The power games behind jousting Featuring EDINBURGH CASTLE HOLYROOD ABBEY STIRLING CASTLE
F THE YE INE O Z A G A MEMBER M
AR
THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2017
40 GREAT DAYS OUT
TAKE A TRIP TO
Fort George Doune Castle New Abbey Corn Mill Caerlaverock Castle
Height of summer A bird’s-eye view of FIVE STUNNING SITES
JACOBITES! Follow a trail of love, loss and retribution
2018 Early Bird Prices for Historic Scotland Readers & Friends
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Welcome to
HISTORIC SCOTLAND There is nothing better than to indulge in a summer of history, imagining past lives and events that have played out against the backdrop of castles, forts and prehistoric sites. With a fresh look and new regular features this issue, Historic Scotland magazine is the ideal place to begin a summer of adventure. And with more than 300 Historic Scotland properties to choose from, your journey into the past is sure to inspire. Let us fuel your imagination with tales of Jacobite ambition and loss, royal jousting and a working 18th-century mill that breathes life into Scotland's industrial heritage. Pennie Taylor visits three properties with Jacobite links on page 28. Find out about one powerful player forced to flee Scotland – and abandon the grave of his young child at Tullibardine Chapel. Historian Elizabeth Rhodes reveals the story behind the colourful sport of jousting on page 38 – discover how monarchs such as James IV used tournaments as a display of might. On page 34, Fiona McKinlay rolls up her sleeves at New Abbey Corn Mill, while the sky is the limit for aerial photographer Kieran Baxter on page 22. Now it’s over to you. Let the adventure begin.
TAKE TWO INTRODUCE A FRIEND AND
CLAIRE BOWIE Membership and CRM Manager
SAVE
Jousting at Linlithgow Palace …
SEE PAGE 47
CONTRIBUTORS
MALCOLM COCHRANE, ANGELA CATLIN
... and now Caerlaverock Castle
KIERAN BAXTER The long view (p22) Kieran has expertise in low-altitude aerial photography, web design, animation and visualisation
PENNIE TAYLOR Power and passion (p28) A freelance journalist and broadcaster, Pennie has worked for the BBC and the Sunday Herald
DR BESS RHODES The sport of kings (p38) Head of historical research for Smart History, Bess teaches at the University of St Andrews
Spectacular Jousting events Fans of the annual Spectacular Jousting tournament at Linlithgow Palace can enjoy the medieval-inspired event at Caerlaverock Castle now, too. See page 38 for the story behind the sport and visit historicenvironment.scot/events
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 1
CONTENTS S U M M E R
HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT SCOTLAND Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historicenvironment.scot Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot Membership and CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Membership Co-ordinator Pauline Brews Editor Kathleen Morgan kathleen.morgan@thinkpublishing.co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Design Matthew Ball, John Pender, Alistair McGown, Katherine Pentney, Andrew Bell Sub-editors Sam Bartlett, Sian Campbell, Kirsty Fortune Editorial Assistant Jonathan McIntosh Advertising Sales Jamie Dawson jamie.dawson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 020 3771 7221 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials. The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press. Š Historic Environment Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland.
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A miller’s tale Find out who is boss at New Abbey Corn Mill
Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014. HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit historicenvironment.scot/about-us Scottish Charity No. SC045925.
28 Tracking Jacobites at Huntingtower Castle 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
38 Summer knights
Where to go this summer
JARLSHOF (SHETLAND) P22
FORT GEORGE P49
ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL DOUNE P26 CASTLE P28 ROTHESAY CASTLE P10 DUNFERMLINE ABBEY P16 NEW ABBEY CORN MILL P34 CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE P49
REGULARS
4 THE SCRIPT News and updates from Historic Scotland sites around the country 47 MEMBERSHIP 48 EVENTS 56 TIME TRIP FEATURES
SIMON MURPHY, ANGELA CATLIN, KIERAN BAXTER
22 THE LONG VIEW A different perspective on the best summer days out through stunning aerial pictures 28 POWER AND PASSION Pennie Taylor follows the trail of the Jacobites at three historic sites 34 MY DAY AS Fiona McKinlay tackles the role of miller at New Abbey Corn Mill 38 THE SPORT OF KINGS Elizabeth Rhodes on the popularity of jousting among Scottish royalty
22 Eye in the sky
16 Explore Dunfermline Abbey and Palace HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 3
PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH AND MORE…
T H E
SCRIPT
The Engine Shed is now Scotland’s national building conservation hub
Look W and learn Explore your built heritage at dedicated building conservation centre 4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
alk into the Engine Shed in Stirling when it opens its doors in July and you will discover a world where tradition and technology collide. The building will be an innovative hub drawing visitors interested in the nation’s built heritage, from families in search of fun to enthusiasts pursuing courses and qualifications. Once used for loading munitions on to pug wagons as part of a military complex,
the Engine Shed now features everything from a 4K 3D theatre to a map of Scotland explored using an augmented reality app. The centre will run a packed programme of activities encouraging visitors to explore their built heritage, whatever their level of knowledge. Dorothy Hoskins, technical outreach and education manager, said: “If you want a fun day out with the kids there will be plenty to do, but if you want to find out more
Visitors will be able to fit the crucial keystone into an arch …
… learn to build bridges
… explore a map of Scotland using an augmented reality app
MEMBERS’ PREVIEW EVENT There will be a members’ event at the Engine Shed on Wednesday 28 June. See page 51 for details
… and discover the world of conservation
The powerhouse The evolution of a building once shrouded in secrecy BEGINNINGS Built in Forthside, Stirling, between 1896 and 1913, the Engine Shed was part of a 40-acre complex owned by the War Office. The details of its construction are unknown due to an information blackout.
1 about traditional building materials and skills there is the opportunity to do that too. Every visit will be different.” She added: “We have 4K digital models to explore, interactive handling boxes and permanent and temporary exhibitions in the main shed. We’ll also be running lectures, workshops and a diploma in technical building conservation. The centre opens on Monday 3 July. For more information visit engineshed.org
Virtual reality headsets transport you to heritage sites across the world
WORKING SHED Although designed as an engine shed it never functioned as one. Instead, it was used for loading munitions on to pug wagons used for shunting freight. The army base closed in the 1990s and the site lay vacant and unused.
NEW LIFE In 2015 Stirling Council sold the Engine Shed to Historic Environment Scotland for £1. The space was sympathetically restored and extended before its relaunch in 2017 as Scotland’s national building conservation hub.
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The Engine Shed in 2014 before its renovation began HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 5
It’s alive! Action-packed weekend lined up for Stirling
Warriors make their point at Stirling Castle
400 YEARS AGO
James VI homecoming
In 1617 James VI visited Scotland for the first and only time since the Union of the Crowns. His trip was hugely important to the country and great efforts were put into welcoming the king. 6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
C
ostumed performers will join architects and historians to take over the city of Stirling for three days of colourful events in September. History Live, part of the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, is coordinated by Historic Environment Scotland in partnership with local heritage and culture organisations. The weekend of special events and familiar favourites will kick off at 7.30pm on the Friday night with a concert by Glasgow Philharmonia and guests at the Church of the Holy Rude. The city centre will be entertained by costumed performers, while talks and walks around the area will delve into Scotland’s history. Headline events at Stirling Castle are to include CSI Stirling and Renaissance Revelry, with tastings and talks at Argyll’s Lodging, and tours of Cambuskenneth
Abbey among other offerings. Bannockburn House will also open to the public for a rare tour. The house, built in the 17th century, was used by Bonnie Prince Charlie as his military headquarters and was later a safe haven before his exile to France. The full programme will be revealed in July. History Live takes place from Friday 29 September to Sunday 1 October. For more information visit historicenvironment.scot/ historylive
Visitors unearth a skeleton’s secrets, and a performer gets into character
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History on the high street
Historic Environment Scotland is presenting a series of monthly lectures to celebrate the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, each tackling a different era. June’s lecture will deal with the Age of Worship (Christians and Vikings), with July focusing on the Age of Kings and Castles. Advance booking is highly recommended.
Guide explores traditional shopfronts
R
ushing around town on a Saturday afternoon, it is easy to miss the signs of the past. While some streets have been completely remodelled by big brands, many of Scotland’s streets still boast some magnificent traditional shopfronts. Identifying and dating elements from years gone by can be interesting in itself, but can also be important to those trying to preserve or restore their shop’s classic look. An updated Short Guide: Scottish Traditional Shopfronts explores key features of shops from when they first became a part of Scottish life in the late 18th century, exploring signage, awnings, windows and more.
LECTURES AT LONGMORE
Former department store McEwens on Perth’s St John Street
A full programme and online booking are available at historicenvironment.scot/ whats-on
Traditional shopfronts create interest and variety in towns like St Andrews
ONLINE
Visit historicenvironment. scot/traditional-shopfronts
Scots lend a hand in Cyprus
L LENNIE
Cast iron shopfront, Cromarty, by Saracen Foundry, Glasgow
●●A team of building professionals and conservation experts travelled from Scotland to Cyprus to repair the arch of the ruins of Apliki, a limestone and earth-built Venetian church, using traditional hot-mixed mortars. Maria Saez-Martinez, a conservation architect from Historic Environment Scotland, shares her experience at historicenvironment.scot/ helping-out-in-cyprus HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 7
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THE SCRIPT
NO BUNNY NO PROBLEMS A rabbit-proof fence has been erected around Chesters Hillfort, Drem, to prevent further damage to the ramparts and enclosing works, located in an open field. Access the The farmer hillfort via has agreed to this stile cease grazing for a few years to allow the grass to recover from existing damage. Visitors should note that this now means the hillfort can only be accessed by crossing a large stile within sight of the information panel. A gate is provided in the fence for works access only. BRUSH UP ON THE IRON AGE Archaeology drop-in sessions are taking place at Chesters Hillfort on 4–15 September for Scottish Archaeology Month. See historic environment.scot/archaeology
How the settlement at Rhynie might have looked
Pictish power centre Archaeology project highlights a Pictish past near Rhynie
A
team from the University of Aberdeen has been coordinating a survey and excavation to uncover traces of Pictish society in northern Scotland. The Northern Picts project made great progress in 2016, in part thanks to funding from Historic Environment Scotland, and the team is continuing to work at sites near Rhynie to collect evidence of ancient life. Gordon Noble, head of the department of archaeology at the University of Aberdeen, said: “The Picts left behind few historical sources. However, they did leave a rich legacy in the form of a series of carved
stone monuments found throughout northeast and northern Scotland. “A group of these are at the heart of our investigations at Rhynie – the name of which comes from the early Celtic ‘rīg’, meaning ‘king’. That etemology, combined with our findings at the site, suggests Rhynie was an early Pictish high-status place during the 5th and 6th centuries AD.” Some of the most significant findings provide evidence that the Picts had access to trade networks that reached as far afield as the Byzantine Empire.
The Northern Picts team carefully excavate the site
Watch the video at vimeo.com/212736108
SHUTTERSTOCK, LEBRECHT MUSIC AND ARTS PHOTO LIBRARY / ALAMY
MEMBER EVENT
Jacobites at the museum Members invited to after-hours event in capital
The landing of Bonnie Prince Charlie, 1745
An exclusive private view of the Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland is taking place in July and Historic Scotland members are invited. See the exhibition after usual hours and delve more deeply
into the real Jacobites story with talks from experts from Historic Environment Scotland, National Trust for Scotland and National Museums Scotland. Refreshments will be provided. The event takes place on Wednesday 19 July, 6–8pm. Tickets
are £14 and will be available from Monday 12 June, in person at the museum or by calling 0300 123 6789.
For more information on the exhibition, see nms.ac.uk/ jacobites
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 9
THE SCRIPT
Five reasons to visit Bute ROTHESAY CASTLE
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Construction of the pleasingly circular Rothesay Castle is thought to have started in the early 13th century, making it quite notably old. It was a popular residence of many Scottish kings, including Robert II and Robert III, and James IV and James V. Robert II’s son John, known as The Black Stewart, became the Keeper of Rothesay in 1385 – their descendants would go on to hold the earldom and marquisate of Bute.
MOUNT STUART
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The Crichton-Stuarts of Bute built a grand house a few miles from Rothesay and their legacy is evident in its decorative interior. Connections to the castle are clear, too, in the impressive Bute Collection. Tickets for the house and garden cost £11.50 (adults) and £6.75 (children). See mountstuart.com for more information.
ST MARY’S CHAPEL
ST BLANE’S CHURCH
ROTHESAY PAVILION
The remaining chancel of St Mary’s Chapel can be seen nestled beside a newer church. Its most striking parts, thought to date from the early 1300s, are two monumental tombs of a knight and a lady. The coat of arms on the knight’s tomb indicates that he was part of the royal house of Stewart.
A surviving early Christian site, a monastery is thought to have been founded here by St Catan in the 6th century. The site’s more physically prominent remains, though, are of a 12th-century Romanesque church. Located three miles from Kingarth, St Blane’s offers views towards Arran.
The international modernist pavilion was opened in 1938. The A-listed building is currently undergoing an £11m restoration, funded in part by Historic Environment Scotland. Hard-hat tours of the site may be available. Contact Ann Russell on ann@ rothesaypavilion.co.uk
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HOW TO GET THERE CalMac ferries run from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay, and combined ‘rail and sail’ tickets are available on connecting routes. See calmac.co.uk/ railandsail Local bus timetables can be found at westcoastmotors. co.uk
DEFACTO
The moated Rothesay Castle sits in the centre of the town
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THE SCRIPT COMPETITION
Eyes on the prize Test your historical knowledge by spotting which of our sites the detail below comes from … and win.
Plan ahead Heritage Awareness Day is on Friday 6 October
Fundraising fun Communities gear up to celebrate their past
S
cotland’s first Heritage Awareness Day is set up to give local projects or charities a boost as communities come together to hold fundraising events on Friday 6 October. It might seem a long way off, but the best parties take planning, so enthusiasts can look to their area for inspiration and seek out a heritage, archaeology or conservation charity that needs support. There are thousands of years of Scottish history filled with castles, heroes and villains to inspire a novel, fun-filled activity to help raise money
as part of the inaugural day’s activities. Setting up a JustGiving page, setting a fundraising target and rallying friends and family for support should add to making events a success. A good way to create a buzz around events is to contact local media, while participants can also share their progress on social media, using the hashtags #HESstory and #HHA2017.
ANSWER THIS QUESTION Which Historic Scotland property is this detail above taken from? ●●Linlithgow Palace ●●Dundrennan Abbey ●●Huntly Castle
UP FOR GRABS The winning entrant will receive a hamper from M&S containing a selection of delicious treats including biscuits, preserves, chocolate truffles and a bottle of Bordeaux.
For more information, hints, tips and resources, download the Heritage Awareness Day toolkit at historicenvironment.scot/historyheritage-and-archaeology
Three ideas to create a buzz HOW TO ENTER
See who rises to the challenge of a historythemed bake-off
Dress up as a favourite historical figure for the day
Showcase traditional skills with an arts and crafts fair
If you can identify the correct monument from the options above, visit historicenvironment.scot/ guesstheplace or post the answer with your name and membership number to Guess the Place, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 11 August. HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 13
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THE SCRIPT
Makeover for castle tearoom Edinburgh stronghold offers refreshing change
V
isitors to Edinburgh Castle are treating themselves to a slice of cake with their history in the recently refurbished Queen Anne Tea Room. With new furnishings, interior decor and lighting, the tearoom is reminiscent of the patisseries of Queen Anne’s childhood. Marketing executive Olivia Devine said: “The walls are painted a rich Dutch blue, and embellished with vintage mirrors and botanical foliage to keep things feeling fresh, modern, but still with a rugged Scottish ambience. This tearoom really is fit for royalty.”
Three powerful women from Scotland’s history
MARGARET The Queen Anne Tea Room has a fresh ambience
Were Pictish stones originally coloured? Some scholars believe it is possible that Pictish artists used mineral pigments such as yellow ochre, red lead and green verdigris to colour their sculptures. Although no proof survives, it would make sense: evidence of coloured sculptures from later medieval and earlier Roman times survive across Europe. New interpretation panels consider this question at sites including Dunfallandy (coloured below), Maiden Stone and Aberlemno.
THINK TANK
HAT-TRICK
●●Born in exile in Hungary c. 1045, the English princess became queen of Scots after marrying King Malcolm III. She died at Edinburgh Castle in 1093.
FAST FACT The Pictish Beast, an unknown creature depicted in grey at the top left of the stone below, features widely in Pictish art
MARY OF GUISE ●●Born in France in 1515, the mother of Mary Queen of Scots served as Regent in her daughter’s name for six years. She died at Edinburgh Castle in 1560.
GL ARCHIVE / ALAMY
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS
Were the Aberlemno Pictish stones painted?
●●Born at Linlithgow Palace a week before her father, King James V, died. Her abdication was forced to permit her son to become James VI of Scotland. HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 15
SPOTLIGHT
Dunfermline Abbey and Palace
7 MEDIEVAL ABBEY NAVE The most public part of the medieval church built by David I after 1128
This handsome Benedictine monastery was a burial ground for Scotland’s medieval monarchs One of Scotland’s most significant sites, Dunfermline Abbey’s story stretches back to 1070, when King Malcolm III’s wife, Queen Margaret, a devout Christian, laid the foundations of Scotland’s first Benedictine house after introducing a small community of monks from Canterbury to the site. Their son, David I, became king in 1124 and in 1128 began constructing the larger abbey church that exists today, elevating the priory into a major abbey. In 1329 Robert the Bruce was buried in the medieval choir, now under a new parish church built here in 1821. Only the nave remains of the old abbey today. The medieval church was where several generations of Scotland’s royal family were buried. Following the 1560 Reformation, James VI took control of the abbey’s remaining assets and
gave the site to his queen, Anna of Denmark. She had the royal guesthouse remodelled, creating an imposing palace. It fell into disrepair, though, when the pair left for London in 1603. Today, the abbey and palace site, with its grand Romanesque architecture, offers an enthralling glimpse into Scotland’s spiritual past and is a major attraction on the Fife Pilgrim Way, a 70-mile route echoing the passage of medieval pilgrims from Culross Abbey to St Andrews Cathedral.
EXPLORE The site is in Dunfermline, off the M90. It is open daily, 9.30am–5.30pm. The Abbey Church is not managed by Historic Environment Scotland but is open to the public April to October.
3 GATEHOUSE An entrance into the abbey precinct, with chambers above, one of which houses the ticket office. Dating from the 1400s, it had two gateways – one for carts and one for pedestrians
1 GUESTHOUSE AND ROYAL PALACE Accommodation for the abbey’s guests and a favourite residence of the royal family 2 KITCHENS Where food was prepared for monks in the refectory and guests in the guesthouse
Dunfermline Abbey
Timeline heading C.1070
1093
1249
1303
1329
After fleeing the Norman invasion of 1066, Margaret takes refuge in Malcolm III’s court and marries the king on or near the site of Dunfermline Abbey
Malcolm III is killed in battle and Margaret dies shortly after hearing of the death of her husband and son, Edward
Pope Innocent IV canonises Queen Margaret as St Margaret and her body is placed in the shrine chapel the following year
Edward I of England ransacks Dunfermline Abbey to create his campaign headquarters
Robert the Bruce sponsors rebuilding at Dunfermline, shortly before his burial in the medieval choir
16 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
DID YOU KNOW? St Margaret established a ferry across the Firth of Forth to improve pilgrims’ access to St Andrews, giving the towns of South Queensferry and North Queensferry their names
8 TODAY’S ABBEY CHURCH Built on the site of the medieval choir in 1821, it remains a working parish church today
9 ST MARGARET’S SHRINE The body of St Margaret was disinterred and moved here in 1250. Little remains of the site’s former opulence
6 SITE OF CLOISTER The abbey’s main buildings enclosed a central garden and a covered walkway connected the church to the living spaces
MARY EVANS, CLASSIC IMAGE / ALAMY
4 REFECTORY Dating from the 1320s, the abbey’s dining hall was on the top floor with two storeys of storage beneath
5 LOST EAST RANGE The location of the dormitory where the monks slept and the chapter house where business was conducted
1589
1821
1884
James VI gives the abbey to his wife, Anna of Denmark, who creates a royal palace with the monastic guesthouse at its centre
Designed by William Burn – pioneer of the Scottish Baronial architectural style – Dunfermline’s new parish church is opened for worship replacing the east end of the abbey church
The industrialist Andrew Carnegie commissions a stained glass window in the abbey’s great west window, which depicts St Margaret, Malcolm III, William Wallace and Robert the Bruce
PILGRIMS’ PROGRESS In June we are celebrating Pilgrims, Abbeys and Churches, as part of the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology. We highlight some religious properties in HES care.
WHITHORN PRIORY Reputedly founded in the early 400s, the settlement is a major pilgrimage destination, to which James IV twice travelled on foot in 1507. The Latinus Stone is one of Scotland’s oldest Christian monuments.
IONA ABBEY Founded by St Columba in 563, the original monastery survived several Viking raids and was turned into a Benedictine abbey c. 1200. Today it is home to an unparalleled collection of carved stones and crosses.
GLASGOW CATHEDRAL The atmospheric crypt offers an insight into the pilgrim route that would have governed access to the shrine of St Kentigern, whose legend informs the imagery on Glasgow’s coat of arms.
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 17
A DIFFERENT KIND OF MEMBERS’ CLUB The Royal Over-Seas League is a unique, not-for-profit, private membership organisation. For over 100 years we have encouraged international friendship and understanding through arts, social, music and humanitarian programmes. With membership benefits including accommodation and dining at our historic clubhouses in Edinburgh and London, and reciprocal arrangements with over 100 clubs around the world, we offer our members a home away from home.
HOW TO JOIN Call +44 (0)20 7408 0214 (ext. 214 & 216) and quote ‘HISTORIC SCOTLAND’, visit www.rosl.org.uk or email membership@rosl.org.uk
Edinburgh Clubhouse Over-Seas House 100 Princes Street Edinburgh EH2 3AB London Clubhouse Over-Seas House Park Place St James’s Street London SW1A 1LR
THE SCRIPT
Back to their roots The Romans brought a host of plants with them to Scotland, says Bob Tevendale
HOME HELP ●●Inform Guides on ‘De-icing salts and traditional masonry’ and ‘Flat plastering in traditional buildings’, are now available online at engineshed.org/ publications/
PICTS IN PRINT ●●The extensive collection of Pictish carvings found at St Vigeans are discussed in a new book by Professor Jane Geddes. Hunting Picts will be available later this summer, priced at £25. See page 44 for 20% member discount code. historicenvironment.scot/ shop
GRIN AND BEAR IT ●●A royal bear will be available to purchase at Edinburgh Castle and online from July, priced at £30. See page 44 for 20% member discount code. historicenvironment.scot/ shop
18 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
What have the Romans ever done for you? Quite a lot, if you are a gardener – especially if you are unfortunate enough to be plagued by ground elder (Aegopodium podagraria). Striking fear into the heart of any gardener, this innocuous-looking plant spreads rapidly by way of underground suckers and conceals a mass of spreading roots (rhizomes), which store nutrients, allowing it to burst into life in the spring. It was introduced to Britain by the Romans, who enjoyed eating it as a pot herb, rather like we would use spinach now. My archaeological colleagues inform me that ground elder is an ‘archaeophyte’ – an alien plant established before AD 1500, but after Britain was cut off from Europe by rising sea levels in about 5800 BC. There are 157 known archaeophytes now growing in Britain. Others with Roman origins include greater celandine (Chelidonium majus), found on the rock at Dumbarton Castle, and mulberry (Morus nigra), which grows at Dryburgh Abbey. Now grown as an ornamental, greater celandine was used as a medicinal plant. The sap from the cut stem was used to treat warts and corns – good for an army known for its marching prowess. Mulberry, a fruit tree, was grown widely in towns and gardens wherever Romans settled.
Ground elder uses its underground suckers to spread
VIEW FROM OUTDOORS WITH
Bob Tevendale
Other plants believed to have Roman links are the stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) and the lovely fairy foxglove (Erinus alpinus), originally a cliff-loving Alpine; now found clinging to the walls of many of our monuments, including Tantallon Castle, and Glenluce and Dundrennan abbeys. The nettle is mentioned in Gerard’s Herbal (1597) as the ‘Roman Plant’ and was recorded in Britannia by the topographer William Camden, who noted: ‘It is reported That the [Roman] Soldiers brought some of the [nettle] Seed with them, and sowed it for their use, to rub and chafe their Limbs, when through extreme cold they should be stiff and benumbed’. Sounds painful – but as any gardener will tell you, nettles have long died back by the time winter comes so would have been of no use to shivering Roman squaddies.
FAST FACT You can find out more about the nation’s green spaces at discoverscottish gardens.org
SHUTTERSTOCK
NEED TO KNOW
THE SCRIPT
The big picture
This year’s categories
1. PROPERTIES Take our breath away with images of Historic Scotland properties. You could capture them in a luscious landscape or show us an eye-catching detail
H
istoric Environment Scotland invites you to submit your best images to this year’s photography competition. Share your photos for the chance to win a £200 Amazon gift card.
How to enter
1
Submit up to six photographs – two per category:
PROPERTIES
YOUR HERITAGE
HAVING FUN
2. YOUR HERITAGE Photograph the places and buildings that make you feel proud or have special meaning for your community
2
Tell us where each photograph was taken and include your name, age (if 15 or under) address, telephone number, membership number and email address.
3
Files should be no larger than 6MB and saved using the following naming format: [property]_[category]_[yourname]. [filetype] eg Stirling_HavingFun_RobertSmith.jpg Entries by email are preferred, but you can also send your images on a CD to HS Photography Competition, Think, Suite 2.3 Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA. Please include your email address.
20 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
3. HAVING FUN Capture the atmosphere of an event or a fun day out with family or friends at a Historic Scotland property
SHUTTERSTOCK, JONATHAN CRUICKSHANK, GORDON ROBERTSON, JAMIE ROBERTSON, ROBERT SHEPHERD, ANA BARRERA GORDILLO, ANTONIO MARTIN MEDINA, DEREK YULE, JOHN PETER PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY
Send us your images by email to hs.photo@thinkpublishing.co.uk by Friday 20 October 2017.
RULES
Prizes OVERALL WINNER £200 Amazon gift card plus one year’s renewal membership
CATEGORY WINNERS One year’s renewal membership
YOUNG TALENT For entrants aged 15 and under. £100 Amazon gift card plus one year’s family membership
YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHERS We love seeing photographs from our younger readers, who are invited to enter across all the same categories. There will be a separate prize of a £100 Amazon gift card awarded for our favourite entry from someone aged 15 or under.
1. An entrant can submit a maximum of six photographs. 2. All images must be submitted as digital files 3. Digital images should be high resolution and submitted by email or on CD. Each image should not exceed 6MB in size. 4. Copyright for all images submitted for this competition remains with the respective entrants. Photos submitted for the competition may be featured in future Historic Scotland calendars, other publications or materials, or used online. Where an image is used in the magazine or Historic Scotland calendar the photographer will be credited. However, in consideration of entering the competition, each entrant grants Historic Environment Scotland a perpetual, irrevocable and royalty-free licence to feature competition images in the publication, online or in promotional material connected to Historic Environment Scotland. 5. The competition is not open to employees of Historic Environment Scotland or Think. 6. The closing date for entries is Friday 20 October 2017. Winners will be notified by 10 April 2018. 7. The decision of the judges is final. 8. Entrants must be a Historic Scotland member or, for entrants aged 15 and under, their parent/guardian must be a Historic Scotland member. 9. The judging panel will be made up of the Historic Scotland membership and photographic teams, and the editor and publisher of Historic Scotland magazine. 10. The first prize includes a £200 Amazon gift card, and the young talent prize includes a £100 Amazon gift card. These prizes are subject to availability. If, for any reason, these become unavailable we reserve the right to supply an alternative prize of similar value. Please visit historicenvironment. scot/member and view the terms and conditions page for a list of the full competition rules. HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 21
Jarlshof was a settlement from the late Neolithic era to the 1600s
Jarlshof (Shetland)
Brown and White Caterthuns St Andrews Cathedral Linlithgow Palace Tantallon Castle
22 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
THE LONG VIEW P H OTO G R A P H Y
As the AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY of Kieran Baxter is exhibited at Stirling Castle, enjoy his striking perspective on five historic sites WORDS: JONATHAN MCINTOSH
Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Settlement Four millennia of history
1
Nestled in the West Voe of Sumburgh – the most southerly bay on the Shetland mainland – Jarlshof housed a complex of communities from roughly 2700 BC to the 1600s. The site incorporates some remains from the Bronze Age, a cluster of Iron Age buildings, a large farming settlement established by Norse settlers, a medieval farm and the Old House of Sumburgh, possibly built by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, the wayward nephew of Mary Queen of Scots.
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 23
Tantallon Castle Grand medieval fortress
2 Following the settlement’s abandonment in the late 1700s, storms revealed the hidden site in the 1890s. Excavations in the 1890s, 1930s and 1950s uncovered the impressive series of stone structures that span the low headland. With its oval-shaped Bronze Age houses, an Iron Age broch, Norse long houses and medieval farmstead set against a dramatic coastal landscape, Jarlshof is an important microcosm of Shetland’s rich cultural heritage.
Jarlshof takes visitors on a journey from the late Neolithic era to the 1600s
Often heralded as the last truly great castle built in Scotland, this imposing stronghold was constructed by William Douglas in the mid-1300s. Rooted on rocky cliffs with crashing waves below, Tantallon Castle offers remarkable views over the North Sea and the seabird colonies of Bass Rock. In the 1380s, the House of Douglas split into two factions: the Black and the Red. Tantallon passed to the powerful junior line of the Red Douglases, who became the earls of Angus
and remained the castle’s owners for the following 300 years. This dynasty was often at odds with the Crown and the castle was besieged by James IV in 1491 and James V in 1528. In the siege of 1651 Oliver Cromwell’s guns caused such devastation that the garrison occupying the medieval fortress surrendered, abandoning it to the elements forever. As you wander along the enormous red sandstone curtain wall and clamber to the battlements to look out over the Firth of Forth, you can’t help but imagine what an imposing presence this bastion would have been.
Tantallon Castle was finally abandoned after it was besieged by the army of Oliver Cromwell
24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
P H OTO G R A P H Y
Brown and White Caterthuns Iron Age hill forts
4
James I ordered work to begin on a palace in 1424 after a fire at the site
Linlithgow Palace Renaissance retreat
3
Walk in the footsteps of Scottish royalty at this spectacular property. Following a fire that severely damaged the earlier residence, James I ordered a new home to be built in 1424. This resulted in the creation of a grand ‘pleasure palace’ that became a relatively secluded retreat from the bustling royal centres at Edinburgh and Stirling. The Stewart queens were especially fond of Linlithgow Palace’s fresh air and tranquillity, and it went on to serve as the royal nursery for James V (born 1512), Mary Queen of Scots (born
1542) and Princess Elizabeth (born 1596). However, the palace was occupied less frequently after James VI moved the royal court to London in 1603, following his succession as James I of England. Palace life came to an abrupt end in 1746 after a great fire blazed through the building. Nonetheless, the palace provides a charming insight into the domestic life of Scotland’s royalty. Visit the great hall where monarchs held extravagant banquets and witness the intricate fountain in action every Sunday in July and August – which, legend tells, streamed with wine during Bonnie Prince Charlie’s visit. Don’t forget to stop for a picnic by the loch to enjoy the lush rolling greenery and spot local wildlife.
Objects found at the White Caterthun in the 1800s illustrate the site’s significance in the Neolithic and Bronze Age. Each fort is enclosed by a series of earthworks including ditches, and large turf and stone ramparts. Excavation work carried out in the 1990s revealed that the Brown Caterthun grew larger over time, and its ramparts were burned, reconstructed and remodelled in a number of stages. Radiocarbon dates show that it was built between 700 BC and 200 BC. The slightly taller White Caterthun, with its arresting stone fort remnants, stands to the south-west of the Brown Caterthun. It is dotted with the footings of roundhouses and rectangular enclosures, along with a deep rock-cut cistern. The purpose of these structures is still up for debate. With their multiple entrances, it’s easy to imagine them as fortifications, but evidence of continual restructuring hints at multiple functions, including for military and ceremonial rituals. What is not disputed are the impressive views from the peaks.
The Brown and White Caterthuns sit about 1km apart HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 25
P H OTO G R A P H Y
AIR TIME
The east gable still survives almost intact with its twin towers
Kieran Baxter reveals how he photographs Historic Scotland properties from the air
St Andrews Cathedral Magnificent medieval church
5
This handsome medieval ruin occupies a site that has been used for Christian worship since the relics of St Andrew were supposedly brought here in the 8th century. Construction of the cathedral was begun in 1160 by Bishop Arnold and continued over the next 150 years, intermittently stalled by a storm in 1272 and the outbreak of the first War of Independence against England. When it was finally dedicated in 1318 – attended by the then king, Robert the Bruce – St Andrews Cathedral was the largest church in Scotland.
HISTORY TAKER Do you have what it takes to win the Historic Scotland photography competition? Turn to
26 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Subsequently, it remained the nerve centre of the medieval Scottish church until the Reformation of 1560. By 1561, it had been replaced by the parish church as the key place of worship and the cathedral was left to fall into ruin. However, the cathedral’s present ruinous state offers a fascinating glimpse into the architectural grandeur of its heyday. Highlights include the east gable of the presbytery, the cloister’s ruined chapter house and the restored stone-vaulted undercrofts that now house the cathedral museum. No visit is complete without scaling St Rule’s Tower, the perfect vantage point from which to experience majestic views over the streets, sea and sands of the picturesque St Andrews.
page 20 to find out how you can take up the challenge. We would like you to capture the essence of Scotland’s
most striking historic properties. All it takes is photographing a magical moment at a favourite site.
Usually properties are selected for research purposes if the interpretation needs updating or simply because they are visually striking. I work closely with Historic Environment Scotland (HES) to understand what the images need to achieve. They should illustrate a site’s archaeological features and convey the atmosphere appropriate to the stories behind it. This involves much safety and logistical planning to work out the best angles and lighting conditions. Everything is weather dependent which can mean waiting weeks for ideal conditions. Depending on the perspective needed I’ll use a pole, kite, drone or light aircraft to capture images. When higher altitudes are required I get to photograph in a light aircraft. You can see the results in Flights into Scotland’s Past, an exhibition of my work at Stirling Castle. Adhering to the safety guidelines of HES is crucial. Low-altitude aerial photography needs careful attention to the safety and privacy implications
of using camera equipment aloft in public spaces. My main concern is operating far away from people, obstructions and other airspace users. Jarlshof is my favourite site to photograph because of its dramatic scenery and fascinating story depicting more than 4,000 years of habitation. Aerial views provide a sense of the three-
Aerial photographer Kieran Baxter
dimensional form of the sites. There’s a particular thrill in seeing familiar landscapes from a novel perspective. It’s satisfying to witness people connecting their own experiences with my aerial photographs and being inspired to explore more of these historic properties. Flights into Scotland’s Past is at Stirling Castle until 31 October. Visit stirlingcastle. gov.uk/kieranbaxter
HOME OF
SCOTTISH ROYAL HISTORY
Enjoy free re-admission for a year by asking us to treat your ticket purchase as a donation.
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SCOTLAND 2018 Tours British Isles
Scotland: Dumfries and Galloway England: Lake District and Roman city of Chester Wales: Snowdonia National Park, Welsh Castles Ireland: Dublin, Newgrange, Belfast
May 11-23, 2018 • 12 Nights • $5,395
15th Annual Outlander Tour® Based on the book series by Diana Gabaldon. Time travel, history, intrigue, passion, loyalty, and pride – the 18th-century Highlands.
June 24-July 4, 2018 • 10 Nights • $4,695 September 16-23, 2018 • 7 Nights • $3,695
2017 Tours Lords of the Isles
Isles of Lewis, Harris, Skye, Mull, Iona Western Scotland and the islands ruled by the Lords of the Isles until the 15th Century. Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
Haunted Scotland
Ghost hunting in the Highlands and Lowlands
October 24-November 1 • 8 Nights • $3,595
Hogmanay Celebration
Haunted Scotland
New Year’s Eve in Scotland Ring in the New Year with a traditional Highland celebration at the award-winning 18th-century Culloden House. Includes 3 nights in Edinburgh.
Oct 24-Nov 1, 2018 • 8 Nights • $3,795
Deluxe escorted tours 18-guest maximum judy@celticjourneys.us
August 11-23, 2018 • 12 Nights • $5,395 Ghost hunting in the Highlands and Lowlands Explore chapels, castles, cathedrals, battlefields, and Kilmartin Glen’s ancient monuments. Plus the Tam O’Shanter Experience with Rabbie Burns!
December 29-January 4 • 6 Nights • $3,195
Call us at 703.941.6455 • www.CelticJourneys.us
OUT AND ABOUT
Doune Castle: former Jacobite garrison
POWER
PA
AND PHOTOGRAPHS ANGELA CATLIN
28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Prince Charles Edward Stuart, 1739, by Louis Gabriel Blanchet
epic story of power and passion is to follow in their footsteps. The exhibition is part of a trail showcasing sites across Scotland with links to the Jacobites – from Edinburgh Castle to Culloden Battlefield. We pick up the Jacobite trail at three Historic Scotland properties with links to Lord George Murray – Huntingtower and Doune Castles, and Tullibardine Chapel.
ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST
T
he romance of the Jacobites continues to resonate in Scotland almost three centuries after the demise of the political movement on Culloden moor near Inverness. There, on 16 April 1746, during the last battle to be fought on British soil, the ambitions of the Catholic Stuart dynasty to retake the crown from the Protestant House of Hanover were finally thwarted. I remember my father, proud to trace his lineage back to the clan MacNeil of Barra, telling us as children about the impact on our people of the ill-fated 1745 uprising led by the ‘Young Pretender’ Charles Edward Stuart, otherwise known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. Following the defeat at Culloden, and fearing brutal reprisals at the hands of victorious government forces, it is said that our ancestors fled the Western Isles, changed their name to the anglicised Taylor, and disappeared into lowland mines to eke out a low profile existence. Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites, a major exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, tells of the rebellion through artefacts. Another way to connect with the characters behind this
OUT AND ABOUT
As a Jacobite trail journeys into Scotland’s turbulent past, Pennie Taylor visits three sites with links to an epic story
ASSION HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 29
OUT AND ABOUT
Huntingtower Castle
Huntingtower Castle has been an elegant backdrop to dramatic events
LORDLY RESIDENCE
favour after opposing Charles Edward’s decision to make a stand at Culloden. After final defeat at Culloden, Charles Edward abandoned the cause and Lord George fled to the continent, where he died 14 years later. Huntingtower was an elegant backdrop to dramatic events during its 300 years as home to some of Scotland’s most powerful people. It was originally two towers set side by side – the ninefoot gap between them was known as the maiden’s leap. The lord’s hall in the east tower has paintings dating from the 1540s that show leaping hinds, coursing hare and a pagan ‘green man’. Mary Queen of Scots and Lord Darnley stayed here during their
honeymoon, while Mary’s son, James VI, was kept under house arrest before the Ruthvens fell from grace, suffering dispossession in 1600. When the Murrays took over the castle was adapted to look more like a regular country mansion. It is likely Lord George was born in the west tower, in a bedchamber with a large fireplace, garderobe latrine and windows looking out over what would have been gardens. These days it is possible to gaze up through several levels missing their floors, past windows that still cast warm light on opposing walls. Stone hearths seem to hang in mid-air, leading the eye to a dovecot at the top inhabited now by bats including pipistrelles and Natterer’s.
ANGELA CATLIN, NATIONAL LIBRARY OF SCOTLAND, IAN G DAGNALL / ALAMY, GL ARCHIVE / ALAMY, PAINTING / ALAMY
O
ur starting point is Huntingtower Castle, birthplace in 1694 of Lord George Murray, a key player in the Jacobite risings. The military commander of Prince Charles Edward Stuart during the 1745 campaign, Lord Murray was – like his brother William, Marquis of Tullibardine – also influential in the 1715 and 1719 risings. Standing in Huntingtower Castle on the outskirts of Perth you can imagine its walls once resounded with the sounds of division. Its owner the Duke of Atholl, a government supporter, found himself in opposition to his Jacobite sons George and William before his death in 1724. A third son was to fight with government forces at the Battle of Prestonpans in 1745. Huntingtower Castle was garrisoned by Jacobites in the 1715 campaign, as noted in a letter from Atholl to the king seeking restitution for damage done to it. Atholl temporarily imprisoned Jacobite supporters at the castle in 1716. Returning from exile in 1724 after the failure of the 1715 and 1719 risings, Lord George kept close to Huntingtower until his pardon in 1725. He then appears to have made William’s home, Tullibardine Castle, his main residence. William, largely in exile after the 1715 rising, died shortly after his capture during the ’45. In 1746 Lord George defeated an English army at Falkirk but fell out of
The Jacobite journey FEBRUARY 1685 Stuart King Charles II dies and is succeeded by his Catholic brother James VII and II
NOVEMBER 1688 Dutch prince William III of Orange invades England on the behest of James’s Protestant opponents 30 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
DECEMBER 1688 King James VII of Scotland and II of England flees to France
AUGUST 1691 William of Orange offers to pardon Jacobites in the Scottish Highlands if they swear allegiance to him
JULY 1689 The Jacobites – supporters of the exiled King James – defeat government forces at the Battle of Killiecrankie
SEPTEMBER 1701 James VIII and III is recognised by the French as rightful king of Scotland. He is dubbed the ‘Old Pretender’
JUNE 1701 Act of Settlement by the English parliament says the throne should pass through Hanover line to Protestants only
MARCH 1702 Protestant Queen Anne succeeds William II to the thrones of Scotland and England
MAY 1707 Acts of Union unite the kingdoms of England and Scotland
SEPTEMBER 1715 Jacobite uprising in Scotland and northern England
AUGUST 1714 Queen Anne dies without an heir and George, Elector of Hanover, is crowned King George
DECEMBER 1715 ‘Old Pretender’ James Francis Edward Stuart, lands at Peterhead and joins the Jacobites at Perth
OUT AND ABOUT
Pennie Taylor discovers the castle which was transformed by the Murray family
Now a single building, the castle was once two separate towers
FEBRUARY 1716 The Old Pretender leaves for France and the Jacobites disband
DECEMBER 1720 Charles Edward Stuart, the ‘Young Pretender’, is born
JUNE 1727 British king George I is succeeded by his son, King George II
Tullibardine Chapel CHARMING 1500S CHURCH
A
vociferous opponent of the 1707 a skull and an hourglass. Inside, the Acts of Union that created the Murray coat of arms is chiselled United Kingdom of Great alongside the marks of medieval Britain, Lord George Murray joined the masons. One little grave marker, tucked Jacobite rising of 1715. Following its into a corner of the south transept, failure he fled to the continent, returning depicts a cherub. Metal rings set into to Scotland when his father, the first great stone slabs in the floor indicate the Duke of Atholl, died in 1724. Four years vaults where Murrays of yore were later, having received a royal pardon, interred. Legend has it that one of them Lord George married Amelia (née lost his arm in battle, and it was put in Murray) and they settled at its own small coffin to await the Tullibardine Castle to raise their rest of the man who followed family. The property belonged to three years later. Lord George’s elder brother, It was here in 1740 that William, who was mostly in Lord George and his wife exile after the 1715 rising and laid to rest their young child Lord George died in the Tower of London who had died of smallpox. Murray shortly after capture in the ’45. They intended to be buried All that remains of Tullibardine is here too, but history intervened a simple medieval chapel that somehow and only Amelia was interred in the survived the Reformation relatively chapel. Following the ’45, Lord George unscathed. Compact and charming, with again fled to Europe, never to return. He crow-stepped gables and a tower, it sits died in Medemblik, the Netherlands, in shielded by Scots pines, skirted by a 1760 aged 66. Visitors still pay respects stream, surrounded by fields and at his grave there, leaving sprigs of against a backdrop of rolling hills. Culloden heather to honour his memory. Built as a collegiate chapel, it would have originally housed a small community of clerics, contracted to pray for the souls of the landowner and his family; where crows caw today would once have echoed to plainsong. An enchanting spot, Tullibardine has Tullibardine served as a location for the television Chapel, burial series Outlander. Old gravestones in the place of the grounds bear carvings – one of a blade Murrays and arrowhead, another crossed bones,
SEPTEMBER 1745 Jacobites take Edinburgh, defeat British army at Prestonpans and move into England
JULY 1745 Charles Edward Stuart, Bonnie Prince Charlie, lands in Scotland and the last Jacobite rising begins
NOVEMBER 1745 Carlisle falls to the Jacobites
DECEMBER 1745 Reaching Derby the Jacobites hear a false report of a British army ahead. Charles Edward Stuart orders retreat, anticipating help from the French. None materialises
JANUARY 1746 Jacobites fail to capture Stirling Castle, but achieve victory at Falkirk and take Inverness
APRIL 1746 Against advice, Charles Edward Stuart fights the Battle of Culloden and loses to a British army led by the Duke of Cumberland
JUNE 1746 Having escaped Culloden, Charles flees to Skye and then to France
JANUARY 1766 Death of the ‘Old Pretender’
JANUARY 1788 Death of the ‘Young Pretender’
JULY 1807 Death of Henry Stuart, younger brother of the ‘Young Pretender’, the last Stuart in the male line
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 31
OUT AND ABOUT
Doune Castle MEDIEVAL COURTYARD STRONGHOLD
W
here the Ardoch Burn meets the River Teith, about 17 miles south of Tullibardine, stands Doune Castle, a magnificent 14th-century stronghold that became the family home of the Dukes of Albany. Garrisoned by the Jacobites during the ’45, it also served as a prison for government troops captured at the Battle of Falkirk. One night, under cover of darkness, a group of prisoners including author John Hume and Church of Scotland minister John Witherspoon took part in a daring escape. Held high in the kitchen tower, in rooms thought to have once housed Mary Queen of Scots, they tied together bedsheets and climbed down the forbidding curtain wall to make their break for freedom. Having
32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
A support for the great hall roof
Tool markings beside an alcove
crossed the Atlantic, Witherspoon went on to become one of the signatories of the American Declaration of Independence. Less lucky were the miscreants held in the castle’s notorious pit prison, beneath the great hall, where the presiding lord would cruelly consign those who fell foul of his justice. The trapdoor through which prisoners were unceremoniously dropped still provokes a shudder. Doune is one of the best-preserved late-medieval castles in Scotland, and its dashing good looks have led to it being used as a set for popular television series including Outlander and Game of Thrones – perhaps the reason for a recent 40% rise in visitor numbers. It also served as a location in the 1975 comedy film Monty Python and the Holy Grail – Terry Jones, one of the Pythons, provides the voiceover for the castle’s informative audio-guided tour.
ANGELA CATLIN, CHRONICLE / ALAMY
Its dashing good looks have led to it being used as a set for the television series Outlander
OUT AND ABOUT
Pennie Taylor soaks up the atmosphere at Doune Castle
‘And they call it victory’ Gaelic poets brought the Battle of Killiecrankie into sharp focus, says Domhnall Uilleam Stiùbhart
I Servery hatches between the kitchen and great hall
THE JACOBITE TRAIL To discover more historic sites that played a key role in the risings visit www.jacobitetrail.co.uk
Huntingtower Castle
Doune Castle Tullibardine Chapel
n the early summer of 1689 Scotland was riven between forces supporting William of Orange, the Dutch Protestant claimant who had invaded England and deposed the Catholic James VII and II, and Jacobites loyal to the Stuarts. With James in Ireland, threatening an expedition to Scotland, some 4,000 Williamite soldiers commanded by General Hugh Mackay of Scourie marched through Perthshire to occupy the Jacobite heartland of Lochaber. On 27 July they were intercepted at the narrow Pass of Killiecrankie by almost 2,000 clansmen, supported by Irish troops, under the charismatic John Graham, 1st Viscount Dundee. The Jacobites, occupying higher ground, waited till sunset, then charged. Mackay’s troops barely fired their muskets before being overwhelmed. Jacobites punched through the enemy line and routed them with brutal carnage. Some 2,000 were slain by soldiers and local Athollmen. Nevertheless, the Jacobites lost a third of their forces; Dundee was mortally wounded. The battle inspired Lowland Scots songs, notably The Braes o’ Killiecrankie, and a Latin epic, The Grameid. But there are Gaelic songs too. Iain mac Ailein from Mull portrays the spirit of the charge:
GAELIC ’N àm dhol sìos, ’n àm dhol sìos, ’N àm dhol sìos bu dèonach, Luchd nam breacan, luchd nam breacan, A leigeadh le mòintich, A’ folbh gu dian, a’ folbh gu dian, Gun stad re prìs, an òrdugh, An dèidh a’ ghunna, an claidheamh ullamh, Gun dad tuilleadh motion.
Aonghas mac Alasdair Ruaidh from Glencoe voices frustration about those killed by bullets rather than in a fair swordfight: GAELIC ’S mairg a chunnaic na saoidhean An tùs iorghaill na dòrainn Bhith gan spadadh le luaidhe, ’S gun tilgeadh buachaille bhò i. TRANSLATION Pity those who saw the heroes At the front of the dreadful skirmish Slaughtered with lead, That a simple cowherd could shoot.
The bards mourned many young Jacobite leaders, killed in the ‘fras pheilearan luaidhe,/Le mòr fhuaim nan canan’ (‘the shower of lead pellets with the great cannonades’). Above all, they lamented the loss of Bonnie Dundee, Laird of Claverhouse: GAELIC ’S ge bu theàrnadh gu lèir dhaibh Bha bàs Chlèibhears r’a chunntadh. TRANSLATION Even if they had all survived, It was the death of Clavers that counted. GAELIC Bha a’ chluiche sin caillteach ’S iad ag ràite gur buaidh e. TRANSLATION That game was ruinous, And they call it victory.
The Jacobites might have won, but without their leader the campaign collapsed with the defeat at Dunkeld the following month, on 21 August. An illustration of Viscount Dundee being killed at Killiecrankie
TRANSLATION When charging down, charging down, Charging down undaunted, JACOBITES The men in plaid, the men in plaid, AT THE MUSEUM Who’d rush down the moorside, Historic Scotland Swiftly advancing, swiftly members are invited to advancing, an exclusive evening Unstoppable, in order, event at the National After the gun, the sword ready Museum of Scotland. With no further motion
See page 9
New Abbey Corn MIll
PROTÉGÉ FIONA MCKINLAY gets into the swing of things
My day as a miller Fiona McKinlay learns the ropes at the 18th-century New Abbey Corn Mill PHOTOGRAPHS: SIMON MURPHY
34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
BEHIND THE SCENES
The water-powered mill was built in the late 1700s, but there may have been a mill here since the 1200s when nearby Sweetheart Abbey was founded
MENTOR GEORGE HERING shows Fiona the ropes
T
he drive to New Abbey before we switch her on. They call her Corn Mill from the Betty and treat her with great respect. central belt is only Even operating the oil dispenser is around an hour tough for my puny fingers, and there’s and 40 minutes – much more physical work to come. provided you don’t get Next, George leads me inside the a flat tyre on the way. main part of the mill and up to the top Blue sky and sunshine makes the time floor. There is a wooden funnel called a waiting by the side of the A74 more hopper and it needs to be filled with bearable, but I’m excited when we grain. I heave a heavy bag over and spill reach our destination. it in until George tells me it’s done. We pull in to the car park at We head back downstairs where a 11.50am, just 10 minutes before the crowd has gathered in the ticket office. mill is powered into action for the first The area has a few items to purchase demonstration of the day. and upstairs there’s a room with a With no time to waste, I shake hands 12-minute video explaining the history with my boss for the day, George and operation of the mill. George asks if Hering, who asks, as he towers everyone has seen the film. I remain over me at 6ft 3in tall, whether quiet – it looks like I’ll just have to I’ve eaten my porridge. It sounds learn on the job. like my dainty stature and George and I lead the visitors questionable eating habits outside and up to the sluice at may be better suited to the edge of a mill pond. I am other professions, although carrying a metal tool with a in the olden days, it was square hole in one end that I kids who worked the vaguely remember being mill, right? handed inside. George He furnishes me with explains the operation of gloves and an oil the sluice to the crowd dispenser, and we and invites me head to the forward to open it. impressive water I attach the tool to wheel on the side the square top of the Fiona makes light of the mill. She sluice and turn. My work of moving heavy corn bags needs oiled movement is HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 35
Above: the wheel is inspected daily
Left: Fiona switches on the machine
restricted by a combination of caution and weakness, but after a few rotations, the water starts to flow through. I have to watch the level of the water as it passes through the adjoining canal – it must go to roughly the height of a particular boulder, but not beyond, then I need to stop. Along where the water now runs is an open trapdoor, which is all that separates the fluid from the wheel. With the water summoned, we head indoors to the ground floor of the mill. George talks about the dangers of getting caught or injured, lightening the mood with jokes about missing employees and how he got his hair style. Turning on the mill involves lifting a fairly low-tech looking bundle of rocks on a rope to close the trapdoor. The might of the machine – sorry, Betty – is nothing to frown at, though. That she is being powered purely by water is remarkable in this modern age when we expect almost everything to run on electricity. I watch, with the rest of the group, as processed oats fly down two chutes on either side of the giant cogs. The tour continues up the stairs as George talks the group through the other two levels of the mill. Recounting the
history of industrial Scotland, he surprises some children with the news that, back in the 18th century, they would have been working in the mill at the age of six or seven. Boys would begin a year later so they could get a little more education first. He also explains about the different kinds of oats produced – fine oatmeal for baking, coarse oatmeal for porridge, and animal feed. He shows the room where harvested oats would be dried out by a kiln and points to the only known evidence of a fire in the mill – some scorched rafters. Lastly, we head out to the water wheel to watch it turn. It’s definitely the number-one photo opportunity at the site. Visitors ask George more questions about the mill and he impresses with his knowledge. Eventually, though, they disperse – either for lunch or to check out Sweetheart Abbey, which is only about five minutes’ walk away. George and I head back inside to switch off Betty, and back up to close the sluice. Although in the olden days the mill would have operated all day, she requires too much water for a continual service. As George is keen to emphasise, the site is essentially a museum –
36 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Middle: George entertains his audience. Bottom: Fiona opens the sluice gate.
BEHIND THE SCENES Oiling the wheel before operation is just a small taste of the maintenance and monitoring that Betty receives
MOVING PARTS
The mill has many working parts, lovingly looked after by the team on site
Powering on the mill involves lifting a fairly low-tech looking bundle of rocks on a rope although you get a pretty full experience of seeing how the mill really did operate, it’s not like a tour of an operational distillery, for example. There is no free dram of porridge at the end, I’m sad to report. George’s role isn’t strictly speaking that of the miller: “I’m a dual monument manager, looking after New Abbey Corn Mill and Sweetheart Abbey. There are never two days the same. My job can involve ticket selling, demonstrations, checking staff rotas and making sure the shop is stocked.” His team consists of two staff at Sweetheart Abbey and four at the mill, and they take turns doing the demonstrations. George explains a new member of staff, due to start the following week, will be swiftly trained up to operate the mill, too. George’s favourite part of the job is “meeting the people from all over the world and getting to show them living, breathing history.” Industrial heritage, he reckons, is vastly underrated. “People want knights, queens, palaces,
sweethearts and kings. A bowl of porridge isn’t a big thing,” he says, sighing. “We want to encourage people to visit the wind and water mills and see what it’s all about. World Porridge Day is on 10 October and we’re planning ... tours [that will be] running throughout the day.” He says the busiest days for the mill are rainy ones: “On a sunny day, people want to go down to the beach”. But having lucked out on blue sky and sunshine myself, I see how pretty the village of New Abbey is. Without having visited the beach a fair comparison is impossible, but the mill really is lovely. As we prepare to head back to the city, I consider the old role of the miller, rather than the abbreviated version I got to experience today. I’m glad my day was neither as long nor as physical as it would’ve been if we’d travelled by DeLorean. I’m also not sure we’d have got on very well calling a garage to remedy the morning’s burst tyre in 18th-century Dumfriesshire.
Operating just as it did back in the 1790s, working at New Abbey Corn Mill is more of a hands-on role than some stewards might be faced with at other sites. Unlike a ruined castle, a restored mill has moving parts … With that, of course, comes challenges. “Things do go wrong. The mill is quite temperamental,” says George Hering. “A few weeks ago, she decided not to play and loaded the stones down, which act as a brake. We had to have the stones pulled out, cleaned and dressed, checked and inspected. It was quite good fun … Generally, though, she’s pretty good.”
The team is aware of wear and tear elsewhere on the system and faces the prospect of more significant work. “The launder needs to be replaced, we have a few issues with the water wheel and we need work done on the pond. None of it is unexpected. We just need to work out when we can do it and when we have enough money.” Maintenance is regular at the site, with a traditional millwright and a conservation team on hand nearby.
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 37
TO U R N A M E N T S
THE SPORT OF Lavish tournaments helped put Scotland on the European map. Historian Elizabeth Rhodes explores a rich royal heritage
MARY EVANS, GL ARCHIVE / ALAMY
KINGS
38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
I
n the summer of 1507, the residents of Edinburgh were preparing for elaborate celebrations. The athletic and image-conscious King James IV was hosting one of the most elaborate chivalric competitions ever seen in Scotland, the Tournament of the Wild Knight and the Black Lady, which he would hold again in 1508. James IV, then in his early thirties and anxious to assert his status among the monarchs of Europe, was determined to provide an impressive show. On his orders, the jousting field to the south of Edinburgh Castle – where King’s Stables Road now runs – was transformed into a fantastical scene. Pavilions covered in green and white taffeta were put up, a fake pear tree decorated with foil flowers and fruit was erected, and a triumphal
King James IV hosted tournaments as a show of power
chariot adorned with fabric from Flanders was created to carry a mysterious woman called ‘the Black Lady’ to the tournament ground. As was common at Renaissance entertainments, disguise and impersonation were important aspects of the 1507 tournament. In addition to the Black Lady –
who was probably a Scot masquerading as someone of African descent – two of the king’s male attendants took part in the festivities dressed as women. Other courtiers pretended to be wild men in goat skins and antlers, while James IV took on the role of the ‘wild knycht’, a well-known figure from Arthurian legend. Also mentioned in the tournament accounts are payments for the construction of winged beasts (perhaps model dragons), black-andwhite damask coverings for a unicorn (presumably a horse in costume) and ‘fire ballis’, which could be a reference to fireworks. All in all, the tournament of 1507 was an extraordinary event. Yet this elaborate courtly spectacle was a far cry from the early history of Scottish tournaments. The western European tournament tradition began as training for war, and
Aristocratic jousters potrayed in a European tournament of 1510 HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 39
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TO U R N A M E N T S
At a tournament in 1342 the Scots proposed jousting against the English with raised visors – resulting in four deaths the first tournaments were brutal mock battles in which a large number of knights fought at the same time. The Scottish king William the Lion reputedly took part in events of this kind in France in the 1160s and 1170s. Over time, these practice battles, or mêlées as they are sometimes known, declined in popularity. During the 13th and 14th centuries, tournaments evolved into a series of competitions between individual knights. The highest status of these one-onone contests was the joust, where knights on horses attempted to unseat each other with long lances. Most early Scottish tournaments seem to have been held in the Borders and were often given an added tension by the participation of English and Scottish nobles. At a notorious tournament at Berwick-uponTweed in 1342, the Scots proposed jousting against the English with raised visors – a decision that resulted in four deaths. By the late 14th century, Scottish tournaments were increasingly held at traditional royal centres such as Edinburgh and Stirling. The first tournament known to have been held in Edinburgh took place around 1329 and was a contest between Scottish and English knights. In 1398, Robert III’s queen, Annabella Drummond, organised a tournament beside Edinburgh Castle for 12 knights, including her son David, Duke of Rothesay. This is one of a short list of Scottish tournaments hosted by women. Annabella’s involvement was probably triggered by a wish to bolster the position of her son, presenting Rothesay as
SHUTTERSTOCK
In 1398 Queen Annabella hosted a tournament at Edinburgh Castle
The sport beloved of James IV is reenacted in Spectacular Jousting at Linlithgow Palace
The tournament king James IV indulged in jousting to celebrate royal festivities James IV, who reigned 1488 to 1513, was probably the most enthusiastic tournament patron of all the Scottish kings. During the middle years of his reign, James held regular jousting events on Shrove Tuesday, or Fastern’s Eve as it was known in Scotland, a traditional day for celebration and merry-making. He also hosted tournaments to mark major royal
festivities such as the marriage of Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to the English throne – who was claiming to be Richard Duke of York – to Catherine Gordon. James’s wedding to Margaret Tudor, elder sister of Henry VIII, was marked by a tournament in Edinburgh lasting three days, and accompanied by feasting and entertainments, including an appearance by ‘ane
litill Orknay troll’ (perhaps a person with dwarfism). The grandest of James’s jousts were almost certainly the Black Lady tournaments of 1507 and 1508. In 1505, James presided over a remarkable nautical tournament in Edinburgh’s Leith docks. However, this was probably more of a pageant with performers rather than a genuine knightly competition, as the ‘men that justit in the botes’ were paid for their labours.
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 41
TO U R N A M E N T S
an ideal chivalric prince in contrast to his sick and failing father. Hosting and competing in tournaments were both marks of high social status. Tournaments were public demonstrations of wealth and power, and could become politically controversial. In February 1449, members of the Douglas family took part in a tournament at Stirling Castle, where they jousted against several eminent Burgundian fighters. The tournament was presided over by James II, but the Black Douglases used it to demonstrate their importance at court – with disastrous consequences. The Stirling tournament was almost certainly one of a series of events that convinced James that the 8th Earl of Douglas had become overmighty, and eventually led him to murder the earl in 1452. As the presence of the Burgundian knights at Stirling demonstrates, the Scottish nobility had close connections with the wider European tournament scene. It was not uncommon for Scots to joust in France and other friendly countries in mainland Europe. Meanwhile, Scottish tournaments were often advertised on the Continent. 42 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Holyrood Abbey
Francis I, King of France, painted in armour by Jean Clouet, circa 1540
European trends influenced Scottish tournament fashions. In the 1530s, James V purchased a suit of armour ‘of the fassoun of the King of Frauncis’ and another made ‘of the Dolphinis fassoun’. His father, James IV, employed a man known as ‘Laurence, the Franch armorar’. By the reigns of James IV and James V, Scottish tournaments had become vastly expensive affairs. They involved the employment of numerous smiths and grooms, the purchase of specially trained tournament horses – sometimes imported from overseas – and the provision of grand banquets and accompanying entertainment. In many ways, the early 16th century saw the high point in Scottish tournament spectacle, with vast set-piece jousts forming a key part of court celebrations. Ironically, though, just as Scottish tournaments were reaching their visual peak, jousting was becoming ever more stylised and irrelevant to contemporary military activities, which were increasingly influenced by the new gunpowder weapons. Following the death of James V in 1542, Scotland’s tournament tradition lapsed. The combination of significant political upheavals, and the fact that for most of the time between the early 1540s and the mid-1580s the nation lacked a resident adult monarch, meant there was neither the money nor the incentive to hold these extravagant contests. Towards the end of the 16th century, James VI initiated a brief tournament revival. He ordered the creation of a practice jousting field in the grounds of Holyrood Abbey, and in 1594 held an almost theatrical tournament at Stirling Castle to celebrate the baptism of his eldest son, Prince Henry. Yet this final flowering was cut short by the removal of the Stuart court to England in 1603. Both James VI and his son Henry were active patrons of tournaments during the early 17th century, but they pursued this interest south of the border. The age of the great Scottish tournaments was over. Watch the sport of kings at Spectacular Jousting, Linlithgow Palace 1-2 July historicenvironment.scot/jousting and Caerlaverock Castle 29-30 July historicenvironment.scot/knights
SHUTTERSTOCK, GLASSHOUSE IMAGES / ALAMY
Tournaments were public demonstrations of wealth and power, and could be controversial
A 1449 jousting event at Stirling Castle was disastrous for the Douglas family
KELSO
Scotland’s largest inhabited castle Floors Castle built in 1721 is Scotland’s largest inhabited castle, home to the 10th Duke of Roxburghe and his family. Discover the spectacular state rooms, with an outstanding collection of fine art, porcelain, newly refurbished tapestries and unique furniture. Enjoy the frenzy of colour in the Walled Garden and explore the glasshouses which date back to the 1850s. Take time to stroll through the Millennium garden featuring a French-style parterre and also a charming summerhouse known as Queen’s House after Queen Victoria’s visit in 1867.
CASTLE TOURS ~ WALLED GARDEN ~ MILLENNIUM GARDEN ~ GARDEN WORKSHOPS ~ WOODLAND & RIVERSIDE WALKS ~ NEW FOR 2017, CYCLE TRAIL ~ COURTYARD CAFÉ ~ TERRACE CAFÉ ~ GIFT SHOP ~ CASTLE KITCHEN AND DELI SHOP ~ ADVENTURE PLAYGROUND ~ NEW ROXY BEAR ACTIVITY TRAIL
Castle, Grounds & Courtyard Café now open until the end of September (daily) and October (weekends only) Gardens and Terrace Café open daily all year round.
Head turners Hume Sweet Hume joins the Scottish labels being showcased online and in our shops
Jacket wrap, ladder, in charcoal, £130; headband, northern star, in grey, £40; bag, mini, Harris Tweed, in grey check, £40
Sweet success From a workshop on Westray in the Orkney Islands, sisters Lizza and Jenna Hume create a range of knitted garments and textiles. Their label, Hume Sweet Hume, is inspired by the colours and textures of the surrounding environment, using natural luxury yarns to create products that, while reflective of Westray, are at home anywhere in the world. Visit the online shop at historicenvironment.scot/shop SPEND AND SAVE Members receive a 20% discount by using the code MEMBER1016 at the checkout 44 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Lambswool throw in rothes rose, £110 Alba merino stole in soft sage, £55
Arran jumper in ecru, £40 Snood, ladder, in crab apple, £60
R E TA I L
Poncho, northern star, in grey and charcoal, £110 Hat, northern star, in charcoal, £40 Wrist warmers in denim stripe, £40 Arran jumper in ecru, £40
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 45
R E TA I L
City living New designs inspired by stunning sites in Edinburgh and Stirling
Jonathan Wheeler A watercolour artist living in Findhorn in the Highlands of Scotland, Wheeler is inspired by majestic Scottish landscapes and castles. This image of Edinburgh Castle was painted from the view on Princes Street, showing the historic property in all its glory.
SPEND AND SAVE Members receive a 20% discount by using the code MEMBER1016 at the checkout SHOP Visit the online shop at historicenvironment.scot/shop
Chocolates, £6 Tea caddy, £10 Bone china mug, £12 PVC bag, £16
Modal scarf, £85 Silk scarf, £95 Shopping bag, £14
The Unicorn in Captivity The Stirling Palace Tapestries are the result of a unique project. A series of seven medieval tapestries were recreated using centuries-old craftsmanship and modern technology. The resulting works, taking 13 years to complete, can be seen at Stirling Castle. The original tapestries, depicting the story of The Hunt of the Unicorn, are held by the Metropolitan Bangle, £32 Earrings, £16 Pendant, £16
46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
SPECIAL DISCOUNT
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f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership now is the time to tell your friends and family about it. They can have great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they will save 20% on their membership fee when they join. Paying by Direct Debit is great value too and, with
20% off the annual cost, a concession membership is only £2.52 a month. MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: ●●Ask your friend or family member to call 0131 668 8999. Tell them
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nd jousting The power games behi HISTORIC SCOTLAND SUMMER 2017
E OF AZIN MAG MEMBER
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Featuring EDINBURGH CASTLE HOLYROOD ABBEY STIRLING CASTLE
MEMBERS SUMMER
2017
40 GREAT DAYS OUT
TAKE A TRIP TO
Fort George Doune Castle New Abbey Corn Mill Caerlaverock Castle
HISTORICENV
Height of
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 47
EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND
EVENTS J UNE– SEPTEMBER
Members get more Daytime events are free to members, unless otherwise stated
Parking 48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Toilets
Gift shop
Restaurant/café
Reasonable wheelchair access
Picnic area
Dogs not permitted
DIARY DATES
Fun in the sun
An action-packed schedule continues our celebration of the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology with music, theatre, survival skills … and bats Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit historicenvironment.scot/events
The Rock of Ages
the retinues, soldiers and join in the fun.
DUMBARTON CASTLE
Amazing Ages!
Sat 10–Sun 11 Jun; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/rock Join us in the shadow of the rock and watch our fearless warriors in thrilling clashes, with more battles and bravery from 2,000 years of west-coast history. Learn how to make a bow or forge armour in the bustling encampments and experience life through the ages.
Spectacular Jousting LINLITHGOW PALACE
Sat 1–Sun 2 Jul; 12.30-4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/jousting
Linlithgow Palace and Caerlaverock Castle will host
Step back into medieval times and get ready to cheer on your favourite as
FORT GEORGE
Sat 12–Sun 13 Aug; 11am-5pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/amazing
Two thousand years of history collide at Dumbarton
the chivalrous knights ready their noble steeds and lances for an almighty display of courage and skill. Meet the knights, try your hand at hobby-horse jousting and wander through the camps on the Peel to learn about life from the knights and retinues.
Spectacular Jousting CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE
Sat 29–Sun 30 Jul;
12.30-4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/knights Hear the thunder of hooves and clashing of lances as we welcome our annual jousting tournament to this medieval stronghold on the Solway shore. Watch as the noble knights battle it out to be crowned champion. Wander through the medieval encampments, meet
Immerse yourself in the past as hundreds of performers tell Scotland’s story. Visit the encampments and view dramatic re-enactments. Try your hand at traditional skills, meet the archaeologists and find out about the fascinating finds that help us piece together the puzzles of the past. Celebrate Scottish culture with a programme of traditional music over the weekend featuring artists with strong Highland links. This new event is not to be missed. Supported by EventScotland.
thrilling jousting HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 49
DIARY DATES Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 668 8885
JUNE
Ring of Brodgar Walk RING OF BRODGAR
Daily, Jun–Aug; every Thu, Sep; 1-2pm 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@hes. scot Explore the area around the Ring of Brodgar during our guided walk with a ranger and find out the special significance of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
Standing Stones of Stenness and Barnhouse Village Walk
Arthur’s Secrets in Holyrood Park
explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse.
Arthur’s Secrets HOLYROOD PARK
STONES OF STENNESS
Mon, Wed, Thu, Jun– Aug; every Wed, Sep; 10-11am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@ hes.scot Join the ranger service for a guided tour of our oldest stone circle and
Every Tue, Jun–Aug; dog-friendly walk on Sun 2 Jul, 6 Aug; 1-3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join us on a guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past, created by fire and ice.
Arthur’s Amble HOLYROOD PARK
Every Wed, Jun–Jul; dog-friendly walk on Sat 5 Jul 1-2.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Come along on a gentle guided walk around Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch.
Arthur’s Adventure HOLYROOD PARK
Every Mon in Jun and Jul; dog-friendly walk on July 10;
1-4pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
Chapterhouse Theatre Company presents the tale of a woman whose independence and bravery shaped her life. Orphaned in childhood, Jane endures loss, poverty, and a most bitter betrayal before finding the strength to follow her heart.
Bioblitz DUDDINGSTON &
Join us for a challenging guided walk to learn about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past.
Jane Eyre STIRLING CASTLE
Sat 17 Jun; doors open 6.45pm for 7.30pm start Adult £15, concession £13, child £10, family (two adults and two children) £44 – 10% members’ discount
HOLYROOD PARK
Sat 17 Jun; dawn–dusk 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot No booking required Take part in a citywide bioblitz centred around Duddingston and Holyrood Park. Find out what crawls, hops, wriggles, runs and grows in all corners of the capital.
Hit the right note Scottish Chamber Orchestra STIRLING CASTLE
Thu 27 Jul; doors open at 7.15pm for an 8pm start Adult £19.50, concession and HS members £17.50, U26s, people with a disability and an accompanying carer £6 Ticket from Albert Hall ticket office on 01786 473 544 The internationally acclaimed Scottish Chamber Orchestra is back at the magnificent castle with a magical performance.
Parking
50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
Toilets
Gift shop
The internationally acclaimed Scottish Chamber Orchestra
Restaurant/café
Reasonable wheelchair access
Picnic area
Dogs not permitted
DIARY DATES Two Houses and a Castle BLACKNESS CASTLE
Sun 18 Jun; 10am-3pm £6 Buy tickets from Hopetoun rangers service 0131 319 3956 ranger@hopetoun. co.uk Explore the links between three of West Lothian’s most historic sites with a guided walk between Hopetoun, Blackness Castle and the House of the Binns.
Engine Shed: members’ preview event ENGINE SHED
Wed 28 Jun; 6–8pm £5 Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member A great opportunity for members to visit the Engine Shed in Stirling before it opens to the public on Monday 3 July. Join us for an informal talk on the project followed by time to explore the Engine Shed using the interactive facilities. Tea and coffee included. JULY
Linlithgow Holiday Club: A Minibeast Adventure LINLITHGOW PEEL
Tue 4 Jul 10.30am-12.30pm Booking essential Parking
Toilets
Linlithgow Holiday Club’s A Minibeast Adventure
0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Go on the hunt for the smaller animals that live in the woods. Can you track down a leopard slug, a wolf spider or even a devil’s coach horse? Suitable for children aged between eight and 12.
Holyrood Holiday Club: Volcanoes, Wildlife and Adventure HOLYROOD PARK
Wed 5, 12, 19 and 26 Jul, Wed 2 and 9 Aug; 10am-2pm (with lunch break) Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join our rangers for some holiday fun and investigate some of the things that make Gift shop
the park special. Suitable for children aged between 10 and 14.
Murray’s Return BOTHWELL CASTLE
Sun 9 Jul; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events In 1337 Sir Andrew Murray took back his ancestral home from the occupying English army. Come along to hear the tale of how Murray used a fearsome weapon – the ‘Bowstoure’ – to make short work of the defences, leaving the castle as you see it today.
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Get Arty LINLITHGOW PEEL
Tue 11 Jul; 10.30am-12.30pm
Restaurant/café
Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
has lost her twin brother, Sebastian. Disguised as a boy for protection she becomes a page in the service of Orsino, the duke. Bring a picnic and enjoy a Shakespearean classic staged by Folksy Theatre.
Make paint, dyes and sculptures – all from what nature has to offer. Suitable for children aged between eight and 12.
Twelfth Night
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Adventure Around the Loch
DUFF HOUSE
Fri 14 Jul; doors open 6.15pm for a 7pm start
LINLITHGOW PEEL
Sat 15 Jul; doors open 6.15pm for a 7pm start
Tue 18 Jul; 10am-1pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
Adult £14, concession £12, child £10, family (two adults and two children) £40 – 10% members’ discount Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 668 8885 Shipwrecked Viola
Get away from it and enjoy a longer adventure around the loch to discover what makes it special – with plenty of fun along the way. Suitable for children aged between eight and 12.
BOTHWELL CASTLE
Reasonable wheelchair access
Picnic area
Dogs not permitted
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 51
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IN-BRANCH EXPERTS
Scottish Building Society is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority (Register No. 206034). Member of the Building Societies Association and the Council of Mortgage Lenders. Scottish Building Society, SBS House, 193 Dalry Rd, Edinburgh EH11 2EF. Tel. 0131 313 7700.
YOUR HOME MAY BE REPOSSESSED IF YOU DO NOT KEEP UP REPAYMENTS ON YOUR MORTGAGE.
DIARY DATES learn how they lived. Suitable for children aged between eight and 12. AUGUST
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Get lost! LINLITHGOW PEEL
Camouflage Capers at Linlithgow Holiday Club
The Comedy of Errors ELGIN CATHEDRAL
Sat 22 Jul; doors open at 6.45pm for a 7.30pm start Adult £14, concession £12, child £10, family (two adults and two children) £40 – 10% members’ discount Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 668 8885 Illyria brings alive the bard’s classic farce in the magnificent surroundings of Elgin Cathedral. A fun-filled evening of mistaken identity, slapstick and many dreadful puns awaits.
Wildlife Photography for Beginners LINLITHGOW PEEL
Sat 22 Jul; 1-3pm Adult £10, Concession £7, child £5 – 10% members’ discount Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 652 8150 Pick up your camera or phone and head to Parking
Toilets
Linlithgow Peel to explore it from a new angle. A local photographer will be on hand with tips and advice.
Home and Prison DUFF HOUSE
Sat 22 and Sun 23 Jul; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Meet a Scottish soldier of the Highland Division and find out more about the role the house played as an army base and a prisoner of war camp during the Second World War.
Tue 1 Aug; 10.30am-12.30pm 0131 652 8150 No booking required rangers@hes.scot Bring the family and take part in our orienteering challenge – can you complete it without getting lost? Join us anytime between 10.30am and 11.30am.
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Camouflage Capers LINLITHGOW PEEL
Tue 8 Aug; 10.30am-12.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
Expect to get messy as you try to spot the wildlife in Linlithgow that makes it difficult for us to see it. Learn some of the tricks creatures use to blend in and see if you can camouflage yourself. Suitable for children aged between eight and 12.
Come along on a guided walk to learn more about Linlithgow Loch and Peel. Discover what calls the loch its home, how it was created and what makes Linlithgow Peel a special place.
Go Bats!
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Survival Skills
LINLITHGOW PEEL
Fri 25 Aug, Sat 2 Sep; 8-10pm
LINLITHGOW PEEL
Tue 15 Aug; 10am-1pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot
HOLYROOD PARK
Sat 26 Aug; 8-10pm Adult £5 – concession £4, child £3 – 10% members’ discount Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 652 8150 Join us for an informative talk, followed by a gentle stroll around the palace and Peel, and try to spot some of the nocturnal visitors.
Learn how to survive in wild Linlithgow – build a shelter, light a fire and cook a snack. Suitable for children aged between eight and 12.
Summer Stroll LINLITHGOW PEEL
Sat 19 Aug; 1-3pm Booking essential
Linlithgow Holiday Club: Step Back in Time LINLITHGOW PEEL
Tue 25 Jul; 10.30am-12.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Step back in time at Linlithgow Peel to discover who stayed in the palace and Gift shop
Restaurant/café
An unlikely army base? Duff House
Reasonable wheelchair access
Picnic area
Dogs not permitted
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 53
Discover, Explore, Experience New Lanark World Heritage Site Mill Shops & Café • Picnic Areas • Visitor Attraction Falls of Clyde waterfalls & woodland walks Hotel • Hostel • Self-catering cottages Find out more about visiting at www.newlanark.org
See BRICK CITY at New Lanark this summer from 28th June! Tickets on sale now at www.newlanark.org
“The history is tremendous. Well worth a visit” “Very interesting - there is so much to see!” “A great attraction for adults & children alike” “We can’t wait to go back - a lovely day out!” www.newlanark.org | 01555 661345 | trust@newlanark.org New Lanark Mills, Lanark, ML11 9DB (Around 1 hour from Glasgow & Edinburgh)
DIARY DATES SEPTEMBER
Buried treasures
Using your ears – Bat Detectives
Scottish Archaeology Month
HOLYROOD PARK
Fri 1 Sep; 7-10pm Adult £7, concession £5, child £4 – 10% members’ discount Tickets available from historicenvironment. scot/member 0131 652 8150
Siege on the Forth BLACKNESS CASTLE
Sat 2–Sun 3 Sep; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Join us as we recreate the rich history of the ship that never sailed. From epic battles and encampments to bird watching from the battlements, where you’ll discover more about the ecology of this beautiful place.
Celtic Crag HOLYROOD PARK
Sun 3 Sep; 1-3.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join a ranger for a guided walk, where Parking
Toilets
w
Join a ranger and Anne Youngman of the Bat Conservation Trust for a more in-depth session. Expand your knowledge of different bat species and their behaviours before heading out into the park to put your new-found skills into practice.
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
Celebrate Scottish Archaeology Month during September with a wide range of activities – from tours and talks to drop-in sessions where participants can delve deep into Scotland’s rich heritage. Booking essential Find out more at historicenvironment. scot/archaeology
they’ll delve into the park’s rich Celtic past to uncover the reality behind the myths.
personalities. Discover some artefacts uncovered within Holyrood Park.
Foraging in Historical Holyrood
A Symbol of Power
HOLYROOD PARK
Sat 23–Sun 24 Sep; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events
HUNTLY CASTLE
Sat 9 Sep; 1-3.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join Anna Canning from Floramedica for this informative and fascinating guided walk to discover what natural foods and medicines people have used throughout history.
Archaeology Day HOLYROOD PARK
Sat 16 Sep; 11am-4pm No booking required 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Discover what life was like in the Iron Age by meeting historical characters and trying out skills from the period. Join a druid for walks into the past where you’ll meet a range of colourful Gift shop
Renaissance Revelry
Wealth, power and status describe this elaborate castle that was home to the Gordon family. Join us to find out what happened when the castle was occupied by Presbyterian Covenanters in 1640.
The Guardian of Scotland ST ANDREWS CASTLE
Sun 24 Sep; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Join Bishop Lamberton and his medieval soldiers to hear the story of how St Andrews Castle changed hands during the Wars of Independence.
Restaurant/café
Celebrate the past History Live STIRLING
Fri 29 Sep–Sun 1 Oct Join us for a weekend of events throughout Stirling and its environs that will celebrate and showcase Scotland’s rich, diverse history and cultural heritage. Many of the events are free for members, including the Renaissance Revelry at Stirling Castle. Find out more at historicenvironment.scot/historylive
Reasonable wheelchair access
Picnic area
Dogs not permitted
HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 55
ARCHIVE
TIME TRIP
56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND
buildings were cleared, including the manse. Little is known about the photographer, but the Historic Environment Scotland archive has around 50 glass-plate negatives by Hay, mostly of Jedburgh Abbey. See more images like this at canmore.org.uk
SC 1139038
Jedburgh through the lens of history
WHAT IS IT? An unknown man photographed by John Hay at Jedburgh Abbey, circa 1887. In 1875 the abbey underwent significant restoration. The parish church, which had stood in the nave since 1671, was carefully dismantled and the western end of the south aisle wall rebuilt. Various walls and
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