The Clare Valley

The alternative grape varieties that will re-define the Clare Valley

WHETHER WE DESCRIBE IT AS GLOBAL WARMING, CLIMATE CHANGE, OR JUST PART OF A LONG TERM NATURAL CYCLE, THE CLARE VALLEY APPEARS TO BE GETTING WARMER, DRIER AND THE VINTAGES EARLIER IN RECENT DECADES. AS A RESULT VITICULTURALISTS AND WINEMAKERS HAVE BEEN EXPERIMENTING WITH VARIETIES OTHER THAN THE FIVE CLASSIC VARIETIES THAT DEFINE CLARE VALLEY WINE.

Words Warick Duthy, The Watervale Hotel

Most of the inspiration for this work is coming from the warmer climates of Mediterranean Europe, and much of the interpretation is being done by ladies – Kerrie Thompson, Marnie Roberts, Stephanie O’Toole – or a new guard of young guns such as Colin McBryde, Damon and Jono Koerner.

VERMENTINO This amazing grape from the Ligurian coast is very versatile. Watervale grower Anthony Koerner sells fruit to Kerrie Thompson which KT makes into her ‘Bianca’, Marnie Roberts for her Matriarch and Rouge ‘Maurie’, Colin McBryde, and his sons ‘Koerner’ who call their’s ‘Rolle’ one of the variety’s many synonyms. Each of these wines are completely different expressions. We have listed all of them but remain faithful to KT’s Bianca as a wine that can delight even the most dogmatic lover of Sauvignon Blanc.

FIANO Again not widely grown in the Clare Valley, but one broadly interpreted in the region. This Italian grape originating from Campania or Sicily can be fresh light and easy drinking like the Shut the Gate, more

textural (Pikes) or even lightly oaked in Chardonnay style as produced by Mocundunda. We stock the Mocundunda for a local alternative for Chardonnay drinkers.

SANGIOVESE This red variety of Tuscany enjoys the Clare Valley climate. We have the Koerner Sangiovese on our list. It is a gorgeous mid-weight Australian interpretation of Brunello. Pikes Sangiovese has a little more weight and generosity of fruit.

NERO D’AVOLA This variety tolerates heat and drought better than most, but retains fresh fruit even if treated badly by nature. Stephanie O’Toole’s Mount Horrock’s Nero is a beautiful drink.

MONTEPULCIANO Another late ripening variety that doesn’t mind the heat. The Mr Hyde 2016 ‘The Full Monty’ won the Trophy for best red wine in the Clare Valley wine show. This is a serious wine from Kilikanoon’s experimental label.

TEMPRANILLO The primary variety of Rioja is also well suited to Clare. Reilly’s is an easy drinking style …

BARBERA Hill River make a nice light easy drinking Barbera. A lovely dry red alternative, nice chilled.

ASSYRTIKO. Jim Barry wines have pioneered the planting of this Greek variety in Clare. It is a savoury, structured white that if grown on Santorini can have a salty finish.

MALBEC Whilst this is a Bordeaux variety the inspiration for a Malbec revival has come as much from Argentina. There are some amazing stand alone Malbec’s from the Clare Valley – Matriach and Rouge’s is on our list. Others look at the Wendoree experience and have used Malbec to give Shiraz or Cabernet a fresh juiciness.

GEWURZTRAMINER This aromatic white from the Alsace in the hands of Skillogalee’s Dave Palmer is a dry but fruitful wine. Lychees and spice abound.

Five Classic Wine Varieties of the Clare Valley

Most wine regions of the world are defined as appellations due to the geological and geographical homogeneity that makes them ideal for one or just a few varieties. The Clare Valley is very different. The vineyard diversity of soil structures, altitudes, aspects and rainfall provides ideal conditions for a number of different varieties. Five varieties have dominated the Clare Valley for over 100 years. They ripen ideally in almost every year and they define the regional reputation. There is truly a surprise around every corner when you visit the Clare Valley Cellar Doors.

RIESLING. The Clare Valley is world renowned for Riesling. Warm days in Autumn ensure Riesling develops ripe fruit character whilst cool nights provides long natural acid structure. Best sellers are Crabtree Hilltop, O’Leary Walker, Vickery and Clos Clare. Riesling from the Polish Hill River region has mineral character from the slate beneath. Treat yourself to a Grosset from Polish Hill, or the Pikes Merle to see this characteristic. Riesling from the cooler Skilly Valley are approachable.

SHIRAZ There is more Shiraz planted in the Clare Valley than any other variety. Clare Valley Shiraz tends to be more savory than peppery (which you might see in cooler climate Shiraz), and more elegant than jammy (a characteristic of warmer climate Shiraz). Try the 2014 Kilikanoon ‘Oracle’ rated best Shiraz in the world by the IWSC, or the more earthy Jim Barry ‘Armagh’.

CABERNET The warm days and cool nights combined with long dry Autumns is perfect for Cabernet with classic varietal character and elegance. Clare Cabernet can show a bit of eucalyptus or a hint of chocolate that adds complexity, and generally need 3-5 years to come into their own. The O’Leary Walker, Reg and Co ‘Highside’, Farrell ‘Godfather 2’ are classic examples whilst the Good Catholic Girl is riper, richer and warmer.

GRENACHE Some call it ‘Clare Valley Pinot Noir’ given its weight and structure. Grenache in Clare can be velvety supple and delicate. It is best when lightly oaked in large format or old barrels. The Tim Gramp shows this with good structure. Grenache compositions are common in Clare generally blended with Shiraz and or Mataro. The Jeanneret is a generous version of this style whilst the Woodvale is more elegant. Grenache is also often used for Rose – Shut the Gate a great example.

SEMILLON Clare Valley Semillon can be crisp and herbaceous not unlike Sauvignon Blanc, or display more ripeness and creamy oak treatment. Whichever, due to the acid structure it ages very well, like Clare Valley Riesling.