No.674 July 2011
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
foodservice
PUB CHEF Why Paul Wilson is spending a lot of time in local watering holes
Tea on a high
■
accommodation
■
beverage
■
management
Crank up the volume Success is in the detail with event catering
Austrians flex muscles Austrian wines build local presence
Aussie appetites grow for afternoon delight
Print Post Approved PP349181/00109
Look at the
Birdy 7
chefs’ winter ideas for chicken, duck and quail
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PUBLISHER Michelle Graves michelle.graves@reedbusiness.com.au EDITOR
Editor’s Note
Rosemary Ryan Ph: (02) 9422 2880 rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au JOURNALIST Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 9422 2667 danielle.bowling@reedbusiness.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Christine Salins Ken Burgin Tony Berry ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 9422 2481 Fax: (02) 9422 2863 rhonnie.merry@reedbusiness.com.au MARKETING Kevin Kasih
handful of my memorable foodservice experiences so far this year. After all it is, as I sit here, only three days until the end of the financial year so an opportune time to review the year so far. Right? Hmmm, well just on the weekend there was the oh so tender grilled calamari with a perfect ragu of white beans, with crispy slivers of pancetta from the kitchen of Guy Parkinson at newly opened La Vespa restaurant in Charlestown on Newcastle’s southern beaches. And then the previous weekend
AS I sat here at my desk trying to decide what topic to focus on for my monthly note to you, my dear readers, my mind kept wandering to food, more precisely what I was going to eat for dinner. It’s a thought that often fills my head, even at the most inappropriate moments. From my dinner musing I started pondering on where I’d go for dinner on the weekend and so on. Anyway I decided to give in and turn this month’s rave into a celebration of this industry by recalling just a
there was the deliriously good salumi plate at Joe Vargetto’s Mezzo restaurant — prosciutto crudo, cacciatore salami, house pickled cucumbers, cured pork ‘bresaola’, and tuna carpaccio ‘la zingara’ — followed by some of the most succulent pork belly I’d ever tasted. Other recent memorables include slow roasted lamb shoulder at James Hird’s Buzo restaurant, the silky dumplings slurped while watching the chefs go through their paces at Chefs Gallery, and the amazing pork and fennel sausage rolls consumed at a table in the gritty surrounds of Bourke Street Bakery’s Marrickville outpost. There was the magnificent Rueben sandwich with corned beef at the fine new
Felix Bistro, and all the delicious sharing morsels at District Dining from the prawn toast, to the chicken wings to the crispy quail eggs. Eggs? Did someone say eggs? Can’t forget that perfect poached egg at Tamworth’s Old Bell Tower cafe. Common to all these was faultless service by front of house staff who added to the joy of being there. Anyway, really this most indulgent of all editorials is about how brilliant this grand industry is and how much excellence is out there from operators with attention to detail and passion for food and people. Hey I love you all!
Rosemary Ryan
Ph: (02) 9422 2642 kevin.kasih@reedbusiness.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ronnie Lawrence Ph: (02) 9422 2741 NATOR PRODUCTION CO-ORDIN Laura Panameno Ph: (02) 9422 8772 laura.panameno@reedbusiness.com.au PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Troy Stevens Ph: (02) 9422 8748 SUBSCRIPTIONS
contents 4 News
14 Hospitality chef
$10,000 in 90 minutes for Melbourne chef. NSW restaurants face food safety deadline.
Why is chef and restaurateur Paul Wilson hanging out in pubs?
6 Openings
Austrian wine flexes muscles on Aussie lists.
18 Imbibe The latest new arrivals to open their doors.
Ph: 1300 360 126 ONE YEAR: $132.00 incl GST TWO YEARS: $220.00 incl GST
31 Burgin 8 Mystery diner
Essential steps for successful events.
We visit Geoff Lindsay’s new Vietnamese.
32 Dr Hospitality REED BUSINESS INFORMATION PTY LTD SYDNEY HEAD OFFICE Tower 2, 475 Victoria Avenue, Chatswood, NSW 2067 Australia Ph: (02) 9422 2999 Fax: (02) 9422 2863
10 Workplace
Your hospitality management questions answered.
Planning a staff restructure?
Features 20 Tea on a high The gentile and growing occasion of high tea is in the spotlight.
24 Watch the birdy Seven top chefs share their recipes for warming winter ways with duck, quail and chicken.
28 Turn up the volume A new wave of operators is raising the benchmark for event catering.
No.674 July 2011
ON THE COVER:
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
foodservice
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
PUB CHEF
Why Paul Wilson is spending a lot of time in local watering holes
Tea on a high
Average Net Distribution Period ending March 11 13,950
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
accommodation
I
beverage
I
management
Crank up the volume Success is in the detail with event catering
Austrians flex muscles Austrian wines build local presence
Aussie appetites grow for afternoon delight
Look at the Print Post Approved PP349181/00109
MATERIAL The publisher does not accept responsibility for any editorial or advertising material forwarded or held in storage nor will material be automatically returned. Whole or part of this publication cannot be reproduced without prior written approval from Hospitality’s management.
I
Birdy 7
chefs’ winter ideas for chicken, duck and quail
Got to love some perfectly cooked duck don’t you? Well on the cover this month we have a picture of a beautiful winter duck dish from the menu of chef Peter Robertson from Sydney restaurant Baroque Bistro. Robertson is one of seven chefs who’ve contributed recipes to our feature celebrating the popular poultry trio of duck, quail, and chicken. Being a French bistro, Baroque usually has duck on the menu Robertson told Hospitality when we
spoke to him for the feature. “Duck is consistently on our menu at Baroque in some way or another.” Robertson said. “It’s something that’s classically French.” Also contributing to our focus on our fine feathered friends was Mezzo Bar and Grill’s Joseph Vargetto, Franco Choo’s Steven Choo, France-Soir’s Geraud Fabre, Aki’s Kumar Mahadevan, Bitton Café’s David Bitton and 400 gradi’s Johnny di Francesco.
hospitality | july 2011
3
news
Awards
$10,000 is all in a few hours work for top Melbourne chef Chef Nicolas Poelaert was celebrating after picking up the big winner’s cheque at this year’s FSAA CHEF of the Year competition. HOW does $10,000 for 90 minutes work sound? That’s what chef Nicolas Poelaert achieved by winning this year’s FSAA CHEF of the Year national championship. Poelaert, who operates Embrasse restaurant, and is a former The Age Young Chef of the Year, beat defending champion, Soren Lascelles, from Sydney’s Assiette restaurant, along with the rest of the competition at the event held at industry event FSA Expo 2011 last month. More than 20 chefs went head to head over two days of the show in the competition. Their challenge was to come up with three separate dishes from a mystery box of ingredients and prepare six serves of each for the judges in an hour and half. Common throughout the boxes was a different cut of lamb that the chefs had to feature in all dishes. Poelaert (pictured) said the competition was a challenge. “It is a tough competition, it's pretty stressful,” he told Hospitality magazine shortly after being announced the winner. "But this will come in handy, I need some new chairs for the restaurant." The French-born chef said his box had included some lamp rump and lamb kidneys which he used in the three different dishes. "The kidneys were a bit of a surprise," he said. "They aren’t something I use a lot." Poelaert said his strategy had been to try to show off a variety of different techniques to produce some simple but creative dishes for the judges. “You don’t have time to do anything too complicated but you need to come up with something different, outside the box."
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Source: hospitalitymagazine.com.au 20 to 24 June, 2011
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hospitality | july 2011
E coli scare prompts local food warning AS EUROPEAN authorities searched for the causes of the deadly e coli outbreak in Europe last month, Australian food safety authorities said it also highlighted the need for food handlers here to be vigilant about food safety practices. The source of the bacteria in Germany was traced to to raw salad shoots and seeds but it left a death toll of more than 23 and caused more than 2000 people to fall ill. In Australia the NSW Food Authortiy used the outbreak to remind local foodservice operators and consumers to be vigilant when handling fresh produce. It said it was a “timely reminder” for consumers and food handlers to follow the normal practice of food safety and hygiene when preparing and handling fresh fruit and vegetables. It urged foodservice operators to head to its website to check out its range of food safety tips for ensuring the safety of fresh food. Meanwhile, FSANZ said it was working with the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service to assess the risks.
Glass washer scores first in water saving tick A MACHINE from Winterhalter has become the first commercial glass washer to be granted certification under the Australian water savings program Smart WaterMark. While energy and water ratings have long been available for domestic machines, the Smart Approved Watermark certification of the machine is a first step for the commercial ware washing sector here. The Winterhalter UC Undercounter Commercial glass washing unit received the approval after Winterhalter was able to demonstrate that it uses around 2.2 litres of water per cycle, less than the maximum of three litres Winterhalter’s Brett Duffy and Cally Sheehan from Smart Water. per wash allowed in guidelines. Smart WaterMark is a national program that identifies and certifies water saving products and services. It's a sister program to the WELS Star Rating for domestic appliances. Smart Watermark chief executive officer Julian Gray said the Smart WaterMark for the Winterhalter unit marked a milestone in the program. “It was identified that the hospitality sector needed independent assistance in recognising equipment that used water and in turn energy more efficiently — both offering benefits for our environment and cost savings for their businesses,” he said. Gray said the Smart WaterMark program had worked closely with Sydney Water to develop guidelines for commercial glass washers, which were identified as a major water and energy user in the hospitality industry in Australia.
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
news
Legislation
NSW foodservice urged to act now on new food safety requirement The deadline for New South Wales foodservice businesses to ensure they have a certified food safety supervisor on staff is approaching. THE NSW Food Authority is reminding the foodservice industry that time is ticking away for New South Wales’ businesses to appoint a Food Service Supervisor (FSS) and avoid being fined. Businesses have until October 1 to ensure they have a trained FSS on staff and to notify the relevant council of who their FSS is. A NSW Food Authority spokesman said the take up rate by businesses had been “slower than we would like” and so wanted to give a reminder to the industry about the deadline. “If your business is a restaurant, takeaway, pub, club, catering service or bakery you must have at
least one trained and notified FSS by October 1 or you will be breaking the law,” the spokesman said. Restaurant and Catering Australian chief executive officer John Hart urged foodservice businesses not to risk prosecution by failing to be compliant by the start date. “We know our members are all well underway with this and that they know that they have to be completed by the end of September,” Hart said. “We have promoted it a lot and there have been great numbers going through. But there will always be those that don’t [make the deadline]. And they will risk being prosecuted.”
To become a certified FSS, nominated staff need to complete training within the Vocational Education and Training system. The legislation also requires refresher training every five years. The NSW Food Authority said the mandatory training was aimed at “adding an extra layer” to initiatives already in place to reduce foodborne illness. It said poor food handling accounts for more than a third of foodborne illness in NSW and costs the community around $416m a year. The new initiative brings NSW into line with requirements in Queensland and Victoria.
World’s top chefs head to Sydney for food festival THE CONTINGENT of top international chefs heading to Sydney for the annual World Chef Showcase that’s at the heart of the Crave Sydney International Food Festival in October has been revealed in all its glory. Amongst the group who’ll be sharing their food philosophies and tips during the two day World Chef Showcase program are the talents behind six of the S Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants. They include Alex Atala from Brazil, the South American chef behind D.O.M restaurant (#7), Daniel Patterson from Coi, San Francisco (#76), David Chang from New York’s Momofuku SSam(#40) and Momofuku Ko (#65), and Argentinian Maura Colagreco from Mirazu (#68). They’ll be joined by Gabrielle Hamilton (pictured) from Prune restaurant in New York, who’s just been named Chef of the Year in the prestigious James Beard awards, and hot young Los Angeles chefs Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook. They’ll be teaming up with some of our most innovative local chefs including Ben Milgate and Ben Abrahanowicz (Bodega, Porteno), Andrew McConnell (Cumulus, Cutler & Co, Golden Fields), Martin Benn (Sepia), Tony Bilson (Bilson’s), Frank Camorra (Movida), Philippa Sibley, Ben Shewry (Attica), Dan Hong (Ms G’s), Mark Best (Marque), Luke Nguyen (Red Lantern), Adriano Zumbo (Adriano Zumbo Patissier), Alex Herbert (Bird Cow Fish), Peter Gilmore (Quay) and Neil Perry.
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
in brief Top suppliers awarded Some of the best suppliers keeping the Australian foodservice industry moving were honoured at the recent Foodservice Suppliers Association Australia’s National Awards of Excellence. Making the trip to the winners’ podium were Bidvest, Foodservice Central, Superior Food Services, QFFS, Max Stocks Wholesale Foodservice, PFD Foodservices, Asian United Food Service, Sealanes, Craven Foods, Inghams Foodservice, Golden Circle, Australian Fine China, Comcater, Vanrooy, and the Ausralian Culinary Federation.
Aussies hungry for info More than 70 per cent of Australians want to know more about the nutritional content of their meals when eating out, with more than half believing restaurants should be responsible for providing nutritional information on their offerings. The inaugural Unilever Food Solutions World Menu Report found almost three quarters of Australians will choose to eat with food operators who are more transparent about the ingredients they handle. It also found Australians are most interested in knowing the fat (64 per cent), MSG (50 per cent) and sugar (49 per cent) content of their meals.
Munro is new AAA CEO The Accommodation Association of Australia has lured the former Australian Hotels Association NSW chairman for the accommodation sector Richard Munro to become its new chief executive officer. Most recently the director of development Australia/New Zealand/Pacific with World Hotels, Munro has more than 20 years experience in the industry.
Meat sales slump Meat sales across the country dropped 10 to 15 per cent following the Four Corners program showing footage of cruel cattle slaughtering practices in Indonesian abattoirs. Tom Maguire of the Australian Meat Industry Council, said he wasn’t surprised the public had turned away from meat. "Seeing what was the appalling...treatment of animals upsets people's values,”he said.
hospitality | july 2011
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openings
St Katherine’s The latest venture from the ever expanding The Press Club Group, St Katherine’s is a reflection of the combined cultural backgrounds of chefs George Calombaris and Shane Delia. It’s packing them in with rustic fare including plenty of succulent meat from the grill and rotisserie. Opened: May Capacity: 150 downstairs in the restaurant and 100 in the upstairs function room. Head chef: Paul Dunlop Food: St Katherine’s embraces a contemporary sharing style menu, with a melding of Modern Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern flavours. As well as meat and seafood from its custom-made Turkish grill, fourteen spike rotisserie and a wood fired oven, there are signatures like Turkish lamb dumplings, St Katherine's fried chicken, and Coca Cola lamb ribs. Address: 26 Cotham Road, Kew, Melbourne
Shortgrain Canteen
La Rosa Bar and Pizza
The team at Sydney’s Longrain has expanded the successful restaurant and launched a new little brother — Shortgrain — a downstairs licensed canteen and takeaway with an ever changing lunch board menu.
Chef and restaurateur Nino Zoccali’s latest venture is a stylish pizzeria and bar at the opposite end of level two of Sydney’s historic Strand Arcade to his highly acclaimed Italian fine diner Pendolino. Be wowed by the food, wine and liqueurs as well as the “ecclesiastic Italianate” space.
Opened: May Capacity: Up to 20. Head chef: Martin Boetz Food: With its ‘streetstyle vibe’, Shortgrain is serving a daily changing, short and seasonal lunch menu featuring a selection of six to eight different dishes that will always include a different curry and salad — think green curry of chicken with rice noodles and a prawn and smoked mussel salad with chilli nahm jim plus dishes like roast pork with Chinese brcccoli and yellow bean — all priced under $20. Address: 10 Hunt Street (opposite Hotel Hollywood) Surry Hills, Sydney
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hospitality | july 2011
Opened: June Capacity: 100 in the main restaurant and a further 20 at the bar. Head chef: Nino Zoccali Food: Authentic southern Italian food designed with plenty of passion from Zoccali and his team. Along with the thin based pizza there’s baked pastas and traditional Neapolitan mains, including offal, baby octopus and truffled wild boar sausages. Plus Zoccali is working with salume master Vince Papandrea to create a range or artisan smallgoods that will be on offer. In the bar is tasty small plates to pair with the 50 Italian liqueurs on the list. Address: Strand Arcade, Sydney CBD
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
High
review
Dandelion The latest venture from high profile chef Geoff Lindsay has been one of the most hotly anticipated new Vietnamese restaurants Melbourne has ever seen. Our masked diner battled drizzle and a difficult to spot location for a taste of the spicy menu on offer.
mysterydiner MELBOURNE is not exactly bereft of Vietnamese dining experiences, but in the main they’re in the cheap and cheerful category sending steaming bowls of pho and curry out to the hordes that flock in to the strips in Richmond, Footscray and other centres of Asian food excellence. Not too many of these establishments could hold their head up as ‘high end’ and many others struggle for ‘authentic’, but none of them is the least bit like Dandelion. Geoff Lindsay, latterly of Pearl, but with a Melbourne food pedigree that goes back through Stella to Stephanie’s, has applied his significant skill and expertise to the Vietnamese domain with wonderful results. Getting a table is the biggest issue with this new kid on an Elwood strip flush with restaurants, followed closely by getting a car park. My only real criticism of Dandelion is that it’s hard to see from the road on a very dark and drizzly night. It’s all very well to get the designers in to make the logo look cool, but it loses a little impact if you can’t see it. Moving on, we arrive and are shown to a table near the open kitchen in a space that is long, lean and with a planter box high-rise on the opposite wall to the bar providing a bountiful crop of mint, basil and other fresh and fragrant herbs. The menu comes with dining descriptions outlining what the sections represent and with a brief ‘how to’ guide on protocol. Some will find this a bit over the top, but I found it instructive and useful. This is new dining and if you want the customer to savour the experience, then lead them from the beginning. The wine list eschews some of the ‘bigger’ wines by design. Not for this food are the likes of shiraz, cab sav or even a full chardonnay. A foreword to Grant Van Every’s wine list explains that the food lends itself more to aromatics and this keeps the delicate food as focus. I find that it also has the dual benefit of providing a range of wine that is friendlier to the pocket. We choose a Kooyong “Beurrot” Pinot Gris ($58) and it provides a great foil to the following delights. First up the beloved and I have a swing at the ‘Wrap and Roll Bar’ section of the menu. We 8
hospitality | july 2011
Geoff LIndsay’s Dandelion.
make a conscious decision to head toward things that we wouldn’t normally have and so the likes of crispy soft shell crab, pork belly and duck are out. In are pancakes, chicken wings and beef. The Sizzling Coconut Pancake ($24) arrives first. Imagine making a pancake batter, swirling it around the pan and allowing it to cook to a crispy, but not burnt texture. When done, fill the pan with sweet crab bits, slices of roast pork and a pile of beanshoots. Invert on a plate and voila, entrée. With it arrives a plate with a lettuce quarter, mint, basil and dipping sauces. Prise off a leaf, rip into the pancake, top with herbs, roll, dip, eat. Messy, crunchy, flavoursome and fun. The Chicken Wings ($18) arrive as three fat, deep fried, frenched soldiers. Stuffed with black mushroom and ginger before being rolled in sesame seeds, they are startlingly hot and tasty to boot. Then comes the Betel wrapped Beef ‘Ba La Lot’. Minced Waygu portions about the size of a 50 cent piece and as thick as your finger, were moist and packing a real beefy flavour punch. All good. All fun. Mains bring with them another plate of lettuce et al with the addition of noodles. These are joined by a steaming bowl of Yellowtail Kingfish ($33) in a Tumeric Curry with slices of green papaya, snake beans and sprigs of dill. The joy of quality kingfish is that it maintains great texture when cooked in a dish such as this, avoiding the need to collapse as some other white fish do. The flavours are lovely and we sop it up with the baguette as instructed on the menu. From the
coconut grill we chose the Whole Baby Spatchcock ($28) with flavourings of garlic, lemongrass and five spice. The bird, like all other items on the ‘grill’ section, is marinated in coconut water and papaya seeds to tenderise – this seems to work a treat as our splayed and barbequed delight is moist as well as tasty. We tear at it with our hands, squeeze the lemon cheek over, wrap the meat in lettuce, dipped away at leisure and had a fine time. Desserts are a representation of some of the more interesting things you will see at street stalls in Vietnam and while the bride heads for the Banana Spring Rolls ($14), I choose the path of a little sweet treat offering in the form of Cashew Nut Fudge and Ginger Chew ($5). The spring rolls are finger thin, crunchy and very bananaesque in the middle. They come with a cleansing passionfruit sorbet. The fudge is great and the ginger chews have the capacity to glue anyone’s mouth shut before softening and releasing a sensation that is at once sweet and hot in a very gingery way. This is a terrific new entry to the dining scene in Melbourne. It adds a level of class and polish to a much loved food style. Is it as close to Bangkok hawker food as some would want? No, but the hipsters and I (and other non hipster types) are flocking here for a great interpretation of Vietnamese food, served well. It’d going to thrive in a busy strip and deserves its success.
The details Dandelion 133 Ormond Road, Elwood. Victoria 03 9531 4900. Chef: Geoff Lindsay Verdict: I’m already planning my next visit! It might not be as close to Bangkok hawker food as some would want but this is a great interpretation of Vietnamese food, served well in a restaurant that is delivering a cool, lived in vibe. Website: dandelion.ws
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
workplace
Workforce change and redundancy Planning a restructure of your business that will include an overhaul of your staff situation? Read on. BUSINESSES often need to adapt and change in order to remain competitive. Such changes may call for a reshuffle or even complete overhaul of staff utilisation. However, an employer’s right to make decisions about the optimal levels and distribution of staff can be constrained by the interests of employees and their work rights. There exists an undisputed managerial prerogative to implement workforce change, introduce new technology, enact financial stringency measures, or commence reductions in staffing. However, employers need to be aware of their legislative obligations when seeking to implement such changes, especially if they include major restructures or redundancies.
Consultation The Fair Work Act (2009) (FWA) requires Modern Awards and Enterprise Agreements to include a work-
place change employee consultation term. The Modern Hospitality Industry (General) Award for example includes a provision which requires employee notification and discussion regarding decisions which will or may have a ‘significant effect’ on employees. The scope or significance of business decisions which will instigate the requirement, or the extent of the consultation required is not always clear, but may include changes to the composition or size of the workforce including work hours, transfers or change of location, and may require written notification and consultation with the employee or their representative. Any business decision which involves a significant number of redundancies will always be sufficient to trigger the consultation requirement.
Redundancy If an employer is considering redun-
dancies as part of their business change they need to be aware of the often complex legislative provisions relating to this action. The FWA indicates that any redundancy needs to be genuine, with the specific job in question no longer required due to changes in operational requirements. The redundancy must be related only to the business’s requirements, not on account of any personal act or misconduct of the employee.
Redeployment Complicating this, the FWA also stipulates a requirement to prevent potential redundancy if and where it is reasonable to redeploy the employee. What is reasonable is again often difficult to determine, and based on the particular circumstances of the business. Some unclear situations include an offer of a lower paid, or lower responsibility role, an offer of a position within another associat-
ed company, or offer of only a part time position when previously employed on a full time basis. In implementing redundancies, the aforementioned employee consultation is required, as well as provision of a formal notice period, or payment in lieu of notice. The value of redundancy payment is identified in the FWA at between four and sixteen weeks, determined by length of the employees’ service. There are some exemptions from the payment of redundancy, related to the size of business and length of the employees’service. Formal applications are also available via Fair Work Australia to request reductions in the redundancy liability based on business circumstances.
Temporary closure Some businesses operate on a seasonal basis and close during low tradingmonths. Continued on page 34
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Only one Australian food service company enables you to serve a sustainable alternative...
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secretingredients Uwe Habermehl — Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre With more than 20 years’ experience in Europe and Australia, this very busy exec chef is the dynamic and creative force behind the food operations at the Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre. He took a few minutes out of his schedule to speak to Hospitality magazine. Can you give us a brief history of your career so far? When I joined the Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre (SCEC) in 1998, I’d only planned to stay a year or two but I found the environment so stimulating that, 11 years later, I’m still here. My move to the SCEC followed many years working in fine dining and boutique resorts starting with my first job at the Hilton International Munich in 1986. A year later I moved to Hilton International London, marking the start of a global career. After working at the Sheraton Hotel and Towers in Stockholm, I arrived in Australia in 1989, taking on the role of chef de partie and sous chef at the Fairmont Resort before moving to Hamilton Island Resort. Following a two-year stint at Lufthansa German Airlines in Frankfurt, I returned to Australia in 1996 to work for P&O Resorts at Cradle Mountain Lodge and Heron Island Resort. Enticed by the prospect of working in a large-scale culinary environment, I joined the SCEC. What’s your favourite dish on your menu? The entrée tasting plate – it gives you many options with different flavours in smaller portions. One of the combinations we offer is a white tea confit pork belly, five spice-dusted duck breast and warm oxtail confit pie but we regularly change it depending on seasonal availability. What’s your favourite ingredient at the moment? Truffles from NSW. I can’t wait. Also the Titania chestnut-fed beef tenderloin for its texture, ageing, flavour — a great point of difference. Kohlrabi is not widely used but is a fantastic winter vegetable with short season availability. It goes great with the Titania chestnut-fed beef. 12
hospitality | july 2011
Apart from your own, what’s your favourite restaurant? Summer Salt in Cronulla. And what’s your pick of the menu there? The twice cooked duck leg with orange and cassia bark glaze. What’s been your most memorable food experience? While driving through the Flinders Ranges one day I came across the Prairie Hotel, an old converted railway station. It was out of the way and completely surprising and unexpected. The food is simple and rustic and the wine list is sensational. What do you think is the most over-rated ingredient being used on menus at the moment? Not necessarily an ingredient but I think molecular-gastronomy is completely over-rated. One should get the basics right and do them well, like curing, rather than putting on the rubber gloves and goggles to make a meal. The most indispensable piece of equipment in your kitchen? It would have to be our vacuum machine for sure. The sous vide method retains the flavour and moisture and produces a very good
end product regardless of if you’re cooking for 10 or 500 guests.
best produce and the best possible price.
What will be the next big foodservice trend? Tasting plates, because of the variety of flavours all on one plate for any number of guests. The interesting combinations in small portions will become really popular.
What’s the key to keeping staff motivated? Investing in training opportunities and giving staff ownership. We’re starting a cooking library and a knowledge-based system where staff can share ideas and borrow cookbooks just like they would at a regular library. It keeps them interested and enthusiastic.
You’ve just been handed $2m. How would you spend it on your business? I’d invest in technology to reduce the paper trail and increase efficiencies, monitor the cooking process such as cooking a steak medium-rare and getting it exactly on 58C. I’d also like to get flat screen monitors for the kitchen with photos, recipes and wireless keyboards so that kitchen staff can look up all their needs right in front of them. With the price of everything rising what are your tips for keeping costs under control in the kitchen? Most importantly reduce waste, use technology, keep track of inventory and work smarter, not harder. It also helps to use seasonal produce — changing ingredients with seasonal availability. It’s also important to have close relationships with high quality suppliers so you can get the
Your dream hospitality gig? I haven’t achieved everything I’ve set out to achieve in my current role so there is a lot more to do here and I don’t want to become complacent. Vent your spleen. What annoys you about this business? People that don’t have a can-do attitude and chefs without a spark or passion for what they do. What would be on the menu at your last supper? Home-made spaetzle with finely shaved Grana Padano and truffles matched with Cristal champagne followed by Zokoko 75 per cent cocoa chocolate with a sparkling pinot noir. If you weren’t a chef you’d be…? …very bored.
Uwe Habermehl’s Mulled Wine Parfait 8 egg yolks 270g caster sugar 600ml red wine Zest of 1 orange 1 vanilla bean 2 whole cloves 1 cinnamon quill Pinch of nutmeg (freshly grated) 450ml thickened cream Line mould with dessert rice paper.
Bring the red wine, orange zest and spices to the boil and reduce by half. Whisk egg yolk and sugar together over hot water until thick and fluffy. Whisk cream and scraped vanilla bean together till soft peaks. Strain the red wine through a fine sieve. Fold egg mix, cream and red wine together until fully incorporated. Pour in to mould and freeze. Best overnight.
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Paul Wilson leading the revolution in pub dining.
hospitalitychef
Paul Wilson is
KING OF THE PUBS Chef Paul Wilson has been the name at the forefront of many Melbourne dining icons. Now he’s one of the leaders transforming the food in Melbourne’s (and soon Sydney’s) pubs. By Danielle Bowling. aul Wilson would have to have one of the most difficult jobs in Melbourne. Every day he’s faced with the task of coming up with new and exciting concepts for foodservice venues; concepts that are familiar enough to Melburnians so as not to scare them away, but still unique, original and enticing — something very important in the city's ultra-competive dining scene. Well known for his work in some of Melbourne’s most acclaimed restaurants, Wilson is these days the head of Mr Wilson, the restaurant concept consultancy he founded, as well as the director (and soon to be partner) of the Pub Group, which last year saw the opening of eight new venues including the Newmarket Hotel, Middle Park Hotel and Albert Park Hotel, and he's now renowned as being somewhat of a gastropub guru, a dining scene that's a far cry from where he spent his formative cheffing years. Starting his apprenticeship at the Stafford Hotel in London, Wilson went on to work at a plethora of high-end, luxurious hotels in the UK including The Dorchester Hotel, the Ritz, Four Seasons and Hanbry manor with Albert Roux. This was all before his time at Quaglino's restaurant, part of the empire of Sir Terence Conran, one of the world's best known designers and restaurateurs. “He had the biggest influence on my career in terms of changing the style of my cooking and helping me to be more in-tune with casual eating.” says Wilson. “My previous career was very much grand hotels, fine dining and Michelin stars.” Wilson came to Australia to help Conran open a restaurant precinct and retail store in Melbourne called Georges. Later, after he fell in love with Melbourne, he decided to stay and spent time at the Park Hyatt before he helped relaunch The Botanical, both to much acclaim. He decided to venture out on his own, with the birth of Mr Wilson, about 18 months ago. At the moment Wilson manages seven kitchens in Melbourne, is doing work with the Hilton group and is planning to purchase and relaunch some existing pubs in Sydney, a city he believes has much potential. The transition from glamorous hotels to gastropubs isn't a step down, Wilson says, he’s simply following a growing trend in
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hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Pub food: the dining room at the Newmarket Hotel.
‘You’ve got to look beyond Australia to have an impact here in Australia.’ Melbourne that has people still demanding great quality food and service, but in a more casual setting. “The market's changed dramatically and if you don't change with the market you get left behind,” Wilson says. “Like any professional person you want to keep doing things that are credible, so if the market wants casual food and eclectic food, then let's do it in a way that no one else has done it before.” And food really is the focus in Melbourne, he insists, unlike Sydney which he believes is more gaming and beverage orientated. “Melbourne has always had a love for hotels and pubs, but not necessarily as dining venues, more for drinking and sports because of our sporting culture and the AFL,”
he says. “But over the past five years we've become very food focussed. Since the smoking laws have changed, pub operators have realised that they need to introduce new revenue streams and food is obviously a way of keeping customers in the venue and drinking as well.” Wilson sees gastropubs in Australia as the French see their brasseries, and believes a good gastropub is characterised by an interesting wine list, talented chefs that have experience in Michelin-starred or hatted restaurants, and interesting architecture. “I don't see pubs and restaurants as different at all,” he says. “I just see them as venues where people want to eat and eat well. And the joy of the pub is that it's less formal and you can use it as you see fit. You're not pigeonholed into an experience.” Wilson says one of the most challenging parts of his job is coming up with unique menu concepts — something that’s very important both because of the close proximity of his venues and also to maintain the interest of the Pub Group's staff, who move around from one pub to another. “Firstly I look at the location and the demographic of the area, so that would drive the price point,” he says. “Then I look at the size of the venue and what sort of cuisine would suit the size and the market that it’s in. For example, at the Newmarket in St Kilda, it's a very young and eclectic area so we thought South American, Mexican, Californian cuisine would be really appropriate because it suits that younger
Paul’s picks FAVOURITE FOOD-RELATED BOOK? Rick Stein's Mediterranean Escape. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Il Pirata, on the Amalfi coast. FAVOURITE PLACE TO SHOP FOR FOOD AND INGREDIENTS? Any of our local markets in Melbourne, in particularly South Melbourne Market and Victoria Street, Richmond. FAVOURITE MEAL EXPERIENCE? Barbecued live seafood over coconut husks on the beach at Jimbaran Bay in Bali — with my wife at sunset.
hospitality | july 2011
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hospitalitychef
Pie of the day at the Middle Park.
On the plate at the Albert Park Hotel.
crowd that like to share items, and it's a food culture that goes well with drinks.” But over at Middle Park Hotel, the crowd is older, a little bit more mainstream and with a strong sporting focus, so Wilson's "retro" menu items include scotch eggs, chicken kiev and prawn cocktails. Finding inspiration for new restaurant concepts and menu ideas is difficult, says Wilson, but travelling around the world and
going back to Europe every two years certainly helps. “If you're a food lover you're always proactive in what's happening in the world and you're always researching, buying cookbooks and looking to others,” he says. “You've got to look beyond Australia to have an impact here in Australia.” And while Wilson does his best to make his menus as individual as possible, there are
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Paul’s Upside Down Apple Tart “It's peak season for apples, look out for heritage or sour varieties to make this lovely apple tart,” Paul Wilson Caramelised apples: 1.5kg Granny Smith apples 1/2 litre apple juice 1kg sugar 1tbspn glucose 250g unsalted butter, sliced 25ml calvados 50ml vegetable oil Cinnamon ice cream: 2 vanilla pods, split and scraped 3 cinnamon quills, smashed 20ml calvados 500ml whole milk 500ml double cream 12 large free range egg yolks Tart base: 150g caster sugar 70g cool melted butter 2 whole eggs 67g creme fraiche 120g plain flour 65g sultanas, pre-soaked in calvados or cider Caramelised apples Combine sugar, apple juice, calvados and glucose and bring to the boil for roughly 15 minutes to a rich caramel, 350 degrees on a sugar thermometer. Add butter and reduce the heat slightly and keep warm. Peel and slice apples. Cut width-ways in half, leaving the core which you can remove once the apples are cooked. Heat a large frying pan with vegetable oil and fry the apple halves on both sides for about 30 seconds until evenly browned, in two or three batches. Drain the apples in a colander as you go. Once they are all lightly cooked increase the heat of the caramel to 375 degrees, then place the apples in a deep heatproof tray and pour the rich caramel over the apples. Allow to steep in the caramel for 15 minutes. Don't leave the apples in the caramel too long, otherwise they will overcook.
thing that's ethically correct. “The menus are diverse but they have a strong ethical message as well as an interest in heritage and a specific identity. I think that's why our hotels do well in Melbourne, because the food is delicious and we use great inhospitalitymagazine.com.au
Take your individual baking tins and lightly butter and line with a greaseproof paper circle. Drain your apples from the caramel and place a generous spoon of caramel in each mould. Place the apple in the centre, top with a little more caramel and allow to cool. This can be done a day or so in advance if you wish.
Make easyy work of dessert NESTLÉ Mousse Mixes are the quick and easy way to create perfectly creamy mousse, every time. Available in a range of tempting flavours they’re delicious served as a straight mousse, or as a fabulous base for more creative desserts, like this Irish Cream Mousse.
Cinnamon ice cream Warm milk, cream, vanilla and crushed cinnamon quills with 50g of sugar, do not boil. Add calvados to egg yolks, sugar and whisk until pale and creamy. Almost bring infused cream to the boil. Ladle small quantities into the egg yolk mixture, whisking as you go. Complete this gradually or it will scramble the eggs. Add mixture to a wide deepish pan so the heat is transferred evenly. Gradually warm the custard, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until it begins to coat the back of the spoon. Pass through a fine sieve and chill quickly, over ice is best. Churn as your ice cream manufacturer machine recommends. The tart Combine eggs, sugar, butter and crème fraiche, whisk until smooth. Gradually sieve flour and mix to a thickish batter. Add your soaked sultanas. Allow to rest for at least three hours or overnight. Pre-heat your oven to 170 degrees. Pipe a 2cm high round of cake mixture on top of the apples in the moulds and bake for 15 minutes. Allow to settle once cooked, and then invert on to serving dishes. Glaze with some caramel and top with cinnamon ice cream.
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hospitality | july 2011
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imbibe
Austrian wines boost Australian profile They may have names that are hard for Australians to pronounce but those in the know urge you not to let that stand in the way of including Austrian wines on your lists. By Christine Salins. he Austrian wines that Andreas Puhar sells through his wine import business, Enoteca Sydney, and his Sydney CBD restaurant, deVine, have a dedicated following. But Puhar is the first to admit “it’s a small drop in a large ocean”. “Austrian wines are world class but Australians are not familiar with them,” he said. “It’s not far from Syrah to Shiraz but it’s a long way to Blaufränkisch.” According to Puhar, one of the main barriers for consumers is in pronouncing the names of Austria’s popular grape varieties. Names such as Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch don’t roll easily off the tongue for most consumers. “Grüner Veltliner is the one they struggle with because of the pronunciation,” he said. “Once they drink it, it’s fantastic.” As well as importing an extensive selection of wines, Enoteca Sydney represents a diverse selection of Austrian labels, including Schloss Gobelsburg, Hiedler and Hirsch, from the Kamptal region; Alzinger, Rudi Pichler and Johann Donabaum, from Wachau; Wenzel, Gesellmann and Nittnaus, from Burgenland; and Heinrich Hartl and Schneider, from Niederoesterreich (Lower Austria). Puhar says Austrian reds are getting good press but it’s mostly Austrian whites you’ll see on Australian restaurant menus. His imports from Austria are about 80 to 20 in favour of whites. “Sommeliers are very receptive to Austrian wines, especially the experienced ones, but the challenge is in convincing their customers to try them,” he said. Aria sommelier, Matthew Dunne, has several dozen Austrian wines on the restaurant’s award-winning wine list, most of them Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but also a couple of reds including Schneider Reserve St Laurent, a Burgundian-style wine from Lower Austria, and Nittnaus Kalk und Schiefer, a Burgenland Blaufränkisch from one of Austria’s red pioneers. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner also dominate the Austrian wines on the list at Rockpool in Sydney, though
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Aussies dabbling with Austrian varieties
Willi Klinger is promoting the many merits of Austrian wines.
‘The whites are my personal favourites, particularly the dry Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. There seems to be quite a buzz around Grüner Veltliner wines.’ there is also a Mantlerhof Gelber Muskateller, a full bodied white from Lower Austria, and Kurt Angerer, a Pinot Noir from the Kamptal region. Sydney’s Shangri-La Hotel has a close connection to Austria through its general manager, Austrian-born Franz Donhauser. Jeremy Burke, sommelier in the hotel’s Altitude restaurant, said they aim to serve wines that complement their menu from all regions around the globe, but there are currently two Austrian whites and two Austrian reds on their list. These include Heidler Maximum Riesling, Salomon Weiden & Berg Grüner Veltliner, Andert Pamhogna Cabernet Sauvignon and Kummer Schuster Zweigelt. Burke says the Zweigelt is a medium-bodied red wine that offers a real point of difference for Australian diners. “The whites are my personal favourites, particularly the dry Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners,” said Burke. “There seems to be quite a buzz around Grüner Veltliner wines and the Salomon Weiden & Berg, made by Bert Salomon, is wonderful. (It’s a) lovely single vineyard wine, medium to full bodied, dry with vibrant citrus notes, peach and white
pepper. It makes an excellent accompaniment with white-flesh fish.” From August 1 to 6, the ShangriLa Hotel will host Taste Culture, a wine and culinary week being held in conjunction with the Austrian National Tourist Office and Austrian Airlines. Chef Werner Pichlmaier, from Vienna’s renowned Hotel Sacher, will collaborate with Altitude’s chef de cuisine, Steven Krasicki, to create a six-course degustation menu designed to complement specially chosen Austrian wines. A highlight of the culinary week will be a dinner hosted by managing director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Willi Klinger. Klinger is the dynamic international face of the Austrian wine industry and for the past five years has spearheaded its global expansion, including the penetration of Austrian wines into the Australian market. He will also be present at a dinner on August 9 at the National Gallery of Victoria which will be coordinated with an exclusive private viewing of Vienna: Art & Design there. Klinger said although Austrian wine imports to Australia have come from a small base, they’ve increased
Despite the willingness of Australian winemakers to experiment with “alternative” grape varieties, only a few have embraced the Austrian varieties. Hahndorf Hill, in the Adelaide Hills, and Lark Hill, in Canberra, produce lovely examples of Grüner Veltliner that have been warmly received by Australian sommeliers. Hahndorf Hill has also just released its 2009 Blaufränkisch. Aged for 11 months in French oak, it’s a smart full-bodied red that provides tthe perfect antidote to winter.
significantly in the past few years. Importers had achieved significant on-premise market penetration, especially in the eastern states, providing an ideal platform for the Austrian Wine Marketing Board to launch into the next stage of its program to increase exports to Australia. When I met Willi Klinger in Austria not long after he took over as head of the marketing board, he spoke candidly about the impact of “the big scandal” in 1985, when it was revealed that some wine brokers had been adulterating their wines with diethylene glycol, or anti-freeze. The scandal all but destroyed the export market for Austrian wine, but Klinger says it was a turning point for the industry, prompting it to reposition itself as a producer of quality wines. “There were 46,000 grapegrowers in Austria...now there are 23,000,” he said. “It took about 10 years to recover.” While the food-friendly Grüner Veltliner accounts for a third of the country’s production, its seductive reds, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and the fruity cherry-like St Laurent, were becoming very popular. “You couldn’t make a top 25 list [of Austrian wines] in 1986,” Klinger said. “Now you couldn’t confine it to 300.” hospitalitymagazine.com.au
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High tea at Lillianfels.
Tea on a high The rise of the high tea in Australian foodservice offers opportunities for operators who know how to tap into what makes a good one. Danielle Bowling spoke to some of the leaders in the gentile occasion. 20
hospitality | july 2011
igh tea, the luxurious afternoon delight of having perfectly brewed tea or coffee with an assortment of delicate sandwiches, scones and sweets, all in the company of a few good friends, is experiencing a revival in Australia at the moment. Next month, tea giant Dilmah will be helping that revival along with its High Tea Challenge, a competition to determine which foodservice venues do this English tradition the best. Owner of Sydney’s Flying Fish restaurant, chef Peter Kuruvita is one of the judges, and is excited about what the competition will do for tea in Australia. Kuruvita, who grew up in Sri Lanka, is passionate about tea and says that while high tea is steadily growing in popularity here, the focus is mostly on the food. “A lot of people have only emphasised the food and high tea has kind of become a little bit bastardised, so what Dilmah is trying to do is bring it back and help people to realise what tea is about,” Kuravita says. “What we’re lacking here is a bit more explanation and a bit more of the story about tea. The mystery and the romanticism of tea is there, we just haven’t exposed it enough to people.” Flying Fish has a long list of teas on its menu, ranging from Rose with Vanilla, perfect Ceylon, Berry Sensation, Gentle Minty teas, Original Earl Grey and Italian Almond. And unlike the way it’s predominantly consumed here in Australia, Kuruvita says, in general, teas aren’t supposed to be served with milk and sugar, they should be “enjoyed as they are, a beautiful beverage showing all of its natural beauty”. This involves, as a general rule of thumb, three minutes of brewing time, using water that is a little bit less than boiling. “In those three minutes you should be contemplating life, not dipping the tea bag into a cup of hot water and then throwing it away so all you’re drinking is hot water.” Kuruvita sees great opportunities for restaurateurs in high tea and is looking at ways to include it in the offering at Flying Fish. He says high teas have been traditionally enjoyed at hotels where the kitchens are bigger and there’s more staff on hand to share the workload. “I haven’t put high tea on yet but I’m going to try to build it in,” he says. “ I guess everyone is looking for times in their service when they can do something else.” Dennis Leslie, executive chef at the Hilton Adelaide, which will be both competing in and hosting the High Tea Challenge, agrees that it’s easier for hotels to fit high tea into their service hours. “We’ve got a very, very big kitchen run over three floors and we’ve got pastry chefs,” he says. “It’s your typical French brigade kitchen hospitalitymagazine.com.au
tea
The perfect match "When you start talking about tea, it's like you're talking about wine. You're talking about elevation, you're talking about soil, you're talking about all of these things that come into wine making and that same skill and passion is there in tea making. That simple cup of tea, that simple tea bag has gone through a lot of process, and a lot of love and care has gone into it." Peter Kuruvita, owner of Sydney’s Flying Fish, is one of Australia's most passionate tea advocates. He says like wine, matching tea to food is completely palette based and at Flying Fish has an extensive tea offering which he says can be matched perfectly with a number of his dishes. "Say you're having our Berry Sensation tea — you're not going to do something savoury with that. One of the things we've done is make beautiful meringues and fold the tea leaves through the meringue prior to cooking and you get this beautiful berry sensation through it." And teas aren't restricted to being matched with desserts or sweet treats, he adds. "I've crusted prawns with Orange Pekoes...and I've also used Orange Pekoe and mixed it with chilli salt and put it on our signature dish, which is the seared yellow fin tuna with twice-cooked pork belly.” Tea is a focus at Sydney’s The Loft as well where venue manager Sarah Robinson describes the high tea as "casual yet stylish”. “It isn't all about silver spoons and etiquette, but more about indulgence and great service,” she says. The Loft’s tea menu includes 12 different teas — five black teas, three green teas and four herbal and fruit teas. “One of our favourites is the Buddah's Tears, made from unopened white pekoe buds and young leaves which are then hand-rolled into a sphere,” says Robinson. “ When you place the buds into the water they open up beautifully in the teapot. We serve all our teas in glass teapots for this reason, the teas are just too beautiful to hide away. We also serve an iced version of one of our teas, the Turkish Apple. Some people prefer a cool more refreshing drink, especially in summer and the iced Turkish Apple is a great alternative to a hot tea. “Our tea infused cocktails are a lot of fun too. Our mixologists have created five cocktails that are each based around one of our tea flavours. The Oolong Song for example is a combination of almond vodka, apricot brandy and Tuaca mixed with a chilled Citrus Punch tea and finished with lemon and macerated apricots. The spirits in the cocktail are matched perfectly to the tea flavour."
‘[The service] has got to be very attentive. People come to afternoon tea to be pampered.’ that’s split up into different areas. For us, high tea is just something that we incorporate into our every day workload.” At the moment, Hilton diners can hospitalitymagazine.com.au
choose between the Sweet Delights high tea which comprises tea and coffee and a three tiered stand of finger sandwiches, mini quiche Florentines, fresh baked scones with jam and
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hospitality | july 2011
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tea
cream, chocolate dipped éclairs, baby doll cupcakes, lemon meringue tarts, rose and strawberry sponge cake, berry friands and fruit tartlets. Or if they didn’t pack their sweet tooth they can choose the High Society, which cuts some of the sugar out and replaces it with savoury morsels including vodka cured ocean trout, dried beef, sliced prosciutto, finger sandwiches, pate, brioche, smoked salmon quiches, and then the cupcakes, friands and tarts on the top tier. “Going forward, I think we’re going to go a bit traditional and just go with one high tea, so scones with jam and cream on the bottom, assorted finger sandwiches, nice little mini friands, and cupcakes on top,” Leslie says. “It’s not a customer-based response. For us it’s a lot of work to put two products out, whereas we could just refine one product and do it really well.” For Carl Middleton, executive chef at the Blue Mountains’ Lilianfels, refining the high tea offering is more than just serving up perfectly brewed tea and the freshest, most delicious sweets and sandwiches. It’s about offering the perfect ambience as well. “It’s that relaxed lounge feel, open fires, lounges, someone playing the piano,” he says. “If you have the right environment, then high tea is fantastic. You can’t just say, ‘We want to do something in the afternoon, lets do high tea’, and put it in your café or restaurant. It doesn’t have that same feel.” High tea is about feeling pampered, so a relaxed and luxurious ambiance is important, says Middleton. And impeccable presentation and service is paramount. “Presentation has got to be spot on,” he says. “Everything needs to be clean. Your sandwiches have got to be cut properly — no crusts left on. It’s got to be neat, everything has to basically look the same.”
“And like any high end service, the staff has to be well trained and look smart. It all adds to the look and feel of the restaurant as well. It’s got to be very attentive. People come to afternoon tea to be pampered.” Middleton says Lillianfels serves around 200 high teas every weekend in its Lounge Room. Its high tea package can come with or without champagne and includes some very traditional high tea classics, such as
High tea at The Loft
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hospitality | july 2011
scones with homemade jam and cream, egg mayonnaise finger sandwiches and a sweet selection of crème brulee, opera cake, melting moments, lemon tarts with Italian meringue and homemade macarons. While tradition is important when it comes to high tea, National Gallery of Victoria head chef Selvana Chelvanaigum, says she likes to change what’s put on the three tiered stand with the seasons, and often likes to create links between her high teas and the exhibitions the gallery is hosting. When Hospitality magazine spoke with Chelvanaigum, a Viennese exhibition was on, so she was planning some interesting German-style cakes and pastries for the stand including a Chocolate and Apple Gugelhupf. She says high tea represents a huge opportunity for foodservice businesses, if you get it right. “It works fantastically,” Chelvanaigum says. “When you work the food costs and you work the service it’s very good for the hospitality industry.” It’s also a good opportunity to minimise wastage and make the most of foods that you might have on offer anyway. “For example, if you’re cutting a slab of cake and you have little bits left then that little bit that’s left is still nice and shouldn’t be put in the bin. It can be used as a petit four, and high tea is a petit four stand.” Regardless of what you put on the stand, it all comes back to service. It’s the one thing you must get right, every time. “People come here to be looked after, to have someone making sure the water in their teapot is hot, to bring more hot water, to top up the sparkling wine,”Chelvanaigum says. “They’re going to spend something like two and a half hours over their high tea so it’s important to go back to the customer, really serve then well, make sure they’ve got enough jam and cream.”
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Birdy
As winter bites, popular poultry and game birds like duck, quail and chicken are warming up cold weatther menus. We asked seven chefs for one of the favourite ways they are using them to tempt their gue ests. Read on for their tasty tips.
Peter Robertson’s Confit Leg of Duck .
poultry
CONFIT LEG OF DUCK, PARSNIP, ROAST ONION, NASTURTIUM From Peter Robertson Baroque Bistro, The Rocks "Duck is consistently on our menu at Baroque in some way or another — it’s something that’s classically French. At the moment we have a dish on the menu with the leg and the breast. We do a brine for the breast and then we cook it sous vide and then grill it. I find this limits the shrinkage. We’ll also do duck fat beurre noisettes and with all the trim we do duck rillettes for the charcuterie, duck terrine, duck consomme. duck stock and duck sauce.” Peter Robertson Serves 8 Confit 50g salt flakes Zest of a lemon Zest of a lime Zest of an orange 1 clove of garlic, minced 5g thyme, chopped 1/2g five spice 8 duck legs (as large as possible) 200g duck fat Combine salt and seasonings, reserve. With a small sharp knife remove the thigh bone of the duck to the first joint. Season with the salt mixture and reserve for four hours. Remove excess seasonings from the duck and shape into uniform balls, place in a deep roasting dish just large enough to fit the legs, cover with duck fat and then foil. Confit at 85C for eight hours, allow to cool, remove the legs from the fat. (If you are doing this in advance then leave the legs to cool completely in the fat as they can be stored for a much longer time that way). Vegetable garnish 16 parsnips (as small as possible) 3 large brown onions 1 red onion 130g red wine vinegar 200g black currant juice 16 nasturtium leaves (as small as possible, larger leafs have a stronger flavour). Peel the parsnips, trim to a uniform size. Blanch in boiling water for eight minutes then in a large sauté pan colour the parsnips in a small amount of grapeseed oil. Once coloured deglaze the pan with water then adjust seasoning and reserve. Peel the brown onions and cut each into six segments then arrange on a baking sheet, season and coat in grape seed oil, bake in oven at 220C for 20 minutes or until tender and golden. Peel the red onion and cut in half. Blanch in boiling water for six minutes then break the onion apart into separate cups, cover with red wine vinegar and blackcurrant juice, reserve. Pick nasturtium leaves into ice water, strain and reserve. hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Joseph Vargetto’s Duck Breast, Pumpkin Puree, Olive and Liquorice.
The sauce 50g sugar 150g liquor reserved from onions 200g veal glaze 1 ripe pear In a small pan make a caramel with the sugar and then stop with the onion liquor. Reduce by 3/4 then add veal glaze. Dice pear to a uniform 0.5mm dice and add to sauce. Bring back to simmer and reserve. To finish: Place the duck legs on a baking sheet and colour in a 180C oven until golden brown. In the last five minutes, warm plates and garnish. Once golden arrange the duck on plates with onions and parsnip, finish with sauce and nasturtium, serve immediately.
ROASTED DUCK BREAST, PUMPKIN PUREE, OLIVE AND LIQUORICE From Joseph Vargetto Mezzo Bar and Grill, Melbourne "We use a lot of duck at Mezzo. Obviously the duck leg, we confit that or slow cook it, we do little croquettes, we do ragu. We buy the whole duck and use the bones to make sauces, the legs to do the braising and the breast grilled to medium, and the neck for sausages. All the trimmings and skins we render down to make our duck fat which adds a luxurious softness and moisture in your mouth when you use it. With this particular dish you have all the different textures and flavours that come together with the sweetness of the pumpkin puree. It’s one of the favourites at the restaurant.” Joseph Vargetto Serves 4 4 duck breast (180g), skin on
Duck poaching liquid 300g brown sugar 600g salt 3 litres water 2 cloves garlic 200ml Marsala 5g fennel seeds
Bring everything to the boil and then let it cool down. Place the duck breast into the brine for one hour. Rinse the duck and dry out duck breast on trays with paper towels in the fridge for five hours. Roast duck in oven preheated to 200C for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and slice into four and plate up. Duck stock 15kg duck bones 4 carrots 3 onions 3 celery sticks 1 bulb garlic 2kg tomatoes 1tblspn white peppercorns 15 star anise 4 bay leaf 2L port Brown bones until golden. Strain off fat. Caramelise mirepoix with peppercorns and star anise. Add tomatoes and cook down slowly. Add port and herbs. Reduce. Add bones, cover with water, bring to boil. Simmer slowly for six hours. Pass. Pumpkin puree 1 Jap pumpkin 250g butter 1 tbspn chestnut honey 1 tbspn sherry vinegar Salt and pepper Place a whole Jap pumpkin in the oven for two hours at 220C. Peel dark skin away, cut in half and remove all the seeds. Hang the flesh in a fine sift for 20 minutes. Place the pumpkin flesh in a blender with butter, maple syrup, vinegar and spices. Liquorice powder 15g ground star-anise 300g black olives, pitted 300g brown sugar 45g ground almonds Dry olives overnight at 80C. Sift almonds and sugar, dry for one hour at 80C, sift once more. Grind olives in grinder. Mix together Olives 100g green olives hospitality | july 2011
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poultry
Geraud Fabre’s Quail with Kipflers and Parsley.
Steven Choo’s Duck in Marsala and Orange.
Quickly saute the green olives in a little olive oil and cracked black pepper. Pumpkin seeds Cook the pumpkin seeds in hot oil until they puff up, stirring continuously. Season with salt. To assemble Spoon the pumpkin puree on the plate, add the sliced duck breast and gently sauce around. Sprinkle the liquorice around and position the green olives together with the pumpkin seeds.
BRAISED FREE RANGE DUCK IN MARSALA AND ORANGE, MUSHROOMS, SOFT POLENTA From Steven Choo Franco Choos, Prahran "As with all braises one of the most important things with this dish is to get that browning going to really get that flavour. It’s worth spending that extra few minutes on. Then make sure it’s cooked until it’s literally falling off the bone. I like the great flavour of duck, that slightly gamey flavour, and it’s not something that people cook often at home so when they go out they do like to try it. It sells very well. It’s a premium product though so I get the whole duck in and really make the most of it." Steven Choo 1 free range duck (about 2 kg) 3 tbspn vegetable oil 2 carrots, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 200ml sweet Marsala 2 oranges, zested and juiced 1/4 cup (loose packed) flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped 400g Swiss Brown mushrooms, sliced 26
hospitality | july 2011
2 tbspn salt Soft polenta, to serve. Rub salt all over duck. Heat one tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook duck on both sides, breast-side first, until fat renders and skin is golden brown. Remove duck (reserve fat) and place aside. Heat 30ml duck fat in a large pot over mediumhigh heat, add vegetables. Stir occasionally until caramelised (five to seven minutes). Add Marsala and deglaze pot, then add orange zest and juice and bay leaves. Add duck, top up with enough water to cover and put on lid. Cook over low heat, turning duck occasionally until tender and almost falling from the bone. Remove lid and set aside to rest for about 30 minutes. Remove duck from braising liquid and when cool enough to handle, coarsely shred meat (discard bones, skin and sinew) and set aside. Skim layer of fat, then strain braising liquid and return to pot on medium-high heat until reduced by about three quarters or until it becomes thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Meanwhile, fry mushrooms in remaining oil over medium heat. Add a tablespoon of water and continue frying until mushrooms are tender. Season to taste and set aside. Add meat back into sauce and season to taste. Stir through mushrooms and parsley and serve hot with soft polenta.
Kumar Mahadevan’s Quail Porichado.
110g Kipfler potatoes boiled in their skins until cooked, then cut into discs 3 generous pinches of chopped parsley 2 tbsp butter Fleur de sel Pepper Preheat oven to 200C. Melt the butter in a small frying pan. Add the sliced potatoes, toss to coat, season with salt and pepper and put in oven. Heat another pan, add a little vegetable oil, season the quail and put it in the pan skin-side down. When the skin has become nice and crisp with a good colour, turn it over and put it in the oven for a few minutes. Toss the potatoes again and return them to the stove. Sauté until they become golden and crispy. Add most of the chopped parsley, toss, check seasoning and put potatoes in a small dish. By this time the quail should be cooked. Take it out of the oven and place on top of potatoes. Garnish with the rest of the chopped parsley and serve.
QUAIL WITH KIPFLER AND PARSLEY
QUAIL PORICHADU
From Geraud Fabre France-Soir, South Yarra
From Kumar Mahadevan Aki's, Woolloomooloo
"Quail is such a versatile ingredient. It's 'meatier' than chicken and other poultry. It goes well with a huge variety of flavours, from berries and verjuice to grapes. It's preferable to be strong on the seasoning and better to be slightly undercooked rather than over. Focus on crisping up the skin and then worry about the cooking after that. It grills, and pan fries really well. It allows for a more sophisticated, delicate presentation as it's a 'pretty' poultry." Geraud Fabre
"Make sure you don’t overcook the quails with this dish. They need to be moist inside.” Kumar Mahadevan
1 quail, taken off carcass, end two joints of wings removed Marinate quail in olive oil, a little port and a spring of thyme overnight
4 butterflied quails 1 tbsp coriander powder 1 tspn cumin powder 1/2 tspn turmeric powder Juice of 1 lemon 1 tspn chilli powder 1 tspn garam masala powder 1 tbspn vegetable oil 1 tspn whole fennel seeds 20 curry leaves 1 tbspn ginger, crushed 1 tspn fresh garlic, minced hospitalitymagazine.com.au
poultry
“We always have a couple of poultry dishes inspired by produce from our suppliers Game Farm. Currently we have our signature Moroccan Spice Chicken Sandwich, a Homemade Spicy Chicken and Leek Pie, a Duck Confit and Glazed Quail with Spiced Apple and Ginger. Being a working kitchen, we always try to use all parts of the poultry." David Bitton.
David Bitton’s Glazed Quail with Apple and Ginger.
1 medium Spanish onion, sliced 2 whole dried chillies 1 potato, sliced Salt to taste Marinate the quails by rubbing the dry powdered spices with the lemon juice, crushed ginger and garlic. Set it aside for 20 minutes. Heat the oil in a pan and add the fennel seeds and the dried whole chillies. Cook till the tips of the chillies start turning black. Then, add the sliced Spanish onion and cook till golden brown. While the onions are being cooked, flash fry the sliced potato and keep ready. In this mixture, cook and seal the quails. Towards the end, add the curry leaves and fried potatoes and toss in the pan. To finish, cook in the oven for four to five minutes and serve. Garnish with some fried curry leaves and ginger julienne.
GLAZED QUAIL WITH STIR FRY APPLE & GINGER From David Bitton Bitton Café and Grocer, Alexandria
400g quail breasts 50ml Bitton Asian dressing 50ml Bitton chilli oil 4 green apples 3 passionfruit 1/2 bunch coriander, roughly chopped 50ml olive oil 1 tbspn ginger, finely chopped or grated Mustard cress to garnish Place the quail and the Asian dressing into a bowl and combine well. Set aside for 30 mins or longer. Peel, core and thinly slice the apples. Place them into a bowl and cover with water and a squeeze of lemon juice to prevent them from turning brown. Place a large frying pan over a high heat and add the chilli oil. Place the apples into the pan and cook, stirring for 30 seconds. Add the passionfruit pulp, coriander, salt and pepper and cook for a further 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and set aside. For the quail place a frying pan over a medium to high heat. Add the olive oil and ginger, sauté for 30 seconds. Add the quail and cook for one or two minutes on each side. To serve, divide the apple mixture in the middle of four large plates. Arrange quail breasts on top of each and drizzle over a little of the jus left in the pan. Garnish with mustard cress and serve with a green salad dressed with lemon dressing.
CHICKEN INVOLTINI From Johnny Di Francesco 400 Gradi, East Brunswick “This is a very simple dish but it’s very popular
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Johnny Di Francesco’s Chicken Involtini.
when we have it on the menu, and very good for functions. It has a unique flavour — it’s got the smokiness of the scamorza that goes very well with the chicken. And it’s nice and juicy — the chicken is kept moist because of the cheese and the fat of the prosciutto. We use organic chickens and just do very simple dishes. For the last few weeks we’ve had a chicken soup, a chicken stracciatella, on the menu., which is pretty much a chicken broth with chicken pieces with some egg added at the end. Johnny Di Francesco Serves one 1 chicken breast. 1 slice prosciutto 3 slices scamorza cheese Salt pepper Garlic Olive oil, sage leaves, red wine Butterfly the chicken breast. On one side of the chicken place the scamorza cheese and spread some sage leaves across the cheese. Roll the chicken tightly. Wrap the prosciutto around the chicken and tie with some string. Heat a pan and lightly saute garlic in olive oil. Place the chicken into the pan and cook evenly by turning frequently. Add some red wine and reduce a little. Place into hot oven to finish off cooking for five minutes. Slice and serve hot.
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hospitality | july 2011
27
Quality with numbers at Sails at Lavender Bay.
Crank up
THE VOLUME Catering for events small and large is a big opportunity for foodservice businesses but there’s growing pressure to produce something out of the ordinary. Rosemary Ryan spoke to three leaders in the field. hen top chef and restaurateur Fiona Wright began gathering the team together to pitch for the catering business of the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra 18 months ago there was little doubt she was aiming to do something very special when it came to the food and service she wanted to be able to offer. The pedigreed team included executive chef James Kidman, who had been heading up the kitchen at Sydney’s successful Otto Ristorante, and general manager, Michael Gray, the former manager and maitre d’ at Shannon Bennett’s celebrated fine diner Vue de Monde in Melbourne. Gray had previously worked with Wright at her restaurant Waters Edge which they took to two hat status. Last month Wright’s purpose built catering company Ten and a Half grabbed the Restaurant and Catering Australia’s Savour Awards for Excellence Award for Best Caterer in the ACT for its work at the National Gallery, where functions can range from a corporate lunch for ten to a spectacular function for 1200 guests at the brand new Gandel Hall. Ten and a Half is one of the new generation of caterers in Australia who are setting high benchmarks for event catering with a strategy of delivering fresh seasonal restaurant quality food and top level service whether they’re catering for a small lunch or
W
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hospitality | july 2011
or a major function. It’s a trend that’s in line with the expectations of today’s consumer, says Gray. “I think it certainly has changed when it comes to the focus on food by people. “People are so much more passionate about food and they put a huge emphasis on it in their lives. People know the difference between a good macaron and an average macaron and know what’s gone wrong. And this is something that is not going away and it’s driving choice when people are deciding where to hold special events in their lives. “Whether it’s for ten or 400 or 1200 people they are hoping for a really impactful food and wine experience.” “There’s a focus on freshness and bespoke menus — we’re finding people are less interested in choosing things from packages and more interested in giving us a brief and allowing us to put forward a proposal which is wonderful from my point of view because we are able to really show off our skills in putting something together for them. “Certainly I think the emphasis being placed on the food and wine experience is a major and very positive change [in catering] that has happened in the last five years and I don’t see that trend going away. If anything I see more prominence being put on those elements. “And that’s why Fiona Wright brought on someone who is famous for the quality of their food and who did not necessarily have
‘It’s little touches — what we like to call surprise and delight — things you do for guests that make it memorable.’
a track record in being able to hit timing benchmarks for big events on a major scale and all the kind of criteria you would usually bring into selecting a chef for this style of operation. The focus was very much on being able to bring that restaurant aesthetic to the food rather than looking for the banqueting safe option.” They’re sentiments shared by chef Glen Bacon who heads up the food operations at Hayman Island which last year was named Australia’s best caterer at the R&CA Savour Awards for Excellence. When Hospitality spoke to Bacon he was finalising menus and preparing for the reopening of the Queensland resort which sustained major damage during Cyclone Yasi earlier this year. The August relaunch will bring newly refurbished dining outlets and all new menus including those for events that take place in various sites around the resort from pool side to on the beach. Bacon says the Hayman events team works to exceed expectations for guests from the style and quality of the food to the service and smoothness of the operation. He says key to that is having a strong commitment to the product and attention to detail. “It’s a team effort, having everyone on the same wave length and determined to deliver a memorable experience,” he says. “It’s not just the chef, it’s the floor staff who are dealing with the guests, and it’s hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Quality with numbers at Sails at Lavender Bay.
Crank up
THE VOLUME Catering for events small and large is a big opportunity for foodservice businesses but there’s growing pressure to produce something out of the ordinary. Rosemary Ryan spoke to three leaders in the field. hen top chef and restaurateur Fiona Wright began gathering the team together to pitch for the catering business of the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra 18 months ago there was little doubt she was aiming to do something very special when it came to the food and service she wanted to be able to offer. The pedigreed team included executive chef James Kidman, who had been heading up the kitchen at Sydney’s successful Otto Ristorante, and general manager, Michael Gray, the former manager and maitre d’ at Shannon Bennett’s celebrated fine diner Vue de Monde in Melbourne. Gray had previously worked with Wright at her restaurant Waters Edge which they took to two hat status. Last month Wright’s purpose built catering company Ten and a Half grabbed the Restaurant and Catering Australia’s Savour Awards for Excellence Award for Best Caterer in the ACT for its work at the National Gallery, where functions can range from a corporate lunch for ten to a spectacular function for 1200 guests at the brand new Gandel Hall. Ten and a Half is one of the new generation of caterers in Australia who are setting high benchmarks for event catering with a strategy of delivering fresh seasonal restaurant quality food and top level service whether they’re catering for a small lunch or
W
28
hospitality | july 2011
or a major function. It’s a trend that’s in line with the expectations of today’s consumer, says Gray. “I think it certainly has changed when it comes to the focus on food by people. “People are so much more passionate about food and they put a huge emphasis on it in their lives. People know the difference between a good macaron and an average macaron and know what’s gone wrong. And this is something that is not going away and it’s driving choice when people are deciding where to hold special events in their lives. “Whether it’s for ten or 400 or 1200 people they are hoping for a really impactful food and wine experience.” Gray says along with a focus on the freshness of food people are also looking for bespoke menus for their event. “We’re finding people are less interested in choosing things from packages and more interested in giving us a brief and allowing us to put forward a proposal which is wonderful from my point of view because we are able to really show off our skills in putting something together for them, he says.. “Certainly I think the emphasis being placed on the food and wine experience is a major and very positive change [in catering] that’s happened in the last five years and I don’t see that going away. If anything I see more prominence being put on those elements. And that’s why Fiona [Wright] brought on someone more famous for the
‘It’s little touches — what we like to call surprise and delight — things you do for guests that make it memorable.’
quality of their food but who maybe didn’t necessarily have a track record in hitting timing benchmarks for big events and all the kind of criteria you’d usually bring into selecting a chef for this style of operation. The focus was on being able to bring that restaurant aesthetic to the food rather than looking for the banqueting safe option.” They’re sentiments shared by chef Glenn Bacon, who heads up the food operations at Hayman Island which last year was named Australia’s best caterer at the Restaurant and Catering’s Savour Awards for Excellence. When Hospitality spoke to Bacon he was finalising menus and preparing for the reopening of the Queensland resort which sustained major damage during Cyclone Yasi earlier this year. The August relaunch will bring newly refurbished dining outlets and all new menus including those for the large number of events that take place in various sites around the resort from pool side to on the beach. Bacon says the Hayman events team works to exceed expectations for guests from the style and quality of the food to the service and smoothness of the operation. He says key to that is having a strong commitment to the product and attention to detail. “It’s a team effort, having everyone on the same wave length and determined to deliver a memorable experience,” he says. “It’s not just the chef, it’s the floor staff who are dealing with the guests, and it’s hospitalitymagazine.com.au
eventplanning
Simple and elegant at Sails.
little touches, what we like to call on the island the ‘surprise and delight’, little things you do for your guests that make it memorable.” Bacon said the focus for the menu is fresh and seasonal as well as touches of theatre thrown in. “One of the things that’s popular is having stations where people can graze around, combining some butler service with little stations where chefs are preparing dishes, carving stations where chefs are slicing up beautifully cooked wagyu or rump, or pasta stations where chefs are preparing pasta with fresh seafood, or an oyster bar, and an affogato station where baristas are pouring espresso shots and guests can select their favourite liqueur.” “People like it because it’s really getting away from the way people remember it — the way it used to be with canapes coming out of the dark somewhere. They get to interact with the chefs and see the freshness of the food.” Diners’ desire for restaurant quality food and top level service is working in the favour of chef and restaurateur Greg Anderson whose Sails on Lavender Bay restaurant in Sydney is hugely popular for events, particularly weddings. “We probably do around 25 weddings a year in the wedding seasons,” Anderson says. “It’s very good for our business — they are very profitable. We have to do 30
hospitality | july 2011
it for the business, to be able to provide the great location and the food and service to our regular guests we need to supplement our income with our function business.” As well as good food and service, Anderson says one of the keys to his strategy for success has been that he doesn’t charge extra for weddings. “It’s something that people are very suspicious of with weddings. They know that in some places as soon as the word wedding is mentioned the price goes up. We don’t do that – our prices don’t change. “The thing is there is a big difference between a wedding for 100 and doing normal service for 100 people — spending per head for a wedding is higher because it’s a celebratory thing — they will drink more wine, they will say lets have a tequila afterwards so that’s why we don’t need to charge extra.” Anderson says a bonus of events is the marketing benefits it can deliver as well. “We often find we have people who have come for a wedding or a function who will have loved it so much, and loved the food and had such a great experience that they will come back just on a regular night,” he says. “Out of those 100 guests you might have only five per cent who’ve been to the restaurant before...so if we do the very best food and service for a wedding then we are going to get extra customers.” hospitalitymagazine.com.au
eventplanning
Simple and elegant at Sails.
little touches, what we like to call on the island the ‘surprise and delight’, little things you do for your guests that make it memorable.” Bacon said the focus for the menu is fresh and seasonal as well as touches of theatre thrown in. “One of the things that’s popular is having stations where people can graze around, combining some butler service with little stations where chefs are preparing dishes, carving stations where chefs are slicing up beautifully cooked wagyu or rump, or pasta stations where chefs are preparing pasta with fresh seafood, or an oyster bar, and an affogato station where baristas are pouring espresso shots and guests can select their favourite liqueur.” “People like it because it’s really getting away from the way people remember it — the way it used to be with canapes coming out of the dark somewhere. They get to interact with the chefs and see the freshness of the food.” Diners’ desire for restaurant quality food and top level service is working in the favour of chef and restaurateur Greg Anderson whose Sails on Lavender Bay restaurant in Sydney is hugely popular for events, particularly weddings. “We probably do around 25 weddings a year in the wedding seasons,” Anderson says. “It’s very good for our business — they are very profitable. We have to do 30
hospitality | july 2011
it for the business. To be able to provide the great location and the food and service to our regular guests we need to supplement our income with our function business.” As well as good food and service, Anderson says one of the keys to his strategy for success has been that he doesn’t charge extra for weddings. “It’s something that people are very suspicious of with weddings. They know that in some places as soon as the word ‘wedding’ is mentioned the price goes up. We don’t do that – our prices don’t change. “The thing is there is a big difference between a wedding for 100 and doing normal service for 100 people — spending per head for a wedding is higher because it’s a celebratory thing. They will drink more wine, they will say lets have a tequila afterwards so that’s why we don’t need to charge extra.” Anderson says a bonus of events is the marketing benefits it can deliver as well. “We often find we have people who have come for a wedding or a function who will have loved it so much, and loved the food and had such a great experience that they will come back just on a regular night,” he says. “Out of those 100 guests you might have only five per cent who’ve been to the restaurant before...so if we do the very best food and service for a wedding then we are going to get extra customers.” hospitalitymagazine.com.au
management
Attention to detail is the key to profitable events Are you equipped to make the most of the opportunities that events might be able to offer your business? Here are Ken Burgin’s essential tips for meeting the expectations of your customers.
‘Large four and five star hotels own much of this corporate market, not because they care more but because they are sticklers for detail.’
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
FUNCTIONS can be great business, and should be very profitable, no matter what size your venue. Numbers and costs are known in advance and you get to serve large numbers at a fixed price. But a lot can go wrong, so efficient systems are essential. Don’t let staff frustrate potential customers. There are many different types of clients, from anxious brides (and their parents), to community socials, birthday parties and celebrations. Then there are corporate clients, who have even less tolerance for error and disorganisation. They also spend considerably more money. In a recent conversation with a corporate personal assistant her list of ‘pet hates’ had an all-too-familiar ring. They ranged from having too many points of contact and being “hand-balled” to different staff members, to anything being dirty, and background noise from a kitchen (see the box for the full list). These sins can be easily avoided so check your systems to see what can be improved. Large four and five star hotels own much of this corporate market, not because they care more but because they are sticklers for detail. There’s no reason why you can’t grab a bigger slice of this lucrative market too. If you want to audit the process from start to finish, roll out some paper along a table (about two metres long) and start from the left, writing in all the steps from the first phone call or email through to the 'morning after'. This is another example of the 'Cycle of Service' and is a great way to see all the steps in the process. Gather up examples of the function diaries, confirmation letters, template forms, post-it notes, invoices etc, and place them in the sequence that you use them. How does it look? Is your Cycle of Service clear and complete, or missing some important steps? Is there unnecessary duplication, or perhaps badly designed forms that are hard to read or understand? Here’s a ‘quick-fix’ list of items to improve your performance: 1 Have a one-page version of your
PA’s pet hates Here’s a list of a typical personal assistants’ pet hates when it comes to booking an event with a caterer. Recognise any? • Numerous points of contact. • Being 'hand-balled' to different staff members to get answers. • Having to chase the venue for details. • People not following up on commitments. • Technical hitches with AV equipment. • Confusion over parking. • Background noise from the kitchen. • Unclear or incomplete agreements. • Dirty anything: washrooms/floors/table linen/crockery/cutlery • Debiting credit cards but not providing invoices. • No perceived care or concern for the event.
function menus widely available — online, at the counter and in function rooms. Also mention your function offering on your regular menu. How many people even know you offer catering or special services? Make sure you tell them. 2 Fast responses get the booking. Everyone wants it ‘yesterday’. You have 60 minutes to respond with your packages and booking details. Have PDF menus ready to email (or fax), standard email replies ready to send, and standard replies to common requests, as well as a list of those Frequently Asked Questions. 3 Tighten up your initial responses. That includes replying to inquiries, sending out information, speedy quotes, follow up calls and facility tours. Many bookings are lost at this early stage. Measure your bookings to inquiries percentage — your “strike rate”. How’s it looking? 4 Facilities are always ready for inspection. There’s nothing worse than being shown a function room that doubles as a store room. Have at least part of the room set, and gather up past photos into an impressive album — on an iPad, in a book, and also online. 5 Special tactics for peak season. If you can’t keep up with requests, have a form ready for customers to complete, providing the required information including numbers, menu style, dates, special needs and so on. Email this so they can return it, or put it online. This way you avoid getting bogged down on the phone with minor details. Wufoo.com is a
great service for creating online forms with email notification. 6 Only one staff member talks about prices. Everyone wants to negotiate, and a slip of the tongue by an untrained person can cause problems. Train your staff how to take the initial inquiries — have a standard form for them to work to. Then your follow-up call or email will handle the details. 7 Cost, cost, cost. When you know the profit you’re making, you won’t be under-charging or penny-pinching with details, and you will handle the inevitable discount request with much more confidence. 8 Every booking has a signed agreement. Period. Too much money is lost unnecessarily through no-shows or cancellations. Your agreement will be friendly, but is very clear about dates for final numbers, deposits and payments — call it a Health and Safety requirement if need be (and your agreement should mention some of those issues as well, for example, responsible service of alcohol). 9 Keep in touch, even if the inquirer doesn’t make a booking. If they say no, it may mean ‘not now’ rather than ‘no never’. Party organisers and the office person with responsibilities for bookings are highly valuable contacts. A regular follow-up email will produce results at a later stage. Ken Burgin is a leading hospitality industry consultant. To find out more visit profitablehospitality.com or call 1800 001 353. hospitality | july 2011
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management
doctorhospitality
Time for foodservice optimism It’s time the Aussie foodservice business took its future by the
The sommelier is asking me to pay for attendance at wine conferences and events. Is this reasonable? There are precious few standards for this prestigious position. But if you want to put one person in charge of the cellar, there are a lot of other tasks that they should be doing very well. They include thorough staff training, accurate and helpful descriptions on the wine list, stock control and turnover (compare the cost of weekly sales to the total value you hold) and supplier negotiation. When these are all handled to your satisfaction, industry events can be an appropriate reward, maybe with you tagging along to also learn more. The new apprentice is way too slow. We’ve tried to make it work for more than six months but it’s got to stop. I feel terrible about it. Can you help? This person is affecting everyone’s morale and costing a lot of money. Chances are they also feel bad about it. Remember the old saying ‘slow to hire and quick to fire’. Document the standards that need to be met — how much prep they should do in an hour, what tasks they should carry out without assistance — and compare it with what they do now. Talk to your industry association and follow their guidance. Your other staff will absolutely understand and thank you for it. I’m the new food and beverage manager at a club where I’ve discovered my staff are very set in their ways. Where do I start? First you’ll have to create a sense of urgency, and have a clear picture about what needs to be changed. You’ve inherited a ‘B Team’ — the steady ones who turn up every day and keep the doors open. Start to gather suggestions from them, and share the figures, especially those that show the business’s weakness. Relate it back to the change agenda. You also need to introduce measurable standards. So it’s not just “work faster” but “each person needs to be able to manage ten tables instead of eight”, or “we need to have all rooms ready by 10am, not 11am”. There may be staff changes, but try not to lose the mainstays of your business. Skills can be taught and speed increased, but good attitude is hard to find. We’re thinking of taking over the bookshop next door and combining it with our café. Do you think this is a good idea? Are you crazy? The book trade is going through dramatic changes, with large and small shops closing all the time. Bookshops need skilled management to be profitable, and a large amount of stock and working capital. They’re also very popular with shoplifters. Here’s another idea. Why not create a bookshop ‘atmosphere’ with shelves full of quality second-hand books that people can borrow or admire. It’s easy to create a quaint atmosphere and it makes a real point of difference.
Do you have a burning question for the good doctor? We’d love to hear from you. Send it to him via Hospitality’s editor by emailing rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au
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horns — and started charging more, says Tony Berry. OH DEAR, how predictable it all is. Gloom, doom, bucket loads of pessimism and inevitable predictions of bankruptcies, failures and the end of life as we know it. It must be hell working for Restaurant & Catering Australia (R&CA). Perhaps its walls are painted black and its windows permanently darkened. How else can one explain the negative line that unfailingly runs through all its pronouncements? Naturally it was at its gloomiest best with the recent national wage increase. It would be another nail in the industry’s coffin, pronounced R&CA chief executive John Hart. Business closures, staff lay-offs and lack of profitability were obligatory add-ons to Mr Hart’s doom-laden statement. All of which seems on the face of things at odds with regular reports of industry growth and the rapid addition of new foodservice outlets up and down the country. The vast expansion of foodservice outlets at Westfield Sydney is an example of the way the sector is going gangbusters. This isn’t some grotty suburban food court but a so-called food atrium with big name chefs and price tags to match. Star City at Pyrmont is treading a similar trail with its soon-to-be-opened fine dining precinct. These aren’t tiny projects from those optimists whose friends tell them they should open a restaurant on the basis of the “divine” prawn risotto and “awesome” lemon cheesecake. They’re multi-million dollar ventures based on market research and projections of future trends. They would (or should) have taken into account increases in the cost of products and services and factored in the wage rises that everyone knew were on the horizon. This suggests optimism rather than the pessimism and long-term confidence. There is, of course, a downside to this view as the R&CA will be quick to inform anyone prepared to listen. It’s the picture painted in its press release earlier this year that was snapped up by unquestioning media outlets which, as we know, always prefer bad news to good. In one metro newspaper I saw it was used as a round about attempt to soften diners up for a rise in menu prices and to explain why three Hobart restaurants were for sale, two of them without including any goodwill. There was no questioning of whether there might other factors behind the owners’ decisions to sell. It was, following the R&CA line, simply a matter of rising wages and too cheap meals. This ignores a recent American Express survey finding that more than two-thirds of Australians would be willing to pay more for the pleasure of dining out. The answer lies not in gnashing teeth and wailing, but in finding solutions and boxing clever. Or, to continue the pugilistic analogy, to take it on the chin and come out fighting. What’s so fearful about demanding more for what is on the plate? Study the fashion pages and see the prices the women in your life will pay for a flimsy bit of cloth. Note how much they pay for the scraps of leather on their feet. Check out the baubles dangling over their plate. Every item costs much more than anything you are asking for the food you set before them. Look at the guys, too, and tot up what they would have paid to fit themselves out. Think, too, of your customers’ home lives — of the computers, TV, cameras, recorders, stereos and the like for which they think nothing of paying thousands of dollars. Australia is a consumer-ridden, materialistic society, with a huge tendency to spend rather than save. The must-have mentality applies throughout retail. So why should foodservice be any different? For too long we’ve allowed an attitude to exist that shows little appreciation of the ingredients and work that go into creating a restaurant meal. This applies at all levels and also ignores the added costs of providing tableware, cutlery and staff to create the meal and bring it to the table. While massive boosters for the industry such as MasterChef, the growing cohort of telly chefs and the plethora of cookbook writers have had immense positive benefits, they all fail to highlight the cost factor. It’s time this changed. They’re as much a part of the industry as the high street cafes, neighbourhood BYOs and our fine dining outlets. Come on, everyone, spread the word: no more cheap eats otherwise none of us will survive. For many years known to Hospitality readers by his nom de plume E S Scoffer, Tony Berry is a former editor of this magazine and has also been a travel editor, restaurant reviewer, chef and restaurateur. He’s also the world's fourth fastest half-marathoner for all time in his current age group. hospitalitymagazine.com.au
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1 Crowntuff gets tougher. Crown Commercial has created its best-selling Conical and Washington beer glasses in Crowntuff fully-toughened glass. After having originally designed and released the Conical and Washington glasses to the market back in the 1900s, Crown’s new options are also Weights and Measures approved, each in 200ml, 285ml and 425ml sizes. Headmaster nucleated options are also available in the 285ml and 425ml sizes for both styles. Just like the other Crowntuff options, the new products are four to six times stronger than regular glass for less breakages and lowered ongoing replacement costs, and also resist thermal shock. See crowncommercial.com.au 2 Byron coffee roaster adds syrups. Byron Bay coffee roaster Bun Coffee has unveiled its own range of branded syrups in four flavours — Caramel, Vanilla, Hazelnut and Chai — to complement its coffee products. Bun Coffee currently offers seven premium coffee blends as well as
hospitalitymagazine.com.au
organic teas and organic drinking chocolate. Find out more about Bun Coffee’s range at buncoffee.com.au 3 Saccaria coffee comes to Australia. The name Saccaria coffee may not be familiar to Australians but chances are you’ll be hearing a lot more about it in the future. Saccaria, which originated in Senigallia, Italy in 1882 is now available in Australia in three styles — Argento, Superiore and Prestige. See saccaria.com.au or phone Ross Francesca on 08 9314 3817 for a free tasting. 4 Putting the (easier) squeeze on garlic. The humble garlic press has been given a designer makeover with award-winning results. Kuhn Rikon’s Easy Squeeze Garlic Press was designed by renowned Swiss designer, Phillip Beyeler, in an attempt to produce a tool that’s easy to use and clean. The Easy Squeeze was awarded the German Design Plus Award that recognises the combination of outstanding aesthetics and functionality internationally and voted best performing garlic press
by Cook’s Illustrated in the US. Featuring high quality ergonomically curved handles and stainless steel sieve the product requires 60 per cent less effort to use than other presses, according to Kuhn Rikon. More information contact VGM on 1800 650 601. 5 Super auto coffee machines. Global Coffee Solutions has launched the latest technology in super automatic coffee machines with the unveiling of its Melitta c35. Backed by the national service network at GCS, the Melitta c35 boasts a modern design with touchscreen colour display enabling you to serve customer specific coffee/milk variations — from espresso to cappuccino and caffè lattè, or even a decaffeinated base coffee. Based on the Cafina Alpha super-automatic coffee machine, the new Melitta combines new technology and simple handling with the smallest possible footprint and is able to serve up to 200 cups per hour of consistent café style coffee. For more information head to globalcoffee.com.au
6 Pacific West adds MSC certified products. Frozen seafood supplier Pacific West has become the first supplier to offer Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certified tempura hake products to foodservice providers in Australia. To be sold under the new Sustainable Harvest brand, the product uses fish sourced from the MSC certified hake fishery in South Africa. The products will bear the MSC blue ecolabel. Pacific West product manager Neil Cane said tempura fish is one of the flagship products for Pacific West. “Our customers can be assured that the new MSC certified tempura hake products are the same premium quality as before, the only difference being that now we can together begin to meet the growing consumer demand for sustainably sourced seafood in Australia, and can play a positive role in protecting seafood for the future.” For more head to sustainableharvest.com.au.
Got a new product? Send your information and images to rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au
hospitality | july 2011
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what’s on
hospitalitydiary recognise the best in the business. See barshow.com.au
JULY 21-24 Hotel + Hospitality Furnishings; Melbourne Exhibition Centre. Part of the annual Furnitex, this show features the latest in furniture designs, fabrics and finishes from local and international manufacturers. See furnitex.com.au
12-16 Australian HACCP Conference; RACV Royal Pines Resort, Gold Coast, Queensland. The Australian HACCP Conference is the premier discussion forum for food industry professionals involved in food safety. This year's conference will cover topics including building a food safety culture in the workplace, emerging food safety hazards, managing food safety disasters and food safety and consumer concerns. See haccptown.com.au
SEPTEMBER 5-8 Fine Food Australia 2011; Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre. Fine Food Australia is the country's largest gathering of international food, drink and equipment for the retail, foodservice and hospitality industries. See: finefoodaustralia.com.au 11-13 Food, Hotel & Hospitality Arabia; Riyadh Convention & Exhibition Centre, Saudi Arabia. Saudi Arabia's only business to business exhibition dedicated to the hotel, hospitality and catering sector. Find out more at fhh-arabia.com
Continued from page 10 In some circumstances businesses may decide to close over a period that attracts higher labour costs such as public holidays or periods where it is not commercially viable to trade. In these circumstances, staff need to be consulted in respect to the temporary closure period.
OCTOBER
11-14 Sydney BarShow Week; Hordern Pavilion, Moore Park, Sydney. The premier event for the business of bars with exhibitors, seminars, demonstrations and awards to
Modern Awards also provide for employers to give four weeks notice requiring employees to take their accrued annual leave entitlements during a part of close down of its business operations. In making business changes that may include significant restructure or redundancies, employers will
27-29 Hotel, Hospitality & Food Sri Lanka; Sri Lanka Exhibition and Convention Centre Colombo. A new exhibition catering for the growing demands of hotel and restaurant supplies in the hospitality and tourism industry in Sri Lanka and South Asia. To find out more see hhf-srilanka.com.
need to be fully aware of the legislative requirements relating to the implementation of that change, especially relating to redundancies. Where a redundancy is not considered genuine, or reasonable redeployment is not offered where available, the employer may be exposed to a claim of unfair dismissal
and large penalties. This article was written by the Workplace Relations Team at Restaurant & Catering Australia. For more information you can contact the workplace relations team on 1300 722 878.
P R O D U C T S 34
hospitality | july 2011
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Drive profits and create savings for your business by discovering new and innovative foodservice and hospitality products at Fine Food Australia, the largest food industry event in the country. Featuring over 1,000 exhibitors, this is your opportunity to meet face-to-face with thousands of industry specialists and take advantage of special trade deals.
For FREE entry, register online before 30 August 2011 at www.finefoodaustralia.com.au and enter priority code: HOSP $30 admission applies at the door for visitors that don’t pre-register online.
5 – 8 SEPTEMBER 2011 SYDNEY CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE www.finefoodaustralia.com.au
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