GMT GCC - N3 - SUMMER EDITION, 2023.

New models

Watches and Wonders novelties

Coming in haute:

Sizzling anticipation for Dubai Watch Week and Only Watch

Hublot’s

material world

Portfolio

Summer of sports Inside Vacheron Constantin

Interviews

Fabian Cancellara gets personal Chef Alvin Leung’s devilish side Ada Hegerberg’s winning attitude

GMT GCC NO 3 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q3 2023 I ENGLISH I USD 12.– GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

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SQUARE BANG UNICO SAPPHIRE Sapphire case. In-house UNICO chronograph movement.

Limited to 250 pieces.

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MARGOTROBBIE ROBBIE MARGOT

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THE WORLDTEMPUS APP Free Access to the World of Watchmaking Articles from our experts Exclusive videos Audio articles (for club members) GMT digital magazine (for club members)

It is also possible to customize the app to follow your favourite brands, or listen to the weekly news round-up in 60 seconds.

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Editorial Q3 2023

A spry summer

R

esplendent on our cover this

biting Tour de France finish to Wimbledon’s

month, Hublot’s energy, crea-

edge-of-your-seat finale, that has us hanke-

tivity and relentless force is ex-

ring for some competitive action.

pressed in its MP-13 Tourbillon

We took an horologically-themed dive

Bi-Axis Retrograde, a watch whose gravi-

into the worlds of some of our favourite lea-

ty-defying complications are perfectly mat-

ding global sporting events, to discover just

ched by the audacious fusion of materials

how the synergy between exceptional athle-

that give it an irresistibly dynamic, adrena-

ticism and watchmaking drives excellence:

line-drenched look and feel.

UAE Team Emirates and Richard Mille;

Hublot has always been a bit of a non-

the FIFA Women’s World Cup and Hublot;

conformist when it comes to the art of

Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc and

watchmaking and horological invention.

Montres KF. Our managing editor Rachel

Ever since the Swiss brand ruffled feathers

Silvestri grabbed some time in between lea-

in the 1980s when it was the first to unite

ving China for the first time in several years

precious gold with rubber, it’s continued to

and visiting family in Australia to speak

unleash unexpected, surprising and conver-

exclusively with legendary cycling ace and

sation-starting pieces on an eager fanbase.

Tudor ambassador Fabian Cancellara.

Turn to page 20 for a look at some of the

Meanwhile, I was fortunate enough to be

most exciting novelties from Hublot, as

invited aboard a showpiece Sunreef supe-

our curation of the fair’s finest highlights

presented in our retro-futuristic exclusive

ryacht by the company’s founder and pre-

at your leisure — watches to see you from

shoot styled by the renowned luxury style

sident, Francis Lapp. The CEO has based

breakfast meeting to sun-drenched beach

director, Stuart Robertson.

himself and his family in Dubai as he

resort in style.

With Hublot the official sponsor of the

expands his business in the region, show-

And if you do happen to be staying put

FIFA Women’s World Cup, which takes

casing sustainability and green technology

in the GCC over the summer period, have a

place until August 20 in Australia and New

in his catamarans, yachts and superyachts.

look at our lifestyle pages. There are plenty

Zealand and is the biggest tournament in

It was then a whistle-stop hop over to meet

of ways to have fun at home too, from fine

the history of the women’s game, we’re in

Zenith’s CEO Julien Tornare as he popped

dining and cigar lounges to staycations that

a decidedly summery and sporty mood here

over to Dubai to show off the brand’s novel-

offer five-star experiences without the need

at GMT GCC. Maybe it’s the prospect of holi-

ties for the year ahead.

to pass through airport security. With Du-

days, new horizons and adventure that has

We returned also to Watches and Won-

bai Watch Week coming up after the sum-

our heartbeats elevated a zone or two above

ders, to review in more detail the time-

mer, there’s plenty happening in our region

resting rate, or perhaps it’s been the recent

pieces and trends that will define the rest

to keep us busy. In the meantime, enjoy

spate of sporting moments, from the nail-

of the year, and hope you’ll enjoy perusing

your summer!

JOLA CHUDY I Editor-in-Chief @jolaruns jola@gmtgcc.com

ZENITH page 150

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Contributors Drawing talent from an international pool of professionals, the following specialist watch industry writers and stylists have made expert contributions to this edition of GMT GCC.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

An entrepreneur at heart, the founder of GMT magazine and Editor-in-Chief of the Swiss and international editions is always brimming with new ideas. He nurtures an unbridled passion for watchmaking that he conveys to readers through his insightful articles.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

MARIE DE PIMODAN

When she’s not out in the field meeting industry players, visiting a manufacture or discovering a new product, you’ll find this expert watch journalist at GMT Publishing, writing an article for the magazine or for WorldTempus.

This experienced watchmaker knows the workings of the watch industry inside out. For GMT, he writes the Test Bench section. The principle? Wear a watch for a week and analyze it from every angle so as to deliver a precise technical and aesthetic assessment.

JOLA CHUDY

Jola Chudy is Editor-in-Chief of GMT GCC as well as an ultrarunner, sports brand ambassador and founder of her own communications agency. With a special place in her heart reserved for fine watchmaking, Jola is a talented storyteller who is equally at ease surrounded by the world’s most beautiful watches as she is crossing inhospitable desert dunes on foot. In this edition, Jola swaps sand for the skies and open ocean, delving into the worlds of Zenith and superyachts.

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RACHEL SILVESTRI

A writer and editor whose career has taken her to every continent on the planet — as well as inside some of Swiss watchmaking’s most sacred spaces — Rachel is delighted to be Managing Editor of GMT GCC. She has a deep-seated passion for haute horlogerie and fine jewellery that has seen her contribute to some of the most respected luxury titles in the world.

ONLY WATCH p.136

ALLISSA PATAKI AISHA JIBRIN An experienced member of the GMT team, this issue Aisha tackles the topic of Manchester City FC’s significant victory in Europe as winners of the Champion’s League, and how it was all orchestrated from the shores of the UAE.

DAVID CHOKRON

A specialized watch journalist based in Paris, David still finds himself amazed and blown away by the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favours a reasonable and pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles.

A newcomer to the watchmaking world, Allissa has fallen in love with this rich and exciting field. She recently joined the GMT magazine editorial team and shares her enthusiasm for timepieces in her articles when she is not writing emails.

STUART ROBERTSON

Bringing a futuristic aesthetic to this issue of GMT GCC, fashion director Stuart put his 25 years of experience to work on Hublot’s timepieces with some fantastical tableaus. Check out his wild vision in our cover story on page 20.

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Contents Q3 2023

13 EDITORIAL 14 CONTRIBUTORS 20 COVER STORY Hublot’s Material World

28 NEWS

SPECIALS

ART & HISTORY

38 WATCHES AND WONDERS RETROSPECTIVE

58 IN THE WORKSHOP OF… VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

52 CHEF ALVIN LEUNG OF DEMON DUCK

94 ICON: JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO

60 SUMMER OF SPORT

150 ZENITH

84 SUNREEF YACHTS

154 PHILIPPE DUFOUR

86 DOSSIER: VACHERON CONSTANTIN 102 DUBAI WATCH WEEK

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120 DUBAI AUDIO

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60 132

LIFESTYLE 36 OFFICINA ITALIANA 116 PORTFOLIO: REBELLION X DAKAR RALLY 124 MOTORING 126 YACHTING 128 DESTINATIONS 130 FASHION 132 CIGARS 158 ZOOM LIFESTYLE 170 JET SET 172 HEADLINER

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TECH INSIGHTS 48 INNOVATION: UNIQUE IN THE WORLD 96 LEICA 108 ARGON 112 TEST BENCH: PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

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NEW RELEASES 98 BYRNE WATCH 104 CHRONOSWISS 136 ONLY WATCH

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144 TRENDS

136 Imprint Magazine GMT GCC no 3 The magazine of the 12th Art, reflects the spirit of haute horlogerie since the year 2000. GCC Edition from 2022. Printed edition: 15’000 copies in English Publisher: Deremi Ajidahun daa@gmtgcc.com Administration & Edition : HNZ Group UAE Directors : Deremi Ajidahun & Bi Feuser-Ajidahun Marketing, Distribution & Sales Manager : Aisha Jibrin aisha@gmtgcc.com Tel: +971 52 439 5020 Layout : ODA Studio info@odaverse.com Print : Zabeel Dubai

© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT GCC is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

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Cover story WORDS BY RACHEL SILVESTRI STYLING AND ARTISTIC DIRECTION BY STUART ROBERTSON

Above: HUBLOT MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde

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HUBLOT’S

MATERIAL WORLD From mind-boggling complications to case materials that are literal space-age technology, Hublot is at the front of the pack when it comes to innovation.

GMT GCC finds out how the Maison’s ‘Art of Fusion’ sends its timepieces stratospheric.

H

ublot recently grabbed the watch industry headlines with a new and novel launch — that of the Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin. As well as forming an alliance between two of Switzerland’s hottest players — both young brands, Hublot and Nespresso have achieved world-

wide recognition since being founded in the 1980s — the timepiece also connected materials never previously considered in horology. And they are?

“This is a watch that delivers three world firsts,” said Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe on the timepiece’s launch. “And is a symbol of the infinite possibilities for upcycling. A Big Bang made from the recycled aluminium of Nespresso coffee capsules; the first watch with a rubber strap containing four per cent recycled coffee grounds from Nespresso capsules and over eight per cent recycled rubber. And, finally, it’s the first watch with a Velcro strap made with SCafé, a fabric containing five per cent recycled coffee grounds and 95 per cent recycled polyester. It took the R&D teams a whole year to achieve the uniformity of colour of the watch’s seven different materials, and to find the right balance of ingredients and perform the quality and durability testing on all the product components.” 

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Right: HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Yellow Magic 42mm Facing page: HUBLOT Big Bang Integrated Time Only Black Magic 40mm

The avant garde spirit of Hublot is never stronger than when mixing things up to get results never dreamed of before.

For any other brand this may be a coup, a once-in-a-Maison’slifetime achievement of foresight and technology. But for Hublot, innovation that others can only dream of is all in a day’s work — indeed, it’s part of the House’s very raison d’être. Passionate about making the future of watchmaking reality in the here and now, Hublot’s manufacture is fully equipped for the brand to constantly strive and push further in terms of the combinations and the materials they create.

‘Art of Fusion’ is Hublot’s well-known tagline, encompassing the brand’s multifaceted relationships with technology, artistry, materials and inspirations. But nowhere is it more apt than in the Maison’s in-house Metallurgy and Materials lab, as well as its own foundry — a literal crucible bringing dream materials to life.

Indeed, the brand itself says that the ‘Art of Fusion’ has three pillars — materials, movements and design. And it’s clear to see that materials comes first and foremost.

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The Hublot story began with gold back

a magnesium and aluminium alloy that the

ished, ceramic gives one of the most hard-

in 1980 — it was founder Carlo Crocco’s dar-

brand calls Hublonium — but it’s not just

wearing, uniform and lustrous finishes

ing decision to combine the precious metal

about metal. In fact, ceramic has become

possible. And Hublot’s expertise means that

with a rubber strap that put the brand on

something of a signature for Hublot, with

as well as red, it also comes in vivid blue,

the map in the first place — but it was the

a pillar box red shade the perfect example

green and yellow, as in the waspish Spirit

2011 development of Hublot’s Magic Gold

of the brand’s material mastery. Iron oxide

of Big Bang Yellow Magic, and black as used

that solidified its position as an innovator.

gives the ceramic its hue, while intense

in the Big Bang Integrated Time Only Black

An 18 carat scratch-proof alloy of gold and

and precise levels of heat and pressure are

Magic, its inky satin-finished case and

porous ceramic, this hardy material never

applied to ensure a uniform finish on this

bracelet a sight to behold.

dulls or shows damage, fusing the strength

temperamental material. In reality, in order

Perhaps the most interesting material

of ceramic with the sumptuous feel and

to achieve high-colour finishes, pigment is

— or should we say, materials — to come

appearance of gold. It was a winning combi-

pushed into the porous ceramic under high

from Hublot of late are various forms of syn-

nation — and it wouldn’t be the brand’s last

heat and pressure — a technique that was

thetic sapphire. Tinted to what are frankly

attempt to make brand new connections.

discovered by accident after machinery in

mouthwatering candy-coloured translucent

have

the Hublot manufacture was accidentally

shades, as well as perfectly icy clear as in the

emerged from the manufacture — including

left on overnight. But once shaped and fin-

case of the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, you

Other

metallic

combinations

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Facing Page: HUBLOT Square Bang Unico Sapphire 42mm Below: HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Steel White Pavé 32mm

For Hublot, innovation that others can only dream of is all in a day’s work – indeed, it’s part of the House’s very raison d’être could almost imagine that these timepieces would melt in the mouth. But the knack for creating this pristine, ultra-hard case material has given Hublot the freedom to produce some truly groundbreaking forms — not least of all the unforgettable Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Purple Sapphire, and the totally eye-popping Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Neon Yellow Saxem. This particular timepiece uses a material that’s really verging on rocket science — SAXEM, the brand’s useful acronym for ‘Sapphire Aluminium oXide and Rare Earth Mineral’, is most often used in satellites and lasers. But the Hublot lab has put it to extremely powerful effect as a sunshine-bright, fully translucent cocoon for the proprietary Automatic Tourbillon movement within, the ideal way to catch sight of this impressive calibre from each and every neon angle. Launched just last February at LVMH Watch Week, this was a first for Hublot and watchmaking in general — and the brand has picked up many such firsts along its journey.

From carbon fibre and platinum to titanium and stainless steel — and even precious gems, like in the Spirit of Big Bang Steel Diamonds — Hublot isn’t afraid to give any material a try. If its properties coincide with what a particular timepiece is trying to achieve then it’ll be given a shot. Which brings us back to rubber. The effect that the decision to pair this humble material with 18 carat gold had right at the brand’s outset can’t be underestimated, and the reasoning behind it remains the same as it is today: it was the best material for the job. Rubber remains a mainstay of Hublot’s timepieces, from the ribbed matt black strap of the MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde with its gravity-defying complications, to the translucent and perfectly clear versions made to match each new sapphire creation. The avant garde spirit of Hublot is never stronger than when mixing things up to get results never dreamed of before. And really, isn’t that what the art of fusion is all about?

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BRIDGING A bridge to the GCC THE GULF With over 25 years experience in retail and distribution in EMEA, HNZ Group offers brands a clear path to success in the GCC market. We manage the full value chain from trade logistics to an expanding retail network and brand management, so you can focus on building a great product.

+971 52 439 5020

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CONSULTANCY

BRAND MANAGEMENT & MARKETING

DISTRIBUTION & RETAIL

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Regional news RACHEL SILVESTRI

Saudi International Luxury Week

SAUDI ARABIA

The biggest edition ever showcased the Kingdom’s sparkle

B

ringing top regional and international brands together for a fabulous week of glitz and glamour, Saudi International Luxury Week launched twin exhibitions for the Kingdom’s

biggest jewellery showcase. Kicking off in Jeddah from 8-10 May at the Jeddah Hilton Hotel, the week then moved on to Riyadh’s grand Al Faisalah Hotel from 16-19 May. Riyadh’s exhibition was three times bigger than last year’s, with 120 brands from 15 countries all participating. From bridal sets and gemstones to high jewellery and horology, there was something for every jewel lover. And the best part? Everything on display was available for purchase. From pearl specialist Yoko London and historic Parisian horologer Charles Oudin to regional favourites Al Nahar Jewellery and Saudi’s own Renad Alamoudi, it was a spectacular, dream-filled week.

Charles Simon x Perpétuel Charles Simon and Perpétuel have summertime travel all boxed up

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t’s always the same old story — you

Perpétuel, the Charles Simon x Perpétuel

want to travel with a selection of time-

Summer Collection ensures it’s all done in

pieces, but how best to keep them safe

the utmost style. Young bull leather in vivid

and secure? Ultra-luxe luggage and travel

blue, a frame clasp and removeable Alcan-

accessory brand Charles Simon have you

tara cushions will transport your watches

covered with their semi-rigid watch cases,

in first-class comfort. Cross check and doors

and now, in collaboration with Dubai’s own

to manual — we’re ready.

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UAE

GCC

Piaget Possession Palace Décor Piaget’s new Possession collection is fit for royalty

T

he endlessly touchable and spinnable Possession collection just got even more tactile, with the launch of a new Possession Palace Décor line. Adorning the turning bands and

perfect circles of the ever-popular collection with the Palace Décor guilloché technique normally reserved for Piaget’s timepieces, these new trinkets have an added boost of texture that simply begs to be grabbed and played with. Irregular engraving spreads over the surfaces of rings, bangles and pendants, all resplendent in Possession’s signature central diamond, outer gadroons, spinning band and superlative craftsmanship. It’s playtime — as we’ve never known it before.

GCC

The Fitting Room New digital platform brings the local flavour

W

ith its sole mission to shine a spotlight on the brilliance of regional fashion, The Fitting Room is a creative community like no other — and it’s fresh out of the box.

Launching in mid-May, this digital platform has nevertheless been in the works since 2013, beginning life as a physical creative space in Dubai, founded by Shalman Al Rifai. It completed its transformation to interactive online marketplace earlier this year, ensuring representation for the incredible talent working and designing iright across the Middle East. So much more than just a retail space, The Fitting Room supports the designers it works with by organising workshops and courses to further their careers. A boon for the rest of us — an ethical, regional and high-quality online marketplace ripe for the picking? Yes please. www.thefittingroom.com

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News

GCC

TimeVallée x Mandarin Oriental Partnership TimeVallée partners with Mandarin Oriental to fuse horology and travel luxury ore exciting news for fans of Richemont’s

M

“This is a chance to offer an exceptional luxury

TimeVallée multibrand watch boutiques:

experience to both Mandarin Oriental VIP Guests and

after opening their first Middle Eastern

TimeVallée VIP clients,” says Michael Guenoun, CEO

showroom in Qatar’s Hamad International Airport

of TimeVallée International. “Utmost client care and

last January, closely followed by another brand-new

the commitment to always enhancing the customer

store at Abu Dhabi’s Yas Mall in May, the chain of

journey are two of the core values we share with the

luxury horological boutiques has now partnered with

Mandarin Oriental Group.”

the Mandarin Oriental Group to elevate both their shopping and travel experiences. In an offer exclu-

Access all areas to five-star luxury and stunning holology? Sign us up

sively available to members of Fans of Mandarin Oriental, TimeVallée Watch Experts will offer personal consultations as well as extending invitations to exclusive events and granting VIP access to the watch and jewellery collections held by the TimeVallée store network. Likewise, TimeVallée VIP customers will be enrolled in the Fans of Mandarin Oriental pro-

‘‘This is a chance to offer an exceptional luxury experience to both Mandarin Oriental VIP Guests and TimeVallée VIP clients.’’

gramme, allowing them to enjoy signature benefits, enhanced recognition and experiences tailor-made for them during their stays.

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Michael Guenoun CEO, TimeVallée International

Tudor at Mall of the Emirates

UAE

Tudor’s Middle Eastern footprint widens with new Mall of the Emirates boutique ith a branded coffee bar, hospitality area and — of

W

“We are proud to announce the opening of the second Tudor

course — a to-die-for selection of timepieces to be

boutique in Dubai, marking another milestone in the long-

expected from this beloved Swiss manufacturer,

standing collaboration and shared vision between Ahmed Sed-

Tudor’s newly opened boutique at the Mall of the Emirates

diqi & Sons and Tudor,” said Mohammed Abdul Hamied Sed-

is bringing a full horological experience to Dubai’s shoppers.

diqi, senior director of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. “With the Middle

With the launch of this, the brand’s second standalone bou-

East’s thriving demand for luxury watches, we are honoured to

tique in the city, an extensive range of diving, sport, classic

strengthen the brand’s retail footprint and continue catering to

and heritage-inspired watches for both men and women are

avid enthusiasts. This boutique represents the brand’s growth

on offer in the new immersive setting, giving the all-impor-

in the region, and we look forward to our continued success

tant opportunity to look, touch and feel the timepieces.

together in the years to come.”

Privilee Qatar Launch

QATAR

A life of leisure awaits in Qatar with Privilee’s latest expansion

H

ow does exclusive access to the finest

just access — it’s a way of life. Members can expe-

hotels, beaches and gyms sound? For the

rience the best of Qatar, seven days a week, maxi-

people of Qatar, it sounds like it’s all come

mising the membership to suit and enhance their

one step closer with the launch of award-winning

lifestyle. Whether that’s spending quality time

lifestyle membership programme Privilee. Already

with family, getting active or relaxing at a five-

a favourite of in-the-know luxe lovers in the UAE,

star resort.”

it’s now Qatar’s turn to experience the fun and

With access to the new Waldorf Astoria Lusail

convenience that a Privilee membership can bring.

Doha, InterContinental Doha Beach & Spa, The

“Our mission at Privilee is to make everyday life

Ritz-Carlton Doha and many more besides, all

in Qatar more enjoyable, accessible, and afford-

controlled at your fingertips with the Privilee app,

able” said Lars Johannesen, founder and CEO of

maybe now’s the moment to take your fun time a

Privilee. “The Privilee membership is more than

little more seriously.

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Worldwide news RACHEL SILVESTRI

Geneva Watch Days

INTERNATIONAL

Geneva Watch Days set to end the summer in style

I

t seems that the post-Covid watch fair calendar has hit its stride and is now as regular as the timepieces they show — and, sure enough, just like clockwork Geneva Watch Days are almost here

once more. This fourth instalment of the event will be the biggest yet, with almost 40 brands including Byrne, Greubel Forsey, Ulysse Nardin, Bulgari and Breitling presenting their wares at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc pavilion on Lake Geneva from August 29 to Septem-

ber 2. There will also be events taking place at boutiques and venues throughout the city, including the official inauguration on August 29, with visitors invited to view the novelties on display and free guided tours each afternoon for those wanting to learn more about the world of fine watches. Registration is open now, so be sure to book your spot at this essential watch industry salon.

Audemars Piguet

INTERNATIONAL

Audemars Piguet ambassador Mark Ronson to rock Montreux Jazz Festival with spectacular closing concert

I

t’s a fantasy come true for Mark Ronson, and for the audience lucky enough to catch the closing show of the Montreux Jazz Festival on 15 July it’ll be an experience like no other. In response to a challenge set by the event’s Global

Partner Audemars Piguet, to create a unique and collaborative musical experi-

ence, the Academy and Grammy Award-winning artist has assembled a constellation of his favourite collaborators to form what he’s calling Mark Ronson and his Favourite Band Ever, with a concert paying tribute to this musical family. Ronson protégés Yebba and Lucky Daye will appear alongside the British-American producer, DJ and songwriter, ensuring that the historic festival goes out with a bang.

“To put on a show worthy of that stage, you really have to dream up a very special, memorable show,” said Ronson, who will appear at the festival with Bob Dylan, Iggy Pop, Lionel Richie and Lil Nas X also in the 2023 lineup.

“The closing night of the Montreux Jazz Festival marks the second year in the collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Mark Ronson, who has risen once more to a crazy challenge,” said Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henri Bennahmias at the show’s announcement. “Together, we will continue to create new creative synergies and push boundaries to develop unique and always more incredible experiences, full of emotions.”

We’re sure it’ll be an emotional night for anyone attending this concert — whether on stage or off.

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F.P.Journe Expands

INTERNATIONAL

F.P.Journe’s new workshops spell a new level of production perfection

W

ith the inauguration of a new,

years ago with the purchase, demolition

machinery, and to safeguard the wellbeing

specially-constructed building

and rebuilding of an abandoned factory,

of the employees,” said a company state-

in Meyrin, Geneva, Switzer-

has resulted in state-of-the-art light-bathed

ment issued at the inauguration, which

land, F.P.Journe is making a bold move —

workshops, with fully controlled humidity

was attended by representatives of the

instead of using the space to up production,

and temperature. The result? Movement

local authorities including State Council

the Maison is concentrating on optimising

component manufacture, decoration and

Vice-President Nathalie Fontanet, State

its manufacturing process, ensuring higher-

watchmaking workshops with ever-higher

Councillor Delphine Bachmann and Meyrin

quality timepieces as well as better working

quality and precision.

Administrative Councillor Laurent Tremblet

conditions for the craftsmen and women

“Contrary to the usual expectations of

who meticulously compose them. With in-

such an investment, the aim was not to

— a sign of the importance of this project for

house expertise a hallmark of F.P.Journe’s

encourage an increase in production, but

Happier workers and even better time-

brand identity, this extension of the Mai-

to focus on quality by developing even

pieces? That’s an advancement we can cer-

son’s premises, a project that began three

more efficient workshops using modern

tainly get behind.

Meyrin and its surrounding areas.

INTERNATIONAL

Golfers hit a milestone at the 2023 F.P.Journe Golf Cup

I

t was a swinging celebration for this year’s F.P.Journe Golf Cup, as participants marked the tournament’s 10th year on a beautiful sunny June Sunday at the

Golf Club de Genève. With 140 players taking in the spec-

tacular panoramic lake and mountain views, the course offered challenges for participants ranging from amateur to pro, with F.P.Journe creations including the lineSport collection’s titanium models also on display for discovery. Prizes were presented at a cocktail reception at the end of the day, but anyone participating in this genteel and sun-soaked day certainly felt like a winner regardless of their score.

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News

INTERNATIONAL

Chopard x Mille Miglia Chopard revs up the 1000 Miglia 2023 with new watches and new routes

R

eturning as Official Timekeeper and world sponsor of ‘the most beautiful race in the world’ for the 36th time, Chopard and the 1000 Miglia once again made magic at this classic car rally. It’s no secret

that Chopard co-president Karl-Freidrich Sheufele’s interest in the event goes much further than simply as a sponsor — in fact, he tackled the gruelling course for the 35th time this year, alongside his serial co-pilot and sixtime Le Mans 24 Hours winner Jacky Ickx. And, as per tradition, Chopard also introduced new timepieces inspired by the event: four Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs and an additional ‘Italian Limited Edition’ of the Mille Miglia GTS Chronograph, with some of its proceeds going towards helping those affected by the recent flooding in Emilia-Romagna.

Running since 1927 but ever evolving and fresh, this year’s 1000 Miglia treated participants to a new route, a new city and an extra day on top of the usual four-day schedule. The 405 racers took in a new section of course from Parma to Milan, a first for the race, before making the final run home from Milan to Brescia on June 17. What a chance to take in the incredible beauty that Italy has to offer — and in the most stylish of motors, of course.

Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Bell & Ross gets sweet on pâtissier Julien Dugourd

T

here’s no sugar-coating it: the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze from Bell & Ross is something of a Marmite timepiece — you either love it or you hate it. Fortunately it was love at

first sight for chef pâtissier and Bell & Ross collector Julien Dougourd, who turned his talented hands to recreating this unforgettable piece of wrist candy as a chocolate-caramel cake. Delish.

“I’m a fan of aviation,” says Dugourd, pastry chef to the Prince’s Palace of Monaco. “The BR 01 watch, which is directly reminiscent of a cockpit clock, particularly speaks to me. This cake is a faithful reproduction of the timepiece in pastry, and can be found in the window of my new boutique in Nice.”

So here’s how you can have your watch, and eat it. Chocolate, caramel, cake and a BR-CAL.210 calibre. Sounds like sweet heaven to me.

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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

INTERNATIONAL

INTERNATIONAL

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dr. Woo Roger Dubuis gets fresh ink on its Excalibur Monobalancier from renowned tattoo artist Dr. Woo

F

ollowing the success of their Monotourbillon collaboration in 2021, LA’s most sought-after tattoo artist Dr. Woo has Roger Dubuis back in the chair for another session of cosmic, art-

ful horology. Limited to 28 pieces, this time around the master inker has sprinkled his stardust on a creation named the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monobalancier, its complex ceramic surfaces providing the perfect canvas for some intergalactic art. With signature ultra-fine linework characterising his craft, Dr Woo’s attention to detail mirrors that of Roger Dubuis’s perfectionism in horology. A night sky of components spirals on the dial, where the sun, earth and moon spin in perfect harmony.

“Within this design, we were able to contemplate the way time moves in our galaxy, as our own Solar System is such an incredible place of enduring rhythms and shifting patterns,” says Dr. Woo. “With their one-of-a-kind ‘Hyper Horology’ approach, Roger Dubuis delivered a truly powerful and innovative platform for our creativity to flow.”

At 42mm and powered by the performance-renowned automatic RD720SQ calibre, this Poinçon de Genève-certified timepiece is a masterclass in durability and intricacy. And as permanent as ink on skin, it’s sure to find a full-time place in any enthusiast’s collection.

Frédéric Jouvenot

INTERNATIONAL

With Frédéric Jouvenot’s new releases the master watchmaker slims down

H

e’s almost a space-time anomaly himself — Frédéric Jouvenot, a young, pioneering watchmaker of the ilk often reminisced about as products of times past, is one of the most forward-thinking horologers working today. Start-

ing out with his Concepto manufacture, producing movements for big-name brands out of the hallowed watchmaking ground of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Frédéric founded his own eponymous brand two years later in 2008, allowing him to do precisely whatever he’d like. And boy, has he. With each of his timepieces uniquely built to order — his clients have a ‘dulce espera’ of three months between ordering and receiving their timepiece — you can bet your bottom dollar that a Frédéric Jouvenot is worth the wait. And with the release of the brand’s exquisite Helios Albedo and Helios Carbon in brand new cases, there’s even more reason to love them. A reimagination of the original 44mm case, these 42mm versions have a more subtle, sleeker feel — but with no loss of the original majesty and mystery of the previous size. The signature ‘jumping cage’, with twelve colour-changing pyramids indicating the hour and a central rotating disc showing the seconds, is still in full effect, while the choice of gold on titanium or red on pitch black DLC lies with the wearer. Refined lugs, increased dial opening and enhanced caseback visibility all give these new versions a touch of finesse that’s undoubtedly welcome as timepieces trend to the more dainty side. But this is still a work of art sure to make a statement on any wrist — at any time.

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Gentlemen’s style RACHEL SILVESTRI

Made to measure

A centre of bespoke Italian chic in the UAE, Officina Italiana promises to nip and tuck your look to polished perfection — along with every other aspect of your luxury lifestyle.

T

36

ucked away in Gate Avenue at DIFC, there’s

leather and materials. Once we have worked with our

a little corner of Italy making big waves on

customers to decide on fabrics and styling, all our

the local style scene. Dedicated to bring-

products are tailor-made in Italy with only the very

ing that famously polished yet understated

highest quality materials.”

lusso to the Middle East, Officina Italiana specialises

Founded by serial entrepreneur Roshin Abdul Rah-

in what fashion influencers love to call ‘old-money

man following his years spent studying fashion and

style’ — fash without the flash, a look that whispers

marketing in the Italian fashion capital of Milan,

effortless quality, luxury and confidence. Whether at

Officina Italiana’s materials suppliers include some

its flagship store or in a private home or office con-

of the catwalk’s best-known names — with the added

sultation with Officina Italiana’s style consultant,

dimension of those very fabrics being used for made-

the business is selling panache at a premium. But for

to-measure items exclusive to the customer who

those in the know, it’s worth every penny.

dreamed them up.

“It’s a boutique for classic gentlemen, where we

“We work with brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna,

take care of all aspects of luxury, from the suit, to the

Loro Piana and Ariston, Artico in Bologna supplies

shirt, to the shoes and accessories to the leather prod-

our leather and exotic skins such as crocodile and

ucts,” says Davide Trombini, brand ambassador and

python for jackets, and we also produce vicuña coats

manager at Officina Italiana. “It’s for very high-pro-

amongst many other things,” says Trombini. “We

file people who understand the quality of the fabrics,

also work in the world of super-custom-made shoes

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Officina Italiana’s flagship Gate Avenue DIFC store has a private members’ club feel and serves as a hub for those with a refined sense of taste.

and Arabic sandals, also with a variety of calfskin and exotic leath-

“This isn’t a brand that just makes suits, clothes and shirts,” says

ers, as well as working in the bag world to produce accessories from

Trombini. “It’s a company that takes luxury the full 360 degrees.

alligator skin and other luxurious materials.”

We create and supply bespoke furniture for your home, we work on

So what can be made from all these sumptuous silks, wools and

watches with Zannetti, and we also have an assortment of women’s

skins? Handmade suits, from tuxedo to wedding, ensure a perfect

products too, be it handmade suits or customised leather bags and

fit every time. Bespoke shirts boast all manner of touches and flour-

accessories. This is what makes the difference. Officina Italiana

ishes to make them as unique as their wearer, while every stitch of

means experiencing service that gives you everything in the luxury

each custom leather jacket is engineered to create a flattering sil-

world, with no limits. And being part of Officina Italiana is to also

houette that oozes elegance.

be part of our network and the exceptional events that we create.”

Then come the accessories — for shoes, traditional fitting, stitch-

A hugely important aspect of the bespoke process is the in-store

ing and leathercraft techniques craft a perfect glove-like fit that

experience, and Officina Italiana has that covered too. Muted light-

can’t be replicated any other way. A carefully curated collection of

ing, masculine décor and a warm Italian welcome give the flagship

bags and luggage items seals the deal, completing the look and,

store a luxe, private gentleman’s club feel that’s as much social hub

more importantly, the feel of a fully realised and perfectly person-

as it is shopping haven. But at the end of the day, fit and fabric is

alised ensemble.

everything — and with its finely considered selection of brands,

But the work doesn’t stop there. Much more than solely crafting

meticulous styling, attention to detail and the quality that only

fashion statements, Officina Italiana has its eye on any aspect of

world-renowned Italian artisans can provide, Officina Italiana’s

your life that can benefit from some luxe spit and polish.

approach to la dolce vita is as sweet and tasteful as can be.

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WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023

The week that was The dust has settled, and everyone’s caught up on some sleep… So with the beauty of hindsight, how was the Watches and Wonders 2023 experience for the brands exhibiting? GMT GCC catches up with some of the top horological players to find out what made the heart of this year’s fair tick.

RACHEL SILVESTRI

Guido Terreni CEO, Parmigiani Fleurier

How would you sum up the Watches and Wonders 2023 experi-

all been done. I don’t believe that — I think that if you have the ideas

ence for Parmigiani Fleurier?

and the courage to go for them, you can do many things and that’s

It was a great fair for us. I know that every CEO says that when it’s

what independent brands are doing, because you have the freedom

over, but what we are experiencing is really exceptional. It’s diffi-

to really explore. That’s what I really love about being independent

cult to find the words to describe the scale of the excitement that we

and having the creativity and mastering the craft, because that way

have. There is a real reactivation — last year was the first year that

you can master your destiny. So the Minute Ratrappante for sure is

the brand took part in Watches and Wonders after the pandemic,

the most relevant in my opinion.

and it was the unveiling of the Tonda PF to the whole world. We

As for the competition, it was an interesting week! I always look

had launched at Geneva Watch Days in 2021, but it was a smaller

at what’s relevant, I’m not really keen on exceptional things that

environment with fewer people travelling due to Covid still being

are unique pieces. What’s interesting to observe in this industry is

around. So in 2022 the brand exploded, and this year was the confir-

that you have many, many new launches every year. But then what

mation, because in 2023 we continued to be able to excite through

you remember, two or three years after that, is probably a hand-

innovation and consistency. There’s really a big following for Parmi-

ful of watches or even less. So I would say I was impressed by the

giani Fleurier from watch afficionados and people who are educated

IWC Ingenieur restyling because it’s very difficult to restyle design,

in watchmaking, so it was a great week. I always love the fair, for

and to improve it, especially when it comes from Gerald Genta. So

me it’s the most important moment of the year, it’s exciting and

I think they did very good work, especially with the case and the

there’s adrenaline pumping. You don’t sleep for the whole week,

bracelet integration. I think that Christoph [Grainger-Herr, CEO of

you sleep the three days after, but it doesn’t matter because it’s fun

IWC Schaffhausen] did a good job there. Congratulations.

and it’s great to feel the response — which, this time, has been completely overwhelming.

What was the most significant trend you spotted amongst the new releases?

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What, for you, was the best launch?

The trend that’s been in for a while, and is really everlasting,

I’m very proud of what we are doing, and I would say that the most

remains the versatility of the sport chic segment. It remains very

important innovation that we did is the Tonda PF Minute Ratrap-

hot and has been since the Royal Oak, I would say in 1972. The hype

pante, after the GMT Rattrapante last year which was a bit of a sur-

is probably starting to go down on certain models but it’s still very

prise for everyone. But in our minds it was a philosophy of design-

attractive and is still very suited for today’s way of life, which is less

ing complications that are intuitive, easy and new. So the world

formal than before. However, there is a quest for more classic execu-

premiere is a theme we are looking forward to dig into. I don’t

tions, I saw it at Rolex with the 1908, or the way of rejuvenating

imagine we can come up with a world premiere every year, but it’s

the Calatrava from Patek Philippe, and you have many examples of

really about moving the boundaries of watchmaking and having

trying to add to the metal bracelet version. Something that is more

the courage to do things that have never been done, and refusing

dressy or more classic. To me, the way to do it in an innovative way

the idea that in watchmaking you can’t reinvent things because it’s

is not yet nailed, so we will see evolutions in that trend.

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This was the first Watches and Wonders open to the public —

really worn out by the end of the weekend. But I was really surprised

how did that change things?

because I come from 20 years of Baselworld, and that was open to

I think it’s a great thing that Watches and Wonders has opened up.

the public, but the public knew that they would be browsing the

I was surprised by the response because I think it was over 12,000

windows unless you had an appointment with somebody. Here the

people visited in the weekend, so it was really something. It was

expectation was different, with the feel of more of a private fair,

really brilliant to see the excitement, and what I was really excited

so the public was expecting to touch and feel the product which in

about was that the average age of the visitors was 35 years old. It

Basel was not the case. Next year we will try to be better!

confirmed that even young people in their 20s, of which we saw many, were excited about mechanical and luxury watches and they

Did you go to any of the legendary Watches and Wonders par-

were very knowledgeable. I took an elevator with two young gen-

ties or dinners?

tlemen in their 20s who were talking about watches, brands, and

Not this year, unfortunately — my agenda was fully booked!

they were excited. It was a fresh look at a customer who’s probably not yet a customer, but who has an interest that is growing, and

Any memorable moments from Watches and Wonders 2023?

for sure they will they will dig into a passion that’s just beginning

Well, you know the fair is very busy and hectic, and people are in

now. You hear comments that are, I wouldn’t say naïve, but they

demand, like Wei Koh who was the moderator for our keynote panel

are fresh. It was fun to stay quiet and listen to them, really fun. And

on Cultural Calendars [the Tonda PF collection includes a limited

then having them visit the booth was also great.

group of three sets of calendar watches, displaying Islamic, Grego-

Unfortunately, from our side, I must say that we were not really

rian and Chinese variations]. He arrived literally at three o’clock,

prepared because I think we could have done better in welcoming

precisely at the moment the panel was due to begin — he didn’t

people. And for sure next year we will work on how to give that

even stop walking, he just went straight to the stage, took the mic

experience, because it’s not easy from a security point of view.

and started talking! I had been texting him, and I have to say I was a

You need a lot of people and we’re not a big brand, so our staff was

little stressed in that moment… He made it, and just in time!

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WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023

Carlos Rosillo CEO, Bell & Ross

How would you sum up the Watches and Wonders 2023

trendy to be bold about what we wear, to try colours. It is

experience for Bell & Ross?

also noticeable that people are looking for meaningful

Watches and Wonders 2023 was a great success for the

pieces, and colours are never a coincidence. The blue and

House. By being one of the main brands exhibiting for the

green we chose for our BR 03-93 GMT BLUE and BR GREEN

show, we were able to establish ourselves in the watchmak-

GOLD are particularly meaningful to us. We saw a lot of cop-

ing landscape. We met journalists from all over the world

per dials, for an example.

and introduced our collections to many enthusiasts and professionals in the sector.

This was the first Watches and Wonders open to the public — how did that change things?

What, for you, was the best launch?

It was our first time at Watches and Wonders, so we organ-

We were very proud of the success of the BR 03-92 GMT BLUE.

ised our stand according to this change. As such, the main

For the launches of the other brands, I don’t think any one

‘challenge’, while thinking of the stand’s construction and

of them is better than the other, they are all impressive and

layout, was to keep in mind that it wouldn’t be only for

unique in their own way. Some because of their originality,

watch experts but also for passionate people who were here

their colour, others because of the technicality of the move-

to discover our universe and see beautiful timepieces. How-

ment. They are all very inspiring.

ever, we were delighted to be able to show our stand and our House to the general public.

What was the most significant trend you spotted

40

amongst the new releases?

Did you go to any of the legendary Watches and Wonders

I think the trend this year is really to go for colours. Watches

parties or dinners?

are not as necessary as they used to be, we have plenty of

I enjoyed going for dinner with my team and unexpectedly

accessories to give us the time, so watches have become a

bumping into my friends from the industry: FP Journe, who

real accessory and a jewel. As with every accessory, they

I get along with and respect so much, and Michael Tay and

reveal a part of our personality, a mood, and I think it is

his team from Singapore’s The Hour Glass.

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RACHEL SILVESTRI

Fatemeh Laleh

International Director of Communication & Images, Piaget

How would you sum up the Watches and Wonders 2023 experience for Piaget?

As a momentum. A momentum for the brand because it was the first time that we were truly showing Piaget’s new strategy under Benjamin Comar’s helm, and a coherent vision between products, marketing, communication and the stand in itself. It was a true experience for us and for the watch enthusiasts who have always had a special bond with Piaget.

What, for you, was the best launch?

For us, our Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar with an obsidian dial. A limited edition of 18 pieces, that’s already sold out, it demonstrates the Piaget DNA of ‘jewellers of time’ with its distrinctive ornamental stone dial.

What was the most significant trend you spotted amongst the new releases?

The watch necklaces, that at Piaget we call Swinging Sautoirs. We were happily surprised to spot other necklaces from other brands. At Piaget, this trend has been here since the 1960s and is here to stay.

This was the first Watches and Wonders open to the public — how did that change things?

It was amazing to meet a wider audience, people who already knew the brand and wanted to know more, while others were discovering it for the first time.

Did you go to any of the legendary Watches and Wonders parties or dinners?

We had our cocktail party every night at our booth, with lively music and a party atmosphere. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time to enjoy anything else!

Any memorable moments from Watches and Wonders 2023?

A funny moment was when George Bamford and his TV crew barged into the booth to film a segment. A memorable moment? Definitely when Mr Yves Piaget came to see our booth and stayed all day meeting his fans and our Taiwanese ambassador Edward Chen.

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41

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023 RACHEL SILVESTRI

Sandrine Donguy Product Marketing and Innovation Director, Vacheron Constantin

How would you sum up the Watches and Wonders 2023 experi-

This was the first Watches and Wonders open to the public —

ence for Vacheron Constantin?

how did that change things?

Overall, I would say it was pleasant, fun and surprising, as none

What’s really interesting for our clientele is that we had an oppor-

of our clientele or the media were expecting the way that we con-

tunity with this exhibition to get in touch with them in a different

nected a story throughout the different collections, which was

way. When we are in the boutique, it’s a rather corporate ambience

something quite creative in the way we expressed things this time.

for the expression of different facets of the collection. Here, we focussed on one message, and it was another way to express our

What, for you, was the best launch?

creativity to our clientele with a specific focus and to be very cre-

On a personal note I will comment on the Overseas Self-Winding,

ative in the way we displayed our timepieces.

with new models in pink gold and steel with a 35mm diameter for the gem-set versions and 34.5mm for non-set versions. It comes in

Any memorable moments from Watches and Wonders 2023?

below the 41mm of the current version, and reinterprets the classic

Many of our journalists and partners were waiting for a variation

Overseas codes while keeping the essence of a casual and sports-

on the yellow gold 222 that we presented last year, which was a per-

chic timepiece.

fect choice considering the year. It was so popular and it was really under the spotlight. But it was such an obvious choice, for us to

What was the most significant trend you spotted amongst the

come up with a second variation around the 222, that we decided

new releases?

to take another way around by focusing on the story of the sporty

There’s a trend in luxury to play with versatility, changing the out-

chic Overseas and the retrograde complication, which also formed

fit and the style. So the Overseas Self-Winding is delivered with

a connection with our heritage.

two different strap materials to reflect this — rubber and calfskin — allowing the wearer to change the strap on their own with a simple, fast and easy system, adapting the watch to their look.

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RACHEL SILVESTRI

Oliver Ebstein CEO, Chronoswiss

How would you sum up the Watches and Wonders

This was the first Watches and Wonders open to the

2023 experience for Chronoswiss?

public — how did that change things?

Our inaugural participation at Watches & Wonders has

We greatly enjoyed being directly in touch with watch

been a thrilling and rewarding experience, allowing us

connoisseurs from all over the world. The feedback and

to proudly present our brand and creations to a wide audi-

shared passion for our ‘modern mechanical’ timepieces

ence and stand alongside the world’s most prestigious

was overwhelming for us and is proof that we are on the

watch brands.

right track.

What, for you, was the best launch?

Did you go to any of the legendary Watches and Won-

For our 40th anniversary, we reinvented an icon, show-

ders parties or dinners

casing all our capabilities and ushering in a new era: the

Despite our small team occasionally sacrificing parties

Delphis Oracle. At Watches and Wonders, I especially

for business meetings, we are grateful to be part of the

enjoyed witnessing the exciting novelties from indepen-

lively watch world in Geneva and cherished the dinners

dent watchmakers, all creating their own unique buzz in

with collectors and friends throughout the week.

the industry.

Any memorable moments from Watches and WonWhat was the most significant trend you spotted

ders 2023?

amongst the new releases?

The lasting memories include the team spirit, sharing our

We are a non-conformist watchmaker, creating one-of-a-

passion for handcraft, and the smiles on the faces of our

kind timepieces for individuals who seek to differentiate

partners. Witnessing the growth of Chronoswiss is akin

themselves from mainstream trends. With limited edi-

to watching our children grow and make an impact on

tions and a commitment to innovation, you can always

the world. Watches and Wonders was certainly a proud

expect the unexpected from us as we push boundaries

milestone, but it signifies only the start of our exciting

and redefine true luxury.

journey together.

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43

PATRICK PRUNIAUX, CEO Ulysse Nardin & Girard-Perregaux

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Exhibitors to be or not to be

Why exhibit at Watches and Wonders, or outside of it, or not at all? Six executives discuss their strategy as a page is turned following the extinction of the Baselworld mammoth.

44

THEY’VE CHOSEN TO STAY

You see the entire industry within a very short space of

A child of the SIHH (Waches and Wonders’s previ-

time; you emerge smarter and better informed, ready to

ous name), Panerai has been exhibiting there since its

take any corrective actions.”

rebirth at the dawn of the third millennium. Current

At the helm of Zenith since 2017 and previously at

CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué is a regular at the show, in

Vacheron Constantin, Julien Tornare has experienced

which he previously participated as the head of Mont-

both Baselworld and the SIHH. As far as he’s concerned,

blanc and Roger Dubuis. “The SIHH has always been a

“the shows unquestionably continue to play an impor-

pioneer in terms of the theatricality, hospitality and pre-

tant role in the watch industry. They are the best oppor-

mium approach that contributed to its magic, especially

tunity to see all our partners in a short period of time

in the excitement of the opening. It’s a rendezvous with

and above all to express and sell the brand and its ethics

teams from all countries, who have been focusing on it

to all industry stakeholders through our booth concept,

for months and this guiding thread has changed little

our marketing concept and the experiences we offer dur-

over the past quarter-century.” He is pleased that Geneva

ing and around the show. We have, however, found in

is now the world’s one and only watchmaking capital

recent years that launching new products in a staggered

and that public health conditions allow everyone to par-

manner is also hugely successful in terms of maintain-

ticipate. “This is a barometer of activity and a project

ing momentum. I firmly believe that the best solution is

accelerator because the deadline cannot be pushed back.

a combination of trade shows such as W&W and LVMH

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Watch Week, along with regular launches ensuring continuous communication with the press, retailers, customers and friends of the brand.”

Patrick Pruniaux experienced Baselworld and the SIHH as CEO of both Girard-Perregaux (GP) and Ulysse Nardin (UN), and now chooses to exhibit at Watches and Wonders for UN, but for now not with GP, “which is investing a lot in its manufacture and customer experience and is in a phase where shows are not relevant”. He nonetheless remains convinced of the usefulness of trade shows and is in fact one of the co-founders of Geneva Watch Days. “We are an industry that sells small products; and being able to exhibit them across hundreds of square metres enables us to convey a message with more impact than in a boutique. Ulysse Nardin is a brand channeling a form of opulence, a rich message and technical complexity, which are very well expressed in a show.”

ANTOINE PIN, Managing director, Bulgari Watch Division

DURING WATCHES AND WONDERS, BUT BEYOND ITS WALLS Bulgari, whose group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin founded the Geneva Watch Days when the demise of Baselworld was announced, welcomes customers and media during Watches and Wonders at the Hotel Président Wilson. Antoine Pin, head of the watch division, describes the disappearance of Baselworld — where the brand’s booth stood majestically at the entrance — as a big bang moment. “We are not yet fully aware of the repercussions of this game change, but there was a modus operandi between Basel and Geneva that worked well year after year, focusing all the attention. This implosion released a lot of energy, giving rise to many smaller initiatives, better distributed in time and space.” He notes

JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ, CEO Panerai

JULIEN TORNARE, CEO Zenith

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TIM MALACHARD, Marketing director Richard Mille

ANTONIO CALCE, CEO & executive board member, Greubel Forsey

that the activity and dynamism of luxury watchmaking

“In 2009, we had five boutiques and 120 retailers,

has become much more visible, year-round and around

whereas now we have 39 boutiques and no more retai-

the world. “In addition to the watchmaking events that

lers; it is the end customers that we want to reach and

have grown in magnitude, such as the GPHG and Only

investments have been redirected, particularly towards

Watch that give brands international visibility, the

digital and our own events. We want to get to know

efforts made by the latter offer watchmaking many more

them better and understand them, to spend time with

moments of exposure than in the past. Whereas the

them. We have adapted and are conducting our opera-

major generalist media used to summarize the entire

tions in a much more personalized way.”

Baselworld event in two to three pages, they now cover

Also present in the past at SIHH, Greubel Forsey has

watch news much more regularly. This has particularly

set its sights on new horizons for the past two years

benefited the small independent brands, which no

under the leadership of Antonio Calce (CEO and execu-

longer remain in the shadow of the Baselworld giants.

tive board member), who himself had previously exhib-

Antoine Pin explains that Bulgari has adapted to this

ited as the head of other brands at both Baselworld and

new situation by unveiling new products on a quarterly

SIHH. “We have found that our customers need time to

basis, which does not justify a presence at Watches and

discover our timepieces. At Greubel Forsey, there is no

Wonders. “There is no longer a gap between the com-

logic of presenting merely to sell, but instead talking

munication and the market, a situation that is far more

about the brand and its developments over the next few

coherent for the media as well as for clients.”

years. Our role is to share a passion, an experience, to explain our approach to the development of our inven-

WHY THEY LEFT THE TRADE FAIRS

tions, our finishes… Rather than to participate in an

Avant-garde and non-conformist Richard Mille sur-

event to take orders. Being a niche brand, we are looking

prised everyone in 2018 by announcing its intention to

for a different kind of customer relationship. The fact of

leave the SIHH. It also did so by participating in the first

going to meet clients on the markets, in collaboration

ReLuxury show in 2022, thereby supporting the brand’s

with the partner, gives us much more time and seren-

ongoing development in the field of pre-owned watches.

ity to present the brand philosophy and vision. We offer

As marketing director Tim Malachard explains, the

them a time of sharing, which is difficult to do at trade

game has changed.

shows where schedules are very busy.”

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47

Innovation DAVID CHOKRON

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Amida Falls

The only ones in

the world Rowing against the tide of standardisation and rejecting mass production, one-of-a-kind watches are becoming increasingly popular.

A

ccording to watch retailers, their customers all want the same thing. Sporty-chic watches from well-known brands that can’t be found in boutiques. Prestigious grand complications backed by a narrative of historical legitimacy. Neo-vintage with a ‘tool watch’ twist. All with an unfortunate tendency to converge in

terms of style, size and colour. Nonetheless, a fringe group of enlightened buyers refuses all things generic and monotone. They want watches that reflect themselves in every way, and have a very specific idea in mind. They want a one-of-a-kind model.

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PATEK PHILIPPE Golden Ellipse 5738/50G-023 Zebras

JACOB & CO. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Unheated Rubies

THE RAREST Brands have long understood that the absence of reproduction is an asset. That is what drives Only Watch, whose 2023 edition is on the horizon. There are numerous Maisons that create watches with such a level of complexity or rarity that the object simply cannot be repeated. When Jacob & Co. manages to assemble 351 unheated baguette-cut rubies of a uniform hue, and the final 35 carats required twice as much in terms of rough gems, one can well imagine that the Brilliant Flying Tourbillon they adorn represents a true feat. When Parmigiani Fleurier created its Les Roses Carrées ‘Collection Grand Feu’, the amount of work involved in engraving and enamelling was such that the brand wished to make just one of them in blue. 

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49

THE LONGEST WAIT A one-of-a-kind model is above all a matter of customisation and what buyers really want is to compose their watch like a bouquet: Vacheron Constantin adopts an approach midway between the two. Its Les Cabinotiers department offers its own creations and executes others to order. In one case, you have to be the first to whip out your chequebook; and

THE MOST SPECIAL

in the other, you have to accept delivery times that

The offer of single-edition timepieces applies to all

run into months or even years. Production time is

segments of watchmaking creation. Projects involv-

the core issue of ultra-exclusive watchmaking, rep-

ing artistic crafts are those most typically involved,

resenting the time required to insert a handcrafted

since production is in any case done on an individ-

unit into an industrial process that also happens to

ual basis. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the specialist in this

be currently saturated.

field with its Reverso, while Bovet and Louis Vuitton offer customisation of their products, which are not always the most sophisticated. Jacob & Co. regularly makes a timepiece that an individual has put together based on the existing catalogue. As for Jaquet Droz, the brand has quite simply withdrawn from series-produced watches to focus solely on special orders — and KF Masterpieces’s philosophy was to only produce completely unique timepieces from the very beginning.

JAQUET DROZ Dragon Automate

50

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

LOUIS VUITTON Jacquemart Minute Repeater ‘200 Years’

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL The desire to meet a customer’s wishes is a philosophy. Cartier discreetly continues to do the same with

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Les Roses Carrées ‘Collection Grand Feu’ Rosa Celeste

watches as it does with its jewellery. In addition to its one-off Rare Handcrafts editions, Patek Philippe allows select clients to obtain off-catalogue creations. Hublot accepts new variations on its jewellery timepieces, provided it is worth the effort. A richly gemset watch is thus imbued with haute joaillerie values in terms of both exclusivity and style. Whether a paving of precious stones, a bezel lit up by baguette-cut gems or a case adorned with orange sapphires, these creations always require individual care. That’s just as well, as ultragemset watches are currently enjoying significant momentum.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

KF MASTERPIECES 08-M00

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51

My time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Taste sensation

His devilishly good cuisine is famed the world over — but does this kitchen hard man have a softer side? GMT GCC talks dishes, destinations and a thousand-piece collection of Mickey Mouse watches with MasterChef judge and Demon Duck chef Alvin Leung.

“

52

I

t’s my first time in Saudi, and it’s interesting,”

my openings it’s so important to have the right partner

says Chef Alvin Leung, en route to Jeddah airport.

and the right support. I’ve had lots of openings — and

He’s a difficult man to pin down, with his fingers

lots of closings as well. But really, I’m open to opportuni-

in so many figurative and literal pies. But fresh

ties absolutely anywhere. Given the right opportunity I’d

from a guest takeover one long weekend in June

open in Antarctica!”

at the Shangri-La Jeddah, he’s relaxed and ready to chat.

That’s easy to believe. After starting out as an engineer,

“Saudi is still at a very early stage but I can see a lot of

the British-born Hong Kong-Canadian chef changed tack

things happening. It’s probably going to be very hectic

and opened his first eatery, Bo Innovation, in Hong Kong

eventually! But it’s still early days. That’s just what I’m

before blazing a trail throughout Asia and beyond. After

observing — but I do see it coming on very quickly.”

receiving two Michelin stars in Hong Kong and Macau’s

Something of a global sensation, one is tempted to

inaugural Michelin Guide in 2009 — later upgraded to

take the chef’s predictions very seriously. From the estab-

three in 2014 — Alvin opened Bo London in 2012, with

lished foodie capitals of London and Singapore to devel-

further restaurants in multiple cuisine styles popping up

oping scenes such as Shanghai, Alvin has tried his hand

in Toronto, Taipei, Singapore, Malaysia and even further

in a multitude of markets. So what led him to open his

afield. So as a prolific creator unafraid to push boundar-

first Middle Eastern restaurant, Demon Duck, at Dubai’s

ies and experiment, how has Alvin shaped his cuisine to

Caesar’s Palace last year?

help Demon Duck appeal to a Middle Eastern audience?

“I was looking for different opportunities, because

“What differentiates it is that the menu was developed

I already have a presence in the Far East and China, in

specifically for the Middle East — the flavour profiles and

Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia and so on,” says Alvin.

the offering was considered culturally as the number one

“I wanted to see what the market was like in the Middle

priority,” comments the chef. “The taste involves a lot of

East. I had an offer from Anthony Costa [regional presi-

flavours coming in from other parts of Asia, so there’s a

dent] from Caesar’s Palace Dubai, who I’ve worked with

lot of variety which I think Middle Eastern people enjoy.

before and who I know well, and as I’ve learned from all

There are one or two dishes inspired by Middle Eastern

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

“The menu was developed specifically for the Middle East’’ Chef Alvin Leung, Demon Duck

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53

From the elegant surroundings and complex flavours of Demon Duck to the whimsy of the chef ’s watch collection, he’s a man of many sides.

54

cuisine, but to be perfectly honest those kinds of

“The whole industry has changed — things like the

mixes aren’t always successful. ‘Hey, let me do a

business districts no longer being so busy as people

hummus but Chinese style’ — nine times out of 10

work from home, people eating out less and having

those things don’t work! So instead of trying to incor-

more expenses due to cost of living. All these condi-

porate Middle Eastern ingredients into the meal, you

tions have an effect — as well as a lot of people hav-

should just incorporate the taste profile. That’s my

ing left the food industry, so now we have a shortage

technique all over the world. Find out what they like

of labour. Even the food has gone up in price due to

to eat in terms of the concentration of salt, sugar and

inflation. All these conditions have to be taken into

acidity and try to give it to them!”

account to remain sustainable, and by sustainable I

And it does seem that Alvin is successful at giving

mean profitable. But in this industry we face chal-

people what they want — both on their plates and on

lenges every day, whether they’re old or very new.”

their screens. From The Maverick Chef to his MasterChef

Speaking of old and new, there’s another part of

Canada success, as his profile has risen so has appetite

Alvin’s personality that isn’t as widely known as his

for expanding into ever more markets. So did Covid

enfant terrible image, once referred to by Anthony

put paid to his culinary dreams for a while?

Bourdain as a “dark eminence”. For all his black

“It’s been difficult for everyone,” says the chef.

chef’s ‘whites’ and rock‘n’roll style, the chef’s tastes

“The quarantines, lockdowns, the restrictions and

in watchmaking point to a softer side. After all, any-

the fear. The food and beverage industry suffered

one who avidly collects high end Mickey Mouse time-

greatly and is recovering quite slowly. I have restau-

pieces must have a keen sense of whimsy.

rants in the Far East, Middle East and North America,

Case after case of lovingly displayed backlit cabi-

and it’s been challenging due to a lot of factors. It’s

nets house Alvin’s massive collection, while in his

not just that we are in a recovery stage — we are in a

head he holds an encyclopaedia of every officially

rebirth stage.

licensed Disney timepiece. With watches including

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

‘holy trinity’ pieces on top of the multitude of Mick-

hits. But Chef Alvin is quick to point out that Mickey

eys, it’s a collection to draw gasps — but Alvin doesn’t

Mouse goes well beyond any one brand or designer:

take himself too seriously.

“Yes, I am a big Genta fan and I do possess quite a few

“I am a watch collector,” says the chef, before

of his very unique pieces. But the first Mickey Mouse

uttering the understatement of the year. “ I wouldn’t

watch was made in 1933 and launched at the Chicago

say I’m a fanatic, but I do have good knowledge of

Word’s Fair by Ingersoll, and another brand famous

what’s going on in the collection world.”

for its Mickey timepieces is Bulova Accutron — they

It’s at this point that Alvin goes into his unbe-

have one of the earliest ‘adult’, expensive Mickey

lievable knowledge, built up over the past 40 years

watches. In the 1970s a Bulova Accutron carried more

of collecting. Casually throwing names, dates and

or less the same price as a Rolex Daytona, so it was

numbers around with gay abandon, this is the very

all relative. And the first brand to make what you

definition of a fanatic, and it’s a pleasure to hear him

could really call a high-end Disney watch was Baume

talk. From how many watches the high-end brands

& Mercier, who made them in the 1970s. Rolex don’t

produce each year to production quality, this is a man

make a sanctioned Disney watch, but Bamford Watch

who knows his industry secrets — “I know a lot more

Department made one from a Milgauss, which was

than you thought I did, huh!” he laughs — and who

sanctioned. All I’m interested in is what we call WDP

clearly takes an interest in all aspects of watchmak-

— Walt Disney Production. If it’s not officially sanc-

ing. But there’s definitely one style that he prizes

tioned by Disney then I don’t want to see it.”

above all others.

It’s a very specific niche to become involved in,

“I have about a thousand Mickey Mouse watches,”

especially to the extent of being one of, if not the,

confesses Alvin. “I have what’s probably the biggest

world’s biggest collector. So what is it about Mickey

collection of Mickey Mouse watches in the world.”

Mouse watches that grabbed Alvin in the first place?

So wouldn’t that make Alvin a Gérald Genta fan?

It seems that his reasoning goes well beyond any cute

After all, the master designer had plenty of Mickey

factor: “I am a mechanical engineer, an engineer by

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55

Embark on an intriguing culinary journey at Demon Duck, where flavours and ambience unite in an unforgettable dining experience.

56

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Demon Duck’s atmospheric surroundings evoke the mystery and majesty of Chef Alvin’s cuisine.

‘‘I do have other types of watches in my collection: Patek Philippes, APs and Vacherons. There are a few brands that I don’t have, but I don’t want to be controversial!’’

trade — so if you were to ask why I collect Mickey Mouse

“I do have other types of watches in my collection: Patek

watches in favour of, say, Rolex? If you look at the watch

Philippes, APs and Vacherons. There are a few brands that

itself, it’s definitely a marketing tool that really got it

I don’t have, but again, I don’t want to be controversial!”

started. Pure marketing. Probably similar to a brand like

From sharing memories of wearing his father’s gold

Richard Mille, where there’s a lot of marketing. You can

Rolex to his prom, and receiving a Seiko with a manual

ask, are those watches worth a million dollars? I don’t

alarm at 16 years old — he’s 63 now — to choosing a Cartier

want to be controversial but I do want to be logical.

Santos over a Rolex Oyster with zero regrets after gradu-

“So am I collecting watches because of status, because

ating high school, Alvin’s watch memories run deep in

of investment, or in terms of art? Why Mickey Mouse?

his psyche. And there’s one more timepiece moment that

First of all, it’s the most iconic watch in the world. I

stays clear in his mind.

think everybody has seen one, everyone knows it. The

“Everybody of a certain age remembers where they were

most famous reference is from Tom Hanks in the Da Vinci

when they heard Elvis Presley had died,” says Alvin. “And

Code series, while Johnny Carson and Karen Carpenter

where was I? In front of Swatch in Toronto!”

also famously wore them. I do have a Mickey Mouse that belonged to Karen Carpenter in my collection.”

So what’s on Alvin’s wrist today? Surely it’s got to have something to do with a mouse!

Speaking to this ‘demon’ chef is nothing short of a pleasure. Witty, fascinating and down-to-earth, it’s clear to see why his success has spanned both restaurant and TV. A magnetic personality with talent in spades, could it be

“Yes, a Mickey Mouse Seiko made in the mid 1980s, lim-

that this kitchen devil is actually a bit of an angel on the

ited edition of 500, solid 14 carat gold, with a mother-of-

quiet? Surely a trip to Demon Duck is in order to find out

pearl face — the first generation to have it,” says Alvin.

— just don’t forget your Mickey Mouse watch.

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57

In the workshop of...

JORDY BELLIDO

Van Cleef & Arpels The artisan with the magic touch

D

esigning timepieces such as those emerging from Van Cleef & Arpels’s workshops is no small feat, given the different artistic crafts required to create each and every watch. Collaboration appears to be the key word in the intricate work

of creating dreams and Van Cleef surrounds itself with the finest artisans, including François Junod, the automaton specialist who won the Special Jury Prize at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Once again this year, this craftsman is bringing his expertise to bear on enchanting Haute Joaillerie automata, such as the Éveil du Cyclamen and the Floraison du Nénuphar, which took between two and a half and three years to create.

58

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

An unrivalled master in the art of the ‘Poetry of Time’, Van Cleef & Arpels serves as a messenger of emotions and its workshops contain a skilled blend of craftsmanship and technical expertise.

Automaton Éveil du Cyclamen

Automaton Floraison du Nénuphar

At Van Cleef & Arpels, techniques are dedicated to serving the stories being told. Rainer Bernard, Head of R&D for timepieces, compares this to “an opera, where you only see the stage with the singer, while all the rest is hidden in the wings”. Gemsetting, sculpting, engraving and miniature painting are all used to enhance the tales from the Maison. In addition to these crafts, enamel work is carried out by artisans in Les Ateliers de Van Cleef & Arpels, situated in Geneva’s Meyrin municipality.

At Van Cleef & Arpels, techniques are dedicated to serving the stories being told.

THE ART OF ENAMELLING Enamelling is one of the stellar artistic crafts and takes many different forms at Van Cleef & Arpels, from grisaille enamel to the pliqueà-jour technique as well as champlevé and paillonné. Crowned Ladies’ Complication Watch at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Lady Féerie returns to the forefront in a shade of pink enamel.

In creating this previously unknown hue, Van Cleef & Arpels called upon its expertise to fine-tune the desired tones. Firing in the kiln represents a perilous moment in the process, as one second too long can cause irreversible damage to the colour. Not to mention the fact that one must be certain of the exact shade the enamel will take on when fired, as it can change completely. For example, the plique-àjour wings of the Lady Féerie require two minutes’ firing per enamel layer and call for the experienced touch of nimble fingers.

Montre Lady Féerie Or Rose

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59

Dossier: Sports RACHEL SILVESTRI

Summer of sport

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S

port and watchmaking are inextricably linked — without the need for measuring ever-increasing speed in motorsport we might never have seen the development and perfection of classic horological complications such as chrono-

graphs and flyback functions. And, likewise, where would elite sportsmen and women be without the split-second accuracy that only high-end timekeeping can provide? It’s with this in mind that GMT GCC dedicates this issue to the brilliance of top sportspeople and the watchmaking heroes who allow them to flourish. Summer’s here, and these

Image courtesy of Maïenga Sports Events

guys and gals are ready — are you?

»

Page 62: FIFA Women’s World Cup exclusive with

»

Page 66: Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc puts

Finland striker Ada Hegerberg daring women through their paces (pictured left) »

Page 72: UAE Team Emirates world tour cycling team shoots for victory, in style

»

Page 76: Fabian Cancellara talks Swiss precision exclusively for Tudor Pro Cycling Team

»

Page 80: The pride of the UAE, Manchester City lift the UEFA Champions League trophy

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

61

SUMMER OFSPORT

RACHEL SILVESTRI

All to play for

On the eve of the FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023, GMT GCC spoke with Finland’s Ada Hegerberg about the trials and triumphs of reaching the ultimate competition — for both players and fans.

W

62

e all remember the soaring highs and crashing

players and indeed of all women worldwide,” he all but pulled the

lows of 2022’s FIFA World Cup in Qatar — in fact,

plug on the matches being shown Europe-wide, saying he preferred

how could we forget? The tales of struggle, tri-

to remove European broadcasting privileges completely, rather

umph and victory against the odds made it a World

than see female players insulted by having their efforts devalued.

Cup for the ages, with Argentina finally taking their third star and

So what do the players, for whom many Europe is home turf, have

completing the dream of seeing Lionel Messi lift the trophy.

to say about a tournament blackout in their countries of origin?

But amid all the hyperbole and heartache, another group of pro-

No stranger to taking a stand for what she believes to be right

fessional footballers were still gearing up for their own ultimate

herself, Finland’s legendary captain and Hublot brand ambassador

tournament — and now, finally, their moment has come. The

Ada Hegerberg is heading to the 2023 World Cup in what will be her

final of the FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023, taking place in Australia

second appearance at the tournament. She missed the 2019 edition

and New Zealand, is rumbling ever closer. Still cresting the wave

due to having decided to stop appearing in the national squad two

of excitement whipped up by the success of the Women’s Euros in

years previously, in protest against the Norwegian Football Federa-

2022, elite female players the world over are hoping to put their best

tion and its treatment of women’s football. But ending her exile

boot forward while representing their countries.

in 2022, the Ballon D’Or winner re-joined the squad to score a hat-

But no World Cup is free from controversy, and this edition is no

trick against Kosovo in the World Cup qualifiers — and she’s back in

different. A kerfuffle surrounding the European broadcasting rights

fighting form. Fresh from the glory of becoming UEFA’s all-time top

for the tournament has been in the news since May this year, with

women’s goal scorer, we caught up with the Olympique Lyonnais

FIFA boss Gianni Infantino expressing his outrage at what he saw as

Féminin striker to talk all things World Cup — including her feel-

lowball offers from European broadcasters to show the tournament.

ings on the controversial broadcast row — as well as what Hublot

Calling it a “slap in the face of all the great FIFA Women’s World Cup

timepieces she’ll be taking with her on her journey down under.  

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63

‘‘Anything is possible if you put your heart in it! It’s an obvious one to say, but I always went with the mantra ‘believe in yourself ’, and it worked out pretty well for me.’’

ADA HEGERBERG, Finland national footballer and Hublot ambassador

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GMT GCC: The excitement is building for the 2023 FIFA Women’s

you have to say to the young players, both in Norway and the

World Cup — how are you feeling? Excited, nervous or a little

world over, who are watching you?

bit of both?

Anything is possible if you put your heart in it! It’s an obvious one

Ada: Right now it’s mostly excitement. I don’t usually get very ner-

to say, but I always went with the mantra ‘believe in yourself’,

vous until the last moments, it could be the day before a very big

and it worked out pretty well for me. It’s important that young

game, or a couple of hours before… But I think nervousness — and

girls and boys know that something out there is waiting for them

stress — are good things.

if they work hard for it.

Have you visited Australia and New Zealand before? Are you

It’s important that women’s football is taken seriously, both

looking forward to experiencing the destinations, or will your

for current players and future generations. FIFA says it is

focus be strictly on your matches?

making women’s football a priority, and we have already seen

I have never been to Australia nor New Zealand! So this will be a

the controversy with the European broadcasters as well as

first. I would love to say that I’ll enjoy what the countries have to

increasing the prize money by 300 per cent. How does it feel

offer, but the reality is that with everything we need to do, plus

to have this level of support from the world’s biggest football

games, time goes by so quickly that we don’t really get to enjoy any-

organisation? Or do you think there’s still more to be done?

thing. I’m also kind of a ‘bubble’ person. I get into my zone days

I’m not sure this is the right way to go, and I don’t feel this is

before a game, and I put all of my focus into it. That doesn’t leave

how you support or respect women’s football. Once again, we

too much for visiting, unfortunately.

are only talking about money, but it is so much more than that.

FIFA is a non-profit organisation, and all of a sudden it seems

Your journey to this World Cup has been a rollercoaster — first

that the money paid by broadcasters is the number one criteria

with your withdrawal from the Norwegian national squad in

for respecting women: it is not. I think we need a global vision.

2017, then a long-term injury, before getting back to form in

More than money, this World Cup needs exposure and women’s

2021, back to the national squad in time for the women’s Euros

football needs to be taken seriously in a lot of aspects. What’s

in 2022 and finally a spectacular finish this season as UEFA’s

best? To get €20 million out of every broadcasting deal, or to get

record-holding goal scorer. How are you feeling about your fit-

zero and for European people not to be able to watch a single

ness and condition heading into this tournament? How do you

second? I think we need to do a lot more, generally speaking for

feel about the Norwegian side as a whole?

women, youth, and amateur sports. I hope people in Europe will

It’s been a few interesting years for sure. I would have preferred not

be able to watch and that a solution that isn’t solely driven by

to go through some of the things you mentioned, but that’s life.

money will be found.

I was able to recover from my injury and I got to play a few games towards the end of the season, with a few trophies at stake. We will

Hublot have been with you every step of the way since you

have plenty of time to recover after the season is done, so I expect

first partnered with the brand in 2018. What timepieces will

to be in good health and fresh heading into this World Cup. I’m

you be bringing along with you to the World Cup?

confident but also realistic in what we can achieve. We need to be

I’ll definitely bring a couple of pieces over! Generally, when I’m

at the top of our game, individually, and as a team, if we want to

in a team setting, I like to wear something sporty and light, so

go anywhere.

generally a rubber strap watch. I have to say I’m in love with my newest Big Bang One Click Sapphire so that one is definitely com-

You’ll be providing inspiration for plenty of young footballers

ing with me! Being able to change the strap is a plus too. And

by representing your country at the highest level — what do

maybe a Big Bang e, to track the time difference back home.

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65

SUMMER OFSPORT

RACHEL SILVESTRI

Against all odds Images courtesy of Maïenga Sports Events

It’s an endurance race like no other — and for four women, competing together meant the world.

GMT GCC explores the unique challenge of the female-only Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc and how, with KF Masterpieces’ help, a family team overcame adversity to conquer it.

“I

would never have imagined, for a single second, being part

in the family, the women were moved to do something very spe-

of this adventure,” admits Caroline Contu, known to her

cial, side by side. Cousins by blood, now forged as sisters by their

friends as Caro, a resident of picturesque Garons, France in

shared experiences in the Moroccan wilderness, Sigrid Cardonnet,

her late 40s. The adventure she’s talking about is a gruel-

Audrey Roméro and Sonia Cammarata joined Caro along with 173

ling trans-Saharan rally, open only to female entrants and limited

more pairs of ‘Gazelles’ — how the women fearless enough to take

to the most basic of technology while traversing the sandy, stony

on this daring race are known.

expanses of western Morocco. So what kind of woman undertakes such a truly daring feat?

“I’m neither adventurous nor athletic by nature,” says Caro. “But I am a committed woman.”

66

Everyone’s reasons for joining such an adventure may be different, but once behind the wheels of their vehicles — whether 4X4, crossover, quad, truck, SSV or an electric or hybrid vehicle — they have the same goal. Travelling from the starting point in Nice and

It’s this commitment that brought not just Caro but three other

ending up in Morocco’s challenging landscapes, the Gazelles taking

members of her family together to take part in the Rallye Aïcha des

part in this rally must spend a week navigating their daily routes

Gazelles du Maroc, in two teams of two, supported by singular Swiss

without GPS or outside help, using only their cool heads under

watch manufacturer KF Masterpieces. Following serious illnesses

pressure to find the best path through the expanse of the Western

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc is a unique challenge — but its spectacular views make the hard times worth it.

Sahara that stretches out in front of them. Time isn’t a factor — Gazelles drive anywhere from eight to 12 hours per day, with points

“I got it into my head that leaving this life a little earlier than I’d planned was acceptable, given that the illness that has been following me for a few years now.

But I couldn’t let that happen without leaving an important impression both on myself and my daughters first.’’

awarded for those navigating the shortest route, and deducted for requesting assistance. And even though the race may take a physical toll, as with all endurance sports, the mental game can be even harder.

“I think the most intense moment was the eve of the rally, during the final checks in Nice,” says Sonia. “The mix of doubts, fear of not being able to set off because of a technical or mechanical problem, and excitement. And the sadness of having to leave our families, in spite of the motivation to finally achieve this challenge! It’s very moving, a real rollercoaster moment.”

Sonia is someone who knows a thing or two about ups and downs both physical and emotional — her fight against serious illness was one of the principal motivations for her and her cousins to join the Rallye, an act of solidarity as family and as women.

SONIA CAMMARATA, Rallye Gazelle

“Five years ago, I suffered a ruptured cerebral aneurysm,” shares Sonia. “A very painful ordeal, physically and psychologically. It took me three years to get over, and I still have some lasting effects such as fatigue and memory loss. But luck smiled on me, and allowed me to keep living!”

It was Sonia’s idea to put the teams together for the Rallye, seeking sponsorship from KF Masterpieces, forming a charitable organisation along with her cousins called Pour Eux, Pour Elles, and convincing them to join her for the epic journey. All teams taking

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67

The Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc is the only event of its kind run under the patronage of His Majesty King Mohammed VI of Morocco. It also has the support of the Monagesque royal family, with Princess Stéphanie of Monaco, pictured below right at the race’s E-Gazelle start line.

part do so representing a good cause, and for the cousins it was one

first. That’s how the desire to live an unusual adventure was born,

especially close to their hearts, as Pour Eux, Pour Elles provides sup-

to pass it on to my daughters and show them by example that life is

port both practical and emotional for those suffering from serious

not just about our daily lives as women, professionals or mothers. I

illnesses, as well as giving much-needed relief to their families.

wanted to convey to them that dreams are there to be realised what-

But before they could even reach the starting line, Sonia suffered

ever the effort or the hardships to overcome.”

another setback.

68

And it was with this rallying cry that the teams set out on their

“Each year I have to have follow-up checks; two years ago we

journey, leaving their daily lives behind and forging onwards into

found out that the aneurysm had come back, and just a year before

the desert. But how does one prepare for such a gruelling expedi-

my departure for the rally we learned that a new one had appeared,”

tion? First and foremost, with a lot of practical support.

says Sonia. “Against everyone’s expectations and despite the diffi-

“Without speed or time criteria, the objective is to rally — using

cult conditions of heat, jolts and stress, this galvanised my decision

only a compass, a ruler and a map — through several checkpoints

to take part.

covering the shortest possible distance,” explains Claire Frôté, head

“I got it into my head that leaving this life a little earlier than I’d

of marketing and communication for KF Masterpieces. “Without

planned was acceptable, given that the illness that has been follow-

any means of electronic navigation, as mobile phones are also pro-

ing me for a few years now. But I couldn’t let that happen without

hibited throughout the race, each participant is free to trace her

leaving an important impression both on myself and my daughters

own off-road route through the dunes.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

KF Masterpieces

Special model used by the two KF Masterpieces-supported teams

“With this in mind, KF Masterpieces provided one

the map… In these moments, you just have to main-

watch per car for the two crews we were supporting.

tain calm in the absence of a course to finally get out

This singular piece, using a calibre entirely developed

of the bad patch.

by the brand, makes it possible to find the cardinal

“But after several hours on the road, when you’re

points by means of the sun and the time. With its

lost and you want to know which way is north? A

orange fabric and Velcro strap, this sporty, versatile

snap on your wrist and you’re on the right track.

and precise model features a tourbillon carriage that

And the partnership with KF Masterpieces went far

stands out both for the size of its opening and the

beyond the technical and financial commitment.

transparency of its mechanism.”

They believed in the team and supported us with

Indeed, the practicality of a cardinal points com-

their enthusiasm.”

plication simply can’t be overlooked in the extreme

“The members of the KF team followed us and were

conditions of the Rallye — as the Gazelles themselves

behind us from the start,” agrees Sigrid. “It was so

found out.

very uplifting and encouraging.”

“The most challenging times in the race are when

Indeed, the theme of women supporting women

you get lost, sometimes for hours,” says Sonia. “It’s

runs throughout the race, with this being one of the

impossible to triangulate and find your position on

key tenets of the Rallye. Since it was first run in 1990

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69

‘‘Dreams are there to be realised, whatever the effort or the hardships to overcome.”

SONIA CAMMARATA, Rallye Gazelle

Above and right: The Rallye passes through challenging terrain each day.

more than 10,000 women have taken part and are now considered

participants of the Rallye leave with an unforgettable ‘mark’: that

Gazelles. And for Dominique Serra, founder of the Rallye and presi-

of surpassing oneself and knowing oneself, but also that of sharing

dent of sport and event company Maïenga, the race’s philosophy

and mutual aid with the other Gazelles.

has never changed from how it very first began:

70

“The rally continues to highlight the role of women in today’s

“It’s a unique international and human adventure, bringing

society and more particularly in motorsport, as well as to develop

together women of all ages and nationalities — as long as they are

its founding values, namely: courage, self-improvement, loyalty,

over the age of 18 and hold a driving license for the vehicle with

mutual aid and commitment to and solidarity with the environ-

which they wish to participate,” says Dominique. “No member-

ment,” adds Dominique.

ship in a sports federation is required. Each crew just has to choose

It’s this last point that’s perhaps the most surprising about an

to experience an adventure for two, whatever their motivation.

adrenaline-pumping, dune-bashing motorsport. It’s the only auto-

Whether it’s to surpass themselves, to take time for themselves,

motive event in the world to hold ISO 14001 environmental certifica-

to experience something new or to change their daily life. All the

tion and is constantly making more room for electric vehicles, seek-

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The women who complete the Rallye are henceforth known as Gazelles.

ing practical solutions to finding energy sources for the ‘E-Gazelles’.

“Looking back on my adventure, I remember the smiles and the

And as an event with a heart as big as the desert, the Rallye also

tears on the faces of all these different women who, during the Ral-

funds its own charity association, Coeur de Gazelles, which sup-

lye, were the mirror of my own emotions,” recalls Sigrid. “Once

ports Moroccan people in diverse areas such as health, education,

a Gazelle, always a Gazelle. We would do it all over again in an

the environment, the workplace and in teaching.

instant, without hesitation.”

“We support the race because it highlights values that we share,”

This truly unique experience has bound thousands of women in

says Claire. “There are many interesting parallels, from the impor-

sisterhood, with ties formed in the heat of the desert that can never

tance of teamwork and sustainable development, to the empower-

be forgotten — an achievement that will be talked about long after

ment of women and, by extension, humanity in general. And in

many of these Gazelles have passed their driving gloves down to the

addition to all that, the Rallye is also a wonderful bridge between

next generation.

Europe and Africa, bringing the continents closer together.”

“My cousins and me have all experienced difficult things, but

And it’s not just continents having their distances shortened –

we are united by this magnificent human adventure that we have

indeed, for the Gazelles participating in the Rallye those connec-

achieved, all four,” says Sonia. “The race allowed us to confirm our

tions go so much further.

links. Things were sometimes difficult between us, but with a lot

“The high point of the race, for me, was the arrival at the final

of kindness and respect we came out even more united. And for my

checkpoint and the end of race party, with all the women reunited

own family, maybe one day my daughters will want to participate

and ecstatically happy!” smiles Sonia. “There was crying, laugh-

in this rally with me — or in memory of me.”

ing, sharing... All 350 Gazelles were gathered to celebrate victory.

A women’s victory!”

And it’s with that bittersweet thought that we can most confidently say: once a Gazelle, always a Gazelle.

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71

SUMMER OFSPORT UAE Team Emirates riders wear the Richard Mille RM 67-02 timepiece, as well as sporting the Maison’s branding on their bikes and kits

JOLA CHUDY

Precision and style UAE Team Emirates pairs with Richard Mille for timeless victory

T

72

he United Arab Emirates is known

turing and promoting the sport of cycling in

United Arab Emirates, the team brings

for its colossal skylines and vast

the UAE, bringing international exposure to

together a wide range of cultural and cycling

deserts, but in recent years it has

the nation, and developing local talents.

backgrounds. And under Gianetti’s leader-

also become a hub for the world of

Initially launched as UAE Abu Dhabi, the

ship, the team has focused on developing

professional cycling. The UAE Team Emir-

team was rebranded as UAE Team Emirates

young talent and investing in innovative

ates cycling team, established in 2017, has

in March 2017. Since then, the squad has

technologies and training methods, includ-

quickly risen to become one of the most suc-

attracted top cyclists worldwide, creating

ing virtual reality simulations and advanced

cessful and reputable professional outfits on

a diverse roster of seasoned veterans and

data analytics.

the global stage.

young, promising talent. With remark-

This all paid off in 2020 when team mem-

The team was born from a partnership

able victories, the team has enormously

ber Slovenian cyclist Tadej Pogačar won the

between the UAE and Italian sports man-

impacted the professional cycling circuit in

Tour de France — the world’s most presti-

agement

just a few years.

gious cycling race — and became the young-

company

Giuseppe

Saronni’s

Professional Cycling Team (formerly Lam-

With riders from over 20 countries,

est winner in over a century. Discovered by

pre-Merida). The cooperation aimed at nur-

including Italy, Spain, Colombia and the

the team at the age of 20, Pogačar’s success

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

has helped raise the team’s profile and establish it as a

All this has been achieved while firmly commit-

significant contender in the world of cycling. Retain-

ted to social and environmental causes. The team has

ing his title the following year justified the team’s com-

partnered with various organisations to raise aware-

mitment to fostering young talent.

ness about climate change, clean energy and sustain-

Inspired by this, cycling is now a growing sport in

able development. They have also launched their own

the UAE, hosting various international cycling events

sustainability programme to reduce the team’s carbon

including the UAE Tour and the Dubai Tour and attract-

footprint and promote eco-friendly practices within the

ing top cyclists to the region. Government support has

cycling community.

seen the construction of cycling tracks, dedicated lanes

This even extends to using electric support vehicles

and even bike-sharing programmes, all contributing

during races, showing the world that reducing carbon

to the expanding interest. Still, UAE Team Emirates

emissions and promoting sustainability whole main-

remains at the centre, helping create a thriving com-

taining a place at the top of the sport is possible.

munity that nurtures the next generation of Emirati

Being from the UAE, they naturally do all this in

cyclists by hosting events, sponsoring local races and

style and have partnered with Richard Mille. UAE Team

supporting regional clubs.

Emirates riders will carry Richard Mille branding on

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

73

74

their bikes and kits throughout the subsequent four campaigns,

best bike designers, Colnago, and work closely with Colnago’s engi-

while cyclists can also sport the Richard Mille RM 67-02 timepiece.

neers and designers to develop cutting-edge bikes that are optimised

An ergonomic model and a technical tour de force, weighing just

for performance and aerodynamics. It’s not easy to break into the

32 grams, it also features a unique strap that is seamless, non-slip

world of professional cycling, but now the UAE team are one of the

and highly elastic to follow every individual wearer’s wrist contour.

best groups and at the head of the pack in many other ways as well.

Richard Mille’s EMEA CEO, Peter Harrison, said of the partner-

With a strong and talented roster of riders, a visionary manager,

ship with the technologically incredible timepiece: “UAE Team

a commitment to excellence and innovation and the backing of

Emirates has repeatedly demonstrated that it has world-class stan-

a nation deeply invested in the sport of cycling, the team is well-

dards and a passion for excellence, and we share the same vision

positioned to continue making a mark in the world of professional

and ambitions at Richard Mille.”

cycling. Whether competing in the Tour de France, inspiring the

That commitment to innovation and technology is also evident in

next generation of local cyclists or working to reduce their carbon

its partnerships with leading companies in the cycling industry. In

footprint, the UAE Emirates Cycling Team is a rising force that will

2020, the team announced a collaboration with one of the world’s

impact the sport and beyond.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 75 Contact: eleonore@gpextreme.com +33 (0) 6 85 60 38 77

SUMMER OFSPORT

Images courtesy of Tudor

RACHEL SILVESTRI

The human league

Fabian Cancellara is bringing humanity to competitive cycling, with his Tudor Pro Cycling Team putting the emphasis on people first and foremost. So will success come as a result of this new sympathetic approach?

GMT GCC talks the power of happiness and Swiss character with Spartacus himself

T

hroughout Fabian Cancellara’s professional cycling career,

beginner and semi-pro riders offers the opportunity to experience

he never failed to surprise. Whether smashing time tri-

a race with the man himself, and the sheer fun and joy emanating

als, snatching one-day classics or as a team-playing work-

from these unique events is palpable.

horse, this all-rounder was known for his tenacity and

And, not content to withdraw entirely from the world of pro

dedication – hence his Spartacus epithet. An Olympic gold medal-

cycling, Fabian has recently found himself at the helm of what’s

list holding eight Tour de France stage wins and numerous other

become the Tudor Pro Cycling team, an all-Swiss project that’s seen

top cycling achievements besides, one might have thought that a

Spartacus team up with watch brand Tudor to support this young,

retirement from professional riding would see him slow down.

up-and-coming group. A project that, he says, is all about doing

But since going out with a bang in 2016, shortly after winning his

76

things in a people-centred way.

third Olympic medal – a time trial gold – Fabian has never looked

“Having happy people around makes such a big difference,”

happier astride two wheels. His Chasing Cancellara platform for

laughs the Wohlen-born athlete. “It’s just easier to work in a nice

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The Tudor Pro Cycling Team in action

environment where you’re having fun together. But, of course, fun in a professional way. Having a good time together just helps us to get through those days when you’re not home, especially for our staff and riders. I think that’s why we have such a good time.”

It certainly sounds like a team anyone would want to be part of.

Here, GMT GCC chats beginnings, intentions and how there’s more to being Swiss than mountains, chocolate and watches with the man himself:

Ups and downs are necessary in sports — they are life lessons.

FABIAN CANCELLERA, Tudor Pro Cycling Team

GMT GCC: What was the genesis of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team?

as humans is so important. It shows them, correctly, that when

Where did this idea originate from?

it’s tough, when it’s hard, I’m not going to push them and say ‘you

FC: It began as a young, Swiss development team, and eventually

need to win, we want to win’. Yes, of course we want to win, but it’s

the day came when it was falling apart. I heard about that and I

not me that’s going to express that. I want them to do their best,

said no, this team cannot fall apart because 16 boys will lose their

to work with their human side and make them understand what

dreams, so as an agency we stepped in. I wanted to help them so we

they are riding the bike for, what they love about it and how impor-

created bridges towards partners, suppliers and so on, so the team

tant they are as people, in giving their experiences and energy to an

could continue on the right track.

organisation. Because that’s what’s going to help build everything.

What is the dream for this team?

You’ve got such a focus on the human aspect of cycling. Why is

Of course, we aim for performance, so we are making certain steps

that so important to you at this stage?

to progress the team and make it stronger. We are a small team in

I want to work with riders on all levels, and not just to make them

terms of where we came from, but on the other hand, our mindset

marketing tools or marketing toys, to ride around the world show-

is World Tour. So it’s a champion’s mindset, to be the top of the top

ing what we are and who we are. No, it’s actually more than that

in the way we think, the way we behave and the way we act.

and there’s more behind it. We have humans here and, for me, the

But we do not want to ‘use’ the riders, and we really can be proud

human aspect is really the most important. This is our focus. Of

of that. Racing as a team, a unit, and learning from our athletes

course we go to races to win, but at the centre of it all is the human

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77

Reaching the top of your climb with your own power is something beautiful.

FABIAN CANCELLERA, Tudor Pro Cycling Team

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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Swiss excellence contributes to the team’s success

first. We have to take care of one another, look out for one another,

also true with people – if you take care of them and care about them,

be open, and be straight in terms of being on the same level. Every-

then the quality of the whole project and everything about it will

one should have space, and if you need help, you need to ask for

just get higher.

help. If we don’t know what’s going on, we cannot help. So that’s something that we are pushing, we want the team to be able to

What do you think is your ultimate dream for this team?

share together.

I always say, we aren’t building an empire, we are building a house.

But we’re still building our foundation, and I don’t know how large

Between yourself, the support of Tudor and the equipment

it will be. As for what kind of house we will build, if it’s big or small

from BMC, this is a fully Swiss-powered team. Is it important

or how many floors it will have, I don’t know. But as long as our

to you to be doing everything domestically?

foundation is stable, and large, then we can build anything we

Being Swiss is about the way we work and the quality that Switzer-

want. We have to protect that house, because it shelters the team,

land presents at all levels. It’s not just about mountains, chocolate

the riders and the staff, and everyone has to help build it. Because

and watches, but other things too. We are quite easy-going people,

it’s not about me, it’s about this house and the people who made it.

strict in some ways, but still with our feet on the ground. And that’s

In the end, it’s 100 per cent about the team.

why I think that’s also part of the DNA we want to continue. When Tudor came in, it wasn’t with an attitude of ‘oh, cool project, here’s

What words of advice would you have for a young rider who

a contract’. No, it was more than that. It was really a deep conver-

hopes to follow if not in your footsteps?

sation about life, who I am, what I do, how I see things. And then

Enjoy, have fun and don’t stress too much, especially at the begin-

later on this all came together like a jigsaw puzzle: now we have

ning — there’s plenty of time for that later. It’s just about finding

a professional team, we are on the second level in cycling terms,

the pleasure in it and trying different things. If you ride, it’s not just

but we have already won a few bike races, and we have really made

about road bikes, it could be about gravel, BMX, mountain biking,

some nice steps into the cycling world.

cyclocross — whether it’s on the road or on the track, whatever it is, just have fun and be in nature. At the end of the day, cycling teaches

How has being involved with Tudor influenced the team?

life lessons to kids and to people in general. As a kid you probably

In the end, we can learn from the best. I think the way Tudor works

start on the front of your parents’ bikes, and then you leave your

and the way they behave, the way they do things is at such a profes-

parents one day and you can go and explore, even to the point of the

sional quality. When you see the watches and explore the way they

‘bike life’ in terms of riding around the globe. Ups and downs are

do things, they stick to what they are good at. They are the best in

necessary in sports, they are life lessons. It’s not just about when

what they do, from the way they do the quality controls to the way

you’re winning and things are good. But when you go up a climb as

they do everything! When I get the chance to go to the manufacture

a beginner and you reach the top — realising that just you and your

or even in their offices in Geneva, it’s always so nice and we can

bike did that — that’s when you can start to feel a certain pride and

learn so much from them. Also, in terms of cleanliness and organ-

happiness in accepting the challenge. Instead of thinking ‘I’ll stop

isation, I want that for our team too — an office that is clean and

and walk’ — which yes, is also allowed — reaching the top of your

well organised, because everything just works easier and better. It’s

climb with your own power is something beautiful.

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79

SUMMER OFSPORT

Bring on the glory AISHA JIBRIN

In Manchester City’s crowning achievement as champions of Europe, a sense of pride fell over the UAE – and an international story of trust and cooperation reached its apex.

I

80

n the heart of Istanbul, under the dazzling

The final whistle of the match was not just the end

lights of the Atatürk Olympic Stadium, history

of a game; it was the confirmation of MCFC’s long-

was written as Manchester City Football Club

coveted treble (FA Cup and Premier League wins came

clinched the coveted UEFA Champions League

before the Champions League trophy was lifted) and

title in 2023. This victory, however, resonates far

the triumphant crescendo of a narrative that began

beyond the suburbs of Manchester, echoing through-

when the Abu Dhabi United Group, led by His High-

out the United Arab Emirates and the Gulf region,

ness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan, vice presi-

marking a significant milestone in their journey of

dent and deputy prime minister of the UAE, took over

global recognition and influence.

Manchester City in 2008. The victory is a testament

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

From the sponsorship of Etihad Airways to the support of UAE-based fans, MCFC felt the region’s passion every step of the journey.

to the vision of the UAE leadership, their com-

The match itself was a spectacle of football

mitment to excellence and their ability to

at its finest. Manchester City, with their sig-

compete on the world stage.

nature attacking style, dominated the game,

The final match against Inter Milan was

leaving spectators and opponents spellbound.

not just a clash of football titans, but also a

The team’s performance was a testament to

symbolic representation of the UAE’s growing

the meticulous planning, strategic invest-

soft power — with the UAE’s people taking no

ments and the nurturing of talent that has

small sense of pride in the achievements of

been the hallmark of the club’s management

a club they’ve watched grow and supported

under UAE ownership.

over the years. A football-loving nation with

The VIP stands were a microcosm of the

its own proud tradition of home-grown clubs,

global influence the UAE has garnered. Dig-

the Emirates has naturally embraced MCFC as

nitaries, celebrities and football legends from

one of its own — making victory for this one-

around the world were in attendance, their

time underdog all the sweeter.

eyes riveted on the spectacle unfolding on 

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81

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GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

‘‘The victory is a testament to the vision of the UAE leadership and their commitment to excellence’’

The agony and ecstasy of reaching the UEFA Champions League final was shared by supporters the world over, from Manchester to Abu Dhabi and beyond.

the pitch. The presence of HH Sheikh Man-

commitment, dreams can indeed become

sour himself, alongside other prominent

reality. In conclusion, the 2023 UEFA Cham-

figures from the UAE, underscored the sig-

pions League final will be remembered not

nificance of this event in the broader socio-

just for the beautiful game played on the

political landscape.

pitch, but for the broader narrative it rep-

This victory is more than just a win for

resents. It is a story of vision, ambition

Manchester City or the UAE; it is a win for

and the relentless pursuit of excellence. It

the Gulf region. It symbolises the region’s

is a story of how a football club from Man-

growing influence in global sports, a tes-

chester, under the stewardship of the UAE,

tament to their commitment to fostering

took over Europe and, in doing so, brought

talent, promoting sportsmanship, and

glory to the Gulf region. This is a story that

building bridges of cultural understanding

transcends football, resonating with any-

through the universal language of football.

one who appreciates the power of dreams,

The triumph of Manchester City in the

the importance of vision, and the beauty of

UEFA Champions League is a beacon of

achievement. It is a story that also under-

inspiration for aspiring footballers in the

scores the shifting dynamics in global poli-

Gulf region. It sends a powerful message

tics, marking a new era of influence for the

that with the right vision, investment and

Gulf region.

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83

Yachting JOLA CHUDY

Sailing towards a greener future Francis Lapp explains Sunreef Yachts’ vision for a greener tomorrow

F

rancis Lapp leapt into the unknown twenty years ago when he founded Sunreef Yachts in Gdansk, Poland. “Back then, catamarans were only plastic boats and didn’t have luxury interiors, so I built the first luxury catamaran, which grew from there,” explains the company’s founder

and president. This decision would change the yacht industry, but the early years were tough.

“I remember when we went to our first boat show in Monaco in 2003, and not one person visited our boat, and the impression was that Poland doesn’t make boats.” Smiling, he adds, “We did lots of marketing to show people how good Pol-

ish-built boats are, and now 20 years later, Polish boats are better than Italian, in terms of quality.”

With around 450 boats constructed to date, every vessel is tailor-made to cater to the specific desires and needs of the client. Those clients include the likes of singer Julio Iglesias, tennis great Rafael Nadal and former F1 champions Fernando Alonso and Niko Rosberg. The latter is an Eco Brand Ambassador, having devoted his post-racing career to green tech.

In 2019, Sunreef Yachts introduced a groundbreaking range of luxury Eco catamarans. The Sunreef Yachts Eco range became the first in the world to incorporate electric propulsion, an intelligent energy management system, ethically sourced finishing materials and in-house produced solar panels. The boats utilise energy from the sun across a ‘solar skin’, with photovoltaic panels installed on the hull

84

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

and mast to power the yacht and run air-conditioning, heating and

ogy of watches is exciting — I have a Carl F. Bucherer on today, and

cooking units. When using the sail, the yacht generates power from

back home, I’ve got a Rolex and a Garmin for when I’m scuba diving.”

the motion of the propellers.

The Eco Yacht is the ideal vessel for scuba, but it also has the green

“People are now looking for something more eco,” he says, giving

credentials that Swiss-South African adventurer Mike Horn was look-

an example of one of the main attractions of going green. “When you

ing to take with him on his round-the-world expedition. After meet-

drop anchor and go for a swim, you want clear water, and you don’t

ing in Monaco, the pair became friends, and Sunreef Yachts under-

want the generator making the water smell, and Eco Yachts are also

took a two-year restoration project to bring Horn’s boat up to more

silent, so it’s just you and the sea.”

sustainable standards.

It’s still a niche market, and Lapp explains that there wasn’t much

Having recently cast off aboard his ice-breaker sailing boat Pangaea,

interest 10 or 15 years ago, but that’s now changing, and last year

the four-year expedition will take stock of the state of the planet and

they sold six boats in the Middle East alone. Living in Dubai for three

involve the public in this adventure. With Pangaea as the principal

years, he has decided to open a shipyard in Ras Al Khaimah, where

eco mode of transport, the journey combines exploration, education

100 per cent electric and sustainable catamarans will be built. With

and eco-commitment to inspire a new generation of stakeholders

another location outside Europe, they can be closer to clients in the

and encourage positive action towards a more sustainable future —

Middle East, Singapore and other key Asian destinations. He proudly

which, if this is the standard, looks very bright indeed

outlines the longer-term vision: “It is a Dhs100 million investment,

As Sunreef Yachts continues to make waves in the luxury yacht

and we’ll start with 50 people, and in two or three years maybe we

industry, Lapp’s commitment to innovation and sustainability

can move up to 600 or 800 people.”

remains the driving force behind its success. With a strong focus on

Besides boatbuilding, Lapp has a passion for cars and watches. He

green technology and a niche market that is steadily growing, Sun-

sees a parallel between the craftsmanship and technology that goes

reef Yachts is paving the way for an eco-friendlier route in the world

into building boats and creating exquisite timepieces: “The technol-

of luxury catamarans.

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Immersion

©Denis Hayoun

BRICE LECHEVALIER

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88 FOCUS 90 TEST BENCH

Inside the Manufacture

Vacheron Constantin

T

his new section does more than just occupy seven pages in your summer issue, which implied mobilizing our entire editorial team. The immersion within Manufacture Vacheron Constantin involved the GMT and WorldTempus teams of journalists, supported by our photo and video partners, the Diode studio and the Luxaltius agency, with whom we produce

and produce reports throughout the year.

GMT Publishing distinguishes itself by its multi-channel creativity and its interna-

tional reach. The scope of our publishing house encompasses print magazines with GMT, digital with WorldTempus, the Millennium Watch Book and a community embodied by the Fine Watch Club, whose members have also been welcomed at Vacheron Constantin. For the first time, all our forces were focused on the treasures of one Manufacture for an entire day. Many others were then devoted to transcribing this experience into different episodes to share with you. Some of them start in these pages and continue in video, or in their full version on WorldTempus. In this case, we take a closer look at the retrograde display at Vacheron Constantin, the 2023 theme of their new Watches and Wonders showing.

We are sincerely grateful to Marie de Pimodan and Sophie Furley who created the scripts and coordinated all our interventions during this intense day of investigation and exchanges with the Vacheron Constantin managers. A huge thank you also to the entire Vacheron Constantin team for its trust and the quality of its welcome, truly worthy of the world’s oldest watch brand enjoying uninterrupted activity.

See the whole Immersion dossier (articles, photos and videos) here:

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FOCUS BRICE LECHEVALIER

Overseas moon phase retrograde date

CASE: steel, transparent back, six-sided bezel, fluted crown, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 41 mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding (Caliber 2460 R31L/2, 40h power reserve), gold Overseas rotor FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, retrograde date, phases and age of the Moon DIAL: translucent blue-lacquered, sunburst satin-brushed finish, white gold hour-markers and hands enhanced with Super-LumiNova STRAP: rubber, calf leather or steel with triple blade folding clasp ESTIMATED PRICE: Dhs186,533 ©Denis Hayoun

The Overseas journeys back in time

As part of its lively trilogy of retrograde displays unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin is introducing a first in its Overseas collection: the retrograde date. With this Overseas moon phase retrograde date model, the sporty-chic muse pays tribute to watchmaking tradition. This aesthetic and technical distinction reinforces the personality of the Overseas while preserving its customary casual elegance. The mesmerising blue of its translucent lacquered dial provides a wonderful backdrop for the retrograde date on the upper part and the moon phases below, as well as its six-sided bezel inspired by the Maltese Cross. Everyone is free to change their look by simply and easily replacing the integrated steel bracelet with one of the two additional straps in rubber or calf leather.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The little extra touch illustrated by the age of the Moon indication around the aperture at six o’clock, via the scale graduated from 0 to 29½ which corresponds to the actual cycle of its rotation around the Earth.

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MARIE DE PIMODAN

©Denis Hayoun

FOCUS

Patrimony retrograde day-date

CASE: 950 platinum, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30m (3 bar) SIZE: 42.5mm MOVEMENT: mechanical self-winding, Caliber 2460 R31R7/3, 40h power reserve, 4Hz FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, retrograde day and date DIAL: salmon pink sunburst satin-brushed finish, white gold hour-markers and hoursminutes hands, blued steel retrograde hands STRAP: midnight blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin lining, toneon-tone stitching, platinum pin buckle ESTIMATED PRICE: Dhs288,652

Minimalism

as the days go by While Vacheron Constantin’s name is spelled out on the dial of the Patrimony retrograde day-date, the Manufacture could just as easily have done without it, as its style signature is clearly expressed through a multitude of details. Starting with the purity of its design inspired by the watches produced in the 1940s, when some classic references combined a white metal case with a salmon pink dial, this heritage is now revived in this platinum timepiece with its luminous salmon pink sunburst. This harmonious stage-setting celebrates another signature of the Maison, this time of a technical nature, as this model is part of a trilogy dedicated to retrograde displays, of which Vacheron Constantin has been producing superb examples since the 1920s. In addition to the hours and minutes, the retrograde date display is located on the upper part of the dial, while the days of the week are indicated by a hand at six o’clock. A rare combination of retrograde displays celebrating the union of minimalism and technical excellence, itself an unmistakable Vacheron Constantin signature.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The extremely subtle balance characterising the dial with its blend of absolute minimalism and useful everyday watchmaking functionality.

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Test Bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface

90

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W

atches and Wonders, now the

EXTERIOR:

biggest event on the watch-

There is no suspense in this respect, as Vacheron

making planet, wrapped up

Constantin’s designers and technicians have clearly

the first quarter of a promis-

almost reached perfection. The proportions, the fin-

ing 2023. The public health

ishes, the fluidity of the features of this new refer-

crisis is now a thing of the past for most watch

ence are obvious at first glance.

brands, which are returning to sales worthy of their

Housing a self-winding tourbillon with retro-

best years. This is certainly a form of rebirth for our

grade date within the 41mm-diameter case and

industry, which appears to have learned the lessons

arranging the indications into such a harmonious

of this turbulent period. It has been generally noticed

display must have been no easy task. And there is

that watchmakers are presenting new products that

actually no display in the generally accepted sense

are less exuberant, both technically and aestheti-

of the term, since the dial is sapphire and bears only

cally. Reliability, chronometry (timekeeping preci-

the hour-markers, the various graduations and the

sion) and ergonomics are once again at the heart of

brand logo whose positioning could be debatable.

the debates in the development offices, to customers’

Almost the entire movement surface is thus visible

greatest delight.

and its stunning decoration as well as its majestic

Three of the new models unveiled by Vacheron

anthracite treatment create an extraordinary con-

Constantin this year featured one or more retrograde

trast with the hands wherever they are along their

displays. This is the case with the object of this test

path. The retrograde date mechanism appears in

bench, which combines a retrograde calendar with

the upper part and offers a worthy reflection of the

its emblematic automatic tourbillon.

tourbillon carriage at six o’clock.

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91

©Denis Hayoun

MOVEMENT: Focusing on the movement of this watch is like stepping into a cathedral! Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, Caliber 2162 R31 is certainly one of the most beautiful interpretations of what traditional 21st century Geneva haute horlogerie should be. Innovation and technology serve tradition, as does the peripheral oscillating weight that never obscures the movement, let alone its tourbillon carriage. The traditional frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) powers the tourbillon for 72 hours.

We have gladly departed from the principles of this test bench by not publishing our own measurements (the prototype that was given to us for this test bench at the end of the show had been put to severe tests during its countless presentations during Watches and Wonders), given the extent to which we were mesmerized by the exemplary quality of the crafting CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Horloger | Watchmaker

and finishing of this tourbillon retrograde date model. It epitomises the goals watchmakers should aim to reach in these respects and stands out as one of the most beautiful developments of traditional Geneva watchmaking.

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Mirrored Force Mirrored Force Resonance Resonance Manufacture Edition Manufacture Edition Blue Blue

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

93

Icon

MARIE DE PIMODAN

Reverso, 1931

Reverso an irreversible success

Created in 1931 to adorn the wrists of polo-playing British officers stationed in India, the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre has spanned more than nine decades of watchmaking history and is an icon in the truest sense of the word.

I 94

t’s one of those objects that has stood the test of time

BORN SPORTY

without gaining a single wrinkle — apart from the three

The roots of the Reverso go back to a time when India was still

horizontal gadroons on the upper and lower parts of its

under British rule. Its story began with a challenge: to create a

case, a token of its art deco style. These distinctive fea-

watch robust enough to be worn by British officers stationed in

tures actually have nothing to do with Reverso’s vener-

India when playing polo. On 4 March 1931, the Paris Patent Office

able age, since they were already present when the model was cre-

received an application to register “a wristwatch which can slide

ated more than nine decades ago. Since 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s

on its base and flip over on itself.”

emblematic watch has remained almost unchanged, evolving

This revolutionary concept coupled with a design embedded in

in small, discreet steps to maintain its modernity in all circum-

its era did not take long to win over trendsetters from all hori-

stances and at all times. A rectangular silhouette with rounded

zons, men and women with discerning tastes. This reversible

corners, reversibility, gadroons and a railway-type minutes track

watch offered multiple advantages, such as its brightly coloured

are all timeless characteristics serving to identify at first glance

lacquered dials, instantly-recognisable silhouette and a large

the watch that opened up a vast realm of possibilities for the

space on the caseback that could be customized with an engraved

watchmaking Maison. 

or lacquered motif.

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Reverso Tribute Chronograph Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

Inspired by the famous golden ratio dear to the ancient Greeks, the dimensions of the Reverso case embody absolute perfection.

PLAYFUL DUAL PLEASURES OF A GRAND CLASSIC Over the last century — except during the quartz crisis — the Reverso has lost nothing of its aura, becoming a must-have classic, a style signature for watch lovers.

Available in countless interpretations and sizes designed to suit any wrist; engraved, enamelled and lit up with diamonds or other gemsetting variations, the Reverso has also evolved technically. Launched in 1994, the Reverso Duoface offers a unique expression of the dualtime complication, displaying local time on the front dial and a second time zone on the back. The Reverso Duetto, a feminine interpretation of the dual dial concept, entered the scene in 1997. Ever since, the Reverso has transformed itself into every conceivable mechanical innovation. Tourbillon, minute repeater, retrograde chronograph, perpetual calendar, eight-day power reserve, gyrotourbillon… Nothing is too ambitious for this collection through which Jaeger-LeCoultre demonstrates its technical expertise and aesthetic know-how.

This prowess is all the more remarkable given that the design of a rectangular movement represents a challenge in itself — a feat that is once again illustrated by the latest additions to the collection. Understated and classic on the front, technically captivating on the back: the new Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface and Reverso Tribute Chronograph stage a stunning and effortlessly elegant show — fully in keeping with the Reverso’s proud and distinguished history.

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Watch focus RACHEL SILVESTRI

Life through a lens

The name Leica may be synonymous with important photography, but the brand’s new timepieces are putting its own iconic codes firmly in the picture.

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ounded in 1867 in Wetzlar, Germany, Leica is

ing Vietnamese napalm attack image of 1972 by Nick

the granddaddy of cool photography. Beloved

Út, Leicas have been present at all manner of global

of Henri Cartier-Besson and Sebastiāo Sal-

events — and remain popular to this day.

gado, Leica’s compact snappers were hip

With photography experiencing similar challenges

before hipster was a thing thanks to their practical-

to those posed by the quartz crisis to watchmaking

ity, portability and the downright beautiful images

in the 1970s, the advent of digital, and then smart-

they produced. From Alberto Korda’s immortal 1960

phone photography, more or less put paid to film.

portrait of Che Guevara and Alfred Eisenstaedt’s cel-

But for those with a passion for Leica, their dedica-

ebratory 1945 VJ Day Times Square kiss, to the haunt-

tion never diminished. And in true forward-thinking

This picture: LEICA ZM 2 Right: LEICA ZM 2 Monochrom

style, Leica also rose to the digital challenge,

the ZM 1 and ZM 2 Monochrom editions,

cal watch fan’s repertoire — not to mention

with its high-tech cameras some of the best

recently launched in tandem with the M11

being another way for devotees of Leica’s

on the market. And in a ‘if you can’t beat

Monochrom camera — take that unmistak-

mean machines to pledge their allegiance.

’em, join ’em’ move, Leica even released its

able feel even further.

As with all things Leica, an element of rar-

Leitz Phone 1 smartphone and the new Leitz

Inspired by the principles of black and

ity only adds to the allure. The watches are

Phone 2 in Japan at the end of last year, with

white photography — contrast and light

stocked in select stores worldwide, but luck-

supreme clarity and a great big lens ready to

— all colour and silver tones are removed

ily for Middle East-dwellers the timepieces

capture those shots in a way that’ll blow the

except for the iconic Leica red dot, revelling

arrived on our shores earlier this summer, at

others out of the water.

in a minimalist design that’s pure cool for

the Leica Store Dubai Mall in the UAE, and

The company’s adaptability has now

cats. A triumph of German engineering, the

the Leica Store Doha in Qatar.

extended to a new market too — with the

mechanical hand-wound movement, the

The charm of Leica is all too easy to under-

launch of its first watches the L1 and L2 in

same one carried by the original ZM 1 and

stand — a masterclass in German crafts-

early 2022, the company’s distinct colour-

ZM 2, is fully developed and produced in-

manship and industrial design, the feel

ways and lines made their debut in time-

house. The patented push-crown complica-

is classic but the technology, for 150 years,

piece format. With a case resembling the

tion, which carries a pleasing shutter-like

has been nothing short of innovative. In

classic Leica lens cap in a palette of silver,

‘click’, stops the movement instantly and

this step toward adding further timepieces

black and red, it was as camera-like as could

resets the second hand to zero to enable sim-

to its modest collection, Leica has solidified

be. Quickly following on from the popularity

plified time-setting. The ZM 2 Monochrom

its position as no mere hobby horologist, but

of those first watches, which gave off plenty

has a further complication in its slick GMT

with an intent toward continuing this jour-

of Leica’s signature quirk and individuality,

with day/night indicator, making these

ney in serious watchmaking. You couldn’t

the release of the new ZM 1 and ZM 2 — and

two worthwhile additions to any mechani-

be blamed for ‘snapping’ one up.

Leica ZM 1 Monochrom Case: Stainless steel Size: 41mm, 14.5mm thick Movement: Hand-wound Leica manufacture calibre ZM 1 with 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, push-crown, mode indicator, power reserve indicator Dial: High-strength aluminium, black rhodium-plated diamond-polished indices Strap: Black calf leather with Monochrom embossing, cutedge construction with ton-sur-ton stitching, black latch stitching, and black Alcantara backlining; Leica tang buckle, stainless steel with black PVD coating Price: Dhs46,080 (approx.)

Leica ZM 2 Monochrom Case:Stainless steel, Size: 41mm, 14.5mm thick Movement: Hand-wound Leica manufacture calibre ZM 1 with 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, push-crown, mode indicator, power reserve indicator, second time zone, day/night indicator Dial: High-strength aluminium, black rhodiumplated diamond-polished indices Strap: Black calf leather with Monochrom embossing, cut-edge construction with ton-sur-ton stitching, black latch stitching, and black Alcantara backlining; Leica tang buckle, stainless steel with black PVD coating Price: Dhs61,630 (approx.)

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Watch focus RACHEL SILVESTRI

98

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The power of two It’s a personal and professional partnership that’s lasted the decades — and now the innovative GyroDial timepieces from the husband-and-wife team behind Byrne Watch are set to carry their legacy. GMT GCC takes a closer look at the new Indo Arabique timepiece, the story behind its vivid dial and its truly unique complication.

S

peaking to Claire Byrne of Byrne

times we agree, sometimes we disagree,

tion, knows horology from top to bottom

Watch about her husband of 20

sometimes we discuss and sometimes we

and is a fount of creativity. Together they

years and company co-founder

argue — and sometimes we shout! But in

prove to be a mean business team — as well

John is heart-warming in the best

the end we respect one another, and when

as being a happy couple at home, with their

way possible. Far from projecting a syrupy-

I’m right John always tells me so. It’s good

daughters 19-year-old Margo and 16-year-

sweet, Insta-ready version of married life,

to fight because in that way we always find

old Estar almost ready to fly the nest.

her honest take on living and working with

the right result and we never miss an oppor-

the master watchmaker is something that

tunity. It makes us stronger.”

And it’s this team that managed to pull off the watchmaker’s dream of producing a

any long-married couple would recognise.

And if John and Claire Byrne have any-

wholly new concept and complication — the

The power of teamwork, playing to one

thing, it’s strength together. Claire, a retail

GyroDial. An elegant mechanism that com-

another’s strengths and — from time to

and luxury consultant who over the years

pletely transforms the dial each night at

time — a good old-fashioned argument is

has worked with a host of fashion’s top

midnight, or at the touch of a button, four

refreshingly real.

names and continues to teach at the Institut

blocks at the face’s cardinal points instantly

“Yes, we fight!” laughs Claire. “He is the

Français de la Mode, has a cool head for busi-

flip, revealing a total of four personalisable

type of person who is always thinking about

ness and a deep understanding of luxury

sides that sit completely flush to the rest of

the future of the brand, and he’s always

and branding. While John, an industrial

the dial. As smooth as Clark Kent stepping

asking me if he’s right or wrong. Some-

designer who specialises in watch restora-

into a telephone box and emerging 

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99

BYRNE GyroDial Indo Arabique

as Superman, it’s a triumph of a novelty that holds its inspiration firmly in the arts.

ing depending on the light. It’s made in rhodium, all hand-decorated with 40 steps for each dial and 40 steps for each cube. The traits

“I’m a huge fan of ballet, I danced since a young age and I still

tirés [straight-grain finishing] on the dial, the engraved and hand-

dance twice per week, and I’m always going to watch the ballet with

blasted numbers… If one of the 40 steps doesn’t turn out well then

John,” says Claire. “Unfortunately, John usually sleeps through it!

we need to dispose of the cube and start again, and that happens

But this one particular time, while watching George Balanchine’s

one time out of each 10. So it’s a very expensive watch to produce.”

Apollo at the Opéra Bastille in Paris, he had an epiphany. There was

Like all Byrne’s timepieces, the Indo Arabique is housed in an

a special moment when four ballet dancers were moving as fast as

ergonomic and infinitely touchable 41.7mm titanium case, its

possible, one behind the other, all the while appearing to have just

organic-feeling lugs a treat for the wrist. The automatic self-wind-

one face.

ing, hand-finished and chamfered 5555 calibre was four years in

“He told me: ‘I will invent a face-changing watch.’ And I told him:

the making due to the unique challenges presented by the instant

‘Wow, you have 100 ideas every day, so I don’t care!’,” laughs Claire.

switch needed to make the ‘in a flash’ part of the company’s motto

“But in the end we went to Switzerland and met several manufac-

come to life. Its 60-hour power reserve is a testament to John Byrne

tures, and six years ago there was a fabulous meeting with Le Temps

and LTM’s combined vision and expertise, but it’s the vivid green

Manufacture in Fleurier which today is our partner for building this

that’s really the star of this timepiece’s show. And it’s all down to

company and is still our supplier.

the near-telepathic understanding between the co-founders — the

“The specificity of our watch is that it changes faces — just like

kind that only happens when you’ve been married for 20 years.

our mantra, ‘change your mind in a flash’. The philosophy of the

“When we met with our dial supplier, we saw this green tone that

watch is that you wake up each morning, and there’s a new watch

moved between four or five different shades,” shares Claire. “We fell

there waiting for you, a new mood and a new way of thinking.”

in love with it and we caught one another’s eye — as always — and

Byrne’s newest mood is the petrol-green GyroDial Indo Arabique, limited to just 23 pieces (Byrne will release a limited edition in

had the same idea in the same minute. We knew this movement of green colours would be an ideal match for our changing faces.”

numbers based on the year of issue — 23 for 2023, 24 for 2024 and so

And that’s the essence of Byrne Watch. A deep meeting of minds,

on) and incorporating Western Arabic, Eastern Arabic, Roman and

respect for one another’s talents and a high level of respective exper-

‘phantom’ numerals at the watch’s cardinal indices.

tise that’s allowing a whole new kind of creativity to flourish. John

“All these civilisations are incorporated into one watch,” says

and Claire’s daughters may be almost grown, but their bouncing

Claire. “And the first step was the dial. When you take a picture of

new GyroDial baby is just finding its feet — and we can’t wait to see

the watch, the colour never looks the same twice — it’s ever-chang-

it learn to run.

100 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

TheArt ArtofofSound.

Sound.Since Since1978.

1978.

The

GAÏA. GAÏA. An An ode ode totonature. nature.

Experience Experience the thenew newnatural, natural,powerful powerful and and highly highly accurate accuratesound soundsystem. system.

Goldmund.com Goldmund.com GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

101

Dubai Watch Week RACHEL SILVESTRI

It’s our time

It’s almost here — and we simply can’t wait. Make a very important date with Dubai Watch Week, when the industry comes to town and our community comes together in the most spectacular way.

I

magine a watch fair — then make it

creatives is the focus of this year’s edition.

the watch community.The sixth edition

Dubai. That’s what awaits us all at

And, in typically Dubai style, there will be

is shaping up to be the largest iteration of

The Gate, Dubai International Finan-

plenty of bling, good food and lifestyle expe-

the event yet, underpinned by collabora-

cial Centre, from 16 to 20 November.

riences on the way — after all, who does

tion and cultural elements, as we celebrate

luxe better than Dubai?

Curious Confluence and the intersection of

This sixth edition of Dubai Watch Week sees an increasingly globally important event

“We are thrilled to announce the return of

hit its stride and finally come to fruition,

Dubai Watch Week in 2023,” said Hind Sed-

industries.

“As the event transcends horology, we

with more than 55 brands confirmed as

diqi, director general of Dubai Watch Week.

are keen to expand our offering, appealing

exhibitors as well as elegant partners such

“The platform is not just a watch show but

to a wider audience. We are grateful to our

as Aston Martin ensuring that its crossover

a global movement, one that continues to

partners and the brands participating this

appeal remains strong.

build on our legacy across the luxury and

year and we look forward to collaborating

Acting as an intersection between horol-

horology industry. With evolving mindsets

with them to create the most unique and

ogy and other creative industries including

and industry landscapes, our goal for the

immersive edition yet. Dubai Watch Week,

design, fashion and art, the idea of Dubai

sixth edition is to enhance the experiential

a movement in horology, will continue to

Watch Week as a coming together of con-

element while focusing on storytelling, as

pioneer rising players across key fields and

noisseurs and novices, watch brands and

we broaden our audience and further entice

support initiatives that further elevate our

102 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Hind Seddiqi, Director general of Dubai Watch Week

The who’s who of DWW Immersive experiences: ROLEX | AUDEMARS PIGUET | TUDOR | HUBLOT | CHOPARD | ULYSSE NARDIN | GIRARDPERREGAUX | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | CHANEL | WATCHBOX will all have stand-alone spaces at Dubai Watch Week.

Other participating brands include… AKRIVIA | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | ARTYA | BELL & ROSS | BIVER | BOVET | BREITLING | BREMONT | CHRISTOPHE CLARET | CHRONOSWISS | CZAPEK | DE BETHUNE | DIOR | DOXA | industry, and cement Dubai as a global centre for culture in

F.P. JOURNE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE

line with the nation’s vision,” she added.

CONSTANT | GENUS | GRAND SEIKO | GREUBEL FORSEY

Creative Hubs, Masterclasses and the Horology Forum will

| H. MOSER & CIE. | HYT | ID GENÈVE | JACOB & CO. |

return as in previous years, along with new watch launches

KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN | LA FABRIQUE DU TEMPS LOUIS

galore. This all comes hand-in-hand with sumptuous gour-

VUITTON | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS ERARD | LUDOVIC

met offerings, entertainment options and exhibitions sure to

BALLOUARD | MB&F | MING | MORITZ GROSSMANN |

delight. Under the patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa

NORQAIN | ORIS | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | REMY COOLS

bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Chairperson of the

| RESERVOIR | RESSENCE | SCHWARZ ETIENNE | SPEAKE-

Dubai Culture & Arts Authority (Dubai Culture) and Member

MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE WATCHES | URWERK |

of the Dubai Council, the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons-powered

VANGUART AND VYNTAGE.

event has been bringing the Middle Eastern watch community together since 2015, constantly strengthening and fine-tuning its concept while always maintaining sight of the most important things — the people, community, tradition and innovation of horology. Over 100,000 square feet of

Dubai Watch Week is free and open to the public.

Visit www.dubaiwatchweek.com to register.

watch goodness right on our doorstep? Sign us up!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

103

Watch focus RACHEL SILVESTRI

Fortune telling Chronoswiss has dipped into the archives for inspiration for the very first time. The result? The stunning Delphis Oracle. So will this timepiece live up to its name and predict the direction of the horologer’s future? GMT GCC talks Middle Eastern editions and the inspiration behind this bluest of fantasies with CEO Oliver Ebstein.

104 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

F

rom the sweet neon delights of the Open Gear Resec Candy Shop to the intricate complexity of the new sun-like Space Timer Solaris and the sparkling Space Time Jupiter Gold, Chronoswiss is never backwards in coming forwards —

and never fails to surprise. A seemingly endless font of creativity, the Maison’s ‘modern mechanical’ timepieces are fearless in their bold design and push ever forward in their developments.

That’s why this year’s Watches and Wonders held a surprise for fans of the brand — for the first time ever, and in celebration of its 40th anniversary, Chronoswiss reissued a timepiece. Cue gasps.

Having said that, there was enough evolution in the look and feel of the Delphis Oracle to make it feel brand new. Keeping the double complication — digital jumping hours in a 12 o’ clock display win-

dow and retrograde minutes indicated by a sweeping 180-degree central hand — from the original Delphis, the Oracle incorporates a brand new movement as well as a vivid blue fire-enamelled and hand guillochéd aspect that’s a true eye-catcher.

Chronoswiss are teasing the Delphis Oracle, limited to just 50 pieces, as the cornerstone of a whole new collection that’s yet to be revealed. So now that Chronoswiss has hit middle age, can we expect a more mature, predictable output? It’s safe to say that the answer is no — the Maison is as full of surprises as ever. GMT GCC caught up with CEO Oliver Ebstein to find out more about what the future holds for this maverick horologer. 

‘‘With the Delphis Oracle, we want our timepiece to serve as a kind of oracle for the modern era — a reminder of the inexorable passage of time.’’

Oliver Ebstein, CEO, Chronoswiss

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The hand-guillochéd and fire-enamelled dial of the Delphis Oracle is a labour of love from Chronoswiss’s Lucerne atelier.

GMT GCC: The Delphis Oracle is the first time that Chrono-

is indeed a high-skill process requiring finesse and expertise. Our

swiss has reinvented an earlier model — why, after 40 years of

artisans start with a curved solid gold base. Both the crescent dial

new inventions, is now the time?

for the retrograde minute as well as the disk for the small second

Oliver Ebstein: The revival of the Delphis marks a monumental

are hand guillochéd in our atelier in Lucerne. Then we start the

milestone in the journey of Chronoswiss. Forty years of relentless

process of enamelling by applying several layers of translucent

innovation and pioneering designs have graced our brand with a

enamel paint by hand. It is then fired at high temperatures until

rich and diverse history. But we believe that to keep moving for-

the enamel melts and fuses to the gold, creating a vivid, perma-

ward, sometimes we need to look back. The Delphis was a defin-

nent colour. It is a painstaking process, because the enamel must

ing piece of our collection, a work that embodied our passion for

be applied evenly, and the heat must be perfectly regulated. Even

horological artistry and mechanical precision. Today, we’re revis-

the smallest error can ruin the dial as there is absolutely no mar-

iting this legendary model not just for the sake of nostalgia, but

gin for error. The result, however, is a dial that has an extraor-

to symbolise our commitment to our roots, and to bring a classic

dinary depth. Each blue fire-enamelled dial is unique, its slight

into the modern era with new techniques, materials, and insights

variations testament to the individual attention and handcrafting

we’ve acquired over the years. The 40th anniversary signifies our

that went into its creation. It’s a journey of patience, of skill, and

evolution, but it’s also a renewal of our original spirit, our essence

above all, a testament to the artistry that we perform in-house in

that thrives on the blend of tradition and innovation. The new

our atelier.

Delphis Oracle is the embodiment of our brand’s claim and motto: Modern Mechanical.

From the development of an entirely new calibre to the painstaking processes it employs, this timepiece must take some

The fire-enamelled dial is a feat of skill and fine detail — why

serious time to produce. How long did the design and creative

the choice of blue? Can you let us in on the process and the

process take, and how long does each individual timepiece

skills required to achieve it?

need to be made?

The choice of blue for the dial was not a random decision. Blue

Imagine, just creating the little crescent dial of the new Delphis

is a colour that has a deep and profound resonance. It is a colour

Oracle inside our atelier can take our artisans up to three days

that has long been associated with luxury, depth and stability. It’s

alone. Creating a whole timepiece, especially with a new manufac-

the colour of the sky and sea, infinite and inspiring. Moreover,

ture movement, is a complex process that requires time, patience,

blue dials have a unique charm that imparts a sense of sophistica-

and meticulous attention to detail. From initial design concepts to

tion and elegance, adding a layer of emotional value to the time-

the final product, the process for the Delphis Oracle took around

piece. Creating a curved, hand-guillochéd and fire-enamelled dial

two years. Each stage, from sketching initial designs, prototyp-

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‘‘As we look to the future, we are open to exploring the rich history of our past creations.’’

Oliver Ebstein, CEO, Chronoswiss

ing, testing and finally production, must be executed with preci-

whelmed by the response we’ve received. It’s too early for a long

sion and accuracy. The production of each individual timepiece,

term study, but customers in the region quickly embraced our

depending on its complexity, can take from several weeks to a few

unique blend of Swiss craftsmanship and avant-garde design, and

months. Every single component is crafted, assembled with high-

sales exceeded our initial projections. The Middle Eastern market

est attention to detail, ensuring that every piece lives up to the

has a rich history and appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship,

standards we have set over the years.

and they found a resonance with our rare timepieces. Over the last year, we have observed rising enthusiasm and recognition for

What’s behind the Oracle name? What is its significance to

our brand, and it’s a relationship we are keen on deepening with

this particular piece?

the prestigious partners we have on our side.

The name ‘Oracle’ has significant meaning to us. An oracle, in classical antiquity, was considered a divine source of wisdom,

How important is the Middle East to your brand? Middle East-

a portal through which one could seek guidance and prophecy.

specific editions are always very sought-after, do you have any

With the Delphis Oracle, we want our timepiece to serve as a kind

plans to issue one?

of oracle for the modern era – a reminder of the inexorable passage

The Middle East holds an enormous significance and potential for

of time, but also a guide, a constant companion that navigates

Chronoswiss. It’s not just a market for us but a community of pas-

you through life’s moments, both big and small. It’s a ‘modern

sionate watch collectors who appreciate the finer things in life.

mechanical’ testament to the enduring power of time, and our

Their understanding and deep respect for high-end watchmaking

role in measuring and honouring it.

mirrors our own values and aspirations as a family-owned watch brand. Given the successful partnership we’ve had so far, we are

Going forward, do you think that Chronoswiss will take

exploring the possibility of creating Middle East-specific editions.

another look at any other previous creations? Or was this a

We believe such an edition will be an exciting platform to merge

one-time occurrence?

Swiss precision with Middle Eastern artistry, offering something

While the Delphis Oracle marks our first time revisiting a previ-

unique to our clients in the region. While plans are still in their

ous model, it certainly opens up the possibility for future reinter-

infancy, stay tuned for further announcements!

pretations. At Chronoswiss, we don’t see our journey as a linear path, but rather a spiral — always moving forward, but also cir-

What, in your experience, does the Middle Eastern client look

cling back, revisiting our roots and our heritage. As we look to the

for in a timepiece?

future, we are open to exploring the rich history of our past cre-

Middle Eastern clients know exactly what they want. They have

ations. We believe there is immense value in revisiting our clas-

seen a lot already and are looking for something special, some-

sics, not for mere replication, but for reinterpreta-

thing unique. A luxury watch needs to be more than a

tion with the knowledge, skills, and materials we

symbol of status. It needs to be a piece of art, with a

have now. So, while I can’t promise a specific

strong heritage and clear identity. Collectors value

model at this point, I can certainly say that

the sophistication and precision of Swiss watch-

the possibility exists and is an exciting

making, but equally important to them is the

prospect for the future — it all lies within

design and the story behind the timepiece. They

our identity as unorthodox pioneers of mechanical watchmaking.

look for watches that are not just functional, but a representation of their personality.

They appreciate the small details that go

Although the brand has now been

into every Chronoswiss — from the pre-

around for 40 years, its entry into

cise movement to the handcrafted

the Middle East is quite recent.

dial, each piece is unique, and

When did Chronoswiss launch in

it’s this uniqueness that reso-

the region and how was the initial

nates with our Middle Eastern

response to your timepieces?

clientele. We are truly humbled

Chronoswiss launched in the Middle

by this deep understanding and the bond

East last year, and we’ve been truly over-

we share with our clients in the region.

Chronoswiss Open Gear Resec Candy Shop

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EDITORS’ PICKS

Future focus Sélection BRICE LECHEVALIER RACHEL SILVESTRI

The space race Young French horological startup Argon is daring to go where no watch brand has gone before — high design, superlative watchmaking and total affordability. So will it reach the stars, or come down to earth with a bump? GMT GCC finds out how its founders are planning to hit warp speed with their new concept.

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hen the Argon SpaceOne Kickstarter began to

duction of their concept, by the end of day one the project had

snowball, it was easy to see why watch lovers

attracted more than US$100,000. And before the fundraising

might get behind such a concept. Slick design,

month ended, SpaceOne was whistling to the tune of a cool mil-

complications and a very tempting price point

lion dollars. So just what has proved so irresistible to so many

indeed were all big draws for those looking for the next big thing — but could it be too good to be true? According to co-founders Theo Auffret and Guillaume Laidet, absolutely not.

investors keen to grab a piece of this Space Age pie?

As the brand itself says, it offers ‘radical watch concepts in limited editions at an affordable price’, an independent watchmaker

For two young guys, both have form — Theo is an indepen-

carving out a new niche for itself. Its ‘UHO’ — unidentified horo-

dent Parisian watchmaker with his own atelier and winner of

logical object — sports a recognisable, ergonomic silhouette and

the Journe watchmaking award, while Guillaume is the entre-

a stylish jumping hour complication, powered by a Swiss auto-

preneur behind the rebirths of Nivada and Vulcain — and if any

matic movement assembled in France. It seems like an awful lot

combination of minds could dream up a way to bring futurism

of watch for the entry price of just €1,499 — so how did they do it?

and affordability to horlogerie, then surely this was it. Confidence

GMT GCC talks to the daring pair to find out what it took to get the

was high: launching a Kickstarter campaign to fund the pro-

project up and ticking. 

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Guillaume Laidet, Co-Founder, Argon

Theo Auffret, Co-Founder, Argon

GMT: It seems like a watch lover’s dream, and almost too good

at objects there. I don’t have the means to invest in my favourite

to be true — high-end horology, arresting design and an afford-

designers — I dream of a Warren Platner table set — yet there is

able price point. Why are you the first to do it? And how are you

something very nice related to the arts, cinema, design, drawings

able to do it?

and novels in the forms and ideas of Spage Age. It’s something dif-

Theo: I come from high-end watchmaking, and didn’t really pay

ferent from the very 18th century style of my Auffret Paris creations.

much attention to the more affordable ranges of watchmaking

G: I’m a big fan of Star Wars and 1970s design, so when Theo showed

products before meeting Guillaume on my return from Switzerland

me the designs for the SpaceOne it spoke to me immediately.

to Paris. I am more naturally interested in old timepieces, especially clocks. On the other hand, I have already created small proj-

What’s behind the decision to call your venture Argon?

ects for my friends, with a little design and complication. The idea

T: Basically, I wanted to name the brand Argonaute, because I’m a

for Argon was to make a cool, technical watch without charging a

fan of Jules Verne and the sea. But the name belongs to the Swatch

crazy price. Technical and strategic choices had to be made, but I am

group, so this was our middle ground.

happy with the product.

G: It was Theo’s idea entirely!

Guillaume: In all my watch projects I want the products to be affordable for most people, so it was also the objective with Argon to offer

You’re working with three case materials — stainless steel,

cool complications and design at a good price with the best quality.

titanium and forged carbon. How did you pick these materials?

T: We wanted three materials and three different weights for the

For two younger guys, the Space Age theme of this timepiece

watches, and also to play on the decoration. The steel is quite heavy

is pleasingly retro. Are you both fans of vintage design? Is that

which pleases lovers of rather robust watches, the carbon is, on the

where the inspiration lies?

other hand, very very light... Titanium is a bit of a compromise

T: I like design, and I often go to the auction rooms of Paris to look

between strength and a rather more measured weight.

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G: Steel came first, then we wanted to add some more spaceship-like and futuristic vibes with the titanium and carbon.

One of the most interesting features of this timepiece is the jumping hour function, from Theo’s workshop. How long did it take to develop?

T: Two months!

G: It was crazy to see how Theo developed the whole jumping hour complication in a few weeks, right after we finished the first prototype.

The Kickstarter campaign has seen really incredible success — how did it come about?

G: We were hoping for this level of success, but you never know what’s going to happen when you press the button. But we had great feedback in Geneva during the Watches and Wonders fair, and in Asia during my business trips, so it was the confirmation of all those good vibes around this project since we started to tease it.

T: The idea is to make as much noise as possible from the start, to attract attention to a new brand, and I think we succeeded in attracting attention! We are happy with the result and it is honestly what we thought we could do, with some hard work. We have incredible plans for the future, really, and we have an extraordinary designer working with us now. SpaceOne is only the beginning...

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Test bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum

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F

ounded in 1996, the Parmigiani brand has achieved full vertical integration of its activities in just 10 years. The ambition to produce prestigious watches while enjoying complete independence has led to this dazzling development.

Despite the risks inherent in such growth and a faltering world

economy, Parmigiani has been able to resist and to assert its position in the world of haute horlogerie. Today, the Fleurier-based brand appears to have reached a degree of maturity conducive to ensuring longevity.

EXTERIOR:

Regarding the latest arrival in the brand’s catalogue — the

The design of the Tonda PF collection clearly evokes the 1970s,

Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in platinum — as a possible symbol of this

a golden age that saw the birth of many contemporary watch-

maturity, we couldn’t resist the temptation of putting through

making icons. As soon as you pick it up, you realise that Parmi-

its paces on our test bench.

giani’s designers and technicians have adopted this style in an interpretation that is far more modern than it first appears. The dimensions and ergonomics of the watch have been the object of obvious attention. The 40mm diameter and, above all, the thickness, the case profile and the successful integration of the bracelet make the watch a paragon of elegance and comfort. This new reference is attired in platinum and this applies not only to the case and the bracelet, as the dial is also fashioned in this precious metal. Its bead-blasted surface strikes a very noble contrast with the polished white gold hands and hour markers. Despite the slimness of its case, the Tonda PF is equipped with a screw-lock crown guaranteeing water resistance to 100m. 

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MOVEMENT: Caliber PF703 constitutes an ideal ‘engine’ for this reference. Its automatic winding system recovers energy from a platinum micro-rotor whose inertia ensures its optimal performance. While this choice of construction requires considerable mastery in the development and production of the caliber, it also makes it possible to confine its thickness to that of a hand-wound movement. The 48-hour power reserve is therefore amply sufficient and enables the oscillations of the balance to be maintained at a frequency of 3 Hz. Caliber PF703 powers a central display of the hours and minutes, as well as the date appearing through an aperture at six o’clock.

The Côtes de Genève motif and the circular graining are enhanced by chamfering and guilloché work on the oscillating weight, which raise the quality of the finishing to a level that is (all too) rare for this category of watches.

TESTS : The chronometry (timekeeping precision) of this caliber is all the more remarkable in that this movement has no seconds hand. The stability of the rate after 24 hours in operation is particularly noteworthy. Given the efficiency of the automatic system, the movement will always operate in an ideal winding range in terms of chronometry. Despite its small diameter, the crown is screwed down: the surprisingly easy handling and the straightforward operation of the functions testify to impeccable execution.

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POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0h

Rate (sec/day)

3,1

3,7

2,4

4,1

5,1

3,5

0hrs

Amplitude

300

298

265

278

258

267

24 h

Rate (sec/day)

2,4

3,2

2,2

2,4

1,6

1,8

24hrs

Amplitude

288

290

248

241

257

249

Whereas producing an existing watch model in platinum sometimes raises comfort-related issues due to the high density of the metal, the ergonomics and finesse of the platinum Tonda PF Micro-Rotor ensure it remains perfectly comfortable. The compromise between chronometry, reliability and elegance is exemplary and this Tonda PF seems set to enjoy a great future on all continents. Parmigiani Fleurier has definitely found the balance and maturity of a Maison destined for longevity in the world of exceptional watchmaking.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Watchmaker

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Portfolio: Rebellion BRICE LECHEVALIER

Twenty-One 3 Hands Dakar 2023 Limited Edition

Predator 2.0 3 Hands Dakar Limited Edition

W

DAKAR 2023: A TIME FOR DARING IN THE KINGDOM ending its way through Saudi Arabia's sandy dunes and rocky outcrops, the Dakar Rally is about passion and commitment — as is everything Rebellion does, notably as sponsor of the Rally for the past five years. This year, Rebellion Racing and Rebellion Timepieces owner Alexandre Pesci not only supported the rally, but also took part in it for the fourth time. Among the 355 cars at the start of this 45th edition, only 235 crossed the finish line, including the Toyota GR Hilux DKR that he drove with Stephan Kuhni (which finished 56th), as well as that of Romain Dumas (ranked 29th) — making it a double achievement. As official timekeeper of the competition, Rebellion accompanied all competitors and rewarded the winner. It has to date created four limited series dedicated to this rally and to racing fans, including this year's Predator automatic. We take a look at the 2023 edition.

REBELLION lined up two Toyota GR Hilux DKR

for the start of the 2023 Dakar Rally.

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Twenty-One 3 Hands Dakar 2023 Limited Edition

DESERT, DUST, RUTS, TRAILS AND TRIBULATIONS: the Rebellion Racing

competitors pushed themselves to the limit to reach the finish.

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My time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Sounds appealing It’s all about the music — but you might never have heard it like this before. GMT GCC gets an earful from Amir Anwar, one of the co-founders of UAE long-timers Dubai Audio, where superlative experiences and sound performance rule.

I

f there’s something that Amir Anwar doesn’t know about

the same kind of sound quality that the brothers had experi-

audio, then it’s not worth knowing. With almost 30 years

enced overseas to the region, in the process building a commu-

in the business he has a lifetime of knowledge just wait-

nity of audiophiles who were safe in the knowledge that if they

ing to be shared, but his sheer excitement and enthusiasm

wanted the best and most up-to-date in speaker tech they knew

for sound makes it seem as though he’d only just discovered it.

just the place to go.

Fastidiously up to date with all the latest in audio technology

Starting out by catering to the residential market, Dubai

as well as a fountain of knowledge about what’s happening in

Audio has grown to also encompass commercial projects as well

music and other tech industries too, it’s no wonder that Dubai

as fulfilling the dreams of those seeking ultra high-end sound

Audio has had three decades of success — projects founded on

solutions. Basically — if you want it to sound good, the boys

this level of passion rarely fail.

have got you covered.

And there’s more: Amir is just one of three co-founders and

“Our core criteria is performance,” says Amir. “We’re very

company directors. A trio of brothers originating from India

performance driven, that’s the basis for everything that we

and educated in Europe and the United States, they are all

offer as a company and it needs to meet our expectations. But

equally as passionate about what their business stands for, and

then again, within our segment, over the years the way people

are a truly international bunch. That is, as Amir says, they used

consume music has changed. You travel with it, work with it...

to be...

The manufacturers that we work with realise that you don’t

“We were international until we got here and started call-

have to compromise on quality just because our lifestyles have

ing Dubai home,” he laughs. “And it still is. My children, my

changed, so even if you’re on the go, it’s all about giving you

brother’s children, everybody was born here.”

the best quality of something that we love.

But it’s the birth of their joint business that’s kept them here all these years. Dubai Audio came from a desire to bring

120 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

“Some people have music in the background all the time, but  I think that when you have quality and get into the way 

Adil, Amir and Ahmed Anwar are the brotherly trio behind Dubai Audio’s three decades of success.

“Our clients are very discerning and the brands we represent really are luxurious.

We don’t do these things to try and be outrageous — quite the opposite, we design experiences for clients that want the best.”

Amir Anwar, co-founder, Dubai Audio

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121

the artist intended the music to be heard, it’s a completely differ-

based Swiss-Canadian musician Jesse Marchant. Inspired to create

ent experience. Sometimes you don’t know what’s out there unless

his debut watch after touring Europe and frequently feeling that his

you get the chance to try it, so we really invest a lot in how we create

ideal horological travel partner was missing, Lorca’s first models are

those experiences in a very natural environment, to showcase the

set to be delivered in November.

best of our products.”

Dubai Audio’s expansive Sheikh Zayed Road showroom is the

“I love his music, by the way,” smiles Amir. “When I found out he was launching his watch company, it was just something for us

business’s current environment, the evolution of the original Deira

to get behind. I love people who are able to execute and create some-

premises founded in 1994. And with a new Dubai Hills Mall address

thing that they’ve dreamed of, and to actually see it come to life.

set to open this month, Dubai Audio’s auditory experiences will be

It’s an incredible feeling, to be able to help with a product and work

spreading out into the city’s newer areas too. But the business’s

with the creator. So we will be bringing these watches to Dubai in

work isn’t just confined to the Emirates — in fact, their wares are

November, as soon as they’re released.”

enhancing sound experiences far and wide.

But back to the day job — Dubai Audio’s stock-in-trade is in sound,

“In some cases, the association we have with manufacturers lets

and with a range of brands from the niche to the high-end in its

us do business internationally, providing Bluetooth speakers and

‘Elite Collections’, there’s something for everyone. From the 1960s

alarm clocks for hotel guest rooms – things like that,” shares Amir.

Italian flair of Brionvega and the futuristic profile of Syng systems,

“So we supplied the Ritz-Carlton in Hong Kong and the Rosewood in

to the reassuringly expensive work of Dan D’Agostino, Sonus Faber

Bangkok, as well as some properties in the Seychelles. We have even

and Goldmund, at the top end it becomes almost easy to justify drop-

started working with a watch brand. The first time I told somebody

ping half or three quarters of a mil on some of these works of audio

that they said, why watches? But it’s a case of – it all comes back to

and visual art.

the music.”

“We have had the opportunity to be involved in some amazing

Indeed, the brand that Dubai Audio has partnered with — new

projects,” says Amir. “Simply amazing. Our clients are very dis-

independent watchmaker Lorca, on the verge of launching their

cerning and the brands we represent really are luxurious. We don’t

first timepiece, the Model No. 1 GMT — was founded by New York-

do these things to try and be outrageous — quite the opposite, we

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Clockwise from top: Dubai Audio’s plush listening environments; Goldmund speakers form part of the business’s Elite Collections; brand-new Lorca timepieces will launch at Dubai Audio in November.

design experiences for clients that want the best, because of the

after all Dubai Audio’s high-end brands, while eldest brother

engineering that’s behind it. It’s like high-end watches — the

Ahmed is responsible for operations, keeping everything on track

attention to detail, the craftsmanship and the ethos that goes

and allowing his younger brothers to push towards the busi-

into everything about them.”

ness’s goals and new opportunities. It’s a formula that’s worked

So when starting out in 1994, was it an uphill struggle to gain understanding for what the brothers had to offer? Amir says that

for almost three decades now, and the brothers don’t have any plans to change it.

aspect can’t be underestimated: “When we first started out as a

“It just works,” says Amir. “It’s got a lot to do with mutual

business, people looked at us as though we were absolutely nuts,

respect and mutual confidence in one another. If you’re working

because in this region there were only two or three brands that

with people you don’t know, sometimes it’s difficult to know if

the majority associated with these sorts of products. But we said

things will work out. Whereas with us, we don’t question that

no, there has to be life beyond these narrow choices. What we

confidence, which is really great, and everybody takes part in

were doing wasn’t actually very different — where we grew up in

decisions, which is so important.”

Europe and the US, there were entire streets where you could go,

Dubai Audio’s motto — giving heart and soul to sound — goes

make an appointment, or just walk in and discover something

so much deeper than just the aural. A true Dubai success story,

new. But here, the culture was very different — they were differ-

this is a family business that’s seen the comings and goings of

ent times. So what we brought was the exposure and saying, you

the decades, and has continued steadfast regardless. And it’s

know what? We want people to experience something better. Not

true, at the base of it all is a love of music. But it’s clear that the

necessarily more expensive, just better. We all love music, and

combination of personalities and the relationship between the

that really is the key.”

founding brothers may be the secret ingredient that has kept

So who are the brothers behind the music? Amir is the young-

their recipe fresh all these years. And one thing’s certain, if it’s

est and takes care of projects. Then middle brother Adil looks

fresh sounds you’re after, you’ll do no better than Dubai Audio.

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Lifestyle: Motoring JOLA CHUDY

MEAN MACHINES

At the track, in the dunes or on the street — these whips will keep you hip wherever you are.

1

2

1

BLACK MAGIC FOR DESERT-GOING MERCEDES FANS

The Mercedes-AMG G 63 Grand Edition is an SUV that not only embodies the pinnacle of off-road performance, but it’s also as if it were designed specifically for this region. This exclusive vehicle goes above and beyond to establish its unique identity, boasting a bold Manufaktur Night Black Magno colour scheme adorned with luxurious gold accents, almost as a nod to Arabian style. These design features also pay homage to the original G-Class, which debuted in 1979. Regarding attention to detail, the Grand Edition spares no expense. The iconic AMG logo and the renowned three-pointed star emblem shine in a magnificent Kalahari Gold Magno hue, gracing the bumpers and even the spare wheel. To complement this opulent exterior, the vehicle boasts striking 22-inch wheels with a centre-locking mechanism, all finished in an exquisite Tech Gold shade.

The side body graphics also receive the same lavish treatment, perfectly harmonising with the overall aesthetic. The interior G Manufaktur black Nappa leather upholstery is meticulously crafted to exude elegance and comfort. What sets it apart is the exquisite gold contrast stitching and gleaming plaques proudly displaying the golden AMG logo subtly embedded into the backrests. The G 63 Grand Edition will be limited to 1,000 units worldwide to ensure exclusivity, making it a highly soughtafter collector's item.

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2

FERRARI’S FIRST ROAD-LEGAL CARS IN THE XX PROGRAMME

Over the last 20 years, Ferrari has developed the XX Programme to offer a select group of expert client drivers extreme vehicles that are not road-legal but can be driven at the limit on the track. They’ve succeeded enormously, but now you can use two on public roads. The limited series SF90 XX Stradale (pictured) was created alongside its SF90 XX Spider counterpart with a limited number of just 799 and 599 cars, respectively. These new V8-powered plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) have a battery, an electric motor, a petrol tank and an internal combustion engine, so you get the benefits of electric but still get the iconic sound of the Ferrari V8. Put your foot down, and it makes a roar like a lion that’s just stood on a LEGO brick. They represent the latest and most extreme special versions and push the performance of Ferrari’s road-going models to new levels. You’ll hit 100 km/h in 2.3 seconds (which is faster than a Bugatti Veyron Super Sport), double that in 6.5 seconds, and the horses keep galloping up to 320 km/h. The SF90 XX Stradale is Dhs3.1 million, while the SF90 XX Spider is Dhs3.5 million, but will no doubt cost even more once speeding fines are factored in.

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MERCEDES-MAYBACH NIGHT SERIES UNLEASHING DARK OPULENCE

Mercedes-Maybach has always led the way in luxury automobiles, and now they're pushing the boundaries even further with the Night Series.

Inspired by the enigmatic allure of the night, this exclusive package is available for three extraordinary machines: the Mercedes-Maybach EQS SUV, the Mercedes-Maybach S-Class, and the Mercedes-Maybach GLS. The Night Series showcases meticulous craftsmanship and unconventional design elements. Dark chrome accents, luminous surfaces reminiscent of exquisite jewels and boundary-pushing interior aesthetics redefine the Maybach experience. With interior herringbone decor, dark chrome details, and rose-gold accents, the Night Series should strongly appeal to the Middle Eastern audience, setting a new standard for fresh and progressive Maybach design.

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Lifestyle: Yacht JOLA CHUDY

THE OCEAN WAVE

Submersibles, a new-look yacht club and… An invisible yacht?!

Things are never boring when it comes to super-luxe boating.

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PROJECT HERCULES

A unique collaboration between Triton Submarines and Espen Øino International, Project Hercules is a first-of-its-kind luxury submersible offering a completely different user experience. By reimagining the hull, designers at EOI and Triton Submarines’ design partner Dark Ocean DeepSea have combined comfort with speed to create Triton’s first-ever high-speed submersible.

Capable of diving to 200m and travelling in the range of eight knots, one pilot and up to six passengers can glide behind a school of sharks or whip through strong undercurrents while luxuriating in an ultra-fine interior cabin, boasting opulent leather lounge seating, day head and bulkhead with sliding pilot seat for optional passenger privacy.

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FUTURISTIC DESIGN FOR LUXURY YACHT CLUB AND MARINA IN THE MIDDLE EAST

Named Triple Bay Yacht Club, the renderings for a spectacular project set across three natural bays along Saudi Arabia’s north-western coast have been unveiled. Work on the project is already well underway, with luxury development firm Amaala leading, and it’s on track for completion in 2024.

As part of the Saudi Vision 2030 programme, it is expected to significantly enhance yachting activity around the Middle East and the Red Sea. Features include a 10-hectare basin for hosting yachts up to 130m long, plus an 80-metre visitors' quay for accommodating events, including yacht shows and regattas. The full-service marina will offer 120 berths and will be supported by a covered entrance large enough for discreet arrivals by tender. The yacht club of Triple Bay Club was designed by the international award-winning architecture firm HKS and will cover 7,900 square metres and cascade across four storeys. Features include a terrace restaurant, infinity pool deck and rooftop cabana lounge.

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THE WORLD’S FIRST 3D-PRINTED ‘INVISIBLE’ YACHT

While it might sound like something from a Pierce Brosnanera Bond film, the concept to create this has been highly researched and is based on existing technologies. The creators, Forakis Design, say that it would need further development to achieve performance objectives at such a large scale, but it’s an achievable, albeit aggressive, target for 2030. If they can pull it together, it can transform the yachting industry and potentially other shipping forms. By integrating the hull and the superstructure, the triangulated 3D-mesh framework would effectively distribute loads across the entire yacht resulting in a more robust, stiffer, lighter system. Visually, the reflective glass is precisely angled toward the sky to receive more solar radiation for generating electricity and to direct reflections of the sky and clouds towards the viewer, creating the illusion that it’s largely invisible. Try not to break it, 007.

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OCEANCO’S REBUILD OF THEIR 344-FOOT-LONG SUPERYACHT IS SOMETHING SPECIAL

The Oceanco-built superyacht H was first launched in 2000 but has undergone an intensive three-year rebuild, transforming it into a new yacht — known as 1050H — with every modern comfort. A specialist design team was brought in to reimagine everything from the exterior lines and interior design to the finest details. They softened the yacht’s straight lines into flowing curves, extending it by over 30 feet at the aft. This allows for a 23-foot-long pool on the main deck and a beach club on the lower, with a dual staircase wrapping around the infinity pool waterfall. Meanwhile, the interior is designed to feel like a family home and even features custom artwork designed and crafted especially for this project. It can accommodate up to 20 guests in six guest cabins, two additional multifunctional cabins on the owner’s deck, and a VIP suite on the bridge deck. The owner’s deck also boasts a climate-controlled winter garden that can accommodate up to 32 guests in the formal dining area and a large lounge that doubles as a cinema. its sun deck has a panoramic gym with sea views, while the lower deck features a hammam, sensory shower, hair salon and massage and beauty rooms. Frankly, there’s probably no need ever to come ashore.

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Lifestyle: Destinations JOLA CHUDY

A HEADY MIX

From new getaways to the return of old favourites, it’s all happening in the GCC this summer.

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SIX SENSES AMAALA IN SAUDI ARABIA

As the Kingdom’s tourism sector transforms, this ‘about to open’ creates another reason to visit. With tourism a relatively new addition to the KSA, now is the time to enjoy the unspoilt beaches and clear waters. Deriving from the Arabic word for hope and the Sanskrit word for purity, Amaala spans over 4,155 square kilometres of an unspoiled nature reserve in a region blessed with dramatic coastal scenery, majestic mountainous backdrops, pristine whitesand beaches, and untouched coastal reefs. The beachfront residences, a hillside village and villas that line the private mangrove bay blend the site’s natural beauty with the understated elegance of the brand’s design standards, offering panoramic views across the Hijaz Cove to the Red Sea. To the north, the village opens on to the long sweeping beaches of Hijaz Cove, and to the south, the town leads around the point to natural rock pools, pocket beaches, and a mangrove boardwalk to access the spa, which will set up home in a private cove. Book early and be among the first anywhere to enjoy this.

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THE RETURN OF OKKU

OKKU, the once-beloved Japanese restaurant formerly located at The H Dubai Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road, is back. Often cited as the best place to get Japanese food in Dubai, it left the city in 2018, but the new restaurant has just opened at Marriott Resort Palm Jumeirah.

Fans of the original will be glad to know that some of the design highlights are still present, including the samurai soldiers and the mesmerising jellyfish, and there’s now a sushi bar and robata grill.

As you’d expect, the menu covers traditional Japanese classics made modern, including foie gras kushiyaki and crunchy tuna on crispy rice.

It’s great to have it back.

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THE AL HAMRA BEACH AL SHAMAL OCEAN VIEW VILLA

Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach, has just introduced Al Shamal Ocean View Villa for those looking to have a classier weekend getaway. Spanning 193 square metres, this villa boasts a sundeck overlooking the azure ocean, a private pool for uninterrupted relaxation, and a tranquil garden adorned with a personal cabana.

An ideal setting to enjoy some quality time on a staycation, feel like you’ve gone away somewhere special, and be back home on Sunday evening without having to deal with airports.

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Why Riyadh is the region’s new foodie destination As Saudi Arabia continually evolves, the rapidly improving food scene is one of the most notable changes, and the new additions are importing famous and highly acclaimed restaurants from Europe and the United States. It’s another sign that the dining scene in Riyadh is increasingly on the global radar. Here are five worth checking out…

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GYMKHANA

The Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in London has long been a favourite for those looking for high-end takes on Indian classics.

Diners have included Taylor Swift and David Beckham, but the real stars here are the main courses when you can’t go wrong. Inspired by the elite clubs of India, where members of high society socialise and dine, this is a notable addition to the Riyadh dining scene.

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MADEO

Los Angeles-based Madeo has opened a branch of its fine-dining restaurant, bringing its classic Italian dishes from family recipes passed down through generations to the Kingdom, with over 35 years of serving Tuscan food. There’s also a branch opening in Jeddah.

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Another restaurant that made its name in Los Angeles the name is Italian for "she (or he) who cleaves," and the menu is inspired by how an Italian butcher might cook. Chi Spacca’s open-fire grill and wood oven cooking techniques combine with the prime cuts of meat to create a place where the lovers of big meat dishes can enjoy them in natural style, cooked by experts who know what they’re doing.

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CHI SPACCA

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NAC

Short for North Audley Canteen, this restaurant from London’s Mayfair now brings French bistro-style cooking to the Saudi capital.

Offering breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, all times of the day are covered but breakfast is especially noteworthy. The ricotta pancakes with dulce de leche and banana weigh in at 840 calories, but we can assure you that each and every one is worth it.

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SANTINI

Opened in 1984 by Gino Santini, his restaurant became a staple of London dining. Frank Sinatra even called it his favourite. Now run by his daughter Laura, the menu delivers authentic Italian cuisine with a Venetian twist. From their homemade pasta, ricotta ravioli, Venetianstyle grilled scallops and signature apple fritters for dessert; you can’t go wrong.

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Lifestyle: Fashion JOLA CHUDY

THE FINER THINGS

Join GMT GCC on a shopping spree with the most desirable luxe products around. Treat yourself and your loved ones with these accessories guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

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BOUCHERON’S NEW CARTE BLANCHE HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION

Their new collection — More is More — has some exceptional pieces that embody technical brilliance and bold experimentation in a way that makes them worthy of your attention. Under the creative direction of Claire Choisne, this innovative collection uses vibrant colours featuring geometric designs and motifs. With elements like spheres, cubes, and flat shapes, the collection combines playfulness and grandeur, infused with vivid hues inspired by pop art. If you’re looking to invest in something a bit bolder, this collection is a real attention grabber.

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PAIR WITH INDY ALDEN 405 BOOTS.

These are the boots that Harrison Ford has worn in all the Indiana Jones films. They were his own from when he worked as a carpenter in his pre-actor days and decided they were also suitable for his iconic screen character. Founded in 1884 by Charles H Alden in Massachusetts, the Alden company has been going for over a century, and these calf-leather boots are comfortable from the first day you put them on. A pair will set you back around Dhs3,500 but will last a lifetime and look better with age.

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HAMILTON INDIANA JONES BOULTON WATCH

This is the watch that Harrison Ford is wearing throughout Indiana Jones and The Dial of Destiny. Although Dial of Destiny is set in the late 1960s, the look was initially introduced in 1941. The Hamilton Boulton flaunts period-correct touches while seamlessly integrating modern proportions in this newest iteration. Serif-style numerals sit solidly on the white dial, which also features a small second subdial at six o'clock. The stainless steel case is tall and slim, has a pronounced crown, and fits on a textured calf leather strap. At a more-than-affordable Dhs2,550, it’s a lovely period-looking piece with a conversation-starter film tie-in.

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MONTBLANC LAUNCHES SLEEK MTB 03 IN-EAR HEADPHONES

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Montblanc expands its audio range by introducing the MTB 03 In-Ear Headphones, combining timeless design inspired by the iconic Meisterstück and personalised sound performance. Crafted from lightweight resin, these sleek headphones offer an ergonomic fit, Active Noise Cancellation and water resistance. The touch functionality allows easy control of audio playback and calls. With renowned sound engineer Axel Grell's expertise, Montblanc has achieved a balanced and elevated audio experience known as the Montblanc Sound Signature. Carry them in the stylish, black-coated aluminium charging case, which supports wireless charging, reflecting Montblanc's attention to detail.

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PRADA BEAUTY INTRODUCES LUNA ROSSA OCEAN

The new Luna Rossa Ocean claims to have a “fresh wave of masculine intensity that blends intense sophistication and sensuality through nature’s finest ingredients”, but what you need to know is that it smells excellent. Not overpowering, distinctive but not off-putting, and it does smell fresh in that way that feels like the final touch when you’re getting ready to go out.

THIS NEW UPDATE OF PERSOL’S ICONIC 714S NOD TO ACTOR’S ROLE IN LE MANS

Worn backstage by Steve McQueen during the filming of the Le Mans film, the Steve McQueen 714 features a folding saddle bridge and a distinctive drop shape. The exclusive Centennial style will feature a hand-finished ivory acetate frame with internal gold engraving and 24 carat gold plated lenses and a dedicated white box with racing stripes inspired by McQueen’s jacket in the Le Mans film. Relive McQueen's adventures with these icons of classic cool. The Steve McQueen 714s are available from the Persol website.

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HADITI — INSPIRATION FOR GIFTING

When you’re looking to send someone a high-end gift, be that an intelligent object, something edible or an experience, it’s good to have some inspiration.

The Haditi website not only has some inspiring ideas, but you can also buy them and have the presents delivered. And as a locally-based gifting site, they can offer same-day delivery, which is very handy for those last-minute presents when the occasion has slipped your mind. Visit Haditi.com for fresh ideas.

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Lifestyle: Cigars JOLA CHUDY

CIGAR BARS

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THE CIGAR BAR

The Fairmont Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road A setting with rich mahogany, elegant accents and dimmed lighting makes this a fine place to sit back and light up, and there’s a wide selection of premium cigars from prestigious brands for high-end users. The Cigar Bar also has limited private hand-crafted cigar lockers within its walk-in humidor available to the ‘most distinguished’ guests. All the lockers are temperature and humidity controlled, and an in-house cigar sommelier ensures your cigars are checked, cleaned and rotated. As you’d expect, the drinks on offer are ideal to go with your cigar, and it’s open until 3 am, so it’s perfect for a long session after an evening meal.

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ABOVE 21

For those looking to impress clients, becoming a member of the exclusive Above 21 Cigar Lounge at the stunning Five Palm Jumeirah Hotel is a classy way. The drinks menu covers all the main classics, from Ireland, Japan, the United States and Taiwan. The humidors are fully stocked with a wide range of cigars, and staff can help you find the ideal cigar and tipple combination to make an event of it. Get a seat facing the window as the nighttime views of the Dubai Skyline are an impressive visual backdrop to your evening.

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CIGAR LOUNGE

Situated on the 13th level of The Address Hotel in Downtown Dubai, this classy space offers a refined smoking experience, allowing you to indulge in the art of creating perfect smoke rings. With its stunning panoramic view of the iconic Burj Khalifa, the Cigar Lounge, complete with low lighting and deep leather armchairs reminiscent of a gentleman’s club, is more than just a bar. Drams from around the globe, including rare and limited-edition bottlings, grace the impressive drinks list, and the humidor is a who’s who of what the modern gentleman should be smoking.

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THE CHURCHILL CLUB

In the Four Seasons in DIFC is a cigar bar and a sanctuary for those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship behind the world’s finest cigars. It is a place where time slows down, allowing you to savour every moment and indulge in the pleasures of the cigar culture. The interior design reflects a perfect blend of elegance and comfort, with plush leather seating, dim lighting and a meticulously curated collection of Cuban cigars that adorn the walls. The attention to detail is evident in every aspect, creating a welcoming and exclusive environment.

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THE VAULT

The Vault at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai caters to those who appreciate all life’s finer things. With its luxurious ambience, an extensive collection of cigars, drinks and live entertainment, it’s somewhere to sink in to a haven of luxury. Their walk-in humidor has 18 refined and exclusive brands, from limited edition pieces to crowned cigars, including Montecristo Grand Edmundo and Punch Robusto UAE, to more standard brands like Churchills.

Knowledgeable and skilled staff can help you pair smoke and drink for an optimal experience.

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Lifestyle: Cigars JOLA CHUDY

CIGAR CULTURE 1

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THE ULTIMATE HUMIDOR FOR WATCH LOVERS

Imperiali Genève unveiled its Emperador cigar chest for someone with a bank balance with five or six commas. It is touted as the world's most prestigious cigar chest, comprising 2,675 components, several international patents and state-of-the-art technology, including the world’s first self-regulating humidity system. Entirely manufactured in Switzerland, it combines haute horlogerie with the craftsmanship of the cigar industry. Masters of traditional crafts, engineers, watchmakers and designers, Emperador took 18,000 hours of work from nearly one hundred professionals from 27 trades. The Imperiali flying tourbillon timepiece, placed at the centre of the stage, is made from 323 components, comes with a power reserve of 80 hours and was made entirely by master watchmakers from the Swiss Jura, featuring exceptional finishes such as a delicate clous de Paris guilloché dial. Perhaps the only thing that is more of a ‘wow’ is that it costs one million Swiss francs.

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EMBRACE THE RITUAL OF BAND REMOVAL

Removing the band from a cigar before lighting it is more than just a practical step — it's a crucial ritual for any cigar smoker. It prevents the band from affecting the burn and altering the flavour and signifies respect for the craftsmanship of creating that cigar.

Removing it allows you to fully engage with the cigar's unique characteristics, savouring its aromas and complexities without distractions. It's a small act that elevates the smoking experience, ensuring you can truly appreciate the artistry and essence of the cigar in its purest form. Remember that etiquette dictates that it should be removed before smoking. After all, it is somewhat vulgar to let everyone around you know that your cigar is better than theirs. This applies everywhere in the world except in the United States, where leaving it on is acceptable. We’re saying nothing…

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HOYO DE MONTERREY NO.2

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The Hoyo de Monterrey No.2 is a classic Cuban cigar catering to beginners and experts alike. With its light and ethereal charm, this Robusto-sized (4 7/8 inches x 50 Ring Gauge) cigar strikes the perfect balance. It offers a ‘proper cigar’ experience without being overwhelming or showy. Its appeal lies in its approachability and elegant construction.

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DUNHILL 1907

Crafted by Dunhill of St James’s Street, a subsidiary of the esteemed British American Tobacco, the Dunhill 1907 is a delightful New World cigar. It boasts depth, character and a hint of sweetness derived from the Brazilian filler leaf. Not only does it offer a satisfying smoking experience, but it also provides excellent value for its quality. This Robusto-sized cigar is highly recommended for those seeking a rewarding and flavourful smoke.

ASHTON VSG ILLUSION

The Ashton VSG Illusion presents a slender and elongated alternative to its plumper counterpart. This New World cigar, enriched by sun-grown Ecuadorian tobacco, offers a depth of flavour and an experience to savour. Additionally, it carries the allure of enjoying a cigar from a lesser-known country, adding a touch of uniqueness to your smoking repertoire. The Ashton VSG Illusion perfectly balances elegance and richness, making it a preferred choice for discerning smokers seeking an exceptional cigar.

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MONTECRISTO NO.2

For aficionados of Cuban cigars, the Montecristo No.2 holds an esteemed position as a classic choice.

Its Piramide shape and substantial dimensions (6 1/8 inches x 52 Ring Gauge) make it a powerful contender.

Prepare yourself for bold, leathery flavours and a long-lasting, gratifying smoke. This cigar embodies the essence of Cuban craftsmanship and delivers an experience that is cherished by many.

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Watch philanthropy RACHEL SILVESTRI

The one and only

It’s a uniquely satisfying concept — the world’s most rare and sought-after watches, all in one epic auction in aid of a truly worthy cause. As Only Watch approaches its 10th edition, GMT GCC explores its beginnings and aims and prepares for its horological gems to hit Dubai’s shores before going under the gavel in Geneva.

A

n invisible charge crackled in

When the gavel came down at CHF31

at just four years old, was given the very best

the air. The salon of Geneva’s

million, the room broke into rapturous

chance in life that science could offer, Luc —

Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues

applause. The gathered crowd had just

over the course of a few years — made the

fell silent as the 2019 Only Watch

witnessed the highest price ever paid for a

seemingly impossible happen. He brought

auction’s star lot, a unique Patek Philippe

watch — and best of all, each penny of its

together the watch industry in a show of

Grandmaster Chime, took its turn at the

price would go towards research into saving

incredible generosity and solidarity in what

rostrum. The excitement was palpable, and

lives all over the world.

would eventually become a feel-good spec-

barely a whisper could be heard in the room

This is just one of the exceptional

— but then, the unbelievable happened. As

moments that Luc Pettavino’s hard work

Paul attended every auction until passing

a significant one-of-a-kind timepiece, with

and heartbreak have created since he

away in 2016 at the young age of just 21. In

a reserve of CHF2.5-3 million, there was

founded the uniquely captivating Only

his short life he saw his father’s idea grow

always going to be a spectacular show. But

Watch concept in 2005. Spurred on by a

from a concept sparked by a meeting with

as the bids crept into the tens of millions,

fatherly instinct to do everything he could

late Swatch Group chairman Nicolas Hayek

so too crept in the dawning realisation that

to ensure that his son Paul, who had been

and floated to various watchmakers in the

something truly extraordinary was happen-

diagnosed with incurable degenerative dis-

course of Luc’s then-position as CEO and

ing right there, in front of everybody’s eyes.

order Duchenne muscular dystrophy [DMD]

shareholder of the Monaco Yacht Show, to

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tacular that takes place every two years.

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Biver Catharsis

gaining the unwavering support of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco and becoming an important date in the industry’s collective diary. And Paul’s untimely death wasn’t the end of Only Watch — in fact, Luc’s commitment to the cause is as unwavering as ever.

“One cannot get bored of Only Watch,” said Luc, at the latest auction’s announcement. “We are preparing the 10th edition, yet all participating brands, partners, media, collectors, donators, supporters, and us, the organizers feel joy and excitement because we know for a fact that it is going to be once again an ‘everestic’, festive moment of creativity where generosities will meet other generosities to do good to others in need, and by doing so, to ourselves. I am grateful for all of us to be able to create this together and have such a great impact. We also get to show the world it’s possible to organise great rallies for great causes when people’s hearts and minds are in the right place.”

The concept is simple — the ‘Only Project’ raises funds for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy by auctioning one-off watches. The execution — not so simple. It takes an army of labour to not only complete and donate the unique timepieces, but also to provide the infrastructure that allows the auction to flourish. Ferrari take care of the transport, while Christie’s holds the gavel. The venue has changed from time to time, with PALEXPO the current auction host. But one thing all these services have in common is clear — it’s done free of charge to maximise the amount that’ll go towards research into finding a cure for DMD, which also benefits similar degenerative conditions.

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Richard Mille Talisman Origine

Patek Philippe hasn’t let much slip about the celebratory timepiece it’s producing to honour Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday — but it’s sure to ruffle some feathers

The Association Monégasque contre les Myopa-

runaway success is of course down to the

This year’s selection seems to be espe-

thies is the charitable organisation behind

generosity and creativity of the watch

cially colourful, with the auction reaching

Only Watch, which has so far raised almost

brands. The auction’s catalogues read like

something of a peak on its 10th anniversary

CHF100 million to fund the association’s

watch lover fan-fiction, with unlikely cre-

— all the more reason to be excited about

scientific research. An international net-

ations and outlandish pairings making for

these timepieces coming to Dubai during

work of public and private laboratories

fascinating reading. From Richard Mille’s

October. As the last stop on a global tour

focuses on developing new treatments such

frankly bonkers shamanic necklace-watch

to demonstrate the watches to a worldwide

as gene therapy, cell therapy and the repair

(estimated to go for CHF600,000-800,000)

audience, the show will come to Ahmed Sed-

of mutated nucleic acids, while the money

to Biver’s sublime offering of ‘Catharsis’,

diqi & Sons on 27 October before making its

raised at Only Watch has so far financed

a minute repeater carillon tourbillon with

final trip back to Geneva ready for the auc-

two biotech organisations, one of which

no visible time display, but full of gem-set-

tion on 5 November. It’s an amazing oppor-

is launching a clinical trial of a drug fully

ting expertise, its estimate of CHF500,000-

tunity to look and dream about bidding on

funded by Only Watch proceeds. The char-

700,000 is sure to rock some boats. Patek

your fantasy watch, especially because Only

ity has also financed more than 50 research-

Philippe’s offering has neither image nor

Watch has taught us that dreams really can

ers around the world, encouraging connec-

estimate — yet — but intended as a celebra-

come true. And when they are in aid of a

tions through roundtables and initiatives

tion for honorary president Philippe Stern’s

worthy cause, that makes the dream all the

that are hoped will accelerate research.

85th birthday, with a movement exclusively

sweeter. Are we due for another multi-mil-

designed and produced for this watch,

lion gob-smacker? We can’t wait to see what

excitement will be running high.

happens come November.

But it’s not just about achieving the charity’s aims — the reason for Only Watch’s

The Only Watch world tour will come to Dubai on 27 October at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Museum of the Future, Sheikh Zayed Road, from 10am-1pm and 4pm-10pm. The 10th Only Watch auction will take place on 5 November at 2pm at PALEXPO, Geneva.

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The 2023 OnlyWatch Collection

LOT 1

ANDERSEN GENÈVE Jumping Hours Only Watch 2023

LOT 5

ATELIER DE CHRONOMÉTRIE AdC30 Only Watch

LOT 9

LOT 2

LOT 3

ANGELUS x CHÂTEAU ANGELUS Chronodate Gold X Château Angelus

ARMIN STROM Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023

LOT 6

LOT 7

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch Edition

LOT 10

BELL & ROSS BR03 Cyber Rainbow

LOT 13

LOT 14

BOVET 1822 Orbis Mundi

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BREGUET Marine Hora Mundi 5555

ARTYA Purity Moissanite

LOT 8

BALTIC Baltic Experiments – Premier Quantième Perpétuel

LOT 11

BIVER Catharsis

LOT 4

BARBIER-MUELLER Mosaïque II

LOT 12

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 : Unique Piece for Only Watch 2023

LOT 15

BULGARI Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble

BOUCHERON Joy De Lumière

LOT 16

CARL F. BUCHERER Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch

LOT 17

CHANEL Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch

LOT 21

LOT 18

CHOPARD L.U.C 1860 Only Watch Edition

LOT 22

LOT 19

LOT 20

CZAPEK GENÈVE Place Vendôme Complicité - Courage Every Second

DE BETHUNE DW Seeking Perfect For Only Watch 23

LOT 23

LOT 24

FURLAN MARRI F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre Bleu Furtif

LOT 25

GÉRALD GENTA Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023

LOT 29

HERMÈS Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Only Watch

FERDINAND BERTHOUD Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch”

LOT 26

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023

LOT 27

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition

LOT 30

HUBLOT Mp-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch

Furlan Marri X Dominique Renaud X Julien Tixier –

Secular Perpetual Calendar - Pièce Unique For Only Watch 2023

LOT 28

GRÖNEFELD 1941 Principia Mandala

LOT 31

JACOB & CO. x CONCEPTO WATCH FACTORY Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension

H. MOSER x MB&F H. Moser X Mb&F Streamliner Pandamonium

LOT 32

JAQUET DROZ The Rolling Stones Automaton Only Watch 2023 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

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LOT 33

KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN Stargazer Only Watch 2023 Pièce Unique

LOT 37

LOT 34

KRAYON Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2023

LOT 38

LEDERER Central Impulse Chronometer

LOT 41

MAURICE LACROIX Masterpiece Only Watch 2023

LOT 45

PERRELET Turbine Chrono X Only Watch

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LOT 35

L.LEROY L.Leroy Minute Repeater, Unique Piece For Only Watch

LOT 39

LOUIS MOINET Art-Tech

LOT 42

MONTBLANC Montblanc 1858 Géosphère 0 Oxygen Carbo2 Only Watch Unique Piece

LOT 46

PETERMANN BÉDAT x AUFFRET PARIS Chronomètre D’Observatoire

LOT 36

LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023

LOT 43

MORITZ GROSSMANN Tremblage Only Watch

LOT 47

PIAGET Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty

LAURENT FERRIER Sport Auto “On Track”

LOT 40

LUDOVIC BALLOUARD x BRITTANY NICOLE COX Upside Down Blue Feather

LOT 44

PATEK PHILIPPE A watch as a tribute to Philippe Stern

LOT 48

RESERVOIR x TELOS WATCH Edition Only Watch 2023 Tiefenmesser Tourbillon

LOT 49

LOT 50

RESSENCE Ressence Type 12

LOT 53

LOT 51

SPEAKE-MARIN Ripples Bleu Royal

LOT 57

LOT 55

SYLVAIN PINAUD Origine Only Watch

LOT 58

TRILOBE Réconciliation

RICHARD MILLE Talisman Origine

REXHEP REXHEPI Chronomètre Antimagnétique

LOT 54

LOT 52

TUDOR Tudor Prince Chronograph One

SINGER REIMAGINED x GENUS 8-Track Watch For Only Watch

LOT 56

TAG HEUER Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch

LOT 59

TIFFANY & CO. Bird On A Rock Mechanical Pendant Only Watch

LOT 60

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak S Only Watch

URWERK Space-Time Blade

If you are interested in bidding, please write to registration@onlywatch.com Visit www.onlywatch.com/2023collection for estimated prices

LOT 61

LOT 62

VOUTILAINEN CSW Only Watch

ZENITH Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set

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DAVID CHOKRON

Sapphire delights

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato Absolute Light & Fire, case in red metallised transparent sapphire

Blue, pink, green, orange and every shade in between: sapphire offers an immense palette of shades. Whether set as a gem or used as machined watch glass, this ‘brush’ is used to color the most creative and fascinating watches.

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JACOB & CO. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Orange Sapphire Crystal, orange sapphire case

S

ARTYA Tiny Purity Tourbillon, two-tone nanosapphire case

HUBLOT Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem, fluorescent yellow sapphire case

apphire is on everyone’s lips and has

VARIETY

long been on their wrists too. In its

Within the watch industry, sapphire as a gem is

gem form, it’s a precious stone. In

interpreted in various ways. Its palette has become

its synthetic crystalline form, it is an

downright infinite, because it is possible to modify

indispensable ingredient in watch-

its colour using ancestral techniques. By heating it

making, for which it provides transparent glasses

and mixing it with chemical substances, the ele-

and casebacks. In the past 10 years, sapphire has

ments trapped in the corundum crystal react and

resolutely entered the multicolour era. On the one

give it the corresponding colour. Rainbow setting

hand, it has taken possession of the most desirable

owes its popularity to these alterations, resulting

and joyous bezels with the rainbow setting. On

in large quantities of stones of all colors. This range

the other hand, transparent sapphire cases have

is so vast that it virtually covers an entire Pantone

spread rapidly, albeit on a relative scale, leaving

colour chart. The ability to combine stones, along

scope for a next-level interpretation in the form of

with their gradients and their regularity, as well

coloured solid sapphire watches. In both instances,

as to maintain intensity between successive gems,

the intention is clearly an upscale move in terms

are all essential factors. On a bezel, in the spot-

of sophistication. This inventiveness is intended to

light and under careful scrutiny, any flaws are eas-

transcend demure and traditional approaches sym-

ily detected. Rainbow setting is therefore far from

bolised by the white of diamonds and the transpar-

being an agglomeration of stones, but instead an

ency of a crystal that is admittedly conspicuous by

art form in its own right. 

its visual absence. Coloured sapphire is an expressive, exuberant and daring material that must be handled with care.

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ROLEX Yacht Master 40 Ref.126679 SABR, bezel set with blue and pink sapphires

PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Reference 7968/300R, case, bezel and hour markers set with multicoloured sapphires and diamonds

DEMANDING Coloured sapphire as used in watch components is also a demanding discipline, all the more so because of the constraints imposed by the technical nature of its production. This sapphire is not the result of a mixture, such as the ones colour specialists may offer. It is born tinted in its very crystal structure. Its colour is built up atom by atom and despite the huge progress made to date, the result remains random. Scrap rates are eye-wateringly high and largely responsible for the staggering cost of the components. Fragile structures, inclusions, breakage during cutting or polishing and natural defects are all phenomena that occur in the synthetic version — because, once produced, this crystal is machined to become a case, which is a 3D component. Finally, it is difficult to decide in advance where the result will fall on the chromatic spectrum.

One must therefore persevere and, if necessary, play with this uncertainty. If one aims for a red and ends up with an amber orange, one must make the most of it and adapt one’s creativity accordingly. One can even opt to coat the transparent sapphire with a layer of PVD in a bright shade. What ArtyA manages to do with its Tiny Purity Tourbillon whose two-tone nanosapphire case comes in two different concatenate hues, is even more impressive.

EXALTATION Sapphire is beautiful and bright. It brings joy and radiance.

It is noble, it is hard, it is demanding. It has all the qualities and flaws that drive people crazy, stimulate designers and enchant those who wear it. Whether on a bezel with a perfect AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak

Selfwinding Chronograph, bezel set with blue sapphires

or creative gradient; or as an ingredient in fine watchmaking, it never ceases to amaze, to be renewed and — thanks be to the Earth — to spread.

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ALLISSA PATAKI

What’s new at Watches and Wonders?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Inspired by the renowned aesthetic of 1960s motorsports timekeepers, the newest 42.5mm steel model of the Overseas Chronograph takes on a ‘panda’ dial. Powered by an in-house self-winding Caliber 5200, it is pulsing with adrenaline and ready for adventure!

PRICE: CHF 32,700

Hermès Arceau Wow

Designed by Ugo Bienvenu, this colourful 24-piece limited edition featuring a dial in miniature painting on double-sided mother-of-pearl celebrates the brand’s heritage and creativity in a unique and playful way. Nothing short of ‘wow’, indeed.

PRICE: CHF 72,000

Chopard Happy Sport – 25mm

With the same free spirit of its five dancing diamonds, Chopard unveils the latest model of its playful icon in a dainty 25mm-diameter stainless steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold case, paired with a daring double tour strap. An expression of infinite joie de vivre in a world of finite time.

PRICE: CHF 5,370

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

Elegance and comfort are at the heart of the latest Aquaracer, with its 18 carat solid gold bezel and crown, along with a practical rubber strap. Available in 30 or 40mm versions, it is perfect for daily use or even for exploring the ocean’s depths thanks to its 200m water resistance.

PRICE: CHF 4,600

Oris ProPilot x Kermit Edition

Oris and The Muppets’ collaboration sparks joy in a most creative way, with a light green dial to match the shade of Kermit the Frog, whose face will fill the date window at six o’clock on the first day of every month. A simple yet effective reminder not to take life too seriously!

PRICE: CHF 4,400

Grand Seiko Spring Drive White Birch

Inspired by the white birch trees of northern Japan, Grand Seiko’s 50-piece limited edition, accurate to +/- 1 second per day, pays tribute to its rich heritage and the meticulous craftmanship that brought it to life with its fully hand-engraved dial and case.

PRICE: CHF 80,000

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What’s new at Watches and Wonders?

Zenith Big Date Flyback

Zenith’s automatic high-frequency flyback chronograph, equipped with the new El Primero Caliber 3652 and a patented Big Date with an instantaneous jump in 0.007 seconds, enables accurate timekeeping and captures the spirit of aviation pioneers with its seamless blend of modern engineering and vintage aesthetics.

Ready for take-off?

Charriol Collection Navigator St-Tropez GMT 41mm

Charriol debuts the latest (naturally, Swiss made) addition to its Navigator St-Tropez Collection: a 41mm timepiece, whose automatic movement powers a date function at four o’clock as well as a 24-hour dual-time display appearing in blue and red on a black dial.

PRICE: CHF 2,490

PRICE: CHF 13,400

Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator Celebrating its 140th anniversary and its first exhibit at Watches and Wonders, Alpina honours the milestone with an 888-piece limited edition of the Alpiner Extreme Regulator Automatic, which debuts an integrated steel bracelet.

PRICE: CHF 2,450

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Equipped with an automatic movement driving hours and minutes functions, Ulysse Nardin’s latest rose gold release mesmerises with its flying carousel movement that rotates around its axis and an oversized silicon oscillator. An impressive feat that is sure to turn heads…

PRICE: CHF 65,000

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Cyrus Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue

Cyrus launches a Klepcys in titanium with a Dual Time Zone function in a 38-piece limited edition, in which the Ocean Blue shade and in-house mechanical Caliber CYR708 play a starring role. For the first time in a Cyrus collection, this model is available with a metal bracelet.

PRICE ON REQUEST

Frédérique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture

Frédérique Constant is all set to mark its 35th anniversary with a 150-piece limited edition featuring its beloved tourbillon entirely developed and manufactured in-house, nestled in a rose gold case.

PRICE: CHF 25,995

ALLISSA PATAKI

Downtown discoveries

Reservoir x LabelNoir x Popeye Honouring one of the world’s most iconic cartoon characters, Reservoir and LabelNoir have created a humorous 200-piece limited and numbered edition showcasing a handpainted image of Popeye in action, his massive arm serving as a sweeping minutes hand.

PRICE: CHF 4,700

Breitling Top Time B01 Ford Thunderbird

Breitling delights speed-loving sportsters again with a watch series inspired by its partner Ford’s iconic 1950s and 1960s sports cars. This COSCcertified 41mm chronograph exhibits a bold red leather strap and a new engine under its hood: the self-winding in-house Caliber B01. For cruising in comfort and style.

ID Genève Circular S Sun Dial

Featuring 100 per cent recycled steel that is melted in an industrial solar furnace, this ‘lab’ limited 300-piece edition’s carbon impact is an impressive 165 times lower than the industry average. An exciting development in the fight against climate change!

PRICE: CHF 4,380 TO 4,680

Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic

Balance and proportion are the watchwords for Bulgari’s stunning addition to its timeless Octo Roma collection. This model with its clous de Paris hobnail motif and octagonal shape pays tribute to the Eternal City’s architectural treasures.

Powerful Italian design at its finest.

PRICE: CHF 7,000

PRICE: CHF 7,500

Singer Reimagined x The Limited Edition Flytrack On The Road

Born from a shared passion for adventure, this sporty 10-piece limited edition features a manual-winding Flyback Caliber AG6364 and a central seconds hand, which converts into a flyback pointer. An ingenious take on the classic chronograph, all set for a journey off the beaten track.

PRICE: CHF 26,800

Eberhard Scafograf 300 MCMLIX

Designed for the adventurous, this mechanical self-winding 43mm timepiece — whose 2016 model won the Best Sports Watch prize in that year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève — incorporates all the technical features required of a dive watch, along with a new brown shade giving it a distinctive vintage look.

PRICE: CHF 3,550

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Watch people JOLA CHUDY

Racing green Partnering with eco-rally championship Extreme E, Zenith is showing its environmental cred. CEO Julien Tornare talks collaboration, innovation and looking to the future.

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‘‘Pilot, over the last 20 years, evoked vintage watches. Now we have something more contemporary, wearable and much more of today’s world” Julien Tornare, CEO, Zenith

GMT GCC: It’s an exciting evolution for the brand to

That future thinking is a pillar for the brand.

partner with the Extreme E championship as its Offi-

It’s also about gender equality because the teams are made

cial Timekeeper and Founding Partner. Can you tell

of one man and one woman driving equally, which is

me why you decided to do this?

excellent. It’s very much in line with our values of female

JT: I’ve been in the industry for 25 years, and many car

empowerment and sustainability. When I met Alejandro,

and watch partnerships have existed. When I came

we clicked and knew we were on the same page.

on board, we had the collaboration with Range Rover, which worked very well, and then I was thinking, ‘Okay,

During Covid, the watch industry was forced to

what’s next?’ I was looking for a different angle and was

change how it spoke to customers, becoming more

introduced to Alejandro Agag, the founder of Formula E

digitalised. And a lot of that has remained. How is the

and about to launch the Extreme E, with SUVs and off-

mood now, generally in the industry, after the impact

road racing. We were about to launch the DEFY Extreme,

of Covid?

which is also about extreme conditions, size and dyna-

For the countries and regions of the world that came out

mism. It was good for us as a very 21st century, innova-

of Covid, what they have in common is that they had an

tive, turn-to-the-future brand to partner with this race.

explosion of happiness and wanted to consume a lot.

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Left: Zenith Pilot Automatic Right: Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

We could feel it last year during the first semester. Markets like

single tourbillon which is a big novelty for us. Also, the Chrono

the US were booming like crazy for six months, but then they got

Master edition with a triple calendar. It’s a new complication

caught up by the new worldwide situation with the cost of living

that’s very cool where you have a month, date, and day that are

and recession.

displayed exquisitely. The Chrono Master New Generation was supposed to be launched in 2020, but we delayed it a year because of the

A new reality began to set in.

Covid situation. So, you have DEFY Chrono Master and still have

It’s a rebalancing; we are all waiting for the new normal. China

Pilot and Elite.

has reopened, and the big question is whether they will have their post-Covid euphoria. There’s still a question mark. We should

And the classic Pilot range is also being updated.

respect and not underestimate the Chinese people who have been

Pilot, over the last 20 years, evoked vintage watches with aged

in a challenging situation for three years. In Switzerland, it was

steel, bronze and crown. Now we have something more contempo-

three months of being tough, and still, it was okay. We’ve been

rary, wearable and much more of today’s world, but always linked

gaining a lot over the last few years in terms of market share and

to our original DNA.

dynamism, So I’m pretty optimistic for the future, but it might be a bit shaky this year, and 2023 might be a transition year.

Zenith’s Pilot range has become synonymous with the brand.

Zenith is probably one of the most, if not the most, legendary

How does that feed into your product offering regarding what

watches in the pilot segment because our founder Georges Favre-

you decide to focus on?

Jacot — and we have the documents — filed a trademark for the

It doesn’t change much because watchmaking is a long production

French word ‘pilate’ in 1888, doing similar with the English word

process. Right now I’m working on what we will launch in 2025

‘pilot’ six years later. While anyone can use the word ‘pilot’ to

and 2026, so what we’re doing now was decided two or three years

describe their watches, Zenith remains the only brand allowed to

ago. We could tactically do a few things during the year, but the

write the word on its dials.

big production lines and timing are so long that you cannot react to short-term things.

That was significantly ahead of the game…

It was years before the first real planes started to fly. If you think

What’s the current focus for Zenith?

about the different pilot watches that exist, this was avant garde.

The main focus at the beginning of the year was the DEFY Extreme.

It was so early from our founder in 1888. He knew flying instru-

There are a couple of new things in DEFY, including one with a

ments would become strong, and we would have watches linked to

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Left: Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback in steel Right: Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback in ceramic

the pilot world someday. In 1909 French pilot Louis Blériot became

Do you enjoy this new approach?

the first man to fly across the English Channel and wore a chrome-

Oh, it’s much better. I couldn’t imagine returning to the old way.

plated Zenith with a black enamel dial. It was all about adventure.

We have two trade shows at what we call the LVMH Watch Week.

Then we have a digital version, and this year we went to Singapore

How is the range being modernised?

and New York. And then we have the more institutional watch

We have a contemporary, beautiful new collection but want some-

industry event in Geneva with Watches and Wonders. Then, of

thing other than a jet fighter or a Top Gun style. Because I don’t

course, all the drops.

believe that today people want to hear about war. We hear enough when we watch the news. We also don’t want to go into the com-

Might the industry need to change more?

mercial jetliners and flying instruments that are too technical that

I’ve been saying for years that I wish the watch shows were open to

nobody’s using. I respect that other brands are doing it very well,

all the brands, not only those inside the Palexpo arena. The whole

but for us, it’s not the spirit of Zenith at all.

city of Geneva should be shining with watches for 10 days in a very open way. Whether you are a big brand and want to be inside this

So it’s more about the emotion and sense of adventure?

arena, or you want to have a suite in a hotel, you’re part of the

At Watches and Wonders, our booth was themed very much around

industry, and we should be together and show some industry spirit

adventure, which aligns with Zenith. You think about Louis

for a few days.

Blériot; it was an adventure to cross the channel then. So that’s where we position the pilot segment for us.

What’s the main benefit of the industry collaborating?

Is the way that watches are being launched changing?

pete for these few days. We should consider how we promote the

During the Covid years, we learned that in the old days, you’d have

industry together because the big challenge is ensuring younger

one main watch show during which we presented all novelties. And

generations still want to buy mechanical watches.

We are competitors within an industry all year, and then we com-

then you don’t talk much for 10 months. Now we have different drops throughout the year. It could be a product, a new ambassa-

That’s a very ‘Zenith’ forward and future-thinking approach.

dor, a campaign, or many different things, but there will be drops

Honestly, this is my opinion. I’ve always said we can compete and

to keep the brand active and dynamic. That’s something we learned

be in the same room. And we are friendly with the brands in this

from the Covid years when we had no other way of doing that but

industry, so why not show it to the public in a better way? Maybe

also from the fashion industry, which has a much faster cycle.

one day.

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Personality RACHEL SILVESTRI

A living legend His watches are among the most rare and soughtafter in the world, but instead of cashing in, Philippe Dufour is now turning his attention to a very worthy cause indeed. GMT GCC looks back on the master watchmaker’s stellar career, and the future of his new charitable foundation.

I

t’s the armchair watchmaker’s dream — tinkering away in your Vallée de Joux workshop, light streaming on to your crowded bench through the tall windows which reveal the lush Swiss countryside beyond. A puff of your

pipe and then it’s back to the grind on another work of genius.

But you don’t do it for the fame or adulation — you do it for the simple love of horology.

If anyone has lived this horological dream then it’s the man widely regarded as the world’s greatest living watchmaker, Philippe Dufour. Now celebrating his 75th birthday, this mas-

ter has spent a lifetime dedicated to capturing the passage of time, from his entrance into the world of horology straight out of school — learning his trade at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de la Vallée de Joux before putting it into practice at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet — to his masterstrokes:

the first time a Philippe Dufour timepiece had succeeded under

the development of the grand sonnerie minute repeater and the

the gavel — 2017 saw a Simplicity go for US$1 million, and a spe-

double balance wheel.

cial edition Simplicity was offered by Philippe himself to cel-

His Sonnerie, Duality and Simplicity models, all highly lim-

ebrate its 20th anniversary, selling for in excess of US$1.5 mil-

ited and amongst the most sought-after watches in the world,

lion. But it’s the finesse with which he hand-finishes each and

are all the more tantalising when considering that Philippe’s

every timepiece that leaves his workshop that truly sets him

waiting list is so long that he is no longer taking orders. In 2021,

apart as a legend in his own time.

the first Grande et Petite Sonnerie No. 1 was sold for US$5.21

Not satisfied to simply rest on his laurels, Philippe’s recent

million, making it the most expensive timepiece made by an

75th birthday bash became the moment for a launch of a dif-

independent watchmaker to ever be sold at auction. It wasn’t

ferent kind: the big reveal of the new Philippe & Elisabeth

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Top left: Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Bottom left: Philippe celebrates his 75th birthday and the beginning of his new Foundation Right: Philippe Dufour Duality

Dufour Foundation. At a chic reception at the Hôtel

ardently desire to do what we can to alleviate the suf-

des Horlogers, friends of the Dufour family — includ-

fering and despair of the most deprived individuals

ing fellow master watchmakers, collectors and

by contributing our part to the greater good. As the

ambassadors from Cameroon and Haiti — listened

saying goes, ‘Little streams make big rivers.’”

intently as the foundation’s humanitarian purpose

In support of his new project, Philippe has pro-

was revealed. Intending to support projects in Latin

duced a truly breathtaking one-off Simplicity,

America, Africa, Asia the Middle East and even as

with three-six-nine-12 numerals and a deep blue

close to home as the Vallée de Joux, this ambitious

aventurine dial, the only one of its kind and com-

and wide-ranging foundation has plans to address

pletely unique. It’ll be auctioned off later this year,

needs such as hunger, access to clean water, inad-

which has every watch lover wondering just how

equate housing and access to education and health-

much could this timepiece go for? But one thing

care, as well as tackling environmental issues too.

is certain — whichever way things go, now that

“We wanted a philanthropic foundation that is

Philippe’s watches range into the millions at auc-

open to all the major challenges the world is facing,

tion, it’ll give the Foundation just the boost it needs

with a future that appears rather bleak,” states the

to get well and truly off the ground. A perfect use

foundation’s Founders’ Message. “There are urgent

for what could possibly be the perfect watch.

situations, whether humanitarian, environmental, educational, or public health-related. We do not claim to be able to solve all the problems, but we

Visit www.dufourfondation.org for more details

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155

Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

Philippe Dufour celebrates his 75th Birthday in style The master of modern watchmaking was tickled pink at his recent birthday celebration, as friends and family gathered to congratulate him on his three-quarter-century milestone. Ageing as well as his lauded timepieces, it was an elegant day-to-night affair as invitees dined under a magnificent marquee and enjoyed mixing with horology’s great and good. Excellent food, drinks and company — one could say that throwing the perfect birthday party is Simplicity itself. Happy birthday, Philippe!

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Zoom: Watches and Wonders RACHEL SILVESTRI

Record figures for a star-studded Watches and Wonders Geneva Almost doubling its number of visitors — from 22,000 in 2022 to this year’s whopping 43,000 — footfall at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva was unprecedented. As always, the real stars were the timepieces — but that didn’t stop a host of big names stopping by to take a look too, from legendary sport stars Roger Federer, Ronaldinho and Eileen Gu to global darlings of the silver screen Julia Roberts and Edward Chen. GMT GCC’s very own publisher and GPHG jury member Deremi Ajidahun was there in amongst all the action, rubbing shoulders with watchmaking’s best and brightest during what will remain a week to remember.

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Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

The indomitable women of the Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc rule the desert, with the support of KF Masterpieces In a show of supreme mastery of both the mental and physical challenge of the gruelling Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc, more than 350 women of more than 30 different nationalities took part in this epic race. Starting from Nice and taking in the Moroccan wilderness, over the course of a week these ‘Gazelles’ completed stage after stage of challenges, aiming to complete each day in the shortest distance possible. Under the patronage of Morocco’s HM King Mohammed VI, competitors drove quads, SSVs, 4x4s and fully electric vehicles through the desert in an expression of the rally’s founding values: courage, the pushing of one’s limits, loyalty, solidarity and environmental and social commitment. We’re looking forward to 2024’s edition already.

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Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

Stars flock to party at Hublot’s Ibiza pop-up A constellation of international names descended on Ibiza’s renowned Ushuaïa hotspot to toast Hublot’s new pop-up concept as well as the launch of the summer-ready Classic Fusion Chronograph Ibiza, a vivid blue ceramic number perfectly suited to the Balearic isle. With Middle Eastern personalities Annabella Hilal and Deema Al Asadi in attendance, as well as friend of the brand Usain Bolt, Aashram star Esha Gupta and Swedish-Sudanese model Jamilla Strand partying alongside Spanish royal Victoria de Marichalar y Borbón and home-grown stars Claudia Salas and Miguel Bernardeau, it was an international night to remember. And with the pop-up set to operate all summer long — just like the previously successful Mykonos, Capri and Porto Cervo editions — there’s plenty of time to snag your new favourite summer accessory.

Annabella Hilal

Hublot Ambassador Usain Bolt

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Deema Al Asadi

Esha Gupta

Victoria Federica, Tomas Paramo and Katia Gutierrez Colomer

Jamila Strand

Victoria de Marichalar y Borbón

Sam Salter

Madior and Malwyn Burkhalter

Tim Schaecker

Claudia Salas and Miguel Bernardeau

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Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

Hats and high fashion at the Dubai World Cup Style Stakes The culmination of a stylish racing season in partnership with Hats&Horses, the EMAAR-sponsored Style Stakes competition took place on the day of the Dubai World Cup, on March 25th, where all eyes were on the fabulous outfits on show as well as following the excitement of Dubai’s biggest race day. Online sustainable fashion boutique Goshopia, which won last year’s Style Stakes with a fully sustainable look, was present at the Dubai World Cup as well as the whole fashion and racing season, which included Meydan Racecourse’s first dedicated Ladies’ Night on February 3rd and Super Saturday Ladies’ Day on March 4th. This year’s Best Dressed Couple title was snatched up by a pair wearing local national dress for the first time ever, with a Dhs54,000 prize going home with the stylish duo.

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Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

Van Cleef & Arpels sees red in Riyadh and Kuwait City with new Alhambra Carnelian Collection Van Cleef & Arpels’s whimsical world is always a draw for fans of the heritage Maison, so it’s no surprise that exclusive presentations of the bold new Alhambra Carnelian Collection in Kuwait and Saudi Arabia drew an adoring crowd. Demonstrating the finer points of new pieces featuring deep red carnelian set in warm rose gold, the presentations showcased the collection which includes a Vintage Alhambra long necklace and bracelet, and a delicate Sweet Alhambra watch. Guests marvelled at the fine guilloché of the rose gold four-leaf clovers, all finished off with the signature Perlée edging. Refined events for these sensational pieces.

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Jet set

ALLISSA PATAKI & RACHEL SILVESTRI

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AIS COLLECTIVE CHRONOPEN

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Swiss-made, hand-assembled and carefully engineered, this sleek and precise pen keeps favorite timepieces clean and well-maintained. To pair with the newly launched ChronoLeatherPen, whose beeswax and jojoba oil solution keeps leather straps looking and performing their best. The ideal gift for watch enthusiasts!

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In collaboration with Nikolai Winter, Gübelin launches its first two-finger cocktail ring, set with the finest yellow sapphires and marquise-cut diamonds. Its sparkling central ‘Royal Blue’ gem pays tribute to Myanmar’s national emblem: the rosewood. A remarkable work of art!

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S BY SALANITRO MIRROR

Inspired by the Mexican Day of the Dead, Aline Erbeia and S by Salanitro Spiegel have teamed up to create a spectacular mirror made of 1,277 precious and semi-precious stones, conveying messages of peace, serenity and harmony through the gems that compose it.

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GÜBELIN JEWELLERY ROYAL ALLURE

GOLDMUND PULP WIRELESS ACTIVE SPEAKER

Made in Geneva, Goldmund’s latest sleek audio masterpiece is not only a feast for the eyes, but also for the ears, thanks to its crisp 360° sound that gives music lovers a concert-like experience at home.

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VALENTIN DESIGN MY43M YACHT

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Geneva-based Valentin Design has created a 43-metre custom-made yacht that exudes subtle yet omnipresent luxury through its innovative open concept aesthetic.

The yacht features a large master suite and massive bathing platform, as well as a sundeck spa, ensuring pure enjoyment while discovering remote locations or relaxing on the outdoor decks.

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ZENITH’S DEFY 21 ULTRA COLOUR BOX SET

Zenith introduces the Ultra Colour Box Set in an exclusive limited eight-piece edition featuring eight Defy 21 timepieces, whose in-house El Primero chronograph movement, accurate to 1/100th of a second, has a monochrome finish on the bridges and oscillating weight.

AJMAL PERFUMES SHADOW ICE

When it comes to scents an experienced nose is essential, so any new release from 70-year-old parfumier Ajmal is cause for excitement. Evoking ethereal beauty and dark mystique, Shadow Ice blends bergamot and mandarin with a floral heart and base notes of Middle Eastern favourites wood, sandalwood and musk to create an enigmatic perfume for day and evening.

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ASTON MARTIN DB12

It’s a British icon — and the next generation is here. With the unveiling of the new DB12, Aston Martin toasts a new era of sports cars in celebration of its 110th anniversary. Ultra luxe and with the ultimate in high performance, we’re sure even Bond himself would approve.

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Headliner RACHEL SILVESTRI

Three things worth knowing about

Melika Yazdjeri

Co-founder, Perpétuel

1. She’s a dyed-in-the-wool disrupter.

As the co-founder of luxury horological consultancy Ashfields as well as fine watchmaking gallery Perpétuel – situated in Dubai’s DIFC – Melika’s intension for these twin businesses was to cause a stir within the watch community: “When I co-founded Ashfields and Perpétuel, it was not only a personal challenge but an opportunity to disrupt a very traditional industry by creating one of the most sought-after portfolios of independent watch brands and world-first collaborations with iconic watchmakers,” she says. “It makes me proud to see other entrepreneurs out there creating client-centric destinations and collaborating with watch brands, which is a niche that was created by Perpétuel in 2020.”

2. After almost 12 years working for Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons, as well as being one of the names behind the creation of Dubai Watch Week, she knows a thing or two about niche brands.

As the driving force behind the ultra-exclusive nature of Perpétuel’s timepieces, Melika selected in-the-know brands such as Hoffman, Krayon and Atelier de Chronométrie to collaborate with. Plus, any Derek Pratt watch produced over the period of five years that began in 2021 will be exclusively sold at Perpétuel – Melika secured the exclusive rights of sale for this Luca Soprana-resurrected brand name for half a decade.

Quite the coup.

3. Her favourite timepieces are a pair of Pateks Citing her vintage stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus and her Aquanaut as her most meaningful watches, Melika shows her sentimental side – they were her first ever Pateks, and remain her favourites. But she’s just as likely to be spotted with a cult Krayon Anywhere or a Singer Reimagined Flytrack on her wrist.

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