HOUND&horse J U LY 2 0 1 9
L I F E S T Y L E
Issue 26
M A G A Z I N E
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Working Equitation "The Fun way to train seriously" D I S C I P L I N E A N D YO U R D O G W I T H M A N DY B A R R E T T S O U P, G L O R I O U S S O U P W I T H C H A R L I E L A K I N R O S E S I N W I N T E R B Y L I N D S AY G R AY
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Hi Everyone,
Editor’s Note
Patience and kindness are so important when dealing with your horse or dog. It is always a good idea to try and see the world from their point of view as it will give you interesting insights into why they may behaving in a certain way. Our dog Guru Mandy Barret discusses how to deal with undesirable behaviour with kindness and reward rather than punishment. Working Equitation is the latest equestrian discipline to be recognised by the South African Equestrian Federation and is the fastest growing equestrian sport worldwide. It is a test of a rider's skill, the training of the horse and encompasses various aspects of dressage which are coupled with a variety of obstacles and a speed test. One of the judging criteria is the overall partnership between the horse and rider. It is refreshing to see this criterion, as a partnership can really only be achieved with trust and patience and kindness are the way to achieve this. Winter is in full swing with crisp days and chilly nights and Charlie Lakin has once again worked his magic with some winter warmer super soup recipes. Lindsay Gray offers advice on how to keep your roses happy and Ginny Scooper, not to be left out on the subject of kindness, deals with the use of the whip. Wrap up warm and we hope you enjoy this month's issue The Editor Hound and Horse Magazine
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WORKING EQUITATION
The World’s Fastest-Growing Horse-Sport
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Working Equitation is the latest hot new equestrian sport to be officially recognized by SAEF (South African Equestrian Federation) as a discipline. Riders across the world are taking up this exciting sport that tests the skill and technique of the rider. The training of the horse but most importantly the PARTNERSHIP between horse and rider.
It concentrates on the ability of a horse and rider partnership to negotiate various types of obstacles encountered on farms or ranches. So, even a rider who takes their horse for a hack may well encounter these obstacles, and would benefit to add this Discipline to their training.
Working Equitation evolved to showcase of the skills in horsemanship needed on the cattle farms of Portugal, Spain, and the South of France. These European stockmen have a long history of training their horses in the Classical Equitation manner and Working Equitation has been a sport in Europe for the past 30 years. In 2004, Portugal, Spain, France, and Italy came together to form the World Association for Working Equitation (WAWE)which attracted a host of other countries, Germany, Brazil, USA, Australia, Czech Republic and Mexico to name a few . There 19 Member Nations overall, soon to be joined by Canada, New Zealand, and South Africa.
Working Dressage
Working Equitation is not only a sport, but also an emerging training method for any “working” horse, that is ridden for any type of equestrian activity. The international slogan is -
“WORKING EQUITATION – the FUN way to train SERIOUSLY” 2 •
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Working Equitation competitions consist of 4 separate Phases:
Working Dressage is distinctly different from FEI or “Competition” Dressage, in that highly-expressive gaits, are NOT the criteria. Two important aspects revealing the WELFARE of the horse, primarily, are required. The first is the PARTNERSHIP between horse and rider, where an understanding between both, scores higher marks. The second is the SHAPE of the horse, where a rounded top-line – giving the best weight-carrying posture for the horse, and where spinal processes are not compressed and pinching nerves – combined with lateral flexibility in both directions is most desired. Working Dressage promotes physical soundness, mental well-being through relaxation, lateral suppleness (bending), longitudinal suppleness (roundness), and progressive conditioning. In Working Dressage, the 5 basic yields are taught earlier, but a correctlyprepared horse in terms of partnership and shape should have no difficulty in achieving the yields, given that all 5 yields are needed to be able to properly execute the Ease-of-Handling phase.
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Ease-of-Handling and Manageability (Obstacles) This involves a course of obstacles that are commonly encountered during a typical day in the life of a working horse and rider. It includes a variety of bridges, gates, ditches, banks, stockpens, corridors, ringing bells, lifting objects (water jugs, sacks, or garments), side-passing, a small jump, slalom (real trees are substituted with poles or pot-plants), and picking up, using, and returning a pole called a garoccha that – in the arena – is used to “spear” a ring off a stylised bull’s back. At the lowest levels walk or walk and trot through the obstacles is required. At medium levels, cantering is introduced with changes of lead progressing from the simple change through a trot then through the walk and eventually flying changes. Some obstacles are crossed only at a walk, like the bridge that is executed at the walk for ALL levels. The judging criteria once again stresses, PARTNERSHIP and understanding between horse and rider; secondly, calmness; thirdly, correct shape of the horse; and fourthly, PRECISION as opposed to speed. Speed (Obstacles) The Speed Phase is the most spectacular phase of the competition. It is scored purely on time and
performed at higher levels. A horse in PARTNERSHIP with an UNDERSTANDING rider and a high level of balance and collection can effectively complete this test. The rider chooses the gait at which the horse is most comfortable. A slower gait with a balanced and collected horse can sometimes be faster than an unbalanced horse attempting the obstacle at a faster gait. Cattle Handling This is a test of how CALMLY and effectively the horse/rider partnership can separate one cow from a small herd of cattle kept in a holding area, and move it into a 3-sided pen some 50m away from the herd. This phase is for the Expert and Master Levels. The cattle are numbered, and each participant draws a number. It is a team event with 3 or 4 participants working together. The individual that draws the number is the only one who may approach the herd. The other team members only help to guide the separated animal into the pen. A time limit is given for each participant to complete the test.
So who can take part? Any person with a sound and fit horse or pony and that has neat serviceable tack and clothing, including a hardhat or a breed-specific form of headwear approved by the SAEF may participate.
“WORKING EQUITATION – An Equestrian Sport for EVERYONE” All of the currently-registered Working Equitation Clubs in KZN offer free Individual Membership, to keeping the sport affordable and accessible to ANYONE. Take ACTION. Get in contact with a club near you to take part in one of their Clinics or Training Days or find out how to become an official of this exciting new discipline. Even officials who also wish to ride at ANY level in the sport are encouraged. This is a sport of EQUALITY OF OPPORTUNITY. Contact: KwaZulu-Natal Working Equitation Association: email or WhatsApp the KZN WEA President: Wayne Lourens – ingwenet@iuncapped.co.za / 072 288 0314 or the Secretary: Kathy (Kat) Herrington – aloeridge138@iuncapped.co.za / 072 156 1631.
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Hard Ground?
KZN’s beautiful dry winters can entice you out of the arena, in favour of an out-ride, but keep in mind that the dry conditions can make for very hard ground. The lack of moisture in the soil, coupled with the die-off in ground cover, can make the going unforgiving. This can lead to bruised soles and other concussive injuries and aggravate pre-existing conditions like arthritis The horse’s forelimbs bear most of the weight and during work, the lower limbs continually adjust to cope with the surface. The design of the lower leg is set up to adapt to footing and aid shock absorption, but the natural shock absorbers can become compromised through repetitive trauma. Work on hard ground is thought to be a significant factor in lower limb injury.
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How can you reduce lower limb injury to the lower leg?
support. These structures are particularly vulnerable when the going is hard.
Boots
Stay off the hard surfaces
Boots and bandages can help to provide a stabilizing factor and offer support to the joints and associated ligaments. Boots can aid to reduce the side to side movements of the pastern joint as your horse adjusts to harder going. Boots also provide protection against any injuries such as brushing and overreaching that can be caused when a horse is coping with hard and uneven ground.
If you are riding out, don’t trot and canter when you can hear that the ground is hard. Stick to the grassy verges, try to ride where there is ground- cover, Horses that don’t like hard going will naturally head for the grass, given a choice. Avoid bruised soles by not riding over stony patches
Hosing
If you feel changes in your horse’s lower leg such as heat or filling, hose, bandage and stay off the hard surfaces. If you see or feel changes in your horse's gait, such as a shortening of stride, don’t hesitate to call your vet.
Hose your horse's legs after exercise for 20 mins to reduce any inflammation associated with the distal sesamoid ligaments and the flexor tendons which attach to the pastern and foot and provide
Be observant
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C A N I N E Myth Buster Myth - Discipline and Your Dog
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Myth Busted – Punishing your dog “when caught in the act” is a good thing. Google “how to discipline your dog” and you will be sent links from dog trainers all over the world, explaining how to correctly discipline your dog. Many speak of catching your dog “in the act”, and explain how this will teach your dog what is “wrong”. This would mean that you are “right”, which then leaves us with a very archaic view, where one party is entirely correct, and the other, shamefully wrong. As humans evolve, we realise that this is not the ultimate solution and that there are many ways to be right or wrong, depending mostly on your point of view. Regarding animals, we now know that punishing behaviors because we don’t like them, leads to issues like fear and distrust, which may lead to future problems. You may think that your dog stealing your shoe is naughty, but this would fall under totally normal dog behaviours. You may see his running off as defiance, or willfulness, but it is in fact a normal response of most predator animals to hang onto their catch, and dropping feels like a threat to actual survival. Handing over the prize takes either trust or fear. Trust that you will share or return the shoe. Trust that survival is not threatened. Alternatively, fear of safety and survival may lead to surrendering the item by offering distraction to the dangerous pursuer, allowing for an escape.
by Mandy Barrett
what normal behaviours are. Dogs will dig, chew, jump, steal food, growl over resources and stomp through the house full of mud. Shouting and smacking your dog for behaviours that are normal will result in creating fear and distrust, utlimately breaking down the relationship. Keeping valuable items safe from dogs, means keeping them out of reach. Instead of chasing your dog, grabbing the stolen shoe, smacking them and saying NO, try calling your dog, offering a treat and replacement toy, saving the shoe and making a fun game for your dog. A common response to this kind of training step is “But am I not teaching my dog that stealing a shoe results in a treat?”. Well, no. Postive is NOT persmissive! You are teaching your dog to return to you with a valuable item, hand it over, and receive safety and trust as the reward. Does this not seem better than being a bully, scaring your dog and teaching him that you will steal prized items and you are a threat. This will lead to hidng items away and guarding them from you and others. It will also teach that your calling of your dogs name is a precursor of violence and anger and this will not encourage a solid recall! The Dog Guru Behaviorist and Trainer
You may have seen these behaviours in wild life documentaries, where the larger lion will chase away the smaller jackal and then enjoy the prey. You may have witnessed the trust exchange between children or lovers, sharing a packet of sweets. The question you need to ask yourself is do you want to be the sharing person, or the angry lion, and how do you want your dog to react to you– in fear, or trust? Understanding that dogs do not perform behaviours out of wilfulness, criminal planning, theft, or a will to take over the world, is the first step. Punishment only serves to create fear. Children who have been severely punished as youngsters are now being counselled to deal with abuse, and things like beating errant wives for bad cooking are seen as criminal offences. So why is it still seen as okay to punish animals for behaviours that are totally normal, when management and proper boundaries are easy enough to set up and maintain? Establish a firm understanding of
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with Charlie Lakin
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First of all, not food related, but does anyone know a company that fits Central Heating? It might be cold in the UK but at least we’ve got central heating and damm do I miss it, and so do my toes! The other thing I noticed that isn’t big in these parts is soup. My love for baking means I have always got some tasty bread kicking about and this cold weather is just screaming out for a great hearty soup. As a young trainee chef soup was one of my jobs, big Dave Elinton and the boss Ken Mattews were proper old school. I was in my mid-teens in the early 90’s, while these gents were in their prime in the late 70’s in some of the best restaurants in the North of England. They insisted on perfect cuts for the broths and chowders, minestrone (which was a nightmare because of the mini pancetta balls they insisted on the same size as a pea) and the garnishes for the volute. Yeah it was an old school kitchen, they did 6 •
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the whole massive A la Carte classic dishes, but damm they were tasty. (My first introduction to Aromat was at the Brompton Forge when I was 15. Didn’t know what the hell it was then and never saw it again until I visited SA). They did however teach me that a good soup is easy but a great soup takes skill, and is one of the true signs of a good chef. Soup is simple in terms of ingredients but the fulfilment of all the senses is hard to achieve, and can be quite complex with texture, seasoning and acidity, however the flavour profiles that can be achieved are insane. Amazingly the weather is also a big part of that sensation. Just the other week I was judging the end of year meals at Fusion School of Cookery and one of the young Chefs made a very tasty butternut and chicken soup. I actually remarked that if it had been the day before, which was very chilly and overcast, it would have got a point higher. It just suited that weather as it was a rich deep flavour, smooth and creamy in texture and gave a great sense of “central heating”. In contrast, on a red-hot summer day a fresh, acidic, rich but still light gazpacho is a perfect way to chill at lunch, both best served with some tasty freshly baked bread. Soup at home is definitely a great way of using up vegetables or a left over chicken carcass. The same applies to a certain point in a professional kitchen. Soup for me is like the stock pan, and should never be used as a dustbin for scraps. (But to my own shame back in the day, and many other restaurants, kitchen soups are made from left
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over Sunday lunch vegetables or the mirepoix is made up of trimmings. This is fine in a puree or volute style soup, and treated with respect they still make a tasty soup but the best and freshest ingredients are still the best way forward). Soup Recipes, hmmm I could write a book, maybe 2 to be a bit big headed but us Yorkshire folk love a good soup and a roll or a bacon buttie. Firstly it is important to share a basic soup recipe, a good basic vegetable puree soup. This will give you the basis to experiment and build your own special flavour soup. It is also important to understand how vegetables work in soup. For example vegetables like potatoes, squashes, parsnips or dried beans will give a smooth velvety soup with just a hand blender. Other root vegetables will need a long cooking time to produce the same texture unless you have a high powered industrial blender. Potatoes are also useful when working with high moisture vegetables with little body like celery, spinach, cabbage, leeks, onions etc. Working on the same amount of vegetable but using some potato to thicken. (Add any green ingredients just before blending to keep the colour). Mushrooms will give you a coarse deep rich textured soup, even after passing through a sieve, (this is why a high powered blender is a must in the professional kitchen) add a touch of dry sherry and BOOM, you are in heaven. Then there are your other vegetables like tomatoes, aubergine and the softer squashes. They benefit from being roasted first to lose some moisture and
intensify their flavour. While roasting it is a great time to add spices or hard herbs like thyme, sage or rosemary. So on to the Basic Soup Mix and Instructions. This recipe will make between 1 ½L 2L of soup depending on the texture of the vegetables. Serves 8. 1 large onion 2 sticks celery 4 cloves garlic 50g butter or 1tbsp oil (I prefer butter as it tastes far better) 500g vegetables 1L light chicken or vegetable stock ¼ cup cream to add a touch of happiness. Gently sweat the onion, celery and garlic in the butter. This would be the time to add ginger, chilli or spices. (Recommend crushed whole for a fresh flavour and as the soup is passed it won’t leave flavour bombs). Give this a few minutes then add the vegetable of your choice and cook for another 5 minutes with the lid on, stirring it a couple of times, then add the stock, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender. At this point add any fresh herbs or soft leaves like spinach and cook for about 30 seconds then puree the beejesus out of it. While blending add cream and extra stock to thin, if necessary, season with salt and pepper. Then pass the soup through a sieve for a smoother texture and serve immediately or even store in the fridge for 4 days or freeze in portions for 1 month. So that’s the whole method out the way, time for some recipes.
Potato, Onion, Wild Garlic, Sour Cream, Toasted seeds. 250g onion 2 sticks celery
Chopped chives Follow the basic method, add the honey while blending. Mix some chives through the crème fraiche and spoon a good dollop on top to serve. Works great as a topping with Butternut or Pumpkin too.
6 cloves garlic 50g butter 200g potato 2 sprigs thyme 1L stock 30g wild garlic Lemon juice Salt and pepper Maybe a little extra butter to finish 8 tbsp sour cream 100g toasted mixed seeds Few wild garlic flowers With this soup the key is to cook the onion until ultra-soft. To serve top with a spoonful of sour cream, a sprinkle of seeds and garlic flowers. If you have some chive or wild garlic oil a little drizzle will be a nice touch. Carrot, honey & ginger soup with chive crème Fraiche. 1 large onion 2 stick celery 4 cloves garlic 2 inch piece fresh ginger 500g carrots 1L stock
¼ cup honey 8 tbsp crème fraiche
Zucchini, Rosemary soup with Chorizo and sun blush tomatoes. 1 large onion 2 sticks celery 4 cloves garlic ¼ cup picked rosemary 50g butter 500g zucchini 1L stock 1 punnet cherry tomatoes Drizzle of olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped fine Pinch of chopped thyme Diced and roasted Chorizo Halve the cherry tomatoes, place on a tray and season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with chopped garlic, thyme, drizzle with oil and place in a cool oven for 4 hours to dry out. For the rest of the soup, follow the basic method but give the zucchini a good salting first to avoid bitterness. Once pureed and seasoned, scatter the chorizo an a few tomato halves on top and serve.
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Give A Dog A Bone? Bones are a great source of minerals and other nutrients. Chewing on bones stimulates saliva enzymes and aids in the prevention of doggy tooth plaque and gum disease.
44126T Kuda sport horse AD 148x210 FA1.indd 1
BUT! It is vitally important that you give your pooch the right kind of bone. Poultry, pork or cooked bones of any kind are a big No No! They splinter into shards that can cause choking and serious damage to your dog’s throat and intestines. It’s best to give a bone to your dog after a meal as you don’t want your dog to ingest too much bone. Dispose of a bone after three or four days. Bones should be larger than the length of the dog’s muzzle so it will be impossible to swallow whole. A beef shank bone is a good example of the type of bone to give to a large dog. If you are worried there are many commercially-available chew toys and simulated bones that are made for dogs of all sizes.
11/22/18 10:14
Puppies Thrive when Exercise is Age Appropriate A puppy is not a little big dog.
Puppies growth plates and bones are made up completely differently to an adult dog. Fact: A puppy’s immature, young body cannot endure excessive amounts of exercise stress. They will suffer longterm negative effects! Puppies have"puppy bones". This means that the bones are still developing and are not as strong as an adult’s bones. Puppy bones are softer, less dense and less stable than adult bones. Puppy muscles are not bulgingly huge and growth plates are thick and spongy. The structures surrounding the puppy’s skeleton strengthen as they grow in relation to their bones.
home, bones are the foundation of your puppy’s body. Your puppy will rely upon his bones for the rest of his life. They provide structural attachment for muscles, to create movement and protect vital organs.
Why bother with age-appropriate exercise? The most important reason to support your puppy’s growth and development is to ensure his body reaches maturity in the best shape possible. This includes structures that work with your puppy’s bones – i.e. keeping the muscle and tendon attachments functioning optimally to move the skeleton effortlessly.
Supraspinatus
Mixing concrete! When mixed in the correct proportions of cement, sand, aggregate, and water, it delivers maximum strength and durability. BUT incorrectly mixed and not cured long enough before exposing it to the elements or the pressure of a load, it will break down. Like concrete is the foundation of your
Imagine muscles too bulky, heavy and too strong pulling hard on this large surface area of the softer shoulder blade that is not yet dense or strong enough to handle the force. Muscle strength can cause small partial fissures in bone and affect the development of its adhesion to the shoulder. These problems only raise their head when the puppy is older and struggling in a jump or tight turn. Similarly, weak muscles leave these softer bones and their growth plates vulnerable. As they offer little stabilising force. These principles apply throughout your puppy’s body. Puppies cannot grow up in a bubble! They need exercise to grow up strong. They need exercise that is suitable for your puppy's age and structure, not simply the same exercise as an adult dog.
Immature, developing bones being less dense lack structural integrity and cannot withstand multiple stress which can be incurred during excessive exercise or by overdeveloped, strong and heavy muscle. It is essential that a puppy’s muscles and tendons develop in the appropriate proportional rate to their skeleton. What can we compare this to?
Infraspinatus
Unlike inanimate concrete, bone is a dynamic, living tissue. It undergoes growth, remodelling, and assists in homeostasis. Bones are there to maintain stability within the body when dealing with external changes in the environment outside the body.
Puppy activity and exercise must be Age Appropriate. Early onset microinjuries will potentially disrupt optimal bone development and cause longterm negative effects. Take a look at the Micro CT scan of a Guinea Pig’s bones. Granted they are not puppy’s bones, but the principle remains unchanged – the bones are thinner and less dense in a young animal than in an adult.
create movement (e.g. bringing the front leg forward in landing after a jump) and provide stability, notice the large surface area they impact on the shoulder blade.
Make sure your puppy grows up strong and keep in mind, he is not a little big dog. Here is the shoulder blade showing two muscles (supraspinatus – commonly injured – and infraspinatus) that attach (red dots) to its surface. See how the large surface area these muscles use to attach to the bone in order to manipulate shoulder directionality. When these muscles contract to exert the force necessary to
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Many gardeners still enjoy their roses, despite the shift to less thirsty, indigenous plants. Although roses do need regular attention, there is no need to pamper them unnecessarily, provided that you get the basics right. Experienced rose growers know exactly how to care for their roses during winter, so this article is really for newer rose growers as a guide for the cooler months. Watering
By the time you read this, it will be time to prune but, for next year, bear in mind that if your roses are looking healthy in autumn and early winter and are still flowering, then continue your weekly watering programme, ensuring that each bush receives a deep watering that penetrates to the roots. Roses that are heavily underplanted require more watering, so you might want to rethink what you use as a groundcover around these thirsty plants. Although the days might still be warm, the temperature drops quite quickly in the late afternoon so always ensure that winter watering (including vegetable gardens) is completed by 14h00. Once your roses have finished flowering, you can happily stop watering until after their winter prune. Pruning Winter pruning usually takes place from mid-July as the days become longer. Depending on where you live and whether the possibility exists of a late frost, you will want to prune from mid-July through to early August to ensure a good flowering in October. It is not the end of the world if your 10 •
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by Lindsay Gray
pruning is delayed slightly. As rose expert, Ludwig Taschner, points out, if we don’t prune the roses they will prune themselves. Fresh growth will shade out smaller twigs and branches until they dry out. The bush will throw new, strong flowering stems, but it will also develop lots of short, blind shoots that make it look unattractive, especially in a mixed border of roses. So, while the unpruned plant will become a ‘stately’ specimen, he says, it will also have smaller flowers, whereas a bush that has been moderately to heavily pruned will produce a better quality of bloom. Modern techniques suggest that a medium prune is far more beneficial to the plant and will ensure strong new growth in spring that will bear large flowers. Medium pruning: remove old stems that are inactive as well as any inhibiting inside growth. Try and retain three to five main stems and reduce by half some of the younger stems and any side growth. Roses need as much foliage as possible to encourage flowering. By shortening the side stems, they will provide lots of new foliage that will, in turn, strengthen the root system and the plant’s overall health. Heavy pruning: Very tall roses (Spire and Panarosa species) require a heavier pruning with the shrub cut down to chest height, around 1 – 1,2 metres from the ground. Scrambling roses such as My Granny and my favourite, Deloitte & Touche, and the Flower Carpet varieties can be cut back hard and their side stems pruned
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back. They will develop healthy new foliage on the side stems which will kickstart the first flowering. Standard bushes also need to be cut back quite severely to retain their rounded shape. How to prune Sharp, clean tools are a must for any pruning. I am fastidious about the condition of my secateurs and each of my gardeners has their own pair which they guard jealously. For rose pruning you need a really sharp pair of secateurs to give a quick, clean cut and then a pair of loppers with long handles to get into those awkward spaces and because some old rose wood can be jolly tough to cut with secateurs. Pay attention to the general shape of the rose bush and to the species you are pruning, as mentioned earlier. The aim of pruning roses before spring is to encourage maximum new foliage as roses will not flower well if they do not have a good cover of foliage. Make the cut just above the node (or eye) on each stem, at the point where you would like to encourage new growth. Once you have attended to the main stems, you can then remove any weak, dead or diseased material. In Ludwig’s latest newsletter, he advises South African rose growers to effect a straight cut across the stem and not a slanted cut as we were always taught. He mentions that the slanted cut is recommended in Europe where the stems are still soft and are not yet hardwood as in this part of the world. There is no need to seal a cut as rotting seldom takes place on hard wood, however it is crucial to cut just above the node and not halfway between two nodes, otherwise you are guaranteed to see die-back on the stem as the piece of stem blackens and dies because it is no longer supported by the plant. Spraying after pruning Spraying after the winter prune is also not necessary unless your plant is covered with scale, in which case you can treat the bush with an organic insect spray that suffocates the scale – Ludwig’s Insect Spray and Oleum both work well. If your roses have remained healthy all through the summer months, they should not have scale on them. Enriching the plants’ roots Now here is something new to me. We are always told that one should leave a rose’s roots well alone. Ludwig advises that the soil around the rose’s roots should be loosened and even cut to encourage new root growth at the
end of the plant’s dormant phase. Add compost and perhaps some washed river sand to the area, especially if the soil is heavily compacted, to encourage new roots. At this point you could add the controlled release fertiliser, VIGOLONGER, which feeds the rose over an 8-month period, or a fertiliser high in nitrogen and potassium, such as 6.1.5. Watering after pruning Any pruning stimulates new growth and water plays a large part in this process. Water your rose bushes deeply once a week. Without this water, the initial growth may be weak and susceptible to the last few bouts of cold weather. Transplanting your roses Poor soil – and light - conditions result in weak root growth which, in turn, results in poorly performing roses. If enriching the soil, as described above, does not do the the trick, then you may have no option but to transplant the rose, or roses, to a more suitable area. Transplanting should be done while the plant is dormant but after the danger of any frost occurring. Prepare the new hole in a sunny spot that has good soil, and enrich the soil with quality compost. Do not add granular fertiliser at this point, however, a coated pellet such as the VIGOLONGER, can be used. First, prune off a good percentage of the leaves and all the remaining flowers from the plant, but leave some foliage to assist with the photosynthesis process. Don’t worry about shaping the plant properly at this stage. Using a sharp spade and working at least 400 – 500mm away from the main stem, dig straight down around the rose bush in a circular movement and cut the aerial roots. Gently lift the plant – do not tear it out of the soil – and place it in its new position. The bud union should be just below the level of the soil. Cover the roots with the enriched soil and press it down firmly with your hand closed in a fist, and not your big foot! Make a slight well around the plant and water it well to ensure that the water reaches right down to root level. This can be repeated daily for the first week, after which resume watering once a week until the rains start. Once the plant is settled and has begun to shoot, you can attend to any errant stems that need shaping.
The School of Garden Design offers a range of in-house and distance learning courses. Visit our website www.schoolofgardendesign.com or email: info@schoolofgardendesign.com for further details contact Lindsay Gray: 082 449 9237 The School of Garden Design
Happy Rose Growing!
HOUND & HORSE
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A division of
Equipagé. Belong with us. A unique partnership. Your equine insurance partner. Mortality Cover Loss of Use Cover Critical Care Cover VIP Equine Veterinary Insurance Policy Public Liability Cover
Saddle & Tack Cover Horsebox Cover Personal Accident Cover Unity Health Cover for Grooms Hollard Pet Insurance
To be part of Hollard’s Equipagé family, contact us on: Tel: 011 468-4235 or 083 377 2705 Email: info@equipage.co.za www.equipage.co.za
Equipagé is underwritten by The Hollard Insurance Company Limited (Reg. No. 1952/003004/06), an authorised Financial Services Provider. Further information on benefits, exclusions and limitations can be found at www.equipage.co.za. Unity Health Cover for Grooms is underwritten by Constantia Insurance Company limited (Reg. No. 1952/001514/06), an authorised Financial Services Provider.
Ask Ginny Scooper
Livery Yard
Dear Ginny,
Full or self livery available in Drummond.
To whip or not to whip? That is my question.
A peaceful yard with large paddocks available in a beautiful, tranquil setting. Grass arena with superb footing and a super sand arena that is slightly larger than a 60 x 20m. Jumps and a lunge ring available. Please contact Ryan: 073 451 7000
Yours, Interested from Ixopo Dear Interested, The long, the short, the when to, and the when to withhold, with regards to the use of the whip, are questions that have kept many equestrians awake till late into the night. Know the rules This is of utmost importance. Each discipline has a specific rule set for the type of whip that is permissible. A quick session on the coach with the rule book will clarify what you can and cannot carry. Adhere to the rules, as not only will you face a public elimination by the judges but you will have to endure the raised eyebrows and chuckling of your fellow equestrians. Imagine what would be said if you carried a showing cane into the show jumping. Know what is appropriate.
Employment Wanted Looking for work in the equine field, I have completed a 6 months horsemanship course & offer backing of horses, outrides, basic teaching, basic schooling of horses, Natural horsemanship join up, etc. Grooms work cleaning stables, stud work, and foaling horses down, etc. Contact Colleen Herbert on 066 450 7332 or email colleenherbert18@ gmail.com
Horse For Sale Ride high in comfort, style and elegance on this regal 16.h bay Warmblood x Friesian gelding, he has the presence of a 17 hh horse. Reserve champion horse at the recent Bloemfontein show. Rising 8, well-defined paces and a willing working temperament. A give-away at R30g due to owner‘s failing health. Paula 084 4609111.
This goes without saying, excessive use of the whip is never acceptable, no matter what the circumstance. You will face suspension and a fine for such behaviour. Chasing fellow competitors around the 3* Eventing Riders briefing with a lunge whip could turn into a riot, but cracking your Australian stock whip in the Dressage warm up arena may result in eviction. Know How No whip should be used overhand. No rider may carry two whips in competition, this will not keep your horse straight or off both legs. The use of the whip should be kept to a minimum, less is more in the horse world. The Dressage whip should only be used with a light flick of the wrist, like a gentle tickle from a feather duster. Yours Ever Ginny P.S. Lastly darling, remember the whip is an artificial aid and using it in other circumstances is entirely at your discretion #justsaying
HHOOUUNNDD && HHOORRSSEE
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in July DRESSAGE July
27 - ESP Winter Dressage, Sutton Place Stables. Contact: Karen 082 459 7551 29 - 30 - KZN Dressage Initiative, DSC. Ringside Seminar with FEI 3* Judge & Coach Contact: Kristina: 082 375 3175 Aug 03 - Equistar KZN Champs Warm-Up, DSC. Contact: Heather 072 107 6657 04 - Top Hat, Training, DSC Contact: Heather 072 107 6657 17 - KZN Dressage Champs, DSC.
SHOWJUMPING July
13 - 14 - Triple P Avalon Aviation Winter Classic, DSC Contact: Deidre 082 653 1511 20 - FEI Jumping Challenge KZN, Legs 1 & 2, DSC Contact: Di Baxter - 083 225 2261 27 - 28 - Pre SA Champs with Kevin Spratley, DSC Contact: shows@shongweniclub.co.za 28 - Training, Sutton Place Stables, Summerveld Contact: Karen 082 459 7551 Aug 07 - 11 - The Shongweni Festival, DSC. Highway Shows including SA Adult Champs Contact: 083 655 4465 17-18 - Buffelsbosch, Lidgetton. Contact: Ryan - 083 434 2421 24 - 25 - FEI Jumping Challenge KZN, Leg 3, DSC Contact: Di Baxter - 083 225 2261
EVENTING Aug
03 - 04 - Dolcoed Ev 60-CCN2* Inc. Sanesa Q6 & KZN Champs Contact: Rhiaan - 082 805 1240 WhatsApp only 30 - 01 - Shongweni Ev 60-CCI 1* Africa Nations Cup & CCI 3* Durban Shongweni Club
July 19 - 21 - U19 Barbarian Tour, Mooi River 25th July to 4th August – U16 Tour to UK Aug
MULTI-DISCIPLINE
4 - 11 - U14 Tour to Zambia
27- 28 - Sanesa. Buffelsbosch, Lidgetton. Prix Caprilli, Dressage, Equitation, Working Hunter, Handy Hunter, Show Jumping, Performance Riding, Working Riding, In-Hand Utility. Contact: kznfinance@sanesa.co.za
9 - 11 - IPT, Bishopstowe
30 - Berg Show, Winterton. Show Jumping, Working Riding Contact: Amy - 082 450 0089
WESTERN MOUNTED GAMES July
20 - 21- Training Clinic, Turn & Burn, Lions River Contact: Candice - 084 668 3737 Aug 03 - 04 - Training Weekend Turn & Burn, Lions River. Contact: Candice - 084 668 3737
POLO July
12 - 14 - Gingindhlovu (2 & 6 Goal) Aug 02 - 04 - Shongweni (2 & 6 Goal) 23 - 25 - Lions River (2 & 4 Goal) 30 - 01 - Gunsmoke
17- 18 - Shongweni.
TENTPEGGING July
13 - Okusha Club Competition. Jnr & Snr Contact: Dalene - 082 824 2914 Aug 03 - Vryheid Landbou Club Jnr& Snr Comp. Contact: Antin - 084 247 0018 17 - Okusha Club Competition. Jnr & Snr Contact: Dalene - 082 824 2914 24 - KZN Champs, Jnr & Snr, Newcastle Contact: Roland - 084 419 8332
VAULTING July
21 - Sanesa Q3, Invergale Yard D93 Paddock Rd, Summerveld Contact: Shelley Paveley: vaulting@sanesa.co.za
ENDURANCE July
POLOCROSSE
02 - 04 - Fauriesmith 200
Lions River Club practice every Sat 2pm. All Welcome Contact: Belinda - 082 401 4361
“The toughest race on the calender!”
HORSES for sale
B
Buying a horse can be a fun, exciting process, but it can also be frustrating. Here are 12 tips that will help you find your perfect equestrian partner. 1. Draw up a list Have a very clear idea of what you are looking for. Age, size, experience. Draw up a list of what you would like to achieve with your potential horse. Would you like to Show Jump to 1.50m or are you happy at 60cm? Would you like a Dressage Schoolmaster or a young horse to bring on? Take into account your own capabilities. Be realistic and honest with yourself, you do not want to be over-horsed. Make your list as extensive as you can. 2. Leave your emotions at the door Listening to your heart is fine when shopping for that dream bridle or pair of long boots. Remember your list of what you would like to achieve and step back. That super sleek magnificent 2 year old may steal your heart, when what you really need is a reliable, experienced steady type. You don’t want to be heart broken or hurt. 3. Take your time Take a deep breath and slow down. Avoid being in a hurry, evaluate each prospect properly. Make sure the horse ticks boxes on your list. Don’t be pressurized into a purchase. If you have your doubts, step back. If you rush you may end up with a horse that is inappropriate. Avoid impulse buying.
To advertise your horse, contact: ads@houndandhorse.co.za
4. Be realistic about your abilities If a horse seems to be more than you can handle, walk away. If you try out a horse that is difficult at home, you can bet it will be more difficult when in an unfamiliar situation. If schooling is not your strength avoid buying a youngster. If you are unsure ask your instructor to accompany you. 5. Be colour blind You may have your heart set on owning a fabulous dapple grey or have a thing for a dark bay with two white socks. Having these criteria will reduce your options and a good horse is a good horse no matter what the colour. 6. Pretty Everyone loves a chocolate box looking horse. Be careful not to fall in love with the face over the door. Don’t overlook a really good horse with a great work ethic that is plain, in favour of a dropdead gorgeous horse that is difficult. A worker bee is much easier to handle than a queen bee. 7. Ask Questions Compile a list of questions. Ask about the horse’s current stable routine. How much daily turn-out? How much and what feed? Has the horse ever been seen to weave, crib or windsuck? How does the horse load and travel? Does the horse stand for the farrier? 8. Keep listening Listen to the seller. Most sellers are honest, but “hmm he has never done
that before” means they probably have or “your child and this horse can grow together” means you will end up with a blind leading the blind situation. If you get the feeling that the seller is being less than honest with you. Thank them for their time, and move onto the next prospect. 9. Take notes Keep a written record for each horse. Write meticulous notes, and use them to keep track of horses you’re interested in and have looked at. That way, you’ll know exactly what you liked—and didn’t like—about a particular horse, so you can make a better decision. 10. Take pictures Use your cell phone to take photos and video when trying each horse, so you’ll have a digital record to which you can refer. (Take a knowledgeable friend along when you shop, and designate him or her as your official photographer. Having someone along also will give you a chance to compare observations. 11. Vet inspection When you think you have found your ideal horse the final step to take is to request a pre-purchase veterinary inspection. It will serve to identify any pre-existing problems, i.e. soundness in wind and limb, that could be a problem in the future.
"A pony is a childhood dream. A horse is an adulthood treasure"
Kaylyn Cleans Up! Kaylyn Van Den Burg and her pony Sugarbird took part in their first Royal Show this year and swept the board in the first ridden 10 and under classes!
“My name is Kaylyn and my pony, SugarBird, is from the Southern Kamberg, She did really well! I felt a bit nervous and Birdy felt strong, but she looked after me while I was riding and did what she was supposed to do. I really enjoyed the show. I can’t believe I did it!”
Overall Winning Branch: Hillcrest/Waterfall Pony Club Quizz Trophy: Jo-Jo's Centre Spirit of Pony Club Award: Ashburton Pony Club Rider of the Future Award: Tiyla-Ann Robbins - Hillcrest/Waterfall
2nd Best rider First Ridden Champion sponsored by Luv Poneez Overall Supreme Young Rider Champion (Lead Rein and First RIdden) sponsored by Epol
Photo credit: Equerry
A busy Inter-Branch was held at the Durban Shongweni Club and saw many teams taking part in what is a landmark year for Pony Club as it celebrates it's 90th Birthday.
Under 10 Victor Ludorum: Kate Maritz - Hillcrest/Waterfall Childrens Victor Ludorum: Violet Du Plessis - Jo-Jo's Centre Junior Victor Ludorum: Georga Poisson - Hillcrest/Waterfall The Swan Prince Champion Horse: Lingfield Tokara - Hillcrest/Waterfall A very big congratulations to the riders selected to represent KZN at the upcoming Gauteng Inter-Branch: Bradley Champan - Karkloof/Howick Tristan Strauss - Karkloof/Howick Shannon Bromehead - Ashburton Rebecca Goodall - Ashburton Well Done Everyone who Took Part! J U LY
1st First ridden utility pony
Pony Club Inter-Branch 2019 Results
Bothas Hill Chairmans Award: Bradley Chapman - Karkloof/Howick
16 •
1st First ridden pony
2019 • HOUND & HORSE
Knick Knack Paddy Whack
GIVE A DOG A HOME
Mutt of the Month
SOCHA is a beautiful boy of around 4yo & he is in need of a forever family. He LOVES snoozing but also has an energetic playful side to him. He enjoys going for a walk & playing ball. Socha needs a home where he will have human company & lots of love. He has a slight
hearing disability & needs to sleep inside at night where he is protected & safe. Socha gives paw & has a lovely temperament. He can be a bit boisterous when he gets excited so although he is great with the young children at his foster home, he will be best suited with older kids.
ZEUS. Meet Zeus, a big ball of furry adorableness & a giant bundle of handsomeness! He is a 6yo Saint Bernard in desperate need of a new home. Zeus enjoys taking his humans for a walk in the park & would prefer to be an only dog. He doesn’t know cats. BLUE is a 5yo Husky X Shepherd who is missing his tail. He is good with other dogs & has a lovely nature but needs an understanding owner. This gorgeous blue-eyed boy needs a secure home. STORM is a beautiful boy. He is a Husky X German Shepherd & nearly 6yo. Storm is good with other dogs of all sizes & is a very loyal chap. FLOWER is a pretty girl. She is a 3yo Collie X chocolate Labrador with a beautiful nature. She is great with other dogs & grew up with young children. Flower has a loving & playful personality & will make a wonderful addition to your home. The reason for her being rehomed is that her parents are leaving the country. She enjoys going for walks to the dog park & walks beautifully on a lead. BETTY is a pretty 1yo Shepherd X in need of a new family. She is great with other dogs & loves people. She is friendly, well mannered, walks beautifully on a lead & has a lovely temperament. LUCY is a gorgeous & strong 2yo Boerboel X Shepherd with a beautiful temperament. She is great with other dogs & oh so friendly. She sits for treats & will be a loving, loyal & happy addition to your home. She enjoys going for walks, will keep you entertained with her goofy personality & will bring
endless love into your life. Lucy does not know cats. LUPI is a gorgeous boy. He is a 2yo Pitbull in desperate need of a loving home. Lupi thinks he is a lap dog, he is a gentle soul & has a wonderful nature. He is good with other dogs, loves children & does not know cats. Lupi is used to sleeping inside & loves to be close to his humans. JUDY is a 16-month-old Pointer cross who is fantastic with children. She is a gentle girl with a beautiful nature. Judy loves to play in the garden & she does not know cats. To offer forever homes to any of our wondetful dogs, please go to www.projectdog.co.za for an adoption application form and email it to quichamorgado@ gmail.com Animal Lodge Pet Hotel
Free the adventure in you
Where aviation dreams come true. Whether it be a balloon ride across the Drakensberg, an adrenaline-fueled skydive or a romantic helicopter ride to the perfect destination, Sky Adventures will take you there! 073 334 9711 | rhod@skyadventures.co.za | www.skyadventures.co.za