GMT Africa 07

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AFRICA GMT AFRICA NO 7 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES AFRICA EDITION I Q1 2023 I ENGLISH & FRENCH I USD 12.–Purnell Ballon d’Or™ 2022 - Unique Piece New Models 10 Watches for vacation time Saga Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Interviews George Kern (Breitling) Carine Maillard (GPHG) Candide Johnson (Gaia Club) Biodun Ajidahun (HNZ) Luc Pettavino (OnlyWatch) Chloe Olumide (TLC) GPHG 2022 How the Grand Prix is shaping up

THE ART OF FUSION

SQUARE BANG UNICO

18K King Gold and black ceramic case. In-house UNICO chronograph movement.

Transcorp Hilton Hotel Abuja, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi St Tel. +234 9 291 4615 • abuja@hublot-boutique.com
BOUTIQUE
ABUJA
4 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES CBN2A1F-FC6492_Porsche_420x297mm_boutique_PSO-CoatedV3.indd 1
GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 5 10.05.22 09:18 WBP201BBA0632_Aquaracer_men_free-diving_ADV_PRINT_210x297mm_boutique.indd 1 20.07.21 09:54

Fostering Community

This edition of GMT Africa marks yet another milestone in our quest to bring the world of watches and watchmaking closer to our readers in the region. Through this exciting and challenging journey we have met, engaged and partnered a variety of stakeholders in the luxury industry and one thing is common across all conversations - a passion for the industry and the need for more collaborations.

Our ultimate goal is to bring together watch lovers, aficionados and brands into a thriving, engaging community where they can turn ideas into mutually beneficial programs and ventures. We want to give a voice to those who drive innovation and whose contribution but would typically go unnoticed. While our primary medium is through the print magazine we are quickly developing our online platforms whilst encouraging and supporting the formation of watch clubs across Africa. Furthering our community drive we spotlight three leading business women in Nigeria and the Access bank Polo tournament held in London. Our cover story features the radically innovative independent watchmaker- PURNELL, a young brand, ultra-premium, with amazing watches, amazing aesthetics, amazing movements, taking over the time partnership with A.S. MONACO, sponsors of the recently concluded BALLON D’OR, and I believe they also have individual players as part of their brand ambassadors, very much keying into football. Sports and watches have always been associated. If we look back, we always had watch and motor racing, then we had watch and golf, then we had watch and tennis,

though they are still going strong, today we see a big move to watch and football, which was very much pioneered by Hublot. They were very much at the forefront of this seismic move, and that’s why Hublot are the time partners of the FIFA WORLD CUP.

Lastly, We invite our readers to join the growing GMT Africa community and share their views across all our platforms. Have an amazing read

8 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GPHG p.26 PURNELL p.20
Publisher Q1 2023
D EREMI AJIDAHUN I Publisher and Editor-in-Chief daa_live
3 Gana
St, Maitama 904101, Abuja, Nigeria

Sélection

The Art and the Game

Its been an amazing journey for GMT Africa and her super creative team. We have never shied away from pushing the boundaries and continually making our editorial not only relevant to the reader but also pioneering new partnerships and innovative content.

In this edition we explore the world of football and watchmaking coming together as exemplified by Purnell’s breathtaking “Ballon d’Or ‘’ watch, presented to both the male and female winners of the prestigious ballon d’Or football award. We also take you through a preview tour of the GPHG awards - The Oscars of Watchmaking.

Double congratulations to GMT Africa’s publisher, Mr. Ajidahun as he marked his diamond jubilee with expected class and fanfair and also on his nomination to the GPHG 2022 jury. Can’t go without expressing gratitude to our readers, your feedback and support has been our staying power. Enjoy reading.

EDITORS’ PICKS BRICE LECHEVALIER CYRUS p.52 FOCUS p.76
Editorial Q1 2023
53 Gana Street, Maitama, Abuja. Tel: +234 814 000 0265 Instagram: @zakaa_official

Contributors PLUMES

Under the guidance of GMT’s Editor-in-Chief, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

Sous la houlette du rédacteur en chef de GMT, Brice Lechevalier, les contributeurs suivants ont prêté leur plume experte à la réalisation de cette édition suisse, et donc forcément internationale.

MARIE DE PIMODAN

When she’s not out in the field meeting industry players, visiting a Manufacture or discovering a new product, you’ll find this expert watch journalist at GMT Publishing writing an article for the magazine or for WorldTempus. Quand elle n’est pas sur le terrain pour rencontrer les acteurs de l’industrie, visiter une manufacture ou découvrir une nouveauté, vous trouverez cette journaliste experte en horlogerie à la rédaction de GMT Publishing en pleine écriture d’un article pour le magazine ou pour WorldTempus.

DEREMI AJIDAHUN

L’éditeur GMT Africa et le PDG du groupe Hole19 partagent son point de vue et plus de 25 ans d’expérience sur le marché du luxe en Afriques gourmets.

Publisher GMT Africa and CEO Hole19 Group shares his perspective and over 25 years experience in the African luxury market.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

An entrepreneur at heart, the magazine’s founder and Editor-in-Chief is always brimming with new ideas. He nurtures an unbridled passion for watchmaking that he enthusiastically conveys to readers through his insightful articles.

Entrepreneur dans l’âme, le fondateur et rédacteur en chef du magazine a la tête bouillonnante de nouvelles idées. Il voue une passion débordante pour l’horlogerie qu’il transmet avec enthousiasme aux lecteurs à travers ses articles éclairés.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

This experienced watchmaker knows the workings of the watch industry inside out. For GMT, he writes the Test Bench section. The principle? Wear a watch for a week and analyze it from every angle so as to deliver a precise technical and aesthetic assessment. Cet horloger chevronné connaît les rouages de la mécanique horlogère comme sa poche. Pour GMT, il alimente la rubrique Banc d’Essai. Le principe ? Porter une montre pendant une semaine, l’analyser sous toutes ses coutures pour en livrer avec précision le bilan technique et esthétique.

12 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

KUNLE AGBOOLA

Editor for GMT Africa and Zakaa

Living with over a decades experience in the luxury business, He writes about the growing Watch industry in Africa

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE TEIGNER

Homme de terrain et globetrotter qui aime se plonger au cœur des opérations et privilégier l’expérience et l’échange, le Secrétaire général du Fine Watch Club nous livre les dernières news du Club de GMT Magazine et WorldTempus.

A globetrotter and hands-on man of action who loves to immerse himself in the heart of operations and focuses on experience and sharing, the Secretary General of the Fine Watch Club brings us the latest news from the GMT Magazine and WorldTempus watch club.

DAVID CHOKRON

Journaliste spécialisé en horlogerie basé à Paris, David se laisse encore émerveiller et porter par la force, la poésie et l’ingéniosité horlogère. Il privilégie cependant une approche raisonnable et pragmatique en se concentrant sur les questions de qualité technique et d’ergonomie des montres qu’il nous dévoile dans ses articles.

A specialized watch journalist based in Paris, David still finds himself amazed and blown away by the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favors a reasonable and pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles.

AISHA JIBRIN

An experienced member of the GMT Africa editorial team, she writes on luxury lifestyle, events, interviews and community.

DAVID OSADOLOR

An experienced member of the GMT Africa editorial team, he reports on brand events and products.

JORDY BELLIDO

Quand il n’est pas aux manettes pour rédiger des articles ou planifier les publications de WorldTempus, Jordy prête sa plume habile à la rédaction GMT pour dévoiler les dernières nouveautés horlogères. When he’s not involved in writing articles or planning publications for WorldTempus, Jordy skillfully contributes to the GMT editorial team when it comes to unveiling the latest watch models.

ZAKAA, Gana 53, Maitama 901101, Abuja, Nigeria www.hole19group.com +234 8140000264 @zakaa_official
16 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES DOSSIER 26 GPHG Les grands axes du Grand Prix How the Grand Prix is shaping up 90 SAGA Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 62 INTERVIEWS George Kern
Carine Maillard
Johnson
Club)
Ajidahun
Luc Pettavino
Chloe Olumide (TLC) 8-10 EDITORIAL 12-13 CONTRIBUTORS 20 COVER STORY Purnell Ballon d’Or LIFESTYLE 52 PHOTO SHOOT 102 DREAM WATCH 112 ZOOM 138 JET SET 102 52 90 76 Contents SOMMAIRE Q1 2023 GMTAfrica gmtafrica Imprint © La reproduction, même partielle, des textes et photos publiés dans GMT est interdite, sauf autorisation écrite de l’éditeur © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent. Partenaires de diffusion Diffusion partners GMTAfrica gmtafrica Magazine GMT Africa no 7 The magazine of the 12th Art, reflects the spirit of haute horlogerie since the year 2000. Africa Edition from 2018. Printed edition: 15’000 copies in English/French : Publisher & Editor in chief : Deremi Ajidahun daa@karghill.com Administration & Edition : Karghill Publishing Switzerland Directors : Deremi Ajidahun & Bi Feuser-Ajidahun Marketing, distribution & Sales Manager : Aisha Jibrin ads@karghill.com Tel : +234 9 291 4615 Editors : Kunle Agboola Layout : ODA Studio, Abuja Translation : Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (allemand), Transcribe/Susan Jacquet (anglais) Print: Africar GmBH
(Breitling)
(GPHG) Candide
(Gaia
Biodun
(HNZ)
(OnlyWatch)
KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE 10th Anniversary Edition Limited to 10 pieces Ref. 539.506.ZG.A RETAILERS Al Majed Jewelry & Watches – Qatar Bahrain Jewellery Center W.L.L – Kingdom of Bahrain Behbehani Watch World – Kuwait Swiss Promotion Private Limited – India Watch Avenue – United Arab Emirates Bonus Eventus – Exclusive Agent in GCC and Middle East Mob. Ph. 0097158 511 3839 – 0097155 225 5343

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Creation of Legends

Cover Story Purnell

Ballon d’Or™ 2022 - Unique Piece

Taken home by 2022 Ballon d’Or winners Karim Benzema and Alexia Putellas, Purnell’s spectacular Master piece, The 2022 Ballon d’Or watch remains a mesmerizing piece of engineering, an embodiment of the companies “Hyper Horology” mantra that seeks to redefine the boundaries of conventional high watch-making.

Official partner of the Ballon d’Or™ since 2021, Purnell revealed the unique piece awarded to the respective Men’s and Women’s 2022 Ballon d’Or™ winner of the 66th edition on October 17th, 2022. Creation of Legends Worldwide, over 4 billion avid fans live and breathe football. Each goal, miss, penalty, high, and low. It is more than a game; it is a way of life.

French magazine, France Football established the Ballon d’Or™ award in 1956 with the aim to crown living legends. An international jury of 100 expert journalists assembled by the magazine, work together each year to choose the best male and female player of the year. For all the controversy it generates, the Ballon d’Or™ remains the most important individual award in world of football. “Football is the most popular sport in the world and the Ballon

d’Or™ its most prestigious distinction,” said Maurizio Mazzocchi, CEO of Purnell.

France Football announced in March that some of the rules for Ballon d’Or™ have changed, with the key one being that the award would be based on performances over a single season, rather than a calendar year. That means performances at the 2022 World Cup 

20 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Full rotation in 30 seconds thanks to the Flying Tourbillon inside “Ballon d’Or” weight: 4.14g in 18K Rose Gold

2 Barrels; 2 Visible Barrel Covers Engraved with following message:

Left Barrel: « France Football est honorée de remettre au vainqueur masculin* de la 66ème edition du Prestigieux Trophée Ballon d’Or France

Purnell Ballon d’Or ™ 2022

MOVEMENT: Mechanical Hand Winding Caliber P10, Innovative Flying Tourbillon encased in Golden Football, Full Rotation in 30 seconds, Functions: Hour, Minute, Power Reserve Indication via an Ingenious Suspended Mobile Cone Mainspring Sensor, Number of Components: 245, Number of Jewels: 37, Power Reserve: 50 hours, Balance Frequency: 3hz / 21,600bph Movement, Dimensions: 38mm X 14.4mm, Movement Weight: 12.9 grams, Adjusted: 12 Positions, Shock Protection: 8 Incabloc,

DIAL & HANDS: Smoked Sapphire Dial with HandPolished Hands, Finished with Hand-Applied Indexes Displaying Hours and Minutes, Power Reserve Indicator coated in powdered 5N Gold.

CASE: Material: Titanium, Diameter: 48mm; weight: 125 grams, Water Resistance: 3 atm, Number of Case Components: 15,Top Monobloc Sapphire Crystal with Panoramic View of the Ballon d’Or, Lateral Window on Edge of Case at 9 o’clock and 12 o’clock.

STRAP :White Natural Rubber strap 18K White Gold & Titanium Folding Buckle

Football 2022, la Montre Purnell Ballon d’Or. Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris le 17 octobre 2022. » *feminin for the women winner

Right Barrel: « Ballon d’Or France Football et Purnell partagent les valeurs universelles que sont la Performance, le Talent, le Fairplay et la Pérennité. Valeurs auxquelles s’associent Eric Coudray, inventeur du Calibre Purnell P10 qui équipe la montre Pièce Unique Purnell Ballon d’Or 2022. »

was not considered, and instead will be judged when voting for the 2023 Ballon d’Or™ gets under way.

The shortlisting process has also experienced a change. It was previously drafted by journalists working for France Football and L’Équipe, but that has now been altered. Ballon d’Or™ ambassador Didier Drogba helped to finalise the shortlists as well as the “most insightful voter” from the previous edition of the award. For the men’s 2022 edition, Vietnamese journalist Truong Anh Ngoc, working for The Thao & Van Hoa, had a say in the shortlist while Czech journalist Karolina Hlavackova, working for Ruik, helped finalise the 2022 Women’s shortlist.

There have also been changes to the voting system. While 127 jurors, one from each country, were part of the process to decide the winner in 2021, that has now changed. Now, only the top 100 ranked countries in FIFA’s coefficient will be able to have one representative conduct their vote. This has been to eliminate the weakest footballing countries to ensure a fair method of voting that didn’t include too many people and votes from nations with a perceived lower level of football expertise and didn’t make an impact.

“Purnell stands for the best, for the ultimate in the watch industry and could only attach its name to the very best players, the Ballon d’Or™ winners.” … “I think that Purnell and the Ballon d’Or™share two essential values: very high standards of excellence and the taste for performance,” shares Pascal Ferré, Editorin-Chief of France Football.

An 18K White Gold Premiere, the Ballon d’Or™ trophy, a literal golden football, has become the ultimate achievement for any football player. Each trophy is unique, just like each laureate, and it is in that spirit of exclusivity that Purnell developed two unique pieces awarded to the male and female winner of the Ballon d’Or™.

The 2022 Purnell Ballon d’Or™ Unique Piece is donned in a spectacular 48mm Titanium case. An 18K rose gold football engraved with the France Football hallmark, encapsulates a flying tourbillon, making a full rotation in 30 seconds.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY An iconic creation that celebrates football through innovative watch making.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 21
“Football is the most popular sport in the world and the Ballon d’OrTM its most prestigious distinction.”
BUILT FOR THE JOURNEY PRESENTS SON HEUNG-MIN PROFESSIONAL FOOTBALLER GANA 53, MAITAMA 901101, ABUJA NIGERIA | SANUSI FAFUNWA 1439, VICTORIA ISLAND 106104, LAGOS | AZIKIWE ROAD 14, RIVERS 500101, PORT HARCOURT BUILT FOR THE JOURNEY PRESENTS SON HEUNG-MIN PROFESSIONAL FOOTBALLER
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Dossier

LECHEVALIER
BRICE

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Le 12e Art a ses Oscars Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Fondé en 2001 par deux entrepreneurs amoureux d’horlogerie, qui avaient la même année créé le site WorldTempus avec 30 marques parmi les plus prestigieuses, le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève est rapidement devenu incontournable. Adoré par les gagnants, décrié par les marques non distinguées, doté d’un jury parfois opaque dans ses choix, il a ensuite été cédé au groupe de presse Edipresse qui a eu la sagesse de le confier en 2010 à une fondation neutre et indépendante, présidée par l’ancien conseiller d’Etat Carlo Lamprecht. Fervent défenseur de l’horlogerie et des valeurs suisses en général, constamment enthousiaste et pragmatique, il avait aussi imaginé le 12e Art en 2012, l’Art de la mesure du temps. Il nous a malheureusement quitté au printemps 2022. Nous rendons hommage à sa vision et à sa passion qui ont fait passer le GPHG dans une autre dimension, plus fédératrice, doté d’un jury au-dessus de tout soupçon. Avec le GPHG, la belle horlogerie a ses Oscars. La comparaison a d’ailleurs pris plus de sens avec le passage d’un nouveau cap en 2020, sous l’impulsion de son successeur Raymond Loretan, initiateur de l’Académie du GPHG. Opérationnelle pour la troisième fois cette année, elle a montré toute la pertinence de son action. Ses quelque 700 membres ont proposé un nombre record de nouvelles marques, preuve d’une ouverture inédite aux acteurs du 12e Art au sens large. Or, leurs votes ont majoritairement permis aux valeurs sûres et reconnues d’être sélectionnées, reflétant donc une certaine conscience collective de l’industrie horlogère. La cérémonie de remise des prix est à suivre en direct le 10 novembre sur WorldTempus. com, qui publiera tous les résultats dans les 15 catégories. Nous lui consacrons d’ores et déjà ces 15 pages, et vous offrons par ailleurs le catalogue officiel contenu dans cette édition.

The 12th Art has its Oscars

Founded in 2001 by two watchmaking-loving entrepreneurs, who in the same year created the WorldTempus website with 30 of the most prestigious brands, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève quickly became a must-attend event. Adored by laureates, decried by brands that did not win, and with a jury that was sometimes opaque in its choices, it was then handed over to the Edipresse press group, which had the wisdom to entrust it in 2010 to a neutral and independent foundation chaired by former State Councillor Carlo Lamprecht. A fervent advocate of watchmaking and Swiss values in general, this perpetually enthusiastic and pragmatic individual also came up in 2012 with the idea of the 12th Art: the Art of time measurement. He passed away in the spring of 2022 and we pay tribute to his vision and passion, which ushered the GPHG into a new and more unifying dimension, with a jury enjoying greater credibility than ever. Fine watchmaking has its Oscars with the GPHG and the comparison has become more meaningful with the transition to a new stage in 2020, under the aegis of his successor Raymond Loretan, initiator of the GPHG Academy. Operational for the third time this year, it has demonstrated the relevance of its activity. Its 700 or so members put forward a record number of new brands, proof of unprecedented openness to the actors of the 12th Art in the broadest sense. In the end, their votes led mainly to the nomination of established and recognized brands, reflecting a certain collective awareness within the watch industry. The awards ceremony was broadcast live on 10 November on worldtempus.com, which will publish all the results in the 15 categories. We are already dedicating these 15 pages to this event, as well as treating you to the official catalog contained in this edition.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 27

Sélection

GPHG 2022

Les grands axes

En toute logique, la sélection finale des candidats au GPHG reste la chasse gardée des marques les plus connues. Mais les outsiders continuent à tirer leur épingle du jeu.

On ne peut pas échapper aux évidences. Dans tout processus de sélection, ce sont les entités les plus visibles, les plus reconnues, les plus rassurantes aussi, qui sortent gagnantes. En cela, la sélection finale des candidats au Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, plus connu sous le nom de GPHG, ne fait pas exception. A ce stade, six montres sont retenues dans chacune des quinze catégories, parmi lesquelles les deux corps votants du Grand Prix devront choisir un vainqueur. Au total, les Oscars de l’horlogerie décerneront un total de vingt récompenses, une par catégorie et cinq prix spéciaux, dont la très convoitée Aiguille d’Or. Le premier de ces corps est l’Académie, un ensemble non coordonné de 676 membres, choisis parmi des acteurs de l’univers de l’horlogerie, partout dans le monde. Ils ne communiquent ni entre eux, ni avec le jury, ni avec l’organisation du concours. C’est leur vote qui a permis de passer de 254 garde-temps candidats à 90.

du

Grand Prix How the Grand Prix is shaping up

Quite logically, the final selection of candidates for the GPHG remains the preserve of the best-known brands, yet outsiders continue to make their mark.

There is no escaping the obvious. In any selection process, it is the most visible, the most recognized, the most reassuring entities that come out on top. The final selection of nominees for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Prix, better known as the GPHG, is no exception. At this stage, six watches have been nominated in each of the 15 categories, from which the two voting bodies of the Grand Prix will choose a winner. In total, the Watchmaking Oscars will award a total of 20 prizes, one per category and five special prizes, including the coveted “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix “best-in-show” prize. The first of the above-mentioned bodies is the Academy: an uncoordinated group of 676 members chosen from watchmaking circles worldwide. They do not communicate with each other, with the jury or with the organizers of the competition. It is their vote that served to trim the 254 candidate timepieces to 90 nominees.

EDITORS’ PICKS
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultra-thin « RD#3 »

ECHANTILLON

Après avoir été créée en 2020, l’Académie a été élargie pour atteindre sa taille actuelle. Elle est garante de l’indépendance de la pré-sélection, chaque membre étant seul face à son ordinateur pour opérer ses choix. Par sa taille et sa variété, elle bénéficie d’une aura de représentativité, mais aussi d’une humanité toute logique. En clair, chacun vote comme il veut, mais ce choix est orienté par la nature des montres considérées.

ECLECTISME

Une des forces de la nouvelle formule du Grand Prix, voulue par le Président de la fondation qui le régit, Raymond Loretan, est son ouverture. Des marques de tous les pays, de toutes les tailles, de tous les niveaux de notoriété et d’expérience peuvent y participer. Et parmi celles-ci, elles n’ont jamais été aussi nombreuses à être débutantes, inconnues, ou alors connues seulement dans leur zone géographique d’origine. Le premier enseignement de cette édition 2022 est qu’elles ont du mal à passer le premier filtre de sélection et ce fait est on ne peut plus logique. Les grandes marques participantes sont globales, connues, ont un contact historique avec les membres de l’Académie, un passé. Elles représentent donc l’immense majorité des finalistes. 

SAMPLING

Since its creation in 2020, the Academy has been expanded to its current size. It guarantees the independence of the nomination process, with each member being alone in front of their computer to make their choices. Because of its size and variety, it benefits from an aura of representativeness, but also from a logical human touch. Clearly, everyone votes as they wish, but this choice is guided by the nature of the watches considered.

ECLECTICISM

One of the strengths of the new Grand Prix formula – in accordance with the wishes the President of its governing Foundation, Raymond Loretan – is its openness. Brands from all countries, of all sizes and with all levels of fame and experience can participate. Among these, there have never been so many first-timers, unknown names or others known only within their geographical area of origin. The first lesson of this 2022 edition is that it is tough for those within these categories to make it through the initial selection filter, which is quite logical in itself. The major participating brands are global, well-known and have a past including historical contacts with the members of the Academy. They therefore represent the vast majority of the finalists.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Automate Fontaine aux oiseaux

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Fontaine aux oiseaux automaton



FORCES EN PRÉSENCE

Cela n’empêche pas quelques émergences, des phénomènes d’outsider même. Alors que les nominations font la part belle aux Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari ou Chopard, alors que des Parmigiani Fleurier ou Grand Seiko font état de leur importance, on continue à trouver des acteurs qui brillent par leur inventivité plus que par leur surface commerciale. La force du GPHG reste de continuer à donner une place à des Voutilainen, MB&F, Jacob & Co. ou encore Armin Strom. Dans ce concert de noms connus, il faut encore mentionner trois marques qui n’ont pas l’aura historique, même récente, de celles citées précédemment. DRT, Théo Auffret et Sylvain Pinaud, chacun à sa manière, sont la preuve que l’on peut encore passer le cap des présélections sans appartenir au sérail. Le GPHG tient encore sa promesse d’accélérateur de notoriété sans équivalent. Dans le cas particulier de la catégorie Horloge Mécanique, métier dont les acteurs sont mécaniquement peu connus, le phénomène est encore plus fort.

PHASE FINALE

Le second corps votant du GPHG, son jury, se réunira dans les jours précédant la cérémonie de remise de prix, qui se tiendra le 10 novembre 2022, pour opérer son choix. D’ici là, les 90 finalistes feront le tour du monde, une exposition itinérante les faisant voyager de Genève à New Delhi, puis Casablanca avant leur retour au bercail. Pour mémoire, le groupe de trente membres dispose dans son ensemble des deux tiers des droits de vote, le tiers restant demeurant entre les mains de l’Académie.

PLAYERS IN THE MIX

This does not prevent a few emerging entities and even a few outsiders. Although the nominations give pride of place to Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari or Chopard and while Parmigiani Fleurier and Grand Seiko demonstrate their importance, we continue to find players more reputed for their inventiveness than for their commercial clout. The strength of the GPHG is that it continues to make room for stakeholders such as Voutilainen, MB&F, Jacob & Co. and Armin Strom. Among this litany of well-known names, one should nonetheless mention three brands that do not have the historical or even recent aura of the above-mentioned ones. DRT, Théo Auffret and Sylvain Pinaud are each in their own way proof that it is still possible to reach the nomination stage without belonging to the elite. The GPHG is still keeping its promise as a peerless reputation accelerator. In the particular case of the Mechanical Clock category with its relatively little-known protagonists, the phenomenon is even stronger.

FINAL PHASE

The GPHG’s second voting body, its jury, will meet in the days leading up to the awards ceremony on 10 November 2022, to make its final choices. Until then, the 90 finalists will tour the world, with a traveling exhibition taking them from Geneva to New Delhi and then Casablanca before returning home. For the record, the group of 30 members as a whole has two-thirds of the voting rights, with the remaining third in the hands of the Academy.

30 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo VOUTILAINEN Ji-Ku CHOPARD L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon

Jean-Christophe Babin

CEO, Bvlgari Group

Quel est votre meilleur souvenir du GPHG en 20 ans ?

J’en ai deux en fait ! Le tout premier avec TAG Heuer en 2002 pour le Mikrotimer au design révolutionnaire, et bien sûr les deux « Aiguille d’Or » : 2012 pour TAG Heuer et 2021 pour Bvlgari. Je pense être le seul PDG a en avoir eu deux, avec deux marques totalement différentes et indépendantes l’une de l’autre.

En quoi 2022 est une année spéciale pour Bvlgari, quel modèle la symbolise le mieux ?

Je retiens l’Octo Finissimo Ultra bien sûr, qui au-delà de la minceur extraordinaire de la pièce, fait entrer la montre mécanique de haute horlogerie dans le Metavers et les NFTs digitaux artistiques. Une révolution qui unit tradition et avant-garde.

Que faudrait-il de plus au GPHG ?

La participation de plus de marques emblématiques de notre belle horlogerie afin de donner au GPHG encore plus de crédibilité et de légitimité internationales. Mais le niveau est déjà très élevé.

What is your best memory of the GHPG in 20 years?

I actually have two! The very first one with TAG Heuer in 2002 for the Mikrotimer with its revolutionary design, and of course the two “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix wins: 2012 for TAG Heuer, and 2021 for Bvlgari. I think I’m the only CEO to have had two with two totally different brands that are independent of each other.

Why is 2022 a special year for Bvlgari and which model best symbolizes that?

I would of course single out the Octo Finissimo Ultra which, above and beyond its extraordinary slimness, ushers the mechanical watch into the Metaverse and artistic digital NFTs. A revolution combining tradition and avant-garde.

What more do you think the GHG would need?

The participation of more brands emblematic of our beautiful watch industry in order to give the GPHG even more credibility and international legitimacy. But the level is already very high.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 31 BRICE LECHEVALIER
Octo Finissimo Calendrier Perpétuel Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 33
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Sélection

GPHG 2022 Edition Jury

Africa was set on the map with the nomination of the 2022 GPHG Jury. Watch expert, Deremi Ajidahun amongst other amazing personalities from the world of watch making had their expertise united by Historian, Author, and Journalist, Nick Foulkes

34 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
EDITORS’
PICKS
BRICE LECHEVALIER Independent watchmaker and designer / Switzerland Horological constructor of Mercier Solutions / France Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom Founder and CEO of Bamford Watch Department and Bamford London / United Kingdom Watch collector / Switzerland Technology executive of Meta / USA Musician / Ireland Watch expert / France Founder of Urwerk / Switzerland CEO of The Watches of Switzerland Group / United Kingdom LUDOVIC BALLOUARD LAURENT BESSE NICK FOULKES PRESIDENT GEORGE BAMFORD JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER ATISH BANERJEA ADAM CLAYTON GEOFFROY ADER FÉLIX BAUMGARTNER BRIAN DUFFY CEO of Hole19 Group and publisher of GMT Africa / Nigeria CEO of Reuge, watch collector / Switzerland Director of Rabat Madrid, watch collector / Spain CEO of Bulgari, the brand that won the 2021 «Aiguille d’Or» Grand Prix DEREMI AJIDAHUN AMR ALOTAISHAN JON ARTECHE JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN who chaired the Jury.
GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 35
Digital entrepreneur in the world of luxury watches, author / Italy CEO of Estima / Switzerland Watchmaker / Switzerland Director general of Dubai Watch Week / Dubai Watchmaker, founder of Skill / Switzerland Founder of Revolution and The Rake Magazines / Singapore Creator, watch conceptor and cofounder of De Bethune / Switzerland Journalist / United Kingdom Art historian, curator and co-founder of Menē / France Founder of 289 Consulting, communication expert / Switzerland Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom Group managing director of The Hour Glass Limited / Singapore Founder and owner of Chronopassion / France Business & technology development manager of CSEM / Switzerland Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom Watch collector and entrepreneur / United Kingdom GIORGIA MONDANI XAVIER JOURDAIN DANIELA DUFOUR HIND SEDDIQI OLIVIER MORY WEI KOH DENIS FLAGEOLLET ROBIN SWITHINBANK DIANA PICASSO MARINE LEMONNIER ALDIS HODGE MICHAEL TAY LAURENT PICCIOTTO FRÉDÉRIC LOIZEAU LAURENCE JANIN-SCHLEMMER AHMED RAHMAN

Sélection EDITORS’ PICKS

BRICE

Pleins feux sur les nominés Spotlight on the nominees

Parmigiani Fleurier

Tonda PF Automatic

Avec sa lunette moletée et son cadran finement guilloché, cette déclinaison rétrécie à 36mm de la Tonda PF Automatic a tout pour séduire les poignets les plus menus.

PRIX : CHF 49’500.–

Parmigiani Fleurier

Tonda PF Automatic

With its knurled bezel and finely engine-turned dial, this 36mm smaller version of the Tonda PF Automatic has everything to win over even the daintiest wrist.

PRICE: CHF 49,500

Hermès Arceau Hermès Story

Un drôle de bestiaire s’invite sur le cadran de cette Arceau en or rose auréolée de diamants. Tigre, lièvre, tortue, paon, papillons et autres insectes mettent en scène des savoir-faire rares tels que la marqueterie de bois, la gravure ou la peinture miniature. Toute une histoire !

PRIX : CHF 88’000.–

Hermès Arceau Hermès Story

A strange bestiary appears on the dial of this diamond-studded pink gold Arceau. Tiger, hare, tortoise, peacock, butterflies and other insects showcase rare skills such as wood marquetry, engraving and miniature painting. A whole story in itself!

PRICE: CHF 88,000

Jacob & Co.

Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus

Sur la base de l’Astronomia 44mm, Jacob & Co. explore les mystères de l’univers à travers cette interprétation horlogère de la planète Vénus pareille à une dentelle d’or sertie de diamants et de saphirs. Une pièce unique livrée avec son certificat NFT.

Jacob & Co.

Astronomia Metaverso NFT Venus

Based on the Astronomia 44mm, Jacob & Co. explores the mysteries of the universe through this horological interpretation of the planet Venus, appearing like gold lacework set with diamonds and sapphires. A one-of-a-kind creation delivered with its NFT certificate.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie

Le fabuleux reptile de Bvlgari continue de déployer ses charmes dans cette montre à secret drapée d’or rose, de turquoise et de diamants. Pour faire battre son cœur, le micro-calibre Piccolissimo, l’un des plus petits mouvements mécaniques jamais créés.

PRIX : CHF 246’000.–

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie

Bulgari’s fabulous reptile continues to display its charms in this secret watch draped in pink gold, turquoise and diamonds. Beating inside is the Piccolissimo micro-caliber, one of the smallest mechanical movements ever created.

PRICE: CHF 246,000

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

En hommage à la beauté de la nature, le cadran met en lumière le temps qui passe avec poésie, à travers l’ouverture et la fermeture de 12 corolles positionnées sur le cadran orné de nacre, diamants, saphirs et peinture miniature. Un spectacle assuré en coulisses par la magie d’un mouvement mécanique.

PRIX : CHF 247’000.–

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

A tribute to the beauty of nature, the dial poetically highlights the passing of time through the opening and closing of 12 corollas positioned on the dial adorned with mother-of-pearl, diamonds, sapphires and miniature painting. The show thus staged is driven by the magic of a mechanical movement.

PRICE: CHF 247,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultrathin «RD#3»

C’est la première fois qu’une Royal Oak extra-plate en acier de 37mm accueille un tourbillon volant automatique. Une prouesse qui valait bien un cadran au motif Petite Tapisserie dans une nuance violette inédite.

PRIX : CHF 178’200.–

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultra-thin “RD#3”

This is the first time that a 37mm extra-thin steel Royal Oak has housed a selfwinding flying tourbillon. A feat that amply deserved a dial with a Petite Tapisserie motif in an unusual shade of purple.

PRICE: CHF 178,200

36 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

voir analyse et résultats sur WorldTempus

view analysis and results on WorldTempus

Zenith Calibre 135-Observatoire

Au milieu du 20e siècle, le calibre 135-O a régné en maître sur les concours de chronomètres d’observation. Zenith le revisite en l’intégrant dans ce modèle d’exception réalisé en collaboration avec Kari Voutilainen et Phillips.

PRIX : CHF 132’900.–

Zenith Calibre 135-Observatoire

In the mid-20th century, the 135-O movement reigned supreme in observation chronometer competitions. Zenith revisits it by integrating it into this exceptional model produced in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips.

PRICE: CHF 132,900

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

La marque de Schaffhouse marie les styles, entre la modernité et l’esprit aventurier du boîtier en acier et le classicisme du mouvement tourbillon squeletté. Une architecture spectaculaire pour ce grand mouvement de 34 mm qui sublime le ballet du tourbillon volant.

PRIX : CHF 79’000.–

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

The Schaffhausen-based brand combines styles by mingling the modernity and adventurous spirit of the steel case with the classicism of the skeletonized tourbillon movement. Spectacular architecture for this large 34mm movement that enhances the ballet of the flying tourbillon.

PRICE: CHF 79,000

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 9R66

Lauréate dans la catégorie Petite Aiguille, cette montre sportive en titane accueille un cadran texturé inspiré par la brume matinale d’automne dans la région de Shinshu. En coulisses, un mouvement de précision qui assure l’indication de la date, d’un second fuseau horaire et de la réserve de marche.

PRIX : CHF 8’800.–

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT 9R66

Winner in the “Petite Aiguille” category, this sporty titanium watch features a textured dial inspired by the autumn morning mist in the Shinshu region. Behind the scenes is a precision movement that provides the date, a second time zone and power reserve indication.

PRICE: CHF 8,800

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde

Le caractère avant-gardiste de TAG Heuer s’illustre sur la carrure en aluminium anodisé de ce modèle tourbillon doublé d’un chronographe serti de diamants de laboratoire aux formes uniques.

PRIX : CHF 350’000.–

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamond Avant-Garde

The avant-garde character of TAG Heuer is highlighted on the anodized aluminum case of this tourbillon model, which is coupled with a chronograph set with uniquely shaped laboratory diamonds.

PRICE: CHF 350,000

Louis Moinet Time to Race

Louis Moinet s’inspire des voitures de course les plus mythiques et présente un chronographe dont la mécanique est intégralement apparente côté cadran. Pour un plaisir visuel décuplé, le propriétaire de la montre peut la personnaliser avec l’inscription de son chiffre porte-bonheur.

PRIX : CHF 30’500.–

Louis Moinet Time to Race

Louis Moinet is inspired by the most legendary racing cars and presents a chronograph whose mechanics are fully visible on the dial. For added visual pleasure, the owner of the watch can personalize it with the inscription of his lucky number.

PRICE: CHF 30,500

Trilobe Une Folle Journée Edition Noire

La marque française prend de la hauteur et met en perspective les anneaux rotatifs de la montre dans cette spectaculaire Folle Journée Edition Noire qui offre une vue tridimensionnelle sur le mouvement.

PRIX : CHF 21’500.–

Trilobe Une Folle Journée Black Edition

The French Maison steps things up a notch and puts the watch’s rotating rings into perspective within this spectacular Folle Journée Edition Noire, notably offering a three-dimensional view of the movement.

PRICE: CHF 21,500

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 37

Sélection EDITORS’ PICKS

Toujours en lice et sans pression ! Down for delving the depths

Un petit aperçu des montres sélectionnées dans la catégorie Plongée en guise de clin d’œil à l’édition 2022 du Millennium Watch Book consacrée à celles qui défient les lois de la profondeur.

Artya Depth Gauge

Pour connaître la profondeur de plongée, il suffit de se fier au superbe spectacle de couleurs qui ornent le cadran de ce modèle en acier de 44 mm. Ces dernières disparaissent à mesure que son porteur plonge profondément : à 50 mètres, il ne restera plus que le demi-cercle vert.

PRIX : CHF 7’900.–

Artya Depth Gauge

The depth of a dive is indicated by the superb display of colors on the dial of this 44mm steel model. These colors disappear as the wearer dives deeper, with only the green semi-circle remaining at 50 meters.

PRICE: CHF 7,900

Doxa Army Limited Edition

Avec cette édition limitée de 100 pièces en titane et céramique, Doxa réédite une montre de l’unité des Plongeurs d’élite de l’Armée suisse dont la marque était fournisseur officiel en 1969.

PRIX : CHF 4’500.–

Doxa Army Limited Edition

With this 100-piece limited edition in titanium and ceramic, Doxa is reissuing a watch from the Swiss Army’s elite divers unit, for which the brand was the official supplier in 1969.

PRICE: CHF 4,500

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver

Pour équiper sa montre de plongée étanche à 1000 mètres, TAG Heuer opte pour la première fois pour un calibre automatique conçu par la Manufacture Kenissi. Un nouveau jalon en termes de fiabilité et de durabilité.

PRIX : CHF 6’500.–

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

Professional 1000 Superdiver

For the first time, TAG Heuer has chosen an automatic caliber designed by Manufacture Kenissi to equip its 1000m water-resistant diver’s watch. A new milestone in terms of reliability and durability.

PRICE: CHF 6,500

A quick look at the watches selected in the Diver’s watch category as a nod to the 2022 edition of The Millennium Watch Book dedicated to those that defy the laws of depth.

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42

Avec son boîtier en bronze, son cadran vert profond, sa lunette tournante et ses aiguilles « pagaies », elle rappelle la Superocean Slow Motion des années 1970. Une étanchéité à 300 mètres et un mouvement certifié COSC en prime.

PRIX : CHF 3’350.–

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42

With its bronze case, deep green dial, rotating bezel and “paddle” hands, it recalls the 1970s Superocean Slow Motion, as well as featuring water resistance to 300 meters and a COSC-certified movement.

PRICE: CHF 3,350

Grand Seiko Mouvement Spring Drive 9RA5 5 jours

Sculptée dans le titane pour gagner en légèreté, dotée d’un cadran noir richement texturé, d’une étanchéité jusqu’à 200 mètres et d’un calibre assurant une précision de +/– 10 secondes par mois, cette montre combine tous les atouts d’une grande plongeuse.

PRIX : CHF 12’000.–

Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9RA5 5-day movement

Sculpted from titanium to make it lighter, along with a richly textured black dial, water resistance to 200 meters and a movement ensuring accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month, this watch combines all the assets of a great diver’s model.

PRICE: CHF 12,000

Tudor Pelagos FXD

Avec sa lunette tournante bidirectionnelle graduée de manière rétrograde de 60 à 0, ce modèle élaboré avec une unité de la Marine française répond au besoin spécifique de la technique de « navigation par caps successifs », une des spécialités des nageurs de combat.

PRIX : CHF 3’700.–

Tudor Pelagos FXD

With its bidirectional retrograde rotating bezel graduated from 60 to 0, this model developed with a French Navy unit meets the specific needs of the method know as “underwater navigation”, one of the specialties of combat swimmers.

PRICE: CHF 3,700

38 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Sélection

Carine Maillard

Directrice du GPHG Director of the GPHG

En quoi l’édition 2022 se distingue des précédentes (catégories, cérémonie, etc. ?)

Il s’agit de la 22e édition du GPHG et de la 3e édition depuis la création de l’Académie, une Académie qui a grandi en trois ans jusqu’à rassembler plus de 650 membres et dont nous pouvons mesurer l’impact positif pour le développement du GPHG. Conçu dans un esprit fédérateur, ce Grand Prix dépend de tous les acteurs de cette industrie ; notre Académie, qui rassemble les acteurs des divers secteurs et les implique à toutes les étapes de la compétition, le souligne. L’édition 2022 se distingue notamment par la création de la catégorie « Horloge mécanique », qui ouvre le concours aux pendules et pendulettes, ceci à la demande de nombreuses marques. En outre, le Prix de la Chronométrie est de retour, une démarche durable pourra être récompensée dans le cadre du Prix de l’Innovation et les expositions 2022 mettront en lumière les garde-temps présélectionnés puis les gagnants à New Delhi, Casablanca (une première sur le continent africain), Genève, Zürich et New York (voir le calendrier des expositions sur gphg.org).

Quelle est l’édition qui vous a le plus marquée, dont vous êtes la plus fière, depuis 2001 ? Je suis heureuse du chemin parcouru depuis la création de la Fondation en 2011, de constater que nous approchons de nos objectifs premiers : pérennité, indépendance, internationalisation et de voir que notre travail en faveur de cette industrie a son utilité.

Que manquerait-il au GPHG pour devenir encore plus incontournable ?

Du temps, il n’a que 21 ans !

How does the 2022 edition differ from previous ones (categories, ceremony, etc?)

This is the 22nd edition of the GPHG and the third edition since the creation of the Academy – an institution that has grown in three years to encompass more than 650 members and which has had a measurably positive effect on the development of the GPHG. Conceived in a unifying spirit, this Grand Prix depends on all the stakeholders in this industry and this is accentuated by our Academy, which brings together the actors of the various sectors and involves them at all stages of the competition. The 2022 edition is notably distinguished by the creation of the “Mechanical Clock” category, which opens the competition to longcase clocks and table clocks, at the request of many brands. In addition, the “Chronometry Prize” is back; a sustainable approach can be rewarded in the Innovation Prize ;and the 2022 exhibitions will highlight the nominated timepieces and then award winners in New Delhi, Casablanca (the first such stop-over on the African continent), Geneva, Zurich and New York (see the exhibition schedule on gphg.org).

Which is the edition that made the great impression on you/of which you are proudest since 2001?

I am happy with how far we have come since the Foundation was created in 2011, to see that we are approaching our primary objectives of sustainability, independence, internationalization; and that our work on behalf of this industry has a purpose.

What more does the GPHG need in order to become even more inescapable?

Time; it’s only 21 years old!

40 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
EDITORS’ PICKS

It’s a pleasure to see that watches nominated by the GPHG academy will this year be on show on the African continent for the very first time. How excited are you about this and why?

Africa is a growing market, destined to become more and more important in the years ahead. This exhibition is a unique opportunity for watch aficionados to come face to face with the most beautiful contemporary fine watchmaking creations, signed by more than 50 brands, and to better understand and appreciate the know-how and the innovation that underlies the emotion they transmit. It is also allowing participating brands to engage directly with watch enthusiasts in the region. The mission of our foundation is the promotion of watchmaking in all its facets; Africa is a fertile ground for the development of its values of tradition, precision and innovation, and we sincerely hope that our presence in Morocco will arouse the interest of enthusiasts as well as encourage vocations among up-and-coming generations.``

Tell us where in Africa the nominated watches are shown? The 84 watches nominated by our Academy, divided into 14 categories, are exhibited at the Villa Roosevelt in Casablanca from October 20 to 23, 2022.

When will you be visiting Nigeria, the giant of Africa with this amazing show?

Nothing is planned for the moment but why not if we find a serious partner on site to organize a major event, as we do every year in several capitals in the world.

The nation of Nigeria is proud to see that you have a Nigerian for the very first time on your jury panel. What initiated the academy to nominate Mr Deremi Ajidahun to this prestigious jury?

GMT is a long-standing partner of the GPHG and this is how we met Mr Deremi Ajidahun, knowing that he is a true lover and connoisseur of watchmaking and that he could also bring to the jury a particular perspective coming from the African continent.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 41

Sélection

GPHG Academy

Le grand saut The big leap

Dernière évolution du GPHG, l’Académie en étend la dimension participative et la transparence. Une création majeure qui accroît la légitimité du Grand Prix.

Il faut avoir le cœur solide pour faire voguer le navire GPHG. A sa création en 2001, l’idée est de faire rayonner la belle horlogerie dans le monde entier. Déjà, des esprits taquins se chamaillent sur le caractère genevois de l’initiative. Le débat n’avait en réalité aucun fondement : dès la première année, un prix fut attribué à une maison florentine (Gucci) !

On a ensuite reproché au Grand Prix la variabilité de ses distinctions. Futile argutie : si toutes les catégories avaient été conservées à l’identique, on aurait probablement reproché au GPHG l’inverse, son immobilisme. Mais ainsi vont les grandes inventions : elles sont ouvertes au succès comme à la critique. C’est d’ailleurs en leur prêtant une oreille attentive, constructive, que leurs mécanismes peuvent évoluer et s’améliorer.

Representing the latest evolution of the GPHG, the Academy extends its participative dimension as well as its transparency. A major creation that further enhances the credibility of the Grand Prix.

It takes a firm hand to sail the GPHG ship. When it was created in 2001, the idea was to contribute to spreading the worldwide reputation of fine watchmaking. While certain sceptics were already bickering about the Genevan nature of the initiative, such worries proved unfounded, as that same year a prize was awarded to a Florencebased company (Gucci)!

The Grand Prix was then criticized for the variability of its awards from year to year. A pointless argument, since if all the categories had been kept exactly the same, the GPHG would doubtless have been criticized for just opposite issue, of immobility. That is exactly what often happens with great inventions: they are open to success as well as to criticism. It is by listening attentively and constructively to these reactions that their mechanisms can evolve and improve.

EDITORS’ PICKS

VENT NOUVEAU

C’est ainsi qu’en 2018, Raymond Loretan, qui prend alors la présidence du Conseil de la Fondation, soutient avec Carine Maillard l’idée d’une Académie pluridisciplinaire et ouverte. Dans un état où la souveraineté populaire est au fondement de l’action, introduire une dose de proportionnelle n’est peut-être pas, après tout, une mauvaise chose. L’idée fait son chemin avec une étonnante rapidité. Dès 2020, l’Académie du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève voit le jour.

Son fonctionnement est, peu ou prou, celui des grandes institutions des autres arts comme les Césars ou les Oscars. L’Académie propose d’abord des montres éligibles dans les 15 catégories existantes, montres qui sont ensuite soumises aux marques concernées. A ce stade, elles peuvent décider ou non de confirmer les montres en question. Les marques non proposées par l’Académie peuvent également présenter spontanément leurs propres pièces.

A FRESH BREEZE

In 2018 Raymond Loretan was appointed President of the Foundation’s Board and both he and GPHG Director Carine Maillard supported the idea of a multidisciplinary and open Academy. In a country where the “sovereign will of the people” is the basis of action, introducing a proportional representation approach might not be a bad thing after all. The idea caught on with surprising speed and the Academy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève was created in 2020.

Its operation is more or less the same as that of the great institutions of other arts, such as the César Awards in France and the Oscars. The Academy first proposes eligible watches in the 15 categories concerned, which are then submitted to the brands concerned. At this stage, they can decide whether or not to confirm the watches in question. Brands not suggested by the Academy can also spontaneously put forward their own timepieces.

Deux tours de vote sont ensuite organisés. Au premier, l’Académie restreint la sélection à 90 pièces. Au second, un jury de 30 membres de l’Académie se réunit pour évaluer physiquement les pièces et procéder à un nouveau vote. Les montres nommées sont ensuite de nouveau soumises à l’ensemble de l’Académie (à l’exclusion des 30 membres du jury). Les votes du jury comptent double par rapport au vote de l’Académie : 30 pour le premier, 15 pour la seconde, soit 45 votes au total. Le décompte final détermine la liste des prix.

L’Académie compte près de 700 membres nommés sur demande couplée à un parrainage. Ils sont horlogers, experts, distributeurs, représentants de marques, collectionneurs, historiens, journalistes ou experts, répartis en sept collèges, pour trois ans.

Les principes directeurs de l’Académie sont les mêmes que ceux du Grand Prix : indépendance, neutralité et universalité. Fruit de 20 ans d’une riche maturation, l’Académie représente probablement l’étape ultime de ce souffle fondateur, auquel il faut désormais ajouter transparence et représentativité.

Two rounds of voting are then organized. In the first, the Academy narrows down the selection to 90 nominees, and in the second, a jury of 30 Academy members meets to physically evaluate the pieces and cast another vote. The nominated watches are also resubmitted to the entire Academy (excluding the jury members). The jury’s votes count double compared to the Academy’s vote: 30 for the former, 15 for the latter, making a total of 45 votes. The total count determines the list of awards.

To date, the Academy has nearly 700 members, nominated by requests coupled with sponsorship. They are watchmakers, experts, distributors, brand representatives, collectors, historians, journalists and experts, divided into seven colleges, for a threeyear period

The guiding principles of the Academy are the same as those of the Grand Prix: independence, neutrality and universality. The Academy stems from 20 years of a rich maturing process and probably embodies the ultimate stage of this founding spirit, now enhanced by both transparency and representativeness.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 43
Son fonctionnement est, peu ou prou, celui des grandes institutions des autres arts, comme les Césars ou les Oscars.
Its operation is more or less the same as that of the great institutions of other arts, such as the César Awards in France and the Oscars.

Sélection

Interview

Luc Pettavino

fondateur d’Only Watch founder, Only Watch

Au cours des précédentes éditions d’Only Watch depuis 2005, laquelle vous a le plus marqué ?

La première et la dernière ! Malgré l’improbabilité de devenir une réalité heureuse inhérente à chaque projet, la première représentait la traduction d’une idée dans sa concrétisation. C’était un élan fondateur qui a été immédiatement accompagné et soutenu. Pratiquement à chaque nouvelle édition, les montants des adjudications ont fortement grimpé, voire doublé. La dernière a brisé un plafond de verre avec un total de 38,5 millions de francs suisses. Inimaginable ! Son intensité et son ampleur ont agi comme une lame de fond qui a positionné Only Watch comme un événement de référence en matière de créativité horlogère. Et sa finalité caritative le propulse dans la lumière.

Comment l’expliquez-vous ?

Sans doute par un mélange de constance, d’intelligence émotionnelle et de pitch simple qu’un enfant de cinq ans peut comprendre : avec Only Watch on va demander à des gens de créer une montre, de nous la donner pour la vendre afin d’aider et un jour de guérir des enfants qui souffrent. Au fil des éditions, nous avons assisté à une ouverture des possibilités qui s’est faite de manière naturelle et en confiance. La transmission de la parole s’est accompagnée d’une transmission du type d’énergie inhérente au projet, chacun de nous en devenant le dépositaire responsable. Only

Out of the previous editions of Only Watch since 2005, which made the biggest impression on you?

The first and the last! Despite the improbability of an idea becoming reality that is inherent in every project, the first one embodied that very dream come true! This foundational momentum was immediately backed and supported. With almost every new edition, bids have risen steeply, even doubling from one to the next. The last one broke a glass ceiling with a total of 38.5 million Swiss francs, which was truly incredible! Its intensity and scale acted like a groundswell that positioned Only Watch as a benchmark event in terms of watchmaking creativity. Its purpose places it firmly in the spotlight and we are indeed receiving an enormous amount of requests from potential buyers.

How do you explain this?

Probably a combination of consistency, emotional intelligence and a simple pitch that a five-year-old child can understand: with Only Watch we are going to ask people to create a watch, donate it to us so that it can be sold in order to help, and one day, cure suffering children. Over the years, we have seen new possibilities opening up in a process that has taken place naturally and with confidence. Word of mouth has been accompanied by parallel transmission of the project’s

EDITORS’ PICKS
Luc Pettavino (à droite) en compagnie de S.A.S le Prince Albert II de Monaco qui soutient Only Watch depuis sa création. Luc Pettavino (right) in the company of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, who has supported Only Watch since its inception.

Watch c’est une maison commune qu’horlogers, médias, partenaires et collectionneurs ont façonné ensemble avec respect les uns pour les autres. C’est beau à voir, à animer, à coordonner. C’est un privilège, en même temps qu’une grande satisfaction dans ma vie

Vous dirigiez auparavant le Monaco Yacht Show, qu’appréciezvous particulièrement dans l’horlogerie ?

Il y a réellement du génie dans l’horlogerie, un savoir-faire d’exception, une grande intelligence à concentrer, par exemple, toutes ces complications dans si peu d’espace. Mais je ne cherche pas à comprendre tous les tenants et aboutissants techniques. Ma mission dans ce projet consiste à fédérer, libérer les énergies, permettre la transcendance. Le rapport humain me plait beaucoup, très délicat et fugace, car je ne reste jamais assez longtemps pour marquer les choses de mon empreinte. Je fais confiance à mes interlocuteurs et salue leur ouverture de cœur, leur panache quand ils enclenchent très vite le « Oui nous allons créer une pièce unique ET époustouflante ». Tous ont un vrai talent pour exprimer différemment la même histoire.

inherent kind of energy, with each of us becoming a responsible custodian. Only Watch is a like a house that watchmakers, media, partners and collectors have jointly built in a spirit of mutual respect. It is beautiful to see, to enliven, to coordinate. It is a privilege and a source of great satisfaction in my life.

You used to run the Monaco Yacht Show; what do you particularly appreciate about watchmaking?

There is true genius in watchmaking, along with exceptional expertise and great intelligence, for example in concentrating all these complications within such a small space – although I don’t try to understand all the technical ins and outs. My mission in this project is to unite, to release energies, to enable transcendence. I love the human relationship which is very delicate and fleeting because I never stay long enough to leave my mark. I trust my respondents and salute their open-hearted attitude and their style when they quickly say: “Yes, we are going to create a unique AND breathtaking timepiece.” They all have a real talent for telling the same story in different ways.

Quel est le plus beau commentaire que vous ayez reçu de la part d’une marque participante ?

Si je devais relever une réaction plus qu’une autre, j’évoquerais celles qui ont suivi mon appel sur scène lors de la cérémonie du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève en 2019, lorsque j’ai reçu le Prix Spécial du Jury. J’ai ensuite quitté en dernier le Théâtre du Léman, car le discours que j’avais improvisé a touché beaucoup de monde, et de nombreuses personnes sont venues les unes après les autres pour témoigner de leur histoire de vie ou déclarer à quel point c’était rassurant de voir de telles énergies éclore sans être coupées dans leur élan, ou que la simplicité, l’excellence et le succès pouvaient s’exprimer avec autant de fraîcheur. OW est l’exemple type d’une histoire personnelle qui s’est transformée en une histoire universelle.

What is the nicest comment you have received from a participating brand?

If I had to single out one reaction rather than another, I would mention those that followed my call on stage at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève ceremony, when I was awarded the Special Jury Prize. I was subsequently the last person to leave the Théâtre du Léman, as the speech I had improvised touched many hearts. One after another, people came up to me to share their life stories or to say how reassuring it was to see such energies blossoming without being stopped in their tracks; and to realize that simplicity, excellence and success could be expressed in such a refreshing way. Only Watch is a typical example of a personal story that has become a universal story.

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« A-peu-près 99 % du montant est reversé à la recherche, soit 74 millions de francs depuis 2005 ! »
“About 99% of the amount is donated to research, meaning 74 million francs since 2005!”

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Par ailleurs, le soutien inconditionnel du chef de l’état monégasque depuis la première idée en 2004 compte beaucoup pour moi. Malgré le fait qu’il soit de plus en plus occupé, il se montre toujours très ouvert et bienveillant, validant tous les programmes soumis, rédigeant des mots de bienvenue, intégrant toujours OW dans son calendrier et demandant à chaque fois comment il peut aider. Sa confiance et son amitié sont une chance pour le projet.

En quoi l’édition 2021 se distingue ?

Tout d’abord parce qu’elle vient après la bascule de 2019. Egalement par le nombre record de marques et une qualité moyenne de montres qui a encore augmenté. C’est la meilleure garantie pour OW de continuer à exister. Elle se distingue aussi par la nouvelle capacité d’accueil de sa vente aux enchères.

Furthermore, the unconditional support of the Monegasque head of state since the first idea in 2004 means a lot to me. Despite the fact that he is increasingly busy, he is always very open and benevolent, approving all the programs submitted, writing words of welcome, consistently including OW in his calendar and asking how he can help on each occasion. The project is fortunate to benefit from his trust and friendship

What is different about the 2021 edition?

It is different firstly because it comes after the 2019 tipping point I mentioned earlier, but also because of the record number of brands and the even greater overall quality of the watches. This is the best guarantee of Only Watch’s longevity. It also stands out with regard to the new capacity of the auction.

Quelle proportion des résultats des ventes de la biennale est reversée à la recherche contre la myopathie ?

A-peu-près 99 % du montant est reversé à la recherche, soit 74 millions de francs depuis 2005 ! Only Watch n’a pas de bureau, une collaboratrice une année sur deux, tous les participants œuvrent gracieusement qu’il s’agisse des horlogers, de Christie’s qui accueille une partie de l’expo itinérante et la vente aux enchères, de Ferrari pour le transport des montres, d’Air France pour mes voyages ou les médias qui offrent de la visibilité. Je travaille aussi bénévolement pour ce projet.

Les chercheurs bénéficiant d’Only Watch ont une chance assez unique de pouvoir donner leur pleine mesure sur le long terme grâce à des fonds substantiels, tout en faisant attention aux justes coûts.

Et la vie leur offre aujourd’hui la chance de voir le fruit de leur travail se transformer en essais cliniques sur les humains dès 2022. C’est si rare de pouvoir proposer un espoir réel de thérapie sur une lourde pathologie.

Voir les montres en vidéo sur la chaîne Youtube de WorldTempus et tous les articles sur le dossier Only Watch de WorldTempus.

What proportion of the proceeds from the biennial sales is donated to research against muscular dystrophy?

About 99% of the amount is donated to research, meaning 74 million francs since 2005! Only Watch has no office, one employee every other year, and all participants work free of charge, be they watchmakers; Christie’s which hosts part of the travelling exhibition and the auction; Ferrari which handles the shipping of the watches; Air France for my travels; or the media, which provides visibility. My work for this project is also pro bono.

The researchers benefiting from Only Watch have a unique opportunity to do their very best over the long term thanks to substantial funds, while nonetheless carefully monitoring costs.

And life is now offering them an opportunity to see the fruit of their labor transformed into clinical trials on humans as early as 2022. It is so rare to be able to offer real hope of a therapy for a serious disease!

View videos of the watches on the WorldTempus YouTube channel and read all the articles in the Only Watch dossier on the WorldTempus website.

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EDITORS’ PICKS
« A travers leurs pièces uniques ET époustouflantes, les horlogers ont un vrai talent pour exprimer différemment la même histoire. »
“Through their unique and breathtaking timepieces, watchmakers have a real talent for telling the same story in different ways.”
53GanaStreet, Maitama, Abuja. Tel:+2348140000264 ww w. zakaaurban. com
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LECHEVALIER GENERATION OF LUGGAGE PROXIS STRONG | DURABLE MADE IN EUROPE THE NEXT GENERATION PROXIS LIGHT | STRONG MADE THE NEXT GENERATION OF LUGGAGE PROXISTM LIGHT | STRONG | DURABLE MADE IN EUROPE
BRICE
GENERATION OF LUGGAGE PROXISTM STRONG | DURABLE IN EUROPE MADE WITH EXCLUSIVE ROXKINTM TECHNOLOGY GANA 53, MAITAMA 901101, ABUJA NIGERIA | SANUSI FAFUNWA 1439, VICTORIA ISLAND 106104, LAGOS | AZIKIWE ROAD 14, RIVERS 500101, PORT HARCOURT

EDITORS’ PICKS

Photo shoot

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En complément de notre dossier « Disruptif », nous avons confié une sélection de montres au photographe Denis Hayoun et au réalisateur Fabrice Rabhi qui ont conçu un shooting photo et d’animation sur ce thème. Résultat détonnant dans ces pages et en digital sur l’Instagram de GMT et le site de WorldTempus.

In addition to our “ Disruptive ” feature, we entrusted a selection of watches to photographer Denis Hayoun and creative director Fabrice Rabhi, who did a photo shoot and animation on this theme. The explosive result is visible here in print as well as in digital form on GMT ’s Instagram account and the WorldTempus website.

CYRUS

Klepcys Dice Double Independent Chronograph avec boîtier en titane DLC noir, mouvement automatique et bracelet en Cordura rouge.

CYRUS

Klepcys Dice Double Independent Chronograph with black DLC-treated titanium case, self-winding movement and red Cordura strap.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Big Bang Integral Ceramic avec boîtier en céramique bleue polie et satinée, mouvement chronographe automatique et bracelet en céramique.

HUBLOT

Big Bang Integral Ceramic with polished and satin-brushed blue ceramic case, self-winding chornograph movement and ceramic bracelet.

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HUBLOT

JACOB & CO.

Bugatti Chiron Sapphire Crystal avec boîtier en saphir, mouvement tourbillon manuel et bracelet en caoutchouc blanc.

JACOB & CO.

Bugatti Chiron Sapphire Crystal with sapphire case, manual-winding tourbillon movement and white rubber strap.

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CORUM

Bubble X Ray avec boîtier en acier, mouvement automatique et bracelet synthétique avec doublure caoutchouc.

CORUM

Bubble X Ray with steel case, self-winding movement and rubber-lined synthetic alligator-like strap.

CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon avec boîtier en acier, mouvement tourbillon automatique et bracelet en acier.

CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon with steel case, selfwinding tourbillon movement and steel bracelet.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

ARTYA

Purity Tourbillon avec boîtier en saphir, mouvement tourbillon et bracelet en cuir d’alligator noir.

ARTYA

Purity Tourbillon with sapphire case, tourbillon movement and black alligator leather strap.

Endeavour

Endeavour

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H. MOSER & CIE. Center Seconds Concept Lime Green avec boîtier en acier poli, mouvement automatique et bracelet en cuir de koudou gris. H. MOSER & CIE. Center Seconds Concept Lime Green with polished steel case, self-winding movement and gray kudu leather strap.
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Abiodun FeuserAjidahun

CEO, Nettetal

Leading woman in luxury distribution and retail, Abiodun Feuser-Ajidahun is setting the pace for African women in the industry. The MD/CEO Nettetal shares her journey in business and the secret to her successes.

As the founder of Nigeria’s leading retail - Home furniture, Fragrance and décor - company, what birthed Nettetal?

Nettetal came from my father’s home town in Germany, ‘NETTA’ is the River ‘Netta’, ‘TAL’ is the people of Netta. So, having lost my father, I just thought, how do I represent this man? I decided to name the company in honor of him and our heritage.

Can you give us a short profile of Nettetal?

Nettetal, started in 1997, in Port Harcourt, we started as a small gift store, we’ve been going for over 25 years now, growing from

strength to strength with the support of our dedicated team, some of whom have been with us from the inception till today - they are definitely the wind under our wings.

How do you see the Nettetal brand impacting the future of premium home furniture, fragrance and décor in Nigeria? Well I would like to say we’ve gone through the hits and the knocks, and everything is through experience, so we’ve come to understand what our loyal clients like, and we’ve learnt how to deliver what they want to them. We search for the newest trends,

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visit the premium fairs, and ensure that we bring the best home.

What challenges have you faced in the course of the business?

I guess, the first would be the typical one of finance. Working with banks per interest rate, under normal circumstances, with the way we work, we should have been where we are now a long time ago, but it takes much longer here because you don’t have the support and the interest rates are very high. I think that’s one of the biggest challenges.

What can you point out as some of Nettetal’s proudest achievements?

It always goes back to the people. I think we’ve built a formidable team. We have been able to enhance people that work with us taking them from level to the next. We try our best to invest in our team members, and we’ve grown our staff strength to over a 120, from just 5 people, so yes, Its an achievement I’m really proud of.

How many branches does Nettetal have in Nigeria?

Currently, 6 in Abuja, 1 in Port Harcourt, and then 1 with our partner TLC in Lagos

What is your next big move?

To keep bringing the best shopping experience to our client in town.

Who would you say is your biggest role model in the business?

I would say, my Husband, Mr. Ajidahun. He’s stood by me, driven me, pushed me, and we support each other a lot in our businesses. We wake up in the morning to our coffee, plan the day, and generally inspire each other. He’s got huge shoulders, very confident, he’s not afraid of anything, so he has the confidence to let me thrive, and in fact he pushes me and challenges me.

What does luxury mean to you?

I think it is ‘time’to surround yourself with people you love first, then secondly surrounding yourself with things that make you happy. For me fragrances are a big part of what I do; Home fragrances are my happy place.

Tell us about your major partnerships.. With Furniture, we are working with some strong brand partners; Visionnaire Home Philosophy, Luxury Living; Bentley Home, Luxence Living and Kare. We also have Trussadi Casa and Versace Home from the last quarter of 2022. With Fragrances we work with, key brands, Dr Vranjes, Locherber, Onno, Ormonde Jayne, Lalique, Yankee candles, Carmani, Baobab amongst other amazing brands.

What do you think about the Nigeria retail space? Do you think International brands are slow to enter?

I think the International brands are very eager to enter our market, they’ve looked at the numbers, population, the way Nigerians spends out of the country, and are confident it a will translate to in house sales. A lot of structure is missing, infrastructure, luxury shopping malls, and stuff like that. I think in the next 10 years, the whole retail space is completely going to be redefined, and we are happy to be one of the forerunners in the Nigerian retail space.

What is your favorite item?

It may not be an item, but may be photos because they bring a lot of memories, people lost, loved… something that you hold on to.

Describe Mrs. Ajidahun in one sentence. Family, Friends, Good people, Loyal people; Those are my happy place, being around people that make me happy.

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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65 53,GANASTREET,MAITAMA,ABUJA 59,USUMASTREET,MAITAMA,ABUJA

Olatowun Candide-Johnson

The era of African women taking center stage is here!

GMT Africa sets its spotlight today on a woman who is reshaping the narrative around Africa’s leading women by creating a nurturing environment for women to meet, network, support and validate one another, enjoy themselves while growing a strong business community where diversity and inclusion thrive to produce unlimited business success.

A lawyer with over thirty years experience in corporate and commercial law, business development and governance of multinational corporations, CEO, GAIA AFRICA, Mrs Olatowun Candide Johnson is contributing to the socio-economic growth and transformation of Africa by empowering women to organise around the principles of female leadership and participation in business.

What challenges did you face in founding this club?

The first challenge was to properly articulate my vision in a form that would be easy for others who would be stakeholders, to understand and appreciate it. That is still something that we work on every day. The second was trying to find and mobilise funding both from supportive shareholders and the financial market, for a brick and mortar digitally enabled but not digitalised (at the time) busi-

ness. To bring money and an idea together in business is the principal challenge of a visioner, and building upon some success up to this time, we will begin another round of funding in May 2022.

What is the future of Gaia Africa?

The future is huge and very bright. We are already planning to carry the vision across Africa. You should expect to see a GAIA House in a few big cities in Africa in the next few years and to expect global impact.

How many GAIA chapters are there in Nigeria?

There is just the one club house based in Lagos, Nigeria. However, we have members who live in Lagos, Abuja, Ilorin, the UK, USA, Dubai, Ghana, France and Germany. We interact regularly with our overseas members through our digital activities and are happy to welcome them at the Club House when they are in Lagos.

What does luxury mean to you?

“Time” above all else is Luxury. Doing what you want, when you want. Luxury for me is the finest of comfort, taste, elegance and style.

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Interview

Why do you think the major luxury brands have been so slow to enter Nigerian retail space, whilst it is clear that Nigerians are natural spenders?

First the fear of “Nigeria” – an uncertain business landscape. Where there’s no stability of policy, economy or ease of doing business, when everything from how you enter the country to how take your money out is made as difficult as possible, any brand coming into Nigeria must be willing to play a long hard game. But why bother if you can go to another country? The 1-5% that can truly afford these items are very frequent travellers and if they aren’t they can use a concierge service. To attract FDI, Nigeria’s leadership has to be ready to make fundamental change. It’s all about the economy - so big picture – not for individual benefit.

The spenders spend when they travel - it really doesn’t help that we have been consistently made “poorer” with the crashing nature of our currency. Fortunately for luxury brands, we have an aspirational population who will find a way to buy the items they love/ desire.

What is your favorite owned item?

Honestly? Birkin bags. Why? because each one is elegant, stylish, timeless and also practical. I can fit everything I need into it and when they begin to look tired, I can send them to the “spa” for rejuvenation. Love that these are items for life. I have worked very hard to earn my income and will not spend merely for fad or for fashion.

What is your most expensive purchased item?

It is better used than to “advertise” it.

What is your must-have item when traveling?

This is a tough one – it really depends on where I’m going and for what - but as a minimum, laptop, ipad, lip balm…. The list can be endless. I do not pack lightly.

What do you do on Holidays?

I try to relax but I’m not the type to stay in – I like to explore new places - visit museums, art galleries, theatre, (French) markets; restaurants; I love good food and good wine, and of course one must exercise!

Describe the fabulous Olatowun Candide Johnson in one paragraph.

Fabulous? You are very kind. Truth is I am a very simple person. I am quite reserved and have always been shy (no one believes me when I say this) – sadly this can come off wrongly sometimes. I am quirky, have a good sense of humour quite a bit obsessive compulsive (ask my family). I tend to trust a lot and take people at face value – sadly I’m having to unlearn this behaviour. I enjoy the finer things of life and look forward one day to a Mediterranean cruise on my own yacht (in my lovely dreams).

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Interview

Chloe Olumide

CEO, The Luxury Collection

Luxury retail expert, Mrs. Chloe Olumide is shining the torch lit by her mother, through her company The Luxury Collection, she is redefining the meaning of TLC (Tender, Love and Care) delivering a touch that makes every client special.

What birthed the luxury collection?

Well, the family really, my mum’s had a store for almost 30 years now, so I grew up in it, after school I would go and work in the store, or when I’m on holidays, Christmas holidays, I would work in the store, and it was something very natural, I wanted to do it, I wasn’t forced to do it, and I went off to study other things, my mum has encouraged me to study interior designs, but I did not want to, behold I found myself one day helping her out in Abuja, and my dad had traveled from Lagos, he looked at me and said why are you not doing this with your mum, you are good at it, it is natural for you, and I said yes, why not?! That means it’s high time to open the Lagos branch, that’s why it was called The Luxury Collection, because, I wanted to do it on my own, I knew that if it was to be called Nettetal I would depend on her a lot, and

I wanted to push through by myself, and by doing that I registered the company in my name, and I am responsible for everything that concerns that store.

Can you give us a short profile on The Luxury Collection?

The Luxury Collection, is very similar to Nettetal, we do buying together, we go to the fairs, it has a good range of products, from your high end to your affordable luxury, we have lots of international brands, last year November, we opened Lagos branch, so now we have in Lagos, fragrances, accessories, gifting items, etc.

How do you see The Luxury Collection brand impacting the future of luxury retail in Nigeria.

I think, it would be through the service, the reason why I chose The Luxury Collection was because I like the abbreviation TLC, also you know the acronym TLC, also stands for Tender Loving Care, so I wanted that name to resonate with people, and the point was that, from the moment they step foot into the store they feel that TLC, from the atmosphere, sales team, brands, items that are sold

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are all specially created and sourced. Every single item in the store is hand picked by me, so I just wanted to translate that feeling with customers.

Can you tell us what brands The Luxury Collection is in partnership with?

Apart from Kare and brands form Nettetal, we currently have fragrances; Locherber, Millefiori, Baobab, and we are hoping before the end of the year to expand our fragrance collection and take in more brands like Max Benjamin (Elysium), Lohn, Xerjoff, JTC.

Where is your location and why did you choose it?

We are in VI, Victoria Island, it’s the heart of Lagos, it is very commercial, a lot of businesses are there. It has its pluses, because of my location I have been able to grow, without major publication, just because of my location, referrals, we have grown to four times our size at startup.

What does luxury mean to you?

Luxury means Special. For me, luxury things are special things, I think that is why I like the name, THE LUXURY COLLECTION.

Why do you think more international brands have been slow to enter the Nigeria retail space?

I think because our Nigerian currency is so unstable, secondly, because Nigerians are a bit programmed, they need to unlearn the idea that you cant find .

What challenges are you facing or have faced in setting up the luxury collection?

Staffing is one, it’s hard to find a good staff that is knowledgeable and well trained. Another is power. Power is a big issue, we barely have electricity from the grid and have to rely on expensive to run generators. Thirdly, Importation is unnecessarily complicated in Nigeria.

What is your next Big Move?

My next big move is actually in the fragrance section, to make it a proper fragrance house, taking it up a notch, we want it to be known as the destination for niche fragrances in Lagos.

Who is your biggest role model in business?

Well it’s my mum and my Dad, being a woman and seeing my mum and all the things that she’s done, it inspires me, it pushes me, it makes me want to be independent and not want to ever rely on anyone.

What is your favorite item?

My favorite owned Item, is my phone.

Describe the Fabulous Chloe in one paragraph?

Chloe is caring and very family oriented, a big family girl, I really like my own space, I am not the biggest people person, but I get on very quickly, my favorite thing to do, would be to watch movies, and cuddle with my husband and my kids, and my dog, that’s an ideal evening for me.

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THELUXURYCOLLECTION 5,SanusiFafunwa,VictoriaIsland TEL: 08184698684

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Interview

Irina Ciobanu

Founder Ladies Watch Club

How was The Ladies Watch Club founded?

There are a lot of women in the watch industry, passionate about watches, collecting watches, but when I looked at watch clubs, it was men, men, men!

No one connected ladies. So on March 8, 2020 — International Women’s Day, I launched the club.

The Ladies Watch is an exclusive Club for watch enthusiasts and aficionados from all over the world. We connect, talk and share the same passion- WATCHES!

Founder: Irina Ciobanu – my full name, born in Moldova and living in Dubai since 2015.

I’ve always had a fascination with watches. I can remember all throughout my early life, I would stop by watches boutiques and admire the watches that I couldn’t afford at that time.

What is the process of becoming a member?

We are welcoming all the ladies worldwide that are sharing the same passion, which is watches. Our members are watch collec-

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EDITORS’

tors, watch enthusiasts, ladies working in the watch industry or who want to learn more about watches. To become a member of this amazing community, there is a form on the website to be filled. We are 900+ passionate and knowledgeable members worldwide - USA, UAE, India, Switzerland, Italia, Russia etc.

What drives the club and what are the approaches adopted to achieve its goals?

The Club is driven by the passion and the eagerness from all watch female enthusiasts globally to show the world that females play a big role in the watch industry.

Every member of the club is an ambassador of this message, every event we will do it’s going to increase the awareness of big brands who are starting to listen to more women to shape their product strategy.

What are the club’s record projects and achievements?

The biggest achievement was to create the First Worldwide Female Club where enthusiasts from around the globe connect over a shared passion for beautiful and masterful watches!

Partnering with brands such as IWC, Time Valee, JLC, Vacheron Costantin, Roger Dubuis it’s a big honor and achievement.

Any projects in the pipelines?

Preparing a series of monthly meetups — with a female representative from different watch companies at each one to talk about watches, history, learn more about the brands and the amount of work put behind a watch.

What are the challenges the club is facing?

The possibility of meeting in person all the ladies and organizing a gathering all together.

What is the future of female watchmaking?

“It’s not just a man’s world where we will not get involved. We will definitely get involved. We already are.”

There are increasing numbers of women designers in the industry.

Maybe this is the reason that the women’s watch market is changing, a female-centric and intuitive design that produces watches that speak to women and that women actually want.

When the pandemic happened, brands had no choice but to adapt.

The industry is starting to listen, they’re seeing more women sharing the watches they’re buying. Social media, especially Instagram, has had a huge influence on opening up this very traditional industry.

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THE ART HOTEL

The Art Hotel is the first of its kind, luxury 5-Star luxury hotel located at Plot 13A Block III, Yesufu Abiodun Oniru Way, Oniru Chieftaincy Estate, Victoria Island, Lagos We are conveniently located in the business district and in close proximity to shopping malls, banks, cinemas and even a beach Housing a gallery with an extensive display of diverse Nigerian art for public viewing and objects d’art from our permanent collection celebrating Nigeria’s rich and vibrant culture

The Art Hotel is the travel enthusiast’s home away from home We have sought to bridge the gap between indigenous culture and contemporary creativity Our rooms, the Duke, the Prince suites, and our Presidential Emperor suites pay homage to the traditional Oniru royal ruling house in Lagos

Block III Yesufu Abiodun Oniru Victoria Island, Lagos, Nigeria. Tel: +2349166105381, Web: arthotelng com, Email: info@arthotelng com

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Focus BVLGARI

Octo Roma WorldTimer

BOÎTIER : acier (ou traité DLC sablé noir) poli/ brossé satiné, fond transparent, couronne vissée en acier sertie de céramique ; étanche à 100 m DIAMÈTRE : 41 mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (calibre BVL 257, 42 h de réserve de marche) FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, 24 fuseaux horaires et indicateur 24 h CADRAN : bleu finition soleillée (ou noir mat), index appliques en or plaqué rhodium

BRACELET : acier poli/brossé satiné (ou caoutchouc texturé) avec fermoir déployant à trois lames

Octo Roma WorldTimer

CASE: steel (or black sandblasted DLCcoated), polished/satin-brushed, transparent caseback, steel screw-down crown set with ceramic; water-resistant to 100m DIAMETER: 41mm

MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding (Caliber BVL 257, 42h power reserve)

FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, 24 time zones and 24-hour indicator DIAL: sunburst blue (or matt black) finish, applied rhodiumplated gold hour-markers

BRACELET/STRAP: polished/satin-brushed steel (or textured rubber) with triple folding clasp

All roads lead

Tous les chemins mènent à Rome

Avec l’Octo Roma WorldTimer, Bvlgari parcourt le monde en un clin d’œil. Polymorphe selon l’angle et la lumière, cette nouveauté des Geneva Watch Days débarque sur tous les continents en tant que citoyenne du monde horloger, s’adaptant à toutes les cultures. Permettant une lecture instantanée des 24 fuseaux horaires représentés par autant de villes (avec parfois des clins d’œil comme St-Barth pour les Caraïbes), elle véhicule une culture universelle de la belle horlogerie de luxe, l’esprit de la dolce vita en plus. Simplement actionné par la couronne, son disque rotatif double à l’extérieur du cadran permet d’ajuster les fuseaux à l’heure de référence choisie comme un jeu d’enfant. Moins extrême que l’Octo Finissimo qui s’est imposée en dix ans comme la montre la plus titrée de l’histoire de l’horlogerie, la ligne Octo Roma plus consensuelle poursuit sa montée en force. Dorénavant indiscutable, le statut de manufacture horlogère d’exception de Bvlgari va de pair avec un design contemporain affirmé, conférant à l’Octo Roma WorldTimer des atouts d’autant plus percutants qu’ils s’accompagnent d’un rapport qualité-prix rare à ce niveau d’expertise.

to Rome

Bvlgari travels the world in a flash with the Octo Roma WorldTimer. Polymorphic depending on the angle and the light, this new model introduced at Geneva Watch Days is arriving on all continents as a citizen of the watchmaking world, adapting to all cultures. Enabling instant reading of all 24 time zones represented by as many cities (with occasional nods such as St. Barts for the Caribbean), it conveys a universal culture of fine luxury watchmaking, infused with the Dolce Vita spirit. Its double rotating disk on the outside of the dial is easily operated via the crown and makes child’s play of adjusting time zones to the chosen reference time. Less extreme than the Octo Finissimo, which in ten years has become the most successful watch in watchmaking history, the more widely accessible Octo Roma line continues to grow in popularity. Bvlgari’s status as an exceptional watch Manufacture is now indisputable, as is its contemporary design, endowing the Octo Roma WorldTimer with assets that are all the more striking in that they are accompanied by a quality/price ratio that is rare at this level of expertise.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 77

Sélection

Focus CARTIER

Ronde de nuit

Le cœur de la Haute horlogerie de Cartier bat encore. Pas seulement dans les versions squelette que la marque édite pour chacun de ses modèles, mais aussi dans les grandes complications innovantes. Au moment de leur lancement, elles avaient défrayé la chronique par leur inventivité. Celle-ci est entretenue par des variations subtiles autour de modèles tels que la Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux. Son mouvement squelette est ancré sur des disques de saphir transparent superposés, une illusion qui est le concept même des Heures Mystérieuses de la marque. Le calibre semble suspendu dans le vide et tourne sur lui-même comme un tourbillon, en une heure. Ses chiffres romains, et les ponts de son squelette, sont garnis de Super-LumiNova vert. Mais pour obtenir l’un des cinq exemplaires édités, les conditions sont plus que spéciales. L’Astromystérieux fait partie d’un coffret de trois pièces de la Haute Horlogerie de Cartier, toutes en platine et toutes garnies de matière luminescente. Livrées dans un écrin en marqueterie de très haute facture, elles sont indissociables.

Night Watch

Rotonde Astromystérieux

BOÎTE : platine, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche 30 m (3 bar) TAILLE : 43,5 mm de diamètre, 11,9 mm d’épaisseur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre 9462MC à 55 h de réserve de marche, pont en rotation sur platine en saphir avec fonction tourbillon FONCTIONS : heures et minutes CADRAN : tour d’heures gris galvanique avec chiffres romains BRACELET : alligator bleu canard sur boucle ardillon en platine

Rotonde Astromystérieux

CASE: platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m (3 bar) DIMENSIONS: 43.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical manualwinding Caliber 9462MC with 55h power reserve, bridge rotating on a sapphire crystal plate with tourbillon function

FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes DIAL: gray galvanic chapter ring with Roman numerals STRAP: duck blue alligator leather secured by a platinum pin buckle

The heart of Cartier Haute Horlogerie continues to beat, in the skeletonized versions that the brand issues for each of its models as well as in its innovative Grand Complication timepieces. Their inventiveness had made headlines at the time of their launch and this momentum is maintained by subtle variations on models such as the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux. Its skeletonized movement is suspended from superimposed transparent sapphire disks, an illusion representing the fundamental concept of the brand’s Mysterious Hours. The caliber appears to be floating in space and spins like a tourbillon, completing one full rotation every hour. Its Roman numerals and the bridges forming its skeleton are coated with green Super-LumiNova. However, obtaining one of these five watches involves certain very special conditions, since the Astromystérieux is part of a set of three Cartier Haute Horlogerie timepieces – all made of platinum and all coated with luminescent material. Delivered in a very finely crafted marquetry presentation box, they are inseparable.

78 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus

ARMIN STROM

Orbit – First Edition

BOÎTIER : acier, lunette en céramique, fond saphir, étanche à 50m TAILLE : 43,4mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique par micro-rotor, barillet à force égale, 25’200 alt/h, 72 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : excentré en or noir FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, date, réserve de marche BRACELET : acier, double boucle déployante EDITION LIMITÉE : 25 exemplaires PRIX : CHF 29’500.–

Orbit – First Edition

CASE: steel, ceramic bezel, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 43.4mm MOVEMENT: mechanical with automatic winding by micro-rotor, barrel with constantforce transmission, 25,200 vph, 72h power reserve DIAL: off-center in black gold FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve STRAP: steel, double folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 25 PRICE: CHF 29,500

La date en orbite

The date in orbit

The date indication, a watchmaking must? In addition to the hours and minutes, it is indeed common to be able to check the date with a quick glance at the dial. Except that for Armin Strom, there is no question of staying on the beaten track of watch complications: rather than being displayed in a counter or via a hand on the dial, the date is placed on the black ceramic bezel of the Orbit – First Edition model. A large central hand extended by the initial “A” is driven by a column wheel visible on the dial side and thus points to the days of the month when the “on” mode is activated, using the pusher on the left side of the steel case. In this mode, the date changes automatically every day at midnight. In the “off” position, the date hand is placed in stationary mode at 12 o’clock so as not to obstruct the vision of the micro-rotor the watch’s equal force barrel. An impressive feat for this first 25-piece edition serving as a reminder that technology is above all dedicated to serving functionality.

L’indication du quantième, b.a-ba de l’horlogerie ? En plus de l’heure et de la minute, il est en effet courant de pouvoir s’enquérir de la date d’un rapide coup d’œil au cadran. Sauf que pour Armin Strom, pas question de rester sur les sentiers battus des complications horlogères : plutôt que de s’afficher dans un compteur ou via une aiguille sur le cadran, la date est placée sur la lunette en céramique noire du modèle Orbit – First Edition. Une large aiguille centrale prolongée par l’initiale « A » est entraînée par une roue à colonnes visible côté cadran et pointe ainsi les jours du mois quand le mode « on » est actionné, à l’aide du bouton poussoir placé à gauche du boîtier en acier. Avec ce mode, la date change automatiquement chaque jour à minuit. En mode « off », l’aiguille de la date est placée en mode stationnaire à 12h de manière à ne pas entraver la vision du micro-rotor et du barillet à force égale de la montre. Un tour de force pour cette première édition de 25 pièces qui rappelle que la technique est avant tout au service de la fonctionnalité.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La possibilité très pratique de choisir entre les modes « on » et « off » de la fonction date, permettant ainsi de l’indiquer à la demande.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The very practical possibility of choosing between “on” and “off” modes for the date function, thus serving to indicate this information on demand.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 79

Focus

Streamliner Chronograph

Flyback

Automatic Blacker than Black

BOÎTE : matière inconnue, recouverte de Vantablack TAILLE : imperceptible

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre HMC902

FONCTIONS : heures et minutes, chronographe à retour en vol avec deux aiguilles coaxiales

CADRAN : Vantablack, aiguilles garnies de Globolight BRACELET : matière inconnue, recouverte de Vantablack PRIX : prototype pas à vendre

Streamliner

Chronograph Flyback

Automatic Blacker than Black

CASE: unknown material, covered with Vantablack SIZE: imperceptible MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber HMC902 FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes, flyback chronograph with two co-axial hands

DIAL: Vantablack, Globolight-enhanced hands

STRAP: unknown material, coated with Vantablack PRICE: prototype not for sale

Plus noir que le plus profond des noirs

Blacker than the deepest black

For six years, H. Moser & Cie. has been leveraging the properties of Vantablack. This carbon nanotube-based material gives a black shade to protected elements such as the dials on several of the brand’s timepieces. Its structure and composition totally trap the light and therefore extinguish volumes, absorb any reflection and deceive the eye. This time, H. Moser & Cie. has decided to change gears with a watch that is a veritable black hole. The term is appropriate because the Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic Blacker than Black absorbs 99.965% of photons. Its case, its dial, its strap and everything about it is so black that against a background of the same color, whatever the angle, it disappears completely. The brand had to rely on the hands to make it stand out. And even then, these appear to be floating in the void. This piece is still a demonstration prototype for now and would not be wearable as such because this form of Vantablack is fragile. The brand nonetheless confidently states that it has a solution for producing a wrist-wearable version, which one can imagine all the more easily in that the product is already used on outdoor surfaces in aerospace and military environments.

Depuis six ans, H. Moser & Cie. exploite les propriétés du Vantablack. Cette matière à base de nanotubes de carbone teinte en noir des éléments protégés, typiquement le cadran de plusieurs pièces de la marque. Sa structure et sa composition piègent totalement la lumière et donc, éteignent les volumes, absorbent tout reflet et trompent l’œil. Cette fois-ci, H. Moser & Cie. a décidé de changer de braquet avec une montre qui est un véritable trou noir. Le terme est adapté car la Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic Blacker than Black absorbe 99,965% des photons. Sa boite, son cadran, son bracelet, tout en elle est si noir que sur un arrière-plan de la même couleur, quel que soit l’angle, elle disparaît totalement. La marque a dû tout miser sur les aiguilles pour la faire émerger. Et même là, elles semblent flotter dans le vide. Cette pièce est pour l’instant un prototype de démonstration, importable en l’état car cette forme de Vantablack est fragile. Mais la marque assure avoir une solution pour en produire une version portable au poignet, qu’on imagine d’autant plus facilement que le produit est utilisé sur les surfaces extérieures en milieu spatial et militaire.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La logique du noir poussée à son extrême, avec un rendu époustouflant. La promesse d’une pièce de série est plus qu’alléchante : mystérieuse.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The logic of black pushed to its utmost extreme, resulting in a breathtaking rendering. The promise of a series-made piece is very appealing and decidedly mysterious.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 81

Moon Runner

BOÎTIER : titane, fond saphir, étanche à 50m

DIMENSIONS : 48x52,3mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel (calibre 601-MO, 72h de réserve de marche), deux soufflets à capillaires FONCTIONS : heures rétrogrades fluidiques, minutes, date, mois, phases de lune CADRAN : multicouche, indications luminescentes BRACELET : alcantara bleu et caoutchouc noir, boucle déployante en titane SÉRIE LIMITÉE : 27 pièces PRIX : CHF 120’000.–

Moon Runner

CASE: titanium, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m DIMENSIONS: 48x52,3mm MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound (Caliber 601-MO, 72h power reserve), two capillary bellows FUNCTION: retrograde fluidic hours, minutes, date, months, moon phases DIAL: multi-layer, luminescent indications STRAP: blue alcantara and black rubber, titanium folding clasp LIMITED SERIES OF 27 PRICE: CHF120,000

La Moon Runner éclipse l’ennui

The

Moon Runner

eclipses boredom

Numerous dimensions have already been explored in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Ten years after its launch, HYT is embarking on a new odyssey, powered by its mecha-fluidic technology. In the wake of the Hastroid launched in early 2022, the Moon Runner was unveiled during Watches and Wonders, offering a new moon to lovers of sophisticated watches with a powerful personality. The voluminous blue central depiction of the Earth’s satellite out against the dial, its base surrounded by two titanium rings displaying the date and month. By enlarging the circles, the minutes are displayed in increments of five, indicated by a rotating white cursor, while the hours float in space at the edge of the bezel, highlighted by the capillary tube containing the colored fluid showing the time. A mechanical and physical feat, this liquid retrograde display is driven by a mechanical movement. Ready for an interstellar journey?

Dans l’univers de la haute horlogerie, beaucoup de dimensions ont déjà été explorées. Dix ans après son lancement, HYT entame une nouvelle odyssée, propulsée par sa technologie méca-fluidique. Dans le sillage de l’Hastroid, mise en orbite début 2022, la Moon Runner a été dévoilée durant Watches and Wonders en offrant une nouvelle lune aux amateurs de montres sophistiquées à forte personnalité. Bleue et centrale, la lune se profile tout en volume. Les deux anneaux en titane qui l’encerclent en contrebas indiquent la date et le mois. En élargissant les cercles, les minutes s’affichent par tranches de cinq pointées, par un curseur blanc rotatif, alors que les heures flottent dans l’espace aux limites de la lunette, soulignées par le tube capillaire contenant le fluide coloré indiquant l’heure. Exploit mécanique et physique, cet affichage rétrograde liquide est animé par un mouvement mécanique. Qui est prêt pour le voyage stellaire ?

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Des finitions de calibre plus soignées, la nouvelle carrure multicouche délicatement ajourée et le mode de construction en sandwich qui rend ces montres HYT plus harmonieuses et élégantes.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The even more meticulous movement finishes; the new delicately openworked multi-layer case middle; and the sandwich-type construction that makes these HYT watches more aesthetically harmonious and elegant.

82 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
Focus HYT

Focus DOXA

SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl

BOÎTIER : carbone forgé, lunette tournante unidirectionnelle, fond plein, étanche à 300m TAILLE : 42,50 x 45mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre Sellita SW200-1 certifié COSC, 28’800 alt/h, 38 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : enduit de SuperLuminova blanc FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date BRACELET : caoutchouc blanc assorti au cadran PRIX : CHF 3’890.–

SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl

CASE: forged carbon, unidirectional rotating bezel, solid back, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 42.50 x 45mm

MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Sellita Caliber SW200-1, COSC certified, 28,800 vph, 38h power reserve

DIAL: white Super-LumiNova coating FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, date STRAP: white rubber matching the dial PRICE: CHF 3,890

A light and airy summer

légèreté

Un été en toute

Doxa surfe sur la vague du succès de la SUB 200 Whitepearl lancée l’année dernière en impulsant une déferlante de blancheur sur l’ensemble de sa collection SUB. A commencer par la fameuse SUB 300 Carbon qui brille à plus d’un titre. Et dans toutes les circonstances ! C’est avant tout dans l’obscurité des abysses, jusqu’à 300 mètres de profondeur, qu’elle révèle sa carte maîtresse : une lisibilité phénoménale grâce à son cadran entièrement enduit de SuperLuminova. Sous l’eau, c’est donc l’ensemble du cadran qui s’illumine. Un éclat qui fonctionne aussi sur la terre ferme, lors des longues soirées d’été. Car cette montre au look tech et aux lignes racées a pour autre avantage un poids plume de seulement 87 grammes : au poignet, on ne la sent pas mais une chose est sûre, elle se remarque !

Doxa is riding the wave of success of the SUB 200 Whitepearl launched last year by sending a wave of whiteness across its entire SUB collection – starting with the famous SUB 300 Carbon which shines in more than one way and in every circumstance! It is above all in the darkness of the abyss, up to 300 meters deep, that it reveals its trump card: phenomenal legibility thanks to its dial entirely coated with Super-LumiNova. Underwater, the entire dial lights up, creating a glow that also works on land during long summer evenings. This watch with its techy look and sleek lines has the added advantage of weighing only 87 grams: you can’t feel it on the wrist, but it definitely stands out!

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La rencontre du carbone combiné à l’effet irisé du cadran qui s’illumine entièrement une fois plongé dans l’obscurité.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The encounter between carbon and the iridescent effect of the dial that lights up completely when plunged into darkness.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

Osmior Tourbillon Régulateur Squelette Art Déco

BOÎTIER : or rose 4N 18 carats, fond saphir, étanche à 50 mètres DIAMÈTRE : 41mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre LL512, 28’800 alt/h, 52 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : or, ajouré FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, tourbillon volant BRACELET : cuir d’alligator cousu main, boucle en or rose 4N 18 carats PRIX : CHF 168’500.–PIÈCE UNIQUE

Art Deco Osmior Skeleton Tourbillon Regulator

CASE: 4N 18K pink gold, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER: 41mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber LL512, 28,800 vph, 52h power reserve DIAL: gold, openworked FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, flying tourbillon STRAP: hand-stitched alligator leather, 4N 18K pink gold buckle PRICE: CHF 168’500 SINGLE-PIECE EDITION

Art déco Art Deco

Passée maître dans les grandes complications ainsi que dans l’art traditionnel du squelettage, la maison L. Leroy présente une pièce dont les lignes graphiques ne sont pas sans rappeler le style Art déco. S’appuyant sur un savoir-faire de plus de 230 ans, l’horloger présente un tourbillon volant accompagné d’un cadran ajouré, dont les découpes sont entièrement réalisées à la main. Cet ajourage laisse également entrevoir les autres découpes présentes sur certains composants du mouvement, qui sont effectuées à l’aide d’une petite scie à main pour être ensuite limées et anglées. Ce travail, qui offre une pénétration optimale de la lumière dans le mouvement, mais que peu d’artistes peuvent réaliser, nécessite deux mois complets de travail. Le motif présent sur le cadran se retrouve également sur les côtés du boîtier ainsi que la masse oscillante. Ce qui apporte une bonne cohérence à cette pièce unique.

A master of grand complications and the traditional art of skeletonization, L.Leroy presents a timepiece whose graphic lines are reminiscent of the Art Deco style. Drawing on more than 230 years of expertise, the watchmaker presents a flying tourbillon teamed with an openworked dial featuring entirely handcrafted cut-outs. This openworking also reveals some of the movement’s components revealed through other cut-outs made with a small hand saw before being filed and chamfered. This craftsmanship enabling light to flood into the movement requires skills possessed by very few artisans and entails two full months of work. The dial motif is picked up on the case sides and the oscillating weight, thereby endowing this one-of-a-kind creation with pleasing aesthetic consistency.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

L’utilisation de la technique de l’ajourage qui se marie parfaitement au concept du tourbillon volant.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The use of the openworking technique that beautifully matches the flying tourbillon concept.

84 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

PATEK PHILIPPE

Patek

Philippe Chronographe monopoussoir 1/10ème de seconde Réf. 5470P

BOÎTE : platine 950, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche 30 m (3 bar)

TAILLE : 41 mm, 13,68 mm d’épaisseur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10, 5 Hz, 48 heures de marche

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, chronographe monopoussoir avec affichage du 10ème de seconde au centre CADRAN : bleu galvanique, index en or gris, aiguilles feuille en or gris, trotteuse du 10e en silicium laqué BRACELET : cuir de veau bleu embossé motif textile, boucle déployante en platine PRIX : sur demande

Patek Philippe 1/10th of a second monopusher chronograph Reference 5470P

CASE: 950 platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m (3 bar) SIZE: 41mm, 13.68mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, manually wound Caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, 5 Hz, 48h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, single push-button chronograph with central tenth-of-a-second display DIAL: galvanic blue, white gold hour-markers, white gold leaf-shaped hands, lacquered silicon tenth-of-a-second hand STRAP: blue calf leather with embossed fabric pattern, platinum folding clasp PRICE: on request

Platinum lab

Laboratoire de platine

Patek Philippe ne court habituellement pas après la performance. Les chiffres, les vitesses, ce n’est pas le genre de la maison. La surprise n’en a été que plus grande quand la marque a révélé sa ref.5470P, premier chronographe de la manufacture à fonctionner à 36’000 alternances par heure. Voilà pour les apparences. En réalité, le geste est tout autre. Il consiste à maintenir au plus haut niveau d’innovation mécanique l’un des bureaux techniques les plus puissants de l’industrie horlogère avec un projet qui repousse toutes les limites. Toutes, sauf celles de la fréquence, puisque les 5 Hz n’ont plus rien d’un exploit. Le calibre de la 5470P est donc un véhicule d’innovations, dont sept font l’objet de nouveaux brevets. Elles portent sur la fonction chronographe, sa durée de marche, sa fiabilité et un nouveau mode de lecture du 10e de seconde, seule justification réelle au passage à 5 Hz. Deux trotteuses se partagent le centre. L’une mesure les secondes et fait un tour par minute. La seconde fait un tour toutes les 12 secondes et permet une lecture fine et claire du 10e sur la minuterie chemin de fer. Le tout dans une boite en platine aux proportions préservées malgré un calibre très complexe, riche de 84 composants de plus que la base sur laquelle il a été élaboré.

Patek Philippe does not usually chase performance as such. Lining up numbers and speeds are not the company’s style. It was thus all the more surprising when the brand revealed its Reference 5470P, the brand’s first chronograph operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. Behind appearances, this unveiling actually involves something quite different: a determination to maintain the highest level of mechanical innovation at one of the watch industry’s most powerful technical offices, thanks to a project that pushes every existing limit – except that of frequency, since 5 Hz is no longer a feat in itself. Caliber 5470P is therefore a vehicle for innovations, seven of which are the subject of new patents. They concern the chronograph function, its power reserve, its reliability and a new mode of reading tenths of a second, the only real justification for the transition to 5 Hz. Two seconds hands share the center: one measures the seconds and makes one full sweep per minute. The other turns once every 12 seconds and enables accurate and clear tenthof-a-second readings on a railway-track scale. The dial is housed in a moderately sized platinum case despite a very complex caliber comprising 84 more components than the base movement on which it was built.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La quête sans relâche de l’innovation mécanique qui maintient Patek Philippe au sommet de son art.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The relentless quest for mechanical innovation that keeps Patek Philippe at the top of its game.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85
Focus

Sélection

Lab Peripheral Dual Time Grande Date

BOÎTE : acier, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche 50m TAILLE : 42 mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique par masse périphérique côté cadran, calibre P421, 42 heures de marche

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, grande date à double guichet, second fuseau horaire excentré CADRAN : bleu, médaillon central rainuré, bord satiné circulaire, aiguilles bâton garnies de matière luminescente

BRACELET : cuir de veau bleu embossé motif alligator, boucle déployante en acier PRIX : CHF 4’980.–

Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date

CASE: steel, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 42mm

MOVEMENT: mechanical with automatic winding by peripheral rotor on the dial side, Caliber P421, 42-hour power reserve

FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, twinaperture big date, off-center second time zone

DIAL: blue, central grooved medallion, circular satin-brushed edge, baton-type hands with luminescent material

STRAP: blue calf leather embossed with an alligator pattern, steel folding clasp

PRICE: CHF 4,980

L’énergie côté

face

Energy

face forward

Over the last ten years or so, we have been seeing an ever-increasing number of automatic winding systems with a peripheral oscillating weight. They have however remained confined to very high-end applications and been systematically housed on the rear side of the movement. Perrelet has decided to break with these two principles in its Lab Peripheral collection, and particularly the Dual Time Big Date model. The brand has long relied on its sister company, Soprod, which has extensive experience in making movements with a dial-side oscillating weight. On this occasion, the device forsakes the semi-circle format meshing in the center, instead switching to the fellowship of the ring, i.e. a peripheral rotor. The latter has nonetheless remained on the dial side. The Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date is thus permanently animated by the circulation of this component, half satin-brushed, half grooved like turbine blades, a nod to another of the brand’s collections. Perrelet has moreover positioned it under the CHF5,000 mark, a surprisingly affordable niche for such a rare configuration, and also complemented by a GMT display and a big date.

Depuis environ dix ans, les systèmes de remontage automatique par masse périphérique se sont doucement multipliés. Mais ils sont restés cantonnés à des applications très haut de gamme, et toujours logées côté fond. Perrelet a décidé de rompre avec ces deux principes par sa collection Lab Peripheral, et en particulier avec le modèle Dual Time Grande Date. La marque s’est appuyée sur sa société sœur, le motoriste Soprod, qui réalise depuis longtemps des mouvements avec masse côté cadran. Cette fois-ci, la masse en question délaisse le format en demicercle engrainant au centre, pour basculer du côté de la communauté de l’anneau, c’est-à-dire des rotors périphériques. Mais celui-ci est resté côté cadran. La Lab Peripheral Dual Time Grande Date est donc en permanence animée par la circulation de ce composant, moitié satiné, moitié rainuré façon pales de turbine, un clin d’œil à une autre collection de la marque. Et d’autre part, Perrelet l’a positionnée sous la barre des CHF 5’000.–, un créneau étonnamment abordable pour une configuration aussi rare, et qui plus est complétée par un affichage GMT et une grande date.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

L’initiative de basculer le remontage automatique par masse périphérique côté cadran crée une animation unique, surtout à cet excellent niveau de prix.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The initiative to switch the peripheral rotor-based automatic winding to the dial side, creating a unique animation, especially at this excellent price level.

86 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
EDITORS’ PICKS
Focus PERRELET

Focus RICHARD

MILLE

Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

BOÎTE : or jaune 3N, titane et céramique TZP noire, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche à 50 m (5 bar) TAILLE : 42,7 x 50 mm, 16,25 mm d’épaisseur

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre squelette RM47 à tourbillon une minute, 72 heures de marche

FONCTIONS : heures et minutes

CADRAN : armure de samouraï en or jaune, sculptée, gravée et peinte à la main, double face, aiguilles sabre BRACELET : uréthane avec boucle déployante SÉRIE LIMITÉE DE 75 PIÈCES

PRIX : sur demande

Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

CASE: 3N yellow gold, titanium and black TZP ceramic, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m (5 bar)

SIZE: 42.7 x 50mm, 16.25mm thick

MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound, skeletonized Caliber RM47 with one-minute tourbillon, 72-hour power reserve

FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes

DIAL: yellow gold samurai armor, carved, engraved and hand-painted, double-sided, sword-type hands STRAP: urethane with folding clasp 75-PIECE LIMITED SERIES

PRICE: on request

Le Bushido

de Richard Mille

Les pièces que l’on peut qualifier de métiers d’art tiennent une place particulière dans les collections Richard Mille. Connue pour ses complications et son hyper sportivité, la marque n’en cultive pas moins une facette artisanale et artistique extraordinairement soignée, et aux thématiques multiples. Dernier exemple en date, la RM 47 Tourbillon est inspirée par la culture japonaise, et en particulier celle des samouraïs. Dans la boîte en or jaune et céramique, la marque a logé un calibre à tourbillon squelette comme c’est son habitude. Il s’efface cependant derrière une paire de micro sculptures thématiques qui le recouvrent sur ses deux faces. Avec un sens de la précision et de la symbolique consommé, avec un luxe de minutie, Richard Mille a imaginé cette petite œuvre d’artisanat d’art : une armure de samouraï sur son présentoir, en particulier kabuto, menpō et une paire de katana, soit casque, masque et sabres. La RM 47 déborde de détails esthétiques qui renvoient à l’histoire et à l’iconographie japonaise. Mais plus encore, cette édition limitée est représentative de l’éthique culturelle et de l’esthétique horlogère de Richard Mille. En un mot, de son Bushido.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Bushido

Artistic craft models hold a special place in the Richard Mille collections. Known for its horological complications and hyper-sporty aesthetic, the brand nevertheless cultivates an extraordinarily artisanal and artistic side to its work, featuring multiple themes. The latest example is the RM 47 Tourbillon, inspired by Japanese culture, and in particular that of the samurai. The yellow gold and ceramic case houses one of the brand’s characteristic skeleton tourbillon movements, but which lies hidden behind a pair of thematic micro-sculptures covering it on both sides. Driven by a consummate sense of precision and symbolism, as well as extremely meticulous care, Richard Mille has devised this miniature work of artistic craftsmanship depicting a suit of samurai armor notably featuring a kabuto, menpō and a pair of katana, i.e. a helmet, mask and swords. The RM 47 is brimming with aesthetic details referring to Japanese history and iconography. But above and beyond that, this limited edition is representative of Richard Mille’s cultural ethos and watchmaking aesthetic. In a word, its Bushido.

La richesse symbolique de la réalisation et l’exécution d’un raffinement extrême de cette Richard Mille métiers d’art très masculine.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY The symbolic wealth of the realization and the extremely refined execution of this intensely masculine Richard Mille artistic crafts timepiece.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 87
Richard Mille’s
TIME TO RACE UNIQUE TIMEPIECE louismoinet.com ZAKAA Gana 53, Maitama +234 8140000264 @zakaa_official

Bvlgari

La quête de la finesse absolue The quest for absolute thinness

En l’espace de six ans, l’Octo Finissimo a décroché six records mondiaux de finesse. Une épopée horlogère signée Bvlgari qui continue de bousculer les codes esthétiques de l’horlogerie traditionnelle en révolutionnant les standards de l’ultra-plat.

In the space of six years, Octo Finissimo has set six world records for thinness. An epic watchmaking trail blazed by Bvlgari, which continues to overturn traditional watch industry codes by revolutionizing the norms of ultra-thinness.

90 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
Saga

Elle ne ressemble à aucune autre. Ni ronde, ni carrée, c’est en un singulier octogone que sa silhouette s’esquisse. Par l’allure atypique de son boîtier composé de 110 facettes, combinaison savante d’arrêtes et d’aplats, d’angles acérés et de lignes courbes, la bien nommée Octo lancée en 2012 a ouvert la voie au formidable déploiement de créativité technique et esthétique de l’horlogerie Bvlgari. « Nous cherchions à l’époque à développer un modèle qui soit dans l’esprit de la démarche créative de Bvlgari : différent, disruptif et ne reprenant pas les codes traditionnels du design horloger », rappelle Fabrizio Buonamassa, Directeur de la création de produits. « Une voie s’est imposée avec l’Octo dans la combinaison du cercle et de l’octogone. Nous avons aussi puisé aux sources de notre ancrage historique romain qui est riche en signes et en symboles. L’un de ces signes, dans le cas d’Octo, est la forme du dôme octogonal qui compose le toit de la Basilique de Maxence, à Rome. »

Audacieuse et charismatique, l’architecturale Octo n’aura pas attendu le nombre des années pour se hisser au statut d’icône de l’horlogerie du 20e siècle. En 2014, tout juste deux ans après le lancement de la collection, Bvlgari repousse les limites de sa créativité et crée à nouveau la surprise avec l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon qui s’impose alors comme le tourbillon volant le plus plat jamais réalisé. Un premier record du monde de finesse d’une longue série pour cette collection qui incarne, sans doute plus que toute autre, la quintessence de l’élégance formelle et de la virtuosité technique. « Octo Finissimo représente la fusion parfaite entre l’ADN italien et l’expertise suisse », confirme Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO de la maison romaine. « D’une part, nos racines italiennes reflètent le design, l’audace et notre goût d’aller au-delà de l’existant. La valeur ajoutée de la ligne Finissimo s’exprime également dans notre maîtrise absolue de l’horlogerie haut de gamme, dans le respect des standards qualitatifs les plus élevés. » Depuis 2014, les modèles ultraplats Octo Finissimo ont remporté près de 60 récompenses et six records du monde de finesse. Une fantastique saga pour la reine incontestée de l’extra-plat. 

It is unique in its kind. Its shape is neither round nor square, but instead a distinctive octagon. Through the atypical look of its 110-facetted case, a skillful combination of edges and flat surfaces, sharp angles and curved lines, the aptly named Octo launched in 2012 paved the way for a formidable display of technical and aesthetic creativity by Bvlgari watchmaking. As Fabrizio Buonomassa, the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director recalls: “At the time, we were looking to develop a model that would be in the spirit of the Bvlgari creative approach: different, disruptive and not based on the traditional codes of watch design. The Octo was an obvious choice in the combination of a circle and an octagon. We also drew on our historical Roman roots with their wealth of signs and symbols. When it comes to the Octo, one of these emblems is the shape of the octagonal dome composing the roof of the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome.”

Bold and charismatic by nature, the architectural Octo did not take long to become a 20th century watchmaking icon. In 2014, just two years after the launch of the collection, Bvlgari once again pushed the limits of its creativity and sprang a fresh surprise with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which asserted itself as the thinnest flying tourbillon ever made. This was the first of a long series of world records for thinness achieved by this collection which embodies – probably more than any other – the quintessence of formal elegance and technical virtuosity. “Octo Finissimo represents the perfect fusion of Italian DNA and Swiss expertise,” confirms Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of the Romebased Maison. “On the one hand, our Italian roots reflect design, boldness and our determination to go beyond all that already exists. The added value of the Finissimo line is also expressed in our absolute mastery of top-of-the-range watchmaking, in compliance with the highest quality standards.” Since 2014, Octo Finissimo’s ultra-thin models have won nearly 60 awards and six world thinness records. A fantastic saga for the undisputed ruler of ultra-thin horology. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

Flash-back en 2014 : la quête de finesse occupe depuis longtemps les plus prestigieuses maisons horlogères quand Bvlgari réalise un pas décisif dans le domaine de l’extra-plat en levant le voile sur l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Avec une épaisseur de seulement 1,95 mm, ce mouvement constitué de 249 composants s’impose d’emblée comme le tourbillon volant le plus fin au monde. Du jamais vu ! Cette prouesse est le fruit de solutions innovantes telles que l’usage de roulements à billes pour les parties mobiles du mouvement ou la suppression de la raquetterie. Résultat : une virtuosité technique doublée d’une remarquable sobriété esthétique pour cette Octo Finissimo Tourbillon dont le boîtier en platine ouvert sur un cadran noir laqué et poli affiche une épaisseur de seulement 5 mm.

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

BOÎTIER : platine DIAMÈTRE : 40 mm MOUVEMENT : Tourbillon volant manufacture extra-plat à remontage manuel, épaisseur de 1,95 mm, réserve de marche de 55 heures FONCTIONS : heures, minutes CADRAN : noir laqué et poli FOND : saphir BRACELET : cuir d’alligator noir, boucle ardillon

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

CASE: platinum DIAMETER: 40mm MOVEMENT: ultra-thin, Manufacture-made mechanical manual-winding flying tourbillon movement, 1.95mm thick, 55h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes DIAL: black lacquered and polished

CASEBACK: sapphire STRAP: black alligator leather, pin buckle

Flashback to 2014: the quest for thinness had long since been a concern for the most prestigious watch Maisons when Bvlgari took a decisive step in the field of ultra-thin watches by unveiling the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. At just 1.65mm thick, this 249-part movement immediately established itself as the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon. This unprecedented feat stemmed from innovative solutions such as using ball bearings for the mobile parts of the movement or eliminating index-adjustment. The result was technical virtuosity coupled with remarkable aesthetic understatement for this Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a 5mm-thick platinum case framing a black lacquered and polished dial.

2014

Octo Finissimo Répétition Minutes

BOÎTIER : titane DIAMÈTRE : 40 mm MOUVEMENT : manufacture Répétition Minutes ultra-plat à remontage manuel, calibre BVL 362, épaisseur de 3,12 mm, réserve de marche de 42 heures FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde CADRAN : titane FOND : saphir BRACELET : cuir d’alligator noir vulcanisé, boucle déployante

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

CASE: titanium DIAMETER: 40mm MOVEMENT: ultra-thin, Manufacture-made mechanical manual-winding Minute Repeater movement, Caliber BVL 362, 3.12mm thick, 42-hour power

reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL: titanium CASEBACK: sapphire STRAP: vulcanized black alligator leather, folding clasp

Octo Finissimo Répétition Minutes

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

En 2016, l’aventure se poursuit avec un modèle remarquablement épuré. Un boîtier d’une incroyable finesse, taillé dans le titane, un cadran ton sur ton sobrement ciselé dans le même matériau, un bracelet en alligator noir… A première vue, rien ne laisse présager l’extraordinaire complexité du mécanisme à l’œuvre en coulisses. Si l’Octo Finissimo Répétition Minutes se distingue par son extrême élégance, elle confirme surtout l’extraordinaire savoir-faire technique de Bvlgari dans la confection des montres à complications extra-plates. Avec une épaisseur de seulement 3,12 mm, cet innovant mécanisme de répétition minutes manufacturé en interne offre à la maison romaine son deuxième record mondial de finesse. 

In 2016, the adventure continued with a remarkably refined model. An incredibly slim case carved from a titanium, a restrained tone-on-tone dial crafted from the same material, a black alligator strap… At first glance, nothing hints at the extraordinary complexity of the mechanism at work behind the scenes. While the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is distinguished by its extreme elegance, it confirmed Bvlgari’s extraordinary technical expertise in the production of ultra-thin watches with horological complications. At just 3.12mm thick, the innovative in-house minute repeater mechanism brought the Rome-based Maison its second world record for thinness. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 93
2016

Octo Finissimo Automatique

BOÎTIER : titane sablé DIAMÈTRE : 40 mm

MOUVEMENT : manufacture mécanique à remontage automatique par micro-rotor, calibre BVL 138 Finissimo, épaisseur de 2,23 mm, réserve de marche de 60 heures

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde décentrée

CADRAN : titane FOND : saphir

BRACELET : cuir d’alligator noir avec boucle ardillon ou en titane avec boucle déployante

Octo Finissimo Automatic

CASE: sandblasted titanium DIAMETER: 40mm MOVEMENT: Manufacture-made mechanical movement with automatic winding by micro-rotor, Caliber BVL 138 Finissimo, 2.23mm thick, 60-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small offcentered seconds hand DIAL: titanium

CASEBACK: sapphire STRAP/BRACELET: Black alligator leather with pin buckle or titanium bracelet with folding clasp

Octo Finissimo Automatique

Octo Finissimo Automatic

En 2017, une nouvelle question se pose : et si l’extra-plat était une complication horlogère à part entière ? Bvlgari répond par la positive avec un troisième record du monde de finesse. Après le tourbillon et la répétition minutes, c’est au tour du mouvement automatique le plus plat du marché de voir le jour. A nouveau, le design minimaliste de l’Octo Finissimo sert d’écrin à ce nouveau mécanisme dont l’épaisseur n’excède pas 2,23 mm. Pour relever le défi, les concepteurs du calibre BVL 138 Finissimo ont combiné plusieurs solutions inédites, notamment l’intégration d’un micro-rotor en platine. Un gain d’espace permettant de réduire à l’essentiel le volume du boîtier dont le profil affiche une épaisseur de seulement 5,15 mm. Ce modèle sera d’ailleurs récompensé l’année de son lancement par le prix de la Montre Homme au GPHG.

In 2017, a new question arose: what if ultra-thinness were to be considered as a watchmaking complication in its own right? Bvlgari responded in the affirmative with a third world record for thinness. After the tourbillon and the minute repeater came the turn of the thinnest automatic movement ever introduced. Once again, the minimalist design of the Octo Finissimo served as a showcase for this new mechanism measuring just 2.23mm thin. In rising to this challenge, the design engineers of BVL Caliber 138 Finissimo combined several novel solutions, including the integration of a platinum micro-rotor. This space-saving option served to reduce the volume of the case, with its slender 5.15mm profile, to the bare essentials. This model was honored in its launch year by the Men’s Watch Prize at the GPHG.

94 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
2017

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatique BOÎTIER : titane sablé DIAMÈTRE : 42 mm MOUVEMENT : tourbillon manufacture squelette, mécanique à remontage automatique, BVL 288 Finissimo, épaisseur de 1,95 mm, réserve de marche de 52 heures FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde CADRAN : squeletté FOND : saphir BRACELET : titane sablé, boucle déployante

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic CASE: sandblasted titanium DIAMETER: 42mm MOVEMENT: Skeleton mechanical self-winding Manufacture-made tourbillon movement, BVL 288 Finissimo, 1.95mm thick, 52-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds DIAL: skeletonized CASEBACK: sapphire BRACELET: sandblasted titanium, folding clasp

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatique

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic

En 2018, quatre ans après avoir battu son premier record avec le tourbillon à remontage manuel le plus fin au monde, Bvlgari domine à nouveau les débats en matière d’horlogerie extra-plate. Avec une épaisseur de 1,95 mm, le mouvement de l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatique impose un nouveau standard de finesse grâce à une combinaison innovante de solutions techniques. Au système de roulement à billes éprouvé avec succès en 2014 sur son tourbillon volant à remontage manuel, Bvlgari ajoute une masse oscillante périphérique en or blanc et aluminium. Une construction mécanique virtuose que la marque choisit de mettre à nu côté pile comme côté face de la montre : 3,95 mm d’épaisseur pour son boîtier en titane sablé, une première

In 2018, four years after breaking its first record with the world’s thinnest manual-winding tourbillon, Bvlgari once again stole the show in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking. The 1.95mm movement of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic set a new standard of thinness thanks to an innovative combination of technical solutions. In addition to the ball-bearing system successfully tested in 2014 on its manual-winding flying tourbillon, Bvlgari introduced a peripheral white gold and aluminum oscillating weight. A virtuoso mechanical construction that the brand has chosen to expose on both sides of 3.95mm thick case made in sandblasted titanium, a first! 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 95

!

Octo Finissimo Chronographe GMT Automatique

BOÎTIER : titane DIAMÈTRE : 42 mm MOUVEMENT : manufacture mécanique à remontage automatique, BVL 318, épaisseur de 3,30 mm, réserve de marche de 55 heures FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, chronographe, second fuseau horaire CADRAN : titane sablé FOND : saphir BRACELET : titane sablé, boucle déployante

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

CASE: titanium DIAMETER: 42mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding Manufacture-made movement, BVL 318, 3.30mm thick, 55-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, second timezone

DIAL: sandblasted titanium CASEBACK: sapphire BRACELET: sandblasted titanium, folding clasp

Octo Finissimo Chronographe GMT Automatique

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

La saga se poursuit et atteint de nouveaux sommets en 2019 avec le lancement de l’Octo Finissimo Chronographe GMT automatique. Signe distinctif ? L’épaisseur d’à peine 3,3 mm de son mouvement manufacture qui offre non seulement les fonctions classiques du chronographe mais permet également l’affichage d’un second fuseau horaire via l’ajout d’un bouton poussoir situé à 9 h. L’heure d’origine ou « home time » est affichée sur le compteur à 3 h : gradué sur 24 heures, il indique le jour ou la nuit. Récompensée par le Prix de la montre chronographe au GPHG 2019, cette réalisation de haut vol mêle à nouveau l’expertise horlogère à une conception visionnaire du design. Un pur concentré de technologie et d’élégance qui permet à Bvlgari de briser un nouveau record de finesse, le 5e depuis 2014.

The saga continued and reaches new heights in 2019 with the launch of the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. Its distinctive features was its 3.3mm thick Manufacture-made movement not only offering classic chronograph functions but also powering a dualtime display via an additional pusher 9 o’clock. The original time or “home time” is displayed on a 24-hour scale at 3 o’clock also bearing day and night indications. Winner of the Chronograph Watch Prize at the GPHG in 2019, this high-flying model once again combines watchmaking expertise with visionary design. A concentrated blend of of technology and elegance that enabled Bvlgari to break a new record for thinness – its fifth since 2014.

96 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES
2019

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronographe Squelette Automatique Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph

Skeleton Automatic

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

BOÎTIER : titane satiné DIAMÈTRE : 42 mm

MOUVEMENT : manufacture mécanique squelette à remontage automatique, BVL 388, épaisseur de 3,50 mm, réserve de marche de 52 heures FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, tourbillon, chronographe mono-poussoir CADRAN : squeletté gris mat FOND : saphir BRACELET : titane satiné, boucle déployante

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon

Chronograph Skeleton Automatic

CASE: satin-finish titanium DIAMETER: 42mm MOVEMENT: skeletonized mechanical selfwinding Manufacture-made movement, BVL 388, 3.50mm thick, 52-hour power reserve

FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, tourbillon, single-pusher chronograph DIAL: matt gray, skeletonized CASEBACK: sapphire

BRACELET: satin-finished titanium, folding clasp

Alors que le cœur de l’horlogerie de Bvlgari bat au rythme des records successifs engrangés depuis 2014, la saga Octo Finissimo prouve une fois encore qu’elle n’a toujours pas atteint ses limites. Avec une épaisseur de boîtier de seulement 7,40 mm, l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronographe Automatique remporte un nouveau record mondial, le 6e en 6 ans. Ici, la prouesse de Bvlgari tient à la combinaison audacieuse d’un chronographe mono-poussoir avec double-compteur et d’un tourbillon dans un mouvement manufacture squelette ultra-plat d’une épaisseur phénoménale de 3,50 mm. Un véritable chef-d’œuvre de miniaturisation technique qui confirme la place unique occupée par Bvlgari dans la quête de l’ultime finesse.

While the heart of Bvlgari’s watchmaking continues to beat to the rhythm of the successive records set since 2014, the Octo Finissimo epic once again proves that it has not yet reached its limits. With a case thickness of just 7.40mm, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronographc Automatic set a new world record, the sixth in six years. In this model, Bvlgari’s prowess lies in the daring combination of a single-pusher double-counter chronograph and a tourbillon, housed in a phenomenally thin 3.50mm skeletonized Manufacture-made movement. A veritable masterpiece of technical miniaturization that confirms the unique place occupied by Bvlgari in the quest for ultimate thinness.

Chronographe Squelette Automatique
2020

Sélection

2021

Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

CASE: 40mm diameter x 5.80mm height- sandblasted titanium case OR satin and polished 950 platinum case - sandblasted titanium crown with ceramic insert or white gold crown - 3 correctors set in caseband to adjust date, month and day - sapphire crystal front and back30m water-resistance

DIAL: sandblasted titanium dial or blue lacquered dial - retrograde date at noon and leap year at 6 o’clockdays of the week and months in lower segment of dial - skeletonised hands

MOVEMENT: Bvlgari in-house calibre BVL 305automatic integrated perpetual calendar with microrotor - 36.6mm x 2.75mm - 35 jewels - 21,600vph -60h power reserve - hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with day of the week, month and retrograde date and leap year

BRACELET/STRAP: sandblasted titanium bracelet with folding clasp on titanium model, Blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle on the platinum model

Octo Finissimo Calendrier perpétuel

Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

TThe Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar marks Bvlgari’s seventh record in the arena of ultra-thin watches. The 2.75mm thin automatic QP movement is housed in a 5.80mm case made of rare tantalum, a beguiling metal that is resistant to corrosion, biocompatible, twice as heavy as steel and twice as hard as titanium.

The layout of the perpetual calendar pays homage to the stylistic imprint of Gerald Genta; a brand Bvlgari acquired in 2000. In honour of Genta’s retrograde displays, the QP features retrograde indications for the date dominating the top half of the dial and the leap years tucked in at the bottom; the days of the week and months are positioned in the lower half of the dial.

98 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Octo Finissimo Ultra

CASE: 40mm diameter x 1.80mm heightoctagonal case in sandblasted titanium with a tungsten carbide plate with anthracite DLC treatment - crown located on the back - 10m water-resistant

DIAL: Openworked structure - hours and minutes counter, small seconds counterblack PVD-treated hands

MOVEMENT: BVL Calibre 180 - joint development with Concepto - ultra-thin hand-wound movement - 1.50mm height - 21 jewels –

BRACELET: ultra-thin sandblasted titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp

2022 Octo Finissimo Ultra Octo Finissimo Ultra

WThe Octo Finissimo Ultra, maintains all the aesthetic standards of Octo’s nature, with an unmistakable monochrome style in sandblasted titanium and an ultra-thin octagonal case with an integrated bracelet, only 1.50 mm thick. This timepiece architecture underlines the indissoluble link between the collection and the maison’s Roman origins, drawing inspiration from the geometric motifs that decorate the arches of the Pantheon in Rome

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 99

Sélection

EDITORS’ PICKS
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LIMITED SERIES OF 50 PIECES. NOW AVAILABLE IN ZAKAA, GANA 53 MAITAMA 900271 ABUJA, NIGERIA. hole19group.com
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Sélection

Wrist Stories

The experts dream watch

The question is simple: what is your dream watch? Six influential players in the watchmaking world told us which one they would like to see on their wrist one day.

“For the watch of my dreams, I immediately see the new Greubel Forsey GMT Sports Ref. GF05B. It has been speaking to me for months. It is sporty, yet elegant, chic, dressy and totally comfortable on the wrist, quite a stunner! The new direction of Greubel is amazing; not necessarily easy on the pocket, but definitely a collectors’ item and a must in my collection.”

“There are many watches that I would love to own but my personal favorite is probably the stunning and iconic Reverso Classic Duetto from the watchmaker’s watchmaker: Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Reverso Duetto Medium stays not only in the classic look of the collection but also in the mechanical gimmick present – a watch with two faces fitted with an automatic movement. All this in a relatively small case size fitted with two rows of diamonds.”

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WRIST STORIES

“The Louis moinet spacewalker is a masterpiece that fasci nated me from the first day it was released. As an admirer of Alexei Leonov, seeing a watch dedicated to him with all the finest details of his expedition deliberately displayed in a 47.4mm case was mind blowing . From the Outsize tourbillon at 12’o clock ( world first satellite tourbillon ) representing Leonov’s spaceship on his Voskhod 2 mission , to a diamond( Russian word for diamond is Almaz) revolving round the tourbillon representing Almaz-2( Leonov’s code name during the mission) to the special hand aventurine painting technique on the dial showing the starred sky and nebula . This watch is truly a piece of artd.”

Sokipiri Graham-Douglas

“The watch of my dreams is a watch I own, a one of one Louis Moinet Piece Unique; It doesn’t get better than this. Its unique carbon dial is a sight for days with the unbelievable bidirectional tourbillons in a Gold case.

Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet, often sets aside convention, conceiving ingenious and highly unusual displays; the double tourbillon perfectly illustrates this. The two tourbillon cages sit high above the epidermis of the dial, granting a fabulous three dimensional allure. This piece is nothing short of a magical machine.”

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Afolabi Ajidahun

“The watch of my dreams?!... This is a tough one. Do I go for a double Tourbillon or a more Complication of a perpetual calendar?...I will go with the Breguet Classique Grande Complication Double Tourbillon White Gold 44mm Ref. 5347. A master piece! Perfection in the art of watchmaking. The two red emeralds embedded in a polished Silver Dial is highlighted by Roman numeral hour makers...such a beauty to behold through a Sapphire Crystal glass in a 44mm case with a White Gold crown that extends into a Crocodile Leather strap...I could stare at the time all day.”

Biodun Feuser-Ajidahun

“The watch of my dreams would be my next watch. It was only when I met my husband that I became more attuned with horology, and more interested in watches, and since then I have created a little collection for myself, but I never look too far ahead. So my next watch is always the watch of my dreams. I have a very special Hublot piece on the way, already ordered and looking forward to receiving it. It’s a full diamond pave Hublot Big Bang One Click. I love this piece because I can change the strap so effortlessly. The strap can be changed not only in color but in material, the actual watch is like a completely different watch.”

EDITORS’ PICKS

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This app is developed by GMT Publishing exclusively for GMT and WorldTempus readers.

DOWNLOAD NOW Articles from our experts Exclusive videos Audio articles (for club members) GMT digital magazine (for club members) THE WORLDTEMPUS APP Free Access to the World of Watchmaking

12th ART

12e Art

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Disponible en anglais et français, le premier chapitre de la saga

The Millennium Watch Book condense tout ce qu’il faut savoir sur l’horlogerie du troisième millénaire, incontournable dans une bonne bibliothèque.

Available in English and French, the first chapter of The Millennium Watch Book saga is a distilled expression of everything worth knowing about third-millennium watchmaking and a must-have for any good library.

The Millennium Watch Book

Le 3e volume en mode plongée The third volume in diving mode

Devant le succès du livre The Millennium Watch Book (« L’essentiel sur l’horlogerie depuis l’an 2000 ») paru en 2020, nous avons décidé de créer la collection The Millennium Watch Book : chaque année un nouveau livre thématique jusqu’en 2030, pour tout comprendre et savoir sur les montres contemporaines dans un domaine bien précis. En 2021, année du 220e anniversaire de l’invention du tourbillon, notre maison d’édition a donc publié The Millennium Watch Book Tourbillons, 200 pages généreusement illustrées et rédigées par une douzaine de spécialistes sur ce sujet, qui fait vibrer les passionnés autant que les horlogers des petites et grandes marques. Notre comité de rédaction a notamment sélectionné les 50 montres à tourbillon lancées au troisième millénaire qu’il faut considérer dans sa collection. Nous venons de répéter cet exercice avec les 50 montres de plongée (mécaniques) les plus intéressantes du marché pour notre troisième tome.

Following the success of The Millennium Watch Book (“The essentials of watchmaking since the year 2000”) published in 2020, we decided to create The Millennium Watch Book collection: each year a new book until 2030, focused on specific themes aimed at helping readers understand and know everything about contemporary watches in a given field. In 2021, the year of the 220th anniversary of the invention of the tourbillon, we published The Millennium Watch Book Tourbillons featuring 200 generously illustrated pages written by a dozen specialists on this subject, which is delighting enthusiasts as well as watchmakers of small and large brands. Our editorial committee selected the 50 tourbillon watches launched in the third millennium that should be considered in any good collection. We are repeating this exercise for the 50 most worthwhile (mechanical) diving watches on the market to be featured in our third volume.

Tome 2022 The 2022 volume
Collection complète en 2030 Collection to be completed by 2030

Les deux premiers tomes de la collection sont disponibles immédiatement sur THE-WATCH-BOOK.COM ainsi que le troisième au prix avantageux de souscription.

The first two volumes of the collection are available immediately via THE-WATCH-BOOK.COM, while the third can be pre-ordered at a favorable subscription rate.

En 2022, c’est donc le thème de la montre de plongée que nous abordons en profondeur dans The Millennium Watch Book, avec la même approche « entertaining » que les précédents : diversité des approches rédactionnelles pour varier les plaisirs, rigueur de l’information mais sans se prendre au sérieux, photos en grand format pour en prendre plein la vue.

Le cadeau idéal pour les amoureux de belles montres et beaux livres, à commander à prix de souscription dès maintenant pour une parution fin octobre.

In 2022, it is therefore the theme of the diving watch that we address in depth in The Millennium Watch Book, with the same “entertaining” approach as the previous ones: a diversity of editorial approaches to maintain pleasurable variety; rigorous information yet without an overly intellectual approach; along with large-size photos worth admiring at length.

The ideal gift for lovers of beautiful watches and books, to be ordered now at subscription prices and slated for publication at the end of October.

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Zoom events POLO

Access Bank Polo Tournament

Seeking to improve the State of education in Nigeria, Access Bank has raised $1.7 million at its Charity Polo Tournament held at The Guards Polo Club, Egham, Surrey, United Kingdom; to be directed towards the building and equipping of over 100 classroom blocks in the less developed areas of Nigeria.

The Polo tournament, which is executed in partnership with Fifth Chukker and UNICEF, is an extension of Access Bank’s efforts to support anti-poverty and anti-HIV/AIDS campaigns in Nigeria. This is the first edition of the UK-based tournament to be held since the outbreak of COVID-19 pandemic.

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Zoom events

DAA TAKES US BACK TO DUBAI WATCH WEEK

The last edition of the renowned educational and cultural Dubai Watch Week returned to the horological scene with its focus 100% centered on transferring knowledge of craftsmanship, and our Editor in Chief, Deremi Ajidahun was present to capture it all.

Brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and LVMH headlined the DWW alongside over 40 watch brands showcased to enthusiasts and collectors.

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DAA @ 60

Nigerian born, Swiss educated, World renowned retail entrepreneur, Deremi Ajidahun, celebrated his diamond jubilee with friends and family in grand style in the great city of Dreams!

Mr Ajidahun, father to five amazing adults and grandfather to two most adorable granddaughters, who recently turned 60 has a thirty year track record in building and growing luxury and lifestyle business in Nigeria, Switzerland and most recently in Dubai where HNZ have opened their latest office.

A very strong family man, like he shared “my Family is my strength and creativity, that brings me Joy“ this admirable trait can be seen throughout his operations, business and social activities.

CEO’s, industry VIP friends and family from all over the world celebrated Nigeria’s first member of the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury. They took time and pleasure to arrive in Dubai for the week long extravaganza put on by his most elegant and beautiful wife, Abiodun Feuser-Ajidahun. With several events across Dubai; the fine foods, fine wines and entertainment was endless due to their generosity and Mrs Ajidahun’s attention to detail.

GMT Africa was invited to capture some of these precious moments.

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BIRTHDAY

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GMT Party @ Geneva Watch Days 2022

Every year, the official GMT Party is a staple of the horological calendar in Geneva. In 2022, the famed event was held as the official part of the Geneva Watch Days programme with the launch of GMT GCC.

Brand CEO’s, industry personalities and VIP guests were welcomed by GMT GCC Editor in Chief, Deremi Ajidahun and also hosted by the GMT family. It was an amazing evening of unwinding and celebration after a long (but exciting) day of meetings, interviews and presentations at GWD.

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Watches & Wonder 2022

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 was a momentous occasion for both the watch industry and watch enthusiasts. With 38 top brands showcasing their latest creations to a crowd of nearly 22,000 visitors and a global digital audience of over 300 million, the event was a resounding success. The largest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva lived up to its billing as a «salon of many wonders,» with a spirit of innovation and creativity evident in the numerous international launches and the wide range of physical and digital offerings, including panel discussions and keynotes that sparked engaging conversations and garnered hundreds of millions of views on social media.

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We find innovative solutions to meet al l your needs as athletes, teams, glob al and corporate customers.

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Home of Premium Retailing

The luxury retail industry has seen tremendous growth in Africa! These retailers specialize in delivering an experience with highend goods that are characterized by high quality, and a high degree of exclusivity.

Located in Gana 53 luxury Hub in Nigeria’s capital city, Abuja, Discover Africa’s super retailers!

ZAKAA

Influencing the world of horology

Diving into the art of watchmaking innovation, Zakaa is your destination for LVMH brands like official timekeeper partner of the 2022 Qatar World Cup, Hublot, TagHeuer and Bulgari timepieces amongst other 20 world class watch brands who entrusts Zakaa with sole distributorship of their watches in the region.

Zakaa is reinventing the business of luxury retail in Nigeria. Zakaa boutiques are designed to deliver an experience that is just as premium as its products.

This brand has set itself as an authority not just locally as it is led by Managing Director, Deremi Ajidahun who set Africa on the global map in the world of horology following his nominationonto the Jury of the “Oscars of Watchmaking” GPHG amongst other international recognitions.

Zakaa is located in Gana 53 Luxury Hub, Maitama where it has mono boutiques for some of its brands, and the official retailer of Hublot in Nigeria Transcorp Hilton Hotel.

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NETTETAL

Luxury Furniture and Fragrance Destination

Established in 1997, Nettetal is a Furniture, Gifts, Decor, Home and Body Fragrance destination. Over the past decade they have earned an excellent reputation for unique and carefully selected range, competitive prices and the service it provides to its valued clients.

Nettetal represents luxury furniture brands such as Visionnaire Home Philosophy, Luxury Living (Bentley Home, Luxence Living), Kare and launched Trussadi Casa and Versace Home in the last quarter of 2022.

Fragrances are personal to the Nettetal brand, Its CEO, Mrs Biodun Ajidahun describes fragrances as her “happy place”. Nettetal offers fragrances from global brands like; Dr Vranjes, Locherber, Onno, Ormonde Jayne, Lalique, Yankee candles, Carmani amongst other amazing home and body fragrances.

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PERFUME PRIVE

The heaven of Niche Fragrances

Perfume Prive provides a comfortable and relaxing environment to experience an incredible selection of independent niche perfumes. This scent bar helps premium fragrance lovers navigate the rich and colorful sea of niche and independent fragrances.

The environment is reminiscent of a true scent experience center, where you can sample extensive collections at your pace and a truly social network where like minded and friendly people get together.

An integral part of Perfume Prive’s experience stores is its perfume portfolio, which includes Fragrance Du Bois, Initio, Xerjoff, Widian, Parfums De Marly, Ormonde Jayne, Ojar, Oman Luxury among others, designed to offer a rich scent experience.

Perfume Prive’s experience centers are located at Gana 53 Luxury Hub, Maitama and 9 Usuma Close, Maitama with several points of sale @ Kare Boutique, Mall 55 Kumasi Street, @ 5 Sanusi Fafunwa Street, Victoria Island Lagos and @ 14 Azikiwe Road Rivers, Port Harcourt.

Though not located in Gana 53, Abuja this luxury retail brand is worthy of mention because of the “Tender, Love and Care” it delivers that makes every customer feel special and has become Lagos’ destination for interior pieces and fragrances.

The Luxury Collection (TLC)

“Tender, Love and Care”

When you step into The Luxury Collection you feel that “TLC ‘’ from the atmosphere, from the sales executives, from the items that are sold, specially curated, sourced and handpicked by its Managing Director, Chloe Olumide.

TLC offers a range of Fragrances from Locherber, Baobab, Millefiori, and are currently expanding its fragrance collection to include more brands like Ormonde Jayne, Xerjoff, amongst other niche fragrances. TLC also offers interior accessories, furniture, household items, seasonal gifts/hampers, objet d’art and much more from amazing brands like Kare amongst other German brands.

Located @ 5 Sanusi Fafunwa Street, Victoria Island Lagos, TLC helps you find a gift for a loved one or for your home.

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WHAT MAKES A GRAND SEIKO?

The devil is in their detailed dials; the Japanese brand takes a moment to explain the design principles behind their timepieces.

‘JAPANESENESS;’ CREATING THE IMPOSSIBLE

Grand Seiko Japanese watchmaking is entirely unique; their timepieces are handcrafted by Takumi craftspeople whose work is never done, constantly striving to make the most accurate, beautiful and legible watch possible.

A FRAMEWORK FOR DESIGN: EVOLUTION 9

‘Evolution 9’ is a new collection of Grand Seiko timepieces. They represent a framework of beauty; a design guide created for and by Grand Seiko engineers. This kind of design ‘grammar’ is a tradition for the brand since the design team realised in 1967 that watches with sharper angles and distortion-free surfaces “sparkle with quality” and needed the brilliance of light.

THE LIGHTNESS OF BEAUTY

Light and shadow are founding stones of Japanese aesthetics. Their balance stretches across the Japanese appreciation of beauty, from architecture to gardens to art. Their harmonies and contradictions across the watch dial are carefully engineered to make the face of a Grand Seiko legible and calming.

ENGINEERING STYLE FOR NOW

Though the ‘Evolution 9’ collection pulls from Grand Seiko’s past, namely the ‘Grand Seiko Style’ first embodied by the iconic 44GS from 1967, it is a new, forward-thinking approach to Grand Seiko’s contemporary design language.

GRAND SEIKO STUDIO, JAPAN

THE ULTIMATE: 9

The number 9 is used in the naming of all modern in-house created Grand Seiko calibres – 9F Quartz, 9S Mechanical and 9R Spring Drive - and is centrepoint of the new Evolution 9 Collection.

9 in Japanese is pronounced ‘kyu,’ and it is represented by the kanji symbol . But another kanji symbol is also pronounced ‘kyu,’ and it translates as “the ultimate.”

This homophonous link between ‘9’ and ‘the ultimate’ emphasises this new collection as a continuation of the watchmaker’s quest for the pinnacle of precision, legibility, durability, and beauty.

EVOLUTION 9 IN THREE

The design features to look out for in the collection are:

EVOLUTION IN AESTHETICS

Light and shadow gradations through flat Zaratsu polished surfaces combined with hairline finishing bring out the Japanese sense of beauty and nature that lies at the heart of the Grand Seiko Style.

EVOLUTION IN LEGIBILITY

The hands and indexes have evolved to become even more distinctive, with their inspiration coming from the first Grand Seiko created in 1960. The hands are bold and multi-faceted and the indexes are powerfully threedimensional.

EVOLUTION IN COMFORT

The crown guard to reduce damage, and the improved crown shape ensure an easier grip. The case and bracelet in high-intensity titanium, are a lightweight wear. The case's centre of gravity is low and the curved lugs are wide allowing a comfortable fit.

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'GPHG 2022 'PETITE AIGUILLE' WATCH SHORTLISTED 'MISTFLAKE' SPRING DRIVE GMT SBGE285
GPHG 2022 DIVER'S WATCH SHORTLISTED 'USHIO'- 'TIDE' SPRING DRIVE DIVER'S SLGA015 SPRING DRIVE CHRONOGRAPH SBGC251 SPRING DRIVE GMT SBGE283 ZAKAA, Gana 53, Maitama 901101, Abuja, Nigeria www.hole19group.com +234 8140000264 @zakaa_official

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Jet Set

1 SKIN 101

This company has carved a niche for itself in the business of the largest organ of the human body. Skin 101 offers a luxury medical spa, dermatology clinic, aesthetic clinic and plastic surgery. Clients get a solution to their every cosmetic, medical and surgical need in one of the leading skin care clinics in Abuja.

2 NORDIC HOTEL LAGOS

A little oasis, tucked away in the buzzing city of Lagos, Nordic Hotel prides itself in creating a Nordic feeling for guests; one of a comfortable, warm, and welcoming environment. With a business model focused on growing its biggest asset (a team of Nigerian employees) while creating memorable experiences, this hotel is set for all your recreational, corporate and relaxational needs.

3 IBB INTERNATIONAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

The IBB International Golf and Country Club boasts of a premium experience with its undulating green area, roaming free wildlife and surrounding rocky highlands showcasing its blend of nature and the game of golf. Located in Abuja, this golfer's haven plays host to the unique Hole19.

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1 LOCHERBER MILANO - DIFFUSER

Azad Kashmere reed diffuser opens you to a feeling without restraints. A floral, woody, and powdery fragrance with hints of bergamot, combined with moroccan jasmine, lily of the valley, iris and ebony wood; finishing with vanilla, patchouli, musk, amber and sandalwood. These delicate blends permeate the senses and is perfect for every space.

2 ONNO - DIFFUSER

ONNO collection offers diffusers that tells tales of exotic lands and faraway places within handmade glasses, a piece of art for your homes. Providing you an inspiring blend of delicate scents, adorn your interior with this unique experience in a scent.

3 ORMONDE JAYNE - DIFFUSER

Bringing to you the essence of Latin America and allowing every room declare its Individuality. This dusky scent is a favourite among perfume lovers for its soft and sensuous ambience. Ormonde Jayne gifts us Montabaco Verano, the latest fragrance in their collection to introduce 2021.

The gentlemen home fragrance lives up to its name with a bottle that manifests masculine sophistication, with a mysterious, sweet rum and saffron fragrance that exudes elegance for the most seductive man.

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4 BAOBAB GENTLEMAN - DIFFUSER

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Jet-Set

1 STADLER FORM - LEO 3D FAN

A beautiful, mobile fan that takes up little space, the Leo 3D fan circulates airflow in a room, and has up to four speed settings that meets every need. Leo is more than a fan, it is a companion that creates a comfortable indoor climate.

2 STADLER FORM - ALBERT DEHUMIDIFIER

With his stylish appearance, the dehumidifier Albert little is every bit the match of his big brother. He can also be conveniently rolled from one corner to the other. His tank is also easy to handle thanks to an automatic lifting handle.

3 STADLER FORM - KARL HUMIDIFIER

Powerful yet quiet! Karl is the first of a new generation of efficient humidifiers. Despite his low power consumption, the compact evaporator can humidify large rooms in no time at all. In auto mode, Karl selects the appropriate level of humidification independently so that the desired result can be achieved quickly and economically. And before the water runs out, the water container can be filled from above during operation via a lift-up flap. All humidifier Karl’s functions – including monitoring the current level of humidity – can be conveniently controlled on the device itself or via an app on your smartphone.

4

STADLER FORM - FAN PETER LITTLE

Do you have little space? Peter Little has you covered. Ideal for limited areas, it is perfect for your bedroom, your office table or next to your sofa. Do not underestimate this fan, with levels ranging from gentle breeze to strong wind, and a swing that ensures cool air is distributed. Peter Little shows that little things do matter.

5 STADLER

FORM - ROGER AIR PURIFIER

Roger little – the quiet, efficient air purifier for rooms of up to 355 square feet – filters pollutants and gases, ensuring clean and healthy indoor air.

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1 TASCHEN THE STAN LEE STORY

Honouring the life and times of the most legendary name in comics, this book is written by another legend Roy Thomas, with the Godfather of comic himself! Stimulate your imagination with never-before-seen photographs, original comic art and rare comic book facsimiles. This book has you believing you were present.

2 TASCHEN THE ADIDAS ARCHIVE

This book tells you everything you need to know about Adidas sneakers. It is the “Mecca” for sneaker fans that presents Adidas history through over 350 pairs of shoes from the “Adidas Archive”. From one-of-a-kind originals and vintage models, to unique prototypes, this book offers that and more.

3 TASCHEN SMALL ARCHITECTURE

Small structures, but with trend setting ideas. Small buildings present many advantages and encourage their designers to do more with less. Follow these architects as they showcase the creative possibilities of compact dimensions.

4 TASCHEN REMBRANDT: THE COMPLETE PAINTINGS

A comprehensive catalogue of his 871 paintings, alongside writings and essays, charting the life and work of a master who continues to tower over art to this day. Today, the works of Vincent van Gogh (1853–1890) are among the most well known and celebrated in the world. In paintings such as Sunflowers, The Starry Night, and Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear, we recognize an artist uniquely dexterous in the representation of texture and mood, light and place.

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1 ARTURO FUENTE HEMINGWAY WORK OF ART

Despite its bulbous nipple foot, this perfecto burns and draws evenly, showing a creamy smoke full of almond and cinnamon with hints of spice. Sweet elements of baked apple and raisin precede the tangy, woody finish.

2 ARTURO FUENTE HEMINGWAY MASTERPIECE

An enormously long diadema with a nipple foot. Smoking this cigar is like sipping an aperitif with big notes of chocolate, coconut and macadamia gaining complexity when it takes on hints of bitter orange peel and herbs.

3 ARTURO FUENTE OPUS X 20TH ANNIVERSARY - GOD’S WHISPER

To commemorate the 20th anniversary of the creation of the Opus X range. Blended with less ligero than the original line. A rich and creamy smoke that starts with aromas of cedar and nutty notes that develops and evolves into earthy tones with leather and spices.

4 ARTURO FUENTE CHATEAU FUENTE KING T (TUBO)

The light wrapper fortells this cigar’s gentle impressions of tangy orange peel, sweet graham cracker and nuts. Both combustion and draw are even and full the entire time.

5 ARTURO FUENTE RARE PINK VINTAGE 1960’S SÉRIES HAPPY ENDING

This softly pressed perfecto has a lush draw and even burn. Its earthy core is layered with notes of hazelnut, coffee and clove accented by bursts of dried orange peel and a gingerbread sweetness. Delicious and complex.

6 ARTURO FUENTE HEMINGWAY BETWEEN THE LINES

A barber-pole perfecto with a dark and lighter wrapper. Toasty and woody, the cigar picks up notes of nuts, cinnamon and citrus before the sweet finish. The draw and burn remain even throughout.

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JET SET

Jet-Set

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1 INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS

A scent for men and women that breathes out a force of nature and makes our dreams of greatness within reach. OUD for Greatness opens with calming yet aromatic notes of lavender, saffron and nutmeg before tailing into a heart of oud wood and natural agar-wood oil. Patchouli and musk ensures an enchanting base.

2 FRAGRANCE DU BOIS - OUD BLEU INTENSE

Sea breeze and mountain air in a bottle, the rich complex notes of wood and spices make this fragrance dreamy and intoxicating. If you are wary of oud, but love fresh, spicy, balsamic ambers, this is perfect for you.

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3 WIDIAN BLACK COLLECTION

This scent has incredible longevity combined with a small sillage for one, maybe two people; it's heard only in an embrace, not from a block away.

4 PARFUMS DE MARLY - ORIANA

The Olfactory equivalent of sweet and decadent delicacy, Oriana merges radiant sensuality with carefree nonchalance. Carrying 18th Century opulence into the present day, it balances floral, fruity notes in a glowing, gourmand expression that is simply addictive. .

XERJOFF - MORE THAN WORDS

More than words achieves true poetic balance with a composition that celebrates the individuality of its desperate elements without ever sacrificing the captivating blend of the whole fragrance.

6 LA CLOSERIE - OUD AMBRE CANELLE

OUD AMBRE Canelle is a captivating and spicy blend full of beautiful contrasts. Dive into a world of sweet comforting notes of vanilla, amber and patchouli; and another world full of the dark intense notes of cinnamon, sandal wood and cedaroud. This fragrance embraces the skin in a perfect balance.

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7 WIDIAN AL WASL

Powerful, opulent and smooth, Al Wasl is a radiant, sensual amber oud both striking and intensely personal. A new standard of luxury for Widian that more than lives up to the prestige of its name.

8 OMAN LUXURY - ROYAL INCENSE

Inspired by Omani Frankincense with a smoky aroma, Royal Incense charms your senses with its antique allure, one that instantly demands warmth and tranquility. Honey, Musk, Amber and Leather binding as it flows.

9 PARFUMS DE MARLY - OAJAN

Inspired by the untamed beauty of Arabian horses, Oajan speaks to the finest leather and warm gold tones. Vanilla, Tonka Bean and Patchouli round off top notes of honey and cinnamon in an exhilarating olfactory journey that encapsulated unbridled freedom.

10 OJAR - CIRRUS

LEATHER

A cloud of musk on your skin, lightened with notes of pear, green tea and sandalwood. The perfect touch of freshness for the sunny days.

11 FRAGRANCE DU BOIS - SAHRAA

Looking for a fragrance not made for a stereotypical gender? Fragrance Du Bois is made to share. Sahraa Oud captures the untamed wilderness of Arabia; immediately invoking the mystery and majesty of the desert.

12 ORMONDE JAYNE - GATSBY 22

An elegant and warming fragrance with nostalgic charm that bursts with effervescent citrus and softly - scented flowers. The kind of scent you wear if you are looking for a promotion.

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HometosomeoftheworldstopSwisswatchbrands, Zakaacaterstotheaspirationofeverytruewatchlover fromaficionadotocollector,enthusiasttoinvestor, corporatesandindividualsalike.Anartfullycurated worldofwondersawaitsyourvisittothe HomeofLuxury. LIVEWITHPASSION 53:360 GANASTREET53,MAITAMA-ABUJA +2348140000264| INSTA: @ZAKAA_OFFICIAL WWW.ZAKAAURBAN.COM

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TOURBILLON

Sapphire case. In-house tourbillon movement with a 5-day power reserve. Limited to 50 pieces.

EDITORS’ PICKS
Transcorp Hilton Hotel Abuja, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi St Tel. +234 9 291 4615 • abuja@hublot-boutique.com ABUJA BOUTIQUE

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