HK Magazine #1093, Apr 24 2015

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HK M AGA ZINE NO. 1093 FRIDAY, A pril 24, 2015 w w w.hk-magazine.com

Fragrant Harbour Nose around the scents of the city

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PAGE 3 8 COVER STORY

Aromas sweet and sour: smelling the SAR Here’s a new game we’ve been playing called

Racial Sensitivity with Regina Ip

“Racial Sensitivity with Regina Ip!” How does it work?

Simple. You just write a column on the following hotbutton subjects, including the following horrendous sentiments. It’s fun for the whole family!

Filipinos, Get Your Lascivious Hands Off Our Men This one has already been written but just to recap: Apparently, all Filipino helpers are jezebel seductresses who ensnare Western employers with their dusky sexual wiles. They seemingly are able to do this by taking advantage of their position of financial inequality and perceived second-class status in Hong Kong society.

How dare the international media suggest that they are victims? The uppity slags!

Foreign Forces, Return to Your Various Countries of Origin All foreign forces are inciting the whole of Hong Kong to stir up trouble and talk too much about democracy, and so should be sent back to where they came from. Unless they are working in the service industry. Those people can stay, because who else is going to bring Regina her iced lemon tea at the Hong Kong Club?

Anson Chan, I Hate You Let’s Stop Talking About Filipinos All the Time Why are we talking about the Filipinos contantly? Why don’t we discuss the Indonesians instead? They don’t make such a—oh, Erwiana was Indonesian? Well, why is everyone still talking about Erwiana anyway? That was ages ago. Move on already, international media.

Gweilos, Go Home White people have had their shot. They are all pastyskinned, rabble-rousing troublemakers standing between Regina Ip and overwhelming popularity. It is nothing to do with Regina’s stunning talent for saying exactly the wrong thing all the time, just as everyone has forgotten about the last time she said something heinous.

How come everyone loves Anson Chan and loathes Regina Ip? What is this, Opposite Day?

17 shopping

Mainlanders, You’re OK Really All mainlanders are lovely, wonderful people who should be welcomed into our country with open arms.

So what if they occasionally put undue stress on the Hong Kong economy, deforming it to the point where residents find it harder to get by? So what if their standards of personal hygiene occasionally don’t fall into step with the by-laws of the Mass Transit Railway Corporation? It’s just part of the rich tapestry of Chinese culture. Vote Regina 2017!

Perfect gifts for the gent in your life

19 escape routes

Shaoxing’s finest bites

20

Who’s in charge?

Editor-in-Chief Luisa Tam Managing Editor Daniel Creffield Editor Adam White Features Editor Kate Springer Senior Associate Editor Adele Wong Online & Social Media Manager Katie Kenny Staff Writers Andrea Lo, Charlotte Mulliner,

Evelyn Lok, Isabelle Hon Contributing Photographer Kirk Kenny

Director of Sales Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director Jan Cheng Senior Sales Manager Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager Kent Ma Advertising Managers Dominic Lucien Brettell Advertising Executives Bonita Yung, Celia Wong,

Harriette Cheung, Lamy Lam Advertising & Marketing Coordinator Yan Man

Production Manager Blackie Hui Art Director Pierre Pang Senior Graphic Designer Mike Hung Graphic Designers Elaine Tang,

dish

Finance Manager Karen Tsang Senior Accountant Alex Fung, Freda Chau Internal Compliance Officer Lucy Wong Accountant Winson Yip Assistant Accountant Coa Wong, Edwin Lee Administrator Olivia Ma I.T. Manager Derek Wong Web Developer Timothy Cheng Messenger Li Sau-king

Bean there, done that: Hong Kong’s best coffee

27

Cover by Pierre Pang

open bar

This is a Djiboutii call

Ryan Chan, Tammy Tan Production Supervisor Kelly Cheung

Where to find us!

HK Magazine Media Ltd. 302 Hollywood Centre 233 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2850-5065 Fax: 852-2543-1880 E-mail: hk@hkmagmedia.com Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising content in our magazine. The content in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.

HK Magazine is published 52 times a year by HK Magazine Media Ltd., GPO Box 12618, Hong Kong. Copyright 2015 HK Magazine Media Ltd. The title “HK Magazine,” its associated logos or devices, and the content of HK Magazine are the property of HK Magazine Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for HK$30 each. HK Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of HK Magazine Media Ltd. Contact the Advertising Director for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in HK Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, N.T.

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“Child 44” is thilling fun, despite the cheesy accents

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Outgoing DAB chairman Tam Yiu-chung HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 3

mailbag Mr. Know-It-All’s Guide to Life Dear Mr. Know-It-All, What exactly is a godown? I see them all around the industrial districts of Hong Kong. – Downtown Funk It’s simple: “godown” is a Hong Kong word

than anything else. With plenty of godown

for warehouse.

companies still scattered all over Hong

The word conjures up an image: a colonial icon in a white suit and pith

Kong, the word thrives half a millennium on.

There was one other Godown in Hong

helmet ordering an opium-laden coolie to

Kong: the legendary Godown bar and

head down into the warehouse. He puts

bistro. Back in the day it was the expat

on his best pidgin English and gestures,

bar in town. Rather appropriately given

irritably: “go down, go down!”

the name, it spent much its life in the

Sounds plausible enough. But “godown”

Our tablet app: Out Now!

basements of Sutherland House and then

actually has a more convoluted history

the Furama Hotel in Central, where the

than you’d expect. When the British floated

AIA Central tower stands now. Founded

over to the east, they appropriated the

just two days before the 1967 riots began,

words which made sense to refer to what

the Godown was a celebrity hotspot with

they found there: “shroff,” “nullah,” “chop,”

weekly live jazz nights, and adverts boasted

“godown.” The word was introduced into

of its European wait staff. It had an iconic

English in the late 1500s, and it comes

communal table where regulars would

from the Malay word gudang, a store

party into the early hours.

room—which in turn was appropriated

Know your nose

The Godown shut up shop in 1998,

from a similar word used in the southern

after more than 30 years of operation.

Indian languages of Tamil, Malayalam and

But these days expats in search of a drink

Kannada. And so all across Asia, where

can still take up that cry in pidgin English,

there was trade, there is the godown.

of a sort: go down, go down, go down to

Trade spreads words and ideas faster

Lan Kwai Fong…

Mr. Know-It-All answers your questions and quells your urban concerns.

Send queries, troubles or problems to mrkia@hkmagmedia.com.

#PrivateEyeHK

Your resignation:

“Stupid people looking a their phones at the timekkkkkkk” Tales Spin

Life’s a Blur

We recently reviewed the movie “Wild Tales”

We announced the news of Blur’s

[April 17, issue 1092], which follows six darkly

upcoming seated concert in Hong Kong (July 22,

hilarious stories of anger, rage and revenge. Our

www.hkticketing.com). One Facebook reader

Facebook readers had wildly varying reactions

joked about the band’s aging audience.

to the film.

A seated gig—how exciting! I guess their fans Bomb the policy, bomb the system, bomb the government.

Great little movies. Go and see ‘em!

Sylvio Constabel

Equal Reactions Our Hongkabulary “Winston’s Third Law” [April 17, issue 1092]— “When two people staring at their phones collide and go flying in opposite directions”—found agreement on Facebook. stupid people looking a their phones at the timekkkkkkk Medora Yuki Wu

Write in and Win!

Take Flight

Photo by Christopher Button (christopherbutton.squarespace.com)

4 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

Got something to say? Write us!

Our letter of the week gets an HK Magazine notebook, umbrella (pictured) and copy of “Historical Hong Kong Hikes,” total value $470.

Yuanna Hui Photo: Linda Brownlee

Anson Kwok

have reached the age ... lol

THE WEEK sat 4/25

wed 4/29

mon 4/27

Friday 4/24

Monday 4/27

Thursday 4/30

Cliché Records is celebrating its third birthday with an allweekend extravaganza at Kee Club and late-night hotspot Oma—lose yourself to DJ beats, and end the weekend with brunch at Vibes at the Mira.

See Nightlife, p.27.

Taking over Kowloon Bay’s skate rink, the Mega Ice Hockey 5s is one of the biggest ice hockey tournaments in Asia. Over 1,000 players from around the world come to compete, so with luck there’s gonna be lots of hockey pucks to the face.

Apr 27-May 9. Mega Ice, Unit 1, 10/F, Megabox, 38 Wang Chiu Rd., Kowloon Bay. Free.

Comedy HK continues Chungking Comedy, a series taking place at Chungking Mansions’ the Delhi Club. Laugh with— and maybe at—some of the city’s best stand-up comedians.

Dinner, 6pm; show, 9:30pm. Room 3, 3/F, Block C, Chungking Mansions, 38-44 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-1682.

A Cliché Weekend

Saturday 4/25

I’m On a Boat

Junk season is finally upon us. Join Gweilo Concepts on another Boatzilla party: drinks, music, food and gweilos all included. Is your body less than swimsuit-ready? Well, hitting the gym the week before your first junk isn’t really going to do anything. Sorry.

11am. Central Pier 9. $450 in advance; visit www.facebook.com/GweiloConcepts.

Sunday 4/26

Fun Fería

The Spanish Chamber of Commerce transplants Spanish festival La Feria to The Space, with all the fun you’d expect: flamenco dancing, sangria, and lots and lots of delicious tapas.

Apr 25-26, various times. 210 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan. $150-220; email trade2@spanish-chamber.com.hk.

Puck It All

Chungking Expression

Tuesday 4/28

Friday 5/1

The Fringe Club hosts a monthly Drum Jam led by master percussionist Kumi Masunaga. The two-hour class allows participants to learn percussion of all kinds. No drumming experience necessary, but don’t forget to bring a sense of rhythm.

8pm. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251. $130 from Fringe Club, including a drink.

Indie mainstay Chochukmo takes to the stage this public holiday. Led by long-haired singer/graphic designer/actor Jan Curious, the rockers mix elements of jazz, bossa nova and funk into its English-language tracks.

Apr 30-May 1, 8pm. Musiczone, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $250 from Tom Lee Music outlets.

The Beat of the Drum

Saturday 5/2

Wednesday 4/29

K-Race

So Chok Mo

Just Browsing

The Wednesday races take on a K-spin as Korean food comes to the valley. What’s on the cards? Galbi, ddeokbokki, kimchi quesadilla and other amusingly named horses.

Apr 15, 22, 29, 6-10pm. Jockey Club Racecourse, Happy Valley. $10 at the door.

The Dine and Design Festival brings us the best food the city has to offer, plus awesome work from local designers. Sample foods from the likes of Rummin’ Tings and the Butchers Club, then browse the racks of What the Frock and Rumi Yoga Wear.

May 1-2, 11am-9pm; May 3, 11am-8pm.

Central Harbourfront, 9 Lung Wo Rd., Central. Free.

do this

Force Yourself The force returns with George Lukas Reggae— Episode III, the third edition in a series of these super laid-back events. Previous nights have taken place on the beach, but this version has switched gears and will be at Azure. Why the name? Apparently the organizers really love “Star Wars.” But, hey—it’s a party on a rooftop, with reggae beats. What’s not to love?

Apr 26, 4-11pm. 29/F, Hotel LKF, 33 Wyndham St., Central. $150 from www.ticketflap.com.

6 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, april 24, 2015

NEWS Last Week In Reality

Talking Points We read the news, so you don’t have to.

Photo: Jonathan Wong/SCMP

Sat 11 Sex & Consequences Two people who were taped having sex at a bus stop in Ho Man Tin opposite

Hong Kong Polytechnic University earlier this month are both arrested. The 18-year-old woman, who is a Beijing native, returned to Hong Kong and surrendered herself to the police after spending six days back at home. The 19-year-old man was called to the police station on the same night the incident took place. As of press time, they are both on bail.

Sun 12 Pawful Behavior A beauty pageant for dogs

put on at Nina Tower in Tsuen Wan is heavily criticized by netizens and animal rights activists. Photos posted online by a pet shop which won three prizes show dogs being dyed in an array of colors, with one of them looking like Donald Duck. The SPCA releases a statement condemning the actions of participants.

Red Taxis Want to Raise Prices The city’s taxis have collectively applied to the Transport Department to request a $2 increase in flag fall prices to $24, and for meter jumps to increase also. A spokesman at the Motor Transport Workers General Union explained that taxi drivers do not benefit from price increases, as the cars’ owners also increase their rent accordingly. He expressed hopes that taxi prices would increase in the long run, so that drivers’ incomes can also grow. The Transport Department responded that it would consider the matter from the costs of operation to the changes in industry

Mon 13

incomes, as well as public acceptance. The last time red taxis increased their prices was in 2013.

Cat Daddy In the early hours on Cheung

Our take: Remember when taxis started at $12? Those were the days…

Chau, 72-year-old Fai Gor, who is known as the “Cheung Chau King of Cats,” sees a stray

Government Wet Market Assistant Job: $13k

cat by the pier being chased and attacked by six dogs. The cat falls into the water, and Fai Gor jumps in to rescue it. Residents help to

The Food and Environmental Hygiene Department is recruiting a wet market assistant.

pull the cat back up. Sadly, the cat dies from

Successful applicants will have attained at least level 2 (a barely passing grade) in five

its injuries. Fai Gor earned his nickname from

subjects in the Diploma of Secondary Education exams—including English and Chinese—and at

rescuing and looking after stray cats on the

least one year’s experience in a full-time, supervised, frontline position. Duties include patrol and

island: he has been doing it for 28 years.

inspection of the market and handling enquiries and complaints. The monthly salary is $13,040, but after a year there’s an opportunity for a 10 percent increase.

Tue 14

Our take: Not a bad entry-level gig. Interested? The deadline’s April 24, so hop to it: www.csb.gov.hk.

Ugly Assault A 16-year-old boy is charged with indecent assault after allegedly

touching a 17-year-old girl. The first incident took place in an elevator at a Wong Tai Sin public housing estate, where he is said to have touched her genitals twice. Almost 10 days later, he allegedly touched her thighs outside a convenience store. During crossexamination in court, she says that she has correctly identified the perpetrator, adding,

Tourism Board Launches Campaign to Get Hongkongers Spending

“He is especially ugly to the point where it’s scary—that’s why I recognize him.”

The Hong Kong Tourism Board is hosting a month-long discount campaign aimed at convincing

His trial continues.

Hongkongers to part with their money inside the territory. Cumbersomely titled “HAPPY@ Hongkong Super JETSO,” over 10,000 stores are offering deals to entice customers. Mainlander

Wed 15 Posh Fast Food A McDonald’s outlet at New

Town Plaza in Sha Tin is forced to close after more than 30 years due to high rent. Snap, a newly formed community organization, puts on “Black Tie at McDonald’s”—a silent protest against the influx of expensive shops in the mall. A group of 20 people from

favorite cosmetics chain Sa Sa is offering $30 coupons to customers who spend over $100, while Emperor Watch and Jewellery is offering half off certain items. Some deals are limited to Hongkongers only, such as free dinner buffets at Disneyland and buy-one-get-one tickets at the Sky100 Observation deck in ICC. Simon Kwok Siu-ming, the chairman of the Quality Tourism Services Association—and also the founder of Sa Sa—hopes to boost local spending to make up for recent shortfall in spending from over the border. The campaign runs April 27-May 28.

Our take: Could this be a win-win for Hong Kong… and for Sa Sa?

Snap turn up dressed in suits and dresses, bringing plates and champagne glasses with them to eat on. The McDonalds outlet of New Town Plaza was at one point the busiest in the world. Developers are set to replace it with sneaker shops.

Quote of the Week “Why would these Filipina domestic helpers be willing to live with a foreign boyfriend or

Thu 16

Fri 17

Thong and Dance A photo of a man

Haunted House A woman who lives in Discovery

sunbathing in a thong on the rooftop of

Bay receives a text from an estate agent saying

Sau Mau Ping police station is uploaded

that there is a photo of her apartment with a ghost

to social media and goes viral. The

pictured in it, and enquiring whether she is willing

original post comes with a police officer’s

to sell or rent it for a cheap price. The woman, who

criticizes the media’s coverage of domestic helpers in the SAR. She noted

ID number. A police spokesperson says

did not intend to sell or rent her apartment, reports

that they will follow up on the incident,

the incident to Apple Daily and says she has never

a lack of reporting on “abnormal relationships, or even sexual exploitation,

adding that officers must follow the code

allowed estate agents to photograph her home.

between some foreigners and domestic helpers,” adding that she had

of conduct whether on or off duty.

Apple Daily follows up with the estate agent in

“received complaints from a group of foreign women living in Discovery

question, who claims she did not send the text and has reported the incident to the police.

Illustrations: Ryan Chan

8 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

employer without any sort of label?”

In a column published in Ming Pao, former Secretary for Security Regina Ip

Bay that the government was allowing Filipino domestic helpers to seduce their husbands.” Ip posted the piece to her blog; it has since been deleted.

UPFront HongKabulary

Street Talk

Junk Jaded (dʒʌnk dʒeɪdɛd), adj.

Crushing on somebody until, after spending a whole day on a junk with them, you begin to notice their imperfections.

“I was totally into him until he took his shirt off and spent six hours talking about CrossFit. Now I’m junk jaded.”

Caption This HONG KONG—Former Ming Pao editor-in-chief Kevin Lau at the Jesuit Education Forum.

(Edmond So/SCMP)

Causeway Bay watering hole Brecht’s celebrates its 20th anniversary on April 25. As owner and chef of this longstanding bar, Freddie Fong shares some fond memories with Nicholas Cheung.

HK Magazine: Why would you name your bar Brecht’s?

Freddie Fong: It’s all about a guy called Bertolt Brecht. He was a German poet and theater director during the Second World War. He was so influential at that time, and you can see it in the decoration of my bar.

Each painting has a political meaning behind it. In Hong Kong, we are lucky to have so much freedom. Come to our bar and you’ll find out more about them.

HK: Who are the painters?

FF: All my friends and customers contributed to these paintings! My customers come from diverse backgrounds: fashion, music, art… They make use of my place as a temporary gallery and exhibition space!

Embrace / Baby, I can see your Halo” Lau: “Everywhere I’m Looking Now / I’m Surrounded by your , Jesus ony to Chagrin of Ming Pao Management Kevin Lau Attends Own Beatification Cerem

Photographer Has Been Waiting His Whole Life for This Shot, Can Die Happy

Fast Facts Le Fin Hongkongers have eaten 70 percent less shark fin in the past five years. Why is this?

➢ Insufferable hipsters of Hong Kong have all developed fin intolerance.

➢ Supplanted by new Cantonese delicacy: shark anus. ➢ “Superior Great White Shark Fin” ad campaign misinterpreted as racist.

➢ Finally bowing to public pressure, restaurants are switching to sperm whale fins instead.

➢

After 700 years, everyone has finally realized that shark fin is totally tasteless.

HK: What else is special about Brecht’s?

FF: We don’t just play indie music. We also have rock, alternative, jazz, hip-hop… We don’t play Chinese or Korean songs because there are lots of westerners here. They would feel weird if we did. I choose the playlists myself. Our bar is ranked in the top five in “Lonely Planet,” and we attract lots of backpackers. I am always happy to help. We tell them everything about Hong Kong, like where to go and the normal price of certain electrical appliances.

HK: What stands out to you after 20 years of running the bar?

FF: I feel strange when I see a customer who is 40 now. She was just a little girl 20 years ago! Once I met a British soldier in my bar. He was one of the soldiers during the Iraq War and responsible for bomb disposal. It was a really dangerous job.

The day he came in was the Hungry Ghost Festival and we were burning fake money for ghosts. He was curious about it and asked us why. After that chat, I learned to cherish everything you have, since you

never know what will happen. Another memorable thing is that we used to hold weekly opera shows in the bar’s early years. Around 30 people came each time and it was really fun. They were subsidized by the government!

HK: Is it difficult to stay open in the face of rising rents?

FF: It is really tough for me. You can see the restaurants opening opposite us. Rents are going up like crazy. Our contract will be ending this year. I would use a song by The Smashing Pumpkins to describe my feeling: “The Beginning is the End is the Beginning.”

I have no idea if I can continue my business but it can be another beginning for me.

HK: What’s the secret to running a bar for 20 years?

FF: Just be yourself. The most important thing is having your own personality and character for your bar. All our staff are very friendly and dress casually. We hope to offer a chilled-out place for chatting and relaxing.

I owned a bar called D26 in Lan Kwai Fong before. But I love the location here because it’s quieter and more chilled. My mottos are: don’t be greedy and cherish everything you have. Keep working hard and others will appreciate your effort.

HK: Any other fond memories?

FF: I’m happy to have witnessed some romantic moments in our bar. A couple had their first date here and they are finally getting married. We are holding the 20th anniversary party on Saturday in our bar.

All of you are welcome to join and you might meet your lover on that day! Starting at 7pm, we will have free beers and some food. Bring along your food as well!

Come along to Brecht’s 20th anniversary party on Apr 25, 7pm. 123 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-4785.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 9

Fragrant HarboUr Evelyn Lok noses her way around five iconic (and pungent) spots in the SAR. Photos by Kirk Kenny

Hong Kong is a city easily navigated by its recognizable sights and sounds: hot neon signs, shiny skyscrapers, brightly colored tong laus and the klaxon of taxi horns. But we are, after all, named the “Fragrant Harbour”—so what about a signature Hong Kong scent?

We head out into the SAR to smell out the answer, enlisting the help of perfume expert John Paulo Hui from fragrance consultancy Artisenses (www.artisenses.com) to put together a perfume for every step along the way.

The Wet Market T microcosm of smells. In larger markets

his quintessential feature of the SAR is a

the produce, seafood and fresh meat are all separated into sections: so on your grocery run, you’ll be hit by the springy, watery scent of greens and the juicy sweetness of fruits.

Then in the seafood section, it’s the sharp tang of wet shells, salt and heaving fish that attack the nose. But none are quite as offensive as what you encounter in the butchers’ aisles: an almost fetid, gamey odor of aging pork being unhooked, chopped and hung back up again; damp and limp, with the salty, ferrous smell of drying blood.

“The prevailing tradition of Hong Kong has always been the gai see wet market,” says Mr. Lee, who mans a fruit stall with his aging parents at Graham Street Market.

The market’s livelihood is dwindling as the Urban Renewal Authority moves stalls out, although at press time several shops still remain in business. “That fishy market odor is gone, because all the seafood stalls have closed down. All that’s left now are vegetables and fruits, so it smells a whole lot fresher. But without meat and fish, fewer people come here,” he adds.

“It’s not really considered ‘forcing us out’,” says Mrs. Chan, who has been working at her family-owned vegetable stall in the market for decades. “They’re still leasing space to us until the surrounding environment absolutely needs to be renewed, but until then they’re giving advance notice and compensation. Societal problems shouldn’t only be seen from one side: that’s not healthy,” she says. Her family stall has seen changes throughout the years, from beginnings as a small stall, to a brick-and-mortar store, then to a streetside green tin stall again in the recent neighborhood redevelopment. “We’re also an old couple with no one to carry on the business,” she says. “Taking advantage of that, we’ve decided to quit.”

The fragrance of basil is Mrs. Chan’s favorite market scent, and she notes the particular richness of the smell of herbs here, as Graham Street was the first market to widely stock western produce in Hong Kong.

“We used to match the kinds of produce sold at Citysuper. Now these herbs are common.

The secret to stocking fresh produce is for people to keep buying it—easy come, easy

10 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

Manning a vegetable stall for decades, Mrs. Chan still adores the scent of aromatic herbs.

go!” she says. “Nowadays, there are just not enough customers.”

Mr. Lee agrees. “This market used to be very popular but now not so much. Ever since the escalator was built, fewer people have been walking down here. A lot of our old neighbors and frequent customers have also moved away.” His own favorite smell is the scent of fresh mangoes from his stall, but he tells us what’s always immediately noticeable has to be the stink—or beloved scent, depending on your perspective—of durian.

The Wong family, who own a dried seafood stall near the foot of Graham Street Market, are some of the only ones left standing. Patriarch Mr. Wong has seen the world come and go at his humble stall—fondly remembering when Queen Elizabeth II stopped her car nearby during her 1975 visit. He schools us in the correct smells of quality dried seafood. Of conpoy: “If it smells sweet and fresh, then it’s the good stuff.” As for salted fish, “If it’s good it’s usually wrapped up. If it’s not good quality, we’d put it on the bottom shelf. It should smell

Victoria Harbour I

Mr. Wong sells a variety of wares, from dried sea cucumber to salted fish.

light and plummy. Bad quality fish will be really salty, mushy and smell like mildew.”

“The special smell here? It’s the yan ching mei [essence of humanity],” says Mr. Lee. “Tourists can get a kick out of going to these markets too. But now they visit all the new department stores instead; why come all the way to Hong Kong for that?”

s having a stinky harbor the mark of a great city? Historically, it seems so. The stink of detritus made the Seine notorious in the 18th century, and London witnessed the “Great Stink” in 1858, when a heatwave magnified the stench of chamberpot outflow and industrial drainage in the Thames. What did our own harbor smell like back then? Probably of singed opium and chicken feet. Today, on a sunny day in Victoria Harbour, you’ll notice the pleasantly damp, salty air, but every 10 minutes or so it’s interrupted by the heady tang of diesel oil and hot billowing steam courtesy of the ferries coasting between Central, Tsim Sha Tsui and the outlying islands. On a windy, grey day it smells stale, humid, and kind of sad— vaguely like a warm tuna sandwich that’s been sealed and squashed in a plastic bag for too long. It’s all underlined by the faint, lingering stench of the tiny fish that inhabit the murky waters of our narrowing channel.

The Fragrance:

Eau de Marche

Mr. Lee with his “beloved” durian

John Paulo says: “This vibrant fruity wet market fragrance offers inspiration for a healthy morning boost. You name it—they’ll have it: the juicy freshness of Chinese mandarin, Washington apple, Philippine mango, Brazilian orange, Korean strawberries, Thailand coconuts and Japanese yuzu. As a true scent explorer, you will also notice the greens (kale, white cabbage, lettuce, etc) followed by the meaty, gamey, salty fresh seafood notes. The scent trails end with traditional preserved delicacies: salted eggs, cabbages and seaweed.”

But Mr. Tsang, a fishing hobbyist who hunts for these small fish, detects no significant smell at all. In fact, he’s noticed an improvement in the water quality and a cleaner smell in recent years. “The government has done a lot recently.

Over here in Victoria, this water is already the best. You should see Sham Shui Po: about 20 years ago, back when all the fishermen would bring up their nets, all the fish scales and debris would get plunged back into the ocean and smother the bottom with decay and stink. The water’s too deep to send people down there to clean. It still stinks,” he says. “Here it’s really not that bad. If you walk down to Sheung Wan around Shun Tak Pier, the stench of those ferries is even stronger.”

The Lee family stall, at the corner of Graham Street and Wellington

The Fragrance:

Acqua dI PESCE John Paulo says: “Embracing the local cosmopolitan culture of Saturday high tea alongside the history of Victoria Harbour, this scent opens with marine notes of Central Pier blended with the rusty metal of the Star Ferry, followed by traces of a fishy odor brought by ferries from Lamma, Mui Wo and Cheung Chau.

The middle note is recognized by a burst of sweetness of petit fours such as macarons and mini fruit tarts, with a perfect ending of tones of vanilla latte and a yummy cheesy biscuit platter.”

This all contrasts with the aromas safely kept indoors in the vicinity of the harbourside: the powdery traces of strong office and mall airconditioning, cold on the nose; bursts of aroma from coffee bars, some cardboard-y and some rich and comforting; and buttery pastries being nibbled by crowds of perfumed Centralites.

Mr. Tsang enjoys bringing small fish home to make soup HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 11

The Flower Market A Hongkongers, the flower market is a hugely popular market for all

sleepy corner of Prince Edward that provides a green, calming respite far from the humid car exhaust fumes, stale sweat and yellow greasiness that clouds street food stalls dotting the area. As you turn the corner into the main market street, the towering, centuries-old trees shade the path and you become immersed in the grassy, dewy freshness of the potted greenery and fresh-cut flowers: with hints of jasmine, subtly sweet freesia and the cool scent of rose.

Ms. Ko, marketing director of Brighten (various locations, including 28 Flower Market Rd., Prince Edward, 2380-5113)—an eightbranch mainstay in the area—is particularly fond of the smell of noble firs during the weeks leading up to Christmas. But apart from that, “The signature smells of the flower market are not local flowers, but of the general scent of greenery.” But for her, the quintessential scent of Hong Kong is something quite removed from her working vicinity: “It has to be the fried street snacks.”

Ms. Fung, who manages potted plant emporium Wah King Garden Arts (32 Flower Market Rd., Mong Kok, 2380-9129), also looks to local delicacies when dreaming of her signature Hong Kong scent. “It’s the warm aroma of a fresh pineapple bun with butter.” But Ms. Fung also has a soft spot for the freshness of grass that surrounds the Flower Market. “It really calms you,” she says. “But for the most part, you just notice the stink of car fumes, although that really can’t be helped.”

The Fragrance:

Bouquet de Bauhine John Paulo says: “This floral symphony of the flower market fragrance magnifies with wet and green dewy notes from the shops in the flower markets. It transits to the sweet and heady profile of a carefree white floral journey, including jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom and freesia. Pairing with this beautiful floweriness, enjoy milk tea as well as egg tart notes from the cha chaan tengs which will make you smell good (or smell food) all day!”

Sponsored Feature

12 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

milk smells, but we’ve been working here for so long, we just don’t notice it anymore.”

Rounding the corner on to Fa Yuen Street, you’ll find it’s lined with yet more greasy spoon joints. Just this corner alone is a smelly one: the strong aromatic bitterness of Chinese herbal teas at Sam Bo Fong (Shop 4B, 55 Dundas St., Mong Kok, 2781-0728) may assault the outsider, but friendly shopkeeper Ms. Lee complains all she notices is an overpowering, acrid smell of sewage coming from nearby.

Mr. Chan has manned the Coconut King stall for four years

Mong Kok Street Food A resting Mong Kok. Weaving through the

to draw you towards Dundas Street: the main artery of local greasy delights.

perpetual crowds in Mong Kok takes a special type of skill and patience as it’s certainly not lacking in foot traffic. In a place so highly concentrated with people and shops, you’re bombarded by smells both pleasant and revolting: the subtle sourness as you brush sweaty arms with pedestrians; perfumed waves of air conditioning from Korean makeup shops; the warm breath of a thousand people talking, singing, cursing up and down Sai Yeung Choi Street; the blanket of car fumes and wafting cigarette smoke no matter where you are in the area. But all this you’d barely notice under the prevailing smells of street food which are likely

You might expect the pungent, fermented smell of stinky tofu emanating from corner stall Kai Kee Snacks (41 Dundas St., Mong Kok) to be overpowering. But the glib shopkeeper tells us, “I don’t know what stink you’re talking about. I can only smell the aroma of my freshly deep-fried squid.”

t the heart of Hong Kong is bustling, never

Mr. Chan has been working at Coconut King (Shop H, Dundas Square, 43 Dundas St., Mong Kok) just a few stores down from Kai Kee for four years, and mainly notices the smells of the stores around him. “Curry fish balls, siu mai, bubble tea; some people might come over to us and comment on how nice the coconut

At this corner of Dundas and Fa Yuen, you can’t help but notice Fei Jie (Shop 4A, 55 Dundas St.), the celebrity of soy-saucebraised skewered meats and offal in the area. Even before its opening time at 2pm, considerable queues gather in front of this tiny, three-generation-old stall. We breathed in the addictive whiffs of warm star anise in its signature soy sauce, freshly made every day, as we spoke to Eva, the daughter-in-law of proprietor Fei Jie. Her favorite smells? The sweetness of warm egg puffs and the smoky spiciness of fish balls. “It’s really in Mong Kok where you’d find the most street snacks. It’s all concentrated on this one street. I used to work at the Langham Place Hotel. Why do I like working in Mong Kok so much? Because this district can showcase all of Hong Kong’s unique culture to our tourists. They won’t be able to feel it as much in, say, Causeway Bay.”

Ms. Lee tempts us to try one of Sam Bo Fong’s aromatic herbal specialities

The Fragrance:

Parfum FumÉ John Paulo says: “On the edible trail of local delicacies, this smoky and spicy Mong Kok fragrance opens with assorted balls (fish balls, lobster balls, prawn balls…) alongside five spice and marinated beef offal, followed by the queue for chargrilled egg puffs. To freshen up your palate, this trail ends with a juicy combination of apples, carrots, pears, oranges and grapes from a street-side juice bar.”

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 13

Sheung Wan Dried Seafood T onto an eclectic balance of old and he district of Sheung Wan holds

new: Known as an area where Chinese dried seafood and tonic food merchants set up shop, it’s also surrounded by trendy new eateries interspersed with familyowned diners. Of these establishments, many are still owned today by the third and fourth generations. The sweet smell of traditional Chinese tonic foods, which are usually used to make soups for medicinal purposes, is apparent: the earthy aroma of “flower” mushroom [a variant of shiitake], conpoy, abalone and ginseng.

This fragrant, peaty mixture continues to waft along Bonham Strand and Ko Shing

Street towards the rest of Western district.

Further along Des Voeux Road West in Sai Ying Pun, the air develops a noticeably sweet, balmy aroma of salted fish.

Different streets around here specialize in particular types of foods.

For instance, Wing Lok Street is known as “bird’s nest street,” although most shops sell a variety of wares. “The government does this to attract tourists,” says Mr. Lok, who has managed his family’s dried seafood store Wing Fook Lung (74 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2541-1220) since he was a young man. But times aren’t easy, as anti-parallel trading protesters are pushing mainland visitors away.

“We rely on these tourists for a living.

A lot of Hong Kong businesses will suffer.

Hongkongers tend to spend less: not that they don’t have money, but they’ll spend it elsewhere, in Japan or Thailand.” Another thing that has changed over the past 20 years, notes Mr. Lok, is the smell of diesel and fumes from cars and trucks. “It’s not that there’s been a change in the quality of our foods,” he complains, “But that there’s more and more of those smells and fumes that affect the atmosphere of this street—turning scents that smell good into odors that stink.”

At nearby congee and noodle shop Sang Kee (20-22 Cleverly St., Sheung Wan, 2541-8199), a longstanding fixture in the area, shop manager Mr. Wong also notes the effects of pollution on an old neighborhood. “I don’t notice any smells normally, because I’ve been working here for so many years. But a lot of the newer restaurants in this area have been releasing a lot of grilled meat flavor onto the streets.” You’ll also notice a fainter assortment of smells from Sang Kee’s signature beef brisket: notes of galangal, Chinese cardamom, and bubbling bone marrow broth boiled for hours on end.

14 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

Mr. Lok continues to manage his family-owned store after almost 30 years.

Mr. Wong pins down the differences in air quality in Sheung Wan compared to Chai Wan, where he lives: “When we were kids, the air was a lot better. Now there are a lot more buildings and cars, and it can’t be helped. That ‘wall effect’ makes it a lot more polluted. The air isn’t well ventilated. Whenever you walk into Sheung Wan, you’ll notice the temperature is warmer than elsewhere. You get the feeling that the air is stuffier, and it’s not a comfortable feeling,” he says.

When asked about the most distinctive smell of the city, Mr. Lok reflects on the fading essence of day-to-day connections between people, that so defined Hong Kong in its earlier days.

“Every country has its own distinctive smell—how can you have a seaside and not have a smell? We must keep some sort of essence here, what we call yan ching mei [the essence of humanity]. But nowadays Hong Kong’s yan ching mei has diminished quite a bit,” he says. “I’ve been

telling my pals, ‘You need to go home more to your families for dinner!’ It’s a Chinese tradition: home food is always the best, and allows you to feel closer to your family. I go home for dinner every day to eat with my sons and daughters.”

The Fragrance:

Chanel No. 852 John Paulo says: “The Sheung Wan perfume is a nostalgic memoir of old Hong Kong, with an opening of amber and frankincense inspired by the Man Mo Temple, followed by a traditional infusion of ginseng inspired by the herbal shops of Wing Lok Street. This overlaps with the matured elegance of antique agarwood, sandalwood and cedar wood furniture on Cat Street, ending on the dry saltiness of sea cucumber, conpoy and sun-dried seaweed.”

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 15

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Get more out of HK | SHOPPING + TRAVEL + DINING

Hang Time It’s all about street chic photo finishes for men this spring, and no one knows that better than French photographer Denis Darzacq. His hauntingly beautiful series “La Chute,” aka “The Fall,” captures French hip-hop dancers mid-air. It’s launching alongside On Pedder’s spring/summer collection from the end of April. Take your pick of cool kicks from the likes of Miharayasuhiro and Common Projects, or UK classics from George Cleverley and Mr. Hare.

Apr 21-May 8. On Pedder Men’s Store, Shop B21-22, B/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2342-8308.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 17

Shopping LOOKbook

with Katie Kenny

Got a man in your life you want to treat to something special?

My advice: keep it classy and keep it classic.

Organic Modernism 5 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2559-0001.

MMT Watches Free shipping worldwide, www.mmtstore.com.

Gentlemen’s Tonic 43-49 Wellington St., Sun Lee Building, Central, 2525-2455.

Moleskine Free shipping for orders over $272. store.moleskine.com/hkg.

Mr Blacksmith Designware Store 7 Gough St., Sheung Wan, 2581-1110.

Wooden watch with leather strap, $3,092, MMT

Valet stand, $2,980, Authentic Model @ Mr Blacksmith Designware Store

Shaving set, $230, Gentlemen’s Tonic

Edison table lamp, $495, Organic Modernism Side table, $5,970, Organic Modernism

Anzac Day Saturday, 25 April 2015

6:15 am, The Cenotaph, Chater Road, Central

Members of the public may lay a wreath according to the order of service www.anzaccentenary.gov.au, www.awm.gov.au/commemoration/anzac, http://ww100.govt.nz

To be followed by Gunfire Breakfast

Grappa’s Cellar - $180/$100 (2-11 years old) +10% Cash Only Bookings Essential: 2521 2322

LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong Dot Cod Restaurant - $218/$148 (3-11 years old) + 10% Bookings: 2810 6988 Clipper Lounge (Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong) - $318/$208 (3-11 years old) + 10% Bookings: 2825 4007 Café Causette (Mandarin Oriental) - a la carte. Bookings: 2825 4005

Smart notebook with free iPhone app, $270, Moleskine x Adobe

what he really wants Moving Pictures Check out these Electric Objects frames—large (23 inch) HD tablets which connect to a phone app, allowing you to pick and choose the art you want to display at home, straight from the internet. This isn’t just your standard photo frame, either: You can pick digital and video art that’s been created specially for them. It’s currently sold out after successful Kickstarter funding, but hop online to reserve the next batch, which will be out in September.

From $3,092, www.electricobjects.com.

Email me at katie.kenny@hkmagmedia.com, tweet me @Katie_Kenny or tag me on Instagram @katekatiekatharine.

18 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

travel Escape Routes with Kate Springer

Sha o Spe xing cia l!

Shaoxing: a beautiful backwater

The broad beans of your dreams

Just a 1.5-hour train ride south of Shanghai’s bright lights and 20 minutes east of Hangzhou's West Lake is one of the area’s most charming river towns.

Seemingly paused in time, Shaoxing is home to a network of canals, 4,000 stone bridges, and traditional white houses with gray slate roofs. But there’s another reason to visit: The sleepy city is a bastion of humble, fermented foods—you can practically smell the stinky tofu from Hangzhou airport. Here are a few of the must-try staples (tofu included!): the pedestrianized Lu Xun Middle Road has it all.

Rice Wine (Shaoxing jiu) You’ve probably seen Shaoxing rice wine on dinner menus—as it’s commonly used as a cooking wine—but you can actually drink it too. Usually, the fermented rice wine is poured into stone containers and buried underground. The longer it ages, the better the quality: among the best varieties is Huadiao, so ask for that. In many restaurants in the city, this brown, nutty wine is served in adorable metal pewters.

Aniseed Beans (huixiang dou) Nothing goes better with Shaoxing rice wine than a handful of salty broad beans.

The variety you’ll find around town have a strong aniseed flavor as well as an overall umami effect. Their lasting popularity is thanks in part to 19th-century Chinese writer Lu Xun, who writes about a humble scholar who dines on Shaoxing wine and broad beans in his story ”Kong Yiji.”

Braised Pork Belly and Fermented Greens (mei cai kou rou) Take streaky, layered pork belly and shower it in Shaoxing wine, onion and ginger then surround it with fermented— but surprisingly tasty—veggies and you've got this beloved local dish.

Pig out on braised pork belly

Drunken Chicken (zui ji) Though widely eaten across China and Hong Kong, drunken chicken originates in Shaoxing. The chicken, served cold, is extra tender thanks to its long bath in Huadiao wine, which also creates an ultra-quaffable broth.

Stinky Tofu (chou doufu) Yep, you will smell it before you see it.

One of the city’s best dishes is its fried fermented tofu that’s served crispy on the outside, silky on the inside. Cut into bitesized cubes, the tofu here is usually served alongside a bright red spicy and sweet pepper sauce. And it is indeed delicious, despite smelling like rotting garbage.

Stay here: It's slim pickings in the area but I had a great experience at the Old Xianheng Hotel in the heart of the cultural district (from $1,280. 179 Lu Xun Middle Rd., Shaoxing, (+86) 575-85116666), where the rooms wrap around a traditional-style courtyard. Though little English is spoken, staff are friendly and the location is impossible to beat, just outside of the cobbled pedestrian streets.

It’s also home to the famous Xianheng Restaurant, which aforementioned writer Lu Xun chose as the setting for his ”Kong Yiji” story. Be careful when booking though: there's lesser Xianheng Hotel not too far away.

Getting there: There are no direct flights to Shaoxing, but you can fly to Hangzhou (Hong Kong Airlines goes every day: from $1,250, www.hongkongairlines.com) and then take a bullet train to Shaoxing (from RMB19.50), which runs hourly. Make sure to get a “D” or “G” train—those are the fast ones.

Have a query you need answered or a travel tip you’re keen to share?

Email me at kate.springer@hkmagmedia. com or tweet @KateSpringer and #hktravels.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 19

DINING

Best of the Brews

The past year has seen a wellspring of quality coffee shops emerge, to our overcaffeinated delight. Here are a few great new finds along with some long-time favorites. By HK Staff

Do or Zai Literally meaning “strong black coffee” in Cantonese, Zai Fé does what it says on the tin. The Italianstyle espresso bar was founded by three coffee lovers—Freda Lai, Wendy Tsui and Tim Shepherd—who wanted an alternative to artificially flavored coffee drinks. The café serves up unapologetically strong and fresh coffee, as well as natural “infusions” such as lavender and lemon or spicy chili.

Cost of a cuppa: espresso $21; long black $26.

22-28 Finnie St., Quarry Bay, 2169-3003; 1/F, 73 Wyndham St., Central; APM LG Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong.

You Go Blend Coco

Get in the Filter Lane

Filter it Out Walking into Filters Lane is a little intimidating: there are all kinds of contraptions straight out of some kind of steampunk exhibition, and the coffee is equally as complicated. It’s certainly not your average café, taking extra care with its hand-poured coffee—with some that taste more like delicate, floral teas than your usual bitter, dark roast. The milkbased drinks are especially notable, as the baristas here don’t use any syrups: the mocha is made with real chocolate, and the green tea latte uses matcha powder.

Blink and you might miss this narrow coffee shop on Queen’s Road West. Though Coco Espresso has since branched out to include three much more spacious locations, the original shop is a long-time HK Mag favorite. The tiny spot has all kinds of brewing techiques, including a science-lab worthy siphon to produce Australian-style coffee. “We are also seeing a lot more people looking for drip coffee,” says head barista Kayten Ho. “It is almost more like drinking a tea or a juice, because the slow process creates many layers and subtle flavors.” But the highlight here is the cold-brewed coffee, which takes 18 hours to make a batch of just 10 servings. Ho says that the lengthy process creates a much more unusual black coffee, that’s strong and full-bodied—served over ice, it’s a great secret weapon to combat a heavy Hong Kong summer.

Cost of a cuppa: drip $45; cold brew $65.

Cost of a cuppa: filter coffee $55; mocha $48.

Filters Lane

111 Caine Rd., Mid-Levels, 2517-1868.

197 Queen’s Rd. Central; 2 Anton St., Wan Chai; Shop D, 50 Stanley St., Central; 7/F, Vanta Industrial Centre, 21-23 Tai Lin Pai Rd., Kwai Chung.

Brew it bro

A Mansons lotta coffee

Coffee not elephants in this room

Stay Grounded

That’s Your Lot

Oh, Brother

Despite being tucked away in the back of Gough Street’s painfully cool WOAW lifestyle store, Elephant Grounds is not obnoxiously hipster. Don’t get us wrong: it is hipster, but the design and atmosphere is done well—friendly baristas, an approachable menu and a pleasant little outdoor balcony. “All the ingredients used in our espresso-based drinks are homemade using natural ingredients,” says barista Kevin Chow. “We even make our own chocolate ganache, though generally we try to go light on the sugar.” Indeed, the vanilla latte stays well away from candy bar territory, while the Yivgarcheffe Adada drip coffee packs fruity, complex flavors you’d never find in a run-of-the-mill Americano. Visit from Friday to Sunday for a weekend special: the homemade ice cream sandwiches are worthy of a special pilgrimage.

Get your caffeine fix at Aussie coffeehouse Mansons Lot on relatively quiet Swatow Street in Wan Chai. The shop imports beans by Di Gabriel in Sydney, and offers some of the most intense brews in town. Grab a table by the breezy front portion of the café, or hide in a little nook at the back. For something sweet and milky go for the hearty flat white; for something strong and lethal go straight for the long black.

Sheung Wan’s Brew Bros is a cozy little joint with super-friendly staff prepared to talk you through their food and coffee. While breakfast and lunch options revolve around the scrambled egg-on-bagel kind of theme, it’s the coffee you come for. The house blend is from Ethiopia, and it’s rich, creamy, fruity and perfectly balanced. These guys take their coffee seriously.

Cost of a cuppa: long black $38; flat white $40.

Shop F2, LG/F, 33 Hillier St., Sheung Wan, 2572-0238.

Cost of a cuppa: drip coffee $60; latte $40.

11 Gough St., Sheung Wan, 2253-1313.

20 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

15 Swatow St., Wan Chai, 2362-1899.

Cost of a cuppa: long black $28; latte $38.

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DINING NEW AND NOTED with Adele Wong

A bit of Yin, bit of Yang

Seoul Food

Korean Fried Chicken continues to dominate the scene, and Chibee (7/F, Circle Plaza, 499 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2838-5777) is one of the latest to capitalize on the craze. This CWB KFC joint offers its poultry in different flavors: from normal soy sauce garlic to iffy-sounding basil pesto cream. Snacks like tteokbokki (Korean rice cake), ramen and kimchi fries round out the menu.

And because pretty much everything Korean is “in” these days, we also have

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Chicken satay ($43) was good—moist and tender, although next time we’ll get a mix of meats. Beef rendang ($54) was juicy brisket, although it didn’t have that characteristically dry sauce we expect from a rendang. We almost wondered if we’d been brought the wrong curry.

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22 HK MAGAZINE

Splurge on pizza, pasta and lots and lots of formaggio at Babbo (5/F, Plaza 2000, 2-4 Russell St., Causeway Bay, 2608-1288), a new casual Italian diner in Causeway Bay. One highlight: the Caesar salads are topped with generous heaps of fluffy Grana Padano, which are shaved tableside for maximum Instagram impact.

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Edition (37 Peel St., Central, 2336-6695), a comfort food venue dishing out things like bulgogi sliders, red-hot spicy chicken wings, and yes, more kimchi fries.

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

13,659 CX

$

Tucked away in the back corner of a Tsim Sha Tsui East shopping mall is this no-frills Malaysian restaurant, serving up all the classics.

HIT It was big helpings all around. The chicken wrapped in pandan leaves ($54) was superb. It was fragrant and almost lemony, with a beautiful caramelized char.

MISS The gado gado salad ($45), doused liberally in peanut sauce, was good but perhaps a little too basic. There are two rooms: a bright, windowed area looking out into the world and a dingier, more strip-lit affair that you should try to avoid if you possibly can.

BOTTOM LINE We’ve heard good things about the Hainan chicken rice, so the next time we’re in TST East we’ll swing by for more cheap, cheerful and delicious food.

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K-noms at Chibee

Kitchen Confidential

Chef-slash-restaurateur Margaret Xu has moved her private kitchen, Yin Yang (House 117, Ting Kau Village, Ting Kau), from Wan Chai’s Ship Street to a secluded beach in Ting Kau Village. Now a done-up village house with a front yard covered in fragrant plants and fruit trees, a kitchen brimming with high-end stainless steel appliances, and a back room housing a custom-built terracotta oven and other equipment reminiscent of ancient China, it’s an understatement to say that the new Yin Yang is an immersive dining experience. The place is a bit tricky to get to, although I’d argue that’s part of the fun. Margaret offers three scrumptious tasting menus ranging from $880 to

Edition ups its wing game

$2,000 per head. Her dishes are nominally Cantonese—they are based on traditional recipes and ingredients—but she does like to put her own spin on everything, and play with awesome flavor combinations and textural contrasts that are not necessarily a typical representation of Cantonese cuisine. Sea urchin and tofu are enhanced with a dash of black truffle; a baked chicken is accompanied with sand ginger oil made from actual sand ginger slices, rather than the more common powder. Lobsters are poached in a cold plum wine bath, and snappers are cooked whole in a clear peppercorn broth. This is private dining on a whole other level.

C

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Email me at adele.wong@hkmagmedia.com or follow me on Twitter: @adelewong_hk.

All of our reviews are independent and anonymous!

Sweetology ★★★★★ Dessert. Shop UG-22, Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, 2191-0307.

Green tea soufflé ($68) was beautifully presented, well risen and velvety smooth.

Where Festival Walk’s rink-side skate shop previously stood, dessert cafe Sweetology has given the space a sugary makeover, all neutral toned wainscoting and fairy lights.

HIT We admired the presentation of the dishes, especially the buttered toast box ($68) with Movenpick chocolate ice cream, sprinkled generously with chopped nuts— though the toast itself was slightly stale.

MISS The service is not as adorable as the decor. Four couples who arrived after us got seated before our party of three. We witnessed a staff member wolfing down his lunch right by the door—at a table where we could have been seated. We ordered an excellent-valued four-course afternoon set ($88) and two desserts, but those came well ahead of the savories. The server made the mistake of telling us that there would be red bean filling inside the soufflé—there was none. Another server then surreptitiously slid a small dish of red bean onto our table and silently walked away as if that fixed it.

BOTTOM LINE Pretty presentation and average food doesn’t balance out laughably bad service.

Open daily, 2pm-11pm. $

Our Policy Reviews are based on actual visits to the establishments listed by our super-sneaky team of hungry reviewers, without the knowledge of the restaurants. Reviews are included at the discretion of the editors and are not paid for by the restaurants. Menus, opening hours and prices change and should be checked. New restaurants are not reviewed within one month of their opening. Reviews are written from a typical diner’s perspective. Ratings are awarded in accordance with the type of restaurant reviewed, so the city’s best wonton noodle stall could earn five stars while a fancy French restaurant could be a one-star disaster.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 23

Culture + nightlife + film

Erhu, Brute?

The team at indie music zine Bitetone are back again with another round of Giligulu: a celebration of local indie tunes alongside lots of food, booze, music and visual art.

Hosted on the rooftop at Easy-Pack Creative Precinct (hipster enclave du jour), you can expect a stable of fine wines, paired with all the roasted Cantonese treats you can stomach.

Multi-instrumentalist Hakgwai (pictured; you may have seen the man playing a didgeridoo and blasting electro beats around town) will be performing two sets. RSVP only.

Apr 25, 7:30pm. Easy-Pack Creative Precinct, 140 Wai Yip St., Kwun Tong. $350 from tiny.cc/hk-giligulu2.

24   HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

ARTS

Need to Know

Theater & Arts

Urbtix (credit cards) Urbtix (enquiries) HK Ticketing HK Arts Centre Fringe Club HK Cultural Centre

Edited by Evelyn Lok evelyn.lok@hkmagmedia.com

2111-5999 2734-9009 3128-8288 2582-0200 2521-7251 2734-2009

HK City Hall HK Academy for Performing Arts Kwai Tsing Theatre LCSD Music Programme Office LCSD Dance/Multi-Arts Office LCSD Theatre Office

2921-2840 2584-8500 2408-0128 2268-7321 2268-7323 2268-7323

Classical

HK PIcks

HK Phil: The Flying Frenchman Haven’t gotten your spring travel plans in order yet? It’s okay. Those of you lucky enough to stick around in early May can aurally travel to distant lands with the HK Phil, which is playing a program of works by French composers on themes of adventure and exotic travel. For instance, Berlioz’s “Harold in Italy” imagines the Italian mountain countryside via Byron’s poetry, while Ravel’s “Spanish Rhapsody” brings impressions of colorful Spanish life. May 1-2, 8pm.

Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $120-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

Dutch Days in Hong Kong This month sees the SAR’s first ever Dutch Arts and Culture festival, with a series of art exhibitions and lectures by distinguished speakers from museums across the Netherlands. Film buffs can go dutch on date night (just kidding, don’t actually do this) with daily screenings between April 22-25. The whole shebang concludes on Koningsdag, or King’s Day, which celebrates the King’s birthday.

Remember to wear orange! Through Apr 27. www.dutchdaysinhongkong.com.

Musicals Le French May The annual Francophile festival returns. Taking place from May 1 through to the end of June (no, the name doesn’t make sense), Le French May brings over 120 acts, exhibits, films, and a host of foodie promotions to Hong Kong, kicking off with a three-day open air French market at PMQ (May 1-3).

This year, it celebrates the 500th anniversary of the reign of Francis I, who established the architectural and artistic style of the French renaissance. Among a slew of classic- and contemporary-themed programs, don’t miss a retrospective on legendary architect Le Corbusier, the father of functionalism and eventually the Bauhaus school. May 1-Jun 30. Join Le French May Membership Scheme for a first-year discount at $300, which gives 20 percent off on tickets, priority booking, and invitations to exclusive events. www.frenchmay.com.

Dance Photo: Cavalia

Israeli pianist David Greilsammer takes to the stage as part of the music program at Le French May. He’s known for his knack in juxtaposing Baroque and contemporary music—his 2012 recording “Baroque Conversations” was applauded by the New York Times as one of the best recordings of the year. You can look forward to these gems at his Hong Kong recital.

May 4, 8pm. Concert Hall, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $80-480 from pphk.org.

Liars’ League HK Get your monthly literary fix at the Liars’ League. Actors perform original pieces of short fiction—written specifically for the event by local and international authors—in front of you, the audience. Each of the events carries a theme, and on the docket in April is “Native and Nomad,” all about the notion of home. As always, it’s totally free. To submit your own stories for consideration or to find out more about the group, click here. Want to whip up something for the LL’s consideration? The next round of submissions is themed “Here & Queer”—deadline May 24. Apr 27, 8pm. XXX, B/F, 212 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan. Free. liarsleaguehk.blogspot.hk.

Jekyll and Hyde This collaboration between Hong Kong’s Chung Ying Theatre Company and playwright and director Jonathan Holloway—worshipped for his dark interpretations of “Vertigo” and “Les Misérables”—brings a brand new spin to the classic Jekyll and Hyde tale, this time casting a woman as the titular doctor. May 1-2, 7-9, 8pm; May 2-3, 10, 3pm. Amphitheatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $160-420 from www.hkticketing.com.

Arts Festivals

Showstopper! The Improvised Musical Garnering rave reviews since its beginnings as an actor’s workshop in London, “Showstopper!” combines improv theater with an all-singing, all-dancing troupe. You, the audience, will get to suggest all the madcap subjects you wish for the protagonist—a desperate scriptwriter on deadline to come up with a story—and other actors to sing and act out. The result is a raucous, unpredictable affair: the showrunners have even blithely suggested “CY Leung canoeing down a river of chocolate.” (Somebody, please make that happen.) A 60-minute kids’ version: “The Fantastical Story Factory” will also be performed on May 9-10, 3pm. May 6-9, 7:45pm; May 9-10, 3pm; May 10, 7pm.

Drama Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $295-595 from www.hkticketing.com.

Photo: Patrick Bromilow-Downing, Catherine Ashmore & Paul Coltas

Theater

Dubbed a “fearless improviser,” Italian pianist Stefano Bollani isn’t your everyday jazzer, incorporating bottles, whistling, handclapping and more into his tunes. Playing anything from standards to Great American Songbook titles, pop tunes to national anthems, Brazilian music to 20s classics, Bollani will flex his fingers—and his encyclopedic knowledge of music—in a one-night only solo recital this April.

Apr 27, 8:15pm. Y-Theatre, Youth Square, 238 Chai Wan Rd., $450-550 from www.urbtix.hk and www.playroll.hk.

David Greilsammer: Imaginary Bridges

Cavalia The circus rolls into town this spring. Created in Montreal in 2003 by Cirque du Soleil co-founder Norman Latourelle, “Cavalia” coincides with the Jockey Club’s 130th anniversary this year to bring its signature mix of stunning aerial acrobatics and equestrian stunts to the SAR. They’re really not horsing around: 50 horses will be performing with a range of artists against a 60-metre-wide multimedia backdrop, staged under the largest touring tent in the world.

Through Apr 26. The New Central Harbourfront, Central. $395-1,195 from www.hkticketing. com, VIP packages with after-show stable visits available from $1,495.

Stefano Bollani

Music Festivals Intimacy of Creativity 2015 Helmed by composer and artistic director Bright Sheng, this annual chamber music festival reaches its five year anniversary this year, continuing to offer a chance for closer dialogue between composer and performer. Sheng has once again handpicked six young composer fellows to present an eclectic musical program, which will be interpreted, revised and finally performed by a team of leading international artists. Pieces this year range from an energetic ode to New York to an interpretation of Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road” and more. Also don’t miss Hong Kong-born talent Ian Ng’s piece, “Igual,” originally written for ballet.

Apr 26, 4pm; May 3, 4pm. Theatre, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $200-300 from www.urbtix.hk. www.ic.shss.ust.hk.

Shakespeare in the Port 2015 Following a successful debut run last year, the homegrown arts festival Shakespeare in the Port is back, bringing affordable, down-to-earth adaptations of the bard’s works to the open air space at Cyberport. Featuring all-local talents, it will be a multi-lingual event this year: highlights include a bilingual production of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” and a Cantonese version of “The Tempest.” For more Bardolatry, check in for a 24-hour play that showcases new writing plus an outdoor film screening. Check the program online for more. Through May 3. Cyberport Podium, 100 Cyberport Rd., Pok Fu Lam. $150-300 from www.ticketflap.com.

The Sound of Music The classic musical graces the Hong Kong stage this May. Coming straight from the West End’s Palladium Theatre, the international tour of this old-school Rodgers and Hammerstein production has teamed up with the HK Youth Arts Foundation to cast Hong Kong children to play the Von Trapp kids. You’ll be 16 going on 17 all over again. Family ticket packages for two adults and two children from $1,888. May 15-Jun 21. Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-8500. $395-995 from www.hkticketing.com.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 25

ARTS Exhibitions

Zhang Kechun: The Yellow River Hollywood Road’s most recent addition, La Galerie, presents its third exhibition: Works by award-winning photographer Zhang Kechun. It’ll be a collection of photos taken along the second-longest river in China, collected over the course of four years. Traveling by folding bicycle, Zhang has documented the livelihoods that rely on the river all the way from Shandong to the mountain ridges of Qinghai. And you thought the harbor was impressive. Through May 1.

La Galerie, G/F, 74 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2540-4777.

Last e! chanc

French artist Eric Baudart will have his first solo show in Hong Kong at Edouard Malingue Gallery through May. His work is all about displaced contexts and mediums, which require closer inspection: a white-and-blue abstract painting is actually scratches on architecture paper; a set of golden beacon-like objects are actually street ads spray-painted gold; a triptych of brown cardboard is actually a set of meticulously worn out materials. One of the highlights?

An electric fan submerged in a vat of oil. Art! Through May 30. Edouard Malingue Gallery, 6/F, 33 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2810-0317.

Photographer Kent Foran documented what he saw during the Occupy protests, spending most nights in Mong Kok, Causeway Bay and Admiralty. He then distributed his photographs at the sites, inviting protestors to do anything they wanted to the photographs, capturing the individual, yet collective spirit of the Umbrella Movement.

This exhibition is a result of that effort.

You’ll see photos covered in tape, metal and more, or a half-eaten photograph to show how one protester was “hungry for democracy.” Visitors will be allowed to add their own voice to the exhibits, and space and materials will be provided for further contributions. Through Apr 25. Sense 99, 2/F, 99 Wellington St., Central, 9466-4695.

Courtesy of Edouard Malingue Gallery

Eric Baudart: Again, Again and Again

Occupy/Art

Conor McCreedy: Mccreedyblue The Cat Street Gallery springs back right after art fair month with the two-week-only Hong Kong debut of South Africa-born artist Conor McCreedy. Now based in Zurich, McCreedy has rapidly gained a following for his works that utilize only a uniquely engineered shade of blue, a pigment dubbed “Mccreedyblue.” They’re vast paintings that span both abstract and figurative imagery.

Check ‘em out while you can. Through May 2. The Cat Street Gallery, 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006.

26 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

nightlife

Edited by Andrea Lo andrea.lo@hkmagmedia.com Twitter: @andreas_lo

Gigs

Open Bar Djiboutii The drinks: Djiboutii specializes in tea-infused concoctions, with five signatures worth trying, including the Djiblutea ($115), made with lavender-infused vodka, cranberry tea, sloe berry liqueur, dark cacao liqueur, blueberries and lemon juice. A mish-mash of flavors you wouldn’t normally expect in a drink, it’s a perfect balance between sweet berries and sour citrus. Meanwhile, the Montego Fever ($110) is another complex cocktail full of flavor, consisting of Blackwell rum, chai tea, peach jam, tempus bitter and Aztec chocolate. If you like sweet, girly cocktails, try the Djiboulini ($130), made with Prosecco, pear puree, hibiscus water, rosehip rhubarb cordial and peppercorn and served in a champagne glass.

Why you’ll be back: Laidback and

The buzz: It’s almost a requirement these days

for buzzed-about bars to be just a little bit hard to find. Djiboutii is an African-inspired “urban sanctuary” that’s hidden down an unassuming alleyway in the quieter end of Wan Chai. It’s a mixed bag—alongside tea-infused cocktails, you’ll find Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes that are great for sharing.

The décor: Taking up a small open-air space with the crowd spilling out into the alleyway, Djiboutii is a world of its own. Everywhere you turn, you’ll find unexpected touches—from tribal decorations to jungle-themed wallpapers.There’s also a chandelier atop the bar and sexy purple lighting shining throughout.

Shaolin Fez Retro-funk, acid jazz, symphonic disco troupe Shaolin Fez is what happens when classical musicians get time off. The 12-piece ensemble is performing its first feature show this year. There’s something for everyone—you can expect funktastic covers of everyone from Jamiroquai and Duran Duran to Sia and Gotye. Apr 25, 8pm. Grappa’s Cellar, B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322. $288 from www.hodfords.com/online_ticketing/chandelier.

Clubs

Boris Another night, another DJ gets the party going at Volar. Berlin-based Boris plays an eclectic mix of disco, post-punk, kraut-rock and neotrance.

It’s cheaper before 12:30am, but remember Volar only becomes fun in the early hours.

Apr 24, 10pm. Volar, B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. $200 from www.ticketflap. com; $300 at the door before 12:30am; $350 thereafter.

Agnès b. Rue de Marseille Live Fashion brand Agnès b. is bringing back Rue De Marseille Live, a series of gigs set up to encourage the local indie music scene. On April 25, it’s guitar-swinging 90s-inspired group Teenage Riot (pictured) and singer-songwriter Subyub Lee. Wrapping things up on May 30 are math-folk four-piece GDJYB and indie pop band Salad Kowloon. Apr 25, 4pm; May 30, 4pm. Agnès B. Rue De Marseille, Shop G26, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Free.

Andrea Lo Shop 1, 2 Landale St., Wan Chai, 9449-0777.

Gorillaz Sound System DJ Set Remi Kabaka of Gorillaz Sound System comes to town for a DJ set. GSS is a four-man audiovisual offshoot of Gorillaz themselves, so what happens when an offshoot of an offshoot comes to town? Good tunes, at any rate. Apr 30, 10pm. Zuma, 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388. $380 from www.ticketflap.com; $480 at the door.

hk picks

Cliché Three Year Anniversary Since starting out three years ago, Cliché has grown from promoter to booker to record label.

At the anniversary extravaganza, they’ll be celebrating with their favorite beats. On April 24, DJs Andy Hart and Alex From Tokyo (who was actually born in Paris) take to the decks at Kee Club. On April 25, the party moves to latenight favorite Oma, with 15 DJs coming in from all over Asia and Europe to lend a helping hand to the celebrations. Finally, wrapping things up on April 26 is a free-flow brunch at Vibes featuring DJ sets from the Cliché team. Apr 24, 10pm, Kee Club, 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. Apr 25, 11pm, Oma, Lower Basement, Harilela House, 79 Wyndham St., Central, 2521-8815. Apr 26, Noon, Vibes, 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. $200 from www.ticketflap.com.

friendly—Djiboutii is everything you want in a neighborhood bar. It’s not all about the drinks, either—with an open kitchen on the side, the bar snacks smell too good to resist. Nibble on kebab skewers; naan bread dipped in baba ganoush; and the bestselling roast chicken, which is marinated for two hours and made with Lebanese herbs and secret ingredients.

Suffocation NYC-based heavy metal outfit Suffocation is doing a set, supported by Australia’s Truth Corroded and local band Dismembered.

A lot of gruesome names being thrown around here... Apr 24, 8:30pm. Hidden Agenda, Unit 2A, Wing Fu Industrial Building, 15-17 Tai Yip St., Ngau Tau Kok. $300 from www.ticketflap.com; $380 at the door.

Janette Slack Janette Slack celebrates one year of her DJ nights at Fly. Come dance to her signature tunes: she throws rock, funk and swing into a big blender marked “dance music” and serves it all up with a side order of block-rockin’ beats. The gig’s theme is 1930s gangster—don’t show up in your usual lazy hipster gear, please. Unless you’re a 1930s gangster hipster, in which case: carry on. Those dressed in fedoras or trilby hats get in for free.

May 2, 10pm. Fly, G/F, 24-30 Ice House St., Central, 2810-9902. $200 at the door, including two drinks and two shots.

Dyro Privé Group is celebrating its eighth birthday by bringing house DJ Dyro to the latest establishment under its roster, Bungalow nightclub. He was selected as No. 27 in DJ Mag’s Top 100 last year.

That’s higher than you’re ranked in anything, isn’t it? May 7, 10:30pm. Bungalow, Shop 2, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 2623-7868. $350 from www.eventbrite.hk; $500 at the door.

Noughts and Exes: The Final Show Hong Kong’s indie darlings Noughts and Exes are disbanding! The indie folk-pop band originally burst on to the scene in 2007, gaining traction in 2011 with a second album “The Start of Us.” Two years later they became the first Hong Kong band to release an album through a Kickstarter campaign. Over the years, they’ve grown into one of the city’s best-loved indie bands. Sadly, they’re now saying goodbye. Luckily for fans—or maybe just to prove this isn’t a Yoko situation— they’re coming together for one last hurrah at the Vine Centre. See them now, or never. Jun 6, 8pm. Vine Centre 2, 29 Burrows St., Wan Chai, 2573-0793. $180 from www.ticketflap.com; $220 at the door.

Nightlife Events Geronimo Shot Bar Second Anniversary Party Geronimo, the bar infamous for its bell— ring it and you buy everyone in the house a round of shots—is celebrating its second anniversary in Hong Kong. Originally a longstanding shot bar in Tokyo, there are more than 40 varieties on offer. HK Magazine does not condone binge-drinking, but come on—who drinks a shot for the taste?!

Apr 24-26, 8pm. Geronimo Shot Bar, 2/F, Winner Building, 27-39 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2833-9951. Price TBA. Chin Chin Bar Tequila Extravaganza Tequila doesn’t always have to be followed by regret. The Hyatt Regency’s fancy Chin Chin Bar is doing a Tequila Extravaganza throughout the month, with five specially created concoctions to get you drunk, the classy way. Try the Banarita, a jazzy take on the classic margarita—it’s infused with Amaretto for a hint of almond. Or go for the fruity Boat Rod, mixing tequila with Crème de Cassis blackcurrant liqueur, blueberries and strawberries. Through Apr 30. Chin Chin Bar, 3/F, Hyatt Regency, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3721-7722.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015 27

nightlife hk picks

Stone Nullah Tavern Stone Nullah Tavern introduces its unbeatable happy hour. Drinks are $1 each (!), doubling in price every 20 minutes over the course of two hours. Time to draw a graph! Mon-Fri, 5-7pm.

69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 3182-0128.

Happy Hours 208 Duecento Otto Two-for-one drinks and $60 deals on house red and white wines, Prosecco, San Miguel and Becks beers. $65 for Peroni draught beers. Daily, 3-6pm. 208 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0208.

Libertine For $188, you get free-flow beer, house spirits and wines and other standard drinks.

That’s not all: fresh oysters are available at $12 apiece. Daily 4-8pm. 26 Aberdeen St., Central, 2858-2022.

Lily and Bloom Lily and Bloom has a great happy hour deal: your first standard drink or cocktail will set you back just $20, and drinks are $45 after that. Mon-Fri, 5-8pm; Sat, 6-8pm. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Lion Rock Bar 20 percent off all standard drinks. Daily, 5-8pm. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167.

Alchemy Enjoy a buy-one-get-one-free deal on beers ($65), house wines (from $70) and house spirits. Mon-Sat, 3-7pm. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801.

Champs Buy-one-get-one-free on all drinks. Daily, 1-5am. 209-219 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-3386.

FINDS Two-for-one on all standard drinks. Mon-Fri, 3-8pm. 1/F, Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2522-9318.

Forte The bar’s new happy hour promotion offers three flavors of signature homemade grissini—cajun, parmesan cheese and black sesame—accompanied by selected red or white wine. The deal costs $88 per person.

Daily, 5-7pm. 2/F, L’hotel élan, 38 Chong Yip St., Kwun Tong, 3968-8222.

The Jockey 25 percent off drinks. Mon-Fri, 4-8pm.

G/F, Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley, 3572-2266.

28 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015

Pier 7 Café & Bar $40 for all beers, house spirits and red and white wines. Daily, 6-9pm. Shop M, Roof Viewing Deck, Central Pier 7, Star Ferry, Central, 2167-8377.

Room One Buy-one-get-one-free drinks. Sun-Mon, 3pm-1am. G/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5888.

Sugar Snazzy eastside rooftop bar Sugar has recently launched Tiki Tuesdays, with plenty of original tiki-themed creations on offer. Hope you like rum. And hangovers.

Tuesdays, 5-10pm. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

Tazmania Ballroom Two-for-one drinks and a free canapé buffet.

Daily, 5-8pm. 1/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2801-5009.

ToTT’s and Roof Terrace Buy-one-get-one-free deal on promotional cocktails, spirits, house wine and beer between 5-8pm. Daily, 5-8pm. The Excelsior Hong Kong, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2894-8888.

macau

Edited by

Charley Mulliner charlotte.mulliner@ hkmagmedia.com

hk picks

Macao International Film and Video Festival 2015 The ninth edition of this annual festival puts on a show of both international and local productions, complemented by a packed schedule of workshops, talks and exhibitions. Get your tickets now for May—the month of “Macao Indies.” The lineup features 26 local filmmakers and includes short features, animations and documentaries. Look out for “The Other Half” (May 13), a story that follows Juliet as she arrives in Macau following her mother’s death to decipher a diary of clues from beyond the grave, and “Fallen” (May 12), an animation involving a time-travelling boy and his skateboard. Indie indeed. Apr 15-May 17. Macao Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai, Macau Peninsula. $60 from www.ccm.gov.mo, (+853) 2840-0555 or www.macauticket.com.

Exhibitions

Stage

Valkyrie Octopus Contemporary textile artist Joana Vasconcelos brings the Valkyrie Octopus to Macau: a 35-meter-long, 20-meter-high sculpture that weighs in at 1,200 kilos and took 50 experts nearly 10 months to create. Made of more than 4,000 meters of patterned fabric that encompasses traditional Portuguese crochet elements, the Valkyrie is embellished with thousands of beads and LED lights. Vasconcelos first achieved international recognition in 2005 with her sculpture The Bride, a 5-meterhigh chandelier made of tampons (!), and was then the first woman to have a solo exhibition at the Chateau de Versailles, in 2012. You go, girl. Through Oct 31.

MGM Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula. Free.

Live Spectacle—Naruto A fan of Japanese manga? Then a live-action version of manga sensation “Naruto” should get you all worked up. The live spectacle— based on the first 27 volumes of the popular series by Masashi Kishimoto—will focus on the first part of Naruto’s life in an acting, dance and acrobatic performance. Intricate costumes, incredible make-up and immense special effects will all help bring these characters to life. May 22, 7pm; May 23-24, 1:30pm and 7pm. Venetian Theatre, The Venetian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai. $280-880 from www.cotaiticketing.com.

Back to the Moon for Good The current exhibitions at the Macao Science Center are definitely for the big kids or lunar nerds out there. “Back to the Moon for Good” is a 30-minute show in the Planetarium, narrated by Tim Allen, that revisits the pioneering space exploration of the 60s and 70s and takes you through a successful launch, landing and travel on the moon’s surface. While you’re here, why not check out the DNA, Earth, Robotic and Fun Science galleries? Daily, 10am-6pm.

Closed Weds. Macao Science Center, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat-sen, Macau Peninsula. $25-80 at the door. www.msc.org.mo.

Festivals Macau Myanmar Water Festival With many Burmese living in Macau, the annual Thingyan—Myanmar’s New Year water festival—is a big event in our sister SAR. It’s a whole weekend of water-based fun culminating in the wet and wild Water Festival Carnival on April 26 (Hac Sa Park, Coloane) that includes a splashing free-forall, Chinese and Burmese music and dance performances, and a spread of southeast Asian food of course. Check the festival schedule online for more information.

Apr 24-26. Hac Sa Bay Park, Coloane.

Free. mmoca.massn.com; whatson.macautourism.gov.mo.

War Sum Up This contemporary opera by experimental Danish theater group Hotel Pro Forma is a reflection on the brutal nature of war that’s already been slated to perform at the cutting-edge Brooklyn Academy’s Next Wave Festival. Featuring the Grammy Awardwinning Latvian Radio Choir, the cast of 12 singers tells the story through three main characters: a soldier suffering from PTSD, the ghost of a warrior killed in battle and a spy-turned-superwoman. Expect a dark, visually stunning performance. Jun 27, 8pm.

Macao Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai, Macau Pensinula. $100-300 from the Macao Cultural Centre box office, (+853) 2840-0555 or www.ccm.gov.mo.

NEXT WEEK Katy Perry in Macau end The queen of pop graces Macau with her presence next weekend. From humble beginnings as a gospel singer, Katy Perry hit the big time with 2008 single “I Kissed a Girl.” Since then, she’s dropped more mega hits than you can count: think “Teenage Dream,” “California Gurls” and “Roar.” It really does seem like Perry can’t possibly put a foot wrong. Except for marrying Russell Brand, of course.

May 1-2, 8pm. The Venetian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai. $380-1,680 from www.hkticketing.com.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 29

FILM

Edited by Evelyn Lok evelyn.lok@hkmagmedia.com

Moomins on the Riviera

Child 44

(Finland/France) The beloved Finnish cartoon characters were brought to life in their very first animated feature fi lm in late 2014, celebrating the 100th anniversary of creator Tove Janssens’ birth. This story tells of the Moomins’ journey as they sail down to the French Riviera and the glamor and extravagance they encounter, which eventually threatens their unity as a fairytale tribe.

(USA) See review, left.

Furious 7 (USA) Will the franchise ever end? Returning with presumably even more muscles and even more muscle cars, the seventh installment in the action series takes place after 2013’s “Fast & Furious 6.” The brother of the last fi lm’s baddie (Jason Statham) emerges to take his revenge on the crew led by Dominic Toretto (Vin Diesel). This is the late Paul Walker’s fi nal fi lm appearance.

Hill of Freedom

Child 44

PPPPP

(USA/UK) Mystery thriller. Directed by Daniel Espinosa. Starring Tom Hardy, Noomi Rapace, Joel Kinnaman, Gary Oldman, Paddy Considine. Category IIB. 138 minutes. Opened Apr 16.

An English language film set in Stalinist Russia means one thing only: cheesy Russian accents all round. “Child 44” falls easily into this trap, with plenty of dasvidaniyas, nasdarovjes and trilled Rs of varying quality. But think of it this way: at least this film’s British, Swedish and French cast can all settle on a single sufficiently foreign accent that almost passes muster. You’ll have to set aside your accent worries if you want a shot at enjoying “Child 44”—but this dark, tense thriller makes up for it with moments of real excellence.

It’s the final year of Stalin’s life, and Tom Hardy is Leo Demidov: a loyal instrument of the Soviet intelligence services. Leo is good at his job, which isn’t conducive to being a good man. Interrogation, torture and execution all lie easily enough on his conscience. But when Leo’s own wife Raisa (Noomi Rapace) is named as a Western spy, he’s plunged into a dilemma: denounce his wife and save his own life? Or doom himself and his family to death?

You’d think that’s enough for a full film, but it’s just the first act. For at the same time, Leo’s godson is found dead by the railroad tracks in Central Moscow. The child has been mutilated, his organs removed. But as Leo’s superior Major Kuzmin (Vincent Cassel) tells him: “murder is strictly a capitalist disease.” The state rules the murder an accidental death, and the family must fall in line or risk the same fate. Then a series of children’s bodies begin showing up, and Leo finds himself honor-bound to seek out a killer in a country where we are repeatedly told: “There is no murder in paradise.”

“Child 44” is a Cold War thriller seen from only one side, although in many ways it’s deeply conventional: the Russian state is presented as heartless and oppressive, and there’s no escape from its predations. A sense of fear pervades the whole film: dissent has swift, fatal consequences. Director Daniel Espinosa’s palette is all cold blues and bleak grays, punctuated again and again with steam trains hauling a cargo of misery and death across the Russian countryside.

Tom Hardy and Noomi Rapace deliver strong performances as a complicated husband-and-wife pairing, although much of their conflict fades away as the pair morphs into some kind of a crime-solving duo in the final act. That shifting around is one of the major issues of “Child 44.” The film just can’t quite decide on what it wants to be: a cold war spy thriller? A political drama? A redemptive romance?

A police procedural? “Child 44” squarely aims for all of the above, and gets a little too confused. I’d love to see a “The Killing”-style TV drama about the further exploits of KGB Detective Demidov, but there’s too much going on for a single film, which already clocks in at an overlong 138 minutes. The complexity of its plot means that “Child 44” sadly underuses much of its stellar cast: Gary Oldman, Joel Kinnaman and Paddy Considine all suffer from a lack of screen time, and that selfsame struggle for genre hampers its characters.

But when “Child 44” does it well, it does it very well indeed. There are standout moments of tension and release, scenes which would be at home in the very best of thriller flicks. Deeply nervous buildups are offset with bursts of frantic action, and the atmosphere of oppression that Espinosa has worked so hard to build comes into its own. For all its plotting faults, “Child 44” has terrifically magnetic moments that draw you in, even if the Russian accents do their best to push you away again. Adam White

Helios

(France) In this documentary about the legendary house of Christian Dior, director Frédéric Tcheng managed to get a rare insider’s look at Raf Simons’ fi rst couture collection for the brand as artistic director—in what fashion experts are dubbing the most honest peek into the industry ever. Opens Apr 30.

30 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, april 24, 2015

(Taiwan) Veteran director Sylvia Chang makes a comeback after a seven-year long hiatus.

Focusing a lens on her hometown of Taipei, “Murmur of the Hearts” looks at three estranged members of a family and the ways they react to compassion and perhaps, reconciliation.

Opens Apr 30.

(Hong Kong) This Hong Kong crime thriller stars an ensemble cast. In the good guy corner: Shawn Yue and Nick Cheung. In the opposing corner: Chang Chen as the titular baddie Helios, who helps a terrorist group forge weapons of mass destruction. And caught in the middle?

Jacky Cheung, as a physics professor who’s working with two Korean weapons experts.

Opens May 1.

Home (USA) Dreamworks lands with a brand new animated tale of friendship between a banished alien named Oh (Jim Parsons) and a human girl named Tip (Rihanna as a non-sexy cartoon character?), who must help him save his race before they are exterminated and planet Earth destroyed in the process. PPP

White God (Hungary) When a young girl is forced to abandon her dog in a society that deems mongrels “unfi t” to be kept, it stops at nothing to reunite with her again—even if it means banding with all the other literal underdogs of society to instigate a dangerous uprising. It’s been called a sharp parable that questions human’s authority over other animals, and an apt metaphor for politics. Dog-lovers: gear up.

Opens Apr 30.

Unfi nished Business (USA) Vince Vaughn, Tom Wilkinson, and Dave Franco are business associates whose plans go awry when they arrive in Europe about to seal the contract of their lifetime—just in time for a fetish convention and a global economic conference. Sounds like “Eurotrip,” “The Hangover,” and “Horrible Bosses” all tediously rolled into one. Opens Apr 30.

Opening The Avengers: Age of Ultron (USA) Marvel fans have been frothing at the mouth waiting for the sequel to “The Avengers” since it came out in 2012. The fate of mankind is (once again) hanging by a thread, this time as Tony Stark (Robert Downey Jr.) creates Ultron, an artifi cial intelligence which decides that the best way to bring peace to the world is to exterminate all humans. It’s up to The Avengers to join forces once more to protect our home… but not without the help of two mysterious siblings, Pietro and Wanda Maximoff.

Opened Apr 23.

Coming Soon

Dior and I

Murmur of the Hearts

(South Korea) Film auteur Hong Sang-soo is known for his heavily autobiographical works, which have gained a following on the festival circuit. In this new short but sweet offering (at only 66 minutes), we follow Mori’s story: he’s a Japanese man who fl ies to Seoul to see Kwon, the Korean woman he still pines for. As Kwon returns to the city, she sorts through Mori’s letters to make sense of what has happened.

Continuing Angel Whispers (Hong Kong) This Hong Kong indie heavyweight won funding at 2014’s Asia Film Financing Forum, and is brought to the screen by actress slash- debut-director Carrie Ng Ka-lai (“Naked Killer”), this revenge-thriller follows a group of prostitutes and their landlady in Sham Shui Po who must battle a mysterious killer who has just claimed the life of one of their sworn sisters.

The Immigrant (USA) This 2013 fi lm fi nally reaches Hong Kong screens. Marion Cotillard plays Ewa Cybulski, a Polish immigrant new to 1930s New York who is tricked into working for a burlesque dancing troupe owned by one Bruno Weiss (Joaquin Phoenix). Meanwhile, she meets a dashing magician who offers to help her reunite with her sister, who is quarantined on Ellis Island. Ewa’s tale is captivating and heartbreaking all at once, while Cotillard’s performance keeps you guessing at her character’s loyalties. PPPP

Kabukicho Love Hotel (Japan) Director Ryuichi Hiroki is one of the best-known auteurs in the softcore “pink” film genre and is often praised as one of the most intelligent story-crafters in the industry. He brings us into the throes of seedy Kabukicho, Tokyo’s red-light district, where love hotel manager Toru (Shota Sometani) sees through a day and a night’s activities: watching the evening’s characters and employees sift in and out, never seeming to stay long.

The Loft (USA) James Marsden, Wentworth Miller, Karl Urban, Eric Stonestreet, and Matthias Schoenaerts. These fi ve studs decide to share a New York loft where they can bring their mistresses for secret trysts—no more of that shady hotel business. But when they find a dead woman in the house, suddenly their secrets aren’t so safe after all. Yeah, they totally deserve it.

Maps to the Stars (USA) “Body horror” legend David Cronenberg brings us this savage deconstruction of Hollywood’s messed up, perfect elite. Julianne Moore plays a fast-fading actress; Mia Wasikowska her disfi gured PA; Evan Bird is a child star looking back on the ghosts of his past; John Cusack plays his overbearing shrink father while Robert Pattinson is a limo driver with much bigger dreams. Sounds like the recipe for a deliciously poisonous drama.

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Golden Harvest Cinema, 2622-6688 www.goldenharvest.com

UA Cinema, 3516-8811 www.uacinemas.com.hk

MCL Cinema, 3413-6688 www.mclcinema.com

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The Grand Cinema, 2196-8170 www.thegrandcinema. com.hk

Song One (USA) Anne Hathaway plays a struggling graduate student who learns that her brother is in a coma. In predictable indie rom-com fashion, she roams through the places in Brooklyn that he frequented and accidentally gets involved with his folk-rock idol. Whoops! It’s entirely as one-note as you’d expect. P

The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water

Wild Tales

(USA) The world’s favorite underwater pineapple-dweller and his geeky friends embark on another wild adventure. This time the nefarious pirate Burger Beard (Antonio Banderas) has stolen the secret Krabby Patty burger recipe. SpongeBob and his arch-nemesis Plankton must team up to get it back—on land.

(Argentina) In this anthology of madcap drama and adventure from Damián Szifron, six short stories pick apart the themes of violence and vengeance through everyday shenanigans: a conversation between strangers on a plane, a waitress who adds a “special ingredient” to a dish, a man who gets his car towed one time too many. Strap in for a funny, dark ride. PPPP

Two Thumbs Up

When Marnie Was There

(Hong Kong) “Two Thumbs Up” debuted at the Hong Kong International Film Fest this year. A team of hapless gangsters led by Lucifer (Francis Ng) dress up a minibus as a police car—and, toy guns in hand, head to the New Territories for a robbery or two.

Little do they know a more murderous gang of killer police imposters is roaming the roads.

The Water Diviner (Australia/Turkey) In Russell Crowe’s directorial debut, he plays a grieving father, journeying to Turkey in the aftermath of World War I’s Gallipoli Campaign as he searches for his two lost sons, both missing in action. History factoid: the Gallipoli Campaign saw one of the most signifi cant casualties for Australian and New Zealand forces, and the day they landed on Turkish shores is known today as Anzac Day. Yep: it’s offi cially the most Aussie fi lm ever.

(Japan) Studio Ghibli’s latest anime heartbreaker is the second feature by its new resident director Hiromasa Yonebayashi (“The Secret World of Arrietty”).

Based on Joan G. Robinson’s novel, it’s a sleepy story of a peculiar friendship between the withdrawn Anna and the lovely, unjudgemental Marnie—a blonde girl whom only Anna can see.

Wolf Totem (China/France) In this cautionary tale about rapid modernization, a young student is sent to Inner Mongolia during the height of the Cultural Revolution. He ends up adopting a wolf cub—and unknowingly wreaking havoc across the land. Directed by Oscar award-winning Jean-Jacques Annaud (“Seven Years in Tibet”): it’s brimming with captivating cinematography, heart-stopping action and tension and a memorably epic title theme. PPPP

Special Screenings

Xavier Dolan—Impossible Love: The Selfi e Generation Following on from last year’s release of “Tom at the Farm” by Xavier Dolan, Broadway Cinematheque is hosting a set of six fi lms, spotlighting works by the young CanadianFrench director. Films include: “Mommy,” (Apr 30) a story of a single mother and her 15-year-old ADHD son; “Heartbeats,” (May 2), about two close friends who fall for the same boy; and “Laurence Anyways” (May 8), a poignant tale about the testing relationship between Laurence, who has decided to transition into a woman, and his girlfriend Fred. Apr 30-May 15. Broadway Cinematheque and Palace IFC. $85-90.

Duran Duran: Unstaged (UK) David Lynch and Duran Duran: what an apt pairing of weird and awesome. Lynch was at the helm of the band’s 2010 concert in LA, superimposing super-Lynchian images across the stage. Now you’ll get to see a brand new 112-minute cut of the gig, starring the original band members as well as guest performers such as Kelis and Gerard Way (My Chemical Romance). May 2, 3:30pm.

The Sky, 1/F, Olympian City 2, 18 Hoi Ting Rd., West Kowloon, 2359-3166. $80 from www.ghticket.com.

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, april 24, 2015 31

Market Place

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32 HK MAGAZINE

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The market information appearing in this publication is obtained and re-transmitted from sources believed to be reliable but which have not been independently verified; no guarantee, representation or warranty is made and no responsibility or liability as to its accuracy or completeness is accepted. No liability is accepted whatsoever for any direct, indirect or consequential loss arising from the use of this publication. The market information provided in this publication is not and should not be construed as an offer to sell or the solicitation of an offer to purchase any landed property and, accordingly, do not have any legal binding effect whatsoever on Island Property Consultancy Limited and/ or its clients. The market information contained in this publication is not intended to provide any professional advice. As such, this publication should not be relied upon in that regard. *Price correct at time of press.*

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 33

Free Will Astrology

PROPERTY

Rob Brezsny

TAURUS (Apr 20-May 20): I usually have no objection to your devoted concern (I won’t use the phrase “manic obsession”) with security and comfort. But there are rare phases in every Taurus’s life cycle when ironclad stability becomes a liability. Cruising along in a smooth groove threatens to devolve into clunking along in a gutless rut. Now is such a phase. As of this moment, it is healthy for you to seek out splashes of unpredictability. Wisdom is most likely to grow from uncertainty. Joy will emerge from an eagerness to treasure the unknown.

GEMINI (May 21-Jun 20): There may be a flood-like event that will wash away worn-out stuff you don’t need any more. There might be an earthquake-type phenomenon that only you can feel, and it might demolish one of your rotten obstacles. There could be a lucky accident that will knock you off the wrong course (which you might have thought was the right course). All in all, I suspect it will be a very successful week for benevolent forces beyond your control. How much skill do you have in the holy art of surrender?

CANCER (Jun 21-Jul 22): What is your biggest excuse? Or rather, what is your THICKEST, SICKEST, MOST DEBILITATING EXCUSE? We all have one: a reason we tell ourselves about why it’s difficult to live up to our potential; a presumed barrier that we regard as so deeply rooted that we will never be able to break its spell on us. Maybe it’s a traumatic memory. Maybe it’s a physical imperfection or a chronic fear. In accordance with the current astrological omens, Cancerian, you’d be wise to do an audit and reassessment of your own LAMEST EXCUSE. I suspect you now have insight about it that you’ve never had before. I also think you have more power than usual to at least partially dismantle it.

LEO (Jul 23-Aug 22): If you were a supporting character in a popular TV drama, the producers would be cooking up a spin-off show with you in a starring role. If you were in an indie rock band, you’d be ready to move from performing at 300-seat venues to clubs with an audience capacity of 2,000.

If you have always been just an average egocentric romantic like the rest of us, you might be on the verge of becoming a legend in your own mind—in which case it would be time to start selling T-shirts, mugs, and calendars with your image on them.

And even if you are none of the above, Leo, I suspect you’re ready to rise to the next level.

VIRGO (Aug 23-Sep 22): Free at last! Free at last!

Thanks to the Lord of the Universe or the Flying Spaghetti Monster or a burst of crazy good luck, you are free at last! You are free from the burden that made you say things you didn’t mean! You are free from the seductive temptation to rent, lease, or even sell your soul! Best of all, you are free from the mean little voice in your head—you know, the superstitious perfectionist that whispers weird advice based on fearful delusions! So now what will you do, my dear? You have escaped from the cramped, constricted conditions. Maybe you can escape to wide-open spaces that will unleash the hidden powers of your imagination.

LIBRA (Sep 23-Oct 22): “To me, there is no greater act of courage than being the one who kisses first,” says Libra actress and activist Janeane Garofalo.

I can think of other ways to measure bravery, but for your immediate future, her definition will serve just fine. Your ultimate test will be to freely give your tenderness and compassion and empathy—without any preconditions or expectations. For the sake of your own integrity and mental health, be steadfast in your intention to always strike the first blow for peace, love, and understanding.

SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21): It will soon be that time when you are halfway between your last birthday and your next birthday. I invite you to make this a special occasion. Maybe you can call it your anti-birthday or unbirthday. How to celebrate?

Here are some ideas: 1. Imagine who you would be if you were the opposite of yourself. 2. Write a list of all the qualities you don’t possess and the things you don’t need and the life you don’t want to live.

3. Try to see the world through the eyes of people

who are unlike you. 4. Extend a warm welcome to the shadowy, unripe, marginal parts of your psyche that you have a hard time accepting, let alone loving. 5. Any other ways you can think of to celebrate your anti-birthday?

SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22-Dec 21): As I climb the first hill along my regular hike, both sides of the path are dominated by a plant with glossy, three-lobed leaves.

They’re so exuberant and cheerful, I’m tempted to caress them, even rub my face in their bright greenery. But I refrain, because they are poison oak.

One touch would cause my skin to break out in an inflamed rash that would last for days. I encourage you, too, to forgo contact with any influence in your own sphere that is metaphorically equivalent to the alluring leaves of the poison oak.

CAPRICORN (Dec 22-Jan 19): Today the French Capricorn painter Henri Matisse (1869-1954) is regarded as a foremost pioneer of modern art.

Some critics say his innovative influence on painting nearly matched Picasso’s. But during the first part of the 20th century, his work often provoked controversy. When a few of his paintings appeared at a major exhibition in Chicago, for example, local art students were shocked by what they called its freakishness. They held a mock trial, convicted Matisse of artistic crimes, and burned his painting “Blue Nude” in effigy. I don’t expect that you will face reactions quite as extreme as that in the coming weeks, Capricorn. But it will make sense to express yourself with such forceful creativity and originality that you risk inciting strong responses.

AQUARIUS (Jan 20-Feb 18): Leonardo da Vinci had skills in many fields, ranging from botany to engineering to cartography, but he is best known as a painter. And yet in his 67 years on the planet, he finished fewer than 40 paintings. He worked at a very gradual pace. The “Mona Lisa” took him 14 years! That’s the kind of deliberate approach I’d like to see you experiment with in the coming weeks, Aquarius. Just for a while, see what it’s like to turn down your levels of speed and intensity.

Have you heard of the Slow Food Movement?

Have you read Carl Honoré’s book “In Praise of Slowness?” Do you know about Slow Travel, Slow Media, and Slow Fashion?

PISCES (Feb 19-Mar 20): Modern movies don’t scrimp on the use of the f-bomb. Actors in “The Wolf of Wall Street” spat it out 569 times.

The word-that-rhymes-with-cluck was heard 326 times in “End of Watch,” while “Brooklyn’s Finest” racked up 270 and “This Is the End” erupted with an even 200. But this colorful word hasn’t always been so prominent a feature. Before 1967, no actor had ever uttered it on-screen. That year, Marianne Faithfull let it fly in the film “I’ll Never Forget What’s’isname.” In the coming weeks, Pisces, I invite you to break a taboo that’s maybe not as monumental as Faithfull’s quantum leap, but still fabulously fun and energizing. Be a liberator! End the repression! Release the blocked vitality!

ARIES (Mar 21-Apr 19): If you’re stumped about what present to give someone for a special occasion, you might buy him or her a gift card.

It’s a piece of plastic that can be used as cash to buy stuff at a store. The problem is, a lot of people neglect to redeem their gift cards. They leave them in drawers and forget about them.

Financial experts say there are currently billions of dollars going to waste on unredeemed gift cards. This is your metaphor of the moment, Aries. Are there any resources you’re not using?

Any advantages you’re not capitalizing on?

Any assets you’re ignoring? If so, fix the problem.

Homework: Find out what you’ve been hiding from yourself — but be kind about it.

Testify at FreeWillAstrology.com.

34 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

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HOME / EVERYTHING ELSE SAVAGE LOVE Dan Savage I’m an American woman living abroad and have started a relationship with a wonderful man from a Middle Eastern country. We are having a great time exploring what is a foreign country for both of us. The looming issue is sex, of course. He is a moderate Muslim, but he grew up in a strict conservative family and country. He’s 25 and has never even held hands with a woman.

He is excited to change this now that he has broken away from his family. I have had many partners, both men and women, and am quite sexually experienced. I am curious about what to do when the time comes.

Do you have advice on how to best go about taking a man’s virginity? I want to avoid as much insecurity on his part as I can.

– Going To Be His First Be gentle, GTBHF. Also, make it clear beforehand that you’re his girlfriend and not his counselor or spiritual adviser. If he’s still struggling with the sex-negative, woman-phobic zap that his upbringing (and a medieval version of his faith) put on his head, he needs to work through that crap before he gets naked with you. He may have some sort of post-climax meltdown or crisis—like the ones so many repressed gay dudes have the first time they have sex with a man—and you’ll be kind and understanding, of course, but you won’t allow him to lay responsibility for the choice he made on you. As for the sex itself…

Take the pressure off him by letting him know that this—his first time, your first time together— is about pleasure and connection, not about performance and mastery. Let him know that you don’t expect him to know what he’s doing at every moment, that a little fumbling and adjusting are normal even with more experienced folks, and that you’re both allowed to stop the action, talk about whatever’s going on, and then start again.

And finally, GTBHF, let him know that you’re going to take the lead and reassure him that there’s nothing emasculating about being with—and being led by—a sexually empowered woman. Quite the opposite: A truly masculine straight man isn’t afraid of a woman who knows what she’s doing and what she wants.

I am a 37-year-old man, and I sometimes get unbidden erections in public. They aren’t glaringly obvious unless maybe I’m wearing a swimsuit at the pool, but of course, regardless of the situation, I feel like everyone can see it. I’ve heard people say it’s rude or could even be perceived as predatory to sport a visible woody under your clothes in public. There are countless websites devoted to shaming men with boners in public, and that doesn’t help the situation. Despite being mortified, deep down I want to believe that it should be okay to go about my business as long as I’m not being creepy. Is it okay to just go about my business until my hard-on subsides?

– Bummed Over Normal Erotic Raisings The only people who’ll notice (or linger over) your unbidden erections are the ones staring at your crotch—and they’re the creeps, BONER, not you.

So go about your business… unless you’re at the pool, in which case find an open poolside lounger and lie on your stomach until the crisis passes.

I have an open FWB thing going with a guy.

He is my primary sex partner. We recently stopped using condoms when we’re together because we both passed STI tests several months ago and neither of us has been with anyone else since. But we are both free to have sex with other people, and it’s bound to happen sooner or later. If we always use condoms with the other people, is it safe for us to continue having condom-free sex with each other?

– What’s The Risk

Condoms—when used consistently and correctly— greatly reduce your risk of acquiring a sexually transmitted infection. They provide excellent protection against HIV infection, gonorrhea, and chlamydia (diseases spread by genital secretions); they’re slightly less effective at protecting you against herpes, HPV, and syphilis (diseases spread by skin-to-skin contact). The condom-free sex you’re currently having with your fuck buddy can be regarded as risk-free because you’ve both been tested, you’re both STI-free, and you’re both not having sex with other people. But some risk will creep into your condom-free sex after you start having sex with other people, WTR—even if you’re using condoms. Your risk of getting an STI will be much, much lower if you use condoms— consistently and correctly—with those other partners, but sex with other partners will introduce some risk.

I’m in a BDSM-centered relationship with my Master/boyfriend and wear his collar.

We have a tumultuous relationship and argue often. The center of these arguments seems to be that I see myself as a strong female and in control of many aspects of my life, and he’d rather have me just go along with whatever he says. I like some BDSM play in the bedroom, but he wants me to be submissive to him 24/7. I’ve wanted breast augmentation for many years.

He joined me at the first consult and was talking about the smallest implants possible.

I have a small chest, and he is attracted to small chests, but I knew I wanted something more substantial—especially since I am paying for it and it’s my body. I ended up going bigger than what he wanted without telling him, and he’s expressed anger about what I did to “his body” (he believes he owns my body) without his consent. I couldn’t be happier with my boobs. He hates them.

Now I just don’t know about my boyfriend.

I love him, but I feel like he can’t remove himself from decisions I make for myself.

– Tits In Trouble Your Master/boyfriend wants a slave/girlfriend—he wants (and seems to think he’s in) a total power exchange relationship. But you want a guy who’s your equal out of the bedroom (and can’t dictate implant sizes to you because it’s not “his body,” it’s yours) and a fun BDSM play-partner/Master in the bedroom. You two need to have an out-of-role conversation/renegotiation about your interests in kink, and your limits and his expectations—and if you can’t get on the same page (if he can’t dial it way back), you’ll have to end things.

I agreed with most of your response to ADULT, the woman whose boyfriend has a thing for diapers. She said she didn’t enjoy diaper play but mentioned that she got wet wearing a diaper. You wrote: “Something about being put in a diaper turns you on.”

I have to disagree. I just finished a great book called “Come as You Are” by Emily Nagoski, and she cites some compelling science in support of the idea that what our genitals do is NOT always indicative of what we find sexually appealing. It’s called “arousal nonconcordance.” Nagoski uses the example of a college boy who witnessed a rape: he was physically aroused by what he saw but emotionally disgusted. In the case of ADULT, it may be important to understand that just because your genitals are responsive, that doesn’t mean that you are “into it” on some level.

– Longtime Reader And Fan Thanks for writing, LRAF—and I’m going to pick up Emily Nagoski’s book!

On the Lovecast, it’s Dan vs. Cheryl Strayed in Advice Clash of the Titans: savagelovecast.com.

Find the Savage Lovecast (my weekly podcast) every Tuesday at thestranger.com/savage.mail@savagelove.net

HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 39

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s job

SMARt JOBs

Food s sDesignbs Education s & bBeverage s & Beauty s s Corporate s s s s Health s s s b b b b b b b b o o o o o o o o o Elsejo ob job Job Job job J J J J J j J j J J Media Everything t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t

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Wooloomooloo Group is a Hong Kong based restaurant group that has served sizzling premium steaks and time-honored grill favorites since 2004. We have established three successful brands, Wooloomooloo Prime, Wooloomooloo Steakhouse and The Chop House, at prominent locations in Hong Kong and Singapore. 自2004年成立至今，Wooloomooloo 餐飲集團以香港為基地，一直以實而不華的手法烹調澳洲牛扒及各式佳餚。現已於香港及新加坡的地標位置建立了三個成功品牌 包括Wooloomooloo Prime、Wooloomooloo Steakhouse 及 The Chop House。 Due to expansion, we would like to invite energetic service professionals to join our dynamic team for the following positions: 現誠聘充滿活力及擁有卓越服務態度的專業服務人員加入我們的團隊，職位如下：

Restaurant Manager Assistant Manager Supervisor Captain Server Host / Hostess Bartender

餐廳經理 副經理 主任 部長 侍應生 接待員 調酒員

Jr. Sous Chef Chef De Partie Pastry Chef Demi Chef Commis Chef Dishwasher

初級副總廚 部門主管 糕餅廚師 高級廚師 初級廚師 洗碗清潔員

Due to expansion, we would like to invite energetic service professionals to join our dynamic team for the following positions 完善的員工褔利包括 :

✓ 6 days off per month 每月六天例假 ✓ Birthday leave 生日假期 ✓ Medical insurance 醫療津貼 ✓ Staff dining discount 員工優惠

✓ 12 days paid annual leave 有薪年假12天 ✓ Bereavement leave 恩恤假 ✓ Dental insurance 牙醫津貼 ✓ On job traning 在職培訓

✓ Paid sick leave 有薪病假 ✓ Target bonus 達標獎金 ✓ Employee meals 員工膳食 ✓ Career advancement 良好晉升機會

Interested parties, please email your resume with current and expected salary to hr@wooloo-mooloo.com 有意者請將個人履歷及薪金要求電郵至 hr@wooloo-mooloo.com www.wooloo-mooloo.com

Full Time Drama Leader and Programme Facilitator

All candidates MUST be open-minded with a learning orientated attitude, a team player with excellent communication skills.

• Hair Stylists minimum 5 years experience.

• Senior Stylist over 9 years experience. International references are a plus.

• Creative Stylist over 12 years experience. International

references are a plus. Free Lance Stylists are welcome.

• Spa Therapists minimum 8 years experience. Self-motivated.

• Receptionist independent and able to work under pressure.

English speaking is preferable.

• Junior (hair assistant) no experience required, training provided.

Please send your CV to severine@emmanuelf.com.

Shop 211, 2/F, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Road Central www.emmanuelf.com

We seek candidates with at least 2 years of experience teaching drama and have a Drama degree.

A formal teaching qualification is an advantage.

Practising actors/directors with extensive teaching experience are also considered. Candidates must be energetic, proactive, and be able to introduce children to the world of theatre in fun, creative and engaging ways.

Candidates must also be a team player and help administrate and facilitate various projects and performances.

Experience in relevant theatre and arts related projects is needed. Part time work is also available.

How to Apply: Please email your CV and covering letter to Recruitment@FaustWorld.com Shortlisted candidates will be invited for interview. www.FaustWorld.com

Our company was established since 1994.

1) Part-Time Models (Age: 16 to

45 years old) For Photo Shooting/Fitting Job/ Fashion Shows/TV Commercials/ Products Image Representatives/ Event Promotions - Requirements: Stylish/Cool/Smart/ Elegant/Sweet/Camera Face

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3 months to 15 years old) Baby & Kid Products Image Representatives/Press Conferences/ Photo shooting for Newspapers and Magazine/TV Commercials - Requirements: Cute/Smart/Active/ Camera Face/Twins

3) Singer (Age: 18 or above)

Love singing. Clear Pronunciation.

For Hotel and Casino

If you are interested, please contact Ms. Leung at 2740 9059 or email us for casting.

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ar MAR mar mar MAR mar mar MAR mar mar MAR mar mar MAR mar mar MA S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S S 40 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, April 24, 2015

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Market SMART JOBS Place

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Operation Manager

- With management experience

Sales Manager

- With sales experience in beauty salon

Marketing Planner

- Study in Journalism, no experience, Reporter experience is preferable

Beauty Consultant

- With Beauty knowledge and sales capability - Good commission and benefits

Beautician

- At least 2 years or above experience • Bar Manager

• Assistant Restaurant Manager

• Bartender/Barmaid

• Pastry Chef

• Supervisor

• Chef de Partie

• Captain

• Demi Chef de Partie

• Host / Hostess

• Senior Cook / Cook

• Waiter / Waitress

• Dishwasher / Cleaner

Beautician Trainee

- No experience, diligent, provide job training

Receptionist / Customer Service

*All above positions must fluent in English & Cantonese

We offer annual leave, bonus, a good working environment with advancement opportunities. *5 days leave per month, work 9 hours a day Interested parties, please call: 5680 3382 for an interview.

(Location: Central • Causeway Bay • Tsim Sha Tsui)

HIRING NOW A new and expanding group is hiring for the following positions in Aberdeen:

Head Chef Sous Chef Chef de Partie Commi Chef Cleaner

Phonics Teacher

All interested parties please contact kitchenjobshk@gmail.com with resume and salary expectation.

A well-established Tai Po English Bar invites qualified and enthusiastic candidates to join us:

Fill that vacancy.

To advertise, please contact Lamy Lam on 2534 9560

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AR

Power Elite English Learning Centre is an established English Learning Centre in Homantin providing a wide range of English courses from phonics, spelling, reading, grammar and writing for children aged 2.5 – 13 years old. We are seeking experienced applicants to join our team of passionate and well-qualified educators who care for effective, quality English learning.

1. Waiter / Waitress (Full Time / Part Time) Income: 10K up (Full Time) /

up to $60 per hour (Part Time)

2. Bartender (Full Time)

Monthly income up to 14K

Applicants apply for the positions 1 & 2 must be fluent in spoken English.

All above positions offered (except part-time): Paid Annual Leave, Staff Discount, Monthly Incentive, Discretionary Bonus, Career Opportunities, In-house Training Program etc.

Interested candidates please send your full resume and expected salary to info@kingsbelly.com or by fax at 2663-3307 All information collected are for recruitment purposes only.

Responsibilities: 1. Conduct interactive and interesting Phonics classes for kindergarten and primary school children 2. Assess and report children’s progress on a regular basis 3. Handle parents’ enquiries Requirements: 1. Degree holder in English, Linguistics or Education 2. Familiar with Jolly Phonics/ Letterland/ RWI 3. Lively, enthusiastic, patient, responsible and interact well with children 4. Minimum 2 years experience in teaching phonics 5. Willing to work on Saturdays 6. Immediate availability preferred

Writing Teacher

Responsibilities: 1. Develop teaching materials for Writing courses 2. Conduct interactive and creative Writing classes for primary and secondary school students 3. Prepare, mark homework and assessment reports 4. Assess and report children’s progress on a regular basis 5. Handle parents’ enquiries Requirements: 1. Degree holder in English, Linguistics or Education 2. Familiar with IGCSE, GCE, IB and AP syllabus 3. Proficient in grammar knowledge and writing styles 4. Ability to track the progress of individual students and set improvement targets 5. Responsible, organised, patient, cheerful and interact well with children 6. Minimum 2 years experience in teaching writing 7. Willing to work on Saturdays 8. Immediate availability preferred Please send in your application with a full CV stating your expected salary to cherie@powerelite.com.hk HK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, April 24, 2015 41

First Person After eight years, Tam Yiu-chung has stepped down as chairman of the pro-Beijing Democratic Alliance for the Betterment of Hong Kong. The member of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference tells Isabelle Hon about his challenging childhood, his path to politics, and why he would never want to be Chief Executive.

I was born and raised in Hong Kong.

My father was a seaman who was rarely at home. I am the eldest brother among four siblings. I got used to being the leader.

The seven people in our family lived in a subdivided unit of around 100 square feet in Sham Shui Po. There were four other families packed in the same unit. Your neighbors next door could hear you. We had to share a kitchen and toilets.

Living there, we learned to be really good at time management. People would knock on the door when you spent too much time in the toilet.

The biggest pain was there wasn’t enough water. Before the Dong River started supplying water to Hong Kong, the water was cut off if there was no rain. The water supply came for one hour every four days. Sometimes we had to take basins to other districts to collect water.

We didn’t have much entertainment in childhood. Most of the time we stayed at home. Having a bicycle was a privilege.

Before I could graduate [from secondary school], I dropped out to work at a department store. I was doing shop window displays.

I was young and willing to learn. I studied English and graphic design after work.

I joined the Department Store Workers Association and later became vice-president.

Then I joined the Federation of Trade Unions.

I was responsible for cultural and recreation activities. Cheung Ming-man only became well known after he won our singing contest.

At 32, I was a representative for the Labour Advisory Board. I was young and energetic— seniors kept pushing me up. I then left the department store at 1979 to concentrate on fighting for worker’s rights.

A group of people including Szeto Wah and I represented the employee side of the LAB, while Henry Tang represented the employers.

1985 was the turning point of my life.

I joined the Basic Law Drafting Committee and the Legislative Council.

It was a great opportunity to work with committee members from the mainland.

They were all important figures including government officials, scholars and specialists.

People always say “One Country, Two Systems.” Some don’t notice that the starting point should be “One Country.” If there is no “One Country,” there’s no “Two Systems.”

We have to protect the integrity of China, banning foreign political parties from making issues within the territory, and cutting contact between them and Hong Kong. Therefore we need to carry out Article 23 [of the Basic Law].

It says “Hong Kong shall enact laws on its own to prohibit any act of treason, secession, sedition, subversion against the Central People’s Government…” There’s a “shall” in the sentence, so that’s a thing we should do.

“ If

there is no ‘One Country,’ there’s no ‘Two Systems’.”

In fact, there was a similar article in the [pre-1997] Hong Kong Law, but at that time Hong Kong still belonged to the Queen.

After the Handover, we should update the law to close the loophole.

People know I am rational, practical and take my job seriously. If I criticize someone, people really take it as a serious matter.

I asked Donald Tsang to increase the “fruit money” [old age allowance] when it was around $700. At first he said “OK” but it had to be means-tested beforehand.

I criticized him for “turning back the clock,” and he changed his mind.

But I have never thought of being Chief Executive. On a committee what you have to do is watch the government and point out if they have done anything wrong. As a Chief Executive you need to lead the whole of Hong Kong, which requires lots of abilities.

I don’t think I am capable of this.

I married at 25. But I rarely spend time with my wife. Besides the daily six to seven hours of sleep, I spend all my time at work.

My wife never complains. She doesn’t have to work so she learns piano, draws and plays with our grandson.

For me there is no difference between weekdays and weekends. I can only rest and spend time with my family during longer holidays.

I enjoy swimming and badminton. Nowadays since I’m getting old, I’ve started to do tai chi.

I am already 65. I will step down from the presidency of the DAB this month. It’s time to give opportunities to the young.

I am still a member of the Legislative Council until next year. Let’s see what happens after that.

I picked up Putonghua from those meetings.

Photo: Kirk Kenny

42 HK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, april 24, 2015

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