GMT GCC - N1 - WORLD CUP EDITION, 2022. by HNZ Luxury Trading LLC

New Models

12 montres pour l’été et la rentrée 12 watches for summer and post-vacation time

Test Bench

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Superdiver

Interviews

George Kern (Breitling) François-Henry Bennahmias (Audemars Piguet)

Specials

FIFA World Cup 2022 GPHG Pre-event Gulf Historic

Documentary

L’horlogerie est-elle disruptive ? Is watchmaking disruptive?

Purnell

Ballon d’Or™ 2022 - Unique Piece GMT GCC NO 1 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q1 2023 I ENGLISH & FRENCH I USD 12.–

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Celebrating 200 Years of

Timeless Art & Engineering Brilliance

Orbis Mundi

T h e Wo r l d i s Yo u rs

Exclusive World Time Function Controlled via the Crown All 24 World Time Zones at a Glance; 7-Day Power Reserve

bovet.com

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TIME TO RACE UNIQUE TIMEPIECE louismoinet.com

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BLUE SALON Suhaim Bin Hamad St. Al Sadd – Doha, Qatar +974 444 66 111 www.bluesalon.com7 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

Editorial Q1 2023

Fostering Community

y honour to bring you the maiden edition of GMT GCC- World Cup Issue. For me, it is another milestone in a wonderful career having just finished my duties as amember of the Jury in the just con-

cluded GPHG awards. From my base here in the United Arab Emirates, I feel priviledged to be able to bring this wonderful addition to the amazing community of watchlovers, enthusiasts, clubs and Entrepreneurs in the luxury watch industry across the GCC region. Whilst I am yet to travel extensively across the GCC countries, I find the Emiratis to be the most gracious hosts, wonderfully polite, educated and elegant ladies and gentlemen reflecting the principal essence and cornerstone of the UAE. The ever growing watch community in the GCC area is tremen-

GCC in this direction. In the same light, we are with the brands,

dous. It’s a passionate, diverse group of men and women of all

acknowledging the amazing work done by so many of the indepen-

ages, and our goal with GMT GCC is to honour these great watch

dent brands - big and small - who for many reasons are booming

lovers, because the watch brands will not be where they are today

and I believe will continue to grow for years to come.

without such wonderful and passionate consumers, not only in the GCC but across the world. So GMT GCC plans to, in this edi-

In closing, I want to wish my new home - The United Arab Emirates

tion and continuously, spotlight and acknowledge afficionados,

- a wonderful 51st national day, and may this great country have

collectors, communities of watch lovers through features and in-

many more successes and prosperous days ahead!

terviews that share their unique perspective and highlight their activities. Yes, we see so many magazines that are about the watch

DEREMI AJIDAHUN I Editor-in-Chief daa_live

daa@gmtgcc.com

brands, this is very important but I think a blend of the two will compliment each other and we are very happy to be taking GMT

KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE 10th Anniversary Edition Limited to 10 pieces Ref. 539.506.ZG.A

RETAILERS Al Majed Jewelry & Watches – Qatar Bahrain Jewellery Center W.L.L – Kingdom of Bahrain Behbehani Watch World – Kuwait Swiss Promotion Private Limited – India Watch Avenue – United Arab Emirates Bonus Eventus – Exclusive Agent in GCC and Middle East Mob. Ph. 0097158 511 3839 – 0097155 225 5343

WORLD CUP p.67

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COMMUNITY p.22

PURNELL p.16

Contributors

DEREMI AJIDAHUN

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Under the guidance of GMT’s Editor-in-Chief, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

An entrepreneur at heart, the magazine’s founder and Editor-in-Chief is always brimming with new ideas. He nurtures an unbridled passion for watchmaking that he enthusiastically conveys to readers through his insightful articles.

Sous la houlette du rédacteur en chef de GMT, Brice Lechevalier, les contributeurs suivants ont prêté leur plume experte à la réalisation de cette édition suisse, et donc forcément internationale.

Entrepreneur dans l’âme, le fondateur et rédacteur en chef du magazine a la tête bouillonnante de nouvelles idées. Il voue une passion débordante pour l’horlogerie qu’il transmet avec enthousiasme aux lecteurs à travers ses articles éclairés.

Publisher / Editor-in-Chief of GMT GCC and GMT Africa, shares his perspective built over 25 years experience in the African luxury market and his unique business insights on the Swiss Watch industry.

FABRICE RABHI & DENIS HAYOUN

Comprendre ce qui fait la beauté d’une montre et savoir mettre en lumière ses meilleurs atouts : voilà le talent de ce photographe et de ce réalisateur numérique qui signent en duo le shooting de cette édition estivale. Understanding what makes a watch beautiful and knowing how to highlight its best assets: such is the talent of this photographer and this digital director who jointly orchestrated the photoshoot for this summer edition.

MARIE DE PIMODAN

When she’s not out in the field meeting industry players, visiting a Manufacture or discovering a new product, you’ll find this expert watch journalist at GMT Publishing writing an article for the magazine or for WorldTempus. Quand elle n’est pas sur le terrain pour rencontrer les acteurs de l’industrie, visiter une manufacture ou découvrir une nouveauté, vous trouverez cette journaliste experte en horlogerie à la rédaction de GMT Publishing en pleine écriture d’un article pour le magazine ou pour WorldTempus.

AISHA JIBRIN An experienced member of the GMT team, she writes on luxury lifestyle, events, interviews and community in Africa and the Middle East region.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

LOUIS-OLIVIER MAURY

As someone who is into networking and fine dining, Louis-Olivier likes to discuss time and watchmaking with the most multi-Michelinstarred chefs. In his “24 hours in the life of…” column, he invites us to go behind the scenes of great restaurants by giving voice to those who delight the tastebuds of the world’s discerning gourmets. Homme de réseaux et de bonnes tables, Louis-Olivier aime disserter autour du temps et parler horlogerie avec les chefs étoilés. Dans sa rubrique « 24 heures dans la vie de… », il nous invite à entrer dans les coulisses des grands restaurants en donnant la parole à ceux qui régalent les papilles des fins gourmets de ce monde.

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This experienced watchmaker knows the workings of the watch industry inside out. For GMT, he writes the Test Bench section. The principle? Wear a watch for a week and analyze it from every angle so as to deliver a precise technical and aesthetic assessment. Cet horloger chevronné connaît les rouages de la mécanique horlogère comme sa poche. Pour GMT, il alimente la rubrique Banc d’Essai. Le principe ? Porter une montre pendant une semaine, l’analyser sous toutes ses coutures pour en livrer avec précision le bilan technique et esthétique.

DAVID CHOKRON

Journaliste spécialisé en horlogerie basé à Paris, David se laisse encore émerveiller et porter par la force, la poésie et l’ingéniosité horlogère. Il privilégie cependant une approche raisonnable et pragmatique en se concentrant sur les questions de qualité technique et d’ergonomie des montres qu’il nous dévoile dans ses articles. A specialized watch journalist based in Paris, David still finds himself amazed and blown away by the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favors a reasonable and pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles.

JORDY BELLIDO

Quand il n’est pas aux manettes pour rédiger des articles ou planifier les publications de WorldTempus, Jordy prête sa plume habile à la rédaction GMT pour dévoiler les dernières nouveautés horlogères. When he’s not involved in writing articles or planning publications for WorldTempus, Jordy skillfully contributes to the GMT editorial team when it comes to unveiling the latest watch models.

Contents

Q1 2023

GMTGCC gmtgcc

8 EDITORIAL 10 CONTRIBUTORS 16 COVER STORY PURNELL Ballon d’Or

118 ICÔNE ICON

L’horlogerie est-elle disruptive ? Is watchmaking disruptive?

102

Chopard, Happy Sport

90 TENDANCE TRENDS

102 A. LANGE & SÖHNE

DOCUMENTARY

ART & HISTOIRE ART & HISTORY

88 INTRODUCTION

COMMUNITY

122 THE MILLENNIUM WATCH BOOK

22 SUPER RETAILER Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

TECHNIQUE TECH INSIGHTS

28 AFFICIONADOS

114 BANC D’ESSAI TEST BENCH

Arab Watch Club

TAG HEUER,

Emirates Watch Club

Aquaracer professional 1000 Superdiver

Ladies Watch Club

SPECIALS

Dubai Watch Union Watch Club Dubai Elite Watch Collectors

Disruption, la conquête par la rupture Disruption: conquest by severance

93 INTERVIEWS François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO Audemars Piguet Alain Delamuraz, CEO Jaquet Droz Georges Kern, CEO Breitling Nicola Andreatta, CEO Roger Dubuis

99 SÉLECTIONS EDITORS’ PICKS

Close up view 12 new releases

Avec quelques grammes de moins A few grams less

108

103 ARMIN STROM

La date en orbite The date in orbit

104 CHANEL

Mademoiselle s’amuse Mademoiselle shows her fun side

105 DOXA

Un été en toute légèreté A light and airy summer

106 GUCCI

31 GULF HISTORIC

Luxe arc-en-ciel Rainbow luxury

48 GPHG 2022

107 H. MOSER & CIE.

65 FIFA WORLD CUP

Plus noir que le plus profond des noirs Blacker than the deepest black

108 HYT

La Moon Runner éclipse l’ennui The Moon Runner eclipses boredom

103

109 JAEGER-LECOULTRE

En perpétuelle évolution Perpetually evolving

110 L.LEROY

Art déco Art Deco

106

111 PATEK PHILIPPE Laboratoire de platine Platinum lab

112 PERRELET

L’énergie côté face Energy face forward

113 RICHARD MILLE

Le Bushido de Richard Mille Richard Mille’s Bushido

112 48 LIFESTYLE 126 ILS AIMENT WRIST STORIES 129 BEST OF INSTAGRAM 130 PHOTO SHOOT 140 24 HEURES DANS LA VIE DE… 24 HOURS IN THE LIFE OF…

142 JET SET 150 ZOOM EVENTS 12

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Imprint

130 114

Magazine GMT GCC no 1 The magazine of the 12th Art, reflects the spirit of haute horlogerie since the year 2000. GCC Edition from 2022. Printed edition: 15’000 copies in English : Editor in chief : Deremi Ajidahun - daa@gmtgcc.com, Tel : +971 52 439 5020 Administration & Edition : HNZ Group UAE Directors : Deremi Ajidahun & Bi Feuser-Ajidahun Marketing, distribution & Sales Manager : Aisha Jibrin aisha@gmtgcc.com Layout & Print : ODA Studio

111

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Purnell Ballon d’Or ™ 2022

MOVEMENT: Mechanical Hand Winding Caliber P10, Innovative Flying Tourbillon encased in Golden Football, Full Rotation in 30 seconds, Functions: Hour, Minute, Power Reserve Indication via an Ingenious Suspended Mobile Cone Mainspring Sensor, Number of Components: 245, Number of Jewels: 37, Power Reserve: 50 hours, Balance Frequency: 3hz / 21,600bph Movement, Dimensions: 38mm X 14.4mm, Movement Weight: 12.9 grams, Adjusted: 12 Positions, Shock Protection: 8 Incabloc,

BRICE LECHEVALIER

DIAL & HANDS: Smoked Sapphire Dial with HandPolished Hands, Finished with Hand-Applied Indexes Displaying Hours and Minutes, Power Reserve Indicator coated in powdered 5N Gold. CASE: Material: Titanium, Diameter: 48mm; weight: 125 grams, Water Resistance: 3 atm, Number of Case Components: 15,Top Monobloc Sapphire Crystal with Panoramic View of the Ballon d’Or, Lateral Window on Edge of Case at 9 o’clock and 12 o’clock. STRAP :White Natural Rubber strap 18K White Gold & Titanium Folding Buckle

BALLON D’OR Full rotation in 30 seconds thanks to the Flying Tourbillon inside “Ballon d’Or” weight: 4.14g in 18K Rose Gold 2 Barrels; 2 Visible Barrel Covers Engraved with following message: Left Barrel: « France Football est honorée de remettre au vainqueur masculin* de la 66ème edition du Prestigieux Trophée Ballon d’Or France

Football 2022, la Montre Purnell Ballon d’Or. Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris le 17 octobre 2022. » *feminin for the women winner Right Barrel: « Ballon d’Or France Football et Purnell partagent les valeurs universelles que sont la Performance, le Talent, le Fairplay et la Pérennité. Valeurs auxquelles s’associent Eric Coudray, inventeur du Calibre Purnell P10 qui équipe la montre Pièce Unique Purnell Ballon d’Or 2022. »

Creation of Legends

“Football is the most popular sport in the world and the Ballon d’OrTM its most prestigious distinction.”

Purnell

Ballon d’Or™ 2022 - Unique Piece

aken home by 2022 Ballon d’Or winners Karim Benzema and Alexia Putellas, Purnell’s spectacular Master piece, The 2022 Ballon d’Or watch remains a mesmerizing piece on engineering, an embodiment of the companies

“Hyper Horology” mantra that seeks to redefine the boundaries of conventional high watch-making. Official partner of the Ballon d’Or™ since 2021, Purnell revealed the unique piece awarded to the respective Men’s and Women’s 2022 Ballon d’Or™ winner of the 66th edition on October 17th, 2022. Creation of Legends Worldwide, over 4 billion avid fans live and breathe football. Each goal, miss, penalty, high, and low. It is more than a game; it is a way of life. French magazine, France Football established the Ballon d’Or™

award in 1956 with the aim to crown living legends. An interna-

d’Or™ its most prestigious distinction,” said Maurizio Mazzocchi,

tional jury of 100 expert journalists assembled by the magazine,

CEO of Purnell.

work together each year to choose the best male and female player

France Football announced in March that some of the rules for Bal-

of the year. For all the controversy it generates, the Ballon d’Or™

lon d’Or™ have changed, with the key one being that the award

remains the most important individual award in world of football.

would be based on performances over a single season, rather than

“Football is the most popular sport in the world and the Ballon

a calendar year. That means performances at the 2022 World Cup 

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was not considered, and instead will be judged when voting for

“Purnell stands for the best, for the ultimate in the watch indus-

the 2023 Ballon d’Or™ gets under way.

try and could only attach its name to the very best players, the

The shortlisting process has also experienced a change. It was

Ballon d’Or™ winners.” … “I think that Purnell and the Ballon

previously drafted by journalists working for France Football and

d’Or™share two essential values: very high standards of excel-

L’Équipe, but that has now been altered. Ballon d’Or™ ambassador

lence and the taste for performance,” shares Pascal Ferré, Editor-

Didier Drogba helped to finalise the shortlists as well as the “most

in-Chief of France Football.

insightful voter” from the previous edition of the award. For the

An 18K White Gold Premiere, the Ballon d’Or™ trophy, a literal

men’s 2022 edition, Vietnamese journalist Truong Anh Ngoc,

golden football, has become the ultimate achievement for any

working for The Thao & Van Hoa, had a say in the shortlist while

football player. Each trophy is unique, just like each laureate,

Czech journalist Karolina Hlavackova, working for Ruik, helped

and it is in that spirit of exclusivity that Purnell developed two

finalise the 2022 Women’s shortlist.

unique pieces awarded to the male and female winner of the Bal-

There have also been changes to the voting system. While 127

lon d’Or™.

jurors, one from each country, were part of the process to decide

The 2022 Purnell Ballon d’Or™ Unique Piece is donned in a spec-

the winner in 2021, that has now changed. Now, only the top 100

tacular 48mm Titanium case. An 18K rose gold football engraved

ranked countries in FIFA’s coefficient will be able to have one repre-

with the France Football hallmark, encapsulates a flying tourbil-

sentative conduct their vote. This has been to eliminate the weak-

lon, making a full rotation in 30 seconds.

est footballing countries to ensure a fair method of voting didn’t include too many people and votes from nations with a perceived lower level of football expertise and didn’t make an impact.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

An iconic creation that celebrates football through innovative watch making.

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Schwarz Etienne

For Over 100 Years, Schwarz Etienne Has Respected Time-Honoured Traditions While Continuously Pursuing A Fresh And Dynamic Vision Of Watchmaking Schwarz Etienne is a Swiss watch manufacturer specialising in

Schwarz Etienne is proud to call La Chaux-de-Fonds its home, a

the design and production of high-end movements and mecha-

city with a long tradition of watchmaking. Within its Manufac-

nical watches, whose origins date back to 1902 when Paul Arthur

ture, creativity is combined with patience and care, culminating

Schwarz and his wife Olga Etienne created the company in the

in production of exceptional products. In order to achieve this,

city of La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland. The company name is

the company rigorously controls every stage of the production

an amalgam of the founders’ surnames. This family business,

process.

began life as a manufacturer of mechanical movements that were

The esteemed reputation of the firm can be attributed to its unwa-

subsequently housed in watches bearing the names Alpha, Astin,

vering pursuit of excellence. Moreover, the company’s success

Sultana Le Phare and Venus.

and continued growth are due to its talented watchmakers and craftspeople and the meticulous care they employ each day.

The founders’ sons eventually assumed control of the company in 1940. Always a dynamic and innovative company, Schwarz

Courtesy of its vast technical expertise, Schwarz Etienne designs

Etienne expanded its activities into Europe and commenced tra-

and manufactures movements as well as numerous watch com-

ding in Asia and the Middle East.

ponents, with the help of its sister company, E20 innovations,

In the 1970s and 1980s, Schwarz Etienne diversified, partly in res-

a specialist company that makes escapements and regulating

ponse to the so-called ‘quartz crisis’ engulfing the watch industry

organs, including hairsprings.

at the time. In 1985, the company took the decision to return to its

Its expertise extends to the making of escapements, regulating

founding principles and focus primarily on making movements

organs and hairsprings, as well as other movement components,

and timepieces.

including main plates and bridges. The Manufacture’s portfolio of exclusive timepieces unites tradition and modernity. Each

During this era, Schwarz Etienne developed its own brand and

creation harnesses Schwarz Etienne’s vast expertise and rigorous

range of models, before eventually becoming a fully-fledged Ma-

process controls.

nufacture, known for its creativity, innovative spirit and watch-

The company is able to undertake 100% of the movement assem-

making expertise

bly while ensuring extensive quality controls are maintained

In 2007, Raffaello Radicchi, a local entrepreneur with a passion

throughout. Schwarz Etienne endows its models with a variety

for watchmaking, acquired Schwarz Etienne. His arrival signal-

of complications, from small to complex, but always expressed in

led the dawn of a new era with the company focussing its efforts

a creative way.

on making exceptional watches as well as movements.

Courtesy of its horological prowess, the Maison skilfully endows

Today, working in collaboration with the Radicchi Group,

its products with aesthetic appeal, innovative ideas and technical

Schwarz Etienne concentrates on making distinctive, high-qua-

excellence. Reinterpreting complications is a defining characte-

lity products that perpetuate the company’s long-standing and

ristic of Schwarz Etienne’s culture and reinforces the company’s

esteemed reputation.

values, namely creativity, boldness and innovation.

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ROSWELL 08 Hours, minutes Small seconds at 11 o’clock Date at 2 o’clock

SCHWARZ ETIENNE CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds www.schwarz-etienne.com

Al Majed Jewellery & Watches - Qatar | Al Shahab Watches - Kuwait | Bahrain Jewellery Center W.L.L - Kingdom of Bahrain Luxury Watches - Jordan | Swiss Promotion Private Limited - India | 10TenLabs - Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Watch Avenue - United Arab Emirates | Bonus Eventus Company - Exclusive Local Agent in the GCC & Middle East GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS COMMUNITY

Sélection Super Retailer BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

mbassadors have taken over the atten-

has a long way to go; the majority of sales are still

tion of major watch brands for obvi-

happening face to face. This is understandable, as

ous reasons, Hublot releases watches

historically buyers have tended to gravitate towards

co-designed by a diverse range of

being able to touch the watch and try it on before

names, Breitling establishes several

making a purchase. At the furthest end of the equa-

ambassadorial ‘squads’ to represent the brand while

tion, this sales channel will continue to contribute

championing complementary causes amongst oth-

up to 80 percent or more of any brand’s business;

ers. However, the role of Watch retailers cannot be

Underlining the view that retail is still important!

overemphasized.

Meet a SUPER RETAILER (amongst others in subse-

While the numbers seem to be on the rise for Ambas-

quent editions) that is redefining the watch industry

sadors and e-commerce in the watch industry, it still

in the GCC region.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

LEFT PAGE (L Abdul Hamied Seddiqi Chairman, Seddiqi Holding

What started as one man’s passion over 60 years ago is today an

R Seddiqi & Sons HQ)

empire that brings luxury and honesty to the hearts of watch col-

TOP LEFT

Some members of the Family

lectors all over the world.

BOTTOM LEFT

Founder, Ahmed Qasim Seddiqi maintained focus by offering qual-

ity Swiss watches to an array of clients, including royalty and poli-

  This super retailer provides its clients with tailor-made services

ticians. He furthered the company’s growth through his exclusive

by offering a comprehensive purchasing approach into the world

franchise agreements with the world’s leading Swiss watch com-

of horology. By applying expertise and knowledge, they assist

panies and he safeguarded the business by keeping Ahmed Seddiqi

customers during the pre-purchase phase all the way through to

& Sons a tight-knit family operation.

after-care and maintenance to ensure they experience the best the

The first Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons shop was located in Bur Dubai. As

industry has to offer.

business grew, the Ahmed Seddiqi & sons retail presence expanded

Recognized today as a pioneer among leading retailers in the

from a single shop in Dubai’s souk to a formidable network of ele-

region, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons represents more than 60 luxury

gant stores. 

watch and jewelry brands across 51 destinations in the UAE.

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Mohammed Abdulmagied SeddiqiChief Commercial Officer, Seddiqi Holding BOTTOM CENTRE

Hind Seddiqi-

Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Seddiqi Holding BOTTOM RIGHT

Osama Ibrahim Seddiqi-

Chief Financial Officer, Seddiqi Holding

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MODA MALL : 17520053 OASIS MALL : 17365151 BOUTIQUE CITY CENTRE : 17375999

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Back in the day, starting a luxury watch collection was about as niche a pastime as you could get; practiced exclusively by an impenetrable clique of the select few. Now, it has transformed into a buzzing community of likeminded and passionate enthusiasts, brought together by a mutual love of horology. Below, we’ll look at a few clubs that have taken their shared passion unto a whole new level redefining the world of horology.

Arab Watch Club

Emirates Watch Club

Arab Watch Guide was founded in April 2014 by one of UAE’s most

Born out of the pandemic on social networking platform, Insta-

recognized influencers, Hassan Akras, a watch enthusiast and

gram, Emirates Watch Club, a club that fosters real-life interac-

luxury lifestyle content creator. Aras began sharing the passion for

tion between watch enthusiasts has set the standard for watch

watch collection with the Arab collectors and enthusiasts and in

clubs in the middle east region.

2015, the Arab Watch Club was established from ten members to

The club founded by 3 partners in July, 2021; Dr Malek bin Easa, a

thousands from across the Gulf and Middle East Region; spanning

36-year-old entrepreneur from Dubai, Marwan Alshaiba, who also

from Lebanon, Syria to all of the GCC with over 15 special watch

lives in Dubai, and Abdullah Bashwari, who resides in Sharjah,

editions created exclusively for the Club members.

has over 33,000 online followers with membership only open to people from the UAE.

The Arab Watch Club is the first club of its kind that connects Arab

The members all have various backgrounds from engineers who

collectors from different regions together and with the Horol-

like to talk about the materials, to sporty members and business-

ogy world. Its vision is to become the first Arab Club to represent

men. The young people are also not left out of applicants who pass

the Arab region in the Watch Collecting world by being actively

through an interview process where they share why they want to

engaged in Education, Brand Awareness, Special Editions and

become a member.

Charity Work.

The main goal of the Emirates Watch Club is to share and pass on

This group will be caught actively organizing gatherings across the

the passion for and knowledge about watches and this goal has

region like embarking on VIP factory visits to the home of the best

the club network with authorized dealers in the region, CEO of

watchmakers in the world, organizing exclusive private events

independent watch brands and LVMH, Richemont, etc keeping

with watch brands tailored to their members and co creating spe-

them in the know above other watch clubs and collectors. The

cial editions exclusively for its members.

club is also invited by brands to review watches before they are launched, rightly placing them for projects and partnerships. One of the Club’s first special projects was the development of a limited edition watch, Seiko Mods; one of the club founders had a

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personal version made with a Meteorite dial and had EWC printed on it and after loving it so much, the club had 15 pieces made, for its members. The next limited piece for the club was by the independent brand, Moritz Grossmann from Glashütte, Germany. The brand works by the concept of ‘manu factum’, everything is ‘made by hand’ – down to the smallest detail of the movement. The limited 12 piece was created of stainless steel with a special dial. The Benu Index line was infused with the indices and the seconds sub-dial removed making the graining of the dial fully visible. The dial is in German Silver and thanks to the linear hand-graining it reflects the light from every angle, without obstructions. The cal. 100.1 movement, is the special Moritz Grossmann lateral pusher for disabling the hand-setting mode and starting the movement system. The numerals are hand-engraved hour numerals and a hand-engraved logo without the small seconds. Moritz Grossmann adopted its annealing hands technique to get a special brown-violet hue making the watch even more beautiful. The club proved that watch lovers are also lovers of fast cars, drawing the attention of Lamborghini making it the first watch club to be sponsored by the fast car brand. The future is looking bright for the Emirates Watch Club as it continues in its goal to spread the knowledge and love for watches, introduce the smaller indies to its members, and guide young collectors in their search for a fine collection. It is a real community.

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Watch Club Dubai When you join the exclusive Watch Club Dubai private members club, not only will you get to meet other watch enthusiasts in a luxurious private setting once a month, but you will also get to experience a range of different luxury watches to wear each month from as little as $6 a day! Founder, Al Rahmani found the first 10 members through Instagram. The club now has over almost 65,000 followers. Club members represent a range of nationalities, religions — and tastes; You will find one who only buys field watches; find another who specifically buys Grand Seiko; vintage Rolex; Patek Philippe; only rose gold watches and all who often help one another hunt for particular models. The collectors spend a lot of time together at events like dinners for 10 to 15, semi formal meetings where “everybody is invited,” and casual gatherings that take place all the time.

Dubai Watch Union Ladies Watch Club

The Dubai Watch Union is a Dubai based community of watch

most importantly knowledge that they have accumulated along

Interview with Irina Ciobanu,Founder Ladies Watch Club

enthusiasts. Its members are watch collectors of all levels and

their watch collecting journey.

niches.

A customer walking into a watch boutique does not get the same

An idea to start an instagram page dedicated to watches was one of

experience as a member of a watch club; in the perspective of being

the topics founders Shihab Kunhahamed & Isa Ishaque were casu-

one of the first to get insights & experience the latest releases.

How was the club founded and who are its founders? There are a lot of women in the watch industry, passionate about

What are the club’s record projects and achievements?

watches, collecting watches, but when I looked at watch clubs, it

The biggest achievement was to create the First Worldwide Female

was men, men, men, men, men. No one connected ladies. So on

Club where enthusiasts from around the globe connect over a

March 8, 2020 — International Women’s Day, I launched the club.

shared passion for beautiful and masterful watches! Partnering

The Ladies Watch is an exclusive Club for watch enthusiasts and

with brands such as IWC, Time Valee, JLC, Vacheron Costantin,

aficionados from all over the world. We connect, talk and share the

Roger Dubuis it’s a big honor and achievement.

same passion- WATCHES! Founder: Irina Ciobanu – my full name, born in Moldova and living in Dubai since 2015.

Any projects in the pipelines?

I’ve always had a fascination with watches. I can remember all

Preparing a series of monthly meetups — with a female represen-

throughout my early life, I would stop by watches boutiques and

tative from different watch companies at each one to talk about

admire the watches that I couldn’t afford at that time.

watches, history, learn more about the brands and the amount of work put behind a watch.

What is the process of becoming a member? We are welcoming all the ladies worldwide that are sharing the

What are the challenges the club is facing?

same passion, which is watches. Our members are watch collec-

The possibility of meeting in person all the ladies and organizing a

tors, watch enthusiasts, ladies working in the watch industry

gathering all together.

or who want to learn more about watches. To become a member of this amazing community, there is a form on the website to be

What is the future of female watchmaking?

filled. We are 900+ passionate and knowledgeable members world-

It’s not just a man’s world where we will not get involved. We will

wide - USA, UAE, India, Switzerland, Italia, Russia etc.

definitely get involved. We already are. There are increasing num-

ally pondering about. Come December 2019, they decided to take

Attending watch launch events & other functions is a great experi-

the plunge and started the instagram page Dubai Watch Union.

ence like no other.

One of the blessings during the unfortunate Covid pandemic was

The Dubai Watch Union is now a small family of 15 members, The

the online growth on all platforms and business. This helped the

Union likes to keep it compact and maintain the family environ-

page also in a big way as more people started following and inter-

ment but surely open to growing the club at its own pace.

acting on a regular basis. Soon prominent watch brands started

The Union has collaborated with the best of watch brands like IWC,

taking note of the community.

Panerai, Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Bell &

Once the pandemic eased down, at least in the UAE, PR compa-

Ross, Roger Dubuis & Aventi to name a few.

nies & Watch Brands started communicating. The earliest brands

The name Dubai Watch Union works perfectly as the Union believes

to reach out were Raymond Weil & Tag Heuer. These brand inter-

in unity and not competition with other such watch clubs in the

actions and activations put the Union in the spotlight and started

region. The Union shares utmost affection & enthusiasm with its

getting like-minded individuals reaching out to form a commu-

peers in Emirates Watch Club & Arab Watch Club to name a few.

nity.

Dubai Watch Union is in the early stages of discussions for its own

The idea of the union is to grow an open and inclusive community

first club edition watch.

of watch collectors with distinct tastes and collections. The Union believes in gender equality and has several female core members. The collectors share with each other their passion, collections, and

bers of women designers in the industry. Maybe this is the reason What drives the club and what are the approaches adopted to

that the women’s watch market is changing, a female-centric and

achieve its goals?

intuitive design that produces watches that speak to women and

The Club is driven by the passion and the eagerness from all watch

that women actually want. When the pandemic happened, brands

female enthusiasts globally to show the world that females play

had no choice but to adapt. The industry is starting to listen,

a big role in the watch industry. Every member of the club is an

they’re seeing more women sharing the watches they’re buying.

ambassador of this message, every event we will do it’s going to

Social media, especially Instagram, has had a huge influence on

increase the awareness of big brands who are starting to listen to

opening up this very traditional industry.

more women to shape their product strategy. 28

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

2022 EDITION

#gulfhistoric

EDITORS’ PICKS COMMUNITY

Sélection Afficionados

Elite Watch Collectors Elite Watch Collectors is a group of friends and passionate watch

brands, and budgets. They are hype agnostic; they want to see

enthusiasts. Formally part of a local watch club, its members

your watch, and they want you to share your story, why you love

decided to step away and create something more inclusive, fair and

it and what it means to you. From a Timex to an F.P. Journe, from

accessible.

vintage to the most limited watches, EWC’s channel has featured

EWC is driven by the vision to build an open and accessible commu-

many amazing timepieces. They love the diversity of watches and

nity for passionate watch collectors from all walks of life; this they

the stories shared by the watch community.

began achieving with the creation of an instagram channel that

Elite Watch Collectors have members that have been collecting for

allows them share collective passion for watches and individual

decades, and members with so much knowledge about specific

watch-collecting journeys.

brands and others that are experts on particular complications.

For its members, EWC is not a club; it’s a group of like-minded

The community’s biggest appeal is the diversity of characters

individuals, hobbyists if you like, that meets from time to time for

and collections; made up of entrepreneurs, financiers, market-

a great chat on all things horology over coffee or a light meal. More

ers, CEOs, students, artists, family business owners, etc. With

often, meetings are held at the Elite Watch Collectors Lounge,

so many varied backgrounds, ages, experiences and tastes, they

designed and created by one of its founders.

develop relationships and connect people in ways that enriches

EWC is all about the love for watches of all types, complications,

their lives.

Whether you have a broad interest in watches of all kinds or you want to learn more about your preferred maker, you will find a forum that caters to you.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GULF HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL

RACE PROGRAM AND INFORMATION

25-27 NOVEMBER 2022 - DUBAI AUTODROME

BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

History is back on track 1975 Shadow DN5 Photography: Dubai Autodrome

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

FROM FRIDAY 25TH TO SUNDAY 27TH NOVEMBER, MORE THAN 50 THOROUGHBRED RACING CARS FROM THE PAST ARE SET TO SCRUB TYRES AND TRADE PAINT AT THE DUBAI AUTODROME FOR THE SECOND ANNUAL GULF HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Taking inspiration from the 1970s, from the paddock and garages through to the spectators’ dress code, the event relives Formula 1 and Le Mans’ most exhilarating generations. The F1 spoils from last year’s event, which drew a crowd of 5,000 people each day, went to Oliver Webb in the Hesketh 308, while the Group C/GT Prototype Le Mans-spec honours went to the OC Racing pairing of Marc Devis and Martin O’Connell and their pink-painted Spice SE90. This year, the timetable has expanded to include two separate F1 categories and two for endurance machines which run the gamut from 1970 all the way through to 2010. These categories represent golden eras for professional, boundary-pushing, evocative circuit racing. Many machines are travelling here from manufacturer museums and private collections from around the world, spinning their wheels in the Middle East for the very first time. Our home, the 5.4km-long Dubai Autodrome, has been a mecca for the region’s petrolheads since its

THE RETRO DUEL IN THE DESERT RETURNS

construction in 2004. Here, the 24 Hours of Dubai has become a mainstay. It’s also hosted rounds of the FIA GT Championship, European Touring Car Championship, A1 Grand Prix and GP2 Asia Series. For drivers, car owners, fans and sponsors alike, the GHDGPR is a unique and novel opportunity to come together in the desert and share their need for speed, whilst enjoying the fabulous hospitality for which Dubai and the United Arab Emirates is famous. Away from the track, there will be music, a Concours d’Elégance, food and kids activities in a Arabic festival atmosphere, and a curtain-raising glamorous gala dinner. We look forward to hosting you, and to welcoming some of the most exciting racing cars ever built to the desert in a celebration of horsepower. Frédéric Fatien Owner, GP Extreme

From left to right: 1975 Shadow DNS, 1991 Courage C28

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

and 1980 Fittipaldi F8. Photo: @dubaiautodrome

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

GULF HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Photography: Siddharth Pandey

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 25TH Start

End

8:00

18:00

Duration

Category

Cars Cafe P2

PARKING

GT & Prototype 00s

0:40

GT & Prototype 00s

Race 2

11:20

0:20

GT & Prototype 00s

Podium

11:20

11:50

0:30

Formula 1 90s

Demonstration 3

12:20

13:50

1:30

LUNCH BREAK

13:00

13:01

0:01

Roar Minute

Paddock

13:40

14:10

0:30

Formula 1 70s+

Grid Walk

14:15

14:40

0:25

Formula 1 70s+

Race 2

14:45

15:05

0:20

Formula 1 70s+

Podium

15:15

15:45

0:30

Sports Cars 80s+

Grid Walk

15:50

16:30

0:40

Sports Cars 80s+

Race 2

Sports Cars 80s+

Podium

0:20

MED

PEDESTRIAN ACCESS TO APEX GARDEN & TRACK SIDE VIEWING

PASS HOLDER ENTRY Cars Cafe P2

PARKING

F&B GARDEN

Medical Centre

CLASSIC 1 CAR SHOW

CLASSIC CARS PARKING

MED

CLASSIC RACING CARS PARKING

PARKING

8 7 CHAMPION ARCH

5HISTORIC 4 CAR VICTORY 3 2 LANE

CLASSIC CAR SHOW

Pass Holder Entry

GPX Store

Info Point

Pole Position 12

Exhibitor Village

Land Rover Activation

Sales Grid Walk Tickets

10 Vintage Bicycles

Kids Track

11 Rebellion Booth

Live Band & Podium Pass Holder Entry

12 Gentlemen Drivers’ Club Entry 7 GPX Store

VISITORS

13 Cinema

Village Map

PARKING

CLASSIC RACING CARS PARKING

Stand 4 3

Pit lane Main straight

TECH BAY

RACE ADMIN

TUNNEL ACCESS 14

MEDIA VIP CENTRE PARKING

Grand

14 Grid Walk Entry

Pit lane Main straight CLASSIC CARS PARKING

PEDESTRIAN ACCESS TO APEX GARDEN & TRACK SIDE VIEWING

VIP PARKING

F&B GARDEN

Apex Garden

HISTORIC CAR VICTORY LANE

CHAMPION ARCH

MED

Grid Walk

10:55

16:55

MED

PARKING

Session

11:00

16:35

Apex Garden

PASS HOLDER ENTRY

10:15

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

gpx-store.com @gpx_gpxstore

Medical Centre

GATES OPEN 0:30

gpx-store.com @gpx_gpxstore Unit 4, Dubai Autodrome Business Park

RACING EQUIPMENT, KARTING EQUIPMENT, MOTORSPORTS APPAREL, ART, MEMORABILIA, SIMULATORS

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 27TH Start

Unit 4, Dubai Autodrome Business Park

RACING EQUIPMENT, KARTING EQUIPMENT, MOTORSPORTS APPAREL, ART, MEMORABILIA, SIMULATORS

TUNNEL

Sélection

TUNNEL

PICKS 2022 EDITORS’ HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL TIMETABLE

The ultimate motorsports concept store

TECH Grand RACE BAY StandADMIN

MEDIA CENTRE

15 General Public Entry

Prayer Room 2nd Floor Restrooms 2nd Floor

VISITORS

13 Cinema 10m

20m

40m

Info Point

Pole Position

14 Grid Walk Entry

Exhibitor Village

Land Rover Activation

15 General Public Entry

Sales Grid Walk Tickets

10 Vintage Bicycles

60m

PARKING

TICKET BOOTH

TUNNEL ACCESS

Grand Stand

GENERAL PUBLIC ENTRY

Grand Stand GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 35

GULF HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL

1981 Dubai Grand Prix: the first ever circuit race held in the Persian Gulf!

RACE PROGRAM AND INFORMATION

2-3 DECEMBER 2022 - DUBAI AUTODROME

But the idea of organising an F1 World Championship event in the near future was also part of the organisers' motivation! The absence of a race track and the impossibility of building one in the city streets were the first difficulties encountered by Martin Hone and his event management company International Festival Services. It was therefore decided to build a 2,625-metre race track for the occasion, which was done around the Hyatt Regency Hotel. It was also necessary to bring in stewards and officials from the UK. The cars had to arrive by boat or by plane, so the containers were used as improvised pits!

Walkinshaw won in his Mazda RX7 after a collision at the start that eliminated the best Ford Capris. Finally, the historic race, which featured sports cars from the sixties, was won by Gerry Marshall and his Lola T70 MkIIIB.

After the parades, in which the American astronaut Walt Cunningham was invited to participate, it was time for the races! The festivities began with a race between fifteen or so well-known drivers at the wheel of... Citroën CX. Why was the comfortable French limousine picked? The owner of the Hyatt Regency had also opened a Citroën dealership. Among the competitors were former world champions Jack Brabham, Phil Hill and Denny Hulme, uncrowned champion Stirling Moss, 1967 24 Hours of Le Mans winner Dan Gurney as well as a number of great drivers of the eighties such as Marc Surer, Derek Bell, John Watson, Patrick Tambay and Bruno Giacomelli. A non-exhaustive list! The organisers had definitely not skimped on the means. In the end, it was the latter, the Italian who was racing for Alfa Romeo in F1 at the time, who won a race that only six drivers managed to finish. Given the harshness of the conditions, the mechanics assigned to the Citroëns struggled to get the cars back in shape for the local drivers' race later in the day.

The health of five-time world champion Juan-Manuel Fangio, who had come to the Classic F1 demonstration, was a cause for concern. Already feeling unwell during his trip from Buenos Aires to Dubai, he fell ill after a spin at the wheel of his Mercedes W196 and had to spend a few more days in the Emirates before returning to his country.

The rest of the programme was grandiose. A race for Aston Martin products, under the patronage of Aston Martin president Victor Gauntlett, was won by Mike Salmon's P212 ahead of Roy Salvadori's DBR1. The stars of the British Saloon Car Championship put on a show of their own. Tom

The Swiss Wiedmer, owner of a Porsche 917, must have remembered his trip to Dubai for a long time: to get his car from the airport to the paddock, he chose to carry it with a helicopter. However, the roll bar from which the car was hanging broke and the beautiful German car fell five metres and required extensive repairs!

Finally, a time trial competition between two modern Formula 1 cars, with a prize of US$5,000, was won by John Watson in a McLaren MP4-1—the first F1 car with a carbon fiber chassis—against Patrick Tambay and his Theodore TY01. Among the cars among the final demonstration at the end of this Grand Prix, one could note the Nimrod Aston Martin, planned for the new 1982 Group C rules, or a fabulous McLaren M8D Can-Am. In the end, the first Dubai Grand Prix wasn’t repeated and motor sport enthusiasts had to wait until the construction of the Dubai Autofrome in 2004 to see motorsport racing return in what is now the United Arab Emirates' capital city. But interestingly, 41 years on, the efforts of the pioneers have inspired the organisers and promoters of the Historic Dubai Grand Prix Revival by Gulf Historic who will also be hosting Formula 1 cars, vintage sports cars and top drivers in a festival of automotive and motorsport passion.

The Dubai Grand Prix was held on the 4TH of December 1981 to celebrate the 10TH anniversary of the United Arab Emirates. Text:

ROMANE DIDIER Top photo: the Aston Martin Nimrod at the 1981 Dubai Grand Prix Left photo: Patrick Tambay at the wheel of the Theodore TY01 during the Formula 1 demonstration race This page: Dr Mohammed ben Sulayem with Nigel Mansell (photo courtesy: Dr Mohammed ben Sulayem personal archive)

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

Photo: Antoine Truchet

BRICE LECHEVALIER

70 YEARS POLE POSITION GEBHARDT Intralogistics Group has been a reliable partner for innovative intralogistics and warehouse automation for seven decades. Progress in Intralogistics / Success in Motorsports

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

Photography: Siddharth Pandey

Entry tickets to the Gulf BASED ON THE VERY Historic Dubai FIRST DUBAI GRAND PRIX, GP Revival

Apex Garden Gulf Historic Dubai GP Revival offers an unrivalled variety of racing action, breath-taking driving demonstrations and a host of driver appearances. To help take the edge off, the Apex Garden is on hand to offer a relaxed atmosphere and enjoyable activities, including: - Cinema screen with all of the on-track racing live streamed - Traditional Emirati dance during the Grid Walk. The excitement on the starting grid is always a frenetic affair that you can experience, each pre-race, as close as possible to the cars. - Vintage Roam Roller skaters - Photo booth ...

GULF HISTORIC AND General entrance gives you access to Grandstand, race entertainment and up close to the race cars. Children DUBAI AUTODROME ARE paddock under 12 years have free access (must be accompanied by an adult). Dress code: we count on all attendees to come dressed REVIVING THIS CLASSIC in vintage style, whether it is a simple flat cap or a full classic attire from the 70’s. AND TIMELESS EVENT INCLUDING ALL THE HALLMARKS OF THE 1981 Off Track RACE WITH HISTORIC F1 Attractions Activities show is a must-see for all fans of motorsport who crave a GRAND PRIX, SPORT CARS, The loud and inspirational experience and the action off-track can for children be just as exhilarating as that on circuit and this year there are GTs AND PROTOTYPES several immersive activities and experiences offering fun for all For car and motorsport lovers of all ages and those with a the family. lifelong passion for everything on wheels, this year’s event FROM THE 70’s, 80’s AND From an open paddock and access to the cars available for promises to be the most exciting yet, with plenty of activities for 90's COMPETING ON THE everyone, Roar Minute, podium in the paddock. To a band stand children on offer such as pedal karts, juggle, magician, bubble with musicians, drumming band and 70s dancers or vintage artist, clown, inflatable games, balloons, face painting - and for DUBAI AUTODROME. roller skaters. those with a sweet tooth – popcorn machine and cotton candy.

Gulf Historic, part of GP Extreme Group

WE DON’T SPECULATE ON THE FUTURE. WE BUILD IT. EDMOND DE ROTHSCHILD, BOLD BUILDERS OF THE FUTURE.

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INVESTMENT HOUSE | edmond-de-rothschild.com

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GULF HISTORIC EDITORS’ PICKS DUBAI GP REVIVAL

GULF HISTORIC DUBAI GP REVIVAL

Sélection 2022 EDITION PARTICIPANTS

2022 EDITION PARTICIPANTS

BRICE LECHEVALIER

FORMULA 1 70’S F1 cars from 1970 to 1985, an era that stretched from Jackie Stewart through to Niki Lauda. Entries include the Williams FW07C (1981) that was driven by world champion Alan Jones and his team-mate Carlos Reutemann to the 1981 Formula 1 Constructors’ Championship.

SURTEES-FORD COSWORTH

TS9B

1972 Year: Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: GPX Historic

ENSIGN N173

Year: 1973 Category: Formula 1 70’s John Team: Danby Racing

SHADOW DN3

Year: 1974 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: Drive Vintage

HESKETH-FORD COSWORTH 308B

Year: 1974 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: John Danby Racing

MAKI-FORD COSWORTH F101

Year: 1974 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: GPX Historic

MAKI-FORD COSWORTH F101C

Year: 1975 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: GPX Historic

ATS

HS1

Year: 1978 Category: Formula 1 70’s

GPX Historic 42Team:I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

TYRRELL 010-2

Year: 1980 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: Front Row Racing

FITTIPALDI-FORD COSWORTH F8

Year: 1980 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: John Danby Racing

ARROWS-FORD COSWORTH A3

GRID

S2-Porsche

Year: 1983 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: GPX Historic

MARCH 84G

Year: G 1984 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: GPX Historic

ARGO MAZDA JM16

Year: 1980 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: GPX Historic

Year: 1984 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: GPX Historic

WILLIAMS

174 GEBHARDT JC853

FW07C

Year: 1981 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: Front Row Racing

TYRRELL 011-6

Year: 1983 Category: Formula 1 70’s Team: Front Row Racing

SPORTS CARS 80’S Closed-wheel endurance machines spanning 1982 to 1993, which include Group C, IMSA and GTP cars. Entries include the Le Mans-winning 1986 Rothmans Porsche 962 driven by Derek Bell, Hans-Joachim Stuck and Al Holbert.

RONDEAU-COSWORTH M382

Year: 1982 Category: Sports Cars 80s Team: John Danby Racing

181

ARGO

JM19D

Year: 1982 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: MJTECH

Year: 1985 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: Gebhardt Motorsport

PORSCHE 962

Year: 1986 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: Rofgo Racing

TOYOTA 86C

SPICE-FERRARI SE90P

BENETTON B196

Year: 1990 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: GPX Historic

Year: 1996 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: GPX Historic

FORMULA 1 90’S

GT & PROTOTYPE 00’S

F1 cars from 1987 to 1994, when Ayrton Senna, Alain Prost and Nigel Mansell ruled. Entries include the V12-powered Ferrari 643 (1991) raced by Prost and team-mate Jean Alesi during the 1991 championship, picking up six podiums along the way.

Le Mans GT and Sports Prototype beasts from 1994 to 2010, including FIA World Endurance Championship and IMSA cars. Entries include the beautiful Maserati MC12 GT1 (2007); a V12 monster driven to success in the FIA GT Championship between 2005 and 2009.

LEYTON HOUSE 871

Year: 1987 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: John Danby Racing

FERRARI 333 SP

Year: 1995 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: JMB Classic

LOLA

B2/40

Year: 2000 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: Sport Meca

FERRARI

550 GTS

Year: 2003 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: JMB Classic

MASERATI

MC12 GT1

Year: 2007 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: JMB Classic

PESCAROLO LMP1 01

Year: 2007 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: JMB Classic

SALEEN

S7R GT1

Year: 2007 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: Larbre Competion

PORSCHE

RS SPYDER

Year: 2008 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: JMB Classic

ASTON MARTIN DBR9

Year: 2008 Category: GT & Prototype 00’s Team: Rofgo Racing

FERRARI 643

Year: 1991 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: Drive Vintage

BENETTON B192

Year: 1991 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: MJTECH

BRABHAM BT60B

The racing action is not exclusive to just four wheels! Join us for a 70s-style GP Revival on Bicycles. Paying homage to an era where drivers, mechanics and engineers used to go on reconnaissance laps of the track together before each race weekend, we invite you to come and join in the jovial mood, embrace the spirit of intense racing and go head-to-head with others around the circuit on Saturday evening.

Year: 1986 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: GPX Historic

GEBHARDT C88

Year: 1986 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: Gebhardt Motorsport

NISSAN

NPT 90

Year: 1990 Category: Sports Cars 80s+ Team: Venture - Stuart Gale

Year: 1992 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: MJTECH

FOOTWORK FA14

Year: 1993 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: John Danby Racing

Wheel-to-wheel action:

allowed

Equipment:

bicycle & jersey provided

Enter the race now:

200 AED entry fee

Further information at the Information & Program booth.

BENETTON B196

Year: 1996 Category: Formula 1 90’s Team: GPX Historic

SAT 26 NOV

17.05PM

2 GP LAPS

70’S STYLE BICYCLES GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS DRIVING EXPERIENCES BMW M3 Competition

Sélection 510BMW BHP M3 Competition

The all-new BMW M3 Competitions sole reason for existence is to bring out the inner kid in you! 510 BHP

BMW M4 Competition

510BMW BHP M4 Competition The all-new BMW M4 is ridged, ultra-fast and packs

BMW M240i 374BMW BHP M240i

AED 1,500

With its 374 hp BMW M TwinPower inline 6-cylinder engine and a host of performance enhancing 374 BHP features the M240i is a track weapon! With its 374 hp BMW M TwinPower inline 6-cylinder engine and a host of performance enhancing AED 1,050 features the M240i is a track weapon!

BRICE LECHEVALIER AED 1,500

AED 1,500

AED 1,050

The all-new BMW M3 Competitions sole reason for existence is to bring out the inner kid in you!

BMW M3 Competition

510 BHP

a punch!

The all-new BMW M4 is ridged, ultra-fast and packs a punch!

BMW M4 Competition

510 BHP

The all-new BMW M3 Competitions sole reason for Ferrari GT existence is to bring outExperience the inner kid in you!

The all-new BMW M4 is ridged, ultra-fast and packs FORMULA DXB MAX a punch!

570Ferrari BHP GT Experience

Extremely responsive, great performance & AED 1,500

superb handling. Extensive development has 570 BHP honed this thoroughbred for the Track. Extremely responsive, great performance & superb handling. Extensive development has AED honed 3,500 this thoroughbred for the Track.

AED 3,500

Ferrari GT Experience

180FORMULA BHP DXB MAX

BMW M240i 374 BHP With its 374 hp BMW M TwinPower inline 6-cylinder Formula 1 Experience engine and a host of performance enhancing features the M240i is a track weapon!

550Formula BHP 1 Experience

AED 1,100

AED 9,995

AED 1,500

Passenger Rides Passenger FORMULA DXBRides MAX

Formula 1 Experience

Drive a formula single-seater on the 2.46km Club Circuit Dubai Autodrome. Hot atLap Experience

AEDBHP 3,500 231 MINI Cooper JCW

Hot Lap Experience AED 1,100 Experience the exhilaration from the passenger seat -

205-625 BHP

Arrive & Drive Karting

AED 9,995 13 BHP

Arrive & Drive Karting

With 231 HP of pure power and the hallmark agility and 231handling BHPof MINI, our fleet of MINI John Cooper Works is ready to set your heart racing!! With 231 HP of pure power and the hallmark agility and handling of MINI, our fleet of MINI John Cooper AED Works 825 is ready to set your heart racing!!

strapped in nextBHP to a professional instructor. 205-625

AED 250-950 Passenger Rides

AED 115-145

AED 825

AED 250-950

AED 115-145

With 231 HP of pure power and the hallmark agility and handling of MINI, our fleet of MINI John Cooper Works is ready to set your heart racing!!

DA Driving Experiences Menu 259mm x 200mm.indd 1

AED 825

professional driving instructor!

205Clio BHP Cup Experience

AED 1,100

The pinnacle AED 1,050 of Driving Experiences - F1. Join

Extremely responsive, great performance & superb handling. Extensive development has honed this thoroughbred for the Track.

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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève e

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER BRICE LECHEVALIER

Le 12 Art a ses Oscars

ondé en 2001 par deux entrepreneurs amoureux d’horlogerie, qui avaient la même année créé le site WorldTempus avec 30 marques parmi les plus prestigieuses, le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève est rapidement devenu incontournable. Adoré par les gagnants, décrié par les marques non distinguées, doté d’un jury parfois opaque dans ses choix, il a ensuite été cédé au groupe de presse Edipresse qui a eu la sagesse de le confier en 2010 à une fondation neutre et indépen-

dante, présidée par l’ancien conseiller d’Etat Carlo Lamprecht. Fervent défenseur de l’horlogerie et des valeurs suisses en général, constamment enthousiaste et pragmatique, il avait aussi imaginé le 12e Art en 2012, l’Art de la mesure du temps. Il nous a malheureusement quitté au printemps 2022. Nous rendons hommage à sa vision et à sa passion qui ont fait passer le GPHG dans une autre dimension, plus fédératrice, doté d’un jury au-dessus de tout soupçon. Avec le GPHG, la belle horlogerie a ses Oscars. La comparaison a d’ailleurs pris plus de sens avec le passage d’un nouveau cap en 2020, sous l’impulsion de son successeur Raymond Loretan, initiateur de l’Académie du GPHG. Opérationnelle pour la troisième fois cette année, elle a montré toute la pertinence de son action. Ses quelque 700 membres ont proposé un nombre record de nouvelles marques, preuve d’une ouverture inédite aux acteurs du 12e Art au sens large. Or, leurs votes ont majoritairement permis aux valeurs sûres et reconnues d’être sélectionnées, reflétant donc une certaine conscience collective de l’industrie horlogère. La cérémonie de remise des prix est à suivre en direct le 10 novembre sur WorldTempus. com, qui publiera tous les résultats dans les 15 catégories. Nous lui consacrons d’ores et déjà ces 15 pages, et vous offrons par ailleurs le catalogue officiel contenu dans cette édition.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The 12th Art has its Oscars

ounded in 2001 by two watchmaking-loving entrepreneurs, who in the same year created the WorldTempus website with 30 of the most prestigious brands, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève quickly became a must-attend event. Adored by laureates, decried by brands that did not win, and with a jury that was sometimes opaque in its choices, it was then handed over to the Edipresse press group, which had the wisdom to entrust it in 2010 to a neutral and

independent foundation chaired by former State Councillor Carlo Lamprecht. A fervent advocate of watch-

making and Swiss values in general, this perpetually enthusiastic and pragmatic individual also came up in 2012 with the idea of the 12th Art: the Art of time measurement. He passed away in the spring of 2022 and we pay tribute to his vision and passion, which ushered the GPHG into a new and more unifying dimension, with a jury enjoying greater credibility than ever. Fine watchmaking has its Oscars with the GPHG and the comparison has become more meaningful with the transition to a new stage in 2020, under the aegis of his successor Raymond Loretan, initiator of the GPHG Academy. Operational for the third time this year, it has demonstrated the relevance of its activity. Its 700 or so members put forward a record number of new brands, proof of unprecedented openness to the actors of the 12th Art in the broadest sense. In the end, their votes led mainly to the nomination of established and recognized brands, reflecting a certain collective awareness within the watch industry. The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on 10 November on worldtempus. com, which will publish all the results in the 15 categories. We are already dedicating these 15 pages to this event, as well as treating you to the official catalog contained in this edition.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

SAMPLING Since its creation in 2020, the Academy has been

BRICE LECHEVALIER

expanded to its current size. It guarantees the independence of the nomination process, with each member being alone in front of their computer to

DAVID CHOKRON

GPHG 2022

Les grands axes du Grand Prix

How the Grand Prix is shaping up En toute logique, la sélection finale des candidats au GPHG reste la chasse gardée des marques les plus connues. Mais les outsiders continuent à tirer leur épingle du jeu.

Quite logically, the final selection of candidates for the GPHG remains the preserve of the best-known brands, yet outsiders continue to make their mark.

make their choices. Because of its size and variety, it benefits from an aura of representativeness, but also from a logical human touch. Clearly, everyone votes as they wish, but this choice is guided by the

ECHANTILLON

nature of the watches considered.

Après avoir été créée en 2020, l’Académie a été élargie pour atteindre sa taille actuelle. Elle est garante de

ECLECTICISM

l’indépendance de la pré-sélection, chaque membre

One of the strengths of the new Grand Prix formula

étant seul face à son ordinateur pour opérer ses

– in accordance with the wishes the President of its

choix. Par sa taille et sa variété, elle bénéficie d’une

governing Foundation, Raymond Loretan – is its

aura de représentativité, mais aussi d’une huma-

openness. Brands from all countries, of all sizes and

nité toute logique. En clair, chacun vote comme

with all levels of fame and experience can partici-

il veut, mais ce choix est orienté par la nature des

pate. Among these, there have never been so many

montres considérées.

first-timers, unknown names or others known only within their geographical area of origin. The first les-

here is no escaping the obvious. In any selection

ECLECTISME

son of this 2022 edition is that it is tough for those

process, it is the most visible, the most recognized,

Une des forces de la nouvelle formule du Grand Prix,

within these categories to make it through the initial

the most reassuring entities that come out on top.

voulue par le Président de la fondation qui le régit,

selection filter, which is quite logical in itself. The

The final selection of nominees for the Grand Prix

Raymond Loretan, est son ouverture. Des marques

major participating brands are global, well-known

d’Horlogerie de Genève Prix, better known as the

de tous les pays, de toutes les tailles, de tous les

and have a past including historical contacts with

d’Horlogerie de Genève, plus connu sous le nom de GPHG, ne fait

GPHG, is no exception. At this stage, six watches have been nomi-

niveaux de notoriété et d’expérience peuvent y parti-

the members of the Academy. They therefore repre-

pas exception. A ce stade, six montres sont retenues dans chacune

nated in each of the 15 categories, from which the two voting bod-

ciper. Et parmi celles-ci, elles n’ont jamais été aussi

sent the vast majority of the finalists. 

des quinze catégories, parmi lesquelles les deux corps votants du

ies of the Grand Prix will choose a winner. In total, the Watchmak-

nombreuses à être débutantes, inconnues, ou alors

Grand Prix devront choisir un vainqueur. Au total, les Oscars de

ing Oscars will award a total of 20 prizes, one per category and five

connues seulement dans leur zone géographique

l’horlogerie décerneront un total de vingt récompenses, une par

special prizes, including the coveted “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix

d’origine. Le premier enseignement de cette édition

catégorie et cinq prix spéciaux, dont la très convoitée Aiguille

“best-in-show” prize. The first of the above-mentioned bodies is

2022 est qu’elles ont du mal à passer le premier filtre

d’Or. Le premier de ces corps est l’Académie, un ensemble non

the Academy: an uncoordinated group of 676 members chosen

de sélection et ce fait est on ne peut plus logique.

coordonné de 676 membres, choisis parmi des acteurs de l’univers

from watchmaking circles worldwide. They do not communicate

Les grandes marques participantes sont globales,

de l’horlogerie, partout dans le monde. Ils ne communiquent ni

with each other, with the jury or with the organizers of the com-

connues, ont un contact historique avec les membres

entre eux, ni avec le jury, ni avec l’organisation du concours. C’est

petition. It is their vote that served to trim the 254 candidate time-

de l’Académie, un passé. Elles représentent donc

leur vote qui a permis de passer de 254 garde-temps candidats à 90.

pieces to 90 nominees.

l’immense majorité des finalistes. 

n ne peut pas échapper aux évidences. Dans tout processus de sélection, ce sont les entités les plus visibles, les plus reconnues, les plus rassurantes aussi, qui sortent gagnantes. En cela, la sélection finale des candidats au Grand Prix

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Automate Fontaine aux oiseaux VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Fontaine aux oiseaux automaton

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultra-thin « RD#3 »

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

BRICE LECHEVALIER

PLAYERS IN THE MIX This does not prevent a few emerging entities and even a few outsiders. Although the nominations

Jean-Christophe Babin CEO, Bvlgari Group

give pride of place to Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari or Chopard and while Parmigiani Fleurier and Grand Seiko demonstrate their importance, we continue to find players more reputed for their inventiveness than for their commercial clout. The strength of the GPHG is that it continues to make room for stakeholders such as Voutilainen, MB&F, Jacob & Co. and Armin Strom. Among this litany of well-known names, one should nonetheless mention three brands that do not have the historical or even recent aura of the above-mentioned ones. DRT, Théo Auffret and Sylvain Pinaud are each in their own way proof that it is still possible to reach the nomination stage without belonging to the elite. The GPHG is still keeping its promise as a peerless reputation accelerator. In the particular case of the Mechanical Clock category with its rela-

FORCES EN PRÉSENCE

tively little-known protagonists, the phenomenon

Cela n’empêche pas quelques émergences, des phéno-

is even stronger.

mènes d’outsider même. Alors que les nominations font la part belle aux Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef &

FINAL PHASE

Arpels, Bvlgari ou Chopard, alors que des Parmigiani

The GPHG’s second voting body, its jury, will meet

Fleurier ou Grand Seiko font état de leur importance,

in the days leading up to the awards ceremony on

on continue à trouver des acteurs qui brillent par leur

10 November 2022, to make its final choices. Until

inventivité plus que par leur surface commerciale.

then, the 90 finalists will tour the world, with a

La force du GPHG reste de continuer à donner une

traveling exhibition taking them from Geneva to

place à des Voutilainen, MB&F, Jacob & Co. ou encore

New Delhi and then Casablanca before returning

Armin Strom. Dans ce concert de noms connus, il

home. For the record, the group of 30 members as a

faut encore mentionner trois marques qui n’ont pas

whole has two-thirds of the voting rights, with the

l’aura historique, même récente, de celles citées pré-

remaining third in the hands of the Academy.

Octo Finissimo Calendrier Perpétuel Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

cédemment. DRT, Théo Auffret et Sylvain Pinaud, chacun à sa manière, sont la preuve que l’on peut encore passer le cap des présélections sans appartenir

Quel est votre meilleur souvenir du GPHG en 20 ans ?

What is your best memory of the GHPG in 20 years?

au sérail. Le GPHG tient encore sa promesse d’accélé-

J’en ai deux en fait ! Le tout premier avec TAG Heuer en 2002 pour

I actually have two! The very first one with TAG Heuer in 2002 for

rateur de notoriété sans équivalent. Dans le cas par-

le Mikrotimer au design révolutionnaire, et bien sûr les deux

the Mikrotimer with its revolutionary design, and of course the

ticulier de la catégorie Horloge Mécanique, métier

« Aiguille d’Or » : 2012 pour TAG Heuer et 2021 pour Bvlgari. Je

two “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix wins: 2012 for TAG Heuer, and 2021

dont les acteurs sont mécaniquement peu connus, le

pense être le seul PDG a en avoir eu deux, avec deux marques tota-

for Bvlgari. I think I’m the only CEO to have had two with two

phénomène est encore plus fort.

lement différentes et indépendantes l’une de l’autre.

totally different brands that are independent of each other.

PHASE FINALE

En quoi 2022 est une année spéciale pour Bvlgari, quel modèle

Why is 2022 a special year for Bvlgari and which model best

Le second corps votant du GPHG, son jury, se réunira

la symbolise le mieux ?

symbolizes that?

dans les jours précédant la cérémonie de remise de

Je retiens l’Octo Finissimo Ultra bien sûr, qui au-delà de la min-

I would of course single out the Octo Finissimo Ultra which, above

prix, qui se tiendra le 10 novembre 2022, pour opérer

ceur extraordinaire de la pièce, fait entrer la montre mécanique

and beyond its extraordinary slimness, ushers the mechanical

son choix. D’ici là, les 90 finalistes feront le tour du

de haute horlogerie dans le Metavers et les NFTs digitaux artis-

watch into the Metaverse and artistic digital NFTs. A revolution

monde, une exposition itinérante les faisant voyager

tiques. Une révolution qui unit tradition et avant-garde.

combining tradition and avant-garde.

retour au bercail. Pour mémoire, le groupe de trente

Que faudrait-il de plus au GPHG ?

What more do you think the GHG would need?

membres dispose dans son ensemble des deux tiers

La participation de plus de marques emblématiques de notre belle

The participation of more brands emblematic of our beautiful

des droits de vote, le tiers restant demeurant entre les

horlogerie afin de donner au GPHG encore plus de crédibilité et de

watch industry in order to give the GPHG even more credibility and

légitimité internationales. Mais le niveau est déjà très élevé.

international legitimacy. But the level is already very high.

de Genève à New Delhi, puis Casablanca avant leur

mains de l’Académie.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

VOUTILAINEN

CHOPARD

Ji-Ku

L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection GPHG 2022 Edition Jury BRICE LECHEVALIER

The 2022 GPHG Jury included watch experts and other amaz-

PRESIDENT

ing personalities from the world of watchmaking and the

arts, with their expertise united by Historian, Author, and

NICK FOULKES

GEOFFROY ADER

Journalist, Nick Foulkes who chaired the Jury.

Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom

Watch expert / France

DANIELA DUFOUR

DENIS FLAGEOLLET

ALDIS HODGE

Watchmaker / Switzerland

Creator, watch conceptor and cofounder of De Bethune / Switzerland

Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom

LAURENCE JANIN-SCHLEMMER Historian, author and journalist / United Kingdom

DEREMI AJIDAHUN

AMR ALOTAISHAN

JON ARTECHE

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN

XAVIER JOURDAIN

WEI KOH

MARINE LEMONNIER

FRÉDÉRIC LOIZEAU

CEO of Hole19 Group and publisher of GMT Africa / Nigeria

CEO of Reuge, watch collector / Switzerland

Director of Rabat Madrid, watch collector / Spain

CEO of Bulgari, the brand that won the 2021 «Aiguille d’Or» Grand Prix

CEO of Estima / Switzerland

Founder of Revolution and The Rake Magazines / Singapore

Founder of 289 Consulting, communication expert / Switzerland

Business & technology development manager of CSEM / Switzerland

LUDOVIC BALLOUARD

GEORGE BAMFORD

ATISH BANERJEA

FÉLIX BAUMGARTNER

GIORGIA MONDANI

OLIVIER MORY

DIANA PICASSO

LAURENT PICCIOTTO

Independent watchmaker and designer / Switzerland

Founder and CEO of Bamford Watch Department and Bamford London / United Kingdom

Technology executive of Meta / USA

Founder of Urwerk / Switzerland

Digital entrepreneur in the world of luxury watches, author / Italy

Watchmaker, founder of Skill / Switzerland

Art historian, curator and co-founder of Menē / France

Founder and owner of Chronopassion / France

LAURENT BESSE

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER

ADAM CLAYTON

BRIAN DUFFY

HIND SEDDIQI

ROBIN SWITHINBANK

MICHAEL TAY

AHMED RAHMAN

Horological constructor of Mercier Solutions / France

Watch collector / Switzerland

Musician / Ireland

CEO of The Watches of Switzerland Group / United Kingdom

Director general of Dubai Watch Week / Dubai

Journalist / United Kingdom

Group managing director of The Hour Glass Limited / Singapore

Watch collector and entrepreneur / United Kingdom

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

TAG HEUER Porsche 911 Carrera RS2.7

Il existe une longue relation entre le GPHG et TAG Heuer qui a

The GPHG enjoys a longstanding relationship with TAG Heuer,

déjà remporté l’Aiguille d’Or. Après 5 ans chez TAG Heuer et un

which has already won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix best-in-

regard relativement jeune sur cette institution, quelle en est

show award. After five years with TAG Heuer and a relatively

votre perception ?

youthful perspective on this institution, could you share your

Le GPHG est un rendez-vous très attendu, une institution dans

thoughts?

notre industrie depuis plus de vingt ans. Il est toujours stimulant

The GPHG is a highly anticipated event, an institution in our

de pouvoir être en compétition avec nos pairs, c’est une émulation

industry for over 20 years. It is always stimulating to be able to

qui nous pousse à toujours nous améliorer. D’autant plus que nous

compete with our peers and this healthy emulation consistently

avons de belles pièces en compétition cette année, telles que la TAG

drives us to improve. Especially in a year like this one when we

Heuer Carrera et son innovation majeure Diamant d’avant-garde,

have some great timepieces competing such as the TAG Heuer

la TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver ou encore la

Carrera and its major avant-garde Diamond innovation, the TAG

Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph.

Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver and the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph.

Votre actualité 2022 est très dense, est-ce que les résultats suivent (notamment dans quelles collections) ?

There’s a lot going on for the brand in terms of new releases: how

En effet, notre plan produit est dense et nous sommes très satis-

successful are they proving (and in which collections especially)?

faits de l’accueil réservé à nos modèles lors de leurs lancements.

Our product plan is indeed extremely intense and we are very satis-

Nous avec connu une très bonne performance l’année dernière et

fied with how our models are being received. We achieved excellent

nous ressentons une énergie très positive autour de la marque et

performance last year and we feel a very positive energy around the

de ses nouveaux modèles. Nous continuons donc sur cette belle

brand and its new models. Our product plan is solid and ambitious,

dynamique en 2022 : notre plan produit est solide et ambitieux

reflecting in-depth work undertaken to clarify our collections. Our

avec un travail de fond pour clarifier nos collections, notre déve-

retail development has accelerated and we have continued our

loppement retail s’est accéléré et nous avons pérennisé notre

digital transformation, enabling us to cover 95% of our markets in

transformation digitale qui nous permet de couvrir 95% de nos

e-commerce.

marchés en e-commerce. The Aquaracer line has evolved considerably, with a diversifi-

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Frédéric Arnault CEO TAG Heuer

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

La ligne Aquaracer a profondément évolué, avec une diversifi-

cation of functions (in particular a GMT) and a move upmarket,

cation des fonctions (notamment une GMT) et une montée en

towards a new clientele?

gamme, vers une nouvelle clientèle ?

We have indeed significantly redesigned the Aquaracer collection

Nous avons effectivement fortement repensé la collection Aquaracer

in order to offer better perceived value and to be able to meet our

dans le but d’offrir une meilleure valeur perçue et d’être en mesure

customers’ requirements. While maintaining the sporty and high-

de répondre aux exigences de nos clients. Tout en gardant l’esprit

performance spirit that made this legendary watch famous, we

sportif et performant qui a fait la renommée de cette montre légen-

have revamped the collection down to the last detail. For example,

daire, nous avons retravaillé jusqu’au moindre détail la collection.

the design teams worked extensively on ensuring a perfect fit on all

Les équipes du design ont par exemple travaillé longuement sur un

wrists, as well as on invisible elements such as the sound and feel

porter parfait pour tous les poignets, ou sur les éléments invisibles

of the bezel’s rotation. We also integrated sustainable movements

comme le son et le ressenti du cliquetis de rotation de la lunette.

such as Caliber TH30-00 powering the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Profes-

Nous avons également intégré des mouvements durables tels que

sional 1000 Superdiver, or the TH 50-00 Solargraph movement driv-

le calibre TH30-00 qui équipe la TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional

ing the first solar-powered Aquaracer. 

1000 Superdiver, ou le mouvement TH 50-00 Solargraph intégré à la première Aquaracer fonctionnant à l’énergie solaire. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Pascal Raffy

Propriétaire de Bovet 1822 Owner of Bovet 1822 TAG HEUER Porsche 911 Carrera RS2.7

La collaboration avec Porsche connait aussi un rythme plus

What stands out for you most about your “Aiguille d’Or”

Cette prestigieuse récompense est un honneur et une fierté. Elle

Grand Prix win?

salue, par un jury d’experts, la passion qui nous habite et le talent

This prestigious award is an honor and a source of pride. It embod-

exceptionnel de nos artisans ainsi que le parfait équilibre entre maî-

ies recognition from a jury of experts of the passion we nurture and

trise technique et arts décoratifs.

of our artisans’ exceptional talent, as well as of the perfect balance

soutenu, vous venez de fêter ensemble le 50e anniversaire de

Your collaboration with Porsche is also moving at a faster

la Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7, parlez-nous de ces deux chrono-

pace and you have just jointly celebrated the 50th anniversary

graphes Carrera.

of the Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7. Tell us about these two Car-

Bovet célèbre son 200e anniversaire cette année, quelle est

Il s’agit du quatrième opus de notre collaboration avec Porsche et

rera chronographs.

pour vous la pièce la plus emblématique à cette occasion ?

Bovet is celebrating its 200th anniversary this year; looking

nous avons uni à nouveau nos forces créatives pour lancer deux nou-

This is the fourth installment of our collaboration with Porsche

En ce 200 anniversaire d’existence, nous célébrons le remarquable

back on this occasion, which do you see as the Maison’s most

velles montres en édition limitée qui rendent un vibrant hommage

and we have once again joined forces to launch two new limited-

patrimoine horloger de la Maison Bovet, tout autant traditionnel

emblematic timepiece?

à l’un des modèles les plus emblématiques de Porsche. Pour mar-

edition watches that pay a vibrant tribute to one of Porsche’s most

qu’innovant. Pour son boîtier extraordinaire à la versatilité inéga-

On this 200th anniversary, we are celebrating Bovet’s remarkable

quer le 50e anniversaire de la 911 Carrera RS 2.7, nous avons voulu

iconic models.

between technical mastery and decorative arts.

lée, les arts décoratifs qu’il présente ainsi que sa réserve de marche

watchmaking heritage, which is as traditional as it is innovative.

créer une montre qui exprimerait le caractère et la puissance de

To mark the 50th anniversary of the 911 Carrera RS2.7, we wanted

exceptionnelle, le Tourbillon Amadéo Amadéo Tourbillon Sque-

The Amadéo Amadéo Skeleton Tourbillon, entirely manufactured in

cette voiture de sport légendaire en l’insufflant dans notre chrono-

to create a watch that would express the character and power of

lette, manufacturé intégralement au sein de nos ateliers, est le plus

our workshops, is the most emblematic of our timepieces, thanks

graphe iconique TAG Heuer Carrera.

this legendary sports car by infusing it into our iconic TAG Heuer

emblématique de nos garde-temps.

to its exceptional case featuring unequalled versatility, along with

Les deux garde-temps que nous avons imaginés avec les équipes

Carrera chronograph.

the decorative arts it features and its exceptional power reserve.

Porsche allient un design à la fois épuré et affirmé. Ils reflètent le

The two timepieces we created with the Porsche teams combine

passé légendaire des Carrera mais projettent également toute l’au-

a sleek, yet assertive design. They reflect the legendary past of

Pour les Maisons qui, comme la nôtre, disposent de véritables

What more do you think the GPHG would need?

dace et la modernité de ce que Porsche et TAG Heuer peuvent désor-

the Carrera, but also project the boldness and modernity of what

manufactures indépendantes et intégrées, la rencontre entre les

For Maisons such as ours that have truly independent and inte-

mais réaliser ensemble.

Porsche and TAG Heuer can now achieve together.

membres du jury et les artisans des marques qui sont dans la sélec-

grated Manufactures, an encounter between jury members and

tion finale du GPHG serait une valeur ajoutée certaine. Elle permet-

artisans of the brands that are in the final selection of GPHG nomi-

trait de mieux apprécier les garde-temps à la lumière de la passion,

nees would bring definite added value. It would enable even better

chaque jour renouvelée, des artisans en Helvétie.

appreciation of the timepieces in light of the daily renewed passion

« Les deux garde-temps que nous “The two timepieces we created avons imaginés avec les équipes with the Porsche teams combine Porsche allient un design à la fois a sleek, yet assertive design.” épuré et affirmé. »

Que retenez-vous de votre Aiguille d’Or ?

Observez-vous un effet Porsche sur la notoriété et les ventes

Above and beyond the products created together, are you see-

de TAG Heuer au-delà des produits créés ensemble ?

ing a ‘Porsche effect’ on TAG Heuer brand awareness and sales?

Dès le début de notre collaboration, du premier TAG Heuer Carrera

From the beginning of our collaboration, from the first TAG Heuer

Porsche Chronographe Édition Spéciale à la récente TAG Heuer

Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition to the recent TAG

Connected x Porsche, le succès des co-créations TAG Heuer x Porsche

Heuer Connected x Porsche, TAG Heuer x Porsche co-creations

a toujours été au rendez-vous. Nous sommes très fiers de ces résul-

have always been successful.

tats qui nous confortent dans notre volonté commune d’offrir

We are very proud of these results, which confirm our shared

toujours plus de belles créations horlogères pour tous les fans des

desire to offer more and more beautiful watch creations for all

marques TAG Heuer et Porsche.

devotees of the TAG Heuer and Porsche brands.

Comment se profile TAG Heuer dans l’environnement incertain

How is TAG Heuer faring in the uncertain environment of this

de cet hiver et de 2023, quelles seront les priorités ?

winter and the year to come; what will the priorities be?

Le contexte international reste incertain mais nous sommes

The international context remains uncertain but we are confident

confiants dans l’avenir et dans notre capacité à résister. Nous

in the future and in our ability to stand firm. We have mapped out

avons tracé une stratégie sur le long terme, basée sur un travail de

a long-term strategy, based on in-depth work on our collections,

fond sur nos collections, notre réseau et notre écosystème e-com-

our network and our e-commerce ecosystem. With these priorities

merce. Avec ces priorités en tête, alliées à notre esprit d’avant-

in mind, combined with our avant-garde spirit, we are ready to

garde, nous sommes prêts à relever tous les défis.

meet any challenge.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Que faudrait-il de plus au GPHG ?

cultivated by the artisans exercising their craft in Switzerland.

Amadéo Amadéo Tourbillon Squelette Amadéo Amadéo Skeleton Tourbillon GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

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EDITORS’ PICKS

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Free Access to the World of Watchmaking

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Articles from our experts Exclusive videos Audio articles (for club members) GMT digital magazine (for club members)

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Carine Maillard

Directrice du GPHG Director of the GPHG How does the 2022 edition differ from previous ones

What more does the GPHG need in order to become even

(categories, ceremony, etc?)

more inescapable?

This is the 22nd edition of the GPHG and the third edition since the

Time; it’s only 21 years old!

creation of the Academy – an institution that has grown in three years to encompass more than 650 members and which has had a

The Middle East is a booming region on all fronts, and especially

measurably positive effect on the development of the GPHG. Con-

so on the horological fronts. What are your feelings on this vis a

ceived in a unifying spirit, this Grand Prix depends on all the stake-

vis the growth of GPHG in the region?

holders in this industry and this is accentuated by our Academy,

Dubai has been a stage of our traveling exhibition for many years,

which brings together the actors of the various sectors and involves

thanks to a very good partnership with the Seddiqi family. We first

them at all stages of the competition. The 2022 edition is notably

organized exhibitions presenting the nominated watches of the

distinguished by the creation of the “Mechanical Clock” category,

GPHG and now since the creation of the Dubai Watch Week we take

which opens the competition to longcase clocks and table clocks, at

part in each edition by presenting the winning watches.

the request of many brands. In addition, the “Chronometry Prize” is back; a sustainable approach can be rewarded in the Innovation

Do you have plans for greater ties within the Middle East Region?

Prize ;and the 2022 exhibitions will highlight the nominated time-

Nothing else planned for the moment but we are very aware of the

pieces and then award winners in New Delhi, Casablanca (the first

importance of this market..

such stop-over on the African continent), Geneva, Zurich and New York (see the exhibition schedule on gphg.org). Which is the edition that made the great impression on you/of which you are proudest since 2001? I am happy with how far we have come since the Foundation was created in 2011, to see that we are approaching our primary objec-

It is also possible to customize the app to follow your favourite brands, or listen to the weekly news round-up in 60 seconds.

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tives of sustainability, independence, internationalization; and that our work on behalf of this industry has a purpose.

This app is developed by GMT Publishing exclusively for GMT and WorldTempus readers. 60

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Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

OLIVIER MÜLLER

GPHG Academy Le grand saut The big leap

Dernière évolution du GPHG, l’Académie en étend la dimension participative et la transparence. Une création majeure qui accroît la légitimité du Grand Prix.

l faut avoir le cœur solide pour faire voguer le navire GPHG. A sa création en 2001, l’idée est de faire rayonner la belle horlogerie dans le monde entier. Déjà, des esprits taquins se chamaillent sur le caractère genevois de l’initiative. Le débat n’avait en réalité aucun fondement : dès la première

année, un prix fut attribué à une maison florentine (Gucci) ! On a ensuite reproché au Grand Prix la variabilité de ses distinc-

Representing the latest evolution of the GPHG, the Academy extends its participative dimension as well as its transparency. A major creation that further enhances the credibility of the Grand Prix.

t takes a firm hand to sail the GPHG ship. When it was

VENT NOUVEAU

A FRESH BREEZE

C’est ainsi qu’en 2018, Raymond Loretan, qui prend

In 2018 Raymond Loretan was appointed President

alors la présidence du Conseil de la Fondation, sou-

of the Foundation’s Board and both he and GPHG

tient avec Carine Maillard l’idée d’une Académie

Director Carine Maillard supported the idea of a

pluridisciplinaire et ouverte. Dans un état où la

multidisciplinary and open Academy. In a coun-

souveraineté populaire est au fondement de l’ac-

try where the “sovereign will of the people” is the

tion, introduire une dose de proportionnelle n’est

basis of action, introducing a proportional repre-

peut-être pas, après tout, une mauvaise chose.

sentation approach might not be a bad thing after

L’idée fait son chemin avec une étonnante rapidité.

all. The idea caught on with surprising speed and

Dès 2020, l’Académie du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

the Academy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

Genève voit le jour.

Genève was created in 2020.

created in 2001, the idea was to contribute to spread-

Son fonctionnement est, peu ou prou, celui des

Its operation is more or less the same as that of

ing the worldwide reputation of fine watchmaking.

grandes institutions des autres arts comme les

the great institutions of other arts, such as the César

While certain sceptics were already bickering about the

Césars ou les Oscars. L’Académie propose d’abord des

Awards in France and the Oscars. The Academy first

Genevan nature of the initiative, such worries proved

montres éligibles dans les 15 catégories existantes,

proposes eligible watches in the 15 categories con-

unfounded, as that same year a prize was awarded to a Florence-

montres qui sont ensuite soumises aux marques

cerned, which are then submitted to the brands con-

based company (Gucci)!

concernées. A ce stade, elles peuvent décider ou non

cerned. At this stage, they can decide whether or not

tions. Futile argutie : si toutes les catégories avaient été conservées

The Grand Prix was then criticized for the variability of its

de confirmer les montres en question. Les marques

to confirm the watches in question. Brands not sug-

à l’identique, on aurait probablement reproché au GPHG l’inverse,

awards from year to year. A pointless argument, since if all the

non proposées par l’Académie peuvent également

gested by the Academy can also spontaneously put

son immobilisme. Mais ainsi vont les grandes inventions : elles

categories had been kept exactly the same, the GPHG would

présenter spontanément leurs propres pièces.

forward their own timepieces.

sont ouvertes au succès comme à la critique. C’est d’ailleurs en

doubtless have been criticized for just opposite issue, of immo-

leur prêtant une oreille attentive, constructive, que leurs méca-

bility. That is exactly what often happens with great inventions:

nismes peuvent évoluer et s’améliorer.

they are open to success as well as to criticism. It is by listening attentively and constructively to these reactions that their mechanisms can evolve and improve.

Son fonctionnement est, peu ou prou, celui des grandes institutions des autres arts, comme les Césars ou les Oscars.

Its operation is more or less the same as that of the great institutions of other arts, such as the César Awards in France and the Oscars.

Deux tours de vote sont ensuite organisés. Au pre-

Two rounds of voting are then organized. In the

mier, l’Académie restreint la sélection à 90 pièces.

first, the Academy narrows down the selection to 90

Au second, un jury de 30 membres de l’Académie se

nominees, and in the second, a jury of 30 Academy

réunit pour évaluer physiquement les pièces et pro-

members meets to physically evaluate the pieces and

céder à un nouveau vote. Les montres nommées sont

cast another vote. The nominated watches are also

ensuite de nouveau soumises à l’ensemble de l’Aca-

resubmitted to the entire Academy (excluding the

démie (à l’exclusion des 30 membres du jury). Les

jury members). The jury’s votes count double com-

votes du jury comptent double par rapport au vote de

pared to the Academy’s vote: 30 for the former, 15 for

l’Académie : 30 pour le premier, 15 pour la seconde,

the latter, making a total of 45 votes. The total count

soit 45 votes au total. Le décompte final détermine la

determines the list of awards.

liste des prix.

To date, the Academy has nearly 700 members,

L’Académie compte près de 700 membres nom-

nominated by requests coupled with sponsorship.

més sur demande couplée à un parrainage. Ils sont

They are watchmakers, experts, distributors, brand

horlogers, experts, distributeurs, représentants de

representatives, collectors, historians, journalists

marques, collectionneurs, historiens, journalistes

and experts, divided into seven colleges, for a three-

ou experts, répartis en sept collèges, pour trois ans.

year period

Les principes directeurs de l’Académie sont les

The guiding principles of the Academy are the same

mêmes que ceux du Grand Prix : indépendance,

as those of the Grand Prix: independence, neutrality

neutralité et universalité. Fruit de 20 ans d’une

and universality. The Academy stems from 20 years of

riche maturation, l’Académie représente proba-

a rich maturing process and probably embodies the

blement l’étape ultime de ce souffle fondateur,

ultimate stage of this founding spirit, now enhanced

auquel il faut désormais ajouter transparence et

by both transparency and representativeness.

représentativité.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

World Cup

Special

OFFICIAL TIME KEEPERS

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection Special feature BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

Hublot loves Football AND SO DO WE!

The world will be brought together during the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 in a festival of football like never before. Once again, Hublot is so proud and so excited to be the tournament’s Official Timekeeper and to be timing every match, right through to the final on December 18th 2022. This

 World Cup will be held from late-November to

will be the fourth time we’ve performed the role,

mid-December, making it the first tournament not

a great honour that will put Hublot on television

to be held in May, June, or July; it will be played in a

screens in living rooms all over the world. Foot-

reduced timeframe of around 28 days. The first match

ball, or soccer as it’s known in the US, is such a

played at the tournament is between Senegal and the

beautiful, intricate game that brings pleasure –

Netherlands at Al Thumama Stadium, Doha. The final

and sometimes pain! – to billions of people around

is due to be held on 18 December 2022, which is also Qatar National Day.

the globe. The discipline of mechanical watchmaking is a perfect fit. The best teams run like clockwork! Hublot loves football!” Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO

It is time for the World Cup!

ublot

loves

football!

watch

company

The

times

luxury

every

Swiss

second

the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022, unveiling

it’s

indivi-

official countdown clock. This

masterpiece,

forms

part

duals

striking

sculpture standing 5.75 meters high on the Qatar capital Doha’s Corniche Fishing

Spot, a beautiful pier over-

looking the shimmering waters of the Persian Gulf.

Ambassadors, including Pelé, José Mourinho,

Didier

Deschamps

and

superstar French striker Kylian Mbappé. The 22nd running of the quadrennial internatio-

became the first luxury company to enter football

nal men’s football championship contested by the senior

in 2006. It first timed the FIFA World Cup™ in South Africa

national teams of the member associations of FIFA is taking

in 2010, a role it reprised four years later in Brazil, and then

place in Qatar from 20th November to 18th December 2022.

Hublot

again in Russia in 2018. The company is now the first name in

football timekeeping, with partnerships and timekeeping res-

This will be the first World Cup ever to be held in the Middle east

ponsibilities for the UEFA European ChampionsWhips (the

and the second World Cup held entirely in Asia after the 2002 tour-

Euros), the UEFA Champions League and the Premier League.

nament in South Korea and Japan. In addition, the tournament

The Official Watch of some of the world’s most prestigious foot-

will be the last to involve 32 teams, with an increase to 48 teams

ball clubs, including Juventus, Chelsea, AFC Ajax and Benfica,

scheduled for the 2026 tournament in the United States, Mexi-

Hublot proudly counts a number of the game’s most celebrated

co, and Canada. Due to Qatar’s intense summer heat, this 

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

2018 Champions will seek to defend their title with Karim Benzema leading the charge

The tournament kicks off on Sunday, Nov. 20 and will be wrapped up in less than a month with the final tabbed for Sunday, Dec. 18. Find the match calendars >> Which of the teams could turn the table?

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

edule

QAT v. ECU

MAR v. CRO

ENG v. USA

ESP v. GER

NED v. QAT

CRC v. GER

1B v. 2A

W51 v. W52

W59 v. W60

19:00

13:00

22:00

18:00

22:00

NED v. ECU

CRO v. CAN

ECU v. SEN

JPN v. ESP

1A v. 2B

3rd Place

16:00

19:00

18:00

22:00

18:00

Al Thumama Stadium

SEN v. NED

ESP v. CRC

QAT v. SEN

BEL v. MAR

IRN v. USA

CAN v. MAR

1D v. 2C

W55 v. W56

19:00

16:00

22:00

18:00

Ahmad Bin Ali Stadium

USA v. WAL

BEL v. CAN

WAL v. IRN

JPN v. CRC

WAL v. ENG

CRO v. BEL

1C v. 2D

22:00

13:00

22:00

18:00

22:00

ARG v. KSA

BRA v. SRB

ARG v. MEX

POR v. URU

KSA v. MEX

CMR v. BRA

1H v. 2G

13:00

22:00

Stadium 974

MEX v. POL

POR v. GHA

FRA v. DEN

BRA v. SUI

POL v. ARG

SRB v. SUI

1G v. 2H

19:00

22:00

W49 v. W50 22:00

DEN v. TUN

URU v. KOR

POL v. KSA

KOR v. GHA

TUN v. FRA

KOR v. POR

1F v. 2E

W53 v. W54

16:00

18:00

Al Janoub Stadium

FRA v. AUS

SUI v. CMR

TUN v. AUS

CMR v. SRB

AUS v. DEN

GHA v. URU

1E v. 2F

22:00

13:00

18:00

Qatar (QAT) Ecuador (ECU) Senegal (SEN) Netherlands (NED)

England (ENG) IR Iran (IRN) USA (USA) Wales (WAL)

Argentina (ARG) Saudi Arabia (KSA) Mexico (MEX) Poland (POL)

France (FRA) Australia (AUS) Denmark (DEN) Tunisia (TUN)

Spain (ESP) Costa Rica (CRC) Germany (GER) Japan (JPN)

Belgium (BEL) Canada (CAN) Morocco (MAR) Croatia (CRO)

Brazil (BRA) Serbia (SRB) Switzerland (SUI) Cameroon (CMR)

22:00

Final 18:00

All times are local times

Education City Stadium

W57 v. W58

Subject to change

Lusail Stadium

Rest days

GER v. JPN

Rest days

ENG v. IRN

Rest days

Khalifa International Stadium

Sunday 18 December

Friday 16 December

3rd Place & Final

Wednesday 14 December

Tuesday 13 December

Monday 12 December

SemiFinals Sunday 11 December

Saturday 10 December

Friday 9 December

Thursday 8 December

Wednesday 7 December

Tuesday 6 December

QuarterFinals Monday 5 December

Sunday 4 December

Saturday 3 December

Friday 2 December

Thursday 1 December

Wednesday 30 November

Tuesday 29 November

Monday 28 November

Sunday 27 November

Saturday 26 November

Friday 25 November

Thursday 24 November

Wednesday 23 November

Tuesday 22 November

Round of 16

W = Winner

Al Bayt Stadium

Monday 21 November

Sunday 20 November

Group Matches

Saturday 17 December

Match Sch

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Thursday 15 December

Sélection

Portugal (POR) Ghana (GHA) Uruguay (URU) Korea Republic (KOR)

17.10.2022 © FIFA

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GROUP A

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

How it’s going down BRICE LECHEVALIER

WORLD CUP SPECIAL

England

GROUP B

Having reached the semifinals of the 2018 World Cup and then the final of Euro 2021 — only to lose painfully on penalties to Italy — England will be determined to go on better and finally win their first major trophy since 1966.

Qatar

Neatherlands

As the 2022 world cup host, Qatar is determined to

This is their first appearance at the finals in eight years

put on a show for football fans around the globe on

after finishing third-place back in 2014 despite not qua-

and off the field. The Gulf nation with a population

lifying to Russia.

United States of America

under three million has invested significantly in its national team program over the last decade since it

The U.S. will be joining the party barely making it

won the right to host the tournament back in Dec.

through the regional qualifiers on goal difference

2010.

past Costa Rica. This will be the 11th time that the U.S. men’s national team (USMNT) has featured on the global stage, with the best result coming via a semifinal run at the inaugural tournament in 1930.

Iran Iran will appear at a third straight World Cup finals as the No. 1-ranked national team from the Asian region capable of making a mark at the tournament. Dragan Skocic’s side qualified for the 2022 showpiece in emphatic style, going 8W-1L-1D in their

Ecuador

final qualification round fixtures. That was enough

Ecuador went out in the quar-

terfi-

nals of the last major tourna-

ment,

the Copa America, as they

were

beaten 3-0 by eventual winners Argentina, the team will have to be much more resilient if they are to avoid an early exit from the World Cup.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Senegal

Wales

for Iran to finish top of their group, as they edged out South Korea, who also qualified as runners-up.

Events away from the pitch meant that the outcome of the final European playoff spot was left for June. Wales defeated Ukraine on June 5 to secure

Crowned Kings of Africa, Senegal did things the hard

the final World Cup playoff berth in Europe and its

way to book their place at Qatar 2022 via a penalty

first appearance since 1958.

shootout. But will they continue a recent excellent vein of form that has given them this title?.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

WORLD CUP SPECIAL

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

GROUP D

GROUP C

Mexico

France

Mexico extended their streak of appearing at every World Cup finals since 1994 by securing CONCACAF qualification as runnersup to Canada on goal difference in the final round.

The winners of the last World Cup in 2018, France will be determined to retain the crown, although they will have to fare considerably better than they did at Euro 2020, when they were knocked out at the Round of 16 stage by Switzerland.

Denmark Denmark could be the focus of one of the most poignant and

Poland

Argentina

Poland’s Robert Lewandowski won the battle of the talismans

One of the World Cup’s traditional powerhouses, the

against Sweden’s Zlatan Ibrahimovic to book the Eastern Europeans

2022 tournament in Qatar could see a return to the

a spot in the finals via the playoff route, following a 2-0 win. Poland

old order of Argentina as a major force to be reckoned

had previously been given a bye straight through to the final match

with, but it may also mark the last hurrah for one of

Tunisia made it to back-to-back World Cups thanks to a final

after first-round opponents Russia were banned by FIFA as a result of

the game’s greatest ever players.

qualifying round win against Mali, booking what will be a sixth

emotionally resonant stories at this World Cup as they aim to build upon an impressive showing at Euro 2020.

Tunisia

their country’s invasion of Ukraine.

appearance at the finals of the tournament. The North Africans will look to progress to the knockout stages for the first time.

Australia The Socceroos won a single-elimination FIFA intercontinental playoff to earn the final place in Group D, beating Peru in a penal-

Saudi Arabia

ty-kick shootout on June 13. Six days prior, Australia had to over-

In their last four involvements at the World Cup, Saudi Ara-

Cup.

come the United Arab Emirates 2-1 in a separate Asian qualifying playoff just to earn the right to meet Peru for a spot in the World

bia’s exit has come in the group stages — and it is difficult to envisage that being improved this time in Qatar.

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WORLD CUP SPECIAL

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection Spain

GROUP E

BRICE LECHEVALIER

GROUP F

Belgium Belgium can no longer claim to be the No.1 ranked team in the

Spain remain in something of a transitional phase heading into Qatar 2022, as they look to finally emulate the success last enjoyed on the global stage at the 2010 World Cup.

Germany

world, having been recently replaced at the top of the FIFA standings by Brazil, but they can still call upon some key members of their golden generation and will be expected to go far in Qatar.

Germany will be keen to make amends for a nightmare showing when trying to defend the title at the 2018 World Cup as they enter a major tournament without Joachim Low for the first time in almost two decades.

Morocco Morocco are regarded as one of the strongest teams

Japan

Croatia

on the African continent and will boast plenty of

Croatia surprised many by reaching the final of the 2018 World

star power at Qatar 2022, competing at the finals

Cup, where they lost to France, but they didn’t fare quite so

for the sixth time.

well at Euro 2020, as they were eliminated at the Round of 16 stage.

Japan’s national team has never gone beyond the Round of 16 stage at the World Cup but will be hopeful of enjoying a lengthy run at this year’s tournament.

Canada Canada will be participating in the World Cup for the first time in 36 years following an impressive qualification campaign that led all the way to the winners’ spot in the CONCACAF standings.

Costa Rica Costa Rica’s fate was decided by the intercontinental playoff after finishing fourth in CONCACAF qualifying.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

GROUP G

Brazil Sélection

GROUP H

Portugal

BRICE LECHEVALIER It just would not feel like a World Cup without Brazil and the Sele-

Portugal, as expected, managed to qualify for Qa-

cao will aim to end two decades of European dominance on the

tar 2022 through the playoff path, defeating North

biggest stage since their fifth success back in 2002.

Macedonia to ensure an appearance at the finals for the eighth time.

Serbia

Uruguay

Serbia failed to make it to Euro 2020 but secured a place at the 2022

Although Uruguay’s squad is a talented one, 2021 was an inconsistent

World Cup in Qatar by finishing top, and unbeaten, in a tough

year for La Celeste, who were eliminated at the quarterfinals of the

qualifying group which also included Portugal.

Copa America having hoped for much more.

Switzerland

Ghana

Switzerland finished World Cup qualification with a flourish,

Ghana will be present in Qatar following a valiant effort in

beating Bulgaria 4-0 at home back in November to underline

the qualifying rounds, cementing a place in the tournament

their place at the top of Group C as they booked an automatic

for the first time since 2014 by beating Nigeria on away goals

spot in Qatar.

in the African playoffs.

Cameroon World Cup veterans Cameroon booked a return to the finals for the first time since 2014 with a dramatic aggregate winner-takeall victory over Algeria in late March.

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Korea Republic Not since 1982 have South Korea failed to appear at a World Cup and that streak will continue with Paulo Bento’s team competing in Qatar.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

WORLD CUP SPECIAL

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

the Stadiums

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Stadium 974

Ahmad Bin Ali

AT THE HEART OF INNOVATION

THE GATEWAY TO THE DESERT

Think Innovative Design, Stadium 974 is undoubtedly

Due to its location on the edge of the desert, preserving

one of the most innovative FIFA World Cup stadium de-

nature has long been a priority in Al Rayyan where Ah-

signs ever.

mad Bin Ali Stadium is located which is known for its

Previously known as Ras Abu Aboud, Stadium 974 is

love of traditions and local culture, as well as its hugely

constructed using 974 shipping containers, removable

popular football team Al Rayyan Sports Club.

seats and other modular ‘building blocks’ reflecting Qa-

Built on the site of the Al Rayyan Sports Club former

tar’s maritime history.

ground, the Ahmad Bin Ali Stadium incorporates sym-

Al bayt

bols of Qatari culture into its spectacular undulating façade, while the surrounding facilities and sand

UNIQUELY QATARI

dune-shaped structures also reflect the surrounding

Al Bayt Stadium, also known as Al Khor Stadium, is one of

land.

the recently opened new stadiums that was built to serve as a playing venue for the in Qatar. Fans arriving will have never seen anything like it. The design of the stadium reflects the inside of a Bedouin tent: coloured red, white, and black. These tents, the bayt al sha’ar, are also where the stadium gets its name from.

Lusail THE LARGER, THE LEGACY Lusail Stadium is set to be a historic venue, the largest stadium by capacity at the first FIFA World Cup hosted in the Gulf has 80,000 capacity. Construction of the stadium started in 2017 and took 4 years.

Al Thumama

Its design is inspired by the interplay of light and shadow

A COMING OF AGE…

that characterizes the fanar lantern which alludes to the de-

Al Thumama stadium, inspired by the traditio-

corative motifs on bowls, vessels and other art pieces found

nal gahfiya, a woven cap for young men which

across the Arab world.

forms an important part of the traditional dress of the area, is a magnificent ode to the culture, history and symbolism of the area.

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Khalifa Int’l FLAGSHIP STADIUM EXPERIENCE Khalifa International Stadium has been Qa-

Stars & their

WristGame

tar’s most historic football venue.

Football players are the highest paid athletes in the world, beating out

The stadium was built to serve as the flagship

MLB, NBA, and NFL players. With large amounts of disposable income,

venue for the 1976 Gulf Cup that was held in

these players have the ability to purchase luxury items. Many of the

Qatar and could initially hold 20,000 specta-

world’s best football players are either luxury watch ambassadors or have

tors.

a propensity to wear a certain watch or specific brand.

A new chapter in the stadium’s storied past was written in 2017 when it was renovated.

These football players have not only been bringing on their leg games but also their wrist games.

Christiano Ronaldo

Lionel Messi

Erling Haaland

Education City Al Janoub

A STADIUM FULL OF PASSION A vibrant center of knowledge, Doha’s Education City

Kylian Mbappe

Stadium can be found amid several leading universities. The area is home to the Qatar Foundation for Education,

PRIDE OF THE ADVENTUROUS CITY

Science and Community Development, with academia

Al Janoub Stadium has been designed as a nod to

and innovation at the heart of the community’s ethos.

Karim Benzema

the dhow, the pearl fishing boats which are one of

Harry Kane

the most iconic symbols of the Qatari region. As one of Qatar’s oldest continuously inhabited areas, Al Wakrah has long been known as a center for pearl diving and fishing and the use of flowing designs, timber and natural materials in the stadium construction is an homage to this heritage.

Ricardo Kaka

Son Heung-min

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TOUR DESERT SAFARI

Explore QATAR

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Step out. The city is yours. Quick and leaving you breathless! For the global explorer, Qatar’s rich heritage and timeless culture

sand dunes. Crossing the desert is a real adventure in itself and an event to

comprise an infinite succession of surprises. From modern museums

A trip to Qatar would be a waste without an incredibly adven-

remember. You can decide on the kind of ride you want – fast

to grandiose architecture, the country’s most famous landmarks go

turous journey into the endless heart of the desert. The tour

and bumpy or a smooth and casual one. The drive will also

beyond mere tourism and leave you with a sense of belonging.

of the Qatar Desert Safari is great for you.

take you to the spectacular inland sea of Khor al-Udaid (near

Experience the rapture of an exhilarating roller coaster ride

the Qatar-Saudi Arabian border) with its white sandy beaches

in luxury 4×4 vehicles that drive you across the tranquil sand

and pristine, crystal clear water. A swim in the warm inland

dunes leaving you captivated. En route there is a stop for a

sea will nicely top off your adventure; just be sure to bring

breathtaking view of the Inland Sea, which is the natural

along your swimsuits. Stops during the journey for picture

border to Saudi Arabia giving you an opportunity to enjoy the

taking sessions will help you keep the memories of your de-

serenity of the timeless desert for those with limited time.

sert adventure alive.

However, if you have all day, an adventure awaits you on a

There is a stop at the unique, purpose-built Arabian Adven-

ride heading 75 km south of Doha taking the sights of the

tures Qatar Bedouin Camp near Khor Al-Udaid where you can

city, its suburbs and countryside along the way. Following

also indulge in sand boarding and other sports activities as

Enjoy a Helicopter Ride over the City & enjoy the spectacular

a brief stop at Sealine Beach in Meisaeed where drivers will

well as enjoy a full barbecue meal with non-alcoholic beve-

view of the West bay skyline, The Pearl-Qatar, the Cost line &

first deflate the tires to make sure the vehicle is ready for the

rages. End the day with a shisha (water pipe with flavored

the buzzing city center.

dune bashing, the boring tarmac is abandoned for the exhila-

tobacco) in hand.

A tour in one of the GHC helicopters, the Bell206L3 takes 4

rating, breath-taking, roller-coaster drives across the desert

HELICOPTER RIDE OVER DOHA

passengers. This helicopter is one of the most successful helicopter designs in the world. They are used for civilian purposes and are safe and luxurious.

CAMEL RACE TRACK AND EQUESTRAIN

You are first welcomed for Meet and Assist at Doha Heliport & proceed to Samana Lounge, Pre-flight document check & safety briefing. You then take a 35 Min aerial tour of Sidra

A trip to Qatari’s Past

Medical & Research Centre, West Bay Lagoon, The Pearl-Qa-

Showcasing 15 000 historical pieces, the Sheikh Faisal Mu-

tar, Zig Zag Tower & Katara Valley of Culture.

seum gathers a unique private collection owned by one of the royal members Sheikh Faisal. A display of traditional Qatari artifacts from all over the world as well as paintings & inter-

SELF CARE IN THE HEART OF DOHA

national art items. After your time travel to the past, another exciting activity

Built on a real oasis, Al Messila Spa is

riences, this luxury resort is the perfect starting

awaits as you watch the camel training at the camel race

born from nature and cultivated with

point of your visit to Doha. Located 15 minutes

track. Hundreds of camels can be seen there. If you get lucky

love. Discover the most extensive spa

from West Bay, the city center of the capital, Al

you will witness races during the visit. A robot jockey is com-

facilities in the region and indulge in

Messila Resort & Spa is also only 10km from the

monly used on camels in camel racing as a replacement for

a series of activities and experiences at

Museum of Islamic Art and the National Mu-

human jockeys. Developed since 2004, the robotic jockeys are

the extensive Ladies Wellness Retreat

seum of Qatar.

slowly phasing out the use of human jockeys.

and the state.

Continue with the Equestrian Club visit which is the royal stable of Qatar, where you will see the priceless royal and

Rooted in the indigenous Qatari expe-

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MARKET BY JEAN GEORGES

Wine & Dine in Qatar BRICE LECHEVALIER

Another of W Doha Hotel finest, this restaurant features dishes inspired by Greatest Hits of classic Jean Georges Vongricheten cuisine emphasizing comfort and creativity whilst indulging you to try new flavor combinations and explore spices from other regions, all remaining close to home.

SAFFRON

AL SUFRA

HAKKASAN - THE ST. REGIS

LIANG

This restaurant takes Thai cuisine to the next level. Located

This Levant-inspired restaurant has a timeless charm. With

Known for its elevated, modern take on Chinese cuisine,

Craving Chinese food? Liang is the place to go at the Manda-

in the luxurious Banyan Tree hotel; Saffron offers an array

a blend of traditional recipes and flavors from Lebanon, Cy-

Hakkasan is an acclaimed name among gastronomy taste-

rin Oriental Hotel. This restaurant offers you a multi-sensory

of elevated Thai favorites with an artistic flair. The stunning

prus, Syria, Jordan and Palestine, Al Sufra follows the festi-

makers located at the Al Gassar Resort, St. Regis. This Doha

experience from the flavourful food, to the colorful décor

views of the twinkling city skyline and grand interior with

vals and seasons of the Levant, celebrating them with pride

outpost indeed lives up to the brand with special dishes crea-

and the lively entertainment. You might even be treated to

high ceilings is completed with majestic gold detailing on

and insight into the traditions of this ancient cuisine. With

ted exclusively for the location. The large space is subdivided

a traditional tea performance and a La Mian show (a noodle

the walls; ensuring you a fine dining experience.

a coffee lounge, open terrace and a la carte dining, the restau-

by exposed dark wood panels and latticed screens, which give

stretching dance).

rant can be visited any time throughout the day

the interior a subtle, yet noticeable influence from the Far East.

MORIMOTO

NOZOMI

Sophisticated, elegant and refined, Morimoto in West Bay

Refined and elegant describes this modern Japanese spot,

Lagoon is a masterpiece in both Japanese cuisine and décor.

where a musical offering creates a delightful ambiance. This

in the luxurious Banyan Tree hotel; Saffron offers an array

Sit at the sushi bar and watch the magic happen, or opt for

is the restaurant’s second outpost after its initial success in

magical. The period-inspired interiors and décor will make

of elevated Thai favorites with an artistic flair. The stunning

a table in the central dining area, which is flanked by towe-

London. Enjoy a meal of fine Japanese food, while sitting in

you feel like you’re in a long-forgotten Damascene township

views of the twinkling city skyline and grand interior with

ring rose-gold columns. If you are not partial to sushi, you

the gardens of the Marsa Malaz Kempinski and looking out

that’s seeped in the rich culture and heritage that makes this

high ceilings is completed with majestic gold detailing on

can indulge in an array of other offerings from lobster risotto

onto the majestic Arabian Gulf at Marsa Malaz Kempinski

part of the Arab world well-known for its warm welcome and

the walls; ensuring you a fine dining experience.

to miso black cod.

Hotel, The Pearl.

YASMIN PALACE

SPICE MARKET

When you enter Yasmine Palace, you are instantly transpor-

This restaurant takes Thai cuisine to the next level. Located

ted into another world – a world that is exotic, mystical and

hospitality.

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NOBU Nobu Doha at the Four Seasons Hotel, The Corniche takes you on a whimsical adventure from the moment you come up the floating driveway, cross the bridge over a reflecting pool moat and into the three-story establishment – an architectural masterpiece. From their famed black cod yuzu miso to their wagyu beef tacos, you will find that the food is as divine as the view you will have of the Arabian Gulf.

LA MAR

LA BODEGA NEGRA

Hailing from Lima, La Mar offers a menu of rich Peruvian fla-

Think luxurious Mexican villa, but owned by a patron of the

vors that have been reinvented and infused with a Japanese

arts, that’s what you have when you walk into La Bodega

twist. Located right on the Beachfront, InterContinental

Negra at St. Regis, Al Gassar Resort. The ambiance brings

with stunning views of the city, this is your ideal spot for a

some Latino flair with live music and even dancing. Enjoy

special occasion. From the signature tiradito (Japanese-inspi-

the joyful atmosphere while sampling the traditional Mexi-

red ceviche) to a wide selection of charcoal-grilled meats, you

can menu.

are guaranteed to be introduced to some new tastes.

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L’horlogerie est-elle

disruptive ? A

période disruptive, dossier disruptif ! Depuis le tournant du troisième millénaire, l’horlogerie a communiqué à coup d’innovation et de tradition. Difficile d’échapper à ces termes dans tout bon communiqué de presse qui se respecte, employés indépendamment l’une de l’autre mais idéalement de manière combinée. Depuis le milieu de la dernière décennie, ils ont cédé du terrain aux icônes, et plus récemment encore, l’approche disruptive a

conquis de nouveaux territoires, le plus souvent en main des marques indépendantes. Maître incontesté de la disruption, Jean-Claude Biver a imposé un style et des idées en semant de la fusion et de l’unicité dans tout ce qu’il entreprenait, et continue d’entreprendre, maintenant avec son fils Pierre au sein de JC Biver Manufacture. En attendant de découvrir l’an prochain à quelle sauce il va manger les collectionneurs, intéressons-nous à la signification de disruptif : pour le Larousse, « se dit d’une entreprise, d’un produit, d’un concept, etc., qui créent une véritable rupture au sein d’un secteur d’activité en renouvelant radicalement son fonctionnement ». Marque, montre, leader, phénomène de société, nous avons exploré plusieurs facettes de l’horlogerie dans sa disruption toute relative.

Is watchmaking

disruptive?

disruptive period deserved a disruptive dossier! From the turn of the third millennium, the watch industry began liberally sprinkling its communication with the terms ‘innovation’ and ‘tradition’. It became difficult to escape these terms in any self-respecting press release, whether used independently or ideally in combination. Since the middle of the last decade, these particular buzzwords have given way to ‘icons’; and even more recently,

the ‘disruptive approach’ has conquered new territories, generally in the hands of independent brands. Jean-Claude Biver, the undisputed master of disruption, has asserted his style and ideas by embedding fusion and uniqueness into everything he does – and indeed continues to do now with his son Pierre at JC Biver Manufacture. While we wait to see what he will be serving up for collectors next year, we take a look at the meaning of ‘disruptive’: the Oxford dictionary defines this adjective as referring to something “new and original, in a way that causes major changes to how something is done”; while the Collins dictionary explains it thus: “Disruptive technology involves completely new methods that change the way something such as a market or a type of device works.” Whether relating to brands, watches, leaders or social phenomena, we have explored several facets of watchmaking in terms of its relatively disruptive nature.

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HUBLOT a bousculé les codes

en adoptant une stratégie de guérilla marketing et communication, fortement axée sur les collabs, ici avec Takashi Murakami. HUBLOT has shaken up codes by adopting a guerrilla marketing and communication strategy strongly focused on collabs, as in this case with Takashi Murakami.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

ELECTROCHOC Le plus profond facteur disruptif dans l’horloge-

SHOCK WAVE

rie est l’irruption brutale, massive, de nouveaux

The most profound disruptive factor in today’s watch

acteurs puissants, avec un produit hyper fonc-

industry has been the sudden, massive irruption of

tionnel : la smartwatch. Se retrouver du jour au

powerful new players with a hyper-functional prod-

lendemain avec Apple, Google et Samsung comme

uct: the smartwatch. To find oneself overnight with

concurrents a choqué l’industrie. Un pico-ordina-

Apple, Google and Samsung as competitors shocked

teur de poignet, connecté, multifonctionnel et axé

the industry. A connected, multi-functional, tiny

sur la satisfaction de besoins du quotidien a repré-

wristworn computer focused on meeting everyday

senté un bouleversement profond. Avec le recul, ces

needs represented a profound disruption. In ret-

produits ont d’abord attaqué les montres les plus

rospect, these products initially attacked the most

vulnérables, celles qui sont le moins bien protégées

vulnerable watches, those least protected by their

par leur statut d’objet de luxe. L’entrée de gamme

luxury status. The entry level of Swiss and Japa-

de l’horlogerie suisse et japonaise continue de souf-

nese watchmaking continues to suffer. As for the

frir. Quant à la réponse, portée par TAG Heuer,

response, driven by TAG Heuer, Louis Vuitton and

Louis Vuitton et Hublot et par la T-Touch Connect de

Hublot and Tissot’s T-Touch Connect, it represents

Tissot, elle représente des volumes cumulés minus-

extremely small cumulative volumes. Faced with dis-

cules. Face à la disruption, la réponse a donc été la

ruption, the Swiss industry’s response has thus been

montée en gamme généralisée de l’industrie suisse.

a general move upmarket.

« Instagram s’est révélé être “Instagram proved to be a un outil révolutionnaire. » revolutionary instrument.”

Disruption, DAVID CHOKRON

la conquête par la rupture

Disruption: conquest by severance Rompre. Réinventer. Bousculer. Etre suivi. Voilà la disruption en quatre séquences. Il y a ceux qui la créent, ceux qui l’adoptent et ceux qui la subissent. Le tout est une question de timing.

Breaking. Reinventing. Shaking things up. Being followed. Such are the four stages of disruption. There are those who create it, those who adopt it and those who endure it. Everything is a matter of timing.

a disruption est une forme particulière d’innova-

isruption is a distinctive form of innovation

tion, qui consiste à bouleverser un ordre établi. Il ne s’agit pas que d’inventer, modifier ou parfaire. La disruption est une stratégie de conquête par la cassure. Elle est ensuite imitée et, dans une cer-

taine mesure, devient une nouvelle norme. L’horlogerie n’en est pas coutumière. Elle préfère l’amélioration incrémentale et le

en puissance des médias sociaux. Instagram s’est

media. Instagram proved to be a revolutionary

révélé être un outil révolutionnaire. Il a encore fallu

instrument, although it still took years before its

des années avant que l’industrie horlogère en com-

benefits were grasped by the watch industry. The

prenne les atouts. Elle a eu du mal à dépasser ses

latter has struggled to overcome its own limitations

propres limites pour enfin accéder à une diffusion

to finally access targeted mass distribution capable

de masse, ciblée, capable de transformer une vue

of turning a view into a sale. And even then, only a

en vente. Et encore seules quelques marques ont

few brands have accomplished this last step. One has

accompli cette dernière étape. Il faut être léger et/

to be nimble and/or opportunistic and/or sense an

ou opportuniste et/ou se sentir en danger pour bas-

existential threat in order to make the move. But for

culer. Mais pour ceux qui l’ont fait massivement,

those who have done so on a major scale, sales modes

les modes de vente ont été bouleversés : ils épuisent

have been turned upside down and limited series are

leurs séries limitées en quelques jours, voire

snapped up a few days, or even hours. 

quelques heures. 

order. It is not merely about inventing, modifying or perfecting. Disruption is a strategy of winning by severance. It is then imitated and,

to a certain extent, becomes a new standard. Watchmaking is not accustomed to this. It prefers incremental improvement and prog-

ress, yet it is all the more exposed to disruption in that it regards it

considère comme une altérité complète. Elle se voit alors obligée

as an entirely different state. This means it is obliged to change its

de changer ses modes de fonctionnement dans l’urgence. En tant

modes of operation in a hurry. As a technical object resulting from

qu’objet technique, produit d’une forme particulière d’ingénie-

a particular form of engineering, its technological foundations are

rie, ses fondements technologiques sont difficiles à remettre en

difficult to challenge. On the other hand, the methods of produc-

question. Par contre, les méthodes de fabrication, de communi-

tion, communication and marketing have been directly impacted.

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FLASH SALES The second disruptive factor was the rise of social

that consists in overturning an established

progrès. Mais elle s’expose d’autant plus à la disruption qu’elle la

cation et de commercialisation ont été directement impactées.

VENTE ÉCLAIR Le second facteur de disruption a été la montée

JACOB & CO. a complètement adopté la philosophie Instagram. Résultat, ses reels dépassent régulièrement le cap envié du million de vues. JACOB & CO. has completely adopted the Instagram philosophy. As a result, its reels regularly exceed the enviable million-view mark.

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BRICE LECHEVALIER

Alain Delamuraz

MULTI-FOCUS

L’activation de ces ventes repose sur une coordination com/produit

Activating these sales depends on unprecedented coordination

inédite. Il a fallu abandonner les séquences traditionnelles (présen-

between communication and products. It has meant giving up

tation produit en petit comité, communiqué de presse envoyé par

traditional sequences (small-group product presentations, press

e-mail, relais dans la presse) et passer en mode guérilla, apprendre

releases sent by email and picked up in the media) and shifting

Votre nouveau slogan évoque la Disruptive Legacy 8.0,

Your new slogan directly evokes the Disruptive Legacy 8.0:

à travailler avec de micro-célébrités, dans de multiples univers pour

to guerrilla mode, including learning to work with micro-celeb-

en quoi cela consiste ?

what exactly does that mean?

élargir l’impact des messages. La disruption marketing consiste à

rities in multiple universes to broaden messages’ impact. Disrup-

Dès 1738 Pierre Jaquet-Droz était tellement précurseur et novateur

From 1738 Pierre Jaquet-Droz was such a trailblazer and an innova-

passer d’un positionnement unique à une multiplication d’affini-

tive marketing consists in moving from a single positioning to a

avec ses automates qu’il était déjà disruptif pour ses contempo-

tor with his automatons that he was already disruptive as far as

tés émotionnelles. Le pionnier de cette stratégie est le Hublot des

multiplication of emotional affinities. The pioneer of this strat-

rains. Il a failli être jeté en prison car sa capacité à créer des objets

his contemporaries were concerned. He was indeed almost thrown

années 2010 : une annonce par jour, des douzaines de séries limi-

egy was Hublot in the 2010s: one ad per day, dozens of limited

qui chantaient, écrivaient ou jouaient de la musique lui valut

into prison because his ability to create objects that sang, wrote

tées par an, des micro-partenariats à forte résonance. On est à

series per year, as well as micro-partnerships achieving strong

d’être soupçonné de pactiser avec le diable ! Je me suis demandé ce

or played music led to him being suspected of having made a pact

des années-lumière de la com’ institutionnelle, bien plus près du

resonance. This is light years away from corporate communica-

qu’il aurait fait à notre époque. Pierre Jaquet-Droz était clairement

with the devil! I found myself wondering what he would have done

drop permanent à la mode sneakers et son corollaire, la collab’. Les

tion and far closer to the constant product-drop approach such

un pionnier. Pour respecter son héritage, il fallait bousculer les

in our time. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was clearly a pioneer. To respect

doubles signatures tirent profit du croisement des identités, des

as adopted in the sneaker industry, as well as its corollary in the

conventions, prendre des risques et montrer la voie. Pour rester

his legacy, we had to shake up conventions, take risks and lead

audiences, des impacts. La rupture est ici dans l’abandon du dogme

form of ‘collabs’. Double signatures take advantage of the inter-

une grande marque, il faut être suivi et pas suiveur, et donc casser

the way. To remain a great brand, you have to be followed rather

de la marque toute puissante et seule à régner sur le mix marketing.

section of identities, audiences and impacts. In this case, disrup-

les codes. Notre héritage, ce sont les montres d’art à six chiffres

than a follower, and therefore break existing codes. Our heritage

tion involves ditching the dogma of the all-powerful brand reign-

et automates, nous avons donc supprimé tout ce qui n’entrait pas

consists in six-figure art watches and automatons, so we have

ing supreme over the marketing mix.

dans cette catégorie. Quelques marques affichent un prix moyen

eliminated everything not falling within this category. Whereas

à CHF 100’000.–, nos montres commencent à CHF 150’000.– et

some brands have an average price of CHF100,000, our watches

n’iront jamais en-dessous de CHF 100’000.– Elles s’adressent donc

start at CHF150,000 and will never dip below CHF100,000. They are

à une clientèle qui ne va plus en boutique, ce qui implique de fer-

thus intended for a clientele that no longer visits boutiques, which

mer tous nos points de vente. Nous concentrons notre relationnel

implies closing all our points of sale. We are focusing our relation-

avec le client final, à travers des ambassadeurs et des personnes,

ship efforts on the end customer through ambassadors and people

et non pas des lieux, un cercle dans lequel le client final se sent

rather than places, forming a circle in which the end customer

à l’aise. Notre seul point de vente devient notre manufacture,

feels comfortable. Our only point of sale is thus our Manufacture,

où les ateliers évoluent dans une personnalisation quasi-perma-

where the workshops an engaged in almost constant customiza-

nente des pièces. Le 8.0 est un clin d’œil à l’industrie 4.0 aux flux

tion of our timepieces. The 8.0 is a nod to just-in-time industry

tendus, mais nos métiers d’arts et automates vont bien au-delà,

4.0, yet our crafts and automatons go far beyond that – hence this

d’où le 8.0 qui fait aussi référence à nos doubles cadrans reprodui-

number which also refers to our double dials reproducing the fig-

sant le 8 de notre héritage. La remise en question s’étend natu-

ure 8 stemming from our heritage. The rethink naturally extends

rellement aux produits, mais aussi dans l’accompagnement de

to products, as well as to accompanying our clients well beyond

notre client et ce bien au-delà de la vente de la montre qui n’est

the actual sale of the watch which is merely a half-way stage in

qu’une étape située à mi-chemin de la relation.

the relationship.

CEO Jaquet Droz

Lire l’interview dans son intégralité sur la nouvelle stratégie de Jaquet Droz sur WorldTempus

Read the full interview presenting the new Jaquet Droz strategy on WorldTempus

La smartwatch a bouleversé le paradigme de la montre suisse. TAG HEUER y a répondu du tac au tac avec sa collection Connected. The smartwatch turned the Swiss watch paradigm on its head and TAG HEUER responded in kind with its Connected collection.

DANGER

La disruption ne sert que ceux qui veulent innover. Or en matière

Disruptiveness only serves those who want to innovate, whereas

de produit, les quatre dernières années ont été concentrées sur une

in terms of products, the last four years have been concentrated

typologie unique. La domination de la montre sport-chic en acier

on a single typology. The domination of the chic steel sports watch

(et de préférence à bracelet intégré) a servi de martingale à une

(preferably with an integrated bracelet) has served as a game-

industrie qui n’a plus trouvé de place, ou d’intérêt, à l’invention de

winning formula for an industry that has no longer found room

nouveaux formats. Ce terrain est propice à la disruption, qui voit

for – or interest in – the invention of new formats. This is a breed-

s’agrandir ses espaces d’opportunité. Gare donc à ceux qui sont

ing ground for disruptiveness, which is seeing an expansion of its

endormis. Une nouvelle révolution peut surgir à tout instant…

opportunities for expansion. Those liable to be lulled into a false sense of security should thus remain wary, as a new revolution can emerge at any moment…

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In between two Royal Oak 50th anniversary events and two openings of AP Houses, this watch industry powerhouse welcomed us to the Manufacture. In what way is Audemars Piguet disruptive today? We are always curious about everything, open to all fields, and we have the ability to adapt very quickly, even though some ideas take time in coming to fruition. If I take the example of our collaboration with Marvel, our first discussions go back 17 years, and not much came out of it at the time. It wasn’t until 2017, thanks to a new encounter with mutual friends, that the partnership was born because everything was in place to make it a success. Other meetings leading to new partnerships will be in the spotlight next year. It will be up to the public to judge whether they are disruptive or not. Moreover, our AP House concept was a departure from the industry when it was launched. This year,

Entre deux événements du 50e anniversaire de la Royal Oak et deux ouvertures de AP Houses, la forte tête de l’horlogerie nous a reçus à la manufacture.

our RD3 selfwinding tourbillon extra-thin is a continuation of the

En quoi Audemars Piguet est-elle aujourd’hui

Do you play a role in this disruptive aspect of the brand?

une marque disruptive ?

I’m a very curious person and I like to be exposed to all kinds of

Nous sommes toujours curieux de tout, ouverts à tous les domaines,

worlds. But it’s more about benevolent leadership, getting every-

et nous avons les capacités de nous adapter très vite même si cer-

one on board so that youth follow and become better. It’s all run-

taines idées mettent du temps à voir le jour. Si je prends l’exemple

ning pretty well today, but we are constantly challenging our-

de notre collaboration avec Marvel, nos premières discussions

selves. With a turnover of almost CHF two billion this year if all

remontent à 17 ans, et il n’en était pas sorti grand-chose à l’époque.

goes well, and 2,500 employees, Audemars Piguet is now a heavy-

Ce n’est qu’en 2017, grâce à une nouvelle rencontre avec des amis

weight in the watchmaking industry, but it has maintained its

communs, que le partenariat a vu le jour car tout était réuni pour

highly entrepreneurial spirit allowing everyone to make their own

en faire un succès. D’autres rencontres débouchant sur de nou-

contribution. Young people play a role in challenging us, both on

veaux partenariats seront d’ailleurs à l’honneur l’an prochain. Ce

the employee side and the customer side, and if their ideas are rel-

sera au public de juger s’ils sont disruptifs ou pas. Par ailleurs,

evant then we implement them. 

first two, but when RD4 is launched next year, disruption will be very much the name of the game.

notre concept de AP House rompait avec les habitudes de l’industrie lorsqu’il a été lancé. Cette année, notre tourbillon extra-plat automatique RD3 reste dans la continuité des deux premiers, mais lorsque RD4 verra le jour l’an prochain, nous serons vraiment dans la disruption.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

François-Henry Bennahmias CEO, Audemars Piguet

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Jouez-vous un rôle dans cet aspect disruptif de la marque ? Je suis un grand curieux et j’aime être exposé à toutes sortes d’univers. Mais il s’agit plutôt de leadership bienveillant, qui embarque tout le monde dans l’action, afin que la jeunesse suive et devienne meilleure. La machine fonctionne plutôt bien aujourd’hui, mais nous nous remettons en cause en permanence. Avec un chiffre d’affaires atteignant presque les deux milliards cette année si tout va bien, et 2500 collaborateurs, Audemars Piguet fait maintenant figure de poids lourd dans l’horlogerie, mais elle a gardé son esprit très entrepreneurial permettant à chacun d’apporter sa pierre à l’édifice. Les jeunes y jouent un rôle, en nous challengeant aussi bien côté collaborateurs que côté clients, et si leurs idées sont pertinentes alors nous les appliquons. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

Que pensez-vous du phénomène de spéculation démesuré qui touche une poignée de marques ? C’est à double tranchant. C’est nouveau chez

BRICE LECHEVALIER Audemars Piguet dans la mesure où, il y a quatre-

What do you think of the phenomenon of exces-

cinq ans, aucune de nos montres ne valait plus cher

sive speculation that affects a handful of brands?

en seconde main que son prix public. L’aspect positif

It’s a double-edged sword. This is new at Audemars

réside dans le fait que la valeur perçue de la marque

Piguet insofar as four to five years ago none of our

a augmenté auprès de la clientèle, ce qui a créé de la

watches were worth more pre-owned than their

désirabilité. Les cases du succès sont cochées, certes,

retail price. The positive aspect is that the perceived

mais le revers de la médaille se reflète dans l’oppor-

value of the brand has increased among customers,

tunisme d’une nouvelle catégorie d’acheteurs qui

which has created desirability. While the boxes for

ne voient dans nos montres qu’un investissement,

success are ticked, the downside is reflected in the

comme s’ils achetaient des bitcoins, de l’art ou du

opportunism of a new category of buyers who see

vin, sans affinité particulière pour l’horlogerie, et

our watches only as an investment, as if they were

c’est là qu’il faut commencer à faire attention car le

buying bitcoins, art or wine, without any particu-

dérapage peut vite arriver. Dans un monde parfait,

lar affinity for watchmaking. This is where we have

le prix d’une montre à succès s’apprécie sur la durée.

to start being careful in that things can rapidly get

Aujourd’hui, il faut se méfier de cette folie car les

out of hand. In an ideal world, the price of a suc-

arbres ne poussent pas jusqu’au ciel, et cela va se rec-

cessful watch would rise steadily over time. Today,

tifier d’une manière ou d’une autre.

we have to be wary of this madness because trees

Quelles mesures prenez-vous

don’t grow to the sky, and there is bound to be a

« Je tire mon chapeau à toutes nos forces de vente car elles sont soumises à une pression colossale de la part de la clientèle pour accéder aux montres. »

correction one way or another.

“I take my hat off to all our sales staff because they are under enormous pressure from customers to get access to the watches.”

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Georges Kern

pour en tenir compte ?

What measures are you implementing

Avant toute chose, il faut éviter l’arrogance, surtout

to take this into account?

envers les clients et les prospects à qui il convient de

First and foremost, we must avoid arrogance, espe-

continuer à s’adresser avec bienveillance et respect.

cially towards customers and prospects, who should

Deux mesures s’imposent alors, transparence et per-

continue to be addressed with kindness and respect.

sévérance pour garder avec nous les clients qu’on ne

Two measures are necessary: transparency and per-

Diriez-vous que Breitling est devenue une marque disruptive ?

Would you say Breitling has become a disruptive brand?

peut pas servir aujourd’hui, mais à qui nous souhai-

severance to keep onboard the customers we cannot

Bien sûr que nous sommes disruptifs car nous sommes l’alterna-

We are of course disruptive, because we are the cool, casual alter-

tons pouvoir répondre favorablement dès que pos-

serve today, but to whom we wish to respond favor-

tive cool et décontractée aux marques classiques et convention-

native to the classic, conventional brands in our segment.

sible. Quand on prend le temps d’expliquer qu’en

ably as soon as possible. When we take the time to

nelles dans notre segment.

produisant 340 pièces par an d’une certaine réfé-

explain that we produce 340 units per year of a cer-

Ce n’est jamais un élément en particulier qui fait d’une marque

but rather the combination and multiplication of more or less sur-

rence et que nous devons les répartir entre nos 120

tain reference and that we have to distribute them

une marque disruptive. C’est la combinaison et la multiplication

prising elements that define a brand’s distinctive style. It is not

boutiques, soit 3 par boutique par an, alors le client

among our 120 stores, that is to say three per store

d’éléments plus ou moins étonnants qui définissent le style dis-

such or such brand ambassador who suddenly makes the differ-

comprend mieux la situation. Je tire mon chapeau à

per year, then the customer understands the situ-

tinctif d’une marque. Ce n’est pas tel ambassadeur d’une marque

ence, nor is it because a specific feature of a brand is copied that it

toutes nos forces de vente car elles sont soumises à

ation better. I take my hat off to all our sales staff

qui, tout d’un coup, va faire la différence. Ce n’est pas non plus

will be successful.

une pression colossale de la part de la clientèle pour

because they are under enormous pressure from cus-

parce que l’un ou l’autre élément d’une marque est copié, qu’elle

accéder aux montres. Il y a deux ans c’était une pres-

tomers to get access to the watches. Two years ago,

aura du succès.

sion amicale, cela le devient de moins en moins.

it was friendly pressure, but now it is less and less

Breitling c’est un tout ! C’est une marque compacte où les élé-

land and sea segments; our modern-retro style that combines vin-

Mais nous ne trichons pas sur nos quantités et nous

so. We nonetheless don’t cheat on our quantities

ments s’imbriquent les uns dans les autres. En l’occurrence,

tage and contemporary, as well as our neo-luxury values (casual,

ne provoquons pas cette situation, nous avons sim-

and we are not deliberately causing this situation,

nous avons : nos segments air, terre et mer, notre style moderne-

inclusive, responsible). These codes are expressed across the board,

plement des contraintes de production. En outre, si

we just have production constraints. Besides, if we

rétro qui allie vintage et contemporain ainsi que nos valeurs néo

from our squads to our partnerships and through to our products

vraiment nous fabriquions 5000 Royal Oak Jumbo au

really did make 5,000 Royal Oak Jumbo watches

Luxury (casual, inclusif, responsable). Ces codes s’expriment de

and the atmosphere in our boutiques. All of this is complemented

lieu de 1500 par an, elle perdrait sans doute en dési-

instead of 1,500 a year, it would probably lose its

manière transversale, de nos squads à nos partenariats, jusqu’à

by an ambitious digital strategy visible through our digital pres-

rabilité et les propriétaires

desirability, and the origi-

nos produits ou l’atmosphère dans nos boutiques. L’ensemble

ence, our blockchain-based digital passports and our #BreitlingSe-

de la première heure nous le

nal owners would blame us

est complété par une stratégie numérique ambitieuse visible via

lect watch subscription service, which enables our registered cus-

reprocheraient.

for that.

notre présence digitale, nos passeports numériques basés sur la

tomers to try on up to three watches before deciding to buy one.

Read the complete interview on

blockchain et notre service de souscription de montres #Breitling-

WorldTempus

Select qui permet à nos clients enregistrés d’essayer jusqu’à trois

Interview complète à lire sur WorldTempus

CEO Breitling

It is never one particular element that makes a brand disruptive,

Breitling is the whole package! It is a compact brand in which the respective elements are neatly dovetailed. We thus have our air,

montres avant de se décider à en acheter une.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection

REBELLION

BRICE LECHEVALIER

MARIE DE PIMODAN

A cœur ouvert ! Open-hearted!

DAVID CHOKRON

Nicola Andreatta CEO, Roger Dubuis

En quoi Roger Dubuis est-elle une marque disruptive ?

In what respect is Roger Dubuis a disruptive brand?

En tout ! Lorsque nous avons commencé à travailler sur les valeurs

In every respect! When we started working on the brand values,

de la marque, nous avons réalisé que le mot qui définissait le mieux

we realized that the word which best defined Roger Dubuis was

Roger Dubuis, c’était excès, du latin ex-cedo, aller au-delà. Cepen-

excess, from the Latin ex cedo, to go beyond. However, for some peo-

dant, excès peut facilement évoquer pour certains le côté sombre

ple, excess can easily evoke the dark side of strength, which we do

de la force, ce que nous ne souhaitons pas, raison pour laquelle

not want, and that’s why we have associated it with three notions:

nous l’avons associé à trois notions : liberté, folie et plaisir. Cette

freedom, madness and pleasure. This conceptual trilogy accompa-

trilogie conceptuelle accompagne tout ce que nous entreprenons.

nies everything we do. Going beyond has become the leitmotif of

Aller au-delà est devenu le leitmotiv de Roger Dubuis, dont les

Roger Dubuis, whose teams are constantly seeking to push limits

équipes cherchent constamment à repousser les limites et à ima-

and imagine new possibilities. We operate in the field of Hyper

giner de nouvelles possibilités. Nous évoluons dans l’Hyper Horo-

Horology that we have claimed as our own by trademarking the

logy, que nous nous sommes d’ailleurs appropriée en déposant le

term, which implies building on the tradition of fine watchmak-

terme, ce qui implique de se baser sur la tradition de haute horlo-

ing to reinvent it from an aesthetic and technical point of view.

gerie pour la réinventer d’un point de vue esthétique et technique.

This can for example involve looking for new designs and materi-

Par exemple, en cherchant de nouveaux designs et matériaux et en

als and creating new calibers, as the brand has always done, but

créant de nouveaux calibres, comme la marque l’a toujours fait,

while accentuating this approach. The brand’s disruptive spirit

mais en accentuant cette démarche. L’esprit disruptif de la marque

is also reflected in the choice of its partners, who also represent

se reflète également dans le choix de ses partenaires, qui eux aussi

disruptiveness in their own sphere. Take Lamborghini, which not

représentent la disruption dans leur univers. Prenez Lamborghini

only designs supercars but also enhances the concept with a char-

qui ne conçoit pas seulement des supercars mais qui sublime le

acteristic extra touch of audacity, especially on the aesthetic side.

concept avec la touche supplémentaire d’audace qui les caractérise,

The same goes for contemporary art with artists who think outside

notamment du côté esthétique. Idem dans l’art contemporain avec

the box and revolutionize their disciplines, such as graffiti artist

des artistes qui sortent des sentiers battus et

Gully and tattoo artist Dr. Woo who has

révolutionnent leurs disciplines, tels que le

reinvented his art, to name just two mem-

graffeur Gully ou le tatoueur Dr. Woo qui a

bers of our growing tribe.

réinventé l’art du tatouage, pour ne citer que

Read the complete interview on WorldTempus

ces deux membres de notre tribu qui prend de l’ampleur. Interview complète à lire sur WorldTempus

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Spider

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton

Maurice Lacroix démontre à nouveau son savoir-faire dans le domaine des montres squelettées avec ce tout nouveau mouvement Sellita mis en valeur par un boîtier en acier au diamètre inédit de 39mm. PRIX : CHF 3’200.–

Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Squelette Saphir

Transparence absolue pour cette édition limitée de 10 pièces dont le boîtier en saphir de 44mm offre une vision totale du mouvement de manufacture manuel squeletté dans les règles de l’art. PRIX : CHF 245’000.–

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton

Maurice Lacroix once again demonstrates its expertise in the field of skeletonized watches with this brand new Sellita movement set off by a steel case with an unprecedented diameter of 39mm. PRICE: CHF 3,200

Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire

Absolute transparency for this 10-piece limited edition, whose 44mm sapphire case offers a full view of the skeletonized Manufacture manualwinding movement. PRICE: CHF 245,000

Panerai Submersible S Edition Brabus Blue Shadow

Assortie au bateau de luxe Brabus Shadow 900 Deep Blue qui a fait ses débuts au Palma Boat Show, cette édition limitée de 200 pièces séduit par son boîtier en titane de 47mm et son nouveau calibre squeletté basé sur le calibre P.4000. PRIX : CHF 45’500.–

Panerai Submersible S Edition Brabus Blue Shadow

Matching the Brabus Shadow 900 Deep Blue luxury boat that made its debut at the Palma Boat Show, this 200-piece limited edition features an appealing 47mm titanium case housing a new skeletonized movement based on the P.4000 caliber.

Richard Mille RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson

Avec ce 3e calibre tourbillon développé avec Bubba Watson, Richard Mille voit la vie en rose puisque le boîtier en Quartz TPT et Carbone TPT de cette édition limitée de 50 pièces est inspiré par la couleur porte-bonheur du golfeur. PRIX : CHF 900’000.–

Richard Mille RM 38-02 Tourbillon Bubba Watson

With this third tourbillon Caliber developed alongside Bubba Watson, Richard Mille sees life in the pink since the TPT Quartz and TPT Carbon case of this 50-piece limited edition is inspired by the golfer’s lucky colour. PRICE: CHF 900,000

PRICE: CHF 45,500

Huracán MB

Urwerk UR-220 Red Gold

Alors que la collection UR-220 tire sa révérence, Urwerk lui offre de l’or 4N et un bracelet texturé d’un blanc immaculé. Un look très 80’s pour cette édition limitée toujours animée par le Calibre manuel UR-7.20. PRIX : CHF 149’000.–

Urwerk UR-220 Red Gold

As the UR-220 collection takes its final bow, Urwerk is offering it 4N gold and an immaculate textured white strap. A resolutely 1980s vibe for this limited edition still powered by the UR-7.20 manual-winding caliber. PRICE: CHF 149,000

Purnell Unique Escape II Absolute Sapphire « Hancock Red »

Le Double Spherion, soit le tourbillon à triple axe le plus rapide au monde, trouve un nouvel écrin aussi rare que flamboyant dans cette pièce unique en saphir rouge inspirée par l’un des plus illustres diamants rouges, le fameux Hancock Red. PRIX : CHF 2’000’000.–

Purnell Unique Escape II Absolute Sapphire “Hancock Red”

The Double Spherion, the world’s fastest triple-axis tourbillon, has been treated to a ‘jewel case’ as rare as it is flamboyant in this one-of-a-kind timepiece inspired by one of the world’s most famous red diamonds, the famous Hancock Red. PRICE: CHF 2,000,000

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

MARIE DE PIMODAN

Un grain de folie dans nos montres Watches showcase a touch of madness

Corum Bubble X Ray

Avec son boîtier XXL et son imposant verre bombé, la Bubble X Ray limitée à 88 pièces fait un clin d’œil au premier modèle Bubble lancé en 2000. Cerise sur le gâteau, le crâne est luminescent la nuit. PRIX : CHF 4’000.–

Corum Bubble X Ray

With its XXL case and its imposing curved glass, the 88-piece Bubble X Ray limited series is a nod to the first Bubble model launched in 2000. The icing on the cake is that the skull is luminescent at night. PRICE: CHF CHF 4,000

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra

Jusqu’où ira Bvlgari dans la quête de l’épure ? Avec l’Octo Finissimo Ultra et sa silhouette de seulement 1,8mm, la maison présente la montre mécanique la plus fine du monde en 10 exemplaires. Un 8e record du monde de finesse ! PRIX : CHF 427’000.–

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra

How far will Bulgari go in its quest for purity? With the Octo Finissimo Ultra and its incredibly slender 1.8mm silhouette, the company is presenting the world’s thinnest mechanical watch in a 10-piece limited edition. An eighth world slimness record! PRICE: CHF 427,000

ID Genève Circular « S »

ID Genève franchit une nouvelle étape dans sa quête de circularité. Outre son mouvement reconditionné et son boîtier en acier 100% recyclé et fondu dans un four solaire, la Circular « S » est prolongée par le premier bracelet sans plastique, compostable industriellement et vegan. PRIX : À PARTIR DE CHF 3’950.–

ID Genève Circular “S”

ID Genève has taken a new step in its quest for circularity. In addition to its refurbished movement movement and its case in 100% recycled stainless steel melted in a solar furnace, the Circular “S” is fitted with the first plastic-free, industrially compostable and and vegan strap. PRICE: FROM CHF 3,950

100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Purple Panda

« Purple is the new black » pour Czapek qui teinte d’un violet intense le cadran guilloché « Résonance » de la collection Faubourg de Cracovie. Un must-have en édition limitée de 18 pièces. PRIX : CHF 31’233.– TTC

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Purple Panda

“Purple is the new black” for Czapek, which adorns the “Resonance” guilloché dial of the Faubourg de Cracovie collection with an intense shade of purple. A must-have in an 18-piece limited edition. PRICE: CHF 31,233 INCL. VAT

Ulysse Nardin Freak S

C’est un nouvel ovni horloger qui traverse la galaxie d’Ulysse Nardin puisque la Freak S accueille le tout premier double oscillateur à différentiel automatique dans une nouvelle boîte inspirée de la première Freak de 2001. L’édition est limitée à 75 pièces. PRIX : CHF 130’000.–

Ulysse Nardin Freak S

A new watchmaking UFO in a 75-piece limited edition appears in the Ulysse Nardin galaxy, as the Freak S features the first ever double oscillator with automatic differential in a new case inspired by the first Freak of 2001. PRICE: CHF 130,000

Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit

Moins d’espace, plus de spectacle : tel était le cahier des charges pour concevoir la nouvelle Memoris Spirit dans un diamètre inédit de 40mm. Et ce, avec une vision optimale de la construction du mécanisme du chronographe. Mission accomplie avec ce modèle en titane limité à 60 pièces ! PRIX SUR DEMANDE

Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit

Less space, more show: such were the specifications for designing the new Memoris Spirit in an unprecedented 40mm diameter – along with ensuring an optimal view of the chronograph mechanism’s construction. Mission accomplished with this 60-piece limited-edition titanium model! PRICE: ON REQUEST

Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Bracelet

Cinq ans après leur première collaboration, Hublot et le plasticien Richard Orlinski continuent de fusionner leurs savoir-faire pour sculpter cette montre en titane sertie de diamants prolongée par un bracelet biseauté, facetté et composé de 83 pièces. Une première.

PRIX : 21’500 EUROS

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

With the three eccentric and floating rings of the Une Folle Journée watch, Trilobe once again breaks the rules of watch design. On the wrist, time takes flight beneath a 10.2mm sapphire dome. PRICE: 21,500 EUROS

Le tourbillon de la vie, des planètes et du temps qui s’écoule prend d’autant plus de saveur qu’il survole une série de 4 crânes en or posés sur un fond en aventurine. Un spectacle fascinant à admirer dans cette édition limitée de 6 pièces. PRIX SUR DEMANDE

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Skulls

The vortex of life, the planets and the passage of time are all the more spectacular as the tourbillon flies over a series of four gold skulls set against an aventurine background. A fascinating vision to be admired in this six-piece limited edition. PRICE: ON REQUEST

Zenith Defy Extreme E « Desert X Prix » Edition

Audace et puissance sont réunies dans cette montre en carbone et titane microbillé de 45mm cadencée par un mouvement précis au 1/100e de seconde. Une montre tout-terrain ! PRIX : CHF 26’900.–

PRIX : CHF 42’900.–

Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Bracelet

Five years after their first collaboration, Hublot and artist Richard Orlinski continue to merge their expertise to sculpt this titanium watch set with diamonds and extended by a beveled, faceted bracelet composed of 83 parts. A first.

Zenith Defy Extreme E “Desert X Prix” Edition

Boldness and power converge in this 45mm carbon and bead-blasted titanium watch with a movement accurate to the nearest hundredth of a second. An all-terrain watch! PRICE: CHF 26,900

PRICE : CHF 42,900

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

Avec les trois anneaux en mouvement excentrés et flottants de la montre Folle Journée, Trilobe s’affranchit à nouveau des règles du design horloger. Au poignet, le temps prend son envol sous un dôme de saphir de 10,2mm.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Skulls

Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium

« Tu me fais tourner la tête » pourrait-on fredonner à la vue des 12 tanzanites taille princesse qui circulent autour du cadran grâce à une simple pression sur le bouton poussoir de cette G-Timeless Planetarium en or blanc. Magique ! PRIX : 220’000 EUROS

Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium

The head-spinning sight of 12 princess-cut tanzanites turning around the dial at the touch of a button on this white gold G-Timeless Planetarium is pure magic! PRICE: 220,000 EUROS

Une grande finesse et beaucoup d’élégance pour cette montre en titane extraplate qui accueille le mouvement manuel DB2115v11 au sein de son boîtier en titane dans une édition limitée de 25 pièces. La réserve de marche de 6 jours est indiquée côté fond. PRIX : CHF 82’000.–

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

Great finesse and considerable elegance are the hallmarks of this ultra-thin titanium 25-piece limited edition watch housing the DB2115v11 hand-wound movement within its titanium case. The six-day power reserve is indicated on the back. PRICE: CHF 82,000

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 101

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection A. LANGE & SÖHNE

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

ARMIN STROM

MARIE DE PIMODAN

Orbit – First Edition

BOÎTIER : acier, lunette en céramique, fond saphir, étanche à 50m TAILLE : 43,4mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique par micro-rotor, barillet à force égale, 25’200 alt/h, 72 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : excentré en or noir FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, date, réserve de marche BRACELET : acier, double boucle déployante EDITION LIMITÉE : 25 exemplaires PRIX : CHF 29’500.–

Odysseus

BOÎTIER : titane, fond saphir, étanche à 120m

TAILLE : 40,5mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre L155.1 Datomatic, 28’800 alt/h, 50 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : laiton, bleu glacier FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, date et jour de la semaine BRACELET : titane, boucle déployante avec mécanisme de réglage fin EDITION LIMITÉE : 250 exemplaires PRIX : CHF 54’400.–

Orbit – First Edition

Odysseus

CASE: titanium, sapphire back, water-resistant to 120m

SIZE: 40.5mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber L155.1 Datomatic, 28,800 vph, 50h power reserve DIAL: brass, glacier blue FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, date and day of the week BRACELET: titanium, folding clasp with fine-adjustment mechanism LIMITED EDITION: 250 PRICE: CHF 54,400

Avec quelques grammes

de moins

A few grams

less

As summer sets in and vacations are on the horizon, one particular timepiece has arrived at just the right time. Lighter and therefore sportier but just as refined, the Odysseus is now attired in titanium – a first for A. Lange & Söhne,

CASE: steel, ceramic bezel, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 43.4mm MOVEMENT: mechanical with automatic winding by micro-rotor, barrel with constantforce transmission, 25,200 vph, 72h power reserve DIAL: off-center in black gold FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve STRAP: steel, double folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 25 PRICE: CHF 29,500

La date

en orbite

The date

in orbit

The date indication, a watchmaking must? In addition to the hours and minutes, it is indeed common to be able to check the date with a quick glance at the dial. Except that for Armin Strom, there is no question of staying on the beaten track of watch complications: rather than being displayed in a counter or via a hand on the dial, the

which until now has worked exclusively with

L’indication du quantième, b.a-ba de l’horlogerie ? En plus de l’heure et de

date is placed on the black ceramic bezel of the Orbit

A l’heure où l’été s’installe et que les grandes vacances pointent le bout de

the noblest and most precious materials. Light,

la minute, il est en effet courant de pouvoir s’enquérir de la date d’un rapide

– First Edition model. A large central hand extended

leur nez, voilà un garde-temps qui arrive à point nommé. Plus légère et donc

robust, comfortable and water-resistant to 120

coup d’œil au cadran. Sauf que pour Armin Strom, pas question de rester sur

by the initial “A” is driven by a column wheel vis-

plus sportive mais toujours aussi raffinée, l’Odysseus s’habille désormais de

meters, this 250-piece limited edition is suited to

les sentiers battus des complications horlogères : plutôt que de s’afficher dans

ible on the dial side and thus points to the days of

titane. Une première chez A. Lange & Söhne qui avait jusqu’alors travaillé exclu-

all types of activities. It is thus a sporty watch that

un compteur ou via une aiguille sur le cadran, la date est placée sur la lunette

the month when the “on” mode is activated, using

sivement les matériaux les plus nobles et précieux. Légère, robuste, confortable

nonetheless retains the functionality and elegance

en céramique noire du modèle Orbit – First Edition. Une large aiguille centrale

the pusher on the left side of the steel case. In this

et étanche jusqu’à 120 mètres, cette édition limitée de 250 pièces se prête à tous

characterizing the first two Odysseus models. The

prolongée par l’initiale « A » est entraînée par une roue à colonnes visible côté

mode, the date changes automatically every day at

les types d’activités. Une montre sportive, donc, qui ne renie pas pour autant la

40.5mm case, fitted with a titanium bracelet,

cadran et pointe ainsi les jours du mois quand le mode « on » est actionné, à

midnight. In the “off” position, the date hand is

fonctionnalité et l’élégance caractéristiques des deux premiers modèles Odys-

frames an appealing glacier blue dial that gives

l’aide du bouton poussoir placé à gauche du boîtier en acier. Avec ce mode, la

placed in stationary mode at 12 o’clock so as not to

seus. Au sein du boîtier de 40,5mm prolongé par un bracelet en titane se dévoile

pride of place to the day of the week and large date

date change automatiquement chaque jour à minuit. En mode « off », l’aiguille

obstruct the vision of the micro-rotor the watch’s

un harmonieux cadran bleu glacier qui fait la part belle à l’indication du jour

indications, powered by the in-house L155.1 Dato-

de la date est placée en mode stationnaire à 12h de manière à ne pas entraver la

equal force barrel. An impressive feat for this first

de la semaine et de la grande date. Et ce, grâce au calibre de manufacture L155.1

matic caliber, a champion of reliability and preci-

vision du micro-rotor et du barillet à force égale de la montre. Un tour de force

25-piece edition serving as a reminder that technol-

Datomatic, un champion de fiabilité et de précision, idéal pour cadencer le

sion, ideal for keeping time with a light touch.

pour cette première édition de 25 pièces qui rappelle que la technique est avant

ogy is above all dedicated to serving functionality.

temps, en toute légèreté.

tout au service de la fonctionnalité.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Le subtil équilibre entre le raffinement de ce modèle et ses qualités sportives qui lui confèrent une aisance naturelle dans toutes les situations.

102 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The subtle balance between the refinement of this model and its sporting qualities, which ensure it is naturally at ease in any situation.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La possibilité très pratique de choisir entre les modes « on » et « off » de la fonction date, permettant ainsi de l’indiquer à la demande.

The very practical possibility of choosing between “on” and “off” modes for the date function, thus serving to indicate this information on demand.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 103

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection CHANEL

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

DOXA

MARIE DE PIMODAN

Mademoiselle

s’amuse

La créativité, l’audace et l’élégance de Gabrielle Chanel ne sont plus un secret pour personne. Mais qu’en est-il de son sens de l’humour ? Aurait-elle souri à la vue de sa propre silhouette stylisée par les designers horlogers de la maison qui porte son nom ? Chez Chanel, cela ne fait aucun doute. Pas question, donc, de se priver de rendre un nouvel hommage en forme de clin d’œil à la fondatrice de la maison en revisitant son inimitable allure sur le cadran de l’édition limitée Montre Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa. Une interprétation ludique et joyeuse inspirée d’une photo prise dans le jardin de sa maison de villégiature située dans le sud de la France et baptisée La Pausa. Vêtue d’une marinière et d’un pantalon à pont, Mademoiselle pointe ainsi du doigt l’heure et la minute sur cette version en céramique noire auréolée d’une lunette sertie de diamants taille baguette. Une montre malicieuse qui n’en oublie pas moins d’être précise : ce modèle est le premier de la série J12 Mademoiselle à être équipé du Calibre J12.1 dans sa version exclusive, entièrement noire.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Le savant mélange de technicité et de préciosité du mouvement et de la boîte, mâtiné d’une touche d’humour malicieux. Une montre hommage qui ne se prend surtout pas au sérieux.

Montre Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa

BOÎTIER : céramique noire et or blanc, lunette sertie de 46 diamants taille baguette, fond saphir, étanche à 50m TAILLE : 38mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (Calibre de Manufacture 12.1, 70 h de réserve de marche) FONCTIONS : heures, minutes CADRAN : laqué noir avec illustration de Mademoiselle Chanel BRACELET : céramique noire, boucle déployante en or blanc EDITION LIMITÉE : 55 pièces PRIX : CHF 118’450.–

Mademoiselle shows her Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa watch

CASE: black ceramic and white gold, bezel set with 46 baguette-cut diamonds, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 38mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding (Manufacture Caliber 12.1, 70h power reserve) FUNCTION: hours, minutes DIAL: black lacquered with depiction of Mademoiselle Chanel BRACELET: black ceramic, white gold folding clasp LIMITED EDITION: 55 units PRICE: CHF118,450

fun side

SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl

BOÎTIER : carbone forgé, lunette tournante unidirectionnelle,

fond plein, étanche à 300m TAILLE : 42,50 x 45mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre Sellita SW200-1 certifié COSC, 28’800 alt/h, 38 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : enduit de SuperLuminova blanc FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date BRACELET : caoutchouc blanc assorti au cadran PRIX : CHF 3’890.–

Un été

en toute légèreté

SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl

CASE: forged carbon, unidirectional rotating bezel, solid back, water-resistant to 300m SIZE: 42.50 x 45mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Sellita Caliber SW200-1, COSC certified, 28,800 vph, 38h power reserve DIAL: white Super-LumiNova coating FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, date STRAP: white rubber matching the dial PRICE: CHF 3,890

A light and airy

summer

Doxa is riding the wave of success of the SUB 200 Whitepearl launched last year by sending a wave of whiteness across its entire SUB collection – starting with the famous SUB 300 Carbon which shines in

Everyone is now aware of Gabrielle Chanel’s creativity, audacity and elegance. But what

Doxa surfe sur la vague du succès de la SUB 200 Whitepearl lancée l’année der-

more than one way and in every circumstance! It

about her sense of humor? Would she have smiled at the sight of her own silhouette styled by

nière en impulsant une déferlante de blancheur sur l’ensemble de sa collection

is above all in the darkness of the abyss, up to 300

the watch designers of the house that bears her name? Chanel is entirely certain she would.

SUB. A commencer par la fameuse SUB 300 Carbon qui brille à plus d’un titre.

meters deep, that it reveals its trump card: phe-

So why forego the chance to pay a new tribute to the founder of the Maison by revisiting her

Et dans toutes les circonstances ! C’est avant tout dans l’obscurité des abysses,

nomenal legibility thanks to its dial entirely coated

inimitable allure on the dial of the Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa limited edition? This playful

jusqu’à 300 mètres de profondeur, qu’elle révèle sa carte maîtresse : une lisibi-

with Super-LumiNova. Underwater, the entire dial

and joyful interpretation is inspired by a photo taken in the garden of her vacation home

lité phénoménale grâce à son cadran entièrement enduit de SuperLuminova.

lights up, creating a glow that also works on land

in the south of France and named La Pausa. Dressed in a sailor top and fall-front trousers,

Sous l’eau, c’est donc l’ensemble du cadran qui s’illumine. Un éclat qui fonc-

during long summer evenings. This watch with its

Mademoiselle points to the hours and minutes on this black ceramic version featuring a bezel

tionne aussi sur la terre ferme, lors des longues soirées d’été. Car cette montre

techy look and sleek lines has the added advantage

set with baguette-cut diamonds. A mischievous watch that remains as accurate as one would

au look tech et aux lignes racées a pour autre avantage un poids plume de seu-

of weighing only 87 grams: you can’t feel it on the

expect, this model is the first in the Mademoiselle J12 series to be equipped with the exclu-

lement 87 grammes : au poignet, on ne la sent pas mais une chose est sûre, elle

wrist, but it definitely stands out!

sive, all-black J12.1 caliber.

se remarque !

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

The clever blend of technicality and preciousness of the case and movement, combined with a touch of mischievous humor. A tribute watch that does not take itself seriously.

La rencontre du carbone combiné à l’effet irisé du cadran qui s’illumine entièrement une fois plongé dans l’obscurité.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

104 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The encounter between carbon and the iridescent effect of the dial that lights up completely when plunged into darkness.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection GUCCI

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

H. MOSER & CIE.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

DAVID CHOKRON

Grip

Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic Blacker than Black

BOÎTIER : saphir, fond transparent, étanche à 30m TAILLE : 40mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (40 h de réserve de marche) FONCTION : heure sautante CADRAN : saphir BRACELET : caoutchouc transparent, boucle ardillon PRIX : CHF 88’000.–

BOÎTE : matière inconnue, recouverte de Vantablack TAILLE : imperceptible MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre HMC902 FONCTIONS : heures et minutes, chronographe à retour en vol avec deux aiguilles coaxiales CADRAN : Vantablack, aiguilles garnies de Globolight BRACELET : matière inconnue, recouverte de Vantablack PRIX : prototype pas à vendre

Grip

CASE: sapphire crystal, transparent caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE: 40mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding (40h power reserve) FUNCTION: jumping hours DIAL: sapphire STRAP: transparent rubber, pin buckle PRICE: CHF 88,000

Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic Blacker than Black

CASE: unknown material, covered with Vantablack SIZE: imperceptible MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber HMC902 FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes, flyback chronograph with two co-axial hands DIAL: Vantablack, Globolight-enhanced hands STRAP: unknown material, coated with Vantablack PRICE: prototype not for sale

Rainbow luxury

For six years, H. Moser & Cie. has been leveraging the properties of Vantablack. This carbon nanotube-based material gives a black shade to protected

Why do things like everyone else when you can do them like Gucci? During Watches and Wonders, Gucci chose to host its VIP clients and the media elite

Luxe arc-en-ciel

Blacker than the deepest black

within a magnificent estate at the entrance to Geneva and overlooking the lake. The entire Haute Horlogerie collection was superbly presented, as well as the

Plus noir

que le plus profond des noirs

elements such as the dials on several of the brand’s timepieces. Its structure and composition totally trap the light and therefore extinguish volumes, absorb any reflection and deceive the eye. This time, H. Moser & Cie. has decided to change gears with a watch that is a veritable black hole. The term is appropriate because the Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic

new collection of more affordable yet equally cheerful and original watches!

Blacker than Black absorbs 99.965% of photons. Its

After a very successful entry into the world of Haute

Depuis six ans, H. Moser & Cie. exploite les propriétés du Vantablack. Cette

case, its dial, its strap and everything about it is so

Pourquoi faire les choses comme tout le monde quand on peut les faire comme

Horlogerie last year, marking the 50 anniversary

matière à base de nanotubes de carbone teinte en noir des éléments protégés,

black that against a background of the same color,

Gucci ? Durant Watches and Wonders, Gucci avait choisi de recevoir ses clients

of its first watches, Gucci is once again raising the

typiquement le cadran de plusieurs pièces de la marque. Sa structure et sa com-

whatever the angle, it disappears completely. The

VIP et le gotha des médias dans un magnifique domaine surplombant le Léman,

bar. Its move upmarket is taking place at the top

position piègent totalement la lumière et donc, éteignent les volumes, absorbent

brand had to rely on the hands to make it stand out.

à l’entrée de Genève. Toute la collection de haute horlogerie y était superbement

of the pyramid as well as at the base, with fewer

tout reflet et trompent l’œil. Cette fois-ci, H. Moser & Cie. a décidé de changer

And even then, these appear to be floating in the

présentée, ainsi que la nouvelle collection de montres plus accessibles – mais

yet more high-quality references. In luxury watch-

de braquet avec une montre qui est un véritable trou noir. Le terme est adapté

void. This piece is still a demonstration prototype

tout aussi gaies et originales ! Après une entrée très remarquée l’an passé dans

making, Gucci is asserting its style and broaden-

car la Streamliner Chronograph Flyback Automatic Blacker than Black absorbe

for now and would not be wearable as such because

l’univers de la haute horlogerie, soulignant le 50e anniversaire de ses premières

ing its range. Such is the case of the famous Grip,

99,965% des photons. Sa boite, son cadran, son bracelet, tout en elle est si noir

this form of Vantablack is fragile. The brand none-

montres, Gucci relève encore le niveau. Sa montée en gamme s’opère au sommet

which is now available in mint green sapphire,

que sur un arrière-plan de la même couleur, quel que soit l’angle, elle disparaît

theless confidently states that it has a solution for

de la pyramide comme à la base, avec moins de références mais plus qualitatives.

totalement. La marque a dû tout miser sur les aiguilles pour la faire émerger.

producing a wrist-wearable version, which one can

En haute horlogerie, Gucci affirme son style et élargit son offre. Il en va ainsi de

ment. Along with the new team he is putting

Et même là, elles semblent flotter dans le vide. Cette pièce est pour l’instant un

imagine all the more easily in that the product is

la fameuse Grip qui se décline cette fois en saphir couleur menthe, animée par

in place, Managing Director Watches & Jewelry

prototype de démonstration, importable en l’état car cette forme de Vantablack

already used on outdoor surfaces in aerospace and

un mouvement automatique à heure sautante. Avec la nouvelle équipe qu’il met

Maurizio Pisanu is positioning Gucci in a new seg-

est fragile. Mais la marque assure avoir une solution pour en produire une ver-

military environments.

en place, le patron de la division horlogère et joaillière, Maurizio Pisanu, posi-

ment: that of rainbow luxury.

sion portable au poignet, qu’on imagine d’autant plus facilement que le produit

tionne Gucci sur un nouveau segment : le luxe arc-en-ciel.

est utilisé sur les surfaces extérieures en milieu spatial et militaire.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Le boîtier de forme coussin en saphir menthe au centre duquel l’heure sautante accentue l’aspect ludique de cette montre de haute horlogerie.

106 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The cushion-shaped case in mint green sapphire with central jumping hours accentuating the playfulness of this Haute Horlogerie watch.

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La logique du noir poussée à son extrême, avec un rendu époustouflant. La promesse d’une pièce de série est plus qu’alléchante : mystérieuse.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The logic of black pushed to its utmost extreme, resulting in a breathtaking rendering. The promise of a series-made piece is very appealing and decidedly mysterious.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 107

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection HYT

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

BRICE LECHEVALIER

JORDY BELLIDO

Moon Runner

BOÎTIER : titane, fond saphir, étanche à 50m

DIMENSIONS : 48x52,3mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel (calibre 601-MO, 72h de réserve de marche), deux soufflets à capillaires FONCTIONS : heures rétrogrades fluidiques, minutes, date, mois, phases de lune CADRAN : multicouche, indications luminescentes BRACELET : alcantara bleu et caoutchouc noir, boucle déployante en titane SÉRIE LIMITÉE : 27 pièces PRIX : CHF 120’000.–

CASE: titanium, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m

La Moon Runner éclipse

l’ennui

Polaris Perpetual Calendar

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre

SIZE: 42mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 868AA, 28,800 vph, 70h power reserve DIAL: gradient blue lacquer FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in both hemispheres and red security zone, rotating inner bezel BRACELET/STRAP: steel and rubber for the steel version; leather and rubber for the pink gold version. Interchangeable bracelet/strap system. Folding clasp for the steel and leather versions, and pin buckle for the rubber version PRICE: CHF 47,500

BOÎTIER : acier ou or rose, fond saphir, étanche à 100m TAILLE : 42mm

Moon Runner

DIMENSIONS: 48x52,3mm MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound (Caliber 601-MO, 72h power reserve), two capillary bellows FUNCTION: retrograde fluidic hours, minutes, date, months, moon phases DIAL: multi-layer, luminescent indications STRAP: blue alcantara and black rubber, titanium folding clasp LIMITED SERIES OF 27 PRICE: CHF120,000

Polaris Perpetual Calendar

The Moon Runner

eclipses boredom

868AA, 28’800 alt/h, 70 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : laque bleue dégradée FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, calendrier perpétuel avec phases de la lune dans les deux hémisphères et zone de sécurité rouge, lunette intérieure tournante BRACELET : acier et caoutchouc pour la version en acier, cuir et caoutchouc pour la version en or rose. Système de bracelets interchangeables. Boucle déployante pour les versions acier et cuir, et ardillon pour celle en caoutchouc PRIX : CHF 47’500.–

Numerous dimensions have already been explored in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Ten years after its launch, HYT is embarking on a new odyssey, powered by its mecha-fluidic technology. In the wake of the Hastroid launched in early 2022, the Moon Runner was unveiled during Watches and Wonders, offering a new moon to lovers of sophisticated watches with a powerful personality. The voluminous blue central depiction of the Earth’s

CASE: steel or pink gold, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 100m

En perpétuelle

évolution

Perpetually

evolving

Re-launched at the 2018 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the Polaris collection brought Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in diving watches back to the forefront. Four years later, it continues to grow in complexity, incorporat-

Dans l’univers de la haute horlogerie, beaucoup de dimensions ont déjà été

satellite out against the dial, its base surrounded by

explorées. Dix ans après son lancement, HYT entame une nouvelle odyssée, pro-

two titanium rings displaying the date and month.

Relancée au Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie de Genève en 2018,

the next manual correction will be required in 2100).

pulsée par sa technologie méca-fluidique. Dans le sillage de l’Hastroid, mise en

By enlarging the circles, the minutes are displayed

la collection Polaris a remis sur le devant de la scène le savoir-faire de Jaeger-

Picking up the aesthetic codes of the Polaris Mariner

orbite début 2022, la Moon Runner a été dévoilée durant Watches and Wonders en

in increments of five, indicated by a rotating white

LeCoultre en matière de montres de plongée. Quatre ans plus tard, elle ne cesse de

Memovox with its graduated blue dial evoking the

offrant une nouvelle lune aux amateurs de montres sophistiquées à forte person-

cursor, while the hours float in space at the edge of

se complexifier en intégrant pour la première fois un calendrier perpétuel (dont

transition from day to night, the Polaris Perpetual

nalité. Bleue et centrale, la lune se profile tout en volume. Les deux anneaux en

the bezel, highlighted by the capillary tube contain-

la prochaine correction manuelle aura lieu en 2100). Reprenant les codes esthé-

Calendar not only indicates the date, day, month

titane qui l’encerclent en contrebas indiquent la date et le mois. En élargissant

ing the colored fluid showing the time. A mechani-

tiques de la Polaris Mariner Memovox avec son cadran bleu gradué évoquant le

(as well as the year in this instance) and the moon

les cercles, les minutes s’affichent par tranches de cinq pointées, par un curseur

cal and physical feat, this liquid retrograde display

passage du jour à la nuit, la Polaris Perpetual Calendar n’indique pas seulement

phases in the Northern hemisphere, but it also

blanc rotatif, alors que les heures flottent dans l’espace aux limites de la lunette,

is driven by a mechanical movement. Ready for an

la date, le jour, le mois (ainsi que l’année dans ce cas-ci) et les phases de lune dans

provides information on the positions of the moon

soulignées par le tube capillaire contenant le fluide coloré indiquant l’heure.

interstellar journey?

l’hémisphère Nord, mais elle renseigne aussi sur les positions de la lune au sud

lying south of the equator, by means of a retrograde

de l’équateur, au moyen d’une aiguille rétrograde à 6h. Rendue possible grâce au

hand at 6 o’clock. Powered by the caliber specifically

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

calibre spécifiquement développé pour ce modèle, cette évolution mécanique offre

developed for this model, this mechanical evolution

The even more meticulous movement finishes; the new delicately openworked multi-layer case middle; and the sandwich-type construction that makes these HYT watches more aesthetically harmonious and elegant.

également une réserve de marche augmentée.

is also endowed with a longer power reserve.

Exploit mécanique et physique, cet affichage rétrograde liquide est animé par un mouvement mécanique. Qui est prêt pour le voyage stellaire ?

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

Des finitions de calibre plus soignées, la nouvelle carrure multicouche délicatement ajourée et le mode de construction en sandwich qui rend ces montres HYT plus harmonieuses et élégantes.

108 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

ing for the first time a perpetual calendar (of which

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

L’affichage des phases de la lune des deux hémisphères, faisant ainsi tenir le monde entier sur le poignet.

The display of the moon phases in both hemispheres, bringing the whole world to the wrist.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 109

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection L.LEROY

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

PATEK PHILIPPE

JORDY BELLIDO

DAVID CHOKRON

Patek Philippe Chronographe monopoussoir 1/10ème de seconde Réf. 5470P

BOÎTE : platine 950, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche 30 m (3 bar)

TAILLE : 41 mm, 13,68 mm d’épaisseur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10, 5 Hz, 48 heures de marche FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, petite seconde, chronographe monopoussoir avec affichage du 10ème de seconde au centre CADRAN : bleu galvanique, index en or gris, aiguilles feuille en or gris, trotteuse du 10e en silicium laqué BRACELET : cuir de veau bleu embossé motif textile, boucle déployante en platine PRIX : sur demande

Patek Philippe 1/10th of a second monopusher chronograph Reference 5470P

CASE: 950 platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m (3 bar) SIZE: 41mm, 13.68mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical, manually wound Caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, 5 Hz, 48h power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, single push-button chronograph with central tenth-of-a-second display DIAL: galvanic blue, white gold hour-markers, white gold leaf-shaped hands, lacquered silicon tenth-of-a-second hand STRAP: blue calf leather with embossed fabric pattern, platinum folding clasp PRICE: on request

Osmior Tourbillon Régulateur Squelette Art Déco

BOÎTIER : or rose 4N 18 carats, fond saphir, étanche à 50 mètres

DIAMÈTRE : 41mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre LL512, 28’800 alt/h, 52 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : or, ajouré FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, tourbillon volant BRACELET : cuir d’alligator cousu main, boucle en or rose 4N 18 carats PRIX : CHF 168’500.–

Platinum lab

PIÈCE UNIQUE

Art Deco Osmior Skeleton Tourbillon Regulator

Patek Philippe does not usually chase performance as such. Lining up num-

CASE: 4N 18K pink gold, sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER: 41mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber

Laboratoire

LL512, 28,800 vph, 52h power reserve DIAL: gold, openworked FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, flying tourbillon STRAP: hand-stitched alligator leather, 4N 18K pink gold buckle PRICE: CHF 168’500 SINGLE-PIECE EDITION

déco

Art

de platine

Deco

bers and speeds are not the company’s style. It was thus all the more surprising when the brand revealed its Reference 5470P, the brand’s first chronograph operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. Behind appearances, this unveiling actually involves something quite different: a determination to maintain the highest level of mechanical innovation at one of the watch industry’s most powerful technical offices, thanks to a project

Patek Philippe ne court habituellement pas après la performance. Les chiffres,

that pushes every existing limit – except that of

les vitesses, ce n’est pas le genre de la maison. La surprise n’en a été que plus

frequency, since 5 Hz is no longer a feat in itself.

L.Leroy presents a timepiece whose graphic lines are reminiscent of the Art Deco

grande quand la marque a révélé sa ref.5470P, premier chronographe de la manu-

Caliber 5470P is therefore a vehicle for innovations,

style. Drawing on more than 230 years of expertise,

facture à fonctionner à 36’000 alternances par heure. Voilà pour les apparences.

seven of which are the subject of new patents.

Passée maître dans les grandes complications ainsi que dans l’art traditionnel

the watchmaker presents a flying tourbillon teamed

En réalité, le geste est tout autre. Il consiste à maintenir au plus haut niveau d’in-

They concern the chronograph function, its power

du squelettage, la maison L. Leroy présente une pièce dont les lignes graphiques

with an openworked dial featuring entirely hand-

novation mécanique l’un des bureaux techniques les plus puissants de l’industrie

reserve, its reliability and a new mode of reading

ne sont pas sans rappeler le style Art déco. S’appuyant sur un savoir-faire de plus

crafted cut-outs. This openworking also reveals some

horlogère avec un projet qui repousse toutes les limites. Toutes, sauf celles de la

tenths of a second, the only real justification for

de 230 ans, l’horloger présente un tourbillon volant accompagné d’un cadran

of the movement’s components revealed through

fréquence, puisque les 5 Hz n’ont plus rien d’un exploit. Le calibre de la 5470P

the transition to 5 Hz. Two seconds hands share the

ajouré, dont les découpes sont entièrement réalisées à la main. Cet ajourage laisse

other cut-outs made with a small hand saw before

est donc un véhicule d’innovations, dont sept font l’objet de nouveaux brevets.

center: one measures the seconds and makes one

également entrevoir les autres découpes présentes sur certains composants du

being filed and chamfered. This craftsmanship

Elles portent sur la fonction chronographe, sa durée de marche, sa fiabilité et un

full sweep per minute. The other turns once every

mouvement, qui sont effectuées à l’aide d’une petite scie à main pour être ensuite

enabling light to flood into the movement requires

nouveau mode de lecture du 10e de seconde, seule justification réelle au passage

12 seconds and enables accurate and clear tenth-

limées et anglées. Ce travail, qui offre une pénétration optimale de la lumière

skills possessed by very few artisans and entails two

à 5 Hz. Deux trotteuses se partagent le centre. L’une mesure les secondes et fait

of-a-second readings on a railway-track scale. The

dans le mouvement, mais que peu d’artistes peuvent réaliser, nécessite deux mois

full months of work. The dial motif is picked up on

un tour par minute. La seconde fait un tour toutes les 12 secondes et permet une

dial is housed in a moderately sized platinum case

complets de travail. Le motif présent sur le cadran se retrouve également sur les

the case sides and the oscillating weight, thereby

lecture fine et claire du 10e sur la minuterie chemin de fer. Le tout dans une boite

despite a very complex caliber comprising 84 more

côtés du boîtier ainsi que la masse oscillante. Ce qui apporte une bonne cohérence

endowing this one-of-a-kind creation with pleasing

en platine aux proportions préservées malgré un calibre très complexe, riche de 84

components than the base movement on which it

à cette pièce unique.

aesthetic consistency.

composants de plus que la base sur laquelle il a été élaboré.

was built.

Art

A master of grand complications and the traditional art of skeletonization,

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

L’utilisation de la technique de l’ajourage qui se marie parfaitement au concept du tourbillon volant.

The use of the openworking technique that beautifully matches the flying tourbillon concept.

La quête sans relâche de l’innovation mécanique qui maintient Patek Philippe au sommet de son art.

The relentless quest for mechanical innovation that keeps Patek Philippe at the top of its game.

110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

111

EDITORS’ PICKS

Focus Sélection PERRELET

Focus

BRICE LECHEVALIER

RICHARD MILLE

DAVID CHOKRON

Lab Peripheral Dual Time Grande Date

Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

BOÎTE : acier, verre et fond en saphir

BOÎTE : or jaune 3N, titane et céramique TZP noire, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche à 50 m (5 bar) TAILLE : 42,7 x 50 mm, 16,25 mm d’épaisseur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre squelette RM47 à tourbillon une minute, 72 heures de marche FONCTIONS : heures et minutes CADRAN : armure de samouraï en or jaune, sculptée, gravée et peinte à la main, double face, aiguilles sabre BRACELET : uréthane avec boucle déployante SÉRIE LIMITÉE DE 75 PIÈCES PRIX : sur demande

transparent, étanche 50m TAILLE : 42 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique par masse périphérique côté cadran, calibre P421, 42 heures de marche FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, grande date à double guichet, second fuseau horaire excentré CADRAN : bleu, médaillon central rainuré, bord satiné circulaire, aiguilles bâton garnies de matière luminescente BRACELET : cuir de veau bleu embossé motif alligator, boucle déployante en acier PRIX : CHF 4’980.–

Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date

Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

CASE: 3N yellow gold, titanium and black TZP ceramic, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 50m (5 bar) SIZE: 42.7 x 50mm, 16.25mm thick MOVEMENT: mechanical hand-wound, skeletonized Caliber RM47 with one-minute tourbillon, 72-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours and minutes DIAL: yellow gold samurai armor, carved, engraved and hand-painted, double-sided, sword-type hands STRAP: urethane with folding clasp 75-PIECE LIMITED SERIES PRICE: on request

CASE: steel, transparent sapphire crystal and

caseback, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 42mm MOVEMENT: mechanical with automatic winding by peripheral rotor on the dial side, Caliber P421, 42-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, seconds, twinaperture big date, off-center second time zone DIAL: blue, central grooved medallion, circular satin-brushed edge, baton-type hands with luminescent material STRAP: blue calf leather embossed with an alligator pattern, steel folding clasp PRICE: CHF 4,980

L’énergie côté face

Energy face forward Over the last ten years or so, we have been seeing an ever-increasing number of automatic winding systems with a peripheral oscillating weight. They have however remained confined to very high-end applications and been systematically housed on the rear side of the movement. Perrelet has decided to break with these two principles in its Lab Peripheral collection, and particularly the Dual Time Big

Richard Mille’s

Le Bushido de Richard Mille

Bushido

Artistic craft models hold a special place in the Richard Mille collections. Known for its horological complications and hyper-sporty aesthetic, the brand nevertheless cultivates an extraordinarily artisanal and artistic side to its work, featuring multiple themes. The latest example is the RM 47 Tourbillon, inspired by Japanese culture, and in particular that of the samurai. The yellow gold and

Date model. The brand has long relied on its sister

ceramic case houses one of the brand’s characteris-

Depuis environ dix ans, les systèmes de remontage automatique par masse péri-

company, Soprod, which has extensive experience

Les pièces que l’on peut qualifier de métiers d’art tiennent une place parti-

tic skeleton tourbillon movements, but which lies

phérique se sont doucement multipliés. Mais ils sont restés cantonnés à des

in making movements with a dial-side oscillating

culière dans les collections Richard Mille. Connue pour ses complications et

hidden behind a pair of thematic micro-sculptures

applications très haut de gamme, et toujours logées côté fond. Perrelet a décidé de

weight. On this occasion, the device forsakes the

son hyper sportivité, la marque n’en cultive pas moins une facette artisanale et

covering it on both sides. Driven by a consum-

rompre avec ces deux principes par sa collection Lab Peripheral, et en particulier

semi-circle format meshing in the center, instead

artistique extraordinairement soignée, et aux thématiques multiples. Dernier

mate sense of precision and symbolism, as well

avec le modèle Dual Time Grande Date. La marque s’est appuyée sur sa société

switching to the fellowship of the ring, i.e. a periph-

exemple en date, la RM 47 Tourbillon est inspirée par la culture japonaise, et en

as extremely meticulous care, Richard Mille has

sœur, le motoriste Soprod, qui réalise depuis longtemps des mouvements avec

eral rotor. The latter has nonetheless remained on

particulier celle des samouraïs. Dans la boîte en or jaune et céramique, la marque

devised this miniature work of artistic craftsman-

masse côté cadran. Cette fois-ci, la masse en question délaisse le format en demi-

the dial side. The Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date

a logé un calibre à tourbillon squelette comme c’est son habitude. Il s’efface cepen-

ship depicting a suit of samurai armor notably fea-

cercle engrainant au centre, pour basculer du côté de la communauté de l’anneau,

is thus permanently animated by the circulation of

dant derrière une paire de micro sculptures thématiques qui le recouvrent sur ses

turing a kabuto, menpō and a pair of katana, i.e. a

c’est-à-dire des rotors périphériques. Mais celui-ci est resté côté cadran. La Lab

this component, half satin-brushed, half grooved

deux faces. Avec un sens de la précision et de la symbolique consommé, avec un

helmet, mask and swords. The RM 47 is brimming

Peripheral Dual Time Grande Date est donc en permanence animée par la circu-

like turbine blades, a nod to another of the brand’s

luxe de minutie, Richard Mille a imaginé cette petite œuvre d’artisanat d’art : une

with aesthetic details referring to Japanese history

lation de ce composant, moitié satiné, moitié rainuré façon pales de turbine, un

collections. Perrelet has moreover positioned it

armure de samouraï sur son présentoir, en particulier kabuto, menpō et une paire

and iconography. But above and beyond that, this

clin d’œil à une autre collection de la marque. Et d’autre part, Perrelet l’a posi-

under the CHF5,000 mark, a surprisingly affordable

de katana, soit casque, masque et sabres. La RM 47 déborde de détails esthétiques

limited edition is representative of Richard Mille’s

tionnée sous la barre des CHF 5’000.–, un créneau étonnamment abordable pour

niche for such a rare configuration, and also comple-

qui renvoient à l’histoire et à l’iconographie japonaise. Mais plus encore, cette

cultural ethos and watchmaking aesthetic. In a

une configuration aussi rare, et qui plus est complétée par un affichage GMT et

mented by a GMT display and a big date.

édition limitée est représentative de l’éthique culturelle et de l’esthétique horlo-

word, its Bushido.

une grande date.

gère de Richard Mille. En un mot, de son Bushido.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

L’initiative de basculer le remontage automatique par masse périphérique côté cadran crée une animation unique, surtout à cet excellent niveau de prix.

112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The initiative to switch the peripheral rotor-based automatic winding to the dial side, creating a unique animation, especially at this excellent price level.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY LA RÉDACTION A AIMÉ

La richesse symbolique de la réalisation et l’exécution d’un raffinement extrême de cette Richard Mille métiers d’art très masculine.

The symbolic wealth of the realization and the extremely refined execution of this intensely masculine Richard Mille artistic crafts timepiece.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

113

TEST EDITORS’ BENCHPICKS

Sélection Banc d’essai BRICE LECHEVALIER CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

TAG HEUER

Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver

pécialiste historique du chronographe, TAG Heuer est avant tout une marque de montres sportives destinées bien souvent à un usage professionnel. La nouvelle Aquaracer 1000 de ce banc d’essai en est certainement l’une des illustrations les plus par-

L’HABILLAGE :

EXTERIOR:

A l’exception du fond en acier, le boitier est en titane gr.5. Un maté-

With the exception of the steel back, the case is made of Grade 5

riau résistant, léger et bio-compatible dont TAG Heuer fut l’une des

titanium. This is a resistant, light and bio-compatible material

premières marques à en faire un usage horloger. Ses 45mm de dia-

which TAG Heuer was one of the first brands to use for watch-

mètre et son épaisseur de 15,7mm en font l’une des plus petites et

making. Its 45mm diameter and 15.7mm thickness make it one

fines montres du marché capable de résister à de telles pressions.

of the smallest and thinnest watches on the market capable of

La couronne, vissée comme il se doit, est surplombée par un très

withstanding such pressures. The crown, which is screw-locked

ingénieux protège-couronne mobile qui accompagne les mouve-

as one would expect, is topped by a very ingenious mobile crown-

ments de la couronne dès que l’on dévisse celle-ci et à chacune de

guard which accompanies the movements of the crown as soon

ses trois positions (armage, correction date et mise à l’heure). Les

as it is unscrewed and in each of its three positions (winding,

rares plongeurs à effectuer de longues plongées en saturation pour-

date adjustment and time-setting). The rare divers who engage

ront utiliser l’Aquaracer 1000, son boitier étant doté d’une soupape

in saturation diving for long periods of time will be able to use the

à hélium évitant tout danger lié à la décompression (déchassage

Aquaracer 1000, featuring a case equipped with a helium valve

ou casse de la glace). Si l’étanchéité est logiquement primordiale

that avoids any dangers relating to decompression (such as the

pour une montre de plongée, sa lisibilité l’est tout autant. Les

watch glass coming loose or breaking). While water-resistance

effets optiques de l’eau, les reflets lumineux à faible profondeur

is logically essential for a diving watch, its legibility is equally

ou l’obscurité abyssale comme la parallaxe sont autant de critères

important. The optical effects of water, light reflections at shal-

qui doivent être parfaitement domptés pour garantir une lisibilité

low depths or abyssal darkness, as well as parallax effects are all

optimale en toutes circonstances. Tout a été conçu et réalisé pour

criteria that must be perfectly mastered to guarantee optimal leg-

un résultat optimal. Le noir mat du cadran, le surdimensionne-

ibility in all circumstances. Everything has been designed and

ment des aiguilles et leur profil normalisé, la présence massive

created to ensure an optimal result. The matt black dial, the over-

de Super-LumiNova® aux endroits opportuns (index, aiguilles

sized hands and their standardized profile, the massive presence

et lunette), le choix de l’orange pour les aiguilles de minutes, de

of Super-LumiNova® in all the right places (hour-markers, hands

secondes et du secteur 15min de la lunette (couleur complémen-

and bezel), the choice of orange (a color that beautifully comple-

taire du bleu marin) et le profil de la glace saphir permettent de

ments navy blue) for the minutes and seconds hands and the

surpasser les objectifs les plus ambitieux en termes de lisibilité.

15-minute sector of the bezel, as well as the profile of the sapphire

Dernier élément spécifique, la lunette tournante permet de calcu-

crystal make it possible to surpass the most ambitious objectives

ler et de mesurer la durée de plongée, les paliers de décompression

in terms of legibility. Last but not least, the rotating bezel enables

etc. Celle de l’Aquaracer est en céramique pour préserver durable-

calculation and measurement of dive time, decompression stops

ment sa fonctionnalité et sa lisibilité. On aurait pu apprécier un

etc. The Aquaracer’s rotating bezel is made of ceramic to preserve

crantage plus défini et précis de son encliquetage mais le choix, dès

its functionality and readability. We would have appreciated a

lors très pertinent, des techniciens de TAG Heuer a probablement

more defined and precise notching on its ratchet, but the choice

été de privilégier la robustesse du système. 

of the TAG Heuer technicians was probably to focus on guaranteeing the robustness of the system. 

AG Heuer, a historical chronograph specialist, is first and foremost a brand known for producing sports watches often intended for professional use. The new Aquaracer 1000 in this test bench is certainly one of the most telling illustrations.

lantes. Dévoilée lors du dernier salon Watches and Wonders, cette

Unveiled at the latest Watches and Wonders exhibition, this

montre est conçue pour accompagner les plongeurs professionnels

watch is designed to accompany professional divers on their most

dans leurs plus périlleuses missions et dans les environnements les

perilous missions and in the most hostile environments for both

plus hostiles pour les hommes comme pour leur équipement. Bien

human beings and their equipment. Although divers today have

que les plongeurs disposent aujourd’hui d’ordinateurs de plongée

plenty of dive computers providing them with a wealth of infor-

redondants, leur fournissant pléthore d’informations, ceux-ci pré-

mation, they often prefer to add the security of a “good old-fash-

fèrent la plupart du temps ajouter la sécurité d’une « bonne vieille

ioned mechanical watch” to their equipment. We were of course

montre mécanique » à leur équipement. Nous ne pourrons évidem-

not able to test this watch in its preferred environment and our

ment pas tester cette montre dans son milieu de prédilection et nos

equipment does not permit us to carry out water-resistance tests

appareils ne nous permettent pas d’effectuer les tests d’étanchéité

beyond 10 bars (100m), but let’s see if this Aquaracer lives up to its

au-delà de 10 bars (100m), mais voyons tout de même si cette Aqua-

very demanding specifications.

racer remplit son très exigeant cahier des charges.

114 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

LE MOUVEMENT :

MOVEMENT:

Le calibre TH 30.00 qui anime cette référence est produit par

The TH30-00 caliber powering this reference is produced by Kenissi.

Kenissi. Cette manufacture a été créée par Tudor afin de disposer

This Manufacture was created by Tudor in order for the latter to have

de sa propre capacité industrielle. L’intelligence du concept de

own industrial capacity. The intelligence of the concept behind this

cette entité est de s’ouvrir aux marques tierces au travers de véri-

entity is its openness to third-party brands through genuine indus-

tables partenariats industriels. Les synergies de développement et

trial partnerships. The development synergies and increased pro-

les volumes de production accrus permettent ainsi d’augmenter la

duction volumes thus serve to increase reliability, optimize costs

LES TESTS :

TESTS:

fiabilité, d’optimiser les coûts et, à plus long terme, de garantir

and, in the longer term, guarantee the supply of materials in a sus-

Nous n’avons certes pas pu procéder aux tests d’étanchéité dans

Although we were not able to carry out water-resistance tests in our

l’approvisionnement de fournitures de façon durable et pérenne,

tainable and lasting manner – all of which is reminiscent of the

notre atelier au-delà des 10 bars (réussis avec succès). Aucun doute

workshop beyond 10 bar – a level confirmed by our controls – there

ce qui n’est pas sans rappeler l’incroyable longévité et le succès des

incredible longevity and success of the 2892 or 7750 calibers.

toutefois à ce sujet. Les montres de plongée doivent répondre à

is no doubt about the credibility of the avowed 100-bar claim. Div-

This automatic caliber drives a central display of the hours,

des normes nationales et internationales strictes et sont testées

ing watches must meet strict national and international standards

Ce calibre automatique affiche heures, minutes et secondes au

minutes and seconds, as well as a date indication at 6 o’clock.

par les marques et par des organes indépendants et/ou gouverne-

and are tested by independent and/or governmental bodies in addi-

centre ainsi que le quantième lisible ici à 6H. Rien de révolution-

There is nothing revolutionary in its construction which is based

mentaux. Absorber durablement 100 bars de pression requiert une

tion to the brands. Durably absorbing 100-bar pressure requires

naire dans sa conception qui repose sur des principes connus, fiables

on known, reliable and proven principles. It is certainly the most

solidité absolue. Rares sont les montres capables d’une telle per-

absolute solidity. Few watches are capable of such a level of per-

et éprouvés. Il s’agit là certainement du choix le plus pertinent

appropriate choice when it comes to powering a sports watch

formance à proposer de si « raisonnables » dimensions et une ergo-

formance while featuring such “reasonable” dimensions and such

lorsqu’il est question d’animer une montre sportive destinée aux

intended for professionals. Oscillating at a frequency of 4Hz and

nomie si maîtrisée. La lunette est facile à manipuler avec d’épais

well-mastered ergonomics. The bezel is easy to handle with thick

professionnels. Oscillant à 4Hz pour une autonomie de 70 heures,

endowed with a 70-hour power reserve, this movement meets

gants et son encliquetage suffisamment fort pour limiter toute

gloves and its ratchet is strong enough to limit any accidental rota-

ce mouvement répond aux exigences contemporaines et tout laisse

contemporary requirements and it is very likely to remain in

rotation accidentelle. La boucle du bracelet dispose d’une allaise

tion. The buckle of the strap has a 16mm slot to wear the Aquaracer

augurer qu’il soit encore en production dans quelques décennies.

production for several decades. While free of any excessive zeal

de 16mm pour porter son Aquaracer directement au poignet ou sur

directly on the wrist or over a thick diving suit. Water-resistance,

Sans excès de zèle contre-productif, les finitions sont parfaites pour

that might have been counter-productive, the finishing is per-

une épaisse combinaison. Etanchéité, lisibilité, fiabilité et pré-

legibility, reliability and precision are clearly well above require-

une montre de sport et ne compromettent ni la maîtrise du coût,

fect for a sports watch and does not compromise on cost control,

cision sont clairement bien au-delà des exigences et confèrent à

ments and give this watch a quality-price ratio that undeniably

ni la robustesse ni la fiabilité et moins encore la précision puisque

robustness, reliability – and definitely not on precision, since this

cette montre un rapport qualité-prix qui la place indéniablement

place it in the league of top-ranked models.

cette Aquaracer est certifiée chronomètre !

Aquaracer is chronometer certified!

au sommet du tableau d’honneur.

calibres 2892 ou 7750.

POSITIONS MESURES / MEASUREMENTS 0H : Plein Armage

Marche (sec/j) / Rate (sec/day)

4.8

2.4

1.8

2.3

3.4

0Hrs: Fully wound

Amplitude / Amplitude

281

277

255

257

252

261

24H après

Marche (sec/j) / Rate (sec/day)

3.1

2.3

-0.8

-1.4

-1.3

0.3

24Hrs later

Amplitude / Amplitude

268

262

230

222

223

220

Les titres de Professional et de Superdiver ne

The titles Professional and Superdiver are well-

sont pas galvaudés. Cette montre trouvera rapide-

deserved. This watch will rapidly command the trust

ment la confiance des plongeurs professionnels les

of the most seasoned professional divers. Objectively,

plus aguerris. On ne peut objectivement que saluer

one cannot but salute a model embodying absolute

une réussite absolue. D’autant plus qu’avec son ergo-

success. Especially since, given its ergonomic feel and

nomie et son prix, cette montre est aussi celle de toute personne en quête d’une fiabilité et d’une robustesse à

116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

4.5

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Horloger | Watchmaker

its pricing, this is also a watch for anyone seeking reliability and robustness, whether or not they are divers.

toute épreuve que l’on soit plongeur ou non. L’Aquaracer Professional

The Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver achieves an extremely

1000 Superdiver réussit un très rare sans faute avec la meilleure men-

rare flawless degree performance corresponding to the highest

tion. On lui prédit un bel avenir, une très longue vie, et elle pourrait

results. We predict a bright future and a very long life for what could

bien devenir l’une des premières icônes horlogères de cette décennie.

well become one of the first watchmaking icons of this decade.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

117

ICON EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection Icône MARIE DE PIMODAN BRICE LECHEVALIER

La montre Happy Sport 33 mm se décline en or éthique rose 18 carats avec une lunette sertie de diamants. The Happy Sport 33mm watch is interpreted in an ethical 18-carat rose gold version with a diamond-set bezel.

Happy Sport Liberté, joie de vivre Freedom, joie de vivre et sportivité ! and sportiness! Chopard célébrera les 30 ans de la collection Happy Sport l’année prochaine. Retour sur l’histoire de cette montre solaire imaginée par Caroline Scheufele, coprésidente et directrice artistique de Chopard.

Chopard will celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Happy Sport collection next year. A look back at the story of this watch with a resolutely sunny disposition imagined by Chopard Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele.

« C'est une montre qui, d’une certaine manière, traverse les générations. Je pense que c’est ainsi que naissent les icônes : lorsque quelque chose est transmis de la grand-mère à la mère puis à la fille. Je n’avais aucune certitude, lorsque je l’ai conçue, que ce serait le cas. » CAROLINE SCHEUFELE

ersonne n’y croyait. Il faut dire que l’idée paraissait sacrément audacieuse et allait à contre-courant des tendances de l’époque. « L’ensemble de l'équipe du développement horloger, et même mes parents ne cachaient pas leur scepticisme

“In a way, it’s a watch that crosses generations. I think that's how icons are born: when something is passed from grandmother to mother to daughter. I could not be certain when I designed it that this would be the case.” CAROLINE SCHEUFELE

o one believed in it, and admittedly the idea seemed pretty daring and ran entirely counter to the trends of the time. “The entire watch development team, and even my parents, were very sceptical about the project”, recalls Caro-

sur le projet, se souvient Caroline Scheufele. Ils pensaient que

line Scheufele. “They thought it was a crazy idea to put diamonds

c'était une idée folle de mettre des diamants dans un boîtier en

in a steel case when these gems had always been associated with

acier alors que les diamants étaient depuis toujours associés à l’or

gold or platinum.”

ou au platine. »

That was back in 1993 and Caroline Scheufele had just imag-

Nous sommes en 1993 et Caroline Scheufele vient d’imaginer la

ined the Happy Sport watch by picking up the concept of danc-

montre Happy Sport en reprenant à son compte le concept des dia-

ing diamonds launched in 1976 by her parents under the name

mants mobiles lancé en 1976 par ses parents sous le nom de Happy

Happy Diamonds – but with two key differences. Firstly, Happy

Diamonds. A deux différences près : Happy Sport est une montre

Sport is a steel watch and secondly, rather than having diamonds

en acier et, plutôt que de faire danser des diamants libres autour

dance freely around the watch as was the case with the Happy

de la montre comme c’était le cas avec les Happy Diamonds, elle

Diamonds, she decided to place them between two sapphire crys-

décide de les placer entre deux verres au-dessus du cadran. « Impo-

tals on the top of the dial. “Asserting my idea was a struggle and

ser mon idée a été un combat et la production de la montre nous a

production of the watch presented us with yet more challenges.

encore soumis à d’autres défis. Tout le monde pensait que j'étais

Everyone thought I had gone mad, but I am above all a very per-

devenue folle, mais je suis surtout une personne très persévérante,

sistent person, who doesn’t take ‘no for an answer.” Almost 30

qui considère que ‘non’ n’est pas une réponse. » Presque trente ans

years later, the tenacity of Chopard's Co-President and Artistic

plus tard, la ténacité de la coprésidente et directrice artistique

Director has overcome all internal reluctance: the Happy Sport

de Chopard aura eu raison de toutes les réticences internes : la

watch has become an essential pillar of Chopard, a free-spirited

montre Happy Sport s’est érigée comme un pilier incontournable

icon whose joyful and sporty temperament has helped demystify

de Chopard, une icône à l’esprit libre qui, par son tempérament

the jewelry watch. 

joyeux et sportif, a contribué à démystifier la montre-bijou. 

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

En presque trois décennies, la collection Happy

In almost three decades, the Happy Sport col-

Sport a décliné ses multiples facettes sans jamais se

lection has displayed its multiple facets without

départir de son tempérament sport-chic. Parmi les

ever losing its sporty-chic temperament. The most

modèles les plus marquants, on retiendra une version

striking models include an entirely gemset ver-

entièrement joaillière, Happy Sport Diamantissimo,

sion, Happy Sport Diamantissimo, presented in

présentée en 2013 pour les vingt ans de la collection,

2013 for the 20th anniversary of the collection; along

des versions plus techniques intégrant un tourbil-

with more technical versions incorporating a tour-

lon ou un chronographe, à l’image du Happy Sport

billon or a chronograph, such as the Happy Sport

Chrono All Black ou du Happy Sport Chrono en or

Chrono All Black or the Happy Sport Chrono in

éthique rose lancé cette année. Versatile, la montre

ethical rose gold launched this year. The eminently

s’est aussi dévoilée dans diverses tenues d’apparat :

versatile watch has also been unveiled in various

Happy Snowflakes pour les sports d’hiver, Happy

spectacular interpretations: Happy Snowflakes for

Fish et Happy Ocean pour la plage, Happy Palm pour

winter sports, Happy Fish and Happy Ocean for the

le festival de Cannes. Autant de visages différents

beach, Happy Palm for the Cannes Film Festivals.

pour cette montre versatile qui, dans toutes les situa-

A wealth of different faces for this multi-facetted

tions, célèbre joyeusement le temps qui passe. Avec

and adaptable watch that joyfully celebrates the

légèreté et en toute liberté !

passing of time in every situation – with a lighthearted, entirely free-spirited attitude!

L’ANECDOTE

« Lorsque j'ai inventé la montre Happy Sport, c'est avant tout parce que je faisais moi-même beaucoup de sport, rappelle Caroline Scheufele. C'est pourquoi le mot ‘sport’ a été associé à son nom. A l’époque, nous avions chez Chopard quelques montres décontractées et sportives pour l’été, mais je voulais d’une création qui aille plus loin que ce que nous proposions jusqu’alors. Une montre qui ait à la fois un peu d'éclat et que l'on puisse porter 24 heures sur 24, pour aller nager, faire du ski nautique, jouer au tennis, faire du shopping, emmener les enfants à l'école, aller au bureau ou se rendre à un cocktail, de sorte que si vous n'aviez pas le temps de vous changer, vous étiez déjà un peu habillée grâce à ces petits diamants qui dansent toute la journée sur votre poignet. Pour moi, c'était cela être un Esprit Libre. » INSIDE STORY

“When I invented the Happy Sport watch, it was primarily because I was involved in a lot of sport myself”, says Caroline Scheufele. “That’s why the word ‘sport’ was associated with its name. At the time, Chopard had a few casual and sporty watches for the summer, but I wanted a creation that went further than what we had been offering up until then. A watch that had both a little bit of sparkle and that you could wear 24 hours a day, to swim or go water skiing, play tennis, do some shopping, take the kids to school, spend some time in the office and move right on to a cocktail party. The whole idea was that if you didn't have time to change, you were already a little bit dressed up with these little diamonds dancing on your wrist all day long. To me, that was what being free-spirited meant.

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12th ART PICKS EDITORS’

e Sélection 12 Art BRICE LECHEVALIER

The Millennium Watch Book Le 3e volume en mode plongée The third volume in diving mode

evant le succès du livre The Millennium Watch Book (« L’essentiel sur l’horlogerie depuis l’an 2000 ») paru en 2020, nous avons décidé de créer la collection The Millennium Watch Book : chaque année un

nouveau livre thématique jusqu’en 2030, pour tout comprendre et savoir sur les montres contemporaines dans un domaine bien précis. En 2021, année du 220e anniversaire de l’invention du tourbillon, notre maison d’édition a donc publié The Millennium Watch Book Tourbillons, 200 pages généreusement illustrées et rédigées par une douzaine de spécialistes sur ce sujet, qui fait vibrer les passionnés autant que les horlogers des petites et grandes marques. Notre comité de rédaction a notamment sélectionné les 50 montres à tourbillon lancées au troisième millénaire qu’il faut considérer dans sa collection. Nous venons de répéter cet exercice avec les 50 montres de plongée (mécaniques) les plus intéressantes du marché pour notre troisième tome.

ollowing the success of The Millennium Watch Book (“The essentials of watchmaking since the year 2000”) published in 2020, we decided to create The Millennium Watch Book collection: each year a new book until 2030, focused on specific themes aimed at helping readers understand and know everything about contemporary watches in a

given field. In 2021, the year of the 220th anniversary of the invention of the tourbillon, Disponible en anglais et français, le premier chapitre de la saga The Millennium Watch Book condense tout ce qu’il faut savoir sur l’horlogerie du troisième millénaire, incontournable dans une bonne bibliothèque. Available in English and French, the first chapter of The Millennium Watch Book saga is a distilled expression of everything worth knowing about third-millennium watchmaking and a must-have for any good library.

122 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

we published The Millennium Watch Book Tourbillons featuring 200 generously illustrated pages written by a dozen specialists on this subject, which is delighting enthusiasts as well as watchmakers of small and large brands. Our editorial committee selected the 50 tourbillon watches launched in the third millennium that should be considered in any good collection. We are repeating this exercise for the 50 most worthwhile (mechanical) diving watches on the market to be featured in our third volume.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

Les deux premiers tomes de la collection sont disponibles immédiatement sur THE-WATCH-BOOK.COM ainsi que le troisième au prix avantageux de souscription. The first two volumes of the collection are available immediately via THE-WATCH-BOOK.COM, while the third can be pre-ordered at a favorable subscription rate.

Tome 2022 The 2022 volume

124 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Collection complète en 2030 Collection to be completed by 2030

En 2022, c’est donc le thème de la montre de

In 2022, it is therefore the theme of the diving

plongée que nous abordons en profondeur dans The

watch that we address in depth in The Millennium Watch

Millennium Watch Book, avec la même approche

Book, with the same “entertaining” approach as the

« entertaining » que les précédents : diversité des

previous ones: a diversity of editorial approaches

approches rédactionnelles pour varier les plaisirs,

to maintain pleasurable variety; rigorous informa-

rigueur de l’information mais sans se

tion yet without an overly intellectual

prendre au sérieux, photos en grand

approach; along with large-size pho-

format pour en prendre plein la vue.

tos worth admiring at length.

Le cadeau idéal pour les amoureux

The ideal gift for lovers of beautiful

de belles montres et beaux livres, à

watches and books, to be ordered now

commander à prix de souscription

at subscription prices and slated for

dès maintenant pour une parution

publication at the end of October.

fin octobre.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 125

EDITORS’ WRIST STORIES PICKS

Sélection Ils aiment BRICE LECHEVALIER MARIE DE PIMODAN

La montre rêvée

des experts

The experts’ dream watch La question est simple : quelle est la montre de vos rêves ? Six acteurs influents de l’univers horloger nous ont confié le nom de celle qu’ils aspirent à voir un jour à leur poignet.

The question is simple: what is your dream watch? Six influential players in the watchmaking world told us which one they would like to see on their wrist one day.

Philipp Man

Hind Seddiqi

Directrice Générale Dubai Watch Week Director General of Dubai Watch Week « Tout le monde connaît mon amour pour le haut artisanat et ma complication préférée, la répétition minutes. Il n’est

donc pas surprenant que la montre de mes rêves fasse partie de la collection Rare Handcrafts de Patek Philippe, la Réf. 7000/50R010 Hirondelles en Vol qui comprend ces deux éléments. Chaque répétition minutes est personnellement testée et vérifiée par Thierry Stern, une tradition transmise de génération en génération au sein de la famille, pour s’assurer que la sonnerie ait bien le « son Patek ». La passion et l’engagement envers la préservation de cette tradition, ainsi que l'incroyable technique d’émaillage de ce garde-temps sont ce que j’admire dans ce chef-d’œuvre de haute horlogerie. »

Co-fondateur Chronext Co-founder Chronext “Everyone knows of my love for exquisite handcrafts and my favourite « Je suis un grand fan de montres vintage ! La montre de mes rêves est la

movement, the minute repeater. So, it’s no surprise that my dream watch is

Rolex Daytona référence 6265 en or. Environ 2'000 pièces ont été produites

from the Rare Handcrafts collection of Patek Philippe, 7000/50R-010 Swallows

en or entre 1971 et 1988. De plus, la référence 6265 était la dernière à être

in Flight and includes both these elements. Each minute repeater is personally

équipée d’un mouvement à remontage manuel, en plus de la référence 6263.

tested and checked by Mr. Thierry Stern, a tradition passed on by generations

La couleur de l’or apporte une certaine extravagance mais cet effet est com-

of the Stern family, to ensure the chiming has the “Patek Sound”. The passion

pensé par un diamètre de seulement 37 mm et des proportions élégantes. La

and commitment towards preserving this tradition, as well as the incredible

Daytona 6265 est une montre dont l’aspect statutaire est subtilement atténué

enamelling technique on this timepiece, are what I admire about this master-

par son look vintage. »

piece of Haute Horlogerie.”

“I am a big fan of vintage watches! My dream watch is the Rolex Daytona with the reference 6265 in gold. Only about 2,000 of them were produced in gold between 1971 and 1988. Also, the 6265 was the last one with a manual winding movement besides the reference 6263. The gold color brings

Irina Ciobanu

Fondateur Ladies Watch Club Founder, Ladies Watch Club

a certain extravagance, but the 37mm diameter and elegant proportions

“There are many watches that I would love to own but

somewhat compensate for that effect. The 6265 can be worn on the wrist

my personal favorite is probably the stunning and iconic

as a statement, which is at the same time an understatement thanks to

Reverso Classic Duetto from the watchmaker’s watch-

the vintage look.”

maker: Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Reverso Duetto Medium stays not only in the clas-

Gustavo Kuri

Photographe et collectionneur Photographer and collector

sic look of the collection but also in the mechanical gimmick present – a watch with two faces fitted with an automatic movement. All this in a relatively small case size fitted with two rows of diamonds.”

« J'ai toujours été fasciné par les voyages dans l'espace et les choses qui dépassent les limites de l’imagination. J’ai su au premier regard que la MB&F HM6 Space Pirate était la montre de mes rêves. Son boîtier biomorphique, ses turbines sphériques, le tourbillon volant avec son bouclier de protection et, bien sûr, la manière dont elle indique l’heure font que ce garde-temps ne ressemble à rien de ce que nous avons vu auparavant. Comme si cela venait d'un autre monde. » “I’ve always been fascinated by space travel and out-worldly things. I knew the MB&F HM6 Space Pirate was my dream watch since the moment I saw it. Its biomorphic case, spherical turbines, the flying tourbillon with its protective shield and of course the way of telling time make this timepiece look like nothing we’ve seen before… Like it came from another world.”

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Best of Instagram

Sélection

AISHA JIBRIN

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Un collectionneur, un CEO, un détaillant et un influenceur : 4 comptes qui comptent à suivre de toute urgence !

Eunyoung Pyoung

A collection, a CEO, a retailer and an influencer: four accounts that count worth rushing to follow!

Rédactrice en chef GMT Corée GMT Korea Editor-in-Chief

@antonio.calce

@seddiqi_uae

« Ce garde-temps m'a captivée dès que je l'ai passé à mon poignet : il s’agit de la Little Lange

3878 posts

1 phases de lune. Depuis lors, le souvenir de cette montre est resté gravé dans ma mémoire.

87.7K followers

99 posts

166 following

5,384 followers

@ewc.ae 590 following

710 posts

42.8K followers

84following

Il va sans dire que les montres A. Lange & Söhne sont totalement fiables, avec des designs sophistiqués et une ingénierie sans faille. Le cadran représente magnifiquement le ciel nocturne brodé d’étoiles, entre magie et poésie. La subtilité des étoiles scintillantes, loin de me distraire, me procure en quelque sorte un sentiment de calme et de paix. Si vous portez ce garde-temps, je suis sûre que vous aurez comme moi l’impression de voyager parmi les étoiles de la galaxie. » “A timepiece that captivated me the moment I put it on my wrist was the Little Lange 1 Moonphase. Since then, the image of this watch has remained vividly etched in my memory. It goes without saying that A. Lange & Söhne watches are completely reliable, featuring sophisticated designs and flawless engineering. The dial beautifully depicts the night sky embroidered with stars, somehow magically poetic. The subtlety of the twinkling stars, far from

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

Antonio Calce

Emirates Watch Club

distracting, somehow gives me a calm, peaceful feeling. If you wear this time-

Retailer

CEO Greubel Forsey

Collector

piece, I'm sure you will feel just like I do wearing one on my wrist, as if you were traveling among the stars of the galaxy.”

Suzanne Wong

What’s to love? This is the account of a luxury watch and accessories retailer that has been ‘curating time’ since 1950 with the world’s best brands in its portfolio. Why follow ? This is your one stop shop for all your favorite timepieces from your favorite brands. This page is designed to make your luxury watch shopping easier.

What’s to love? This CEO engages you with the art of watchmaking innovation. On this page, the man at the helm of affairs at Greubel Forsey offers you insight into the identity of the brand.. Why follow ? Follow for updates on Greubel Forsey, the brand, innovation and lifestyle.

What’s to love? This is the official page of the emirates club for watches where enthusiasts unite in shared passion.. Why follow ? Here, you have access to being a part of a watch community in the emirates and to keep track of it’s activities..

Rédactrice en chef WorldTempus WorldTempus Editor-in-chief « Je suis toujours un peu bouche-bée à chaque fois qu'on m’interroge sur la montre de mes rêves car il y a quelque chose d’ultime dans cette question. Il est sous-entendu que votre voyage horloger se termine une fois que vous avez acquis cette montre sacrée. Mais ce n’est jamais le cas, n’est-ce pas ? Il y a toujours une autre montre après celle-là. Je peux au moins dire que la Royal Oak Jumbo en or

@ 7mdsk

jaune avec cadran champagne d’Audemars Piguet est la montre qui s’est retrou-

174 posts

vée sur ma « wishlist » le plus régulièrement au cours des dix dernières années.

14.2k 714 follwers following

J’adore l’idée d’avoir la version entièrement en or d’une montre réputée pour avoir initié l’engouement pour les montres de sport en acier. Il y a eu quelques déclinaisons de la Royal Oak Jumbo en or jaune – un jour, je trouverai celle qui me convient. » “I’m always slightly tongue-tied whenever I’m asked about the watch of my dreams, because there’s such an air of finality and ultimacy about it. It’s implied that your watch journey ends once you acquire this hallowed timepiece, and that’s never the case, is it? There’s always another watch after that one. I can at least say that the watch that’s been on my wishlist the most consistently over the last 10 years is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

7MD Influencer

What’s to love? Think luxury lifestyle in the UAE, think 7MD. Take a tour on this page to live vicariously through a watch, fast cars and all round lifestyle influencer. Why follow ? Follow this page for your guide to living your best life and documenting every step of it!

Jumbo in yellow gold with champagne dial. I love the idea of having the full-gold version of a watch that is renowned for jumpstarting the steel sports watch craze. There have been a few incarnations of the yellow-gold Royal Oak Jumbo – someday I’ll find the one that’s right for me.”

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Photo shoot Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER DENIS HAYOUN / FABRICE RABHI

E I

n complément de notre dossier « Disruptif », nous avons confié une sélection de montres au photographe Denis Hayoun et au réalisateur Fabrice Rabhi qui ont conçu un shooting photo et d’animation sur ce thème. Résultat détonnant dans ces pages et en digital sur l’Instagram de GMT et le site de WorldTempus.

n addition to our “Disruptive” feature, we entrusted a selection of watches to photographer Denis Hayoun and creative director Fabrice Rabhi, who did a photo shoot and animation on this theme. The explosive result is visible here in print as well as in digital form on GMT’s Instagram account and the WorldTempus website.

CYRUS

Klepcys Dice Double Independent Chronograph avec boîtier en titane DLC noir, mouvement automatique et bracelet en Cordura rouge. CYRUS

Klepcys Dice Double Independent Chronograph with black DLC-treated titanium case, self-winding movement and red Cordura strap.

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131

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

HUBLOT

Big Bang Integral Ceramic avec boîtier en céramique bleue polie et satinée, mouvement chronographe automatique et bracelet en céramique. HUBLOT

Big Bang Integral Ceramic with polished and satin-brushed blue ceramic case, self-winding chornograph movement and ceramic bracelet.

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JACOB & CO.

Bugatti Chiron Sapphire Crystal avec boîtier en saphir, mouvement tourbillon manuel et bracelet en caoutchouc blanc. JACOB & CO.

Bugatti Chiron Sapphire Crystal with sapphire case, manual-winding tourbillon movement and white rubber strap.

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133

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

CORUM

Bubble X Ray avec boîtier en acier, mouvement automatique et bracelet synthétique avec doublure caoutchouc. CORUM

Bubble X Ray with steel case, self-winding movement and rubber-lined synthetic alligator-like strap.

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CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon avec boîtier en acier, mouvement tourbillon automatique et bracelet en acier. CHOPARD

Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon with steel case, selfwinding tourbillon movement and steel bracelet.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

ARTYA

Purity Tourbillon avec boîtier en saphir, mouvement tourbillon et bracelet en cuir d’alligator noir. ARTYA

Purity Tourbillon with sapphire case, tourbillon movement and black alligator leather strap.

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H. MOSER & CIE.

Endeavour Center Seconds Concept Lime Green avec boîtier en acier poli, mouvement automatique et bracelet en cuir de koudou gris.

H. MOSER & CIE.

Endeavour Center Seconds Concept Lime Green with polished steel case, self-winding movement and gray kudu leather strap.

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137

EDITORS’ PICKS

A DV E RTOR I A L

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

Cyrus

Klepcys Dice Racing

The Innovative Double Independent Chronograph Evolution Joins The “Klepcys Dice” Family A true technical innovation, KLEPCYS DICE – first introduced by the Swiss Manufacture Cyrus Genève in summer 2021 - marks a new milestone in the chronograph complication in the 21st century. It was, in fact, the first wristwatch on the market to be equipped with two chronographs capable of functioning totally independently of each other, or in synchrony. As the name suggests DICE is the acronym for DOUBLE INDEPENDENT CHRONOGRAPH EVOLUTION; a full-fledged revolution on the watchmaking scene which, for the very first time, sees two separate chronographic movements assembled in a single case.  Its iconic cushion-shaped case, water resistant to 10 Atm, is

KLEPCYS DICE RACING is equipped with the Manufacture’s

KLEPCYS DICE RACING, brainchild of master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, has a

42 mm in diameter , and is available in polished/brushed grade-5

CYR718 automatic calibre which beats at 28,800 vibrations/hour,

revamped look and comes in two case variants , in a limited edition of just 15 pieces

titanium, or black DLC-coated titanium which, for this latest ad-

offering a 60-hour power reserve when fully charged with just

each. Inspired by sporting competitions, and especially by motor racing, this new mo-

dition, has been teamed with an all-new black matt carbon fiber

one barrel. Comprising no less than 443 parts, of which 218 for the

del experiments with an innovative material the Maison has never used before: carbon

bezel. As the carbon fibre is first layered and then machined, the

double independent chronograph, it is housed in a case which is

fiber. Its highly resistant nature, along with its characteristic lightness, thermal insu-

surface of each bezel will be different from the other, thus giving

just 16.5 mm thick: no mean feat when we remember it houses

lation and flame resistance, ensure carbon fiber is an appealing choice. 

each piece of KLEPCYS DICE RACING its uniqueness.

not one but two mainplates, treated with a black PVD and microbeaded finish, for the two chronograph modules.

The open-worked dial features a pleasing three-dimensional architecture that allows to delve into the very heart of this innova-

KLEPCYS DICE RACING offers an unhindered view of its specta-

tive mechanism designed and crafted at the Cyrus Manufacture.

cular mechanics. So the sapphire crystal case-back was a must

The detailing is picked out in red and electric blue, making it

to allow the sunray-decorated bridges to be admired. The bridges

easier to read off the chronograph functions. The column wheels,

alternate a polished/satin effect, and are coated with an anthra-

the hands of the chrono counter at 3, the central second hands,

cite-grey NAC finish which is also applied to the oscillating mass.

the minutes on the flange and the monopusher crowns for enga-

The single-block rotor is open-worked and decorated with a su-

ging the two separate chronographs can thus be seen at a glance.

nray design; the centre of the rotor, engraved with the motto “The

Both the chrono hands and the second hands are mirrored, with

Conquest of Innovation”, is embellished with the CYRUS helix in

the latter resetting to 12 (red) and 6 (blue).

18k 4N gold. This new double independent chronograph is presented with a

138 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The small seconds counter in smoked sapphire crystal is set at

bright red Cordura fabric strap and a titanium folding clasp to

9 and features the original three-armed helix recalling the Mai-

match the case, and is delivered with an additional strap in soft

son’s logo with a luminescent tip.

black rubber.

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EDITORS’ 24 HOURS PICKS IN THE LIFE OF…

Sélection 24 heures dans la vie de… BRICE LECHEVALIER LOUIS-OLIVIER MAURY

Christian Le Squer Chef du restaurant Le Cinq, à Paris

Executive Chef, Le Cinq restaurant in Paris Deux décennies déjà qu’il nous fait voyager dans la galaxie la plus hautement étoilée. Le Chef du Cinq, restaurant du Four Seasons Hôtel George V à Paris, nous emmène cette fois dans ses bagages pour nous raconter une journée culinaire extraordinaire et atypique sur l’île privée de Velaa, dans l’archipel des Maldives.

For two decades now, he has been embarking us on a starstudded galactic voyage. This time, the Executive Chef of Le Cinq, a restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, takes us with him on an extraordinary and atypical culinary journey to the private island of Velaa, in the Maldives archipelago.

PAS DE HASARD

NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE

« Il y a donc des étapes préalables qu’il faut agencer

“There are therefore preliminary stages that must be

avec rigueur et une fois sur place un repérage et une

rigorously planned and once on site, you need to do

prise de marques dès l’arrivée pour toujours viser

some scouting and get your bearings as soon as you

la perfection. Sur une île en quasi autarcie, il faut

arrive so as to aim for consistent perfection. On an

d’autant plus être attentif à tous les détails. Dès le

island that is almost self-sufficient, you have to be

matin, aux alentours de 10 h, je suis donc en action

even more attentive to every detail. Every morning

pour m’imprégner du lieu, une cristallisation du

from about 10 am, I am in action to immerse myself

moment, rien ne doit être laissé au hasard, je garde

in the place, to crystallize the moment, as nothing

toujours la même exigence mais peut-être est-elle

must be left to chance. I maintain the same high

plus compressée dans le temps. D’ailleurs, ce der-

standards but perhaps everything has to be a bit

nier ne passe-t-il pas plus vite dans une cuisine sous

more compressed timewise. And doesn’t time actu-

les tropiques ? »

ally pass more quickly in a kitchen in the tropics?”

ANTICIPER POUR ÊTRE JUSTE

THINKING AHEAD TO GET IT RIGHT

« Pour l’anecdote, j’ai dû amener dans mes valises

“I had to bring with me certain ingredients that were

certains ingrédients qu’il était impossible de com-

impossible to order beforehand. That’s all part of this

mander au préalable. Cela fait partie de ce type

type of epicurean mission where we have to think

BAIGNADE SPORTIVE

SPORTS SWIMMING

de mission épicurienne ponctuelle où, encore une

ahead, to ensure that little extra something enabling

« Que cela soit dans mon restaurant Le Cinq ou, cette fois, en dépla-

“Whether in my Le Cinq restaurant or when abroad as I am at the

fois, il faut anticiper, assurer ce petit plus qui per-

the unique culinary journey our customers are seek-

cement, je me lève toujours tôt et ce encore plus quand l’océan est à

moment, I always get up early, and even more so when the ocean

met ce voyage unique des papilles que recherchent

ing. Around noon, we test our dishes to make sure

mes pieds. Je suis breton et l’eau est un peu ma deuxième maison,

is at my feet. Iʹm from Brittany and water is my second home, my

nos clients. Vers midi nous faisons un « testing »

that the flavors and taste are right. Presentation

ma source de jouvence (sourire). Je démarre donc par une baignade

fountain of youth (smile). So I start with a one-kilometer morn-

de nos plats pour nous assurer de la justesse des

on the plate is of course also very important. This

matinale sportive d’un kilomètre pour me mettre en jambes et être

ing swim to gear up for serving a stunning dinner in this fabu-

saveurs, du goût. Bien sûr, le dressage a aussi son

enables us to make adjustments if necessary and to

d’attaque pour un dîner d’anthologie dans ce lieu paradisiaque. »

lous setting.”

importance. Cela nous permet, si nécessaire, des

obtain a perfect result at the desired moment.”

ajustements. Et d’obtenir, in fine, un résultat par-

UNE QUESTION D’ALCHIMIE

A MATTER OF CHEMISTRY

« Il est important de comprendre que travailler hors de son restau-

“It is important to understand that working outside of oneʹs

rant demande une dynamique différente, de la méthodologie, de

own restaurant calls for a different dynamic, methodology and

la préparation en amont. Mes plats demandent une alchimie pré-

prior preparation. My dishes require a precise alchemy, carefully

cise, des ingrédients choisis, millimétrés mais aussi dans le cas

selected ingredients, but also in this case a capacity to adapt at

présent, une capacité d’adaptation à chaque instant et l’apprécia-

any time and to appreciate the surrounding produce and seasons.

tion des denrées environnantes, et de saison. Tout est important ;

Everything is important: climate, heat, humidity, kitchen layout,

climat, chaleur, humidité, disposition de la cuisine, connaissance

knowledge of my new brigade and the team in the dining room,

de ma nouvelle brigade, de l’équipe en salle, ainsi que la cohésion

as well as a sense of unity with the island Chef Gaushan De Silva

THE CHEF’S WATCHES

avec le Chef insulaire, Gaushan De Silva, pour une partition à

for a duet orchestrated without false notes, for diners’ pleasure. It

quatre mains, orchestrée sans fausses notes, pour le plaisir. Il faut

is also necessary to know the dining room, its layout, as well as to

aussi connaitre la salle, sa disposition, faire face aux allergies des

cope with guests’ allergies or dietary food constraints, which are

convives ou leurs contraintes alimentaires, c’est aussi là le défi. »

all part of the challenge.”

Christian Le Squer collaborates with a number of watch brands, including Piaget, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre to name but a few. On his wrist on the island of Velaa is a steel Rolex Submariner Date, a diving watch that suits him: rugged, accurate, with a timeless look and easy to wear on all occasions. His second timepiece is dressy yet discreet: a Patek Philippe Calatrava in white gold that he describes as a “second skin”. Next up? An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm in pink gold for the 20th anniversary of his three Michelin stars.

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fait à l’instant T. »

LES MONTRES DU CHEF

Le Chef Christian Le Squer collabore avec de nombreuses marques horlogères comme Piaget, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre pour ne citer qu’elles. A son poignet sur l’île de Velaa, une Rolex Submariner Date en acier, une montre de plongée qui lui correspond : endurante, précise, au look intemporel et facile à porter dans toutes les occasions. Son deuxième garde-temps est habillé, discret : une Patek Philippe Calatrava en or blanc qu’il qualifie de « seconde peau ». La prochaine ? Une Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41 mm en or rose pour les vingt ans de ses trois étoiles.

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EDITORS’ CITIES & PLACES PICKS

Sélection Dubai BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

Burj Khalifa

Dubai Aquarium

Jumeirah Mosque

Dubai’s landmark building and major tourist attraction is the Burj

One of the city’s top tourist attractions, the Dubai Aquarium

Jumeirah Mosque is considered by many to be the most beautiful of

Khalifa, which at 829.8 meters is the tallest building in the world

houses 140 species of sea life in the huge suspended tank on the

and the most famous of the city’s points of interest.

ground floor of the Dubai Mall.

For most visitors, a trip to the observation deck on the 124th floor

Although there is free viewing from the mall, the highlight of

here is a must-do while in the city. The views across the city skyline

a visit here is entering the Underwater Zoo, with its three-story

Mall of the Emirates is one of the city’s most famous malls, with

This stone structure is built in the medieval Fatimid tradition, with

from this bird’s-eye perspective are simply staggering.

high, 270-degree views along the length of the glass-panel tun-

the spectacular (and surreal) Ski Dubai facility inside.

two minarets that display the subtle details in the stonework. It is

The slick observation deck experience includes a multimedia pre-

nels.

The indoor ski slope is complete with chairlifts and a penguin

particularly attractive in the evening when lit with floodlights.

sentation on both Dubai and the building of the Burj Khalifa before

As well as viewing the vast amount of marine life, the Dubai

enclosure, all at a continuous temperature of -4 degrees Celsius.

The Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Centre for Cultural Under-

a high-speed elevator whizzes you up to the observation deck for

Aquarium offers plenty of aquatic experiences and things to do for

There’s also a cinema complex and a family entertainment center

standing (which also runs a program of tours, lectures, Arabic

those 360-degree views out across the skyscrapers to the desert on

visitors who want a close-up encounter with some of the aquar-

with a whole host of rides aimed at both the big and small.

classes, and cultural meals) organizes guided tours of the mosque

one side and the ocean on the other.

ium’s inhabitants, from hand-feeding eagle rays to diving with

The shopping opportunities are boundless, as are the eating

designed to try to foster a better understanding of the Muslim

reef and tiger sharks.

options, offering every conceivable world cuisine.

faith.

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Mall of the Emirates

Dubai’s mosques.An exact copy of Cairo’s Al-Azhar Mosque, which is eight times its size, the Jumeirah Mosque is a fine example of Islamic architecture.

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EDITORS’ CITIES & PLACES PICKS

Sélection Dubai BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

Burj Al-Arab The Burj Al-Arab is the world’s tallest hotel, standing 321 meters

Dubai Mall

high on its own artificial island on the Dubai coastline. Designed to resemble a billowing dhow sail, the exterior of the building is lit up by a choreographed, colored lighting show at

Dubai Opera

Dubai Mall is the city’s premier mall and one of the city’s best

night.

places to visit for a day of shopping and indoor activities to keep

Decadent in every way possible, the Burj Al-Arab is one of the most

the kids busy. It provides entry to the Burj Khalifa as well as the

expensive hotels in the world, with the most luxurious suites cost-

new opera building is the centerpiece of the waterfront Opera District in down-

Dubai Aquarium.

ing more than $15,000 for one night.

town Dubai and is a major cultural hub and main entertainment venue.

There is also an ice-skating rink, gaming zone, and cinema com-

For those without unlimited credit, the way to experience the

The Dubai Opera hosts a year-round program of famous musical theater produc-

plex if you’re looking for more entertainment options.

over-the-top opulence is to book afternoon tea at the Skyview Bar

tions, concerts by world-class musicians, opera, ballet, and classical music, as

The shopping and eating is endless, and there are nearly always

(a minimum spend is required) on the 27th floor.

well as smaller productions, comedy nights, and concerts.

special events such as live music and fashion shows within the

Non-guests can also book dinner at the underwater Al-Mahara

The 2,000-seat theater building itself is an astonishing piece of architectural

mall. The most famous of these are the annual Dubai Shopping

Restaurant, where floor-to-ceiling glass panels in the dining room

mastery and one of Dubai’s new landmarks, with its highly-contemporary glass

Festival in January and February and the Dubai Summer Surprises

walls allow you to view sea life while you eat, or you can enjoy

and steel walls jutting out over the waterfront, built to resemble the curves of a

Festival in July and August.

lunch at California-style fusion restaurant Scape.

traditional dhow.

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For nighttime attractions, look no further. Opened in mid-2016, Dubai’s classy

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EDITORS’ CITIE & PLACES PICKS

Sélection Doha BRICE LECHEVALIER AISHA JIBRIN

4 6 7

Al Messila 1

Sharq Village & Spa 2

This Marriott hotel is the first Luxury Collection resort in Doha,

Traditional, romantic and secluded. Feel like royalty at Sharq

sandwiched between the desert and the city. Guests can opt to stay

Village & Spa, a beach resort carefully designed to emulate an

in private pool villas, surrounded by scented gardens, or rooms in

elegantly marbled Sheikh’s palace. Admire Doha’s natural beauty

the main ‘palace’ building. Take a tailor-made water and treatment

from the balcony of your luxury room or suite and unwind at the

journey in the spa, led by a retreat specialist, dine on Michelin Star

infinity pool and private beach before letting go at the exceptional

Chef Pino Lavarra’s cuisine in the restaurants and let the children

spa. Located a few steps away from the National Museum of Qatar

enjoy themselves at the largest hotel kids club in Doha.

and Souq Waqif, this Ritz-Carlton resort in Doha will be the perfect

Four Seasons Doha 5

The Pearl 6

starting point of your memorable experience in Qatar.

Four Seasons Hotel Doha is a luxury hotel that has certain Oriental

The Pearl Qatar is a man-made island near Doha’s prestigious West

and European charm that you won’t find elsewhere in the city. One

Bay District. Featuring Mediterranean-style yacht-lined marinas,

of the big draws here are the multiple pools, which have beautiful

residential towers, villas, and hotels, the area also offers a luxu-

waterfalls and fun slides. There is also a great spa with offering a

rious shopping experience with premium designer boutiques and

variety of treatments and services.

showrooms. The Island is also home to modern dining spots.

A Ritz – Carlton Hotel

St. Regis Doha 3

Mandarin Oriental 4

Steeped in Middle Eastern mystique, The St. Regis Doha is located

Mandarin Oriental, Doha is an intimate and stylish urban retreat

on the West Bay, near the Diplomatic District in Qatar’s sophisti-

located in the centre of Msheireb Downtown Doha, the new life-

cated capital city. The hotel borders the Arabian Gulf, where sand

style and cultural heart of the city. The hotel blends chic and con-

dunes, ancient architecture and the scenic Pearl Island paint a

temporary design with touches of Qatari heritage, bringing new

magnificent landscape. its timeless resort facilities comprise a

levels of luxury to Qatar.

cornucopia of destination restaurants and event spaces, includ-

Blue Salon 7 Blue Salon is Qatar’s leading luxury brand store. The nation’s first

ing a 1,850-square meter Grand Ballroom. The St. Regis Doha also

and foremost go-to luxury department store, representing hun-

features a world-class Remède Spa and offers direct access to the

dreds of retail brands in Qatar’s market. Established in 1981, Blue

beach, where private cabanas and water sports await.

Salon has become a national leader in high-end fashion, watches, jewelry, perfumes, cosmetics, home decoration and more.

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EDITORS’ JET SET PICKS

Sélection Jet Set BRICE LECHEVALIER

5 6

UN POWERCAT NOMMÉ LEOPARD

Le segment du catamaran à moteur est en plein essor, dominé par quelques chantiers navals qui se taillent la part du lion. En tête de flotte, le Sud-Africain Leopard vient de présenter le Leopard 46, idéal pour les croisières entre amis ou famille. Appartenant au même groupe que les loueurs Moorings et Sunsail, il est possible de s’en offrir un juste pour les vacances !

A POWER CAT NAMED LEOPARD

The motor catamaran segment is booming, dominated by a few shipyards that are taking the lion's share. Heading the fleet is the Leopard brand from South Africa which has just presented the Leopard 46, ideal for cruising with friends or family. As it belongs to the same group as charter companies Moorings and Sunsail, it can be hired as a vacation treat! 2

Ce home office de 500 m2 pour multimillionnaire sur la Riviera vaudoise date du 15e siècle et a conservé son parc spectaculaire boisé de 14’000 m2 dominant le lac Léman. Le Château de Bochat est proposé à la vente par FGP Swiss and Alps (022 319 89 15). Une visite s’impose ! MEDIEVAL CASTLE WITH A LAKE VIEW

This 500sqm Vaud Riviera ‘home office for a multimillionaire’ dates from the 15th century and features 14,000sqm spectacular wooded grounds overlooking Lake Geneva. The Château de Bochat is up for sale by FGP Swiss and Alps (022 319 89 15) and is definitely worth a visit!

LA PUISSANCE DU SON GOLDMUND

L’inventeur suisse d’équipement audio haut de gamme dévoile sa toute nouvelle enceinte stéréo sans fil, capable de se connecter à plusieurs sources. Dotée d’un design audacieux signé Cécile Barani, l’enceinte Gaïa produit un niveau inégalé de transparence acoustique. Les mélomanes apprécieront, les amateurs de sensations fortes aussi. GOLDMUND’S SONIC POWER

The Swiss inventor of high-end audio equipment unveils its brand-new wireless stereo speaker, capable of connecting to multiple sources. Featuring a bold design by Cécile Barani, the Gaïa speaker produces a peerless level of acoustic transparency. Music lovers will appreciate it, as will thrill seekers.

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CHÂTEAU MÉDIÉVAL AVEC VUE SUR LE LAC ?

COCKTAIL MARIN CHEZ GÜBELIN

Selon la légende, les aigues-marines proviennent des trésors des sirènes et sont considérées comme des pierres protectrices et talismans pour les marins partant à la découverte du monde. Gübelin les décline en bagues de cocktail serties d’une aigue-marine de 22 carats. A porter sur le bon yacht. A MARINE COCKTAIL FROM GÜBELIN

Legend would have it that aquamarines originate from mermaids’ treasures and are considered protective stones and talismans for sailors setting out to discover the world. Gübelin offers them as cocktail rings set with a 22-carat aquamarine. To be worn on the right yacht.

AVEC AUDI, LE COURANT PASSE

Avec sa recharge rapide de 270kW, seulement dix minutes sont nécessaires pour conférer à l’A6 Avant une autonomie de 300km, qui peut atteindre 700km. Ce concept e-tron préfigure des futurs modèles de série à propulsion entièrement électriques d’Audi. AUDI KEEPS THE CURRENT FLOWING

With its 270 kW fast charge, it takes only ten minutes to give the A6 Avant a range of 300 km, which can be extended to 700 km. The e-tron concept foreshadows Audi's future fully electric production models.

REUGE DONNE LE RYTHME À MB&F

Quand le plus prestigieux créateur d’automates musicaux croise le chemin de l’un des pionniers de l’horlogerie indépendante contemporaine, cela donne trois séries limitées (bleue, rouge ou noire) de 33 MusicMachine 1 Reloaded. Quand les cylindres tournent, les 1'400 picots font vibrer les lames des claviers en acier dont s’échappent les mélodies de Star Wars et de Star Trek d’un côté, et trois morceaux rock de l’autre. REUGE SETS THE RHYTHM AT MB&F

When the most prestigious creator of musical automata meets one of the pioneers of contemporary independent watchmaking, the result is three 33-piece limited series (blue, red or black) of MusicMachine 1 Reloaded. When the cylinders turn, the 1,400 pins pluck the teeth of steel combs to play tunes from Star Wars and Star Trek on one side, and three rock songs on the other.

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EDITORS’ LIFESTYLEPICKS

Sélection Zoom events BRICE LECHEVALIER DEREMI AJIDAHUN

DAA TAKES US BACK TO DUBAI WATCH WEEK The last edition of the renowned educational and cultural Dubai Watch Week returned to the horological scene with its focus 100% centered on transferring knowledge of craftsmanship, and our Editor in Chief, Deremi Ajidahun was present to capture it all. Brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and LVMH headlined the DWW alongside over 40 watch brands showcased to enthusiasts and collectors.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

BIRTHDAY

Zoom events AISHA JIBRIN

DAA @ 60 It was an exquisite celebration of life as GMT GCC’s Editor in Chief, CEO of Hole19 Group and 2022 GPHG Jury member, Deremi Ajidahun turned 60! From an exclusive yacht party to a premium private dinner of closest friends and family, Entrepreneur, Deremi Ajidahun was lavishly honored by CEO’s and industry VIP friends alike despite a lockdown in the city of Gold, Dubai.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

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EDITORS’ LIFESTYLEPICKS

Sélection Zoom events BRICE DEREMI LECHEVALIER AJIDAHUN

GMT Party @ Geneva Watch Days 2022 Every year, the official GMT Party is a staple of the horological calendar in Geneva. In 2022, the famed event was held as the official part of the Geneva Watch Days programme with the launch of GMT GCC. Brand CEO’s, industry personalities and VIP guests were welcomed by GMT GCC Editor in Chief, Deremi Ajidahun and also hosted by the GMT family. It was an amazing evening of unwinding and celebration after a long (but exciting) day of meetings, interviews and presentations at GWD.

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

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EDITORS’ PICKS DIRECTORY

Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER

HOTELS Burj Al Arab, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Umm Suqeim 3 - Dubai United Arab Emirates +971 4 301 7777 One&Only The Palm, Dubai United Arab Emirates West Crescent, Palm Jumeirah - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 440 1010 Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman Dibba 800, Oman +968 26 735555 Alila Jabal Akhdar, Jabal Akhdar, Oman Al Roose, Jabal Al Akhdar Al Jabal Al Akhdar OM, 621, Oman, +968 25 344200 Zaya Nurai Island, Abu Dhabi United Arab Emirates Sheik Khalifa Hwy,Saadiyat Island - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates +971 2 506 6222 Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, Manama, Bahrain Bahrain Bay, Manama, Bahrain +973 1711 5000 Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa, Bahrain 105 Zallaq Highway,Building 2015 Block 1055, Zallaq, Manama, Bahrain +973 1763 6363 Vivienda Hotel Villas Sari Road, west Madinah Road, Ash Shatii Area Jeddah, KSA 00966 11 2224489 Intercontinental Jeddah Corniche, Al Hamra, Jeddah 21531, Saudi Arabia +966 12 229 5555 Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Jumeirah St - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 800 323232 La Petite Maison 54 Brooks Mews, Mayfair, London, W1K 4EG + 971 0 2692 9600 Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah Crescent Rd - The Palm Jumeirah - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 818 2222

160 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Symphony Style Hotel Symphony Style Mall Arabian Gulf Road Salmiya, 22012, Kuwait +965 2577-0000 Raffles Makkah Palace Ibrahim Al Khalil Rd, Near Masjid Al Haram Al Hajlah Royal Tower, Mecca 24231, Saudi Arabia +966 12 571 7888 The Oberoi Hotel The Oberoi Centre, Business Bay(Burj Area), Dubai, United Arab Emirates. +971 4 4441444 · +971 4 4441333 Swiss-Belresidences Juffair Building 232, Road, 22 Awal Ave, Manama, Bahrain +973 1366 6777 Orange Suites Hotel Building 1370، Road No 2423، Manama, Bahrain +973 1722 2888 Fraser suites Diplomatic area Bahrain Block 317, Building، 34 Rd No 1701, Manama, Bahrain +973 1616 1800 Wyndham Garden Manama Wyndham Garden, Building, 65 Road 4003، Manama, Bahrain +973 6631 6666

Six Senses Zighy Bay Dibba 800, Oman +968 26 735555 Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa OM، Al Jissah St, 100, Oman +968 24 776666 The Chedi Muscat 133 18th November St, Muscat, Oman +968 24 524400 Jumeirah Muscat Bay Saraya OM, Bandar Jissah 117, Oman +968 24 931000 W Muscat Al Kharjiya Street, 103, Oman +968 22 120000 Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort No 110, Al Jabal Al Akhdar, Nizwa 621, Oman +968 25 218000 Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz Carlton Hotel Al Bustan St, Muscat 114, Oman +968 24 799666 Borj Akhir Hotel CRCW+6HR, King Abdul Aziz Rd, Alaziziyyah, Makkah 24235, Saudi Arabia +966 56 788 7639

Adams Hotel 64 St, Kuwait +965 2202 0000

Jabal Omar Marriott Hotel Makkah Umm Al Qura, Ash Shubaikah, Makkah 21955, Saudi Arabia +966 12 529 6666

Jabal Omar Hayatt Regency Makkah Ibrahim Al Khalil, Street Jabal Omar Makkah 21955, Saudi Arabia +966 12 577 1234

Le Meridien Makkah King Abdul Aziz Rd Mecca, Saudi Arabia 13700 +966 12 575 1111

Hilton Makkah Convention Hotel Ibrahim Al Khalil, Jabal Omar, Mecca 21955, Saudi Arabia +966 12 526 0000 Hotel Pullman Zam zam Makkah King Abdel Aziz Endowment, Abraj Al Bait Complex, Mecca 21955, Saudi Arabia +966 12 571 5555 Jeddah Sheraton Hotel Al Kurnaysh Br Rd, Ash Shati, Jeddah 21424, Saudi Arabia +966 12 699 2212 Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh 2239 King Fahd Rd, Al Olaya, Riyadh 12264, Saudi Arabia +966 11 211 5000

DINNING Al Nafoorah Madinat Jumeirah, King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St, Umm Suqeim, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Atmosphere Grill & Lounge Burj Khalifa – 122nd Floor, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 888 3828 Al Dawaar Revolving Restaurant Hyatt Regency Dubai, 25th Al Khaleej Rd, Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 209 6697

Coya Restaurant Village Four Seasons Resort Jumeirah Beach Road,, Dubai, +971 (0)4 316 9600 JW’s Steakhouse Abu Baker Al Siddique Rd, Deira, next to Hamarain Shopping Center, Box 16590, JW Marriott hotel Dubai Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 607 7977

Dana Executive Jets Ras Al Khaimah, Dubai + 971 7 244 8613 Empire Aviation Group F-06 - Dubai Airport Free Zone - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 299 8444 Falcon Aviation Services Abu Dhabi, UAE +971 24440007

STAY by Yannick Alleno The Palm Jumeirah, Crescent Road (West), Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 440 1010

Gama Aviation Gama Aviation Bldg Gate 3A Sharjah International Airport Sharjah - United Arab Emirates +971 6 502 7700

The Restaurant at Address Downtown Address Downtown, Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashed Boulevard, Downtown Dubai, 123234 Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 436 8888

GI Aviation Airport Road, Al Fahim Building, Office 402 - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates +971 2 449 6682

Sardina Seafood Restaurant The Mall – 1st floor, Jumeirah St, Umm Suqeim 3, Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 339 0444

AIRLINES Royal Jet Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates +971 2-5051777 Four Seasons Private Jet 115, Building 8, Media City, Dubai, +1206 7530048 ExecuJet +971 4 601 6363 Alliance Jet Dubai World Central at Al Maktoum +356 2125 7270 Falcon Aviation Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates +971 24440007 Abu Dhabi Aviation Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates +971 2 5051263 AeroGulf Services DWC International Airport, Dubai South - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 877 6120 Aero Vista The Metropolis Tower Business Bay - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 347 0042

Gulf Wings P6-135 - Saif Zone - Sharjah United Arab Emirates +971 6 557 8567 Nas Jet Riyadh, Ar Riyad, Saudi Arabia +966 112611199 Heli Dubai Dubai Police Academy - Al Sufouh - Al Sufouh 1 - Dubai United Arab Emirates +971 50 175 8626 Jet Ops Dubai South - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 807 0700

Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa Al Ta’awun Street Kuwait City، 13036, Kuwait +965 2226 9600 Talise Spa King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud Street, Jumeirah - Dubai United Arab Emirates +971 4 366 6818 Six Senses Spa Al Bustan Palace, a RitzCarlton Hotel Muscat OM, 114, Oman +968 24 764333 Aquatonic Spa 1 St, Kuwait +965 1848 111 Al Faisaliah Spa by ESPA at Al Faisaliah Hotel, Riyadh King Fahd Rd, Al Olaya, Riyadh 12212, Saudi Arabia +966 11 273 3000 Evania Spa, Park Hyatt Jeddah – Marina, Club and Spa South Corniche, Al Hamra District، Jeddah 21432, Saudi Arabia +966 12 263 9666 Luthan Hotel and Spa, Riyadh Building No.7358 Al Hanka، Riyadh 12352, Saudi Arabia +966 11 480 7799

Rotana Jet Abu Dhabi, UAE +971 2 444 3366

Four Seasons Spa, Riyadh Kingdom Centre, Olaya Street, Olaya Dist, Riyadh 11321, Saudi Arabia +966 11 211 5730

Tasheen Aviation Services Dubai Airport Free Zone, Building 5EA, Office 224 - Dubai Airport Free Zone Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 6091090

The Spa at Kempinski Al Othman Hotel, Al Khobar King Saud Bin Abdulaziz Rd, Al Qashlah, Al Khobar 31952, Saudi Arabia +966 13 829 4407

Paramount Business Jet Floor 26, DWTC Tower, Sheikh Zayed Street, Dubai, UAE +971 (04) 3370 200

Narci Spa at Narcissus Hotel, Riyadh Tahliah St, Al Olaya, Riyadh 11372, Saudi Arabia +966 11 294 6400

SPA Hani Suites & Spa Luxury Apartments Building 1091 Road 3622 Black 436 Seef D, Manama, Bahrain +973 1758 1100 Al Maha Resort and Spa Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve Dubai - Al Ain Road Dubai - United Arab Emirates. +971 4 832 9900

SHOPPING AND MALLS The Dubai Mall Financial Center Street, Along Sheikh Zayed Road, Next to Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 800 382246255 The Avenues Al-Rai- 5th Ring RoadBetween Ghazali Street & Mohammed Bin Alqasem Street, Kuwait

Yas Mall Yas Island - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates +971 800 9276255

Al Habtoor Polo Resort and Club Wadi Al Safa 5 Emirates Road 611. Dubai, United Arab Emirates +971 4 435 4444

White Dubai Meydan Racecourse Grandstand Rooftop Adjacent To The Ticket Sales Office Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 800 9191

Mall of the Emirates Sheikh Zayed Rd - Al Barsha - Al Barsha 1 - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 800 6636255

Siddharta Lounge Grosvenor House Dubai - Al Emreef St - Dubai Marina Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 317 6000

Bla Bla 5101 Messer Street Beach by Meraas Mall - Jumeirah Beach Residence - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 584 4111

Red Sea Mall Ash Shati, Jeddah 21146, Saudi Arabia +966 12 215 1551

Desert Palm Polo Club 1 - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 323 8888

Dubai Festival City Crescent Dr - Dubai Festival City - Dubai - United Arab Emirates 971-4-213-6213

Wane By Somiya Dubai Marina - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 52 884 4879

+965 2259-7777

Dubai Marina Mall Sheikh Zayed Rd - Dubai Marina - Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 4 436 1020 Gold and Spice Souks 41 34th St - Deira - Al Ras Dubai - United Arab Emirates +971 50 222 3627 Amzaan Fashion Boutique Dubal Mall, Street 1 +971 04 325 3206 Abu Dhabi Mall Al Zahiyah - Abu Dhabi United Arab Emirates +971 2 645 4858 Marina Mall Head Office, Zayed 1st Street (Electra Road), Al Manhal, Abu Dhabi (+9712)6818300 Avenue at Etihad, Abu Dhabi M-15, Etihad Towers,Tower 3, Street Number 7,Corniche Road, West - Corniche Rd - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates +971 2 613 3373 Madinat Zayed Gold Centre, Abu Dhabi Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre and Gold Centre +971 2 633 3311

LOUNGES / CLUBS/ BARS Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club 7477 - Al Qudra Road, Next to - Dubai Studio City - Dubai United Arab Emirates +971 4 361 8111

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