Historic Scotland, Winter 2014 by Historic Scotland Members

Walk, eat, drink, explore: 5 top days out

GREAT EVENTS

INSIDE

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS WINTER 2014

Take a journey into

Medieval Glasgow ALEXANDER MCCALL SMITH ON THE GREAT TAPESTRY OF SCOTLAND

James II The grisly truth behind the Black Dinner

ATTACKS ON EDINBURGH CASTLE UNDER SIEGE 26 SHOCK

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Welcome to

CHRISTMAS

History can come jolting to life just when you least expect it, challenging all the usual stereotypes with breathtaking effect. This issue, Historic Scotland asks an intrepid seven-year-old reporter to dig beyond the image of industrial Glasgow into the city’s medieval past. She is enthralled by what she finds, including the cathedral, and Crookston and Bothwell castles. The respected historian David H Caldwell has uprooted evidence showing Edinburgh Castle is the most besieged place in Britain – and one of the most attacked in the world. His research, commissioned by Historic Scotland, brings into focus how desirable the castle was to royals, rogues and rebels. Peter Yeoman, the principle researcher at Historic Scotland, writes of playwright Rona Munro’s chilling journey through the dark spaces of Edinburgh Castle, in which murderous events shaped Scotland’s history. As Stirling Castle prepares to host the Great Tapestry of Scotland, Allan Burnett unpicks the history of the artform in royal life. The Great Tapestry has the power to move its audiences as it makes its way around Scotland, explains the novelist Alexander McCall Smith, who dreamed up the project. He was determined the people of Scotland should tell their own story – from the bottom up. He says: “The whole feel of the tapestry is affirmative, it’s celebratory, it’s extraordinary.” Finally, whether you like a wee dram or a stirring stroll with your history, we have five cracking winter destinations for you. Enjoy – and keep challenging those stereotypes.

MEMBERSHIP OFFER

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Contributors KATHLEEN NUTT Within these walls (P26) Kathleen is a freelance news and features journalist based in Glasgow. Her writing credits include The Sunday Times and The Herald.

SEE PAGE 49

CLAIRE BOWIE Membership and CRM Manager

MALCOLM COCHRANE, COLIN MEARNS

5 big things to see and do this issue 1

Go for a ramble around Castle Campbell P47

Enjoy Christmas dinner at Edinburgh Castle P50

Let Linlithgow ignite your imagination P43

Enjoy the view from Crookston Castle P29

Get megalithic on Orkney and beyond P13

Castle Campbell

DAVID H CALDWELL Besieged (P20) A retired archaeologist and historian, David was previously keeper of Scotland and Europe at National Museums Scotland.

ALLAN BURNETT Threads of history (P32) Author of the And All That history books for young readers, his most recent title, The Story of Scotland, was inspired by the Great Tapestry.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 1

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Walk, eat, drink, explore: 5 top days out

GREAT EVENTS

INSIDE

WINTER 2014

LOOK INSIDE HISTORIC SCOTLAND WINTER 2014

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS WINTER 2014

Take a journey into

Medieval Glasgow ALEXANDER MCCALL SMITH ON THE GREAT TAPESTRY OF SCOTLAND

James II WWW.HISTORIC%SCOTLAND.GOV.UK/MEMBER

The grisly truth behind the Black Dinner

ATTACKS ON EDINBURGH CASTLE UNDER SIEGE 26 SHOCK 00_HS_cover_chosen.indd 1

28/10/2014 11:01

Headquarters Historic Scotland Longmore House, Salisbury Place Edinburgh EH9 1SH www.historic-scotland.gov.uk Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 hs.members@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Editorial enquiries hs.magazine@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Membership & CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Editor Kathleen Morgan kathleen.morgan@thinkpublishing. co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing. co.uk Design Matthew Ball Sub-editors Sian Campbell, Sam Bartlett, Alison Chand Advertising Sales Daniel Haynes daniel.haynes@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0208 962 1257 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785, email hs.images@scotland.gsi.gov.uk, or visit www.historicscotlandimages.gov.uk Historic Scotland is an Agency within the Scottish Government and is directly responsible to Scottish Ministers for safeguarding the nation’s historic environment and promoting its understanding and enjoyment. Historic Scotland is published four times a year, and is printed on UPM Finesse, which is made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials. The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press. © Historic Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager and Historic Scotland.

38 | Peter Yeoman shows Rona Munro around Edinburgh Castle 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

7 | The medieval gun Mons Meg

MALCOLM COCHRANE

Cover: Seven-year-old Genevieve explores Glasgow Cathedral. Photograph by Angela Catlin

26 | Out and about in Glasgow

EVENTS

Get in the festive spirit and learn about Christmas past at Edinburgh and Stirling castles

32 | Great tapestries

48 | Duff House REGULARS

PLACES TO VISIT

THIS WINTER The Blackhouse, Arnol P45

Dallas Dhu P47

4 THE SCRIPT Latest news and updates from Historic Scotland sites 49 MEMBERSHIP 50 EVENTS 56 GUESS THE YEAR FEATURES

Stirling Castle P32

21 | Meet Renaissance Man 55 | Reciting Rabbie

Glasgow Cathedral P26

Aberdour Castle P18 Edinburgh Castle P7

20 BESIEGED David H Caldwell delves into Edinburgh Castle’s turbulent past 26 WITHIN THESE WALLS Kathleen Nutt gets out and about in Glasgow with her daughter 32 THREADS OF HISTORY Unravelling the story behind Stirling Castle’s unicorn tapestries and the Great Tapestry of Scotland

38 RONA MUNRO DISCOVERS The writer of The James Plays visits the real-life backdrop to her acclaimed trilogy 42 FIVE WINTER CRACKERS Find a great day out in even the coldest and wettest winter weather, featuring Linlithgow Palace, Dallas Dhu Distillery and Duff House WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 3

SCRIPT THE

PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH, COMPETITIONS, AND MORE…

INCLUDING

Gifts to swoon over at the Stirling Castle Christmas shop How to spot heritage features on Scotland’s streets Bob Tevendale coos over the doocot at Tantallon Castle Win A Work of Beauty: Alexander McCall Smith’s Edinburgh

EDINBURGH CASTLE SEES RECORD VISITOR NUMBERS FAST FACTS Visitors flock to Historic Scotland properties

EDINBURGH CASTLE was again crowned Scotland’s top tourist attraction, with record visitor numbers enjoying the site during a bumper season for Historic Scotland. The Castle saw 767,566 visitors stream through its gates between June and September this year with more than 2.1 million people enjoying Historic Scotland properties during the summer, smashing all previous records. Fiona Hyslop, the cabinet

Visitors to Edinburgh Castle were up by 3% on the previous record

4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

secretary for culture and external affairs, said: “The summer of 2014 was memorable for Scotland, with an influx of visitors to events such as the Commonwealth Games and a host of Homecomingrelated events. “Our heritage sites continue to be a hugely important asset at the heart of our tourism and cultural make up.” While the biggest boost to visitors was at Edinburgh Castle, the feel-good factor

was felt across the country. Other popular sites included Orkney, with Skara Brae and the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces attracting visitors to the islands. Meanwhile Stirling Castle, the former home of Mary, Queen of Scots, and Urquhart Castle also reported recordbreaking numbers, welcoming 256,035 and 220,025 visitors each. Membership numbers topped 150,000 for the first time in September this year, an increase of 44% in the last five years.

AUGUST 2014 AT EDINBURGH CASTLE IN NUMBERS

234,394

PEOPLE OVER THE DRAWBRIDGE

13,005

CUPS OF COFFEE SERVED

8,763

CUPS OF TEA SIPPED

11,218

SLICES OF CAKE SCOFFED

School pupils on location for the Medieval Construction Science Show

ENVIRONMENT

IN THE BAG HISTORIC SCOTLAND sites will benefit from the recent introduction by the Scottish government of a compulsory charge for carrier bags. All retailers, including Historic Scotland shops, must charge at least 5p for every single-use carrier bag beyond a certain size, whatever it is made from, following legislation introduced in October to reduce waste. Retailers are then free to use the proceeds as they choose. HS is donating any money raised to The Historic Scotland Foundation – the charitable arm of HS, which helps maintain, preserve and enhance the nation’s built heritage and environment.

Legislation means shops must now charge for carrier bags

TREASURES GO ONLINE

MALCOLM COCHRANE

DIGITAL

IT IS easy to forget that besides looking after treasured properties, Historic Scotland

HISTORY

BRINGING MEDIEVAL PAST TO LIFE AN INNOVATIVE show fusing science and history is to go digital following its success at medieval sites and science festivals across Scotland. The interactive Medieval Construction Science Show encourages children to discover how castles and abbeys were created. Most recently it captivated audiences at Arbroath Abbey and Claypotts Castle as part of the Dundee Science Festival. Video footage of the event will be on the Historic Scotland website from November, giving audiences a glimpse of the engineering feats behind large medieval structures.

cares for more than 35,000 objects associated with over 160 properties across the nation. Now, for the first time, more than 200 of the most interesting and significant objects – and the stories behind them – can be explored online. The objects are organised so visitors can easily search for

Hands-on science and technology learning

Fiona Davidson, a learning development officer with Historic Scotland, said: “The show offers something different for schools. Children, and adults, love being involved in the demonstrations.” She added: “Where possible we have also offered a chance

them by theme, date, type or property. Hugh Morrison, the Historic Scotland collections registrar, said: “The objects are a highly eclectic mix, from prehistoric bone necklaces to 20th-century cotton machinery, to give an Lighthouse keeper’s telescope

to meet Historic Scotland stonemason apprentices to link to the world of work and to compare medieval and modern skills and techniques.” The Construction Show allows pupils to trace the journey of a block of stone from a quarry to the top of an arch, unravelling scientific and technological principles such as gravity, forces and pulleys. The online film gives a taster of the 70-minute show, and encourages budding historians to visit medieval sites. FIND OUT MORE For information about forthcoming venues and to book a place, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ science-show

insight into the sheer diversity of objects in our care.” Highlights include a Neolithic paint pot, a lighthouse keeper’s telescope and 12th-century Islamic glass. www.historicscotland.gov.uk/ collections

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 5

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IN SEARCH OF SIEGE STORIES RESEARCH Edinburgh Castle is revealed as Britain’s most attacked place RESEARCH by a leading historian shows Edinburgh Castle is one of the most attacked locations in the world, having been besieged 26 times in 1,100 years, with the shortest attack lasting just half an hour. Dr David H Caldwell (right), the former keeper of Scotland and Europe at National Museums Scotland, said: “This has to be one of the most remarkable and easy captures of a major fortress in the history of warfare.” He added: “I was particularly pleased to uncover the story of the Count of Namur and his companions defending themselves behind a barricade of their dead

The Mons Meg siege gun at Edinburgh Castle

horses in 1335. Stories like that bring home how desperate situations of siege could be, and history is always much more interesting if you can associate named people with deeds of daring, courage or perseverance.” The report by Dr Caldwell was part of a year-long project by Historic Scotland to unlock the history of the castle – and give academics and visitors a deeper

understanding of the stronghold’s development. Peter Yeoman, a principal researcher at Historic Scotland, said: “David’s research highlights the tremendous strategic and symbolic importance of this mighty fortress. We were only fully aware of a fraction of these sieges before and some of them are real eye-openers.” Peter, the main author of Edinburgh Castle’s brand new Souvenir Guide, led a team of experts on the research programme.

Alan Carswell, a respected military historian, discovered how the once-grand royal apartments were transformed for everyday use by generations of Redcoats and, latterly, Highland regiments. Peter said: “We are excited by the prospect of making this available to our 1.4 million visitors drawn to the castle each year.” Read more about the sieges, page 20

COME DINE WITH US

EVENTS Take your seat for the Year of Food and Drink SCOTLAND’S natural larder will be celebrated during a year of events fusing taste and history. Historic Scotland will take part in the Year of Food and Drink, helping champion the nation’s reputation for culinary excellence. The themed programme during 2015 builds on the

success of the Homecoming Scotland 2014 festival. A Burns celebration will kick things off at Edinburgh and Stirling castles, with special menus in their cafes. Mary of Guise’s 500th birthday will be celebrated at Stirling Castle in early summer, with a special event focused

around feast preparations and medieval cuisine. Related events throughout the country will include history lessons on diet and food production, chances to prepare your own dishes and sampling authentic Scottish delights. Historic Scotland will be working closely with its catering partner,

Historic Scotland gives food for thought

Benugo, on a tasty line-up that will run throughout the year, with a special focus on Edinburgh and Stirling castles.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 7

THE CONNECTION

IMPRISONED MONARCHS

King John Balliol

David II

1346 The Auld Alliance between Scotland and France drew the Scots into battle with the English. David was wounded and taken prisoner. He was held in captivity until 1357.

James III

1482 A rebellion led by a group of noblemen confronted the king at Lauder Bridge and imprisoned him in Edinburgh Castle.

Mary, Queen of Scots 1567

Taken prisoner and forced to abdicate after marrying the Earl of Bothwell, who many believed to be her husband Darnley’s murderer, Mary was held at Lochleven Castle for almost a year.

Charles I

1647 Charles I was handed over to the English after the first civil war and held at various locations, including Carisbrooke Castle on the Isle of Wight, prior to his trial and execution in 1649.

Alexander McCall Smith, who dreamed up the idea of the Great Tapestry of Scotland

EXHIBITION

STIRLING IS NEXT VENUE TO WELCOME GREAT TAPESTRY

As Stirling Castle gears up to host the 143m-long national treasure, bestselling author Alexander McCall Smith describes its emotive effect ONE of Scotland’s best-known authors has spoken of how the tapestry he dreamed up has elicited strong emotions from the public. The 160-panel work moves to Stirling Castle in February, after exhibitions at New Lanark World Heritage Site and the Scottish parliament. Alexander McCall Smith, co-chairman of the Great Tapestry of Scotland and author of the bestselling series The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, has been taken aback by the response it has evoked. He said: “I’ve seen people weeping looking at it, saying, ‘I remember being told about that or I remember that place.’ We had no idea of the impact it would have. So many people have been so, so entranced by it.”

The writer collaborated with historian Alistair Moffat and artist Andrew Crummy to develop the tapestry, which illustrates the nation’s history from the ice age to the birth of the Scottish parliament. The creation took over a year, with more than 1,000 volunteer stitchers using 300 miles of wool. Alexander McCall Smith said: “Credit must go to Alistair’s very fair approach to the narrative. Everybody looking at it can say yes, our story is there. Nobody would feel cut out of it. In one sense it’s a people’s history, rather than history from above.” Lead stitcher Dorie Wilkie

The writer dreamed up the Great Tapestry of Scotland after seeing his collaborator Andrew Crummy’s work on The Prestonpans Tapestry, a 104m artwork telling the story of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s journey from France to victory at Prestonpans in 1745. Besides following his tapestry’s travels, the author has written A Work of Beauty: Alexander McCall Smith’s Edinburgh - a personal history of Scotland’s capital. See page 10 for a chance to win a copy. Read more about Stirling’s tapestries, page 10. The Great Tapestry of Scotland is at New Lanark World Heritage Site until 22 November - admission fee applies. It is hosted at Stirling Castle from 31 January-8 March

ALEX HEWITT

1296 Captured by the English at Stracathro and forced to abdicate, he was imprisoned in the Tower of London. In 1299, he was released to go to France to be in the custody of the Pope, and then the King of France.

THE SCRIPT

Around 30 pipistrelle bats interrupted conservation work

ACCOLADES

COMPOSER BACKS AWARDS ANDREW Lloyd Webber has given his support to the first awards to recognise volunteers who protect and celebrate Scotland’s historic environment. The Scottish Heritage Angel Awards are being supported by the Andrew Lloyd Webber Foundation, which has pledged more than £120,000 to the scheme in its first two years. The writer of Cats and Phantom of the Opera, who is half Scottish, said: “Protecting our architectural heritage is a vital part of our cultural life. Architecture is the most vulnerable

art form. The Angel Awards are a brilliant way of saying thank you to those who have made a significant contribution towards protecting our heritage.” Fiona Hyslop, cabinet secretary for culture and external affairs, said: “Scotland’s heritage is of us all - and for us all.” The awards are the result of a partnership Lloyd between the Webber: Foundation, ”A brilliant Historic way of saying thanks“ Scotland, the Scottish government, the Scottish Civic Trust and the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland.

GREAT TICKET GIVEAWAY THOUSANDS of free tickets are to be offered in the Historic Scotland Ticket Giveaway over the St Andrew’s Day weekend of 29-30 November. Why not tell your friends? Non-members are given free admission to a range of outstanding Historic Scotland locations, including Edinburgh,

Stirling and Urquhart castles. Pre-registration is required to participate in the event, part of the Year of Homecoming celebrations. The weekend will coincide with the start of Scotland’s winter festival. Go to www.ticketgiveaway.co.uk for further information.

Urquhart Castle

NATURE

TEAMWORK KEEPS CASTLE BATS SAFE

A NEW breed of VIP is being catered for at a 16th-century castle, long after King James V and Mary, Queen of Scots, graced its rooms. Around 30 pipistrelle bats interrupted plans to strengthen the ceiling vault of the Great Hall at Craignethan Castle, South Lanarkshire. The common and soprano pipistrelle bats had been discovered using the space as a seasonal hibernation roost during a survey of the castle. It is forbidden to disturb bats – a European protected species – or the places where they roost, so a licence was requested from Scottish Natural Heritage to allow conservation work to continue. Historic Scotland teamed up with the specialist consultants JDC Ecology to implement a detailed bat-protection plan. Describing the measures begun last April, Paul Beaton, the district architect for Historic Scotland, said: “Our masonry conservation works had to fit in with the life cycle

of the bats and it was decided the best way of safeguarding them was to wait until spring 2014 when they emerged from their roost. Once we were satisfied the bats were out, we netted the vault to create a contained space.” A framework of mesh over openings ensured no bats could roost in the vault while stone repair and repointing was carried out. A bat box was installed nearby to provide alternative accommodation. The exclusion measures remained in place until work was completed in October. Craignethan Castle: a seasonal hibernation roost

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 9

THE SCRIPT

WIN

Tantallon’s dovecot is in the 17th-century lectern style

A WORK OF BEAUTY

More than a home for pigeons, a dovecot is something to shout about, says Bob Tevendale, the natural history adviser for Historic Scotland From medieval times onwards a dovecot, or doocot, was a prominent feature of many prestigious buildings, from monasteries to royal castles. Dovecots were home to domesticated pigeons, or doos, a species of rock dove, which were bred to provide eggs and meat. Most prized were the newly fledged young birds, called squabs or peesers. The young birds were eaten at about four weeks, before they learned to fly – the exercise would toughen meat. Rare in midwinter, the young birds would have been the centrepiece at the top table at a Christmas feast. A dovecot was often planned as an overt show of wealth and importance, and could be a large, monumental building for the period. To build one in stone would involve considerable expense at a time when most people lived in a thatched hut shared with a byre. Dovecots also required a keeper to be employed. Rather than being hidden away, dovecots tend to be positioned openly and proudly – as for example at Tantallon Castle in East Lothian (above). Where the main residence is 10 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS

hidden from the road, the dovecot might be near the main thoroughfare – inconveniently for its practical use – as at Mavisbank House in Midlothian. The house is in the valley, but the dovecot overlooks the Lasswade to Loanhead road, advertising its presence. Dovecots came relatively late to Scotland. Common elsewhere in the Roman Empire, dovecots were introduced to Britain by the Normans in the 11th century. One of the first in Scotland was built during the 16th century into the wall of Crossraguel Abbey, South Ayrshire. The early dovecots were of the beehive form, shaped like a straw bell-shaped skep. By the 17th century the lectern type had superseded this classic form, as at Tantallon. The Tantallon dovecot exhibits many classic design features. It has an obvious anti-rodent defence: a string course, or projecting stone ledge, preventing rats and mice from climbing up and entering via the flight holes. The dovecot keeper entered via a small doorway at ground level, designed with a close-fitting door, again to keep out vermin. The small arched ventilation hole would have been fitted with a metal grille. The door was further secured by a yett – an iron grille gate – to keep out poachers.

PRIZE QUESTION Who designed the Edinburgh New Town? Post your answer and details to McCall Smith Competition, Think Scotland, Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA, or email hs.comps@thinkpublishing. co.uk (including “McCall Smith Competition” in the subject line). The closing date for entries is 6 January. SPECIAL MEMBERS OFFER Order your copy for a special price of £18.99 (RRP £25) with free UK delivery. To receive your discount call Booksource on 0845 370 0067, MondayFriday, 9am-5pm, and quote “Edinburgh”. Visit www. rcahms.gov.uk/news/rcahmshistoric-scotland-books

MALCOLM COCHRANE, SHUTTERSTOCK

Give doos their dues

Published by RCAHMS and Historic Scotland Books, A Work of Beauty: Alexander McCall Smith’s Edinburgh is a portrait of a city shaped by intellectualism, geology and ambition. Using photography, illustrations and maps from the RCAHMS collection, it traces the city’s social and architectural history, from the medieval Old Town, through the Georgian New Town to the birth of the Scottish parliament. We have three copies to give away. For your chance to win, answer the following:

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THE SCRIPT

WHERE STONES STAND TALL

MONOLITHS AND MEGALITHS

The Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness are just two of many megalithic structures across the UK. Our ancestors also erected large stones in often mysterious formations much further afield. We look at examples from around the world - and guide you to some striking sites worth discovering in Scotland

Stonehenge

Wiltshire, England A study of land in the area has revealed a lot about settlements and burial sites nearby. The henge itself remains largely unexplained, though. One of its mysteries is how huge stones from Wales made it all the way to Wiltshire, prior to the invention of the wheel. CLOSER TO HOME

The Standing Stones of Stenness, erected around 31002900BC, are believed to pre-date Stonehenge by a few hundred years.

Zorats Karer

Syunik, Armenia Also known as Karahunj, this site dates from around 7,500 years ago. Many of the stones have holes in them, although their origin and purpose have been broadly disputed. Recent research refuted claims that they are connected to astronomical observations. CLOSER TO HOME

The Ring of Brodgar stones form a much neater circle.

THE STANDING STONES OF STENNESS !ORKNEY)

THE RING OF BRODGAR !ORKNEY)

CALANAIS !ISLE OF LEWIS)

MELROSE ABBEY !BORDERS)

Carnac Stones

Brittany, France More than 3,000 standing stones feature in megalithic sites around Carnac. In recent years, some stones have been removed for the construction of roads, and some dolmen structures – two or more upright stones with a stone across the top – have been repurposed as animal shelters.

Moai

CLOSER TO HOME

Rapa Nui (Easter Island) The monolithic Moai, of which there are over 880, have more character than the other stones on this list – because they were carved into oddly proportioned statues. It is thought these giant-headed marvels made of tuff (volcanic ash) were built to honour ancestors, and were believed to hold special powers.

The Western Isles boast many standing stones. Calanais is one of the most complete stone circles in Europe.

If you favour stones with faces, Melrose Abbey has some weird and wonderful gargoyles.

CLOSER TO HOME

OPENING TIMES

IN THIS YEAR

1649

After many conflicts with parliament, King Charles I, the son of James VI, was executed for high treason. He was born in Dunfermline Palace.

After his father’s death Charles II was declared king by the parliament of Scotland, in defiance of Oliver Cromwell’s abolition of the monarchy.

This old parish church in Westruther, Berwickshire, was built. Used for almost 200 years, its roofless remains are now B-listed.

One of the great Scottish witch hunts began, with people – mostly women – tried at various locations, such as Dirleton Castle.

Visit historic-scotland. gov.uk to see winter opening hours. In case of unexpected closures, check historic-scotland. gov.uk/hsclosure or search Twitter for #hsclosure

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 13

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THE SCRIPT

STREET NOTICE

HERITAGE

From fingerposts to police boxes and even a urinal, unexpected treasures abound on Scotland’s byways OPEN your eyes and you’ll find glimpses of the nation’s heritage beyond the more obvious castles and forts. Here are five street features designated as listed buildings or scheduled monuments.

Portobello pottery kilns

Portobello, Edinburgh The Thistle Pottery, founded around 1770, was once one of Scotland’s main centres for industrial ceramic production. Rebuilt and extended in 1879, the pottery was closed in 1972. Its legacy is Scotland’s last surviving bottle kilns, built in

1906 and 1909, now a scheduled monument. Restoration work on the 1909 kiln by Historic Scotland in collaboration with Edinburgh City Council was completed in May 2014. Excavations have revealed waste from the kilns – including 19th-century pottery shards – had been dumped to level the ground.

Walkerburn urinal

A lot of bottle: these kilns are now scheduled monuments

Walkerburn, Scottish Borders This 19th-century cast-iron public urinal, A-listed due to its rarity, has survived many more modern men’s conveniences. Opposite Tweedvale Mill and still used for its original purpose, it has a gargoyle waterspout and two stalls, each embossed with the words: “Please adjust your dress before leaving.” Still pointing the way today

RESEARCH BY LISA JAHANARAI

Police box

Cathedral Square, Glasgow It is difficult to miss the distinctive blue police box sitting in the shadow of Glasgow Cathedral. The police boxes, which inspired the time-travelling Tardis for Dr Who, served as miniature stations for officers on patrol during the early to mid-20th century. The four remaining boxes in Glasgow are understood to be the last of the originals. This one still has a red panel - a reminder police boxes were scarlet until the late 1960s.

Edward VIII post box

Glasgow The significance of this post box, erected in 1936 during the 325-day reign of Edward VIII, could easily be missed. Although 161 pillar boxes were erected throughout Britain before Edward’s abdication, most were subsequently altered. Look closely at this one, B-listed in 2010 due to its interest, and you’ll see the EVIIIR logo in raised, gothic script.

Fingerpost

Angus This rare, white-painted, cast-iron signpost guides wandering travellers, showing the distance to destinations with a finger pointing the way. Similar signs once peppered the roads of Scotland before being removed in WWII to avoid helping enemy navigation. Although fingerposts were largely replaced in the late 1940s, some survive today. WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 15

THE SCRIPT

IT’S A ROYAL WRAP

SHOPPING

Historic Scotland offers a memorable gift-buying experience FESTIVE consumers eager to escape the high street can shop in style following the launch of Historic Scotland’s first Christmas outlet. The Clan and Christmas shop at Stirling Castle is targeted at shoppers from the town, as well as Historic Scotland members. A selection of decorations and gift ideas include tweed bags, clan scarves and cashmere goods for the home, arranged according to themes such as Christmas fun, shades of red, and traditional. Natasha Troitino, Historic Scotland head of merchandise and product development, said: “We wanted to create a shop people would love to visit, and allow them to become completely immersed in Christmas.” Clan and Christmas at the Stirling Castle esplanade is open until 31 March. Parking is free for Historic Scotland members until then.

Cashmere scarf by Johnstons of Elgin (£152); grey Arran trapper hat (£13.95); white teapot (£14.99)

Stag head cushion (£15.50); knitted cream throw (£47)

Christmas pudding stocking (£10.99); tree mug (£6.50) and matching tree jug (£13.50)

Red cashmere scarf by Johnstons of Elgin (£92); clip-on rose with glitter (£1.50)

See page 50 for more on Christmas with Historic Scotland.

Stirling Castle: a festive pioneer

Snowman (£300); wreath with red berries and glitter (£17.50) 16 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

FESTIVE FACTS

WHY DID CHRISTMAS VANISH FROM SCOTLAND?

Harris Tweed rectangular cushion (£22); angel with tartan dress (£40)

BUYING gifts to indulge your loved ones with life’s little luxuries is all part of the Christmas experience for many. Until the 1900s, however, the nation had a far more complex relationship with the festive season, depending on who was in power – and passing legislation. Christmas tradition had taken a bashing after the Reformation of 1560, and barely recovered until last century, when the appetite for all things yuletide returned. “Before the Reformation of 1560, Christmas in Scotland was like any other European country,” explains Nicki Scott, a Historic Scotland cultural resources adviser. “There was feasting, gift giving, decorating your house, putting greenery up round the doors to ward off evil, musicians, and a boar’s head as the centrepiece of your feast. It had all the lavishness and overindulgence you associate with Christmas now.” Scots were attached to the rituals and traditions of Christmas, with indulgence permitted during the 12-day festive season pre-Reformation. But it was increasingly frowned upon afterwards. “There were attempts in the 1550s to regulate what people ate,” says Nicki. “At Christmas, though, you could do what you liked – you could indulge in as much as you could pay for. “That changed with the

“If it wasn’t in the Bible, you couldn’t have it”

xx xx

James VI: full of Christmas cheer Reformation. It was back to basics. If it wasn’t in the Bible, you couldn’t have it. Christmas is actually a celebration of Christ’s mass, and mass was abolished at the Reformation.” The authorities’ attitude to Christmas fluctuated depending on who was in power. “In the 1600s, James VI of Scotland passed a law saying you should be able to celebrate Christmas. It wasn’t popular, and is one of the things that helped spark civil war under Charles I,” Nicki explains. By the end of the 1660s Christmas had been banned – Presbyterian Protestantism had won the day and December 25 was a day like any other. Christmas has returned to our homes, shops and castles with gusto – along with its traditions of giving, decking the halls and indulging. But while you enjoy the festive season this year, without interference from royals and reformers, remember it was a little more complicated in the past.

Gold glitter reindeer decoration (£2.99) WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 17

SPOTLIGHT ON

ABERDOUR CASTLE Adapted throughout the ages, these walls have a great many tales to tell The original hall house was probably built by the same stonemasons responsible for nearby Inchcolm Abbey. Its 12th-century stonework is still present in the much grander, 15th-century tower house it became. Aberdour was continuously occupied for around 500 years, by Mortimers, Randolphs and Douglases, including James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton. Many of its residents made significant alterations, creating a patchwork of 12th to 17thcentury architecture.

EXPLORE

The castle boasts many intriguing features, such as the oyster shells in the masonry of the central range built in the 16th century. Oysters were cheap and widely available at the time. Open Mon-Wed, Sat/Sun, 9.30am-4.30pm. Visit www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/aberdourcastle

WALLED GARDEN A 17th-century addition that served a range of purposes, including growing an impressive range of fruit and vegetables, and for playing lawn bowls.

The collapsed tower house

ABERDOUR CASTLE

Aberdour Castle is only a threeminute walk from Aberdour train station

TIMELINE

18 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

C1150

1325

1342

1566

1572

Alan de Mortimer is the probable builder of the original hall house at Aberdour, alongside the neighbouring St Fillan’s Church (pictured left)

King Robert I gives Aberdour to his nephew, Thomas Randolph, 1st Earl of Moray

John Randolph, 3rd Earl of Moray, gives the property to Sir William Douglas as recognition of his courage in battle

The Queen’s Catholic adviser, David Riccio, is murdered. James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton, is implicated but flees to England

James governs Scotland as a regent, five years after Queen Mary’s abdication

THE SCRIPT

Discover a patchwork of architecture at the castle

DOVECOT Probably dating from the 16th century, the beehive-shaped dovecot provided a source of food for the household

TOWER HOUSE REMAINS This 15th-century conversion of a 12th century hall house suffered badly during the castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s later years

EAST RANGE Added by the 8th Earl of Morton in the 17th century, it was kept in good condition and has been partially restored. The painted ceiling in the projecting wing is a particular favourite with visitors.

CENTRAL RANGE The Privy Council met here in 1576, during James Mortonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regency. He also used it for dining and entertaining

1606

1680s

1687

1720s

1890

1924

1970s

Another Sir William Douglas, the 8th Earl of Morton, inherits Aberdour. In subsequent years he adds features to the castle including the east range and walled garden

A fire causes substantial damage to the buildings

A range of exciting new plants and flowers are planted in the garden, sourced from the Physic Garden in Edinburgh

Following another fire in 1715, the Douglas family moved their permanent residence to nearby Aberdour House

Having been left to fall into further ruin, the tower house collapses

Aberdour Castle is passed into state care

The 17th-century sundial that stands at the centre of the walled garden is brought to Aberdour Castle, probably from Castle Wigg

EDINBURGH CASTLE SIEGES

Attacked 26 times in 11 centuries, EDINBURGH CASTLE is the most coveted place in Britain. David H Caldwell explains why

20 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

esired by kings and defended by garrisons, Edinburgh Castle has been under siege for more than 1,000 years. Only recently, though, has research revealed this historic fortress is the most besieged place in Great Britain – and one of the most attacked in the world. In a report commissioned by Historic Scotland, I have built a clearer picture of the castle that dominates the skyline of Scotland’s capital. Using early histories and chronicles, and revisiting wellknown accounts of the castle under siege, I have uncovered the detail behind stories of courage and perseverance. So where did it all begin? In the 7th century, Edinburgh’s Castle Rock appears to have been held by a people known as the Gododdin against the Scots to the west and Bernicians to the

south. Irish chroniclers wrote about a siege in about AD640 that could have been King Oswald of Bernicia’s attempt to capture the stronghold as his people pushed up from Northumberland to conquer Lothian. If so, this would be the first recorded attack on the Castle Rock. I calculate a further 25 sieges followed over the next 1,100 years. This is most likely an underestimate, since records from the medieval period are so poor. During much of the castle’s history, it was a desirable location for a royal palace, as well as an administrative centre, treasure house and arsenal. It came to be viewed as the symbolic and strategic key to the kingdom. For some of the 14th century, though, it was reduced to little more than windswept foundation stones. In 1314, the castle was captured from its English garrison in a night-time escapade led by Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, and destroyed – apart from St Margaret’s Edinburgh Castle, perched atop its rock, has proved irresistible for more than a millennium

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 21

EDINBURGH CASTLE SIEGES

Chapel – to prevent its future use against the Scots. A strange, desperate siege resulted in 1335. Guy, Count of Namur, arrived in Scotland too late to join the main English army led by Edward III in person. Guy’s force was attacked outside Edinburgh by loyal Scots and pushed back, fighting all the way through Edinburgh to the Castle Rock. The destruction of the castle had been so thorough that they had to kill their horses for use as makeshift defences. After capitulation, the Scots allowed Guy and his men to return home – a key factor being that he was French, not English. For most of its history, the castle was seen as impregnable. Although one of the fortress’s chief functions was to protect

The proximity of the town was often the castle’s main weakness Edinburgh, its main weakness was often the proximity of the city, where enemy forces could lodge and gun batteries could be erected. Castle commanders like Walter Dundas in 1650, faced with a besieging force under Oliver Cromwell, and the Duke of Gordon in 1689, were reluctant to fire their artillery into the city and risk civilian casualties. Besieging forces also tried to take the castle by digging mines, most prominently

THE HALF!HOUR SIEGE, 1639 As the Covenanters entered into open conflict with Charles I, they were aided by the return of Alexander Leslie, a soldier who had served as a field marshal in the Swedish army. His capture of Edinburgh Castle on 21 March saw the start of the First Bishops’ War.

22 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Leslie, with a party of noblemen, officers and soldiers, went to the castle to parley with Archibald Haldane, its constable, ostensibly to persuade him to change sides. A petard was attached to the outer gate and, once it had exploded, a full-scale assault was mounted on the

The Half Hour Siege precipitated the First Bishops’ War

in 1640 when the stronghold was held for Charles I against the Covenanters, a Scottish Presbyterian movement. The Covenanters dug their way under the Spur, a large outwork on the site of the Esplanade, planning to explode a mine under its wall and take the fortress. They underestimated the castle’s highlyexperienced captain, Patrick Ruthven who, anticipating an attack, withdrew his men and artillery from the Spur, focusing his defence on the castle itself. The mine was exploded and an attacking force advanced through the breach only to find the rest of the fortress held against them, leaving them like ‘‘silly mice in a trap’’. Many were picked off by the castle garrison before a retreat was ordered.

inner two gates with axes, hammers and ‘‘ramming-leddirs’’. So unprepared and unnerved was the castle garrison that it offered no resistance and the castle was taken within half an hour ‘‘without a stroke’’, representing one of the most remarkable and easy captures of a major fortress in history.

PREVIOUS PAGE: ALAMY

Gun batteries were erected in the city of Edinburgh and used as bases to attack the castle

There had, as yet, been no open hostilities and Haldane was unprepared for that state of affairs to change. The petard, an explosive device designed to blow open a gate, was probably attached without the defenders being aware it was happening. Leslie’s assault was

Artillery – large siege guns – were often the weapons of choice for battering the castle into submission, most devastatingly over two weeks in May 1573, when the two-year Lang Siege was brought to a dramatic conclusion. The castle was held by supporters of the exiled Mary, Queen of Scots. It was crucial for the supporters of her son, James VI, to get their opponents out and they secured substantial English backing in the form of a well-manned artillery train under the command of Sir William Drury. The Scots provided other guns and men with which to ring the castle with entrenchments and gun batteries. The major effort was focused on the east of the castle, facing the town. Mary’s supporters were fortunate in their captain, Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange, an experienced soldier of considerable energy, but he could do little against the concentrated enemy firepower. The bombardment started on 17 May, and within five days all the castle guns had been put out of action and much of the castle ruined. Two simultaneous assaults were made on 26 May and, although Kirkcaldy and his men prevented the besiegers from overrunning the castle, the game was up. That night, he opened negotiations, surrendering on 28 May. The present appearance of the castle owes much to the bombardment of 1573 – the Half Moon Battery was erected to replace the towers and walls destroyed. Kirkcaldy was later executed by his Scottish enemies. He is seen as either

opportunistic, but he had obviously prepared well. Having obtained entrance to the Spur, his men were briefed and equipped to take the Inner Barrier and the Portcullis Gate. Everything we know about Leslie’s career would indicate that he would only have embarked on such a bold plan if he was reasonably

sure that he could force all three gates without serious opposition. Leslie was one of the greatest generals Scotland produced, despite being undeservedly largely forgotten. His capture of the castle in 1639, so swiftly and with no loss of life, ranks as a truly great moment in the fortress’s history.

BESIEGERS VS DEFENDERS SOME OF THE MAIN FIXTURES

640 Possibly the earliest mention of the Castle Rock under siege, perhaps being defended by the Gododdin against King Oswald of Bernicia.

1314 Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, helped and advised by William Francis, the son of a previous keeper of the castle, adopted a daring plan to take it by climbing in the dark up the north face of the Castle Rock and scaling the walls by ladders. Before the whole party could get into the stronghold, the alarm was raised and the English constable and others rushed to oppose them. Despite being outnumbered, though, Moray and his compatriots soon won the upper hand. 1571*73 The Lang Siege, in which the supporters of Mary, Queen of Scots, under Kirkcaldy of Grange held out against three successive Scottish regents. The castle was finally blasted into submission with an artillery train sent from England. 1639 Alexander Leslie easily took the castle, blowing up the outer gate with a petard.

1650 Walter Dundas has been criticised for surrendering the castle to Cromwell after a three-month siege. Although it suffered little damage, the castle remained well supplied, and he had foiled an attempt at mining.

1745 Despite taking the city of Edinburgh Prince Charles and his Highland army were unable to seriously threaten the castle, only blockade it. This was the last time the castle was besieged.

1093 Queen Margaret, the wife of King Malcolm III, was lying at the point of death in Edinburgh Castle when her son Edgar brought news of the death of the king and her eldest son Edward while campaigning in England. She died shortly afterwards and the castle was besieged by the king’s half brother Donald Ban. He knew that the king’s rightful and lawful heirs – Edgar and his younger brothers – were in the castle and he clearly intended to take the kingship for himself. That he did. The queen’s body is said to have been removed from the castle via an unwatched postern (or secondary) gate. 1341 William Douglas of Liddesdale had a force of men hidden near the castle while Walter Curry, an Edinburgh ‘burgess’ (political official), pretending to be an English merchant, arranged to deliver supplies. As soon as the gate was opened he and his companions killed the gate-keepers, jammed the portcullis and sounded a horn as a signal for Douglas and his party to rush in and take the castle. 1640 The royalist commander, Patrick Ruthven, held out in the castle against the Covenanters. He suffered an artillery bombardment, the mining of the Spur and a blockade before finally being forced to surrender after three months.

1689 The Duke of Gordon kept the castle for three months on behalf of his exiled master, King James VII, despite a lack of supplies and several men who had no heart for the struggle. An unseasonal fall of snow in May helped top up the supply of water but the garrison was reduced to living in the vaults as a protection against mortar shells.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 23

EDINBURGH CASTLE SIEGES

The heroes of the sieges on Edinburgh included youths and women

one of the great heroes or villains of the castleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story. There are plenty more, and not just leaders and noblemen. The heroes include William Francis, a lovesick youth in the castle garrison who found a way down the rock for nocturnal visits to his girlfriend. He was thus able in 1314 to guide Thomas Randolph and his men up the rock. Then there was the Edinburgh burgess,

Walter Curry, who convinced the English garrison he was a merchant to supply it. He created a diversion at the entrance gate, jamming a stake in place to prevent the portcullis being lowered, thus giving enough time for a force under William Douglas of Liddesdale to emerge and capture the castle. Among the rogues was one Lewyn, a Welshman selected by King Edward I

during the siege of 1296 to take letters to London. He spent his travel money on drink and attempted to sell the letters to the Scottish constable of the castle. In 1715 Sergeant William Ainslie, one of the castle garrison, was caught allowing Jacobite sympathisers to scale the walls. Women figure in the story of several sieges. St Margaret died in 1093, just before Donald Ban besieged the castle. Her body was spirited away secretly by night. In 1255, an English force took the castle at the behest of Margaret, the English queen of Alexander III, who wanted to cohabit with her boy husband. An account of the 1640 siege mentions a girl serving officers of the besieging force in a house on Castlehill. A cannonball, fired from the castle, passed between her legs. She survived but suffered much ribald comment. In the 1689 siege women made night-time sorties for supplies and intelligence, and helped defend the walls during scares. The days of Edinburgh Castle under siege are long gone, the attacking forces and defending garrisions part of a rich and compelling history. Instead, the fortress is now assailed by an eager force of visitors - 1.4 million last year.

THE WEAPONS OF CHOICE

Medieval gun Mons Meg

GUNS By the 15th century, guns were a better alternative to trebuchets. An example of a large gun, Mons Meg was acquired by the Scots in 1457 and is now one of the star exhibits in Edinburgh Castle. She fired 46cm

24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

stone balls but was cumbersome and inefficient. Much more effective were the siege guns of the late 15th century, made of cast bronze, later cast iron, and capable of firing pieces of shot a mile or more. In the 16th century, the castle

was home of the royal artillery train, a gun foundry and workshops for making and equipping new guns. In sieges, the castle garrison was often able to hold its own by firing on enemy gun positions. MORTARS The castle was an easy target for large mortars, notably in the siege of 1689. These lobbed explosive shells high over the castle walls, which came crashing down,

sometimes on roofs and buildings, before exploding. LADDERS Simple and cheap, and normally made of rope with grappling hooks, these were used brilliantly in 1314 by Scottish patriots but not so cleverly in the failed Jacobite attempt on the castle in 1715.

TREBUCHETS In 1296, the English king, Edward I, positioned large stone-throwing engines around the castle, subjecting it to a heavy bombardment for three days. The garrison was instructed to surrender by the Scottish king, John, since he could do nothing to help it. Trebuchets hurled stones with great force

These engines were probably trebuchets, which had a beam pivoting on a fulcrum, like a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seesaw. In their simplest form, at one end of the beam was a heavy weight or counter-balance and at the other a sling for a stone projectile. The end of the beam was held down, and the sling loaded with a stone. When the beam was released the weight of the counterbalance caused the sling to fly up, releasing its stone with great force.

OUT AND ABOUT GL ASGOW

WITHIN THESE WALLS

Castles and legends inspire KATHLEEN NUTT and her daughter on a journey of discovery

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANGELA CATLIN

LASGOW IS FAMED AS A SHIPBUILDING AND trading centre, earning it the title Second City of the Empire in Victorian times. Scratch the surface of the post-industrial age, though, and you can find a place steeped in its medieval past. It is this forgotten Glasgow which I set off to uncover with my seven-year-old daughter Genevieve. Both Glaswegians – Genevieve by birth, me by residence – we come across tales of persecution and murder as well as stories about the lives of noblemen, soldiers and saints. An artist’s impression of the city around 1520 shows a thriving urban centre along the sweep of the High Street with a grammar school, university, burial ground, hospital and prison. Place names such as Blackfriars Street, Nicholas Street and Rottenrow are clues to the city’s medieval past. Most of the early buildings in this part of the city were flattened by the Victorians, keen to obliterate overcrowded, disease-infested slums, although some dating back to the 17th century remain. We walk past the Tolbooth steeple, a tower at the junction of the High Street and the Trongate that once formed part of a larger building including the town clerk’s office and a prison. At the Trongate we see the remains of the Tron Kirk’s steeple jutting out in the street. Further up the High Street and into Castle Street we discover more signs of Glasgow’s medieval past. Provand’s Lordship, a large, three-storey building, is well preserved despite having been occupied at various stages by tenants who probably had little sense of its historical importance. In the mid-19th century the ground floor housed a tavern, while

KATHLEEN NUTT is a freelance journalist based in central Scotland. Her seven-year-old daughter Genevieve has a love of castles, inspired by the BBC children’s programme Horrible Histories

TOUR NOTES Kathleen and Genevieve took a trip around Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest city and its surrounding sites

Glasgow Cathedral A medieval marvel that is one of few to survive the 1560 Reformation

Crookston Castle A 15th-century castle set within 12th-century earthworks

Bothwell Castle Changed hands many times during the Wars of Independence Reference book at the ready, seven-year-old Genevieve gets ready to explore Crookston Castle, Glasgow

OUT AND ABOUT GL ASGOW

later uses included a hairdresser’s and a sweet shop. It is the city’s oldest house, built in 1471, probably as a manse for the hospital of St Nicholas, which lay close to its southern side. It is across the road at Glasgow Cathedral, though, that our exploration of the city’s medieval past begins in earnest. GLASGOW CATHEDRAL enevieve and I are privileged to have as our guide Adrian Cox, cutural resources adviser at Historic Scotland. When we visit, singers are rehearsing Fragments of Gold, a fusion of medieval and contemporary electronic music composed by drum ’n’ bass DJ Goldie for that evening’s performance, and the chants add to the atmosphere suggesting this is indeed an ancient and hallowed place. Dominating the 13th-century nave is the Creation, the stained-glass west window by Francis Spear, installed in 1958. Genevieve is bowled over; lying on the floor to study the images of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden. She loves looking at the colours in the window and spotting the animals, particularly the lion, and seeing the moon, sun and stars. Still in the nave, Genevieve is keen to find out about the memorials to soldiers killed in battle. She is curious about the bronze helmet, sword and gauntlets on the north side of the nave in memory of Robert Burn Anderson, a captured Glaswegian officer in the Bombay Fusiliers. He was taken prisoner while serving in China where he died aged 26. From there we head towards a second part of the church, the choir, separated from the nave by the choirscreen or pulpitum – a stone structure dating back to the 15th century. It is among the only screens of its kind left in pre-Reformation churches in Scotland. Catching our interest most are the seven distinctive and slightly troubling figures thought to represent married couples, sitting on top of the screen. The figures are believed to portray a couple’s life from their idyllic early years through to grumpy old age. I think it best not to ask Genevieve which of them look most like her mum and dad. Leaving the nave, there is a wealth of

28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

In the shadow of Glasgow Cathedral, Genevieve begins a trip into medieval times

Catching our interest are seven slightly troubling figures on a screen … architectural features to admire in the choir and the Blacader Aisle. This is one of the most recent parts of the cathedral to be built and was overseen by Archbishop Robert Blackadder in the 15th century. We love the choir’s oak ceiling and its carved and painted bosses, while the freshness of the whitewashed walls of the Blackadder Aisle also stands out. We feel overwhelmingly that the heart of the cathedral is in the lower church, one of the oldest parts of the

building, with some parts dating back to the 12th century. In the lower church lies the tomb of Glasgow’s founder and patron saint, St Kentigern – also known as St Mungo, probably meaning dear one. He was canonised and became the patron saint of Glasgow, with his feast day on 13 January. It is believed Kentigern was buried in the church he founded. Genevieve loves looking at Kentigern’s tomb and the 1970s tapestry hanging beside it that illustrates his life. Absorbed by Adrian’s stories of the saint, she is particularly enthralled by the tale of a young Kentigern resurrecting a robin – the bird had perished after other boys had played too roughly with it. In the cathedral’s grounds we notice

OUT AND ABOUT GL ASGOW

THE GLASGOW CATHEDRAL STORY Mid to late 500s Kentigern brings the body of a holy man, Fergus, from Fife and founds the first church on the site.

c.614 St Kentigern dies. 1136 Dedication of the stone cathedral during the reign of King David I. 1181 Bishop Jocelyn is recorded as ‘gloriously enlarging’ his cathedral. A fire destroys or damages much of the building. 1197 A new cathedral is consecrated.

13th century Bishop William de Bondington (12331258), above, is responsible for adding the choir and the lower church. 1316 Bishop Robert Wishart dies and is buried in the lower church, where his stone effigy can still be seen. He was known as the fighting bishop because of his support for Robert the Bruce.

DUN DEAGH, SON OF GROUCHO

Early 14th century The nave is extended and completed. 15th century The Blackadder Aisle, the last part of the cathedral to be built, is completed. The Donald Dewar statue in Glasgow

1689 Bishops are abolished by the established Church in Scotland.

10 December 1502 James IV, above, ratifies the treaty of Perpetual Peace with England at the cathedral’s high altar. It agrees to end the intermittent war between Scotland and England waged over the previous 200 years. 1579 A warrant is issued for the cathedral’s destruction following the Protestant Reformation, during the reign of James VI, below. However, Glasgow townsfolk fight to preserve the cathedral, threatening to kill anyone who tries to destroy the building.

27 February 1583 The town council agrees to take responsibility for repairing the cathedral, while recording they have no obligation to do so. 1596 A congregation known as the Barony uses the lower church as its kirk. 1647 A wall is put across the nave to allow its western portion to be used for worship by another congregation, which is known as the Outer High.

1801 The lower church is no longer used for worship - soil is brought in to a depth of about five feet and it becomes the burial place for members of the Barony Congregation. The visible parts of the pillars are coloured black with white “tears”, and the graves are enclosed by railings four feet high, with two narrow passages for access. Mid 19th century The lower church is cleared of soil. 1835 The cathedral is used as a single church again amid a growing appreciation of the qualities of medieval architecture. 1897 The original “Father” Willis organ is built.

Admiring the interior of Glasgow Cathedral with her mother, Kathleen Nutt, and Historic Scotland cultural resources adviser Adrian Cox

1958 The stained glass west window, the Creation, by artist Francis Spear, is installed. 18 October 2000 First Minister Donald Dewar’s funeral is held at the cathedral. 22 June 2008 Female church elders are ordained in the cathedral for the first time. 4 August 2014 The Duke of Rothesay (pictured above) joins heads of state at a commemoration ceremony held at Glasgow Cathedral marking the centenary of the outbreak of the First World War.

EXPLORE GLASGOW CATHEDRAL Cathedral Square, Glasgow. Mon-Sat 9.30am-4.30pm; Sun 1-4.30pm CROOKSTON CASTLE Off Brockburn Road, Glasgow. Mon-Wed, Sat/Sun 9.30am-4pm. Closed Thu/Fri BOTHWELL CASTLE Castle Avenue, Uddingston. Mon-Wed, Sat/Sun 9.30am-4.30pm. Closed Thu/Fri

the menacing gargoyles sitting on the edge of the building’s lower roof and explore the graveyard containing signs of past hardships. It seems surprising there is no memorial to the Reformation martyrs Jeremiah Russel, a Grey Friar, and John Kennedy, an 18 year old from Ayr, both burnt at the stake in the east churchyard in the 16th century. As I walk around I can’t help but think of the terrible suffering they must have endured. Also on a sad note are the gravestones from centuries past, inscribed with the names of newborn babies and infants who died in their first weeks. The stones suggest some families endured such experiences several times. CROOKSTON CASTLE he next stop on our tour is Crookston Castle on the south side of Glasgow. It sits high on a hill overlooking the River Levern, surrounded by a well-preserved defensive ditch dating back to the 12th century, when Sir Robert de Croc had the original timber castle built on the site. The castle and surrounding land were bought by Sir Alan Stewart in 1330, and passed to Sir John Stewart of Darnley in

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 29

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OUT AND ABOUT GL ASGOW

Crookston Castle sits on a hill overlooking the River Levern, and Genevieve on the stairs of the stronghold

1361. The Darnley Stewarts replaced the early castle with the present stone structure in around 1400. We are surprised how much remains of the impressive building, particularly the imposing four-storey north-east tower, and spend a good half-hour climbing three steep ladders to reach the top, admiring the view from the tower’s roof, and trying to spot our flat and the homes of Genevieve’s school friends a few miles away. Another highlight for Genevieve is seeing the lord’s bed chamber and imagining him tucked up beside a roaring fire lit in the large fireplace which still dominates the room. BOTHWELL CASTLE he following weekend we are off to the mighty Bothwell Castle in Lanarkshire. The castle’s grim pit prison – a hole in the ground about 20ft deep into which prisoners were dropped and possibly left to die – has a terrible fascination for both of us. It is clear this castle was a place where battles raged, soldiers and common people perished and no mercy was shown to anyone who incurred the lord’s wrath. The castle dates back to the 13th century and stands on a rocky outcrop overlooking the River Clyde. It is built on an ideal site to spot any advancing enemy troops, and throughout the building are signs of the violent times of the medieval period. The oldest part, the circular donjon (keep), was

JONATHAN EDWARDS

the best protected. It was surrounded by a moat, could be accessed only over a drawbridge and its 15ft-thick walls were built to endure the most determined attack. A secret escape route led from the lord’s bedchamber, along the parapet of the prison tower and down a staircase to the castle’s back door or postern. Such an impenetrable structure was difficult to undermine physically and so armies used sieges to overcome the castle by waiting until those inside ran out of food and water. As Adrian explains to us, this was the tactic used most effectively when the castle came under a number of attacks during the Wars of Independence against England (from 1296 to 1357). The most famous was by Edward I in 1301, when the siege at the hands of 6,800 soldiers lasted a month before the castle was captured and fell to the English. The castle was returned to Scotland after King Robert the Bruce’s victory at the Battle of Bannockburn in June 1314. A new era began in the castle’s history during the 1360s when through marriage the Douglas family took it over, restoring parts that had fallen into disrepair and adding to the original.

The castle’s grim pit prison has a terrible fascination for us both

Bothwell Castle, former stronghold of the Douglases, and, inset, a detail from the fortification

During the following decades the family went from strength to strength, but in 1440 William, the 6th Earl of Douglas, and his brother David met their demise in a notorious episode known as the Black Dinner. Fearing the Douglas family was becoming too powerful, advisers to King James II of Scotland, then aged just 10, invited the teenage brothers to dinner at Edinburgh Castle. The boys accepted. After the dinner, they were beheaded, according to legend, despite the protestations of the young king who had enjoyed their company. Pondering such dark tales before heading home we walk around the castle’s perimeter, taking a while to admire the Douglas coat of arms still visible over the back gate. And as we leave Bothwell Castle we promise our journey to explore Glasgow’s medieval history is not yet over. To discover more about the Black Dinner, see page 38. WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 31

THREADS OF HISTORY

As Stirling Castle prepares to host the Great Tapestry of Scotland, historian ALLAN BURNETT traces the evolution of an intricate artform loved by kings

32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

HISTORY

Besides depicting moments in history, the Great Tapestry shows Historic Scotland sites including Stirling Castle (opposite page), Dumbarton Rock (left) and Ring of Brodgar (right)

s the writer Alexander McCall Smith was dreaming up the idea of a tapestry chronicling Scotland’s history, he had little notion of what he was about to unleash. Only when he saw the Great Tapestry of Scotland exhibited at the Scottish parliament - and watched queues of visitors mesmerised by the 143m-long artwork – did he realise the effect it could have. Now, as preparations are made to move the tapestry to Stirling Castle for a temporary exhibition from 31 January, the writer explains how apt the artwork’s new setting is. “We had no idea of the impact the

tapestry would have,” says the author of the No 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency novels who is also the co-chairman of the Great Tapestry of Scotland. “So many people have been so, so entranced by it. It’s very appropriate it should be shown in Stirling.” It becomes obvious how appropriate Stirling Castle is the moment you visit the stronghold. With its imposing position and impressive architecture, it is an aweinspiring backdrop for the artwork that continues to captivate audiences on its journey around Scotland. The tapestry will be exhibited in the castle’s Great Hall – the largest banqueting hall ever built in Scotland. Among 160 panels woven by more than 1,000 volunteers using 300 miles of wool will be some emotive

Historic Scotland locations. Bannockburn 1314 depicts the Scots’ victory over the English – look closely and you’ll find Stirling Castle perched above the battle. TAPESTRY AT STIRLING CASTLE he Great Tapestry of Scotland is far from the first such artwork to grace the castle’s impressive rooms. Its greatest resident tapestry collector was James V. Inventories from the time indicate that he had as many as 200 tapestries depicting stories from ancient mythology and bible retellings to hunting tales. Among his collection was The Great Unicorn, later identified as a version of The Hunt of the Unicorn – a specially

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 33

commissioned replica known as the Stirling Tapestries now hangs in the Queen’s inner chamber in James V’s palace. Partly a secular allegory about love, partly a representation of the Passion of the Christ, it shows the mythical creature being slain – having submitted to the charms of a virgin. The unicorn is then seized by huntsmen and dogs, and brought back to life in captivity. FABRICS FIT FOR A KING he popularity of these intricate artworks among 16th century royals was inspired by more than their beauty. As any Renaissance courtier would tell you, tapestries are great draught excluders, an important practical consideration in a royal residence as exposed to blustery winds as Stirling Castle. But these fascinating fabrics do more than just warm the body – they warm the spirit. When the palace was built,

34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

These luxuries were designed to project royal political power satisfying the ambitions of James V, tapestries insulated as well as impressed. They rendered fire-lit chambers colourful, soft and enchanting as a mini ice age turned the world outside grey, hard and cruel. In the mid-1500s – an age of extremes in politics as well as climate – the indulgent royal Renaissance court behind Stirling Castle was about to be shaken by the uncompromising Protestant Reformation. James V’s extensive collection came from many sources – some inherited, some bought and others gifts. These beautiful hand-woven luxuries, manufactured using materials ranging from blue woad dye to gold thread, were designed to keep out the cold and to

project royal power and cultural sophistication to Renaissance courtiers and foreign dignitaries. Lesser mortals were not invited to admire the tapestries or comment on the stories they depicted. Although the intended audience was exclusive, the ‘‘tapestry men’’ – artisans whose job it was to roll up and remove, then repair and rehang the tapestries at the royal court – would have had some interesting thoughts about the messages imparted. One such man was George Steill, who James V sent to Flanders on a tapestry shopping spree. Steill brought a French weaver back to Scotland to create yet more luxury wall hangings. ARTFORM’S BRUTAL SOURCE he shadow that looms largest over the tapestries at Stirling is not that of James V, whose demand for new apartments fit for an ambitious king and queen following his marriage to the Frenchwoman Mary of Guise in

HISTORY

LEFT: Stirling Castle was a favoured residence of Renaissance royalty RIGHT: The Stirling Tapestries are stunning replicas

THE STIRLING TAPESTRIES

1538, triggered construction of the palace. Rather, it is the man who mostly built Stirling for him - Sir James Hamilton of Finnart, a talented architect and designer well acquainted with continental fashions. An archetypal Renaissance man, Hamilton was the bastard son of an earl with 10 illegitimate children and eager to exercise his family’s claim to the throne should the royal line fail. A few years after leading a street fight against a rival gang of nobles that left corpses strewn around Edinburgh’s High Street, he slaughtered another earl in a gruesome encore. Hamilton’s brutal way was perhaps acutely felt by the French masons, carpenters and decorators at Stirling when he managed the palace’s construction, having proved himself on the renovation of Linlithgow Palace and other royal residences. If that were not enough to keep the builders on their toes, James V is said to have imported a lion

These stunning works are replicas, based on a set of medieval tapestries held by the Metropolitan Museum of New York. The originals were most likely created in Brussels during 1495-1505. In an ambitious project begun in 2001 and culminating this December, a series of seven tapestries telling the story of the unicorn have been hand-woven in a purpose-built

studio at Stirling Castle and the West Dean tapestry studio in West Sussex (see below). Besides being showstoppers, the tapestries were commissioned to cover the bare stone walls of Stirling Castle, with furnishings and decor resembling those of its Renaissance heyday. They are woven from wool, silk, silver and gilt welts.

from France, leading the palace courtyard to be known as the Lion’s Den. Whether his commands were echoed by a roaring lion or not, Hamilton was promoted to ‘‘master of all works’’ and rewarded with lands, riches and honours. Unsurprisingly, many of Scotland’s puritanical reformers saw the nakedly careerist Hamilton as personifying the evils and excesses of the Renaissance court. Hamilton even helped ensure his own cousin, Patrick Hamilton, was burned at the stake in St Andrews for his Protestantism. The downfall of James Hamilton himself came in 1540 when he was executed on trumped-up charges of treason. Why the king turned on such a capable favourite is debatable, but Hamilton’s considerable wealth could have made him a target. James V lived for another two years, by which time Stirling Castle may have been all but complete. The royal palaces and their tapestries were then enjoyed and augmented by Mary of Guise, who bequeathed the collection to the couple’s daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots. Several of the artworks were consumed by an explosion during the assassination in Edinburgh of her feckless second husband, Lord Darnley, in 1567. WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 35

HISTORY

Andrew Crummy designed the modern tapestry at Stirling

LEFT: Andrew Crummy at work on the Great Tapestry ABOVE: Dorie Wilkie and Alexander McCall Smith

The final unravelling of Scotland’s royal tapestries occurred when James VI, the son of Mary and Darnley, eagerly flitted to England in 1603 to begin his rule as James I. As Scottish court life disintegrated, much of the inventory of the kingdom’s palaces was destroyed, sold or spirited away. It was, quite literally, curtains for the original tapestry collection as several were recut and repurposed while some were lost. There was some consolation in later years, however, when tapestry acquisition formed part of the rehabilitation of the sole surviving official Scottish royal residence at Holyroodhouse. A MODERN MARVEL ow, the spellbinding replicas at Stirling are joined by the Great Tapestry – in which Renaissance royals appear alongside hunter gatherers, herring girls and household items such as ironing boards. The elevation of common folk and everyday things to a status once enjoyed by the elite and their most treasured symbols is perhaps the most distinguishing feature of the

36 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

21st-century tapestry. Underpinning that shift in emphasis is the Great Tapestry’s realistic, secular and freewheeling narrative of national history, far removed from that of Renaissance Scotland’s 200 or so longlost tapestries with their classical mythology, Christian parables and Renaissance motifs. Out go virginal maidens, the pious and haughty Judgement of King Solomon and the hordes of classical Greece. In come the middle-aged Dr Elsie Inglis and her Scottish Women’s Military Hospitals of the First World War, a sober depiction of the rise and fall of the church, and the striking coal miners of 1984 with their picket-line soup kitchens. Just as the themes and concerns of the modern Great Tapestry are wonderfully democratic, so too was its creation. The instigator of this enterprise is Alexander McCall Smith, while the acclaimed historian Alistair Moffat guided the hands of his fellow masters of works with his lively tapestry text. The artist Andrew Crummy’s thrifty and cerebral designs for the modern tapestry contrast the Renaissance tapestries’ profusion of flesh and vegetation, prompting the novelist to describe his work

The Great Tapestry of Scotland is at Stirling Castle from 31 January-8 March. Visit www.scotlandstapestry.com

ALEX HEWITT

The replicas and the Great Tapestry are determinedly inclusive

as “a masterpiece”. The charismatic stitcher-in-chief Dorie Wilkie guided, inspired and motivated the teams of volunteers towards completion. The methods of manufacture used in the Great Tapestry are, in certain respects, as old as the hills. Although strictly speaking not a tapestry, rather a piece of narrative embroidery, the same is true of the celebrated medieval Bayeux Tapestry, another source of inspiration. Yet there are modern innovations too, including email, word processors, light boxes and composite fabrics. The result is an artwork with a traditional form, radically refurbished for another age. While the differences between the old and new tapestries are clear, the fact all can come to see them at Stirling Castle unites them. The original tapestries were exclusive, but the unicorn replicas and the Great Tapestry of Scotland are determinedly inclusive. Just as Historic Scotland’s refurbishment of the castle and its adornments were paid for by the people, for the people, the itinerant Great Tapestry is a gift to the entire nation – and to any citizen of the world who views it. If the old and new tapestries reflect the contrasting societies that created them, they also show – climate change or not – Scotland in winter is as dreich and windy as ever. A day spent indoors with beautiful draught excluders is as compelling now as it was then.

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THE GREAT TAPESTRY OF SCOTLAND by Alistair Moffat

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C U LT U R E

In the dark recesses of Edinburgh Castle, the acclaimed writer Rona Munro discovers the real-life backdrop to The James Plays The Historic Scotland principal researcher PETER YEOMAN describes a chilling journey into the past

tanding in the gloomy and stark remains of the king’s hall in David’s Tower at Edinburgh Castle, the playwright Rona Munro gasps, ‘‘So this is where the Black Dinner really happened.’’ Anyone aware of the chilling events played out here can feel the ice creeping into their veins. Rona is visibly struck by her surroundings. Within these walls, in 1440, 10-year-old James II witnessed the murder of his former childhood friend, the 16-year-old Earl of Douglas, after an evening meal. The murderers were the grasping noble advisers to the boy king. The playwright has for the last three years been immersed in the lives of the first three 15th-century Stewart kings, all named James. Her trilogy of works, known collectively as The James Plays, premiered to critical acclaim at this year's Edinburgh International Festival before transferring to the National Theatre in London. The plays – whose cast included Sofie Gråbøl, star of the television show The Killing – breathed life into the three monarchs’ turbulent reigns. Today, Rona is discovering some dark places in the rooms and corridors of Edinburgh Castle stalked by her characters. Later, she admits to feeling ‘‘ridiculously overexcited’’ to be treading

38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

parts of the castle inaccessible to the public but crucial as settings for historic events. ‘‘It was an enormous privilege. There is something about staring at a piece of stonework and knowing for a fact the characters you are trying to imagine will have walked on the same floor and passed under the same walls – that is incredibly evocative. It might not bring their ghosts closer but it certainly reinforces a potent sense of their reality.’’ Making the past more alive is exactly what Historic Scotland aims to do, often against a challenging backdrop where many original spaces have been ruined or lost. Fortunately, much remains and Rona is captivated when we enter the vaults of the medieval Gunhouse. There, I conjure up a vivid image of James II overseeing the construction of his beloved cannons – the very weapons that were to be his undoing. While writing The James Plays, Rona’s imagination was unconstrained as she recreated the personalities and experiences of the three monarchs. She describes how exploring Edinburgh Castle at such close range, hearing of the lives and historic events played out here, strengthens her resolve to reinvigorate history for her audience. ‘‘Seeing the traces of the castle so familiar to my characters renewed my sense of

THE GRISLY DEATHS OF THE JAMES KINGS The 15th-century James kings each met their demise in unusual circumstances

GAME SET SPLASH James I (1406-37) met a sticky end when nobles who saw him as a tyrant king rose up against him. He was surprised while playing chess with courtiers at the Blackfriars, Perth. He fled into a sewer whose outflow had been blocked to stop the loss of royal tennis balls, where he was found and stabbed to death.

OUT WITH A BANG James II (1437-60) harboured a passion for artillery that was the death of him â&#x20AC;&#x201C; during the siege of Roxburgh Castle in 1460 he intended to fire a salute to his queen when the gun exploded.

Rona Munro explores the dark corridors of Edinburgh Castle

A FAMILY FEUD James III (1460-88) died following the Battle of Sauchieburn in 1488 and was buried at the nearby royal monastery of Cambuskenneth. His son and heir, James IV, fought against him and was tormented by guilt for his part in the rebellion.

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 39

C U LT U R E

responsibility to the history,’’ she says. ‘‘These were real people and they may not have been as I imagine them, but Scotland today is partly shaped by their actions. It reinforced my strong desire to make their lives visible to a modern audience.’’ The James Plays are a reminder of medieval power play, bringing to life the motivations and machinations involved in crucial historic events. The intertwining of reality and dramatic narrative, underpinned by Rona’s expert understanding of the period, achieves something truly magical. My own fascination with Scotland’s medieval past has inspired me to get under the skin of those who went before us, understanding how their acts have shaped the present. No amount of archaeological or documentary study, though, can produce such intimacy with historical characters as The James Plays' fully-fleshed, imagined reality. Rona and I certainly get a strong sense of the royal Stewarts sitting on the garderobe in David’s Tower, where our three kings undoubtedly spent time. As purists, should we worry that some of the action might be historically inaccurate? Arguably, by dramatising real-life events, audiences understand better how these kings thought as they responded to the seemingly insurmountable problems of the day. The plays raise some challenging issues about the intellectual life of the Scottish court, reminding us that The Kingis Quair, a major Romance poem, was written by James I, and that the work of government stopped on about 50 holy days annually. In the second play the royal court plays football on Holy Innocents’ Day, a festival devoted to fun; yet its title, James II: Day of the Innocents, alludes to dark deeds.

ona’s insightful scripts show that these monarchs did not have their troubles to seek. They ascended the throne too young, or in the case of James I, a stranger in his own land, having been an imprisoned vassal of the English kings. These three Stewart kings were ruthless and acquisitive in asserting themselves as supreme rulers chosen by God. While James II learned from his mistakes, the others carried on regardless.

40 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Peter Yeoman shows Rona Munro parts of the castle that are inaccessible to the public

RONA MUNRO: THE STORY SO FAR Award-winning playwright Rona Munro, originally from Aberdeen, studied history at the University of Edinburgh and has always been fond of 15th-century Scottish history. The James Plays were the first time she

made it the subject of her work. Bold Girls (1990), exploring the lives of three women in Belfast during the Troubles, and the psychological drama Iron (2002), are among her most highly regarded works in a career

spanning more than 30 years and including films such as Ladybird, Ladybird and Oranges and Sunshine. Doctor Who fans may be more impressed that she wrote the final three episodes of the

original run of the show in 1989. The National Theatre of Scotland performed The James Plays at this year’s Edinburgh Festival, before taking the show to the Olivier Theatre, London, for a sixweek run.

THE AMBITIOUS TASTES OF THE JAMES KINGS

The plays are colourful tales of love, war, family, loyalty and the extremes of emotion The young monarchs struggled with unruly, rich and ambitious noble families with often strong claims to the crown. The frequently empty royal coffers led these kings to introduce unpopular taxes. To make matters worse, the kings were in conflict with the traditionally independent clans in the Highlands and Isles, who recoiled from Stewart rule. All was not lost, though. Each of The James Plays showcases the fundamental roles of the strong, pious and cultured foreign princesses these kings married, if not for love, certainly for dowries and international prestige. The most impressive in Rona’s plays is Queen Margaret, James III’s Danish consort. Gråbøl won over audiences and critics as Margaret in the actress’s first Englishspeaking stage performance.

hese plays are not, says Rona, dry history lessons, rather colourful tales of ‘‘love, war, family, loyalty and the extremes of human emotion’’. She adds: ‘‘They serve as a warning – we are no better, no more intelligent than them. If we don’t understand our past then we may repeat it.’’ Yet it would be a mistake to judge their actions from a modern perspective.

A brutal murder to contemporary audiences could be justifiable to medieval kings duty-bound to destroy their enemies. Of course, these were bloody times. My 17-year-old son sat transfixed through the second play, featuring the spilling of much Douglas blood. The dialogue shows how a conversation with an angry king could lead to an argument, ending in terrible violence between hot-blooded men carrying daggers. Following the co-production of The James Plays by the National Theatres of Scotland and Great Britain, Rona hopes the trilogy will tour Scottish venues. Might the playwright produce more historical work? Rona plans to return to history in future, but has commissions for the National Theatre of Scotland and Birmingham Rep to tackle first. ‘‘Scottish history is an absolute treasure trove,’’ she says. ‘‘My next theatrical project is something more contemporary but I have no doubt I’ll return to history – and Scottish medieval history – for inspiration.’’ The history plays genre is inevitably reminiscent of Shakespeare and his vital role in keeping alive the memory of England’s medieval rulers. Rona may well have done this for Scottish national identity.

LEFT: Sophie Gråbøl as Queen Margaret and Jamie Sives as James III in The James Plays by Rona Munro RIGHT: Andrew Rothney as the crowned James II and Mark Rowley as William Douglas

The three kings all relished the majesty, antiquity and permanence of their rocky roost at Edinburgh. They were also fans of property development. James I invested in further buildings around David’s Tower to improve the royal accommodation, also ordering additional towers – now lost – to be built or repaired. James II carried out little palatial building, but had improvements made at Holyrood, Falkland, Linlithgow and Stirling. James III engineered the creation of the vaults around the Palace Yards at Edinburgh and Stirling castles. These were the foundations upon which James IV built his Great Halls.

ABOUT THE WRITER Peter Yeoman is a principal researcher for Historic Scotland. He wrote the recently published edition of the Edinburgh Castle Official Souvenir Guide. See page 7.

Impression of Edinburgh Castle in the 1400s WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 41

FIVE WINTER CRACKERS

Whether it’s a bracing walk in glorious scenery or a warm, peat-fuelled welcome you’re after, Historic Scotland has the answer to the perfect day out, discovers FIONA MCKINLAY

42 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

W I N T E R D AY S O U T

The ruined Linlithgow Palace still inspires a sense of awe

LINLITHGOW PALACE A royal visit The town of Linlithgow ignites the imagination – and stretches the legs – whatever the season. Its palace, a common calling point for royals travelling between Edinburgh and Stirling, sits proudly over a loch and is famous as the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots. Falling into disrepair in the 17th century, the palace was ravaged by fire in 1746 and is now kept in good condition, apart from its missing roof. The main courtyard is home to an impressive fountain, built around 1538, with carvings of a farmer, mermaid, puppy, lion and unicorns. From the original entrance, the view is across Linlithgow Peel, where jousting events take place, and to the east of the loch. Many original details can be seen in the palace and Queen Margaret’s Bower offers an incredible vista. St Michael’s Parish Church, beside the palace, is easier to spot from a distance with its 1960s aluminium crown steeple. In winter, it is open in the morning for meditation. The church’s 750th anniversary was marked in 1992 with the installation of a stained glass window in St Katherine’s Aisle. The Crear McCartney design is worth seeing too. It’s easy to make a day of

›

Linlithgow Palace overlooks a scenic loch. A unicorn adorns its courtyard fountain (right)

Linlithgow, even in winter. After exploring the palace, head to one of the High Street’s cafes for a hot drink. For the hardy, a 2.3-mile walk round the loch makes a great excursion and is a chance to spot an array of waterfowl. Swans are the star attraction, but mallards, coots and moorhens are common too. Linlithgow’s coat of arms features a dog, commonly known as the black bitch, tied to a tree. Legend has it the dog’s master was sentenced to starve to death on an island in the middle of the loch. The dog swam out every day with food, until she was caught and tied to a tree on a different island. Annet House Museum on the High Street gives a potted history of the town, while the Union Canal, which runs through Linlithgow, makes for a pleasant walk. The railway station makes a good starting point – head left from the main entrance, under the railway. Depending on your pace and how many mugs of hot chocolate you stop for, you might manage to race around Linlithgow in a day. There’s a good chance, though, that you’ll want to schedule a follow-up trip to explore further. TO FIND OUT MORE Open daily, 9.30am-4.30pm. Visit www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/linlithgow-palace

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 43

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W I N T E R D AY S O U T

HEATING THROUGH TIME

The Blackhouse, on Lewis, provides a unique insight into Western Isles life

Many of us heat our homes with a central heating system. How did people keep warm in the past? Fireplaces were common, but heating big castles by this method was tricky.

COPPER WARMING PAN This ancestor of the modern rubber hot water bottle, thought to have originated in the mid-16th century, looked like a frying pan with a lid. It would have been filled with hot coals and placed into bed.

TAPESTRIES Insulation in the past was more primitive than today’s wall cavity fillings and triple glazed windows. For centuries, the elite hung tapestries on walls for more than decoration. See page 32. FUR CLOTHING Wearing animal hides for fashion or function has been a human habit for thousands of years, particularly because of their warmth. In the 1950s, anti-fur campaigns began to take effect.

THE BLACKHOUSE, ARNOL Humble home The Blackhouse at Arnol on Lewis captures a moment in time. The traditional, thatched Hebridean croft house has a peat fire at its centre and was home to a family and their animals until 1966. Today it is the only Hebridean blackhouse left, telling of a vanished way of life. Visit the village of Arnol, with its population of around 100, and look for the abandoned shells of other blackhouses tucked between modern residences. The blackhouse and its neighbouring whitehouse and blackhouse museum is one of three Historic Scotland properties on Lewis. The others – Calanais Standing Stones and Dun Carloway Broch – can be taken in along with Arnol as part of a 45-mile circular route, starting and ending in Stornoway.

The croft house with a peat fire at its centre housed a family and animals

›

Ferries from Ullapool to Stornaway operate on a fairly limited timetable, so make sure that you plan ahead and it might be a good idea to consider an overnight stay. Always keep an eye on the weather forecast and check that the ferries are running before you set out on your adventure. The journey will be worth it.

The blackhouse and its thatched roof

TO FIND OUT MORE Open Mon/Tue; Thu-Sat, 9.30am-4.30pm. Visit www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/blackhouse

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 45

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W I N T E R D AY S O U T

DALLAS DHU DISTILLERY A wee dram Ever wondered how whisky is made? Sample this educational, firmly indoor, experience this winter. The old Dallas Dhu distillery began production in 1899 as Dallasmore, bowing out in 1983 because of fierce competition and an unreliable water supply. A tour of the distillery will teach you how the tipple was made here and shows you the equipment used in the distilling process until the last

›

barrel was filled. The large wash still and spirit still are particularly impressive. If you are of legal drinking age you can also sample a free dram – something to warm the cockles on a frosty day. The distillery is a few miles from Forres, and there is plenty to see and do in the surrounding area. If whisky is your passion, complement your visit to Dallas Dhu with a trip to a working distillery like nearby Benromach. Dallas Dhu distillery lies in Scotland’s well-known Speyside distilling region

TO FIND OUT MORE Open Mon-Wed, Sat/Sun, 9.30am-4.30pm. Visit www. historic-scotland.gov.uk/dallasdhu

15th-century Castle Campbell is dramatically situated above Dollar Glen

CASTLE CAMPBELL AND GARDEN Stunning scenery Set above the idyllic Dollar Glen, Castle Campbell was the lowland stronghold of the powerful Campbell earls of Argyll. Its terraced gardens offer views

›

that stretch for miles. The castle’s original moniker of Glume was altered around 1490 after Colin Campbell, the 1st Earl of Argyll, acquired the property through marriage and petitioned for the name to be changed. If you like peace and tranquillity, you’re likely to

find it in the glen. Put on some sturdy footwear and discover the walking trail to become one with nature. Take care on wet days, as some paths can be eroded by bad weather. It may be trickier to spot the glen’s wildlife in winter, but it is all the more rewarding when you do. Its luscious

waterfalls flow year round, offering an opportunity for keen photographers to play with slow shutter speeds and get some cracking shots. TO FIND OUT MORE Open Mon-Wed, Sat/Sun, 9.30am-4.30pm. Visit www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/castle-campbell

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 47

BEST OF THE REST ! OTHER GREAT DAYS OUT IN WINTER

STIRLING CASTLE Visit the Clan and Christmas shop or enjoy a Christmas lunch in the Green Room

Duff House was designed by architect William Adam

DUFF HOUSE Art warming If you prefer cosy to wet ’n’ wild, Duff House is a welcoming destination. Leave your hat, scarf and gloves in the car, as the Georgian country mansion has a roof, windows, central heating all the mod cons. Designed by the Scottish architect William Adam in the 18th century, Duff House was carefully restored in the 1990s following detailed research by Historic Scotland. On display are stunning pieces from Scotland’s national collection of fine art including works by El Greco, Gainsborough and Raeburn. The National Galleries of Scotland also display a different masterpiece in the house every spring. An exhibition of work by Ruth Nicol will run until 2 January. The pieces, inspired by the Alexander Moffat painting Poets’ Pub, explore the landscapes of renowned Scottish poets such as Hugh

EDINBURGH CASTLE Head to the Castle for a Christmas lunch and enticing wine and dine events

›

48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

RING OF BRODGAR Guided walks are available here year round and the rangers know their stuff

IONA ABBEY A stunning centrepiece on an island worth exploring at any time of year A splendid period table dominates the impressive dining room at Duff House

MacDiarmid, Edwin Morgan, Norman MacCaig, Sorley MacLean, George Mackay Brown, and Robert Garioch. Santa will be found in Duff House at weekends from 6-14 December. Check the events section on page 50 for more information. The tearoom offers a truly scrumptious

Traditional Afternoon Tea for £9.95 per person, and the little cakes are divine. TO FIND OUT MORE Open Thu-Sun, 11am-4pm. Visit www.duffhouse.org.uk All Historic Scotland properties close on Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Please check for New Year opening.

DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE An impressive fortification among stunning coastal scenery, great for a walk

EXTRA 2 MONTHS FOR FREE

CHRISTMAS MEMBERSHIP GIFT OFFER Buy a Christmas gift of membership online and get two months extra free – 14 MONTHS FOR THE PRICE OF 12

or a Christmas gift with a difference, buy your loved one a year’s membership to Historic Scotland. And if you pay for the membership online using a credit or debit card, your gift will include an extra two months’ membership for free. What’s more, as a member you

will receive a 20 per cent discount. To get your 20 per cent discount and two months extra free, make sure you are registered and logged in to the members’ website at www.historic-scotland. gov.uk/member For more information call 0131 668 8999.

Terms and conditions apply. See website for details. Offer valid for gift memberships purchased between 1 October and 31 December 2014. Please note, last UK posting date is Monday 15 December 2014. Orders placed prior to this will be processed and posted out in time for Christmas, but we cannot guarantee delivery.

FIVE REASONS WHY HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERSHIP MAKES THE PERFECT GIFT

A personal copy of Historic Scotland direct to the gift recipient’s door every quarter, packed with news and features.

5 top days out

INSIDE

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC

2014 SCOTLAND MEMBERS WINTER

Take a journey into

Medieval Glasgow ALEXANDER MCCALL SMITH ON THE GREAT TAPESTRY OF SCOTLAND

JamestruthII WWW.HISTO

The grisly behind the ner

We’ll send you, or the recipient, a special gift pack complete with your own personal message.

GREAT EVENTS

WINTER 2014

Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top heritage attractions, including Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle and Urquhart Castle.

ore: Walk, eat, drink, expl

It’s not just Scotland – half-price entry into 500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the Isle of Man.

Member activities, from guided tours to lunches and concerts.

EVENTS

FOR FULL DETAILS Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/events

A RANGE OF EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND

TUCK IN TO CHRISTMAS

Historic Scotland sites provide the perfect setting for seasonal merriment, offering a range of festive lunches, shopping and entertainment. With striking backdrops steeped in history, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got it all wrapped up

Make this a season to be jolly with a fine dining experience

50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

DECEMBER!FEBRUARY

Toilets

Restaurant/café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

Enjoy a traditional Christmas meal full of seasonal cheer at a Historic Scotland castle

FESTIVE FOOD

CHRISTMAS LUNCHES EDINBURGH CASTLE

the specially selected wine that accompanies each delicious course.

Fri 5, Sat 6, Thu 11-Sun 14, Wed 17-Wed 24 Dec, 12.30-2pm CHRISTMAS £30 members, £36 nonLUNCHES members, £18 child STIRLING CASTLE members, £22 child Tue 16-Wed 24 non-members TREATS Dec, 1-4pm 0131 668 8686 IN STORE £26 members, Set in the festive Don’t forget the Clan £31.95 nonsurrounds of the and Christmas shop at members, £17.25 Jacobite Room Stirling Castle. See page 16. child members, and boasting £19.80 child panoramic views of non-members Princes Street, the New 01786 431321 Town and beyond, indulge in a Enjoy a delicious three-course truly memorable experience. Christmas meal with family, Enjoy traditional turkey, Loch friends or colleagues. This year, Duart salmon or polenta and diners will receive a royal upgrade butternut squash. with a move to the castle’s Green CHRISTMAS WINE Room, nestled under the Great AND DINE Hall. The room is not open to EDINBURGH CASTLE daytime visitors. Sun 14 Dec, 12.30pm £58 members, £65 non-members 0131 668 8686 Sample the best of Scottish cuisine with Historic Scotland at its special Christmas Wine and Dine lunch in the prestigious Queen Anne Room at Edinburgh Castle. Let our chef introduce each dish Berry good: an indulgent festive pudding and the sommelier will describe

Go to www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member and log in to book hs.functions@scotland.gsi.gov.uk WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 51

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING FAYRE STIRLING CASTLE

Tue 2 Dec, 6-9pm 01786 450000 Ticketed event £5, including parking Back by popular demand, this event will take the stress out of holiday shopping. It will showcase well-known Scottish brands alongside arts, crafts, fine food and drink from the Stirling area.

MEDIEVAL MERRIMENT STIRLING CASTLE

Celebrate with Mary, Queen of Scots

CHRISTMAS EVENTS FESTIVE EVENTS SANTA’S GROTTO DUFF HOUSE

Sat 6, Sun 7, Sat 13, Sun 14 Dec, 11am-4pm 01261 818181 Ticketed event £10 per child Santa returns for more festive fun. Tickets include a gift from the North Pole for those not on the naughty list. Booking essential

TALES AND TRADITIONS OF A VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS

Come along to find out some of the Victorian origins of 52 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Step back in time and join the royal court as it celebrates the festive season. Experience the traditions of a medieval feast and enjoy music, dancing and games as the court is entertained throughout the afternoon.

CAROLS AT THE CASTLE STIRLING CASTLE

Spruced up: Edinburgh Castle is ready to give visitors a seasonal welcome

Christmas traditions. Learn how a visit to an Edinburgh graveyard inspired Charles Dickens to write A Christmas Carol.

EDINBURGH CASTLE

Sat 20-Tue 23 Dec, 11.15am, 12.15pm, 2pm, 3pm 0131 668 8885

Sun 7 Dec, 12.30pm 0131 668 8885

A VERY MARY CHRISTMAS! EDINBURGH CASTLE

Wed 24, Sat 27-Wed 31 Dec, 11.15am, 12.15pm, 2pm, 3pm 0131 668 8885

Mary, Queen of Scots will be holding an audience in the Great Hall of Edinburgh Castle. Join her to find out how a queen celebrates Christmas and learn more about the festivities of the time. To book ticketed events go to www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member, log in and click on events.

Sun 14 Dec, 7pm 01786 450000 Ticketed event £15 adults, £10 concessions, 10% member discount Our evening carol concert returns. Enjoy a mulled wine and get in the festive spirit as the Stirling contingent of the National Youth Choir of Scotland performs classic Christmas songs and modern tunes.

Toilets

Restaurant/café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

NOVEMBER

STANDING STONES OF STENNESS WALK STANDING STONES OF STENNESS

Every Wed, Nov-Mar (not 24/31 Dec), 10am 01856 841732 Join our rangers for an easy guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse. Meet at the site gate.

RUTH NICOL: THREE RIVERS MEET DUFF HOUSE

Fri 7 Nov-Fri 2 Jan, 11am 01261 818181

RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Every Thu, Nov-Mar (not 25 Dec or 1 Jan), 1pm 01856 841732 ‘Babel, Lewis, Iain Crichton Smith’ by Ruth Nicol

An easy walk around the Ring of Brodgar exploring the archaeology, wildlife and the natural environment, in and around the Brodgar area. Meet in the Brodgar car park.

WINTER WARMER WALK

On the darkest day of the year the rangers lead a walk around the Brodgar area and talk about the significance of light. The walk ends at sunset. JANUARY

HOT ROCKS

HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 23 Nov, 1pm, Fri 12 Dec, 10am, Sun 14 Dec, 10am, Sun 18 Jan, 1pm, Sun 22 Feb, 10am Must book in advance hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

Sun 11 Jan, 9am

Must book in advance hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150 In the first of two such events, join a ranger and expert geologist on a guided walk to discover the fascinating geological history of Holyrood Park. Discover fossilised lagoons, walk on lava and find out

Ruth Nicol, inspired by the Alexander Moffat painting Poets’ Pub, investigates the landscapes of the great Scottish poets Hugh MacDiarmid, Edwin Morgan, Norman MacCaig, Sorley MacLean, George Mackay Brown, Robert Garioch and Iain Crichton Smith. Moffat’s portraits of Morgan and Garioch will be exhibited alongside the vast, varied landscapes captured by Nicol in her work.

Come along on a guided walk to blow away the winter blues. Learn more about the turbulent past of Arthur’s Seat, created by fire and ice. Find out about the people who have lived and worked in the park across 7,000 years, and learn more about the rare wildlife that makes it so special. DECEMBER

MIDWINTER WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Sun 21 Dec, 2pm 01856 81732 Rock and awe: the splendid view over the Scottish capital from Holyrood Park includes Edinburgh Castle and the Forth Rail Bridge WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 53

Books for Christmas £7.50

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GOBLINSHEAD 130B INVERESK ROAD MUSSELBURGH EH21 7AY T 0131 665 2894 E goblinshead@sol.co.uk

Published titles in stock. Usually dispatched within three working days. Postage & packing is FREE to the UK only: overseas on request. Sorry, no credit, debit or charge cards (to keep book prices as low as possible).

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR

Toilets

Restaurant/café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

BURNS FOR BEGINNERS EDINBURGH CASTLE

Sat 24, Sun 25 Jan, 11.15am, 12.15pm, 2pm, 3pm 0131 668 8885

more about Edinburgh’s own James Hutton, the father of modern geology. FEBRUARY

CRIME AND PUNISHMENT IN MEDIEVAL SCOTLAND EDINBURGH CASTLE

Sat 7-Fri 13 Feb, 11.15am, 12.15pm, 2pm, 3pm 0131 668 8885

Robert Burns is one of Scotland’s literary greats, but what exactly is he talking about? Come along for a light-hearted introduction to the bard and some of his works. Crowd participation will be greatly encouraged.

Must book in advance hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150 Join our rangers and a geologist on a three-hour guided walk to discover how the landscape of Holyrood Park has been shaped and sculpted by ice through the ages.

Edinburgh Castle

STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 24,Sun 25 Jan, 12pm 01786 450 000

Meet Gilbert Savage, the executioner, equipped with heading axe, ropes, knives, and other tools of his gruesome trade. He recounts the nature of crime and punishment during the turbulent times in medieval Scotland.

In 1787 Robert Burns visited Stirling Castle after which he returned to his hotel and etched the now infamous Stirling Lines into a glass windowpane. Join our tours as we explore his visit to the castle and how it inspired his work.

COOLEST WALK ON EARTH HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 8 Feb, 9am-12pm

CELEBRATION OF BURNS

Take stock at Historic Scotland’s crime and punishment event WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 55

GUESS THE YEAR

WIN

WORK OUT THE MYSTERY YEAR AND WIN

HOW TO ENTER If you can identify the correct year from the options below, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ guesstheyear or post your answer, with your name, membership number and address, to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 16 January. See www.historicscotland.gov.uk/member for terms and conditions. WINNING PRIZE The winning entry will receive a cheese and wine hamper from Scottish Hampers (www.scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flame-roasted coffee, among other treats. Please note: the competition is only open to members aged over 18. THE SCENE Costumed interpreters presented glimpses of more than 2,000 years of Scottish history during the last Celebration of the Centuries event at Fort George. Here, we see a recreation of a 1940s dance, complete with a real swing band. Soldiers at Fort George used the beach as a training ground for the D-Day Landings in 1944.

SET IN ONE OF THE FINEST MILITARY FORTIFICATIONS IN EUROPE, HISTORIC SCOTLAND’S FLAGSHIP EVENT CELEBRATED MORE THAN 2,000 YEARS OF SCOTTISH HISTORY.

LAST ISSUE’S GUESS THE YEAR The Gunpowder Plot took place in 1605. Congratulations to Iona Griffiths from Inverness 56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

SHUTTERSTOCK

ANSWER THE FOLLOWING QUESTION Fort George was built as a defensive reaction to the Jacobite uprising that began in what year? A: 1745 B: 1755 C: 1765

THIS CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR AT THE KING’S AND FESTIVAL THEATRES EDINBURGH

Mon 10 to Sat 15 November KING’S THEATRE

Sat 13 Dec 2014 to Sat 3 Jan 2015 FESTIVAL THEATRE

Wed 4 to Sat 7 February FESTIVAL THEATRE

Thu 13, Sun 16, Wed 19, Sat 22 November FESTIVAL THEATRE

Thu 29 & Sat 31 January FESTIVAL THEATRE

Mon 23 to Sat 28 February KING’S THEATRE

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