Hospitality Magazine April 2012

Page 1

No.682 April 2012

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

n

accommodation

n

beverage

n

management

Kitchen helpers The new appliances chefs love PLUS 11 of the latest new arrivals

Rise of the barista How valuable is that person working your coffee machine?

Get cosy for less Tips for controlling outdoor heating costs this winter

BIG BROTHER OR BIG BOTHER Print Post Approved PP349181/00109

The laws around using CCTV

Sweet homecoming Dessert queen Katrina Kanetani’s new regional restaurant

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PUBLISHER Michelle Graves michelle.graves@reedbusiness.com.au EDITOR

Editor’s Note

Rosemary Ryan Ph: (02) 9422 2880 rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au JOURNALIST Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 9422 2667 danielle.bowling@reedbusiness.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Christine Salins Ken Burgin Tony Berry ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 9422 2481 Fax: (02) 9422 2863 rhonnie.merry@reedbusiness.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER

top restaurants in Sydney or Melbourne. So what made it so good that I found myself telling friends - and now you - about it? It was pretty straightforward – the waiter’s welcome and her genuine effort to make our experience a good one. And the attention to detail – down to the spinach pie we ordered and planned to share delivered divided and plated up separately for us – finished off with a fresh little salad on the side. The bill arrived promptly

A SMALL independent café in a shopping centre food court in one of our major regional cities brought home to me recently how incredibly powerful excellent service can be. It also got me thinking about how simple it can be to deliver in theory but so hard for many in practice. In this particular food court in one of the less salubrious parts of town I was caught by surprise by the level of personal and charming service that would be just as at home in one of our

with a smile - and a couple of lollipops. And as we left there was a “goodbye” and a “thanks for coming”. The experience was in contrast to a trip with my family a few days before to another café – also located in a shopping centre – albeit a very shiny new one. This bigger café with its sleek fit-out was staffed by a seeming cast of thousands of young waiters. But despite their numbers we waited almost an hour for a few coffees and some serves of cake while the tables around us sat covered in the remains of the previous customers’ meals. At the entrance to the café the remnants of a spilled milkshake were stepped over by staff who seemed to wander aimlessly in and out of the door as

we watched and wished for them to have our orders in their hands. Where was the manager? Where was the training? I only relate this story out of frustration. All the research keeps telling us that service is one of the most important parts of hospitality for punters – it’s a key part of what will keep your customers coming back. I’m pretty sure these young people don’t set out to annoy the hell out of their customers. Those businesses who truly understand what hospitality is all about are at all levels of the industry - starting at a tiny cafe in a shop-

Rosemary Ryan

Ronnie Lawrence Ph: (02) 9422 2741 PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Laura Panameno Ph: (02) 9422 8772 laura.panameno@reedbusiness.com.au PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Troy Stevens Ph: (02) 9422 8748 SUBSCRIPTIONS

contents 6 News

13 Secret ingredients

Chefs jam at Melbourne food fest 2012. Restaurant closures in Sydney’s dining mecca.

Q&A with The Commoner’s Jo Corrigan.

14 Hospitality chef Katrina Kanetani’s new regional NSW venture.

Ph: 1300 360 126 ONE YEAR: $132.00 incl GST TWO YEARS: $220.00 incl GST

8 Openings Latest restaurant arrivals.

Ross Lusted’s The Bridge Room gets a visit.

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REED BUSINESS INFORMATION PTY LTD SYDNEY HEAD OFFICE Tower 2, 475 Victoria Avenue, Chatswood, NSW 2067 Australia Ph: (02) 9422 2999 Fax: (02) 9422 2863

12 Workplace Tips for managing the use of CCTV in the workplace.

24 Kitchen fire power

11 things today’s chefs need to know.

Smart technology making kitchens more productive and creative.

No.682 April 2012

ON THE COVER: n

accommodation

n

beverage

n

management

The new appliances chefs love PLUS 11 of the latest new arrivals

Average Net Distribution Period ending September 11

Rise of the barista How valuable is that person working your coffee machine?

Get cosy for less

hospitality | april 2012

21 Great outdoors

31 Burgin

Kitchen helpers

4

We explore the value of a professional barista.

The winemakers behind the Riesling revolution.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

foodservice

Tips for controlling outdoor heating costs this winter

BIG BROTHER OR BIG BOTHER The laws around using CCTV Print Post Approved PP349181/00109

MATERIAL The publisher does not accept responsibility for any editorial or advertising material forwarded or held in storage nor will material be automatically returned. Whole or part of this publication cannot be reproduced without prior written approval from Hospitality’s management.

19 Coffee stars

How to keep your valuable al fresco customers warm without over heating costs.

17 Imbibe 9 Mystery diner

Features

Sweet homecoming

Dessert queen Katrina Kanetani’s new regional restaurant

Gracing the cover of this month’s issue is one of the sublime desserts - a banana souffle - from Katrina Kanetani, one of our most acclaimed chefs who we profile in this issue of Hospitality magazine. Kanetani, who has worked with some of the biggest international names and who wowed Australian diners for many years at Greg Doyle’s then three hat Sydney restaurant Pier with her beautiful creations, has returned to the northern New South Wales area where she began her

career to open a restaurant with her husband, also a talented chef. In the story starting on page 14 Danielle Bowling talks to Kanetani about the new venture in Bangalow that incorporates both a fine dining restaurant and a cafe. While the early morning starts have been a shock says Kanetani, she is relishing the experience, particularly loving the produce that is right on her doorstep. Our lovely cover image is from the book Pier by Greg Doyle published by Murdoch Books.

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news

Ideas

Chef Jam: international and local stars cook up sweet industry ideas Some of the world’s most high profile chefs joined with our local stars and most promising up and comers at the industry focused Chef Jam event at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. Carol Rothschild was there. WITH MUCH anticipation, this day was to be special as chef royalty from around the world converged in Melbourne, to share, discuss and expound the latest in ideas at Chef Jam - The Future of Food. Hosted by the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival this day was for the industry, those up and coming young and enthusiastic people who invade our cafes, kitchens, bars and the hospitality industry. Together with the best of local and international chefs and leaders in the industry, we sat down to ‘chew the fat’. At a time when many hospitality operators are finding it hard to fill positions with chefs and front of house trained professionals, this unique industry event allowed everyone to be inspired, to nurture ideas of greatness, to find gems of artistic creations that have come from childhood memories and embellished on the plate for all to share. The line-up this year included René Redzepi from Noma in Copenhagen, the number one restaurant on the San Pellegrino list, together with David Chang from Momofuku, Ben Shewry from Attica, Peter Gilmore from Quay, the colourful Massimo Bottura from Osteria Francescana, and also some local protégée chefs. A trend for chefs to convey their thoughts, ideas and their artistic creations via the use of movies paired with some live cooking proved to be the new ‘food-porn’ for the day. We were taken under the sea to the coral below and then delicately placed back on land with a creation of such magnitude that we felt the heart of the chef in every picture he created on the plate. With his newest outpost Momofuku Seiobo now operating at Sydney’s newly revitalised Star complex, David Chang is the uber cool chef and he finds food microbiology very interesting. At the innovative. ‘MAD Food Camp’ in Denmark, Chang said he found several other chefs 6

hospitality | april 2012

Chef royalty chew the culinary fat: Clockwise from top: Massimo Bottura, Rene Redzepi, Peter Gilmore and David Chang.

around the world also inspired to find their own koji and miso fermentations. “If chefs are making their own miso with other microbes from another country are they the products from that country? Where does the culinary journey take us when we are trying to recreate a product that is normally associated with another country,” he said. Such are the questions in the conversations amongst our elite chefs. Throughout the Chef Jam sessions chefs took part in various panel discussions. One session looked at the topic ‘Longevity in the Industry” with panelists including Neil Perry, Julian Gerner from the Melbourne Pub Group and Paul Mathis, renowned for the many establishments he has been involved with, and also the many closures, in recent times. Gerner is one of the leaders in the pub scene having recreated unique spaces into feel good environments for super cool crowds with many of the older pubs in Melbourne. His unique interpretation for the upcoming trends and his partnership with chef Paul Wilson has been one of the big stories in the industry

in Melbourne with venues like the Newmarket Hotel icon in St Kilda which is leading the way with the Mexican revolution. Gerner said location is all important. “You need a landmark location, an old hotel, the best real estate and a prominent site to make it work,” he said. “The energy needs to come from the building. You need to inhabit the space before the doors open.” Ben Shewry captivated the audience with his ‘movies’ and his dishes as he brought to life the story of the sea and the food found close to the shore or in sea. Another inspirational session focused on the Young Guns, starring

the three head chefs behind the stoves at the prestigious end of town including Cory Campbell from Vue de Monde, Josh Murphy from Cumulus (The Age’s Young Chef of the Year), and The Press Club’s Joe Grbac. One of the leaders and most influential chefs in the world, Noma’s Redzepi was part of the panel dicussing the topic “Rediscovering the Native Voice”, along with his fellow renowned Danes, Claus Henriksen from Dragsholm Castle and Christian Puglisi from Relae. Unique in their perspective of food, all three share a passion for sourcing food close to their kitchens. The humble Redzepi said he continues to learn and discover. “The more I learn, the less I understand,” he said. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

news

The industry

More restaurant closures ahead? Restaurateur and chef Jared Ingersoll’s Cotton Duck has been another high profile casualty in Sydney’s competitive Surry Hills dining destination. HIGH profile Sydney chef Jared Ingersoll’s closure of his second Sydney restaurant not only saddened the fans of the eatery but also sent shivers through parts of the industry as pressures on foodservice industry continue to grow. Ingersoll announced he was closing Cotton Duck, the restaurant he opened in late 2010 in the busy dining area of Surry Hills, and would focus on his popular Danks Street Depot operation. Ingersoll said while there had been specific issues related to Cotton Duck, the instability and increased cost pressures on the business had played a role in his decision to close the business while it was still able to pay its debts. “I’ve been in this industry for a long time and the idea of working hard and the challenges are fine with me,” Ingersoll told Hospitality magazine. “But the reality is people are these days much more careful about how much they spend and where they spend it. And at the same time there’s also been the upward pressure of the cost of goods, your wages bill, the PPCA trying to gouge you for a bit more, the food bills, so the margins have just become tighter and tighter. So you have the financial climate HOSPITALITYMAGAZINE.COM.AU

MOST READ STORIES 1 Meat and Wine Co closes Sydney restaurant 2 Sydney food trucks prepare to start engines 3 Chefs go mad with bacon 4 Hotels pledge hour of darkness and more 5 Rise in rural pubs for sale Source: hospitalitymagazine.com. au March 26 - March 30

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- there is a lot of uncertainty - and also you have the situation in Surry Hills. There are just more and more places opening up and it is becoming more and more competitive and harder. There were some problems specific to what we were trying to do but I know from talking to other people that there is less fat. It’s hard at the moment.” Cotton Duck is the third high profile restaurant to close in the Surry Hills area in recent times following on from Bird Cow Fish and Tabou. Jeremy and Jane Strode’s acclaimed bistro Bistrode was also put on the market by the couple last year as Jeremy Strode focused on his role at the Merivale hospitality group.

Ingersoll said he plans to redirect his focus to Danks Street Depot, with aims to particularly build its dinner trade. He also hinted of more to come in the extension of the Danks Street Depot brand following the success of its Sydney Airport offshoot. He said the strength of the outlet reflected research by his partners showing that over the past two years there had been a swing by people from “cheap and quick” to “quality and value for money”. Meanwhile, as Hospitality went to print rumours were circulating that Melbourne chef Frank Camorra was eyeing the Cotton Duck site for his first foray into Sydney with his Movida brand.

in brief Pork your way to New York Australian Pork has again declared this month the festival of the pig. It’s again kicked off PorkFest, a foodservice focused celebration of the wonderful magical animal that’s offering restaurants the chance to win on the spot prizes for promoting pork dishes on their menu, as well as offering the grand prize of a trip to New York and dinner at David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant. Head to porkfest,com.au for all the details.

Sustainable cafe Taronga Park Zoo’s Compass Group operated Café Harbourview has become the first restaurant in Australia to become certified under the Marine Stewardship Council’s (MSC) seafood sustainbility certification program. It gained the MSC Chain of Custody certification that allows it to display the MSC’s blue Ecolabel next to certified seafood products on its menu after the Compass Group, the zoo’s catering partner, recently completed the rigorous certification process. The certification was unveiled as part of the annual Sustainable Seafood Day event run by the MSC.

SA hotel hit with big fines

Joint champions: Ryan Grant (left), and Michael Frenkiel with mentors Ben Russell (Aria), and Adam D’Sylva (Coda) after their win at Cook for your Career.

Fifteen-year-old apprentice eyes big future IT WAS an eventful week for aspiring young Queensland chef Ryan Grant. On March 13 the 15-year-old school based apprentice was part of the three person brigade from the Gold Coast’s Little Truffle Restaurant led by chef and owner Daniel Ridgeway to win the Australian Culinary Federation Qld’s Restaurant of Champions culinary competition held at Fine Food Queensland. Then three days later he was named one of two apprentices named joint winners of this year’s Cook for your Career competition held in Melbourne as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, competing against others much older than him. The announcement that the judges couldn’t separate Grant and his fellow competitor Michael Frenkiel, from Victoria, followed a tense cook off. Guest judge Melbourne chef Shane Delia said both produced outstanding dishes, and showed great talent. “Both demonstrated strong culinary skills, ingredient knowledge and outstanding presentation.”

The operators of a South Australian hotel have been fined over underpayments and false staff records, following litigation by the Fair Work Ombudsman. The operators of the Sportsman’s Hotel at Millicent, in South Australia, have been fined a total of $55,900 after underpaying five staff and directing employees to falsify time sheets. Federal Magistrate Denys Simpson found five casual staff at the Sportsman’s Hotel were underpaid a total of $48,098 between 2006 and 2009.

Sign up for our next webinar The date for Hospitality’s next free webinar in conjunction with leading hospitality industry consultant Ken Burgin is April 24. With the topic “Successful Recruitment and Retention of Young Staff” it will feature an interview with Jean Francois Celerier, from the iconic Nathania Springs reception centre. Register at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

hospitality | april 2012

7

openings

Chiswick Restaurant and Bar The much anticipated new restaurant from chef Matt Moran and his partner Peter Sullivan (who together form the Morsul Group) has opened in the well heeled Sydney suburb of Woollahra, with Chiswick quickly becoming the place to be seen. Transforming the iconic site of the former Prunier’s restaurant, its very beautiful English conservatory look partners with its attached 150 square metre kitchen garden that will be providing the chefs with fresh produce. Opened: March Owners: Matt Moran & Peter Sullivan Head chef: Tim Bryan Seats: 150 with 50 more in the bar area The food: The focus is seasonal produce and dishes designed for sharing with the wood oven making its presence known in many of the dishes. The menu ranges from “Nibbles” like a veal slider “vitello tonnato”, small plates including Pulled Veal Ravioli, Broad Beans, Cornichons, Shiso, and Salt cured Tuna, Cucumber, Coriander, Seaweed, Sesame, mains like Steamed Fillet of Trevella, Tomatoes, Garden Herbs, or Char-grilled Moran family Grass Fed Beef, Fresh Horseradish and “To Share” dishes like Wood Roasted Moran family Lamb, Chick Peas, Mint. Address: 65 Ocean Street, Woollahra P: 02 8388 8688 W: chiswickrestaurant.com.au

Spencer Guthrie

Pei Modern

With decades of experience between them, chefs Troy Spencer and Oliver Guthrie have opened their inner western Sydney restaurant around six years after first meeting over the stoves at Darren Simpson’s La Sala. Spencer was most recently head chef at L’Etoile and Guthrie has been sous chef at Lucio’s. The pair say they discovered a common passion - delicious food with a conscience.

The much anticipated first foray into Melbourne by Sydney’s acclaimed chef Mark Best takes the name of the Chinese-American architect I.M.Pei who designed Collins Place where it’s located. And while the attention to detail and quality of produce evident at Marque, Best’s Sydney fine diner, is also here at Pei Modern this is a very different place - for a start it’s open from 8am!

Opened: February Chef/owners: Troy Spencer & Oliver Guthrie Seats: 30 The food: Honest Mod Oz food with an eye on sustainability is how Spencer and Guthrie describe their food. Starters include dishes like Roasted Heirloom Carrots, Fennel, Chocolate and Coffee; and Charred Squid, Smoked Tomatoes, Chilli and Puffed Rice, with mains including flavours like Pork Belly, Caramelised Peaches, Red Onion and Watercress; and Yellow Coorong Mullet, Purslane, Sorrel and Preserved Lime. The “Something Sweet” list features desserts like Chocolate Tart with Buttermilk Ice-cream; and Orange Scented Ricotta Cake with Olive Oil and Thyme Ice-cream. Address: 399 King Street, Newtown P: (02) 8068 1080 W: spencerguthrie.com 8

hospitality | april 2012

Opened: March Owner: Mark Best, in conjunction with Peter Bartholomew and David Mackintosh of the Movida Group. Head chef: Matt Germanchis Seats: 130 The food: Best has designed a more accessible menu for Pei Modern than at his three hat Sydney fine diner Marque and its degustation focused menu. But it still reflects Best’s modern culinary style and love of fine produce. On the menu are dishes ranging from Sauternes Custard and Crostoli; Boudin Blanc Lentils and Roast Apple; to Almond Gazpacho with Blue Swimmer Crab; and Roast Rabbit with Saltbush, Sea Parsley and Wakame. Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne P: (03) 9654 8545 W: peimodern.com.au hospitalitymagazine.com.au

mysterydiner

The Bridge Room Ross and Sunny Lusted’s long awaited, and long planned, Sydney restaurant has been receiving rave reviews since it opened at the end of last year in Sydney’s CBD. Our diner discovers it’s everything he expected and much more as well.

mysterydiner I HEAD to The Bridge Room to catch up with an old friend from college who used to work just around the corner. He’s impressed with the makeover of this once Indian place, as am I. It looks like a cross between a Frank Lloyd Wright building of the 1930s and a five star Scandinavian hotel – or so I imagine, as I’ve never been to either. I did, however, plant my sizable frame through the door and was impressed from start to finish. There is a polish to this restaurant that may not be immediately visible, but it’s in the nuances and touches, from a comfortable chair to the felt wall decoration that helps numb the usual restaurant hum. Two sets of doors provide a noise and wind break from the bustle of inner Sydney city and Ross Lusted (ex Rockpool in the 90s before heading to Asia for 10 years) and his crack team run this elegant restaurant with style and turn out some really interesting food. We’re seated in the centre of the long, slender room and the seats are indeed as comfy as they look. The menu isn’t a long one, but has interesting choice and is a showcase to Lusted’s prodigious talent. Six entrées, six mains and five desserts with cheese. These are augmented with some great sounding spoken specials. One of these piques the interest of my friend. It’s a warm Comte Cheese Custard (yep, that put me off a little too) ($26) in a Serrano Ham nest with fine slices of nectarine and fig. However, it’s a triumph. The smoky, meaty flavours of the ham melt into the warm cheese while the sweetness of the fruits provides another layer of flavour. Prawns ($32) for me and these are split, twisted looking efforts, but again the flavours and textures are divine. Translucent slices of Lardo (that wonderful smoked pork that is more fat than meat) are draped over the prawns and salad and topping this are golden slices of fried garlic. The salad and sprouts are dressed with a crisp acidity and it all comes together with a black bean and chilli sauce. As I gaze at the very amateur photo I took to remind myself of the dish, and then write about it, my mouth started watering all over again. It had heat, crunch, depth, pork and prawns…We lean into a fine bottle of pinot from Dalrymple ($65) as an accompaniment. Marvellous. Mains provide more culinary wonder. The Duck ($44), consumed with relish by my friend, was done in an Italian style with braised Tuscan cabbage, pressed figs, raisins and an interesting lemon alternative called Cedro. With a dry spice rub and then delicate, slow, 10

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grilling over coals, the duck remained beautifully and evenly pink through the flesh. Three fat breast slices are draped across the plate centre with the moist raisins as garnish. Super. I’ve headed to the Darling Downs for steak ($44) - the 6+ wagyu sirloin. Cooked perfectly medium rare, it comes with a roll of sliced beetroot, fried shallot rings and a garnish of grilled parsley. To add to the meatiness of the plate, there’s a small pile on top of the steak of succulent bone marrow in a rich red wine reduction that drizzles down the sides of the steak. A bowl of decadent mash helps absorb the proteins and its velvet nature is a complement to both mains. I was perplexed by the painted stain circling the dessert plate and couldn’t line it up with the menu. It was the Chocolate Cannelon ($17) and came with Campos caramel, aerated chocolate bar and raspberries. I scraped at the paint and it was bitter on my tongue. The waiter helped me out. It was a caramelised coffee reduction made with Campos coffee – sure, it makes sense when you know, and the bitter really did cut across the sweet chocolate notes with the raspberries singing in the background. This description really cannot convey the artistic delight that presented itself in front of me with quenelles of smooth chocolate adorned with icing sugar dusted wafer. Strawberry, marshmallow and meringue ($18) sat ahead of my dining companion. With strawberry ripple, a dried strawberry ‘paper’ rolled up and angled toward him and soft centred meringue to the right, it was all creamy, leathery and crisp and proved a cleansing and delightful way to finish this wonderful meal. The Bridge Room is an excellent addition to

the top end of Sydney’s CBD. The team here have clearly put plenty of thought into the type of hospitality they wish to provide. It is stylish without the flashy bits that can detract from some places, the food is absolutely outstanding and Ross has been sensible enough to place great emphasis on doing a small choice well – a lesson for many restaurants in that. The floor team works seamlessly and I applaud their effortless appearance and the no fuss way that a dropped napkin was replaced with a fresh one before my companion knew it had even hit the floor. This very simple act of anticipation typifies the sort of good hosting that sets a restaurant such as this from the everyday. May it do very well.

The details The Bridge Room 44 Bridge Street, Sydney P: (02) 9247 7000 W: thebridgeroom.com.au Owners: Sunny & Ross Lusted, the Fink Group. Chef: Ross Lusted Open: For lunch, Tuesday to Friday; dinner, Tuesday to Sunday The verdict: Many things set The Bridge Room apart from the everyday from the food to the exemplary service. Lovely is a word that comes to mind every time I think of it - an excellent addition to the top end of Sydney’s CBD.

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Great food deserves great tableware.

Contact WWRD Customer Service on 1300 852 022 to enquire about our Royal Doulton Commercialware distributors. Pattern featured: Loop.

workplace

Big brother or big bother? The extent that surveillance cameras can be used at work remains a hot topic. Restaurant and Catering Australia’s workplace relations team explores the issue.

About Us The Foodservice Industry Association is a non-profit organisation formed in 1985 to organise and manage Hospitality and Catering Expos throughout regional NSW. The events provide an opportunity for members and non-members to promote their products and services to all sectors of the foodservice and associated industries. By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The Foodservice Industry Association has established itself as the leader in the regional Foodservice & Catering Expo/ Trade Show field. The association is managed by industry professionals from our membership, with some of Australia’s leading Foodservice providers at the helm, including Bayview Seafoods, Sara Lee, Clorox, Patties Foods, Ingham’s, Ready Bake, Murray Goulburn and Peerless Foods, just to name a few.

Vision Statement The Foodservice Industry Association is committed to the ongoing growth and development of the industry and our members by continuing to deliver high quality, high value trade shows and exhibitions throughout regional NSW. These expos and trade shows give a broad range of industry users the opportunity to meet and compare and discuss the latest trends in the Food Services Industry. By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The FIA – NSW has established itself as the leader in the regional Expo/Trade Show field

Upcoming shows BATHURST - MAY 15th Tuesday - 11am to 7pm PANTHERS - William St, Bathurst NSW 2795 NOWRA - JULY 24th Tuesday - 11am to 7pm SHOALHAVEN ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE Bridge Rd, Nowra NSW 2541 CANBERRA - OCTOBER 16th - 17th Tuesday - 3pm to 7pm, Wednesday - 10am to 4pm CANBERRA - TBA PORT MACQUARIE - NOVEMBER 13th - 14th Tuesday - 3pm to 7pm, Wednesday - 10am to 4pm THE PORT MACQUARIE SPORTS STADIUM Cnr of Hastings River Dr & Hibbard Dr, Port Macquarie

For any enquiries please contact Melinda Snow Foodservice Industry Association NSW Inc

PO Box 4062, BAY VILLAGE NSW 2261 Tel: 02 43341114 Fax: 02 43341114 Mob: 0422 087 488 melinda@foodservice.org.au

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hospitality | april 2012

IT’S NOT unusual these days to notice a few surveillance cameras when it comes to day to day living. Melbourne City Council alone has around 54 CCTV cameras in place to assist police tackle crime. That’s all well and good for the protection of the community but what about surveillance in the workplace? We all have the expectation of being provided with a safe and secure place of work and some businesses also have a legislative or licencing requirements to ensure the physical security of their site is “adequate” but to what extent video and other surveillance in the workplace can be used remains a vexed issue. Under the Surveillance Devices Act 1999 (VIC) an employer must not knowingly use an optical surveillance device; or a listening device to observe, listen to, record or monitor the activities or conversations of a worker in a toilet, washroom, change room or lactation room. In NSW the Workplace Surveillance Act 2005 (NSW) has even more onerous requirements for employers but allows surveillance in the workplace as long as the employees are provided with notice prior to the surveillance commencing - taking note that a new employee is to be notified before the commencement of their employment that there is surveillance devices installed at their prospective workplace. Most employers in the hospitality industry, for instance gaming venues and licensed bars and clubs, and their employees have an understanding and appreciation for the little domes in the corner of the room. In theory it keeps them safe and provides an avenue for redress if any untoward actions happen. But when does the use of cameras in the workplace be-

come a problem? There’s been a number of recent cases before the Fair Work Australia (FWA) Tribunal where despite conclusive video surveillance of employees engaged in misconduct the existence of such evidence is still subject to the rules of procedural fairness and compliance by the employer with any regulatory requirements. In unionised workplaces the use of surveillance devices can create other types of disputes such as those in United Voice v Schweppes Australia [2012] FWA 46 where the union alleged the company breached the terms of an enterprise agreement when it upgraded its security system. The union’s concern was that the original surveillance system comprised eight cameras and the upgraded system comprised 18 and therefore, as the word “existing” is present when talking about cameras in their Agreement, the business would not be able to utilise the new surveillance system as it would be in breach of the enterprise agreement. I hear you ask, “okay so if they already had cameras in the first place, what’s the issue?” The new cameras broadened the scope of what the old system could capture and the organisation had an agreement that the cameras could and would only

be used for security of site and product rather than capturing evidence that could be used in performance based issues and as the scope was increased and would capture some workers in their day to day activity. The decision in this case was based on intent. The original camera system provided poor quality imaging and the monitor was able to be seen by any employee walking past while the upgraded system provided clear imaging and a stringent approval process to be able to access and view the images. In the decision by FWA Australia it was found the installation of a new camera system in the Schweppes site was not in breach of their Enterprise Agreement and they were able to retain and continue operating the newly installed cameras. Restaurant and Catering Australia argues the extension of government regulation into workplace surveillance and business management areas only creates more red tape and unintended consequences where employees engaged in theft and other types of misconduct may escape disciplinary action because the employer failed to comply with bureaucratic regulations. You can contact Restaurant & Catering’s workplace relations team on 1300 722 878. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

newsextra

secretingredients Chef and restaurateur Jo Corrigan from Fitzroy’s The Commoner restaurant has been charming Melburnians with her flawless service and the comforting seasonality of the Modern British cooking menu for five years now. We pinned her down to delve into her career and find out her thoughts on the industry. Can you give us a brief history of your career so far? I started an apprenticeship as a chef with Butlers Restaurant in Sydney when I was 17. I went onto work at Bilsons, Fine Bouche, The Botanic Gardens and Ravesis before leaving Sydney at 26 to move to London. I worked at 192 in Kensington Park Road followed by the Groucho Club. I kept hearing about a small restaurant in Hammersmith that was supposed to be the best at sourcing and using the best of British produce The Brackenbury. There I started what would be the toughest and most rewarding three years I’ve ever spent in the kitchen. My boss there, Adam, helped me start my own business. I opened a deli in Chiswick with a friend and we ran it very happily for nearly five years. It was here I started to love having that connection with the dining public. I moved to Melbourne in 2002 and worked at Sarti as head chef before taking a job at The Victoria market in a small coffee roaster cooking whatever we found was best in the market that day. The seed for the Commoner was planted here... Is there someone in your career who stands out as a mentor? Adam Robinson, chef and owner of The Brackenbury stands out clearly as a mentor to me. He taught me strength and persistence and made it clear to all of us that study, truthful dedication and hard work would pay off for us all in the end. His connection with fresh produce and his determination to get the best of it and serve it to the dining public at very reasonable prices was why we all worked there. Though Adam was a very astute businessman he was also incredibly kind and invested in knowing his staff and encouraging them. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

It’s not generally a nostalgic movement although there are some efforts to re-introduce pre-twentieth century recipes. Ingredients not native to Great Britain, but which are seasonal, are frequently added to traditional dishes. And sharing food is also at the core of The Commoner experience.

The Commoner’s Rabbit, Prune and Pinot Pie reflects the restaurant’s Modern British food philosophy. Would you like chef Brook Petrie’s recipe? Head to hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Tell us a bit about The Commoner. I wanted to have a produce and customer driven restaurant that was affordable for people to visit regularly. I originally opened it Wednesday through to Sunday and we did breakfast for the first two years. We renovated the upstairs in the third year and the business model changed to Wednesday to Sunday for dinner and Friday to Sunday for lunch. Not doing breakfast seemed to cement the business style in a better way. Breakfast was an incredibly labour intensive, expensive service. It’s a much more viable model now than the one I started with. What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced in running your restaurant? In any restaurant there are a number of challenges. Some of mine include: Finances (a little under financing at the start); getting the food style out there as Modern British took a while; produce prices - we still pay a lot of money to have access to the best ingredients we can find for our customers but the price of a main course in the industry tends to remain stable. Maintaining consistency in staffing levels and training..

Keeping the environment consistently interesting and fresh for both employees and customers. What’s the secret to finding good staff – and keeping them? ]Employ carefully and responsibly. Those staff that are respectful of hospitality as a career stand out clearly if you develop a good induction procedure and follow it. Be open and honest with the employees regarding how the business is run and communicate with them regularly about how they feel about their environment. Offer training and incentives to encourage the staff to connect with the product and therefore the customer. Can you give us a description of the style of food you’re doing? Modern British (or New British) cuisine is a style of British cooking which fully emerged in the late 1970’s, and really peaked during the early nineties. I was very lucky to find myself cooking in London during this period. This style celebrates the use of high quality local ingredients, preparing them in ways which combine traditional British recipes with modern innovations.

What are the most popular dishes on your menu? They would have to include the Charcuterie Board, the Black Pudding and the Brown Ale Pudding. The charcuterie is all made in house by Brook Petrie, our head chef. Last night it consisted of pheasant terrine, duck liver parfait with Chateau Jolys jelly, bresaola, house hung jamon, rabbit salami and relishes. Our black pudding is the best I’ve tasted. Apart from your own, what’s your favourite restaurant? My favourite places to eat in Melbourne would be Cumulus inc and Merricote. I can’t pick a favourite dish. Everything I have had there has been utterly delicious and both have really interesting wine lists. The staff are also a highlight. What do you think are the most important trends ahead? Restaurants will have to be careful to remain responsible at a time when costs are rising and diners are fewer. Where the owner may try to make those extra dollars will be telling. Good old fashioned hospitality where the focus is on the customer is back and I’m very glad to see it. Diners these days are interested. They are focused and well travelled. People are careful to spend their money where they perceive the best value to be. See the full version of Jo’s Q&A online at hospitalitymagazine.com.au hospitality | april 2012

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Katrina Kanetani and husband Karl at their restaurant in Bangalow. Left: The town of Bangalow.

Desserts by Kanetani as they were presented at Pier. Food images from Pier by Greg Doyle Katrina Kanetani & Grant King, published by Murdoch Books.

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hospitalitychef

Regional homecoming for Australian dessert queen Acclaimed chef Katrina Kanetani stunned diners at Sydney’s Pier for five years but has returned to her regional home to set up her own restaurant with her husband Karl. By Danielle Bowling.

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f your career as a chef was defined by the number of ‘big names’ you’ve worked with, then Katrina Kanetani must be at the top of the game. Growing up with piles of cookbooks by her bed, Kanetani always wanted to be a chef and kick-started her career with an apprenticeship at The Rox restaurant in Byron Bay in northern New South Wales. She then “hit the big smoke” in Sydney, eager to work with some of the high profile chefs she’d idolised over as a child while pouring over the latest issue of Gourmet Traveller. She succeeded, working with Stefano Manfredi at Restaurant Manfredi then Peter Doyle at Cicada. “After that I went to London and worked in some great places over there, and I have to say I never looked back,” Kanetani says. “A lot of Aussies go over there to work in pubs but I went hard core and worked in some great places.” Starting off at the largest restaurant in Europe at the time, Mezzo, she then added Gordon Ramsay’s L’Oranger, Marco Pierre White’s Quo Vidas and Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons to her resume, among others, and by the time she returned to Australia she had well and truly fallen in love with pastry. Janni Kyritsis was another big influence, teaching Kanetani how to make the most perfect, light, crispy pastry during her time at MG Garage. And it was here that she met her Hawaiian husband Karl, also a respected chef. After a few more years of travel and impressive cooking stints, including about five years as pastry chef at Sydney’s Pier with Greg Doyle, the pair has finally settled down, with Kanetani returning, full circle, to the Byron Bay area at the helm of their venture Town café and restaurant in the village of Bangalow. Town is the new name for the venue in Bangalow, which is split into two separate sections, a café – Downtown, downstairs and the Uptown restaurant, upstairs. “My husband and I always worked towards owning our own place,” Kanetani says. “We wanted to do that while we were in Hawaii but the economy

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Kanetani during her days at then three hat restaurant Pier.

Katrina’s picks wasn’t great over there. It’s a big learning curve here because it’s like a double business, with the restaurant and the café. So with both of us having fine dining restaurant backgrounds – Karl’s worked at Tetsuya’s, Quay, est. – the café’s quite a learning curve.” Kanetani makes the desserts for Uptown and the breads and pastries for both the restaurant and the café, while Karl focuses on dinner service upstairs. Both are learning the ropes of not just cooking for a restaurant, but operating it too. While she does miss city life from time to time, Kanetani says she loves that she’s able to take her extensive experience and creativity and breathe new life into an area which, compared to London or Sydney, could be called a little sleepy. “A lot of people ask us what the style of food is and we say Modern Bangalow,” she says. “We’re just doing our own thing, creating things that we want to create.” A big source of inspiration for the menu at Town is the region’s fresh, local produce, often brought to the door from farmers eager to please. “One really nice

FAVOURITE FOOD-RELATED BOOK? Chocolate Indulgence - a fascinating book about the history of chocolate and the global chocolate trail leading up to the modern chocolate industry of today. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Spice I Am is a favourite of ours...and Quay...and Sepia...there are far too many favourites to name them all. We love eating out. Also Cellar De Can Roca in Girona, Spain and Michelle Bras in the south of France. They were the restaurants of my dreams. FAVOURITE PLACE TO SHOP FOR FOOD AND INGREDIENTS? Currently at the Bangalow farmers’ market every Saturday morning. Everything is of such great quality and so, so fresh and full of flavour. I used to love the Asian supermarkets in Sydney’s Chinatown too. FAVOURITE MEAL EXPERIENCE? This is a hard question as I’ve been lucky to have so many great meal experiences. These were two standouts. Alain Ducasse – ADNY – Essex House, New York. An amazing, opulent, unforgettable, superb dining experience and Cellar De Can Roca, Girona, Spain, with Greg Doyle, Grant King and my husband Karl on our amazing foodie trip to Spain. Also, I’ve never been able to get the banana pancakes (dripping with condensed milk) I had in Chiang Mai, Thailand from a hawker stand, out of my head. Yum - so good!

hospitality | april 2012

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hospitalitychef

Kanetani’s Sumac Strawberries and cream, white chocolate sponge and plum wine jelly. For the full recipe head online to hospitalitymagazine.com.au.

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hospitality | april 2012

thing is the farmers’ markets and the farmers,â€? says Kanetani. “We get lots of produce dropped in, people saying ‘Hey try this’ or ‘try that’ – stuff that you’d never get in the city so that’s really nice. Lately I’ve been using lots of native fruits that grow in the area, like Davidson plums. I made Davidson plum jam and used it in a tart‌and I’ve been using a lot of finger limes too. One lady brought me a load of different spices and ingredients the other day.â€? It’s the produce Kanetani has at her fingertips that inspires her menus, and her mind is constantly ticking over with new recipes and sweet creations. “Because it’s a rainforest area up here, the next dessert I’m going to try and put on the restaurant upstairs is going to be called Rainforest,â€? she says. “I’m thinking I might make

a green sponge cake and call it moss and make a wattleseed soil using the native produce. The lady brought us some little bush tomatoes and quandongs and all sorts of things the other day. “I’ve had a dessert on that was really popular. It was a lemon and mandarin meringue and it was sort of a take on a lemon tart, but using all citrus so I did a mandarin meringue, and it had lemon curd piped into a little cigar, and it had an almond crumble and ruby finger lime scattered all over the plate. That was a big hit. “I do a Roquefort cheesecake as a pre-dessert, so it’s a blue cheese cheesecake with a celeriac or walnut salad, and another one of Karl’s is pan-seared scallops with cauliflower puree, buckwheat and mustard seed.� Having been open for ten months, and working seven

days a week for the past seven of them, the couple have only just started taking a day off every week to enjoy the fact that their hard work is paying off. Kanetani says the cafĂŠ is pumping and the restaurant doing well too, considering that the pair, who are the only two in the kitchen of an evening, purposely keep numbers for Uptown’s degustation dinner under control. But it’s the cafĂŠ scene that’s new to Kanetani. “After years of being a night chef, waking up really early to open the cafĂŠ at 7.30am is one thing I find quite hard,â€? she says. “But now I feel like I’m covering the whole pastry stage. I make my own bread upstairs so it’s not just desserts anymore for me, it’s all the other stuff for the cafĂŠ as well. I always wanted to be a dessert chef, and that’s what I’m doing now,â€? she says. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

imbibe

Determined Aussie Riesling makers surprise and thrive Riesling traditionally thrives in cool climates. But there are exceptions to the rule, writes Christine Salins. EOPLE say ‘why do you make Riesling?’ and I say ‘why wouldn’t I?’” says Steven Raidis, owner of one of Coonawarra’s newest wine labels, Raidis Estate. “The best Riesling in the world is made in Germany and it has a similar climate to Coonawarra.” That’s a broad sweep but still you can’t help admiring the enthusiasm of Steven and his partner Emma Graney, who made their first wine in 2006 and opened their cellar door in 2009. In a region where red wine, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, reigns supreme, they are unusual in having plantings of Riesling, a variety that winemakers and aficionados love but which consumers have not embraced with the same enthusiasm. Still, Raidis Estate’s The Kid Riesling has proved a winner for the duo, who say that people have fallen in love with its delicate aromas and subtle floral and spicy notes. Riesling traditionally thrives in coolclimate regions, with South Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys renowned for producing Australia’s finest examples. In recent years, other cool-climate regions, including Canberra, have shared some of the spotlight. But as with most things in life, there are exceptions to the rule, and some surprisingly attractive examples of Riesling are being produced by winemakers who have found suitable micro-climates or simply shown dogged persistence. Woodstock’s Bernice Ong says McLaren Vale Riesling can be a hard sell but they are more than delighted with their Mary McTaggart Riesling, named in honour of winery owner Scott Collett’s mother. “It’s always a little tricky with a Riesling from McLaren Vale but the wine’s fantastic and it’s just ticking along nicely for us,” Bernice said. “Our Riesling vineyard was planted in the early 70s on an elevated north facing slope in Blewitt Springs. Scott took out a bottle of 2002 recently and it was youthful, intense and every bit delicious.” Woodstock launched its Mary McTaggart Riesling onto the on-premise market in 2010 and is now selling the 2011 vintage. Scott Collett’s mother, Mary McTaggart, grew up on a sheep station

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in outback SA and after a day mustering sheep would enjoy a glass of Riesling, sometimes with ice or soda. After she died in 2009, Collett thought it appropriate to name his Riesling in her honour, and what better tribute than a delicate wine with such lovely flavours and gentle acidity. Another elegant McLaren Vale wine is the Richard Hamilton Slate Quarry Riesling, a zesty, vibrant wine made from vines that are more than 30 years old. The vineyard is on a south-facing slope that creates a cooler microclimate, producing intensely flavoured grapes with good varietal definition. They are harvested in the cool of the night, gently pressed and fermented with a yeast strain that is chosen for the way it enhances the floral nature of the fruit. Like McLaren Vale, Mudgee is usually thought of as one of Australia’s warmer regions but Lowe Wines winemaker David Lowe has found a special spot that produces a very stylish Riesling. His Louee Riesling is sourced from the Mudgee GI’s highest vineyard at Nullo Mountain, near Rylstone. At an elevation of 1100 metres, its high sunshine hours and ultra-violet light increase the phenolics that build flavour and mouth feel. “What we can therefore achieve with this vineyard is lovely flavour and ripeness at lower baumé and subsequently lower al-

Riesling tribute: Woodstock’s Scott Collett.

cohol levels,” said Lowe. One of the great things about Riesling is how gracefully it ages and those from the Louee vineyard are showing exceptional longevity. “Our older vintages, such as the 2003 Riesling, are drinking really well, showing how the natural, cool climate acidity maintains the wine structure over time,” Lowe said. Fellow Mudgee producer, Robert Stein Wines, also has Riesling vines, though for historical purposes as much as anything. The pedigree of these vines is remarkable, for they are believed to have originated with cuttings brought to Australia and planted at Macarthur’s Camden vineyards in 1838. Cuttings were taken from these and subsequently planted in the Clare Valley, from where Stein sourced them in the 1980s. In an interesting twist, Andrew Stein visited the Steingarten vineyard in Germany in 2004, and the family now sells wine to Germany. Hilltops vigneron Jason Brown is excited about the Riesling he is producing at his Moppity Vineyards, near Young in southern NSW. Elevation, he says, is the key. “The vines were planted in 1973 on the highest altitude site in the region, at 600 metres,” Brown says. “They are producing grapes with great natural acidity and fruit purity.” Continued on page 34 hospitality | april 2012

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How important is

your barista? Campos barista Jake Knight at work.

On the one hand Australians demand for a well made coffee continues to grow but on the other business operators are looking for any way to cut their costs. It raises the question, how necessary are skilled baristas? By Danielle Bowling.

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here’s no denying that people are fussy about their coffee. If they’re going to shell out anything from $3 to $5 for their daily hit, they want it to be good, and if it’s not there are plenty of other venues fighting for that much sought after coffee dollar. Making a great coffee is about so much more than the beans and the milk. Today the person behind the machine is coming close ot being respected as much as a chef or maitre d’. And even with technology developing and a number of new and very impressive automated coffee machines available to the foodservice market, a good barista can make a huge difference on your daily trade.

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Marius Beullens, sales manager at Global Coffee Solutions, which distributes coffee and coffee machines to a range of venues including clubs, pubs, restaurants and fast food outlets, says every coffee machine has its place in foodservice. “We’ve got traditional machines and we’ve got fully automatic machines as well as vending machines,” Beullens says. “Licensed venues, for example, might have a traditional machine in their cafe area, a fully automatic in another part of the venue and then vending machines are usually used for free coffee in pokie areas.” “The top end automatics can make a really good coffee, obviously the presentation coming out of a machine is not as good as if it has been made by a

‘A really good barista will be up in the high $20s and a competition barista...will be nudging $30 or $30-plus an hour.’

barista, but the quality of the milk and the consistency is pretty good. The automatics have definitely come a long way in the past five to ten years.” Himself a trained barista, Beullens says the job title has become too mainstream today, with few people realising what the job description actually involves. “There are too many people who call themselves baristas, that aren’t. Being a barista means having a personality, being able to multi-task, being able to handle pressure, having a good memory, remembering people’s names, their orders and making a good cup of coffee.” With good quality coffee in such high demand, baristas need to be paid well, says Beullens, because like unhappy hospitality | april 2012

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coffee

consumers, if they don’t feel they’re getting what they deserve there are plenty of other places offering the same thing. “Like with most industries, I think you get what you pay for. If you want to pay a barista $18 to $20 an hour you’re going to get an okay barista but not a great barista. A really good barista will be up in the high $20s and a competition barista, someone that has a bit of a name and credibility will be nudging $30 or $30-

plus an hour. That’s pretty standard.” Will Young, founder of Campos Coffee, agrees and with the business grinding about 35 kilos of coffee a day, he’s willing to pay for the expertise. “They work really hard. They deserve it,” Young says. “When we first started out in 2002 the average wage for a barista was about $10 an hour and now it’s at least double that, which is great. I’ll give them whatever they want.”

At Sydney’s Campos in Newtown, Young has at least three baristas on every day and says the cost of their employment is money well spent considering his whole business hinges on consistent, top quality coffee. “If you sell an extra four or five coffees an hour you’re taking care of your loss and you’ve got a great product all the time,” he says. First on the list of job criteria when Campos is looking for new baristas is that they are flexible with the coffee they’ll work with and the methods they use, and won’t turn their noses up at consumer requests. Recent media stories about baristas refusing to add sugar or serve overlycustomised coffees infuriates Young. “They should all go get jobs making orange juice or something. They should grow up,” he says. “People buy coffee and drink espresso coffee and enjoy the fact that they can ask for things like that. It’s no skin off our back to make it differently, it’s easy, you just push a button here or a button there instead of a button there. “To put sugar in you just take a spoon and dip it into the sugar and you put it in the cup and you might have to stir it three or four times. You’ve got to come to terms with the fact that people have

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coffee

sugar in their drinks.” In Melbourne, coffee house St Ali has a cult-like following, pushing out about 800 coffees on a week day and 1,200 on Saturdays and Sundays. Manager Joanne Spain is pedantic about the baristas she hires, and says they must be at the top of their game, prepared to put 100 per cent into every cup - but quickly. “What our baristas do is weigh every shot that they cook,” says Spain. “So they take the group handle, fill it with coffee, grind the coffee, tamp it into the group handle then weigh that dose. So they work down to the most minute detail. That’s the only kind of barista that we’d have working for us. If you’re not a barista in terms of being trained as a barista, then we would suggest you really couldn’t make a good coffee.” St Ali has anywhere between three to five baristas on at one time as well as a director of coffee - or head barista who pops in periodically when he’s not working on product development. Spain agrees with Beullens that there’s a time and a place for automated coffee machines, but says that place is not in cafes where baristas thrive on serving the caffeine-craving crowds all day, every day. “The machines that we use are more manual,” says Spain. “What we do is

‘They should grow up, People drink espresso coffee and enjoy the fact they can ask for things like that.’

rely on the skills of the coffee maker and celebrate their role. The more automated the machine the less imoprtant the skills of the barista are but because we attract a lot of guys who want to demonstrate their skills, we’ve got to keep them entertained as well, and we’ve got to let them demonstrate their skills.” Not only do consumers expect their coffee to be exactly as ordered, served

up promptly, but they also want it with a smile, and owner at Surry Hills’ Fouratefive, Jessica York, says this is an absolute must in her cafe. York says paper qualifications mean nothing, and believes a good barista learns everything they need on the job. “I’ve done a coffee course and I learnt more just working in a cafe than from that course,” she says. “I think most baristas don’t do courses but they just have the years of experience and are passionate about coffee.” Surry Hills is an enormously crowded coffee scene, and first impressions count for a lot, so the value of a trained, professional, friendly barista can never be underestimated, York says. “If someone came in and we had a new inexperienced person make their coffee and it wasn’t good they’d never come back,” she says. “It’s not worth the risk. And also, our coffee machine is right at the front of our cafe and I like someone that is able to make coffee, greet people and continue making great coffee while having a conversation. “All our baristas will be in the middle of making six different coffees and will be taking orders and greeting people at the door and the quality of the coffee stays.”

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21

Cosy up

The great outdoors: Heatstrip from Thermofilm.

without costs soaring As winter chills creep up on us, hospitality operators face the challenge of how to retain the appeal of their valuable outdoor areas for customers while also controlling costs. By Rosemary Ryan.

A

s the temperatures fall the outdoor area of restaurants, cafes and hotels around Australia start to look a bit less tempting to patrons, and operators face the potential loss of valuable seating space - unless they can make sure the areas stay warm, cosy and appealing. But with hospitality businesses already under pressure from the rising costs of energy with more rises expected this year, smart operators will be eyeing their plans for how they will heat their outdoor areas with caution and looking for the most efficient heating options. They should also be thinking about how to manage the

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operation of the heating system over the cooler months of the year. Ben Pearson, from business sustainability consultancy Avana, which specialises in advising hospitality businesses about how to manage their operations in the most energy efficient way says the impact on a business’s profitability that a long cold winter can have depends on the year, and the location and style of business. But Pearson says choosing the most energy efficient heating and then being vigilant about how you manage it can reap thousands of dollars in savings. “For example the cost of running a patio heater - which is your mushroom style of heater - is around $3.50 an hour and if you

have ten or so of those running then it can get very expensive,” he says. “Radiant gas powered panel heaters in comparison are typically about 83 cents an hour.” Electric radiant heaters are often a good alternative to gas because of their greater energy efficiency, says Pearson. Some of the leading electric radiant heaters on the market report running costs starting at 30 cents per hour. A case study of a Sydney restaurant conducted as part of Avana’s Green Chef program revealed that the business’s energy costs in the winter months increased more than 100 per cent. To maintain the same profitability levels it meant it would have to be doing an

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

outdoorheating R A D I A N T

additional 1500 covers - at a time when business traditionally slows. “It shows how important it is for operators to be very aware of their heating and to look at any way they can reduce the costs, first in the kind of heating they are selecting and then how they run it,” Pearson says. “Things like making sure heaters aren’t being used to heat tables where there are no people, and that tables are positioned within the area covered by a heater, to trying to incorporate windbreaks into the outdoor space’s design.” Pearson says he’s been hearing of an emerging trend for restaurants to offer lap blankets to customers to ward off the beginning of the seasonal chill. “I’m not sure if that’s going to take off, but if it’s

from a single panel,andmake it Heatstrip easier for Good looks warmth: busy managers to make the of their frommost Thermofilm. heating, and control costs. “Outdoor electric heaters can easily be left on by mistake - a lot of our products have no noise and emit very little light - so people can even forget they’re on,” he says. “Having a control system with a timer will prevent that. It’s effective too for if you have a restaurant or cafe that has a particular session, say dinner that might be three or four hours. You can set them to automatically turn off. “And think about things like having your venue divided into zones. Rather than heating a whole area you might have three or four different outdoor zones and as you fill up tables you can strategically

O U T D O O R

H E A T E R S

Outdoor heating just got hotter

Making the most of outdoor areas: the Infratech Slimline range.

framed in terms of, ‘We are trying to be environmentally conscious, here’s a lap blanket for your comfort but please let us know if you are still cold and we’ll turn on the heat’, it could be part of a businesses’ approach to outdoor heating.” Outdoor heating expert Greg Trezise from Australian heating specialist Thermofilm Australia - which has just released its latest most energy efficient heater designed especially for the hospitality industry, the Heatstrip Max - says he’s working hard to educate hospitality business operators about the importance of being smart about how their outdoor heating systems are configured, and then managed. “We are looking a lot more at the control side of things - that’s where you can get some really good efficiencies,” Trezise says. “That’s about investing in control systems that mean you are only operating the heaters when you absolutely need to and at the levels you need to.” Trezise says smart outdoor heating systems fitted with timers, and that allow operators to customise outdoor heating

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

turn heaters on. If you have only four or five of our cafe’s tables occupied there’s not much point having all the heating system going and obviously using that extra energy if there’s no one sitting at the tables. If you don’t need the units on then certainly don’t operate them - reduce your consumption as much as you can.” Being able to control the output of the heaters according to the need is also important, says Trezise. “Things like being able to have different temperature settings depending on the ambient temperature is important so you don’t have to be using full power if you just need to take the chill off to make customers comfortable.” Trezise says he’s seeing a greater awareness of energy efficiency amongst hospitality operators but says that possibily more than other industries it has to find a balance when introducing ways to reduce heating costs. “At the end of the day they are running a business which is about making sure their customers are happy and comfortable and enjoying themselves,” he says.

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hospitality | april 2012

23

The brigade at work in the very functional Stokehouse Brisbane kitchen.

Kitchen innovators The lastest kitchen appliances available are helping chefs throughout the hospitality industry increase the productivity and creativity of their kitchens. By Rosemary Ryan round 30 years ago it was the combi oven that was beginning a revolution in commercial kitchens, bringing with it not just a you beaut new toy for chefs to play with but a tool that could help increase productivity. Now a staple heart of most working kitchens it delivered benefits from boosting efficiency, and saving on labour costs to reducing wastage. Today commercial kitchens are continuing to evolve with a range of hi tech equipment that may have started off as novelties but is now forming the basis of a modern chef’s kit. Others once regarded as the gimmicky gizmos of showy molecular gastronomic chefs are being used in practical ways to make the most of produce and give chefs an edge. Tony Kelly, head chef at the shiny new Brisbane outpost of the Van Haandel Group’s Stokehouse restaurant, said the range of equipment and appliances included when setting up the large and very busy kitchen are paying for themselves quickly in the value they deliver. “We’re doing nearly 2000 covers a week, we are serving a lot of people,” says Kelly. “And when you are doing that many you need to have a very efficient kitchen with the

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tools to help you do that. The kitchen is the thing that makes the restaurant money – and a big part of that is how efficiently the equipment works.” Kelly says that apart from the Rational combi ovens that are the backbone of the kitchen the cooking equipment being most utilised are the three Polyscience sous vide machines with their ability to deliver a precise and fool proof cooking method. “They are basically on when we arrive and they stay on until we leave and they cop a big workout,” says Kelly. “We have one particular lamb dish that’s been on the menu since we started. We marinate lamb in extra virgin olive oil and fenugreek and cryovac it and sous vide it at 62C for 32 minutes then we blast chill it down and cook it from that. It’s so precise, you can’t mess it up. “We are doing things like pigs tails – doing them sous vide for 24 hours and then basically you just pull the pigs tail off the bones and we press it over night and then cut it to shape and then roast it to make the most amazing crackling.” The Pacojet is one of the indispensable items as well, says Kelly. “We make all our sorbets and ice creams to order so we’re doing things like a goat’s cheese

‘At this end everyone is doing great food but being able to do things like this is the difference between doing being good and being great.’

sorbet for a tomato terrine dish with breaded white anchovies, or a beautiful biodynamic yoghurt sorbet to go with a little cucumber salad for a starter,” he says. “When you have the ability to quenelle sorbet or ice cream that’s the texure of freshly churned ice cream, well, it really makes a good dish great. “I think that is really the edge that a lot of restaurants, especially at the pointy end of the business, are chasing. At this end everyone is doing great food but being able to do things like this is the difference between being good and being great which is really what you are chasing all the time.” Kelly also names his new generation soup kettles as amongst the cooking appliances delivering efficiencies - and cost savings. “We have a 160 litre soup kettle here which we do all our stocks and jus in,” he says. “It can basically bring nearly 200 litres of cold water to the boil within five minutes. “One of the biggest costs in restaurants you’ll ever have is the labour component so if you can shave ten minutes off every job just because you’ve invested wisely in a piece of equipment then you know over a year that could be the difference hospitalitymagazine.com.au

kitchenappliances

Innovator: Quay’s Peter Gilmore.

between break even and having some money.” Chef Peter Gilmore from three hat Sydney restaurant Quay says there is an evolution happening in kitchens as chefs from all levels of the industry take equipment that was pioneered by chefs classified as molecular gastronomists and put them to practical use to enhance produce and to streamline their kitchens. But he warns that technology should be used judiciously. “I think the trap with some things is to use technology for effect rather than substance,” he says. “You need to ask, is it an intrinsic part of the dish, is it going to enhance the dish?” Gilmore says he uses water circulator baths extensively and finds them invaluable because of the precision they deliver. “The big thing to have hit kitchens in the last ten years has been the water circulator baths,” he says. “To be able to have that exact temperature control when you’re cooking is amazing. “I think now it’s just being seen as one of the many cooking techniques that you have available to you – it’s not anything out of the ordinary. It’s just another element but hospitalitymagazine.com.au

it’s a very nice method to use because it gives you such good control. But you don’t want to do everything using that same technique – it could become very boring.” Gilmore says he doesn’t necessarily use the water circulators to cook “in the bag”. “I actually don’t directly sous vide a lot of meats but I’ll use the immersion circulator as a way of controlling liquid so I’ll put clarified butter or a really rich reduced stock in a bain marie and then immerse that container in an immersion circulator and then I’ll poach meat directly into that liquid. If I want 65C it’s going to remain at 65C all night and you know your piece of meat is being poached at exactly the right temperature.“ Amongst the more unusual items in Gilmore’s arsenal is the Rotaval, an appliance that looks to be straight out of a science lab but which offers some valuable benefits. It can be used to distill the essence from foods and deliver incredible flavours. “At the moment I’m using it for a new partridge dish,” says Gilmore. “I’ve got a beautiful wine called Vin Jaune which is traditionally in France used to make a classic hospitality | april 2012

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kitchenappliances

sauce to go with poultry. I take the Vin Jaune and reduce it right down over high heat, and because the Rotaval works under vacuum it allows you to retain all the beautiful subtle nuances of flavour. Then we add that to a partridge glaze and create a little sauce that we brush onto the roast breast.” Another of the more obscure appliances starting to be taken up by more chefs is the anti griddle, the appliance that allows chefs to snap freeze the outside of an item. Using one as part of his repertoire is Canberra chef Derek Brown who runs the kitchen at Soju Girl. “I’m still experimenting with it,” Brown says. “But we’re starting to do dessert oriented things – we’ve done things like make a really strong raspberry stock and emulsify that with vanilla marshmallows then put it into a gas gun and pipe it onto the anti griddle. Then we serve it with some freeze dried raspberries on top. It does allow you to do some really surprising things.” An early adopter of the Pacojet – Brown bought his more than five years ago – the chef counts it among his most useful items. And he says it’s at its ultimate when combined with a Thermomix. Smoking food is one of the big trends at the moment in Australian foodservice with technology making the age old

method easier for chefs to incorporate. Brown is using a Polyscience smoke gun to impart a subtle smoke flavour to everything from wombok for an Asian slaw to accompany some miso and pineapple marinated pork loin, to butter to add to pomme puree or to use in pastry. And when Hospitality spoke to Gilmore he was counting down the weeks before he received his new Kold Smoker, a bench top appliance that is essentially a fridge that you pump smoke into. “It’s a way of smoking food in a very controlled manner,” says Gilmore. “For example if you wanted to smoke some sea scallops you can keep them at a really nice cold temperature, say 3C.” Being able to house smoke food easily also has Sofitel Brisbane executive sous chef Jean Marc Ruzzene listing his new Alto Shaam combi steamer with a smoking attachment as one of his most loved pieces of equpment across the kitchen operations of the hotel where he has over the past 18 months been overseeing an upgrade of kitchens to “bring it into the 21st century”. Ruzzene says that in his business plan to secure the funds for the upgrade he focused on how much money could be saved across areas from labour to food wastage by updating to some of the latest equipment on the market. “In banqueting

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‘We put it into a gas gun and pipe it onto the anti griddle. It does allow you to do some really surprising things.’

especially we can do so much more - we used to have 18 people plating up every time we had a big function but now we have five people. He says the combination of the latest generation of combi steamers and blast chillers has had the biggest impact on the efficiency, productivity and consistency of the kitchens but that other appliances have also become invaluable. “For consistency I think the water baths and sous vide machines are essential,” he says. “Really if you think about the idea of sous vide is something that has been a cooking method for a very long time but its only now I suppose being seen as just another option. Look at cooking en papillote is the same principle as sous vide – it’s about having less oxygen added to the product and making sure you have a slow process of heat.” He cites his Thermomixers and Pacojets too as two of the great time savers of the kitchen. “You can do everything [with the Pacojet] – chicken liver mousse, smoked salmon parfaits and of course beautiful ice creams and sorbets,” he says. “We have a pea puree on the menu and used to do it the traditional way, putting it through the chinois, etcetera. But the Thermomix just quickly breaks all of that down to exactly the consistency you want.”

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kitchenappliances

Kitchen helpers We round up some of the latest equipment and appliances helping chefs be both more efficient and productive in the kitchen as well as allowing them to be more creative. 1 Renova Moduline Regeneration Ovens A refrigerated cabinet that automatically turns into a regeneration oven, that’s the offering of the range of regeneration Renova ovens. Available in a range of sizes the range also includes a new smoking attachment that turns the oven into a hot and cold smoker. Contact: Scots Ice

2 Rational’s new Whitefficiency Rational has launched the latest evolution in the

category - its new SelfCooking Centre Whitefficiency. The new range combines greater efficiency and simplicity to minimise kitchen management resources such as time, labour and energy. The SelfCookingCenter Whitefficiency features up to 30 per cent greater load plus guaranteed food quality and 20 per cent reduction in consumption of resources. Contact: Comcater 3 Roner A The Roner A thermostat is a new development further simplifying the Roner Digital and offering a more affordable alternative for chefs wanting to incorporate sous vide cooking into their repertoire. Equipped with a stirring and circulation pump, the outer casing and all elements in contact with liquid are made in AISI 304 stainless steel. The Roner A creates a ‘bain marie’ with constant set temperature in the container up to a recommended 20 litres, and controls low temperature cooking, between 5C and 95C. Contact: Rely Services 4 New from Convotherm Moffat’s new range of user friendly Convotherm easyTouch combi steamers has a range of features

aimed at meeting the demands of today’s chefs. The system has been developed around a colour touch-screen, with an easy to use interface offering an unlimited number of cooking or baking programs that can be set. As well the oven’s Easy Eco cooking system delivers a 25 per cent saving in energy because of its heat retention technology. Contact: Moffat 5 Smoking with Alto-Shaam A versatile addition to commercial kitchens is the Alto-Shaam CombiTouch oven that also features a patented CombiSmoke hot and cold smoking technology. The manufacturers boast that the unit has such a good clean cycle that you can smoke ribs, set it to clean and then poach a delicate dessert, with no flavour transfer. Contact: Spyral

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kitchenappliances

6 Tom Cooper Kold Smoker The Tom Cooper Kold Smoker is a revolutionary machine that makes genuine cold smoking simpler and more accessible with this compact self contained unit. It features a stainless steel refrigerated chamber and separate temperature and time controlled smoker drawer that allows users to flavour perishable fools like seafood, poultry, meat and cheese safely without cooking the produce. Contact: Tom Cooper Kold Smoker

7 Energy saving Salvis Salamander The new Salvis Salamander has some extra clever features that will make it a valuable addition to a commercial kitchen. One of its functions includes innovative new technology allowing it to detect plates and switch off automatically when not in use, saving energy (up to a 70 per cent reduction) and reducing the amount of heat being emitted into the kitchen area. Contact: Phoeniks.

8 Polyscience anti-griddle The “Anti-Griddle� is a traditional cooktop with a twist - the device quickly freezes sauces and purees instead of heating them. It allows you to freeze sauces and purees solid or develop semifrozen creations with stable, crunchy surfaces and cool, creamy centre, all in a compact 30 centimetre unit. Contact: Rely Services 30

hospitality | april 2012

9 The Rotaval The Rotaval distils solids and liquids at low temperature enabling the purest aromas to be captured and the best essences obtained. Emerging into kitchens from chemical laboratories, it permits the distillation of any type of product, be it liquid or solid. Applications range from obtaining reductions where cooking and oxidation of the product is avoided, carrying out reflux cooking, and impregnating some solid products with liquids. Contact: Rely Services 10 HotmixPro Gastro The new HotmixPro Gastro thermal mixer is being positioned as an extra pair of hands in a commercial kitchen with its multi tasking ability to chop, blend, grate, blend, mix, mince, knead, heat and cook. The thermostatically controlled heatting system delivers previse temperature control from 25C to 190C. Contact: HotMIX Pro 11 Robot C o u p e Cuisine Kit A tough and reliable part c o m mercial kitchens for many years. R o b o t C o u p e have launched this new Cuisine Kit attachment or its food processors that has extended its use even further. With the new attachment you can prepare coulis and vegetable juice to make mise en bouche, soups, sorbets and ice cream, smoothies, jam, and fruit pastes. Contact: Robot Coupe hospitalitymagazine.com.au

management

The modern chef Times have changed and so has the skills required in a chef. Ken Burgin

The HMDA is the professional development arm of the Club Managers’ Association Australia (CMAA) serving management in the wider Hospitality Industry

gives his tips for ensuring you’re keeping up with what’s demanded.

IN THE old days, regardless of their culinary skills, the reputation of chefs was problematic. No please, no thank you, shouting orders, complaining, drinking and smoking in the kitchen. How times have changed. These days the profession has shot to prominence, thanks to our obsession with Masterchef and all its variations, which attract hundreds of thousands to the screen most nights. Today’s chefs generally have a strong focus on professional development. They are at the front of the line to be offered the best positions and a great salary – as an executive or head chef, an operations manager or even CEO. Their unique insight into kitchen operations gives them a considerable advantage in the management of any hospitality operation. However, career success generally doesn’t come without a lot of hard work, education, and business management acumen. Chefs need to be good at planning, ordering, cooking, time management and team leadership. And that’s just the start. According to one of Melbourne’s leading chefs Mark Normoyle, executive chef at Melbourne’s RACV City Club, training and ongoing learning across all areas of the business is paramount. Leading the second largest team of chefs in the city Normoyle has also worked in the world’s only seven star hotel, the ‘Burj Alarab’ and has been a special guest of the Iron Chefs in Japan. For those who want to learn more from this high achiever here’s a great opportunity. Normoyle will be a guest presenter at a special gathering for chefs in June, the Clubs + Chefs Two-Day Management Summit (see details below). In the meantime, here is a useful Chefs Checklist for 2012 to get everyone started today: Upgrade your computer skills. You’re familiar with technology (from iPods and laptops to digital thermometers) but what about Excel spreadsheets for costing recipes, checking menu profits and organising the stocktake? Learn to use modern equipment and manage large quantities. Combi-ovens, cryovac machines hospitalitymagazine.com.au

and large mixers all need special experience - get smart at using them. Learn how a business really works. Not just menu costing, but how food production fits into the total profit picture. Your results are critical in the big picture. Learn how to find the latest information. Books for sure, but also chef blogs and websites, discussion forums and webinars. Learn about menu marketing. The real skill is designing a menu that not only looks and tastes good, but also maximises profitability through design, layout and pricing. Develop your range of ‘healthy’ but tasty recipes. That’s food that doesn’t rely on huge amounts of sugar, fat and salt. There are lots of people searching for gluten-free, diabetic-friendly, lowsodium and low-fat food. Become a food safety expert. Food safety plans, HACCP and tighter OH&S rules are all part of the landscape in modern hospitality, so build up your skills with extra training. Be clever at training waiters. You know how it works: when front-of-house staff love the special, they sell it to everyone. The more you teach them, the more they’ll look after you. Their tips increase, the boss is happy because sales are up, and your pay rise will be easy to justify. Develop your people skills. When you’re in charge of a team, leadership abilities can make the difference between over-stressed or under control. Build your skills in team development, personality types and anger management. Negotiation, delegation and managing effective meetings are also important skills. Learn how to talk to the boss. Sometimes called ‘managing upwards’. Learn how to most effectively make your case with senior management when you need more equipment, staff changes, different work hours or even a raise. Understand how to manage and reduce utility costs. Implement energy and water saving measures to reduce costs in areas like kitchen equipment, equipment washing, use of chemicals, use of hot water, and ventilation. A practical ‘green’ approach can make a big difference to bottom line. For your diary: Clubs+ Chefs Two-Day Management Summit at Canterbury League Club, Sydney on June 5 and 6. All chefs and cooks are welcome. This will be a gathering of chefs from all over the country. Join special guest Mark Normoyle, and other industry experts, who will share their experiences and knowledge. Ken Burgin is a leading hospitality industry consultant. To find out more call 1800 001 353 or head online to profitablehospitality.com

‘I have benefited both personally and professionally in my career through education and training. HMDA offers all managers that same opportunity’ Ralph Kober Executive Officer

DID YOU KNOW?.... If you are a Chef, a F&B or Catering Manager, a Hotel Manager or a manager within a hospitality venue you are eligible to join Australia’s premier hospitality management association, the CMAA, & take advantage of a range of education opportunities, representation, and networking with similar professionals. Go to www.cmaa.asn.au to find out more.

MAY Wedding & Events Management Summit May 22-23 Online Marketing Competition 2012 May 22 (launch)

JUNE 2-Day Chefs Hands-On Workshop June 5-6

JULY Food & Beverage Workshop July 25 OR Webinar Series July 25 (start) - September 5

AUGUST ADVANCED Online Marketing Workshop August 8 OR Webinar Series August 8 (start) - September 27

SEPTEMBER Sales & Marketing Summit September 19-20 Go to www.cmaa.asn.au and click on the CMDA tile.

THE CMAA GROWS THE PEOPLE WHO GROW YOUR BUSINESS For further information: Ph: 02 97464199 E: training@cmaa.asn.au W: www.cmaa.asn.au

hospitality | april 2012

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doctorhospitality It’s time for new chairs. What do I need to consider for my beach-side café? Wooden chairs are an excellent choice, and will blend well with the surroundings. Prices vary widely, but practicality outweighs quality outdoors. Foldable or stackable chairs make storage easier, so you can secure them every night. Consider acquiring matching bar stools. Beaches are busy social networks; leave a few chairs or a bench outside and facing the beach, so potential patrons have the chance to sit and relax for a moment (hopefully realising they’re hungry). If you’re on a budget, plastic chairs for strictly outdoor purposes are acceptable, as the environment keeps those customers much happier than the décor will. We have a loyal staff member who’s been with us for seven years, but her wages are now well above equivalent workers elsewhere. How do I stop the increases without losing a good worker? Finding creative forms of compensation for long-term employees can be the difference between losing them and reinforcing their loyalty. An honest chat is essential: the pay rises need to slow right down, but you can communicate their value in other ways. Offer better shifts if she’s on the floor, or give her a steady schedule with a choice of days off if in the kitchen. Offer free or discount meals, and encourage input on daily operations. Focusing on low-cost and high-benefit options will make employees feel wanted and relevant. We trust our staff but the till rarely balances and we’re getting suspicious. How can we handle this without offending? Dishonest employees are sometimes difficult to spot - they’re clever. Take great care in handling the situation so as not to alienate your entire staff. Ideally, you should take more control of the finances yourself , or entrust just one person to do it for you. The fewer people involved, the better. Announce to staff that the books aren’t balancing and to please be careful. This is the first warning to a potential thief. If problems persist, claim till duty personally and look for flaws in the accounting system. Finally, train one person – preferable family or a trusted associate – to take over the bank, and watch who resigns. It’s time to repaint but we can’t afford to close for even one day. What do you suggest? Find a painting company ready to work odd hours and do rush jobs, and be ready to pay extra for overnight work. Offer your employees extra work at a reasonable non-professional rate if they will assist. Or can this be done on a public holiday if you are closed anyway. If you can close a few hours early to give everyone a head start on the job, that’s a big help. Turn up the music and keep the supply of pizza and coffee (not beer!) flowing. Next day, be ready for the compliments.

Do you have a burning question you’d like answered by the good doctor? Send it to him via Hospitality editor Rosemary Ryan at rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au

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Failing the fresh test The French foodservice industry is under criticism from inside, and our local eateries are guilty of similar sins, writes Tony Berry. ZUT ALORS! Sacre bleu! And any other expression of surprise considered appropriate when a Frenchman takes pot shots at the very foundations of his country’s life and culture - the food. Of course, the rest of the culinary world has long been aware that French cuisine isn’t what it once was. The principles set out by such luminaries as Escoffier and Larousse remain, but the end result is to a large extent over-hyped and over-revered. Many know this but few dare state it. The reverence that French cuisine once fully deserved has been allowed to remain long after the lustre faded. I recently caught a snippet from a Raymond Blanc TV series which reaches the level of farce with his endless fawning over the simplest of products and creations. He cuts a bread roll in half, pours in some olive oil (“it eez zee very best”), adds tomato (“ah zee aroma”), piles on some tapenade (“zee olives they come off zee trees right here”), layers on lettuce leaves (“zo fresh from zee garden”) and, voila, yes he has a sandwich. But the dialogue and posturing suggests he’s created a culinary marvel beyond anyone not born and bred in France. It’s a myth that’s been prolonged and encouraged by generations of chefs, restaurateurs and food writers afraid their world would crumble if they dared to speak the truth. Now, thankfully, one of their own has done the unthinkable. Parisian restaurateur Xavier Denamur (he owns five successful outlets in the city’s Marais district) has declared 70 per cent of his country’s restaurant food is mere “industrial fodder”. He alleges his country’s leading restaurants wear their Michelin stars like a fig leaf hiding poor quality, factory produced food falsely touted as “home made”. France, he says. is a country of restaurants without chefs and of farms and farmers yet no fresh food. Big food groups now control the country’s cuisine with restaurants increasingly reliant on tinned or frozen produce and serving uniform food produced externally. The solution, says Denamur is to have more precise identification of product sources and to introduce a two-tier labelling system stating whether food is home made or industrial. Much as it might come as a shock to realise French food is not all that it has long pretended to be, this is not a problem confined to the land of lardons and pommes frites. World-wide the amount of food that can truly be labelled as “fresh” or, even rarer, “home made” is infinitesimal. The two terms are more appropriate to a hawkers’ market in Bangkok than to a Michelin-starred joint on the Champs Elysees. “Fresh” is bandied around as if it is some super-excellent quality by which diners should be excessively dazzled and content to pay over the odds. Really? What else should they expect considering the only alternative to “fresh” is “stale”? One of my early kitchen experiences was responsibility for making “fresh” chocolate mousse for the hotel’s Sunday carvery. I used chocolate, eggs, cream and butter from the larder until eventually being confronted by management. They berated me and then showed me the tin of chocolate mousse powder to which I just had to add water and whisk. Sadly the product was still labelled “fresh”. So why is such an increasingly vocal fuss being made about correct labelling and use of truly fresh ingredients? Perhaps the answer can be found in the Victorian Government’s intriguing partnership with Jamie Oliver. Its main purpose is to stem the tide of obesity making a mockery of the image of the tall, lean Aussie by raising awareness about “healthy” eating. At the core of this will be an attempt to educate those who need it the most to understand food and how it is marketed and labelled. Allied to this will be an emphasis on economy – that dearest is not necessarily best; and that cheap (especially in cuts of meat) can be good. It is a simple message but one that flies in the face of everything the foodservice industry has become as it swamps small local producers, relies more and more on additives and preservatives, pays homage to shelf-life and depends on spin and marketing to cloak the reality of what it sells. With the health of the nation in such a parlous condition – and the soaring costs we all have to bear to treat and care for the sickness it creates – the industry needs to search its collective soul and seek ways to make campaigns such as Jamie’s become redundant. And that applies to all you restaurateurs, too – chef-hatted, Michelin-starred and cheap eats included. Fail to act and, as Mr Denamur would say, we’ll all be in the merde. For many years known to Hospitality readers by his nom de plume E S Scoffer, Tony Berry is a former editor of this magazine as well as a restaurant reviewer, chef and restaurateur. He’s also the world’s fourth fastest half-marathoner in his current age group. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

whatsnew

shelfspace 1

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1 Myth-debunking vodka arrives. Wódka, the Polish vodka attracting attention internationally with its premium quality, low price approach, is now available in Australia through national distributor Pure Beverages. One of the fastest growing vodkas in the US, Wódka positions itself as a bit of a rebel that foregoes “swanky packaging, aspirational marketing and high price points synonymous with luxury vodkas, choosing instead to trade purely on its credentials”. It rated 90 points at the Beverage Tasting Institute 2010. “There has been sweeping consumer recognition that price isn’t always indicative of quality,” says Ross Blainey, brands ambassador at Pure Beverages. “In Australia, the premium sector of the drinks market has not had an opportunity to reflect this shift, until now. “Wódka debunks the myth of high pricing plus fancy packaging and other extravagances equalling a top quality drop.” Find out more at purebeverages.com.au 2 Making food safety easier. Measurement data specialist Testo has launched a new generation of

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

data loggers into the market. This new series of data loggers have been developed to be more user friendly and to provide complete security for users. The Testo 175 series consists of four compact data loggers for the measurement of temperature and humidity. The Testo 176 series contains seven data loggers which are especially suited to applications in demanding surroundings. See testo.com.au 3 Never be caught short. The new Tork T6 Toilet Paper System solves one of life’s most embarrassing dilemmas for businesses and their customers - the cubicle with no paper. The smart looking system provides a continuous supply of toilet paper and is the only system that automatically switches rolls when one is finished. Every roll is completely consumed so there’s no waste and empty cores remain in the dispenser stopping mess on the floor. Tork T6 is a compact system that’s best suited to low to medium traffic washrooms. It holds the equivalent of 4.5 standard rolls thus extending time between refills. The system also eliminates the problem

of mess, and also the possibility of toilet blockages that research has found are often caused by toilet rolls and packaging. Find out more at tork.com.au/T6 4 Cooking wine range expands. Elegre has become known in the Australian foodservice industry as an innovative company with its range of quality red and white cooking wine products that help foodservice operators keep costs down. It’s now unveiled some highly anticipated additions for chefs to incorporate into their menus - its Cooking Tawny Fort (port) and Cooking Apera (sherry). Like the other products in the Elegre range the wines are GST and Wet tax free because they are classed as a condiment as it is not a drinking wine. Find our more about the products at elegre.com.au 5 Buffet for today. You can add a contemporary look to buffets with the new Mod Pod Modular Buffet System. It uses interchangeable trays providing unlimited options in creating an appealing buffet for serving food and drinks includ-

ing morning pastries, continental breakfast with fruit salad, yogurt and baked goods, as well as candies and treats for afternoon snacks. A small pod stand and cover goes with the Mod.Pod small bowl tray and small square tray and is perfect for condiments and other small items, while the larger acrylic stand and lid for the Mod.Pod System is perfect for larger food and drink items. Head to topshelfconcepts.com.au to find out more. 6 Ingham chicken convenience. Inghams Foodservice is well known for its selection of chicken products from finger food to roasted chicken meat that comes ready to use in convenient resealable packaging. All the products are designed for maximum convenience and minimum preparation time and labour to make it easier and more cost-effective for businesses to serve 100 per cent Australian chicken. One example is Inghams Sweet Chilli Tenders. The product has a sweet chilli flavoured coating and comes in portions individually quick frozen in one kilogram bags. Get details at inghams.com.au

hospitality | april 2012

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what’s on

hospitalitydiary foodserviceaustralia.com.au

MAY 27-29 Foodservice Australia; Royal Hall of Industries, Sydney. Don’t miss out on this major trade event for the hospitality industry. Along with exhibitors there’s a full seminar progam, the running of CHEF 2012 and the world finals of the Global Pizza Challenge. Head to

AUGUST JULY 4-6 CMAA Mid Year Conference; Jupiters Casino, Gold Coast. This three day conference by the Club Managers Association Australia is themed “2020 Vision - Strategic Workforce Management”. See cmaa.asn.au

Determined Aussie Riesling Makers Continued from page 17 Brown says Hilltops Riesling is not new, despite the word only just starting to get out. “In the early ‘80s, Wagga’s then Riverina College of Advanced Education was pioneering it,” he says. Len Evans described some of these early Rieslings: “The grapes mature in early April and allow an excellent delicate Riesling to be made, showing remarkable flavour and intensity.” Brown says that with the vines having matured since then, the wines are even better now. Moppity produces an Estate Riesling with vibrant floral and citrus notes and a crisp, zingy finish. It also makes the less expensive Lock & Key Riesling, which has collected a number of gold medals and a trophy. It shouldn’t come as a a surprise that the Hilltops can produce great Riesling, as Brown says

6-7 Lunch!; Royal Hall of Industries. Sydney. A new trade event for Australia aimed at the lunchtime food-to-go market. Find out more at divexhibitions.com.au 27-28 Speciality Food & Drink Fair; Sydney Convention Centre. This

the climate is similar to the Clare Valley. Riesling is not on many Rutherglen cellar door lists but Pfeiffer Wines draws on fruit from the neighbouring (and cooler) Strathbogie Ranges and King Valley to make its Pfeiffer Riesling. Winemaker Jen Pfeiffer says the wine is harvested over three picks, when the sugar levels are between 9.5 and 12 baumé, to get the balance right. With the Strathbogie component of the blend providing floral and mineral characters and the King Valley fruit providing citrus characters, it’s a lovely match for seafood. In December, Frankland Estate released three 2011 Rieslings, each from a different vineyard in Western Australia’s Great Southern region, offering different insights into the region’s excellent 2011 vintage. While each has its own special character, the common thread running through the Isolation Ridge, Poison Hill and Netley Road wines are their vibrancy of fruit and their refreshing, mineral acidity.

new industry trade event will showcase artisan food and drinks. See specialityfoodanddrinkfair.com.au

SEPTEMBER 10-13 Fine Food Australia; Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. Australia’s largest hospitality trade event is on again. See finefoodaustralia.com.au

Frankland Estate hosted an International Riesling tasting in Sydney in February, hot on the heels of a Summer of Riesling promotion that has spread to Australian shores inspired by a similar movement in the United States. Another Frankland River producer, Ferngrove, relies on some fairly particular vineyard management to achieve the freshness and acidity it desires for its Cossack Riesling. On the vineyard’s warmer west side, exposed grapes are removed before harvest so that only those that are sufficiently protected by the canopy remain on the vine. The grapes are then harvested early in the morning and pressed ever so gently. Across the Tasman, many Marlborough producers make attractive Rieslings, even though they are largely overshadowed by the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc. Ask most winemakers (on this side of the Tasman at least) and they’ll tell you what they’d rather be drinking.

P R O D U C T S 34

hospitality | april 2012

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