New vintage Provence Rosé

EXPLORING ROSÉ

FORGET ALL THE STATISTICS, CHARTS, FIGURES, DATA, INFORMATION, MUCH OF WHICH IS VERY QUICKLY OUT OF DATE. WINE WRITERS HAVE AN INFALLIBLE METHOD OF ASCERTAINING WHAT IS HOT AND WHAT IS NOT – THE DAILY DELIVERIES. NO SURPRISE THAT WINE PRODUCERS SEND OUT THE WINES THAT CONSUMERS WANT. SO YOU CAN IMAGINE THE FLOOD OF KIWI SAVVY WHEN THAT TOOK OFF. BEFORE THAT, ENDLESS BOTTLES OF UNWOODED CHARDONNAY (TRUE – I WISH I WERE MAKING IT UP). THERE WAS THE MOSCATO PHASE. TODAY WE ARE TASTING ROSÉ.

These days, not much is hotter than Rosé, yet go back a decade or two and I was lucky to see half a dozen bottles of rosé a year. Now, if it is only half a dozen a week, one starts to wonder of the postie is pinching a few. Winemakers would tell us that rosé sold well at cellar door but beyond that, nothing. Today, it is the people’s favourite! Rosés from producers that most of us had no clue had rosé on their radar pop up all the time.

Obviously, local offerings will dominate but we are seeing more than enough from offshore, especially those wonderful Mediterranean Rosés, to know that consumers are not restricting themselves to either home or away.

Nor should they.

Not that long ago, local rosés were largely clumsy, too much sweetness, often neon purple rather than the delicate pink we encountered when drinking rosé overseas. Those wonderful wines, so perfect for outdoor dining when served chilled with fresh seafood or a bubbling bouillabaisse, were pristine, fresh, elegant, often bone dry and ideally balanced. It is what they did. Why couldn’t we?

Innovative makers have taken us down those roads, whether using similar varieties or adapting our traditional grapes. Every region in Australia is now offering wines of that ilk, while we see more and more of the originals imported, though naturally, most of the production is enjoyed by locals and tourists to the French Riviera. Best of all, rosé so often represents such great value.

One of the keys to the rise in local quality has been the understanding of the role that the crisp acidity of the Provencal rosés plays in providing freshness and vibrancy. For too long, too many of ours were far too flabby.

Here, the top rosés play a similar role, ideal for fresh, easy drinking, especially as we move through Spring to Summer. They are almost compulsory with some of our great seafood or a range of other dishes, from a good cheese to a plate of rare lamb. It has been noted by many that the flavours of the region reflect that enthralling landscape with the wild lavender and other florals, and their sprawling orchards. The garlic-based cuisine of the region works wonderfully well with their rosés. They are also utterly delightful when served simply as an aperitif style.

There are exceptions of course, but Provence, in southeast France, is usually considered to produce the world’s best rosés. Rosé makes for 90% of the region’s production. When we talk “Provence Rosé” we’re really talking about wines from three key AOP regions. Côtes de Provence is the largest in the region and provides 75% of the total production, 80% of that being rosé. Varieties such as Grenache, Cinsaut Mourvedre, Carignan are most popular. There are certain regulations – a maximum of 40% Carignan and a requirement that at least 60% of any rosé be Grenache, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre and/or Tibouren a native grape with only 1% of plantings but one that makes some increasingly interesting and sought after wines. The saignée method of maceration must be used for at least 20% of any wine used for a rosé.

The wines of Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOP come from the western side of the region a little further away from the Mediterranean. They capture the minerality of the limestone soils, but gain structure through the drying wind the region receives, concentrating the grapes intensity.

Coteaux Varois en Provence AOP is the final designated region, sitting between the other two regions, with vineyards at 600 to 1000 metres in altitude it has a distinctly continental climate with Mourvedre often making a greater proportion of the blend. These can give more brambly notes, have great structure and can handle robust food matches with ease.

The notion of celebrity wines have been especially popular here and helped to promote the region’s rosé around the world – the Brad Pitt/Angelina Jolie ‘Chateau Miraval’ is perhaps most famous. Bon Jovi, John Malkovich, Sarah Jessica Parker and John Legend are others involved.

Good rosé is also a wonderful entry into wine for novice drinkers and those keen to learn. The wines are usually simple, enjoyable and as mentioned, terrific value. Rosé plays an important role for the wine industry at every level.

Will rosé continue to be the flavour of the month? Nothing lasts forever (although don’t mention that to New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc producers), but rosé is showing every sign of beating the odds and continuing its upwards trajectory for a few more years yet. After all, Provence is the oldest wine region in the world, and my posty’s continued daily deliveries confirm my suspicions.

TASTING PANEL

The Drinks tasting panel convened to run the eye over the latest Provence AOP rosé releases. Mainly 2019 vintage which has well and truly hit Australia now, with a few 2018’s in the mix.

CHÂTEAU LES MESCLANCES - ROMANE 2019 - CÔTES DE PROVENCE Light pink. Jammy, stewed berry copotes, strawberry, raspberry and red cherries. Savoury and dry on the palate, with good tannin and length. 93 points

MAISON SAINT AIX - AIX 2019 - COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE Salmon pink. Sweet strawberry with hints of summer herbs. Juicy. Balanced palate, great minerality and strawberry finish with good length. 92 points CH PEYROL Pale and pretty. Light and juicy, very well balanced. Subtle berries and hints of vanilla. Savoury palate, subtle herbs and citrus. 90 points

CHATEAU DE L’ ESCARELLE - 2019 - COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE Salmon colour, intense and concentrated nose. Lovely delicate wine with structured blue fruit. Like it! 90 points CHATEAU DES FERRAGES - ROMMERY 2019 - CÔTES DE PROVENCE Light rose colour, lovely to look at. Blackcurrent on the nose and palate. Perfumed rose, gardenia and freshly cut watermelon. Long and fine, very generous. 93 points

CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS - WHISPERING ANGEL 2019 - CÔTES DE PROVENCE Salmon pink. Light and delicate on both the nose and palate. Hints of dough and confectionary sugar. Savoury palate, orange peel, lots of herbs and a great structure and intergration. 90 points

CLOS CIBONNE - TRADITION (100% TIBOUREN) VINTAGE? - CÔTES DE PROVENCE Deep pink. Brambley and orange blossom with dried lavender. Stood out with great salinity and texture. Reductive but interesting. 95 points

CHATEAU DE L’ ESCARELLE - LES JARDINES DES SECRETS 2019 - COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE Fine colour. Verry pretty pale salmon colour. Peach tea, herbal with deep orchard fruit aromas. Lots of mouthfeel hinting at the use of oak? 92 points