Hyde Park Accent Magazine Fall/Winter 2008 by Hyde Park Jewelers

ACCENT

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THE MAGAZINE OF LUXURY LIVING

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Holiday

Glamour w w w. h p j e w e l s . c o m

D E N V E R

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L A S

V E G A S

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P H O E N I X

FALL/WINTER 2008

HYDE PARK JEWELERS DENVER

Cherry Creek Shopping Center 3000 E. 1st Ave. Denver, CO 80206 Phone (303) 333-4446 PHOENIX

Biltmore Fashion Park 2442 E. Camelback Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85016 Phone (602) 667-3541 LAS VEGAS

Forum Shops 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South Las Vegas, NV 89109 Phone (702) 794-3541 W W W. H Y D E PA R K J E W E L E R S . C O M MICHAEL POLLAK

CEO SHEREEN POLLAK

President DAMON GROSS

COO S U S I L E X I E R - A LT M A N

Denver General Manager

S A N D I P E R RY

Las Vegas General Manager K. MARIETTE SPIDEL

Phoenix General Manager K AY H O U R I G A N

Director of Human Resources JENNIFER FERKENHOFF

Director of Marketing

PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague ADVERTISING MANAGER

Mary E. Davis CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

FEATURES

Beth Bernstein FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R

Maria Aponte DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti

4 Welcome Letter

44 Fashion: Colors in Plume

6 Hyde Park Events

52 Trends: Bedecked for the Holidays

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

8 Best Bets

54 Gemstones: Quartz

PRODUCTION MANAGER

16 Accent Advisor

58 Designers: Judith Ripka

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

20 Editor’s Selects 26 Red Carpet: Star Power

62 The History of the Cartier Tank Watch

30 Men’s Watch Trends 2009

66 Trends: Jewelry with a Message

34 Women’s Watch Trends 2009

70 Profile: Perfectly Panerai

40 Designers: Marco Bicego

74 First Person: Rocky Romance

42 Natural Color Diamonds

76 End Page: Rolex Event Sponsorships

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Peg Eadie Hugh K. Stanton PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton Copyright 2008. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th R . The Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; A R publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 6, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.

COVER ILLUSTRATION: MONICA LIND

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Fran Salamon

TIGER WOODS AND HIS LINK CALIBRE S CHRONOGRAPH WITH PERPETUAL RETROGRADE CALENDAR www.tagheuer.com

Dear Friends,

Welcome

As we transition into the fall and winter months, we find ourselves in a climate of change. The three E’s—the Election, the Economy, and the Environment—leave us with feelings of anticipation for what’s to come.While some of these changes invoke a sense of nervousness, there are some changes occurring at Hyde Park that leave us with nothing but excitement.We are proud to be celebrating the expansion of our Phoenix store at Biltmore Fashion Park. At approximately 5,000 square feet, the new store offers a premier line-up of designer jewelry and timepiece brands, along with a full-service jewelry shop and watchmaker.We invite you to stop in to browse our newest collections, including timepieces from Audemars Piguet and Chanel, and jewelry from Stephen Webster, King Baby, Giovanni, Rhonda Faber Green, Rina Limor and many more. Despite all of the changes that are looming around us, one thing has never wavered at Hyde Park. Since our beginning over 30 years ago, we have strived to remain true to our mission and core values. Our mission is to celebrate life’s special occasions by providing the finest products, staff and service to our community while exceeding expectations of quality, value and integrity. We commit ourselves to this mission by focusing on our core values: COMMITMENT

Proceed with the knowledge that our word is our bond and we are dedicated to honoring all of our commitments. INTEGRITY

Conduct all activities and deliver service based on the highest standards. QUALITY

Strive for excellence in professionalism, appearance, merchandise and expertise. SERVICE

Exceed expectations by providing prompt solutions to our clients’ needs. TEAMWORK

Develop relationships of trust and mutual respect with our colleagues and clients. VA L U E

Maintain a reputation for creating an exceptional experience by offering outstanding service and the finest products.

Thank you for allowing us to continue to fulfill our mission, and we look forwarding to sharing in your special occasions in the future. Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak, CEO Hyde Park Jewelers

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www.chanel.com

2008

calendar of events DENVER

CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER

October 10-11: 21st Annual Watch Fair

Hyde Park’s annual Watch Fair has earned a loyal following as the premier watch event in Denver. Browse the newest introductions from Rolex, Cartier, Breitling, JaegerleCoultre, Girard-Perregaux, Corum, Chopard, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Ebel, Raymond Weil and Swiss Army. Add to your collection or use the value of your existing watch to upgrade to a new timepiece.

November 14-15: The Diamond Event

Hyde Park invites you to view a stunning collection of diamonds and gemstones. Representatives from some of the finest names in diamond jewelry will be on hand to assist you. Discover Roberto Coin’s Private Collection, a rare and exquisite collection of the brand’s most precious jewelry. From loose stones to engagement rings, diamond pendants, fancy colored diamonds and fashion jewelry, this two-day selection represents our premier display of diamond and gemstone jewelry.

PHOENIX

B I L T M O R E F A S H I O N PA R K

October 17-18: Grand Unveiling Trunk Show

Hyde Park is celebrating the Grand Unveiling of our new 5,000 square foot store in The Biltmore Fashion Park. We invite you to experience our newly expanded and updated showroom and browse over 30 internationally recognized designer jewelry lines including Roberto Coin, JB Star, John Hardy, Stephen Webster and more.

October 24-25: 5th Annual Watch Fair

Experience the most remarkable 48 hours in time! Preview stunning collections and limited editions from some of the world’s finest watchmakers including Rolex, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Ebel—and now available at Hyde Park—Audemars Piguet and Chanel.

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CHARRIOL USA . COM

RockStars YOSSI HARARI

Roxanne mosaic pendants in handcrafted silver and gemstones. Each piece is one-of-a-kind.

MIZUKI

White coral and South Sea pearl stretch bracelets in 14K white gold.

STEPHEN WEBSTER Superstud ring with blue goldstone crystal haze.

JOHN HARDY

KING BABY STUDIO

Naga kick cuff in sterling silver and 22K gold.

Small dog tag necklace in sterling silver with 18K yellow gold pavĂŠ diamond crown heart.

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EMILY & ASHLEY

MARCO BICEGO

Tree of Life pendant in 14K yellow gold with diamonds on a 25” adjustable link chain.

Jaipur 47” necklace hand-finished in 18K yellow gold with semi-precious gemstones.

MIKIMOTO

Pearls in Motion Sandstorm Golden South Sea cultured pearl earrings with diamonds set in 18K yellow gold.

ROBERTO COIN Moresque ring in 18K yellow gold with diamonds.

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RockStars ROBERTO COIN CENTO Signature diamond necklace and earrings in 18K white gold.

KWIAT

Diamond hoops in 18K white gold, available in multiple sizes and carat weights.

PENNY PREVILLE Diamond scroll cuff bracelet in 18K white gold.

HEARTS ON FIRE

CHARRIOL

Enticing right-hand ring with tiered Dream diamonds framed by Hearts On Fire diamonds in 18K white gold.

Celtic Noir Collection 18K white gold and pavĂŠ diamond bracelet on black stainless steel cable.

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TimeOut CARTIER

Ballon Bleu de Cartier medium model, 18K pink gold case, diamond bezel, silver guilloché dial, blue sapphire cabochon crown and purple alligator strap with 18K pink gold dual-folding buckle.

EBEL

Beluga Lady, newly updated icon, quartz movement, stainless steel case with progressive diamond setting, mother-ofpearl diamond dial, and triple link stainless steel bracelet.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

WW.TC 24-Hour Shopping, 41mm, automatic movement, stainless steel case set with 1.95 carats of diamonds, mother-of-pearl dial, shopping world time and day/night indication, sapphire crystal with see-through back, black alligator strap and stainless steel folding buckle.

CHANEL

BAUME & MERCIER

Première Ceramic, 18K white gold and diamond case, white dial with 18K white gold and white ceramic diamond bracelet.

Iléa, stainless steel and 18K gold case and bracelet with diamond bezel and curve guilloché mother-of-pearl dial.

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TimeOut PANERAI

Luminor Chronograph, 40mm, automatic mechanical movement, stainless steel case, black dial, sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, black alligator strap with stainless steel adjustable buckle.

BREITLING

Breitling for Bentley GMT, 49mm, self-winding Caliber 47B chronometer C.O.S.C. certified movement with stainless steel case, rotating pinion bezel with time zone scale and stainless steel Speed bracelet.

TAG HEUER

Grand CARRERA GMT, 42mm with stainless steel case and bracelet, silver dial, dual time-zone and C.O.S.C. certified movement.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

CORUM

Master Compressor Diving Chronograph, 44mm, automatic chronograph movement, titanium case, 65-hour power reserve, water and pressure resistant to 1,000 meters, black rubber strap with stainless steel folding buckle.

Admiralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cup Challenge 44 Split-Seconds, 44mm, automatic split-seconds chronograph with stainless steel and carbon fiber case and bracelet, nautical pennants as hour markers.

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HAPPY SPORT COLLECTION

Fantasia Collection - robertocoin.com 1.800.853.5958

“YouthAIDS is an initiative of Population Services International, a non-proﬁt organization classiﬁed under section 501(c)(3)of the Internal Revenue Code. For more information about this promotion, please visit www.youthaids.org “The YouthAIDS name and emblem are used with the permission of Population Services International, which in no way constitutes an endorsement, express or implied, of any product, service, company or individual.”

A PERCENTAGE OF SALES FROM THE ROBERTO COIN JEWELRY FEATURED WILL BE DONATED TO YOUTHAIDS, A GLOBAL INITIATIVE DEDICATED TO THE FIGHT AGAINST AIDS.

Accent Advisor How can I change a 16-inch classic strand of South Sea pearls to make them look fashionable and contemporary?

Can I combine and wear different colored gold tones at one time? Definitely. Over the past few seasons, we have seen more and more high karat yellow gold as well as rose gold, which both look refreshingly sophisticated. If you haven’t yet added one or both of these colors to your white gold jewelry wardrobe, it’s time to mix it up! Wear pendants in all three tones or wear a large medallion in rose gold on a white or yellow statement link chain.

Bangles in varying sizes and shapes look great when piled on in two or three tones with diamond accents, as do stackable rings. Wear a bold retro link chain in yellow gold next to your white or pink gold watch. In jewelry right now, mixing things up is the rule—not the exception. So have fun and personalize your own unique style.

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necklace longer. You can choose from yellow, white and rose gold and different colored diamonds for the pavé. These choices will determine whether a cool or warm luster comes out in the pearls. Adding a vintage or antique-style diamond clasp will imbue your strand with a 1920s feeling. If you are a fan of the longer 3646-inch chains (which will continue to be an important trend), we can add chain and interestingly shaped filigree diamond stations, creating a look that you can wear elongated or doubled and graduated around your neck. Any leftover pearls can be used to make earrings or a beautiful South Sea pearl ring.

TOP: COURTESY PENNY PREVILLE. BOTTOM: COURTESY PAMELA FROMAN

There are many options for updating your traditionally strung pearls. Before you bring them to us, consider these modern, fashionconscious design ideas. You can add diamond pavé rondells, or for an even fresher look, threedimensional florettes to separate your pearls and add length to the strand. The final length of the necklace will depend on how many stations of rondells or flowers you use. If you’re thinking that a 2224-inch strand might be a great length to accent your holiday wardrobe, we can measure the difference and use these handmade spacer beads between every pearl or every three pearls to make your traditional

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Accent Advisor

Is there any rule for how many pieces of jewelry I can wear without looking overaccessorized?

This totally depends on the person. Coco Chanel sometimes wore ropes and ropes of pearls mixed with different chains and brooches, and is considered to be one of the most fashionable women of all time. Diana Vreeland wore armfuls of wide bangles and was also a style icon. One thing they had in common was that they chose one or two categories of jewelry and piled it on. For example, Chanel also wore cuffs but when she layered the necklaces and donned bracelets on each wrist, she wore nothing else (or perhaps very simple stud earrings). To attract rather than detract, stick with only two body

parts to accessorize with fine jewelry. When wearing stiletto or chandelier earrings, the general rule is to go sans necklace or stay very simple and delicate with the necklace if you must wear one. Instead, you can wear a bold bracelet or large stone cocktail ring with the earrings. Similarly, pair a gutsy medallion with any type of ring or bangles to avoid looking too overdone.

You can wear brooches and pins in myriad ways. Try fastening one to a wool scarf and draping to create a cowl neckline. You can scatter them on a cashmere sweater as long as the material is thick enough. On a suit jacket, you can wear brooches asymmetrically on the lower pocket. To dress up a simple black sheath dress for the holidays, you can stick them in a variety of places: vertically down from the shoulder, around the neckline or on the side

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between the hip and waist. Depending on its mechanism, a brooch can be worn as a hair accessory for added glamour. Play with the pins until you find the way they look best and feel most comfortable. If you still find youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not wearing them, bring your brooches in to discuss how we might transform them into something that better suits your style.

BROOCH: OSCAR HEYMAN. COCO CHANEL IMAGE: LIPNITZKI/ROGER VIOLLET/GETTY IMAGES

How can I wear my grandmotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s antique dragonfly and floral leaf diamond and gemstone brooches to make them look contemporary?

800 920 3153

www.ebel.com

GISELE WEARS THE NEW EBEL BELUGA

HYDE PARK DIAMOND PARTNERS

Our favorite referrals…to celebrate after she says YES!

At Hyde Park, we recognize that an engagement is a very special moment! In addition to helping you with all of your jewelry needs, we want to help you in celebrating your special occasion with some of our favorite local businesses. Here is a helpful list of Denver businesses who we consider best in class when it comes to preparing for your big day.

HOTEL

BRIDAL BOUTIQUE ike to We’d Lk You! Than

se an purcha mond u o y ia When ent ring or a d u will o engagemyde Park, y each om from H special gift fr ed at a alu receive businesses. V wards e s e is th th re aying of 1,500, fs over $ is our way o us to g e packag u for allowin casion. c yo o l k n ia a c e th your sp share in

J.W. MARRIOTT ANNA BÉ

Denver’s premier location for special events has arrived. The JW Marriott Denver at Cherry Creek offers an unparalleled standard of service, paired with a luxurious hotel that is sure to turn any event into a blissful reality. They offer elegant banquet facilities, including the Grand Ballroom that can accommodate up to 200 guests as well as an outdoor enclosable Terrace. The professional and experienced catering, culinary team, and certified onsite wedding consultant provide every client personalized service to ensure a flawless, unforgettable experience.

The owners of Anna Bé, Anna Walsh and Breanna Doll, are on a mission to bring great design to brides. Former ad agency folks, Anna and Breanna have the goal of bringing creativity and flawless service to brides. Their fresh approach to bridal is underscored by having two parts of the business: the bridal boutique and the design studio. Innovative ideas and an appreciation for design are the backbone for both. The boutique provides a well-edited collection of stunning, stylish gowns, maids, veils, and accessories. Designers include: Vera Wang, Junko Yoshioka, Caroline DeVillo, Stephanie James, Jenny Yoo, Nicole Miller, and many more. The design studio elevates wedding planning. Brides who work with the design studio receive top-flight planning, event design, custom stationery and paper details, vendor recommendations and, day-of coordination. And all brides who work with Anna Bé get a dose of their philosophy: Less Stress…More Play!

J.W. Marriott Denver at Cherry Creek 150 Clayton Lane Denver, CO 80206 303.316.2700 www.jwmarriottdenver.com

Anna Bé 3215 Zuni Street Denver, CO 80211 720.855.1111 www.anna-be.com

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BRIDAL REGISTRY

INTERNATIONAL VILLA For over 50 years, International Villa has been a leader in bridal registry by providing the finest selection of formal and everyday dishes, drinkware and accessories for the home. Family owned and operated, this fine store in Cherry Creek North offers unparalleled service and selection for its registered brides and customers alike. International Villa 239 Detroit Street Denver, CO 80206 303.333.1524 www.internationalvilla.com

CATERING

OCCASIONS BY SANDY Occasions by Sandy is Denver’s premier “boutique” caterer, meaning they make your event unforgettable by ensuring that it is uniquely yours. Your tastes. Your vision. Your budget. For nearly 40 years, they have been reinventing weddings and other events with original designs and fresh menu creations tailored to each individual customer. Their innovation, expertise, and passion for food and service are sure to make your next event unforgettable. Occasions by Sandy 1789 West Warren Avenue Englewood, CO 80110 303.789.1867 www.occasionsbysandy.com

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DRYCLEANING

F I N E

C L E A N E R S

LA NOUVELLE

La Nouvelle has been selected as one of America’s Best Cleaners, an exclusive national organization that recognizes the best dry cleaning establishments in major metropolitan areas. From casual wear to formal attire and wedding gowns, La Nouvelle provides unmatched service for those who care about their clothing. The professionals at La Nouvelle are trained to clean each garment individually with meticulous attention to detail. La Nouvelle has also developed proprietary “green cleaning” technology to help ensure a safer environment. La Nouvelle is proud to be Denver’s premier provider of couture quality cleaning and service. La Nouvelle 4025 East Dickenson Place Denver, CO 80222 303.691.0123 www.lanouvellecleaners.com

FLORIST

NEWBERRY BROTHERS GREENHOUSE & FLORIST

Open for over 60 years, Newberry Brothers has been providing the Colorado community with exceptional floral designs, party décor and plants. They are a full service florist & greenhouse, offering all custom floral arrangements and a wide variety of bedding, green and annual blooming plants. They also offer gourmet food baskets, and a Colorado Proud basket featuring all Colorado-made food products. The Newberry Brothers design staff prides itself on making arrangements that suit your taste, style & décor. Newberry Brothers Greenhouse & Florist 201 Garfield Street Denver, CO 80206 303.322.0443 www.newberrybrothers.com

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RESTAURANT

ELWAY’S Elway’s emerged from a mixture of good friends, good food and the belief that Coloradans are looking for – and deserve – more from a dining experience. Longtime friends John Elway and Tim Schmidt envisioned a place where friends, families and business professionals could celebrate life’s victories, or just unwind at the end of a busy day. Where an ever-changing menu offered the best of the best, accompanied by fine wines at fair prices. All delivered in a contemporary atmosphere much like Colorado itself – adventurous, fun and always alive. Now with two locations – Cherry Creek and The Ritz-Carlton Denver – the Elway’s vision has become a reality. Celebrate a birthday or anniversary, entertain business associates or meet friends for cocktails. Or you can simply enjoy an outstanding meal served with genuine hospitality in an environment that is uniquely Colorado. Elway’s Cherry Creek 2500 East First Avenue Unit 101 Denver, CO 80206 303.399.5353

Elway’s Downtown The Ritz-Carlton Denver 1881 Curtis Street Denver, CO 80202 303.312.3107

www.elways.com

STATIONARY

SIGNED & SEALED BY STEPH Send your special message in style with Signed & Sealed by Steph! Offering opportunities to set the mood for your events with invitations, brand your celebrations with party essentials, or choose the perfect personalized note to say thank you, Signed and Sealed by Steph will meet your needs through distinct product availability, ample customization opportunities, and personal service. Signed & Sealed by Steph 303.856.3398 www.signedandsealedbysteph.com

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EVENT PLANNER

AFFAIR WITH FLAIR You are cordially invited to the most special event you’ve ever hosted! Whether you are planning a large celebration, an intimate party or a special business or fundraising event, Affair with Flair develops the most unique, fun and exciting events that create the atmosphere you want, and that your guests will remember forever. Since 1982, Affair with Flair has been recognized as one of Colorado’s premiere event planning companies, with a reputation for creativity, innovation and attention to detail. Have fun working in the development stage, then relax and enjoy your event while Affair With Flair delivers the highest quality of professional on-site event execution. Every event is a Special Event at Affair with Flair!

Affair With Flair 77 Charlou Circle Englewood, CO 80111 303.770.2200 www.affairwithflair.com

INSURANCE

VAN GILDER

There is more to personal insurance than just the premium. Van Gilder’s Personal Account Executives begin each quoting process by conducting a thorough analysis of your insurance needs, realizing that lifestyles and requirements of an individual or for a family may vary greatly. They identify and evaluate your requirements, then make carefully considered recommendations to address those needs. The goal is to minimize your burden of financial loss through the most cost-efficient risk management strategy. And, yes they can even provide wedding insurance, along with home, auto, and other types of personal insurance. Van Gilder Insurance Corporation 9781 South Meridian Boulevard Englewood, CO 80112 800.938.7117 www.vgic.com

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RED CARPET

STAR POWER

Tangerine

Music of the

H STERN

Dreams

Orange is the go-to color this fall, either as a highlight or a full-on fashion statement. Pair bold colors with bold jewelry, as FrenchSenegalese actress Aissa Maiga did at Cannes this year. Or consider complementing a colorful neckline with cool blue tanzanite or natural deep chocolate diamonds.

Night Often, simple is best, especially if you’re blessed with an elegant neckline like actress Emmy Rossum. At Cartier’s 2008 Love Day event, Rossum demonstrated that hoops are moving off the ears and hitting the links... of necklaces, that is. Large or small, open links are big this season.

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JOHN SHEARER/WIRE IMAGES COURTESY CARTIER

The evenings may be cooling, but warm tones elevate the season’s dominant grays and blacks, both in gems and in fabrics. The diaphanous look gets tailored just a bit, and creativity is introduced into jewelry with the adventurous use of unusual stones alongside elegant diamonds and emeralds. B Y R OBERT H AYNES -P ETE RSON

To break away from black and gray, consider of-the-moment metallics or bejeweled gowns. Tailored and tasteful, the gowns may require a bit more consideration when accessorizing, as American Idol competitor Kelly Pickler successfully demonstrated at the ACMA awards this year. But the payoff is an ensemble that stands out from the crowd.

Idol

Worship

CHOPARD

H. JOHN SHEARER/WIRE IMAGES COURTESY CARTIER

Taking a cue from the Kennedy era, gray is back as a trim, stylish statement in the office or on the dance floor. Musician and actor Common, an ambassador for Cartier’s annual Love Day event, loosens the collar and sports a large-faced but elegant Roadster watch.

PENNY PREVILLE

Men

H. STERN

Mad

Moonstone is the gem of the moment, and it’s popping up everywhere in fine jewelry alongside diamonds and pearls. Cynthia Nixon, at the Berlin premiere of the Sex and the City movie, is tres chic in a gown featuring two other hot fall trends: sheer full skirts and metallic/bejeweled highlights.

Deep, deep necklines are visible on red carpets everywhere right now, as Gwyneth Paltrow so adeptly modeled at the Cannes Film Festival. Necklaces can be tricky, so consider a simple 16-inch chain to draw the eyes… um, up. In a fresh update on chandelier earrings, Paltrow also flashes high style in yellow diamonds.

City Girl

Take the Plunge 28

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WAT C H T R E N D S 2 0 0 9

Perfect Run, don’t walk, to buy next year’s hot watches for men. By Randi Molofsky novel ways of telling time and true forms of self-expression.” What this means for the consumer is that if you’re looking for something, you can probably find it. Forget walking around a trade show for days on end—sit back, relax and read your way to the three biggest trends to come in men’s watches.

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TREND #1: THE THICK AND THIN OF IT Watch manufacturers are learning that variety is the spice of life.While some men love to make a statement with oversized cases and bold faces, others prefer the understated elegance of a thin, vintage-styled timepiece. The upcoming season will focus on both, meaning more choices for two totally different looks. “Brands now feel obligated to cover a broad spectrum,” Morse explains. “I’ve definitely seen a general trend towards bigger and bolder watches since 2001, and that isn’t going away.” These oversized cases (often 42mm and larger) are Left: Tag Heuer’s Grand Carrera Calibre 17 RS2 Chronograph Limited Edition with an ultra-lightweight titanium case. Above: Breitling’s Chrono-Matic 49 has an oversized 49mm case and plenty of complications.

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IMAGES COURTESY BREITLING AND TAG HEUER

ttending BaselWorld—the largest and most extensive global watch fair—is akin to running a marathon. You start out slowly, trying to pace yourself as you pass by a stunning array of exotic leather straps, diamondencrusted cases and whimsical complications. Soon, you hit a stride as you start to spot trends that carry over from brand to brand. And finally, after days of technical terms, pricepoints and more movements than you can shake a stick at, you long for the finish line. The trophy, in this case, is the watch of your dreams. Luckily, the trends for 2009 and beyond offer a huge array of styles, prices and materials that are sure to suit any buyer, from novice to connoisseur. “It sounds like a generality, but there’s a real trend towards eclecticism in timepieces right now,” says Matthew Morse, U.S. Editor-in-Chief of watch magazine Revolutions. “People are looking for

dashboards in luxury cars.” In the same vein, the ability to customize timepieces also signals a new revolution in the marketplace. Personalization is all about giving wearers a way to inject a bit of themselves into the design, and brands are now ready to allow a little leeway in the look and feel of their watches. “Manufacturers are offering the ability to design your own case, so the buyer can really pick and choose different options,” Morse explains.

a huge hit with American buyers, who perceive them as both status symbol and fashion accessory. On the opposite end of the spectrum, a noteworthy vintage revival is making waves across-the-board. This return to a classic look highlighted by thin cases, elegant leather straps and clean, minimal faces may be in part due to a mid-century renaissance happening in fashion, interior design and television. “Companies love to do ‘classic series’ or throwbacks to their archives,” says Morse. “There’s a sense of playing with one’s DNA and history that always leaves room for reissues or updates of old classics.”

TREND #3: IT’S COMPLICATED

TREND #2: THE FUTURE PERFECT

According to Morse, the end of an era is near. In 2010, watch behemoth Swatch Group will stop supplying the general industry with its two most popular movements, thus making cheaper mechanical watches much harder to come by. Rather than wait for the shakedown, manufacturers have decided to take matters into their own hands by producing exclusive in-house movements. “It’s really a big deal for a brand to make its own movement, yet this is becoming more and more common,” Morse says. Above: The classically styled Speaking of watch mechanics, Ultra-Thin by tourbillons are clearly the biggest Jaeger-le Coultre. story of the upcoming season. Right and Below: Cartier’s Ballon Although they’ve been a Bleu and Roadster phenomenon in the last couple of Designs. years, they are now becoming the most sought-after function on mechanical watches. (In layman’s terms, a tourbillon is a constantly moving balance wheel within the watch that counteracts the effects of gravity that could alter the accuracy and reliability of timekeeping.) “The launch of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is important for us, as it marks our entry into the extremely exclusive circle of manufacturing watchmakers permitted to display the Geneva Seal, an unmistakable symbol of excellence,” says Cartier’s de Narp. Expect this trend to grow in seasons to come.♦

Right

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IMAGES COURTESY CARTIER AND JAEGER-LECOULTRE

on Time

For years, watch cases rarely strayed from the usual gold, platinum or steel. Well, the times, they are a changin’. New materials are becoming the backbone of the industry as PVC, ceramic, titanium, carbon, magnesium and others move to the forefront of tech-savvy design. “This marks an interesting departure for the high-end watch consumer, because it teaches us that luxury can be lightweight,” Morse says. “A lot of these materials are featherweight, and that’s very different from the old assumption that the heavier a watch or piece of jewelry is, the more it’s worth.” According to Frederic de Narp, President and CEO of Cartier, their new Roadster has wood accents that are highly unusual in high-end timepieces. “The Roadster design was inspired by the world of automobile design. The new Roadster that features walnut burl (a material made from entangled wood) conjures up the subtle elegance of

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WAT C H T R E N D S 2 0 0 9

Bold & Ladies timepieces offer style and substance for 2009. By Randi Molofsky

YOU’VE

EVER

And why shouldn’t a woman want a great watch? Women today are multitaskers whose overloaded schedules make timekeeping a priority and beautiful watches more than just a status symbol. “The high-end ladies watch market is really coming out of its shell,” confirms Victoria Gomelsky, Editor of Couture International Jeweler and watch contributor to the International Herald Tribune.

picked up a fashion magazine (and who hasn’t?), you can’t miss the plethora of attractive celebrities tempting you to buy a gorgeous luxury timepiece. The industry is becoming keenly aware that high-end watches aren’t just a men’s market; superstars like Charlize Theron, Uma Thurman and Gisele Bündchen regularly peer out from big-name watch brand advertisements.

White On Time: The Concord C1 Pure chronometer features a self-winding movement and 48-hour power reserve.

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M E R C I E R

Photo © Robert Erdmann

B A U M E

It’s TIME to make a difference. To learn more about how Baume & Mercier and TERI HATCHER contribute to programs that improve education for our children, seek to cure cancer and protect the environment, please visit: www.baume-and-mercier.com

ILÉA

1-800-MERCIER

GETTING TECHNICAL

“Before, a woman had to wear a man’s watch to get a certain look or have a certain set of complications, but luckily the tides are turning.” Whether you’re looking for a simple way to tell time, a high-style model that is truly a fashion accessory, or a technical timepiece that rivals the boys’, the newest watches offer women more choices than ever. Follow these four steps to stay at the forefront of watch technology and design in 2009 and beyond.

The most important horizon for this growing market has nothing to do with what’s on the outside and everything to do with what’s within. According to Matthew Morse, U.S. editor of Revolutions magazine, “Brands are taking women’s watches very seriously in terms of complications. This is not just a trend— movement is where the real integrity of the watch lies. The challenge becomes mixing these technical timepieces with a sense of art and beauty that sets it apart from a man’s watch.” To get specific, complications are watch functions that do anything other than tell time. Options such as time zone indicators, chronographs, minute repeaters and calendars all fall under this general category. While watch makers once reserved these features for their men’s models, they are now warming up to the idea that women appreciate, buy and even collect mechanical watches.

RARE DEVICES While many women fall victim to passing fads, they are more likely to obsess over highly desirable pieces that are hard to get their hands on. Enter the limited edition timepiece—a savvy move by watch brands that allows women to purchase watches that help them stand out from the crowd. “There is a real trend towards these smallproduction collections that give the watch an immediate value,” Gomelsky explains. “Companies are partnering with fashion designers or creating exclusive designs. Once they’re sold out, you’re out of luck.”

ONE OF THE BOYS

OVER THE RAINBOW Although diamonds are practically de rigeur on women’s watches, colored gemstones are now making their presence known. Whether it’s of-the-moment natural color diamonds or lesser known semi-precious stones, manufacturers are thinking

Although there will always be a market for dainty, ultra-feminine watches, you’ll definitely be seeing a bolder side of time come next year. From larger cases to wide bands, women shouldn’t be afraid to go big when it comes time to buy a watch. “This look is reminiscent of the play on menswear in women’s fashion,” Gomelsky says. “It’s chic and sexy to wear a man’s white button down shirt, and the same thing goes for the look of an oversized timepiece.”

“YEARS AGO, A WOMAN HAD TO WEAR A MAN’S WATCH TO GET A CERTAIN LOOK OR CERTAIN COMPLICATIONS; LUCKILY, THE TIDES ARE TURNING.”—VICTORIA GOMELSKY, EDITOR OF COUTURE INTERNATIONAL JEWELER Luckily, women no longer have to settle for buying from the men’s section of the store. “A lot of brands are now making styles in two to three sizes, so that customers can choose the scale that fits them,” Morse explains. “And by customizing these larger watches with the details that women appreciate,” says Gomelsky, “whether design motifs or colors, they are creating a market that didn’t exist before.” ♦

outside the box when it comes to colorful cases. “For a while, companies introduced color through the straps, but now we’re seeing color (as in colored gemstones) on the cases, on the dials, around the bezels,” Gomelsky says. “It allows customers to feel like they have something personalized.” Some companies are even using rare and unusual stones and minerals as watch faces. While many watch makers used to cover all ladies models in mother of pearl and call it a day, innovators are branching out into patterned agates and crystals to make a standout statement.

Left: Chopard’s highly complicated L.U.C. Chrono One Flyback unisex model. Above: Montblanc’s limited-edition Star Lady Gold Moonphase Automatic.

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pennypreville.com

WHY A DIAMOND GRADING REPORT IS A “MUST HAVE” WHEN PURCHASING A DIAMOND. For most consumers, buying a quality diamond is a very significant purchase. There are many variables that determine a diamond’s quality, such as the 4Cs – carat weight, color, clarity and cut – as well as measurement, proportion, finish, and whether a diamond has been treated to artificially enhance or correct its characteristics. Deciphering this information can be somewhat daunting. Before making a purchasing decision, consumers need to recognize that many components of a diamond’s quality cannot be seen by the naked or untrained eye, and that the only way to be certain is to insist that your diamond come with a diamond grading report. “Just as you wouldn’t buy a house without having a construction specialist thoroughly evaluate its condition, consumers contemplating a diamond purchase must insist on an unbiased diamond grading report for accurate information about the diamond they are considering buying,” said Ralph Destino, chairman of the Gemological Institute of America. “No two diamonds are alike, and the precise and scientific evaluation of a diamond’s quality requires the utmost in expertise. Reputable jewelers will not hesitate to provide you with an independent, third party grading report, scientifically documenting your diamond’s 4Cs.” As reported in the Wall Street Journal, “… Every diamond should come with a grading certificate from an accredited gemological laboratory; the jewelers we talked to agree that the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), an independent, nonprofit organization, is the most trustworthy.” Making an informed diamond buying decision is not difficult. By insisting on a diamond grading report from a reputable grading laboratory like GIA, consumers will have all the information they need to buy a diamond with confidence.

CARAT WEIGHT The weight of the diamond, calculated in “carats,” with one carat being equal to 1/5 of a gram (recorded to the nearest hundredth of a carat). COLOR GRADE The GIA Color Scale assesses the absence of color from a range of D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown) by comparing each diamond with numerous GIA Master Color Comparison Diamonds. Diamonds are assigned a GIA color grade with grade concurrence by GIA professionals. CLARITY GRADE The presence of inclusions (internal characteristics) and blemishes (external characteristics) is evaluated and gauged on a GIA Clarity Scale from “Flawless” (considered most rare) to “I3”. Size, nature, position, quantity, and color/relief of clarity characteristics visible under 10x magnification are considered. CUT GRADE A diamond’s face-up appearance (brightness, fire and scintillation), design (weight ratio and durability) and craftsmanship (polish and symmetry) are considered when GIA evaluates the cut quality of standard round brilliant diamonds that fall within the GIA color range of “D” to “Z”. These diamonds are assigned a GIA cut grade ranging from “Excellent” to “Poor.” (GIA does not assign cut grades to non round brilliantcut diamonds).

For additional information, please visit www.gia4cs.gia.edu

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C olor Grade: E

C larity Grade: VS1

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A GIA report is the most technologically advanced diamond evaluation possible. It gives you a unique blueprint of your diamond’s attributes and an indisputable record of its quality. As creators of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA is known for the kind of unbiased, scientific information that has guided diamond buyers for generations. To learn more about this unique resource, please visit W W W. G I A 4 C S . G I A . E D U

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING.

DESIGNERS

TheMagic of

e launched his namesake jewelry collection only eight years ago, yet Marco Bicego has already become one of the world’s premier luxury brands. How has he done it? Tradition, technology, passion, personality, design sensibility, quality, Italian craftsmanship—his finely-tuned formula is obviously working. But beyond that, there’s something almost magical (and incredibly sensual) about Marco Bicego jewelry: wear it and be transformed. At 42, Bicego himself has transformed a business once headed by his father Guiseppe, a widelyrespected Italian goldsmith from whom Marco learned his craft. But rather than make classic gold chains, his were unique, multitextured works of art. Eventually, Marco chose to create more exotic-inspired collections with romantic themes like Madagascar (an African-inspired tangle of gold strings),

Marco Bicego

Creating the beautiful, the sensual, the unexpected. By Karen Alberg Grossman

Color Forms

Marco Bicego’s 18 karat gold and pink tourmaline Jaipur earrings and three strand 18 karat gold and semi-precious gemstone Jaipur bracelet.

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for me is picking mushrooms! To be out on the hillside connecting with nature is an almost spiritual experience…” Had he not become a jewelry designer, Bicego might have been a professional soccer player; he also loves tennis and skiing. Married for the past 12 years to Valentina (who helps in the business with marketing), they have three children:

Marrakech (distinctive twisted coils sprinkled with diamonds) and Acapulco (hand-engraved gold beads and briolette-cut semi-precious stones). Bicego notes that such jewelry “moves and dances on the skin, reflecting light and emotion from within.” Such poetry is equally evident in his new Jaipur collection. “It’s all about the colors and shapes of exotic stones, from pink tourmaline and peridot to amethyst and green quartz. Many of these stones are rough-cut, which we do on both sides. Then we carefully design the rough chain so that even the smallest elements in the gold relate to the shapes and textures of the stones. The finished piece has an organic feel to it. While the overall Right: Three strand impression invokes India, 18 karat gold and I’m very proud that my green tourmaline jewelry is still 100 percent Jaipur bracelet. Below Left: 18 engraved and assembled in karat gold and Italy. My office is right next citrine Jaipur ring. to the production floor, so I personally manage all the processes. We’ve created many special techniques, 80 percent of which involve hand craftsmanship but with much new technology including advanced laser machines for certain processes.” icego and his 80 craftsmen are about to move into bigger and better headquarters in his hometown near Vicenza, the city of gold. “My goal is to create not just the best jewelry but also the best quality of life for my artisans. In too many offices, being at work is like being in jail. I place tremendous importance on the workplace environment: the flowers, the trees, the sunlight coming in. We all spend so many hours at work, why shouldn’t it be the best possible atmosphere, light and beautiful? Because this quality of life surely impacts the finished product…” Those who collect Marco Bicego jewelry are well aware that he has always been inspired by nature. But who could guess that his favorite pastimes include activities like fishing? “I’m out on the water surrounded by nature and it’s so peaceful and inspiring. And don’t laugh, but another favorite hobby

“MY GOAL IS TO CREATE NOT JUST THE BEST JEWELRY BUT ALSO THE BEST QUALITY OF LIFE FOR MY ARTISANS... BECAUSE THIS QUALITY OF LIFE SURELY IMPACTS THE FINISHED PRODUCT...”

the Midas

Touch

ten-year-old Beneditta, seven-year-old Julio and five-year-old Carolina. “I am very proud,” he comments matter-of-factly. “And very lucky.” He also feels lucky about his U.S. consumer base, modern cosmopolitan women of all ages who have been incredibly loyal over the past eight years. (Editor’s note: the U.S. comprises 60 percent of Bicego’s international volume.) “Whenever I do personal appearances in the States, I’m so taken with the women who buy my jewelry. Their appreciation of artisan craftsmanship, the way the jewelry affects their self-image, the way they mix pieces from different collections, it all reinforces my belief in the power, and the magic, of fine jewelry.” ♦

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Fancy That!

Special relationships, occasions and personalities deserve something truly unique. By Beth Bernstein

From Left to Right: .54 ct. Fancy Orangey Pink Diamond set in Platinum. 2.15 ct. Fancy Green Diamond set with two Fancy Pink Diamonds, .80 ct. tw. set in Platinum. .45 ct. Fancy Brownish Pink Diamond set in Platinum. 5.03 ct. Fancy Pink Diamond delicately surrounded with .80 ct. tw. set in Platinum. 10.63 ct. Fancy Yellow Radiant Cut Diamond set with two Trapezoids, 1.05 ct. tw. in Platinum.

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IMAGES PROVIDED BY LJ WEST DIAMONDS AND NCDIA

N AT U R A L C O L O R D I A M O N D S

he inherent beauty, extraordinary hues Natural Color Diamond tells a specific story about the bride-to-be and intense fire of Natural Color and about the relationship of the couple. Each has a significant Diamonds continue to propel them into meaning, reflecting a woman’s personality and revealing how the fashion spotlight. Both Christie’s and much she means to the man marrying her. In addition to making a perfect engagement ring, Natural Color Sotheby’s consistently sell unmounted versions for far above estimate at auction. Diamonds are a wonderful way to celebrate anniversaries and other High-profile designers punctuate their life occasions, including the birth of a child. The vast variety of collections with a variety of cuts, colors shades and colors makes it possible to represent all of life’s milestones. The intrinsic value and sizes for solitaire styles and of Natural Color Diamonds as eternity bands. If you’ve been investment pieces and as watching awards shows, you’ll collectible jewelry makes them have noticed celebrities waving desirable gifts for all occasions. from the red carpet wearing According to the experts, large-carat yellow, pink and the value of Natural Color blue diamonds sparklers on Diamonds is affected by their fingers. several factors, the first of According to Robert Lucien which is rarity of color. (Red is May, Executive Director of the most rare with purple NCDIA (Natural Color coming next, then pink, blue Diamond Association), “An and green.) Hue, tone and incredible variety of alluring saturation are other elements shades in Natural Color that determine the beauty and Diamonds are showing up in cost of the diamond. Says earrings, pendants and West, “The range is light, bracelets, but the most popular fancy, intense and vivid, with purchase men are making as a vivid commanding the highest way to commemorate special prices. But that’s not to say that occasions is rings, especially a lighter shade can’t be rare engagement rings.” and exquisite.” Adds May, “The Traditionally, a colorless size of the stone is another diamond engagement ring attribute that affects value. If represents unity and longevity. Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Earrings the color and intensity are the But now that there are no 4.81 ct. set in Platinum and surrounded by 1.56 ct. tw. of White Diamonds. same, then a larger stone will steadfast rules in jewelry, it’s be of greater worth.” totally acceptable to purchase a A versatile and affordable fashion alternative to a solitaire Natural Color Diamond as an engagement ring. In fact, more and more modern women are opting for them as their engagement stone is a Natural Color Diamond eternity band. These can be ring of choice. “Clearly, contemporary women are breaking with combined in multiples or even mixed with a white diamond convention. In the past, they cared more about tradition; today, eternity band. Perfect for any occasion, today’s woman can they want to express their personalities, to differentiate stylishly stack as many as she can fit on her fingers, to signify themselves and stand out from the crowd,” notes Larry West of LJ multiple anniversaries or simply to express her beautiful, West Diamonds. And according to the couples buying them, each colorful, unique and individual self! ♦

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PART RETRO, PART MODERN, THIS SEASON’S DRAMATIC JEWELRY REFLECTS YOUR INNER PEACOCK. IT’S ALL ABOUT COLOR, TEXTURE, LONG LINKS AND STATEMENT PIECES. DON’T BE AFRAID TO RUFFLE SOME FEATHERS.

PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN PUSHNIK STYLIST MARIA APONTE,

MAKEUP: NIVES RIDDLES/JGK INC.; HAIR: FRANCKY L’OFFICIAL/THE ARTIST LOFT; MODEL: HEATHER NEWTON/CLICK

COLORS IN PLUME

Top and Skirt by Tia Cibani for Ports 1961 and Gorias Rubber Cinch Belt by Tia Cibani for Ports 1961. For jewelry information, please call or visit our store.

Sleeveless Teal Double-Faced Wool Dress Coat and Mustard Yellow Fingerless Gloves by Thuy. For jewelry information, please call or visit our store.

Antique gold paillette top with Russian sable sleeves and gold brocade skirt by Kati Stern for Venexiana. For jewelry information, please call or visit our store.

Peacock Cashmere Wrap by Maria Pinto and Dress by Tia Cibani for Ports 1961. For jewelry information, please call or visit our store.

TRENDS

Bedecked for the

Holidays

Daring accents Stephen Webster’s “Fly by Night” earrings in 18k yellow and blackened gold. Roberto Coin’s wide turtle pattern ring with champagne diamonds.

f you’re like me, you have at least a few different versions of the little black dress. And you likely discovered a long time ago that they can get you through a variety of holiday events. It’s the accessories that make the outfit: the bag, the shoes and, most importantly, the jewelry. Nothing brightens a face like a sparkling pair of earrings or emphasizes a décolletage like a sexy lariat. Or in my case, camouflages the fact that I have not even a hint of cleavage like a bib style necklace. With bracelets and necklaces showing up on the runways that would have made Cleopatra topple over, it’s clear that holiday ‘08 dressing is all about the jewelry. It’s the time of the year to have fun with fashion and express your personal sense of style. At forty-something, I’ve stayed pretty true to mine, but at this time of year, I find it alluring to try out a few different versions of my persona for different occasions. The me that plays dress-up with my niece is different than the me that wants to eventually take it all off for someone special. The me that has tried on everything—from Stephen Webster’s intriguing and beautiful bat-inspired earrings to Penny Preville’s Tiara cuffs— understands the transformative power of jewelry. This year, I’ve chosen three new looks based on the key trends. Of course, I’ll make them my own and combine with pieces I already have in

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CHANEL FALL 2008 COUTURE COURTESY STYLESIGHT

This season’s new jewelry adds glamour to the little black dress. By Beth Bernstein

wearing stacks of gemstoneencrusted bangles edged in blackened Leslie Greene’s 18k silver and set gold station necklace. off by white Yossi Harari’s rose and diamonds. For rough-cut gemstone bangle. Penny Preville’s this look, I “Imperial” collection like the 24k diamond tiara cuff. oxidized sterling and gemstone styles by Yossi Harari. For the elegance and aristocratic look of Russian royalty, I’m trying on some of Penny Preville’s Imperial pieces. (And I’m sure I’ll settle on one or two.) Her tiara cuff bracelet and scroll motif earrings in white gold are the perfect complements for a dressy dinner or evening affair. And while I still hope for someone to bring me roses, why wait? Buying my own rose-cut diamonds set in rose gold for an antique twist on English aristocracy is just the ticket this holiday. Thoroughly Modern. Whether I’m going to be dancing the night away or entertaining at home (more likely the at-home scenario), the chic, sinuous and elongated lines reminiscent of the 1920s are perfect this season. (Maybe I’ll even splurge for my hairstylist to create soft curls or a sensual feminine updo to complete the look.) Long multiple diamond or gemstone chains in different variations will dress up either a casual entertaining ensemble or a flirtatious feminine slip dress. Linear earrings with movement and swing or a geometric diamond cuff bracelet on each wrist all add to the glamour and drama of this timeless look. Both Leslie Greene and Judith Ripka do wonderful ultra-long station chains and a variety of cuff bracelets. This season, I’m definitely going for the bolder pieces, the ones that speak to the moment but also have a one-of-a-kind, timeless quality that will endure. Just like the little black dress. ♦

Add

Sparkle

ALESSANDRO DELL' ACQUA/FIRSTVIEW

OSCAR DE LA RENTA/FIRSTVIEW

my wardrobe. I consider them investment pieces that I can wear long after the holiday festivities are over. u Natural. No, this doesn’t mean I’m going sans makeup or skipping the mani/pedi. This trend is all about organic shapes, earthy textures, roughhewn materials, animal and reptile motifs and rough-cut gemstones. Personally, I love the idea of purchasing a wide wood bangle outlined in high karat yellow gold to nestle between the diamond pavé bangles I already own. My new musthave pendant is made of a rough-cut, irregularly shaped flat diamond with the beauty of its natural inclusions showing, surrounded by pavé diamonds for a simple yet statementmaking look. This can be worn alone or layered with my diamonds-by-the-yard elongated necklaces. For animal motifs and textures, Roberto Coin’s Turtle Collection in black and yellow is both subtle and sophisticated. I would pair the bangle or the bold ring with a simple pair of textured hoops with champagne diamond accents. Baroque pearls in beautiful browns or grays look particularly fresh when held by a leaf, thorn or twig on an oversized cocktail ring. They’re perfect for a more relaxed cocktail party or a dressed-down family gathering. Queen for a Day. I’m going for the full spa treatment, the pampering, the facial, the massage—and then I’m going to go out and purchase one of the more regal looks being offered this season. Inspiration comes from eastern and western nobility. When an appropriate event arises, I will go for the gold and borrow my look from Mogul princesses,

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GEMSTONES

StoneAge

Quartz gemstones are back and better By Beth Bernstein

than ever!

I F Y O U ’ R E T H I N K I N G of investing in one of today’s top

Crystal

Persuasion

Rock crystal ring in 18k gold by DVS for H. Stern. Rainbow moonstone and pavé diamond necklace by Irene Neuwirth.

jewelry trends—a large stone cocktail ring in an emerald or oval cut, long teardrop earrings or a rough cut stone pendant, consider stones from the quartz family. For the past few years, designers of upscale jewelry have been adding different quartz gemstones to their collections. Many are creating special cuts in faceted translucent or opaque cabochon versions, depending on the feeling of the design and the size and variety of the stones. According to Douglas Hucker, CEO of AGTA (American Gem Trade Association), the quartz family began making a comeback around five years ago when colored stones became the ‘must have’ among modern women for updating their jewelry wardrobes. Hucker explains, “The kaleidoscope of hues and the abundance of raw material allows for quartz’s more accessible pricepoints for the newer large stones and statement pieces in rings, pendants and earrings. Quartz has long been associated with versatility because of its vast spectrum of options; since it’s found in antique and vintage jewelry, it has a timeless quality.” During the post-war years, large renowned houses such as Seeman Schepps, Verdura and Suzanne Belperron added well-known types of quartz (amethyst, citrine and rock crystal) to their collections. Quartz then fell from favor until

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WE PUT 24 WATCHES IN ONE.

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recently, when it’s once again being used in fine jewelry designs. “We’re now seeing all types of styles and cuts, set in high karat gold with diamonds and tonal plays of precious In many cultures and civilizations, quartz is a stone accent stones,” says Hucker. “We’ve witnessed a real that holds great significance. Quartz crystals are change in upscale jewelry. As women want more among the earliest talismans. Seals and imagery in personalized and fashionable pieces in addition to the relief pattern intaglios spoke to nobility and royalty and more traditional diamond styles, parameters have revealed the gods and goddess of ancient Egypt and changed for defining what is considered fine or the Greco-Romans. The lore, legend, spiritual precious in gemstones.” meaning and healing powers of quartz have been emphasized throughout history. Here, a sampling of a he quartz range basically few of the symbolic meanings and spiritual powers of falls into two categories,” some of the more popular quartz stones: explains Huckler. “The first is stones cut from individual Agate: Protection from danger and harmony of mind crystals.” These include body and spirit. rock crystal (clear quartz), Amethyst: Enlightenment and higher consciousness. amethyst, rose quartz, Insight and intuitive powers. citrine and its various tints: Onyx: Strength, stability and presence of mind. lemon and lime citrine, Encourages good fortune. which are slightly more acidic in color and Rock Crystal: Purity, the infinity of space, patience and Madeira citrine, which is a beautiful orangey-red. There are also perseverance. variations on smoky quartz in a range of browns: champagne, whiskey and cognac. Praseolite, which is sometimes called Rose Quartz: The universal stone of love. Allows the green amethyst or green quartz, is a pale to heart to give and receive love. Promotes compassion. mid range blue green or green blue. The Smoky Quartz: Inner truth and connection to the earth. mauve/lilac color, Rose de Yellow Citrine: Prosperity and accomplishment. France, has a dusty antique Reinforces self-confidence. feeling. Most of these stones make for beautiful and wear on a chain or leather cord, then these faceted cuts in bold, gutsy stones (which look like organic slices of the rings, station necklaces and earth) will create the perfect one-of-a-kind statement pendants. They look. take on a modern elegance in Another pattern is the subtle briolette and teardrop-shaped sophistication of the golden, needle-like beads. Rock crystal, however, natural inclusions of rutilated quartz. This is a looks freshest in silhouettes favorite among designers using high karat similar to those that made it so yellow gold and works beautifully on cocktail popular during the Art Deco time rings. period. Geometric and three Throughout history, the solid chalcedonies dimensional sculptural pendants of grey, blue, black onyx and carnelian (red resembling icicles, bold cuffs and chalcedony) as well as ultra-fine apple green rings studded with diamonds and chrysophase have been carved into relief patterns other precious stones, and domed for seals, signet rings and intaglios. Such circles with stenciled-out gold designs exclusive engravings from various cultures and (either as overlays or seen from underneath) Rose quartz pendant lend added depth and hidden nuance to the designs. with hematite accents time periods are back in style today. Known as a “Herkimer Diamond”, the “The second category in the quartz family is formed by Stephen Webster. from finely grained micro crystals; the general name is Rose quartz cocktail double pointed quartz crystal is faceted in nature by Judith Ripka. and is clearer than the highest grade of rock chalcedony,” says Hucker. The variety found in chalcedony ring quartz is even greater than in transparent varieties and includes crystal. It’s named after the mines in central New York where it is stones with patterns (many that mimic elements and landscapes found. It is generally available in small sizes and is being found in nature) as well as an assortment of solid colors. Falling interpreted into delicate pendants, stud and dainty drop earrings, into this range are agates, which are banded. Moss agate has a tree- and unique rings and bangles with multiple stones. There is an endless array of options to choose from within the like pattern, drusy agate has a surface covered with tiny sparkling crystals and a host of jaspers have the feeling of tiny landscapes. If quartz family. Have fun with them and work with your jeweler to you are looking for bold amulet style pendants that you can layer create the custom design that will best express your personal style. ♦

School of Rock

Pop

Rocks

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www.yossiharari.com 866 301 MUSE

DESIGNERS

Womanto

Woman

W O M E N E V E R Y W H E R E WA N T H E R J E W E L R Y.

They see ads for bangles and other baubles in countless publications, from the style pages of The NewYork Times to the glossy pages of Town & Country and, of course, Accent. Recently, even my gynecologist confided to me that if he didn’t buy his wife, Joanne, a Judith Ripka-something for her upcoming birthday, he’d be in the doghouse for the whole next year! So what is it about Judith Ripka jewelry that inspires such an intense gotta-have-it craving in female consumers of almost every age? Indeed, it’s the jewelry itself: beautiful, high quality, and versatile—the ultimate luxurious yet understated accessory for the lifestyle of today’s woman. Ripka herself, who started the New York-based company over 30 years ago, describes her collection as “timeless and classic with a modern twist.” The designer credits her mother, a couturier, for teaching her to see the beauty in even the most common detail. And her father, she tells us, reinforced in his daughter the idea that she could do anything, often telling her: “The harder you work, the luckier you get.” Here, in an exclusive interview with Accent, this internationally recognized designer, whose jewelry is sold in over 275 stores worldwide, talks further about her influences, the jewelry she loves to design and the women she makes it for. All that glitters: Rings from the “Monaco” collection in 18k gold with diamonds, sapphires and colored gemstones. Above: Pieces from the “Disc Pendant” collection in 18k gold and diamonds featuring white onyx, black onyx and turquoise.

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PHOTOS: COURTESY JUDITH RIPKA

Judith Ripka jewelry: beauty, confidence, style. By Lorraine DePasque

DECO CERAMIC

1.800.522.TIME

www.michele.com

Clearly, your parents inspired you, but your line is also so more beautiful, more confident. fashionable. Do any clothing designers, past or present, influence your collections? You’re on the road a lot doing public appearances.What Coco Chanel, Valentino, Armani and Karl Lagerfeld. Fine jewelry pieces of Judith Ripka jewelry do you always travel with? is a fashion accessory, and I must know what the clothing designers are introducing so that I can make jewelry that complements their designs.

“Ambrosia” collection bracelet in 18k gold, diamonds, and colored gemstones.

Tell us about your Fall/Winter 2008 jewelry collections. One of my favorites is “Aurora”, inspired by the Aurora Borealis. During a recent vacation in northern Canada, I saw this luminous display in the night sky and I was captivated by the beauty. So I immediately began sourcing stones that resembled the same brilliance, luster, iridescence and mystery that I saw. This collection features rare pink opal, pink sapphire, and white moonstone hand-cut cabochon gemstones consciously placed in a montage to evoke the same magical luminosity of the aurora light.

I love to wear my “Ambrosia” bracelet and my “Monaco” rings because they’re happy and fun with colorful gemstones; they are extremely wearable all the time.

What’s your personal favorite piece of jewelry? My engagement ring, which I designed myself. My husband Ron bought me the diamond and two very rare emeralds, and I created what I think is the perfect ring! Although I mix and match my jewelry every day and always try to wear something different, it is that one ring that makes me smile like no other because it is a great symbol of love and commitment to my friend and husband—who is also co-chairman and co-CEO and the backbone of the company.

Is there something your customers don’t know about you that you’ll share with Accent readers? Well, I run at a very fast pace, but I make time for three things each day: quality time with my husband, a walk with my dog, Pookie, and calls to my three sons, David, Brian and Peter, just to say hello.

If a woman is a new Judith Ripka collector, what’s the perfect first purchase? My “Pearl Necklace System”. It’s a strand of pearls with a detachable 18k gold loop-and-toggle closure. I designed it in 1986 and it laid the foundation for my distinctive style, as this one pivotal piece is based on

You are involved in a lot of charity work.Tell us about that. I enjoy designing custom commemorative jewelry for charity organizations, with my most recent for Autism

THE DESIGNER CREDITS HER MOTHER, A COUTURIER, FOR TEACHING HER TO SEE THE BEAUTY IN EVEN THE MOST COMMON DETAIL. fluidity and a system of interchangeable components. This makes it versatile for wear from day into evening.

How important do you think it is that you’re a woman designing for women? Very important. I design for every woman. I believe that a woman is never too young or too old to wear jewelry because adding jewelry to an outfit makes a woman feel like she shines—more glamorous,

Speaks. I have also designed custom pieces for the United States Holocaust Museum, the Mothers’ Voices AIDS Organization, and the Long Island Philharmonic. My family and I support many charities, including the Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation, which is very near and dear to my heart.

What would you like to do next in your business? I would like to evolve into a total lifestyle brand, which ultimately means designing other products such as handbags, scarves, sunglasses, and tabletop items. ♦

“Aurora” collection cuff in 18k gold with pink opals, pink sapphires and diamonds.

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WAT C H E S

The rich history of the Cartier Tank is equaled only by its luxury. By Joseph Ungoco

ecently, I was privileged to sit on a 12-member panel of fashion industry experts at New York City’s Parsons the New School for Design. We were there to judge the graduating seniors’ fashion collections and decide who should receive the coveted Designer of the Year award. What struck me about this esteemed group of editors, writers and buyers was not the uniformity of our slim suits but our single choice of wristwatch: the Cartier Tank. An array of models was Getting Tanked: Legendary actor Clark Gable wearing his Cartier Tank. Above Left: Cartier Tank Francaise in 18k yellow gold. Above Right: Louis Cartier watch in 18k yellow gold with brown alligator strap.

represented—vintage and new, regular and oversize, metal and leather bands. (My own Tank is an 18 karat yellow gold model with a cognac alligator strap.) The popularity of this classic watch design is a testament to Cartier’s rich history and timeless luxury. The House of Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by jeweler Louis-François Cartier. His son Alfred took over the company in 1874 and in 1899, Alfred’s three sons joined the business and began laying the foundation for the global brand that Cartier is today. Cartier opened stores in London in 1902 and NewYork in 1909. Although Patek Philippe is credited with introducing the very first wristwatch, Louis Cartier is recognized for raising the popularity of the wristwatch with its Santos and Tank models. Few timepiece designs have the lasting and universal appeal of the Cartier Tank. The original was conceived by Louis Cartier, grandson of LouisFrançois Cartier, in 1917 and was a harbinger of the clean lines of the Bauhaus and Art Deco design movements that would soon follow. The legend of the Tank watch begins during World War I, with Louis Cartier drawing inspiration from the geometric lines of the omnipresent military tanks manufactured by Renault. Upon completing the first

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Timeless Appeal

prototype, Mr. Cartier presented it to General John Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Force in Europe who, until then, had worn a regulation issue American-made Hamilton watch just like the one his fellow U.S. servicemen wore. This first Tank design, later dubbed the Tank Ordinaire, was offered in only one size and variations were limited. Customers could choose between a leather strap and gold bracelet, and numerals were available in Roman or Arabic. As Cartier’s reputation as both jeweler and watch maker grew, the popularity of the Tank steadily increased. By the mid1920s, the Ordinaire was available in three sizes and a seemingly endless array of bracelet options. But the stock market crash of 1929 marked the end of an era of overt opulence, and even the venerable Cartier began to offer simple and restrained luxury items. For over 70 years, the refined Tank remained largely unchanged. Its classic design continued to attract fans, lending effortless chic to trendsetters Jacqueline Bisset Kennedy, Catherine Deneuve, Truman Capote, Andy Warhol and Yves Saint Laurent, among others. Then, in 1989, the company introduced its Tank Americaine. Based on the original Tank design,

The Tank Francaise, representing a major shift in bracelet design, was introduced in 1996. Its bracelet band was designed to evoke the caterpillar tracks of military machinery. The beveled sides of the watch and the notched edges of the bracelet softened the strict geometry of the original Art Deco aesthetics and added a distinctly French finish to the modern classic. Cartier marked its 150th anniversary in 1997 with the release of limited edition reproductions of the most unique Tank models from its design archives. The Tank Asymetrique, first offered in 1936, was brought back in both platinum and polished yellow gold. The concept and execution of this style appeared as fresh and innovative as it had over 60 years before. The Tank Basculante, with a case that pivots within a frame, was reproduced in a limited production of 150 pieces. The yellow gold version featured a stunning ruby cabochon and a “150 Years of Cartier” dial. The most recent additions to the Tank collection were designed to meet worldwide demand for larger scale watches. Today, in addition to the small, medium and large models, all three styles in the Tank collection are available in extra large sizes. These easily accommodate dual movements to track time in two zones

Tanks

for the

Memories Rudolph Valentino in The Son of the Sheik. Tank wristwatch, Cartier Paris 1920, in polished and satin-finish white gold with leather strap.

THE TANK AMERICAINE INTRODUCED IN 1989 FEATURED A CASE ELONGATED INTO A GENTLY ARCHED RECTANGLE WITH A CURVED CRYSTAL COVER. this model featured a case that was elongated into a gently arched rectangle with a curved (rather than flat) crystal covering the watch face. Ideally suited to the active and comfort-driven American lifestyle, this model showcased the first deployant strap buckle that Cartier has since popularized.

(and make quite a style statement, too). So whether you’re a world traveler who must keep up with multiple time zones or simply a connoisseur who desires a magnificent classic timepiece, check out the Cartier Tank. Its rich history is paralleled only by its luxury. ♦

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TRENDS

Good Karma

In fine jewelry these days, the message is the message. By Beth Bernstein

with my initials monogrammed in script on the front and a short passage from a favorite poem on the back. The shield signifies protection, my initials personalize the piece and the engraved poetry creates a keepsake. This is a pendant I will cherish throughout my life, and it’s also reflective of an evolving trend toward a diverse range of jewelry with meaning. Whether you’re spiritual, sentimental or a bit of both, whether you’re into the eastern tradition of yoga or have a western affinity for good luck charms, symbolic jewelry is being interpreted by a host of high-end designers in a variety of metals: sterling silver, high karat gold and platinum. Helena Krodel, Associate Director for Media, Jewelry Information Center (a nonprofit organization that educates consumers on all aspects of fine jewelry through print media and broadcasting) explains. “By its very nature, jewelry is sentimental because it’s all about

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ILLUSTRATION BY MONICA LIND

R E C E N T L Y, I R E C E I V E D A S P E C I A L G I F T: a shield-shaped pendant in 18k gold

Live Intensely. Love Intensely.

heartsonfire.com

giving and receiving pieces from loved ones to commemorate special moments and joyful occasions in life. Today’s women are interested in telling a unique story through the jewelry they wear and they feel a need to add meaning to a world that can be unexplainable at times. It’s obvious why this trend towards jewelry with a message continues to grow in popularity.” But this movement is hardly new. Jewelry with meaning dates back to ancient civilizations, when amulets in an assortment of motifs and gemstones were thought to guard the wearer from harm and protect from illness and misfortune. In modern times, Krodel attributes women’s preference for meaningful pieces to their love of three-dimensional charms. “Throughout the 20th century, charms were a way to personalize bracelets and necklaces; they relate information about the wearer—everything from hobbies to miniature versions of the handbag a woman carries. Today’s women want to say even more about themselves.”

read them. They’re very nostalgic, as the designers who use them are often channeling the 1980s or drawing from MTV pop culture.” Inspirational words scrawled onto 18k gold can be over organic and nature motifs or worked together with rough-cut and polished stones that have a meaning to the wearer. The combination is not only pretty, but also acts as a true conversation piece. “Sentimental evokes an aged feeling in antique or vintage silhouettes that can be monogrammed with names or initials on the front and a personal note on the back. They can have hidden or secret engravings, or gemstones set into places on a ring or medallion that at first aren’t visible. These pieces can also have a motif such as a family crest that is specific to the wearer. Zodiac signs and constellations also fall into this category as they are definitely individualized. Several designers are interpreting them in ultra-elegant variations.”

JEWELRY WITH MEANING DATES BACK TO ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS, WHEN AMULETS IN AN ASSORTMENT OF MOTIFS AND GEMSTONES WERE THOUGHT TO GUARD THE WEARER FROM HARM AND PROTECT FROM ILLNESS AND MISFORTUNE. Contemporary women are apt to buy pieces that reflect one or many aspects of their personalities and speak to them on a deeper level. A diamond may say “forever” but a pendant with an inspirational poem or a diamond pavé Om speaks volumes about the wearer and makes for a great gift item or self-purchase piece. “Designers are doing a really wonderful job of turning out creative, unique looking pieces that are appealing to women on various emotional levels, from allowing them the feeling of safety, to promoting physical well-being, providing something to hold on to for faith and hope when they need it and keying into their beliefs.” Krodel adds, “These pieces are being designed with a handed down, aged feeling so they look wonderful when worn in combination with real family heirlooms, vintage pieces and authentic ancient talismans.” ccording to Krodel, there are five equally important trends when it comes to meaningful jewelry. Why not mix the trends up and combine a bit of good fortune with significant messages, tokens of love, spirituality and good karma? Here, we present the trends as Krodel recognizes them. But how you tell your story through jewelry is all up to you. “Inspirational can be simple words that encourage or motivate such as peace, tranquility, hope, faith and love. These messages can be engraved, etched or stenciled. Poetry and quotes are a more sophisticated version of this. Lyrics are more tongue-in-cheek and tend to make you smile when you

“Spiritual encompasses multiple ethnic motifs taken from various civilizations, cultures and time periods.” Included here are the gods of Greco-Roman times, African imagery, Indian deities, yoga-inspired jewelry, and the mysticism of Asian and Middle Eastern nature symbols including lotus leaves, trees of life, circle of life and fertility motifs, horns of plenty and doves. “These pieces don’t focus on religious or cultural differences but instead on the common belief that these talismans will bring good fortune and a higher truth or meaning into our lives. Jewelry is definitely something that encompasses vast cultures and then becomes very particular to the wearer.” In this trend, we first saw a lot of medallions with etched, engraved, raised or recessed looks but now we are also seeing a new version with cut-outs layered over roughcut stones. For example, a lotus blossom would decorate the front of a rough-cut ruby, bringing the benefit of the stone’s healing properties together with the meaning of the symbol. “Protection is reflected mostly by the use of stones and these days, it’s definitely the more interesting rough and unpolished cuts with the feeling of ancient talismans or amulets. Raw and odd shaped amethysts, rubies, sapphires, dreusy agates, aquamarines and lapis are all being used, as are the chakra stones.” “Good Karmais seen as part of the trend towards ‘giving back’. Oftentimes, designers are involved with a cause or an organization that means something to them. By creating pieces with the same integrity as their collections, they can donate funds raised by the sales of the particular styles. If you feel strongly about a cause that a particular designer is working with, then purchasing one or more of those pieces is a way for you to help and feel connected to the world.” ♦

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INFANTRY VINTAGE CHRONO 1946. World War II is over. The U.S. Army is in a hurry to get stateside. So it sells surplus General Purpose Vehicles to the Swiss Army, which, in turn, offers them to its own veterans, extending the tradition of allowing Swiss farmers to buy their army horses cheaply at the end of their service. Today, many of these vintage vehicles still drive Swiss roads â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lovingly restored and commanding no small price when they come up for sale. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the inspiration behind this distinctive new chronograph. New to our Infantry Collection, that is. The retro, olive drab dial looks like it was there for VE Day.

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PROFILE

Perfectly

Panerai

From timepiece supplier to the Royal Italian Navy to worldwide status symbol. By Bethany Raborn

making

E F O R E I T B E C A M E a coveted brand among watch enthusiasts, the Panerai name was steeped in the adventure and daring of two World Wars, an era of heroes whose lives depended on technology and precision in their timepieces. The company began humbly enough in 1860, in Giovanni Paneraiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Florentine watch workshop. Giovanni introduced high-precision

mechanisms, innovations that were further developed by his grandson Guido. Guidoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work quickly became renowned enough to draw attention from the Royal Italian Navy, and Panerai soon became its official watch supplier. As such, Panerai responded to military needs by experimenting with long-life luminous materials and developing secret and ground-breaking technologies that would save lives.The companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research aided in the development of devices for sighting naval guns at night, timing mechanisms, depth gauges and

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mechanical calculators to launch torpedoes from high-speed boats. The Radiomir and Luminor models were born. Panerai’s collaboration with the navy lasted throughout World War II, but the name was still relatively unknown among civilians. Panerai continued its intensive research aimed at improving its watches and developing diving capabilities while facing the challenge of growing the brand. After releasing a few limited edition watches in 1993, Panerai’s future was assured when Sylvester Stallone came upon one of them in Rome and was impressed with its masculinity and technological abilities. He wore the watch in Daylight and worked with Panerai to create special editions. “I immediately felt when I saw the watch that it had star power,” said Stallone in an interview with David Prince. The “Slytech” watch was created and released in 1995 in a limited production of 200. This model and its celebrity endorsement were enough to create immediate brand awareness. The “hero intrigue” had instant and international cachet. In 1997, Panerai took its biggest leap toward becoming the world-renowned luxury watch brand it is today. Johann Rupert,

the seamless combination of James Bond-like features with sleek and stylish design. Panerai was one of the first to offer a large watch face for purely practical reasons, sparking a trend that continues to gain popularity among both fashion and luxury watch makers. Among the many celebrities who have adopted the brand, Russell Crowe is said to wear a Panerai even while working on his ranch. In continuing its innovative technology development, Panerai has created the ultimate field test laboratory through a collaboration with celebrated South African explorer and adventurer Mike Horn. They sponsored “Pangaea,” a global expedition spanning four years with the focus of “explore, learn, act” and the goal of increasing public awareness of the current state of our planet. The journey, headquartered on a ship with state-ofthe-art technology, communication and conference facilities, took Horn to all seven continents, including Antarctica, where he became actively involved in bettering the Earth. During the expedition, Horn wore a Panerai model specially designed for such an extreme mission. The watch was tested for resistance and functionality under harsh conditions. The result—

PANERAI WAS ONE OF THE FIRST TO OFFER A LARGE WATCH FACE FOR PURELY PRACTICAL REASONS, SPARKING A TREND THAT CONTINUES TO GAIN POPULARITY AMONG BOTH FASHION AND LUXURY WATCH MAKERS. CEO of the Richemont Group, purchased the company and appointed three individuals to actualize the dream: Angelo Bonati, Franco Cologni and Giampiero Bodino. Bonati was given the freedom to be creative without the pressure to provide immediate results. “This lack of immediate financial pressure created precisely the right environment for us to be creative. Because, from the very beginning, our results were extraordinary. With our first watch, we recouped the cost of purchasing the brand,” Bonati recalled in an interview. he first 1,000 (non-limited) consumer production watches were officially put on the Italian market in 1997. Much like the Hummer, they were reproductions of models originally designed for the military. The successful sales of the design led to an international launch the very next year. Within five years, Officine Panerai had received international acclaim and produced more than 90,000 watches. Watch enthusiasts were smitten. Collectors of cult military watches were drawn to a history marked by secret testing and the brand’s involvement in both World Wars. Deepsea divers and sports extremists respected the easy-to-read dials and the precision and resilience of a Panerai piece—in 1999, the company introduced Luminor Chrono’s 40mm titanium and steel bracelet and in 2000, a Luminor model water-resistant up to 1,000 meters. Aficionados and fashionistas alike appreciate

the Panerai Luminor 1950 Submersible Depth Gauge—is another product from this company that has endurance capabilities one would hardly expect from a watch. Today’s Panerai watches are constructed at the Manifattura in Neuchâtel where craftsmen and watch making specialists work with highly advanced systems to uphold their standards of excellence. The company also boasts a technical research center for materials and movements that has paid off so far; Panerai currently holds ten exclusive patents for fine watch movements. When creating a vision for the brand, Bonati wanted to produce a legitimate luxury product that was more than a fashion statement. “This is far harder,” he explains. “The keys to creating a real brand like this are based on having the best-quality movements and eventually having your own movements, evolving towards manufacturing status and having the best global distribution.” With a lengthy list of technical assets, a design that exudes simplicity despite its complicated features and a worldwide presence, the Panerai brand has certainly earned its elite status. Bonati explains. “Why is it large? It was meant to be highly visible. Why is there a special crown? For water resistance. Each of these qualities is linked to its values.” It’s been said that Panerai regularly produces fewer watches than the market demands. Whether this is a salute to the war heroes who once counted on Panerai watches for their lives or simply astute marketing is irrelevant. The point is—buy them while you can! ♦

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Be more than noticed.

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FIRST PERSON

Rocky Romance

T H E F I R S T T H I N G I N O T I C E D about Erika, glued to a

book in the Barnes & Noble coffee shop, was the beautiful pendant on a chain around her neck. It featured an intense, brilliant green stone that I believed was either a tourmaline or a chrome diopside, but I couldn’t be certain without a closer look. (To be honest, the pendant wasn’t really the first thing I noticed, but it did catch my attention and offered a great excuse to initiate conversation.) Trying to be casual, I sauntered over. “I couldn’t help but notice your necklace; is it a green tourmaline?” I inquired, hoping that this was not the gemological equivalent of asking her astrological sign. Tourmaline proved to be the correct guess, and my choice of introductory topics proved fortuitous as well. Erika was pleased that her pendant had been noticed, and was obviously proud to be wearing such a beautiful stone. She was curious as to how I knew it. I explained that tourmaline would be very recognizable to anyone who, like myself, had spent years collecting, studying and generally obsessing over fine mineral specimens. It turned out that there were other topics of mutual interest, and we were able to settle into an easy conversation. During the time it took to finish a medium latte and a few scones, I learned that Erika has an obsession of her own: colored gemstones. She’s knowledgeable about how to differentiate a good stone from a lesser one based on color, cut and clarity. She’s aware, for example, that the intense color of the tanzanite ring she sometimes wears is likely enhanced by heat treatment. But, until I came along to provide some ancillary mineralogical facts, she had no idea that tanzanite was discovered in 1967 in Tanzania, and that it’s

actually a rare form of a mineral named zoisite. I was also able to point out that she needed to be extremely careful when wearing her tanzanite ring, because it’s much softer than most colored gems and has a strong cleavage pattern, meaning it can break if it hits something. She also has a lovely diamond and peridot tennis bracelet, the pale green peridot much more subtle than the intense emerald-green of her tourmaline, but beautiful nonetheless. She now knows that her peridot stones are a form of the mineral olivine, associated with volcanic activity, and that they were probably mined by hand in northern Arizona. Does she care? I’m not sure. After two months of dating, she’s shown little interest in the numerous mineral specimens that are the overriding decorative scheme of my residential interior. (In my house, every available surface is occupied by a decorative mineral.) Perhaps she thinks of my mineral collection as a “guy” thing, analogous to softball trophies for the science-minded. In any case, as much as she loves gorgeously cut sparkling gemstones, she’s oblivious to the minerals in their natural state from which they are cut, or the fact that natural mineral crystals are my favorite art form, an abstract blending of colors and shapes that unite to form sculptures of amazing beauty. (If, as Cezanne once said, “Art is but a representation of nature,” then an art form that is itself a product of nature must be art in its most fundamental form.) Whatever, I think it’s destiny: that our passions are interrelated, that my mineral collection is a sort of parental entity to her gemstones. What better portent of eternal happiness could there be? (Especially if there’s a big diamond in our future.) ♦

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PHOTO: GREEN TOURMALINE/QUARTZ CRYSTAL SPECIMEN FROM BRAZIL/ASTRO GALLERY OF GEMS.

On Love and Minerals. By Bill Weiss

A PERCENTAGE OF SALES FROM THE ROBERTO COIN JEWELRY FEATURED WILL BE DONATED TO YOUTHAIDS, A GLOBAL INITIATIVE DEDICATED TO THE FIGHT AGAINST AIDS.

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E N D PA G E

Good

Sports

Rolex achieves the old fashioned way. By David A. Rose

W E L I V E I N A N A G E of branding. It

seems that any manufacturer can purchase a reputation by offering the right celebrity enough money to lend his or her name to their product. Fortunately, a few brands remain that have earned a reputation via quality and innovation. Rolls Royce comes to mind, as does Rolex, which is not only the largest manufacturer of luxury timepieces in the world, but a genuine status symbol since 1905. Known for its exquisite timepieces, Rolex also sponsors more than 150 upscale sporting events annually. Since Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel wearing her Rolex Oyster wristwatch in 1927, Rolex has been both sponsor and partner to international events spanning golf, motor racing, tennis and equestrian events, yachting and the arts. Yachting is perhaps the company’s best known sponsorship. Events include The Rolex Farr 40 World Championship, ISAF Rolex World Sailor, Giraglia Rolex Cup, Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, The Rolex Fastnet Race, The Rolex Middle Sea Race, Rolex Swan Cup, Rolex Sydney HobartYacht Race and the Sardinia Rolex Cup. Motor racing has enormous appeal worldwide and Rolex is a sponsor for three of its most exciting events: the 24 hours of LeMans, the 24 hours of Daytona (title sponsor) and the Goodwood Revival, a vintage motor race where the cars are from the 1950s or earlier and spectators dress in period clothing. Since motor racing is measured in hundredths of seconds, it is fitting that Rolex add its legendary reputation for precision to these events. Rolex sponsors Wimbledon as well as the Davis Cup, Australian Open and the Masters Series Monte Carlo in the world of tennis. In the U.S., Rolex is the sponsor of the International Tennis Hall of Fame, one

of the highlights on the famed Bellevue Drive in Newport, RI. The Tennis Hall of Fame and Museum is a tribute not only to tennis, but to the gilded age. The building was Stanford White’s first design and was built in 1880. It’s the ideal starting point for a visitor’s tour of the famous Newport Mansions. As for Golf, the PGA Championships and the U.S. Open are sponsored by Rolex as are the PGA European Tour and The Ryder Cup Matches, among others. Equestrian events have been sponsored by Rolex for years and include the Badminton Horse Trials, the Rolex IJRC Top 10, The Rolex Kentucky three day event, the World Equestrian Games and the three day Burghley Horse Trials. According to Rolex’s Vice President and Director of Communications, Peter Nicholson, “The combination of exceptional products, memorable advertising and long term associations with crown jewel sporting events has been fundamental to the growth of Rolex.” But while sponsorships provide visibility and status, the only way to maintain an impeccable reputation is by delivering superior product. Rolex can boast having produced the first waterproof watch, the first wristwatch with a date on the dial, the first watch to show two time zones at once and the first chronometer wristwatch. The company also produces watches for extreme sports such as mountain climbing, deep sea diving and aviation. The Rolex name is recognized all over the world and has achieved its reputation the old fashioned way: by earning it. ♦

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Tank ® Française