Historic Scotland, Spring 2018

Welcome to

HISTORIC SCOTLAND Grab your television remote this spring for a three-part series created in partnership with the BBC on the history of aerial photography, and an RAF100 documentary starring Ewan McGregor alongside some stunning Second World War aerial reconnaissance images from our archives. See pages 4 and 16.

The Year of Young People is upon us, and Historic Environment Scotland is involved in a range of projects and special events. We’ve been working with young people to co-design the programme and will be inviting involvement from those aged eight to 26 throughout the year. Find out more about what’s coming up on page 8.

Travelling from the present to the past, historian Morvern French investigates eight jobs held by young people from the 14th century to the First World War – read what she’s discovered on page 24.

And there’s loads more packed into this issue.

See the winners and runners-up in the annual photography competition on page 18; learn how 3D scanning and virtual reality can help preserve our heritage on page 32; and immerse yourself in an 11-point checklist of great properties to visit this spring on page 40.

TAKE TWO

INTRODUCE A FRIEND AND

CLAIRE BOWIE Membership and CRM Manager

SAVE

Inchcolm Abbey

SEE PAGE 48

CONTRIBUTORS

MALCOLM COCHRANE

... and Lochleven Castle

MORVERN FRENCH Little earners (p24) HES’s assistant historian Morvern gained a PhD in medieval history from the University of St Andrews

INDIRA MANN Spring loaded (p40) Indira is a journalist, environmentalist and former archaeologist with a lifelong love of Scotland’s castles

KATHLEEN NUTT My day as ... a digital surveyor (p32) Glasgow-based freelance journalist Kathleen writes for The Herald, The Times and The National

Island destinations Prepare to set sail: Inchcolm Abbey and Lochleven Castle are only accessible by boat.

See pages 41 and 43 for more on the two beautiful properties and how to reach them

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 1

CONTENTS S P R I N G

HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT SCOTLAND Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historicenvironment.scot Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot Membership and CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Pauline Brews Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Assistant Editor Jonathan McIntosh Design Matthew Ball, Andrew Bell, Alistair McGown Sub-editors Sam Bartlett, Sean Guthrie, Sian Campbell, Simone Hutchinson Advertising Sales Sophie Marcuccilli sophie.marcuccilli@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0203 771 7229 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland.

All information is correct at the time of going to press. Š Historic Environment Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland.

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Springtime stars 11 properties you’ve got to see this season

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014. HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit historicenvironment.scot/about-us Scottish Charity No. SC045925.

32 3D scanning, virtual reality and more in Stirling 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

12 Brick brilliance

Where to go this spring SKARA BRAE P42 ELGIN CATHEDRAL P25

BONAWE IRON FURNACE P27

CORGARFF CASTLE P43

THE ENGINE SHED P32 CARDONESS CASTLE P45

SMAILHOLM TOWER P45

REGULARS

4 THE SCRIPT News and updates from around the country 48 MEMBERSHIP 50 EVENTS 56 TIME TRIP FEATURES

ANGELA CATLIN, FRASER HETHERINGTON, BRIAN TAYLOR

18 TOP SHOTS The winners and runners-up from this year’s photo competition 24 LITTLE EARNERS Put yourself in the shoes of eight young workers, from a 14th-century stonemason to a teenage soldier in WWI 32 HOW TO BUILD A VIRTUAL WORLD Kathleen Nutt learns about 3D laser scanning 40 SPRING LOADED A rundown of 11 must-see properties for the season

18 Happy snappers: photo competition winners

24 Underage and underpaid – history’s young workers HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 3

PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH AND MORE…

T H E

SCRIPT

Up in the air A three-part BBC TV series created in partnership with HES and a book written by its presenter James Crawford chart the development of aerial photography

Some of the sights from James’s aerial adventures

EDIN’S HALL BROCH

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This broch near Duns is thought to have been built during the first two centuries AD. It stands within its own enclosure amid the surrounding fort, separating this building from the rest of the site.

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HOLYROOD PARK

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Arthur’s Seat, the park’s highest point, is the remains of a volcano. Stone and flint tools found here reveal human activity as far back as 5,000 BC. Four Iron Age forts are visible on the rocky slopes.

VIKING SHIPYARD

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HES designated the stone-lined canal on Skye’s Rubh’ an Dùnain peninsula as a historic monument in November 2017. Discoveries include 12th-century boat timbers and a dry dock.

Arbory hill fort, near Abington in Lanarkshire

A SCOTLAND FROM THE SKY Airing on BBC One Scotland in March. Book available to preorder from the HES online shop.

Members can receive a 20% discount – see page 46 for code

landmark three-part TV series, created by the BBC and Historic Environment Scotland, is examining the evolution of aerial photography and its use in helping to better understand the country’s built, natural and cultural heritage.

Airing on BBC One Scotland in March, Scotland from the Sky sees HES publishing manager James Crawford lead viewers through the history of aerial photography, from its infancy and use in wartime to the role it has played in urban planning and uncovering the secrets of the past.

James has been studying images from Scotland’s National Collection of Aerial Photography, held in the archives of HES, over the past 10 years. The collection contains 1.6 million images of the nation from above.

Scotland from the Sky has taken James the length and breadth of the country, from Wick and Skye, to Stranraer, Castle Kennedy and Edin’s Hall.

“The perspective you get from the air is one of the best ways of detecting ancient remains,” explains James.

“Over the course of the 20th century, aerial photography has led to the discovery of tens of thousands of new archaeological sites.

“The pioneers of aerial photography talked about a certain time of day when low light brings the signs of the past into view,” James adds. “Going up in these aeroplanes is as close as I’m going to get to travelling in a time machine.”

James was lucky enough to fly in a Tiger Moth to follow the route of the Antonine Wall, and in one of the few Bristol Fighters still in action to try aerial photography from WW1.

“Getting to travel in these aeroplanes was incredible,” says James. “I tried to take photos while flying in the open cockpits. The pilot explained that it was like trying to take a photograph in a hurricane.”

Main image: The Cheviot Hills.

Near right: The presenter of Scotland from the Sky, James Crawford.

Far right: A Bristol Fighter on which James tried WW1 aerial photography

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 5

THE SCRIPT

Fashion figurines Replica dolls revive Renaissance trends

I

The designs capture fashion influences from continental Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries

conic looks once worn by Mary Queen of Scots have been brought back to life in the form of three replica costumed dolls.

Wealthy women in 16th and 17th-century Europe exchanged dolls as a way to share fashion ideas so that garments could be replicated by tailors elsewhere.

Artist Tim Chalk, dressmaker and costume historian Meridith Towne and historian Michael Pearce collaborated to create these replicas based on findings from the inventories of Mary Queen of Scots.

“The chance to recreate objects from historical records appealed to me,” explains Chalk, “and I learned more about fashion history in one month than I had in my entire life.”

Towne relished highlighting the fabrics and styles mentioned in Mary’s inventories: “Dolls were often diplomatic gifts between aristocracy and

royalty, and highlighted fashion styles from Europe,” she says.

“The real challenge in recreating the outfits lay in ensuring they could be made to scale and that the materials were as historically accurate as possible.”

Three outfits were created: a black velvet costume reflecting French design, and fawn and silver costumes taking influence from Germany and Italy.

“Surviving fashions from the 16th and 17th centuries are scarce,” says Towne. “These dolls tended to be passed down through families, their outfits acting like snapshots of styles through time.”

Costumed interpreters at Stirling Castle will use the dolls to tell Stirling’s remarkable Renaissance stories.

Fort George’s barracks get a makeover Mannequins show how military life has changed Working alongside historian Allan Carswell and artist Tim Chalk, HES updated the displays and mannequins in Fort George’s recreated barrack and guard rooms.

Each room tells tales from a different point in time – the 1792 scene showing a married couples barrack room of a regiment which monitored disturbances after the Clearances, and a 1915 barrack room featuring a fresh recruit to the Seaforth Highlanders who has arrived for training

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The displays give a glimpse into the lives of the fort’s garrison

prior to his service in France.

“The new displays highlight the everyday issues faced by soldiers at different points in the fort’s history,” explains

Steve Farrar, interpretation manager. “This will give visitors a better sense of how soldiers’ lives have changed over the centuries.”

THE SCRIPT

A year for youth

HOW DO I GET INVOLVED? Keep an eye on social media and historicenvironment.scot for info and look out for more details in the next issue.

Scotland is celebrating its eight to 26-year-olds throughout 2018 in the Year of Young People.

Here are five ways you, young reader, can get involved in the action

Explore Edinburgh Castle after hours

ENJOY A NIGHT OUT AT THE CASTLE

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The signature event on Historic Environment Scotland’s Year of Young People calendar will take place in autumn atop Castle Rock.

Knight At The Castle is an ‘afterhours’ event for those aged 18 and over, at Edinburgh Castle in October. Visitors can discover secrets and stories of the mighty stronghold, enjoy themed bars and food and performances by some of Scotland’s brightest young creative talent. This event is curated with Young Scot, Edinburgh Napier University, Impact Arts and Scotland’s Urban Past and will be a spectacular night to remember.

DESIGN A SUSTAINABLE SOUVENIR

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HES’s retail team and Springboard UK are

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Young people can get involved in events throughout the year

promoting heritage tourism retail careers through challenges encouraging young people to design a sustainable ‘souvenir of the future’, inspired by their local or national heritage.

The national competition, See the Future, will be delivered to schools through HES digital channels, with winners showcased at National Tourism Week 2019.

Teams of college students throughout the Highlands, Dumfries and Galloway,

Glasgow and Edinburgh will be encouraged to pitch their ideas in a Dragons’ Den-style task, with the winning design being developed for sale in HES shops.

CO-DESIGN DIGITAL SPACES THAT WORK FOR YOU

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Young people will be a driving force in shaping Year of Young People activities and more with organisations across Scotland. Working alongside Young Scot and Storm ID, HES is co-designing a digital space for young people to voice their feedback on Year of Young People activities. Young Scot members have taken part in an online survey and have been invited to a co-design workshop in February, which will

Some of the Friends of Dundonald Castle

Community custodians Local heritage enthusiasts lead the way at Dundonald Castle

lead to opportunities for them to learn about creating digital content inspired by heritage.

SHAPE HOW FUTURE YOUNG PEOPLE EMBRACE HISTORY

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Two of HES’s key programmes – junior tour guides and young language ambassadors – will be reviewed by a young team of co-designers to develop and improve them. A reality TV-style documentary will also be filmed and shared online to support young people visiting HES sites, utilising a

Watch and learn: junior guides documentary

range of languages from Gaelic to Mandarin.

SEE HOW YOUNG WOMEN STOOD OUT IN THE 1980S

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HES will present the nationally acclaimed exhibition, Visible Girls Revisited, at Summerhall in Edinburgh. The photography series by Anita Corbin captured how pairs of women stood out in their subcultures in 1981 and, in recent years, she has photographed many of the women again to see how their lives have changed.

History fans are helping to drive exciting archaeological work and inspire local enthusiasm at Dundonald Castle.

The property is in the care of HES and managed in partnership with the Friends of Dundonald Castle (FODC). Staff and volunteers play a very active role in encouraging local interest in the castle, and are the driving force behind a community heritage and education project which aims to discover more about the site’s past.

An archaeological geophysical survey took place at the castle in 2017.

Hundreds of people attended talks and walking tours

following the survey and it is hoped that excavations with community participation will take place this year.

To mark the Year of Young People 2018, a castle committee for eight to 15-year-olds – who are calling themselves the Crazy Castle Kids – has been set up so that young people can shape this year’s activities. The group is working on an oral history project, recording local stories using interviews across a range of demographics.

FODC is also looking for more volunteers to help at the site.

For more information see facebook.com/ DundonaldCastle

Scotland is the first country in the world to dedicate an entire year to its young people.

Search for #YOYP2018 on social media for all the latest HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 9

THE SCRIPT

Tree of a kind Sycamores have a long and rich cultural heritage, says Bob Tevendale No historic monument exists in isolation, and a lot of our properties are located in magnificent settings, surrounded by trees that dominate the striking landscapes and enhance their splendour.

Linlithgow Palace, Craigmillar Castle and Castle Campbell are all graced with venerable sycamores but our prime specimen must be the famous example at Beauly Priory, which was shortlisted by the Woodland Trust for Scotland’s Tree of the Year 2017.

The sycamore is not native to the British Isles, but was widely planted here during the 1500s. It was considered holy in ancient Egypt because it was believed that three Egyptian goddesses – Hathor, Nut and Isis – dwelled in its branches.

Sycamores are also mentioned in the story of Zacchaeus from the Gospel of Luke. As Jesus entered Jericho, Zacchaeus was unable to see him due to the large crowds, so he ran ahead and climbed into a sycamore tree. Seeing him there, Jesus called Zacchaeus down and visited his house, which led to the taxman’s salvation.

However, the sycamore has

FAST FACT Sycamore trees can grow to 35m and live up to 400 years

NEWS BRIEF

A magnificent specimen at Craigmillar Castle

EARLY OPENING

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS WITH

Bob Tevendale

been much maligned by conservationists for the limited number of species it can support as a habitat and because it can hinder the growth of neighbouring native plants due to how quickly it grows. Alongside this, it lets little light through to the forest floor and its sticky fallen leaves make it hard for ground-loving flora to prosper.

In its defence, the sycamore is attractive to aphids and their predators, including birds, ladybirds and hoverflies. The leaves are eaten by caterpillars of a number of moths, particularly the sycamore moth, plumed prominent and maple prominent. It flowers early, during April and May, providing an excellent source of nectar to bees and other insects that fly when the weather is warm enough.

Sycamores can also withstand strong, cold winds, making them attractive to gardeners in northern climes.

Its winged seeds, or samaras, which spin through the air as they fall, have long been known by children as ‘helicopter seeds’.

●●The summer season for Historic Scotland properties will start a few days earlier than usual this year, with sites that have been closed for winter reopening on 26 March. Please check the website for opening times of specific properties. historicenvironment.scot/ daysout

DESIGNATIONS DIGEST ●●The Moot Hill and the foundation remains of Scone Abbey, and the historic gold workings around Leadhills are among the latest places to be designated as scheduled monuments.

The designations team has also started a review of thatched buildings in Scotland. historicenvironment.scot/ designations

EARTH HOUR ●●An array of iconic

Scottish landmarks will switch off their lights on 24 March at 8.30pm for WWF’s Earth Hour. wwf.org.uk/earthhour HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 11

THE SCRIPT

Scotland’s top model Edinburgh Castle recreated in toy bricks

A

limited-edition model of Edinburgh Castle using LEGO bricks has been created by artist Warren Elsmore. The replica will be available online and in the Portcullis shop at the castle from the end of March for £115.

Elsmore has been building commercial models from LEGO for five years, and relished the chance to recreate the iconic Scottish landmark.

“Before making a model, we have to ensure it’s feasible to build to scale and buyers can recreate it easily,” he explains.

“We then visit the properties if we can and use photographs, drone footage and guide books to help us create the models.

We made sure to include Mons Meg because it’s so well known.”

Elsmore says: “We are already considering what other Historic Scotland properties we could tackle in the future.”

Brick Wonders – an exhibition of Elsmore’s LEGO recreations

Warren Elsmore examines a model close up

of landmarks around the world – is currently touring Historic Scotland properties as part of the Year of Young People. Featuring the seven wonders of the ancient world and the Great Barrier Reef, the exhibition contains more than half a million bricks, which

replicate wonders from all seven continents. See page 52 for details.

BUY THE CASTLE at historicenvironment.scot/shop See page 46 for members’ 20% discount code

European Year of Cultural Heritage 2018 Events across Europe will celebrate its rich and diverse cultural heritage throughout 2018. The aim of the year is also to encourage more people to discover and engage with Europe’s cultural heritage, and to reinforce a sense of belonging to a common European space.

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In Scotland, activities will include a lecture series by the Architectural Heritage Society, music events by the Scottish Music Centre, Doors Open Days and a photography competition run by Scottish Civic Trust.

For more information see europa.eu/cultural-heritage

NEWS BRIEF

CELEBRATE WORLD HERITAGE DAY 2018 ●●Ahead of World Heritage Day on 18 April, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is running a free event on 11 April inspired by six of Scotland’s iconic world heritage sites. For further information, visit historicenvironment.scot/ worldheritageday

Steps ensure stone security

SAVE TIME, BOOK ONLINE

Route changes to protect Ring of Brodgar A new visitor management system is being introduced to protect the area around the Ring of Brodgar.

Sections of pathway will be roped off, with signage to direct visitors on alternating routes around the stones, while temporary raised paths will be installed on

causeways with high footfall to prevent damage.

Drainage at the UNESCO World Heritage Site has long been a challenge, and this conservation initiative follows the installation of a hidden drainage system in 2016 and 2017 to reduce the impact of wet-weather conditions.

Temporary pathways and drainage are being used to conserve the area around the stones

Abbey exclusive Members chance to explore Holyrood ruin

R Holyrood Abbey

oyal Collection Trust invites Historic Scotland members to visit the ruins of Holyrood Abbey on Saturday 17 March. The abbey was founded around 900 years ago by King David I. Members will be able to visit the abbey unescorted and at their own pace, with palace wardens on hand to answer questions.

Visits are by timed entry at 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm via the Palace of Holyroodhouse’s Abbey Strand Gates. This event is free of charge but tickets are limited and booking is essential.

Reserve your place by logging in at historicenvironment.scot/ member

●●Members can now book online for three popular properties that may reach capacity in peak season.

To secure your place at Lochleven Castle, Maeshowe and Doune Castle, visit the individual property pages at historicenvironment.scot/ daysout

CALLING ALL VOLUNTEERS ●●Three excavation sites are currently seeking volunteers in the summer.

These are at Tarradale, Muir of Ord (contact tarradalethroughtime@ gmail.com), Black Loch of Myrton, Dumfries and Galloway (contact Charlotte.Douglas@ aocarchaeology.com) and Rhynie and Tap O’ Noth, Aberdeenshire (contact g.noble@abdn.ac.uk).

For other opportunities, please see historicenvironment.scot/ volunteer HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 13

SPOTLIGHT

Tomnaverie nuclear bunker A stone circle isn’t the only mysterious construction at this site Thousands of years ago, Tomnaverie stone circle was probably a place for cremation and burial – a marker for death.

In 1959, though, a preserver of life was constructed next door.

The Tomnaverie nuclear bunker was built for the Royal Observer Corps. In the event of nuclear war, three observers could stay there for up to three weeks.

More than 1,500 of these observation posts were built

around Britain. The reinforced concrete shell is 4.5 metres below ground. A team went into the bunker a few years ago and found something of a time capsule. The bunker was still partially furnished and held documents from the 1960s, 70s and 80s including charts showing different types of Soviet aircraft which might be used in an attack on Britain.

EXPLORE Tomnaverie Stone Circle is around 30 miles west of Aberdeen. It is free to visit and open year round.

Please note there is no access to the inside of the bunker.

Tomnaverie Stone Circle

DID YOU KNOW? Tomnaverie stone circle may have been used for astronomical observation – the midsummer moon would have been framed by the recumbent stone in the south-west

Timeline 1898

1930s and 40s

1945

1947–1991

Pierre and Marie Curie discover radium

Scientists make a series of breakthroughs that will be instrumental in the development of nuclear weaponry

On 6 and 9 August, the USA drops atomic bombs on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. More than 200,000 people are killed

Tensions between the USA and the Soviet Union develop after WWII – this becomes known as the Cold War, with the ‘nuclear arms race’ one of its key components

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Ground zero indicator for recording the bearing and height of a blast

Ventilation to provide air to the bunker

Fixed survey meter to detect radiation levels

Trained volunteer observers were recruited locally to staff the post.

In the event of war, they would have played a crucial role in keeping authorities informed

Toilet closet containing a chemical toilet

TeleTalk communications unit. As this bunker was a ‘master post’, communication was particularly important

Bomb power indicator to measure the strength of an explosion

1952

1960s

1980s

2006

2016

The UK tests the first British nuclear weapon in a lagoon between the Montebello Islands, Western Australia

Faslane on the River Clyde becomes home to the UK’s nuclear deterrent, Polaris

The UK government acquires Trident from the US Navy as a replacement for Polaris

North Korea tests its first nuclear weapon and declares itself the world’s eighth nuclear state

MPs vote by 472 to 117 to renew Trident. Nuclear weaponry – and the idea of a nuclear deterrent – remain one of the hottest topics in modern politics

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 15

THE SCRIPT COMPETITION

Eyes on the prize Test your historical knowledge by spotting which of our sites the detail below comes from … and win.

ANSWER THIS QUESTION Which Historic Scotland property is this detail taken from?

A: Edzell Castle B: Tolquhon Castle C: Castle Campbell

App makes it easier to bag them all Update will help you plot your historic itinerary

U

nstaffed properties have been added in the latest update to the Historic Scotland app, making it easier for you to create trip plans that take in staffed and unstaffed destinations. This improvement follows feedback from users.

New users can download the app from the App Store or Google Play.

Existing users can click on ‘Update app’ in the main menu to enjoy the latest version.

Please continue to leave your feedback on the app via reviews on the App Store and Google Play, or by emailing the marketing team at marketing@hes.scot.

Share your itinerary on social media – #historicitinerary

UP FOR GRABS The winning entrant will receive a delicious hamper from M&S.

McGregor uses the force

HOW TO ENTER Visit historicenvironment. scot/guesstheplace or post the answer with your name and membership number to Guess the Place, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH

by Friday 1 June.

Seminal pictures from the National Collection of Aerial Photography (NCAP) have been provided for a documentary examining the role of aerial reconnaissance in the Second World War. The programme is part of national RAF100 celebrations, marking the centenary of the Royal Air Force. Actor Ewan McGregor and his brother Colin, an ex-fighter pilot, explore the archives with the help of Wing Commander Mike Mockford.

Aerial reconnaissance and 3D photographs taken during numerous spitfire sorties under operations such as

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Actor digs through RAF photography archives for BBC documentary

Operation Crossbow were used by the allies to thwart the Nazis’ weapons of mass destruction before they could obliterate Britain.

The programme will air on BBC One at the end of March

Above: Ewan McGregor and Wing Commander Mike Mockford look at 3D photography from the Second World War taken from the NCAP archive

WINNER CASTLE CAMPBELL Fraser Hetherington The wisps of cloud add to the already striking viewscape that the 15th-century Castle Campbell commands over the town of Dollar, helping Fraser bag a £200 Amazon gift card and – as with all category winners – a year’s free membership renewal.

T Top shots The winning images from the Historic Scotland photography competition offer a snapshot of the country’s diverse heritage

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he judging panel for the 2017 photo competition got together in December to assess this year’s entries and decide on the worthy winners.

The stunning quality of images seriously impressed the judges – and also gave them a tough task when it came to whittling down their favourites in each category.

Many of the photos offered fresh perspectives on beloved locations and hidden gems

dotted across the length and breadth of the country, with the usual flock of classics.

There were a few stand out entries that could have scooped the top prize, but after much debate the panel settled on the photo of Castle Campbell above.

The following pages showcase highlights from each category – Properties, Having Fun and Your Heritage – along with the panel’s chosen winner for the Young Talent prize. Many thanks to all who entered.

P H OTO G R A P H Y

COMMENDED

PROPERTIES

CRICHTON CASTLE TOP Scott Pryde The green rolling hills and windswept tree help frame this 14th-century castle that has ties to Mary Queen of Scots and her third husband, James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell.

MELROSE ABBEY ABOVE Scott Pryde The picture angle adds a sense of grandeur to the already impressive medieval architecture of this Cistercian abbey loved by Robert the Bruce.

BALVAIRD CASTLE LEFT Fraser Hetherington A starry night sky makes for a striking backdrop to this 15th-century tower house that was once home to the Murrays of Balvaird.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 19

H AV I N G F U N

P H OTO G R A P H Y

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Y O U N G TA L E N T

WINNER HOLYROOD ABBEY Milly Giles, aged 11 The lush greenery of the gardens at Holyrood Palace frame this shot.

Milly wins a £100 Amazon gift card and one year’s family membership.

The camera loves …

HES photograper Santiago Arribas offers advice on capturing a cracker

WINNER CRICHTON CASTLE Scott Pryde ABOVE The reflection in the glassy, muddy puddle makes for an interesting contrast with the young history hunter speeding towards the castle.

COMMENDED DRYBURGH ABBEY Aimee Watt LEFT A young visitor jumps for joy on a sunny

visit to the abbey, established for Premonstratensian canons in 1150.

EDINBURGH CASTLE TOP LEFT Raymond Watson An inquisitive visitor enjoys a close-up inspection of Mons Meg, which was returned to Edinburgh Castle in 1829 by order of George IV. DIRLETON CASTLE John Forbes BOTTOM LEFT

An intrepid explorer takes a break from roaming this 13th-century fortress, which was home to noble families the De Vauxs, the Haliburtons and the Ruthvens.

DUNDONALD CASTLE MIDDLE LEFT Stuart Innes Sword and shield in hand, a battleready soldier makes his way towards the former home of Scots King Robert II.

“Explore the sites at different times of the day – or year! The golden hour, shortly after sunrise or before sunset, really gives a nice orange glow.

Especially in the north, the light can be very low and unusual in the winter, too.

“Somewhere like the Ring of Brodgar or the Standing Stones of Stenness, there is a lot you can do with interesting light and creative Standing Stones of composition – for Stenness example, playing with silhouettes.

“Walk around the area surrounding a property to find a good spot. At Castle Campbell, you can take a short walk to a hill opposite that gives an amazing view with the hills on either side.”

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 21

P H OTO G R A P H Y

This was the inaugural year of the Your Heritage category and the impressive array of entries – from well-trodden walkways to historic architecture – demonstrated that heritage holds many different meanings for people. Here we chat to the winner and runners-up.

WINNER FORTH BRIDGES RIGHT Narister Oliveira “I’m originally from Brazil and have lived in Glasgow for almost two years. While travelling by train I was struck by this stunning scene, which perfectly melds together the surrounding historic buildings, modern bridges and nature.”

COMMENDED JUPITER ARTLAND TOP LEFT

Nick Hawthorne “Located near Edinburgh, Jupiter Artland is nestled in the grounds of a Jacobean manor house filled with art that causes your imagination to run riot. With this photograph, taken in the café, I tried to capture the wonder of this distinctive location.”

UNION CANAL

Y O U R H E R I TA G E

MIDDLE LEFT

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Thomas Kassebacher “A vital resource for 19th-century industries, the Union Canal has played a number of roles since opening in 1822. Today it is

a prime spot for cyclists like myself to travel between Edinburgh and the Falkirk Wheel, and is an ideal way to enjoy a snapshot of Scottish industrial heritage.”

UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW BOTTOM LEFT

Helen Robertson “Having attended the University of Glasgow myself, the University Tower is one of those buildings that I love wandering around. While out taking pictures in Kelvingrove Park I spotted this perspective, which frames the distinctive tower within its arches.”

SNAP HAPPY Keep your eyes peeled for Historic Scotland’s 2018 photo competition, which will be launched in our next issue. If you can’t wait that long, share your photographic prowess on Twitter - @welovehistory – and Instagram - @historicscotland.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 23

Little earners

From the 12-year-old cotton spinner to the teenage archbishop, HES historian Morvern French imagines the lives of young Scottish grafters from the past ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRIAN TAYLOR

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The apprentice stonemason Name Roger Comyn Location Elgin Cathedral Age around 15 Date c.1395

I’m working under the master mason who oversees the design and reconstruction of Elgin Cathedral. The building was damaged in a fire in 1270, then in 1390 it was cruelly burned down by Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan – known as the Wolf of Badenoch. Bishop Bur had stopped paying the earl

protection money and the whole town suffered.

The rebuilding works that we’re doing now are in the south choir aisle, which is to be designed in keeping with the already existing architecture of the cathedral.

Our working day starts at sunrise and ends at sunset, though in winter we cover the unfinished walls and concentrate on cutting stone indoors.

I have to work my way up the ranks from apprentice to journeyman then master

mason, which is the most highly paid job.

To be a master you have to be skilled in geometry, design and the practical use of the compass, square, hammer, chisel, and file to cut intricate stone mouldings.

My apprenticeship will last five to seven years, during which time I get a daily wage and travel wherever our work is needed. The menial layers have to put the carved stonework into position – I’m glad that’s not my job, as I’m terrified of heights!

FACT!

Most workers were paid a day rate, according to their skills.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 25

The cotton spinner Name: Mary McGregor Location: Stanley Mills Age: 12 Date: 1833

I work at Stanley Mills, which produces linen and cotton textiles by water power.

A lot of the workers here at the mill are from the Highlands, like me, because there aren’t enough people already living nearby.

The owners like employing youngsters because they can pay us less, and I need to work to 26 26 HISTORIC HISTORIC SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

support my widowed mother and my family. We children work from 9.45am to 3.15pm then attend the company school to learn to read and write, which was hard at first because I only

spoke Gaelic when I arrived.

If we step out of line the overseer is allowed to beat us with a strap – this happened to me when I slept in and was late to work last week.

The cotton is cleaned, straightened by carding and drawing, and wound on to a bobbin before coming to us spinners.

We stretch the yarn and twist it into a conical roll on a spindle, using a machine called a water frame. Then the yarn undergoes other processes before being woven into cloth on looms.

The mill is heated by stoves and flues to keep the cotton at the right temperature (18-23 degrees), which makes it awfully hot when you’re hard at work.

It’s also dangerous, and you’ll lose a finger or even a hand if you’re not careful.

FACT!

As archbishop, Alexander would have had use of St Andrews Castle.

The coaler Name: Thomas Cameron Location: Bonawe Iron Furnace Age: 20 Date: 1788

Archbishop of St Andrews Name: Alexander Stewart Location: St Andrews Cathedral and Castle Age: around 17 Date: spring 1510

I was appointed archbishop of St Andrews on 10 May 1504, when I was 11 or so.

This had nothing at all to do with me being the son of King James IV and his mistress Marion Boyd. Indeed, no – my academic achievements and intense devotion speak for themselves.

I have studied at the prestigious universities of St Andrews, Paris and Padua, and I count Erasmus among my tutors. So eager were the king and pope to have me oversee the important archdiocese

of St Andrews that I received dispensation from my illegitimacy and was appointed before the canonical age for consecration, which is 30.

My role is to provide spiritual oversight to eight Scottish dioceses, though because of my age I have to hand my temporal revenues over to the crown for safekeeping.

There’s also a political side to my job – I’ve just been appointed chancellor and expect that the king will involve me more and more in the business of state.

Hopefully my secular responsibilities won’t interfere too much with my clerical work, as politics can get far too belligerent for my tastes.

Alexander Stewart was killed with his father at the Battle of Flodden in 1513.

The furnace was established in 1753 to produce pig iron, which is then made into products such as cannonballs. Most of the 600 people working at Bonawe are employed in coaling in the woods.

We’re summoned to begin work by Taigh a’ Bhell, ‘house of the bell’, which is one of the vast sheds used to store the coaling output. Our job is to stack oak and birch logs around a central stake, cover it with vegetation and earth to make a kiln, remove the central stake and light a fire inside.

This burns for up to ten days before the resulting charcoal can be taken for

use in the furnace. This year has been particularly busy due to the high demand for pig iron. The furnace has been in blast continuously, producing 700 tons a year.

In less busy years we work seasonally, crofting and working the land nearby when not required for coaling.

The English-speaking community here has been busy in recent years, having its own school, church and even a brewing works and whisky store – hic!

It’s said that there’s something of a drinking problem among the workers – it’s a ‘drunken hole’, apparently – but it’s not true.

We deserve a wee drink or two to wind down at the end of a hard day’s work.

Besides, the agents are much worse and are almost permanently drunk.

FACT!

A typical kiln produced 12 sacks of charcoal, weighing around 915kg in total.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 27

The apprentice gardener Name: John Donaldson Location: Duff House Age: 19 Date: September 1874

The soldier Name: Norman Collins Location: Fort George Age: 19 Date: 9 June 1915

IAIN SARJEANT / ALAMY

I’m a soldier based at Fort George near Inverness. It was built between 1748 and 1769 to keep down the Jacobites after their rising of 1745-6. Now it’s home to the 3/4 Seaforth Highlanders – my battalion – as well as the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, and has around 10,000 men, both inside the fort and camping outside. I have to sleep in a vaulted space beneath the ramparts, sharing with around 20 other men.

I’m from Hartlepool myself, and joined the most northerly regiment in Britain so that my parents couldn’t

come and take me home again. I was desperate to sign up last year – thrilled that war had finally broken out and looking to kick the Germans back into touch after their navy bombarded my home town. However, I had to wait until I was 18.

My young age hasn’t stopped me advancing – today I was promoted from private to lance corporal after showing that I could drill the men myself!

Our daily routine is to be woken by the ‘music’ of the bagpipes at 06:00, go through various drills, parades, and marches until 16:00, then be in bed by 21:30.

I’m soon going to need some boracic powder for my blistered feet.

I hope we’ll be shipped out to France soon.

‘Ta ta the noo,’ as the natives say here.

I’m currently an apprentice gardener at Duff House under head gardener Mr Mackie. As well as us gardeners, the outdoor staff includes a gamekeeper, two shepherds, two fishermen, and several agricultural labourers.

The estate is vast and on it we grow fruit and vegetables. Sometimes, when no one’s looking, I make sure the fruit is good by having a wee taste. I couldn’t possibly serve bad produce to my employer, Earl Fife!

Working in this landscape, laid out in

the late 18th and early 19th centuries, I can also admire the handsome ornamental façades of the house, designed by William Adam.

The worst part of the job is carrying the heavy ice from the ice house, near the mausoleum, to the big house – it’s used to keep the earl’s food and drink cool.

We gardeners certainly know how to have fun, though, and can often be found propping up the bars of Banff and Macduff in the evening.

I’m about to take up a new job at Vogrie House, near Edinburgh. Who knows, maybe one day I’ll emigrate …?

FACT!

John started at Duff House in 1873.

After working at Vogrie he emigrated to America.

was paid 1s. a day, but had FACT! Norman to save 6d of that for supper (not included in bed and board) and 4d for after-dinner drinks.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 29

FACT!

Moorish girls like Elen and Margaret More were brought to Scotland by Portuguese slave traders.

The lady in waiting The queen consort Name: Mary of Guelders Location: Holyrood Abbey, Linlithgow Palace Age: about 16-18 Date: 3 July 1449

In the Low Countries they already call me ‘de conynghinne van Scotland’ or queen of Scotland. Today is the day of my marriage to James II and my coronation at the beautiful abbey of Holyrood.

My husband, who is 18 years old, needed a strong diplomatic match with Burgundy and France, and a treaty was signed at Brussels a few months ago. Now that I’m to be queen I’ll outrank even my powerful great-uncle Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy!

I know James likes guns so I’ve brought with me a vast weapons dowry, and

FACT!

my uncle has purchased another great bombard, Mons Meg, to send to Scotland later. James will be well entertained but he’d better be careful, as they can be extremely dangerous.

If anything terrible were to happen to him I would receive Linlithgow Palace as my dower. For now, though, I move around the royal palaces with the court, carrying out such duties as managing my own household, interceding with the king on behalf of his subjects and distributing charitable donations to the church and the poor. This is no love match, but I hope I can do my duty and produce healthy male heirs for James.

Having been brought up at the court of my greatuncle, I know well how to manage the ambitions of powerful men ...

Queen consorts such as Mary of Guelders had to strike a fine balance between interceding in political affairs and meddling.

Name: Elen More Location: Edinburgh Castle Age: about 17 Date: 25 March 1512 (at the time, this was considered to be New Year’s Day)

I was a lady in waiting to Lady Margaret, the teenage daughter of James IV. Despite being illegitimate, Margaret was accorded the status of a princess, meaning that she was head of her own household at the royal court until her marriage in 1510.

Another lady in waiting and I were brought to Scotland from Africa in November 1504, arriving at Inverkeithing then travelling to Edinburgh to be trained as attendants to Margaret.

The king and queen lived at Holyrood Palace while we lived with Margaret at Edinburgh Castle, where the

captain Sir Patrick Crichton and his wife Dame Janet Turing handled our finances.

Our responsibilities included accompanying the court on its travels around the country; attending feasts, tournaments and other special occasions; and more menial tasks such as serving Margaret at table and making her bed.

We were generously compensated with lavish clothing including gowns of russet over red kirtles, as well as receiving dancing and riding lessons. After Lady Margaret left court, I joined the queen’s household, and this New Year I am to be given five French crowns as a gift.

As a ‘Moorish lass’ I’m an object of curiosity to the Scottish people, but I’ve proven myself a trustworthy servant and a necessary part of the royal court.

These first-person accounts are based on a range of historical evidence and, where possible, on real people. You can find out more about how people lived and worked through the centuries at many Historic Scotland properties.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 31

The xxxx Engine xxxx Shed

Kathleen Nutt spends a day with the digital documentation team Photographs: Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert

How to build a virtual world PROTÉGÉ KATHLEEN NUTT

A laser scan point cloud of Stirling Castle viewed from above

32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

BEHIND THE SCENES

MENTOR LYN WILSON Digital documentation manager

E

n route to Stirling to spend a day with Dr Lyn Wilson, I try to imagine what her job as a digital documentation manager entails. I suspect the role might involve a lot of time at a computer, but that impression is shattered quickly. Yes, some days she is desk bound – at her office in The Engine Shed – but much of her time is spent visiting historic sites and buildings, sometimes in dramatic and even traumatic circumstances.

Take 25 May 2014. Lyn was on holiday and received an urgent call asking if she would go to the Glasgow School of Art (GSA). A fire had broken out the day before, leaving much of Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s masterpiece, including its HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 33

BEHIND THE SCENES

world-renowned library, gutted and the GSA management wanted Lyn and her colleagues to do a detailed survey to assess which parts of the building had been damaged beyond repair and what could be saved or restored. When the team arrived at the scene firefighters were still extinguishing the last of the flames and the building was smouldering.

“The fire brigade had deemed it safe for us to be there, but there was a smell of burnt timbers and burnt books, which was such a horrible thing, particularly in the library,” she says.

Fortunately, the GSA had scanned the exterior of the building some time before the fire, providing a crucial reference point for the team’s work.

Laser beams Over the next six days Lyn and her team carried out detailed surveys using cutting-edge technology: threedimensional laser scanning. The scanners work by firing a beam of laser light, which bounces off surfaces and reflects back to the scanner. By measuring the time it takes the laser beam to return the scanner calculates distances and angles to create a point in three-dimensional space with x,y and z co-ordinates.

The scanner can capture one million points per second, allowing an accurate 3D representation of an object, a building or even a whole archaeological site to be created.

So while previously a surveyor would have had to spend months taking measurements by hand, walking around a building, climbing up ladders and

© CENTRE FOR DIGITAL DOCUMENTATION AND VISUALISATION

James Hepher, a surveyor/spatial analyst, fits a scanner to a tripod

Above: James scans Stirling Castle and, main image, a 3D point cloud of Glasgow School of Art which caught fire in 2014 34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

After the fire at Glasgow School of Art

WENN LTD / ALAMY

“It was a real shock going in.

It was a building we had all loved for so many years, everyone was incredibly emotional about what had happened and there were lots of health and safety considerations,” says Lyn.

edging along roofs, someone using a laser scanner can stand on the ground, point the scanner at the building and within a few hours or days have an accurate and detailed record of the structure.

Building-control experts at Glasgow City Council were particularly concerned about the building’s west façade, so Lyn and her team scanned the exterior wall from different vantage points, including from the art school’s Reid building opposite. After completing the scans they were able to calculate how much movement in millimetres there had been during the blaze by comparing their survey to the one done before the fire.

“Building control had inspected the façade and thought the whole of the wall

There was a smell of burnt timbers and burnt books had moved as a result of the fire and were really keen take it down for safety reasons,” explains Lyn. “But two days after arriving on the site we were able to sit down with them and show them a comparison of scans before and after the fire which revealed the movement was restricted to only the top part of the façade. Building control took our evidence into account when deciding what course of action to take and concluded that only the top part of the west façade needed to come down.”

Essentially, Lyn and her team’s work played a part in preventing the whole of the west façade from having to be dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt – making the job of restoring the GSA considerably less timeconsuming and expensive, allowing work to focus on where it was really required.

So with a much better idea about what her job involves it’s time to get some practical experience of digital documentation myself.

Lyn, James Hepher, a surveyor/spatial analyst with Historic Environment Scotland (HES), and I head to Stirling Castle, taking with us two laser scanners and large tripods.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 35

BEHIND THE SCENES

In front of the Great Hall we set up the tripods in the uneven cobbled courtyard.

We use built-in spirit levels to ensure the tripod's top is horizontal before attaching the scanners.

It is now just a matter of switching on the scanner, setting the scan parameters and watching it rotate, collecting information from the surfaces to create a 3D representation of the hall’s façade. As we move out of the way of the scanner we check the progress on its monitor.

The millions of points recorded on the monitor as the laser moves around the hall’s surface are called “a point cloud”.

Model behaviour At regular intervals we take each of the scanners off the tripods, move the tripods to a different position and place the scanners on top again to allow any gaps in the coverage to be filled in. After an hour or so the scan of the front façade of the Great Hall is complete.

Point clouds from different scan locations can be joined together to create a three-dimensional representation of an entire building or structure. Combining this with historical information, and data such as thermal imagery, can produce visuals that highlight the relative age of different parts of a building and its construction phases. These phases reveal the general order in which the building was constructed.

Follow-up scans of the same building over time can show how the site is

Alan Simpson instructs Kathleen Nutt in 3D printing techniques

Dr Lyn Wilson, left, shows Kathleen Nutt round The Engine Shed

The technique is being used at sites around the world

A 3D printed replica of a carving from Elgin Cathedral

weathering, by comparing any surface volume change. This information can be used by the HES conservation team to determine where to target conservation work.

Such scanning techniques are being used by heritage specialists to record the condition of sites around the world. Lyn and her team at HES have led one such ground-breaking project, The Scottish Ten. The team digitally scanned Scotland’s (as then) five UNESCO World Heritage sites – New Lanark, the Edinburgh New and Old Towns, the abandoned islands of St Kilda, the Antonine Wall and Neolithic Orkney. They also used the same techniques to survey five iconic sites overseas – the Sydney Opera House, Mount Rushmore, Rani ki Vav, India, the Eastern Qing Tombs in China and the Giant Cantilever Crane in Nagasaki, Japan.

For the project Lyn and her team worked alongside experts in 3D scanning and visualisation at Glasgow School of Art’s digital design studio and CyArk – which was founded by Ben Kacyra, inventor of one of the first laser scanners – to build a database of digital information on globally significant heritage sites.

Printing in 3D In the Engine Shed’s labs I get some more hands-on experience, this time in 3D printing, guided by Alan Simpson, the technical conservation officer.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 37

FROM MAESHOWE TO YOUR MOBILE

Kathleen Nutt tries out a virtual reality headset

Models can be used to allow historians and archaeologists to study the source artefacts A computer file of an object is connected to a 3D printer which creates a physical model of the artefact by building up layer upon layer of white resin. After a short time Alan shows me how to retrieve the rather rough-looking rubbery object. What it is will only be revealed when the item is washed.

I clean the printer of excess resin with alcohol wipes then take the ‘printed’ object, which is about 5cm or so in diameter, to a workshop where I place it in a covered container and spray it with jets of water. I’m concerned that such is the force of the water the object will break up, but it seems stronger than it appears and slowly its features emerge as the residual resin falls off. After 15

minutes or so of cleaning the full beauty of the object – a copy of a 16th-century Stirling Head in miniature – is revealed.

Alan explains that models such as this can be used by historians and archaeologists to study the source artefacts, which may be difficult to access. Such models also allow members of the public to see artefacts close up, and touch and hold them.

Virtual reality

The 5,000-year-old Maeshowe chambered cairn on Orkney was one of the sites scanned as part of the Scottish Ten project.

Dr Lyn Wilson explains that part of her team’s job is to develop ways in which the information gathered can be used to protect such sites, and also to advance our understanding of and access to them.

The data from Maeshowe allowed a team of experts to produce a virtual reconstruction of the ancient burial site using a computer program.

By making it available as a mobile app, the remote monument is accessible for the first time to millions of people in Scotland and across the world at the touch of a button. The app is available from Google Play and the App Store.

“Digital documentation is about how we can conserve buildings, objects and sites now, and help with their interpretation and access in the future,” adds Lyn.

Before I leave for the day I am treated to another astonishing way in which digital documentation is being applied by Al Rawlinson, head of digital innovation and learning – this time to create virtual reality experiences.

I put on a headset, I’m given a handset and am transported from The interactive app gives a virtual tour late 2017 into a courtyard at of Maeshowe Stirling Castle in medieval times, where I’m an archer. I can draw back my bow and shoot an arrow at a target. I do this several times, trying, though sadly failing, to get a bullseye.

This is an experience I did not expect to have today, an actionpacked way in which Lyn and the team’s work is helping bring the past to life.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 39

G R E AT D AY S O U T

SPRING loaded

From lighthouses and lairds’ homes to islands and abbeys, Indira Mann looks at 11 intriguing places to get you out and about this season

Kinnaird Head Lighthouse 16th-century castle turned lighthouse

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Kinnaird Head Castle, sited on a headland overlooking the North Sea, was built by the Fraser family. Two centuries later, the Northern Lighthouse Board saw it as the perfect spot for its first lighthouse and made the necessary alterations.

After an energising climb to the top, take in the 360-degree view and admire the large lantern. Its

silvered copper bowls were once lit by sperm whale oil.

Although in working order, the lantern’s duties have been taken over by an unmanned light. The lighthouse itself was saved from demolition in 1824, when Sir Walter Scott is said to have persuaded engineer Robert Stevenson

Ruthven Barracks Army garrison from the Jacobite era

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The ruins of Ruthven Barracks are a familiar and dramatic feature of the Highland landscape near Kingussie, but how much

do you know about them?

The barracks is one of four built by the Hanoverian government after the Jacobite Rising of 1715 and is the best preserved.

to drop plans for a purpose-built structure.

Visit the lighthouse keepers’ cottages and Museum of Scottish Lighthouses to find out more.

OPEN 26 March to 31 October, 10am-5pm. 1 November to 31 March (closed Mon), 10am-4.30pm

Exploring the ruins, you can perhaps imagine the comings and goings of redcoat soldiers, who lived (and slept two to a bed) in two three-storey blocks. In the towers you’ll find officers’ quarters, a bakehouse, a brewhouse and even a prison.

In 1745, 300 Jacobites attacked but failed to take the barracks. A second attack the following year was successful and the garrison surrendered.

OPEN all year round.

Located 1m from Kingussie, with parking available

Inchcolm Abbey and Island Worship and warfare in the Firth of Forth

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This tiny island in the Firth of Forth was the setting for an Augustinian monastery founded by David I in the 1100s.

There are many features of interest here from the island’s ecclesiastical and military past. The

canons of Inchcolm came here for a pastoral life, but the island’s location made it a target for English naval raids in the 1300s.

Take care on the paths when exploring the ruined structures built to defend Rosyth naval base, the Forth Bridge and Edinburgh

during two World Wars.

You might also spot grey seals and seabirds, but bear in mind that access to parts of the island may be reduced during nesting season (March to July).

OPEN 1 April to 30 September, 9.30am-5.30pm; 1 to

31 October, 10am-4pm.

The ferry to Inchcolm Abbey leaves from Hawes Pier, South Queensferry.

A ticket for the passenger ferry to the island must be bought separately.

Check maidoftheforth. co.uk and forthtours.com for sailing timetables

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 41

Edzell Castle and Gardens 16th-century nobleman’s home and wildlife haven

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Once home to the Lindsay family, Edzell Castle is now a picturesque ruin enclosing well-tended gardens and surrounded by wildlife. You may spot bats, barn owls, brown hares or red squirrels on your visit.

The great garden was laid out by Sir David Lindsay in 1604, and you can while away the time naming the cardinal virtues, liberal arts and planetary deities portrayed in stone panels set within the walls.

Sir David’s unique garden earned Edzell Castle its place in the European Renaissance.

OPEN 26 March to 30 September, 9.30am- 5.30pm

Skara Brae Best-preserved Neolithic village in northern Europe

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This Neolithic village on Orkney’s Atlantic coast is one of a group of monuments recognised as a World Heritage Site – and for good reason. Nowhere else in Europe provides such an emotive and revealing insight into the lives of our ancestors 4,500 years ago.

The stone walls and features of the nine surviving houses, first exposed after a huge storm

42 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

in 1850, are incredibly intact.

To protect them, you can instead explore a replica house and get a sense of life not so different from our own: a place to sleep, seek warmth, store food and display objects of value.

OPEN 26 March to 30 September, 9.30am5.30pm; 1 October to 31 March, 10am-4pm.

The site is 500m from the visitor centre along a crushed stone path

G R E AT D AY S O U T

Arbroath Abbey Birthplace of the Declaration of Arbroath Time and weather would have dominated the have assailed Arbroath harbour town.

Abbey but its “ancient You can spend hours magnificence”, as here, appreciating the described by 18th-century craft of medieval writer Dr Johnson, remains. stonemasons, testing The abbey, established your chanting skills on the in 1178 by William I, ‘the superb acoustics of the Lion’, in memory of Sacristy, and learning martyred Thomas Becket, about the abbots, who was one of Scotland’s played pivotal roles in grandest for 400 years, and Scotland’s history.

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Perhaps none more so than Abbot Bernard, who oversaw the Declaration of Arbroath, a letter to Pope John XXII in 1320 articulating the Scottish people’s desire for freedom from English rule.

OPEN all year round. 26 March to 30 September, 9.30am-5.30pm; 1 October to 31 March, 10am-4pm

Corgarff Castle 16th-century tower house and redcoat barracks

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This nobleman’s home in a secluded setting on the edge of the Cairngorms National Park has several tales to tell.

Possibly built for the Forbes family in around 1550, it became an important rallying point for the Jacobites during the Risings, when it was filled with muskets, ammunition and barrels of gunpowder.

In March 1746, 300 redcoats struggled through snow and ice to oust the Jacobites, only to

find “no living creature in the house but a poor cat sitting by the fire”.

The castle was then converted to a base for government soldiers when its distinctive star-shaped wall with musket loops was built. The redcoat barrack rooms have now been reconstructed.

OPEN 26 March to 30 September, 9.30am-5.30pm; 1 to 31 October, 10am-4pm. The castle is 350m from the car park on a path up a hill with a gradient of 1:5

Lochleven Castle Mary Queen of Scots’ island prison

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This island stronghold has welcomed, and imprisoned, some notable characters and is one of our oldest medieval monuments.

Take the short boat trip across the loch to sail in the footsteps of Robert the Bruce, David II and, of course, Mary Queen of Scots. Mary was held here

by Sir William Douglas in 1567 and was forced to abdicate in favour of her son, James VI. She escaped the following year, and

the castle was never lived in again.

You can visit Mary’s private chapel and prison room as well as other areas of the castle, such as the Glassin Tower,.

OPEN 26 March to 30 September, 10.15am-4.15pm; 1 to 31 October, 10.15am3.15pm. Boats leave from the ticket office. Due to limited capacity (12 persons per trip) all visits must be booked in advance online at historicenvironment.scot/ lochleven-castle HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 43

G R E AT D AY S O U T

Cardoness Castle Lordly life and lawlessness in medieval Galloway This elegant tower estimated it would need house was the 200 men to capture it.

15th-century home of Climb to the battlements the McCullochs, a for views over the Water wealthy family with a knack of Fleet and the Solway for attracting trouble.

Firth, then descend to The six-storey castle was the horrors of the pit built for defence as well as prison, one of the best comfort, mainly against the examples to survive threat of attack by in a Scottish tower neighbouring families. In house castle. the 1540s, an English spy OPEN 26 March to 30 described its formidable September, 9.30amposition – “[it] standeth 5.30pm. The castle is at upon an hight bancke and the top of a steep hill rocke, hard upoun the reached by a concrete watter Flete” – and path with no handrail

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Whithorn Priory Ancient place of Christian pilgrimage

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Join a long line of pilgrims, royalty and other visitors who have travelled to Scotland’s ‘cradle of Christianity’ over many centuries.

In the 900s, Christian Norse settlers arrived at Whithorn and sparked a stone-carving tradition known as the ‘Whithorn School’.

A number of these carved crosses with their intricate designs can be seen in the priory museum. Also look for

the Latinus Stone here, which dates to the 5th century, earning it the title of Scotland’s earliest Christian monument.

Scotland’s medieval kings and queens were generous benefactors, and the late 1400s and early 1500s were a golden age for the priory.

But the Protestant Reformation eventually ran its course, stripping Whithorn of its wealth and status.

OPEN 31 March to 31 October, 10.30am-5pm

Smailholm Tower Striking tower house that inspired Sir Walter Scott

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This imposing tower house on a rocky outcrop between Kelso and Galashiels tells of the tensions of Borders life during the later Middle Ages.

Built by the Pringle lairds, who were squires of the mighty ‘Black Douglas’ family, the tower later inspired Scotland’s famous son, Sir Walter Scott, to collect Borders ballads and write his own epic tales.

Scott’s ancestors acquired Smailholm in the 17th century. The

writer spent his early childhood here, listening to Borders tales told by his aunt and grandmother.

Smailholm itself had a powerful effect on Scott’s imagination, “standing stark and upright like a warden”.

Scott’s collection of ballads of Borders history and legend, ‘The Minstrelsy of the Scottish Borders’, features in a permanent exhibition in the tower.

OPEN 26 March to 30 September, 9.30am-5.30pm HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 45

Y

Spring interiors

ou can now furnish your home in our bespoke Edinburgh Castle Tweed and Tartan. Produced by Knockando Mill and Lochcarron of Scotland respectively, the designs have been influenced by the landscape and history of Edinburgh and key parts of the castle – including the grey of the cobbles, red and gold from the Honours of Scotland, and blue from the Firth of Forth.

Accessorise with our character draught excluders and make yourself comfortable with our new foot stools, all available exclusively online.

Bring Edinburgh Castle into your home with these online exclusives

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SPEND Members receive a 20% discount by using & SAVE the code MEMBER0917 at the checkout 46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

SHOP Visit the online shop at historicenvironment.scot/shop

R E TA I L

Something special Great new products available online

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Whisky frames These picture frames are made from repurposed casks, once used to age single malt whisky throughout the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.

Handcrafted in Edinburgh, each frame is uniquely numbered, with genuine Harris Tweed borders for your chosen photograph. £40

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Personalised tweed hip flask These hip flasks with genuine Harris Tweed sleeves can be personalised, perhaps with a special date, name or initials.

Each one comes with its own luxurious gift box. A selection of tweeds is available. £36 (£29 without personalisation)

Helen Ruth silk scarves Inspired by Scottish folklore and landscapes, each design starts with an illustration and its own story, from well-known tales to childhood memories, to create colourful pieces. Daughter of the Picts, for example, was inspired by the tale of The Maiden Stone.

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1. Large Edinburgh Skyline and Tweed/Tartan cushion, £98 2. Highland cow stool, £95 3. Small Edinburgh Skyline and Tweed/Tartan cushion, £35 4. Edinburgh Castle Tartan wallpaper, £29 per metre (also available in Tweed) 5. Flock of sheep draught excluder, £64 6. Highland cow draught excluder, £35

2

1. Moonlight pocket square, £35 2. Two Sisters, £155 (large)/£35 (pocket square) 3. Frolick skinny scarf, £115 4. Daughter of the Picts, £155 (large)/ £35 (pocket square)

SPECIAL DISCOUNT

FRIENDS AND FAMILY M E M B E R S H I P

I

f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership now is the time to tell your friends and family about it. They can have great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they will save 20% on their membership fee when they join. Paying by Direct Debit is great value too and, with

20% off the annual cost, a concession membership is only £2.64 a month.

MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: l Ask your friend or family member to call 0131 668 8999. Tell them

O F F E R

to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer.

We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the telephone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland property with your friend or family member and show your

membership card. Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate.

Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only.

Not available for renewals or life membership.

For details visit historicenvironment.scot/ member

FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER

1

Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top paid-for heritage attractions

48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

2

A personal copy of Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year direct to your door

3

Half-price entry into 500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the Isle of Man

4

A chance to take part in member activities – including tours, lectures and lunches

5

Discounts on Historic Scotland products and dining events

EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND

EVENTS MARCH– JUNE

Members get more Daytime events are free to members, unless otherwise stated

It’s all joust for fun at Linlithgow Palace Parking 50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Toilets

Gift shop

Restaurant/café

Reasonable wheelchair access

Picnic area

Dogs not permitted

DIARY DATES

Knights to remember Spectacular Jousting and other highlights of the year ahead Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit historicenvironment.scot/events

The Rock of Ages DUMBARTON CASTLE

Sat 9–Sun 10 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Join us at the foot of the rock to relive some of the rich history from the west coast of Scotland.

And, new for 2018 to mark the end of WWI, visit our trenches to find out what life was like for brave soldiers on the front line.

Spectacular Jousting LINLITHGOW PALACE

Sat 30 Jun–Sun 1 July; 12.30–4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/jousting Step back into medieval times and get ready to cheer on chivalric knights astride their noble steeds, in an almighty display of courage and skill. Try your hand at hobby horse jousting and wander through the

Junior knights will have a rocking good time at Dumbarton Castle in June

camps on the Peel to learn about life with the knights and their retinues.

Spectacular Jousting CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

Sat 28–Sun 29 Jul; 12.30–4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/knights Hear the thunder of hooves and the clashing of lances as we welcome our

annual jousting tournament to the medieval stronghold on the Solway shore.

Watch as the noble knights battle it out to be crowned champion, wander through the medieval encampments, meet the retinues and join in the fun.

Kings and Clansmen FORT GEORGE

Sat 11–Sun 12 Aug; 12–4pm

0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Meet the rival forces of the Jacobite uprisings face to face and find out the real stories which inspired the successful television series Outlander.

Learn secret Jacobite symbols, handle a real sword and see the fearsome highland charge.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 51

DIARY DATES Abbey. A unique opportunity not to be missed, exclusively for Historic Scotland members.

a guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past, sculpted by fire and ice.

Towns and City: Views of Urban Scotland

Linlithgow Holiday Club – Wildlife Detectives

DUFF HOUSE

Thu 29 Mar–Sun 5 Aug; 11.30am–5pm 01261 818181 historicenvironment. scot/events

A most eggsellent adventure

Easter Eggsplorer Trails VARIOUS PROPERTIES

Fri 30 Mar– Mon 2 Apr; drop in throughout the day 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events Join in our Easter eggsploration through some of our most iconic castles, abbeys, forts and

palaces. Can you find all of the clues and complete the challenge? The trail takes place at Aberdour Castle, Bishops and Earl’s Palaces, Bothwell Castle, Blackness Castle, Caerlaverock Castle, Castle Campbell,

Craigmillar Castle, Craignethan Castle, Dirleton Castle, Dryburgh Abbey, Dumbarton Castle, Dunstaffnage Castle, Elgin Cathedral, Fort George, Linlithgow Palace, St Andrews Castle, Stanley Mills and Tantallon Castle.

Featuring around 30 outstanding drawings, watercolours and prints on loan from the National Galleries of Scotland, Town and City: Views of Urban Scotland provides a fascinating look at how artists have interpreted Scottish urban life and landscape since the turn of the 17th century.

APRIL

MARCH

Brick Wonders ABERDOUR CASTLE

Until Sun 22 Apr; 10am–4pm (9.30am– 5.30pm from 1 Apr) ARBROATH ABBEY

Sat 28 Apr–Sun 8 Jul; 9.30am–5.30pm historicenvironment. scot/events See LEGO® brick recreations of amazing sights from around the world.

Curated by artist Warren Elsmore.

Standing Stones of Stenness and Parking

52 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Toilets

Barnhouse Village Walk STONES OF STENNESS

Every Wed, Mar–Jun; Mon, Wed and Fri, Jun; 10–11am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers @hes.scot

Covering Up! Explore the area around the Ring of Brodgar during our guided walk with a Ranger.

A Royal Exclusive HOLYROOD ABBEY

Join the Ranger Service for a guided tour of our oldest stone circle.

Ring of Brodgar Walk RING OF BRODGAR

Every Thur, Mar–May; Jun daily; 1-2pm 01856 841732 orkneyrangers @hes.scot Gift shop

Sat 17 Mar; 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm Booking essential historicenvironment. scot/member Royal Collection Trust invites Historic Scotland members to visit the romantic ruins of the 12th-century Holyrood

Restaurant/café

LINLITHGOW

Tue 3 Apr; 10.30am–12.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Turn into a detective and investigate the clues left behind by local wildlife. Aimed at ages 8–12, who must be accompanied by an adult.

Holyrood Holiday Club: Easter Egg-sploration HOLYROOD PARK

Wed 4 Apr; 10am–2pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

ENGINE SHED

Mon 2 Apr–Sat 14 Apr; 1–3.30pm 01786 234 800 engineshed@hes.scot Free workshops inspired by paint, plaster, prints, paper and other traditional wall coverings.

Join the Rangers for an egg hunt with a difference and test your map skills with an orienteering course across the park.

Aimed at ages 10-14.

Watch Out, Toads About!

HOLYROOD PARK

Arthur’s Secrets HOLYROOD PARK

Tue 3 Apr and every following Tue until 28 Aug; 1–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Come along on

Reasonable wheelchair access

Picnic area

Sat 7 Apr; 8.30am–10.30am Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join the Rangers to help collect toads that got stranded on their way to spawn.

Dogs not permitted

DIARY DATES The Scottish Diaspora

Holyrood Park.

Aimed at ages 10-14.

Hear historic harmonies at Stirling Castle

STANLEY MILLS

Mon 9 Apr– Thu 28 Jun; 9.30am–5.30pm (last entry 4.30pm) 01738 828 268 historicenvironment. scot/events The Scottish Diaspora Tapestry is a project that brings together stories from Scottish communities and their connections from around the world, culminating in more than 300 embroidered panels.

It is a homage to the determination, courage and achievement of Scottish migrants and their descendants across the centuries.

Holyrood Holiday Club: Holyrood Rocks!

HOLYROOD PARK

Wed 11 Apr; 10am–2pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Travel back in time 350 million years to discover the story behind the rocks of

Wild Day Out HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 14 Apr; 10am–4pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join us and RSPB Scotland for a day of discovery as you explore the wild terrain of the park.

Wildlife Photography for Beginners LINLITHGOW

Sat 21 Apr; 4.30–6.30pm Adult £10, concession £7, child £5, 10% members discount Booking essential 0131 652 8150 historicenvironment. scot/events Bring your camera down to Linlithgow Loch and learn some tips from a local wildlife photographer.

A’ fidreadh na Pàirce: Eòin: Birds

Music Through the Ages STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 14–Sun 15 April; 12.30–4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.

rangers@hes.scot Find out more about birds in Holyrood Park, as well as bird names, traditions and what they are called in Gaelic. This session is delivered in English.

MAY

scot/events events@hes.scot

as we see how music and dance have evolved – from traditional to contemporary.

Join us on a musical journey through time Sun 6 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Join the Rangers on a spring walk and learn all about the amazing flora and fauna in bloom.

Find out more about the unwelcome visit of Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan.

The Cause EDZELL CASTLE

Sat 19–Sun 20 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Peat Reek DALLAS DHU DISTILLERY

Foraging on the Peel

HOLYROOD PARK

LINLITHGOW PEEL

Fri 27 Apr; 1pm–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150

Sat 5 May; 1–3.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Explore the Peel with Anna Canning from Floremedica and learn about the ancient natural remedies that can be found around Linlithgow loch.

Sat 5–Sun 6 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Join the Covenanting Army as they’re put through their paces and discover more about their cause.

As illicit stills pepper the Highlands, join the excise man to find out how he cracks down on this illegal activity.

Robert’s Rebellion DIRLETON CASTLE

Sat 19–Sun 20 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Spring Wildlife Walk HOLYROOD PARK

A Wolf in Knight’s Clothing

Brick Wonders on show in Aberdour and Arbroath

Parking

Toilets

SPYNIE PALACE

Gift shop

Restaurant/café

Sun 13 May; 1–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Reasonable wheelchair access

Find out what happens with Robert

Picnic area

Dogs not permitted

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 53

DIARY DATES the Bruce takes his rebellion to the doors of Dirleton.

on earth building and other vernacular traditions.

Festival of Museum’s Martyrs, Masons and Monarchs

Viking Invasion

ST ANDREWS CASTLE

Sun 20 May; 12–4pm historicenvironment. scot/events Join us at St Andrews Castle and St Andrews Cathedral to celebrate the Festival of Museums. Learn how stonemasons constructed medieval buildings, meet characters from the past, and handle real artefacts excavated by archaeologists.

Introducing Scotland’s Vernacular Buildings

JUNE Find out about foliage on the Wildflower Wander

Arthur’s Adventure HOLYROOD PARK

Mon 4th, 11, 18 and 25 Jun; 1–4pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

make their first forays into the exciting world of Regency society.

Join a challenging guided walk to learn about the turbulent history of Arthur’s Seat, sculpted by fire and ice.

Sat 16 Jun; 1–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Summer Stroll

Wildflower Wander

01786 825388 historicenvironment. scot/events and www.sco.org.uk.

Booking essential

HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 23 Jun; 1pm–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

LINLITHGOW PEEL

ENGINE SHED

Thu 24 May; 9.30am–4.30pm £40, 10% members discount 01786 234 800 engineshed.scot Explore the local materials and skills used to create Scotland’s historic rural houses.

Earth Building at the Engine Shed ENGINE SHED

Fri 25–Sat 26 May; 10am–3pm 01787 234 800 engineshed.scot Join workshops and demonstrations Parking

Travel back to a time when Scotland was almost fully controlled

by Vikings and learn why Oban was of such importance to the invaders.

w

ST ANDREWS CATHEDRAL &

DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE

Sat 26–Sun 27 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Toilets

Sense and Sensibility

Learn more about Linlithgow Loch and Peel on this guided walk.

STIRLING CASTLE

Sun 10 Jun; 6.45pm for a 7.30pm start Adult £15, Concession £13, Child £10, Family Ticket £44 – 10% members discount Booking essential 0131 668 8885 stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ events Join Chapterhouse Theatre Company this summer as Elinor and Marianne Dashwood Gift shop

Scottish Chamber Orchestra DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL

Sat 16 Jun; 7.30pm Adult £19.50, 65+/Members/ People with disability: £17.50 (accompanying carers go free), U26/Student/ Unemployed: £6, U18: Free (when accompanied by a full paying adult)

Restaurant/café

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra return to Dunblane Cathedral with clarinet players Maximiliano Martín and William Stafford at the heart of a performance of Franz Krommer’s Concerto in E-flat for two clarinets.

Join a Ranger on a guided walk to learn more about the flowers and plants of Holyrood Park.

A Douglas!

A Douglas!

BOTHWELL CASTLE

Invasion in 1651

Sun 24 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

ABERDOUR CASTLE

Sat 23–Sun 24 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment. scot/events

Meet the 4th Earl of Douglas, to learn about his military campaigns in England and France before hearing what life was like in this impressive castle during the early 1400s.

Hear the sound of cannon and musket fire ring out as Scots soldiers prepare to repel invasion.

Reasonable wheelchair access

Picnic area

Dogs not permitted

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 55

ARCHIVE John Henderson’s unchosen design is now in the HES Archive

The proposal by William Henry Playfair for a 200ft-tall obelisk was unsuccessful

TIME TRIP

A grand design that was never built WHAT IS IT? To commemorate Scottish historical novelist Sir Walter Scott after his death in 1832, a competition was held to build a memorial which would stand on Edinburgh’s Princes Street.

George Meikle Kemp’s design for a Gothic tower was chosen from 55 entries submitted.

56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

An exciting recent addition to the HES Archive is the entry by Brechin-born church architect John Henderson (1804-62).

Veronica Fraser, acquisitions and loans manager, said: “The drawing adds to the body of knowledge of the competition to build the monument, as well

as architectural thinking of the time. It provides a thoughtprovoking contrast with Kemp’s executed version and with William Henry Playfair’s unsuccessful obelisk proposal, also in our holdings.”

Find out more about the Scott Monument at canmore.org.uk

© COURTESY OF HES (J HENDERSON), © COURTESY OF HES (RIAS COLLECTION), SHUTTERSTOCK

George Meikle Kemp’s winner is an Edinburgh landmark