Hospitality Magazine June 2012 by Hospitality Magazine

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No.684 June 2012

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foodservice

Meaty issues Winter menu ideas for pork, lamb and beef from 7 top chefs

Plating up Latest crockery arrivals for your tables

accommodation

beverage

management

Review Our diner “ducks” in to Esposito

Singular focus McLaren Vale winemakers celebrate a unique region

Wages warning Get wages under control or risk penalties

The Spanish conquerer MoVida’s Frank Camorra gets set to take on Sydney

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had particular resonance for the industry coming just weeks before the government’s new carbon tax scheme comes into force, a time when all businesses need to take a hard look at how efficiently their buisnesses are being run. On the panel with Mcindoe, were two other experts on the topic of sustainability – Kevin Gulliver, the F&B director of the Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, which has achieved great things in its goals to operate more sustainably, and Ben Pearson of the AVANA Group who specialises in advising hospitality businesses on gaining efficiencies in the big three – water, gas and power. One of the things Pearson said that hit home and got a

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Editor’s Note

EDITOR Rosemary Ryan Ph: (02) 9422 2880 rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au JOURNALIST Danielle Bowling Ph: (02) 9422 2667 danielle.bowling@reedbusiness.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Christine Salins Ken Burgin Tony Berry ADVERTISING NATIONAL Rhonnie Merry Ph: (02) 9422 2481 Fax: (02) 9422 2863 rhonnie.merry@reedbusiness.com.au

friendly path with produce, Mcindoe also takes a hardnosed business approach to the idea of sustainability in ways that have a direct benefit to the efficiency of his business. This is about having a clear understanding of how much water, power and gas your business is using, and how much waste it’s generating, and using the information to reduce the use, and the cost. And that was the issue up for discussion at the seminar “Can I be sustainable and profitable?” It was one that

DO YOU know how much power your char-grill uses? That was a question Sydney restaurateur Craig Mcindoe asked the audience at a panel discussion at last month’s Foodservice Australia. Mcindoe, who operates MuMu Grill in Crows Nest, is a champion of sustainable practices in foodservice. He operates his business with a philosophy of sourcing produce that has the least impact on the environment, including using only grass fed beef. But as well as following this environmentally

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4 News

14 Imbibe

Minimum wage adds more pressure to hospitality. Business tips from chefs. Don’t ignore social media.

McLaren Vale winemakers celebrate unique terroir of their region.

16 Hospitality chef 8 Workplace

Frank Camorra prepares to make his Sydney debut.

Ignore correct wage payment at your peril.

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Maurice Esposito wins praise for his duck deg.

The essential skills needed by today’s successful managers.

12 Secret ingredients

36 Dr Hospitality

Q&A with Spring chef Kym Machin.

Increasing prices, online rectruitment and wi-fi.

Meaty issues Winter menu ideas for pork, lamb and beef from 7 top chefs

Plating up Latest crockery arrivals for your tables

accommodation

beverage

management

Review Our diner “ducks” in to Esposito

Singular focus McLaren Vale winemakers celebrate a unique region

Wages warning Get wages under control or risk penalties

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20 Packaging What does the packaging heading out your door say about your business?

22 Meaty issues As the temperature drops we present some warming meaty winter menu ideas from seven top chefs.

31 Plating up An injection of colour arrives with the latest newcomers in crockery for your tables.

ON THE COVER:

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few heads nodding was the idea of replacing the word ‘sustainable’ with ‘efficient’ when thinking about the topic. While the word ‘sustainable’ might still have connotations of tree hugging hippies for some, who doesn’t want their business to be more efficient? Which comes back to Mcindoe’s char-grill question. He was pressing the point about the importance of being aware of how much power appliances use. There’s lots of help out there for businesses who want to become more efficient. The carbon tax makes it vital to grab that help with both hands.

The Spanish conquerer MoVida’s Frank Camorra gets set to take on Sydney

ON THE cover for June is a bite sized dish from one of Melbourne’s most admired and successful chefs and restaurateurs, Frank Camorra, who we profile in this issue. As Camorra gets set to bring his successful MoVida brand of restaurants to Sydney for the first time, Danielle Bowling spoke to the dynamic chef about his achievements so far and his plans for the future. The restaurateur with what seems like the magic touch for creating the style of restaurants and eateries that

people love to go to, reveals that when he opened the first MoVida 11 years ago his main goal was just to get bums on seats. Even he did not predict how successful the MoVida model would be and how it would grow to today’s group of businesses, each a little different from the others. As well as talking about some of the secrets for business success Camorra shares the recipe for one of his delicious dishes, his Bocadillo de Calamares. Head to the feature starting on page 16 to check it out.

hospitality | june 2012

news

Restaurants

Top chefs give tips for success In a challenging business like running a restaurant watching costs and getting good advice is crucial. That was the message at the Tasting Australia festival. LEARN accounting, and become obsessed with your bottomline. That was the message from Melbourne’s Adrian Richardson when he took to the stage recently as one of a panel of top Australian chefs and restaurateurs. Richardson, who’s run La Luna Restaurant in Melbourne for 14 years, said that if there was one thing he’s learnt, it’s that anyone planning to go into the restaurant business should also study accounting. “You need to check everything, sign off on everything, you need to be vigilant and on top of it all the time,” he said at the industry event organised by Restaurant and Catering South Australia, as part of the Tasting Australia festival. He was joined by Sydney chefs Jeremy Strode and Matt Kemp, and Adelaide chef Camillo Crugnale. Richardson told the audience that by being aware of his restaurant’s bottom line, he knows that somewhere between Friday and Sunday, he will break even. “Hopefully it’s Friday lunchtime but it might be Sunday, and you have to know where that point is.” Camillo Crugnale, owner of Assaggio Ristorante and Assaggio Café in Adelaide, says he would never

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MOST READ STORIES Top five food and drink trends for 2012 Which are Australia’s top 50 hottest restaurants? Minimum wage increase blow Taj seeks Melbourne hotel site Record occupancy predicted for hotels

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hospitality | june 2012

Camillo Crugnale (left), MC John Lethlean, Jeremy Strode, Matt Kemp and Adrian Richardson.

have been so successful if he hadn’t had outside professional help “Get an accountant who properly understands the business,” he said. “A lot of it comes from costing the drinks properly, and the food. Work out what you’re going to do ahead of time.” The trend towards casualisation is one that would continue, the chefs said. Richardson says today’s diners want to spend less. “That’s why it’s good having the word ‘bistro’ in the name. They’re more eating houses [than restaurants]...I think that’s where the market’s going.” On ways to boost takings, Crug-

nale said he offers incentives to staff. “Once a month, whoever sells the most spirits gets a gift. We do it for wines, and we do it for sides and desserts as well. We’ve been doing it for two and a half years and it’s good to see 19 and 20-year-olds getting in there, learning their wines.” Richardson says a successful move for La Luna recently was the introduction of $12.50 cocktails, “just a few simple ones” offered to diners at the start of the evening. “Everyone orders one. People are enthused by the booze and they love it,” he said. By Christine Salins.

$10,000 in an hour ROYAL Canberra Golf Club executive chef Neil Abrahams has earned himself $10,000 for an hour’s work by out cooking his fellow competitors at CHEF 2012. Abrahams was named the winner of this year’s running of the annual high pressure event that challenges individual chefs to use ingredients from a mystery box in the creation of three different dishes for the judges in an hour, all live in the kitchens on the show floor. The chef, who says his long experience on the Australian Culinary team helped him when he competed at the event at the Foodservice Australia trade show in Sydney, beat off the competitors that included the likes of defending champion Nicolas Poelaert from Melbourne’s Embrasse restaurant. With his $10,000 cheque firmly under his arm at the presentation, Abrahams said he was initially a little taken aback when he opened his mystery box to reveal the ingredients he had to use in each dish hoki, Jerusalem artichokes, spinach, and samphire. “I hadn’t used samphire a lot, maybe three or four times,” he said. “It’s a tough competition,” said Abrahams. “You have to come up with three dishes in one hour and you’re doing that for 12 people, and with the judges standing over you. It’s pretty full on.”

Social media a giant that restaurants can’t ignore RESTAURATEURS need to recognise and resolve issues with diners immediately or risk their patrons’ bad experiences spreading through social media even before they’ve headed out the restaurant’s door. That’s the advice from Restaurant and Catering Australia (RCA) following new research that reveals almost a quarter of bad dining experiences are communicated on social media by the diner within a minute or two of leaving the restaurant, if not while they are still seated at the table. The national survey of Australian diners conducted by Galaxy Research for American Express, found

a third of Australians use social media to rate their dining experience. Of all diners it’s the Gen Ys who are most likely to jump online to share their experience (40 per cent), compared to Generation X (26 per cent) and Baby Boomers (19 per cent). But it’s not only bad experiences that get talked about - the majority (60 per cent) of diners are as likely to rate a good dining experience as they are a bad one. RCA chief executive officer John Hart said social media has turned everyone into a potential critic and is something that can’t be ignored by restaurants. “Social media continues to grow in popularity among

the community and restaurateurs, and a growing number of restaurateurs are embracing the ability to communicate with customers on a new level,” he said. “The prevalence of smart phones and increasing ease with which diners can congratulate or condemn their dining experience means the power of social media is the sleeping giant that cannot be ignored.” The research found almost all (87 per cent) bad dining experiences are shared online within a week, with three-quarters made within a day. “The implication for restaurateurs is that they need to resolve problems immediately,” Hart said. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

news

Wages

Minimum wage rise a blow at time of record business insolvencies Pressure on the hospitality industry grows with minimum wage cost rise. FAIR WORK AUSTRALIA has been sharply criticised by sectors of the hospitality industry for its decision to lift the minimum wage by 2.9 per cent at a time of record insolvencies and when businesses are straining under cost pressures. Restaurant and Catering Australia (R&CA) chief executive officer John Hart said the decision “failed to accept that there is a two speed economy in Australia”. “The decision to once again apply a once size fits all increase... will have a debilitating impact on sectors that are not benefiting from the resources boom,” Hart said. “Despite submissions from R&CA citing evidence of record insolvencies and business related bankruptcies, the Fair Work Australia Minimum Wage Panel believes this is not systemic across all industries to justify any deferral of wage increases.”

The Accommodation Association of Australia (AAA) said the decision was another example of businesses in the tourism industry being subjected to higher costs. “It’s well documented that broadly speaking, trading conditions for tourism businesses are far more difficult than other industries,” said AAA chief executive officer Richard Munro. “This was highlighted in our submission as one of the reasons why the increase in the minimum wage should have been capped at 2.25 per cent,” he said. “Given labour is one of the highest costs for tourism accommodation businesses, the decision makes doing business even tougher than it already is. “On top of this increase, the accommodation industry is struggling to quantify the financial impact of the introduction of the

carbon tax. Our industry is also in line to be penalised by the increase in the Passenger Movement Charge.” The Australian Hotels Association (AHA) said the decision to increase award wages by almost double the CPI rate would have a disproportionate impact on the hospitality market and lead to possible job cuts. AHA national chief executive Des Crowe said the majority of hotels are faced with flat or declining trade and would be forced to consider reductions in working hours as a result of the increase. “Last year’s significant increase resulted in a 7.8 per cent reduction in working hours available in our industry,” Crowe said. “For businesses in the fast lane of the two speed economy this increase is manageable but for most hotels it will be cause for serious concern.”

World’s best cook Best Dinner in the World Australia’s Michelin starred chef David Thompson was snapped in this picture in the midst of the Berardo’s kitchen action during service at the Best Dinner in the World, one of the key events at this year’s Noosa International Food & Wine Festival. Thompson, whose second outpost of Nahm in Bangkok has just been included on The World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, joined other acclaimed Australian and international chefs whose venues are also on the list, including Mark Best, Fergus Henderson, Ben Shewry and Davide Scabin, to prepare a seven course degustation menu for more than 100 diners. Wines were expertly matched by esteemed US wine critic Lisa Perrotti-Brown. Festival director chef and restaurateur Jim Berardo said the festival was now recognised as one of the world’s best and had provided an enormous economic boost for the Queensland region. “It is now firmly established on the world foodie map,” he said.

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in brief Esquire named QLD best Cameron Murchison and Ryan Squires’ Brisbane restaurant Esquire has grabbed the top award at the inaugural Queensland Good Food Guide Awards - and three hats. The restaurant that opened last July was named Restaurant of the Year at the awards and also became the state’s first - and only - three hat restaurant. Ex-Urbane and now Spring chef, Kym Machin, was named Chef of the Year.

Aussie EVOO false claims Regulation surrounding the labelling of olive oils has once again been thrown into the spotlight, with a South Australian producer, The Big Olive Company, being fined $13,200 for incorrectly labelling its olive oil as extra virgin. The Big Olives’ infringement notices came after the Australian Olive Association received complaints that a number of oils being sold in Australia as extra virgin olive oils are in fact of a lesser quality.

Toothfish makes six Aussie certified fisheries The Macquarie Island toothfish fishery is the latest Australian fishery to obtain Marine Stewardship Council sustainable certification after completing the long and rigorous assessment procedures. It’s the second Australian toothfish fishery to achieve MSC certification, with the Heard and McDonald Islands toothfish fishery also gaining certification in March this year. It takes to six the number of certified fisheries in Australia including the Spencer Gulf king prawn fishery, the WA rock lobster fishery, the Lakes and Coorong fishery (mullet; golden perch, mulloway and mussels).

Our next webinar Don’t miss the next in Hospitality magazine’s free webinars that we’re offering our readers in conjunction with leading industry consultant Ken Burgin. Happening on June 19, the topic is ‘Great photography and how you can make it work for your hospitality business’. Head to hospitalitymagazine.com.au or profitablehospitality.com.au to register.

hospitality | june 2012

openings

4Fourteen With this new venture, owners Colin Fassnidge, Joe Saleh and Carla Jones of Paddington’s Four in Hand wanted to create a venue that caters for today’s food savvy individuals, inspired by eateries in Manhattan and Melbourne, and wanting to create something similar for Surry Hills. A big open kitchen allows guests to see how their dishes go from order to plate, and provides a bit of theatre in the concept. Food is shareable, and a discussion between server and chefs is definitely recommended.

Opened: May Owners: Carla Jones, Joe Saleh, Colin Fassnidge and wife Jane Hyland. Head chef: Carla Jones, Colin Fassnidge Seats: 90 The food: Food is shareable. Flavours are reminiscent of The Four in Hand Dining Room, with the help of Carla Jones’ influences. The menu is fun with a focus on flavours, while still staying true to the seasonal, nose to tail, home-grown produce that Fassnidge is known for. Address: 414 Bourke St. Surry Hills NSW P: (02) 9331 5399 W: www.4fourteen.com.au

Osteria Vivo

Palmer & Co

Osteria Vivo is the new Italian offering at Jupiters Hotel and Casino and the latest development in the program of refurbishments for the one time iconic Gold Coast venue. The opening of Osteria Vivo follows that of Prime restaurant and is also part of the hotel and casino’s plan to focus strongly on its food and beverage offering as a key part of its strategy to re-position it as an entertainment destination.

The latest venture from The Merivale Group is this 1920s prohibition era themed bar located in the 1800s heritage listed site that had originally housed Sydney’s original tank stream and later Merivale’s Tank nightclub. It’s named after Mr Palmer, a taxidermist who ran his business nearby back in the early days of Sydney.

Opened: May Owners: Echo Entertainment Head chef: Luciano Gandolfo The food: Gandolfo is taking an authentic approach to Italian food and aims to offer diners the chance for diners to sample lesser known regional offerings. The Spaghetti Carbonara for example will feature the original flavours “as the Italians intended it to be”. Risotto features strongly with six on the menu and Gandolfo aiming to “set the benchmark for the Italian classic”with varieties including wild mushroom, and roast pumpkin and sage. Address: Jupiters Casino Road, Broadbeach, Queensland P: (07) 5592 8100 W: jupitersgoldcoast.com.au

hospitality | june 2012

Opened: May Owner: The Merivale Group Group bar manager: Mikey Enright Chef: Scott Wade Capacity: 180 with mixture of tables. bar, couches and standing The cocktails (and food): With the positioning statement “Legitimate importers of bracing tonics and fortifying liquids” Palmer & Co’s cocktail list ranges from daily specials created and literally cooked up by the bartenders, to “The Collection” with eight signature cocktails, and “Prohibition” featuring drinks from the prohibition period. Food has a NY deli theme from corned beef on rye, to mac ‘n’ cheese, and veal meat balls and pickles. Address: Abercrombie Lane, Sydney P: (02) 9240 3172 W: palmerandco.com.au hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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workplace

The case for staying on top of wages A cafe has felt the Fair Work Ombudsmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrath after being found to have attempted to ride â&#x20AC;&#x153;roughshodâ&#x20AC;? over wage requirements. Restaurant and Catering Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s workplace relations team looks at the case. THE FAIR Work Ombudsman has recently commenced legal action in the Federal Court to wind up a Melbourne cafĂŠ business and is seeking orders from the Court to recover unpaid wages for former employees. In earlier litigation in the Melbourne Magistrates Court, the Fair Work Ombudsman v Compumark Pty Ltd case found two casual kitchen hands were underpaid $7,061 and $1,575 in wages and superannuation over the course of their employment which spanned only four and five months for each employee. The magistrate deemed these breaches to be significant sums over a very short period of employment. The employer had asserted that the employees were covered by Australian Workplace Agreements (AWAs) yet could not provide any evidence that the instruments were lodged â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although was well aware of lodgement process as they had lodged appropriately in the past. The kitchen hands were underpaid their minimum hourly rates, overtime rates and weekend rates as a result of being paid flat hourly rates as low as $14.50. Magistrate Hawkins has instructed Compumark to back-pay the workers the money owed, plus interest. However, the workers involved in the case of Compumark have still not been back-paid and as a result this year the Fair Work Ombudsman launched further

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Compumark case demonstrates that the wages bill is significantly lower than the penalties and legal costs that arise from these cases.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; legal action in the Federal Court. Magistrate Hawkins said the underpayments were â&#x20AC;&#x153;deliberateâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;an attempt to ride roughshod over established legal entitlementsâ&#x20AC;?. It is necessary for any employer to do their due diligence when it comes to employing staff. When you do employ an employee at any level, at minimum, an employer needs to provide information on what award or industrial instrument, such as an enterprise agreement that covers the employeeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s role â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and ensure the employee has access to the instrument. Also the nature of the employment relationship needs to be established. Will the employee be a full time, part time or casual worker? And is the contract fixed term or open ended? â&#x20AC;&#x153;There is a need to send a message to the community at large, and small employers particularly, that the correct entitlements for employees must be paid,â&#x20AC;? Magistrate Hawkins said. Three defendants from the cafĂŠ were then penalised a total of $120,000 in addition to orders relating to the payment of wages, superannuation and interest paid to the former employees.

In the case of Compumark v Fair Work Ombudsman the directive of back payment was ignored and the director of the company initiated the steps to dissolve the business which appears to be a way to avoid paying the outstanding underpayment of wages and orders by the magistrate. The Fair Work Ombudsman is now taking action in the Federal Court as a supporting creditor in proceedings aimed at securing a court order for Compumark to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;wound upâ&#x20AC;? if the company is insolvent by not complying with the backpayment and penalty orders. Fair Work Ombudsman Nicholas Wilson says that if Compumark is wound up, a liquidator will examine the company to determine whether it has any assets that can be liquidated to meet the back-payment and penalty orders. Employers, particularly small business employers, need to ensure they have wages under control because even small underpayments can compound into significant retrospective entitlements over a period of time. The Compumark case demonstrates that the wages bill is significantly lower than the penalties and legal costs that arise from these cases. This article was written by the workplace relations team at Restaurant & Catering Australia. Contact them on 1300 722 878

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review

Esposito, Carlton Plenty of diners are fans of what respected chef Maurice Esposito can do with pasta, risotto, and seafood. But spying an ad for a special duck promotion at this sublime restaurant our duck devotee diner headed along with great expecations. They were met.

mysterydiner MAURICE ESPOSITO seems to have cooked at a number of sensational restaurants across a 20 year career, from Michelin starred places in London, to Stephanie’s and The Stokehouse in Melbourne and Otto in Sydney, but this is the frontage that bears his name. Esposito is located in Carlton in the lovely premises that were once the domain of a seafood restaurant called Toofey’s, and it has, by and large, remained a place with a big fish focus with the very talented Maurice now in charge. We, however, are here for the duck. Odd as this may sound, I spied an ad in the paper that proffered four courses of duck and a bonus dessert if I booked – and I could bring a bottle (no corkage) if the desire overwhelmed me. It did, and my family of duck devotees descended on this fair Thursday eve. There are a couple of riders to this deal ($75 per head for the duck degustation delight); you must be in place and seated before 7pm and it is for only four weeks in autumn – on a Thursday night. We happened to be running a few minutes late due to carsickness striking one of the team, but she was not to be denied her Pekin pleasure and soldiered on. This posed no problem to the most charming and amiable host who simply took our coats when we arrived and greeted us graciously. I’ve determined that the family’s principle duck lover has had a fabulous childhood, for as I can look back on mine where we would eat out about twice a year, he can muse on his favourite duck being confit from a Michelin starred place in rural France or the Pancake wrapped one from Hong Kong – neither exactly the Dromana Hotel on summer holidays, but he’s developed an appreciation and acknowledges his good fortune. The duck on offer this night at Esposito’s would not be out of step with any we have sampled as the menu is thoughtfully crafted and expertly executed. A fine bottle of Pierrepoint Pinot from the cellar provides a pleasing counterpoint to the richness to follow. Dinner kicks off with an exquisite quenelle of liver parfait that is light and silky smooth while conveying the desired richness. It is accompanied by broken pieces of sweet and crisp, house made, brioche and watercress salad. The degustation experience here is not a search for heaps of huge dishes, but a selection of smallish tastes that are individually fulfilling and this certainly provides a fine start. The menu is 10

hospitality | june 2012

‘It’s just about a perfect ending to an epic duck-athon as the acid of the apple gives our homeward bound palate a lovely clean finish.’ printed on a small sheet of paper that provides a couple of paragraphs on the Pekin Ducks on the reverse. I now have a starter and an education. Bring on the next one. And it duly appears, unhurried and yet without a lengthy wait; a thick, fat, ‘brique’ of shredded leg meat. It is perfectly flat sided, crisp and brown and I imagined it to be firm, solid… brickish, and yet it was anything but. The exterior gave way to a tender inner of moist meat at the touch of a fork. It appeared to be something that it wasn’t. I love food like that. Pink (Target) Beetroot and some autumn leaves provide the balance in texture and taste. Next up is a consommé and I bore the children with stories from my youth and of building rafts for fining, but they drift from my nostalgia to spoon in mouthfuls of this dark and brooding broth and then take bites of the four fat ravioli

stuffed with pine mushrooms. To give an extra dimension there are crunchy duck skin scratching floating on the surface. It is a bowl of clean flavours and, in what is a real challenge for a duck soup, there is little fat to be seen or tasted. The final duck delight is the nominal ‘main’ of the night and it is a beauty. Thick, rare slices of duck breast are fanned gently on the plate with a creamy celeriac puree enhanced with vanilla. Chestnuts are scattered around and a confit carrot completes the elements. It draws nothing but positive responses from this table of admirers. They clearly think that four courses of delicious duck deserves a balance of dessert and it is all apple; in fact, it is apple four ways with a little oat crumble on the side. A terrine of apple sits centre of the bowl with crisp apple chips atop, sorbet on the rim and apple flavoured popcorn here and there. My son is particularly taken with the concept of the popcorn and how very true to apple it tastes. It is just about the perfect ending to such an epic duck-a-thon as the acid of the apple gives our homeward bound palate a lovely clean finish. We could have asked for no more. To continue on as a Melbourne seafood institution must have been a challenge for the crew at Esposito and it took many years for the Toofeys name to drop from the fascia, but Maurice and his team have done a commendable job. The concept of four nights of duck is a great way to freshen the menu options, give the staff a different focus and draw in the non piscatorial clients – the normal menu was still on offer, but most of the patrons seemed to be on our side – and in my opinion, our side was winning.

The details Esposito restaurant 162 Elgin Street, Carlton P: 03 9347 9838 W: espositofood.com Owner: Maurice Esposito Head chef: Maurice Esposito Open: Lunch - Monday to Friday; Dinner Monday to Saturday. The verdict: This talented chef demonstrated his skills are not just with seafood and pasta, giving much pleasure and satisfaction to this family of duck lovers, and also the strong desire to return to dine on his other menu.

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secretingredients Kym Machin, Spring, Brisbane Named Queensland’s Chef of the Year at the state’s inaugural Good Food Guide Awards recently, Kym Machin has been one of the chefs leading the dining evolution in Brisbane. We managed to grab him to pick his brain for five minutes. worked with, friends, family, co-workers, thousands of passionate people, all in the space of a few hundred metres, over a weekend made it a weekend I’ll always remember.

Can you give us a brief history of your career so far? I’ve been cooking now for 21 years, and have worked for and alongside some of Australia’s best chefs and restaurants. I’ve been living in Queensland now for the last nine years and have been the head chef of Anise and Green Papaya, but most of my time here has been as the head chef and co-owner for The Urbane Group (Urbane, The Euro and The Laneway). I’ve only just recently made the jump to Sarah Hancock’s new venture Spring, which I’m proud to be a part of. It’s great to be working with someone who shares the same values and philosophies. Congratulations on being named Chef of the Year in the inaugural Good Food Guide awards up there. How do you feel about Queensland finally getting its version of the Guide? Thank you, it’s an honour to be the first chef to win this award in the new guide. I think it’s fantastic to finally have a level playing field across the states, and it’s great that Brisbane now has a three hatted restaurant. Can you tell us about Spring and what your goal is there with the kind of food and dining experience you’re creating. I’m trying to create a real paddock to plate, producer focused bistro, which is relaxed and well priced. We also have a cooking school and soon to be, a wine bar. In the dining room I want the customers to feel relaxed and to give them the best ingredients I can source, and really to let the produce speak for itself. The cooking school is used to teach people on a more personal level. What’s the most popular dish on your menu? Very surprisingly it’s a vegetarian dish that nearly outsells the most popular meat dish by double. It’s a slow roasted organic pumpkin with a locally handmade buffalo milk haloumi, greens from our gardens and smoked almonds. Apart from your own, what’s your favourite restaurant? I love Spice Temple in both Sydney and Melbourne: the flavours, the ambience, the service and professionalism is just second to none. It’s fantastic. Neil Perry you’re a legend. 12

hospitality | june 2012

What’s your favourite ingredient you’re using at the moment? I think the vegetables and herbs from our garden, you feel much more a part of your dishes. What’s the most over rated ingredient being used on menus? Flowers and foraged leaves. If you understand the flavour you can make it work with your dish and enhance it but some flowers and herbs are very strong in flavour and will only work against it, completely ruining your dish. I don’t think enough chefs understand this.

Your pick of the menu there? Close your eyes and just place your finger down (but I can never not order the lamb and cumin pancakes). Where do you get your inspiration and ideas for your menus? My ideas and inspirations come from family, friends, producers, books and magazines and my fellow chefs who I look up to and work with. Without these people I could not achieve the goals I want to achieve. I thank them all and I’ll always feel indebted to them. Is there someone in your career who stands out as a mentor? Was there a key piece of advice they gave you that has always stayed with you and that you’ve found valuable? Cheong Liew. He will always be my hero and mentor. He said to me once “Stay true and believe in yourself and let no one else change what you believe in, otherwise you’ll believe in what’s not really yours.” It’s something I’ll always remember and always pass on. What’s been your most memorable food experience? There have been so many but last weeks’ Noosa Food and Wine festival was pretty memorable. Being surrounded and working alongside chefs you look up to and are inspired by, chefs I have

What would you say are the top challenges for the industry? Staff and keeping them, wages, food costs, a constantly evolving market, but mainly keeping afloat and focused in this very competitive market and industry. What’s the secret to finding good staff - and keeping them? Being able to keep them challenged, constantly learning and evolving, money to an extent. But most of all making them feel proud of where they’re working and what they’re creating. What do you think will be the next big thing in Australian foodservice? I believe Australian foodservice is going back to basics, great hearty and wholesome food and relaxed dining. Look to some of the world’s and Australia’s leading chefs, they’re all opening bistros and brassieres and they’re so successful because the food is still being respected, produce driven and operated, just like their hatted and starred restaurants, just more relaxed and at a cheaper price point. What would be on the menu at your last supper? It doesn’t matter as long as my family and friends are there with me, but I hope Wasabi’s aga dashi, Spice Temple’s lamb pancakes and some scrambled egg with brioche and shaved white truffle will make an appearance. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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Inward wine journey for McLaren Vale The winemakers of McLaren Vale are taking some thoughtful and interesting steps to celebrate and emphasise the unique make up of the leading South Australian wine region, writes Christine Salins. LTHOUGH the other ingredients in a dish might dictate otherwise, it would be difficult to think of anything but red wine to complement a hearty meat dish. Red meat, especially, calls for a fullerbodied red. If there’s one region in Australia where full-bodied reds reign supreme, it’s McLaren Vale in South Australia. Whites barely rate a sideways glance, and although some innovative work is being done with alternative white varietals like Fiano, this is most definitely red country. Some smaller wine producers don’t even bother with whites, preferring to concentrate on Shiraz, Cabernet and some of the Italian red varietals that thrive in the region’s Mediterranean climate and diverse soils. With the help of a geologist, a great deal of work has gone into producing a Geology of the McLaren Vale Wine Region map, an initiative that illustrates the region’s incredible diversity of soils, from limestone to clay and loamy sand. Further emphasising the diversity of terroir is the Scarce Earth project, now in its second year. Winemakers are invited to submit Shiraz from single plots and from those, more than 20 have been chosen to carry the Scarce Earth banner. A number of producers, including Battle of Bosworth, Chapel Hill and Hugh Hamilton, have had two wines selected. D’Arenberg has embraced the project in a very big way, with three from its 2010 Amazing Sites range carrying the Scarce Earth label. The Garden of Extraordinary Delights, Blind Tiger and The Shipster’s Rapture are all remarkably different, the first with sweet juicy fruit and a long savoury finish; the second with mocha notes and a velvety texture; and The Shipster’s Rapture with dark herbal and mineral notes. All up, d’Arenberg has produced 12 wines in the Amazing Sites range, drawing on fruit that would normally be blended into its flagship Dead Arm Shiraz. Senior winemaker Jack Walton describes the project as “an inward journey as much as anything”, so they can look at individual characteristics and the wines’ potential for ageing. “We’ve sold out of some of these [single vineyard wines], which just goes to show how people are interested in the

hospitality | june 2012

concept,” Walton said. D’Arenberg also produces some singlevineyard Grenache wines that are fleshy and brooding with lots of structure, beautifully complementing red meat dishes. Clarendon Hills, started in 1990 and now with a cult following internationally, also does some serious Grenache from very old vines, with six in its range highlighting different terroir. At the opposite end of the spectrum from d’Arenberg size-wise, small produc-

Great southern region: Grenache vines at Clarendon Hills (top); Brash Higgins’ Brad Hickey with his amphoras.

ers are placing their own stamp on the region’s wines. On their McLaren Vale focused Wine Diva Tours, Greg and Dee Linton introduce visitors to some of the region’s lesser known winemakers, many of them members of Vale Cru, a marketing collective of “high quality, small batch McLaren Vale winemakers”. Doug Govan and Ulithorne winemaker Rose Kentish established Vale Cru three years ago, so that small wineries could communicate with wine buyers and wine writers “in a meaningful way”. About 20 winemakers are members, among them Battle of Bosworth which makes its wines organically. As well as its single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, it makes a preservative-free Shiraz called Puritan and the Amarone-inspired White Boar. Scott Rawlinson, winemaker for fellow Vale Cru member, J&J Organic Wines, admits that organic grapegrowing requires a lot more work in the vineyard. But, he says, it offers a point of difference in a crowded market, and furthermore, “If we can do it in 2011 (a challenging vintage with lots of disease pressures), anyone can.” J&J makes only Shiraz from a single vineyard at various price points. When Paul Petagna’s father-in-law hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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bought land in McLaren Vale in 1998, “everybody was saying, ‘This is McLaren Vale, you have to have Shiraz’,” he said. And indeed, much of the 18-acre Petagna vineyard has been planted to Shiraz. Although not classified organic, it is farmed by some (not all) biodynamic principles, without the use of chemicals. Petagna’s biggest seller is the gently tannic Luna GSM but recently Paul has fallen in love with Mourvedre, which is traditionally grown in McLaren Vale but “needs to hit the spotlight. It’s a nice step away from having Shiraz all the time”. Although the 2010 Shiraz from Vigna Bottin was selected for the Scarce Earth project, winemaker Paolo Bottin is particularly excited about his Italian varietals that are finding their way into restaurants locally and in Melbourne. Inspired by his Italian heritage, Bottin makes Sangiovese, Barbera and various blends including a Barbera Cabernet in which the Cabernet is rack-dried Amarone-style for ten days before crushing, allowing him to hold fruit ripeness at a lower alcohol level. Gill Gordon-Smith is one of McLaren Vale’s greatest advocates, so much so that she has opened a wine store, Fall From Grace, so local producers can benchmark their wine against international brands. Gordon-Smith ran Qantas’s Sommelier

in the Sky program for four years before opening her own business. Her shop is an outlet for Beach Roach, which pro-

Petagna Wines’ Paul Petagna.

duces a range of Italian varietals, and for S.C.Pannell, the label of industry stalwart Stephen Pannell who has been creating masterful Grenache, Shiraz, Tempranillo and Nebbiolo since he went out on his own a few years ago. Another small producer, Brash Higgins, has had remarkable success with restaurants on the eastern seaboard. A lot of that probably has to do with the fact that owner Brad Hickey is producing something unique – the Sicilian variety Nero d’Avola fermented in clay amphora made by an Adelaide potter. The 2011 Nero d’Avola is quite a departure in style for McLaren Vale, being a lighter-bodied red with interesting characters of lavender, ginger and orange peel. “It’s never seen oak or steel and I’ve been pleasantly surprised at how well it’s been received,” said Hickey, who is also making a Grenache Mataro in small quantities. A former New York sommelier, Hickey says the wines have “really taken off” in Melbourne where they are listed at Stokehouse and Chin Chin. Although a relative newcomer, his wines have also been listed at Fix St James in Sydney and Il Centro, Aria and Spring in Brisbane. All of which goes to prove that even the tiniest of producers can be noticed in a sea of red.

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The Spanish conquerer Frank Camorra didn’t set out to run a mini-empire of restaurants when he opened his first MoVida. He just wanted bums on seats, writes Danielle Bowling.

s a Spanish restaurant still a Spanish restaurant if it doesn’t serve paella? Absolutely, says Frank Camorra, head of the Melbourne hospitality juggernaut that is the MoVida Group. It’s not on the menu in any of the four Melbourne restaurants that now make up the group and it won’t be on the menu at the much-anticipated launch in Sydney later this year, Camorra’s first foray out of the Victorian capital. While MoVida Sydney will be dishing up Spanish inspired tapas dishes and share plates, just like its brothers and sisters, the classic paella will be absent. “We won’t be doing paella because you can’t do a good paella unless you’ve got the space and the equipment,” insists Camorra. “It takes a lot of care and time - 30 minutes, minimum, on the stove to cook. In Spain for instance, if you go to a good paella restaurant you actually have to order it the day before. So we’re not going to be doing anything that we can’t do well, and we just don’t have the space.” Taking over Jared Ingersoll’s old Cotton Duck site on Holt Street, Surry Hills, MoVida Sydney will seat about 80 people and is scheduled for an October opening. And it’s a case of if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, with Camorra hoping to replicate the look and feel of the hugely popular original Melbourne site. “I guess we wanted to make sure that whatever we do in Sydney is going to represent what we do in Melbourne well,” he says. “Our thoughts were that if we go ahead and do something in Sydney and it’s not anything like our Melbourne restaurant then people will be disappointed, because we do get a lot of people saying ‘please open in Sydney’. “So we’ll probably have a dining room of about 40 or 50 seats where we can seat people and take bookings, and then have a further 30 or 40 seats that we won’t take bookings for. That’s the best of both worlds, you can make plans but also you can drop in at the last minute. I think that hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Spanish empire: Camorra’s second operation MoVida

Frank’s picks

Next Door.

‘There are plenty of successful restaurant operators that have one restaurant and do very well out of it.’ works well for us.” Apart from the original restaurant in Melbourne’s CBD, Camorra also oversees MoVida Aqui, a 200-seater with an outdoor eating area; MoVida Next Door, a smaller off-shoot tapas bar; MoVida Bakery, which opened in April; Paco’s Tacos, a tacqueria; and Bar Pulpo, a bar at Melbourne International airport which Camorra operates under a licensing agreement with another company. Camorra says he had been considering

FAVOURITE FOOD-RELATED BOOK? Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World, by Mark Kurlansky FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Els Casals, in the Bergueda region in the foothills of the Pyrenees, about 90 minutes north of Barcelona. FAVOURITE PLACE TO SHOP FOR FOOD AND INGREDIENTS? La Manna Direct, finally a supermarket that is taking on the big guys through quality and range. FAVOURITE MEAL EXPERIENCE? A meal a couple of years ago at Elkano in the small Basque fishing town of Getaria. It’s a family-owned iconic fish grill restaurant. It was a roll call of some of the most amazing ingredients I had ever tasted, starting with “guisantes de lagrima”, locally grown tiny peas, elder eels, “percebes” goose barnacles, hake cheeks, and tiny little calamari caught that morning in the bay by hand, finishing with an entire wild turbot cooked expertly over coals.

hospitality | june 2012

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hospitality | june 2012

a Sydney launch for the past four years, but other MoVida openings, and a tough market in the city, have prevented its reality, until now. And the restaurateur has even managed to nab three months of free rent from the landlord while renovations are underway. “I think we just cottoned on to a good landlord,” Camorra says. “In Melbourne you can make deals with your landlord and get incentives to do things. We looked in Sydney for quite a while and rents are so much higher. There’s really no incentive, it’s either take it or leave it. The landlords aren’t considering who the tenants are. “I think it’s just about the dollar at the end of the day. Maybe we’re lucky we found a landlord who sees the value of a good tenant who can increase the value of the property.” Other than the rental situation, he’s noticed another difference between the Sydney and Melbourne dining scenes - one that he’s hoping to rectify with MoVida Sydney. “I think there’s an element of fun - like what we do at MoVida - that’s missing in a lot of casual dining in Sydney,” he says. “Also, I think Spanish food isn’t well represented in Sydney, and I think that’s going to be important, because hopefully people will want to enjoy good Spanish food. “Not to say that everything we do is traditional. We do play around with the food as well … but I definitely think there is an opportunity and a point of difference that we offer.” A fun, casual approach to dining is a mantra at all MoVida venues, and Sydney will be no exception. According to Camorra, the fun starts in the kitchen. “We’re trying to maintain the same spirit,” he says. “We like to let the people that are [in the kitchen] show their own personality. I’d say the front of house is very similar in the fact that it’s casual and we try to make it fun. We try

not to take it too seriously, we let people have an experience rather than just dine out. “As far as food goes, within the parameters of what we do, I let the chefs express their own food. So they can put on specials and change the menu. They do have their own personality with their food and I think it shows.” So what are these parameters? What defines a MoVida dish? “The starting point is Spanish food, so whether it’s an ingredient or a particular dish,” says Camorra. “Then we let the market lead them, so what’s in season, what’s good now. I try and drill into them as well to try and get rid of any complication. Try to make the food speak for itself. Don’t make the food too complicated because to me, people are having a lot of shared dishes and the last thing you want is each plate to be overly complicated with too many ingredients. I’d rather have two or three ingredients that shine on each plate.” Giving his chefs independence in the kitchen ensures fresh ideas and flavours are constantly on offer at each MoVida venue, important considering the juggling act that is Camorra’s career. “I’ve been working at the bakery full time for the last month or so but if there’s a new location I’ll spend a year or so in the kitchen working on that and if it’s all good I end up spending a day or two with each chef. “Before the bakery, I was spending less and less time in the kitchen and more just managing the business, so it varies depending on what’s going on. I don’t know where I’m going to be the next day basically.” Despite his success, Camorra didn’t actually set out to run a mini-empire of restaurants when it all began with his first restaurant 11 years ago. Originally, all he wanted was bums on seats at Melbourne’s MoVida, but as the restaurant’s popularity grew, along with his team of talented, loyal staff, so too did his ambitions. He says part of his group’s success is because it hasn’t grown too fast, allowing each venue to get on its feet before moving on to the next project. And while there are obvious benefits to running multiple operations under the one brand, Camorra doesn’t believe you have to be part of a restaurant group like his to make a name for yourself. “There’s room for everything I think,” he says. “There are plenty of successful restaurant operators that have one restaurant and do hospitalitymagazine.com.au

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Frank’s Bocadillo de Calamares (Bocadillo of Fried Calamari, Aioli and Peppers) Makes ten portions Aioli 3 garlic cloves 2 pinches sea salt flakes 2 egg yolks 1 tbs Dijon mustard 2 tbs lemon juice 150ml extra virgin olive oil 150ml sunflower oil 500g calamari (1 medium) 40g semolina, fine 1 lemon, juice of 10 guindillas 1/2 cup parsley, roughly chopped Salt 10 rolls To make the aioli: Coarsely chop garlic and sprinkle with the sea salt and crush using the flat of the blade of the knife. Put the yolks in bowl. Add mustard and garlic paste and gently whisk together. Add the oils a few drops at a time, whisking continuously. The oil needs to be emulsified into the egg mixture before you add more. It should become gradually thicker. Keep whisking slowly adding the rest of the oils until you get a thick mayonnaise. Check for seasoning. Add the lemon juice and any salt dissolved into the lemon juice. Finally whisk in a tablespoon of warm water. This will help strengthen the emulsion. This makes 400g aioli. Calamari: Clean calamari by first holding onto legs and pulling out of the body. Take hood and gently tear off wings either side. Peel skin from hood and wings. Cut cartilage from the wings. Cut the hood open along what appears to be a seam. Remove the clear quill and scrape away innards. Cut legs from the mouth. Discard mouth, cartilage and innards. Separate legs with a sharp knife. Cut the hood and wings into ½ x 5cm strips and the legs into 5cm lengths. Rinse and drain well. Pre heat deep fryer to 180C. Place calamari in a bowl. Season with a few pinches of sea salt, lemon juice. Sprinkle over the semolina. Mix well. Shake off excess semolina and deep fry the calamari for one minute until lightly golden. Drain and season with salt and parsley. To serve: Cut the rolls in half, spoon on half a tablespoon of aioli on each, a guindilla torn in half and some of the calamari. Secure with a wooden skewer and serve with an ice cold beer. Image and recipe from Movina Cocina by Frank Camorra. Published by Murdoch Books.

well out of it.” The key is to have good staff who are loyal and who want to make a career out of your brand, he says. “We’ve been lucky to have good staff, keep them and grow with them, and part of that means that you have to grow, to keep those staff. But I don’t think you have to be in a group to have a successful restaurant. “The head chef at MoVida Aqui, James, has been with hospitalitymagazine.com.au

me since we started, and he probably cooks the food better than I do to be honest. He’s going to be head chef at MoVida Sydney. “David, the head chef at the original MoVida, he’s been with us since he was a first year apprentice, over seven years. We’ve been blessed with good kitchen staff and front of house as well, people that have been with us a long time and we just want to grow with them.” hospitality | june 2012

packaging

Your brand on the move The packaging around your product as it heads out of your doors can be a powerful marketing tool, writes Rosemary Ryan.

hat comes to mind when you think of your food businesses’s packaging, the vehicle that transports your delicious product out into the big world with your customer? It could be that cup of quality coffee, the world’s best pie or sausage roll, or a great burger being carried away all packaged up and out of your cafe, restaurant or takeaway store. Yes it’s protecting the food, it’s providing convenience for your customer, it may even have been chosen by you for its environmental sustainability. But what’s it saying about you and your business as it leaves your store? Are you making the most of it to leverage your brand? If you aren’t then you’re wasting a valuable opportunity says Marisa Jones, group brand manager at leading Australian packaging company Detpak. “We’re seeing more foodservice operators being very clever when it comes to packaging,” she says. Clever in terms of the environment their customers are demanding that packaging is more environmentally friendly - but also with how they use it as a promotional vehicle. They are realising the opportunities that the packaging offers. “We are really seeing a lot more in terms of dual functionality of packaging not just as a way to carry food and have a marketing message, but also as a promotional vehicle.” Jones says using packaging to carry special offers and to promote loyalty programs was an opportunity being increasingly appreciated by smart foodservice operators. “It might perhaps be tear-off tokens that customers can collect and bring back to get say 20 per cent off your next purchase. We are certainly seeing a lot more of that. “And if businesses look at how much they are spending on other types of marketing paraphernalia, leaflets, loyalty cards or such, or some other kind of competition, they can start to see how valuable it can be to try to use their packaging in that way.” One foodservice business that’s begun harnessing the promotional opportunities offered by its packaging is the fast growing Australian company Pie Face.

hospitality | june 2012

Packaging your message: Pie Face’s quirky packaging (right) and Detpak’s new photo pizza boxes.

The now 75 store strong bakery cafe business whose success revolves around its range of Aussie pies with their quirky “faces” changed its plain packaging to branded ahead of its launch into the United States market earlier this year. The Pie Face New York store opened with a bang in February with several also planned for the city by the end of this year. Pie Face’s Monika Veith says branded packaging was considered essential for the launch into the US but was also seen as an untapped opportunity in the Australian market as well. “It’s a different attitude there, the more packaging you have the better,” she says. “The sillier and more novelty the better. They love the novelty of Pie Face and the packaging was part of that. In Aus-

‘We are really seeing a lot more in terms of dual functionality of packaging not just as a way to carry food but also as a promotional vehicle.’ tralia it’s all about being environmentally friendly and making sure your packaging is recyclable, and as little as possible.” The Pie Face packaging design now being used features a range of stick figures and doodles with irreverent text like “So pie faced” and “Kick my arse”. It also features the message that the packaging is “100 per cent recyclable, sustainable and compostable”. Continued on page 38 hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Our popular Rebbitâ&#x201E;˘ Ripple-Wrapâ&#x201E;˘ Hot Cup is just one of more than 200 compostable products in the current range that also includes bags, cartons, carry packs, trays, clams, wedges and more. To learn more about our whole range visit www.detpak.com or call us toll free on 1300 363 380.

meat

pleasures of the fl

Matt Kempâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pork extravaganza

hospitality | june 2012

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meat

lesh

As the chill of winter starts to bite around Australia, diners’ appetites for good hearty meat dishes to ward off the cold will be growing. Read on for seven of our top chefs’ favourite ways to use the power proteins of the industry - pork, beef and lamb - on their winter menus, all with an eye on the non loin, secondary cuts that pack both flavour and cost effectiveness. SUCKLING PIG, SAVOY CABBAGE, CELERIAC, AND STUFFED PIGS TAILS From Matthew Kemp, ex-Montpellier Public House, Sydney Serves 4 1 head boned out 1 rump 2 shank 1 tail Cabbage mixture ¼ Savoy cabbage, core removed, diced 1cm squared 1 small celeriac, peeled, diced 1cm squared 1 large carrot, peeled, diced 1cm squared 40g pancetta, skin removed, diced 1cm squared 100ml duck fat 1 tsp grain mustard 2 sprigs thyme 1 clove garlic, cracked Pig’s head 1 pig’s head, boned, cut in half 1 small onion, diced 1 small carrot, diced 1 small celery, diced 4 garlic cloves, cracked 100ml Madeira 50ml port 1L veal stock 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 100ml vegetable oil Tail and shank 2 pig’s tails 100g shank meat, dice 1cm square 1/2 medium onion, diced 1/2 medium carrot, diced 1/2 celery stick, diced 2 garlic cloves, cracked 100ml Madeira 1L veal stock 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 100ml vegetable oil 1/2 Granny Smith apple

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Pig shank gnocchi Dough 350g potato, passed through drum sieve 150g flour, plain, sifted Sea salt Ground black pepper Braised shank meat Rump 1L water 100g salt, rock 50g castor sugar 1 bay leaf 2 black peppercorns 1 rump, 300g Cabbage mixture Take heavy based pan. Add duck fat, garlic and thyme and heat. Add pancetta and cook until lightly golden. Add carrot and celeriac and cook until soft and then stir cabbage. Season. Dig out garlic and thyme. Fold in mustard. Set aside. Pig’s head Lay pig’s head skin on side down and season well. Roll in muslin cloth and secure with butchers’ twine to create a cylinder. Caramelise root veg in a heavy based pan with the vegetable oil, add alcohol and reduce to a glaze. Add the stock and herbs. Bring to boil, add the head, cover with parchment and place in an oven at 140C for 3½ hours. When soft and giving remove from oven. Allow to cool in liquor. Unwrap and roll in clingwrap to form a large cylinder. Place in the fridge to set. Tail and shank Heat a heavy based pan. Add oil, followed by tails and shank meat. Cook until golden all over. Remove and set aside. Using same pan and root veg and cook until golden brown. Add madeira and reduce to a glaze. Return meat, add stock and herbs. Bring to the boil. Cover with parchment and braise at 140C for two hours.

Remove from oven. Leave shanks to cook in liquor. Remove tails. Carefully debone. Dice and sauté half a Granny Smith apple. Stuff the tail with this and roll in clingwrap to reform the tail shape. Set in fridge for three to four hours. Cut in four then pane using panko breadcrumbs. Set aside. Drain off the shanks and shred. Pass stock and reduce to sauce consistency. Add a little jus to the shank meat. Set aside. Keep the rest aside to use to sauce the dish. Pig shank gnocchi Mix all ingredients together, except the meat, and knead to form a dough. Roll out to the thickness of a $2 coin. Cut into rounds, eight centimetres across. Fill with the braised shank and fold over to create a semi circle parcel. Blanch in salted simmering water for two minutes and refresh in iced water. Drain well and set aside. Rump Bring ingredients to the boil, except rump, and simmer for ten minutes. Chill completely. Emerse rump in for 12 hours. Drain well and tie with butcher’s twine. Set aside. Plating up Braised pigs head, cut into four, panfried Gnocchi x 4 - panfried Tails - deep fried Rump - roasted Cabbage mixture Jus Granny Smith apple solphorino Celeriac Puree Mustard Cress Crackling

hospitality | june 2012

meat

BERKSHIRE PORK RUMP, PARSNIP FRITTERS, APPLE AND PARSNIP PUREE AND APPLE FOAM From Bethany Finn, executive chef, Urban Bistro, Adelaide ‘This is such a nice warming dish at night, and everyone is so time poor these days that a roast is such luxury. The Berkshire has such a lovely dry skin on it and we dry it even more so it has such a great crackling. The rump is such a beautiful cut. It’s 100 per cent meat and the fat just melts through and bastes it while it’s cooking.’ Bethany Finn 1 Berkshire pork rump (approximately 800g) Sea salt and vegetable oil Apple and parsnip puree 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cut 6 parsnips, peeled, cut 50 ml ghee 2 tbsp soft brown sugar 250ml apple juice 1 cassia stick, 1 tbsp caster sugar Parsnip fritter & puree 4 eggs 1 cup of water 100g butter 150g plain flour, 1 tsp sea salt Apple foam 250 ml apple juice 1 cassia stick, 2 star anise 3 1/2 sheets of silver gelatine leaf softened in cold water 100 ml egg white, lightly whipped Soda syphon, two gas charges Pork Leave rump unwrapped in fridge for a day or two to allow skin to dry. Score skin in a cross hatch design and rub with sea salt and a little veg oil. Roast at 190C for 15 minutes. Allow to rest before carving. 24

hospitality | june 2012

Apple and parsnip puree Sautee apple pieces in heavy base pan with a little ghee until golden brown. Add two tablespoons of brown sugar and allow to caramelise. Cover with apple juice and one stick of cassia. Turn flame down to a simmer. Allow apples to cook thoroughly and the apple juice to reduce. Puree and pass through a fine sieve. Cover parsnips with cold water with a teaspoon of sugar. Cook until tender, puree until smooth, pass through fine sieve. Reserve half the parsnip for the fritter, mix the other half of parsnip with apple puree. Parsnip fritter Heat water, salt and butter until melted. Add all the flour at once. Stir in until combined. The dough will need to be cooked on a low flame for three minutes. Constantly stir and don’t allow the dough to catch on the bottom of the pan. Place cooked dough into electric mixer with paddle attachment. Allow dough to cool a little before adding one egg at a time until combined and slowly mix to make a smooth batter. Add the parsnip puree. Add a spoonful of batter to heated oil for a crisp parsnip fritter. Apple foam Infuse apple juice with spices, cool to tepid. Add softened gelatine then egg white. Pour into syphon and charge with gas. To serve Carve rump into 12 chunky pieces. Swipe a spoonful of apple parsnip puree onto the plate, place three parsnip fritters a person, squirt apple foam between fritters, garnish with apple wafers and baby leaves.

PORK, QUINCE AND KOHLRABI From Hadleigh Troy, Amuse restaurant, Perth

Pickled vegetables 1 kohlrabi, peeled, halved and cut into wedges 3 carrots, sliced into rounds 1 cauliflower, cut into small florets

Pickling juice 250 gm water 150 gm white wine vinegar

Quince 1 whole, peeled, seeded and cut into wedges

Pork cheek 6 whole, silver skin cleaned off 1/2 onion 1 carrot 1/2 stick celery 1/4 fennel 3 cloves garlic 5 sprigs thyme 1 fresh bay leaves 10 black pepper corns 2 L chicken stock 100 ml white wine

Vegetables Prep vegetables and add to pickling juice. Bring to boil then cover and leave for four hours. Quince Place in pickling juice then simmer until cooked through. Pork cheek Seal cheeks in a hot pan. Remove and then add vegetable into the pan and stir until caramelised. Deglaze with white wine. Simmer until liquid dissipated. Add pork cheeks, herbs, peppercorns then cover with chicken stock, simmer for four hours. Once braised, leave to cool then strain and reduce left over cooking liquid by half and reserve for dish. Garnish Homemade black pudding, roasted Pea sprouts Witlof Carrot tops Crispy pigs’ ear

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Left to right: • Pablo Tordesillas - Ortiga, Brisbane • Darren Robertson - Three Blue Ducks, Sydney • Jake Nicolson - Circa, The Prince, Melbourne • Dan Hong - Ms G’s + El Loco, Sydney • Brent Savage - Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Sydney • Peter Manifis - Incontro + Beluga Claremont, Perth • Shaun Presland - Saké Restaurant & Bar, Sydney

When it comes to PorkStars, this magnificent seven and their masterful command with pork, it is no wonder gluttony is one of the seven deadly sins. This sinful seven’s diverse gastronomic and cultural backgrounds are the envy of others when it comes to creating culinary magic. Their lustful pork dishes are the first word in imagination and temptation. There is no better time to get some pork on your menu. Be a PorkStar.

APL0224

www.porkstar.com.au

meat

Beef short ribs From Omar Andrade, El Capo, Sydney

‘This is one of the mains we’ve had on the menu for about seven months and it’s very popular. I grew up eating beef ribs – it’s a great cut, a very versatile cut, but it can be a bit chewy. For this dish I steam them so they get really soft and tender, and then put it on the char-grill to get that great barbecue taste. We buy a side of beef and break it down ourselves – it costs about 70 per cent less if you do it that way.’ Omar Andrade

Serves 8 10 short ribs 2 heads of garlic 12 hot banana peppers 4 tbsp veg oil 1 kg canned tomato 2 red onion, sliced into 3cm slices 1 1/2 green capsicum, deseeded, sliced into 3cm pieces 2 tsp black pepper 2 tbsp Mexican oregano 100g Achiote paste 4 tbsp vinegar 2 tbsp Epazote

hospitality | june 2012

In a large pot, roast the garlic cloves over medium heat until soft and blackened in spots (10 to 15 minutes). While the garlic is roasting, roast the banana peppers over an open flame, turning regularly, until they are blistered and blackened in spots. Let the garlic cool, then peel and roughly chop. Cut a slit in the side of each chilli. Sprinkle the meat with salt, sear all sides to a rich golden brown. Braise the meat. Pour the tomatoes, along with the roasted garlic, red onion, green capsicum, black pepper, oregano and Epazote into a large pot. Cook until the mixture starts to thicken. Meanwhile, mash the Achiote paste and vinegar together until smooth. When the sauce has reduced, stir in the Achiote mixture and enough water to bring the depth to about 3/4 of the roasting tin. Taste and season with salt, usually about one teaspoon. Nestle the meat and whole roasted chillies into the sauce, cover the pot and slide into the middle of the oven. Cook until the meat is tender and is nearly falling apart (about two hours). Remove the meat and store in some braising liquid, reduce the remainder until thickened. Serve with green shallot rounds, lime juice and habanero tea. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

The landmark Australian Hospitality Conference is being convened this September to coincide with the 2012 AHA National Awards for Excellence. High profile presenters and an unforgettable party at MONA will be highlights, so register online and join Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hospitality industry in Hobart!

www.hospitalityconference.com.au

meat

LAMB TRUFFLES WITH PEA PUREE AND BEETROOT

GRILLED FLAT IRON STEAK, MASH, CARAMELISED ONION, SWISS BROWNS, RED WINE JUS

From Shannon Whitmore, Rustico Tapas & Bar, Rockingham

From Andy Ball, chef, Belmondo, Sydney

‘Customers tell me they love these, that it’s like having a roast lamb dinner in a mouthful. Lamb necks – like all secondary cuts – are something that I love to use, and basically cooking anything on the bone means you’ll get more flavour. Here we have even just served the neck and people just love shredding the meat off it and dipping it in the beautiful braised juices. It’s great to be able to show apprentices how to use a cut like neck and make something delicious out of it.’ Shannon Whitmore Recipe makes 24 “truffles” 1 lamb neck, bone in (about 700g) 1 carrot, diced 1 onion, diced 1 celery stalk, diced Red wine to cover Lamb stock 2 onions, sliced 100g butter 1 sprig of thyme Pinch of salt 10g fresh mint, chopped Japanese breadcrumbs Bechamel sauce 100g butter 100g flour 250ml milk 1 bay leaf Pea puree 1 diced shallot 50g butter 100g peas 28

hospitality | june 2012

For lamb: Mix the carrot, onion, celery and wine. Add the lamb neck and marinate overnight. Next day, drain the lamb neck from the marinade, setting it aside for later use. Seal the lamb in a hot pan. Add the retained marinade (the mirepoix and the remaining wine) to the pan and add the lamb stock to cover. Braise for several hours until the meat comes away from the bone. Retain the reduced braisage for later use. In another pan, sauté the onions with the butter, sprigs of thyme and salt. Cover with a lid until starting to catch. Finish off until caramelised, then add the fresh mint. Shred the lamb with a fork and add to the onion and mint mix. Next add the reduced braisage to the lamb mix to bind. Season well and roll into balls and refrigerate. Once chilled, remove the balls from the fridge and run through the thick béchamel. Refrigerate to set. Once set, crumb in Japanese breadcrumbs and fry until golden. For pea puree: Sauté off the shallot in half the butter then add 200ml water. Bring to the boil until the shallot is cooked then add the peas and cook until tender. Drain and puree with a little of the water and the rest of the butter for a nice shine. Season to taste. To serve: Make a spoon lick of the pea puree, and place a lamb truffle on top. Serve with fresh peas in butter and garnish with some roasted beetroot.

‘Wide, long, and flat (hence the name), the Flat Iron steak is from the Oyster Blade. A muscle from below the shoulder blade, and is bisected by a long line of gristle. When the gristle is removed, you get two beautiful 300-450 gram steaks that can then be portioned. The Flat Iron is the second-most tender cut on the animal (after the Tenderloin), and it stays juicy and tender even when cooked to medium-well.’ Meat and Livestock Australia 4 x 180g flat iron steaks, cut from the oyster blade 2 large brown onions, peeled, sliced very finely 4 large royal blue potatoes, peeled, cut in half 4 large Swiss brown mushrooms Large pinch of chopped parsley Olive oil Salt, pepper 100g salted butter 100ml pure cream 250ml veal jus 100ml red wine 2 eschallots, peeled, chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled, chopped 1 small sprig of thyme Season flat iron steaks with salt and pepper and then cook on a hot grill to desired temperature. Cook sliced onions in a heavy based pan on medium heat with a little olive oil and a knob of butter. Keep onions moving in the pan till they have cooked down and softened. Continue to cook the onions till they caramelise. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water. Drain. Pass through a moulis and then push through a fine sieve. Mix in the cold butter and hot cream using a rubber spatula, do not over mix. Season to taste. Place the mushrooms in a roasting tray and drizzle with olive oil. Season and then roast in the oven for approximately five minutes. To make the red wine jus, caramelise any trimmings from the oyster blade in a heavy based pan and then add eschallots and garlic. Add the thyme and then the red wine and reduce the red wine fully till it is syrupy. Add the veal jus, bring to the simmer and skim off any fat. Reduce the jus by half and pass through a fine chinois. Correct seasoning and consistency. Mix the parsley into the finished mash and then pipe onto the middle of the plate, place the mushroom next to the mash and place a quenelle of the caramelised onions opposite. Position the grilled flat iron steak on the mash and then drizzle the jus around the plate. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

meat CUMIN SCENTED LAMB BROCHETTES WITH TAHINI AND HONEY YOGHURT

NEW!

From Jake Nicolson, head chef, Circa, the Prince, Melbourne ‘Dishes like this are a way for us to make complete use of our lambs to use up all the trimmings and scraps. We get our lambs in whole from our supplier Plains Paddock and break them down ourselves. It’s cost effective but also means I can monitor it and cut the specifications to the way I like it. One of our dishes uses five different cuts of lamb on the plate, the shoulder, the rack, leg and neck, and an offal yakatori.’ Jake Nicolson Makes 20 500 g lamb mince 1 onion, diced 2-3 garlic cloves, chopped 2 tsp cumin ½ tsp ground coriander Zested lemon 2-3 tbsp chopped coriander Salt and pepper to taste Combine all the ingredients together

More like it.

by hand; shape about 40 grams of the mixture around a wooden skewer to form the brochette. Can be cooked in the oven or in a pan. Honey and Tahini Yoghurt 500 g natural yoghurt 200 ml honey 100 g tahini 200 ml lemon juice Combine all ingredients and season to taste.

More Aussie beef. Just the way your customers like it! Australian Food Corporation, one of the biggest producers of beef patties in Australia, proudly introduces leading global brand SEARA. Seara Food Services Australia offers you the freshest, tastiest Aussie farmed beef in the form of a wide range of superior Par-cooked and IQF Raw products, including prime Angus and succulent Wagyu patties and meatballs.

New steak ‘discovered’

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oyster blade. “If you’ve had a blade steak on the bone with an L-shaped bone in it the undercut is actually the bit of meat underneath that is always nice and tender,” said Piper, who’s pictured with an undercut of blade. “It’s a steak that’s been around for a long time - butchers used to use it as a ‘special’ steak for customers, or keep it themselves to throw in the pan because it’s nice and tender. And because of where it’s from and off the bone it also has lots of flavour.”

Bamboo/AFC3076/Hospitality

IS THIS the last steak on the cow? That’s a question being asked following the news that a new beef cut has been “discovered” with its founders saying it eats just like a New York strip steak. The cut of meat - labelled the Vegas Strip steak - was revealed by the cut’s founder, Dr Tony Mata at the Protein Innovation Summit at the NRA show in Chicago, and cooked up by chef Rick Gresh of David Burke’s Primehouse. While details about exactly what the cut is have been kept under wraps as a patent is sought, Mata said the steak has “little connective tissue or visible fat” and comes from a section of the beef carcass that previously ended up as mince meat. “This muscle produces a steak that’s on par with or better than today’s most popular steaks,” he’s said. Meat and Livestock Australia’s foodservice business development manager (and butcher), Doug Piper, who was present at the show, said he believes the Vegas Strip steak has been developed from a cut already known by butchers as the undercut of blade located in the same section of the beef carcass as the bolar and

• • • • •

For more details contact us on 1300 765 507 or visit www.searafoodservices.com.au

hospitality | june 2012

www.maxwellandwilliamshospitality.com.au

ind maxwell & williams on facebook!

Tables get COLOUR fusion

White has long ruled in Australia, but foodservice operators here are developing a growing appetite for a bit of colour and design to add personality to their tabletops. it down at a table at chef and restaurateur Guillermo “Willy” Trullas Moreno’s wildly successful Spanish restaurant in Shanghai, El Willy, and you’ll be charmed and delighted with not just the great food on the table. There’s also the crockery Moreno had custom designed and made for the restaurant featuring brightly coloured abstract motifs of pigs - images aimed at reflecting his love of using pork and his nose to tail philosophy - as they stare up at you and wander around the edges of plates. Meanwhile, if you headed into chef Justin Queck’s Sky on 57 at the prestigious Marina Bay Sands Hotel in Singapore you’ll find the quirky works of a Chinese contemporary artist featured on the plates - six different designs in all, with more planned. Both projects were created by French tableware manufacturer Legle and are an example of the potential for crockery to be used as key part of the design elements of a restaurant. While tableware distributors in Asia say the use of custom designed crockery is being embraced by restaurateurs there, it’s also something that’s growing in Australia, a market where restaurants have long been seas of white crockery.

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Increasing numbers of restaurateurs are looking for colour in crockery and also working with tableware manufacturers, as well as artists and designers to come up with ranges of plates, bowls and glassware that are unique to their venues. Daniel Grundman, from tableware importer and manufacturer H.A.G Australia, says there’s increasing interest in, and demand for, more colourful crockery, as the continuing trend towards greater casualisation in restaurants grows, and as operators look for more ways to set themselves apart. “There’s no doubt we’ve been seeing requests for colour increasing over the last few years,” Grundman said. “It has been white on white on white. White is still classical and more people are doing that with higher end bone china per se but when it comes to more casual dinnerware there is a move. “There has been a big come back for terracotta in the tapas style restaurants and we’re also getting more people wanting to have either their own designs on plates or they are looking at using decals. “Design is becoming extraordinarily important and people want their uniqueness, they want their own look. The idea of it is certainly starting to ramp up. These places are wanting to set themselves apart and make the crockery more of a part of

Personality plus: The bespoke tableware at El Willy (top) and at Sky on 57 restaurant (above).

the experience of their restaurant. ” Grundman said large hotels had in the past, and continued to lead the way in, the use of bespoke crockery ranges used across the sites in the group as an element of their branding. “Our Hong Kong distributor is doing a fair bit in the world of hotels and they are about to do a design that we did on bone china specifically for a hotel in Indonesia,” he says. “No one else will have that design. It’s about being different.” Read on for some of the latest new crockery arrivals on the market. hospitality | june 2012

crockery

On the table We round up some of the latest interesting new arrivals

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in crockery for your tables.

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hospitality | june 2012

1 Create a Royal landscape The stunning new Mode range from Royal Doulton is a stylish collection designed by renowned London designers David Queensberry and Martin Hunt. Featuring neutral colours and a combination of porcelain, stoneware, glass and wood, it allows restaurateurs to mix and match to create â&#x20AC;&#x153;table landscapesâ&#x20AC;?, says Royal Doulton. Included in the range is an eclectic mix of glossy white tableware including square serving platters as well as â&#x20AC;&#x153;puttyâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;stoneâ&#x20AC;? coloured bowls and plates with a satin finish, and limed wood serving pieces including bread trays and platters. Contact: WWRD Australia 2 Style in Motion Maxwell & Williamsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new Motion Frequency range features more than 20 different tableware items to choose from all in fine porcelain with a flowing modern look created by its curved edges, and subtle metallic pattern. Contact: H.A.G 3 Colour statement German designed and manufactured, Dibbernâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South Beach range features smart colour combinations on its renowned fine bone

china tableware. Contact: Beclau Homewares 4 Fresh colour The Katarina range of fine bone china from Rhubarb is ready to inject some vibrancy into table settings with its fresh colour combination of lime green and teal. Contact: Zimba 5 Colour inspiration Taking colour inspiration from the fashionable streets of Italy comes the latest series in the Maxwell & Williams Cafe Culture collection. Available in a rainbow of glorious colours, the pieces feature a colour gloss exterior with a white interior and includes coupe mugs, demis and cappuccino cups and saucers. Contact: H.A.G 6 Buffet brilliance The Emotion range from Bauscher Germany combines a wide selection of shapes and sizes of bowls and platters that all go together to create stylish buffet displays or add style to tables. Contact: Spyral

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Great food deserves great tableware.

Contact WWRD Customer Service on 1300 852 022 to enquire about our Royal Doulton Commercialware distributors. Pattern featured: Loop.

crockery

8 About Us The Foodservice Industry Association is a non-profit organisation formed in 1985 to organise and manage Hospitality and Catering Expos throughout regional NSW. The events provide an opportunity for members and non-members to promote their products and services to all sectors of the foodservice and associated industries.

By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The Foodservice Industry Association has established itself as the leader in the regional Foodservice & Catering Expo/ Trade Show field. The association is managed by industry professionals from our membership, with some of Australia’s leading Foodservice providers at the helm, including Bayview Seafoods, Sara Lee, Clorox, Patties Foods, Ingham’s, Ready Bake, Murray Goulburn and Peerless Foods, just to name a few.

Vision Statement The Foodservice Industry Association is committed to the ongoing growth and development of the industry and our members by continuing to deliver high quality, high value trade shows and exhibitions throughout regional NSW.

These expos and trade shows give a broad range of industry users the opportunity to meet and compare and discuss the latest trends in the Food Services Industry. By specialising in high value exhibitions for both participants and visitors alike, The FIA – NSW has established itself as the leader in the regional Expo/Trade Show field

Upcoming shows NOWRA - JULY 24th Tuesday - 11am to 7pm SHOALHAVEN ENTERTAINMENT CENTRE Bridge Rd, Nowra NSW 2541 CANBERRA - OCTOBER 16th - 17th Tuesday - 3pm to 7pm, Wednesday - 10am to 4pm CANBERRA - TBA PORT MACQUARIE - NOVEMBER 13th - 14th Tuesday - 3pm to 7pm, Wednesday - 10am to 4pm THE PORT MACQUARIE SPORTS STADIUM Cnr of Hastings River Dr & Hibbard Dr, Port Macquarie

For any enquiries please contact Melinda Snow Foodservice Industry Association NSW Inc

PO Box 4062, BAY VILLAGE NSW 2261 Tel: 02 43341114 Fax: 02 43341114 Mob: 0422 087 488 melinda@foodservice.org.au

www.foodservice.org.au

hospitality | june 2012

5 7 Classic to quirky Singaporean-based Luzerne has unveiled its latest collection of new designs in its collection of fine ceramic and stone tableware that ranges from the classic to the quirky like this coral inspired theme. Luzerne products combine Japanese technology with Chinese artisan craftsmanship and the best of international design. It was the first company to perfect the production of traditional bone china without the use of animal bone ash. Contact: Luzerne 8 Colours of summer It may be winter but the Santorini range of bone china from Rhubarb wil have your customers thinking it’s almost summer with its fresh blue

and white decoration. Meanwhile, the Rosa range features a charming French ticking pattern that will have them calling for more croissants and cafe au lait. Contact: Zimba 9 Natural selection The idea behind the Evolution tableware range from Dudson was to produce ceramic hospitality tableware with the lowest carbon footprint of any other on the market. The amount of carbon produced in its manufacture is 79 per cent less than that of equivalent porcelain products. It’s made using lead free ThermEco glaze and uses a once fired technology that reduces the environmental impact. It comes in sand, black and pearl. Contact: Dudson Australia hospitalitymagazine.com.au

management

Get training online with ease of webinars

The HMDA is the professional development arm of the Club Managers’ Association Australia (CMAA) serving management in the wider Hospitality Industry ‘I have benefited both personally and professionally in my career through education and training. HMDA offers all managers that same opportunity’

Easily accessible and instantly available - webinars offer a valuable and simple opportunity for getting some training in, says Ken Burgin. GOOD, FAST and low cost. That’s what our customers want with food and drinks, and that’s how we like our service delivery - the fridge repair guy, the menu printer and the butcher. Now, thanks to the growing popularity of online webinars, or web seminars, training and education can be accessed in the same way – snack size and instantly available at your premises. Most of us appreciate the benefits of ongoing training in some form or another - in new skills, smarter ways of running a business, managing staff, increasing profits! A webinar offers us a learning environment that is instantly available; no need to move from the office, you can watch by yourself, or gather with the kitchen staff, marketing team or waiters, according to the topic. Since our monthly webinar series with Hospitality magazine commenced, there’s been a fantastic response from people around the country. Hundreds have tuned in on their PC either at the time of the webinar or, if life gets in the way, have watched a replay at a time that suited – just like TV now lets you watch at the scheduled time, or catch up later. It’s amazing how many people like to tune in late at night when the day’s activities are behind them. The first webinar this year was on the topic ‘Kitchen Cost Control’, where we went through dozens of ways to improve purchasing, recipe costing, menu design, stock control, staff rosters and production systems – the feedback was most encouraging, like “Thank you for a great hour of prompts, reminders and new info. Really well prepared and delivered. I look forward to including staff for future webinars.” Next up was the session on ‘Recruitment and Retention of Young Staff’ with JF Celerier from Nathania Springs Receptions in Melbourne. Managing employees is always a challenge, and this session on recruitment provided great ideas which work in the ‘real world’ of a busy venue. Effective cost cutting across any business, in any way possible, is always an objective. Our session last month brought us Ben Pearson, head of innovations and sustainability at the AVANA

Group with an excellent webinar on ‘20 Ways to Cut Water, Gas and Electricity Costs’. Ben’s very practical presentation offered some outstanding tips and opportunities – all for just one hour of time, as the webinar attendees sat back with a coffee and listened in. This month we shift gears to a webinar on ‘Great Ways to Use Photos For Marketing your Hospitality Business’, with many practical tips on promoting the visual side of your café, bar, hotel or restaurant. In the following months, there will be more webinars on staff management, menu marketing, protecting your online reputation, customer service, sales techniques and event promotion. If you have a topic you’re keen to hear more about, please send your request through Hospitality magazine, or Profitable Hospitality. So how does the technical side of a webinar work? On an email promoting the webinar, or the relevant page of the host website you’ll find a registration link. Click on this and complete the form, with your name, email and a few details about location or business. There may also be a question about the topic, to provide the organisers with information about what you most want to hear about. You will receive an email confirming your registration, so make sure it does not end up in your spam or junk folder. This reminder email has a link to download and start the webinar software. A separate screen opens on your computer - just like a browser page, but live. You can now watch and listen to the content with your PC speakers or a headset – a bit like watching a Powerpoint. Ask all the questions you want – take it from me, presenters love questions. They give an opportunity to cover the practical side of the topic being presented – the more the better. If you have a modern PC or Mac with speakers and an internet connection, you’re ready to go. If it’s your first time on a webinar, allow five minutes to get set up and ready. Like the first time you use a new gadget, allow a few minutes for practice – second time around it’s a breeze. Webinars definitely do not require you to be ‘techie’.

‘It’s amazing how many people like to tune in late at night when the day’s activities are behind them.’

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

Ralph Kober Executive Officer

DID YOU KNOW?.... If you are a Chef, a F&B or Catering Manager, a Hotel Manager or a manager within a hospitality venue you are eligible to join Australia’s premier hospitality management association, the CMAA, & take advantage of a range of education opportunities, representation, and networking with similar professionals. Go to www.cmaa.asn.au to find out more.

JULY Food & Beverage Workshop July 25 OR Webinar Series July 25 (start) - September 5

AUGUST ADVANCED Online Marketing Workshop August 8 OR Webinar Series August 8 (start) - September 27 Australasian Gaming Expo - AGE 2012 Conference (presented by HMDA) Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour August 21-22

SEPTEMBER Regional Sales & Marketing Summit Armidale City Bowling Club & Saumarez Homestead, Armidale September 18-20 Go to www.cmaa.asn.au and click on the CMDA tile.

THE CMAA GROWS THE PEOPLE WHO GROW YOUR BUSINESS For further information: Ph: 02 97464199

See you at the next webinar! Check profitablehospitality.com or hospitalitymagazine.com.au for the latest topics and times. To download past webinars head to either of these sites.

E: training@cmaa.asn.au W: www.cmaa.asn.au

hospitality | june 2012

management/comment

doctorhospitality What’s the best way to increase beer prices without upsetting customers? Presentation has a psychological effect on perceived value. Attractive glassware and quality beer mugs sell the idea that you’re getting something more – this is often done well with craft beers. Cold, frosty glasses add further appeal. Make sure the bar has a TV or two, a range of good ‘free’ snacks, and let the customer control the remote. Barley prices and energy costs have risen and beer is going to cost more – some ‘business education’ for customers is unavoidable. Consider having one or two selections at a reduced rate to keep people happy while leaving other brands at appropriate price points for the rest of your business. What’s your opinion of using online recruitment for a small cafe? On the one hand you may be swamped with applicants, many of whom will be unqualified. Some would need to relocate and may waste your time if they’re not serious. But you will reach many people beyond the circulation of your local paper. If you’re going to use an online recruitment service have a direct, concise ad with specific information about the position, and prepare to invest some time. Set very clear rules about experience, location and residence. Compare the results with what you’ve done before. Our sommelier insists her job should allow at least one day a week for wine tasting and industry visits. Is this standard? Will this be positive or negative for your business? A sommelier is expected to maintain a certain amount of professional contact and to stay current with the industry, but personal ambitions need to be balanced with those of the restaurant. Some of these wine events should be happening at your premises. Does she have the skills to organise them? A new staff member should be modest with their demands, showing how their skills can build sales and customer numbers. When she’s shown this, you’re sure to be more relaxed about professional time off. We have several customers who come to our café and sit on their laptops all morning, enjoying our wi-fi. Should we charge them? Absolutely. And the word “several” implies a few inconsequential coffee drinkers, right? If they’re taking up space, hanging out all day, preventing other customers from eating full meals and using all of your resources, then they need to pay. They can eat lunch or dinner and use your wi-fi for up to 90 minutes, or you can charge them a base hourly fee if they only order coffee. Business people will understand and resource hogs will most likely leave. That’s a good thing. During busy hours, you may not even want a wi-fi option. People who are ready to pay full price for two or more dinners come first. Do you have a question for the good doctor? Send him your queries via Hospitality editor Rosemary Ryan with a quick email to rosemary.ryan@reedbusiness.com.au

hospitality | june 2012

Pretender to the title? Is the high profile Heston Blumenthal really the world’s best chef? Not bloomin’ likely, says our columnist. TIME FOR a reality check. From the other side of the world comes the claim that a certain culinary self-promoter is the world’s best chef. That’s quite some claim. It becomes even more extraordinary when it’s found to be based on the result of a poll conducted by a magazine among what it designates as 800 food experts. The allegedly global supremo is Heston Blumenthal, best known for his molecular gastronomy which distorts the true taste of food and relies as much on the equipment of a chemistry laboratory as on a kitchen with stoves and hotplates. The Restaurant Magazine poll placed two of Blumenthal’s restaurants in its top 15 and thereby led to the dubious conclusion that this makes him the world’s best chef. How does this set him above any of the other chefs who appear in this list purporting to define the world’s 50 best restaurants? And what about the thousands of other dedicated individuals who lack such a high profile? The honour roll is dominated by eateries from Europe and the New World. Australia has only one entry - Quay in Sydney - and the entire Asia Pacific region a mere six inclusions, which says more about the make-up of the judging panel and their need to get out more than the state of the global restaurant industry. Such lists make good headlines but distort the reality of the dining scene. They can also have a detrimental effect by throwing the spotlight on to an infinitesimal section of the industry which tends to be the preserve of the rich and upper echelons of the international celebrity circus. It ignores the fact that our customers, in the main, expect us to provide fully flavoursome food that they can enjoy without feeling they have to ooh and aah at every move. They don’t want their tastebuds trampled on by dishes that aren’t what they seem and which are deconstructed and reconstructed versions of the genuine article. There’s a growing tendency by up-and-comers to be seduced by this handful of “best” chefs and immerse themselves in a world of evaporators, nitrogen, herb scents, and snow, to produce what looks like a bowl of peas but is actually blobs of duck liver. Nowhere was this better illustrated than in a recent televised cooking competition (TV is awash with them) in which a supposedly highly experienced chef produced a seafood course that contained not a single piece of fish, mollusc or crustacean but merely components injected with their flavours. His perplexed fury at scoring a mere two out of 10 was a joy to see and one can only hope he now accepts that punters ordering a fish course expect to see at least some vestige of marine life on their plate. Fortunately we do have many chefs who are aiming for freshness of ingredients that is to preserved, even enhanced, by the simplicity of the cooking. It is these dishes that are best remembered and enjoyed by the majority of diners. The “best chef in the world” would be one who can take a fish fresh from the sea, lightly cook it and serve adorned by leaves or subtle sauce so that its full flavour remains. He/she would be equalled by those who carefully select, handle and prepare a beast or bird and present it unaltered and unadulterated with nothing to detract from its natural taste. The little taverna in Melbourne’s outer suburbs that served the most plump, succulent and juicy grilled quail with simple side salad would rate alongside any “best chef” for the all-round sheer dining pleasure it provided. And no doubt all who eat out have numerous similar memories; eating is about pleasure from food and ambience and these are not derived from luxurious surroundings or chemical wizardry. There’s no doubting Blumenthal’s chef credentials or belief in, and support for, this industry, but the title of “best chef” is too subjective a title to bestow on anyone. Better instead to recognise the thousands of journeymen battling to source the freshest ingredients, who treat them with care and serve them with the simplicity that preserves the purity of flavours. And that, in a world of preservatives, flavour enhancers and the like is something to be honoured – not ice-cream that tastes of bacon and eggs. Now, where’s my bangers and mash? For many years known to Hospitality readers by his nom de plume E S Scoffer, Tony Berry is a former editor of this magazine as well as a restaurant reviewer, chef and restaurateur. He’s also the world’s fourth fastest half-marathoner in his current age group. hospitalitymagazine.com.au

whatsnew

shelfspace 1

1 Sweet as. New to the Australian market is this range of charming moulded sugar products from Can de Suc. Made in France, the range feaures around 20 different moulded shapes from butterflies and love hearts, to birds and teddy bears, in 13 different colours. The products take the humble sugar cube and turn it into a creative part of coffee and tea service that will delight customers. See beautiful-spaces.com.au 2 The fifth taste. Nonna’s Gourmet Sausages and Brookvale Meats has launched the first Australian made umami paste. Nonna’s Umami Paste is made from a mix of all natural products that contain levels of umami. Umami is Japanese for “pleasant savoury taste”, and was discovered by Japanese food technologists over 100 years ago. After eating foods high in umami, the flavour appears to circulate and touch every corner of the mouth, remaining even after swallowing and causing great pleasure sensations to the brain. Nonna’s wanted to capture these great umami

hospitalitymagazine.com.au

tastes, combine them, and use them to great effect. The result was their first umami paste which can be used in cooking to make food burst with flavour. The product’s creator, Andrew Lupton, said the umami paste shouldn’t be used like a typical spread in its own right, but rather as a “highly charged stock cube that will lift a mediocre sauce, stew or spread to new culinary heights”. You can find out more about the product at gourmetsausages.com.au 3 Fast, easy, precise. In the food sector, temperature measurements are taken every day because precise measurement is the only way for you to be able to check and guarantee the quality and freshness of your products. The new Testo 108 promises to make your measuring tasks an easier process and let you concentrate on your day-to-day tasks with confidence. Features include fast, precise measurement, easy to use, with no training costs, waterproof instrument and probe, conforms to HACCP and EN 13485, can be used in harsh working en-

vironments without any problems. Find out more at testoaus.com.au 4 Convenient roasted vegies. From Mars Foodservice comes a new char grilled and roasted vegetable range designed to offer convenience and quality to chefs. The Bamboleo Chargrilled Roasting Range uses top ingredients to deliver a product that can save time across many foodservice operations. It comprises sliced pumpkin, sweet potato and a 40mm vegetable mix containing eggplant, zucchini, diced pumpkin, red capsicum, green capsicum and red Spanish onion. The products have been marinated in Bamboleo’s herb mix before being chargrilled and preserved under light crisp canola oil. They’re designed for a range of applications from being used as sides to accompany main meals in pubs, hotels and restaurants or as a topping for gourmet pizzas. They’re also ideal as a convenient antipasto mix – they can be used straight from the tub or to enhance your own antipasto plate. Find out more at bamboleo.com.au

5 Multi tasking champion. The new HotmixPro Gastro thermal mixer is being positioned as an extra pair of hands in a commercial kitchen with its multi tasking ability to chop, blend, grate, blend, mix, mince, knead, heat and cook. The thermostatically controlled heating system delivers precise temperature control from 25C to 190C. See hotmixpro.com.au 6 Vintage brew. Cascade has released its First Harvest Ale with head brewer Mike Unsworth taking the reins for the first time to brew this 11th anniversary vintage. Regarded as the ‘jewel in the crown’ in the Cascade Brewery Co. range, Cascade First Harvest is a celebration of the freshest and best of the Tasmanian harvest, using the first hops and barley of the season. It was the first beer produced in Australia to use freshly harvested ‘green’ hops in its brew and is still the only one of its type crafted in Tasmania. The hops for the 2012 vintage were picked at Bushy Park Estate in the Derwent Valley. See cascadebreweryco.com.au

hospitality | june 2012

whats on

hospitalitydiary the theme “Improving Profitability in your Changing World”, this inaugural event will coincide with the Australian Hotels Association’s National Awards for Excellence. See hospitalityconference.com.au

JULY 4-6 CMAA Mid Year Conference; Jupiters Casino, Gold Coast. This three day conference by the Club Managers Association Australia is themed “2020 Vision - Strategic Workforce Management”. See cmaa.asn.au

10-13 Fine Food Australia; Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. Australia’s largest hospitality trade event is on again. See finefoodaustralia.com.au

AUGUST 6-7 Lunch!; Royal Hall of Industries. Sydney. A new trade event for Australia aimed at the lunchtime food-to-go market. Find out more at divexhibitions.com.au 27-28 Speciality Food & Drink Fair; Sydney Convention Centre. This new industry trade event will show-

Your brand on the move Continued from page 20 Veith says not taking advantage of packaging as a promotional tool meant a great opportunity was walking out the door with your customers. “It was an underutilised opportunity,” Veith says. “It was a no brainer that we should get our branding on there. And it had to be

OCTOBER

SEPTEMBER

case artisan food and drinks. See specialityfoodanddrinkfair.com.au

3-5 Australian Hospitality Conference; Wrest Point, Hobart. With

eye catching and very much in keeping with the Pie Face brand so it had to be quirky and irreverent, a little bit cheeky.” The latest in packaging technology from Detpak that it believes offers strong marketing opportunities for operators in the pizza market is its new photographic pizza boxes. The new boxes are made using a clay coat paper to give a shiny finish

that can carry a high quality photographic print. “We had a look at pizza boxes in general and they have generally been just functional and not really being used much as a branding tool - they are usually made of a recycled material with a very basic print,” Detpak’s Jones says. “But with the popularity of gourmet pizza chains we wanted to offer a product that could

1-31 The Crave Sydney International Food Festival; Sydney’s annual food and chef focused festival that will again include the exciting World Chef Showcase. See cravesydney.com

help differentiate their offering.” Jones says she foresees pizza companies using the technology to make their brand “come alive”. “I think with a product like a gourmet pizza you have to use quality packaging that supports your premium pizza positioning,” she says. “It’s fresh ingredients, gourmet ingredients, and this works well with photographic food imagery on the product.”

P R O D U C T S 38

hospitality | june 2012

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