HK Restaurant Guide 2016 by HK Magazine

Restaurant Guide 2016

DELICIOUS EATS

The Best Places to Dine in Hong Kong in 2016

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ZONE

Price Guide

Kowloon East, New Territories

ZONE

Mong Kok and around

$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Less than $200 $200-$399 $400-$599 $600-$799 $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated.

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Tsim Sha Tsui and around P. 32

ZONE P.

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Western District

Central, Mid-Levels, The Peak

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Admiralty, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay

Tai Hang, Happy Valley, Island East P.

ZONE

Southside

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Outlying Islands P.

ABOUT THE GUIDE p.04

10 BITES p.06

CHEF TALK p.09

INDEX p.80 RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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ABOUT THE GUIDE

Who’s in Charge? EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief | Luisa Tam Editor | Leslie Yeh Fact Checker | Kate Lok

Dear Reader, After chowing our way through an unprecedented number of new restaurant openings during the last 12 months, we’re proud to bring you our HK Restaurant Guide 2016, stuffed full with recommendations for where to eat, drink and live out your foodie dreams in 2016. For all you #hkfoodies and #hkfoodbloggers who spend every waking moment planning your next meal (guilty!), you have before you an indispensable food bible—a comprehensive collection of the best restaurants in town, encompassing old favorites who’ve stood the test of time and new spots that made us (and our stomachs) smile this year. All the restaurants that made it into this guide have received a star rating of three or above in an official HK Magazine review, which means you can go forth and eat knowing it’s received our verified stamp of approval. Pay attention to the special “Editor’s Picks”—places that impressed us above and beyond. We’ve made many a good food memory here, and we hope you will too.

PRODUCTION Senior Art Director | Pierre Pang Senior Graphic Designer | Kay Leung Designers | Elaine Tang, Joyce Kwok, Wing Chan Production Supervisor | Kelly Cheung

MARKETING Head of Marketing | Karrie Lam Senior Marketing Manager | Pauline Wan Marketing Manager | Janice Fung

Marketing Executive | Ricardo Ng

HK Restaurant Guide 2016 is published by

HK Magazine Media Group MY

3/F, Morning Post Centre,

22 Dai Fat St., Tai Po Industrial Estate, CMY

New Territories, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2680-8888

Until next year—happy eating!

Leslie Yeh Editor

HK Restaurant Guide 2016 is published by HK Magazine Media Group Copyright ©2016 HK Magazine Media Group. The titles “HK Magazine,” “HK Restaurant Guide 2016” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of the HK Restaurant Guide 2016 are the property of HK Magazine Media Group. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. The Guide may not be distributed without the express written consent of HK Magazine Media Group. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request.

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Around the World in

10 BITES Culinary stars flocked to Hong Kong this year from the four corners of the world, bringing with them a broad spectrum of cuisine from the fire-licked meats of Northern Spain to the vibrant, herbaceous street snacks of Vietnam. Here’s a look at the best new restaurants to join the city’s melting pot. By Leslie Yeh

Tri, Balinese Another beautifully designed restaurant from the Le Comptoir Group, Tri evokes the essence of Bali culture and cuisine, striking a balance between man and nature in the use of sustainable materials such as bamboo and antique wood, and private lotus-shaped booths that make you feel as if you’re secluded in a tropical forest. Dishes deliver on style and substance, with exotic ingredients whisking you across the South China Sea. Shop 302, 3/F, Lobby C, The Pulse, 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay, 2515-0577, tri.hk

Le Garçon Saigon, Vietnamese Boasting the fresh, vibrant flavors of Vietnam with a cheeky nod to French colonial influences, Le Garçon Saigon proved to be one of the best new additions to Hong Kong’s growing stable of Vietnamese restaurants, offering a satisfying menu of grilled meats and seafood served alongside an array of mouthwatering condiments for the ultimate DIY feast. 12-18 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2455-2499, legarconsaigon.com

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Greater China Club, Cantonese Helmed by a star-studded kitchen cast, the Greater China Club makes a lasting impression with dish upon dish of exquisite Chinese specialties, with a stunning 1920s Art Deco aesthetic. Relax in the lounge with their jazz-themed vinyl collection or head into the upscale dining room to be won over by platters of char siu, dim sum, baked abalone and seasonal vegetables. Unit A, 10/F, D2 Place, 9 Cheung Yee St., Lai Chi Kok, 2743-8055, greaterchinaclub.com

Jinjuu, Korean Celeb chef Judy Joo turned heads with the opening of her modern Korean restaurant Jinjuu, located smack in the hottest new dining destination of the year, Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower. Contemporary fusion bites are jam-packed with flavor, from Iberico pork belly bibimbap to bulgogi beef tacos and signature Korean fried chicken paired with Jinjuu black soy and gochujang house sauces. UG/F, California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar St., Central, 3755-4868, jinjuu.com.hk

Mak Mak, Central Thai

Bindaas, Indian Bindaas is spinning a new perspective on Indian food that has the Soho hipster foodie crowd flocking to its brassblazoned doors. With colorful geometric mirrored tiles creating a vivid backdrop and casual bar stool seating, Bindaas strikes the perfect balance between classical and cool, touting a menu filled with tasty curries, Indian street snacks and a naan plus pizza “naanza” mashup that hits a flavor high. LG/F, 33 Aberdeen St., Central, 2447-9998, iambindaas.com

Restaurateur Yenn Wong landed another success at the end of 2015 with the opening of Mak Mak, an authentic Thai restaurant celebrating the bold, vibrant flavors of central Thailand. From a gorgeous soft-shell crab yellow curry to massaman sauce layered with aromatic depths and a dedicated vegetarian menu, there’s something for everyone at this charming Landmark destination. 217A, 2/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2983-1003, makmak.hk

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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Verde Mar, Mexican Brought to us by the founders of Taco Truck, Verde Mar introduced Hong Kong to at least one new ingredient yet to be found in the city’s dining scene: cactus, flown in straight from Mexico, and chargrilled to perfection. Meaty and a tad funky, it’s one of the best items to try on this diverse menu, along with a supremely tender chargrilled whole chicken and a melting pot of Oaxaca cheese queso fundido. 24 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai, 2810-0888, verde-mar.com

Pivo Czech Bar, Czech Republic A new after-work watering hole for Elements’ busy worker bees, Pivo Czech Bar brought us the hearty pork- and sauerkraut-filled cuisine of the Czech Republic, with an extra dose of hospitality to warm up any non-believers. In addition to an extensive selection of the best brews from one of the beer capitals of the world, Pivo’s menu is also worth exploring for meaty and hearty bites that warm you up from the inside out. Shop R004, Roof Level, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2196-8733.

Osteria Felice, Italian With a “happy” theme running throughout the restaurant from the name (“felice” is Italian for “happy”) to the friendly staff and the smiling photos on the wall, this is the place to go if you’re looking for that homey Italian hospitality with generous, delicious food to match. An extensive burrata section will melt any cheese lover’s heart, while fantastic homemade pastas and pizzas are worth the carb count. Shop 16-21, G/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty, 2516-6166, osteriafelice.com

The Optimist, Northern Spanish What’s not to love about giant hunks of 21-day aged steak and grilled whole fish? Conquering the city’s dining scene like a bull-fighting matador, this asador-inspired grill house immediately caught the attention of gastronauts in Hong Kong, with a mouthwatering menu of Spanish-style meats and seafood and a nostalgic cocktail menu of swizzles, punches and juleps to match. G-2/F, 239 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, 2433-3324, theoptimist.hk

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CHEF TALK

The Future of Food We asked a group of well-known names in Hong Kong’s F&B industry to give us their take on where food trends are headed in 2016.

Yenn Wong

Nicolas Boutin

Restaurateur, JIA Group

Executive Chef, Épure

Favorite food memory this year?

My husband surprised me with an amazing birthday party in Sai Ying Pun with my closest friends. It was in a construction site and they managed to cook up an amazing meal with 40 of my closest friends!

The onion dish at Passage 53 [in Paris] was unforgettable, painstakingly beautiful Japanese ingredients along with French cuisine knowledge.

2016 dining predictions: I foresee a higher demand for sustainable produce, as more diners are concerned with the source of their food and the effect that it has on the environment. I would also love to see more passionate chefs and more Southeast Asian food come to Hong Kong; there’s still a lack of great concepts from there!

2016 dining predictions: "Umai", or “delicious” in Japanese is how I would sum it up—with the freshest in-season ingredients that the chef is able to deliver onto the table.

Charles Pelletier Restaurateur & Co-Owner, Serge et le Phoque

Favorite food memory this year? A home-cooked dish by my friend, Jean-Denis Le Bras [of Pierre]. It was a truffled sole, cooked in a cassoulet, COVERED with truffle. There was more truffle than sole, and it was absolutely delicious!

2016 dining predictions:

Gianni Caprioli Executive Chef & Owner, Giando, Gia, Fishsteria and Eat.It

In Hong Kong people tend to focus more on meat and seafood. But with increased awareness of local farming and excellent imported produce, we should be getting more creative, vegetable-driven dishes.

Favorite food memory this year? The highlight of my day is always the late night, after-work supper with my kitchen team. The value in the food is that it is made with love.

Vicky Cheng

2016 dining predictions:

I had one of the best meals I’ve had in a long while in Amber, at The Landmark Mandarin. Chefs Richard Ekkebus and Maxime Gilbert are always striving, pushing their limits with new ingredients, new ideas and combinations.

I see diners in Hong Kong consuming more quality over quantity; they may be eating less or eating healthier, taking to heart the ingredients and purity behind their food— and the chef who made it.

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Executive Chef & Co-Owner, VEA

Favorite food memory this year?

2016 dining predictions: More and more local-influenced restaurants. I also foresee a lot more different types of Asian restaurants opening, with standards set by lists like Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. In terms of fine dining, I hope that we will see more development in the area of cocktails integrated with food for an overall dining experience.

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ZONE A Central, Mid-Levels, The Peak

Aberdeen Street Social

CENTRAL

ABERDEEN STREET SOCIAL

BÊP VIETNAMESE KITCHEN

British G/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central 2537-8859 Daily 11:30am-11pm $$$$

Vietnamese LG/F, 9-11 Staunton St., Central 2522-7533 Daily noon-11pm $$

121BC

Chef Jason Atherton and restaurateur Yenn Wong have proven to be the perfect pair when it comes to nailing down restaurant concepts, and Ab Street Social is no exception. Modern British fare is served in a beautiful two-story space at the refurbished PMQ. While most items on the à la carte and brunch menus are solid, the desserts are out of this world. The venue is separated into three sections: a restaurant, cocktail bar and café, and each area has its own unique décor. If you can’t commit to a full-on meal, stop by for an after-work cocktail or a piece of cake in the outdoor café.

Hongkongers love Vietnamese food. So why is it that one of the most popular Asian cuisines in this city is always overpriced or under-par? Enter BÊP—a comfortable, no-fuss restaurant offering up an open kitchen, good service and excellent food. The two clear standouts of the meal were the roasted suckling pig ($198) which had juicy and tender meat underneath a thick crackling skin; and the fresh, simple and extremely flavorful soft shell crab rolls ($80).

Italian 42-44 Peel St., Central 2395-0200 Mon-Sat 5:30pm-late $$$

It’s all about home-style Italian cooking and natural, artisan wines at this trendy minimalist spot—a Sydney import—on Peel St. We were pleasantly surprised with the generous helpings from our mains. The ravioli was tender and fresh, with a nostalgic flavor not unlike homemade chicken noodle soup. The succulent steak took full honors, thanks in part to the well-balanced sides of spinach and a slightly tangy salsa verde.

8 1/2 OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA Italian Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central 2537-8859 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm $$$$$

Th is three-star Michelin restaurant by chef Umberto Bombana is the talk of the town. Chef Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing lunch and dinner menus.

AMBER

EDITOR’S

PICK French 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central 2132-0066 Daily 7-10:30am, 12-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30pm $$$$$

Chef Richard Ekkebus creates dish after dish of lipsmacking haute cuisine that keeps the diners coming back to this World’s Best Restaurants fave.

Amber

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CENTRAL, MID-LEVELS, THE PEAK

BINDAAS Indian LG/F, 33 Aberdeen St., Central 2447-9998 Daily noon-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Th is modern Indian restaurant is riding the contemporary-fusion-small-plates trend with style, and reinventing the image of Indian cuisine along the way. The sev puri ($68) was one of our favorite bites of the night—an amalgamation of Indian flavors condensed into one bite-sized flavor bomb, with chutneydressed mashed boiled potato sitting on fried puri bread, liberally sprinkled with crunchy sev chickpea noodles. The keema pao ($108) was another winner, a savory ragu of minced goat meat masala with a side of fluff y butter-grilled homemade Bombay-style buns. The fusion touches are most prominent in the “naanza” (naan + pizza) dishes. We tried the chili chicken naanza ($118), a tasty mash-up with Italian and Indian roots, plus Asian flavors from the Hoisinlike sweet glaze. Four milk-centric sweets are on offer ($78) including saff ron milk with rose syrup, and betel-flavored panna cotta.

BOCADITO Spanish 40 Staunton St., Central 2549-2878 Mon 6pm-1am; Tue-Sun noon-3pm $$$

NEW REVIEW

You can’t miss SoHo’s Bocadito, thanks to the huge mouth which forms the entrance to this tapas joint. Inside Bocadito is full of beautiful psychedelic mosaic décor, inspired by the Barcelonan architecture of Antoni Gaudí. The lenguado al pibil ($78) sole tacos came topped with almond and a large slice of grilled pineapple, giving a sweet kick to a mildly spicy dish. More sole tacos—lenguado con salsa achiote ($78)— topped with tomato, onion garlic, coriander and achiote chili sauce, were refreshing and the fish tender. We’d happily return here for a quieter SoHo happy hour and a few bites with friends.

BOOMSHACK

NEW

REVIEW American/Mexican Shop B, G/F, 8-12 Wo On Lane, Central 2660-5977 Mon-Thu noon-midnight; Fri-Sat noon-2am; Sun noon-10pm $$

Foodtruck-inspired joint Boomshack is one of the newer establishments to infi ltrate Wo On Lane. You’ll fi nd American burgers and tacos on the menu with Hong Kong-style touches like char siu and bak choi—plus a hipster crowd, natch. Boomshack’s take on classic soul-food chicken and waffles ($88) was a stand-out. The waffle— sweet and aromatic—cut into the crunch and saltiness of the chicken. The “I Am Lamb” taco ($108) is also not to be missed with saddle lamb, pickled cucumber and fennel yogurt wrapped in a tortilla.

Boomshack

BRAZA South American 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central 2851-4803 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

The appeal here is obvious: All. You. Can. Eat. Meat. Th is churrascaria is a south Brazilian steakhouse where grilled meat is served rodizio style—aka sliced from skewers, tableside—for as long as you can keep eating, for just $388 a head. Don’t use up all your stomach space on the enormous salad buffet (but do try the seared tuna) or the selection of appetizers that are quickly brought to your table (don’t miss the grilled cheese)—it’s all about the meat here with some 14 different cuts of beef, lamb, pork and chicken.

BURGER CIRCUS American 22 Hollywood Rd., Central 2878-7787 Sun-Wed 11am-11pm; Thu-Sat 11am-3am $$

NEW REVIEW

The long-established Café Siam is bright and comfortable. The menu is unmistakably Thai, the creamy tom yum goong—though tangy and spicy and savory all at once—was relatively mild on the palate and a perfect match for the fleshy butterfl ied prawns bobbing throughout. A strong candidate for LKF dining.

CAPRICE French 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central 3196-8888 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$$

French chef Fabrice Vulin has been head chef at various star-spangled establishments across the globe, including La Chèvre d’Or in southeastern France. He cooks dishes with a Mediterranean f lair, plenty of fresh seafood, and a touch of the exotic. It’s not cheap (naturally), but it’s very good.

If you’ve ever wanted to have burgers in an oldtimey circus train-like setting, this is it. Inspired by 20th century, all-American diners, Burger Circus is great for casual grub and late-night dining. Burgers here were decently sized for the price ($75-88). We ordered the Circus Burger: a solid 5oz burger with fresh veg and crispy bacon, but the watery Circus sauce failed to impress. The Magician’s Maytag Blue came with a blue cheese dressing for a much-needed kick. The Apple Pie à la mode ($88) was all-American comfort in a heft y, generously fi lled slice.

CAFÉ SIAM Thai 2-3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central 2851-4803 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm; Sun 6:30-10:30pm $$

Cafe Siam

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CENTRAL, MID-LEVELS, THE PEAK

CARBONE Italian American 9/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central 2593-2593 Mon-Thu noon-2:30pm, 6-11:30pm; Fri-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight $$$$

A New York-style Italian restaurant with mid20th century vibes, Carbone has long been serving indulgent dishes in the Big Apple. At the Hong Kong location, diners can expect the same classic New York-Italian dishes such as baked clams, linguini vongole, veal parmesan, and the infamous spicy rigatoni vodka.

hoi (street beer) culture of Vietnam. The menu is divided into different sections: small bites, rolls, salads and charcoal-grilled goods. The Vietnamese Fried Chicken wings with garlic, coriander, mint and a sprinkle of lime juice were divine, with thin and golden crispy skin, juicy meat and a refreshingly tangy aftertaste. The grilled beef in betel leaf also won us over, with meat so tender and the combo of curry, shallots, peanuts and spring onion so flavorful.

CIAK CELEBRITY CUISINE

Italian Shop 327, 3/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central 2522-8869 Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5:30pm $$$

Cantonese 1/F, Lan Kwai Fong Hotel, 3 Kau U Fong, Central 3650-0066 Daily noon-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Walk through the entrance, and you’ll see photos of local celebrities displayed in an album on a side table. Inside is an intimate space with purple walls and white-clothed tables. During lunch, dim sum is available, as is the regular à la carte menu. Our table ordered a mishmash of things and was very impressed by the quality of most of the dishes.

Ciak is a casual dining venture by Italian chef Umberto Bombana of three-Michelin-starred 8 ½ Ozzo e Mezzo. Don’t get the wrong idea though: “casual” doesn’t necessarily mean “cheap” and even if you stick to the basics, a meal for two will still cost around $700. We could taste the freshness of the pasta in our lasagnette, and the rich, meaty sauce was a beautiful balance of fragrant sausage meat, rich tomato and tiny, tasty mushrooms.

CHÔM CHÔM CIAO CHOW

Vietnamese G/F, Block A, 58 Peel St., Central 2810-0850 Wed-Sun 5pm-late; Mon-Tue 6pm-late $$$

Chôm Chôm takes its inspiration from the bia

Italian G/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar St., Central 2344-0005 Sun-Thu 11am-2am; Fri-Sat 11am-4am $$

NEW REVIEW

Th is casual ground-floor Italian eatery caters to the after-work LKF crowd, with a fully-stocked bar and satisfying pizzas and pastas. It’s a buzzing, modern space that exudes a bit more class than the string of grungy, worn-out bars running up and down D’Aguilar Street. Choose from 16 different pizzas alone and a full page dedicated to creating your own antipasto platter. We tried the pizzas on two separate occasions and while the signature burnt bits from the Neapolitan-style, blink-of-an-eye baking were overly charred on our first visit, the Tartufo pizza ($198) we ordered the second time around was just right: a pillowy, chewy crust that was not too dense but held up nicely against the umami-packed wild mushroom, cheese and truffle topping. For dessert, the panna cotta with strawberries ($68) tasted better than it looked, with a generous amount of vanilla bean speckled through the smooth panna cotta.

COCOTTE French 9 Shin Hing St., Central 2568-8857 Daily noon-late $$$

Cocotte

Cocotte is a cute NoHo eatery sitting right off the steps of Shin Hing Street. Th is upscale French restaurant has a casual neighborhood feel and a contemporary menu. We went for lunch ($168 per express lunch set) and tried out nearly every

Chôm Chôm

option that was on the menu. Standouts were a refreshing gazpacho, a juicy steak tartare and a delicate fresh crab cake for starters, as well as a perfectly grilled steak for the main course. Cocotte takes a delightful approach to a cursed spot that has seen more reincarnations than we care to count.

CUISINE CUISINE

Cantonese Shop 3101-3107, Podium 3, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central 2393-3933 Mon-Fri 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$

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Just entering this restaurant is impressive: a majestically designed hallway adorned with exquisite glasswork and a subtle, flowing fountain. Like neighboring restaurant French Window, Cuisine Cuisine is part of the Miramar Hotel group. The menu is long and dishes beautifully presented. Try the Angus beef with broccoli, the hand-shredded chicken, bean shoots with crab roe, and fried rice with dried shrimp and sea urchin. The food is all delicious and the staff helpful.

DK CUPPA TEA CAFE European 16A Staunton St., Central 2771-2847 Daily noon-8pm

NEW REVIEW

Th is cozy café offers vegetarian dishes and desserts made mostly from fresh, raw ingredients. We were happy with all of our light, healthy options: our lunch set ($98) came with six dishes of marinated salads, potato and bell pepper sides, and fruits. We topped it off with a rose-flavored cheesecake for dessert that tasted refreshing, sweet and guilt-free all at once. A refreshing contrast to the trendy fast food joints that run rampant on Hong Kong Island, DK Cuppa is a saving grace for the modern-day diet.

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CENTRAL, MID-LEVELS, THE PEAK

NEW REVIEW

Gaucho

DUDDELL’S Cantonese 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central 2525-9191 Mon-Sat noon3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm $$$$

Perched on the top floors of Shanghai Tang Mansion, this gallery-slash-restaurant-slash-bar offers posh Cantonese dishes in a spaciously comfy setting.

of spice, although some of us didn’t expect quite so much citrus in the dressing. The desserts wowed: The cheesecake was light and fluff y, with a sprinkling of sea salt and cracker crumbs, accompanied by a small scoop of raspberry sorbet. We loved the Tahitian ice cream too.

GAUCHO Argentine 5/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Rd. Central 2386-8090 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$$

FISH AND MEAT Western 1-2/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central 2565-6788 Mon-Sat noon-11:30pm; Sun 11:30am-3pm; 7-10pm $$$

Maximal Concepts’ Fish and Meat does homestyle seafood and meat dishes in a hip and casual space. The pan-fried Spanish octopus was tender and well-seasoned. We loved the slightest hint

A swish establishment with an over-the-top interior, Gaucho injects some welcome Argentine flair to the dining scene with a menu full of South American staples and a massive emphasis on meat. Our perfectly prepared churrasco de chorizo spiral-cut sirloin ($318, 300g) was smothered in a heavenly 48-hour garlic, parsley and olive oil marinade, but the plump, juicy and super-tender fi let mignon medallions ($328, 225g) stole the show. Gaucho left a great first impression thanks to quality wine selections, excellent service and big fat Argentine steaks.

GLASSHOUSE Asian Fusion Shop 4009, 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central 2383-4008 Daily 11am-11pm $$$

Fish and Meat

Th is Gaia Group venture is a bold move away from its Italian roots. Housed in an all-glass venue on the top floor of IFC Mall, Glasshouse is bright, noisy and cozy all at once. The dishes are

nominally Asian, but you’ll fi nd quirky western elements infused in most of them. We fell in love with the delicious crab cakes full of flossed meat and crunchy veggies. The star of the meal was hands-down the squid ink “pad Thai”: essentially a pasta dish, but with a hit of Southeast Asian spices. The dried shrimp and juicy, yolk-soaked al dente pasta were a match made in heaven.

HANJAN Korean G/F, 4-5 Wo On Lane, Central 2409-6000 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm; Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sun 5pm-4am $$

NEW REVIEW

More of a watering hole than a restaurant, Hanjan is a fun venue in Lan Kwai Fong that fuses familiar Korean ingredients with western-style bar snacks. Its semi-alfresco space lets you enjoy the buzzing LKF atmosphere without having to shout over blaring music and drunk partygoers. The “flying nachos” ($140) weren’t really nachos at all but plain tortilla chips arranged around a dip which was well-balanced and flavor-packed with bacon, onion, beef, kimchi and melted mozzarella cheese. The volcano fried rice ($128) was our favorite dish of the night, spicy and not too oily, with plump grains surrounded by a pepperdotted egg omelette which was a creative twist on conventionally scrambling the eggs directly into the kimchi rice. Wash down the food with an innovative kimchi cocktail or a bottle of Chamisul soju ($98).

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CENTRAL, MID-LEVELS, THE PEAK

INAGIKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT

NEW REVIEW

Japanese 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central 2805-0600 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm $$$$

Inagiku IFC is the second branch of the renowned Japanese restaurant. The venue is vast, with high ceilings, great views of Victoria Harbour, a simple sushi bar in the middle and lots and lots of space. From tempura and sashimi to teppanyaki and udon, Inagiku’s got all the bases covered. No matter what you go for, it’s a safe bet that there’ll be some scrumptious sashimi involved. We most relished our pale-pink, deliciously fatty toro and generally all things that were raw. The tempura was very nice, too, with crisp and fluff y batter combined with fresh prawns and crunchy veggies.

ISLAND TANG Cantonese 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central 2526-8798 Daily noon-10:30pm $$$$

Herbivores

HERBIVORES Vegetarian 35 Staunton St., Central 2613-2909 Mon-Fri noon-11pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11pm $$

Long at the forefront of the “green” food movement in Hong Kong, Herbivores is a mainstay of the city’s veggie scene. Loaded with mushrooms and veggies, the savory, creamy pumpkin carbonara was the perfect antidote to a chilly, drizzly day, while the intriguingly named “Spicy Temptation” (a chili-infused chocolate mousse with hazelnut) didn’t quite live up to its ambitious name but nonetheless added a bit of kick to what could have been a fairly mild meal.

HO LEE FOOK Modern Chinese 1-5 Elgin St., Central 2810-0860 Sun-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6pm-12am $$$

David Tang’s restaurant is in full art deco regalia, from the high ceilings, plush leather chairs and etched mirrors down to the tiniest details, such as the crystal-stoppered soy sauce bottles. The wokfried wagyu was fantastic with juicy, succulent cubes of prime beef in a rich sauce. The Sichuan prawns were equally superb; instead of blowyour-head-off spiciness, their tanginess was more subdued and distinctly more Cantonese-style. For our money, there’s no better place for refi ned yet authentic Cantonese cuisine.

JINJUU Modern Korean UG/F 32 D’Aguilar St., Central 3755-4868 Daily noon-11pm $$$

NEW REVIEW

Stretching beyond its London roots, Jinjuu has arrived in Hong Kong ready to make a statement. Creating modern Korean food packed with flavors, chef Judy Joo proves her prowess in the kitchen with delectable dishes like bulgoghi wagyu beef sliders, Korean fried tofu sliders, spicy doenjang mussels and instant ramen coated with cuttlefish.

KIKUSAN Japanese Shop B13-16, B/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central 2521-3344 Daily 11:30am-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Th is dark and classy basement restaurant at the Landmark serves dim sum, “japas” (Japanese tapas), sushi and a mixed bag of rice and noodle dishes. The interiors are calm and zen, with gray stone floors, dark wooden tables and rattan chairs. We’ve visited for both lunch and dinner and were very impressed by the prices and the quality of the dishes. The fiery pork dumplings in chili oil ($45) were loaded with flavorful minced meat and sealed tight in thick, juicy skins. The grilled honey chicken wings ($68) were awesome as were the plump and meaty spinach-wrapped shrimp dumplings ($42). What’s more, Kikusan’s isolated basement location means you’ll never have trouble fi nding a table.

Om ta ba th th pu sk th

EDITOR’S PICK

HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie Chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. We totally dug the Yunnan-style steak tartare ($138) with a tangy soy sauce base, served with crispy prawn crackers for extra texture. The sang choy bao ($128) with gigantic lettuce leaves and marinated cucumbers on the side left us wanting more. Our stir-fried cauliflower and Brussel sprouts dish turned some boring veggies into a savory hit with a bit of a kick, thanks to the bacon chili jam.

To yo to W Ho en to cr

Ho Lee Fook

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M Ry co

o Lee Fook

Sponsored feature

Time for Brunch—

Alfresco Style It’s finally spring time and it’s time to get out and about with your loved ones! Head straight to Tsim Sha Tsui’s very own Alfresco Lane in Tsim Sha Tsui Centre and Empire Centre, a strip by the waterfront that’s away from the bustling streets of central Tsim Sha Tsui, while still remaining in the heart of the city. This little urban oasis has a range of hip, laid-back yet affordable dining spots serving cuisines from around the world, and they are the perfect destinations for a chillax weekend brunch with family. Planning ahead for family gatherings on Mother’s Day next month? Give mum the best day possible at Spasso Italian Bar & Restaurant. Take your family to Spasso’s bountiful buffet ($388 for adults, $228 for children), made for veggies, pescetarians and die-hard carnivores alike. With five fully packed food stations, there’s something for everyone—and plenty more. Offering jet-fresh seafood galore, as well as heart-warming Italian specialties like hand-thrown and stone-baked pizzas, Spasso is the perfect choice for families to spend the day celebrating the motherly love. Wanna give your supermums some superfoods for this special occasion? Take her to Wooloomooloo Steakhouse, which will

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be serving a Supermums Brunch on Mother’s Day weekend. The three-course brunch menu ($250) features “nutrient booster” starters including freshly shucked oysters and healthy spring green salad, rich tomato puree soup as a “health serum,” and protein-packed options such as halibut fillet, open-faced cauliflower lasagna or grilled Australian filet mignon. Go for some exotic Southeast Asian flavors at Namo Avant Thai, where they will be serving a special harborside brunch on Mother’s Day. The semi-buffet ($238 for adults, $138 for children) offers a range of Thai specialties, from a sumptuous antipasti buffet to the seafood egg curry and chicken curry that are all jampacked with flavor, to the herb-crusted and tenderly grilled spring lamb chops. There’s a gastronomic treat for every member of the family. For traditional British grub, you can’t miss London House, by the world-famous Gordon Ramsay. It won’t be a “Hell’s Kitchen” experience—and you won’t be yelled at as the friendly staff serves you some of Britain’s staple brunch items, including their

full English breakfast ($178), eggs Benedict ($98) and hearty Sunday roast with Yorkshire pudding ($178). If you’re a carnivore, get your meat fix at Brotzeit German Bier & Restaurant along Alfresco Lane. Go Bavarian style and chow down some meaty treats in the Bavarian platter ($128), which includes signature German Nürnberger sausage, crispy bacon and eggs for a full spread. Alternatively, go lighter with the Benedict ($128) for a classic brunch moment. Alfresco Lane, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre & Empire Centre, 66 & 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, tsimshatsuicentre.com.hk

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lead the way. Fragrant dishes include spicy chicken and chili, and fried-and-battered prawns, juicy from head to tail.

MOTT 32

EDITOR’S

PICK Cantonese B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central 2885-8688 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight $$$$

Mott 32

a sweet chili dipping sauce, while the tom yum goong ($178) is one of the best we’ve had in Hong Kong with beautiful big tiger prawns.

MAMA SAN Balinese 1/F, 46 Wyndham St., Central 2881-8901 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

Aussie chef Will Meyrick’s popular and ubertrendy Mama San comes from Bali to Central. Not as roomy and high-ceilinged as the mothership, Mama San HK still remains faithful to the original décor, complete with MS Bali’s signature wall mural. Service was generally fantastic. Cocktails were strong and refreshing. The deep-fried prawns (complete with heads and shells) and the uniformly golden, crispy-skinned suckling pig stood out with feisty flavors. The accompanying sambal sauces were another plus. Mains were served with heaps of greens on the side—a nice, healthy touch.

Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and reeks of exclusivity. There are two popular signature dishes at Mott 32: the Peking duck, and the Iberico pork char siu. We couldn’t try the duck but we did go crazy over the char siu, which was sweet with a crispy caramelized top, though it erred on the lean side. The sweet and sour pork with aged balsamic was another easy win.

NAMKEEH Noodles 1/F, Kai Tak Commercial Building, 66-72 Stanley St., Central 2536-0221 Daily 8am-9pm $

For picky eaters and neat freaks who nevertheless want a part of Hong Kong’s rich cha chaan teng culture, NamKeeH—a spin-off of the original Nam Kee fishball noodle chain—is right up your alley. With its clean and vibrant upstairs digs full of single-seaters—each thoughtfully

equipped with an iPad—and the standard claustrophobically spaced tables, NKH isn’t a space for lingering. You’re only eating noodles here, choosing from a soup base, noodle type (from rice vermicelli to soba) and toppings. The lunch sets also come with a free drink and choice of starter, and takeaway saves you 10 bucks per order.

NGAU SAAM GUN Chinese Shop A, 148 Wellington St., Central 2865-6899 Mon-Sat noon-3pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Ngau Saam Gun’s all about the beef, but it’s not a steakhouse. It’s actually a Chinese restaurant that serves everything cow. On the menu are fusion-y dishes, topped or paired with beef balls, chunks, bits and slices. Our “Crazy Beef Fried Rice” ($90, part of lunch set) was delectable, consisting of a giant mound of slick, chewy kernels interspersed with specks of seasoned meat, corned beef-style. The rice was full of wok hei, the flavors sharp and savory but never overwhelming. Our “Rice in the Cow” ($120, part of lunch set) was a strange combination that didn’t work as well. There was a glob of fried rice wrapped in a thin layer of beef, which was then topped with melted cheese. We appreciated NSG’s attempt to approach Chinese cuisine creatively, but the dishes that really stand out are the ones that respect the classics.

MAN WAH Cantonese 25/F, The Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4003 Mon-Fri noon-3pm; Daily 6:30-11pm $$$$

Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. What more can we say? If you’ve never been before, make a point of going sooner rather than later.

MANCHURIAN CANDIDATE

NEW REVIEW

Sichuan 5/F, Winner’s Building, 37 D’Aguilar St., Central 2522-0338 Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm $$

If you’re wandering around a rundown building in the middle of LKF in search of this Sichuan private kitchen, then you’re in the right place. If you’re a first-timer, your instincts are probably telling you to double-check the address, but ignore the urge and let the scent of chili peppers

Mak Mak

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ON DINING KITCHEN & LOUNGE

NEW REVIEW

French 28-29/F, 18 On Lan St., Central 2174-8100 Mon-Thu 11:30am-midnight; Fri-Sat 11:30am-1am $$$$-$$$$$

ON is chef Philippe Orrico’s second project, after Upper Modern Bistro in Sheung Wan. Th is time, he’s branched out to Central with a glam twostory space that epitomizes casual fi ne-dining. The space is awesome, and the bar with outdoor terrace is a major bonus. Service was friendly and diligent. Our mixed cold cuts platter ($198) was generous, containing a good mix of spicy (chorizo) and savory (Parma) options. We also dove hungrily into our juicy and well-marinated spicy beef and tuna tartare ($228). Although technically not misses, the velvety Parma ham ravioli with Albufera sauce ($228); the thick, red rib-eye steak with black olives ($428) and slightly gamey lamb loin in roquefort sauce ($388) all seemed too generic for their heft y prices. Our dining party enjoyed the flavors and high-quality meat, but with steep prices we think this is more a special occasion type of restaurant.

Peking Garden M

ORE-NO KAPPOU

NEW REVIEW

Japanese 6/F, California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar St., Central 2328-3302 Sun-Thu 11am-3pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-3pm $$-$$$

One of the very first establishments to open at the new California Tower, Ore-no Kappou is a Japanese brand dedicated to serving Michelinstar-quality food at pocket-friendly prices. The interior is light and bright with high ceilings. We went during the day and were given a long list of affordable set lunch options. Craving carbs, we went for an Ore-no ramen ($80) and a tempura udon set ($150), both accompanied by a

Popsy Modern Kitchen

dizzying array of sides. The udon noodles were served chilled and brothless, topped with a creamy runny egg and plenty of pulverized daikon, spring onion, seaweed and bonito flakes. It was a very refreshing combination. We also enjoyed our velvety chawanmushi (egg custard) and the relatively grease-free battered prawns and veggies. Ore-no is proof that you can fi nd that perfect balance between high-quality food and reasonable pricing—even when you’re occupying a sparkling new building right in the heart of LKF.

OSTERIA FELICE

PEKING GARDEN Chinese Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central 2526-6456 Daily 11am-3pm, 6-11:30pm $$$

Th is famous-with-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is best known for its signature Peking duck, which has won many accolades, and rightly so: the Peking duck skin is sliced thin by the chef, and served with the The restaurant is also known for its Beggar’s Chicken, which has to be ordered days in advance.

CMY

EDITOR’S

PICK Italian Shop 16-21 G/F Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2516-6166 Mon-Sun 11:30am-late $$-$$$

POLOLI

Bringing a slice of Italy to the Far East, Osteria Felice takes a joyous approach to dining, with smiling photos hanging from the walls and warm, hospitable service. Th is is fuss-free Italian comfort food at its fi nest, from multiple different preparations of smooth and creamy burrata cheese, to homemade pastas and flash-baked Neapolitan-style pizzas piled high with toppings. The Salciccia pizza delivers a one-two meaty punch, with juicy ground pork and peppery fennel sausage resting on a cheesy base of fior di latte. Other pizzas like the Calabrese and Diavolo cater to those with a high spice tolerance, while handmade pastas are generous and plentiful with fresh seafood, hearty ragus and zingy herbs. The mozzarella and burrata section is pure decadence, with 11 different presentations of the premium cheeses, including the classic caprese or burrata topped with Oscietra caviar.

Th is takeaway shop is a healthy alternative to greasy Americana. It serves poke: raw, cubed and marinated seafood salad from Hawaii. Here’s what you do: Choose between salad, rice or a mixture of both. Then select two proteins out of eight choices including tuna, octopus and tofu. Wash down with a Hawaiian craft beer. First-time customers can taste-test every protein before selecting two to go in the takeaway bowl ($90). Our favorites are two types of tuna: one is marinated “Hong Kongstyle” (soy sauce and cucumber) and the other is the slightly spicy “wasabi mayo.”

Hawaiian 35-39 Graham St., Central 2755-8099 Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm $

POPSY MODERN KITCHEN

NEW

REVIEW European 5/F, The Wellington, 184-198 Wellington St., Central, 2907-8188 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

The sister restaurant to gallery-resto The Popsy

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CMY

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and shisha, we decided to head back to see what’s changed. We decided the mezze platter was too obvious (although the one our neighbors were feasting on looked pretty awesome) and instead went for the pastille ($65), essentially a pigeon pastry fi lled with egg and spices, which was both unusual and delicious. We also enjoyed the roasted fresh fig salad ($90), which came dotted with plenty of soft goat cheese. The lamb tagine ($165) was tasty and a generous portion, though it didn’t blow our minds. We washed this down with a couple of bottles of excellent Lebanese 961 beer and a mint tea. Our verdict: Good rather than great food, a buzzy atmosphere and generous hospitality mean that Sahara is still the fun night out it’s always been.

Restoration

Room, this fi ne dining European enclave has similar themes of art and food, exploring a unique creative culinary journey dotted with seasonal ingredients and classic techniques. Art displays rotate every few months, featuring both local and international artists, with dishes that reflect the color and beauty behind the vibrant artworks in the dining room. Both intimate and though-provoking, dining here is best reserved for date nights, girly afternoon teas, or group dinners with your most art-appreciating friends. On our visit, the eye-catching tasting menu included such whimsical dishes as the “Tiger Stripes” with tiger prawns, angel hair and zucchini, and the “Crimson Tide” dessert with raspberry layered cake and cherry crumble. Beautifully plated dishes entice you to eat with your eyes fi rst, as you delve into a fantasy world of food, art, culture and imagination.

RAKUEN Japanese 4/F, Shop E, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central 3102-2255 Mon-Sat 5:30pm-2am $$

Th is cozy little Okinawan outfit is part of the EN group and has been serving happy customers for almost a decade now. The fact that it has stood the test of time speaks volumes on its own. You’ll fi nd woodsy, Japanesy décor, narrow spaces, and an intimate, sorta-izakaya atmosphere at Rakuen. We were an alcohol-free group and opted out of the awamori, but made up for it with a voracious appetite for the dishes. We wolfed down a plate of caviar-like sea grapes; a platter of golden, savory fried fi sh cakes; a round and delectably sticky block of peanut tofu with soy sauce; heavenly deep-fried camembert; a saucy and flavorful sautéed eggplant dish; and grilled ox tongue skewers.

RESTORATION Creole 1/F, 63 Wyndham St., Central 2536-0183 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm; Sun 11:30am-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Dining Concepts alumni Jack and Kathlyn Carson chose to go back to their native New Orleans roots with Restoration. Eager to try everything, we went family-style at our table and ordered the best cocktail shrimp starter any of us had ever had, plus gumbo, blackened catfish, Southern fried chicken, a slightly plain jambalaya and number of sides. The standout dishes were the blackened catfish served on a plate with warm and flavorful popcorn rice and the huge helping of Southern fried chicken —the latter with juicy, tender meat hidden beneath crispy skin.

SEOUL BROS

EDITOR’S

PICK Korean G/F, 66 Hollywood Rd. Central 2793-5703 Mon-Thu noon10pm; Fri-Sat noon-midnight; Sun 1-9pm $

Quick and tasty Korean food is what Seoul Bros is all about. Have a go at the newest trend in Korean food culture with their Korean-style quesadillas—a delicious crossover between Mexican and Korean cuisine stuffed with kimchi. Make sure to also try the traditional bibimbap and banh mi dishes, all with a K-twist. A set of banh mi, fries, corn and soda comes to about $78.

ROCKABILLY American 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central 2869-0099 Daily 5pm-1am $$

Though the name may bring 1950s rock ‘n’ roll to mind, this two-story LKF gastropub doesn’t overdo the theme. Downstairs, Rockabilly is set up pub-style (it used to be the Whiskey Priest, after all), but you can spread out a little with comfy seats upstairs. There are 11 types of sliders ($122-138 for three sizeable sliders), including three gourmet varieties. We were impressed with the Moo Moo’s flavor combination: a beef burger topped with grilled pineapple, teriyaki and ginger.

SAHARA MEZZ BAR Middle Eastern G/F, 11 Elgin St., Central 2291-6060 Daily 6-11:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Good ol’ Sahara has been offering reasonably priced food, decent drinks and a bit of oldfashioned fun since it opened in 2005. Having become a SoHo mainstay for cheap happy hour

Social Place

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SICHUAN HOUSE Sichuan 7/F, M88, 2 Wellington St., Central 2521-6699 Daily 11:30am-midnight $$

We enjoyed the classy décor at Sichuan House: all clean lines, mirrored walls and subtle Asian touches. The Mouth Watering Chicken ($128) was chilled, tender and boneless, nicely soaking up the Sichuan chili sauce. Dan dan noodles ($68) weren’t as heavy as we’re used to, with a thinner, saltier peanut soup and a generous portion of minced pork. The winner was the lamb shank with cumin ($188), a leg of lamb (practically melting off the bone) rubbed in spices. We scooped it all up. Well portioned and very reasonably priced for Central standards. Bonus points for atmosphere and attentive, friendly service.

SOCIAL PLACE Chinese 2/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central 3568-9666 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-10pm $-$$

Contemporary Chinese is the name of the game at Social Place, but don’t worry—we’re not talking foams and deconstruction. Rather, classic dishes are given a subtle makeover in presentation and flavor in a space that’s designed more like a cutesy Scandinavian bistro than a Chinese banquet hall. The food is high-calibre, affordable, and delectably innovative. Steamed buns might come in the shape of mushrooms ($36), but they tasted

divine despite the gimmicky appearance. We devoured our colorful spiced eggplant starter ($38); an extremely fragrant chung yao gai (chicken with oil and scallion, $58) topped with feisty ginger and coriander; a savory Chinese fried pancake ($33) that had us begging for more, and a host of other dishes. Service was abominable: There were many different members of staff who tried to serve us, but apparently nobody talked to each other. We were given the wrong bill, and there was a long hiatus between our first three dishes. Although the staff is a bit confused, don’t let them get you down and you’ll be seriously impressed by the food at Social Place.

SOHOFAMA Modern Chinese Block A, G/F, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central 2858-8238 Daily noon-10:30pm $$$-$$$$

NEW REVIEW

Sohofama is a collaboration between concept store G.O.D. and the guys behind Locofama in Sai Ying Pun. “MSG-free” sometimes implies “bland” when it comes to Cantonese cuisine— but at Sohofama the dishes were all delectable and flavorful, from the lipsmacking chili sauce clams ($218) and the succulent half-cooked Bellota pork slabs ($238), to the sweet and filling flower crab with fragrant sticky rice ($398). We’ve been more than once and never really encountered a dish we didn’t like.

SOGNO CAFÉ Western Flat 2D, 2/F, Welley Building, 97 Wellington St., Central 2757-9878 Mon-Fri noon9:30pm; Sat noon-10:30pm; Sun 1:30-9:30pm $

Among the crowded lunch spots in Central is this relatively hidden upstairs café. There are only five items on the lunch set menu, which is in Chinese only. We liked the Korean-style spicy squid with the rice ($78), with a slightly zesty mild kick that complemented the squid. Portions are just right— not so big that you’re stuffed and not so small that you feel out-of-pocket. The dishes provide no surprises but if you’re in need of a quick bite on a busy day, then Sogno fits the bill.

STEAK FRITES BY THE BUTCHERS CLUB

NEW REVIEW

Steak Frites UG/F, 52-56 Staunton St., Central 2858-9800 Mon-Sun noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

Not content with just being known for burgers and steaks, the Butchers Club group has launched Steak Frites by Butchers Club. Now, they’re doing it like the French: serving a salad first before moving to a rib-eye cut with fries on the side. The wedge salad is a bit boring, but the steak steals the show. There’s also a secret menu accessible by QR code that has a few options other than beef.

Steak Frites By The Butchers Club

ocial Place

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serves up nine different tartines (open-faced sandwiches) starting at a reasonable $68. Despite being on the small side they’re all made with top-notch ingredients, including fresh burrata, seasonal garden vegetables, lobster and premium duck from Maison Samaran in Toulouse, France. Of the three tartines we tried, our favorite was the duck confit ($98), beautifully paired with caramelized onions, mint and citrus. The high quality of the ingredients shone through in the tomato and burrata ($88), while the goat cheese and figs ($98) would have been a definite winner had the figs been roasted further to tease out their sweetness. Reasonable prices and quality ingredients could make this a popular spot with the chic lunch crowd—although if you’re hungry you may need to order two or three. Tate

SOI 7 Thai 57 Wyndham St., Central 2840-0041 Sun-Wed 11:30ammidnight; Thu-Sat 11:30-2am $$$

NEW REVIEW

Outfitted with old-school Thai iconography, this two-story restaurant has the trendy vintageindustrial vibe down pat. The Thai dumpling appetizer made a fantastic first impression—with flavorful chunks of wagyu beef and a spicy Thai sauce. The Thai buffalo chicken wings ($115) literally fell off the bone and packed a nice heat. The star of the show was the pad Thai lobster ($298): a killer presentation backed up with balanced textures and generous bites of lobster.

SUSHI KUU

TATE French/Japanese 59 Elgin St., Central 2555-2172 Mon-Sat 6-11pm $$$$

Chef Vicky Lau heads this posh space on Elgin. With high ceilings and light colors, the space is intimate but open at the same time. Tate’s food is predominantly French, with just a hint of Japanese influence.

talking cozy armchairs, a clubby atmosphere, free newspapers, 100-plus single malts, beer served in silver tankards and a menu featuring steak and stout pie, bangers and mash and chocolate crumble. By the time you’ve worked your way through that, you’ll be ready to take on the world.

THE DINER American 4-8 Arbthnot Rd., Central 2562-3323 Daily 8pm-late $$

With its tiled floors and shiny red booth seats, The Diner is as American as it gets in this part of town. The all-day-dining establishment offers an ambitious menu of burgers, fries, and deep-fried things, with a section of salads and soups to make up for the artery-clogging selection. Our Southern Fried Chicken burger delivered. A giant, crispy chicken patty sticking out from a light and fluffy bun, each bite was juicy and delightful. The fries with “cheese-bourbon bacon jam” (we have no idea what this meant, although we did see some bacon bits) were more powdery than we liked, but still flavorful and filling. Not wanting to overload on carbs and grease, we balanced things out with an average-looking but sufficiently tasty Caesar salad, which came with anchovies and tons of parmesan and strips of bacon.

THE CHINNERY British 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central 2825-4009 Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30pm $$$

When it came to fixing up the Mandarin Oriental, certain things were deemed to not be broken— and thank goodness The Chinnery was among them. Renovated but essentially unchanged, it’s still a bastion of the best of Britishness: we’re

THE DRUNKEN DUCK Beijing 44-46 Staunton St., Central 2803-0050 Sun-Thu noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-midnight $$

NEW REVIEW

SoHo seems to be slightly cooler these days: The area is undergoing a resurgence of new concepts. From the Enoteca Group comes the Drunken Duck, a gastropub serving up Asian-inspired

Japanese 1/F, M88, 2-8 Wellington St., Central 2971-0180 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

This classy Japanese joint doesn’t disappoint— especially for one located so close to Lan Kwai Fong, where essentially, good food goes to die. There is a huge variety to choose from— everything from the standard hand rolls and sashimi to grilled and fried dishes. The sushi platter came with all the usual suspects: egg, roe, tuna and salmon. They were done well—the fish was fresh and the slices generously cut. The prawn tempura was crunchy but light.

TARTINE French 2-3F, 38 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2808-0752 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-11pm $

NEW REVIEW

With light blue interiors and an airy garden terrace, Tartine should satisfy Francophiles who love sipping on spritzers, dainty sandwiches and people-watching—the window looks straight out over the Mid-Levels escalators. The posh eatery

Tartine

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to its breaking point. The smoked salmon, for example, comprises salmon, charcoal, egg and smoke. And it tastes like heaven. The chic little restaurant, with its upside-down-crockery chandelier and kitchen view, accommodates up to 12 guests at a time.

THE NILE Egyptian 26 Hollywood Rd., Central 2431-0475 Daily 5pm-2am $$

North African cuisine may be underrepresented in Hong Kong, but in the space of just a few blocks in SoHo lie three very similar offerings from the Egyptian Wakim brothers: Le Souk, Sahara and The Nile. We tried a selection of smaller dishes: the falafel came in cigar-shaped crispy batons coated in sesame seeds, which the manager urged us to eat quickly while they were still hot. We dipped them in tahini and they were soft, fresh and delicious. Hummus is a staple, but to mix it up we ordered it with harissa chili paste, which made a very welcome and spicy addition to the chickpea. The sizzling platters of grilled meat were a hit: the lamb in red wine was quite good, with chunks of tender meat in a thick sauce.

THE SAINT American 55 Elgin St., Central 2522-2646 Sun-Thu, noon-midnight; Fri-Sat noon-2am $$

The Square

dishes bang in the middle of Staunton Street. Visiting on a weeknight, the place was packed— the casual atmosphere and attentive service were a big plus. Crunchy Irish rock oysters ($139) were cooked in a crisp Tsingtao batter and served with a Thai dipping sauce that packed a kick. Eighthour slow roasted and grilled octopus ($108) was tender, with slightly burnt ends that gave a smoky fl avor and an interesting textural contrast. The portion was a bit stingy for the price though. DD’s signature duck ($138 for a quarter) is marinated in five-spice, then steamed, dried and sozzled in Tsingtao before being roasted. It’s presented Peking duck-style and served with hoisin sauce, spring onions and steamed pancakes, but this felt unnecessary. Duck is a fatty meat, but this dish seemed fattier than most. It could have had a

crispier skin, too. The Drunken Duck offers a solid dining experience in SoHo, with some interesting variations on Asian classics.

THE KRUG ROOM American 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central 2825-4014 Daily 7:30-11pm $$$$$

Chef de cuisine Uwe Opocensky trained at Spain’s three-Michelin-star restaurant El Bulli—threetime winner of the “World’s Best Restaurant” crown—and it shows. Breathtakingly expensive, The Krug Room, one of only three in the world, offers a unique dining experience based around sampling different Krug champagne vintages. Dishes have been created to perfectly accompany the bubbly, and stretch the term “innovative”

NEW REVIEW

In place of McSorley’s in SoHo is another Britishstyle gastropub: The Saint. If you’re too lazy to venture outside of SoHo or simply fancy a G&T with your pub grub, then this is a safe bet. Bone marrow ($128) with bacon and onion marmalade, parsley salad, roasted forest mushrooms and toasted sourdough bread was pretty good value. We liked the bacon-wrapped boar Scotch egg ($98)—a sizeable chunk that had runny egg oozing out. Watercress and pea shoot salad ($98) with mulled apple, cheddar cheese and crispy ham was a pretty good palate cleanser. Our G&T, made with Boodles Gin and Fever Tree tonic ($98), was well balanced and went well with the meal.

THE SQUARE Guangdong 4/F, Two Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central 2525-1163 Daily 11am-3pm, 6-11pm $$-$$$

The Square serves dim sum during the day and a selection of Guangdong-style dishes at night, with a ton of variety to suit different cravings. We couldn’t get enough of the casserole rice in a stone pot—the fully marinated grains were more gentle than fried rice, not as sticky as glutinous rice, and belonged in a category all their own. Other hits included the curry beef and the vegetable beancurd sheet rolls.

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TIPPING POINT Gastropub G-1/F, 79 Wyndham St., Central 29783861 Mon-Thu 4pm-2am; Fri-Sat 4pm-3am $$$

A fresh face on ever-changing Wyndham Street, Tipping Point serves up tons of craft beer in a low-key setting. The menu lists dozens of craft beers from all over the world, as well as a few homebrews on tap. Downstairs, it’s a casual watering hole with friendly staff, free popcorn, big TVs and bar snacks (the sweet potato fries and sliders are awesome). But cruise upstairs and you’ll find a cozy dining room with classy creations. For mains, the grilled wagyu steak was tasty but a touch too salty, while the crispy Iberico pork shank stole the show—charred outside, meaty inside and lots of caramelized bits to fight over.

TOWNHOUSE

NEW REVIEW

Asian Fusion 23/F, California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar St., Central 2344-2366 Sun-Wed noon-midnight; Thu-Sat noon-2am $$

Townhouse’s unique East-meets-West menu mirrors its sister restaurant Glasshouse in IFC, but with a distinctly urban feel. Aside from the bright neon “Townhouse” sign adorning the entrance, Gaia Group’s latest installment in LKF’s California Tower is a dimly lit, industrialvibe dining room that directs your attention immediately to the city lights twinkling beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows. Amid this stunning view and central location, prices remain incredibly fair, with mains clocking in below $200 and drinks under $100. Expect the unexpected, whether it’s Asian dishes with a western

twist—as in the pad thai made with squid ink noodles ($138)—or vice-versa, such as in a wellconstructed lasagna ($118) with a rich massaman curry sauce in lieu of ragu and bechamel. Fusion dishes can be a hit or miss depending on your flavor preferences, but all in all, a great place for pre-drinks and bar bites for LKF party-goers, or a solid date night spot for those with a more adventurous palate.

UEDA

VEGGIESF Vegetarian 10/F, 11 Stanley St., Central 3902-3902 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-9pm $

VeggieSF is a cozy little vegetarian café with a big personality. It’s themed around 1950s San Francisco and the moment you step out of the lift , you feel instantly transported to another era. American memorabilia decorates every nook and cranny, and crackly 50s music adds to the relaxed, fun atmosphere. The menu changes weekly except for the two most popular dishes—the beetroot burger and the lasagna.

Japanese 3/F, 11 Stanley St., Central 2327-4482 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 5-11pm $$$

Th is Japanese washoku lounge is tucked away on Stanley street, and boasts a terrific terrace for when the weather is warm. There is omakase available for both lunch and dinner, with a focus on fresh, seasonal produce and eye-catching preparations. Don’t miss the special abalone covered in thousand-year-old egg, which was a surprisingly tasty combination.

VEA European 29-30F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington St., Central 2711-8380 Mon-Sat 5pm-1am $$$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

A delicious 8-course tasting menu on the top floor of The Wellington—how could you resist? Vea’s one-of-a-kind cocktail and food pairing is well worth the splurge for special occasions, bringing together master creations from chef Vicky Cheng, formerly of Liberty Private Works, and mixologist Antonio Lai from Quinary.

VIET KITCHEN Vietnamese Shop G04&G06, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd. Central 2806-2068 Mon-Sat 11am-10pm $$

Opened by Peter Cuong Franklin, Viet Kitchen has a sleek look that makes for a pleasant place to dig into classic Vietnamese staples like pho, bahn mi and fresh sugar cane juice. Our favorite dish of the evening by far was the classic Saigon beef pho ($68), which was also the best value. It came in a huge bowl that was easily sharable between two. The broth was aromatic, flavorful and just a tad sweet, which balanced nicely with a sprinkle of chili and a spritz of lime juice. Our mango caipirinha ($98) was packed with fruit and offset by a tinge of tabasco, and a young coconut ($32) made for a refreshing appetizer. While the soft shell crab rice paper rolls were light and crispy, the accompanying pineapple sauce was practically a jam, and caramel chicken wings ($78) were over-fried and scrawny to the point of confusion. While Viet Kitchen gets points for good service and its classy environment, the big price tags on little dishes can be hard to stomach.

YAKINIKU GREAT Japanese Unit 1, G/F, Manhattan Avenue, 255 Queen’s Rd. Central 3565-6129 Mon-Sat 6-11pm $$$

Tipping Point

NEW REVIEW

EDITOR’S PICK

Great reached Hong Kong just last year—and meat lovers descended in droves to this Japanese establishment. Th ankfully, the early dinner queues have now subsided so you can grab a seat fairly quickly. We opted for the “Chateaubriand Course,” ($1,200) which is a 13-course aff air that’s just enough for two. It came with a variety of appetizers including crunchy Japanese kimchi. The somen cold noodles were served iced, and as a result the strands were perfectly al dente with a subtle sweetness. Yakiniku uses Japanese cuts flown in daily, and the chef gave each table special attention to teach us the perfect grilling time for each type of beef. Highlights were the restaurant’s prized thincut tougarashi and marinated misuji slices— marbled but not greasy—and a trio of fl avorful chateaubriand chunks.

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MID-LEVELS CHICKEN ON THE RUN Rotisserie Shop A, 1 Prince’s Terrace, Mid-Levels 2537-8285 Daily 11:30am-10pm $ On t he upper reaches of the Mid-Levels Escalator,

Chicken on the Run has been serving delicious rotisserie chicken for over a decade now. The lively little shop takes pride in its quality meat, with birds from Australia flown in daily and roasted in-store along with a smattering of sides.

SAN XI LOU Sichuan 7/F & 22/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd., Mid-Levels 2838-8811 Daily 11:30am-4pm, 5:30-11pm $$

Some might argue that there’s little point in reviewing a hotpot restaurant—you cook everything yourself after all, right? But a good hotpot (as any connoisseur knows) is all about a kick-ass broth, fresh ingredients and great sauces. And San Xi Lou has all of these in spades.

SEASALT Fish and chips 23 Mosque St., Mid-Levels 2790-7211 Daily noon-10pm $$

We are just going to come right out and say it: the best thing at this chippy spot is the popcorn prawns. Odd, since you’d think any of the three types of fish on offer—cod, barramundi and red snapper—would be the MVPs of a fried seafood establishment. But these unbeatable prawns are golden brown, crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside, packed full of flavor and just the right serving to be a main at lunchtime.

TEA SALOON BY ANOTHER FINE DAY Cafe G/F, 80-82 Peel St., Mid-Levels, 2525-8257 Tue-Fri noon-7pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm $$

Sip on fancy teas and dig into rose-flavored scones at this cutesy, pastel-colored cafe on the cobblestoned end of Peel Street. Everything is served on dainty tableware—exactly like you’d expect.

XOCO

NEW REVIEW

Mexican Shop 2, G/F, Ryan Mansion, 31-37 Mosque St., Mid-Levels 36202323 Mon 6-9:30pm; Tue-Sun noon-9:30pm $$

The servings at Xoco are BIG: no teeny-tiny $80 tacos here. An enormous chimichanga with pulled pork ($158) was easily enough to feed two, a huge tortilla packed full of goodness before being deep-fried and served on a bed of rice, salsa and black beans. The pork was tender and juicy but perhaps a little lacking in flavor

Pho Yummee

and seasoning, although a glug of the housemade habanero sauce soon took care of that. The carne asada grilled steak ($198) was a large, well-cooked hunk of tender striploin, served on the same bed of rice, salsa and beans. It was precisely medium-rare and excellently tender, though again perhaps falling just short on the flavor front. Still, for under $200, it was a steal.

THE PEAK

PHO YUMMEE Vietnamese 1/F, Shop 19-21, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak 2849-2121 Mon-Fri 11:30am-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-9:30pm $$

Part of the Café Deco group, Pho Yummee is a bright and cheery Vietnamese joint up on The Peak, serving the classics at above-average prices. On the menu are the usual hot and cold appetizers such as rice paper rolls, grilled skewers and Vietnamese salads, and then heartier mains such as banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) and pho.

CAFÉ DECO BAR & GRILL

THE SWEET DYNASTY

International 1-2/F, Shop 101-201, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak 2849-5111 Daily 11am-11pm $$$

Cantonese G/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak 2890-2005 Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-11pm $$

The great thing about this restaurant is that it changes in ambience throughout the day— T-shirts and hiking pants are totally fine for lunch, but with the lights dimmed at night, you can totally bring a date for a posh dinner experience. Specialties from all over the world are available. Café Deco tries hard to accommodate all demographics and taste buds, and while it’s not the type of resto that’ll sweep you off your feet, you can definitely get an enjoyable meal here to suit your mood, whatever the time of day.

Don’t be deceived by the name of this Asia-wide brand: TSD serves just as many variations of dim sum as it does dessert. On the savory side, the restaurant is known for its congee and noodles, although these items were conspicuously absent on the menu. The signature cheung fun with pork floss and spring rolls wrapped in thick, smooth rice noodle sheets was a winner. Although the har gau and siu mai only came in sets of two, they were meaty and generously sized. The tofu fa dessert was silky smooth.

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ZONE B Tsim Sha Tsui and around

Aqua

TSIM SHA TSUI ABOVE & BEYOND Chinese 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3400-1318 Daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-11pm $$$

There’s the spectacular harbor view from the 28th floor. Then, of course, there’s the food. The menu encompasses a variety of innovative dim sum and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. Going for a weekend dim sum lunch, we ordered har gao, spring rolls with crabmeat, scallop and pumpkin cheung fun, steamed beef balls and a bowl of sliced beef congee mixed with raw egg. Everything was served in a neat and simple format, and there was nothing spectacular about the presentation, but the flavors of each dish were refined and sharp.

APGUJEONG KOREAN TENT BAR Korean 1/F, Koon Fook Centre, 9 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui 3579-2992 Mon-Sat 5:30-5am; Sun 5:30pm-3am $$

Dim, loud and just a bit unruly, Apgujeong is the sort of place you’d frequent after work

with a bunch of hungry buddies to load up on soju, banchan and every stereotypical Korean dish imaginable. Don’t be afraid to shout for attention—that’s the only way you’re going to get it. The stars were clearly the mains, which came in rapid succession. Our seafood pancake was a soft, gooey yellow mess topped with choppedup pieces of squid and prawns. We loved the minced raw beef dish that was topped off with a raw egg. The sweet marinade made the meat taste almost cooked, cleverly disguising its sanguine undertones.

AQUA Italian/Japanese 29-30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3427-2288 Weekdays noon-2:30pm; Weekends 6-11pm $$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

Perched on the top floor of One Peking Road, this sleek spot has unbeatable views of the harbor. Aqua offers a dual menu through two separate kitchens: Aqua Tokyo with Japanese food and Aqua Roma with Italian. Upstairs is Aqua Spirit, a divine bar. The interiors are uber-chic, with plenty of glass and mirrors. Excellent food, attentive service and innovative dishes.

ARASHIYAMA Japanese G/F, 11 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 2622-2095 Daily noon-3pm $$

NEW REVIEW

This hidden spot on Minden Avenue harbors a few undiscovered gems. We started with the basics— salmon sashimi ($38 for two) and tuna sashimi ($88 for two)—to test the waters, and were impressed by the fresh quality of the fish, albeit some steep prices. We moved on to fatty yellowtail sushi ($35 for one) and scallop sushi ($28 for one)—again, both were faultlessly fresh and as smooth as butter. Out of curiosity, we ordered the grilled mirin puffer fish ($68)—it came with a light whipped mayonnaise and tasted a bit meaty, almost like preserved pork (and thankfully devoid of lethal poison).

CELESTIAL COURT Cantonese 2/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 29 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2369-1111 Mon-Sat 11:30am-3pm, 6-11:30pm; Sun 10:30am-3pm, 6-11:30pm $$$$$

The restaurant’s roasted suckling pig is probably one of its most famous dishes. Ours was succulent

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without being too fatty, and we had to stop ourselves from inhaling it before the rest of our dishes came. Next up was sliced garoupa soup, served with preserved egg and a scattering of coriander. A favorite dish of ours, it was excellently done. The fish was mild and firm: always a plus, as sometimes it can fall apart at a touch.

best. We can’t fault the sizzling platters of chicken tikka, with its huge hunks of tender meat, nor the makhanwala, a bright orange bowl of rich, mildly spiced curry flavored with tomato and ghee.

ÉPURE

EDITOR’S

PICK French Shop 403, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3185-8338 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$$$

CUCINA

CUISINE CUISINE

If you’re looking for cross-harbor gems, the Dalloyau group has added fi ne-dine Épure and outdoor bar La Terrasse to its repertoire. The flagship patisserie/restaurant and related establishments are all clustered together in the corner of Ocean Terminal, with Épure holding court where Spasso used to be. Get settled in a forest-wallpapered booth and dig into decadent specialties by French chef Nicolas Boutin.

Guangdong 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2315-5222 Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sun 10:30am-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

FAIRYLAND

Italian 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 5-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2113-0808 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Dig into delectable antipasti, pizzas, hearty pastas and lots of meat at Cucina while enjoying the spectacular harbor views.

Cuisine Cuisine in The Mira serves both traditional and contemporary Cantonese cuisine, alongside more than 450 fi ne wines. Delectable shrimp and pork dumplings, and taro balls with foie gras are just some of the innovative dishes you’ll fi nd. The ambiance is superb too; you won’t fi nd the dreaded cacophony of elbow-to-elbow diners here. Everything is sleek and refi ned.

DALIN POCHA Korean 78-81 Kimberly Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2658-9382 Daily, 6pm-4am $$

NEW REVIEW

Korean foodies will want to check out Dalin Pocha, a trendy eatery that serves up cool Koreanstyle dishes and all the skewers you can stomach until 4am. We enjoyed the King BBQ set ($298), which comes with an 88cm-long string of food that’s dangling from the ceiling. It includes all kinds of goodness like prawns, sausages, chicken, bacon, pork belly, cherry tomatoes and more—all lined up and ready to be eaten. We had fun with the cool tear-and-cook experience, but it’s not just a gimmick: The meat was juicy, the veggies were fresh and it was a healthier version of your typical Korean barbecue. Grilled spicy chicken ($180) was also a favorite, with a good balance of sweet, spicy and sour flavors.

Korean Fried Chicken 28 Austin Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 2556-0906 Daily 3pm-4am $$

EDITOR’S PICK

Th is place is all about Korean fried chicken, popularized by the television drama “My Love From the Star”. Fairyland serves fried chicken in five ways: We went with the grilled fried chicken, which is marinated in a flavorful sauce and comes in small, boneless pieces. These goodies were crunchy and juicy at the same time, and we were hooked by the fi rst bite.

FLAME AT TOWNGAS AVENUE European Shop 1, Promenade Level, Tower 1, China Hong Kong City, 33 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2367-2713 Daily 11am-11pm $

It’s a shame that Towngas’ very own restaurant is let down by its crummy décor, because the food is actually pretty good. We went for the five-course tasting menu, as did every other diner, and when you add an extra dollar you get a plate of foie gras. The armagnac-scented lobster bisque with prawn was flavorful, while the grilled lobster on capellini pomodoro (warm, al dente angel hair with tomato pesto) was simple but utterly satisfying. For dessert, we were treated to the fluﬃest, most ethereal souﬄé we’ve ever had.

GADDI’S French 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, 19-21 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2315-3171 Daily noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm $$$$

Where else can you dine to the strains of a live chamber orchestra? Th is is the fi nest of dining in a formal room with chandeliers, unparalleled service, and an endless wine list at the worldrenowned Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong. You might splash out on the chef’s table in the kitchen, or try the surprisingly affordable set lunch. Everything is delicious and delicate here—Try the pigeon cooked with goose liver and black truﬄe. Jackets required for men.

GAYLORD Indian 1/F, Ashley Centre, 23-25 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2376-1001 Daily noon-2:45pm $$

EDITOR’S PICK

One of the oldest restaurants in Hong Kong, Gaylord has been hitting the ball out of the park with its delicious curries for over 30 years. You’ll fi nd a mean tandoori here, and the curries and veggie dishes are all out of this world. Dishes all ring in at around 100 bucks or so, give or take,

DELHI CLUB Indian 3/F, Room 3, Block C, Chungking Mansions, 38-44 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2368-1682 Daily noon-3:30pm, 6-11:30pm $

If you’re willing to brave the arcade and jostle amongst the backpackers, second-hand phone shops and suit touts, there are some excellent Indian restaurants tucked away on the upper floors of Chungking Mansions. Delhi Club is one of the best-known, and quite possibly one of the

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and the comfy, welcoming atmosphere only serves to confirm it as one Indian resto you’ll be returning to time and time again.

HOI KING HEEN Chinese B2/F, InterContinental Grand Stanford Hotel, 70 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2731-2883 Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm; Sun 10:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$-$$$

Hotel Chinese restaurants should be excellent, if only to give tourists a good fi rst impression—who wouldn’t try Cantonese cuisine for their fi rst time in Hong Kong? Hoi King Heen comes close, but it could use a bit more attention to detail. Located in the hotel basement, the restaurant is neither too kitsch nor Chinese. The Peking duck came with the whole presentation: the “lotus leaf pancakes” were nicely steamed on top of the stove and we had individual sets of sauce and spring onions.

HUGO’S Western Lobby, Hyatt Regency Tsim Sha Tsui, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3721-7733 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-11pm $$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

It’s all about old-fashioned elegance and classic western dishes here—from hunky steaks to fresh lobster and everything in between. Plus, the discreet, almost clairvoyant service is the kind that’s hard to come across these days. Come here for an elegant long lunch with beautifully presented dishes and don’t miss the trolley with an array of delectable sweet and savory dishes to tempt your fancy.

Hoi King Heen

HUTONG Chinese 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3428-8342 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$$

There’s no debate; this celeb favorite is gorgeous. With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in an upscale northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. The deboned lamb ribs is one of the signature dishes, rich with flavor and aroma. The food is beautifully presented Chinese haute cuisine and you could spend a long while here enjoying a rich and satisfying meal. Totally worth it—as long as you are willing to pay.

KENJO Japanese G/F, 30 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 2369-8307 Daily noon-10:30pm $$$$

The description “authentic” gets thrown around a lot, but this tiny izakaya restaurant is the real deal thanks to the sheer freshness and simplicity of its dishes. Just off the brash glare of Minden Avenue, Kenjo serves up excellent sashimi and sushi alongside simple but incredibly well executed fare such as udon, broiled snacks and delicate seafood arrangements. There’s a refreshing lack of overly precious presentation, serving up clean, light flavors, with fish so fresh it’ll convert the last of the non-raw eaters. Try the chef’s tasting menu, an off-the-beaten-track selection of stuff you’d never figure out on your own.

KICHI Japanese 6/F, Tern Plaza, 5 Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2368-0000 Daily noon-2pm, 6:30-10:30pm $$

Kichi has been open 10 years on busy Cameron

Road, but this small, cozy restaurant has managed to stay off the radar. It specializes in “farmhouse cuisine,” mainly simple stir-fry dishes and stews that Japanese farmers make day-in, day-out. If you like comfort food try the beef, which was tender and juicy. Kichi, of course, also serves the usual Japanese fare. The toro and sea urchin were both jet-fresh. Defi nitely one of the best Japanese meals we’ve had in a long time.

LA SAISON BY JACQUES BARNACHON French 2/F, The Cameron, 33 Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2789-8000 Daily noon-midnight $$$$

Th is cross-harbor gem is the Hong Kong outlet for celebrated French chef Jacques Barnachon of the Michelin-starred L’Etang du Moulin in Bonnetage, France. Protégé Florian Muller is at the helm of La Saison, whipping up classic French dishes that are as decadent and delectable as they come. The menu celebrates fresh, seasonal ingredients, with dishes executed with precision and elegance.

LONDON HOUSE

NEW

REVIEW British G5, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3650-3333 Weekdays noon-11pm; Weekends 11-1am $$

From bangers and mash to fish pie, the weekend brunch at this Gordon Ramsay spot is a short but sweet selection of classic British comfort fare. We expected nothing less than near-perfect fish and chips at a Ramsay restaurant, and this version did not disappoint: two succulent hunks of Atlantic cod, beer-battered and fried to a golden crisp ($198). The Asian-leaning barbecue chicken wings

Hutong

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($108) were dipped in gravy and deep-fried, resulting in a delicious soy and honey-glazed crispy coating which we happily devoured. The shepherd’s pie ($198)—another cornerstone of British pub grub—was classic to a tee: a flavorful stew of ground lamb, onions and carrots buried under a golden crust of buttery mashed potatoes. Although the flavor was good, the pot of mushy peas accompanying our fish and chips was on the soupy side. The red fruit crumble ($88) we ordered for dessert had a delicious pastry top, but the pool of sauce at the bottom was too sweet. Alfresco harbor-side views and satisfying pub grub make this a solid destination for weekend grazing.

LOONG TOH YUEN Cantonese 3/F, 1881 Heritage, Hullett House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3988-0000 Mon-Fri noon-3pm, 6-11pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3:30pm, 6-11pm $$$

Loong Toh Yuen has an unbeatable ambience. The paper lantern-lined corridor that leads to the

stone courtyard of the Hullett House really gives this Cantonese restaurant an elegant Chinese feel. The restaurant serves dim sum in the afternoons, and you can expect dishes like shrimp rolls made with thousand year egg and and deep-fried mashed potato dumplings. Staple mains are seafood-focused.

MAIN ST. DELI American B1, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2375-1133 Sun-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-11pm $$$

This place is based on New York’s famous Second Avenue Deli and the interior tries hard to mimic the ambiance and attitude. It’s bright and cheerful, and an ideal spot to pick up a quick lunch or snack. Indeed, there are few places in the city that feature stacked Reuben sandwiches, monster burgers, or even an authentic Greek salad with feta cheese, Kalamata olives, romaine lettuce, cucumber, red onions and bell pepper. Prices remain fair, and ingredients high quality.

MERHABA Turkish G/F, Yiu Pont House, 12 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui 2367-2263 Mon-Wed 4pm-2am; Thu-Sat 4pm-3am; Sun 4pm-1am $$

This Turkish restaurant on the far end of Knutsford Terrace isn’t a new spot by any means. It’s been there for as long as we can remember and it’s always relatively full with hungry patrons. While the dishes stick close to Turkish cuisine (a few Turkish friends say it’s not very authentic, but still tasty) the cocktails are standard, run-of-the-mill. The specialty here is definitely the meat: from grilled beef, chicken and lamb to barbecued goodness on swords, to addictive, juicy deep-fried lamb spare ribs with mint yogurt.

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO American 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2732-2343 Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm; Sun 5-10pm $$$$

Morton’s of Chicago doesn’t disappoint. Expect

Satisfy your cravings for Malaysian and Singaporean avours anytime of the day. Monday - Sunday

6:30am - 10:30pm

For reservations, call 2213 6613

Level 2, Hotel Jen Hong Kong (Exit B2 of HKU Station) 508 Queen’s Road West, Western District, Hong Kong RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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no less than quality steaks and top-notch service in a five-star setting. For our main, we went for a Cajun steak and a six-ounce filet mignon. The former comes in the form of a big slab of perfectly marinated, juicy meat, encrusted in the steakhouse’s own blend of spices. The latter is a petite slice of medium-rare goodness.

MYUNG GA Korean Shop 2702, 27/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2369-1177 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$

Situated on the 27th floor of iSquare, this staff fave is decked out in contemporary Korean décor, all in soothing beiges, with plush patterned fabrics and expensive celadon welcoming you at the door. Do ask for a booth by the windows with a view if you’re booking ahead, the “seaview” is to die for. The menu doesn’t have that much variety, compared to the newer Korean establishments in town, and the banchan isn’t out of this world, but it’s the grilled meats here that take center stage. The kalbi was succulent, perfectly marinated, the scallops were juicy (don’t leave them on the grill for too long) and chicken skin caramelized wonderfully.

NADAMAN

Nobu

Japanese LL2, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2733-8751 Daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm $$$

Named one of the “top ten great hotel restaurants in the world” 2005 by Hotels Magazine, Nadaman offers authentic Japanese cuisine and a new contemporary dining experience with over 170 years’ tradition of excellence. Choose between the sushi bar, teppanyaki grill, general dining area, tatami room or private teppanyaki room. The ingredients are fresh, the dishes stunningly presented, and the flavor combinations on point. Nadaman is a solid choice for special occasions or when you’re craving fine-dining Japanese.

NAM AH 1964 Singaporean Shop A, G/F, Kowloon Centre, 29-39 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2466-6702 Sun-Thu 11:30am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-11:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Nam Ah has been around (more or less) since 1964, and was one of the earliest restos in Hong Kong to serve Singaporean/Malaysian fare, but it’s inevitably picked up more Hong Kong tastes over the years. Muted woods make for a nice, Malay-ish space at this Ashley Road joint. The bak kut teh ($75) was Cantonese style, more medicinal than meaty—and full of delicious bits to nibble—though it could have done with a touch more pepper. Hainan chicken rice ($85) was well cooked and moist, and satay lamb ($90 for a half

dozen) was well charred and came with ample, easily scooped-up peanut sauce. Curry ox tongue ($75) had a good sauce, although the thick slabs of ox tongue were perhaps a little tougher than we might have hoped. The Hainan chicken rice set sadly lacked our favorite sticky dark soy sauce, but the chicken was plump and tender.

NAMO Thai Shop G18, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2739-1133 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$-$$$

NEW REVIEW

This waterfront Thai restaurant and bar is a favorite amongst the worker bees of East Tsim Sha Tsui. Spanish chef Alejandro Sanchez’s signature dish was a big hit: chargrilled giant Atlantic octopus with lemongrass and coconut ($168). Only half the table typically liked octopus, yet this dish had everyone digging in. The curries are a major winner at Namo: not once do you feel like the sauce is covering up poor produce. Two musthaves are the green curry chicken ($148) and red curry with fish ($208). Having been a few times, we would also recommend the seasonal specials and promotions: They’re usually good value. We would return for the tasty Thai dishes with fresh international influences and ingredients, topped off with a charming harbor-facing al fresco bar area.

NOBU Japanese 2/F, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2313-2323 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight $$$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

This place is mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, and after a few years, the food is still exactly right. The quality standards of every dish are so stringent and precise we wouldn’t have noticed if Nobuyuki Matsuhisa was serving us personally. Awash in ambient amber and rose lighting, Nobu has a stunning floor-to-ceiling view of the harbor, bathed in sunshine by day and glowing with the city lights by night. The blindingly fast chefs create some of the freshest, purest and most innovative Japanese food we’ve ever eaten. The sushi is a must, as is the amazing cooked black cod that made Nobu famous. In a word: perfection.

SABATINI Italian 3/F, The Royal Garden Hotel Hong Kong, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2733-2000 Weekdays noon-2:30pm; Weekends 11:30am-2:30pm $$$$

NEW REVIEW

Among a slew of fancy restaurants at the Royal Garden Hotel, Sabatini Ristorante Italiano promises authentic Roman cuisine in a rustic atmosphere—and delivers both without restraint.

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From the moment you walk in, the service is on point. Our server had bread on the table in seconds, quickly followed by a sommelier worth his salt. The king crab meat appetizer ($348) came with big chunks of crab meat, topped with a zesty citrus dressing and smoked herring caviar. Our lamb chop main ($498) was perfectly prepared: char-grilled, tender meat with a side of creamy polenta, crispy asparagus and fresh mint jelly. The flaky Napoleon pastry with layers of cream and fresh berries was a standout among the half-dozen options on the old-school wooden dessert trolley.

SPRING MOON Cantonese 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, 19-21 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2696-6760 Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sun 11am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$

You’ll be very well taken care of indeed at Spring Moon, the Chinese restaurant at the Peninsula. In keeping with the hotel’s 80-year history, this refi ned eatery is decorated in art deco dark woods and stained glass. Visit for luxurious dim sum or classic such as osmanthus pigeon and Peking duck.

favorite variation, with cold ramen noodles and broth as a dipping sauce. The broth did taste very strongly of pork and fi sh, but the rich flavors also gave it an unpleasant stickiness. The noodles were correctly springy, but didn’t carry much of the flavor of the soup. The barbecued pork slices, however, were heavenly—unlike most pork in ramen, Tokyo Agura serves them slightly roasted and sprinkled with some black pepper.

WA-EN YAKINIKU Japanese 12/F, The Toy House, 100 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3428-3345 Daily noon-3pm $$

SARAVANA BHAVAN Indian 4/F, Ashley Centre, 23-25 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2736-1127 Daily 11:30am-3pm $

Nobu

EDITOR’S PICK

STEAK HOUSE WINE BAR & GRILL

EDITOR’S PICK

American BF, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2313-2323 Weekdays 6-11pm; Weekends noon2:30pm $$$$

Saravana Bhavan is the new Hong Kong outlet of the largest vegetarian restaurant chain in the world, serving up southern Indian bites to all comers in a fairly undistinguished space. “Vegetarian” is a terrifying word to us, but if there’s one cuisine that does veggie right, it’s southern Indian. We got steamed slightly sour idli cakes ($45) with a wealth of dipping sauces and chutneys, and ghee roast masala dosas ($70): huge, beautifully crispy rolled pancakes with a healthy scoop of masala potatoes inside. Then came the excellent mixed vegetable parotta ($75), sliced flatbread tossed in a beautiful spicy sauce. And then there was the Kaima idli ($70), chewy mini idli cakes fried in spices. Both were texturally excellent and deeply flavorful. It was all we could do to waddle out—for $140 a head.

Gorgeous wine bar, killer harbor view, and stunning steaks, perhaps the best in the city. Th is place celebrates beef with an amazing range of cuts: USDA-certified prime beef (New York strip, rib-eye, petit fi let mignon, center cut, fi let mignon and a Chateaubriand for two); Australian wagyu and Black Angus; and Argentinean and Canadian strip loin, all grilled to order. Choose your own knife, sauces and natural rock salts from around the world to accompany your feast. The salad bar boasts 24 kinds of fresh veggies to get things started on what will be a meal to remember. On Sundays there’s unlimited wine, paired with your choice of soup, a main course and visits to the salad bar. Terrific.

SHANG PALACE

SUSHI TOKUMI

Cantonese B1/F, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2733-8754 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm, Sun 10:30am-3pm; 6:30-11:30pm $$$

Japanese 5/F, 8 Hau Fook St., Tsim Sha Tsui 2330-7578 Daily noon-11pm $$

Th is popular restaurant is hard to beat in terms of both atmosphere and cuisine. Specialties include lobster dumpling in supreme soup, and the dim sum is excellent too. The food is also great value-for-money here, made even better by a range of credit card discounts.

SPOON BY ALAIN DUCASSE French InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2313-2323 Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm; Sun noon-2:30pm $$$$

When Michelin-starred celebrity chef Alain Ducasse opens a restaurant, expectations are high. The space is gorgeous, with a fabulous view almost at water level, and a ceiling installation of 550 Murano glass spoons. The wine cellar near the entrance boasts more than 3,000 bottles of Old and New World wines. The food ranges from transcendent to surprisingly rustic, and the service is always outstanding.

With its clientele consisting mostly of Japanese expats, Wa-En offers a delicious Japanese-style DIY barbecue, specializing in prime cuts of wagyu beef. Richly marbled, all these delicious morsels require is a little lemon juice and soy sauce for melt-in-the-mouth deliciousness. The prime platter isn’t exactly cheap, but it’s more than enough for two to three diners, but don’t forget to order some plain rice and ice cream to cleanse the palate afterwards.

WOOLOOMOOLOO PRIME Australian 21/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2870-0087 Daily 11:45am-late $$$$

Th is Aussie steakhouse is chic but still laidback and casual. Food is a little on the pricy side but the steaks are well worth it. The tender cuts of meat are seared to a smoky perfection on the outside but remain deliciously juicy on the inside. You’ll also fi nd your usual assortment of steakhouse sides, and an extensive wine list to match.

Hidden away in one of those tall Tsim Sha Tsui towers packed with dining outlets, Sushi Tokumi opens into a spacious restaurant with a charming outdoor terrace. The menu features all of Japan’s greatest hits, from sushi to udon to shabu shabu. The generous tempura platter ($78) came with two big plump prawns, a meaty white fi sh and an assortment of fresh-tasting vegetables. We appreciated the texture most: not overly oily. If you’re into sake, then you’ll appreciate the long list, which has some bang-for-your-buck bottles.

TOKYO AGURA Japanese 15D Austin Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 2369-3211 Mon-Sat 12:30-3pm, 6:30-10pm (or until stock runs out) $

Th is tiny nine-seater ramen joint has a constant queue and 60 bowl-per-day limit. There are only three items on the menu: salt-flavored ramen in a pork and fi sh broth, soy sauce-flavored ramen in the same broth and Tsukemen, our current

Wooloomooloo Prime

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XIA FEI Shanghainese Shop B226-227, K11 Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 2801-6111 Mon-Fri 11:30am-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-11pm $

The casual Xia Fei serves up all-day dim sum and Shanghainese staples with surprisingly good service. Dinner started off with a bang thanks to the impressive xiaolongbao ($33)—these delicate dumplings were packed with juicy meat and tasty broth. We loved the spicy pork wontons ($42), which were stewing in a lightly sweet, cinnamoninfused sauce. The fried green beans with minced pork ($60) were served crispy, salty and topped with just enough meat. Stewed eggplant ($60) arrived swimming in a tomato-based sauce, which was a surprise, but we enjoyed the unusual combination and nutty texture of the dish. With some of the friendliest and most eﬃcient service we’ve seen in a dim sum restaurant, we’ll be back to this Shanghainese restaurant. It’s a satisfying choice on nearly every level.

butter. Despite a full coating of wing sauce, the skin managed to remain crisp for a satisfying crunch. To top off the calorific meal, we dug into a chocolate lava cake ($82), which was baked in a cast iron skillet to contain the luscious molten chocolate. Grand Central is everything you want an American-style pub to be: fatty bar foods at generous portions and wallet-friendly prices, in a clean and comfortable environment.

INAKAYA

EDITOR’S

PICK Japanese Shop A, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2972-2666 Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm $$$

ZENPACHI

At the robata bar, plates and plates of colorful vegetables, meats and seafood are spread out flat in front of the patrons, and at the wave of a fi nger, kneeling chefs will pass the ingredient of your choice onto their wooden paddles and grill them to perfection, for your unrestrained consumption. Come here with a hearty appetite, and a group of friends to share in the convivial spirit.

Japanese 6/F, The Toy House, 100 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui 3428-3615 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

KOWLOON TANG

Arriving hungry at this elegant restaurant, we went straight for the beef and pork shabu-shabu set. The sashimi and vinegar crab were both of excellent quality. Then a divided basin with a mild fish stock on one side and a peppery soy saucebased broth arrived, together with Australian wagyu and pork kariton from Okinawa. Tangy ponzu and a sesame paste brought out the sweetness in both.

WEST KOWLOON GRAND CENTRAL BAR & GRILL

NEW REVIEW

American Shop R001, 3/F & Roof, Civic Square, Elements, Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2736-4888 Weekdays noon-midnight; Weekends 11am-midnight $$

At first glance, Grand Central Bar & Grill has all the characteristics of any old sports pub—cheap beers and fatty bar food accompanied by a 90s hit playlist… but generous American-size portions, well-executed flavors and a stylish two-story space make this pub a dining destination in and of itself. The nachos at Grand Central instantly curbed our cravings ($128): stretchy, melty cheddar cheese clinging to crispy tortilla chips, with homemade guac, pico de gallo and smoked chicken slices for extra meatiness. The buffalo wings ($134) were likewise fantastic—deep-fried flavor bombs doused in the addictive duo of hot sauce and

Madam S’ate

Dongguan/Peking Shop R002-003, 3/F, Roof Deck, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2811-9398 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

Part of the Tang series of restaurants, Kowloon Tang is a posh Chinese fi ne-dine with the dishes to back it up. The signboard with the cutesy bubble letters depicting its name is very misleading: But once you walk in, it’s a whole different universe: ceiling fans, dark carpets, leather and white tablecloths transport you back to an era of Old World opulence. The menu emphasizes meat-heavy and strongly flavored Dongguan-style dishes, but for some reason also offers traditional—and delicious—Peking duck roasted by a chef straight from Beijing.

MADAM S’ATE European Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Rd West, West Kowloon 2537-7555 Mon-Fri noon-late; Sat-Sun 11am-late $$$

A quirky menu and a playful ambience— hallmarks of the Madam Sixty Ate brand— are reliably in place at Madam S’ate, a casual counterpart to its Wan Chai sister restaurant. With an alfresco terrace and a light, airy interior lined with booth seats, Madam S’ate is a tastefully executed all-day dining space. There are different menus for lunch and dinner, with heft y differences in type—and price. For the mains, a roasted barramundi with perfectly crispy skin and firm white flesh came paired with black truﬄe puree and balanced out by a dash of zesty lemon seasoning. The wagyu beef cheek turned out slightly less tender than we’d expected.

Pivo Czech Bar

PIVO CZECH BAR European R004, Civic Square, Elements Mall, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2196-8733 Sun-Thu noon-1am; Fri-Sat noon-2am $$

NEW REVIEW

With warm, tavern-like décor, Pivo Czech Bar is an inviting space to hunker down for the night with comfort food and excellent Czech beers. The menu covers a small but thoughtful selection of Eastern European fare, from braised oxtail to sausages, pork knuckle and schnitzel. Our duck leg ($185) was the highlight of the night: fennelcrusted crackling skin giving way to tender, pull-apart meat. The pork schnitzel ($168) was also a winner, with scattered capers and chopped dill lending tang to a crisp, breadcrumb-crusted pork chop and topped off with a soft-boiled egg. We were most impressed by the hospitable service; restaurant manager Lubomir was clearly passionate about the food of his home country, eagerly explaining each dish and at one point, bringing us a shot of Becherovka to sample. With

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cinnamon and allspice notes, it was the perfect digestif after knocking back pints of hoppy, honey-laced Pilsner Urquell. Pivo Czech is a hearty taste of the Czech Republic, with generous pours to pair.

SING YIN Cantonese 1/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 3717-2222 Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Th is stylishly furnished Cantonese restaurant at the equally stylish W Hotel serves dim sum and classic Chinese specialties. The decor is elegant, with muted woods and dark panels making for a versatile dining room where you can have a private business lunch or a group gathering. The chef takes dumplings and other delicacies to whole new levels, putting heart and effort into each of his creations.

TENKU RYUGIN

HUNG HOM

TAI KOK TSUI

KAZUO OKADA

THAI DELICIOUS CANTEEN

Japanese 5/F, The Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St., Hung Hom 3746-2722 Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$$

Thai/Chinese 43-44 Pok Man St., Tai Kok Tsui 3428-6248 Daily 7am-11pm $-$$

Japanese fi ne dine Kazuo Okada caters towards well-being—meaning less meat, more veggies; less deep-fried, more broths. Th is might sound like a turn-off to some, but rest assured that the dishes are still exquisite, refi ned and properly delicious.

PALETTE Buffet 1/F, Hotel Sav, 83 Wuhu St., Hung Hom 2275-8778 Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$$

Palette at Hotel Sav offers an organic vegetable salad bar; an oyster station starring bi-valves from Australia, USA and France; tons of seafood; and plenty more buffet items.

Hong Kong is alive with authentic Thai spots, but we’re always game to fit one more on the list. Th is local spot is a fast and easy canteen to grab your favorite Thai dishes. Despite not being similar to any curry we’ve had, the warming soft shell crab curry ($138) was delicious. Oddly enough it appeared to be made with lightly scrambled egg (does this mean it’s still curry?) yet we still gobbled it down with the crunchy deep-fried soft shell crab which was juicy and meaty. The beef with flat rice noodles ($35) arrived in a large bowl with a whole lot of sauce. We enjoyed the flavors, soft noodles and tender beef but wished there was a bit less of the greasy sauce—it was verging on soup. Solid Thai food makes this a good post-work destination for those in the area.

Japanese 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd West, West Kowloon 2302-0222 Daily 6-9:30pm $$$$$

A Michelin-starred Japanese resto, Ryugin offers a three-hour long, ten-course, premium traditional kaiseki menu. Signature mains include a monkfish liver with seasonal vegetables in special miso sauce. Tailor-made menus are also available.

THE NIGHT MARKET Taiwanese Shop 1028, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2807-2292 Daily 11am-11pm $$

Th is restaurant has opened up a second branch in Elements mall, serving up classic Taiwanese street food and home-style dishes. We shared a perfectly fried, not greasy pork chop cutlet with tangy dipping sauce. The xiaolongbao soup dumplings had an overly thick skin, but they were saved by the well-seasoned meat and the delicious, albeit scalding, soup inside. We tried the Th ree Cup chicken, cooked with basil: they say you can’t be a real Taiwanese restaurant if you can’t get this dish right. It was aromatic and tender, but could have done with a bit more rice wine.

TIN LUNG HEEN Chinese 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon 2263-2270 Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 6-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 6-10pm $$$$

Have a memorable dining experience at the glitzy Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong: soaring high above the city on the 102nd floor, Tin Lung Heen serves a refi ned Cantonese feast fit for a king.

Tin Lung Heen

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238

SHEUNG WAN 238 Modern European 238 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2517-7322 Daily 11am-midnight $

This small resto has a menu that’s a bit of a mix, with French, Italian and Dutch (“bitterballen” meatballs) dishes all jostling for room. Modern European should cover it—although there’s plenty of Asia thrown in for good measure. At $125, the set lunch isn’t bad, especially as the portions are more than generous. A chicken salad, which came in a large lettuce “bowl,” was crunchy and juicy and an ideal summer starter, tasting not unlike a mild Thai salad. A tomato soup was cooked with coconut milk and a tad spicy, so it tasted more like a super-tomatoey Malaysian curry than anything else. What we expected? Not really. Good? Yes.

BIBO French 163 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2956-3188 Mon-Fri noon-3pm, 5pm-late; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3:30pm, 5pm-late $$$$$

Between the colorful chaos of authentic contemporary art, personable service and opulent

menu, Bibo is a strong contender for one of Sheung Wan’s best tables. Four plump Hokkaido scallops ($340) came with an interesting trio—corn foam, corn kernels, corn purée. The cheese platter is great value: four decadent, diverse cheeses for $190. And how could we forget the homemade sourdough? It’s the best bread we’ve had in Hong Kong.

CHACHAWAN Thai 206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2549-0020 Daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm $$$

EDITOR’S PICK

Chachawan brings authentic northern Thai creations to the neighborhood. Though it’s interesting to watch the team of chefs in action, the space is a bit cramped. Chachawan’s signature sea bass stuffed with lemongrass is delightfully tender, and the marinated chicken thigh has a lovely garlic flavor. The char-grilled Iberico pork tossed with chili and garlic was our favorite of the night: the grilled and salty meat was prepared perfectly, while a squeeze of lime really brought it to life. The wagyu beef salad had a nice heat to it and an interesting texture thanks to the rice dressing. For dessert, don’t miss out on the warm coconut rice dumplings.

CHO LEUNG ZI (醋娘子)

NEW

REVIEW Chinese Shop B, G/F, 139 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan 2470-9070 Mon-Sat 10:30am-11pm; Sun noon-10pm $

Th is new Sheung Wan joint may not have an English name above the door—just as well as the name translates to “Vinegar Lady”—but it does have an English menu. Tick your choices on the sheet provided and you’re good to go. Dan dan noodles ($40 for a set) came in a thin, delicately spiced broth with plenty of sesame notes for added flavor. The menu claimed it was Sichuanstyle, but it was defi nitely more Taiwanese. After all, how much spice do you really want at lunchtime? Well—if the answer is lots, go for the double-cooked spiced pork ($48 set): Th inly sliced pork belly, covered in a mountain of fried onions and peppers and a more-than-generous heaping of hot chili seeds. The included soy milk was smooth and refreshing and helped to cut through the spice. Adding $18 to a set got us four xiaolongbao to share—a pretty good deal, but sadly the soup dumplings weren’t up to it. The skins were way too thick and, worst of all, there wasn’t any soup inside. Don’t expect much from the dumplings but solid lunch deals land this spot on our lunchtime rotation.

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CHUEN CHEUNG KUI Hakka Shop C, Alliance Building, 133 Connaught Rd. Central, Sheung Wan 2388-7488 Daily 11am-11pm $-$$

Chuen Cheung Kui’s other branches are often packed, so we were glad to fi nd this quiet new outpost in Sheung Wan. You’ll fi nd all the usual Hakka favourites, although slightly modified for Hongkongers’ tastes. Ordering a whole chicken at Chinese restaurants can be an iff y proposition, but the salt-baked chicken ($268) here had the right balance of fatty and lean meat: pair it with a bowl of steamed rice so you can gobble up the sweet, savory sauce. Don’t forget to order the deep-fried fresh milk ($75). Th is famous Hakka dish is a strange combo that somehow works: a sweet, doughy middle, wrapped in crispy skin. A satisfying dose of Hakka food—and no queues, to boot. Go in a big group, and order loads.

second: it’s a drier, more savory version sans peanut sauce, with bean sprouts and pickled veggies to give it a crunchy, tangy kick. Also worth noting: the zucchini pork dumplings and pickled sides. It took us several visits to fi nally fi nd our favourites on the highly confusing menu, but Dandan is now one of our top picks for an easy Sheung Wan lunch.

DOPPIO ZERO Italian G/F, The Pemberton, 22 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan 2851-0682 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

With a long and cozy half-lit venue, Doppio Zero totally rocks it with the homey, casual Italian vibe. The establishment’s claim to fame is its handmade pasta, which it produces on a daily basis. Doppio Zero

FOXTAIL & BROOMCORN CRAFTY COW American G/F, 3A Upper Station St., Sheung Wan 2915-8988 Tue-Fri noon-late; Sun 11am-late $$

NEW REVIEW

Craft y Cow presents an update to the familiar concept of fusion dining, blending the trendiest ingredients together for an unusual take on classic dishes. Our favorite was the numbing bone marrow ($98), grilled with Sichuan pepperinfused butter and served with a liberal sprinkling of chili, garlic and herbs. It was an unconventional but surprisingly effective mix of flavors, with the spice offsetting the rich, buttery texture of the bone marrow. The ox tongue and kimchi ($128) had a delicious contrast of textures. Khmer hamachi salad ($148) was also good—the clean bite of the vegetables balanced the creamy tuna. We had high expectations for the duck poutine, but in the end we weren’t huge fans. A bowl of fries swimming in cheese was presented with pieces of duck confit in between—unfortunately, the cheese tasted a little plastic. We appreciated Craft y Cow’s well-curated beer and cider selection, as well as the attentive yet non-intrusive service.

DANDAN SOUL FOOD FROM SICHUAN

EDITOR’S PICK

Sichuan Shop 101A, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan 6920-8125 Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm $

Th is in-and-out noodle bar specializes in spicy Sichuan-style noodles, and there are about a dozen tantalizing options to choose from—so be sure you have your mind made up by the time you reach the counter. We love, love, love the Chengdu-style noodles, coated in a fragrant spicy peanut sauce and topped with bits of minced pork, sesame, peanuts and scallion. The Sichuan ban mian is a close

Noodles G/F, 84 Jervois St., Sheung Wan 2415-2555 Daily 11:30am-9:30pm $

Dishes from all over Asia are prepared MSGfree with European techniques at this Sheung Wan lunchtime hotspot. Our favorite dish is the Tokyo ($78): a hearty bowl of chewy ramen noodles, thick chunks of tender boneless beef ribs and mushrooms in chicken broth, perfectly topped off with an onsen egg. The Kansai ($68) is also a winner, a warming bowl of udon noodles, tofu and mushrooms in a clean, refreshing and surprisingly flavorful mushroom dashi soup. The Gurney ($88) combines fresh Hokkien noodles with thin rice vermicelli in a delicious pulled pork and prawn broth. The only downside is the shabby service. We’ve been here a few times and once had an order missing from our takeout, and another time were given the wrong bill. Bibo

GAIA RISTORANTE Italian Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan 2167-8200 Daily noon-11pm $$$

What’s not to like? Excellent Italian cuisine, a charming alfresco terrace set among lush trees on an Italianate piazza, and lots of tasty pizzas and pastas are on offer at this longstanding staple in Sheung Wan.

GONG GUAN Shanghainese 12/F, Fung Woo Building, 279 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan 2577-9789 Mon-Sun 6:30-10:30pm $$

For most of us, Shanghainese cuisine is usually limited to the usual xiaolongbao and dan dan mian at Crystal Jade, so it’s simply wonderful at Gong Guan to sample a slew of unusual, unexpected dishes, each more delicious than the last. Our favorites include a kind of Chinese BLT:

Foxtail & Broomcorn

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an appetizer of soft bread, honey-glazed Yunnan ham and crispy tofu skin that you compile yourself like a sandwich; a succulently tender braised chicken in Chinkiang black rice vinegar; and a bowl of very simple but perfect fish soup with tofu. A word of warning: the minimum seating is for eight people and there are only three tables so it’s not exactly a place you can pop in.

GRASSROOTS PANTRY

NEW

REVIEW Vegetarian 108 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2873-3353 Mon-Fri 7:30am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 9am-10:30pm $$-$$$

Owner and organic food enthusiast Peggy Chan has moved her uber-popular vegetarian-leaning restaurant Grassroots Pantry to a much larger space on Hollywood Road, accommodating the restaurant’s ever-growing army of loyal patrons and lunch-goers in the area. The expanded menu is a health fanatic’s dream, with wholesome breakfast items such as chia seed-shredded apple birchermuesli bowl ($88) and coconut kefir yogurt parfait ($98). The set lunch runs weekdays from 11:30am-3pm, giving diners the choice of the daily soup plus one starter and one main. Signature dishes include the curly kale salad with a mishmash of seeds, nuts and cheese with orange-cashew dressing, and the ethnic plate with different pickled, hot and cold elements for a complex and wholly satisfying meal. Don’t miss the popular mixed mushroom linguine which stars four types of wild mushrooms coated with white truffle oil for a divine meat-free main.

K-ROLL Korean G/F, Sen Fat Building, 6A Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan 2234-5505 Mon-Fri 11:30am-8pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-6:30pm $

were gobbled up at record speed), a perfectly sized burger with a side of fried potato balls we wish we had more of right now, a lightly seasoned and tender medium-rare minced steak with mash, and an unfussy but well-executed chicken cordon bleu. While it could have been lifted right out of the Lower East Side in Manhattan with its somewhat grainy and hipster vibe, one of the best parts of this place is that it’s hidden down a quiet alley in Sheung Wan.

EDITOR’S PICK

The titular K-Rolls (also known as kimbap) are basically Korean-style sushi rolls stuffed with beef (or tuna or veggies), egg, crab sticks and salad. They come pre-sliced in a cardboard takeaway box so you can either grab-n-go or pull up a seat in the tiny space. If you crave more carbs, the Korrito—a Korean burrito, if you will— is a heft ier rice roll stuffed with fried prawns (or chicken) and avocado. There are plenty of hot and hearty dishes on offer as well, including “K-bowls” with beef or pork, K-style bento boxes, bibimbap, spicy ramen, japchae (potato noodles) and ddeokbokki (spicy rice cakes).

LA CANTOCHE French G/F, 5 Wa Lane, 227 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2426-0880 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 7-11pm $$

Th is off-the-beaten-track and comfortable twostory loft defi nitely has a thing for pop culture. For dinner, we ordered meatballs to start (which

LA ROTISSERIE French 33 Hillier St., Sheung Wan 2324-1898 Daily noon-10pm $

Focusing on simple roast chicken with a French twist, this spot provides something a little different from the typical CCTs, various Asian restaurants, cafés and other takeaways in the area. The chicken itself gleaned mixed reviews—one of us found the meat too dry, while somebody else dubbed it a solid “OK” and yet another person found it too oily for a roasted dish. Interestingly, the highlights of our meal turned out to be the extras—the potatoes, cooked with what seemed to be the same herbs and spices as the chicken, were utterly addictive, and we were big fans of the almost fudge-like salted chocolate cake. Man Mo Café

LIN HEUNG KUI Cantonese 2-3/F, 46-50 Des Voeux Rd. West, Sheung Wan 2156-9328 Daily 6am-10:30pm $$

Lin Heung Kui is far more spacious than its older cousin, the venerable Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington. Here, you don’t get that old-school feel that the original branch is famous for, but the food is equally good— and there’s even space to breathe. There are tons of Cantonese classics to choose from but a dinner at Lin Heung Kui would be incomplete without poached chicken. The dish came with lots of meat and thankfully, the skin wasn’t too oily. Lin Heung is also famous for its Malay steamed sponge cake, which despite its name is another Chinese favourite. It’s melt-in-yourmouth good and serves as a great palate cleanser between dishes. If you want an authentic Cantonese bite but don’t have the time or patience to queue up at Lin Heung Tea House, Lin Heung Kui is the place to be.

MAN MO CAFÉ Dim Sum Fusion 40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan 2644-5644 Tue-Sun noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight $$

Everything about Man Mo Café is classy: the local Hong Kong art on the walls (all for sale), the wooden floors, the open-air feel and the pretty, blue-and-white porcelain dishes. We started with the truffle brie dumplings, which

oozed with warm, delicious cheese. Then the king spring roll, which was stuffed with a nice big prawn but lacked flavor. The “beefcheekbun” came with tender meat and a perfectly fluff y bun, but it was pretty boring without the sauce. We also found the seafood risotto to be a bit bland. Then came the signature foie gras xiaolongbao ($130 for three pieces!): it was pretty good with a sprinkling of sea salt, but where was the essential soup portion of the soup dumpling? The desserts saved the day: the HK egg lemon tart had a frothy meringue top and was the perfect bite-sized portion, while the Nutella Ball had us drooling for more.

MRS. POUND Asian Street Food G/F, Ming Fat House, 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan 3426-3949 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 5-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-midnight $$$

Built as a fictional hideaway for a burlesque dancer, Mrs. Pound is disguised as a chop shop, with a special stamp button you have to press to open the door. But that’s the only subtle thing about this restaurant. Inside, Mrs. Pound resembles a neon-lit American diner. We sat at the bar, which had Young Master Ales beer on tap ($78). We loved the crispy rice texture in the Laksa Bibimbap ($168), which had ample chicken and veggies. Some might balk at the

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Le Blanc Since 2002

n Mo Café

Free Corkage | Private Party | Anniversary Mobile: 6828 9906 Tel: (852) 3428 5824 Fax : (852) 3106 0904 Address: 6th Floor, 83 Wanchai Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Operating Hours : 1830hr - 2400hr

2010 Hong Kong Best Restaurant selected by Hong Kong Tatler 2011 Top 10 Romantic Restaurants selected by HK Magazine

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prices for “street food” but the dishes are high quality. The screamingly loud theme isn’t for more subtle tastes, but cool kids will want to stamp this box.

MUTEKIYA Japanese G/F, 9 Mercer St., Sheung Wan 2815-5322 Mon-Sat 11:30am-10:30pm $$

Mutekiya is just one of many ramen shops that have opened in recent months (in fact, we’ve lost count)—so we were a bit jaded when we heard the news, and frankly not the least bit excited. Going in with virtually no expectations, we were pleasantly surprised by what we encountered, from the cutesy hard-wood décor to the friendly staff. We ordered a miso-based ramen and a side of soft-boiled eggs (we went during lunch, and yakitori is only served at dinnertime). The noodles were nicely garnished with sheets of nori (seaweed), bright yellow corn kernels, soft Welsh onion shreds and a sprinkling of bean sprouts. Two fatty pieces of pork floated on top of the semi-opaque broth. We are not natural fans of ramen (we’d opt for udon or soba any day), but the elasticity of the noodles—a comparable analogy would be pasta cooked al dente—accompanied by the flavorful miso made for a happy meal indeed. The soft-boiled eggs with runny yolks made for a cheap, solid side.

NOSH Café 11 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan 2559-8508 Tue-Thu 8:30am-6pm; Fri 8:30am-10pm; Sat 10am-10pm; Sun 10am-6pm $$

Those working in Sheung Wan have it good at lunchtime. Sandwiches, salads, pasta, roasted meats, dim sum, pho, curry, crêpes—anything’s available at a range of prices. But like every spoiled child, we always want more. Enter Nosh, with its clean interior and a light, uncomplicated menu. We tried almost everything on the small lunch menu: a turkey baguette, the tomato, mozzarella and mixed greens salad, a Caesar salad and the special moules-frites. Everything was fresh, light and ideal for lunch. Food is executed extremely well, although the dishes on offer are pretty standard—you won’t fi nd anything crazy and new here. But that’s just lunch. What’s exceptional are the pastries and desserts. Pastry chef Aki Yamamoto is rightly proud of her work. By 10:30am in the morning, most of the pastries were sold out and halfway through lunch, she came out to warn us to order dessert right away, since the remaining few were about to get snatched up. We tried the orange chocolate mousse and the lemon tart. Let’s just say that we were speechless. Although not so speechless that we haven’t been telling everyone and their mother to try them.

Nosh

RONIN Modern Japanese 8 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan 2547-5263 Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight $$$

We slid open the nondescript door to this ubertrendy resto, owned by rockstar duo Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang—the folks behind hipster-mecca Yardbird. We were escorted to our seats right at the entrance, the tail end of a really long bar—with the glitzy chef’s station right at the other end. This meant we weren’t able to watch the chef in action and had to resort to staring at the green-gray walls for much of

dinner. But that was a minor inconvenience, one we were willing to overlook once the food arrived. The sashimi was solid—kudos to the bonito flakes scattered over the seabream—but it was overshadowed by the cooked dishes. Our absolute favorite was the triggerfish covered in crispy honey-topped batter, and paired with crunchy chestnut chips for a rainbow of textures. We were also big fans of the smoked silver beltfish tempura—lightly savory and with just the right ratio of meat versus deep-fried dough.

SHUGETSU

EDITOR’S

PICK Noodles And Rice 5 Gough St., Sheung Wan 2850-6009 Mon-Fri 11:30am-9pm; Sat noon-9pm; Sun noon-7pm $

XXXXX Ronin

This cozy venue—which is an overseas branch of the original shop in Japan’s Ehime prefecture—is long and narrow. The menu is exquisitely simple: thick, homemade noodles in three styles (dry; dipped in broth like soba; in soup like regular ramen with thinner strands), and all sold for a flat fee, no matter how much you can handle (there are 100g, 200g and 300g options). All of us unanimously went for the signature egg-topped tsukemen that came with a savory broth filled with bamboo shoots and pork belly bits, plus an extra order of fatty grilled pork belly and bamboo shoots on the side. We loved these noodles more than any ramen we’ve ever tasted—the condiments and the broth are all sideshow acts in comparison. The broth, the softboiled egg and the pork belly slices were lovely, too.

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on stone-baked sourdough ($78) came with an impressive amount of fish and a handful of freshly diced tomatoes. It was great as a light lunch, but might leave those with bigger appetites wishing they’d gone for a plate of pasta. We fi nished with a small pastry: a rhubarb and pistachio cake ($36) that was packed with fruit, sprinkled with nuts, and just the right three-bite size. TCR is a warm and inviting spot for a simple coffee catchup, a lingering weekend brunch or a quick bite.

mushrooms (call it our amateur palate, but we’re not down with tuna in tomato) we were offered spaghetti with tomatoes and mozzarella instead. Out came a teeny portion of creamed potato soup in a rather large, shallow bowl—we had difficulty scooping up the fi nal spoonful but it was tasty and actually the perfect amount. The pasta dish made especially for us was carbalicious and cheesalicious all rolled into one.

UPPER MODERN BISTRO THE LOT ON POSSESSION

French 6-14 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan 2517-0977 Mon-Thu noon-10:30pm; Fri-Sat noon-11pm; Sun 11am-10:30pm $$$

Western 22 Possession St, Sheung Wan 2576-7700 Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-11pm $$-$$$

Upper Modern Bistro

TABIBITO Japanese 20 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan 2547-2833 Tue-Sun 6pm-late; Sat-Sun 11am-2:30pm $$$

Tabibito has all the looks of a killer restaurant: an open-air set-up, pretty wooden tables, urban-chic décor and a well-designed menu. We tried a mix, most of which were recommended by the server. We weren’t blown away by anything, but at the same time, nothing was flat-out bad. The shishito peppers were nicely seasoned but quite bitter; the sweet corn tempura was creative but bland; and the pork belly skewers came out deep-fried, to our surprise and disappointment. Though far too oily, the uni mac and cheese was an interesting combo, which we scraped clean. And while we enjoyed the crab okonomiyaki (savory pancake), it was quite fi lling and the texture was mushy. That being said, the open-air venue is lovely and, at least for now, it’s BYOB with no corkage fee.

THE CUPPING ROOM

NEW

REVIEW Café LG/F, 287-299 Queen’s Rd. Central, Sheung Wan 2799-3398 Weekdays 8am-5pm; Weekends 9am-6pm $$

The Cupping Room doesn’t just do awardwinning coffee: the casual, industrial-chic café puts out great brunch and lunch too. Though the place is not open for dinner, brunch and lunch set options ($98-138, noon-2:30pm) are pretty varied, including everything from king prawn linguine to eggs Benedict. We went with the all-day breakfast options. Smoked salmon scrambled eggs tartine

This Possession Street digs sits squarely between the greasy spoons and the high-end diners of Sheung Wan. The Lot tempts us with a long list of wagyu burgers, with 14 distinct types featuring not just beef, but foie gras, chicken, fish and vegetarian. It offers a basic “Number One” burger in its lunch sets ($98): grilled wagyu, jack cheese and sweet relish, clamped in a soft toasted sesame bun, with fresh greens on the side. The beef was juicy but not soggy, and had plenty of flavor. The relish added a bright zap to the heavy meat and carb-fest. Shoestring fries were hot and crispy. If this was the most basic option, we can only pray for our stomachs given the decadent-sounding alternatives.

Chef Philippe Orrico, formerly of Pierre and St. George, has opened his own restaurant in trendy PoHo. The space is partially alfresco, with neutral gray tones, and comes with bar seats and low coffee-drinking seats, as well as proper dining table places. The menu is vast: there’s a booklet for small dishes, and one for starters, mains and sides.

WOO TUNG YAKINIKU DINING BAR

NEW REVIEW

Japanese Shop F, G/F, Fu Fai Commercial Centre, 27 Hillier St., Sheung Wan 2623-0028 Mon-Sat noon-11pm; Sun 6-11pm $$-$$$

We try to restrain ourselves from coming to this dumpling joint too often, because to overindulge and get tired of this place would be a sad thing indeed. Th is mom-and-pop cooked food center outlet (with their hipster son working front-ofhouse) consistently delivers the freshest, tastiest meat ’n’ dough delights in the West(ern District). Each day, the kitchen will put together roughly four flavors for diners to choose from, which may include anything from the signature peashoot and pork to beef and enoki mushroom; egg, prawn and pork; pumpkin, crab and pork; or green onion and lamb. Each serving can come boiled or pan-fried, and your order comes with a complimentary light and refreshing tomato broth.

Th is mezzanine space is a small spot to down Asahis and snack on bbq meat. The service at Woo Tung was exceptional for a BBQ do-it-yourselfer. Not only did the servers come and fl ip our meat for us, but they also brought our dishes in order of how flavorsome they would be, and automatically brought the fi nal vegetable dish when they saw our grill was empty. Our dishes, from boneless chicken with garlic butter ($79) to beef brisket slices ($89) were all of great quality. Somehow, you are able to leave the restaurant without the stench of BBQ smoke in everything you wear. Although the meat quality was great, everything did come in dainty morsels. After six dishes for three people, we were still hungry. Also, either the menu wasn’t versatile enough or the marinades could have been kicked up a notch: everything was either meaty or garlicky. Maybe the missing ingredient was more alcohol… While food is generally good here, you’d better make like the typical salaryman and let the booze fi ll you up.

TRATTORIA QUEEN HOLLYWOOD

YARDBIRD

Italian/Japanese G/F, 258 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2559-6077 Mon-Sat 11:30am-11pm $-$$

Japanese 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wan 2547-9273 Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight $$$

TQH serves up a simple Japanese take on everyone’s Italian favorites. Picking out our lunch was simple since there was only one set menu to choose from. However, when we were told the main was pasta with red sauce, tuna and

Helmed by chef Matt Abergel, the insanely popular Yardbird offers a simple menu of starters, skewers and sides. The skewers are all chickenbased, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Expect to queue.

TRADITIONAL BEIJING DUMPLING HOUSE

EDITOR’S PICK

Dumplings Queen St. Cooked Food Centre, 38 Des Voeux Rd. West, Sheung Wan 6349-2832 Daily noon-when dumplings run out $

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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SAI YING PUN BA YI Xinjiang 43 Water St., Sai Ying Pun 2484-9981 Tue-Sun noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$

Chico Chica

Th is venerable Xinjiang resto may have wobbled after appearing in the Michelin guide, but it’s back and on form. And with Sai Ying Pun getting increasingly trendy, that puts it firmly on our lamb-loving radar. Lamb is the order of the day here: if you’re not into sheep, you’ll feel like a vegan at a steak convention. Go in a large group, as we did, and order a set menu ($1,038 for at least six, more like eight) which is plentiful and promising. Make sure to call ahead and reserve the superb roast leg of lamb, which comes encrusted with cumin. It’s tender, juicy and worth the trip alone.

CHAU KEE Chinese Shop H1, G/F, Tung Lee Mansion, Water St., Sai Ying Pun 2559-2389 Tue-Sun 6am-5pm $

El Loco Gringo

Let Chau Kee take you through the quintessential Hong Kong diner experience. You’ve got to brave a 15-30 minute wait, but it’s all worth it for their custard French toast. Once you fi nally get in: order all your dim sum favorites. The har gao ($22) is particularly large and juicy, and the fancy “yin yeung siu mai” ($22) comes with two flavors: one regular and one topped with truffle oil. Shrimp toast ($22) is also delicious: fi lled to the brim with al dente shrimp and covered in toasted sesame seeds. But the star of the show is the “lava custard” French toast ($18), which is pretty much the only reason you had to queue for half an hour—everyone is here for it. Slicing into it, a molten fi lling of sweet egg custard pours out, which complements the crispy fried bread. It’s awfully, sinfully good. While the service is as good as any CCT (i.e. meh), you’re also more than likely going to be forced to sit next to strangers in the painfully cramped and narrow shop. Come in a group of four to bag booth seats. Fresh ingredients, generous portions and an unbelievable, next-level French toast makes this a place we almost wanted to keep to ourselves.

CHICO CHICA Spanish Tapas Shop J, G/F, 70 Third St., Sai Ying Pun 2517-9777 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$

La Paloma

NEW REVIEW

Chico Chica serves up slightly Asian-influenced tapas in a chilled-out space on Th ird Street. Very affordable house wines at $48 per glass ($48!) started us off nicely. Our tortilla ($68) was beautifully eggy and oozy, with the unusual but excellent addition of patatas bravas sauce. Ham croquetas ($75) were packed full of meat, although

left to fry for a tad too long. A phenomenally moist, succulent cut of meat, Iberico secreto pork ($128) was served Thai pork neck-style, perfectly chargrilled then topped with a spicy pomelo salad. We could go on eating it forever. Churros ($68) were freshly cooked, golden crisp on the outside and soft inside, while a half-portion of “Rice and Milk (Tea)” ($40) was a light rice pudding, gently flavored with Earl Grey and full of berries and sorbet. Chico Chica’s charming service, good prices and some pretty tasty Spanish bites will have the muchachos and muchachas running back.

EL FISHAWY Middle Eastern G/F, Hang Hing Court, 123-125 Third St., Sai Ying Pun 5921-8796 Mon-Thu 6pm-midnight; Fr-Sun 6pm-2am $$

Th ird Street—especially west of Western Street—is home to plenty of delicious restaurants, including the cozy El Fishawy. The hummus was good and the zaalouk (eggplant) dip had a delicious sweetness thanks to plenty of roasted red pepper. The pita bread was fresh, hot and soft, a littler thicker than we were used to and perfect for greedy scooping. Then a mixed grill for two: a mountain of gently seasoned chicken, lamb and beef arrived, piled high over flavored rice with roast peppers and tomatoes on the side. The chicken in particular was a touch dry, but the beef came tender and juicy.

EL LOCO GRINGO Mexican 49 Bonham Rd., Sai Ying Pun 2858-8833 Daily 6pm-1am $$

NEW REVIEW

Castelo Concepts is taking over Sai Ying Pun one restaurant at a time, and one of the latest is this super-high-ceilinged restaurant/bar in a big basement just off Bonham Road, with laundry hanging from the ceiling for that extra barrio feel. “Big Boss Nachos” with beans ($60) were well above the usual Hong Kong standard, with particularly good corn tortillas. Beef and cheese jalapeno poppers ($15 and $10 apiece, respectively) were juicy and moreish—the beef was better—although the blue cheese ranch sauce was pretty unremarkable. Chicken and pork tacos ($35 and $40 for one) were piled high with meat, and the pork taco with its pineapple and habanero chutney in particular was worth a second helping.

FISH SCHOOL Seafood G/F 100 Third St., Sai Ying Pun 2361-2966 Tue-Sun 6-11pm $$$$

NEW REVIEW

Fish School is a casual neighborhood venue which centers around, you guessed it, fish—as well as other locally sourced, sustainable seafood. A big proponent of Hong Kong’s fishing culture and wet markets, Chef David Lai has conceived a modern

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Fish School

and inventive menu based almost entirely off locally sourced seafood and produce. While the fish is a must-order, the starters and small plates hold their own here, from a beautifully constructed monkfish liver and foie gras terrine interwoven with layers of aged tangerine peal, to plump and fresh seared hamachi with buttery-soft avocado, apple and sorrel. The marinated raw crab is one of the specialties, mixed in tableside with sea urchin rice for a supremely satisfying dish bursting with umami and fresh sea flavors. After the impressive parade of creative and beautiful starters, the fish course was prepared well but nothing mindblowing: a tender, whole sea bream prepared Mediterranean-style with juicy tomatoes, fennel and olives.

FLYING PIG BISTRO Western G/F, 62 High St., Sai Ying Pun, 2540-0311 Mon-Fri 11am-11pm; Sat-Sun 9am-11pm $$$

NEW REVIEW

Created by restaurateur Christopher Przemyski in collaboration with local restaurant group French Concepts (Metropolitain, Comptoir), Flying Pig Bistro delivers up a comforting menu of bistro classics with a heavy emphasis on pork. With charcoal graffiti walls and an urban-cool design punctuated with metal, wood and glass elements, this bistro is a trendy destination in Sai Ying Pun for dinner or happy hour drinks and bar snacks. While there’s more to explore than just pig on the

menu—including a fantastic quinoa salad and warm mushroom pappardelle—the pork dishes are what you should come for, with suckling pig, U.S. pork tenderloin with truffle gravy, plus a giant pork knuckle with braised sauerkraut starring on the menu. And don’t even think about skipping the pulled pork sliders: The meat is slow-cooked with Jack Daniel’s bbq sauce and is full of sweet porky flavor—it’s pulled pork heaven.

HIGH STREET CART NOODLE

NEW REVIEW

Noodles 39 High St., Sai Ying Pun 2858-2680 Daily 11am-9pm $

Cart noodles—in which you pick everything that goes in your bowl from the ingredients down to the noodles and the broth—can be forbidding for the noodle newbie. But this stylish new noodle shop on Sai Ying Pun’s ever-trendy High Street makes it easy, and serves up some great bites in the process. There’s a wealth of ingredients available to pick from on the bilingual menu here, and staff are happy to walk the clueless through the process. You choose at least three ingredients, most of which are $9, then choose your preferred noodle (also $9, with everything from flat hor fun to shaved noodles) and soup base (from clear soup to curry or even a Sichuan mala broth). All in all, noodles work out to about $40 for a big bowl. The beef brisket broth was dark and superbly rich in flavor, with a satisfyingly herby, almost medicinal

aftertaste. Ingredients were almost all of an excellent standard: A marinated onsen-style egg had just the right level of delicious, runny yolk, while the marinated pork belly was delicate and flavorful, with a Japanese ramen-style feel.

LA PALOMA

NEW

REVIEW Spanish 1/F, SoHo 189, 189 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun 2291-6161 Mon-Thu 6-10:30pm; Fri-Sat noon-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

You can have pigeon at La Paloma (which means “pigeon” in Spanish) and a whole lot more besides. Th is upstairs Spanish restaurant is chef Willy Trullas Moreno’s second Hong Kong establishment, and is a fun and colorful—not to mention generous—take on tapas. We loved everything we could pick up with our fi ngers, from the smoked salmon pastries ($22 per piece) to the bacon and cheese “air” baguettes ($17 per piece) to the crispy croquettes ($14 per piece). The savory, creamy squid ink paella ($328) was generous, the variously themed tortilla omelets (potato and onion; Iberian meats; salted cod, $50-60) were fluff y; the suckling pig ($350) a perfect balance of roasted skin and fatty meat. The desserts were too carb-y and boring. There was one that was literally just some sweet bread fi lled with nutella; and a donut-like product that wasn’t treacly enough to be the real deal, or fluff y enough to be a cake. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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MAK MING NOODLES Chinese G/F, 309 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun 2633-2368 Sun 10:30am-11pm $

NEW REVIEW

Mak’s Noodle on Wellington is well known for its excellent, tiny bowls of wonton noodles, and we hoped that this Sai Ying Pun cousin (the chefs had the same sifu) would have all of the good with none of the queues—or stingy portions. Wonton and pork dumpling noodles ($36) came simply presented and in a larger bowl than their Central cousins, which is already a plus in our book. The noodles were perfectly al dente and both wonton and dumplings were well-sized and full of fresh shrimp. What really surprised us though was the beef brisket noodles ($34). Meltin-your-mouth tender beef came in an excellent beef broth that was meaty but subtle, swimming with spices and mandarin peel for a delicate, citrus kick.

METROPOLITAIN French G/F, 46 High St., Sai Ying Pun 6271-6102 Mon-Sun 10am-11pm $$

Metropolitain is from French Creations, the group behind Pastis, Le Boudoir, F.A.B. and Saint-Germain. We decided to sample both lunch menus ($88 for two courses) and a staffrecommended dish from the à la carte: steak tartare with fries. Our first lunch was a bizarrely literal poached egg salad (whole egg to the left, greens to the right) and a deliciously creamy sole and roasted potato main. We gobbled up the second set of mushroom soup and a stewed chicken leg in red wine sauce.

PHUKETS THAI Thai G/F, 46 High St., Sai Ying Pun 2868-9672 Daily 11am-10pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Th is casual Southeast Asian joint used to be on Elgin Street, but has since moved to trendy Sai Ying Pun. Don’t be misled by the name: the specialties at Phukets Thai roam all over the map, from laksa to Vietnamese rice paper rolls to curries and satay skewers. We went berserk over the prawn head curry ($148), which was loaded with full-sized shell-on shrimps and drenched in thick, yolky yellow curry. The pad Thai ($80) with tiny dried shrimp sprinkled on top was a zesty hit, and generously portioned. Stir-fried kale ($64) and a plate of crispy chicken wings ($48) rounded out the meal: both were tasty and fi lling. We also ordered refreshing fresh coconut water—served in their glorious husks—to accompany our dishes. The space is a bit tight, with tables so close to each other it’s hard not to pick up on other diners’ conversations. Otherwise, delicious food at reasonable prices makes Phukets Thai a wonderful neighborhood haunt.

Vanimal

THAI ON HIGH Thai Kam Lun Mansion, 39-41 High St., Sai Ying Pun 2858-7380 Mon-Thu 3pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 10-2am; Sun 10am-midnight $-$$

It calls its cuisine “Thai street food” and Thai on High cooks better basic, comforting Thai style food than anywhere else we’ve been on the island. It’s simple, unfussy and unpretentious. To start, try either the light and aromatic fresh rolls filled with crunchy veg, clear noodles and a mix of succulent meat, or the warm and crispy donut-shaped prawn cakes. As for the mains, the grilled beef tenderloin salad (a steal at $98) is juicy, smothered in flavor and contains just the right spicy kick.

U-HANG

KENNEDY TOWN BISTRO DU VIN French G/F, 1D, 1 Davis St., Kennedy Town 2824-3010 Daily noon-2pm, 6-10pm $$$

Bistro du Vin fully restores our faith in classic, traditional French fare. When it’s done right, there’s just no comparison. It’s owned by the Les Amis group, which also runs Piccolo Pizzeria right next door. We particularly recommend the duck leg confit with potato wedges on the side, the slow-cooked lamb shank with tomatoes and onions, and the scrambled eggs with girolle mushrooms and chorizo.

Korean Fusion Shop 6 & 6A, 58-60 High St., Sai Ying Pun 2549-6788 Daily 11am-10:30pm $$

Korean fused with Americana has been pretty huge in the States of late. And while K-food has always been popular here, super cool-looking U-Hang has convinced us that Hong Kong needs this added twist. Our plate of beef tacos ($98)—Bulgogi-marinated slices of beef with crunchy fresh salsa, wrapped in perfectly seasoned mini soft taco shells—was a showstopper. And while our two mains—pan-fried pork belly ssam ($178) and crispy chicken with teriyaki sauce and smoked cheese ($128)—were also pretty damn good, they still have a little way to go to be on the same level as those tacos. Let’s hope that there’s more creativeness to come and it’s not just a trend copycat.

CAFÉ MALACCA Southeast Asian 2/F, Hotel Jen, 508 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui 2213-6613 Daily 6:30am-11pm $$$

EDITOR’S PICK

Café Malacca’s menu boasts many a Singaporean and Malay classic. We ordered a starter of grilled satay chicken and beef skewers ($98) to share. The skewers, served with peanut sauce and rice cakes, were a good appetizer—the meats were well marinated and the peanut sauce gave it a nice kick. For our mains we had beef rendang ($108), simmered in coconut milk and cooked with a mixture of spices, as well as Hainanese chicken rice ($118). The beef rendang was tender, not too sweet, and excellently thick. All in all, a solid meal worth a revisit.

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sparkling wine to wash down lashings of butter and cream (the more the merrier when it comes to French food, right?). The changing brunch menu currently stars a hearty roast chestnut soup and truffle scrambled eggs, but it’s also worth checking out the à la carte selection—all small plates designed to share—including seared sea bass with green peas in a fish emulsion ($88), tuna-stuffed piquillo peppers ($60) and sautéed octopus with Thai asparagus ($98).

FISH & CHICK Fish and Chips Shop 6, 25 New Praya, Kennedy Town 2974-0088 Daily noon-10pm $$$

Catch On Catchick

CATCH ON CATCHICK Seafood G/F, 93 Catchick St., Kennedy Town 28551289 Mon 6pm-midnight; Tue-Fri noon-3pm, 4pmmidnight; Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 9am-11pm $$

A ground-floor neighborhood resto with an alfresco vibe and romantic white furnishings, Catch On Catchick is one of the latest in a series of K-Town F&B invasions. The menu is relatively simple, with shared starters, salads, mains and sides taking equal space. We started with a generous calamari salad with watercress, capers and red radish. The calamari was meaty and delicious, although the salad dressing was a bit too tangy and overpowering. For mains, we ordered a seafood laksa that came in a deliciously sweet and coconut-y broth. We also sampled beer-battered fish and chips; the batter was fluff y and crispy, and didn’t overwhelm the fish. The fries were chunky and not overly greasy, although they weren’t particularly memorable either.

COMPTOIR French Tapas G/F, 42 Forbes St., Kennedy Town 2453-9873 Mon-Fri 4-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

One of the latest outlets to join French Creations’ stable of casual neighborhood bistros, Comptoir’s weekend brunch is a must-try, with four delicious courses for $200 per person, and free-flow wine for an extra $180—one of the better value brunches in the city. Well-portioned and served piping hot, the meal is best enjoyed at one of the alfresco café’s counter seats, with refreshing house

The simple but pleasing menu offers chicken, seafood baskets and—of course—several types of fish and chips. It even lists where the fish was sourced from, so you can pick anything from the local-caught seabass to European cod. We got the deep-fried cod, as well as the seabass, which we could order deep-fried with chips, or pan-fried with mashed potato. These are some of the best fish and chips we’ve had in Hong Kong. The beer batter was crunchy and not at all oily; the fish encased within was cooked to perfection. The chips were thick and hot and we drenched them in lashings of malt vinegar.

MISSY HO’S

EDITOR’S

PICK Asian Fusion Shop G9, G/F, Sincere Western House, 48 Forbes St., Kennedy Town 2817-3808 Mon-Sat 6-11pm $$

Castelo Concepts’ latest K-Town digs is a secretive “hole-in-the-wall” with a foreboding door, a dark and handsome interior and kitschy-cute vintagey fi nishes in the form of hanging birdcages and flowery wallpaper. The menu is best described as Asian fusion, with sharing plates and bar snacks on offer. The wagyu beef skewers and pork gyozas—the most recognizable dishes on the menu—were also the top dishes of the night. The kitchen accommodated our token vegetarian with a special meat-free sushi roll.

flavor retention. The ribeye ($320) was a bit fatty for some, but delectably charred and ideally cooked. The fries, black truffle mash and duck rillette sides were as tasty as they come.

WAFFLING BEANS Waffl es Shop 9, New Fortune House, 4-8 North St., Kennedy Town 2855-8890 Tue-Fri noon-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-10pm $$

Waffl ing Beans does what it says: waffles and coffee. The menu is full of delicious-looking combinations, a good selection of craft beers—try the PranQster Belgian ale ($70)—plus the coffee is excellent. A waffle came with fresh strawberries, crunchy slivers of dark chocolate and a judicious application of whipped cream—not the mountain you’d usually expect.

VANIMAL Vegetarian 150 Belcher’s St., Kennedy Town 2872-8880 Mon-Sun 6-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Vanimal, the newest addition to Kennedy Town’s stable of hip, concept-driven restos, aims to prove that vegetarian eating can be as exciting, if not more, as diving into a rack of ribs or gnawing on a char-grilled bone-in steak. The menu is Asianinspired, from the fried croquettes made with black-eyed beans on a dusting of turnip powder, to the vegetable tempura with lightly-fried lotus root, asparagus, eggplant, carrots and bell peppers meant to be dabbed on lines of green tea salt and fermented bean curd powder. The grilled French horn mushroom—sliced crosswise like a rib eye— showcases its inherent meatiness that’s enriched with a butter soy sauce, while the slow-cooked Japanese egg with cèpes and shiitakes within a ring of Jerusalem artichoke chips demonstrates the focus on contrasting textures and rhythms.

THE PIERSIDE Western G/F, Grand Fortune Mansion, 1B Davis St., Kennedy Town 2398-1838 Mon-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm $$$

Lobster and steak are the stars at this casual Davis Street joint, but there’s also a mixed bag of starters and sides, from oysters to scallops to truffle mash. It’s a colorful and cozy space, and dishes are served in skillets and on wooden boards. The grilled whole lobster with butter garlic sauce ($320) and lobster Thermidor topped with gruyère ($340) were succulent and perfectly seasoned. They were split down the middle and left in their shells, which made for easy handling and maximum

Missy Ho’s

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Admiralty, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay cooked just right: Juicy and tender, but not greasy. The egg had a perfectly just-cooked, half-runny consistency, while the curry provided just enough peppery kick to tingle the tastebuds.

CHE’S CANTONESE RESTAURANT Cantonese 4/F, The Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai 2528-1123 Daily 11am-3pm, 6-11pm $

For a dim sum place, Che’s is on the classier side—you won’t see any trolleys jam-packed with bamboo steamers being pushed here, or waitstaff running around with giant trays shouting out orders. Instead, expect cushy chairs, pleasant décor, and—well, okay, one or two harried servers. You’ll fi nd your typical dim sum staples (har gow, beef balls, char siu cheung fun, siu mai, turnip cake, radish cake and taro dumplings) as well as Che’s signatures (char siu pastries and noodle soup with fish and hundred-year-old egg). The signatures were the highlight of our meal—the char siu pastry practically melted in our mouths, and the noodle soup was rich and flavorful. 22 Ships

CHILI CLUB

WAN CHAI

BO INNOVATION Asian Molecular 2/F, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai 2850-8371 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 7pm-midnight; Sat 6pm-midnight $$$-$$$$

22 SHIPS Spanish 22 Ship St., Wan Chai 2555-0722 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships, named for its address, is a sparsely decorated tapas bar with unfi nished floors that serves small plates with a modern twist. Opting to sit at the big central counter lined with high stools turned out to be a great choice, as the chefs and their assistants can chat with you and give recommendations as they’re preparing the carefully thought-out dishes. The highlight was the Spanish breakfast, a layered concoction with potatoes, chorizo bits, mashed potatoes and a slow-cooked egg that melted perfectly.

BEEF & LIBERTY

EDITOR’S

PICK Burgers 2/F, 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai 2811-3009 Mon-Fri noon3pm, 6pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10:30pm $$

Burger joint Beef & Liberty is doing something right, and that’s the burgers. Online-only booking is a tremendous pain in the ass if you’re after an assured last-minute bite, but the irritation is soothed away as you take the lift up past Pizza Express and into this loft y, double-ceilinged space, whose floor-to-ceiling windows on either side gaze out over the less fortunately burgered. The burgers: they’re great. A bacon cheeseburger is stuffed with bacon (jam), bacon (ham), and cheddar. Juicy but not greasy, tender in a high, soft, crispy bun.

Experience some Extreme Chinese cuisine at this three Michelin-starred fi ne diner owned by “demon chef ” Alvin Leung. Expect funky textures and flavors and dishes with weird and creative names.

CATALUNYA

Thai 88 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai 2527-2872 Daily noon-3pm, 6-10pm $

Chili Club, tucked away on a first floor and overlooking local strip joints, seems an unlikely choice for simply wonderful Thai food. First impressions are not encouraging; ice-cold aircon blasts over monochrome surfaces while diners are packed in like canned sardines. But when the food arrives, you soon realize why every table is fi lled on a weekday night. The Thai beef salad was char-grilled to perfection and fiercely spicy,

Spanish G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai 2866-7900 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-4pm, 6-11pm $$$$

Catalunya is the second branch of the successful Catalunya Singapore, taking up some 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space and offering Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig, lobster rice and esqueixada (salted cod salad).

CAT’S EYE Japanese 25 Swatow St., Wan Chai 2891-8986 Daily 11:30am-3pm $

NEW REVIEW

Vaguely cat-themed, this cozy Japanese omelet rice (“omurice”) resto sees long lunch lines wrap around its storefront pretty much every day. If you get there after 1pm, don’t even think of ordering the signature hamburger steak dishes, as they’re always sold out by then. Severely hangry after a long queue, the wagyu hamburg steak omurice with curry and demi-glace ($94) hit the spot perfectly, and arrived hot within just five minutes of ordering. The wagyu steak was

Bo Innovation

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while the mains that followed only continued to affirm the restaurant’s status as our new favorite Thai restaurant. The red curry that was served in a coconut; spicy minced pork with garlic, chili and basil; and the house special—steamed fish flavored with Thai spices and lime juice—were all brought to our table still cooking. We ate until we were stuffed and washed it all down with a couple of beers. Somehow the bill still came to under $400 for two.

GIANDO Italian Shop 1, G/F, Tower 1, Starcrest, 9 Star St., Wan Chai 2511-8912 Daily noon-3pm, 6pm-late $$$$

Giando is an upscale Italian restaurant headed by former Isola chef Gianni Caprioli. Caprioli’s impressive CV includes being a private chef to the famous Agnelli family—a.k.a. the family that used to own Fiat—and a chef at London’s Four Seasons. Expect classic Italian fare with contemporary presentation, and a pleasant setting. The pastas are tasty and the pizzas delightful.

GRAND HYATT STEAKHOUSE

EDITOR’S PICK

Steakhouse M/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai 2584-7722 Mon-Sun 6-10:30pm $$$$

Th is classic American steakhouse features prime cuts of beef from the US (USDA Prime Nebraska beef), Canada (Canadian Heritage Angus beef) and Japan (Japanese Kumamoto Wagyu beef), along with a seafood and oyster bar, salad bar, wine room and beautiful private function rooms.

GRISSINI Italian 2/F, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai 2588-1234 Weekdays noon-2:30pm; Sat 6:30-10:30pm; Sun noon-2:30pm $$$$

Floor-to-ceiling windows afford a fantastic view of Tsim Sha Tsui and the delicious aromas will drive you mad as you await your meal. Freshly baked breadsticks (grissini) will tide you over as dish after gorgeous dish leaves the kitchen. Eating here is pricey, yes, but it’s hard to envisage anyone leaving feeling anything but content. The food is exceptional and the set and a la carte menu is changed seasonally to ensure variety for even the most loyal customers.

KHANA KHAZANA Indian 1/F, Dannies House, 20 Luard Rd., Wan Chai 2520-5308 Daily noon-3pm, 6-10pm

If it weren’t for the steady stream of patrons entering and exiting this unamusuming commercial building, you might miss Khana Khazana. There’s no meat here, but the heavy aroma of tikka and garlic augurs well for the veggie offerings. We pored over the think menu and settled on a mix of South Indian dishes. For starters, the vadas (fritters dipped in a spicy soup) soaked up the excellent rasam broth without falling apart, and even tasted great on their own. The chaat (assorted snacks) platter came with several combos—all completely different flavors, all delicious.

comprehensive, with dishes from all categories (cold starters, seafood, poultry, soup, rice and noodles). We really enjoyed our tender, saucesoaked stir-fried beef cubes, and also the bowl of fish noodles—as in, the strands were actually made of fish meat—swimming in a milky fish broth. The sautéed pomfret was generously portioned, with delicate thin slices that paired well with the crunchy green celery.

LE BISTRO WINEBEAST French G/F & 1/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Thomson Rd., Wan Chai 27826689, Mon-Sat noon-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

After moving to a brand new space almost quadruple the size of the old one, Winebeast retains its casual, intimate ambience and homey French food which makes it a favorite date night spot of ours. From the specials menu, we enjoyed a plump lobe of seared foie gras resting side-by-side perfectly cooked pigeon breast, wrapped in delicate puff pastry and drizzled with a truffle-infused jus—it’s like an upgraded beef Wellington and one of the best things we can remember having eaten recently. Don’t ignore the suggestions of the ebullient sommelier Cristina Ducroquet, whose vast knowledge of wines is remarkable. The best part is that each bottle is sold at retail price, without the markup.

LE BLANC KIN’S KITCHEN Cantonese 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai 2571-0913 Daily noon -3pm, 6-11pm $$

Celebrity food critic Lau Kin-wai and his son are the brains behind this Canto diner. The menu is

French 6/F, 83 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai 3428-5824 Daily 6:30pm-midnight $$$

Illuminated by fairy lights and candles, and bursting to the seams with pretty silk flowers and quirky bric-a-brac, Le Blanc is one of Wan Chai’s best-kept secrets. The two orders of foie gras arrived promptly, but while one was delicious, the other was cold. Mains were excellent—a generous angus steak cooked to perfection, and a duck confit which fell off the bone and had the perfect amount of crisp skin and fat. The star of the menu, however, were the desserts—an apple strudel with cinnamon ice cream, and a fluff y, crisp meringue with fresh berry sauce and ice cream. No corkage.

LE GARÇON SAIGON Vietnamese 12-18 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai 2455-2499 Mon-Sun 6-11pm $$$

nnovation

Grand Hyatt Steakhouse

NEW REVIEW

Another Vietnamese concept by the guys behind Chôm Chôm, Le Garçon Saigon in the Star Street Precinct specializes in Southern Vietnamese cuisine—think grilled meats and skewers. The French-Vietnamese bistro is spacious and airy, with a light décor and furnishings for that French colonial touch. The Cahn Ga (fried chicken wings) ($88) were fried to perfection. With a layer of buttery batter that’s not too thick but RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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crunchy enough, these wings were fi nger-licking good and the spicy mayo gave the flavor an extra push. Kurobuta pork skewers ($128) were also lovely—tender and flavorful, you can munch them on their own or wrap them up in rice paper with lettuce, basil and pickles. We also tried the yellow chicken ($188 for a half), which was lightly charred for a crispy exterior. The chicken was juicy and full of flavors from Southeast Asian spices. We ended with a pandan waffle ($78): Not exactly Vietnamese, but we loved the light and fluff y waffles fi lled with the unique sweetness and aroma of pandan.

MEGAN’S KITCHEN Hotpot 5/F, Lucky Centre, 165-171 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai 2866-8305 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$

With its rainbow-colored cuttlefish balls and soup base “soufflés” we felt it was all a bit gimmicky. But with our low expectations, we actually had a great time at Megan’s, which offers a novel take on the hotpot experience. You can choose up to three soup bases in their yin-yang-yin bowl, and some of the more inventive offerings include a rich crab and tomato soup topped with the aforementioned whipped egg white “soufflé,” a tom yum koong “cappuccino” or even an English oxtail broth.

MOMOJEIN Korean 23/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai 2789-1949 Tue-Sun noon-3pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Momojein is a Korean-inspired modern resto in the heart of Wan Chai, offering up fun, creative takes on traditional dishes. From the list of “small” menu items, we were recommended their

signature Kalbi Hotteok ($82), a hand-ground beef short-rib ball wrapped in a thin, pan-fried rice-flour bun. It was crispy on the outside but the meat was juicy and flavorful, and the tangy horseradish-based sauce added the perfect bite. We had the seafood and perilla seed noodles ($130) which were great: The homemade noodles held the thick sauce well with plenty of shrimp, clams and calamari to go around. For dessert we had sweet potato ($65), which included berries and chopped almonds and was cooked three ways: sugar-glazed chunks, crispy chips and mousse. Sea urchin bibimbap ($160) was served on a plate (what?!) and there really wasn’t enough of it to mix across all of the rice. The dried vegetables mixed in were also pretty tough, so we ended up picking some of it out of the rice.

O DELICE! French Shop 9, 2 Landale St., Wan Chai 2520-2311 Mon-Fri 10:30am-10:30pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10:30pm $$

A great addition to trendy Landale Street, this French casual diner came in handy when we were struck with a craving for pancakes in Wan Chai. O Delice! serves satisfying crepes and galettes, alonside a solid selection of health-conscious salad, sandwiches and pastas.

OLALA YAT WUN MIEN Noodles 2 Star St., Wan Chai 2866-3381 Daily 11am-10:30pm $-$$

Th is resto’s name translates to Olala “Bowl of Noodles,” which is exactly what it serves. For $150 a pop, you get a huge bowl of rich broth full of tender chunks of beef and a mountain of chewy

Le Garçon Saigon

noodles. (Yeah, it is pricey. But hey, imagine the rent they’re paying for premium Star Street real estate!) There’s also an array of tasty, cheaper snacks. Your surroundings defi nitely don’t match what you’re eating—framed photographs of western landmarks and posters of cheeses and wines line the walls while you’re brandishing chopsticks and slurping down noodles. Once you can get over that incongruity (and it’s not that hard) it’s easy to enjoy this rare gem.

CMY

ONE HARBOUR ROAD Chinese 7-8/F, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai 2584-7722 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; Sun 11:30am-2:30pm $$$

Set on two levels, with a lotus pond and a surrounding harbor view, One Harbour Road is a stunning setting in which to sample traditional Cantonese cuisine, including a great dim sum menu. Proud to have “no foreign influences” and “no nouvelle nuances,” the restaurant serves dishes including stir-fried diced wagyu beef with vegetables in a crispy basket.

PADANG INDONESIA RESTAURANT

NEW REVIEW

Indonesian Shop 1-2, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St., Wan Chai 2881-6075 Daily 11am-11pm $

One Harbour Road

Padang has been around forever, and it’s one of those restaurants that will continue to exist because it doesn’t try to do anything other than serve no-frills food at no-frills prices. Cantofied Indonesian dishes make up the menu, and there’s a colorful snacks and desserts counter out front.

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Nothing is “wow” at Padang—but then again, you don’t come here expecting to be blown away. The mie goreng ($95) came with a weird blotch of pickled vegetables on the side, but the thick noodles themselves were full of wok hei—smoky and flavorful. The nasi campur ($86) came with lots of tasty goodies, from cured fish to curried vegetables to beef rendang. We should’ve known better than to order the mixed vegetables ($105), which were basically a greasy medley of chop suey bits and pieces. And despite Padang’s firm stance on being your average shopping mall restaurant, the interior errs on the gloomy and slightly depressing side. We’ve had better Indonesian in Hong Kong, but that hasn’t stopped us from going back to Padang time and time again.

PAPILLON CAFFE Papillon Caffe

Cafe Shop 1701-1705, 17/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai 2527-9282 Daily 7:30am-9:30pm $

Th is all-day cafe in the Hopewell Centre has a homey, family-friendly vibe. The semi-circular space comes with faux brick walls, a rainbowcolored ceiling, cute dollhouse chairs and a coffee and snacks station displaying the pastries of the day. Papillon Caffe errs on the safe side: if you’re looking for breakfast and brunch faves, you won’t be disappointed. While by no means spectacular, the Deluxe Breakfast ($108) was hearty and satisfying. Portion sizes were quite generous, but we saved room for our strawberry waffle dessert ($58), which came crispy on the outside and fluff y within.

PIRATA The Grand Butffet

Italian 29-30/F, 239 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai 2887-0270 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6:30-11pm $$-$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

Pirata has dropped anchor on the shores of Wan Chai, and it’s one badass ship indeed. The two-story space consists of a top floor bar and an industrial-chic room complete with faux chandeliers and brushed concrete floors. There are plenty of treasures to be plundered at Pirata, from a bloody delicious Butcher’s Cut flank steak ($330) to a very shareable thick cut of bistecca alla Fiorentina ($750). The saucy beef ragu agnolotti ($95-150), paper-thin red prawn tagliatelle ($210) and duck ragu pappardelle ($95-150) were all rich in aroma and flavor.

QI HOUSE OF SICHUAN Sichuan 2/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai 2527-7117 Mon-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Pirata

One thing that sets this resto apart is that it’s not wholeheartedly Sichuan—the menu covers everything from the standard mala dishes to sweet and sour fi sh and even Kung Pao chicken.

We recommend coming with a group to share the generously sized dishes, most of which are meant for sharing. Highlights of our night included the massive bowl of braised beef with Napa cabbage in a refi ned, not-too-heady yet flavorful roasted chili bath; and dan dan noodles in a wonderfully fragrant peanut chili broth.

RESTAURANT AKRAME French G/F, 9 Ship St., Wan Chai 2528-5068 Daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$-$$$$

Restaurant Akrame on Ship Street is headed by chef Akrame Benallal, of the rave-reviewed, twoMichelin-starred Akrame in Paris. Th is restaurant is a real departure from your stereotypical French fi ne-diner, with their grand, high-ceilinged venues and dangling chandeliers. There was no indication of what we’d be served—that’s how the game is played at Akrame. A chopped lobster and avocado starter was tasty, if a bit predictable (foam on top, ceviche-like). For the main, we were served a pigeon and chickpea combo. We’re not big fans of game to begin with, but the bird was expertly cooked with super-tender meat.

SABAH MALAYSIAN CUISINE Singapore/Malaysia G/F, 98-108 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai 2143-6626 Daily 7:30am-midnight $$

Th is long-time establishment has been serving a mix of Malaysian and Singaporean dishes for 12 years. Sabah Malaysian Cuisine promised a fi lling and reasonably priced meal. We were obssessed with the Hokkien mee ($78), a Singaporean dish with fried noodles and a thick soy sauce. Each and every noodle was coated with the special sauce, giving it a unique sweet and salty flavor. The noodles were also perfectly tender, adding to our satisfaction. The chicken makhani ($128) was soft , buttery and packed full of flavor. Beef and chicken skewers ($66) were slightly overcooked, but the punchy satay sauce made them enjoyable. A solid option if you’re after good vibes, generous portions and reasonable prices.

SAWALI CLUB Thai 2/F, Wing Cheong Building, 18-20 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai 2811-2360 Daily 11:30am-10:30pm $$

Sawali Club might not have the most authentic, feisty Thai dishes in town, but its cheap and cheerful atmosphere, gracious servers and affordably delectable offerings combine to give diners a distinctly memorable experience. The menu includes the usual suspects, as well as signature dishes such as roast chicken and several daily specials. The deep-fried soft shell crab was a thing of beauty, with fresh crabmeat balanced out by crispy basil leaves, lemongrass and crunchy cashew pieces. Call ahead to book.

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SERGE ET LE PHOQUE Modern European G/F Tower 1, The Zenith, 3 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai 5465-2000 Daily 6:30-midnight $$$

EDITOR’S PICK

This is a restaurant backed by hotshot restaurateurs and chefs from Paris’s top establishments (Le Chateaubriand and La Bigarrade, to be precise). The pork belly with delicately crispy skin was generously portioned, and we liked the contrasting textures of the unexpected cloud ear fungus and the caramelized onions alongside. But our flame-kissed calamari dish, paired with separated Brussels sprout leaves, was the clear winner. We dipped the curlicued pieces into the karashi miso on the side, and it was a feisty match.

SEVENTH SON Cantonese 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai 2892-2888 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

Owned by a disgruntled Fook Lam Moon sibling who decided to branch out on his own, Seventh Son is a glorious tycoon’s diner, set in a spacious, three-story venue. The meal began with a platter of half a chicken served with a scallion and oil dip, split right down the middle. It was a modestly sized bird, but the meat was tender, the skin had the right amount of fat, and the dip had a slick, savory touch. We also had a smoked eel dipped in honey. The meat underneath the sweet, thinly glazed surface was deliciously firm to the bite.

Stone Nullah Tavern

chicken. Both are worth multiple visits. The foie burger topped with caramelized onions came recommended, and we enjoyed every bite.

THAI HUT Thai Shop 3, G/F, 87-91 Luard Rd., Wan Chai 2866-8528 Daily noon-6am $

SPOIL CAFE Italian GF, 1 Sun St., Wan Chai 3589-5678 Mon-Sat noon-10pm $$$

Spoil is apparently best known for its desserts. At least that’s the oﬃcial source of its gently chiding name. But what we enjoyed more than anything was having our own solitary, spacious picnic table outside. As for the dishes, the avocado and mango salad with prawn, mushroom risotto with foie gras, rigatoni with pancetta ham, and pork chop all went down well with an interesting Chenin Blanc from China (stop sneering). For the muchhyped dessert we shared a four-layered slice of carrot cake—good in its own right, but far from the highlight of the evening.

STONE NULLAH TAVERN American G/F, 69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai 3182-0128 Daily noon-1am $$$

EDITOR’S PICK

Located in a historic part of Wan Chai (next to the Blue House), the dimly lit country farm-inspired tavern décor is the perfect place to hang out and look trendy. The hearty mac and cheese is made with sharp cheddar and topped with egg yolk. The Texas-style “chicken fried” steak is tenderized beef cooked in the same manner as Southern fried

NEW REVIEW

Thai Hut is a Luard Road institution, serving hungry bar-goers and snack-cravers unforgivingly traditional (read: spicy) dishes. Everything on the menu looks tantalizing, so it was a while before we narrowed down our choices to a chicken khao phad kaprao ($55, stir-fried meat with chili and basil, accompanied by egg-topped steamed rice) and a beef guey tiew ($55, stir-fried rice noodles). Both dishes were a gloriously greasy affair. The basil chicken was intensely savory and peppered with fresh chilies: nothing could’ve matched a bowl of steamed rice better. We also enjoyed our fish and shrimp cakes on the side. The chefs are very heavy-handed with their seasoning, so you’ll be dying for a drink by the end of your meal. We were so parched we had to down a whole box of coconut water just to keep up. You can’t get more gritty and greasily delicious than Thai Hut.

THE GRAND BUFFET Buffet 62/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai 2506-0888 Mon-Thu noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sun 11:30am-3pm, 6-10pm $$$

The Lisboa-Group-owned restaurant is where View 62 used to be, at the massive revolving structure on top of Hopewell Centre. There are

carving stations for roast meats, tempura stations for deep-frying prawns and other creatures, dessert stations piled high with ice-cream, puddings, chocolate fountains and whatever else fits… the list goes on. Prices start at $278 per adult for lunch and $668 for dinner.

THE PAWN

NEW

REVIEW British 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai 2866-3444 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm; Sat noon-3:30pm, 6:30-10pm; Sun 11am-4:30pm, 6:30-10pm $$$

The revamp of The Pawn caused a bit of a storm, but does the new look and fancified menu hold up? The French-influenced starters and desserts were essentially food porn: the confit salmon starter ($150) was art on a plate, beautifully arranged with grapefruit served every which way—in ravioli, cubed, pureed, powdered—and all decorated with pretty petals. We’re glad we plumped for the Baked Alaska ($140): a tableside flambé provided a spectacle that matched the flavors of the fruity, boozesoaked sponge and the sweet, chewy meringue. The design changes to the upstairs dining room are subtle and inoffensive, but the bar area really took a turn for the worse when it went all Pottery Barn. The seemingly inventive duck Bolognese pie ($225) turned out to be a disappointingly bland shepherd’s pie-style dish with mash that disguised the duck entirely. The special—duck fi llet with mango ($195)—was slightly overdone and a bit dry. A pleasant experience, but boring mains don’t stack up next to well-executed starters and desserts. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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menu, we couldn’t resist ordering the mizuna leaf with seafood ($150) which looked lovely on the menu. While we did get a lot of diced sashimi and crawfish in the pre-tossed salad, the topping of ikura roe tasted like it had been flown in two days ago. The greens didn’t hold the sauce very well, but without the sauce or the seafood they were bland and dry. While it’s a little on the expensive side, good service and food and a lot of skill with the grill make Youka worth the trip.

ADMIRALTY AMMO Mediterranean/Tapas 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty 2537-9888 Sun-Thu noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-midnight $$$

Ammo is owned by prolific restaurateur Tony Cheng (who’s also behind The Drawing Room, Le Salon and Hainan Shaoye). The menu is firmly starters, tapas and pasta—you want something else, tough luck.

BRICK LANE Verde Mar

VERDE MAR

NEW REVIEW

Mexican G/F, 24 Tai Wong St. East, Wan Chai 2810-0888 Weekdays noon-3pm; Sat noon-10:30pm; Sun 10am-10pm $$

Following the success of Mr. Taco Truck, Vivian Wong brings her passion for Mexican cuisine (and highly lauded homemade tortilla chips) to Wan Chai’s bustling food scene, delivering a hit of south-of-the-border flavors. Decorated like a “Mexican village courtyard,” Verde Mar’s bright, splashy colors and fairy lights drew us in immediately—as did the addictive basket of hot and crunchy fresh tortilla chips ($58 per order, but expect to refi ll several times). The Oaxaca cheese fundido ($148) was the perfect melty, gooey mess, still bubbling away in its cast-iron skillet, while the whole chargrilled chicken ($298) was one of the best we’ve had in Hong Kong, supremely juicy with a spicy, smoky rub.

WING KEE Cantonese Shop 4, Bowrington Rd. Cooked Food Center, 21 Bowrington Rd., Wan Chai; Daily 6pm-2am $

NEW REVIEW

Bowrington Road Cooked Food Center is one of the best of its kind in Hong Kong: pink plastic on all the tables covered with great, cheap food. We rocked up in a large group and ordered until our waitress said we’d ordered too much, and then we ordered some more. Zhenjiang spare ribs ($78)

were tender, sweet and tart, and immediately scarfed up by the first three people who could get their hands on them at the table. Ma po tofu ($48) was prepared Cantonese-style, well-cooked but not spicy. Claypot-cooked gai laan ($50) was tender and crunchy, and the deep-fried crispy chicken ($108 for a half-chicken) was some of the best we’ve had in Hong Kong–beautifully crisp on the outside, but juicy and tender inside. It only needed one thing: to be washed down with plentiful bottles of beer.

YOUKA Japanese Shop 1D, 35-45 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai 2833-5188 Daily noon-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$

NEW REVIEW

Youka, which translates to “Eighth Day,” is a Japanese resto all about sashimi and grill. We shared the chef’s menu ($438) which was fi lled with well-executed dishes. The grilled dried blowfish was a sweet fish jerky with a smoky touch, and didn’t need the provided dip. Sashimi from the set included super fatty tuna belly that melted instantly in our mouths. Of the three grilled items, we picked grilled US beef with ponzu sauce—a steak that was amazingly tender and juicy with a pink middle despite its 1cm thickness. Shrimp tempura was the star of the assorted tempura dish, fried from a fresh sashimi-grade shrimp. Apart from the chef’s

British 4/F, Citic Tower, 1 Tim Mei Avenue, Admiralty 2363-2500 Mon-Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 11am-11pm $$

Brick Lane is replicating its successful self across the harbor with a sweeping space in Admiralty. Named after the same trendy street in London, BL serves quintessentially English breakfasts and artisanal coffees as well as comfort foods including shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and bangers and mash. There’s also a brief nod to Brick Lane’s Indian influence, with Kerala chicken curry on the menu.

FLINT GRILL & BAR Western 5/F, JW Marriott Hotel, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 2810-8366 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

The chefs here fire up a nightly storm in this gorgeously appointed open kitchen. Nebraska steaks, bone-in; fennel seed-crusted Berkshire black pork chop; house-cured salmon; Boston lobster, baked Thermidor-style… it’s extreme surf ’n’ turf at this latest addition to the hotel’s ambitious repertoire.

KOKOMI Japanese Shop 002, LG/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 2386-1255 Daily 11:30am-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Roka is no more, but in its place is Kokomi by the Maxim’s group. The space is posh and modern, giving off the same vibes as sister restaurant Kikusan at the Landmark. You can’t go wrong

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with miso cod, and the one at Kokomi is no exception: the fish was creamy, sweet and umami all at once. The salt grilled chicken wings were more peppery than savory, but just as juicy and delicious. We also liked the cold tofu with crispy potato shavings on top, which was a creative play on textural contrasts. The milky and refreshing coconut pudding (think Asian crème brulee) with pineapple ice cream was all sorts of yum.

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB Steakhouse Shop 201, 2/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty 2907-2218 Daily 11:30am-3pm; 6-11pm $$$

There are many options on the menu for this Californian steak brand, but most people opt for the signature Lawry’s cut: roughly from the rib to shortloin. Each slice was surrounded by an outer layer of fat, getting lean and mean towards the middle. Our slice was the perfect balance of juiciness and meatiness—but no matter what your preference, you’ll find something on that trolley to cater to your palate.

LOBSTER BAR AND GRILL

EDITOR’S PICK

Seafood 6/F, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 2820-8560 Daily noon-3pm $$$$

The swanky interior features two large saltwater tanks inhabited by colorful fish. There’s a long mahogany bar leading to the blue-hued dining room, where a jazz band riffs away. It’s all very chic, the food is flawless, the staff well-versed and

the music good. Lobster Bar and Grill is a bit of a classic, and hard to complain about.

CAUSEWAY BAY AGNÈS B. LE PAIN GRILLÉ

THAI BASIL Thai Shop 001, B/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 2537-4682 Daily 11:30am-11pm $$-$$$

This Maxim’s Group establishment is one of Pacific Place’s mainstays, and on any given night you’ll find it filled with patrons. The basement venue is amicably commual, straddling that very fine line between buzzing and downright noisy. The space is nicely laid out, and great for a casual meal before the movies. The grilled sliced beef curry ($118) was, although much milder than any Thai curry you’ll ever find in Bangkok, appropriately smoky and juicy. Thai fish cakes ($80)—again, more of a Hong Kong creation than a Thai staple—were delightfully meaty and crispy on the outside. Go with the right expectations, and a value-for-money meal will be had.

YE SHANGHAI Shanghainese Shop 332, 3/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty 2918-9833 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm $$$

This local stalwart is all about old-school Shanghai refinery and excellent, traditional cuisine. Diners also flock here for the xiaolongbao dumplings, which are not to be missed, with thin wrappers and juicy interiors. Chef’s specials include the sauteed bean jelly with river shrimps and fresh water crab meat as well as the hairy crab.

French G/F, 111 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay 2577-2718 Daily 10am-10pm $$-$$$$

Contrasting with the bright lights and white walls of the Agnès B travel concept store, Le Pain Grillé aims for a homey vibe, with a dark wood décor, low ceilings and small chairs. While the drinks menu offered a wide variety of wines and hot drinks, the food menu was more limited with four or five main courses on offer, most of them seafood or duck. But the servers are knowledgeable and patient. At the end of our meal, we couldn’t resist the tasty cakes and tarts in the pastry booth.

AN NAM Vietnamese 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay 2787-3922 Daily 11:30am-11:30pm $$-$$$

An Nam isn’t your usual Vietnamese pho joint, if its Lee Gardens location is any indication. The beautiful space is divided into different dining areas, all with dark wood and teak motifs. The usual suspects are on offer, but there are also more surprising dishes from the Central Vietnamese city of Hue. All of our dishes were fantastic, from the light and gooey rice flan snacks that reminded us of Chinese cheung fun, to the bright, crispy pancake ($118) filled with giant prawns, bean sprouts and sprinklings of pork.

CHIBEE CHICKEN AND BEER

NEW REVIEW

Korean 7/F, Circle Plaza, 499 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay 2838-5777 Daily 5pm-3am $$

An Nam

Fried chicken of all kinds is still the “it” food of the mo, and the Korean variety is leading the way. Enter Chibee, brought to you by one of the guys behind the Three Monkeys group. This KFC joint serves the poultry in numerous different flavors, mostly deep-fried. The spring onion chicken ($178), which consisted of a massive portion of deep-fried, bone-in goodness literally topped with a bush of spring onion. The meat was juicy, the batter was dry and crisp, and the whole dish paired wonderfully with the wasabi-flavored sauce we were given. We just couldn’t have enough. There were also pickled veggies and a salad to balance things out. The smoky, creamy Chibee instant noodles ($65) accompanied with spam were another hit. The ham and cheese toast ($65) was touted as a crowd-pleaser that always sells out, but when we received our order we were not impressed. The rolled-up sandwiches looked awesome, but tasted rather pedestrian: neither the cheese nor ham was memorable in flavor.

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MAIZURU

NEW

REVIEW Japanese 26/F, Jardine’s Center, 10 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 2586-3038 Daily noon-3pm $$-$$$$

After gaining a loyal following at a tiny restaurant in Tin Hau, chef Andy Lee has brought his expert sushi skills to this brand new spot in Causeway Bay, serving affordable lunch sets and omakase-style dinners. The lunch set is a steal at $220 for 8 pieces and $286 for 12, and we liked being able to choose our fi sh off the rotating daily menu instead of leaving it to the chef in typical omakase fashion. Dinner is pricier, however. Like any good sushi restaurant in Hong Kong, the fi sh is imported direct from Japan daily, and we found the quality to be excellent. Standouts included the fresh scallop— supple and sweet—and the seared tuna belly, luxuriously coating our mouths in fatty, melting oils. The salmon roe was also incredibly fresh, the jeweled orbs popping with little bursts of briny oceanic flavor. Gonpachi

GONPACHI

EDITOR’S PICK

JADE GARDEN

Japanese The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay 2787-3688 Sun-Thu 11:30-11:30pm; Fri-Sat 11:30-midnight $$$

Chinese 1/F, Causeway Bay Plaza 2, 463-483 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay 2573-9339 Daily 7:30am-4pm, 6-11:30pm $$$

The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in “Kill Bill” has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. We started with a cold and fi rm homemade tofu paired with bonito flakes and soy sauce, which whet our appetites for the charcoal grill, where we sampled skewers of rubbery smoked cheese (think of a Japanese version of halloumi), pork neck topped with garlic chips, tender wagyu beef, crispy chicken wings, and sweet corn—all juicy and expertly seasoned.

Jade Garden serves up Chinese specialty dishes such as Peking duck, beggar’s chicken and bird’s nest soup with crabmeat. It focuses on celebration dishes such as a chicken split down the middle and stuffed with premium dried scallops, abalone and mushrooms. Start with the traditional claypot soup made with long-stemmed mushrooms, pork and fish stock—it’s very light, and the flavor subtle.

HOTPOT INSTINCT Hotpot 6/F, The L. Square, 459-461 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay 2573-2844 Daily 6pm-3am $-$$

NEW REVIEW

Th is place is pretty easy to fi nd, right on the corner of Tang Lung. Its walls are lined with tanks of delicious-looking sea creatures, ready for the boiling broth. Inside, the décor is contemporary Chinese. You can choose from a wide variety of 18 different soup stocks, including drunken chicken, Cantonese apple, Japanese sake and flower crab, Chiuchow pepper and pig’s stomach, Malaysian satay, and of course spicy Sichuan-style. The list of ingredients is just as eclectic: prawns marinated in sweet rice wine, fried soybean skins and shrimp balls stuffed with cheese. Expect a hearty, warming meal with plenty for meat-eaters and vegetarians.

KOZY OKONOMI-YAKI TEPPAN-YAKI

NEW REVIEW

Japanese 9/F, 499 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay 2591-1281 Mon-Sat 6pm-3am $$

Hidden away in a Causeway Bay commercial center, this teppanyaki spot has been quietly making a name for itself. Okonomiyaki is what you come here for—make sure you sit up by the open griddle so you can watch the chefs at work. The spring onion version ($78) was fragrant, light and deliciously cheesy. But the star of the night had to be the fi llet steak ($290): the chef cooked off some garlic and dribbled the juices over the meat as it cooked. It was served on toast which, once we’d fi nished the tender-as-you-like beef, was re-grilled with slathers of cheese and then drizzled in a sweet tomato sauce. The ox tongue cubes ($58) were delicious and spongy in texture, with a punchy yuzu pepper sauce, but a tad oversalted. Space out your ordering so you can linger longer over your dinner.

MEKIKI NO GINJI Japanese Shop P502, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd. Causeway Bay 2895-0885 Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $-$$

Mekiki no Ginji is an Okinawa import that’s all about casual Japanese dishes and friendly prices at this bright space in Causeway Bay. We went straight for the lunch sets and fell in love with the udon with chicken balls in milky chicken broth ($68). The noodles were smooth and fi rm and went extremely well with the dense chicken meat and savory soup. The beef and egg rice ($48) was another good combo, coming with plenty of thin beef slices and a bold dose of onions.

NORTHERN DUMPLING YUAN Dumplings Shop B, G/F, 401-403 Lockhart Rd, Causeway Bay 3488-6110 Mon-Sun 11am-10pm $

Th is unassuming joint is often said to have some of the best dumplings in the city. Dumplings come in portions of five or 10 and are served steamed, fried or in broth. The biggest seller is the pork and leek ($29 for five). When fried the crunchy, salty skin really complemented the strong taste of leek. The one vegetarian option ($26 for five) held its own with discernable shreds of cabbage, leek and mushroom. Come hungry— the dumplings are large, weighty and plentiful.

PRIMAL CUT

NEW

REVIEW Steakhouse 8/F, 38 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay 2618-3122 Daily noon-late $$$

Primal Cut toes a fi ne line between traditional steakhouse and upscale sports bar, with impressive kitchen credentials from chef

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Tony Wong (Robuchon au Dôme and the Grand Hyatt). The menu hits the mark in terms of flavor and execution, although heavily reliant on the use of truffle—we counted nine dishes in total featuring it. Beef carpaccio “primal cut” style ($228) was a tasty starter, with fresh arugula crowning a delicate Japanese onsen egg, parmesan shavings and white truffle oil (they were out of black truffle oil, but gave us a discount on the bill). Our linguine was a touch undercooked, but came with beautifully cooked seafood ($258), doused in a luscious truffle cream sauce. The prime wagyu rib-eye ($428 for 250g) was juicy and jam-packed with flavor, albeit pricey given the minimal sides.

SEASONS BY OLIVIER E. French Shop 308, 3/F, Lee Gardens Two, 2-38 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay 2505-6228 Daily noon-2:30pm, 3-10:30pm $$$-$$$$

Chef Olivier Elzer, formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, now has his own brand in a sprawling space at Lee Gardens Two. At Seasons a glorious open kitchen shows rows of cooks hard at work, following speedy orders from big boss Olivier. We went for a three-course lunch at $318 per head and our favourites were an exotically spiced obsiblue prawn with black Venere rice that was creamy yet light all at once; and the homemade pumpkin gnocchi with herby, tender meatballs. Other winners were a Provencal-style beef stew and a soft-boiled egg with foamy spinach and crispy parmesan chips. Fancy food without us needing to dress up for it? Sold.

SHIKI ZEN

NEW

REVIEW Japanese 29/F, Midtown Soundview Plaza II, 1-29 Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay 2970-3218 Mon-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$

Shiki Zen specializes in handmade udon, producing it fresh in-house everyday with imported Japanese ingredients, including the flour, sea salt and water used. There are nine types of handmade udon on the lunch menu, with premium toppings ranging from Kagoshima pork to wagyu beef shabu shabu and mentaiko with onsen egg. We opted for the snow crabmeat and egg soup ($148) with Sanuki-style noodles. Although one of the lighter udon options, it was still hearty and filling, with a generous amount of sweet snow crab, onion slices and beaten eggs swimming in a slow-simmered fish base soup. The udon noodles themselves were fantastic—supple yet firm, with an al dente texture holding up well against the steaming hot broth. For our tempura udon ($148), we went for the recommended thinner-cut Kyoto-style noodles. Soft yet sturdy, the long noodles were satisfying served cold with a soy-based dipping sauce, accompanied by lightly fried prawn and vegetable tempura on the side. Stick with the udon—it’s what they do best.

SHIRO Japanese Shop 1301, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay 2155-8066 Daily 11:30am-11pm $$

EDITOR’S PICK

Located high up in Hysan Place, Aqua Group’s Shiro does conveyor belt sushi with a touch of class. The airy venue boasts an incredible view of Causeway Bay through its floor-to-ceiling windows. For once sitting at the bar didn’t feel cramped and claustrophobic, unlike most other conveyor sushi joints. We tried the egg and eel roll topped with seared salmon ($35)—and immediately wanted more. Fish is extremely fresh here, and we were pleased to see that more conventional nigiri went for an awesome $15 for two pieces. Our order of ox tongue skewers ($78) came with four large hunks of lovely marbled, juicy meat. Watch out for the crazier dishes. A signature was a large maki, with your choice of filling, rolled in black caviar ($55), but ours arrived as a hefty rice ball with a stringy piece of uni inside. A great spot to grab a bite, if you stick with the basics.

SUPERGIANT Spanish 3/F, Mira Moon, 288 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay 2643-8875 Daily 6:30am-midnight $$$

A hip little eatery in the whimsically appointed Mira Moon hotel, Supergiant has a lot going for it: cool décor from Marcel Wanders, an outdoor terrace, and a half-off happy hour that lasts from 4pm to close. The food was great overall—our favorites were the traditional Northern Spain green peppers sauteed with seasalt ($75) and the suckling pig ($165), a showstopper with meaty, slow-cooked pieces complemented by fresh applesauce.

UNDER BRIDGE SPICY CRAB Chinese/Seafood 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Causeway Bay 2573-7698 Daily noon-5pm $$$

It might be more a tourists’ stop than a local haunt, but Under Bridge still serves some damn fine seafood. Once we settled in at one of their no-frills tables, we wasted no time in ordering the signature Under Bridge Spicy Crab and when the bright red, large-clawed crustacean came to our table drenched in deep-fried garlic chips, we grabbed those crab crackers and started working on the shells in no time. We also had an order of the juicy steamed razor clams (topped with steamed garlic), which were deliciously plump and chewy and perfectly balanced with the soy sauce and rice vermicelli.

YAU SUM Sichuan 10/F, Jardine Center, 50 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay 2567-9808 Daily noon-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

You might recognize the glowing yellow sign for Sadness Sour Spicy Noodles, a cheap and cheerful (despite the name) Sichuan noodle shop with a dozen branches citywide. This outlet hidden away in a Causeway Bay commercial center is the more upscale arm of the brand. You can’t really go wrong with mouth-watering chicken ($88), though we got a few too many wing tip pieces. Fried prawns with Chongqing chilies ($158) was covered completely in chilies and sprinkled with cashews. The prawns were fried well enough to eat with the shell on (but took a bit of digging to find), and the chilies served their purpose, delivering a tingly but not overbearing spice. Stir-fried green beans ($78) were a hit, with plump, crunchy greens that ended with a salty kick—great to curb the chili sweats throughout the meal.

Supergiant

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ZONE E Tai Hang, Happy Valley, Island East

Jules Bistro

HAPPY VALLEY AMIGO RESTAURANT French Amigo Mansion, 79A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley 2577-2202 Daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight $$$$

A fine-dining restaurant that counts tycoons and government bigwigs among its regulars, the decades-old Amigo Restaurant is hidden in a historic Spanish-style mansion. It’s all about the experience, and we definitely felt like royals for two hours. A team of tuxedoed waiters led us to our tables: They were attentive and goodhumored, providing some great laughs. There’s usually a live band, but we visited on Wednesday, which is their day off. Amigo’s is a legendary restaurant that’s worth visiting for a celebratory occasion at least once.

JULES BISTRO French King-Inn Mansion, 13-15 Yik Tam St., Happy Valley 2838-1115 Tue-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm; Mon 6:30-10:30pm $$-$$$

This cute bistro looks like it’s been plucked straight from the French mountains, with as

much attention to detail and authenticity going into the food as the décor. There’s also a deli here where you can pick up your cheese and charcuterie. Cochon (pig) is big on the menu: the homemade terrine ($78) was well-balanced, with visible rounds of meat. The Saucisse Aligot ($158) was typical of southern France—the sausages imported from Aveyron were made from quality hand-cut pork instead of mince, and the aligot (mash) was rich with cheese and garlic. Leave space for the baked, oozy St. Marcelin cheese ($138, a daily-rotating special) to finish. A cozy spot to settle down with warming, feel-good fare and let yourself be transported to France for a few hours.

NAN TEI Yakitori 10 Yuen Yuen St., Happy Valley 3118-2500 Mon-Sat 6pm-2am; Sun 5-11pm $$

Happy Valley is a happening spot for meat on sticks. There are a number of yakitori and robatayaki joints sprouting up around the hood, but Nan Tei stands out with premium cuts of meat and unusual combinations. While the usual yakitori suspects are good here—beef tenderloin, chicken, lamb—the more adventurous dishes such as chicken-stuffed mushrooms, and foie

gras and ginkgo nuts mixed with udon are the real standouts. Try the cheesy chicken wings. The service was also polite and helpful, although the restaurant is perhaps a little tight for space. Nan Tei is a standout in Happy Valley’s mini yakitori scene. It’s a great, shockingly affordable place for a hot meat injection if you’re in the area.

SAINT-GERMAIN French 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley 2836-6131 Daily noon-midnight $$

EDITOR’S PICK

Saint-Germain was opened by the same folks behind heavy-hitter Pastis on Wyndham Street, and is just as full of Parisian charm as its sister outlet. The menu here is simple but sufficient: you get your brief list of cold and hot entrees, mains and desserts, with each section full of its own gems. We’re still salivating at the thought of their vanilla ice cream profiteroles and impossibly fluffy traditional apple tart pastries, but the crispy frites were just as awesome, as was the slipperysmooth and irresistibly fragrant truffle ravioli stuffed with cheese.

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TAI HANG, HAPPY VALLEY, ISLAND EAST

NORTH POINT CHINA KITCHEN Chinese Fusion 7-9 Kam Ping St., North Point 8208-8809 Daily 11am-3am $$

Th is North Point restaurant has been attracting visitors left , right and center since its opening. Although unimaginatively named, China Kitchen serves a combination of Beijing, Sichuan and Shanghai cuisine—think dumplings, whole fi sh slow-cooked in soup as well as beef noodles. The interior might be garish and even on the verge of tacky—but rest assured that the food is so good, it’s well worth putting up with the décor.

CRYSTAL THAI RESTAURANT

NEW REVIEW

Thai Shop B, 116-122 Tsat Tsz Mui Rd., North Point 2561-7288 Daily 11:30am-11pm $

Helmed by two Thai chefs, this popular local restaurant was recommended to us as one of the 15 places selected by the Thai government for its authentic cuisine. The tom yum soup ($118) was satisfying, perfectly balancing the rich shrimp soup base and the strong spices. We were told that the chefs boil the soup every morning with shrimp heads and shells, and the friendly staff advised us to pair it with white rice for a satisfying combo. We couldn’t stop eating the sour and spicy minced pork ($58), served with a basket of lettuce, and we appreciated that the meat was on the fattier side. On the miss side, the pad Thai ($72) was sweeter than usual, which overwhelmed the other flavors. The sticky rice with mango ($45) lacked enough coconut cream, and the rice was too hard and salty for our liking. Thai food fanatics will appreciate the long list of staples at this low-key restaurant. And we can’t recommend the tom yum soup highly enough.

FUNG SHING RESTAURANT

THE BIG BITE

Shun Tak G-1/F, Goldﬁ eld Mansion, 62-68 Java Rd., North Point 2578-4898 Daily 9am-3pm, 6-11pm $

PICK Canadian G/F, Shop 4B, Kar Fu Building, 196-202 Java Rd., North Point 2327-3263 Daily noon-11pm $

It’s rather difficult to fi nd a good restaurant that serves traditional Shun Tak cuisine—which is known for its meticulousness—but Fung Shing Restaurant doesn’t disappoint. One important note: there are quite a number of Fung Shing Restaurants in the city, but only the ones in North Point and Mong Kok are run by disciples of the original boss, Fung Moon. The first Fung Shing (in CWB—now closed) was opened by Fung more than 50 years ago, and he opened two more branches in the 70s and 80s. However, the name was never properly trademarked and now Hsin Kuang group freely uses the Fung Shing label for its own chain of restaurants.

THAI SOM TUM Thai 2/F, Shop C1, Electric Road Municipal Services Building, 229 Electric Rd., North Point 3622-1795 Tue-Fri noon-3pm; Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm $

The residents of this neighborhood have long known that THIS is the place to go if you want some tasty Thai food. We ordered fried thousand-year-old eggs as a starter. It is not for everyone, but you will like this dish if you can accept the eggs’ peculiar flavor and jelly-like texture, mixed with crunchy crumbs and minced shrimp. The morning glory with belachan that came next was a pleasant surprise. In other Thai restaurants, it’s common that the morning glory turns a dark color because of the shrimp sauce. Here, the vegetables managed to stay green and fresh.

EDITOR’S

We unwittingly turned up on $3 Buffalo Wing Tuesday, with every table packed with expats and locals alike going wrist-deep into six varieties of spicy—from “wuss” to “homicide.” But we’d made the trip to sample the burgers we’d heard so much about, and they didn’t disappoint.

TUNG PO SEAFOOD Seafood 2/F, Java Road Municipal Services Building, 99 Java Rd., North Point 2880-5224 Daily 5:30pm-12:30am $$

When celeb chef Anthony Bourdain visited this joint in 2007, he catapulted it to stardom. But does this rough-and-ready cacophony of packed tables in a cooked food center still live up to the hype? Deep-fried pork ribs with salt and chili was crispy, and the off-the-bone pork was juicy with a layer of soft fat. We scooped it all up. Deep-fried shrimp with garlic was flavored with handfuls of garlic crisps, but could have done with a splash of sauce. Bring a big group and order as many dishes as possible.

QUARRY BAY FEAST Western 1/F, East Hotel, 29 Taikoo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay 3968-3777 Daily 6:30am-10:30pm $$

Th is spacious venue, with a mile-long hall that seems to stretch forever, is a feast first and

DARRIE GO! NOODLES Chinese G/F, Wah Hoi Mansion, 256 Electric Rd., North Point 2578-2808 Daily noon-10pm $$$$

Head to this cheap-and-cheerful Cantonese diner for MSG-free, high-quality soups, handmade noodles and creative dim sum. The dim sum set for two—$218 for two noodles, nine dim sum dishes and two drinks—was a pretty good deal. The “Chicken Go!” soup with noodles was rich and tasted comfortingly homemade, thanks in part to a broth that’s been slow-cooked for 12 hours. Dry tossed noodles with oyster sauce had a hearty flavor and were tossed in just the right amount of lard. As for the dim sum, our favorites were the chilled kelp with crispy anchovies and the beautifully marinated stewed mushroom.

Saint-Germain

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foremost for the eyes. There are two options: you can either go for a dinner buffet, which includes an all-you-can-eat appetizer and dessert spread, or pick from the a la carte menu. For starters, there was a good and reliable selection of meats, pastas, seafood and veggies to choose from, but it defi nitely wasn’t one of those overwhelming spreads where your eyes get lost in all the options.

FLAMES CHARCOAL CHICKEN Australian G/F, Shop A2, Hoi Wan Building, 25 Hoi Wan St., Quarry Bay 2563-9928 Mon-Fri noon-10pm, Sat-Sun noon-4pm $

Flames Charcoal Chicken’s predominantly outdoor seating makes it feel a bit like a dai pai dong, but you’re getting Aussie-style charcoalgrilled chicken here. There are two flavors: Portuguese marinade with ginger, garlic and lemon; and mixed herbs with breadcrumb stuffi ng. The chicken (either one-half or one-quarter) arrived on a slender white plate, garnished with salad. You could tell the poultry took quite a licking in the flames. Overall the bird was quite satisfying, with a rich savory character and a spicy, tangy tinge thanks to the creamy homemade piri piri sauce on the side.

MR AND MRS FOX (MRS FOX)

NEW REVIEW

European 23 Tong Chong St., Quarry Bay 2697-8500 Sun-Thu 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight $$$

The News Room Diner

Th is buzzing corner of Quarry Bay is home to the uber-trendy Tong Chong Street Sunday Markets as well as this three-story F&B monster opened by Swire Restaurant Group, with casual dining downstairs and a more intimate private space up on top. The ground floor “Mrs Fox” is sunny and spacious, with attractive brass and wood details everywhere. The vibe is convivial and laidback, yet trendy. The whiskey Bloody Mary ($80) had a sharp kick of sriracha and a memorable smoky aroma, which made for an interesting cocktail. The lunch menu is a one-pager with staple dishes and more creative twists, such as fried tandoori squid ($70) which had a touch of cumin: Top notch flavors, but the batter was too thick. The charcuterie board with three choices ($155) was quite good value for its size. A black angus cheeseburger ($95) was everything a burger should be: juicy, meaty and smoky. With wallet-friendly prices and an attractive atmosphere, Mr and Mrs Fox is great for long relaxing meals—we’re looking forward to dinner at Mr Fox upstairs.

THE NEWS ROOM DINER American Taikoo Fong, 33 Tong Chong St., Quarry Bay 2562-3444 Mon-Fri 7:30am-midnight; Sat-Sun 10am-midnight $$

The News Room is possibly better known for its happy hour than for its food among the local after-work crowd, but that doesn’t mean the grub’s not up to scratch. Th is revamped restaurant now offers a casual American menu of hot dogs, burgers, nachos and everything in between.

Although the food seems a bit formal (like the Mexican hot dog that’s impossible to eat with your hands) and heft ily priced, the flavors work and the ingredients are top-notch. We especially love the Louisiana chili crab cakes, which are made with fresh, pure crabmeat. We’re also a big fan of the rabbit. Less gamey than you’d think, it came wrapped in bacon to preserve its moisture and flavor.

SHAU KEI WAN INDONESIAN SATE HOUSE Indonesian G/F, 76D Shau Kei Wan Main St. East, Shau Kei Wan 2886-5796 Tue-Sun 4pm-1am $

If you walk out of Shau Kei Wan MTR station any time after 4pm, just follow the irresistible satay aromas to get to a tiny, yet very popular, Indonesian satay shop on the left. Run by an Indonesian Chinese couple, the Indonesian Sate House has been open for 15 years and is renowned for its signature skewers.

TAI YE CHICKEN Cantonese G/F, 14 Main St. East, Shau Kei Wan 2513-0157 Daily 11:30am-11pm $

Shau Kei Wan’s Main Street East is the place to go if you are looking for great food at affordable prices. It offers a variety of eats ranging from fish ball noodles to Japanese ramen, but Tai Ye Chicken really shines if you have a sudden craving

Mr And Mrs Fox

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for Cantonese dishes. Like a typical neighborhood Cantonese restaurant, the décor is unassuming with little furnishing. We went for the signature dish of Tai Ye chicken. The chicken skin showed a delightfully brownish color, with the tender meat fully absorbing the sauce. The sauce is more than pure soy sauce, and the presence of wine added an extra dimension to the whole thing.

T.AI HANG CHAO’S HOTPOTTER Hotpot 22 Wun Sha St., Tai Hang 2890-9308 Daily 11:30am-12:30am $$

There are Chiu Chow restaurants aplenty all over this town, but this one specializes in hotpot. What sets Chiu Chow hotpot apart, owner Ted Lam explains, is that the cow is the star of the show— not just its meat but also its innards and the bones (which are used for the broth). Any leftover beef goes into beef balls, which are handmade each day and a favorite among regular patrons. Other popular dishes include Japanese oysters, pork belly slices and a variety of dumplings— our favorite kind is innovatively fi lled with cheese and salmon.

MAN SING Chinese 16 Wun Sha St., Tai Hang 2576-7272 Daily 6-10pm $

Man Sing is a tiny shop with a truckload of character, which is what we love about it. Patrons spill out onto the streets come mealtime, sitting on plastic stools by rickety wooden tables. Queues are a given, but that doesn’t seem to deter anyone who wants to eat here as its the food that really makes the experience. On the menu is homestyle Chinese, just like grandma makes at home. Meat, seafood, stir-fries, veggies, carbs—you name it, and Man Sing’s probably got a dish for it. A bite into the Chinese-style minced pork pie, piled high like a pyramid and topped with a bright, salty egg yolk, instantly transported us back to our simple childhood days growing up with home-cooked meals.

NEW YORK CLUB Pan-Asian 24 School St., Tai Hang 6530-0288 Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun noon-11pm $

Th is little family-run joint that used to be around the corner on Brown Street has nothing to do with New York surprisingly—they do serve hot dogs, but that’s about it. In fact, patrons mostly come here for hotpot, or fusion Thai and Shanghainese dishes. Sammy, who runs the shop with his siblings, gave us one order each of red chicken curry, wonton dumplings and white radish in broth, shrimp toast paired with shrimp

Chao’s Hotpotter

cakes, and a green papaya salad. We enjoyed the red curry immensely; teetering on the mild and sweet side, the sauce was smooth and creamy, with plenty of chicken and basil leaves mixed in for a hearty and full-flavored dish. Paired with crispy garlic toast, the combo was heartwarming and fi lling.

POP IT American Shop A, 4 Sun Chun St., Tai Hang 2889-2090 Tue-Sun noon10pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Hot dogs had a brief run several years ago, before burgers took over the scene for good—but that hasn’t stopped Pop It from popping up in Tai Hang with its souped-up dogs and lobster rolls. Th is neighborhood joint has an open kitchenslash-bar, a few high tables on the ground floor, and a fabled upper floor dining area which we’ve never seen during our visits at lunchtime. All of the dogs we’ve tried, including the Spicy Dog ($76), Cheesy Dog ($66) and Texas Dog ($86), were solid as far as fancy fast food goes. The buns—though tiny by North American standards—were perfectly toasted, the all-beef sausage full of bounce. The toppings seemed gimmicky at first, but Pop It makes sure they all work in harmony with the base offering—think of them as fancy condiments you wouldn’t get at a typical hot dog stand. Our Spicy Dog came with seaweed strips, deep-fried jalepenos and sriracha mayo that gave the dish an awesome kick. The fresh-cut fries and coleslaw were also very worthy accompaniments. Pop It has admirably managed to bridge that gap between poor-quality fast food and overpriced reinventions.

T. IN HAU IZAKAYA 88 Japanese G/F, Fat Cheong Building, 73 Electric Rd., Tin Hau 2566-0488 Sun-Wed 6pm-midnight; Thu-Sat 6pm-1am $$

A cute little Japanese bar in Tin Hau’s foodie enclave? We perked up when we heard the news. The izakaya looks just as you’d expect: small and cozy, with furniture made of wood, a small bar and kitchen to the left. We ordered tofu, mushroom and corn skewers as well as chicken wings, scallops and a grilled rice ball. While everything tasted fi ne, we couldn’t say any dish in particular stood out. The scallops were fresh and tender, and the shiitakes burst with juice. If you’re looking for no-frills treats at an arguably reasonable price ($20-25 for vegetables on sticks, $30 for chicken and double that for seafood), then this certainly fits the bill.

TOP GRADE HOT POT Hotpot 5-7 Tsing Fung St., Tin Hau 2323-1008 Daily 5:30pm-3am $

A spicy oasis amid Tin Hau’s durian-smelling dessert shops, Top Grade is a local joint that’s a tiny bit more upscale than your average unhygienic house of bubbling broth. The meal came in at about $140 per person, which we found eminently reasonable for the heaping plates of top-quality meat, wontons, tofu, noodles, veggies and crispy fish skin. The fish and meat balls that are devilishly fi lled with scalding cheese are also a must-order. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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Alibi

JORDAN AUSTRALIA DAIRY COMPANY

EDITOR’S PICK

Cha Chaan Teng 47 Parkes St., Jordan 2730-1356 Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun 7:30am-11pm $

Expect all the classic cha chaan teng hallmarks: bitchy banter from the kitchen staff, no-frills service, and downright rude attitudes from the older waiters. Want your iced lemon tea served before your eggs? “No.” The Australia Dairy Company is famed for making the best scrambled eggs on toast in town, with the super-secret ingredient being a bit of canned cream soup mixed into the egg batter. People also queue up for their double-boiled milk pudding, and in our humble opinion, their French toast is the best in all of southern China.

BAO BAO KING LO CHIU VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT Vietnamese 22-24 Parkes St., Jordan 2314-7983 Daily noon-11pm $

With the restaurant’s exterior sporting an awesome sketch of the owner offering an enthusiastic thumbs-up, Bao Bao King

was an easy choice, and the bright, simple interior was inviting enough. For mains, we shared the chicken curry with bread and the tomato and crab roe soup. It was worth the wait—mild yet full-flavored with soft ly melting potatoes soaking up the spice. Despite the fact that the Vietnamese are much better known for their baguettes than curries, the dish was satisfying and we greedily emptied the bowl. The sweet and sour tomato and crab soup, while not as famous as its distant cousin pho, is a worthy adoption to any diner’s repertoire.

JANG DOK KOREAN RESTAURANT Korean G/F, 53 Pilkem St., Jordan 2375-9805 Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm $

What was once a peppering of hangul haunts along TST’s Kimberley Road is now an amorphous expanding restoblob, with sojusoaked barbecues and kimbap counters popping up all over the place. The bibimbap was fresh, hot and chock-full of veggies, but the winner was defi nitely the fried kimchi pancake—moist and flavorful with just the right mix of fluff y and crisp. Food this tasty is hard to shake from your head once you’ve tried it, and that’ll have us coming straight back to Jang Dok the next time we’re craving authentic Korean.

SAM’S COOK Western Shop 3B, Fortune Terrace, 4-10 Tak Shing St., Jordan 3580-0727 Daily 7:30am-5:30pm $

A street as quiet and as quaint as Jordan’s Tak Shing deserves an eatery to match its surroundings, and this cute brunch mainstay fits the bill. We went straight for one of the allday brekkies ($70-86); two buttermilk waffles slathered in syrup and served with two jumbo sausages, strip bacon, scrambled eggs, baked beans, corn, a salad cup and toast. The eggs and waffles were fluff y, the meats were juicy, and the salad was an addictive surprise: lettuce with chunks of pineapple, orange and dragon fruit drizzled with a sesame seed dressing. Overall, a satisfying and hearty breakfast .

TAO Japanese G/F, Mau Lam Commercial Building, 16-18 Mau Lam St., Jordan 2620-0411 Daily noon-11pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Th is cozy establishment, with warm and welcoming service, is a great hideaway for a quiet and relaxing evening. Our waitress recommended the whole live red sea bream from their tiny tank ($288). The chef sliced sashimi from the fish and served it with a tangy sweet sauce, skewering the rest on the plate. When we fi nished the sashimi,

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the whole fish was brought back to the kitchen to be deep-fried, arriving back at our table light and not at all greasy. We also ordered two butterroasted large freshwater clams ($58 each), which were juicy, sweet and tender. The fried crab noodle ($128) was a specialty dish we’d definitely go back for: crunchy fried noodles topped with seaweed and crab roe, served with a thick sauce chock-full of crab meat.

YAGURA Japanese LG, Eaton Hong Kong, 380 Nathan Rd., Jordan 2782-1818 Daily noon-3pm, 5:30-10:30pm $$-$$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

We love Yagura. We are not sure how much you know about dining in Jordan but let us break the news to you—there was no such thing as decent food AND decent décor in this small area between Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui. And then came Yagura. This little Japanese restaurant in the Eaton Hotel is not your ordinary hotel eatery— prices are reasonable and the vibe is welcoming and down-to-earth. The sashimi platter was excellent quality, the hot dishes flavorful and not oily. Don’t forget to try their own brand of sake— it’s light, pure and great served cold.

YAT TUNG HEEN Cantonese B2, Eaton Hong Kong, 380 Nathan Rd., Jordan 2710-1093 Daily 6-11pm $$$-$$$$

This popular restaurant prides itself on the quality of its cuisine. It serves typical dai pai dong and dim sum dishes, minus the grime. With a capacity

for 230 people and seven VIP rooms, this place is designed with banquets in mind; you can see it in the lavishly spacious décor and the tables designed for sharing. While the menu is extensive, it’s the usual array of banquet-style dishes such as bird’s nest and braised beef, double-boiled cream soups, shiny steamed vegetables and cushiony rice. Despite being predictable, the food is excellent.

MONG KOK ALIBI

NEW

REVIEW Western/European 5/F, Cordis Hong Kong at Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok 3552-3028 Sun-Thu 10am-1am; Fri-Sat 10am-2am $$$

This wine bar and restaurant in what used to be Langham Place Hotel and is now Cordis serves up simple, familiar dishes made with fresh, high-end ingredients from all over the world. We started the meal off right with a big seafood platter for two ($538) which was overflowing with freshly shucked oysters—ranging from little flavorful shells like a Kumamoto to big juicy ones from Scotland—plus Boston lobster, king crab legs, tiger prawns and Cherrystone clams. Next up, pan-seared Hokkaido scallops with cauliflower purée, quinoa and Spanish ham ($148): light and perfectly cooked. Other high notes included bone marrow and braised wagyu crostini with fig and whiskey chutney ($118); the unfriendly-to-yourwaistline-but-worth-it truffle, Spanish ham and

manchego cheese toastie ($88) and the gorgeously tender, rich and comforting rib eye steak with horseradish and salsa verde ($288-408).

HESHEEAT Dessert G/F, Shop 4, Ngai Hing Mansion, 22 Pak Po St., Mong Kok 5571-3056 Daily 1pm-1am $

Dessert shack HeSheEat is tucked into the quieter part of Mong Kok. It’s normal to see at least six or seven people waiting outside, and especially before and after dinner time. We opted for a praline fondant cake with coconut ice cream— a mini chocolate heaven, with a slight twist. In the spirit of their many Japanese-inspired desserts, we also tried the sakura and red bean soufflé with green tea ice cream. The soufflé itself was perfectly risen, soft and not too sweet, but the sakura flavor barely came through. Drinks-wise, trying their fragrant iced organic detox rose tea with strawberry sorbet was an amazing life choice— a great palate cleanser.

MING COURT Cantonese 6/F, Cordis Hong Kong at Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok 3552-3028 Daily 11am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm $$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

The sister restaurant of the famed T’ang Court at the Langham is just as elegant, and a twoMichelin-star holder to boot (T’ang Court has three). The menu is extensive, with specialties such as abalone, lobster and pigeon prepared with a special high-temperature stir-frying technique that seals in flavor. It has a good selection of New and Old World wines, and an equally extensive list of Chinese spirits. As for the food, our garoupa was stir-fried with shrimp and mushrooms— simple, but very tasty. The deep-fried lobster with cheese and simmered abalone in vinegar with angel hair pasta was surprisingly crunchy and married the flavors well. The food was all gorgeously presented with a touch of finesse.

MORIHACHI YAKINIKU Japanese 3/F, Plaza 38, 38 Shan Tung St., Mong Kok 2382-3338 Weekdays noon-3pm, 6pm-3am; Weekends 12:30-3:30pm, 6pm-3am $$$

Ming Court

EDITOR’S PICK

Morihachi is extremely spacious, with the tables set far enough apart to ensure you can have a private dinner with your dining companion. The food was very fine: the beef shank in fruit flavoring was extremely juicy, and best of all, the half-priced wagyu might be the best grilled cow we’ve ever had. And how did we pull off this perfect feat of fine dining? Our more-than-helpful waitress was on hand the entire time, telling us exactly what was good and what wasn’t.

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SPICY ANDONG Korean 20 Pak Po St., Mong Kok 2332-0823 Daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight $

This Korean joint serves up traditional “grandmother’s Andong jjimdak” (braised spicy chicken), competing with the four or five Chinese chicken claypot eateries dotting the Pak Po Street area. The waiters are a little hard to flag down, but in return they leave you pretty much alone for your meal. Pan-fried dumplings topped with melted cheese were served up on a steel plate, with the cheese still bubbling. Paired with the juicy pork filling, it felt decadent but wasn’t greasy. Their Andong chicken is of course the star of the show. We tried a half-chicken portion (huge enough for two to three people) and it was a flavorful soysauce-based concoction of tender chicken, assorted vegetables and Korean glass noodles which left us wanting more.

TAP – THE ALE PROJECT American 15 Hak Po St., Mong Kok 2468-2010 Tue-Thu noon-midnight; FriSun noon-2am; Mon 6pm-12:30am $$

NEW REVIEW

This Mong Kok craft beer bar boasts at least a dozen beers on tap, specializing in Hong Kong

brewery Young Master Ales. It’s a smallish space with a bright industrial look, crammed full of seats and stools. The menu revolves around Hong Kong takes on classic pub food. The “lap cheong schmear” ($58) was toast with two big scoops of homemade pâté, made with duck liver and lap cheong sausages. That unique lap cheong flavor was a fantastic twist on the dish. A large Sichuan chicken wrap ($74) came out fresh and crunchy, full of complementary flavors and just a touch of Sichuan spice. Our crispy Cajun wings with fermented tofu ranch sauce ($58) were a little plain on their own, but the sauce’s sour tofu kick lifted them to the next level. We were excited about the “siu yuk cubano” ($45 for half, $78 for fullsize): It was delicious, but the Hong Kong twist was comparatively nonexistent. Call us spoiled…

YAU MA TEI MIDO CAFE Cha Chaan Teng 63 Temple St., Yau Ma Tei 2384-6402 Daily 9am-10pm $

Antique cashier machine, check. Tiled walls, check. Dumbwaiter, check. Close proximity to

touristy Temple Street, check. Fabulously oldschool, they still have spittoons installed for your spitting convenience. The star of the show here is the baked pork chop rice with a rich tomato sauce, slightly burned on the edges, and served in an adorable metal container.

SUN HING CHANG RESTAURANT Cantonese 23 Ning Po St., Yau Ma Tei 2783-8539 Daily 6am-1am $

The modest and slightly run-down congee restautant specializes in freshly boiled fish congee, and there is a lot of fish on the Chinese-only menu—fish belly, fish bone, fish tail, fish jaw, fish head, even fish mouth. Not a fish lover? Classic congee condiments such as pork liver and beef are available as well. Portions are extremely generous—our congee with fish belly and pork liver was packed full of meat. The fresh fish had large bones, making it easy to pick them out. And we were pleasantly surprised by the perfectly cooked liver. The boiled fish skin, served with slices of ginger and spring onions, was crunchy and addictive.

Tim Ho Wan

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PRINCE EDWARD AH CHUN SHANDONG DUMPLING

mushrooms—perfectly matched the dumplings. The broth of dace, pork ribs and arrowroot created an almost milky, slightly sweet soup.

EDITOR’S PICK

SHANG SHANG SHANGHAI CUISINE

Chinese G/F, 60 Lai Chi Kok Rd., Prince Edward 2789-9611 Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun 11am-11pm $

Shanghainese Shop 115C, 1/F, Pioneer Centre, 750 Nathan Rd., Prince Edward 2628-9928 Daily 11am-11pm $

If you can bear the line and actually get a table at block staple Ah Chun, the homemade flavors of their Shandong dishes will have you happily back in line the following night. We ordered 10 pan-fried pork and leek dumplings and devoured them: crispy on one side and soft on the other, and the innards heavier on tasty veggies than meat— a provincial policy, they claim. For mains, we opted for the eggplant done Yuxiang-style, which was fried before being doused in sauce, the kitchen adding their own unconventional mix of carrot, green peppers and cilantro.

This relocated resto boasts cheap and delicious xiaolongbao, which were on our must-try list. The verdict? They’re juicy—the soup inside isn’t greasy, the skins are thin and delicate, yet the dumpling is easy to pick up. Definitely a dish we’ll order again. A few other signature Shanghainese dishes proved to be solid choices: they were done right, but were not exceptional. The Zhejiang-style salted ham was marbly and well-flavored. The dandan noodles were made Sichuan-style, with enough heat but not enough peanut.

FAMOUS DIM SUM Cantonese 7B Playing Field Rd., Prince Edward 2398-3183 Daily 7am-10pm $

NEW REVIEW

Famous Dim Sum sure has a confident name: But this all-day dim sum restaurant, started by alumni of Michelin darling One Dim Sum around the corner, delivers on few-frills bites in a relatively comfortable environment. You can gauge the talents of a restaurant by the quality of their har gao ($26) and the ones at Famous Dim Sum didn’t disappoint, with thin wrappers stuffed full of fresh shrimp. “This is Not Spring Rolls” ($23) were three long, thin… spring rolls, basically, filled with more of the same highquality shrimp. “Lor mai faan” fried sticky rice ($25) was a generous helping of rice that had been stir-fried with lap cheung sausage, dried shrimps and peanuts and then steamed in a lotus leaf. The salty, crunchy, fragrant dish tasted just like our childhoods. Finally, the char siu bao ($16) were large and fluffy with a sweet and meaty sauce, but they were sadly a little light on the pork. Maybe we just got unlucky. Staff were pleasant and efficient, and happy to recommend special dishes.

NOM NOM DUMPLING Sichuan 30 Boundary St., Prince Edward 3105-9968 Daily 11:30am-10:30pm $

This shop serves up Sichuan snacks and traditional dumplings. The décor is a quirky balance of modern and old Chinese, but what we love most is the spaciousness. We dove right into the dumplings: the pork with chives, and the pork with pak choi (both $40 for 10 pieces) were juicy and packed with filling. The homemade sauce— made with shallots, conpoy, and prized matsutake

TAI KOK TSUI TIM HO WAN Cantonese Shop 72, Olympian City 2, 18 Hoi Ting Rd., Tai Kok Tsui 2332-2896 Daily 10am-10pm $

SHAM SHUI PO KAKUREGA RAMEN FACTORY

EDITOR’S PICK

Ramen 7/F, Dragon Centre, 37 Yen Chow St., Sham Shui Po 3487-0989 Daily 11am-3pm; 6-9pm $

Tucked behind the Dragon Centre’s seventh-floor maze is a plywood-walled minimalist dive, where about 20 diners slurp away while perched atop recycled Coca-Cola crates. The joint offers only tsukemen, where noodles are served separate from a lukewarm dipping broth, which is turned into a soup halfway through the meal when hot water is added. There are three varieties on offer—white, red and black—and each is served with green onion, bamboo shoots, seaweed, mouth-watering char siu and an egg half-boiled to perfection. While all three were brilliant, the white easily won the table, a flavorful tonkotsu pork bone broth with a fishy twist thanks to splashes of bonito powder and chili miso.

MA’S RESTAURANT EDITOR’S PICK

If you’re looking for Tim Ho Wan, just look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Opened by three-Michelin-starred Lung King Heen’s former dim sum chef, Pui Gor, it’s not hard to see why this restaurant is one of the most buzzed-about dim sum places in town. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy—even if there’s a good chance you’ll spend longer queuing than you will eating.

Xinjiang/Halal G/F, 21-25 Cheung Sha Wan Rd., Sham Shui Po 2787-6108 Daily 11:30am-11pm $

Ma’s—named for the most popular ChineseMuslim surname; not the counterpart to “Pa”— serves only halal dishes from the oft-overlooked Xinjiang province of China. On offer in this simple eatery are items like goulash, beef cakes and curries. Flavor, it turns out, is the operative word, as every last item was exclaimit-aloud delicious; served fast, piping hot, and packed with fresh veggies and perfectly marinated meats.

THAI CHIU Thai G/F, 101 Fuk Wing St., Sham Shui Po 2314-3333 Daily 11am-10:30pm $

XIAO WANG BEEF NOODLE Taiwanese Shop 23 & 25, UG/F, Olympian City 1, 11 Hoi Fai Rd., Tai Kok Tsui 2749-2111 Daily 11:30am-10:30pm $$

Originally from Taiwan, this award-winning beef noodle shop has now expanded to Hong Kong, bringing its aromatic beef along for the ride. There are also original sauces on sale, so you can cook the dishes at home as well. Guava with preserved plums ($24) was a good starter to whet the appetite, but of course we were here for the beef and tendon noodles ($58). You can choose thick or thin noodles—we went thick and it tasted just like being in a Kaohsiung noodle shack. Tender beef was paired with al dente tendon, all in a rich beef broth with a touch of Chinese medicine flavor. It all matched well with fresh, crisp Taiwanese “A” vegetables with sesame sauce ($22).

NEW REVIEW

This hole-in-the-wall eatery has won Michelin Bib Gourmand status (i.e., cheap good eats) for several years in a row, and continues to deliver flavor-packed, well-executed Thai specialties at great value prices. From appetizer samplers to Thai-style noodles, curries and soups, the menu is substantial with prices mostly hitting below the $50 mark. We start off our meal with some spring rolls ($40)—crispy and seasoned well, if not entirely memorable. The pad thai ($55) is near perfection—not too heavy, not too sweet, and with that elusive hawker stall-like quality that only comes from a well-seasoned wok and skilled hands working it. Our green curry ($52) fared just as well, with just-crisp vegetables swimming in a smoothly blended sauce, heavy on the coconut, with ample residual heat hitting the back of the throat.

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thigh meat. Our sashimi platter for two ($298) was fresh and generous, with a decent selection of yellowtail, salmon, tuna and sweet shrimp. The vegetable tempura ($70) is also a must-try, as the veggies are roasted first to develop a nice caramelization before being battered and fried, making them both succulent and sweet.

LAI CHI KOK CHENG BANZHANG TAIWAN DELICACY

NEW REVIEW

Taiwanese Flat 2, 1/F, Elite Industrial Centre, 883 Cheung Sha Wan Rd., Lai Chi Kok 2576-1199 Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm $

Greater China Club

Th is popular Taiwanese joint gets jam-packed most nights, but quick turnover means you should be seated within 10-20 minutes. You’ll fi nd most people chowing down on a bowl of beef noodle soup ($50) with two choices available, spicy or clear broth: Go for the spicy option, and be rewarded with an intensely aromatic bowl of steaming, collagen-rich broth, with fork-tender hunks of beef nestled in a maze of hand-pulled noodles, all topped with tart pickled mustard greens and spring onions. Another signature dish is the Dongpo pork belly, which you can order in a steamed bao ($32) or as part of a bento box with steamed rice, minced braised pork, sour cabbage, dried fish flakes and a boiled egg ($45). In both, the portion of Dongpo pork is massive—a fatty, sweet and succulent piece of meat. Side dishes can be ordered three to a plate ($25) and are all worth trying, from the crisp pig’s ears to fresh seaweed to cold silken tofu and thousand-year-old egg.

GREATER CHINA CLUB Rustico

YOSHI YOSHI Japanese G/F, 26 Apliu St., Sham Shui Po 5199-4233 Mon-Sat 6pm-2am $

NEW REVIEW

Th is Japanese izakaya is a hidden gem tucked away in Sham Shui Po. Simple décor and superfriendly staff make you feel at home, from the second you walk in the door. It was a surprise to fi nd such delicate flavors all throughout our meal, and for really good value. Cold sesame tofu ($23) was a good starter, with a hint of tartness to whet the appetite. Oden daikon ($12) was a Japanesestyle mild-flavored winter radish, marinated in miso for a tender and flavorful combo. The biggest surprise came from the thick egg roll ($42)— relatively pricey compared to the other dishes, but absolutely worth it, thanks to its soft and spongy outer layers and slightly runny interior.

MEI FOO YU RAKU TEI Japanese G/F, 2-8 Humbert St., Mei Foo 2745-9189 Daily 6-11:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

With a bustling izakaya-style atmosphere and relatively cheap prices, Yu Raku Tei is a Mei Foo favorite, serving up some of the best Japanese food in the area. The restaurant gets pretty busy most nights, so go before 7pm—and be prepared to get cozy with your neighbors. Th is is a no-frills establishment and prices remain low, with the exception of the sashimi platters which start from $298. We started our meal with a few sticks of yakitori ($42 per order), with a crispy and charred exterior giving way to juicy, tender chicken

EDITOR’S

PICK Cantonese Unit A, 10/F, D2 Place, 9 Cheung Yee St., Lai Chi Kok 2743-8055 Weekdays noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Weekends 11am-3pm, 6-10:30pm $$$

Treat yourself to dim sum with a modern twist at the Greater China Club. The newest private member’s club in the up-and-coming Lai Chi Kok area, the Greater China Club caters to Hong Kong’s fi ne dining elite, serving up premium and expensive ingredients in a traditional setting. Dishes like steamed rice rolls with Iberico pork, wok-fried noodles with beef and XO sauce, and deep fried pastry with pumpkin and red bean are just a few of the chef’s signature dishes.

RUSTICO Spanish Shop G01, G/F, D2 Place, 9 Cheung Yee St., Lai Chi Kok 2743-4511 Daily noon-10:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

A quaint little Spanish retreat, Rustico replicates the rustic countryside with brick facades, red

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wood furniture and iron window grilles. We went for a set lunch and enjoyed a generous portion of beef carpaccio slices topped with arugula and parmesan. Although the slices were thicker than we were used to, the meat was still tender and juicy. Our roasted chicken thigh (part of set lunch, $145) was moist and paired with flavorful herb-topped potatoes. We had a pan-fried fish main (part of set lunch, $165) with a moist chunk of white fish meat served alongside a thick mangobased sauce. While the fish was firm and tasty, the sweet and tangy sauce was strange and did not really match. With a cutesy design and affordable prices, Rustico is a good neighborhood venue for those looking for a slightly upscale meal without trekking to a major district.

emerging north of Mong Kok. Dishes are a mix of east and west, from beef noodle soup to chorizo penne and items such as baked pork chop rice straddling the divide. Our selection of dim sum was satisfying and worth the few extra dollars ($18 for two pieces), including a non-traditional siu mai with kimchi, and lobster xiaolongbao. Tang2’s “signature” chicken rice turned out to be Hainan chicken ($84), which was appropriately aromatic although on the stingy side.

Cantonese Shop G09C, G/F, Cheung Sha Wan Plaza, 833 Cheung Sha Wan Rd., Lai Chi Kok 2341-5788 Daily 11am-11:30pm $$

NEW REVIEW

With bright yellow leather banquettes and a spacious, well-lit dining room, the newest branch of David Tang’s expanding restaurant empire is a colorful addition to a trendy arts and food scene

with them. The black pepper chicken came with immaculately crispy skin—think suckling pig style—that was fragrantly aromatic, and revealed a relatively tender layer of white meat underneath. There was a cup of gravy for dipping the meat into—smart, because the chunky meat and crispy skin do start to feel dry on their own after a while.

FRIENDSHIP THAI FOOD Thai G/F, 38 Kai Tak Rd., Kowloon City 2382-8671 Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight; Sun noon-midnight $

KOWLOON CITY CHICKEN N EGG

TANG2

Western 79 Tak Ku Ling Rd., Kowloon City 9383-5742 Daily noon-3pm, 6-9pm $$

Th is little western diner looks a bit out of place on the streets of Kowloon City, but that’s also part of its charm. On the chicken side, you get to choose your choice of roast: the signature black pepper, or the roast of the week—honey mustard in our case. We ordered a quarter piece of each, and sides of fried eggs, potato wedges and green beans to go

Friendship Thai is a poky, humble little Thai restaurant that has been around for decades and is packed to the rafters just about every night of the week. Crispy prawn cakes sprang back with a satisfying bounce when bitten into; laab moo was a huge plate of spicy-sour minced pork with crunchy lettuce; a rich, complex tom yum goong wasn’t overpoweringly spicy; and a pineapple fried rice was good if disappointingly not served in a hollowed-out pineapple. The surprise hit of the night was the lemonade beef, also known as Thai beef salad. It was DELICIOUS.

RUAMJAI THAI RESTAURANT Thai G/F, 11-13 Tak Ku Ling Rd., Kowloon City 2716-4588 Daily 10am-11pm $-$$

Forget all the overpriced Southeast Asian eateries of Hong Kong Island: Kowloon City has SAR’s most authetic Thai food. The menu has plenty of Issan-style dishes, as well as those popular with Hongkongers—curries and the like. The larb moo minced pork salad ($70) was the right amount savory and spicy. A whole chicken ($140) came with crispy, golden skin and juicy meat beneath. The salt-grilled grey mullet ($128) was the standout dish of the evening. A whole fi sh stuffed with spices, it had a heady aroma of lemon and garlic, although not so overdone that the mullet’s earthy flavors were masked. The chicken and fi sh both had sauce on the side, but the meat was so good that we didn’t need it. There’s a reason why diners constantly flock to Kowloon City: give Ruamjai a try.

WONG CHUN CHUN Thai Bel Shine Centre, 23 Tak Ku Ling Rd., Kowloon City 2716-6269 Daily 11am-2am $$

Tang2

Wong Chun Chun is known for being the oldest—not to mention biggest—Thai restaurant in Kowloon City. Our mixed starters platter of crispy fi sh cakes, prawn crackers, banana leaf chicken and spring rolls was mostly a hit—save for the overly greasy spring rolls. The chicken coconut green curry we ordered was exactly as we expected—a sweet and fragrant, slightly runny broth fi lled with generous chunks of Thai eggplant and tender chicken meat.

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ZONE G Kowloon East, New Territories

KOWLOON BAY TAI WING WAH (UNDER RENOVATION) Chinese Shop 2, 1/F, Chevalier Commercial Centre, 8 Wang Hoi Rd., Kowloon Bay 2148-7773 Daily 11am-11pm $

Traditional Hong Kong cuisine consists of huge stir-fry dishes made of the freshest ingredients. Enter Tai Wing Wah. Run by local food personality Hugo Leung, it serves ultratraditional walled village dishes—most of which have disappeared from local menus—for just $52 per dish. Our favorites are the steamed shredded taro with pork, and steamed egg with fish intestines in a clay pot. Portions are big so remember to bring a friend. They’re currently under renovation, so call before you go.

TFVSJS CAFÉ

NEW REVIEW

favorites like char kway teow, satay skewers, curries and laksa. You also get all-you-can-drink juices and teas when you order from the set lunch menu. The nasi goreng ($68), although not exactly authentic, was delectable with rice coated in fragrant soy sauce and topped with a runnyyolked egg and crunchy prawn chips. The laksa ($78) was generous with prawn and baby octopus toppings and came loaded with chewy noodles, all swimming in a relatively mild but balanced curry broth. On the miss side, the meat in the Hainan chicken rice ($88) was on the dry side, and the rice was overly mushy. The Singaporean chili prawn spaghetti ($78) was anything but spicy, and we doubt any real hawker stall would’ve offered anything as unexciting as this dish. Hawker 18 is an altogether solid option if you’re in the area, even if it doesn’t quite capture the hawker centers of Singapore.

KWUN TONG

Cafe B10 Gee Luen Factory Building, 316-318 Kwun Tong Rd., Ngau Tau Kok 2415-4999 Tue-Sat noon-3pm, 6:30-10pm; Mon noon-3pm $

BLUEDUCK WORKSHOP

Hidden away in an industrial building in Ngau Tai Kok, Tfvsjs Café is run by four members of the indie post-rock band of the same name. Guess we all have to have a hobby. Raw minimalist décor, an arty atmosphere and even artier location guarantee that the restaurant attracts the hipster crowd, but affordable Italian-inspired dishes keep them coming back. A dinner set ($320) came with appetizer, main and dessert. Tomatoes with home-dried strawberries and a little balsamic vinegar combined sweet and sour to stimulate the appetite. Basil eggplant ravioli was a large homemade ravioli, topped with a little crunch. We also ordered the cured salmon with a green apple sorbet ($102): a cool but not too sweet match with the salmon which worked very well. The dishes here are creative, but that’s not always a good thing. Our dessert of green pea and elderflower tasted as weird as it sounds. Warm peas and cold elderflower sorbet? No thanks. Hipster décor, hipster crowd and good food make this a place we’ll return to—just not for the peas.

Th is small private kitchen is soft ly lit in warm tones, a relaxing respite from downtown Central. The décor is like a friend’s apartment, though a bit 90s, with white walls, white paper on the tables and a spacious open kitchen. It offers a fi xed menu of six courses ($300 per person), and the portions are quite generous. Th ree appetizers came one after the other, all to be shared home-style. We

Western Flat A, 3/F, Fully Industrial Building, 6 Tsun Yip Lane, Kwun Tong 2351-3919 Daily 11am-11pm $$

particularly enjoyed the prawn and asparagus salad dotted with raw lily bulbs, soft-boiled eggs in truffle cream, and waves of Parma ham on melon. The soup, main and dessert then came individually: cream of carrot, lamb chops and vanilla ice cream with warm chestnut cake. Lunch is a super bargain and quite popular: $120 per head with a soup, appetizer, main, dessert and coffee—just make sure to phone in advance.

FORTE Japanese/Italian. 2/F, L’hotel élan, 38 Chong Yip St., Kwun Tong 3968-8222 Daily 6:30pm-11pm $$

High ceilings, rocky walls and metallic touches are something you wouldn’t expect at all in a ’burb like Kwun Tong. Aside from cocktails and a variety of wines, Forte also serves Japanese-Italian fusion cuisine.

JUDY’S AUTHENTIC YUNNAN DELICACIES

EDITOR’S PICK

Chinese 17 Shung Yan St., Kwun Tong 2174-7338 Daily 11am-10pm $

Among the many splendid things about Yunnan province is its great food, amazing people and nights so sordid we can’t even write about them. In Hong Kong you’ll fi nd numerous restaurants claiming to be “Yunnan specialists” but the only one worth its salt is Judy’s. Th is hole-in-the-wall serves authentic Yunnan cuisine—order up some fried goat cheese slices and salty beef jerky and wash it down with a local Yunnan beer. But try to book ahead as the place is almost always packed.

KWAI FONG HAWKER 18

NEW

REVIEW Singaporean Shop 410-412, 4/F, Metroplaza, 223 Hing Fong Rd., Kwai Fong 2156-2228 Daily 11:30am-10pm $-$$

Th is upscale hawker-style restaurant has light wood floors, colorful furniture and plants on the walls. On the menu at Hawker 18 are perennial

Hawker 18

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SHANGHAI WING WAH (SZE CHUEN) RESTAURANT Shanghainese 15 Shung Yan St., Kwun Tong 2341-0583 Daily 11am-11pm $

MADE IN HK

The 40-year-old establishment may be small, old and slightly crowded, but it’s a popular neighborhood joint serving authentic and tasty Shanghainese food. The dinner set meal for two ($172)—which includes a soup, two dishes of your choice, two bowls of rice and two teas—is a great deal. The sautéed sliced pork with pepper and chili is essentially bacon tossed in a spicy and tangy sauce, and pairs perfectly with rice. The braised minced pork ball was one of the best we’ve ever had—soft, tender and full of flavor. We loved the spicy hot and sour soup and its spoton condiments. A red bean paste pancake was crispy and the fi lling sweet and thick. Delicious Shanghainese food never gets old. The restaurant and its surrounding neighborhood are well worth a visit before Kwun Tong’s redevelopment takes over for good.

Western Shop 13, 1/F, APM Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong 2156-2000 Daily 6:30am-10:30pm $-$$

TABLE 18

Made in HK

Th is Hong Kong-style “western” restaurant is a good-looking thing, tucked away in a corner of APM. It has a retro-hipster interior, with dark butcher’s lamps hanging from the ceiling and patterned tile floors. It’s a comfy place for a meal, and service is efficient. One standout was the ham and egg sandwich—a cha chaan teng classic. Ours came with toasted white bread: the crunch was a delightful contrast to the creamy scambled eggs. Our baked chicken rice with tomato sauce with puff pastry were good fi llers—although not something we’d come back for. Shopping at APM? Made in HK is a solid choice for resting your soles after a day of walking.

MIC KITCHEN Fusion G/F, AIA Kowloon Tower, Landmark East, 100 How Ming St., Kwun Tong 3758-2239 Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6:30pm-midnight $$$$

We’re seeing innovation here like we haven’t seen in years; we’re talking the true marriage of east and west, without the tack factor. Demon chef Alvin Leung’s protege Lo Ka-ki is at the helm, offering “modern comfort food.” We were huge fans of the handmade pasta with red prawn and prawn-chili oil: the prawns were succulent and the noodles rich, with marine-savory notes. The tender Iberico with hawthorn jelly was another not-quite-western dish that worked surprisingly well; same went for the fatty, sweet cod with black bean and honey glaze. The only dish that failed to impress was the lobster poached in butter. It was good, but didn’t showcase anything special. We also had sides of truffle turnip cake (delish) and salted fi sh mash (stinkily pleasant, like an aged cheese).

International UC1, APM Mall, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong 3148-9444 Daily 11:30am-11pm $

EDITOR’S PICK

Restaurant group King Parrot has been serving all sorts of cuisines for years, from affordable Spanish at El Cid and yakitori at Yuu to semi-authentic German fare at King Ludwig Beerhall. So what’s next? How about a restaurant that serves a mishmash of all their other restaurants’ signature dishes? Want to start with a mixed mushroom salad, followed by chicken yakitori and Japanese grilled mackerel, then some German wieners and a chocolate lava cake? You can have it all at Table 18. It might sound repulsive, but in truth the food is not bad, and by God, it’s cheap. The vibe at the restaurant was also surprisingly comfortable too. Table 18 is ideal for greedy folks who can’t make up their minds, but if you prefer your restaurants with a little more of their own identity, then this might be a little beyond your tastes.

LEI YUE MUN GATEWAY CUISINE Chinese seafood G/F, 58A Praya Rd. Central, Lei Yue Mun 2727-4628 Daily 11am-11pm $$$

Gateway Cuisine is at the very back of the Lei Yue Mun maze. You have to make your way through literally every seafood peddler, eggroll seller and tout before you end up here. Which might explain why it’s the glitziest, best designed of the bunch. Front-row seats right by the floor-to-ceiling windows gave unbeatable views. We bought the seafood from Wai Kee, a local distributor, which Gateway then transformed into delicious cooked

dishes: stir-fried razor clams in black bean sauce (aromatic and intense), broth-topped lobster with e-fu noodles (with gently marinated hunks of sweet meat); and steamed scallops with rice vermicelli. GC might not be the cheapest option on the block, but it’s definitely one of the most special, given its spectacular location and delectable dishes.

LUNG YUE RESTAURANT Seafood 41 Hoi Pong Rd., Lei Yue Mun 2348-6332 Daily noon-11pm $$$

You can end up paying extortionate prices for a meal in Lei Yue Mun if you don’t know where to go or what to get—so we stuck to a friend’s strict instructions and ordered our fresh catch at Wai Kee Seafood (right across from Lung Yue) before telling the Lung Yue staff how to cook ‘em. The first to arrive at the table was a plate of plain steamed prawns that were succulent and firm. Next, giant steamed razor clams with garlic, rice vermicelli and spring onions. Spicy mounds of garlic, paired with sharp savory soy, went perfectly well with the long, resilient strands of clam meat. Then we had steamed grouper, drenched in sweet soy and with sweet, firm flesh to match. We fi nished with a Kraft-cheese-baked lobster (large, buttery and meaty), deep-fried squid (meh), and a plate of Yeung Chow fried rice (full of “wok hei”).

SAI KUNG ANTHONY’S RANCH American 28 Yi Chun St., Sai Kung 2791-6116 Mon-Fri 12:30-11:30pm; Sat-Sun 9am-11pm $$

EDITOR’S PICK

Craving some good ol’ American comfort food? The next time you’re in the mood for ribs and thick-cut steaks, head to Anthony’s Ranch in Sai Kung. Th is two-floor joint is decked out like an Alabama slophouse, and serves arguably the best American grub this side of the US. From prime USDA steaks cut as fat as your face to burgers made from choice chuck beef, it’s a veritable cornucopia of heart attack–inducing fare, and the perfect cure for a hangover. Start off with a Filipino San Miguel served chilled in an ice-cold mug, and then attempt to make an impossible choice from the mouthwatering menu. We recommend the Kid Rib appetizer, the perfect way to sample their famous baby back ribs, and then whatever floats your boat. Divine steaks smothered in sauce, caveman-sized lamb chops or the massive sandwiches: burgers, French dip, beef brisket, and a tangy and juicy pulled pork. Next time you’re feeling like a hick, don those cowboy boots and stuff your mug down at the Ranch. You’ll roll out feeling stuffed and sated and grinning from ear to ear. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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SAN PO KONG

JASPAS Australian 13 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung 2792-6388 Daily 8:30am-10:30pm $$

A while back the Chinese media discovered the original Jaspas, devoting several newspaper inches and a chunk of airtime to its sublime fajitas—a sizzling plate of beef or chicken, fried onions and peppers, which you wrap in soft tortillas with salsa, guacamole and sour cream. So if you’re planning a lazy alfresco lunch in Sai Kung’s main square, call to make sure they have room. After all these years, it still has that sunny Jaspas vibe: for that we can thank the excellent staff, surely among the friendliest in Hong Kong, who turn a blind eye to sandy feet and messy children. The food is modern Australian in generous portions, with a few fusion dishes such as baby lamb fi llets in harissa sauce.

MIKE’S CHICKEN COMIDA DE PORTUGAL Portuguese Shop 43-45, G/F, Hoi Pong St., Sai Kung 2392-3328 Tue-Thu 11:30am-10pm; Fri-Sun 11am-10pm $$$

Mike’s sits on the Sai Kung old town waterfront, tucked between a line of seafood joints and a fish and chip shop. A nondescript exterior makes it tricky to fi nd in the midst of all the hustling seafood restos, but inside it’s a whole other world. You’ll see an array of all-day breakfasts alongside classic Portuguese dishes: We started with a tapas platter ($168 for four) with chorizo, chicken lollipops, bacalhau salt cod, and crispy and tender calamari, followed by a big bowl of mussels ($360 for four). We were wisely warned not to order too much if we were getting the roasted suckling pig ($880, order in advance). Served with Portuguese fried rice and deliciously crispy skin, it could easily have fed six to eight. Solid Portuguese dishes that are unpretentious and satisfying. Next time, we’ll check out the six-hour slow-cooked pork loin.

ONE-THIRTYONE French 131 Tseung Tau Village, Shap Sze Heung, Sai Kung 2791-2684 $$$$

EDITOR’S PICK

We love this place. A tiny restaurant seating a maximum of 20 people, it serves first-class modern French food in a gorgeous setting: a deep red village house with lawns leading down to pretty Th ree Fathoms Cove. Eat beneath a pergola in the sunshine, or cozy up in the charming, honey-hued dining room. The service is superb but it’s the food that really shines, every beautifully presented dish an exquisite combination of flavors prepared by chef Gary Cheuk using organic produce from the garden. Reservations essential; call ahead to discuss your preferences.

KWAI KEE CHIU CHOW RESTAURANT Chiu Chow Shop 12, G/F, 32 Hong Keung St., San Po Kong 2354-5533 Daily 4pm-1:30am $

Ask any San Po Konger what the most famous restaurant around is, and they’ll tell you “Kwai Kee, la!” Th is resto has been standing in San Po Kong for more than two decades, serving authentic Chiu Chow dishes to the neighborhood. Kwai Kee’s marinated goose is a dish you just can’t miss. The goose has rich layers of flavor and after hours of marinating is so tender it will almost melt in your mouth.

TAK LUNG RESTAURANT

SHA TIN 18

EDITOR’S

PICK Dongguan/ Peking Duck 4/F, Hyatt Regency HK, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin 3723-1234 Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-3pm, 5:30-10:30pm $$$

The Hyatt Regency in Sha Tin is tucked away in the far-off land of the New Territories and houses one of our favorite spots for Peking duck. We chose to go with a half Peking duck and had it cooked in two styles: pancakes with the skin, breast and leg meat, and wok-fried minced duck with iceberg lettuce. Both were bursting with flavor from the condiments and wraps, yet the deliciously juicy duck remained the star of the show. A personal favorite of ours is the braised sweet corn soup with chicken, because not only is the consistency perfectly smooth but the corn is also not too sweet.

Cantonese G/F, 25-29 Hong Keung St., San Po Kong 2320-7020 Daily 6am-11pm $

Tak Lung Restaurant has stood firm in San Po Kong for more than 40 years, serving ancient Chinese cuisine. Even though it serves traditional Cantonese dishes, most Hongkongers will be surprised by unusual plates such as Tai Yeh Chicken, which is smoked with pu-erh tea and cane sugar, or fish intestines baked with eggs. Menus are in Chinese only.

SHA TIN SCHOOL FOOD

SHATIN INN Indonesian 7.5 miles, Tai Po Road, Sha Tin 2691-1425 Daily noon-10pm, closed Tue $

The Shatin Inn has been around since the New Territories was nothing but rice fields. It is known for its Indonesian charcoal-grilled satays, for which people flock from miles away to sample. Virtually nothing from its interior has changed since its heyday in the 70s. The satays are as delicious as ever, with juicy, marinated chunks of meat, each bookended by a knob of crisping fat. Comes with ample free parking space, a garden, and sheer nostalgic value.

Korean Shop 107, 1/F, Phase 1, New Town Plaza, 18 Sha Tin Centre St., Sha Tin 2608-0108 Daily 11:30am-10:30pm $-$$

School Food’s first branch in Times Square is notorious for its long waits. You’d think that two extra spots would help spread the demand, but every branch of this hip Korean joint still demands a lengthy queue. Like the décor, every item on School Food’s menu is as wacky as the last. Try the hot carbonara topokki ($68)—a twist on the original spicy rice cake street food. The carbonara sauce had a nicely rounded flavor: sweet, with a gentle spicy kick. We mopped it up. The pan-grilled butter bibimbap with pickles ($82) was a favorite. Arriving in a large iron skillet topped with a fluff y scrambled egg, spicy pickles and pulled pork, the rice was sweet and buttery with those all-important delicious crispy bits at the bottom. Weird dishes can easily go wrong. The “chef’s choice” Spam Mari 2 ($62) was a Korean sushi roll made with spam and spicy pickles, rolled in mozzarella cheese and fried egg. We couldn’t taste the cheese, nor the spam, and the egg was flavorless. Other brow-furrowing dishes: a very dry bulgogi quesadilla ($62) and a chicken karaage ($28) fried chicken side dish with an overly chewy batter.

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TAI PO FOREST CAFÉ Café DD19 Lam Kam Rd., Tai Po 9869-0173 Tue-Sun 11am-9pm $$

NEW REVIEW

Located in a tranquil village in Tai Po, Forest Café is a seriously hidden gem—it’s not even listed on Openrice. With dandelions drift ing through the air and squirrels wandering past, this café in the woods is a great hideaway for a relaxing day. Coffee-expert-slash-owner City Ng held a quick consultation with us before making our own pour-over fi lter coffee ($35). The one we tried had a thick body, rich aroma, and slight bitterness without the acidity. While you’re waiting for mains, you can browse the collection of vinyl records and throw your own tunes on the record deck. For entrées, we tried the baked oysters with cheese, which were tasty and a pretty fair deal at $200 for six pieces. The chicken salad ($65) was a decent portion of tender meat scattered amongst crisp, fresh leaves—possibly made even more fresh by the clean air and woodsy surroundings. To get there, take bus 64K from Tai Po Market MTR Station and get off at Lam Tsuen San Tsuen. Forest Café is about a block away, next to Kwan Yik grocery store.

TSEUNG KWAN O LARDOS Steak G/F, 4B Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O 2719-8168 Mon-Fri noon-3pm, 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-10:30pm $$$

Opened in 2000, Lardos restaurant serves juicy marbled steaks, pastas and seafood in a no-frills environment. The signature dish is the beastly 16-ounce steak that will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. The restaurant is tiny and pretty busy on most nights, so book in advance if you plan to visit.

TUEN MUN FARMER RESTAURANT Cantonese Block C, Lam Tei Mei Ling Court, Castle Peak Rd., Tuen Mun 2461-4483 Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11:30pm; Sun 11:30am-3:30pm, 6-11pm $

Housed in a neat, architecturally distinct pastel green block in an ultra-low-rise community, the six-year-old restaurant dishes out countryside fare—farmers’ specialties that are particular to Lam Tei. At Farmer Restaurant, produce such as eggplants and leafy greens all come from the same

School Food

farm in nearby Fu Tei Village. Chef Yau sticks to signatures, such as the lotus leaf steamed tofu, a mild, saucy blend of diced velvety bean curd with corn, chopped prawns and green pepper. The five-colored rice is another specialty, consisting of steamed wheat grains, red grains, vinegar rice, sticky rice and black sticky rice, all mixed with white rice and a touch of salt, sugar and oil.

NAM KEE Dai Pai Dong Shop 1-5, G/F, Cooked Food Plaza, Sam Shing Estate, Tuen Mun 2451-1698 Daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm $

Nam Kee is one of the mainstays on the Sam Shing Estate circuit. Having been around for 20plus years, the restaurant has developed a stable following and a bunch of signature dishes that customers just know they need to order once they get here. Nam Kee doesn’t stock any of its own seafood, so you’ll need to go over to the outdoor seafood market and make your picks first—do ask proprietors Chan Chi-ming or Gary Wong for advice if you’re stuck (but make sure someone in your group speaks Cantonese). We recommend getting some jumbo prawns for Chef Lok to transform into a baked cheese dish (kinda like lobster thermidor).

RED SEASONS Chinese 1 Lam Tei Main St., Tuen Mun 2462-7038 Daily 4:30am-11pm $$

This dim sum-slash-siu mei (roast meat) restaurant was thrown into the spotlight in 2011 when it made

it into the venerable Michelin guide with a “bib gourmand” stamp of approval—meaning the food’s not just good, it’s also good value for money. The place is well-known for its roast suckling pig ($520) with crispy red skin, served whole (yes, including the head) with the body intact even though it’s cut into bite-sized pieces. It has just the right amount of crackling, and boasts juicy and tender meat.

YUEN LONG KEI KEE DESSERT Snacks/Desserts Shop 7, Chi Fu Centre, 56 Yau Sun St., Yuen Long 2479-4743 Daily 12:30pm-2:30am $

A Yuen Long staple that’s long been known for its Chinese-style desserts and dai pai dong snacks. While we’re not crazy in love with the signature grass jelly—they’re black, nondescript, wobbly bittersweet cubes like you can get at any Chinese dessert shop, in our humble opinion—we do make a point of dropping by for Kei Kee’s streetside snacks and drinks. We went for a generous helping of curry fish balls, radish and steamed cheung fun. We dove into the compact fishballs and chunky white radish pieces soaked in a spicy, watery curry sauce. While the fishballs were awesome, the radish unfortunately hadn’t spent as much time in the broth. The cheung fun that came next was a sloppy mess of fi nger-length rice rolls drenched in sweet, soy, peanut and chili sauces. It hit all the right notes on our tastebuds and we would happily go back for more. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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ZONE H Southside

ABERDEEN

AP LEI CHAU

JUMBO KINGDOM

ARTICHOKE CANTEEN

Chinese Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen 2553-9111 Daily 11am-4pm, 5-11pm $$

Western 3/F, Rm 311, Harbour Industrial Centre, 10 Lee Hing St., Ap Lei Chau 2580-0293 Wed-Sun noon-10pm $$$

Fun, festive and a Hong Kong institution, the Jumbo has been floating in Aberdeen harbor for nearly 40 years. It’s not going to be the best Chinese meal you’ve ever had, but the dim sum is not bad, the seafood dishes are pretty good and the atmosphere is fun.

MYANMAR THAI PALACE Burmese/Thai G/F, Shop 5, 108 Old Main St., Aberdeen 2870-2080 Daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-11:30pm $

While Macau is home to a small enclave of Burmese restos, Hong Kong doesn’t share its sister SAR’s gastronomic fortune. A stroke of luck, then, is what brought us across this eatery in Aberdeen, at the end of our search for a restaurant that didn’t float. A “hot and sour” Thai beef salad was generous on the char-grilled beef, with spicy soft tomato and crisp onions to counteract the burn. A huge plate of daily special vegetables cooked in garlic was enough to be a main on its own. A Burmese beef brisket curry came in a clay pot, bubbling over a lump of charcoal. It was delicious: tender beef in a rich dark yellow sauce, with less tomato than most Indian curries and more peppery, earthy turmeric than a Malaysian one.

EDITOR’S PICK

Hidden away in an industrial building in Ap Lei Chau is diner-slash-art-gallery Artichoke Canteen. Designed to offer its diners a full sensory experience, it produces creative dishes from all corners of the world—get everything from grilled veggies and stone-oven-baked pizza to pastas and green pea cappuccinos.

POK FU LAM NAM FONG Cantonese 3/F, Le Meridien Cyberport, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam 2980-7410 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm; Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm $$$

Enjoy Cantonese dishes and quality dim sum at modern Chinese restaurant Nam Fong. The décor fuses 1960s chic and the futuristic, with a high ceiling and stunning view of the South China sea. Its extensive menu boasts plenty of Cantonese classics, as well as weekend all-you-can-eat dim sum, special seasonal or occasional menus, and organic dishes sans MSG. Perfect for big group dinners with family, friends or colleagues.

PROMPT International 4/F, Le Meridien Cyberport, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam 2980-7417 Daily 6:30am-10:30pm $$$

There’s a little bit of everything from all over the world at Prompt, ranging from soupy noodles and burgers to pizza and pasta. One of us went with the ultimate beef burger with a fried egg on top, while another chose light and ordered a pomelo prawn salad. The burger was a bright and colorful combination with a big fat slab of juicy meat patty in the middle. The pomelo salad was sharp and refreshing, with just the right amount of savory and crunchy bits mixed in to keep things interesting—although the single prawn on the side was a bit miserly.

REPULSE BAY LIMEWOOD

Limewood

EDITOR’S

PICK Barbecue Shop 103/104, The Pulse, 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay 2866-8668 Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sun noon-4pm, 6-9:30pm $$$

Southside resto Limewood brings a Californiastyle experience to Repulse Bay’s new The Pulse mall. Mixing southern American, Caribbean and Southeast Asian flavors, you can expect a sophisticated BBQ menu, craft beers, cocktails and frozen margaritas, plus 180-degree beachside views. As a Maximal Concepts venture, you can bet it’s all about the food here: think Hawaiian-roasted pig leg with ginger, orange marinade and pineapple salsa; charred whole sea bass with charred limes, chimichurri, tamarind and nuoc cham sauce; and Vietnamese fish tacos with lime aioli and Asian slaw. You’ll also find rosé wine imported from France and 12 different wines served by the glass.

SHOKU

NEW

REVIEW Japanese Grill Shop 109, The Pulse Shopping Mall, 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay 2808-2333 Mon-Thu noon-10:30pm; Fri-Sat noon-11pm; Sun 11:30am-10pm $$$

The sister restaurant of Kishoku in Causeway Bay, Shoku serves up grilled meats and seafood from a traditional Japanese binchotan charcoal grill—the focal point of the breezy beachside restaurant. Sip on Japanese-inspired cocktails infused with shochu and sake while feasting on plates of grilled wagyu short ribs, whole fish and sashimi. We also particularly enjoyed the appetizer selection, with a plump and meaty tofu-sesame salad, and a fresh whole sliced avocado with mixed leaves in a shoyu dressing. The restaurant is a great place to stop over from an afternoon at the beach for a refresher, or book out the private room for a more fine dining dinner experience.

SPICES Southern Asian G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay 2292-2821 Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-10:30pm $$$

This Repulse Bay Southern Asian stalwart is housed in a beautiful colonial-style building and comes with a spacious outdoor terrace perfect for the summer weather—just remember to bring mosquito repellent. The atmosphere is the main draw here. The inside is an elegant, air-conditioned affair, with dark wood floors and furniture. We went for a midday meal and enjoyed our charcoalgrilled satay skewers, which were nice, juicy and generously sized. Thai-style fried noodles were flavorful, and oiled high with sesame seeds and fresh herbs. When it comes to quiet, seaside dining, Spices is as good as it gets in Hong Kong.

THE OCEAN Japanese/European Shop 303-304, 3/F, The Pulse, 28 Beach Rd., Repulse Bay 2889-5939 Mon-Sun 12:30-2:30pm, 6:30-10pm $$$$

NEW REVIEW

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SOUTHSIDE

STANLEY ANGELETTI RESTAURANT Italian G/F, 126 Stanley Main St., Stanley 2813-9090 Daily 11:30am-9:30pm $$

This tucked-away resto has been operating in Stanley for over a decade. Elderly servers talked us through the ingredients, the fishes and the history of the restaurant. The spring chicken from France was tender and spiced perfectly.

PINOT DUCK Chinese Shop G07, Stanley Plaza, G/F, 23 Carmel Rd., Stanley 2772-0060 Daily noon-10pm $$-$$$

The Ocean

With different hues of blue making up the sea-inspired gorgeous décor, The Ocean is here to make a statement. Dress to impress and get your camera phones ready to photograph the artfully presented food that is almost too pretty to eat. The Ocean offers two distinct dining experiences—a sushi counter helmed by former Sushi Ta-ke chef Yukio Kimijima serving up delicate omakase menus, and à la carte service with modern seafood dishes plated by executive chef Agustin Balbi. Sitting at the umi bar is a treat as chef Kimijima serves up bite after bite of jet-fresh sushi and sashimi, although expect prices to reflect not just the premium quality of the fish, but also the exquisite setting from the neon-lit jellyfish-filled aquariums right down to the Hermès tableware. If you prefer chef Balbi’s degustation, cozy up on one of the jewel-toned sofas and feast on dishes such as sous-vide turbot with cauliflower textures and homemade tofu and uni in ponzu sauce. The food is thoughtful, the plating artistic, and the atmosphere unbeatable for a date night under the sea.

SHEK O BLACK SHEEP Western G/F, Shek O Village, 330 Shek O Village Rd., Shek O 2809-2021 Mon-Fri 6:30am-11:30pm; Sat-Sun noon-11:30pm $$$

Despite its relatively remote location, Black Sheep is a well-known restaurant among Hong Kong foodies thanks to its laid-back atmosphere,

great food and—yup!—unique psychedelic lighting. We ordered four of Black Sheep’s famous pizzas. While both the prawn and the cheese pizzas were mouth-watering, the Jungle Pizza proved to be the favorite. Topped with pineapple and good-quality ham, the pizza’s deliciousness could only be rivaled by its alluring looks. But our love for the food can’t be extended to its prices, which just don’t match the venue’s hippie vibe. Charging $150-170 for a small-sized pizza and $100 for a green salad, Black Sheep is kind of pushing the limits. We would love to go back again—but if we’re not in Shek O, there are closer restaurants of similar quality and price.

SHEK O CHINESE AND THAI RESTAURANT Thai G/F, 303 Shek O Village Rd., Shek O 2809-4426 Daily 11am-10pm $

This half open-air run-of-the-mill village restaurant doesn’t look very special from the outside—with its plastic chairs and rolls of toilet paper on the tables passing for napkins—but it’s a firm favorite among weekend warriors and Southside regulars. The high notes of our meal were definitely the deep fried dishes, such as deep fried fish with sweet and sour sauce and the amazing prawn cakes, as they were crisp and light while maintaining the freshness of the seafood. Other memorable dishes include the flavorful baked vermicelli noodles with huge and meaty prawns, the pineapple fried rice, the garlicky morning glory and fried tofu.

NEW REVIEW

The latest offering by the Nha Trang Group serves duck in all sorts of variations alongside pinot varietal wines. Peking-style crepes ($68) were filled with juicy pink meat attached to crispy brown skins. Hand-pulled duck banh mi ($88) with fresh cucumber and carrot slices was also a hit. Pricing was inconsistent and the wine selection wasn’t wallet-friendly, with only two bottles of red for under $400.

WONG CHUK HANG CIRQLE Western 4/F, Ovolo Southside, 64 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang 3460-8157 Wed-Sun noon-3pm, 6-11pm $$$$

We highly recommend the crab cakes and the key lime pie—it’s not every day you see one of these on a Hong Kong menu. Plus, the big terrace is ideal for cooler nights, as is rooftop bar Above.

GCX Italian Shop G09, G/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang 2528-0772 Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm $$

An all-in-one restaurant, café, and shop, GCX not only serves home-style Italian dishes but also stocks an extensive range of take-home goods. All dishes are made with ingredients from Italy, and there’s a wide selection of gourmet food products.

MUM Vegetarian Shop G-07, G/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang 2115-3348 Sun-Fri 8am-5pm $

Mum serves predominantly Asian fare like steamed rice with eggplant or udon noodles in soup, as well as western fare like a pasta dish and green tea chiffon cakes. RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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ZONE I Outlying Islands

Tai O Lookout

LANTAU ISLAND CAFÉ ISARA

CHINA BEACH CLUB Mediterranean 18 Tung Wan Tau Rd., Lantau Island 2983-8931 Fri-Sun noon-10pm $$ NEW

REVIEW Thai Shop 3, G/F, Scenic Crest, 18A Mui Wo Ferry Pier Rd., Lantau Island 2470-1966 Mon, Wed-Fri noon-midnight; Sat-Sun 9am-midnight $$

A new venue in Mui Wo to add culinary options to tried and tested favorites such as Bahce Turkish restaurant and China Bear pub was long overdue, and the opening of Café Isara is a welcome addition to the local scene. The Thai theme is also smart thinking, lending the space a chilled tropical vibe that’s enhanced by a long bar, rustic furnishings and a pool table. We liked the fishcakes ($65) which had a satisfying texture, and tom yum soup ($55) which was rich and generously prawned. Minced pork with basil ($98), unusually served with pasta, was bursting with zingy, herby goodness, as was our glass noodle salad ($68), with prawns, mincemeat and coriander. Deep fried sweet and sour fish ($88) was meaty, tangy and moreish.

NEW REVIEW

With a large upstairs terrace offering fabulous views of the bay, a funky, laid-back space and generous portions of great food, this al fresco bar and grill is one of Lantau’s best-kept secrets. Housed in the old Lifesaving Association building, the current owners have been serving up Mediterranean and BBQ since 2002. The house specialty surf and turf (ribeye steak and king prawns) is legendary but we’ve had it before, so instead opted for moussaka ($175) which ticked all the right boxes, overflowing with beautifully seasoned minced lamb, tomatoes and eggplant.

MAVERICKS Western Pui O Beach, Lantau Island 5662-8552 Fri 5-11:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11:30pm $$

The pair behind Mavericks, Jay FC and chef Austin Fry, have had a hand in hotspots Salon No. 10, Stone Nullah Tavern and Homegrown Foods. And now they’ve joined forces to create a relaxed getaway for those who love delicious food, craft beers from around the world, and great music spun by local DJs.

SOLERA Spanish Shop 101, 1/F, D Deck, Discovery Bay, Lantau 2555-0772 Tue-Sun noon-11pm $$

Discovery Bay doesn’t exactly leap to mind when you think of dining meccas, but Solera, sitting in a quiet first-floor location in DB Plaza, serves up Spanish bites with a mostly authentic feel. Grilled sardines ($55) were simply cooked and delicious, with a crispy char and juicy flesh, a salty skin perfectly undercut with a squeeze of lemon. Gambas al ajillo ($92) were plump prawns swimming in deliciously garlicky olive oil, which we were happy to mop up with bread. Slowcooked angus beef cheek ($118) was superb: rich, fall-apart-in-your-mouth morsels of fantastic meat, topped with a hint of sharp gooseberry chutney. We skipped the paella and went for chicken meloso ($218): a huge cast iron pot of soupy rice, full of chicken and suff used with a truffle aroma that burst out of the pot when it was opened at the table. Ladled out, it was a warm, rich, very truffly dish that we happily dug into. Our only disappointment was in the chorizo dishes. Chorizo in cider ($75) did nothing special, while the chorizo with 63-degree egg on fried potato ($62) was oily. Other than that, Solera might just be our favorite DB restaurant.

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OUTLYING ISLANDS

TACO CHACA Mexican Shop 9, G/F, Mui Wo Center, 3 Nang Wan Rd., Lantau Island 5463-3063 Daily noon-10pm $$

NEW REVIEW

With a branch in Sai Ying Pun and a more recent outlet opening in Mui Wo, Taco Chaca is mining a rich seam of desire for decent, fast, street-style Tex-Mex that’s high on taste and value and low on restaurant aesthetics. A basic eatery that eschews décor in favor of flavor, we enjoyed pretty much everything, from a carnitas (pulled pork) enchilada ($68) which was delicious, to the Mexican rice ($22) which was good, to the refried beans ($24) which were great. Portions were sensibly sized and everything had a satisfying zing, enhanced by coriander and salsa verde. The margaritas were tasty but at almost $70 a pop weren’t cheap by Mui Wo standards.

TAI O LOOKOUT International Tai O Heritage Hotel, Shek Tsai Po St., Tai O, Lantau Island 2985-8383 Daily 7:30am-9:30pm $$

Holed up on the western edge of Lantau, Tai O Lookout serves international fare in a gorgeous glass-rooted restaurant that used to be the old police station’s guard tower. The interiors and views here earn auto bonus points. We appreciated the fresh, well-seasoned barramundi ($198), which was lightly pan-fried with a healthy side of seasonable vegetables and crispy, roasted potatoes.

ZAKS European G04, GF, D Deck, Discovery Bay Plaza, Lantau Island 2987-6232 Daily 8am-11pm $$

EDITOR’S PICK

We’d heard a lot of good things about Zaks from the DB crowd and so, fi nally, we boarded a ferry to give it a try. And boy, were we impressed. Set over two levels, including a whopping 5,000-square-foot terrace overlooking the beach, it’s a contemporary space serving seafood, steaks, burgers and modern European and Asian-influenced dishes—not unlike its sister restaurants in the Castelo Concepts group. While Zaks might not serve the best seafood in town, it’s up there given the price range. Try the king prawns, grilled in sea salt with mashed potato, or the seafood risotto—sweet seafood on a heaping portion of creamy risotto. No wonder some DB folk are practically living there.

LAMMA ISLAND B&B SEAVIEW RESTAURANT Western 22 Main St., Yung Shue Wan, Lamma 2982-4388 Daily 11:30am-10:30pm $

We went to B&B (it stands for “Beer & Babble”, if anyone’s curious) after noticing a comfortablesized crowd of people sitting down for dinner. Food included pasta and red meat dishes—along with plenty of seafood, naturally. One of our mains, spaghetti with beef strips, tasted more like a regular fried noodle dish than spaghetti, and was pretty meh. We loved our second main, though: a squid ink pasta with seafood and creamy wasabi sauce. It was loaded up with fresh and tasty shrimp, oysters and fish, and the wasabi sauce gave it a nice, yet subtle, kick.

BOOKWORM Cafe 79 Main St., Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island 2982-4838 Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun noon-9pm $$

Some people come for the atmosphere, some to skim books on how to reconcile Buddhism and Freud. The menu is practically a novel, with popular dishes including the super-healthy vegan salad bowl, shepherd’s pie and delicious mango cheesecake. You can order organic fruit drinks, or teas ranging from South African rooibos (non-caffeinated and believed to prevent cancer) to South American mate tea. Alfresco dining, wireless broadband and internet available.

GREEN COTTAGE Vegetarian G/F, 26 Main St., Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island 2982-6934 Daily 6:30am-5:30pm $

Zaks

If you need a break from all of Lamma Island’s seafood restaurants, Green Cottage is a safe bet. Run by a pair of brothers, this vegetarian café is great for islanders and tourists alike. The menu is comprehensive, serving up everything from

pizzas to pastas, brunch to burgers—all in sizeable portions. We tried the Greek salad, which was tossed with juicy tomatoes, cucumbers, big bites of feta and a tangy dressing. The veggie pizza was decent too, with a nice crispy crust, and chunky mushrooms and onions. Fresh smoothies were good—we tried one with a tasty combo of orange, carrot and zesty ginger.

RAINBOW SEAFOOD Chinese G/F, 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma 2982-8100 Daily 11am-11pm $$$-$$$$

This open-air waterfront spot has been around since 1984 and is arguably Lamma’s most famous establishment. It’s easily reachable via the free ferry to and from Central, Tsim Sha Tsui or Aberdeen (call ahead to book). Rainbow overlooks a quiet bay, the seafood is just so fresh and the servers, once you sit down, are attentive. Our favorite included the small yet meaty steamed lobsters with garlic sauce, the steamed scallops with garlic and vermicelli and—hands down the winner of the night—the sweet and messy grilled prawns with honey and pepper sauce. We had to order seconds. Rainbow is a perfect place to take out-of-towners, large groups or even a dinner date. Just stick to the set menus (a good two-person set goes for $558) and hold firm for a table by the waterfront.

PENG CHAU HOI HING LONG RESTAURANT

NEW REVIEW

Chinese 39 Wing On St., Peng Chau 2983-0600 Daily 11am-10pm $

Hoi Hing Long is a small cha chaan teng that most travelers to Peng Chau would pass over, given the more attractive- seeming seafood restaurants that line the streets. But the locals certainly don’t do seafood everyday, and it was a Peng Chau native who brought us to HHL for a casual weekend meal. We let the regular do most of the ordering, and devoured plate after plate of no-frills wok-treated dishes, from a generous and meaty black bean bitter melon spare ribs combo ($60), to a savory morning glory dish stir-fried with homemade balachan sauce ($60). The deepfried spicy salt squid ($70) was fried to a golden crisp and not overly greasy, the fried noodles with beef slices ($40) a perfect balance of sauce, meat and carbs. The space does get crowded, and there might be some jostling for elbow room around the table. But that’s more of a general cha chaan teng problem than anything specific. You might also need to wait a bit for a table if you come during peak hours. Next time you’re in Peng Chau and don’t feel like a seafood feast, do as the locals do and eat at Hoi Hing Long.

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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TASTE TEMPTATIONS You Simply Can’t Resist

BINDAAS ~ INDIAN ‘TAPAS’ BAR & RESTAURANT IN CENTRAL

BREAD STREET KITCHEN & BAR — POWER LUNCH

Bindaas = ‘chilled out’ and ‘carefree’. Trace the cultural origins of what India eats through a selection of traditional fare, all with a unique contemporary twist. Snack on popular street food from different nooks of India while sipping a signature craft cocktail or fine wine in a cool, Bindaas setting.

Recharge your batteries at lunchtime with our super special power lunch!

Bindaas Bar + Kitchen, LG/F, 33 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong hello@iambindaas.com 2447-9998

HARLAN’S 10TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION — NEW GRAND MENU Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Harlan’s will be hosting an array of celebrations that will unite all new diners and our loving fans. The celebrations kick off with a buy-1-get-1-free happy hour offer and a new menu that covers appetizers, pasta and main course, giving diners a real enjoyable dining experience. Harlan’s L19, The ONE, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 2972-2222

Delight in our 2 course, $188 or super-powered 3 course, $278 menus - Monday to Friday. Join our chop card promotion, 8 chops and earn a FREE lunch with our compliments.

TWO LAKSAS UNDER ONE ROOF You can now satisfy your cravings for both authentic Singapore Laksa and Penang Assam Laksa, in Hong Kong, under one roof at Café Malacca. Singapore Laksa is a rich coconutbased spicy soup noodle while the Malaysian Penang Assam Laksa, is a tangy and spicy fishbased soup noodle. If indecision hits, try both!

M/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong bsk@diningconcepts.com www.diningconcepts.com 2230-1800

Level 2, Hotel Jen Hong Kong, 508 Queen’s Road West, Western District (Exit B2 of HKU Station), 2213-6613

CAFÉ D MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH BUFFET

BB’S EUROPEAN CUISINE

Enjoy the Mother’s Day Brunch Buffet with free flow house wine at Café D at $320 per adult, featuring endless traditional brunch favourites, seafood specialties and tempting desserts. Chinese Tasting Set Dinner from $480 per person is also available; recommendations include Stirfried Organic Tiger Prawn on Steamed Egg White and Roasted Cod Fillet with Teriyaki Sauce and Pan-fried Spring Onion. Lobby Level, Kowloon Harbourfront Hotel, 8 Hung Luen Road, Hung Hom Bay

Europe is known for its variety of landscapes and cultures, from breath-taking coastlines to beautiful mountains and plains, from Vikings to Roman. The spectacular scenery and historical background also gives inspiration and diverse gastronomical heritage to Chefs and regions. Let’s take a culinary journey from Nordics to Naples across the souls of the continent at BB’s. 6/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, mhihk.com

2186-9091

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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016 PROMOTION

SAVOUR THE AUTHENTIC TASTE OF BEIJING Head Chef Tony Lam of Dong Lai Shun (Causeway Bay) showcases traditional Beijing recipes. Diners can enjoy a tour of classic dishes, such as Mashed Yam and Blueberry Sauce, Stir-fried Mutton with Scrambled Eggs and Fried Mutton Slices with Apricot in Sweet and Sour Sauce. 26/F, Soundwill Plaza 2 – Midtown, 1 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Book now by calling 2763-7038

CHILLING OUT AT THE WATERFRONT OF SOHO EAST At Sai Wan Ho SOHO east, you will find vibrant wining and dining as well as a unique sense of tranquility. Trendy restaurants, bars, pubs and café’s cater to every taste – while offering waterfront views and sea breezes. Download SOHO east mobile app now to know more about SOHO east and enjoy the food offers.

A DATE WITH KAISEKI RYORI — A UNIQUE SENSORY EXPERIENCE AT “UEDA” With extraordinary culinary skills and 20 years of experience, Chef Ueda Kenji believes that each and every encounter creates an opportunity for diners to go on a “date” with the food. Cuisine at “UEDA” combines the superb cooking techniques of Kaiseki Ryori and a variety of creative ingredients, creating a unique experience of senses. 3/F, Stanley 11, 11 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong, 2327-4482

THE GRAND TEA TIME Spoil yourself and loved ones with finely selected pastries and savory delights. Available from 3 April, the classic 3-tier set includes creative savouries like Hainan chicken maki, and fun Laksa rice cake with prawn, also traditional sweets like English scones and macaroons and signature lemon cheesecake with strawberry coulis. 62/F Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, 2506-0888 / 2506-0666

WHEN HERITAGE MEETS COSMOPOLITAN AT J SENSES Nestled in the heart of Wanchai, J Senses is a unique dining and lifestyle complex where history is honoured and modernity is embraced. This impressive salute to profound history and cosmopolitan lifestyle is all set to tantalize your senses with an exquisite selection of international gourmet foods, local delicacies, cafés and even alfresco dining. So, what are you waiting for? Visit jsenses.com.hk to learn more about J Senses

LONDON HOUSE — SPORTSMAN’S LUNCH BREAK Grab a great lunch and catch some great sports all at the same time in Alfresco Lane, Tsim Sha Tsui East. Join us at London House for our Sportsman’s Special Lunch - 2 courses $158 or choose our famous Fish & Chips at $198! Lunch chop card promotion – get 8 chops and earn a FREE lunch. G5, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, East Tsim Sha Tsui London.house@diningconcepts.com or 3650-3333

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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INDEX

238

Cheng Banzhang Taiwan Delicacy

Gateway Cuisine

22 Ships

Che’s Cantonese Restaurant

Gaucho

121BC

Chibee Chicken and Beer

Gaylord

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Chicken N Egg

GCX

Chicken on the Run

Giando

Chico Chica

Glasshouse

Chili Club

Gong Guan

China Beach Club

Gonpachi

China Kitchen

Grand Central Bar & Grill

Cho Leung Zi

Grand Hyatt Steakhouse

Chôm Chôm

Grassroots Pantry

Chuen Cheung Kui

Greater China Club

Ciak

Green Cottage

Ciao Chow

Grissini

Cirqle

Cocotte

Comptoir

Crafty Cow

Crystal Thai Restaurant

Cucina

Cuisine Cuisine (Central)

Cuisine Cuisine (TST)

A Aberdeen Street Social

Above & Beyond

Agnes B. Le Pain Grillé

Alibi

Amber

Amigo Restaurant

Ammo

An Chun Shandong Dumpling

An Nam

Angeletti Restaurant

Anthony’s Ranch

Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar

Aqua

Arashiyama

Artichoke Canteen

Australia Dairy Company

B B&B Seaview Restaurant

Ba Yi

Bao Bao King Lo Chiu

Beef & Liberty

BÊP Vietnamese Kitchen

Bibo

Bindaas

Bistro Du Vin

Black Sheep

Blueduck Workshop

Bo Innovation Bocadito Bookworm

Boomshack

Braza

Brick Lane

Burger Circus

H Hanjan

Hawker 18

Herbivores

HeSheEat

High Street Cart Noodle

Ho Lee Fook

Hoi Hing Long Restaurant

Hoi King Heen

Dalin Pocha

Hotpot Instinct

DanDan Soul Food from Sichuan

Hugo’s

Darrie Go! Noodles

Hutong

Delhi Club

DK Cuppa Tea Café

Doppio Zero

Duddell’s

E El Fishawy

El Loco Gringo

Épure

I Inagiku Japanese Restaurant

Inakaya

Indonesian Sate House

Island Tang

Izakaya 88

J Jade Garden

Jang Dok Korean Restaurant

64 72

Fairyland

Jaspas

Famous Dim Sum

Jinjuu

Farmer Restaurant

Judy’s Authentic Yunnan Delicacies

Feast

Jules Bistro

Fish & Chick

Jumbo Kingdom

Café Deco Bar & Grill

Fish and Meat

Café Isara

Fish School

Café Malacca

Flame at Towngas Avenue

Café Siam

Flames Charcoal Chicken

Caprice

Flint Grill & Bar

Carbone

Flying Pig Bistro

Catalunya

Forest Café

Catch on Catchick

Forte

Cat’s Eye

Foxtail & Broomcorn

Celebrity Cuisine

Friendship Thai Food

Celestial Court

Fung Shing Restaurant

Chachawan

Chao’s Hotpotter

Chau Kee

K Kakurega Ramen Factory

Kazuo Okada

Kei Kee Dessert

Kenjo

Khana Khazana

Kichi

Kikusan

Kin’s Kitchen

Kokomi

Kowloon Tang

Kozy Okonomi-yaki Teppan-yaki

Gaddi’s

K-Roll

Gaia Ristorante

Kwai Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant

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INDEX

L La Cantoche

La Paloma

Sam’s Cook

Nadaman

San Xi Lou

Nam Ah 1964

Saravana Bhavan

La Rotisserie

Nam Fong

Sawali Club

La Saison by Jacques Barnachon

Nam Kee

School Food

La Vache

NamKeeH

Seasalt

Lardos

Namo

Seasons By Olivier E.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Nan Tei

Seoul Bros

Lawry’s The Prime Rib

New York Club

Serge et le Phoque

Le Bistro Winebeast

Ngau Saam Gun

Seventh Son

Le Blanc

Nobu

Sha Tin 18

Le Garçon Saigon

Nom Nom Dumpling

Shang Palace

Le Port Parfumé

Northern Dumpling Yuan

Shang Shang Shanghai Cuisine

Lin Heung Kui

Nosh

Shanghai Wing Wah Restaurant

Linguini Fini

Shatin Inn

Little Bao

Lobster and Mussels

Lobster Bar and Grill

London House

Loong Toh Yuen

Lung Yue Restaurant

M Madam S’ate

Mak Mak

Mak Ming Noodles

Main St. Deli

Maizuru

Ma’s Restaurant

Mekiki No Ginji

Made in HK

Mama San

Man Mo Café

Man Sing

Man Wah

Manchurian Candidate

Mavericks

Megan’s Kitchen

Merhaba

Metropolitain

Shek O Chinese and Thai Restaurant

Olala Yat Wun Mien

Shiki Zen

On Dining Kitchen & Lounge

Shiro

One Harbour Road

Shoku

One-ThirtyOne

Shugetsu

Ore-No Kappou

Sichuan House

Osteria Felice

Sing Yin

Social Place

Sogno Café

O Delice!

P Padang Indonesia Restaurant

Palette

Papillon Caffe

Peking Garden

Pho Yummee

Phukets Thai

Pinot Duck

Pirata

Pivo Czech Bar

Pololi

Pop It

Popsy Modern Kitchen

Primal Cut

Prompt

Q Qi House of Sichuan

Mic Kitchen

Mido Cafe

Mike’s Chicken Comida de Portugal

Ming Court

Missy Ho’s

Momojein

Morihachi Yakiniku

Morton’s of Chicago

Mott 32

Mr and Mrs Fox

Mrs. Pound

Mum

Mutekiya

Sabah Malaysian Cuisine

Myanmar Thai Palace

Myung Ga

Rainbow Seafood

Rakuen

Red Seasons

Restaurant Akrame

Restoration

Rockabilly

Ronin

Sohofama

Soi 7

Solera

Spices

Spicy Andong

Spoil Cafe

SPOON by Alain Ducasse

Spring Moon

Steak Frites by The Butcher’s Club

Steak House Wine Bar & Grill

Stone Nullah Tavern

Sun Hing Chang Restaurant

Supergiant

Sushi Kuu

Sushi Tokumi

Tabibito Table 18

Taco Chaca

Tai O Lookout

Tai Wing Wah

Tai Ye Chicken

Tak Lung Restaurant

Tang2

Tao

Tap – The Ale Project

Tartine

Tate

Sabatini

Tea Saloon by Another Fine Day

Sahara Mezz bar

Tenku Ryugin

Saint-Germain

Tfvsjs Café

Ruamjai Thai Restaurant

Rustico

RESTAURANT GUIDE 2016

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INDEX

Thai Basil

Tin Lung Heen

Wong Chun Chun

Thai Chiu

Tipping Point

Woo Tung Yakiniku Dining Bar

Wooloomooloo Prime

Thai Delicious Canteen

Tokyo Agura

Thai Hut

Top Grade Hot Pot

Thai On High

Townhouse

Thai Som Tum

Traditional Beijing Dumpling House

The Big Bite

Trattoria Queen Hollywood

The Chinnery

Tung Po Seafood

The Cupping Room

The Diner

The Drunken Duck

The Grand Buffet

The Krug Room

The Lot on Possession

The News Room Diner

The Night Market

The Nile

The Ocean

The Pawn

The Pierside

The Saint

The Square

The Sweet Dynasty

Tim Ho Wan

U Ueda

U-Hang

Under Bridge Spicy Crab

Upper Modern Bistro

X Xia Fei

Xiao Wang Beef Noodle

Xoco

Y Yagura

Yakiniku Great

Yardbird

Yat Tung Heen

Yau Sum

Ye Shanghai

Vanimal

Yoshi Yoshi

Vea

Youka

VeggiesSF

Yu Raku Tei

Verde Mar

Viet Kitchen

W Wa-En Yakiniku

Wafﬂing Beans

Wing Kee

Z Zaks

Zenpachi

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