The National platform for sustainable fashion and textiles ACTION PLAN
EDITED BY Susanne Nejderås, Smart Textiles/Science Park Borås Lena-Marie Jensen, Smart Textiles/Science Park Borås Jonas Larsson, Swedish School of Textiles Anna Lidström, Swedish School of Textiles Håkan Torstensson, Swedish School of Textiles Jan Carlsson, Swedish School of Textiles in cooperation with partners and stakeholders DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Brainforest, brainforest.se
HOLDING AB
HOLDING AB COVER ILLUSTRATION House of Knowledge, photo by Suss Wilén Model Katja Barry, photo by Anna Sigge Clothes by Smart Textiles PUBLISHED BY Björn Brorström, University of Borås Erik Bresky, Science Park Borås Susanne Nejderås, Smart Textiles/Science Park Borås
SCIENCE PARK BORÅS – A PART OF
Summary There is a growing awareness about issues related to the environment and resource efficiency in the textile sector and the need to convert to a more sustainable society. The Swedish Government has commissioned the University of Borüs to establish a national platform for sustainable fashion and textiles, which is intended to serve as a tool and a resource for enterprises in this transition. The platform will promote collaboration between participants in the textile value chain, provide training, research and innovation and support new, sustainable business models. It will work towards meeting relevant national environmental targets and the goals of the 2030 Agenda, with a targeted approach to the transition to a circular economy in which closed-loop chains are the norm. It thereby contributes to an environmentally, socially and economically sustainable development. The platform aims to attract a range of stakeholders, like a magnet, to have the capacity to act as matchmaker bringing parties together and identify synergies, and to have access to an adequate toolbox. It will be recognized by the sector as the natural centre of knowledge and collaboration, making Sweden take the lead in environment and sustainability. The platform’s target audiences and collaboration plans span small and medium-sized enterprises, decision-makers, authorities and public sector purchasers, institutes, NGOs, universities and higher education units, consumers and influencers, as well as students. Its approach is based on the See-Do-Learn model, where See encompasses visualisation of problemsand opportunities supported by research and best practices, thereby raising awareness of environmental issues; Do refers primarily to idea generation, development, prototyping, testing and demonstration, which underlines the realism of eco-cycle based projects, in which a resource created previously, the DO-tank, can be utilised; while Learn is concerned with learning from completed projects and the upgrading of skills enabled by training and other activities. Three primary areas of knowledge support and interact with the model from a design and system perspective: 1) Materials, chemistry and recycling; 2) Product design, production and technology; 3) Business models and consumption. These areas are developed in groups with relevant expertise and interact with the visualisation and development measures that See-Do-Learn entails. Design is considered to be a key factor, which determines the sustainability of products and systems through composition, choice of materials, range of applications and redesign potential. This applies especially to regular activities in the form of seminars, workshops, conferences and exhibitions which will take place frequently in different parts of the country. They seek to provide the inspiration for ideas and development projects which are brought forward by stakeholders, preferably in small or large groups. The platform offers a progress model for such development projects and a number of methods and tools designed to facilitate evaluation of the project. The objective is to reduce environmental impact through transition to a non-toxic, resourceefficient closed-loop system and minimisation of overproduction, reduced reliance on nonrenewable raw materials, increased competitiveness for the Swedish textile and fashion industry, and new business ideas and sustainable business models for a circular economy. This reinforces the protection of human health and the environment.
Contents
Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
1. Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1.1 Current status . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1.2. Issue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1.3. The Government mandate . . . . . . . . . . 4 2. Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3. Vision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4. Objective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4.1. Target audience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4.2. Target areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4.3. Strategies and strategic objectives 2018–2022 .
7
4.4. Operative objectives 2018–2019 . . . . . . . 8 4.5. Anticipated results and outcomes . . . . . . . 9 5. Building the platform . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 5.1. Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 5.2. Infrastructure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 5.3. The See-Do-Learn perspective . . . . . . . 10 5.4. The areas of knowledge . . . . . . . . . . 11 6. The platform’s activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 6.1. Magnet and matchmaker . . . . . . . . . . 12 6.2. Toolbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 6.3. See-Do-Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
6.4. The areas of knowledge . . . . . . . . . . 14 6.5. The progress model . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 7. Organisation, consortium . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 7.1. Organisational structure . . . . . . . . . .
15
7.2. Roles and responsibilities . . . . . . . . . . 15 7.3. Steering group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 7.4. Partners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 7.5. International players identified . . . . . . . . 17 8. Information, communication and reporting . . . . 17 9. Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 10. Quality assurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 11. Risk management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
6
1. Background 1.1 Current status It is now well known that the textile and fashion sectors account for a signification proportion of issues relating to resource efficiency and the environment, and that production, transportation and consumption must shift to more sustainable systems and patterns. The Swedish Government has commissioned the University of Borås [1] to establish a platform for sustainable fashion and textiles and provides a broad outline of this issue, together with the commission to establish such a platform. The platform shall build on and work for collaboration between players in the entire value chain, who have been working with sustainable fashion and textiles. As the University of Borås already takes on the role as national arena for circular fashion and sustainable textiles [2], it is therefore appropriate to develop a platform for such collaboration there. The Swedish Environmental Protection Agency has demonstrated how the production and consumption of textiles can be linked to the global sustainable development goals and to the national environmental targets, like the generational goal to hand over to the next generation a society in which the major environmental problems in Sweden have been solved and eco-cycles are resourceefficient and as far as possible free from hazardous substances [3].
1.2. Issue There is a growing awareness of the need to convert to a more sustainable society, also in the textile sector. Yet companies, in particular small and medium-sized enterprises (SME), require resources and knowledge-building
for this purpose. Skills must be nurtured regarding choice of materials, use of chemicals, effective business models and current developments in the field, as well as regarding methods of obtaining information about such developments. Innovation skills and executive capacity must be reinforced and affiliation to relevant networks encouraged. Insight into organisational changes and novel financing models may also be required.
1.3. The Government commission The University of Borås is currently developing a regional platform, Body & Space, for circular fashion and sustainable interiors. The Government commission states that this is to be developed into a national platform for sustainable fashion and textiles. It shall also have an international outlook. Key elements of the platform’s activities therefore involve promoting collaboration and interaction between different players in support of sustainability throughout the textile value chain, and gaining assistance to utilise training, research and innovation. The commission also highlights opportunities for developing new, sustainable business models and minimising the sector’s use of chemicals hazardous to health and the environment. Among other objectives, the platform shall contribute to meeting the goals of the 2030 Agenda [4] as they apply to the textile sector, and ensure that Swedish enterprises in this field improve their competitiveness and will be considered pioneers in sustainability and circular economy in an international perspective.
PLATS FÖR RUBRIK 7
“Innovative prototypes, products and services for a sustainable world”
8
2. Purpose The objective is to establish a national arena for sustainable fashion and textiles, which contributes to harmonizing people’s needs and values with environmental consideration and sound resource efficiency. At this stage, a platform will be built, which positions Sweden at the cutting edge in developing the textile and fashion sector toward sustainability and circular economy.
In these ways, the platform will also strive to meet domestic environmental targets and the 2030 Agenda goals as they apply to textiles and fashion. Working alongside relevant stakeholders from industry, academia, institutes and the public sector, the platform will encourage and coordinate training, research and innovation with the aim of supporting environmentally sustainable development. Focus areas include the development of new business models, elimination of substances that are hazardous to health and the environment from production and other activities, improving energy efficiency in the sector and generally facilitating the transition to a circular economy, i.e. models resulting in material cycles, rather than linear processes ending in some form of disposal.
The underlying Government commission [1] assigns the following tasks to the platform: •
•
• •
•
To promote collaboration, partnership and measures for an environmentally sustainable value chain in the textile sector. To make research and development findings on environmentally sustainable development accessible and constitute a bridge between research and application. To promote sustainable business models and combine environmental and business benefit. To reinforce the work of small and medium-sized enterprises toward achieving a circular flow and environmentally sustainable development. To minimise environmental impact during production.
The objective is to create circular eco-cycles for the textile and fashion sector, as shown in figure 1.
Design of materials Raw material
Production of material Design of products
RE
design production
Residual waste
Distribution Consumption
Figure 1 Circular life cycle for the textile and fashion sector, from a value chain perspective.
Produce products
cycling
9
Rather than devising ideas on traditional lines, the focus is on a user-centred innovation process where situations and environments are observed, and design samples and prototypes are developed and visualised, so that ideas and concepts can be evaluated with the users. This takes places through See-Do-Learn sequences, which are described in more detail in section 5.3. In order for such a platform to be effective, three qualities are required above all:
• The ability to attract a wide range of stakeholders (magnet).
The platform must have the capacity and resources required to attract stakeholders, to ensure they can benefit from the platform and each other and get help in implementing new methods and modifying value chains. The platform must thereby also build mutual trust in order to enable such collaboration.
• The ability to identify synergies and connect stakeholders (matchmaker).
Bringing different players together, such as manufacturers, consumers, business, etc., and thereby identifying potential synergy constellations and collaboration opportunities, is a key task for the platform. This approach enables parties to mutually operate as catalysts for value creation as well as to implement and evaluate new techniques and methods.
• Access to a toolbox.
The toolbox can consist of infrastructure with digital tools, which in a straightforward way facilitates communication and interaction between different participants via the platform.
10
11
3. Vision
The platform for sustainable fashion and textiles is an effective resource in support of companies’ conversion to a circular economy, and for the sector it forms the natural hub of knowledge and collaboration, giving Sweden a leading role in sustainability and the environment. Within five years, Sweden will be regarded as a pioneering nation in the field of sustainable textiles and fashion. Many companies, both large and several small and medium-sized enterprises in the nation’s textile and fashion sector, have adopted methods and objectives for a circular economy and are en route towards completing this transition. At the same time, the goals of the 2030 Agenda and domestic environmental targets are gradually being achieved. The national platform for sustainable fashion and textiles is considered to be the relevant hub of knowledge and collaboration on sustainability within the sector. In the long term, the aim is for the entire sector to undergo the transition to a circular economy and sustainable solutions, which do not drain the planet’s finite resources significantly. The platform continues to develop and transfer knowledge and methods for continuous improvement within the sector.
12
4. Objective 4.1. Target audience The target audience for the national platform is broad, spanning industry, politics, institutes, academia and society, including consumers. The primary target audience for the project comprises existing small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) with links to textiles and fashion. Moreover, stakeholders, such as decision-makers, authorities and public sector purchasers, play an important role from a decision-making and legislative perspective. Institutes, NGOs, universities and colleges combine to form the next target audience
category. Consumers and influencers are another key target audience, while the final and particularly important group is made up of students, the decision-makers of the future. How the target audience can be categorised with relationships between its various layers is outlined in figure 2. The figure shows how impulses and results from the platform generate interest and create a ripple effect across the different categories.
GO
e SME as h c n-ma r kers / Authorities / Public pu
s/U tio niversit ies and other Higher Educa
ta n Es
Consumers / Influencers
Students w - The decision-makers of tomorro
hm
/N
i sio
rs
D
I n s t ut ti
es
ec
e n ts
Figure 2 Target groups, categorized, with their different layers.
b li
s
13
4.2. Target areas
The overall objective of the national platform for sustainable fashion and textiles is to position Sweden as a world-leading partner and role model for a circular economy, with a minimal carbon footprint attributable to textiles and fashion. In addition to the commission and vision, the process of drawing up strategies and objectives for the platform was based on the following internal and external issues: •
What is required to become an attractive, inspirational national platform, which can operate as a role model within circular economy?
•
What is required in order for small and medium-sized enterprises to test sustainable, circular business models?
•
What is required to build a bridge between research and development and make findings accessible, in order to create innovation and get results?
•
How can we increase collaboration between participants, right across the value chain?
•
How can we by collaboration create preconditions for reducing environmental impact in production?
The selected target areas and strategies are outlined in this document. They are based on the commission, the ‘Body & Space platform for circular fashion and sustainable interiors’, the vision and the above issues. This implies two principal concepts for the platform’s activities, See-Do-Learn and areas of knowledge. See-Do-Learn, which is described in more detail in Section 5.3, comprises the platform’s various resources and tools for eliciting interest and increasing knowledge and expertise within the sector, to enable innovation by idea generation, development, prototyping, testing and evaluation, and to assist in business model development. The areas of knowledge, which are described in more detail in Section 5.4, form the basis of these activities by monitoring and analysing the surrounding world, keeping track of research and development, and providing knowledge to the See-Do-Learn units.
14
4.3. Strategies and strategic objectives 2018–2022 By the end of the development period, the platform shall be equipped to meet inter alia the following strategic objectives: •
•
• • • • • •
•
An attractive, well-known collaborative platform, as a forum for meeting and an aligning force between research and the application of a circular economy. The sector’s companies and organisations shall receive relevant information on how to contribute to a more sustainable textile and fashion industry, taking the 2030 Agenda goals and Swedish environmental targets into account. Effective collaboration between participants along the entire value chain of textiles and fashion. Generating ideas for projects and for proposals on financing. Raising the profile of Swedish research and development findings on the international stage. Making research and development findings available for evaluation and application. Tested sustainable, circular business models, which create business benefit. Results and knowledge, which contribute to wellinformed decisions and policies for reducing environmental impact in the textile and fashion industry. Methods for continual identification of barriers to and solutions for a sustainable textile and fashion industry.
The strategy of the national platform for sustainable fashion and textiles involves operating as a catalyst and enabler for sustainability. Players from both Sweden and overseas
look to the platform to be inspired, exchange contacts and learn how to enable sustainable growth. In order for an entire industry to undergo this transition, there must be a forum where it can meet and exchange experiences and knowledge. The platform will provide this forum. Through expert knowledge about current research, we will create and develop an arena which connects academia, research and industry. The platform aims to stimulate collaboration between partners along the value chain, in order to implement sustainable, circular design and business strategies in the textile and fashion industry. The platform serves as a bridge between research, training and application, connecting participants through networks of knowledge, learning and action. The ambition is to establish the design of a circular value chain as best practice, to be applied as a strategic tool for textile and fashion companies in their business development processes, with the aim of creating profitable circular flows. Sustainable, circular business models, providing business and environmental benefits, will be tested through the platform. Moreover, the platform will create conditions for the implementation of these new business models. Joint initiatives will be strengthened, both domestically and internationally, en route to a circular, bio-based economy which safeguards and enhances the environment. Our work creates conditions for a society which generates growth through sustainable means within the limitations of the planet.
15
Outstanding, interesting research and development findings in the field of circular economy and sustainability will be highlighted in a way that attracts and develops participants along the entire value chain. The results will be shared both domestically and internationally for the benefit of the global textile and fashion industry. In order to meet our considerable societal challenges and make Sweden more competitive, there must be greater cooperation between universities, industry and society in a broad sense. The platform will demonstrate tools and methods for feasible sustainable production and circular business models. Carefully composed groups, based on expertise, geographical distribution and opportunities for collaboration, create a dynamic drive towards a sustainable textile and fashion industry, both nationally and internationally.
•
An international conference, ‘Design for Textile Futures’, in accordance with 6.1.
•
A ‘Big Do’ activity, according to 6.1.
•
Three ‘Exposé’ exhibition concepts, according to 6.1.
•
Developed DO-Tank as a forum for innovation management and prototyping.
•
A minimum of 15 companies that have tested the ‘Progress’ model, in accordance with 6.5.
The areas of knowledge •
Analysis of the global goals in relation to the textile and fashion industry.
•
An elaborate structure for collaboration with authorities and financiers.
The platform will provide an attractive, inspiring meeting place for participants looking to support Sweden’s leading the way in the transition to a sustainable textile and fashion sector.
•
Structures and methods for business intelligence.
•
Established knowledge groups in order to stocktake expertise, initiatives and projects in progress.
•
At least five projects initiated within the knowledge groups
4.4. Operative objectives 2018–2019
•
At least five examples to highlight in the See function.
The platform’s two main concepts, See-Do-Learn and the areas of knowledge, have the following objectives for their activities.
Results and tangible examples will be shown and distributed nationally and internationally. The platform will also operate as a catalyst, facilitator and accelerator for sustainable development in the textile and fashion sector and its value chains. Work undertaken via the platform will contribute to meeting domestic environmental quality objectives and the Sustainable Development Goals in the 2030 Agenda. Particular attention is focused on the many small and medium-sized enterprises.
See-Do-Learn •
Structured, visible communication through website, social media and other channels.
•
A helpdesk with support service.
•
Four ‘Textile Challenge’ seminars and projects, in accordance with 6.1.
16
4.5. Anticipated results and impact In accordance with the platform’s operative targets and the aforementioned strategic objectives, expected tangible results and impact to be achieved by the platform are summarized here. Performance indicators will be drawn up at the outset in order to track the progress made in each area. • •
•
New, innovative and consumer-oriented business ideas, based on reuse, redesign and service development. Multiple manufacturing processes and business models, which promote a sustainable circular economy and lead to new business opportunities for the textile and fashion sector. New business opportunities which create conditions for greater competitiveness and growth for the Swedish textile and fashion industry. Less reliance on non-renewable raw materials and the insight that value can be created through other means than material consumption.
•
Greater insight and traceability throughout the textile and clothing value chain.
•
Minimisation of overproduction.
•
Bridging the gap between actual knowledge and consumers’ perception and behaviour. This creates conditions for more sustainable consumption of textiles and fashion.
•
A transition to a non-toxic, resource-efficient eco-cycle in a sustainable circular economy, leading to reduced environmental impact.
•
Greater collaboration around eco-labelling and green procurement.
•
Contributions to meeting the 2030 Agenda goals, especially goals 17 (overall), 6, 8, 9, 12 and 13.
18
5. Building the platform 5.1. Overview As described in the previous section relating to its purpose, the platform must provide resources to elicit interest from a number of relevant players and effectively bring them together in order to stimulate collaboration. It must also have access to a toolbox. This requires an infrastructure, which includes meeting places in real environments at key strategic locations in the country, as well as in digital environments, thus showrooms and meeting rooms as well as interactive websites and online services, excellent resources for information, training and marketing and an effective strategy for the platform’s role and approach. The role of the platform can be illustrated by an iterative three-step model: See-Do-Learn. The model provides a perspective, which is fundamental to the platform and appears in its every component.
See refers to raising awareness about the business benefits associated with sustainable development and circular processes. Do is concerned with the realisation of an idea through the development of prototypes and opportunities to demonstrate functionality, etc., which underline the realism of an eco-cycle based project. Learn refers to training and enhancing skills within the field. Three main areas of knowledge are considered to be of particular interest in relation to the platform’s activities. • Materials, chemistry and recycling • Product design, production and technology • Business models and consumption The platform’s model shows the relationship between See-Do-Learn and the three thematic areas of knowledge from a design and system perspective, according to figure 3.
perspective System al teri Ma
/ Chemistry / Recyc ling
See Pr o d n
ons
od
ti o
e ls
uc Figure 3 The platform model and the relationship between its elements.
/C
ro d
rn
Do
Lea
u m pt
ion
u c t de si gn / P
/T ec
hn
olo
gy
D e sign
B us
p e r s p e c t i ve
s ine
sM
19
5.2. Infrastructure The platform will consist of physical, digital and virtual components. There must be access to meeting-places in real and digital environments, such as showrooms and meeting rooms, interactive websites and online services and resources for information, training and marketing. The so-called Do-tank, which forms part of the Do concept (See-Do-Learn), plays a key role. It was partially developed by a number of partners in the regional Body & Space programme, and also utilizes existing laboratory resources for e.g. fibres, knitwear, weaving, clothing, dyeing and finishing as well as printing and media. Companies can get access to space, equipment and expertise here in order to convert to a sustainable supply chain, comprising design, choice of materials, production, distribution, and business models.
5.3. The See-Do-Learn perspective The platform comprises three areas, SEE, DO and LEARN, which are described as follows: See – proactive communication is an essential element of the platform. Communication enables and drives interest in and awareness of the other areas of the platform and is also an important means of influencing target audiences regarding sustainability and circular economy. Communication will also transfer knowledge within the platform and ensure learning, both internally within the project and in dialogue with financiers, target audiences and stakeholders. Do – the opportunity to develop new business models through innovation, design and prototyping. This is the executive part of the platform, which carries out activities alongside project-specific partners, who in the short and long term support companies and other stakeholders on issues relating to sustainable textiles and fashion through a circular economy. It will function as a catalyst for development in this direction as well as actively pave the way for and accelerate the process. New ideas have an opportunity here to be realised and carried out. The aim is to move from the idea stage via design to testing, demo and prototyping concepts, which relate to circular business.
Learn – coordinating and providing access to experience and expertise. This is the knowledge bank and educational part of the platform. The challenge is to move from an object-focused linear economy to a function-focused circular economy. In future, resources will be considered borrowed material, where the functions are owned. This may for example mean shifting from selling objects to selling functions. Greater knowledge about circular economy and associated business opportunities will create conditions for the target audience to implement such knowledge through, say, business model innovation or innovation involving products, services or other solutions. This will create a platform for the transition to a circular and sustainable economy, aligned with climate goals.
20
5.4. The areas of knowledge In order to satisfy the commission and the objectives of the Swedish textile and fashion industry becoming a national and international role model in sustainable textiles and fashion and to establish a national platform, it is important to adopt a number of perspectives with a view to collaborative activities and knowledge-building. We have identified three areas of knowledge: •
Materials, chemistry and recycling
•
Product design, production and technology
•
Business models and consumption
These areas were chosen in order to span the textile value chain, in which all participants should feel they play a role. The global Sustainable Development Goals and the Swedish environmental targets, prioritised by the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency for textiles and fashion, are in focus. The areas of knowledge create opportunities for future collaboration and working in greater depth with multiple participants. In order to connect the areas, the system and design perspectives cut across like interconnected threads, creating a textile and fashion industry within the planet’s limitations.
Materials, chemistry and recycling
Product and design
Brand and transparency
Materials and chemistry
The three thematic areas of knowledge are related to the steps in the value chain shown in figure 4. Through expert knowledge about current research, we will create and develop an arena which connects academia, research and industry. Carefully composed groups, based on expertise, geographical distribution and opportunities for collaboration, create a dynamic drive towards a sustainable textile and fashion industry, both nationally and internationally. During the development phase, the global goals are analysed in relation to the textile and fashion industry, and a structure is devised which facilitates cooperation with the authorities and other stakeholders and enables effective business intelligence. In order to raise awareness and generate interest in the platform, information seminars are arranged for companies in different parts of the country, where business intelligence, new findings, challenges and potential activities are presented and discussed.
Product design, production and technology
Production
Figure 4 Thematic areas of knowledge from a value chain perspective.
Business models and consumption
Retailers and distribution
Use/ consumption
Recycling
21
6. The platform’s activities Activities are planned in line with the different dimensions described above. This includes the properties of the platform, operating as a magnet, matchmaker and toolbox, the See-Do-Learn model and the three defined areas of knowledge. The first dimension is vital, since it defines the platform’s activities in relation to both See-Do-Learn and the areas of knowledge. Design is considered to be a key factor, which determines the sustainability of products and systems through composition, choice of materials, range of applications and redesign potential. Every part of the platform must integrate through a system perspective.
2018
2019
1. Textile Challenges Product and design Brand and transparency Materials and chemistry Production Distribution and retailers Use and consumption Recycling 2. Design for Textile Futures 3. Big Do 4. Exposé
Figure 5 Overview of schedule for major events in See.
6.1. Magnet and matchmaker There are four regular public activities, which are central to the platform: Textile Challenge, Big Do, Design for Textile Futures and Exposé. The figure below illustrates the approximate time for the different activities to take place.
2020
2021
2022
2023
22
At each Textile Challenge – of which there are seven in total throughout the period – the challenges faced by the textile and fashion industry in order to meet the 2030 Agenda goals are presented and discussed. Each Textile Challenge begins with a seminar and addresses one of the areas of knowledge. The seminar results in the clarification of the 2030 Agenda goals and must include proposals on feasible projects and challenges in accordance with the objectives agreed. The speakers and participants invited should represent different parts of the value chain, including designers, researchers and experts in particular subjects and industries. At each Textile Challenge, a challenge is presented. This challenge is based on the theme of the seminar and is expected to result in a project. It is estimated to take around two years to complete. Three international conferences, ‘Design for Textile Futures’, will adopt a broader perspective than the Textile Challenge seminars, addressing general issues, relating to sustainable fashion and textiles and being of interest to the textile and fashion industry as a whole. The challenges to be tackled during the ‘Big Do’ events, which take place about six months later, will be announced at these conferences. In the late summer of 2019, 2021 and 2023, before the students begin their studies, a Big Do event will be held at the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås. The event invites visionaries from the textile and fashion industry to utilise the infrastructure available at the Swedish School of Textiles for one week, in order to create prototypes and thereby stimulate visionary designs and other related activities, which dovetail with the objectives of the platform.
‘Exposé’ is a design-driven public exhibition concept within the scope of the platform, which aims to feature and make accessible visionary examples of problem solving, best practices and trends in the circular, sustainable textile sector and associated research. A spirit of openness and the will to experiment and exchange knowledge are key elements of the Exposé concept. The themes which should be covered by the exhibitions, labelled as hashtags, include: #Imagination, #Agency, #Essentials, #Tech, #Care, #Reuse, #Fairness and #No Waste. The themes of the exhibitions can be associated with the platform’s other activities (Textile Challenge, Design for Textile Futures and Big Do), and highlight international role models in the textile value chain. Exposé takes place at up to three physical exhibition venues nationwide (in Umeå, Borås and Stockholm) and a mobile exhibition, which could call in at the Stockholm Furniture Fair or Stockholm Fashion Week, as well as at conferences and other international events. A digital part may also be linked to a helpdesk, as described below. Besides these events, a helpdesk and support facility will be constantly available in order to provide guidance and information on issues relating to sustainable textiles. It is a contact hub with a unique capacity to communicate with and bring together industry, academia and individuals. The objective is to combine good initiatives, spread knowledge and information, identify key issues and problematic areas and make suggestions for improvements. Information obtained on, say, technical problems, material development, design or user preferences is of great value during planning and development work for both the platform and other organisations.
23
6.2. Toolbox There are a number of tools available in order to analyse and measure progress towards greater sustainability. The Higg Index is a relatively well established self-assessment model, devised by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) to evaluate sustainability in value chains for shoes, textiles and clothing. The tool spans the entire value chain and also assesses whether a product is compatible with a circular flow. The national coordinator of environmental targets for the Swedish enterprises has compiled quick reference guides for enterprises [5, 6] looking to embark upon structured environmental management. These tools will also be developed further and adapted to the textile and fashion sector, using inter alia the Higg Index. Individual analyses of companies and value chains with respect to a sustainable circular economy will also be carried out. This involves drawing up process maps together with every company. Suitable tools, such as the Global Reporting Initiative’s Materiality Disclosure Service [7] and the Higg Index, will be used as the basis of this process analysis. This will demonstrate the current status, an analysis on how to get the best results and a desired future outcome. The desired outcome shall aim at a system change with a pledge to increase commitment towards converting from a linear to a sustainable circular model. The map accompanies the enterprise throughout the transformation, indicating how it can reach its goals simply and effectively. The model is described in more detail in Section 6.5, below.
6.3. See-Do-Learn The See-Do-Learn model can be considered to be part of the toolbox, in which a range of activities, including those mentioned under 6.1, above, will lead to insight into how and why a more sustainable business is to be developed.
‘See’ includes business intelligence, transfer of research findings and best practices, interaction with the areas of knowledge and various information initiatives in the form of seminars, websites and online services, publications and conference talks. ‘Do’ is centred in the so-called DO-tank, which is utilised jointly with the Body & Space platform. It is a matter of realising ideas and ‘challenges’ by enabling prototyping, testing and evaluation, demonstration objects and other phases of development en route towards sustainable products and circular business activities. The DO-tank provides access to laboratory resources for fibres, knitwear, weaving, clothing, dyeing and finishing, print and media, recycling, e-commerce and IT support. Companies can get access to space, equipment and expertise here in order to convert to a sustainable supply chain, comprising design, choice of materials, production, distribution and development of their business model. Equipment and resources may be found at a number of locations and partners associated with the platform. ‘Learn’ refers to the learning generated by the platform and participants of the project, the DO-tank, the seminars and various forms of collaboration. Such learning takes place continually during the process and is also shared through technology transfer via the platform’s information channels, via scientific publications and meetings and via standardisation, training and participation in courses.
24
25
6.4. The areas of knowledge The areas of knowledge are intended to serve as idea generators, enablers and catalysts for projects, in which the textile value chain collaborates on the implementation of sustainable circular design, technology and business strategies in the textile and fashion industry. Together with See-Do-Learn, the areas of knowledge will provide inspiration and contribute to skills development and training for the platform’s stakeholders. New, attractive offers to customers in line with the Sustainable Development Goals are created through collaborative projects, initiated between academia, research, authorities, industry and other relevant organisations. We continually perform business intelligence, also by highlighting interesting research and innovation, relevant initiatives and projects in the field. Knowledge groups comprise five or six representatives, led by a group manager. The representatives have various skillsets, where one represents the design perspective, one the system perspective and the others possess expertise in the specific area of knowledge. It is anticipated that each knowledge group will hold regular meetings, with all groups meeting jointly about once a quarter.
26
6.5. The progress model The progress made and the results of the work towards meeting the global goals is visualized in a process map, in which the three thematic areas of knowledge are developed in projects that are based on a Textile Challenge scheme. The process map is used as a tool and guide for enterprises. The model charts their progress through results from the Textile Challenge and other projects towards the realisation of a sustainable circular economy. The process map, which has four schematic stages, is shown in the figure below: 1.
Challenge taken on
2.
Challenge in progress
3.
Challenge assessed
4.
Challenge implemented
Challenge taken on
Challenge in process
Material Chemistry Recycling
Product design Technology Production
Business models Consumption
Figure 6 Process map, which shows the described model, in which the progression of participants can be indicated.
Challenge assessed
Challenge implemented
27
7. 7. Organisation, consortium 7.1. Organisational structure The organisation will consist of platform management, a steering group, an international advisory group and all stakeholders.
The coordinators’ responsibilities span See-Do-Learn and the areas of knowledge, where they operate as supervisors, convene meetings and oversee reporting of the platform’s progress.
7.2. Roles and responsibilities
The organisation will consist of the following:
One of the administrative cornerstones, the management unit ensures that the platform and its activities are carried out according to plan. The platform will be overseen by a platform manager and two coordinators. Together with three group leaders, they constitute the platform management and have the principal responsibility for day-to-day operations. This includes management and responsibility for the platform and its different activities, administration, reporting, follow-up and ongoing evaluation. The platform manager has the ultimate responsibility and convenes meetings of the steering group.
•
One platform manager
•
Two coordinators
•
Three group managers, one for each knowledge group
•
A communicator
•
An economist
•
Group participants from various main partners.
Steering group
The platform will exert close collaboration and shared use of resources with the Body & Space platform.
Operational organisation
Stakeholders
Platform leader See-Do-Learn Coordinator
Do
See
Learn
The role of the platform as an arena Contacts with enterprises, authorities and other stakeholders
Knowledge areas Coordinator
Utilized jointly with the Body & Space platform
Material / Chemistry / Recycling Group manager 1 Product design / Production / Technology Group manager 2
Business models / Consumption Group manager 3
International advisory group
28
7.3. Steering group
7.4. Partners
The platform’s steering group will be tasked with ensuring that the purpose, objectives and strategies of the platform are achieved, quality criteria, regulations and laws are adhered to and deviations from, for example, schedules and budgets are dealt with appropriately. The steering group will play an active role in tracking the activities and results of the project as well as follow-up and evaluation. The following organisations have been identified as suitable for inclusion in the steering group:
A number of organisations have been identified as potential partners in the development of the platform and activities, providing resources and expertise. This may entail participation in the areas of knowledge and associated groups and key roles in the See-Do-Learn model, including important resources in the DO-tank’s activities. •
TEKO – the Swedish trade and employers’ association for companies working in the textile and fashion industry (chair).
TEKO – the Swedish trade and employers’ association for companies working in the textile and fashion industry.
•
Svensk Handel (Swedish Trade Federation)
•
The Swedish Fashion Council
•
Smart Textiles/Science Park Borås
•
Stockholm Fashion District
•
Science Park Borås
•
Marketplace Borås
•
The University of Borås
•
The Swedish Institute
•
Fashion companies
•
Visit Sweden
•
Textile companies – IKEA of Sweden
•
RISE (including the former Swerea IVF)
•
The Swedish Fashion Council
•
Wargön Innovation
•
Södra Älvsborg Hospital
•
RISE (including the former Swerea IVF)
•
Chalmers University of Technology
•
We intend to collaborate with the following academic institutions in particular: • Umeå University •
KTH Royal Institute of Technology
•
Chalmers University of Technology
•
Lund University
•
Malmö University
We will pursue close dialogue with the following authorities: • The Swedish Environmental Protection Agency •
The Swedish Chemicals Agency
•
The Swedish Consumer Agency
29
7.5. International players identified It is proposed for a number of influential international players to be included in the network for consultation on issues regarding the areas of knowledge and the platform’s activities. A selection of such organisations appear below: •
ECAP
•
WRAP
•
SAC
•
Fashion for Good
•
Fashion Revolution
•
The Ellen McArthur Foundation
•
Made by
•
Circle Economy
•
Global Fashion Agenda
•
Euratex
•
ETP-FTC (The European Technology Platform)
•
Autex
•
Textranet
•
Regiotex
30
8. Information, communication and reporting A more detailed communication plan will be compiled, in order to provide information and exchange experience regarding the platform’s development phase and to help setting it up. The aim is for the platform to elicit considerable interest from a wide range of target audiences among enterprises, trade associations, training and research bodies, relevant authorities and other public sector bodies. Traditional channels will be utilised in order to provide information about the platform and its development,
including websites, social media, notices and articles in relevant periodicals and printed information material. A report about the purpose, formation and anticipated direction of the platform will also be published towards the end of the development phase. When the platform is ready to be put into operation, a number of workshops and seminars will be arranged, as foreseen in Section 5.4.
9. Time schedule 2018 ID 1
Activity
2020
2021
2022
2023
Development phase
2
Start-up
3
Quality plan
4
Risk analysis
5
Communication plan
6
Assembling knowledge groups
7
Develop the work within the knowledge groups
8
Developing the See concept
9
Developing the Do concept
10
Adapting the DO tank
11
Developing the Learn concept
12
2019
Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4 Qtr1 Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4 Qtr1 Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4 Qtr1 Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4 Qtr1 Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4 Qtr1 Qtr2 Qtr3 Qtr4
Info seminars
13
Operational phase
14
Textile Challenges
15
Product and design
16
Brand and transparency
17
Material and chemistry
18
Production
19
Distribution and retailers
20
Use and consumption
21
Recycling
22
Enterprises’ work with challenges
23
Design for Textile Futures
24
1
25
2
26
3
27
Big Do
28
1
29
2
30
3
31
ExposĂŠ (9 events)
32
Meetings of knowledge groups
04-11 04-15 04-13 08-15 08-15 08-15
31
10. Quality assurance As the platform is developed, a quality policy will be defined and a quality assurance system drawn up, with the aim of ensuring that the platform operates in accordance with best practice, with impartiality, effective document management, satisfactory IT security, adequate skills development and
procedures for continous improvement. It is not anticipated that certification of such a system will be required; however, procedures for deviation management, auditing, etc., will be drawn up.
11. Risk management Carrying out projects is always associated with various types of risks, which must be identified, assessed and controlled. A risk analysis will be carried out, when the project begins, in order to demonstrate how the risks identified are to be managed.
•
Effective communication, including risk communication.
•
Backup and redundancy at critical junctures.
•
Consistent follow-up of events and financial results.
•
Adequate quality assurance.
Examples of risks include the following:
•
Preparedness for conflict management.
•
Utilising feedback from stakeholders.
•
Key individuals leave or cannot be recruited.
•
Time schedule unrealistic.
•
Budget unrealistic.
•
There is less interest than anticipated.
•
The targets set are not achieved.
•
The DO-tank does not satisfy requirements.
•
IT security and confidentiality.
•
The objectives are incomplete.
•
The target audience has no interest or rejects methods.
•
The target audience does not complete the project (challenges).
•
The target audience has unrealistic expectations.
•
Conflict with the target audience.
•
The level of innovation is too low.
•
The toolbox is incomplete.
•
Quality issues in the platform’s activities.
The risk management is primarily based on project management and participants being aware of the main risks associated with the venture. Examples of requirements with regard to risk management include: •
Clearly defined areas of responsibility.
•
Securing expertise when carrying out different stages of the project.
32
12. Budget, financial plan 2018
2019
2020
2021
2022
Total
Platform management and See-Do-Learn
2 550 000
3 150 000
2 800 000
3 150 000
3 150 000
14 800 000
Knowledge areas
3 700 000
3 700 000
4 000 000
3 300 000
3 300 000
18 000 000
Communication
1 600 000
1 000 000
1 000 000
1 400 000
1 400 000
6 400 000
150 000
150 000
200 000
150 000
150 000
800 000
8 000 000
8 000 000
8 000 000
8 000 000
8 000 000
40 000 000
12 000 000
12 000 000
12 000 000
National platform for sustainable fashion and textiles
Other costs Total Other financing, directly attributable to the platform and the DO tank Body & Space, Re:textile, etc.
Contact Björn Brorström, Vice-Chancellor University of Borås, bjorn.brorstrom@hb.se Erik Bresky, CEO Science Park Borås, erik.bresky@hb.se Susanne Nejderås, Managing Director Smart Textiles, susanne.nejderas@hb.se
Websites www.hb.se www.hb.se/textilhogskolan www.scienceparkboras.se www.smarttextiles.se
33
13. References [1]
Swedish Government, Commission to establish a platform for sustainable fashion and sustainable textiles (in Swedish), 12/04/2018
[2] Nejderås, S. et al., Arenan för cirkulärt mode och hållbar textil (The Arena for circular fashion and sustainable textiles, in Swedish), Science Park, Borås, 2018 [3] Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, communication NV-06147-14, Förslag om hantering av textilier – redovisning av regeringsuppdrag (Proposal on the management of textiles - report of a government assignment, in Swedish), 2016 (www.naturvardsverket.se/upload/miljoarbete-i-samhallet/miljoarbete-i-sverige/regeringsuppdrag/2016/ redovisade/redovisning-regeringsuppdrag-hantering-textilier-2016-09-26.pdf, retrieved 15/09/2018) [4] 2030 Agenda, Transforming our world: the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, Resolution adopted by the General Assembly on 25 September 2015, United Nations A/RES/70/1.
(www.un.org/ga/search/view_doc.asp?symbol=A/RES/70/1&Lang=E, retrieved. 18/09/2018)
[5] Att påbörja ett strukturerat miljöarbete i handelsföretag
(To start structured environmental work in trading enterprises, in Swedish), 2016 (sverigesmiljomal.se/ contentassets/4704d703d58b4496b109bf1c7ffc9180/lathund-handelsforetag.pdf, retrieved 13/09/2018)
[6] Att påbörja ett strukturerat miljöarbete i tjänsteföretag
(To start structured environmental work in service enterprises, in Swedish), 2016 (sverigesmiljomal.se/ contentassets/4704d703d58b4496b109bf1c7ffc9180/lathund-tjansteforetag.pdf, retrieved 13/09/2018)
[7] GRI 301, Materials, 2016, GRI Standards, Amsterdam
(www.globalreporting.org/standards/gri-standards-download-center/?g=55a07ddd-435e-47c3-b3ff- 08a95b989cac, retrieved 13/09/2018)