HQ Pony Magazine Issue 22

Page 6

GRANOLA STALL BALL

Tasty grained goodness available in 4 flavours.

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NEW

welcome

Hello and welcome to Issue 22 of HQ Pony Magazine!

We hope this edition of HQ Pony Magazine finds you well and full of equestrian enthusiasm!

As always, our team have worked hard to bring you a jam-packed pony-filled magazine. In this issue, we feature articles on nutrition, health and activities for a rainy day.

It’s been a busy month of shows, and March looks to have even more excitement on the calendar, so stay tuned to our social media channels for the latest updates.

Thank you, as always, for your support! Until next time,

Happy horsing!

Lots of love,

GET IN TOUCH

We’d love to hear from you and receive your photos, drawings or pony-related thoughts. To get in touch send an email to lizzie@hqmagazine.co.za and we’ll get back to you!

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CONTENTS Junior rider profile – Kiara Burn Groundwork, Part 2 5 fun things to do with your pony when it rains An introduction to equitation Keeping a white pony white Sidebone Feeding to build muscle Puzzle fun Pony Q&A 06 12 16 20 26 32 38 44 46 4

Horse and rider Junior Rider Profile

Kiara Burn

Kiara Burn is a name familiar to anyone who knows anything about South Africa's Open Junior riders! She is the current SA Junior 1.30m Championships title holder and holds this for the second time. Beyond this, she is an incredibly passionate equestrian who loves her horses above all else! Kiara kindly did a 'horseback' interview and gave us some insight into her background and what the year ahead holds!

HQP: Can you tell us a bit about yourself?

I am 17 now and have been riding since a very young age, probably about four years old. My dad (Simon Burn) was a big rider, and we have horses on the property, so I have always had horses in my life. My dad and Simon Hendry would give my best friends and me little pony-riding lessons at home, and that was how it all started for me.

HQP: Did you have your own pony, and can you tell us a bit about your pony rider experiences?

Yes, my very first pony was one we had living at the house; she was a little grey pony called 'Mimi', and she was so sweet! There's not really much excitement to report from that time as the most complicated thing we did was 'round the worlds.'

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Interview | Amelia Campbell-Horne
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Horse and rider

After Mimi, we bought another little grey called Swan Prince. This was when I started to ride more and was getting into it. He gave me a bit of a scare because he would run away with me often. I actually wanted to stop riding for a while, and I was terrified to get back on him. We had to take a few steps back from there, and I started slowly on the lunge again, and I did get back into it. We took him to a little show with poles on the ground, and that was just so much fun. I went with my friend, and we even did a little pony dress-up competition. She had a black pony, so we painted white spots on him and black spots on my grey pony. That was a good experience for me!

HQP: It seems like a lot of riders have had an 'I don't want to do this' moment in ponies! How did things progress from there?

I really didn't want to carry on, but my dad was pretty persistent! I had a few ponies before I moved on to Juniors. I started riding at Sun Valley Stable - that was my first riding school. I rode a pony there called Scandal, who was an interesting character… Quite forward and liked to run away! But I also had one at home called Zanzibar, and he was just the sweetest thing; I loved him to bits. So, I continued with my riding there, and a few years later, I moved to Kincardine with my last pony, Precious Penny, and from there, I transitioned to horses.

We tried a horse, and I loved him, so we brought him home and started having lessons with him, but that didn't work out. I would fall off him basically every lesson, but I just loved him. He was so cuddly… but it just didn't work out when I rode him!

Then, I was going to go to Youth Champs in 2018 in PE, and my dad wanted me to take another horse with me so I could have the experience and opportunity of having two there. So, I went to ride a horse at Bronwyn Meredith Dos Santos a few months before then, and I was just supposed to ride him at Champs… but four years later, he is still sitting in my stable, 'On Fire'. He was my first real competitive horse, and he's still with me today and has taken me to the 1.35s!

HQP: Tell us about some of the horses you will be riding/competing this year?

I have a lot I can say about On Fire! It didn't start off perfectly, not that any partnership ever does. He was quite difficult to get used! We went up to the 1.10s, and that didn't work out, so we went back down to the 1ms, and once we started to trust each other, it improved from there, and I did my first 1.20m at the beginning of 2021. It was actually during COVID, and I was so lucky to have my horses at home, and riding was all I could do, so I think that really got us working together well; I became more consistent riding him, and he learnt to trust me!

I also jumped Lindor in the 1.20s at the same show. He is a horse that my dad bought off the Callaho Auction that he was producing with Simon Hendry. I started riding him in 2020, and I actually had a bad fall with Lindor at the beginning of 2021, but didn't realise how bad I was until a few months later when the pain in my back was still there and it turned out I had fractured a vertebra!

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HQP: Tell us about some of the horses you will be riding/competing this year?

I have a lot I can say about On Fire! It didn't start off perfectly, not that any partnership ever does. He was quite difficult to get used! We went up to the 1.10s, and that didn't work out, so we went back down to the 1ms, and once we started to trust each other, it improved from there, and I did my first 1.20m at the beginning of 2021. It was actually during COVID, and I was so lucky to have my horses at home, and riding was all I could do, so I think that really got us working together well; I became more consistent riding him, and he learnt to trust me!

I also jumped Lindor in the 1.20s at the same show. He is a horse that my dad bought off the Callaho Auction that he was producing with Simon Hendry. I started riding him in 2020, and I actually had a bad fall with Lindor at the beginning of 2021, but didn't realise how bad I was until a few months later when the pain in my back was still there and it turned out I had fractured a vertebra!

(HQP: Such a horse rider thing to say!)

I had to take a couple of months off riding but came back and jumped my first 1.30ms at the end of 2021. So, we took them to Cape Town (Youth Champs) and On Fire won the (1.30m) Championship there, which was awesome!

Then, I also started riding my dad's other Callaho, which he got off the auction a few years back, Caspar. That has been quite a tricky one to navigate. He is a very different horse; it has taken a lot of time and hard work with him, but I think we are in a good spot now, as he won the 1.30m Champs at Shongweni Youth Champs last year!

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Horse and rider

HQP: Well done! Do you only do show jumping?

I fell in love with showjumping, but when I did SANESA in the pony days, I did pretty much everything to figure out which discipline I really liked. My dad never said so, but I think he was quite relieved that jumping was the one he enjoyed the most! It was also lucky for me as he happened to be in the process of bringing up two showjumpers in the back garden!  I also still enjoy equitation; it has another side that is still involved with jumping but also the discipline that comes with it.

HQP: And we hear that you've been successful with your equitation too?

Equitation really has been great! I think I won quite a bit on Penny, too, in the Pony Rider Opens. Then I did equitation on Lindor too. We started at Intermediate to see how it would go, and he won it! So, we moved up to Opens and did Champs at Mistico (SA Youth Champs 2021). We came second individually and qualified for the Phillip Smith Memorial Trophy. Caspar and I competed in that last year. The jumping part went so well, even in the pouring rain, which was unpleasant! I ended up third, but it was such an amazing experience! I carried on in the Open Equitation last year. Lindor and I won quite a few qualifiers. We tried to qualify again at Champs last year (the top four from Champs qualify for the Phillip Smith), but unfortunately didn't do such a great job, only coming 7th overall. But I was on the Gauteng Open team last year, and we won that, so that was some consolation!

HQP: What would you like to achieve in the long term?

I want to get Lindor and Caspar to the 1.40ms sometime this year. Hopefully, sooner rather than later! I would love to jump Lindor in the Mini-Derby. I also just want to give it my all for the Junior titles, as it's my last year to go for them, so I am going to try my best. On a smaller scale but still exciting (and scary), I want to get Hermes, my little Callaho baby, to some shows soon.

HQP: Who coaches you, and what do you enjoy most about your lessons and stable yard experience?

I ride at Kincardine with Joanne Van Achtenburg, but I also have Kelly Slater helping me with equitation and some flat work sessions, so she comes to our equitation shows, but jumping is Jo. I have been riding at Kincardine for four years, going on five now. I love being there; Jo is just so helpful in any and every way that she can be. She goes above and beyond for her clients and puts the horse first. The lessons and competitions are always so enjoyable. It is a great environment in general! We go to shows, and we can joke and laugh, but then we all know that there is a time to be serious, but overall, it is fun. I had the opportunity to do a bit of travelling with Jo, going to Mistico and Shongweni, and she is always so happy to help and be there for us, and that is really great.

HQP: Who inspires you in equestrian sport?

I don't really think that there is one person who inspires me. I view it more as wanting to do better for my horses and try to be the best rider I can be. Although, I do look up to Charley Crockart as a rider. I think she is a great rider, and she makes the most difficult horses look so easy, and I would love to ride like her.

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HQP: What does your training schedule look like with the horses?

For Lindor and Caspar: Monday and Tuesday alternate between hill-work and flatwork with cavalletis. On Wednesday, I take them for a jump at Kincardine. Thursday, they go for a hack around the estate, and Friday is normally flatwork lessons with Kelly or equitation if an equitation competition is coming up. Then Saturday and Sunday alternate; one is a lunging day, and one is an off day (unless we are competing, of course!). And then with my Callaho baby, his schedule isn't completely set and is a little bit chaotic still. We try to do some work on Monday and Tuesday, a walk out on Wednesday and then Thursday/Friday is some work again. Then depending on when we can find time on one 'work' day, we have a jump at home for now. We are starting to take him out to Kincardine to get him used to the outing. Then it's the same thing for Saturday and Sunday - a lunge and a day off.

HQP: What is the one piece of riding equipment you can't do without?

I 100% have to say my Erreplus saddle! It is so comfortable, and I feel so safe and secure in it; it is perfect for my horses, and I know that they feel comfortable. It looks good too! I have to say it just really is perfect. I am lucky enough to have all my horses in an Erreplus, and I can't imagine jumping them in anything else!

Kiara, we wish you all the best, and we can’t wait to see you up on the podium again soon!

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Horse and rider

GROUNDWORK

YIELD FORWARDS WITH AN INDIRECT FEEL

Part 2

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Over the past few months, we’ve received an increasing number of questions about getting started with groundwork. Whilst we advise that an instructor helps you to get started, there are a few basics you can teach at home that ultimately form the foundation of all groundwork activities. Over the following few issues, we’ll look at these basic building blocks of your groundwork toolbox and help you to build a solid foundation for your in-hand work.  In our last issue, we looked at moving forwards using a direct feel, and in this issue, we look again at moving forwards, but this time with an indirect feel.

YIELD FORWARDS WITH A DIRECT FEEL

IMPORTANT

Make sure your horse is okay with you using a stick from the ground before you introduce this exercise. Some horses are very wary of a whip, usually because of a past experience, and in these instances using a stick on the ground is unsafe and should be avoided, until some work has been done with a behaviourist or experienced trainer to combat the issue.

Our previous exercise asked the horse to move forwards towards you. In this exercise, you’ll be using a more familiar technique to ask for forwards. This technique is particularly good for retraining those horses who plant their feet and refuse to move when leading. It is also a key element required when training a horse to go into the horsebox.

Equipment

A halter and long lead rope Gloves

How to do the exercise

Start by standing facing forwards at your horse’s shoulder. You can start on the near side to begin with. Place your rope in your left hand with your arm across your body. Your stick should be in your right hand. Lift your energy and focus your belly button forwards on where you want to go.

Extend your left arm forwards in front of you and point your finger forwards so your horse can see it, but the rope is not exerting feel on the halter. This is the cue you want your horse to follow ultimately. If the horse doesn’t move, extend your lead rope forwards, so he feels the halter on the back of his head and underneath his jaw.

If he doesn’t follow the feel on the halter, you can reach backwards with your stick and lightly tap on the side of his hindquarter to invite him to follow your suggestion and move forwards.

Return your left arm and right hand to the neutral position as soon as your horse starts to move. Only step forwards with your horse when he steps forwards.

Practise the exercise with you on both the near and far sides.

A helmet A longer stick e.g. a dressage stick
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DID YOU KNOW?

When a foal is born, his mother encourages him to stand up and moves him in front of her by nipping him on the rump or root of his tail. This is a little bit like you are doing in this exercise when you encourage him forwards, using the stick lightly on his hindquarter.

Points to note

You want your horse to learn to follow the lightest cue, so make sure you always offer the lightest cue before putting pressure on the halter or tapping him on his hindquarter. If you try to pull your horse forwards, he is more likely to plant his feet or go backwards.  Keep your energy projecting forwards, and try not to look back at your horse all the time. Instead, learn to feel what he is doing. Reward the slightest try from the horse and gradually build up the number of steps you ask for.  Over time you should be able to get a response with less and less pressure.

Troubleshooting

If your horse does not move, continue to tap lightly but rhythmically on his hindquarter while giving him the cue to step forwards. Do not tap harder, and certainly do not become frustrated – show patience and reward the effort with the release of the pressure when he moves forward.

If your horse walks a few steps and then stops, simply repeat the process again. If your horse walks forwards but drifts across your path, bring your stick forward in front of you to block him from coming into your space.

ULTIMATE GOALS

Ideally, you want to be able to do this exercise at trot. The ultimate goal is, therefore, to reach a stage at which your horse trots when you ‘trot’, without the use of the halter or stick.

NEXT TIME

In our next edition, we will look at asking your horse to back up using a direct feel.

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In photographs - Horse of the Year 2023

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things to do with 5 fun your pony when it rains

The rain is a tiny bit ridiculous at the moment, with days of hot sun broken by what seem to be weeks of rain…! But fear not, HQ Pony Mag has you covered with five super fun things to do with your pony when it's raining.

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Horse and rider

1. Practice leading your pony

If your stable yard has a big barn or long undercover walkway, you can practice leading your pony when it's raining. It's always a good idea to teach our ponies how to walk next to us instead of dragging us behind them or us having to drag them.

Get your halter and practice walking your pony up and down. The correct position when leading your pony is to have his head in line with your elbow. Grab a few of your friends and see whose pony leads the best.

Here are some tips on leading your pony.

If your pony is trying to pull past you: Ask him to back up and stand.

If your pony is having to be dragged: Gently use your whip (as instructed in the Groundwork, Part 2 article) to encourage him to speed up.

If your pony is very, very lazy: You may need to have extra encouragement to get him to move. We find carrots are the best form of bribery!

Make many stops when practising and change your leading speed to keep it fresh. After a session, or two, like this, your pony should lead much better.

2. Bring a friend to meet your pony

We are sure you have told all your friends about your special pony, so why not bring one or two of your friends along to meet him on a rainy day? It will brighten up your day and theirs.

If your friends don't know anything about ponies, you can always tell them about your pony and teach them how to groom or tack up a pony. Maybe they will enjoy meeting your pony so much they will want to start riding with you.

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Horse and rider

3. Teach your pony a trick

By teaching your pony how to do a trick or two, you will learn a lot about how to talk to your pony. Some ponies learn new tricks very fast, and others a bit slower. There are so many tricks you can teach your pony. Some of the tricks can be done while moving, and other tricks need to be done while standing still. You will need to do some research and learn how to do the tricks because each trick is taught differently.  Here are some tricks to teach your pony when it is raining: Come here 'Starlight': Teaching your ponies his name and getting him to come to you is a very neat trick, and it will make the rest of your riding a lot easier.

Know which stable is mine: Teach your pony which stable is his and to go into the stable all by himself! Lift your feet: Teach your pony to lift each foot when you ask him to. Put your head down: Teach your pony to drop his head when you ask him to.

Remember, ponies have very short attention spans, meaning they can only learn the trick for a few minutes at a time. If you find the trick is not working, let him have a break and try again after some time.

4. Play with your pony's ears

It may seem like a silly thing to do, but most ponies really like it, and it helps them relax.

Always be gentle with your pony's ears. Not all ponies like their ears being played with, so make sure he likes it before you dive right in.

How to tell if your pony likes having his ears played with:

If he lets you touch them.

If he keeps his head still and does not make any sudden movements.

If he gets all relaxed and starts to close his eyes.

If he falls asleep.

How to tell if your pony does not like having his ears played with:

If he does not let you touch his ears.

If he pulls his head away when you try to touch his ears.

If he puts his head up high where you can't reach his ears.

If he does not stay still.

If your pony likes having his ears played with, then start by stroking them from the base to the tip, or moving them gently in small circles.

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Horse and rider

5. Give your pony a break

Did you know that most ponies work for six days a week and only get Mondays off?

Ponies work very hard for the whole year and deserve a break every now and then. It is always a great idea to give your pony a break when possible, especially when he is ridden by multiple riders.

Use the opportunity of a rainy day to sit with your pony. Don't ask him to do anything; just talk to him and give him lots of love, cuddles, and maybe a few carrots. This is a great time to get to know your pony better and he will also appreciate the day off!

Have fun with your pony on a rainy day!

Enjoy practising leading your pony, playing with your pony's ears, introducing your friends to your pony, teaching your pony a new trick or giving your pony a well-deserved break! With all these fun ideas, your rainy pony days can be bright again – just remember to invite your friends along to join in on the fun.

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An introduction to Equitation
| @tana.scott_equestrian
rider
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Text | Tana Scott Instagram
Becoming the best
you can be

Here at HQ Pony Mag, we firmly believe that equitation is one of the best disciplines you can do to make yourself a better rider for your horse or pony. Here we give you a brief introduction to the discipline from a rider who has excelled in the sport for many years, Tana Scott.

An introduction

The word ‘equitation’ was originally used to refer to the overall position or style of the rider when in the saddle. The meaning of this word was then taken to create the discipline called (you guessed it) Equitation.

Equitation, which can be ridden by riders of any age and ability, can be ridden at training or graded level and is a recognized discipline under the South African Equestrian Federation. When riders enter an Equitation test, they can expect to be judged on their position and how effective they are when in the saddle. A good Equitation rider is capable of riding in a neat and effective manner and can display a true connection between themselves and their horse or pony. They should also have the ability to ride other horses and ponies in the same neat and effective way.

Ultimately, the purpose of Equitation is, therefore, to improve riders’ skills by providing them with correct instruction and helpful tips to allow them to become the best possible rider they can be. It is the only discipline in which the rider and their influence on their equine partner is formally judged.

Equitation is a discipline that was introduced to South Africa in the 1970s by the talented Mrs Charlotte Stubbs
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DID YOU KNOW?

Horse and rider

The levels

In Equitation, different tests are created which combine a flatwork part, which is now known as ‘Part 1’, and a course consisting of approximately 8 jumps, now known as ‘Part 2’. There are then four levels that riders may compete at in Equitation:

Welcome (60cm)

At this level, the riders are required to do basic transitions such as halting, walking, trotting and cantering.

Elements may include: trotting poles, Figures of 8, cantering a jump on a circular track, a small gymnastic, and canter poles.

There are two parts to each test at this level.

Novice (70cm)

At this level, the riders are required to do more complex transitions and movements.

Elements may include: trotting a Figure of 8 over trotting poles, cantering two poles on a circle changing rein through the circle, cantering a more complex gymnastic and jumping fences set at right angles.

There are two parts to each test in this level.

Intermediate (80cm)

In this level, the riders are required to do more complex transitions and movements than in Novice.

Elements may include: cantering two jumps on a circular track, cantering a vertical on a Figure of 8 track, trotting a more complex gymnastic, jumping fences set on a zig-zag, cantering a Mercedes, performing rollbacks and adding and subtracting strides in a related distance.

There are three parts to each test at this level.

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note

In the Intermediate and Open levels, there is a third part to the ridden test in which competitors swap horses or ponies with each other and ride the new test.

Open (90cm)

In this level, the riders are required to do more complex transitions and movements than in Intermediate. Elements may include: jumping bounces on a curve, adding and subtracting strides in a related distance, cantering a related ‘s-bend’ and cantering a ‘looping star’. There are three parts to each test at this level.

Each test is created in a way that tests the riders and provides them with basic flatwork exercises to complete, which, in the future, will help them achieve the best possible results. Each part in the Equitation test will be judged by either one or two judges, and once the test is completed, the judges will then score each part out of a possible 20 marks. The rider with the highest mark at the end of the class will be announced as the winner. In Welcome and Novice, the score is out of 40 marks in total and in Intermediate and Open the score is out of 60 marks in total.

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Horse and rider

Turn-out

A large part of Equitation is the correct turn-out of the horse/pony and rider combination. Horses and ponies are required to have their manes and tails plaited and to be neatly groomed and presented with clear, correct tack. Riders are recommended to wear beige breeches, a collared shirt with a tie or a Chinese collared show-shirt, a neutral-coloured show blazer and polished boots. Hair should be tied up, and the overall impression should be of a neat and well-presented rider and horse or pony.

Take-home message

Equitation is a fun discipline that has been enjoyed by many top and recreational riders over the years. It provides a great opportunity for riders to improve their skills and the way in which they work with their horse or pony. Equitation shows are hosted all over the country and give graded Equitation riders an opportunity to earn points and to be chosen for a team that will then represent the province at the South African Championships at the end of the year.  Equitation is seen as the basis for all disciplines in the equestrian sport as it teaches the riders to apply the correct aids, sit correctly, hold the correct position and ride effectively. These skills are used in all the other equestrian disciplines, and doing Equitation as a discipline will make you a better all-round performer.

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In photographs - Horse of the Year 2023

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Horse and rider

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GRASS AND STABLE STAIN REMOVAL

Some stains from the paddock or stable are more difficult than others to remove, but the secret to success is to deal with them as soon as you see them. The longer stains are left, the harder they are to remove. You have been warned!

Stable stains

Use warm water on all stained areas. The warmer the temperature, the easier it is to lift the stain out. NOTE: Be careful not to use water that is too hot as you could burn your pony! Wet the stained area with a sponge or spray directly from a hose pipe.  Apply a stain removal spray and massage in well with a massage pad or firm bristled brush. This part is VERY important and will help to loosen the dirt. You must then leave this for a few moments before rinsing off.

For stubborn stains, or before a show or competition, shampoo and massage the area as well before the final rinse.

Grass stains

These can be difficult, but if they are dealt with quickly, they come off more easily. Apply the same method above in the first instance.  On hocks and other areas, where grass stains can be deep-seated, and there may be a more permanent discolouration, a chalk-based whitener will disguise it. This is something that you only need to do for competition or show purposes.

A whitener can be applied by dipping a damp sponge into the powder or by mixing a small amount of the powder and water in a pot and painting it on with a brush. In both cases, allow drying before brushing off any residual powder.

Horse and rider
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Horse and rider

YELLOW TAILS AND MANES

This is a common problem and really depends on how long the urine has been left in the tail. The longer the tail has been unwashed, the harder it will be to get it to go back to its original whiteness. With mares, in particular, urine can stain the tail more easily, and if left for a long time, will absorb into the hair follicle, creating a more permanent stain. However, if washed once a week and conditioned afterwards, the chance of permanent staining of the tail is reduced.

To regain original whiteness may take anything from one good wash to many weeks and months of regular washing and conditioning, so be patient.

How to wash

Immerse the tail in a bucket of warm water and allow to soak for three to four minutes for the hair to really absorb the water. Soak the mane thoroughly with warm water too.  Spray in stain remover is helpful at this stage, particularly if dealing with a lot of discolouration. Apply the stain remover to the tail and/or mane and massage in well. Leave for three to four minutes to let the product soak in before rinsing.

Apply a whitening shampoo. These are made specifically for whitening and brightening and use colouring to help negate the yellow of the stain and bring out the white. Rub in well before rinsing and repeating using warm water.  The next stage is to make up a blue powder rinse. The technique of ‘blueing’ as it is called will enhance the whiteness of any white hair and can be used for manes, tails and all over the body. Follow the instructions that come with the product. Generally, this will involve using a small amount of blue powder mixed in a bucket of water and soaking the mane and tail for a few seconds before giving a final rinse in warm, clear water.

Lastly, apply a mane and tail conditioning lotion. This will provide a barrier against the urine in between the weekly washes. Apply the lotion two or three times a week to ensure no further staining penetrates the hair.

Repeat this washing and whitening procedure each day for the first week for stubborn staining.

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FETLOCK STAINS

General white fetlock care

White fetlocks are difficult to keep clean, but with just a bit of effort, they can be returned to pristine condition. It just remains to be seen how long you can keep them this way… For general grass and stable stains on the fetlocks, follow the instructions above.  Regarding specific fetlock care, beware of allowing the fetlocks to remain damp for too long, as this can cause skin issues.

Feather care

Keeping thick feathers white and clean takes a massive amount of time and care. But keeping feather hair well looked after will ensure the skin underneath is well cared for too. Wet and muddy conditions will create a haven for bacterial under thick feather hair and can cause sore and cracked skin. Care and maintenance as part of the grooming routine will ensure skin problems will be noticed, so it’s crucial to make feather care a daily part of your routine.

rider
Horse and
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TO LOOK AFTER FEATHERS:

Apply a good quality barrier oil to provide protection against water and mud and allow feathers to be brushed through more easily. The addition of flowers of sulphur can also help to keep feather mites at bay.

Keep on top of any stains and remove them daily. Stains that are left will be much harder to remove. Invest in a good quality stain remover and purple shampoo to help lift the stains and prevent new ones.

After washing, it’s quick and easy to dry feathers by using an old-fashioned method involving wood flour. Fluff the flour into the feathers; this will add volume and aid in the drying process as well as help keep the skin healthy.

For added whiteness, especially on show days, use a fine mineral-based whitening powder after applying wood flour. Apply directly to the feathers and work into the hair, brushing out afterwards.  This will also aid in drying and give additional whiteness and volume. The whitening powder can be mixed with water and painted on the leg. Less is more when applying in a wet format.  Finish by applying a spray-in conditioner. This will protect the hair and make it easier to brush through and provide a barrier against dirt and staining.

THE GOLDEN RULES

1. Do a patch test: With greys, and especially those with pinkish skin, you must be careful when introducing new products. Always perform a patch test where you test the shampoo and cleaning products on a small area to check that they don’t irritate and cause problems before applying them to the whole body.

2. Buy decent brushes: Certain bristles will work better for shifting mud and dirt but you will need softer brushes for finishing off and flicking out the remaining dust.

3. Choose sensible rugs: Only rug to protect the white spots, if the weather is suitable. Over-rugging is a welfare issue.

4. Beware household items: Many will advise using household cleaning products to ‘whiten’ your pony, but this is potentially dangerous.

5. Keep on top of the problem. Start a weekly routine and attend to stains as soon as they appear. The sooner you take action, the less you will need to do in the long run.

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In photographs - Horse of the Year 2023

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Sidebone

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Horse and rider

Sidebone is the name given to the medical condition that results in two of the key cartilages of the horse’s foot (the collateral cartilages) hardening to become bone-like. It is a very common finding in horses, but a diagnosis that lots of horse owners are very afraid of. Yet, according to our vets, sidebone is often not something to panic about.

Here we look at sidebone in detail and discuss just how much we should panic when we hear our beloved horse or pony has developed it.

The collateral cartilages

The collateral cartilages are two pieces of cartilage - one on the inside and one on the outside of the horse’s foot. These cartilages are found just above the heel of the foot and run forwards towards the toe. They sit mostly within the hard shell of the hoof. They are attached to three of the bones in the foot (the pedal bone, and the short and long pastern bone). You can feel the cartilages as slightly squishy areas above the hoof in the heel of your horse or pony.

These cartilages are a part of the shock-absorbing mechanism of the horse’s foot. Horses and ponies are heavy animals so when they land on the ground with each foot they need a way to absorb some of the shock and force that is created. This is the job of the collateral cartilages and the digital cushion (another structure in the foot).

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Sidebone

Sidebone is described as the mineralisation of the collateral cartilages of the hoof. This mineralisation makes the cartilages more bone like and rigid. If the collateral cartilages have become mineralised in this way, you can often feel the changes by feeling the hardening around the heel of the horse. Some swelling is also often seen just above the top of the hoof. Sidebone is more common in the front feet than the hind feet because the front legs carry more weight.

However, as we said in the beginning many vets are telling us that sidebone is actually not something we should panic too much about. They say that most horses with sidebone are not lame, and that if they are lame it is not because of the sidebone itself, but rather the sidebone pressing on other sensitive parts of the foot.

Predisposing factors

The following factors make horses more likely to develop sidebone:

Heavy landings on the front feet, such as is experienced in showjumping.

Poor foot balance, i.e. poor farriery.

Heavier horse breeds like the Percherons and Shires.

Poor limb conformation as this can make horses or ponies carry their weight differently.

Direct trauma to the collateral cartilages.

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Diagnosing sidebone

PHYSICAL EXAMINATION

Physical examination by your vet will usually reveal hard collateral cartilages and swelling above the hoof capsule.

NERVE BLOCKS

Your vet may do nerve blocks of the heel region to numb any pain from the collateral cartilages. The problem with this method is that it also makes other structures in the area numb, so all you can see is that the heel has pain but not which structure is the main problem.

X-RAYS

X-Rays are often taken once the site of lameness has been confirmed. It is generally best to scan both front legs to allow both sides to be compared to each other.

OTHER INVESTIGATIONS

Bone scans and nuclear scintigraphy may provide more information about whether the side bone is making the horse lame or not. These tests can show if the sidebone is inflamed or not. If the sidebone is inflamed it is more likely to be the cause of the lameness.

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Horse and rider Treatment

If sidebone is proved to be the cause of lameness, treatment starts with good farrier work to balance the foot. A common farriery technique used in these cases is to shoe the affected horses with flat, wide, webbed shoes with a rolled toe, which are wide at the quarters and heels and extend beyond the ground surface at the heels to support the heel regions and allow for expansion. Nails should not be used behind the mid-quarter of the foot.

Balancing the feet like this often makes the lameness go away. Unfortunately, the cartilage is unlikely to go back to having a normal appearance, but provided the area is not inflamed, the horse or pony should stay sound!

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In photographs - Horse of the Year 2023

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FEEDING TO BUILD MUSCLE

Whether you ride your pony competitively or just for fun, you want to keep him looking and feeling his best. Of course, exercise is a crucial piece of the health puzzle, but food must also be considered.

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Your pony needs to get the ideal amount and type of nutrition for him to perform and feel at his best. Here we look at the suitable types of feed for your pony and give you some tips on building the muscle he needs to cope with the demands of work.

NOTE: The condition of the pony and the state of his musculature depend on a several factors such as age, health condition, conformation, training level and nutrient intake.

Horse and health WORKLOAD

Your pony’s nutritional needs vary depending on the level and intensity of his workload. It’s important to accurately identify the type of work he’s doing so you can meet his energy requirements appropriately.

LIGHT WORK

Ridden exercise 3-4 times per week

Works for up to two hours each time, including walk, trot, canter and some hill work

May be doing some low-level dressage and showjumping competitions

If your horse is in light work, you should be able to meet all of his energy requirements with a forage only diet – meaning grass or hay. Although this will provide a large proportion of his energy needs, his diet will still need to be balanced according to the key nutrients that the forage lacks, such as vitamins, minerals and quality protein. You can do this by feeding a balancer to help support performance and recovery rates.

MEDIUM WORK

Ridden most days in a structured training programme

May be competing at upper-level dressage, showjumping or eventing Includes low-goal polo ponies and endurance horses

Ponies and horses in medium work will still get most of their energy from good quality forage, but this can be supplemented with higher energy mixes or cubes (concentrates) that are formulated for performance horses. If your pony/horse is a good-doer, the minimum quantities of these types of feed may still be too much for him. Therefore, you might need to provide the extra vitamins and minerals his diet lacks using a performance balancer.

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Horse and health HARD WORK

Training and competing at the peak of their physical capabilities

Includes high-goal polo ponies and horses competing in three-day events

These horses and ponies tend to rely on concentrates to provide the energy they require for the work they’re doing. Many performance feeds contain a variety of energy sources, such as cereals, digestible fibre and oil to formulate a balance of quick- and slow-release energy. Of course, a full forage ration must also be provided to these horses and ponies.

What are the causes of poor muscle building?

• Injury related training breaks during which the horse does not get sufficient movement.

• Old age

• Irregular or incorrect training

• Insufficient exercise

• Poor conformation

• Metabolic disorders

• Low nutrient intake/inappropriate nutrient intake

MUSCLE BUILDING

Working your horse often and correctly is key to building his muscles, but for them to grow, they need to be supported by the right nutrients at the right levels. A balanced diet is essential, but the primary food group you’ll need to supplement for muscle repair, renewal, and growth is quality protein.

Proteins are made up of building blocks called amino acids. There are 22 amino acids in total, and they are split into two types:

Essential: These must be provided in the diet

Non-essential: These are naturally produced by your pony’s body.  The amino acids lysine and methionine must be present in your pony’s diet for optimal muscle function, cell renewal and tissue repair and growth; yet, they’re two of the most commonly deficient amino acids in the diet.

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LYSINE METHIONINE

PROTEIN QUALITY CONTROL

Very often, horse owners look for the protein percentage of a feed when, in fact, it’s much more important to look for a good quality source instead. Raw materials that naturally provide goodquality protein include soya-bean mean, lucerne, linseed and peas, which will be listed on the ingredients label of your feed bag. Even though a feed may be high in protein, it could be from a poor-quality source and would need to be fed at higher levels. For example, cereal grains tend to lack sufficient lysine, so they are considered to be a poor-quality protein. If you were to feed your pony a diet where protein is mostly from cereals, you might find that he struggles to develop muscle tone and topline no matter his workload. With a lack of high-quality protein, it’s also possible that your horse would experience muscle soreness, become more prone to infections and, in extreme cases, you may even start to see the muscles wasting.

Horse and health
Pea protein is gaining popularity as a supplement in South Africa.
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It is not just the stress of competition that affects the horse, but also the amount of travelling.

Horse and health

COMPETITIVE EDGE

Don’t rely on a salt lick for ensuring your horse has sufficient salt in his diet.

If you’re feeding your pony the recommended levels of a wellformulated feed and as much quality forage as he needs, you shouldn’t need to add extra nutrients to his bucket feed. However, if you regularly compete, he may benefit from a few added extras. These include:

Vitamin E: This important antioxidant helps support muscle function and immune status. Research has shown that natural vitamin E (d-alpha-tocopherol) is better absorbed than synthetic vitamin E (dl-alpha-tocopherol). Vitamin E supplements can be used before and after a competition. You just need to make sure that you get the quantities right as Vitamin E can be toxic if too much is given.

Electrolytes: Electrolytes play an important role in fluid balance, circulation, and nerve and muscle activity. Ponies in hard work or those who travel often will lose electrolytes through sweat, and for these ponies, it’s important to replace this loss with an electrolyte supplement. The most important electrolytes are sodium, chloride, potassium and calcium.

Salt: Some ponies will consume their daily ration of salt – around 30-50g – from a salt lick in the stable, but many will not. It is usually safer to add salt to the feed than to rely on saltlick usage.

Antacids: The stress, irregular feeding times and restricted forage intake that can happen with competition can put a strain on a pony’s digestive system. An antacid supplement can be fed to help maintain normal gastric health as well as help to maintain a horse’s appetite during competition.

Note: The amount of time it takes to build muscle in a horse depends on various factors, including age, health and training condition. It is thus essential to remember that every horse needs a different amount of time to build up his muscles. Patience is key!

ASSESSMENT

One of the best ways to determine whether your feeding programme is working for your horse is to regularly condition score him and keep a record of his performance. It is also a good idea to take monthly photographs from both sides, the back and the front, to record how the body changes.

If you are unsure how best to modify your horse’s diet for the work he is doing and to maximise his performance, chat to your equine nutritionist. They are best placed to assess your horse and ensure his diet delivers the desired results. They can also help you determine your horse’s optimum weight, which will help keep him performing and feeling at his best throughout the season.

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In photographs - Horse of the Year 2023

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PUZZLE FUN

Can you find these parts of the horse in our wordsearch?

Barrel | Cannon bone | Chestnut | Coronary band | Croup | Dock | Elbow | Ergot | Fetlock | Forearm | Gaskin | Hock | Hoof | Knee | Mane | Muzzle | Pastern | Tail | Throatlatch | Wither

NOTE: Spaces and any punctuation marks have been removed

M C P E Y Z L I E E T F E T L O C K R T B A I D P E T O L E A B F E R T I E O L E B N I I D N A B Y R A N O R O C A V E R E T E H J N N O U F O E K C A L B E D G S T R P O T A W M D R L D I Z N I H S A C Y P O L C U Q Z A C I E T E R A C T N O R A C Y E K R U S H A X L O L L T C R O P C C C H G E L G E T P U O R C A A E C A A H E C G R G B S T B A Y C U L N R O C H E S T N U T I T D O C K S B T N T Q G N I K S A G R Y N N O T E I R A O I O E O E A B B E A M U G S P B R N O N W E D Q A G I U N L U T E O H A P A R B E S A U U R F B A R R E L R O B E O H O B T R H W O A O R K C B Z R E Y I R T N E F K A O U D S R M A O Z E B P L E A E R O B H O P I K N E W T U U U S L U C T G R A D A H N I D C A A M E D I E L Z A O L Y O C A D N Y G I R N I L E E B O E T O V C K P A S T E R N M E L T H E G R
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Can you spot all 10 differences?

PUZZLE FUN

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What is the Horse Grimace Scale?

The Horse Grimace Scale is a pain assessment tool that identifies six facial expressions of a horse or pony and scores them on a scale of 0 (not present), 1 (moderately present) and 2 (obviously present). The expressions are:

• Stiffly backwards ears – the horse’s ears are held stiffly and turned backwards, causing the space between the ears to appear wider at the top than the bottom.

• Orbital tightening – the horse’s eyelid is partially or entirely closed.

• Tension above the eye area –contractions of the muscles in the area above the eye causes the underlying

bone to appear more prominent.

• Prominent strained chewing muscles –this is due to increased tension above the mouth.

• Mouth strained and pronounced chin –a strained mouth is clearly visible when the upper lip is drawn back, and the chin appears more pronounced.

• Strained nostrils and flattening of the muzzle’s profile – the horse’s nostrils look strained and slightly dilated, and the profile of the nose flattens with elongated lips.

The overall score gives an indication of the degree of pain a horse or pony is experiencing.

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My pony brings his hindquarter into the inside in the canter, and I was marked down for it in my last dressage test. How do I fix this?

Ponies usually canter in this way when they are not strong enough to hold themselves straight. Building strength is therefore vital in helping your pony to straighten up. However, it is also worth noting that if a pony gets ‘used to’ cantering in this way, it can become a habit. This means that even when strength is improved, and the pony can canter more correctly, he may still choose to canter with his quarters in, simply because he’s always cantered like that. The good news is that schooling can fix this. The bad news is that this takes time.

To work on strength, you need to do lots of cross-training with your pony. You’ll need to do hill work, pole work, lots of transitions, and possibly even a few gymnastics.

Then, in terms of the reschooling, you will need to work on riding from the outside rein. You do not want to be pulling on the inside rein, as this will make the quarters

come in even more! You need to feel as though you can move the pony’s shoulders as you canter using the outside rein. You want to be able to move the shoulders off the track to the outside to try and rebalance your pony and cause him to work more correctly from the hindquarter. Similarly, you can help him undo the old movement patterns by using the outside rein to help him canter in shoulder-fore. This can help to reset his old habits in canter, and engage the hindquarter properly.

Then, in terms of specific strength work for the quarters, you can try and teach your pony the counter-canter. At first, you will need to help him by keeping him flexed over his leading leg until he gets used to this. Then, over time, you need to see if you can flex his neck to the inside (away from the leading leg). This is difficult for the pony, so you need to practice it in short yet frequent bursts.

Once you easily have control of the shoulders with the outside rein, and you know that your pony is strong behind, you should find that the problem improves significantly, if not disappears entirely.

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What should my pony’s manure look like?

A pony’s manure can tell you a lot about his health. Manure should be made up of firm, well-formed balls. Very loose droppings or very dry droppings are always a cause for concern so if you notice this you should speak to your stable manager, so they can contact the vet. Ponies generally pass manure every couple of hours, so if your pony goes for a few hours without passing manure, you should again consider giving your vet a call.

It is also worth checking manure for undigested food, as this can be a sign that your pony is struggling with his digestive system in some way. It could be that his teeth need some work; that he is receiving too much food, so it is passing through too quickly to get adequately digested; that his gut is intolerant in some way to the food he is getting; or that he has a digestive issue that needs looking at.

The other thing to look out for is visible worms. Sometimes, although thankfully not often, worms can be visible in the manure and, in these cases, you really know that the worm burden is high and that action needs to be taken!

Basically, if you notice any change from the norm when it comes to your pony’s manure – get it checked!

Is it okay to turn my pony out in overreach boots?

It’s very common to see ponies turned out wearing overreach boots. If your pony is prone to overreach injuries or the pulling of shoes, then these boots are a good idea!

However, in order to allow your pony to be turned out in overreach boots, you must make sure that they fit properly and do not rub him. You will also need to choose a sturdy pair with strong Velcro tabs that will stay in place. All overreach

boots, wherever they are worn, must be removed at least once a day for a few hours to check for any rubs or injuries and, importantly, to allow the hoof some exposure to the air.

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What are the different kinds of flocking in saddles?

There are several types of flocking that are commonly used in saddles. Below are the main types:

• White wool has long fibres, is softer and settles more quickly than other kinds of wool. However, it needs more regular checks and more regular top-ups than the other variants because it settles so quickly.

• Grey or brown wool is another very popular long-fibre flocking and tends to settle more slowly.

• Synthetic wool is another option, but, like with white wool, the saddle will need more frequent checks and more regular top-ups as it settles quickly. Synthetic wool should never be used with pure wool in a mixture.

• Air flocking generally refers to a system

of four airbags that provide a soft, flexible and even weight-bearing surface. The air system is inserted into the panel and gives the saddle a flexible layer of shockabsorbing air. These bags can each be individually adjusted at any time.

• In addition to flocking, many saddles nowadays have a panel lining. Materials used for the lining include foam or felt, which help to provide a softer feel for your pony.

Saddles should be checked every six months or whenever you notice a drop in the performance or condition of your pony. Generally, they need reflocking every two years, but this does depend on the level of use and the flocking chosen. During the two years, the flocking that is present in the saddle can be redistributed, removed or supplemented but, by the end of two years, the flocking is typically compacted and in need of a full replacement.

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OUR NEXT EDITION OF HQ PONY MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE ON 5 APRIL. SEE YOU THEN!

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