt, offering a lager-like refreshment with lower bittering hops and a focus on aromatic hops for a delightful aroma and flavour. They strike a balance between the refreshing cues of lagers and the flavours of pale ales, appealing to a wider audience. Extra Pale Ales, on the other hand, boast an intensified concentration of aromatic hops, yielding an “extra” fruity and aromatic profile. Cloudiness in these ales should not deter drinkers, as it often signifies rich flavours in suspension, manifesting as tropical fruit hints of guava, citrus, lychee, and pawpaw. In conclusion, the landscape of ales is evolving, offering many options that cater to diverse preferences, signalling a continued shift towards more flavourful and aromatic brews. As the beer scene continues to innovate, embracing these variations promises a world of rich and compelling experiences for beer enthusiasts.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR LION REPRESENTATIVE

NEW LOOK - SAME TASTE

TOP

15 Vale Ale IPA

ALES

Green Beacon Brewing Company

THE DRINKS TRADE TASTING PANEL TRIED 90 ALES ACROSS VARIOUS STYLES. HERE ARE THE TOP 15 IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER.

Aether

Beaches Brewery

Badlands

West Coast IPA

Jaxon Red IPA

Stone & Wood

Alien Weaponry IPA

Balter

4 Pines

Hazy

Easy Hazy

Hazy Pale Ale

Green Beacon Brewing Company

Aether

Balter

Vale Ale

James Squire

XPA

Australian Pale

Lashes Premium Pale Ale

Wayfarer Tropical Pale Ale

Pacific Ale

Lord Nelson Brewery Three Sheets Pale Ale

drinks trade 43

Wset Diploma Of Wine Journey

TALKING FORTIFIEDS, EXAM TECHNIQUES AND TIPS WHEN DRINKS TRADE CAUGHT UP WITH OUR WSET DIPLOMA STUDENT AND HEAD SOMMELIER GEORGIE DAVIDSON-BROWN, SHE WAS STUDYING FOR HER CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING EXAM.

The most recent exam Georgie sat was on Fortifieds. It was still fresh in her mind, and her brain was pumping with all wines spirited. She says it’s a fascinating category and one she wishes was more in vogue. However, she says that the pendulum might be swinging back in Fortified’s favour; from her experience at the coalface on the floor at Chiswick in Sydney’s Woollahra, it’s back on the diner’s radar. When it’s mentioned, Georgie is all for encouraging an order. It was the first exam on the WSET Diploma course with a tasting element adding another layer of complexity to preparing. Georgie embraced the tasting because she gets a lot of practice at her day job. She says it’s her strength. The theory and writing she feels is what she needs to spend most of her study time on. “Tasting, I certainly don’t fall back on it and rely on it, but it’s something that I get to

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do every day. The three wines in front of me looked exactly the same and smelled very similar.” “Structurally, they all definitely had similarities. It was a pretty tricky tasting. I wouldn’t say I was confident,” Georgie said. The wines all presented light tawny brown. Georgie picked wine number one as a Rainwater Madeira, wine number two as a 20-year-old Vin Doux Naturel from the Rhone and wine number three as Madeira. The only wine Georgie was confident with was wine number three. “That wine was a Madiera for sure,” she said. “I don’t think they potentially would have thrown two Madeira’s in the mix, so I think I’d probably had a little bit of the stress mind for wine number one.” Vin Doux Naturels is not a common fortified wine style, but Georgie says it is delicious, albeit very broad in styles and

typically Muscat-based. It can be made from 20 different varieties, but usually from Muscat, a petit grains blanc for white and Grenache noir for red. It hails from either the Southern Rhone or the Languedoc Roussillon, which represents 80 per cent of the style’s production with appellations Banyuls, Maury Doux, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes and Grand Roussillon. “It’s light, bright, delicious, particularly when it’s Muscat-based. It’s typically unaged, fermented and matured in stainless steel. It’s a sweet style of southern French wine. The Grenache ones can get pretty cool. They age them outside in the sun in demijohns, so they essentially cook the wine so you can have these really cool flavours.” It’s a difficult one to name in a blind tasting, particularly if you are unaccustomed to tasting this style. Georgie had worked

I’ve at least got the passion and the excitement. I’ve always wanted to do this course, so no matter how challenging it is, and look, it was a little bit disheartening, of course, to receive two back-toback negative results. But I can do it again, and I’m grateful I’m in a position where I’m not emotionally attached to the result.

with these wines before, so she took a punt on old tasting knowledge. “I don’t know if it paid off,” she said. Since our last interview, Georgie had news she is required to resit her first exam on Wine Production and her second on Wine Business. She says her sticking point is how she answers. For both exams, she paid for feedback and was returned three pages of comments on her Wine Production results. “I found it really helpful; my understanding is it’s my exam technique. I was too broad. You have got to be specific. I only just failed, so that was frustrating because it might have all come down to writing one sentence better.” WSET exams are strict with exam technique. They don’t want to see information that is not absolutely relevant to the question. Students who get excited about wanting to tell everything they know on a

subject can find themselves having to resit the exam not because they didn’t know the material but because they didn’t answer the questions succinctly. Georgie says despite her recent results, she is still confident she will complete the course successfully. “I’ve at least got the passion and the excitement. I’ve always wanted to do this course, so no matter how challenging it is, and look, it was a little bit disheartening, of course, to receive two back-to-back negative results. But I can do it again, and I’m grateful I’m in a position where I’m not

emotionally attached to the result.” So, what other exam tips would Georgie offer new WSET Diploma students? She said taking into the exam room a photo of her Mum and another of her partner. ‘I read something a Master of Wine wrote that said take a photo of a loved one. It really helped. When I thought I was going off on a tangent, I could hear my Mum’s voice saying, ‘Read the question, sweetie.” For the next part of the WSET Diploma with Georgie Davidson-Brown series, we will discuss all things Champagne and Sparkling.

drinks trade 45

Loire Valley Wines

SYDNEY TRADE TASTING

Bloom

Loire Valley in Full

46 drinks trade

After visiting the tasting we put together our ‘classic dozen’, chosen as a delicious way to taste your way around the region. Note that the first three wines are not currently available in Australia, and looking for distribution.

If the Loire Valley were to be summed up in a single word, it would be diverse. Arguably more so than any other French wine region, the Loire embodies diversity in its subclimates, varietals, price points and the contrasting winemaking philosophies and attitudes guiding its producers. Spanning about 800km from central France to the Atlantic, its four subregions and fifty-three appellations encompass everything from continental to maritime climates and from earthy Cabernet Franc to mineral Muscadet varietals. That’s not to mention the extent of AOC variation... Chenin Blanc alone is bottled as everything from bone dry to botrytis sticky to sparkling! With such diversity on offer and a seemingly limited proportion making its way to Australian shores, the recent “Bloom up with Loire Valley Wine” event offered the perfect opportunity to put palate to context. The tasting involved a contingent of twenty-six wineries represented by nine importers along with three Loire Valley producers actively seeking an importer to the Australian market. Visitors were treated to a suitably diverse range of wines, once again proving that the Loire is about much more than Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé Sauvignon Blanc. Whilst overall quality was exceptional, the three producers, currently without an Australian distributor, ultimately stole the show. The first of the three is Château Soucherie. Located 20 minutes south of

Angers in the Anjou region (Angers is approximately 140km from the coast), the 28-hectare historic vineyard produces Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wines from Anjou (dry Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc/Grolleau), Savennières (dry Chenin Blanc), Coteaux du Layon (sweet Chenin Blanc), and Chaume 1er Cru (sweet Chenin Blanc). Despite occupying only a few appellations, Château

Soucherie epitomises the importance of terroir and microclimate, with every expression striving to reflect the exact vineyard from which it hails. The second vineyard looking to expand into the Australian market is Lionel Gosseaume. Located a further 180km east, halfway between the famous Châteaux of Chambord and Chenonceau in the AOC Touraine, it specialises in producing

drinks trade 47

Loire Valley Wines

Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Gamay (20%) reflective of terroir and varietal characteristics. Lionel Gosseaume also produces wine from two almost-extinct white varietals, Mesliers Saint François and Menu-Pineau, playing a role in preserving and honouring the centuries of viticultural history of the region. The third winery is the coastally located Domaine des Tilleuls. A combination of exceptional schist-based terroir, cool maritime influences, and a long growing season provides a unique environment suited to many grape varieties. Despite this, Domaine des Tilleuls has smartly chosen to focus on the variety that the conditions suit best: Muscadet. Each of its three AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine offerings provides a unique perspective into the subtle variations imparted by vine age and winemaking techniques, celebrating a grape whose freshness and liveliness are ideally suited to Australia’s hot climate. Domaine des Tilleuls also offers a selection of red and white IGP Val de Loire wines. The remaining twenty-six wineries on display completed the regional panorama with styles such as the fresh, summerready Anjou rosé, elegant Cabernet Franc from Chinon, and great value Crémant de Loire produced from Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay grapes. Upon leaving, it seemed everyone was asking themselves why they hadn’t paid enough attention to the Loire before!

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Château Soucherie

Domaine des Tilleuls

Lionel Gosseaume

Our French Drop Domaine Julien Braud

Anjou Reliefs 2021 90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Grolleau

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Essentielle 2022 100% Melon de Bourgogne

Touraine-Oisly Climat No 1, 2022 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Voila Wine Co. Domaine de Rocheville

Enoteca Sydney Domaine Amirault

Saumur-Champigny Le Roi, 2018 100% Cabernet Franc

Saint-Nicolas-De-Bourgueil Vau Renou, 2018 100% Cabernet Franc

Mosaique Wines Pty Ltd Domaine François et Julien Pinon

Brix Fine Wines Domaine des Hauts Baigneux

Vouvray Vouvray Sec, 2020 100% Chenin Blanc

Touraine Azay-le-Rideau Rosé de Silex, 2021 75% Grolleau, 25% Gamay

Bacchus Wine Merchant Terroirs de la Noëlle

Mezzanine The Wine Fine Specialist Charles Joguet

Domaine Wine Shippers Domaine des Grandes Espérances

Vintage and Vine Louis de Grenelle

Chinon Les Charmes, 2019 100% Chenin Blanc

Touraine La Naine Rouge, 2018 100% Pinot Noir

Rosé D’Anjou Les Ligériens, 2021 100% Cabernet Franc

Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine Les Vignes du Bourg, 2022 100% Melon de Bourgogne

Crémant De Loire Louis Bio Brut NV 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Grolleau

drinks trade 49

50 drinks trade

Piquepoul

THE OYSTER WINE MOVE OVER SAUVIGNON BLANC AND PINOT GRIGIO, THERE IS A NEW GRAPE VARIETY POURING THIS SUMMER… By Jane Adams

drinks trade 51

Piquepoul

Piquepoul is said to have originated several centuries ago in the Languedoc region of southern France. Piquepoul country is centred around the town of Pinet in the Rhone delta not far from the major oyster waters of Bassin de Theu. But be assured you don’t have to buy a ticket to Nice to pour it with your next platter of freshly shucked Coffin Bay or Sydney Rock oysters. For Piquepoul has, sorry, piqued, the attention of several Australian vignerons and winemakers. First to discover the charms of this Cinderella grape was Mark Lloyd at Coriole in McLaren Vale. The epiphany happened on a wine trade trip in 2005 with his Irish distributor Paddy (sic) who carried Piquepouls in his portfolio. Several platters of French oysters later Mark was convinced. He would import and plant Piquepoul in McLaren Vale. Six sticks wrapped in wet newspaper from a French nursery, several years in quarantine, and some steep learning have since nurtured this once French underdog grape to his now five acres of vines. The

52 drinks trade

current Coriole Piquepoul 2023 is the ninth release, the last white variety to be harvested, all zingy and fresh with citrus blossom, lemony zest and a long, briny palate. Other McLaren Vale Piquepoul, labels include Lloyd Brothers (Mark’s nephews), Ministry of Clouds and Yangarra. Samson Tall make a blend with Grenache. According to Mark Lloyd, Piquepoul is a generous bearing variety with wideshouldered bunches that relishes warm terroir, a good climate change grape. ‘You need to take care to getting the vine architecture and crop levels right to ensure a delicate acid line and texture in the final wine.’ That’s an approach supported by another Piquepoul protagonist, Canowindra NSW vigneron Jason O’Dea who, with oyster farmer Steve Filetti, is spearheading a ‘here comes summer’ Piquepoul push. Their recently formed ‘Piquepoulers of NSW’ group, hatched one night over a beer by Jason, Steve and Aaron Mercer, is committed to raising consumer passion for

a variety they deem totally suited to our climate, the Cowra GI terroir, and our al fresco lifestyle and passion for seafood. The fact that 20% of Australians eat oysters gives added confidence. To prove the point the NSW Picpoulers trading under five labels – Borrowed Cuttings (Steve Filetti), Horner Wines (Ash Horner), Mercer Wines (Aaron Mercer), Saddler’s Creek (Brett Woodward) and Pig in the House ( Jason O’Dea) lined up a mostly 2023 selection. It was a fascinating exercise featuring Borrowed Cuttings lightly effervescent slightly saline sherbet-y sparkling expression through to the powerful 2022 Horner Reserve Picpoul pressed into stainless steel for a cool ferment, then transferred to a combo of new and old Hungarian oak for six months, only disturbed for occasional lees stirring. The tasting (at Sydney’s newest, hottest poisson place, Longshore) was memorable for the fact that all five wines were crafted by four winemakers from grapes grown on the Windowrie vineyard by Jason O’Dea, and all picked on the same cool early morning.

A Drinks Trade Promotion

INTRODUCING NEW [yellow tail] SPARKLING

Cocktails

Iconic Australian wine brand [yellow tail] has released its line-up of ready-to-drink craft cocktails. Made from sparkling wine pressed from cool harvested grapes and natural flavours from Australian fruits, the new [yellow tail] Sparkling Cocktails are deliciously light and fizzy, a delightful twist on familiar favourites.

Launched by the Australian ambassador Sophie Monk are two mouthwatering flavours: Wild Peach Bellini and Blood Orange Mimosa. Just in time for the Aussie Summer, [yellow tail] Sparkling Cocktails are convenient and easy to enjoy with friends – simply chill, pop, pour and let the good times roll. Set to be this season’s hottest drink, [yellow tail] Sparkling Cocktails are perfect for summer soirees, festive celebrations and brunching in style. [yellow tail] is renowned for its great tasting, quality wines and has been crowned the World’s Most Loved Wine Brand for six years in a row, a testament to how consumers globally connect to the brand. New [yellow tail] Sparkling Cocktails are available at Dan Murphy’s and BWS nationally at RRP $18. For more information on [yellow tail] Sparkling Cocktails or the brand’s partnership with ambassador Sophie Monk, visit www.yellowtailwine.com.au.

[yellow tail] SPARKLING COCKTAILS – WILD PEACH BELLINI

[yellow tail] SPARKLING COCKTAILS – BLOOD ORANGE MIMOSA

Sweet and juicy, with lifted aromas of white peach and a delicate floral undertone

Vibrant and fresh, bursting with zesty orange flavour ABV: 10.5%

ABV: 10.5% Drink responsibly.

drinks trade 53

Piquepoul This NSW-centred Piquepoul phase started in 2013 when the beguiling Cinderella grape seduced one-time arable farmer, now Moonlight Flat oyster farmer, Steve Filetti. He inadvertently discovered the charms of Piquepoul when visiting French oyster leases and pilgrim trails south of Montpellier along the Languedoc coast, the very same waters, oysters and wines that pricked Mark Lloyd’s palate. Filetti too imported cuttings, a single clone that went through the quarantine and propagation process (the 1000 baby vines were hardened near Bateman’s Bay) and encouraged Jason O’Dea to plant under contract at Windowrie in Canowindra. Nowhere near the sea, but the central NSW plains better known for growing wheat, canola and pulses are proving viticulturally suited to the now four hectares of this beguiling and cossetted variety that makes very moreish, lowish alcohol crisp styles. ‘Piquepoul holds its acid frame naturally and is a medium cropper. We spray clay ‘sunscreen’ to block the stoma and reduce water loss,’ explained Jason O’Dea over a platter of Sydney waterway Claire de Lune oysters. Naturally. Climate suitability is also a motivator for Aaron Mercer who claims to make his wine with ‘careful curiosity.’ Brimming with lemony lime opening notes it is ‘just a bloody gorgeous slatey style’ according to its ebullient maker, who currently takes about a third of the Windowrie crop. ‘Piquepoul works both agriculturally and commercially. It’s fermented in stainless steel and is in the bottle within three months of harvest.’ It’s perhaps no wonder then that Piquepoul is also one of the fastest-growing white wine categories in the UK, the British accounting for 60% of the French Piquepoul export market. According to Decanter columnist Andrew Jefford, Piquepoul’s allure is due to the fact it has ‘more character than Pinot Grigio. It is fresh, not sharp, the best appearing faintly salty, seaweedy, oystery. Its crispness is almost textural – crunchy, lively, vivacious and clean-finishing.’ And it’s that seductive salinity that makes the perfect mollusc match. Australia currently boasts about 15 ardent Piquepoul producers and they are constantly innovating. Borrowed Cuttings

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NSW Picpoulers

AUSTRALIAN PIQUEPOUL LABELS First shuck the oysters then pour… NSW Piquepoulers: Borrowed Cuttings: moonlightflatoysters.com. au/borrowed-cuttingspicpoul/ Horner Wines: hornerwines.com.au Mercer Wines: mercerwines.com.au

Mark Lloyd in Piquepoul vineyard

Saddler’s Creek: saddlerscreek.com Windowrie ‘Pig in the House’: windowrie.com.au SA McLaren Vale Piquepoulers: Coriole: coriole.com Dune, Lloyd Brothers, Ministry of Clouds, Samson Tall, Yangarra

Sparkling Picpoul was a hot shot at this year’s Narooma Oyster Festival selling 32-dozen by the glass in four hours, and there is a mooted Blanc de Blanc in the wings. Sparkling or still, this immigrant Languedoc grape, said by some pundits

to mean ‘lip-stinger’, apparently more accurately attributes its name to the fact that French chickens preferred and plucked ripe grapes from its dangly loose bunches (pic-poule)… Whatever its nomenclature origins, this versatile variety is surely headed for Australian summer stardom.

Volcanic Wine

SANTORINI’S VOLCANIC WINES AND ANCIENT VINES SANTORINI’S SIGNATURE INDIGENOUS WHITE GRAPE, ASSYRTIKO, IS NOT ONLY THE FLAGSHIP VARIETY OF THE ISLAND BUT ITS QUALITY AND DISTINCTION SHOW THE WORLD THIS GREEK WINE BENEFITS FROM ANCIENT VINES AND VOLCANIC SOILS.

of wine. The porous nature of volcanic soil promotes excellent drainage, forcing vine roots to delve deep into the earth in search of water and nutrients. This struggle for sustenance imparts a sense of resilience to the vines, translating into wines with remarkable depth and complexity. The volcanic influence extends beyond the soil, as the microclimates in these regions often showcase temperature variations that challenge grapevines to adapt and thrive. This dynamic environment cultivates grapes with intense flavours, balanced acidity, and a pronounced minerality. Wines born from volcanic terroir often exhibit a vibrant energy and a distinctive sense of place.

The island of Santorini in the Aegean not only has spectacular tourist-trapping sparkling azure blue ocean vistas but is dotted with vines. Nobel laureate poet Odysseus Elytis called the island the ‘daughter of climactic wrath’ because it was born of the anger of the volcano, yet it’s this volcanic anger that delivers wines of exceptional character and unique provenance.

ANCIENT VINES Santorini claims some of the oldest vines in the world. Its phylloxera-free status means some vines are up to two and three hundred years. The lack of clay on the island means the vines are phylloxera immune and on original rootstocks. Santorini is covered in vines, but it’s not immediately apparent because they are not the familiar trellised rows we are accustomed to. The island’s ancient vines are trained into a basket-shaped ‘koulouri’ protecting precious grapes from harsh winds and scorching temperatures. The koulouri vine ‘baskets’ capture the ocean mist in the morning allowing the vines extra protection from the day’s heat. It is a unique system, evolved for centuries and genius in design.

ASSYRTIKO VOLCANIC SOILS Santorini wines showcase a unique terroir defined by volcanic soils. Wines from volcanic regions boast a distinct and impressive character, and the wines of Santorini are no exception. Volcanic soil minerals like potassium, magnesium, and iron contribute to the unique flavour profiles

Santorini’s indigenous Assyrtiko grape makes up 75% of all vines on the island. Santorini Assyrtiko is a protected designation of origin crafted into a dizzying array of styles, from the very dry to lusciously sweet. The classic dry Assyrtiko exhibits crisp acidity, bracing minerality, and a distinct saline character from the island’s ocean climate. The Nykteri is a richer style of Santorini

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Volcanic Wine

Assyrtiko produced from old vines and matured in barrels for 16 months. The famous Vinsanto, renowned as one of the best dessert wines in the world (not the Vinsanto from Tuscany, but Vinsanto from ‘Santo’rini) comes in two styles, one that is a sweeter, syrupy dessert-style wine and another that leans into the acid to create a fresher style. The Assyrtiko is picked and sundried to concentrate the sugars. The result is rich flavours of quince, marmalade and dried muscatels with layers of minerality and balanced acidity.

ESTATE ARGYROS Visiting the impressive Estate Argyros is a must to taste the whole gamut of Santorini’s Assyrtiko styles. The state-of-the-art, whitewashed winery and cellar door are friendly and welcoming to any wine lover – bookings are recommended. Sitting out on the terrace

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sipping wine and admiring the view over the vines rolling into the ocean is particularly memorable. Ten per cent of all vines on the island are owned by Argyros Estate, the largest private holding with 120 hectares under vine. Fourth-generation family member Matthaious Argyros is the current custodian.

The Argyros family has produced wine in Santorini since the mid-18th century. In the 1970s, Matthaious’s father, Yiannis, worked tirelessly to establish the island’s Assyrtiko and Vinsanto wines as some of the best in the world. Today, the family invest heavily in the vines to protect the grape’s provenance. Export Manager for Argyros, Dimitrios Kekas, said, “Our goal is to preserve the primary characteristics of the variety, to express the identity of this variety. And we are working with ancient vines because only the old vines can provide us with the quality

GAIA WINES

of grapes we need to produce the desirable style of wines.” Due to its popularity and versatility, Santorini’s Assyrtiko is planted all over Greece and Australia. Peter Barry visited Argyros in 2006. Assyrtiko reminded him of Clare Valley Riesling. He was so impressed he took a cutting home. Barry planted the cutting in the Lodge Hill Vineyard, and today, it is the Jim Barry Assyrtiko. “He bought all the canes from us; he’s a friend of our winery,” said Kekas. The classic Estate Argyros Assyrtiko

2022 is 100% fermented in stainless steel and crafted from 100 to 120-year-old vines. It is bright and energetic with lashings of minerality. Kekas calls it their version of Chablis. The Estate Argyros Cuvee Nykteri 2019 is a late harvest powerful version of Assyrtiko; Kekas calls it their Meursault. It is richer and more complex. Two of the estate’s special cuvees include the Cuvee Evdemon 2019 crafted from two of the Estate’s oldest low-yielding vines and produced using the principles of biodynamic viticulture and the Cuvee Monsignori 2020 crafted from the oldest vines on the Estate.

Ten minutes down the road and on the ocean is the rustic and charming cellar door of Gaia Wines. Gaia means mother earth in Ancient Greek. The cellar door is a charming and rustic space. Outside on the terrace, guests can sit under the dappled shade of fig trees fanned by the sea breeze and taste the wine. Chief of wine production is the passionate, young Leto Paraskevopoulou, daughter of owner Yiannis, who cofounded the winery in 1994. Like his namesake at Argyros, he aimed to introduce quality Greek wines to the world. Gaia has two wineries, one in Nemea for its red Agiorgitiko variety and the other in Santorini for its white Assyrtiko. The winery exports 60 per cent of its production. Assyrtiko runs through her veins. The entry-level Monograph Assyrtiko is made in Nemea, while the Santorini Assyrtikos are produced in much smaller quantities in an extensive range of styles from a Wild Ferment to ‘Orange’ fermented on skins, a delicious Nykteri and the Gaia Vinsanto. Gaia’s Vinsanto is made with a unique rotation system that allows the grapes to dry in the sun and shade, increasing acidity retention. The high acid of Assyrtiko balances the sweetness beautifully. The Gaia ‘Orange’ Assyrtiko was a stand-out wine. It’s a delicious and intriguing wine. The colour of a Santorini sunset presents with the texture, complexity and depth of a red but offset by elegantly balanced acidity. It is fermented in clay amphoras to preserve freshness and exhibits aromas and flavours of quince and layers of honeycomb and vanilla. Déjà Vu Wine Co. imports Estate Argyros and Gaia Estate wines to Australia.

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Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards

AUSTRALIA'S WINE LIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

This year, Sydney’s seafood specialist Cirrus Dining took home the top prize at Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards’ 30th anniversary, the highest honour available in Australia’s hospitality industry for the art and science of perfecting a restaurant’s wine list. In true milestone fashion, 2023 proved the Awards’ most competitive yet, breaking submission records for a second year running. “2023 saw another record year – with a 19% increase in venues submitting their lists for the Awards across all states and territories,” said Peter Forrestal, Chairman of Judges. Established in 1993 by Rob Hirst,

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his late wife Judy, and Tucker Seabrook, Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards is a celebration not only of the expertise but of the sheer commitment displayed by sommeliers and venue owners in building and maintaining their wine lists and cellars. Bentley Restaurant Group’s Cirrus Dining stood out among a record number of entrants due to its “spectacular, innovative and thrilling list showcasing 1200 special bottles with 50 by the glass,” reflected Australia’s Wine List of the Year judge and wine writer Jane Faulkner. “Plenty of joy and difference on each page – and who else could offer an extensive mix of French Chenin Blanc or 17 Aligoté

with each desirable and perfect for this top seafood restaurant? Bravo.” In addition to the major award, Cirrus Dining also won Best Wine List NSW and Australia’s Best Restaurant Wine List – City; whilst Polly Mackarel and Nick Hildebrandt jointly received the Judy Hirst Award for the sommeliers behind the winning venue. Bentley Restaurant & Bar, responsible for Bentley Restaurant Group’s previous top prize-winning wine list in 2015, was awarded the Best Aperitif List. “While most might consider it a cliché to describe the various contests involved in the judging as ‘fiercely fought’, the phrase does suggest the close margins involved in many

of the decisions made by the judges,” said Peter Forrestal. “Out of the 192 votes cast, while Cirrus ended up the decided winner, only three votes separated second, third and fourth.” Other finalists for this year’s major award include Merivale’s Mr Wong in Sydney and Andrew McConnell’s Gimlet at Cavendish House in Melbourne. “The strength of the Sydney dining establishments was reinforced this year with four of the six finalists plying their trade there: with Mr Wong, Bennelong, and Woodcut all finalists alongside Cirrus. Gimlet at Cavendish House and Cutler & Co were close enough to suggest that Victorian diners have much in which to delight.” The 32-strong judging panel comprised some of the world’s most respected wine industry talent. Peter Forrestal headed leadership as Chairman of the panel, supported by Deputy Chairs Jeni Port and Toni Paterson MW and International Chair Bryan Julyan MS, Founder of the Court of Master Sommeliers. There were 28 judges, including 4 Master Sommeliers and 7 Masters of Wine. An even split of Australian and International judges were invited, with the latter portion heralding from New Zealand, Germany, the United States, France, Hong Kong, and Great Britain. Various new awards were added to the 30th instalment in response to the everincreasing diversity of Australia’s wine lists. These include Australia’s Best Listing of Italian Wines – won by Bistecca (NSW); Australia’s Best Listing of French Wines – won by Society (VIC); Australia’s Best Cocktail List – won by Sarino’s (NSW); and Australia’s Best Listing of USA Wines – won by SK Steak & Oyster (QLD). The industry also took a moment to celebrate its own at the ceremony, bestowing the Sommelier’s Choice Award upon Mayfair Lane’s Foni Pollit (WA) and SK Steak & Oyster’s Alexandra McPherson (QLD). Qantas Magazine’s Travel Insider’s Australia’s Choice Award, voted by the public, was won by Catalina (NSW). Following last year’s trends, the most entered categories in 2023 were Best Wines by the Glass, Best Listing of Australian Wines, and Best Food & Wine Matching. This year, it also featured a substantially

Winners and major award partners

Vintec Masterclass - Andrea Pritzker MW

Enomatic Wine Preservation System

more significant proportion of wine lists submitted with under 200 wines, a sector that ended the night with five awards in total. This reflected the shared recognition of judges that crafting a great small list is more challenging than a large one. Perhaps more significant than the individual winners, the overall competitiveness and consistency displayed in the 2023 Australian Wine List of the Year Awards clearly demonstrates Australia’s position as a world-class provider of exceptional wine and dining experiences. What’s more, the results show that the industry is continuing to progress and with a lot of momentum behind it. In 2023, 246 venues were awarded a Three Glass ranking, an upward increase from 201 last year. “Since day one, we set the bar high for a wine list to achieve a Three Glass ranking. Our first Awards in 1994 recognised nine lists with this outstanding honour, and it’s rewarding to see nearly 250 venues across the country achieve such a highquality standard of the wine list and service

excellence 30 years after we started the program,” said Australia’s Wine List of the Year founder Rob Hirst. “These venues should be very proud of all they have put into their lists, and we are very happy to bring the industry together to celebrate these outstanding venues and their talented sommeliers.” The increase in Three Glass rankings also indicates that the industry is healthily moving on post-pandemic. “It is wonderful to witness the hospitality industry on the road to recovery this year, and I’m thrilled to see a renewed dedication to excellence. The skill, resilience and vision of Australia’s sommeliers and restaurateurs is first-rate, and this is a terrific recognition of the wine and beverage lists they create,” said Kirsten Galliott, Editor-in-Chief of Major Awards Partner Qantas Magazine / Travel Insider. The winners of the 2023 Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards, presented at Woolloomooloo’s Ovolo Hotel on the 25th of September, are as follows:

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Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards

ALL WINNERS OF AUSTRALIA’S WINE LIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2023

Australia’s Best Pub Restaurant Wine List Mayfair Lane _ Australia’s Best Wine Bar List Where’s Nick The Fiona Macdonald Award

NATIONAL WINNER Australia’s Wine List of the Year - Cirrus Dining Judy Hirst Award Polly Mackarel & Nick Hildebrandt Australia’s Wine List of the Year

CATEGORY AWARD WINNERS Australia’s Best New Wine List Olivine Wine Bar The Tony Hitchin Award Australia’s Best Wine List (50 Wines) Jimmy Wah’s Australia’s Best Wine List (100 Wines) Rizla Australia’s Best Wine List (200 Wines) Restaurant Botanic Australia’s Best List of Wines by the Glass Rockpool Bar & Grill, Perth Presented by ENOMATIC

Nick Hildebrandt, Polly Mackarel

Kim Dickson and Angus Hughson

STATE/TERRITORY WINNERS Best Wine List ACT Italian & Sons Best Wine List NSW Cirrus Dining Best Wine List QLD Agnes Best Wine List SA Restaurant Botanic Best Wines List TAS Peppina Best Wine List VIC Gimlet at Cavendish House

TYPE OF TRADE AWARD WINNERS Australia’s Best City Restaurant Wine List Cirrus Dining

Australia’s Best Food & Wine Matching List Amaru Australia’s Best Champagne List Quay

Tim Davidson, Polly Mackarel and Nick Hildebrandt Taya McColl, Leanne Altmann

Best Wine List WA The Shorehouse

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Australia’s Best Club Restaurant Wine List CHU by China Doll Australia’s Best Country Restaurant Wine List Settlers Tavern Australia’s Best Hotel Restaurant Wine List Woodcut

Mel de Barra, Willem Powell

Australia’s Best Sparkling List Cru Bar + Cellar Australia’s Best Non-Alcoholic List Bells at Killcare

Australia’s Best Aperitif List Bentley Restaurant + Bar Australia’s Best Digestif List Agnes Australia’s Best Sake List Leonie Upstairs

Australia’s Best Listing of NSW Wines Charred Kitchen & Bar

Jane Tyrrell, David Collins Yukino Ochiai, Melissa Mills and Sean Then

Australia’s Best Beer List Mojo’s Kitchen & Bar Australia’s Best Cocktail List Sarino’s

Australia’s Best Listing of QLD Wines SK Steak & Oyster Australia’s Best Listing of SA Wines Uraidla Hotel Australia’s Best Listing of TAS Wines Peppina Australia’s Best Listing of VIC Wines Lake House Australia’s Best Listing of WA Wines Mojo’s Kitchen & Bar Best Wine List - Sommelier’s Choice Mayfair Lane (Foni Pollit) & SK Steak & Oyster (Alexandra McPherson) Presented by VINTEC Best Wine List - Australia’s Choice Catalina Presented by Qantas Magazine | Travel Insider

Tom Green and Angus Hughson

Australia’s Best Listing of French Wines Society Australia’s Best Listing of Italian Wines Bistecca Australia’s Best Listing of USA Wines SK Steak & Oyster Australia’s Best Listing of a Region’s Wines Stillwater Australia’s Best Listing of Australian Wines Café Sydney Australia’s Best Listing of ACT Wines Brunello

AUSTRALIA’S WINE LIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS - HALL OF FAME 2023 NATIONAL AWARD WINNERS *New Inductee* - Cru Bar + Cellar (2022) Ten Minutes by Tractor (2021) Attica (2020) Jonah’s (2017) Bentley Restaurant + Bar (2015) Lake House (2014) Rockpool Bar & Grill, Perth (2014) Wickens at Royal Mail [as Royal Mail] (2012) Pilu at Freshwater (2011) Rockpool Bar & Grill, Melbourne (2010) Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney (2009) Aria (2003) – 20th Anniversary INDIVIDUAL WINNERS - HALL OF FAME 2023 David Lawler (2018) Franck Moreau MS (2014) REGIONAL AWARD WINNERS – HALL OF FAME – 2023 Attica (Best Victorian Wine List) 2013, 2015, 2020 Blackbird (Best Queensland Wine List) 2017, 2018, 2020 Cru Bar + Cellar (Best Listing of Queensland Wines) 2019, 2020, 2021 Cru Bar + Cellar (Best Queensland Wine List) 2004, 2009, 2015 *New Inductee* - Point Leo Restaurant (Best Listing of Victorian Wines) 2020, 2021, 2022 Rockpool Bar & Grill, Perth (Best WA Wine List) 2011, 2012, 2014 Settlers Tavern (Best Listing of Western Australian Wines) 2017, 2018, 2019 Stillwater (Best Tasmanian Wine List) 2016, 2017, 2018 *New Inductee* Stillwater, (Best Listing of Tasmanian Wines) 2016, 2019, 2022 The Boat House, (Best Listing of ACT Wines) 2019, 2020, 2021 TYPE OF TRADE AWARD WINNERS – HALL OF FAME – 2023 Bert’s (Best Hotel Restaurant Wine List) 2018, 2019, 2020

Genevra Leek, Judy McMahon

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Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards

*New Inductee* Cru Bar + Cellar (Best Wine Bar List) 2015, 2021, 2022 Glass Brasserie (Best International Hotel List) 2008, 2009, 2010 The Botanical Hotel (Best Pub Restaurant Wine List) 2012, 2013, 2014 Jonah’s (Best Hotel) 2015, 2016, 2017 Love, Tilly Devine (Best Wine Bar) 2013, 2016, 2017 Members Dining Room (Best Club) 2013, 2014, 2015 [as RACV City Club] Newcastle Club (Best Club) 2018, 2019, 2021

Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron (Best Club) 2003, 2004, 2008 Settlers Tavern (Best Pub) 2009, 2010, 2011 Wickens at Royal Mail (Best Country Restaurant) 2009, 2011, 2012 [as Royal Mail] OTHER CATEGORY AWARD WINNERS – HALL OF FAME – 2023 Aria (Best Sparkling List) 2017, 2018, 2021 Attica (Best Non-Alcoholic) 2018, 2019, 2020 *New Inductee* Bennelong (Best Listing of Australian Wines) 2020, 2021, 2022

Chiswick, Woollahra (Best Small List-100) 2015, 2017, 2018 *New Inductee* Cru Bar + Cellar (Best Champagne List) 2018, 2021, 2022 Cru Bar + Cellar (Best Wine by the Glass List) 2017, 2020, 2021 *New Inductee* Ishizuka (Best Small List-50) 2020, 2021, 2022 Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney (Best Aperitif) 2011, 2012, 2017 Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney (Best Digestif) 2012, 2015, 2020 Aria (Reader’s Choice Award) 2011, 2012, 2013

Sebastian Crowther MS

Andrew Graham and Peter Forrestal

AUSTRALIA’S WINE LIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS MASTERCLASS PROGRAM

JUDGES' SPEED DATING' WINE LIST GUIDANCE PROGRAM

Education and mentoring are essential to the awards as the masterclasses offer sommeliers valuable insights and learning opportunities, showcasing an exceptional array of wines from across our country. Hosted by expert presenters Leanne Altmann, Sebastian Crowther MS, Andrea Pritzker MW, Yuki Hirose MS, Louella Mathews and Adrian Filiuta MS, this year explored Regional Must Haves – Whites, Regional Must Haves – Reds, and Wines That Age, across three different masterclass sessions.

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Speed dating was in high demand again this year, with a long waitlist. Sommeliers and judges Speed Dating sessions: Chair - Peter Forrestal, Deputy Chair - Jeni Port, and Judges Kim Bickley and Andrew Graham provided attendees with invaluable guidance and feedback on their wine lists during our speed dating sessions. Each attendee had the opportunity to probe hosts for feedback on their wine lists and gain valuable insights to grow and develop in the future.

Tasting Panel

Chardonnay

The Winemaker’s Variety

CHARDONNAY IS AGAIN ON THE UP, A VARIETY THAT SEEMS DESTINED TO BE LOVED OR LOATHED BY CONSUMERS, ON-TREND OR FALLING VICTIM TO THE LATEST CULTURAL CRINGE. YET THE SIMPLE TRUTH IS CHARDONNAY IN AUSTRALIA HAS NEVER BEEN BETTER. By David Messum

Finding the variety’s characteristics relative to the site or vintage gives the winemaker a seemingly never-ending conundrum of choices to make in both vineyard and winery in the pursuit of producing the best of their patch of dirt. You can do a lot with a tonne or two of Chardonnay. Australia has approximately 10% of the world’s Chardonnay plantings and is second only to our other great wine icon, Shiraz. We crushed 254,000 tonnes in 2023, making Chardonnay 19% of the total vintage crush and 42% of the white crush (Wine Australia National Vintage Survey 2023). That’s a lot of Chardy.

Whilst much of this volume is exported, 25% of all wine exports are Chardonnay, with the USA the biggest market at 38% value and the UK at 15%. Much of this is in the less than $10 a bottle segment. (Wine Australia Variety Snapshot 2023) Which is not of interest to us for this edition’s panel tasting. We are looking at the finer end of the Australian Chardonnay market. We pulled together a hitlist of wines we consider classics, new up-andcoming producers, and some recent show winners. Our panel tasted blind, followed by a discussion on the wines. Simply put, there were no bad wines here.

OUR EXPERT PANEL OF TASTERS DAVID MESSUM

ZOE BRUNTON

JACK GLOVER

Director | Just the Drop

Head Sommelier | Monopole Sydney

Marketing Director | Accolade Wines

MATT DUNNE Group Wine Ambassador and Resident Sommelier | Joval Group

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Tasting Panel

GOLD MEDALS

SILVER MEDALS

A.RODDA - WILLOW LAKE 2022 – YARRA VALLEY 96 Pts • Alert, grapefruit, a hint of cut clover flower. Pithy line, layered and long. Back palate balanced, fresh and complex – JG • Light in glass, fresh citrus and nectarine. The palate brings power, bacon bits, oak framing, lightness of touch, and good fruit. Feels a touch tight and lean but will open up. Excellent length. - DM

FERMOY ESTATE - RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2021 – MARGARET RIVER 94 Pts • Super alert with layered yellow fruits and length, texture and intrigue. Super structured and complex finish. – JD • Nectarine, white peach and nougat with lemon pith. Lovely soft texture with a juicy palate. Seamless and refined. Great drinking. - MD

SHAW & SMITH - M3 2021 – ADELAIDE HILLS 95 Pts • Light and bright lemongreen. Powerful nose of struck match, barrels, peaches and cream. The expansive palate has a great entry and opens up to yellow fruits and jasmine with interwoven oak and juicy lifted acidity. It’s super-bright but integrated with minerally chalk line keeping it super fresh and very Long. – DM • Trademark gunflint, matchstick, unripe white peach, lime skin. A leaner bright style with lemon zest, yuzu and wet stones and a long, intense finish with gripping acidity and purity of fruit. - MD

PARINGA ESTATE THE PARINGA 2021 – MORNINGTON PENINSULA 93 Pts • Fine oak and cream, lemon pith on the nose with a palate of juicy acidity and well interwoven to peach, lemon, floral, and lees characters. Thirst quenching. – DM • Bright, fresh citrus juice, some white peaches, chalky minerality, complex and layered, good fruit weight. Complex with good fruit, savoury characters and oak integration. It is sightly warm on the finish. - ZB

TARRAWARRA ESTATE RESERVE 2020 – YARRA VALLEY 93 Pts • Great fruit, straight-up yellow peach juice, lychee tropicals. Fresh, long and light acidity with some oak for support. Lovely fruit-driven style. – DM • Sea spray, lemon zest nose. Fresh and precise with saline, stonefruit pithy phenolics, bright and fresh citrus, and paw paw fruit character. Alluring and refreshing every sip. - ZB

EVANS & TATE REDBROOK ESTATE 2021 – MARGARET RIVER 95 Pts • Linear and fine, exact and complex with pure citrus and nectarine with purity at the essence. Texturally on song. What length! - JG • Matchstick and flint on the nose, fresh peach and nectarine, mineral zing. Super fresh with huge length. So much happening and great drinking. - MD

LAS VINO - BARRELS OF METRICUP 2022 MARGARET RIVER 93 Pts • Loads of texture on the mid palate and autolytics are quite pronounced. Soft, ripe citrus and crunchy yellow peaches. Complex. Savoury style, broad but fresh style – ZB • Richer, fuller palate with butterscotch and pink grapefruit, white peach. Honey on toast, nougat, almost slippery/slinky on the finish. - MD

PENFOLDS YATTARNA 2021 – MULTI-REGION 92 Pts • Light lemon yellow with aromas of struck flint, honeysuckle and citrus. A restrained palate with good stone fruit, citrus lead, mineral wet stone texture and some phenolic grip. Fine, juicy acid. Length. – DM • Complex appeal, nectarine, gunflint and stylish oak vanilla/ spice. Layered and complex. Mid-palate complexity but a fraction short/tight on the finish. - JG

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YABBY LAKE MORNINGTON SINGLE VINEYARD 2022 MORNINGTON PENINSULA 93 Pts • Scented, ethereal, hazelnut, yellow fruits. Taut and focused, delicate, mealy textures. Elevated acid length. Purity – JG • Aromas of orange blossom, grapefruit, lemon with a lighter framed palate, lots of detail and nice use of oak. It’s great drinking now but built to last. MD

SILVER MEDALS TOLPUDDLE 2022 – TASMANIA 92 Pts • Elegant white florals, structured citrus, clove, vanilla, and cashew on the nose with balanced complexity and good flavour concentration, lemon, grapefruit, and complex autolytics. Super balanced fruit, lees work and barrel integration. - ZB • Pert citrus with underlying flint and toned cashew accents. Lithe, direct with excellent balance for style. - JG SHADOWFAX WINES - MIDHILL 2021 – MACEDON RANGES 92 Pts • Preserved fruits, light on its feet. Seamless and lighter framed style, long finish with refreshing mineral drive. Butterscotch lolly vibes, lovely mouthfeel. – MD • Lemon yellow, fine nose, restrained initially. Bold palate, rich fresh fruit, yellow. Struck flint, battonage and long finish with phenolic grip. Powerful. - DM

BURTON & MCMAHON D’ALOSIO’S VINEYARD 2021 – YARRA VALLEY 91 Points Silver

MOUNTADAM – HIGH EDEN CHARDONNAY 2021 – EDEN VALLEY 91 Points Silver

DEEP WOODS – RESERVE 2022 – MARGARET RIVER 91 Points Silver

NEPENTHE – APEX 2021 – ADELAIDE HILLS 91 Points Silver

SCARBOROUGH – KEEPS OF THE FLAME 2021 – HUNTER VALLEY 90 Points Silver

HOWARD PARK ALLINGHAM 2022 – MARGARET RIVER 92 Pts • Super stylish with restrained power, grapefruit, edgy flint, and layered vanilla spiked white peach. Savoury, rich, yellow fruit harmony. Phenolic. - JG • Bright, saline, seaspray. Light on its feet. Solid structure. Almond meal and yellow fruit to textural finish. - MD

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Tasting Panel

Choosing Chardonnay Turning to consumer expectations, what would you choose if you were out having a special lunch, taking a bottle to friends for dinner and looking for a quality Australian Chardonnay? Matt Dunne said, “None of this lineup would disappoint. But even wines that couldn’t quite get up to Gold would be in their element. The Fermoy Estate, Shaw and Smith M3 are standouts, but the more obvious Paringa Estate’s power would be a crowd pleaser as indeed would the Scarborough; this would still over-deliver on most Chardonnay drinkers’ expectations”. Zoe Brunton noted, “You can find standouts across this vertical of wines, from the savoury edge and highly structured LAS Vino to the precise and pithy A. Rodda

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Willow Lake. As a consumer in the $50-65 a bottle mark, there are some excellent options.” In terms of regions, high scorers were found everywhere. Jack Glover said, “The Victorian bracket showed the most diversity of styles, everything from more solids-based wines to flinty and fine, and of course the cool climate, Macedon pulling out surprising power and finesse, but winners from all across Australia.” I was also slightly biased to the Victorian bracket; there was a real verve in the wines, lifted and bold in style, yet never overdone in the winery. Winemaker styles were evident, from the fine, ethereal Yabby Lake from Tom Carson to the powerful yet classy Penfolds

Yattarna. Choices in fruit selection, solids fermentation, barrel work, and how an increasingly smaller malolactic influence is at play are just the tip of the iceberg regarding winemaker decisions. Consumers have never had it better in terms of domestic Chardonnay, at arguably some very attractive prices compared to the continued price increases of imports (we’re looking at you Petit Chablis at LUC $38 a bottle). With dynamic styles from cooler climates to richer, modern Australian classics, Chardonnay offers the trade and consumers options across many drinking occasions. Not only is it the winemaker’s variety, but it is a wine for all. We want to thank the producers and distributors for the samples for this tasting.

Last Drinks

EMBRACE THE SEASON: Top 5 Trending Summer Cocktails for 2023/2024

EVERY SUMMER, THERE'S A COCKTAIL THAT PERFECTLY CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF THE SEASON, AND RIGHT NOW, WE'VE CURATED THE TOP FAVOURITES FOR YOU TO SAVOUR. HERE ARE THE FIVE TRENDSETTING COCKTAILS THIS SUMMER:

1. Hugo Spritz

2. Paloma

3. Dirty Martini

4. Limoncello Spritz

5. Negroni Sbagliato

TikTok is calling this the official drink of summer 2023. Another variant of the wildly popular (last decade) Aperol Spritz, this Spritz replaces the Aperol with elderflower liqueur (such as St-Germain) for a more floral flavour. The liqueur is then topped off with Prosecco and club soda. Throw in some lemon juice and a sprig of mint. Also known as the St Germain Spritz.

Made with tequila, lime juice, and a grapefruitflavoured soda or grapefruit juice and sparkling water, the Paloma is a light pink, citrusy cocktail that is the best thing to happen in pink since the Cosmo.

Dirty by name and dirty by nature. Sometimes, we just need a bit more flavour. For Martini lovers who want more oomph, throwing in a generous splash of olive juice to your gin or vodka and dry vermouth rounds this classic drink off perfectly. We love the Dirty Martini for its sophistication and dash of daring. For even more olive flavour, ask for an Extra Dirty.

Another refreshing twist on the classic Italian aperitivo, the Limoncello Spritz combines lemon liqueur, Prosecco, and club soda to create a citrusy spritz drink. It’s the 2024 version of the Aperol Spritz. Yellow is the new orange. And who doesn’t love lemon? Be transported to the lemon groves on the Amalfi Coast with this delicious new drink for summer.

As summer’s response to the beloved Negroni, the Negroni Sbagliato offers a fresh twist. Swapping gin for Prosecco and serving it in a Champagne flute makes it a lighter, sweeter version of the classic Negroni. It’s also lower in alcohol by volume (ABV) because, let’s face it, the Negroni is a potent drink. The Sbagliato hit cocktail lists after a meme featuring House of the Dragon actress Emma D’Arcy praising it as her favourite go-to beverage went viral. Thanks, Emma!

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