Where HK December 2015 by HK Magazine

Hong Kong

DECEMBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

TAKE ON 30 CHALLENGES IN THREE DAYS CHECK OUT HONG KONG’S KOREAN RESTAURANT SCENE EXPLORE FASCINATING KOWLOON

GET FESTIVE! Enjoy a fabulous Hong Kong Christmas

WELCOME

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歡迎

ようこそ

환영합니다

BIENVENIDA

SELAMAT DATANG

BIENVENUE

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where HONG KONG 12.2015 ®

THE GUIDE Dear Readers

06 HOT DATES

It is with regret that we have to inform readers that this is the last issue of Where Hong Kong to be published by HK Magazine Media Group. We sincerely hope that Where Hong Kong has been a useful monthly resource for locals and visitors and that readers have found it an enjoyable and rewarding experience. It has always been our intention to provide a valuable service, offering insights and recommendations, while at the same time helping to promote the city’s abundant benefits and attractions.

Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

18 ESSENTIALS Quintessential Hong Kong experiences

22 ART + CULTURE Top galleries and exhibitions

26 DINING Your A-Z of the best eats in town

Once again, on behalf of Where Hong Kong, we greatly appreciate the support and belief shown in our team. Thank you for reading and goodbye.

32 DRINKS

The Where Hong Kong Team

34 SHOPS + SERVICES

Our favorite places to sip cocktails

From mega malls to local designers

44 NAVIGATE

Fast facts and essential info

48 WALKING TOUR Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 GET INSPIRED Ideas for your itinerary

FEATURES

ON THE COVER

12 CHRISTMAS CRACKERS The best and brightest Xmas events going on around town

26 K-POPS

Jump on the latest trend for all things Korean at these buzzy restaurants

44 JOIN THE CIRCUS! The AIA Great European Carnival kicks off on December 17, offering non-stop family entertainment

Happy WinterFest, Winter Solstice Festival and Christmas! Whatever you call this time of year, make no mistake—Hong Kong knows how to put on a decent festive party. Turn to our cover story on p.12 for a round-up of all the best Christmas activities going on in town over the holidays.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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MAGA Z INE

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK MAGAZINE MEDIA GROUP HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Luisa Tam MANAGING EDITOR Daniel Creffield SENIOR EDITOR Adam White STAFF WRITERS Evelyn Lok, Isabelle Hon CONTRIBUTORS Kate Lok, Kadijah Watkins

HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR OF SALES Gary Wong SENIOR SALES MANAGER Joyce Wu SENIOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Kent Ma ACCOUNT MANAGER Fiona Lin ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES Bonita Yung, Celia Wong MARKETING MANAGER Tiffany Yew MARKETING EXECUTIVE Ricardo Ng ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Yan Man

HK | PRODUCTION SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kay Leung

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | EXECUTIVE

PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR Geoff Kohl GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

MVP | NATIONAL SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately

CMY

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV

MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

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HONG KONG

Morning Post Centre, 22 Dai Fat St., Tai Po Industrial Estate, New Territories, Hong Kong Phone: 2680-8888 Fax: 2660-5378 Editorial enquiry: hk@hkmagmedia.com Sales enquiry: 2565 2222 or advertising@hkmagmedia.com Marketing enquiry: marketing@hkmagmedia.com Circulation enquiry: circulationadmin@scmp.com Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. *The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/ or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.*

W H E R E HONG KONG I DECEMBER 2015

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HOT DATES HONG KONG By Evelyn Lok

DEC 21 ONWARDS Thrill of the Ride Adrenaline junkies can look forward to Tung Wah Charity Carnival this December, which is setting down more than 40 exhilarating features—from hair-raising thrill rides to fairground games—at the 5.5-hectare former Kai Tak Airport runway space. In celebration of the 145th anniversary of Hong Kong’s oldest charity, Tung Wah Group of Hospitals, the carnival will donate 10 percent of ticket sales to the organization’s services benefitting children, youth and low income families. Ticket price includes access to all rides and games. Dec 21-Jan 3, open daily 11am-11pm; Jan 4-Mar 28, open Mon-Thu 3-11pm, Fri-Sat and public holidays 11am-11pm, closed Sundays. Former Kai Tak Runway (near Kai Tak Cruise Terminal), Shing Fung Road, East Kowloon. $145-180 from twcarnival.hk.

DEC 4 ONWARDS

Udderly Fun

Straight from London’s Southbank and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe comes the first Udderbelly Festival Hong Kong, a crazy cool two-month feast of leading international arts and stage acts. Taking place inside Violet, a 17-meter-tall upside-down purple cow tent, there’ll be over 200 music, dance, circus, comedy, cabaret and family shows, and even a sing-along cinema. Dec 4-Feb 14. Central Harbour Front Event Space, 9 Lung Wo Rd., Central. See udderbelly.asia for the full program and tickets.

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HOT DATES

Y Y

DEC 18-20

THROUGH MAY

It’s a Bird! It’s A Plane! If you look up across the city’s rooftops this month, you’ll find lone human sculptures standing precariously close to the edges of buildings—the work of British artist Antony Gormley in his longstanding series “Event Horizon” which can be found in 31 locations around Central and Western districts, including the tops of St George’s Building and City Hall, and at ground level at LKF Plaza. As the largest public art project ever installed in the SAR, the project aims to make art accessible to the public, and examine the relationship between humans and their environments. Maybe it’ll even get Hongkongers to stop looking down at their phones... Until May 18, 2016. Various locations.

Get Inked A brand new fair joining Hong Kong’s art repertoire is here. Dedicated to modern and contemporary ink arts, Ink Asia brings over 40 exhibiting galleries from Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan and more to the SAR. While presenting a crucial facet of eastern art, the event also aims to introduce the aspect of appreciating, collecting and researching ink art to the public. Dec 18-19, 11am-8pm; Dec 20, 11am-6pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. $50 admits two adults; free for kids below 12 accompanied by an adult. For more information check inkasia.com.hk.

UNTIL DEC 27

Take it to the Streets Get your fix of trendy eats by local vendors at the Tong Chong Street Market. Held every Sunday, the open air food market features 40 stalls selling organic produce, meat, baked goods and sweets as well as delicious menus prepared by some of the most talked about restaurants and cafés around town. “Event Horizon” presented in Hong Kong by the British Council, 2015. Photography by Oak Taylor-Smith

Every Sunday, 11am-5pm. tongchongstreetmarket.com. D E C E M B E R 2 015 I WHER E H O N G K O N G 7

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SUITS AND THE

CITY

Hong Kong’s tailor of choice revealed by Rick Gangwani

ong Kong has a reputation of being a city that has something for everyone. Indeed, with money in your pocket there’s no better place on earth to go shopping. Given a free choice, many would go for electronics or a designer handbag, but if you ask any visiting politician or business leader to pick just one product, then they’re sure to go for a custom-made suit. The reason is obvious. Simply put: as far as bespoke clothing goes, there’s really no better place. As every well-heeled traveler knows, Hong Kong is the world’s tailoring capital, and many of the elite buy their threads here. Former US President Bill Clinton and tennis icon Venus Williams are among the endless list of celebrity names to have had a suit specially made. But given the fact that there are more than 250 fitters in town touting for your business it’s really important to differentiate between the true master craftsman and a backstreet imitator. At one time, spotting the difference was an art form in itself, but no longer. Now you

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need to look no further than La Elite Fashions, which has been widely regarded as Hong Kong’s leading custom clothier. Started in 1983 as a single-fitter outlet, the company today is practically an institution, with more than 100,000 regular clients – including CEOs, heads of state and professional athletes. The Tourism Board-approved tailor has built up its unrivalled reputation by offering high quality but surprisingly affordable men’s and women’s apparel, including suits, shirts, slacks, jackets and dresses, as well as one-off special items. Owner Danny Hussain admits the rise to the top has by no means been easy. “It’s only through hard work and providing our customers with a quality service that we’ve managed to build our brand into what it is today,” he insists. One area where La Elite particularly scores is in value-added services, such as providing its clients with complimentary transportation from their hotels for fittings, after which finished clothing can be picked up or delivered free of charge within 24 hours. The company also guarantees its work,

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Sponsored Feature

and in most cases will offer free alterations for up to ten years after purchase. It will also keep your measurements on file, so you can easily reorder garments and have them delivered to you, wherever in the world you are. General suit prices at La Elite start as low as HK$1,600, while the most popular selections come from the store’s Ermengildo Zegna line. Thanks to a special relationship with the supplier, La Elite can offer some of the lowest prices for the material, with the average suit likely to set you back just $3,880 – a steal, when you consider that Zegna’s off-the-rack varieties usually retail for no less than $15,000. But it’s definitely worth personally checking out all the fabrics available – with around 10,000 imported varieties, including from high-end labels such as Dormeuil and Loro Piana, you’re bound to find something perfect for you. One thing is for sure – while Hong Kong can be a shopper’s paradise, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better bargain than a beautiful and affordable bespoke suit.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance MTR EXIT: N5) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com 九龍尖沙咀麼地道1E地下 (港鐵N5出口,金域假日酒店麼地道入口對面)

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A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.

Spotlight on: North District Many residents of the North District, which sits right up on the border with mainland China in the New Territories, can trace their origins back to China, when families moved south to escape war and unrest. These clans set up villages—some surrounded by walls— and lived off the land. The area is still mostly rural, populated by farmers who pursue their ancient traditions and follow a more modest way of life.

Lau Shui Heung

Beyond the Walls In its earliest days, Hong Kong was a series of small communities subsisting on the land and living inside walled villages, and if you travel up into the New Territories you’ll discover traditional life still exists behind these walls. In fact, you don’t need to move too far away from the heart of downtown Hong Kong to discover a region that will make you feel you’ve ventured back in time to this era, where you’ll still find ancient traditions and a more simple way of life.

Village Life The Tang clan first settled in Kam Tin in the early 14th century, and Lo Wai was the first of the five wai—or walled villages—they built. It’s enclosed on all four sides by brick walls, with a gateway and entrance tower, which protect the central ancestral hall and adjacent dwellings. Much of the original village walls and internal layout still exist here: if you follow the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail you can see the protected entranceway and walls, but much is closed to the public to protect the villagers’ privacy.

Community Spirit An ancestral hall is the focal point for any wai villager: it’s a study hall for children, as well as a place for worshipping ancestors, for social gatherings, and for discussing important village issues. Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in Sheung Shui Wai is an elaborate example built in 1751 by the prosperous Liu clan, who initially settled from Fujian in the Ming Dynasty. Built in the typical three-hall, two-courtyard style, the decoration of the main building is opulent—you’ll be able to see plaster moldings, intricate wood carvings and significant murals.

Organic Growth Instead of merely surviving off the land to feed themselves, entrepreneurial villagers have branched out to sell their produce—producing a trend across Hong Kong for locally grown, locally sourced ingredients. Po Sang Yuen Bee Farm in Fanling does a great job of protecting the environment in its enterprise, while the trendy IPC Foodlab is a restaurant that advocates eating local farm produce and practices what it preaches. On the fusion menu you’ll find all-organic vegetables picked from its farm in Fanling, with descriptions and the medicinal properties each ingredient can provide. For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

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Fanling Wai

Living Heritage

Soul Food

To learn more about ancient village life in Hong Kong, visit Fanling Wai, one of the area’s best preserved walled villages. It was thought to have been built by the Pang clan between the 12th and 13th centuries, and inside you’ll see fine examples of Ming and Tsing dynasty architecture through its temples, ancestral halls, school, watchtowers and cannons. Also worth a stop is Tsung Pak Long, a Hakka walled village established in the 19th century by five different clans. The village of Ma Shi Po in Fanling is a prime example of urban encroachment onto farmland.

To sample locally farmed food, make a stop at the Wun Chuen Vegetarian Centre. At the entrance to the 70-year-old Taoist Wun Chuen Sin Koon temple, surrounded by gardens, lotus ponds and bridges, the restaurant offers healthy and delicious dishes made to resemble their meaty counterparts. For a little bit of heritage with your dinner, also check out Kwan Kee Beef Balls & Pork Knuckles—a Guangdong establishment that’s one of Fanling’s oldest and most popular food joints.

Natural Beauty Much of the North District is still made up of farmland and beautiful natural resources. The eight majestic peaks of Pat Sin Leng Country Park, known as the “eight fairies”, dominate the territory’s skyline and are surrounded by emerald lakes, with many walking trails which start and end at the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir, taking in pavilions, a camp site and barbeque and picnic spots. The protected wetland of Long Valley is also a birdwatchers’ paradise, being home to more than 200 different species of birds, many rare.

Time for Tea If you’re interested in traditional Chinese art forms, why not try Wing Chun, a scientific form of Chinese martial art that dates back to the late 1800s. Wan Kam Leung Practical Wing Chun is a school teaching a modern-day version. Or if you’re seeking a more peaceful inroad to traditional Chinese culture, Ming Cha Teahouse holds interactive tea tasting workshops that will educate you on five different types of tea. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for North District.

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Spotlight on: Sha Tin In the easterly New Territories, Sha Tin has grown from a huge area of farm land popular with migrating groups from mainland China into a new town that boasts one of the city’s largest populations. If you visit the district today you’ll be able to spot a real cultural mix: from 19th century walled villages and Chinese traditional temples to modern, spacious parks.

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Lung Wah Hotel

Enduring Culture Wherever you look in Hong Kong you will see how immigrants from around the world have impacted on the city’s culture; from its culinary tastes to its artistic forms and traditional festivals. There are thousands of experiences that will take you back centuries: whether it’s in the traditional Chinese festivals, cultural arts, or family-run restaurants.

Fire dragon dance

A night at the Opera Hong Kong is underpinned by the Cantonese culture evident in the city’s food, music and festivals. For an artistic expression of this you only need to watch Cantonese opera: an elaborate art form combining singing, acting, martial arts, acrobatics and incredible costumes. Ko Shan Theatre is one of the last remaining venues to showcase this art. Operas are held here on an almost daily basis, some of which are free.

Taste the Culture Another notable cultural influence on Hong Kong comes from the city’s Chiu Chow and Hakka descendants. The Chiu Chow people’s movement south from the Chaozhou region in eastern Guangdong can be traced back thousands of years, and you can also experience the culinary side of their culture at Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow restaurant. For a taste of the Hakka population’s offerings, head to one of the branches of the popular Chuen Cheung Kui chain. For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

with Beef

est

Built on History Some of the earliest immigrants to Sha Tin from the mainland were the Hakka people, who built walled villages upon their arrival to protect them from rival clans. You can still see some of these villages remaining: Tsang Tai Uk was built in the 19th century by the Hakka Tsang clan and is one of the biggest structures still standing, while the “Old House” is a remnant of the historical Wong Uk Village, a trading station for merchants built in the 1800s.

Culinary Heritage Sha Tin is renowned for its roast pigeon, in part thanks to the area’s iconic restaurant, the Lung Wah Hotel. Built in the 1930s, it was transformed into a hotel in 1951 and has attracted celebrities such as Bruce Lee over the years, mainly to feast on the house specialty, pigeon. For more of a taste of old Hong Kong dishes, seek out Chan Kun Kee: this dai pai dong on a public housing estate in Sha Tin is a hub

for the community’s residents and serves up creative, homely Guangdong cuisine.

Natural Resources Besides the traditional Chinese cultural elements on offer, Sha Tin has lots of beautiful natural resources for recreation. Add the Shing Mun River to your itinerary—a wide waterway that gives incredible night views of the district. It’s also where you’ll find Hongkongers out cycling and running, plus the annual Dragon Boat Festival takes place here too. Next door sits Sha Tin Park, a garden with traditionally styled Chinese archways, gardens and fish ponds. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Sha Tin.

Get insights and tips on your tablet from Hong Kong Insider’s Guide

Old House, Wong Uk Village

ict.

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CHRISTMAS CRACKERS Sant-astic! Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gathered some of the best 2015 Christmas happenings in town to keep you busy (and merry) all December long. By Kate Lok

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Ocean Park

Cityplaza: Rudolph in the Snow This Christmas, Hong Kong Island’s largest shopping mall will be decorated to tell the story of Rudolph, the world’s favorite reindeer. To celebrate the occasion Cityplaza Ice Palace is putting up a 20-foot-tall Christmas tree in the middle of its ice rink, and to make the experience extra festive, will transform the rink into a winter wonderland, with winter snow flurries every 30 minutes. Dec 1-Jan 3. Cityplaza, 18 Tai Koo Shing Rd. Free.

Pacific Place: Christmas Wonder with The Little Prince All the magic and sparkle of the holiday season is coming to one of Hong Kong’s luxury shopping malls. Pacific Place invites shoppers to experience a new interpretation of The Little Prince, brought to life across the mall with festive art, performances and events. The holiday merriment at Pacific Place runs until the New Year, making it a must-visit destination for authentic Christmas spirit with a stylish modern twist. Through Jan 1. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. Free.

Hong Kong Ballet: The Nutcracker It wouldn’t be Christmas without the classic ballet The Nutcracker. Come and celebrate the holidays with one of the world’s most well-loved Christmas tales. Join this magical adventure. to experience the graceful choreography, the classic music and the stunning backdrop when this Tchaikovsky favorite returns to the city. December 18-27, $180-$680, $1,000 for VIP tickets. Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.

Ocean Park’s Christmas Sensation This year, Ocean Park will be celebrating its annual winter highlight, Christmas Sensation, with festive shows, good food and cute mascots. Get ready to be wowed by a series of Christmas-themed ice skating shows and stunning aerial and acrobatic acts. Delicious festive menus and specials at the Park’s Tuxedos Restaurant and Neptune’s Restaurant will offer a variety of seasonal dishes and for added family fun, Ocean Park is introducing its new mascot, Fluffi, to celebrate the joyous season with its guests. Dec 12-Jan 3. Ocean Park, Aberdeen. Admission $345, children $173.

Discovery Bay Christmas Market by Handmade Hong Kong Handmade Hong Kong has been a keen supporter of local crafts since 2009. This year, they’re bringing a Christmas market to Discovery Bay, featuring local and independent vendors selling one-of-a-kind pieces. You’ll find things like bags, jewelry, paper crafts, ornaments and more. Dec 13, 11am-6pm. Discovery Bay Main Plaza, Discovery Bay, Lantau Island.

Hong Kong Mega ShowCase The Hong Kong Mega ShowCase is an indoor carnival that takes place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre every year combining several major expos and themed trade shows. There will be more than 1,000 booths with vendors from all over the world showcasing goods from electronics, home décor and food items with great deals on offer. Get ready to shop at this extravaganza! Dec 24-27; Food Festival until Dec 28. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. Admission $20.

Landmark The Landmark mall celebrates the spirit of sharing in its Christmas campaign “Landmark Makes Wishes Come True This Christmas”. With an interactive setting, a “Wishing Machine” is the focal point of this year’s Christmas installation. Every 30 minutes it will burst into life with an illuminated light show and seasonal music. Visitors can make a wish by filling in a wish token. For every token received, Landmark will make a $20 donation to Make-A-Wish Hong Kong. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central. Free.

Festival Walk: Feathery Galaxy at Festival Walk Festival Walk is offering shoppers a one-of-akind Christmas experience, with magnificent decorations that transform the mall into a white Christmas. Head to the mall for Hong Kong’s tallest indoor Christmas tree, a 70-foot feathery creation topped with a white dove. In the middle of the mall is a Christmas Ice Stage, where shoppers can also admire a giant unicorn and a crystal clear Pegasus piano. Festival Walk is also bringing shoppers an exciting new theatrical experience by hosting an exclusive Feathery Fantasia Show, including singing, crystal ball juggling, snow globe dancing and more. Nov 25-Dec 25. Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Ave., Kowloon Tong. Free.

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Tong Chong Street Market Although the Island East Market has moved to D2 this year, another market is here to fill the Tong Chong Street space. Similar to the Island East Market, the Tong Chong Street Market features 40 stalls selling all kinds of food including meat, organic fruits and vegetables, confectionary, bakery and cocktails, all created by homegrown restaurants and cafes. Every Sunday from now until Dec 27. Tong Chong St., Taikoo Place, Quarry Bay. Free.

The AIA Great European Carnival This Christmas, hit Central Harbourfront for some family-approved carnival fun! The AIA Great European Carnival is back in town after attracting more than 830,000 visitors last year. The 67-day carnival features returning favorite rides in addition to new ones from around Europe. There will be new and revitalized games, thousands of toys to be won and much more. The Udderbelly Festival also debuts, with an entertainment space in the form of an upside-down purple cow named “Violet”. Dec 17- Feb 21. New Central Harbourfront, Central. Tickets $125 (includes 10 tokens), kids $90 (includes 7 tokens).

Elements: Love In Time for Christmas

Latin Christmas Bazaar— Mercadillo Navideño

This Christmas, Elements mall is inviting everyone to experience a magical world through a showcase of more than 100 Kouklitas Christmas dolls, created by world-renowned couture fashion doll designer, Andrew Yang. Other than that, a dazzling opera-inspired theatrical setting surrounds the mall. A “Love in Time for Christmas” light show will be put on every hour. Nov 12-Dec 31. 1/F, Elements Metal and Water Zones, 1 Austin Rd. West, Tsim Sha Tsui. Free.

Bored of the usual westernized Santa Claus and candy cane-filled Christmas? Opt for a change and see how Spanish-speaking countries celebrate the yuletide season, right here in Hong Kong! A Latin Christmas Bazaar will be held at The Culture Club in Central, featuring piñatas, scarves and toys, wall hangings and totes from Guatemala, calendars from Spain and Colombian jewelry. And don’t forget to grab a nice cup of sangria. Dec 2, 4pm-11pm. Culture Club, 15 Elgin St., Soho, Central. Free.

Hong Kong WinterFest A highlight of this year’s Hong Kong Tourism Board WinterFest is the “Sparkling Bulgari Roman Holiday”, co-organized with Italian luxury brand Bulgari. The promotion will infuse Statue Square in Central with a romantic “Roman” ambience through a light art installation, glittering Christmas trees, a candy house, wishing tree and photo booth. Visitors can enjoy hot cocoa and traditional Italian confectionery while sharing photos and holiday greetings. All the proceeds from the promotion will be donated to the charity Save the Children. Dec 4-Jan 1. Statue Square, Central. Free.

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Hullett House’s 4th Annual Christmas Market Hong Kong’s iconic heritage hotel, Hullett House, is bringing its Christmas Market to town for the fourth time. This year it features gourmet food and beverages, holiday decorations, handmade accessories, fine fashion apparel and festive live entertainment. Expect to be surrounded by the warm aroma of mulled wine, eggnog and hot chocolate with marshmallows. Santa Claus will be reading stories, and there will be carolers and other live performances. Dec 11-13. 50 Pigeons Courtyard, Hullett House, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Hong Kong Disneyland Park: A Sparkling Christmas

Harbour City: Happily Ever After

Every year the home to the world’s favorite mouse salutes the merry season. Come along to Hong Kong Disneyland to meet some beloved characters all jollied-up in Christmas attire. Get your cameras ready as the entire park transforms into a wonderland of holiday cheer, shiny ornaments, dazzling lights, fluffy snowflakes, candy canes, wreaths and a glittering Sleeping Beauty castle at night. At the magnificent Christmas tree that greets you as you first come through Main Street, a “Frozen” themed tree lighting ceremony takes place every night. Don’t forget the parties and the parades, which are all part of the celebrations to get everybody into the holiday spirit. Nov 16-Jan 2. Hong Kong Disneyland Resort, Lantau Island. General Admission: $539, children $385.

Harbour City’s Christmas decorations never fail to impress. This year, as well as its usual dazzling ornaments, it is partnering with Hong Kong Disneyland and will transform the Ocean Terminal forecourt into a Christmas Avenue “Happily Ever After,” inspired by Disney Fairytales. There will be a Christmas Magical Theatre with lots of photo taking and selfie spots. The mall has also invited Disney characters to celebrate the festive season, including Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Elsa and Anna, and many more. Nov 5-Jan 3, 10am-10pm. Ocean Terminal Forecourt, Harbour City, 3-37 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Free.

The Hong Kong Pulse 3D Light Show The Hong Kong Pulse 3D Light Show will be staged again, showcasing a fairytale Christmas to spread the cheerful atmosphere. The Hong Kong Cultural Centre and Clock Tower will become a storybook, with flipping pages revealing magical surprises, such as Christmas elves. The Tsim Sha Tsui area will also be decorated with signature Christmas lights. 8:20pm, 8:45pm, 9:15pm and 9:45pm nightly (about 8 minutes per session), Dec 9-28, Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. Free.

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Spotlight on: Southern District When you first arrive on Hong Kong Island, chances are you’ll be immediately surrounded by the city’s gleaming skyscrapers, luxury malls and bustling markets. But just minutes away from this urban jungle, in Hong Kong’s beautiful Southern District, lie kilometer upon kilometer of steep mountain trails, country parks and beaches that can provide you with a tranquil escape for a day or two—if you ever want to leave, that is.

Tai Tam

Tranquil Escapes For a region famed for its high-rises, Hong Kong surprises visitors with its untold natural beauty. If you venture beyond the entertainment hub of downtown, you’ll discover that almost three quarters of Hong Kong is made up of countryside— rugged mountains, bijou islands and kilometer upon kilometer of indented coastline.

Beachin’ Around You don’t need to leave Hong Kong Island to find idyllic beach retreats and Shek O Beach is one of the best picks for a fun day trip. Meaning “rocky bay”, Shek O peninsula juts out into the South China Sea, providing a perfectly sheltered enclave and ample scenery for shutterbugs. Rent yourself a barbecue on the beach, head to one of the shack restaurants for a skewer or two, or even grab a quick Thai bite on the shorefront.

Coast Along Venture further off the beaten track to the northerly Golden Beach on the Gold Coast. As one of the longest beaches in Hong Kong, the golden stretch of sand glistens as far as the eye can see. A boardwalk lined with tropical trees runs the length of the shore and volleyball players are frequently leaping around, California-style. It’s also right by the seafront arcade, the Gold Coast Piazza.

Rock the Boat For a whole-day adventure, travel further into the northeasterly New Territories to Sai Kung, a volcanic region of Hong Kong. Here you’ll find the gorgeous Hap Mun Wan (Half Moon Bay), a real Hong Kong treasure on Sharp Island. This long, narrow isle is two kilometers off the coast and accessible only by sampan. The waters are warm and crystal clear, resembling a tropical Asian destination. For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

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Views over Tai Tam Bay from Dragon’s Back

Hit the Trail The best way to really experience the Southern District’s rural tranquility is on your own two feet: the south side of Hong Kong Island is devoted to several country parks and reservoirs for easy rambling routes or more adventurous trails. Forming part of stage 8 of the Wilson Trail, the Dragon’s Back offers spectacular views over the picturesque Tai Tam Bay on one side and the South China Sea on the other, while Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir is a turquoise gem of water in Tai Tam Country Park.

Beachside eats Restaurants are all making the most of the incredible seaside atmosphere on their doorstep. At Pinot Duck in Stanley, duck in all its guises is the name of the game, served with an ample wine list of fine pinot. The food is a contemporary take on the classic Asian favorite so look out for crispy duck wings in Sichuan pepper, Jasmine tea-smoked duck breast and crispy duck leg in sweet soy sauce. For classic Cantonese staples with an edgy spin, check out Meen & Rice in Repulse Bay, while at Shek O Chinese and Thailand Seafood Restaurant is always busy.

The Repulse Bay Visual Art Museum

On the Waterfront In Stanley the covered street market dominates the shopping scene, but there are also small boutiques opening up. As well as shops that have been around for decades, there are lots of new stores and restaurants opening up on the waterfront. Around the coast in Repulse Bay, The Pulse is a seaside mall new to the scene, with many independent and well-known brands. The Repulse Bay Visual Art Museum is worth a stop if you have the kids (or even big kids!) in tow: it’s home to Hong Kong’s largest 3D museum and contains over 80 3D art pieces. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Southern District.

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View over Tuen Mun

Natural Heritage

Spotlight on: Tuen Mun

Hong Kong may be a buzzing urban metropolis, but its little-known secret is that some 40 percent of the territory is formed of country parks and nature reserves. Step outside of downtown and you’ll discover steeple-top mountain chains, remote hiking trails, rugged coastlines and wild beaches. Plus with more marine diversity than the Caribbean and one-third of the total bird species in China, you’ll soon want to spend all your precious time outdoors.

Situated at the mouth of the Tuen Mun River in Hong Kong’s westerly New Territories, the district of Tuen Mun owes its very early settlements to the abundant natural resources. Small villages and eventually a market town built up around the waterfront, which once fed the livelihood of the Tanka (boat dwelling) fishermen. Today, although much of the neighborhood is now residential, there’s a whole host of natural beauty that’s just waiting to be explored. To explore Tuen Mun’s ancient natural heritage you can hike to the Castle Peak Basin, boasting jaw-dropping views down over the territory.

Rocky Beginnings

Tuen Mun is also home to Tai Lam Country Park, Hong Kong’s second largest, with Tai Lam Chung Reservoir at its heart. Further west lies the village of Lung Kwu Tan, which with its unimpeded views out to sea is a popular spot for searching out the Chinese white dolphin, actually a pink humpback dolphin that cruises the South China coastline. Take a quick walk up to Chinese White Dolphin Lookout with a pair of binoculars and you may be in luck!

The most prominent protected nature reserve is the Hong Kong Global Geopark of China, in northeasterly Sai Kung. One of the prettiest of these areas is Yan Chau Tong Marine Park: a happy result of violent volcanic eruptions some 180 million years ago. With little erosion, it’s worth a visit to explore the rocky headlands and cliffs surrounded by picturesque bays and turquoise waters.

Under the Sea To discover what lies beneath Hong Kong’s calm waters, escape to Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park (Hoi Ha literally translates to “under the sea”), a sheltered bay that’s famous for its coral collection. You might be able to spot more than 60 species of hard coral just from a clear spot on the surface, or dive down further to happen upon colorful soft coral and more than 120 species of fish.

Feeling Reserved Keep your feet on dry land at the renowned Hong Kong Wetland Park, some 60 hectares of wetland reserve with specially designed habitats for its water-bird species. The large visitor center holds regular themed exhibitions, plus you can meet the salt water crocodile “Pui Pui.” Mai Po Nature Reserve is another must-visit wetlands that supports thousands of birds during migratory season. For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

Go Dolphin Spotting

Treason and Plot For an intriguing taste of history, Hung Lau, an early 20th century Grade I historic building set in Chung Shan Park is where legend has it that Chinese revolutionary Dr. Sun Yat-sen plotted his uprising, and you’ll find a plaque commemorating his theories that’s believed to have been handwritten by the man himself. Another building of historical significance is Tsing Shan Monastery, one of the three oldest

temples in Hong Kong, with records that date back to 1464. It comprises three groups of buildings, including a ceremonial arch, gatehouse, prayer halls and dormitories.

Food and Flea Markets With such strong ties to the land and sea, there’s ample fresh local produce to be had in Tuen Mun. Freshly farmed produce can be found in the rural community of Lam Tei, at the aptly named Farmer Restaurant, where you’ll find true Cantonese countryside fare. Alternatively, opt for some flavorsome meat dishes at Lam Tei’s renowned Red Season Aroma Restaurant. Meanwhile, Lok On Pai Siu Lam Flea Market has more than 100 community stalls selling everything from pot plants, dolls, goldfish, handbags and sunglasses. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Tuen Mun.

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Chinese White Dolphin Lookout

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ESSENTIALS | The Guide

A NEWBIE’S GUIDE TO HK

Where to go and what to buy to sum up your awesome Hong Kong experience By Kate Lok

Chinese Tea Ware Hong Kong people love their tea, so why not pick up your own set of Chinese tea ware as a souvenir? Fook Ming Tong is a premium brand dedicated to the art of drinking tea. This year they have introduced a new minimalistic, intricate, delicate and hand-painted collection featuring teacups with their own internal tea strainer. Go to: Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop, Shop 3006, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall, Central, Hong Kong, 2295-0368.

EXPERIENCE THIS Lin Fa Kung Temple (Lotus Palace Temple) Look beyond the shops and restaurants flourishing on the streets of Tai Hang and you’ll find this secluded temple nestling in a corner of the old neighborhood. Built in 1846, Lin Fa Kung is one of the oldest working temples in Hong Kong. It serves as a place of worship for the Guanyin bodhisattva—its statue is housed in a lotus-shaped house symbolizing peace and prosperity. The unique architecture of the temple has earned it recognition as a Grade 1 historic building. Go to: Lin Fa Kung St. West, Tai Hang.

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ESSENTIALS

Foot Massage Relieve your feet after a hard day’s sightseeing by heading to one of many foot massage parlors across town. Go to: Ten Feet Tall, 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010.

Preserved Fruits Hong Kong’s traditional preserved fruits will unleash a whole gamut of flavors on your palate. From the sourness of the dried plums to the weird but wonderful liquoriceflavoured lemons, the treats serve as great snacks and alternative gifts. Go to: Yiu Fung Store, various locations including G/F, 2 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-2528.

Calligraphy Brushes Want to write Chinese characters like a pro? All you need are a set of Chinese calligraphy brushes, some xuan paper, black ink and a stone ink slab. Oh, and a few Chinese characters under your belt wouldn’t hurt. Go to: Man Luen Choon, 2/F, Harvest Building, 29-35 Wing Kut St., Central, 2544-6965.

Shanghai Tang Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The flagship store is definitely worth a visit. Go to: 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

Pastries with a Local Twist Tired of buying fridge magnets? Opt for some tasty local treats to bring home with you instead. Choose among a choice of sweet pastry palmiers, crispy egg rolls and buttery cashew nut cookies. Go to: The Royal Garden Hong Kong, 69 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733 2045.

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the guide Radiant Relaxation This December Melo Spa at the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin is offering its new Luminous Care treatment. For 90 minutes, enjoy two treatments designed to ease mind and body: Crystal Silky Body Polish uses mineral crystals to remove impurities and dead skin cells, while Diamond Rejuvenating body massage adds hydration and improves skin texture and firmness. Melo Luminous Care is $1,199. Guests can also enjoy a 30-minute milk bath and 30-minute mini massage at $599, plus 20 percent off an AINHOA Luxury Diamond Facial. 5/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-7684.

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ART+CULTURE | The Guide

Art to Art Evelyn Lok discovers three exhibitions in December worth catching

Textile Past Part of a mammoth heritage conservation project launched by Nan Fung Group, a sixmonth pre-opening program for the non-profit art space The Mills Gallery—which will provide a focus for Hong Kong’s textile arts—has kickstarted this fall. The first exhibition in the program features “Tracing Some Places” by veteran artist Leung Chi-wo, presenting mixedmedia installations depicting the importance of Hong Kong’s textile industry. The heavily researched project includes prints, photographs, videos and sculptures from 1996 onwards. Dec 5-Jan 9. The Mills Gallery Pop-Up Space (The Annex), 2/F, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan. Leung Chi-wo, “Frater” (2015): sewing machine, black and white negative film, 1967 Hong Kong 50-cent coins, low speed-motor and steel frame

Seeing is Disbelieving Alisan Fine Arts is hosting the gallery’s first photography exhibition “Un/natural”, a joint show featuring works by Ming Thein and Stephen King. The curated selection of works examines the tension and similarity between natural and unnatural elements. In seeking to demarcate the line between nature and what we create from nature, the photographers’ works blur these distinctions and signs. Both sets of images have simultaneous elements of harmony and dissonance: in King’s case, it’s the asymmetry that contrasts the calming tones. In Ming Thein’s images, it’s the intensity of color that both creates and dominates the overall structure of the image. Dec 5-Jan 9. Alisan Fine Arts, 2305 Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091.

DeLorean Dabbling For fans of the 80s sci-fi adventure film, “Back to the Future” day (Oct 21, 2015) may have come and gone, but The Cat Street Gallery’s not done celebrating the wonder of time travel. Inspired by the thought-provoking themes of the film, this group show featuring 18 local artists, “Back to the Future,” investigates Hong Kong’s place in history, its present state as a burgeoning epicenter of art in Asia-Pacific, and its future cultural development, social and civil change. River Delta 6 by Stephen King

Dec 3-Jan 16; Jan 21-Feb 20. The Cat Street Gallery, 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006.

You’ll find some of the best art and antiques galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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ART+CULTURE

Blindspot Gallery

ART GALLERIES 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY— Established in 2001, the gallery focuses on established and emerging artists from around the world. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, it not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists. Featured artists include Wang Keping, Simon Birch and Julian Schnabel. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065. 1A SPACE — Founded in 1998, 1a Space—located in a former cattle shed—is one of the city’s leading contemporary visual art organizations. An independent, non-profit venture established by a group of local artists, it encourages interaction between the art community and the public and often features works by emerging young artists freshly graduated from local universities. Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087.

3812 CONTEMPORARY ART PROJECTS — This Asian Art gallery was founded in 2010 under interesting circumstances: Its name 3812 refers to the 3,812 meters above sea level from which the founders skied down the Vallee Blanche slopes of Chamonix. The ski path was likened to the swift brushstrokes of an artist. With more than 7,000 square feet of space, it houses regular exhibitions by Chinese contemporary artists, from calligrapher/painter Chen Guangwu to east/west-influenced Chloe Ho. 10/F, 12 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2153-3812. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch Angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot’s private collection. Shop C, LG/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6882.

ALISAN FINE ARTS — established in the 1980s, Alisan Fine Arts was one of the first professionally run galleries in Hong Kong. A pioneer in the field of contemporary Chinese art and new ink art, the gallery focuses on promoting emerging Chinese artists from the mainland as well as established Hong Kong artists and Chinese diaspora living in Europe and the US. Under the leadership of Alice King, the gallery has organized over 100 exhibitions in Hong Kong and abroad during the past 30+ years. Alisan Fine Arts, 2305 Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091. ASIA SOCIETY GALLERY — Asia Society Hong Kong’s expansive headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former British storehouse for artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a treasure trove. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511. AXEL VERVOORDT GALLERY — Initially dedicated to representing artists working in the Zero and Gutai art movements of the 20th century, the Antwerp-based Axel Vervoordt Gallery opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2014. The gallery aims to further its artistic dialogue between the east and west, and has grown to work with a wider selection of contemporary artists who investigate themes of void, space and time. Unit D, 15/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2503-2220 / 2503-2331.

Asia Society Gallery

BLINDSPOT GALLERY — Blindspot Gallery relocated from its original Central location to this larger industrial warehouse in Aberdeen, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. The space hosts large-scale exhibitions, private viewings and special events. 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2517-6238 . D E C E M B E R 2 015 I WHERE H O N G K O N G 23

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ART+CULTURE | The Guide

F11 Photographic Museum

EDOUARD MALINGUE GALLERY — French art dealer Édouard Malingue’s gallery opened in 2010 with an exhibition of Picasso’s works. Flash forward five years, it has moved to a larger and brighter space on Des Voeux Road Central. EM mainly shows a wide range of international contemporary art, but also represents several Hong Kong-based artists such as Ko Sin Tung and João Vasco Paiva. 6/F, 33 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2810-0317. ERARTA GALLERY— Opened in November 2014, Erarta’s first Asian outpost is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts. Its massive two-story space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde is one of the oldest galleries in Hong Kong, established in 1974. It specializes in modern and contemporary works by Chinese artists. The gallery is also a champion of up-andcoming talent, known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. HANART TZ GALLERY — Hanart TZ celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2014 with a string of exhibitions by leading contemporary Chinese artists. As specialists in the genre, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. Room 401, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019. LEHMANN MAUPIN — With its original branch in New York, and a reputation for supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors in Hong Kong in March 2013. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Unit 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025.

PLATFORM CHINA— This gallery’s been a Beijing mainstay since 2005, building a strong reputation as an art institution that represents the forefront of Chinese contemporary art. Opening up its first outpost in 2012 in Hong Kong, they aim to promote Chinese artists and also develop a platform for thought-provoking discussions and cultural exchange. Unit 601, 6/F, Chai Wan Industrial Building Phase 1, 60 Wing Tai Rd., Chai Wan.

MUSEUMS F11 PHOTOGRAPHIC MUSEUM — This museum, housed in a three-story restored Art Deco building, is dedicated purely to the art of photography. The museum aims to show pivotal works from international and regional greats and up-and-coming photographers. Check out its vintage Leica camera exhibit and library on the third floor. Appointments are essential, and visits include a free guided tour. 11 Yuk Sau St., Happy Valley, 6516-1122. FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory and former home of the commander-in-chief of the British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a classic Chinese setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2869-0690.

HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139.

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the west to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays, except public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042.

ANTIQUES ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeast Asia are found in the viewing galleries. There are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Shop A, G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. LAM & CO ANTIQUES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silverware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877.

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DINING | The Guide

CRAZY FOR K-TOWN Kimchi tacos, bulgogi pizzas and soju cocktails? Hong Kong is developing a serious appetite for all things Korean. By Leslie Yeh and Evelyn Lok

Jinjuu’s mini sliders

Sold on Soju

Jinjuu Say You Were Hungry?

If there’s one thing Koreans do better than grilled marinated meats, it’s rowdy drinking games. Get the best of both at K-Pocha, a watering hole in LKF outfitted with neon lights and an edgy industrial vibe. Become a pro at popular drinking games such as “007 Bang” and “Titanic” while loading up on Korean street snacks, including a seafood ddeokbokki with fresh shrimp, octopus and mussels smothered in a layer of melted cheese. Slightly spicy and unapologetically heavy on the waistline, this dish is a hearty stomach-liner between shots of soju or cups of K-Pocha’s signature house-brewed makgeolli rice wine.

Gearing up for its launch on December 7 at Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower is the first outpost of London’s Jinjuu, which serves up modern Korean from celeb chef Judy Joo. The street-style dishes, designed to be eaten while boozing at the same time (aka the whole idea of anju, the Korean eating and drinking MO), include the likes of carnitas fries, Korean tacos, sliders, mandoo dumplings and of course tongdak—Korean fried chicken. For those more serious about the eating portion of the experience, there are also larger mains to share such as lettuce meat wraps and bibimbap rice bowls.

7/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2770-0611.

UG/F, 32 D’Aguilar St., Central, 3755-4868.

Vacate Your Stomach

Sitting on the prime intersection between Wellington Street and Lyndhurst Terrace, fusion burrito joint TaKorea is frequented by office workers at lunch and does the job well and pretty cheaply, though you’ll have to tiptoe down a disconcertingly eerie flight of stairs to get there. Starting at $75, you can choose between a rice bowl, burrito or three tacos, along with your choice of protein—“K-pop” chicken, spicy pork, galbi beef or eggplant. It all comes with ample fresh greens and TaKorea’s own gochujangbased sauce.

Housed behind a shipping container facade and sporting a vowel-less name, uber-cool VCNCY serves up a reasonably priced range of fusion street foods—think spiral potato chips but paired with more indulgent dips such as black truffle, bourbon or black garlic aioli ($78). VCNCY’s twist on Korean fried chicken is marinated in a Southern-style buttermilk for extra tenderness and a bit of heat. For larger sharing plates, there are pork belly wraps and rice cakes topped with pork neck, gruyère and jalapeños. Don’t miss the perfect winter dessert: sweet potato crumble cooked with bacon bits and tangy ginger in a skillet.

B/F, 55 Wellington St., Central, 2362-1999.

B/F, 41 Staunton St., Central, 2608-1788.

Ta for the Tacos

K-Pocha

VCNCY

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DINING

Chef’s Whites

Kimchi Here, Kimchi Everywhere Operating as an unpretentious, semi-alfresco bar in Lan Kwai Fong, Hanjan is a gastropub that serves up comfort food such as nachos topped with kimchi and bulgogi, Korean fried chicken and the “Fist of Fury”—pork knuckle with 11 kinds of medicinal herbs. The fusion influences extend well into the drinks menu; don’t miss the Kimchi Fizz (kimchi-infused vodka with egg white and tabasco) and the Kanj (ginseng-infused gin, Angostura bitters and chicken soup).

Chef Paolo Morresi of Aqua is no stranger to truffles, given that he hails from the Italian town of Abruzzo, which is well known for the delicacy. This season, the chef is bringing over the best of the winter white truffle crop to the city. The menu sounds like a spectacular autumn feast, with dishes such as marinated egg yolk with butter, demi-sel truffle caviar and white truffle ($268), wild herb white truffle risotto with pecorino ($688) and grilled porcini mushrooms with ravioli and truffle ($698) offering a rich and buttery sampling of the famous fungus. Save room for dessert: Mulled wine-poached pear ($248) accompanied with cream of hazelnuts, white chocolate wasabi and—you guessed it—more shaved truffle. 29-30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288, aqua.com.hk.

G/F, 4-5 Wo On Lane, Central, 2409-6000.

Seoul Refreshing One of the newest kids to the block, Korean fast food Seoul Bros is perched on top of perhaps Hollywood Road’s most iconic corner, above French resto Le Grand Bouffe—coincidentally, co-owned by the same guys—and overlooking the rickety hillside dai pai dong Leaf Dessert. For comforting eats with unfussy surrounds, Seoul Bros’ dishes are the best blend of unassuming Korean ingredients (equating to lots of spice and cheese). Think cheesy kimchi fries, mixed rice bowls with scrambled eggs, melty Korean quesadillas and more. Finish it off with a banana soft ice cream for dessert. G/F, 66 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2793-5703.

208 DUOCENTO OTTO — Italian $$$ At the buzzing downstairs bar, perch and nibble on 208’s delicious pizza and snacks. Low, dark, wooden ceilings, steel pillars and marble table tops give 208 a trendy air while distinctive blue and white tiles add a cool edge. 208 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0208.

ABOVE & BEYOND — Chinese $$$ Go to this sky-high restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. One standout: the thick, bubbly congee, which contains swirls of creamy egg yolk in each spoonful. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3400-1318.

8 1/2 OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA — Italian $$$$$ Chef Umberto Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an a la carte menu is also available). Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859.

AMBER — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2132-0066.

ABERDEEN STREET SOCIAL — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300.

ATELIER VIVANDA— Western $$$ From thinly sliced smoked beef to the Black Angus and rack of veal mains, this culinary atelier makes true art out of food. Chef Akrame’s own brand of olive oil is also one of the must-try items. 9A Ship St., Wanchai, 2109-1768.

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DINING | The Guide HUTONG — Chinese $$$$ With Hutong’s dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in a northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342. LA PALOMA — Spanish $$$ La Paloma, meaning “pigeon” in Spanish—and a playful homage to Barcelona’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown) nightclub of the same name— opens its doors in Sai Ying Pun to serve the tasty bird and other scrumptious Spanish staples in a vibrant, colorful 3,400-square foot space. La Paloma is chef Willy Trullas Moreno and chef Alex Fargas’s second project in Hong Kong—the first being FoFo by El Wily in Central. The restaurant will feature an asador: a clay roaster that can handle suckling pigs, lamb and other hearty meats. 1/F, SoHo 189, 189 Queen’s Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2291-6161.

Fook Lam Moon

CELESTIAL COURT — Cantonese $$$$$ Don’t miss the tasty dim sum at this Cantonese staple at the Sheraton Hotel. 2/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 29 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-1111. CHINA TANG — Chinese $$$$ Following the success of Island Tang and Kowloon Tang, Sir David Tang continues with China Tang, offering top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2522-2148. CRAFTY COW — Fusion $$ Crafty Cow presents an update to the familiar concept of fusion dining, blending the trendiest ingredients together for an unusual take on classic dishes. 3 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2915-8988.

GONPACHI — Japanese $$$ The glorious Tokyo establishment that inspired one of the signature killing scenes in ‘Kill Bill’ has spawned a branch in Causeway Bay’s Lee Gardens. Keep in mind that Gonpachi is not a specialist restaurant. It serves everything: sushi, grilled goods, tempura, rice boxes and noodles. 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2787-3688. HO LEE FOOK — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860.

LIN HEUNG KUI — Dim sum $$ If you want an authentic Cantonese bite but don’t have the time or patience to queue up at Lin Heung Tea House, Lin Heung Kui is the place to be. 2-3/F, 46-50 Des Voeux Rd. West, Sheung Wan, 2156-9328. MAXIM’S PALACE CITY HALL — Dim sum $ If there is one restaurant that epitomizes dim sum culture in Hong Kong, this is it. Floor-toceiling windows overlook Victoria Harbour and the Star Ferry chugging along to Kowloon and back. Low Block, City Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central, 2526-9931. MR & MRS FOX— Western $$$ Your meal will never be boring again at this boisterous threestory restaurant. Chef Joey Sergentakis infuses flavors from different cultures into his dishes, from a black tea smoked free-range chicken to a whole snapper charred in Balinese Spices. Mr & Mrs Fox, 23 Tong Chong St., Quarry Bay, 2697-8500.

DIN TAI FUNG — Chinese $$ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese $$$$ Devotees swear this Cantonese fine diner serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world, and the food is pretty darn good—with prices to match. Something of a throwback to old Hong Kong, it’s been the go-to for Chinese specialties for more than five decades. 53-59 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-0286. FOXTAIL & BROOMCORN — Asian $ Get ready to slurp on some trendy strands courtesy of Foxtail & Broomcorn, a noodle bar that serves signature recipes from all over Asia—but with a contemporary, European twist. G/F, 84 Jervois St., Sheung Wan, 2415-2555. Ho Lee Fook 28 W H E R E HONG KONG I D E C E M B E R 2 015

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DINING | The Guide

Tea Three Ways Tea sets like never before, paired with entertainment, food treasures, and diamonds galore. By Kadijah Watkins

Nanhai No. 1

Christmas Cuppa Creative culinary art is at the core of Popsy Modern Kitchen’s offerings this holiday season as they prep to serve up the ultimate Christmas dining experience. Guests can anticipate a Nutcracker-themed tea set, Christmas dinner in a secret garden and a New Year’s Eve one-of-a-kind performance dinner. So, if you’re feeling creatively festive this year, head to this new establishment. $280 per person for the Nutcracker Afternoon Tea Set available until Jan 3, 2016. $1,280 per person for the eight-course dinner menu available Dec 24-25, 31. $2,280 per person for the New Year’s Eve dinner menu. 5/F, The Wellington, 184-198 Wellington St., Central, 2907-8188.

Diamonds and Tea Three On Canton and Forevermark present the “Forever Kiss” High Tea Set full of glamour, glitz and diamonds. Come enjoy foie gras with mango jello, Parma ham with fig jam on brioche, and tea blends to delight. Oh, and it’s all presented in a diamond ring-shaped display. $488 for two people for the “Forever Kiss” high tea set available until Dec 10. Level 3, Gateway Hotel, Harbour City, 2113-7828.

NANHAI NO. 1 — Chinese $$$ Nanhai No. 1 does classic Chinese fare with a slightly modern flair. Seafood takes center stage here, and the restaurant offers a wide array of freshly caught fish. Choose your catch and then tell the kitchen team how you’d like it prepared. Otherwise, put your trust in the restaurant’s recommendations and go for their signature juicy baked oysters in spicy Sichuan sauce or geoduck simmered in consommé. Shop 3001, 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3688. THE PENTHOUSE BY HARLAN GOLDSTEIN — Western $$$$ The Penthouse, occupying 6,800 sq. ft, is now chef Goldstein’s fourth establishment. This restaurant showcases handcrafted pastas and a Josper grill. 30/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, 1-29 Tung Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970-0828. THE WALRUS— Oysters $$$$ Savor fresh oysters at The Walrus, where they are paired with miso sauce, kale and salad dressing, and even served as shooters like Bloody Mary. With dishes given whimsical names like Lady Gaga, The Walrus is a must-try for seafood lovers and adventurous souls. 64 Staunton St., Central, 9862-8031.

In Truffle We Trust It’s officially white truffle season and Tosca wants to celebrate! With their white truffle afternoon tea sets for the holiday season, the “diamond of the kitchen” will be making an appearance in lots of dishes. From burrata cheese risotto with shavings of white truffles to topinambur ice cream embedded with the rare delicacy, your taste buds should be more than satisfied. $580 per person, or $1,088 for two. Available every Saturday until Dec 19. Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon.

TIM HO WAN — Dim sum $ If you’re looking for some cheap and delicious dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy. Shop 12A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332-3078. TIN LUNG HEEN — Chinese $$$$ Hong Kong has some of the best city views in the world, and one prime spot to take them in is from the top of the tallest building in the city. At the Ritz’s posh Chinese restaurant Tin Lung Heen, though, the only thing that could possibly distract you from a view this good is the food. Unsurprisingly, given the hotel’s pedigree, chefs here dish up a refined Cantonese feast fit for a king. 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

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DINING

Wooloomooloo Prime

VEGGIE PALACE — Vegetarian/Organic $$ Lovely middle-aged ladies constantly buzz in and out of the busy kitchen at the back, carrying steaming platters to the tables and scooping up finished dishes in one fluid motion. At about $240 per head, you’re served a multi-course menu of whatever’s available for the day. There are no meat dishes here but if you didn’t know any better you would’ve thought otherwise. Room 3, Loft, Block B, Kwong Sang Hong Building, 6 Heard St., Wan Chai, 2838-6506. WOOLOOMOOLOO PRIME — Steak $$$ This elegant Wooloomooloo outpost is a must for serious steak lovers. Choose from 200-day grain-fed Australian steaks as well as other selected cuts from the US, ranging from 10-ounce to hearty 20-ounce cuts. 21/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2870-0087. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese $$$ There are two branches of Ye Shanghai, but if we had to choose we’d pick the Kowloon branch for its sprawling, fabulous nouveau Chinois decor. As for the food, it’s good, upscale Shanghainese cuisine served in shareable portions. Go for dishes such as xiaolongbao, river shrimps and the camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-3322. YUNG KEE — Cantonese $ Not to be mistaken for the Chinese restaurant in Central, this Yung Kee is more down-to-earth, and with equally lovely food. Turn right from Sham Shui Po’s exit D2, and you’ll be greeted with posters and banners for countless Chinese restaurants. Judging from how full Yung Kee is, we’ll safely say it’s one of the most popular options. G/F, 118-120 Fuk Wa St., Sham Shui Po, 2387-1051.

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated. O C T O B E R 2 015 I WHERE H O N G K O N G 31

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DRINKS | The Guide

Republic Bar and Lounge Co-owned by a trio of new and seasoned SoHo and Sheung Wan restaurant owners, Republic takes on the solid, if slightly dated, concept of a prohibition-era bar. By Evelyn Lok Republic sports a speakeasy vibe, from its upstairs location at the quieter end of Elgin Street to the viewing hatch that meets you at the door. But it’s not overdone: Inside you’ll find unpretentious interiors, with the spotlight placed firmly on the top-shelf tipples behind the bar. Classic cocktails fill most of the menu here, but the bar’s bread and butter lies with using carefully selected American craft liquors— from Hanson of Sonoma organic vodkas to three types of moonshines, which you can try neat or on the rocks ($98-108). Our favorite was the sweet tea moonshine: very drinkable, with nothing of the strong hooch flavor you might expect, leaving an aromatic aftertaste of tea tannins. The apple pie moonshine was juicy and tart, with a strong smack of cinnamon.

For those who like a hardcore challenge, the potent (103- proof!) “Harley-Davidson moonshine” aptly smells kind of like motor oil. It’s a heavily smoked whiskey best savored in the Otto Walker ($178) cocktail, named after the famous motorcycle daredevil and made along with Fireball whiskey, triple sec, amaretto and cranberry. Of the signatures, the old fashioned ($158) wins the popularity contest for incorporating cherry bitters, charred orange and maple syrup that’s been smoked and cigar infused, resulting in a smooth, layered drink. 1/F, The Elgin, 51 Elgin St., Central, 2670-0698.

ALCHEMY — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-the-dark experience in the basement. The concept is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Prefer to eat in the light? Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801. AMAZAKE — Amazake is sandwiched between three of Hong Kong’s biggest clubs: Play, Levels and Dizzi. The bar and restaurant is bright and pumping with energy, a place for large groups to pre-game before hitting the clubs next door. G/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2537-7787.

AQUA SPIRIT — This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views. 29-30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. CRAFT BREW & CO — Unlike other beer joints, you won’t find a single mass-produced beer here. There are brews from the likes of Anderson Valley, Anchor and Mountain Goat— and of course, local brewery Young Master Ales. Craft Brew also serves gourmet grilled sausages, made with some unusual ingredients. Forget your average bratwurst (although that’s also on offer)—you’ll find exotic meats such as crocodile, cobra and rabbit on the menu. G/F, 17 Old Bailey St., Central, 2885-0821.

Amazake

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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DJIBOUTII — Hidden down an unassuming alleyway in Wan Chai, Djiboutii is an Africaninspired “urban sanctuary.” Ingredients like Casamigos tequila, sloe berry liqueurs and Aztec chocolate make appearances in signature cocktails. Nibble on kebab skewers and naan bread dipped in baba ganoush. Shop 1, G/F, 2 Landale St., Wan Chai, 9449-0777. EDITION — Riding on the Korean-American food trend, gastropub Edition has opened in SoHo. Indulge in signature soju cocktails, which go great with its fusion dishes like bulgogi sliders and kimchi fries. G/F, 37 Peel St., Central, 2336-6695. FU LU SHOU — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the superhip Fu Lu Shou is already all the rage. Meaning “happiness, prosperity and longevity,” Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find western-style Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. HAM & SHERRY — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628. LILY AND BLOOM — A-list celebs have been seen here, with VIPs being buzzed in and out of the fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Expect swarms of glitterati and the party elite. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted at the thought that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. NEO — Everything in this bar screams the 80s, as socialites and nerds alike flock here in droves for the artisanal cocktails and vintage

arcade games. The Playboy pinball machine adds a touch of playfulness to the ambience, with the signature cocktail “Express Polaroid” giving you the unforgettable taste. 10 Shin Hing St., Sheung Wan, 2812-2280. OZONE — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. PLAY — Head to the lounge room, equipped with two standard pool tables, for happy hour drink specials and exceedingly tasty bar snacks with friends, or get on the dance floor and shake your body to the beats. 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2525-1318.

selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”—choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. THE PONTIAC — Boasting a selection of craft spirits and cocktails, The Pontiac is helmed by mixologist Beckaly Franks, first-ever female winner of 42 Below Cocktail World Cup. Head down to The Pontiac if you feel like having a wild night out, and relish the exuberant ambience with the crowd. 13 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-3855. THE TONNO — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

QUINARY — This chic hangout on Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey caviar martini and the oolong tea Collins are both highly recommended. 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223. RED BAR — Great for alfresco drinks, this is a popular spot with suits and gym bunnies who hustle over from Pure Fitness for a low-cal meal and a sinful cocktail or three. It’s one of the largest terraces in town, with an awesome view. 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. SEVVA — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant and lounge and offers unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. SHORE — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks

THE WOODS — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor—hence the name—and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. LG/F, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281. VOLAR — The 5,000-square-foot club is divided into two main rooms: the Club Room and the Electronic Room. The design focuses on highlighting light and sound through decor, with a futuristic, clean and crisp look. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

Finance This Go on a shopping spree at one of Hong Kong’s most iconic landmarks. By Tammy Ha

At the heart of Hong Kong's finance district, the International Finance Centre is made up of two blocks of office towers with plenty of shopping and dining options on its lower levels. You might recognize its iconic towers from cameos in Hollywood films such as "The Dark Knight" and "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider." With the Airport Express station just below, you can do some convenient last-minute shopping or catch a final glimpse of Hong Kong's skyscrapers before you hop on your flight home. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308, www.ifc.com.hk.

Big Fernand

YellowKorner

Satiate your hunger with a fresh juicy burger, homemade fries and refreshing lemonade from acclaimed Parisian joint Big Fernand and let yourself be transported back to the 80s as you sing along to this joint's chart-toppers.

Find inspiration from the world’s greatest photographers at YellowKorner, which hosts exhibitions and sells limited edition prints. There's everything from surreal shots of the city to stunning wildlife snaps. Shop 3022B, 2578-5888.

Shop 2017, 6650-0580.

Tai Pan Row As for the gents, feel free to treat yourself with a well-fitted suit personally tailored for you at Tai Pan Row. With 40 years of experience up its sleeve, this locally based luxury tailoring brand won’t let you down. Shop 3015, 2147-2828.

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HONG KONG

Shop G&H, G/F, Burlington House, 90-94C Nathan Road, T.S.T., KLN., H.K.

STOCKIST OF WORLD RENOWNED FABRICS SUCH AS

尖沙咀彌敦道90-94C 號華敦大廈地舖G和H

(Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit B1) Tel: (852) 2366 5635 / 2366 6612 / 2368 8625 BUSINESS HOURS

09:00AM-09:00PM (MON-SAT) 10:00AM-07PM (SUN) www.apsleytailors.com.hk sales@apsleytailors.com.hk

AND MANY MORE

LONDON

13-13A Pall Mall, London SW1Y 5LU Tel: +44 020 7925 2238 | www.apsleytailors.com 20 Ad Where Dec 15.indd 35

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BESPOKE | The Guide

Jewel in the Crown If you’re looking for that special piece of jewelry, why not consider having it made for you? By Dan Creffield Bespoke jewelry is becoming increasingly popular in Hong Kong. Whether it’s for a special occasion or a gift, there are several companies who can craft you the perfect piece, whatever your budget. At the higher end, Haywards of Hong Kong, established in 2006, has become a leading bespoke jeweler. Specializing in 18-karat gold wedding and engagement rings in yellow, white and rose gold as well as platinum, the company has more than 40 years combined experience in the industry, and can offer both creative and practical advice. “The design process starts with a consultation with the client Where 175x125 HP Ad_3.pdf

to discuss what they have in mind, whether it’s just the most basic concept or the entire design fully formed,” says David Nazer, Haywards' bespoke jewelry and diamond specialist. After the design is fixed the gems and diamonds are selected. Haywards then puts the piece together in around three weeks. Nazer adds that while jewelry is extremely personal, representing the taste and personality of the bearer, trends tend to move slowly and most styles do not date: they simply become classic. Haywards of Hong Kong, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-4400. 1

20/11/15

10:24 AM

CMY

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BESPOKE

BESPOKE JEWELRY NOMERA AJMAL — As well as designing and handcrafting her eponymous range of earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets in Hong Kong using traditional craftsmanship skills and techniques, UK-born Ajmal offers bespoke jewelry ranging from wedding bands, engagement rings and statement pieces. She previously worked in Dubai, Kuwait and Beijing before settling in Hong Kong January 2013. Her copper and brass Islamic-inspired pieces, priced from $700 and up, are crafted for the super confident woman who knows exactly what she wants. Aly & Rachelle, S411, Block A, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2559-5716, www.nomerajewellery.com. CARMEN CHAN — Self-confessed “dreamer and lover of beautiful things,” Carmen Chan aims to create designs that celebrate individuality and imperfection with her jewelry and accessory brand, which she launched in February 2013. With a philosophy that every woman is one of a kind, Chan offers a range of custom jewelry in silver, gold, diamonds and gemstones. Each stone she works with is unique, and rings are customizable, with pieces starting from $1,500. Chan came to the public eye after collaborating with prominent

bloggers interested in supporting local designers, and she is currently researching a bridal jewelry collection. GumGumGum, G/F, Fashion Walk, 6 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 3486-7070, www.carmenchanjewelry.com. SHLOKA JEWELS — Although she worked at an investment bank after graduating, Prerna Agarwal, who is behind Shloka Jewels, turned her back on finance and went on to study gemology and jewelry design before creating her own range in Hong Kong. Agarwal’s fine jewelry line offers premium jewelry gifts, quality gemstones and bespoke design services for those looking for something special. She launched her signature “Fleur” collection with Glamourpods, a site that works with designers in the fashion accessories market, and her designs are now available across various portals. Her outlook is that jewelry should be purchased as “beautiful investments”. Prices start from $2,800. 2376-2154, www.shlokacollection.com.

Carmen Chan

Hainanese Chicken Rice

For reservations call 2213 6613 Level 2, Hotel Jen Hong Kong (Exit B2 of HKU Station) 508 Queen’s Road West, Western District, Hong Kong D E C E M B E R 2 0 15 I WHERE H O N G K O N G 37

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

Get the Look Keep warm yet stylish with these hot items By Isabelle Hon

Noble Lustre necklace, $TBC, TSL

Rivestito Dei Fiori Knit Top, $6,995, Anteprima

Noble Lustre earrings, $TBC, TSL

Toscana Sheepskin Gilet, $7,995, A.T by Atsuro Tayama

Anteprima Shop 3079, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2167-7386.

TSL 1 Yee Woo St., Causeway Bay, 2923-7081.

Shop 10-18

A.T by Atsuro Tayama Shop 505, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-1928. 38 W H E R E H ONG KONG I D E C E M B E R 2 015

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SHOPS+SERVICES

Structure Folded Vest, $1,610, Nudite

CMY

Shading Pencil Skirt, $1,400, Nudite

Anna Sui Sunglasses $1,980 @ Leo Optic

Leo Optic Shop 638, 6/F, New Town Plaza, Phase 1, 10-18 Shatin Centre St., Sha Tin. 2677-6776. Nudite nuditefashion.com.

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

Hot Picks Must-haves this season By Isabelle Hon

Gold Noel Snowflake ornament, $1,700, Baccarat

Richly Hydrating Hand Cream Set, $240, Kiehl's

Le Pli Postal, $240, Diptyque Boutique

Diptyque Boutique Shop 1080, Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-6799.

Harcourt Talleyrand Coffee Set, $3,100, Baccarat

Kiehl's Shop 11A, Fashion Walk, Paterson Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, 2328-9399.

Baccarat Shop 121, Landmark Princeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-2303.

Shop 2

Thisworks net-a-porter.com.

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SHOPS+SERVICES

Crescent Bra, $288; Panties, $98, Peach John

Deep Sleep Pillow Spray, $205, Thisworks

Peach John Shop P202, Podium 2, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-6012.

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

IFC Mall

SHOPPING CENTERS APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late and closes later. With 150 shops and more than 20 restaurants offering cuisine from around the world as well as a cinemaplex, this shopping mall is not to be missed. Millennium City, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — This upscale shopping mall was developed by the MTR Corporation and sits directly above Kowloon station. It features everything from luxury brands and fine dining to a skating rink and cinema. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HORIZON PLAZA — Horizon Plaza is basically an industrial building that is packed to the rafters with great shopping, notably the Joyce and Lane Crawford fashion warehouses—where last season's cast-offs are available at a fraction of the in-store price. Boasting 200,000 square feet, you can get anything from barbecues, kids' clothing, carpets and outdoor furniture to toys and antiques. Parking available. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. HYSAN PLACE — The newest addition to shopping haven Causeway Bay houses Taiwanese mega-bookshop Eslite, a trendy food court and lots of hip, mid-range brands like Hollister and GAP. The lower levels include a sizeable beauty and cosmetics section, watch shops, and supermarket-slash-lifestyle store Jasons Food & Living. Techies also get their share of shopping with a giant Apple store on the ground floor. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. IFC MALL — Located above the Airport Express station, the IFC Mall is home to more than 200 shops, uber chic restaurants and the city's most prestigious gym, Pure Fitness. Catch a movie at the five-screen Cineplex—with the plushest leather seats in Central—or dine at some of the city's trendiest restaurants. The elaborately decorated Lane Crawford is well worth a visit, as are the hordes of flagship stores. Customers

can also make use of Lane Crawford's complimentary fashion and cosmetic concierge. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. K11 — K11 combines innovative design and a trendy shopping experience. This six-story mall has 340,000 square feet of floor space housing art exhibitions and chic stores. This one-of-a-kind shopping center offers a glimpse into Hong Kong's creative side. 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3118-8070. LANGHAM PLACE MALL — This 15-story mega mall offers the latest in hip and stylish accoutrements. Housing 300 retailers, this entertainment and retail destination also includes anchor tenants UA Cinemas, Seibu, and 34 food and beverage outlets. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 2148-1518. LEE GARDENS — Divided into two blocks (Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two), this is a luxury shopping mall stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier and more. Lee Gardens Two has several children's fashion shops, and there are plenty of good restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227. PMQ — PMQ (former Police Married Quarters) is one of the biggest creative hubs in Hong Kong, packed full of independent design stores selling arts, crafts, clothes and leather goods. 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2870-2335. PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular shopping malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants. Some of the biggest names in fashion and jewelry have a presence here, including Gucci, Prada, Chopard and Cartier. Luxe department store Harvey Nichols, Great Food Hall (a grocery store with a great selection of prepared foods for takeaway) and an AMC cinema are a few of the anchor tenants. Shop 1801, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.

THE LANDMARK — Best known for its five-floor Harvey Nichols, Louis Vuitton flagship and a relaxing atrium, The Landmark is a five-star experience. Featuring the world's leading designer labels, The Landmark is a one-stop shop for luxury goods, be it high fashion or expensive jewelry. 15 Queen's Rd. Central, 2525-4142 . TIMES SQUARE — The 12-story Times Square packs some of Hong Kong's most popular stores. Electronics, fashion, sports gear and jewelry stores can all be found in the main building. The concierge service, located on the second floor, provides a range of services, including booster cables and sewing kits. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900. ISQUARE — iSquare is another relatively new shopping complex on Nathan Road. Conveniently located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, it is an elite center boasting a variety of shops, a supermarket, an abundance of restaurants and an IMAX theater. 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3665-3333.

SHOPS, BOUTIQUES AND LOCAL DESIGNERS 22 DEGREES NORTH — Art, culture and leather satchels: this stylish concept store has its eye on the hipster community. 22 Degrees North opened up shop in a converted fabric store in Sham Shui Po and aims to be a meeting point for Hongkongers in the creative ﬁeld. The threestory space consists of a lifestyle shop, a hangout area (where you can also take classes) and a multipurpose space for exhibitions and gigs. 88 Nam Cheong St., Sham Shui Po, 2568-1147. AMELIE & TULIPS — Located on the ground ﬂoor of a wicked trendy tong lau in the wicked trendy PoHo rectangle, this Scandinavian design boutique is sure to be a hit with the in crowd. 56 Sai St., (main entrance on Tai Ping Shan St.), Sheung Wan, 2291-0005.

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SHOPS+SERVICES CHINESE ARTS & CRAFTS — One of Hong Kong’s most famous cheongsam-makers, this shop has more than 100 years’ experience in tailoring and Chinese crafts. Its cheongsams are traditionally cut from high-quality fabric imported from China. The shop has had a large international following, including Hillary Clinton, Margaret Thatcher and former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri. Shop 220, Pacific Place 2, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-3933. FOUND MUJI — Found Muji is Muji's unique concept store that does exactly what it promises in its name: the company finds everyday items in remote locations, and then reproduces them with tweaks and upgrades to suit customer tastes. Room S107, 1/F, PMQ Block A, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 3971-3138. HARVEY NICHOLS — The holy grail for all true fashionistas, the Harvey Nichols Asia flagship store has an enormous collection of shoes, handbags, clothes and everything else you could need for the coming months. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388. JOYCE BOUTIQUE — Named for Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma established the company but these days takes a back seat. Ma was the first person to bring topend international designers to Hong Kong, and the shop is still the place for red-hot women’s and men’s fashion and accessories by the likes of Anna Sui, Vera Wang, Robert Dennis and John Galliano. The two-story shop is a masterpiece of funky luxury, decked out with an elaborate gold facade and boasting a fabulous beauty section. G/F,

New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120. LANE CRAWFORD — Perched above Victoria Harbour, Lane Crawford carries one of the largest ranges of high-end designer brands in Hong Kong. The vast collection of shoes, handbags, accessories and trendy clothes is sure to have your wardrobe sorted in one swoop. The Lane Crawford stores at Times Square and Pacific Place also have a large collection of kitchenware. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-3428. RUE DE MARSEILLE — This concept shop falls under the agnes B. umbrella and is divided into different sections. There’s a florist shop, a patisserie, a vinyl records section, and separate floors for men’s and ladies’ fashion. Shop G26, G28 & 117-120, K11 Art Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282. SHANGHAI TANG FLAGSHIP STORE — More of a luxe Chinese emporium than a department store, Shanghai Tang’s flagship relocated from its iconic Pedder Street home in 2012. The homegrown luxury brand specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find watches and accessories, great homewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke tailored cheongsams. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. TANG TANG TANG TANG — Big dog Sir David Tang is at it again. This lifestyle store, which sits underneath The Pawn, offers up chic-yetslightly gimmicky home products—think retrocolonial Hong Kong with a modern Western twist. So if you’re looking to spice up your digs with a little Hong Kong feel, or you’re after a

cool gift for friends back home, then TTTT could be worth your time. 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. WOAW! — Gough Street is one of Hong Kong's hippest areas, raising the bar even higher with a new addition to the neighborhood: lifestyle concept store WOAW!, which stands for World of Amazing Wonders. From Karen Walker sunnies to funky shoes to totally unique travel bags, the venture from designer and entrepreneur Kevin Poon is sure to add some fresh ﬁnds to your home and wardrobe. It also has Hershel bags for almost every occasion, whether you need a dufﬂe for travel or a tote for shopping. 11 Gough St., Central, 2253-1313.

SPAS & SALONS BLISS SPA — Situated on the 72nd ﬂoor of the W Hotel, the Bliss Spa has a spectacular view of the harbor. There are nine treatment rooms, including the VIP suites, steam rooms, saunas and a vitality pool to dip into before or after your treatment. 72/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2797. CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories. 41/F, Langham Place, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510. THE NAIL LIBRARY — With its designer lacquers, loft setting and complimentary bubbly, The Nail Library is one of the coolest salons in town. This nail sanctuary also has a growing reputation for creative and trend-setting nail art designs. 6 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan, 2803-2290.

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NAVIGATE | The Guide

Run Away to the Circus! Outdoor ice-skating, street artists, a European food court and non-stop entertainment—yes, the carnival is back in town! The AIA Great European Carnival will take place again at the Central Harbourfront Event Space, from December 17 to February 21, 2016. The 67-day event will run over all the major festive dates including Christmas, New Year’s Eve, Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year—with special celebrations planned for each. After attracting more than 830,000 visitors last year, the event will feature favorite rides returning in addition to several new ones. There will be new and revitalized games and more than a million plush toys to be won during the carnival. It will also introduce Hong Kong to the Luminarie experience, spectacular grand structures made of handcrafted lights from Italy. The popular photo boards will this year be 3D scaled replicas of iconic landmarks from across Europe. Hong Kong’s only outdoor ice-skating rink returns and there will be plenty more roaming street artists, a European food court and non-stop entertainment on the main stage. The Udderbelly Festival Hong Kong, also presented by AIA, offers a unique entertainment space in the form of an upside-down purple cow named Violet, one of the UK’s most popular festival events, will debut and offer a variety of entertainment for young and old. www.tgec.asia

SIGHTS AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly musicand-laser extravaganza called the “Symphony of Lights.” Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BIG BUDDHA — Beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha, the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive when viewed from the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is "The Wisdom Path," lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248.

Lan Kwai Fong

CHEUNG SHA BEACH — Lantau. Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest

beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island paradise. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails, only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. DUKLING CHINESE SAILING JUNK — The traditional Chinese junk, which was built in 1955, has recently undergone a major refurbishment and is set to sail the waters once more. Check the website for schedules and prices, 2368-8885. FA YUEN STREET — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen Street, Prince Edward.

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NAVIGATE

www.mtr.com.hk

GOLDFISH MARKET — Goldfish are said to have a natural ability to stabilize feng shui, making them a popular pet in Hong Kong. These two Mong Kok streets teem with fish in tanks or, more often, plastic bags stapled to the stall walls. Bute St., near Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok. HAPPY VALLEY RACECOURSE— Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenaline-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is non-profit-making, donating over $1 billion a year to local charities. Happy Valley. HONG KONG OBSERVATION WHEEL — The city now has its own ferris wheel right by Victoria Harbour, for those who can't get enough of Hong Kong's stunning skyline. 33 Man Kwong St., Central. LAN KWAI FONG — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar St., Central.

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NAVIGATE | The Guide TOURIST INFORMATION HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhongkong.com to learn about attractions, shopping, dining and touring tips, as well as the month’s events and festivals. You'll also find virtual tours, e-cards, photos and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

GET MOVING

Peak Tram

OCEAN PARK — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank or a coral reef, or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 3923-2323. PEAK TRAM — There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair—a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting up Hong Kong Island's tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. St. Joseph's Building, Central, 2522-0922. SHEK O BEACH — Take Bus 9 from the Shau Kei Wan MTR station.A wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island, separated from the city by a twisting, 40-minute drive, Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. Shek O Rd., Shek O. STANLEY MARKET — Open daily 10:30am6:30pm. Stanley Market is worth visiting for interesting gifts, sports and casual wear, silk and leather goods. It's not the cheapest market anymore, but its location in the chilled-out seaside village of Stanley makes for a pleasant day out, especially if you stay for lunch. Stanley Market Rd., Stanley.

TAI O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a “Venice of the East,” but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. TEMPLE STREET NIGHT MARKET — This night market comes alive at around 6pm and sells everything from cheap watches to cute accessories and souvenirs. Local amateur musicians perform Cantonese opera on weekends. Stalls with fortune tellers and outdoor restaurants line the shopping area, too. Make sure to drive a hard bargain. Temple St., Jordan. B

Hong Kong has a great rapid transit railway system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine or even a helicopter.

TAXIS Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

OCTOPUS CARDS These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets such as convenience stores. Simply tap it on the pads at the entrance to public transportation or at the cash register in shops. Payment is instantly deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them.

Ocean Park

Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

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NAVIGATE

Ask the Concierge

SAM’S THE MAN (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Kowloon Shangri-La Chief Concierge Ringo Chau offers tips and recommendations to create the perfect Hong Kong experience, whatever your budget. What’s the most important Chinese word you think a visitor should learn? Nei Ho (a greeting meaning “Hello”).

Where would you suggest going for authentic Chinese food? Apart from our hotel’s Michelin two-starred Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant, I would recommend Yung Kee Restaurant in Central, especially for roast goose, and if you are adventurous enough, century egg. It’s actually duck egg, but it’s black and the name of the dish may be off-putting. It is definitely not a century old!

Are there any Hong Kong treasures you’d recommend? Wife cake [a traditional Cantonese pastry with a crust of flaky pastry, a filling of winter melon, almond paste and sesame, spiced with fivespice powder] as a souvenir and the Geopark [a unique natural area with outstanding geological, natural and cultural landscapes in Sai Kung Country Park].

This could be yours in

What’s the strangest request you’ve had? A couple was searching for the birthplace of their father in Guangzhou. We hired a tour guide to escort and help them and eventually they finally found the place.

HONG KONG

Where would you go to buy a nice present for your partner?

For Advertising rates

PMQ [the former Police Married Quarters, now a creative hub] near Aberdeen Street in Central, where you can find a variety of premium locally designed gifts.

and further information.

If you had all the money in the world to spend for a day in Hong Kong, what would you do?

Call 2565 2222

Hire a luxury boat to enjoy night views of Victoria Harbour while enjoying a fabulous meal onboard with my loved ones.

And if you had just $100? Take a ferry to Silver Mine Bay on Lantau Island and hike from Mui Wo to Tai O fishing village to enjoy Hong Kong’s great outdoors.

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WALKING TOURS | The Guide

A Taste of Hong Kong’s Markets For the non-stop-shop experience of the true Hong Kong urbanite, look no further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok—the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula. Within these two neighborhoods are side streets and alleys that are home to some of Hong Kong’s liveliest markets. Head to the Prince Edward MTR Station and exit at B1. Walk east along Prince Edward Road West to the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden

Flower Market This popular market will welcome you first with the sweet natural fragrances and then with the eye-catching ﬂowers and plants sold for very attractive prices. Open 7am-7pm daily.

Set within a Chinese-style courtyard, the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden caters to bird owners. They come to the market to find exotic birds, buy pet accessories and food, or to just take their pet birds for a “walk” and meet up with fellow owners. Open 7am-8pm daily.

At the end of Flower Market Road, turn left and then right into Prince Edward Road West. Walk west until you see a gas station, then turn left into Tung Choi Street.

Walk through the Bird Garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street and Flower Market Road.

Shops selling colorful fish or related paraphernalia line both sides of Tung Choi Street. Open 10:30am-10pm daily.

Goldfish Market

Walk along Tung Choi Street, turn left into Bute Street and then turn right into Fa Yuen Street.

Fa Yuen Street Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find trendy fashion at bargain prices. Open 11am-9:30pm daily. Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street. Walk to Argyle Street and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.

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Ladies’ Market Don’t be deceived by the name. The Ladies’ Market has something for everyone, offering bargain-priced items from clothing to knickknacks, watches to beauty products. Open noon-11:30pm daily. Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right and walk to Shanghai Street on the left.

Shanghai Street Visit one of the city’s oldest streets. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1900s, and some shops have existed for decades. It’s also a great place to pick up bargain kitchenware. Continue along Shanghai Street and turn right at Kansu Street to find the Jade Market.

Jade Market About 400 stalls here sell amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made from the revered green stone. This is a fun place to browse and to buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice before buying anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Open 10am-5pm daily. Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.

Temple Street Night Market This is the famous night market, open from 4pm until midnight daily, where you can find all kinds of cheapo items, including clothes, sunglasses, gadgets and curios. You’ll also often see fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players hanging out too. D E C E M B E R 2 015 I WHERE H O N G K O N G 49

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24 HOURS IN HK | The Guide

Three days, 30 challenges It’ll keep you busy, but if you’ve got the stamina you can pack lots of Hong Kong’s most exciting experiences into 72 hours • Counting the Ten Thousand Buddhas at the eponymous hilltop monastery near Sha Tin. • Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2920-2888. • Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island. • Having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Yau Ma Tei.

• Kickin’ it with Bruce Lee at the waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui. • Shopping at Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. • Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. • Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung peninsula.

• Spotting endangered pink dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

• Riding the cable car over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha). Lantau Island.

• Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

• Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

• Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong— the tram from Western (Sheung Wan) to Causeway Bay.

• Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., 2849-5111. • Setting our watches by the Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay. • Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. • Meeting Pui Pui, the famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 3152-2666. • Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple. • Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Aqua Luna, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2116-8821.

Tian Tan Buddha

• Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-35 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. • Bird watching at the Mai Po Marshes. Mai Po, 2526-1011. • Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill. • Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30–4:30pm. Weather permitting. • Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. • Walking down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. • Drinking in the view at a panoramic watering hole like Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988. • Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower. Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. • Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4088. • Taking the Peak Tram all the way to the top. • Checking out pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.

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LANDMARKS | The Guide

SIGHTS TO

BEHOLD Seek out five of Hong Kong’s true architectural gems.

The Scene of Justice Set amid the towering financial institutions that dominate Hong Kong’s Central District is the elegant Old Supreme Court. Constructed on reclaimed land using Chinese fir-tree piles as foundations, it was the home of the Supreme Court until 1985. The building is preserved as a historical monument and is fronted by a striking statue of Themis, the Greek Goddess of Justice. 8 Jackson Rd., Central.

Home for the Arts Constructed in 1892 and once a cold storage warehouse, the Old Dairy Farm Depot is now home to the Hong Kong Fringe Club and the Foreign Correspondents’ Club. The Fringe Club’s portion of the brick and stucco building on Central’s Lower Albert Road has undergone eight major refurbishments and is now a vibrant contemporary arts space. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central.

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LANDMARKS

Roof with a View Take a walk down Garden Road and you will come across the Former French Mission Building on Battery Path. This neoclassicalstyle granite and red-brick building boasts an eye-catching cupola. Until recently it was used as the Hong Kong Court of Final Appeal and is now a declared monument. 1 Battery Path, Central.

Putting Money on the Map

A Taste of the Past

On the Central District waterfront, the International Finance Centre is a prominent landmark on Hong Kong Island and consists of two skyscrapers. The buildings have hosted an exhibition on Hong Kong’s monetary history, been featured in a number of blockbuster Hollywood movies, and put up an advertisement on the façade in 2003 that stretched more than 50 stories—making it the world’s largest skyscraper advert.

One of the most intriguing buildings you can visit is Murray House, a beautiful, restored three-story colonial building dating back more than 150 years. It was painstakingly dismantled brick-by-brick from Central in 1982 and moved to its present location in the former fishing village of Stanley on the south of Hong Kong Island. Stanley Main Street, Stanley.

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MONTH BY MONTH

DECEMBER

We Wish You a Merry WinterFest If you think Hong Kong may not seem an obvious place where the festive Christmas spirit burns bright, you’d be wrong. Perhaps a hangover from British colonial days but more to do with local people’s fondness for time off, good food and shopping, the SAR takes the Yuletide break very seriously. The two-day public holiday is usually accompanied by dry, mild weather, which makes it pleasant to walk around Central and Tsim Sha Tsui admiring the amazing Christmas displays put on by the numerous shopping malls. About 40 buildings along the harborfront stage a fabulous show, Symphony of Lights, incorporating festive lighting and laser images, popular with locals and visitors alike. Christmas sales are common, and festive markets are also becoming a permanent part of the local consumer experience.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY Chinese New Year

JUNE Dragon Boat Festival

FEBRUARY/MARCH Spring Lantern Festival

AUGUST Hungry Ghost Festival

MARCH Hung Shing Festival

OCTOBER Chung Yeung Festival

APRIL Ching Ming Festival

DECEMBER Christmas

MAY Cheung Chau Bun Festival

For many though, it’s all about food, and almost all of Hong Kong’s western-style restaurants, especially those in hotels, will be offering special Christmas dinners.

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