CRÉMANT DE LOIRE Loire’s Sparkling Success
CAVA
Cava deserves more than a brief mention. Spanish sparkling wine (it isn’t all cava, of course) might seem to be mega-brand discount stuff (Codorníu and Freixenet), neatly described by one importer as “aspiration-free fizz… in a qualitative race to the bottom against ‘prosecco’”, but visit the region, or some of Spain’s many stellar restaurants, to see how seriously it is taken and how good it can be. They, too, have political battles. 95% of cava comes from the Penedès region, south of Barcelona, but the worldwide perception of cheap quaffers did not sit well with many producers, determined to show that they made quality sparklers, comparable with the world’s best. Succession from the appellation might have been a ‘say-it-ain’t-so’ situation for many, but the battle lines have been drawn. Raventós, for example, left in 2012. Nine more left in 2019, and there have been further departures since. Most of them call themselves ‘Corpinnat’ (perhaps we’ll get used to it). It is expected others will join them. Meanwhile, many have said that they will most certainly not do so. Raventós started its own would-be appellation – Conca del Riu Anoia. To fully detail this battle (surely sparkling is a wine for celebration and joy, hence why so many producing regions end up fighting seems bizarre, but no one does a civil war like the Spanish) would triple the length of this piece. Consumers should have the choice across the board – Aussie sparklers, champagne, prosecco (from wherever it may hail), cava and others. They can make their choices based on what appeals, pricing, styles, occasion. What is clear is that the pandemic has not destroyed sparkling wine, as some feared it might. Quite the opposite, and even more exciting, there are more and more choices from around the world, and the quality has never been higher.
THE LOIRE VALLEY’S HISTORY IN SPARKLING WINE PRODUCTION DATES BACK TO 1811, CENTRED AROUND THE MONASTERIES AND ABBEY’S THAT PERFECTED THE ART OF SPARKLING WINEMAKING IN THE TRADITIONAL METHOD. THE LOIRE IS THE SECOND LARGEST SPARKLING PRODUCING REGION IN FRANCE, AFTER CHAMPAGNE, WITH CRÉMANT DE LOIRE THE MAIN SPARKLING AOP, ALTHOUGH SPARKLING VOUVRAY IS ALSO WORTH SEEKING OUT. Grown on the banks overlooking the Loire River in the Touraine and Anjou-Saumur districts, with the Loire’s hero variety Chenin Blanc as a base, various blends are created according to the profile of each winegrowing area giving a uniqueness that is entirely Loire’s. Chardonnay flourishes in the silt-rich clay soils to the north and south of the appellation and brings a fruity side to the Crémant de Loire. Cabernet Franc, another emblematic Loire Valley variety, brings a structured touch, good acidity and freshness, and is therefore an excellent blending partner, particularly for Crémant de Loire rosé. With a minimum aging of 12 months on lees, although the majority of wines see two years or more aging, the wines have a tremendous amount of winemaking quality, heritage and shear drinkability. Crémant’s have been a big trend in the UK and US markets for the past 3 years or so, however we are now seeing the same trend emerging here. Despite COVID, imports of Crémant de Loire increased 275% in volume and 250% in value (2019 Vs 2020 – French Customs), with Sparking Vouvray seeing 25% volume and 37% value increases. Crémant de Loire brings sparkling wine from an occasional indulgence, into the everyday, attainable luxury category. The opportunity is enormous. Well packaged, priced and with excellent fruit and winemaking pedigree behind the nicely foiled bottles, Crémant de Loire is a big trend to look out for as the trade emerges from lockdown and gets the party started.
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