THE REVIEW FOUR STAND-OUT PRODUCTS THAT CROSSED OUR DESKS OVER THE PAST THREE MONTHS. Reviewed by Ken Gargett and Ashley Pini.
HENSCHKE HILL OF GRACE 2015 Not even isolation and pandemics could prevent the annual release of Australia’s most famous singlevineyard wine, Henschke’s Hill of Grace, even if it was a little more low-key than usual. The 2015 (AUD$865) has hit the shelves, and with it, some welcome good news. For the first time in several vintages, there is a reasonable quantity of the wine available (all things being relative, of course, as HoG is always a very small production). Hill of Grace was created by Stephen Henschke’s father, Cyril, with the first vintage being 1958. And yet, the vineyard had already
been in existence for a century – the block within the vineyard, known as the Grandfathers, is around 160 years old, some of the oldest vines in the world. The vineyard is located in South Australia’s Eden Valley, opposite the picturesque Gnadenberg Lutheran Church, which sits on land donated initially by August Henschke. It always amazes me to think that no one made a designated wine from this vineyard for the first one hundred years of its existence. But they were very different times. The 2015 is a wonderful wine, from a very fine vintage. Glorious now, it will rival those which have already passed the test of longevity. Stephen’s thoughts? “We like to
SEPPELTSFIELD ROAD DISTILLERS, SHIRAZ GIN A decade ago, a Shiraz Gin might have seemed like a magical concoction more likely to be served in one of those weird Star Wars bars than the household favourite it has become. Four Pillars from the Yarra Valley took the early steps when distiller, Cam MacKenzie, decided he wanted to do something like a sloe gin, but not a sloe gin as he was not a fan of that style. The colour and sweetness in Shiraz grapes gave him the perfect alternative. From a toe dipped in the water, production of their Bloody Shiraz Gin is now approaching 100,000 bottles. Others have followed, which was inevitable. As Oscar Wilde said, ‘imitation is the sincerest form of flattery’ (he goes on to say ‘… that mediocrity can pay to greatness’ but here, this does not apply). Those who have also trod this path can claim to have made some superb, exciting spirits. For me, the more the merrier. Keep them coming. The Barossa, seen by many as home to Australia’s best Shiraz, is an obvious place
visualise the grace of the harvest moon underlying the luminosity of the 2015 Hill of Grace with its purity of aromas, depth of flavour and silky lustrous tannins – a majesty and a mystery that takes our breath away with its grandeur.” For me, black fruits dominate, with smoked meats, tobacco leaf, blueberries, dark chocolate, aniseed, and florals. Oak is still evident, but it is well integrated. The wine has incredible length, and the balance is impeccable. The tannins are amazingly fine and silky; the texture is supple. A wine with decades ahead of it. A great Hill of Grace and a brilliant example of how good the best Australian wines can be. 99.
for distillers to source grapes for this style of Gin. The guys at Seppeltsfield Road Distillers are seventh-generation Barossans and, amongst an excellent array of Gins, have a delicious Shiraz Gin. Their latest is their 2020 ($80/50ml, 38.5%). Production has apparently skyrocketed from less than 1,000 bottles to almost 3,000, for this their 3rd release, so although perhaps not as ubiquitous as Four Pillars, fans should be able locate it. An ideal Gin for World Gin Day – 13th June. The most obvious question asked is how does it compare to Four Pillars. This might be the power of suggestion, but to me, what is obvious is how both are true to their origins. The FP has an elegance about it, and the flavours are more refined. The Seppeltsfield is rich, ripe, bold, and oozing flavour. So pretty much along the lines one might expect from a bottle of wine from each region, as a generalisation. The team at Seppeltsfield is delighted with their latest release, believing it their best. They used top-notch Shiraz from the
Western Barossa, grown in accordance with organic principles. Inky black/purple, this is plush and full of delicious mulberry and plum notes, black fruits, and a little bit of sweetness (which actually makes it a fine option to match with a good cigar – far more suitable than a red wine). Even with flavours to burn, this is nicely balanced. Soft texture and excellent length. A little different, but a joy to drink. Hard to imagine that this will not sell out quickly. Look to your favourite spirits retailer or www.seppeltsfieldroaddistillers. com.au/shop.
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