breathe issue 36 Autumn 2013
wine & food month
Carl Davies
Meet The Locals
Wine Reviews
What’s On
De Iuliis wines is one of the Hunter Valley’s top producers. The secret to our success is our attention to detail and small batch approach, which has seen a vast array of awards and great reviews bestowed on us over the last few years.
Regionality and a modern approach to winemaking ensure unique yet highly identifiable wines with a sense of time and place. One of the hardest names to say in the Australian wine industry, but also one of the best!
1616 BROke ROAD, POkOlBIn nSW 2320 P 02 4993 8000 E SALES@DEWINE.COM.AU SAleS@DeWIne.cOm.Au
DEWINE.COM.AU DeWIne.cOm.Au
keeping it simple
Taste @ The Small Winemakers Centre & Hunter Resort
T/F 02 6574 7371 E sales@thomaswines.com.au W thomaswines.com.au
behind every taste there’s a tale…
Discover over 150 years of winemaking experience with a trip to Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley winery. We are proud to share our rich heritage by taking you on a journey beyond the Cellar Door – explore our red and white winemaking facilities and see first hand the old oak vats and historic red cellar, still in full operation. Visit the original iron bark hut built by Edward Tyrrell and then let our Cellar Door team guide you through as tasting of our award winning wines including: • Vat 1 Semillon - Australia’s most awarded white wine. • Vat 9 Shiraz - our flagship shiraz and rated 97 Points in the 2012 James Halliday Australian Wine Companion. • Johnno’s Semillon and Shiraz – sourced from vines over 100 years old. • Single Vineyard semillons, chardonnays and shiraz – all scoring over 93 Points in the 2012 James Halliday Australian Wine Companion VISIT US: 1838 Broke Road, Pokolbin NSW 2320 CONTACT US: Ph: (02) 4993 7000 Email: info@tyrrells.com.au info@tyrrells.com.au www.tyrrells.com.au www.tyrrells.com.au TyrrellsWines
CELLAR DOOR: Monday to Saturday, 9am - 5pm & Sunday, 10am - 4pm Winery tour daily 10.30am, cost $5 per person, no bookings required Private group tour & tastings available
contents
issue 36 Autumn 2013
14
10
18 Every Issue
5 7 25 35 45 50
President’s Note News Meet the Locals Extra, Extra What’s On Out & About
Wine
10 14 18 22 28 29
2013 Vintage Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month Wine Profile: Carl Davies Wine in the Colonies From the Cellar Wine Reviews
Food
COVER PHOTOGRAPH of Robert Molines, mike De iuliis, troy rhoades-brown & liz jackson BY CHRIS ELFES. STORY ON PAGE 10. Photographs by Chris Elfes appearing in BREATHE may be purchased by contacting Chris Elfes, Photography on Hermitage. elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au
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36 A Melting Pot of Talent
Lifestyle
42 Art: Of Time and Peace
42
BREATHE
president’s note
W
ho could believe it’s autumn already, and another difficult but successful harvest is done and dusted.
Publisher Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association
EDITOR Melinda Kelly P 02 4991 4533
E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au graphic design Sally Sneddon Graphic Design P 02 4934 4781 E sally@ssgd.com.au www.ssgd.com.au
Photography
Despite some unwanted rain mid-harvest, overall, the quality of the fruit was excellent. However, tonnage was generally down by approximately 25 to 30 per cent across the Hunter Valley. With good quality fruit and great winemaking skills, there’s no doubt that some fantastic wines will come out of 2013. On page 10, 2011 Hunter Valley Viticulturist of the Year, Liz Riley, takes a look at Vintage 2013. Great wine starts with superior vineyard management and the resulting quality grapes. On page 18, Melinda Kelly interrupts vintage to chat with Carl Davies, 2012 Hunter Valley Viticulturist of the Year, who, for 30 years, has been tending and nurturing some of our oldest vines.
Chris Elfes Photography P 0413 805 222 E elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au www.chriselfesphotography.com.au
SUB-EDITOR
Lauren Kennedy E wordhappy@gmail.com
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Melinda Kelly P 02 4991 4533
E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au EDITORIAL Writers
Luke Campbell, Melinda Kelly, Virginia Mitchell, Grant Radford, Rhiannon Stevens.
Printing
Finsbury Green P 02 9662 2600
Publisher DETAILS Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association P 02 4991 4533 E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au ABN 15 728 023 119 All correspondence to: PO BOX 352, Cessnock. 2325 © COPYRIGHT This publication may not, in whole or part be reproduced, translated, copied, photocopied to any form without the express written permission of the publisher. While every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising there from. The information and figures contained in this publication have been provided to the publishers by the advertisers and their sources. No warranty is given by Breathe Hunter Style Magazine as to the accuracy of these figures and information as they are subject to change without notice. The responsibility or copyright on all supplied material rests with the supplier.
As the oldest wine-producing region in Australia, the Hunter Valley has an amazing history, one which historian Dr Julie McIntyre has been researching, documenting and retelling for several years. Turn to page 22, where Rhiannon Stevens speaks to Julie about her new book, First Vintage: Wine in Colonial New South Wales. Here in the Hunter Valley, we love our wine and food lifestyle so much that we’ve dedicated an entire month to it. Held each June, the Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month is a celebration of our wonderful wine and food culture, and we’d love you to join us. Turn to page 14 for a taste of what you can expect during Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month 2013, and to see what some of our winemakers and chefs got up to on a recent promotional shoot. More event details can be found on the What’s On pages, and go to huntervalleyuncorked.com.au for a full calendar of events. With a host of event categories like Winemaker’s Tables, Class Is In, Pure Wine Indulgences, Winter Warmers, and Chef’s Plate Lunches, Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month is the perfect time to come and indulge in the simple pleasures of Hunter Valley life. We look forward to seeing you very soon.
Andrew Margan, President
Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association
Wine Shipping for the International Tourist WINEFLITE SHIPS DOOR-TO-DOOR WORLDWIDE ED, HAND E! Y T P E EM E HOM LEAV R WIN U O Y SHIP
We pick up your wine at any winery, wineshop, or hotel and deliver it directly to your door. Worldwide! wineflite.com W INEFLITE.COM
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0421 837 716
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william.sneddon@uon.edu.au william.sneddon@uon.edu.au
h c n u L g n o L e l a d e v o L 20th Anniversary
81 & 19 May 2013
Hunter Valley
Enjoy an entire weekend of fine wine, gourmet food and live entertainment across seven Lovedale wineries, with Saturday entry packages including re-admission on Sunday. Bookings essential for groups of 20 or more people.
Visit www.lovedalelonglunch.com.au for event information and ticket purchases.
CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR Hunter Valley Legends & Wine Industry Awards 2012
WINE OF THE YEAR 2007 Epic Hunter Valley Shiraz
Citibank New South Wales Wine Awards 2012
2450 Broke Rd Pokolbin NSW 2320 P 02 4998 7666 E wines@hungerfordhill.com.au wines@hungerfordhill.com.au W www.hungerfordhill.com.au
PLASDENE GLASS-PAK MOVES CLOSER TO WINERIES Long-term Australian wine packaging supplier, Plasdene GlassPak, has relocated to larger, custom-built premises in Rutherford, closer to the Hunter Valley wine country. “Thanks to our loyal business partners, Plasdene Glass-Pak is experiencing tremendous growth. Our decision to move to larger, custombuilt premises in Rutherford within close proximity to the Hunter wine region ensures we can continue to support our clients with the highest level of service, which they deserve,” says Plasdene’s Marketing Manager, Jayne Pearson. The custom-built premises at the new development, Anambah Business Park, is a significant investment for Plasdene Glass-Pak, and includes a modern packaging plaza and showroom, and larger warehouse space with capacity to accept FCL and B-Double truck deliveries, to boost Plasdene’s stock-holding capacity in the Hunter. The new Plasdene site opened for business in January 2013, and follows their acquisition of the J. McCarthy packaging distribution business in 2011.
News
Keep up-to-date on what’s been happening in the Hunter Valley
Diary Dates Upper Hunter Wine & Food Affair Saturday 4 May 2013 upperhunterwineandfoodaffair.com.au Simply Harvest Simply Hunter Long Lunch Saturday 11 May 2013 oakvalewines.com.au Lovedale Long Lunch Saturday 18 & Sunday 19 May 2013 lovedalelonglunch.com.au Hunter Valley Legends & Wine Industry Awards Thursday 23 May 2013 Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month June 2013 huntervalleyuncorked.com.au Hunter Valley Heritage Award Cairn Unveiling Friday 5 July 2013 info@winehuntervalley.org.au 2013 Clear Image Hunter Valley Wine Show Celebrations Luncheon Friday 16 August 2013 Hunter Valley Uncorked Balmoral Saturday 3 November 2013 huntervalleyuncorked.com.au
On the wine front, Hungerford Hill welcomes Adrian Lockhardt as Chief Winemaker. A Hunter Valley local and 2001 Wine Society Young Winemaker of the Year, Adrian has returned to wine country after gaining 16 years’ experience across Australian and international wine regions. After eight years making Poole’s Rock and Firestick wines, Usher Tinkler has left Poole’s Rock to focus on his own family label, U and I, and to take up the winemaking and production at Tower Estate. Joining PICTURED Adrian Lockhardt PICTURED Michael Robinson him at Tower Estate is another Hunter Valley local, Andrew Leembruggen, who returned to the Hunter Valley two years ago and has been making wine for Drayton’s Michael Robinson has taken over as Margan Family Wines. Restaurant’s Head Chef, as Josh Davidson returns to Sydney to start a family. Michael trained at The Bathers Meanwhile, Jeff Byrne has been appointed Agnew Wines’ Pavilion in Sydney, and worked at La Trompette in London Chief Winemaker and, along with Audrey Wilkinson and Ortolan in Los Angeles. He then joined Justin North as Vineyard, he is now responsible for Cockfighter’s joint Head Chef at Bécasse, before launching the Bécasse Ghost, Poole’s Rock and Firestick wines. group’s Quarter 21 as Head Chef.
WHAT’S News
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NEWS AUSTRALIAN TOURISM AWARDS GOLD Two Hunter Valley businesses have taken out top honours at the Qantas Australian Tourism Awards. Congratulations to Margan Restaurant, who won the Gold Award for Tourism Restaurant & Catering Services, and Wyndham Estate, who was also awarded Gold for Tourism Wineries, Distilleries & Boutique Breweries.
PICTURED Andrew Thomas, Thomas Wines and Sally Evans
Wyndham Estate Public Relations & Operations Manager, Stephen Guilbaud-Oulton, says these awards are further testament to the Hunter Valley’s reputation as a tourism destination of choice. PICTURED Minister Hodgkinson and Brian Agnew, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard
MORE TROPHIES FOR HUNTER VALLEY WINES Hunter Valley Semillons led the charge at the recent Sydney Royal Wine Show. Congratulations to Thomas Wines and Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard, who picked up two trophies each, while First Creek Wines took out one trophy. The Thomas Wines 2007 Cellar Reserve Braemore Semillon won Best Named Vineyard Wine and Best Small Producer in Named Vineyard Classes; Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard’s 2006 Museum Reserve Semillon won Best Aged Vintage White and Best NSW Wine in Any Class; and First Creek Wines’ 2011 Winemaker’s Reserve Semillon won Best Varietal Semillon. Thomas Wines received four Gold medals and Pepper Tree Wines received two Golds, while Bimbadgen, McLeish Estate, Two Rivers, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard and First Creek all collected one Gold medal each. Meanwhile, at the 2012 National Wine Show of Australia, Tyrrell’s Vineyards 2005 Vat 1 Semillon won the trophy for Best Semillon Premium Class, Brokenwood Wines’ 2007 Stanleigh Park Vineyard Semillon won Best Table Wine Aged Class, and Audrey Wilkinson Vineyards 2006 Museum Reserve Semillon took out the Semillon Trophy.
“At Wyndham Estate, we are very proud to be acknowledged for our ongoing commitment to providing a tourism experience that is highly regarded by our domestic and international visitor,” he said. In total, the Hunter was represented by six finalists, all who deserve congratulations for being recognised at a national level. Meanwhile, the Hunter Valley was also proudly represented at a state level at the New South Wales Tourism Awards, with the following business bringing home Gold Awards: Belinda Stapleton, Spicers Vineyard Estate Young Achiever in Tourism Award Phil Hele, Hunter Resort Outstanding Contribution by an Individual Margan Restaurant Gold, Tourism Restaurant & Catering Services Wyndham Estate Gold, Tourism Wineries, Distilleries & Breweries Somewhere Unique Gold, Unique Accommodation Brand Hunter Valley Gold, Tourism Marketing PICTURED Stephen Guilbaud-Oulton, Public Relations and Operations Manager, Wyndham Estate
CHEZ POK IS BACK at peppers guest house After a brief interlude as Restaurant Sanctuary under previous management, the much loved Chez Pok restaurant at Peppers Guest House has made a return to the Hunter Valley. First opened almost 30 years ago, the restaurant has a new Executive Chef, John Edwards, and a new French inspired menu. “In keeping with the vision for the restaurant set by the original owners Mike and Suzi O’Connor, we want to create a sense of community achieved in the early days,” notes Brian Rooney, the newly appointed General Manager, Peppers Guest House. PICTURED Brian Rooney and John Edwards
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NEWS TRIPLE TROPHIES FOR McLEISH ESTATE Boutique Hunter Valley winery, McLeish Estate, has hit the jackpot, taking out three trophies at the 2013 Sydney International Wine Competition. The 2007 McLeish Semillon won Best Wine of Competition, Best White Wine of Competition and Best Lighter Bodied Dry White Table Wine. PICTURED TOP and right Robert Molines makes a speech at The Cellar Restaurant’s 35th anniversary celebrations
MANY HAPPY RETURNS Many happy returns to the Hunter Valley’s iconic The Cellar Restaurant, which recently celebrated its 35th anniversary. Now owned and operated by Janet and Andrew Wright, the restaurant was opened in January 1978 by Sally and Robert Molines, who transformed the building from the original tuckshop operated by McGuigan Wines. Unusually for the restaurant industry, there were only a couple of changes of ownership before the Wrights became part owners in 2003 and full owners in 2005. Under their care - besides small changes to maintain the building - physically, the restaurant has remained the same, including the lush indoor gardens and huge central fireplace. Over the last 35 years, The Cellar Restaurant has become a Hunter Valley icon, and a place and experience close to the hearts of both locals and visitors to the Hunter Valley.
These latest wins top off an exciting time for the McLeish family and their team - the wine also won Best International Semillon at the 2012 London International Wine Competition and a further five trophies at national and international levels. Robert McLeish, General Manager and Director, said, “Consumers worldwide are looking for more elegant, aromatic wines with lightness of palate. We have continued to push varietal definition and intensity in all our wines, and it’s a great compliment to our team that this commitment is winning international accolades.” The wine is made under contract by Andrew Thomas.
Congratulations also to Hunter Valley Living Legend, Jay Tulloch, who has celebrated his 50th vintage. Reflecting on his half century, Jay says, “The Hunter Valley, being what it is, with variable vintage conditions - we have seen it all before, and tend to take it all in our stride.” JYT, as he is known to friends and peers, remembers 1971 as undoubtedly the worst Hunter vintage, 1965 as one of the best for reds, with the famous 1965 Private Bin Pokolbin Dry Red Shiraz, and 1983 as one of the most memorable, with a union strike resulting in no cellar hands or workers. Jay began his career in the family business, Tulloch Wines in December 1962 at the age of 18. Working mainly in the vineyard to start with, he went on to establish himself as a driving force of the Hunter Valley wine industry, and is recognised as an individual who has shown long-term vision and commitment to the betterment of the industry.
Keeping up with the
Hunter Valley
We’d love you to join us. Our winemakers and local wine families will be tweeting and updating on a regular basis.
PICTURED Robert McLeish
Twitter.com/hvbreathe Twitter.com/_hunterwine Facebook.com/pages/Hunter-ValleyWine-Industry-Assocation
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WINE
2013 VINTAGE WORDS BY Liz Riley & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
Vintage ‘13 (or #V13, as it became known across Twitter and other social media) was a great harvest for the Hunter Valley. The 2012-13 growing season was the driest in many years and, after a slow start, vintage began unexpectedly early. 10
BREATHE autumn 2013
N
eil McGuigan beat his brother Brian to the punch this year and set the ball rolling, with Pinot grapes for sparkling wine coming off his home block on 8 January 2013. It didn’t take long for others around the Valley to jump on the bandwagon - the harvesting of dry whites commenced in an orderly fashion the following week. Chardonnay from the early sites came in first, along with some older blocks of Semillon, and some stunning patches of Verdelho. (There will be stiff competition for ‘The Tiara’ this year - the affectionate nickname for the Verdelho Trophy at the Hunter Valley Wine Show.) With one third to half of the whites in the shed, most winemakers then decided to pause proceedings for a few days, to allow flavours to catch up to the sugar ripeness. The Semillon, still out in the paddock, needed just a few more days to mature from slightly green and grassy to a more yellow and rich flavour profile.
Just as this was starting to occur, the aftermath of Cyclone Oswald descended upon the Lower Hunter. While we are eternally grateful not to have been ravaged by floods, the rain did create a degree of havoc for vineyards and wineries. We had the great advantage of knowing that rain was coming, and there was a 48-hour period of frantic picking and processing in the lead-up to its arrival. Tractors, bins and grape harvesters were at a premium, and everyone worked very long hours... but that’s what vintage is all about. The harvesting of the reds began before whites were finished. With more rain threatening, there was some strategic picking of Shiraz. The rain came and went with minimal impact, and after another week of lovely dry, sunny and breezy weather, the baumé* levels jumped up and ripe, fruity flavours abounded. It was so exciting for both winemakers and growers to see rich red juice samples on the lab bench.
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WINE
Shiraz started to come off the vines at a steady pace and, again, there was great excitement in seeing bin loads of black grapes and purple juices flowing into the crushers at wineries across the district. The dry season gave us lovely small berries with thick skins, and the open canopies saw colour and flavour development that was top-notch. The back end of February saw the later-ripening varieties of Cabernet, Merlot, Vermentino and Sagrantino all come off the vines. So, #V13 has been successfully completed, with many winemakers and viticulturists breathing a sigh of relief that they’ve got this one well and truly nailed. *baumé: A measure of the sugar content in unfermented grape juice. Each degree of Baumé is equivalent to 18 grams of sugar per litre, and, when fermented, will result in approximately 1% alcohol.
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wine school
Take a sensory journey around the world, all without leaving the Hunter Valley. The World in a Glass Wine School is an enjoyable, two-and-a-half hour wine workshop pitting the key Hunter Valley varietals against their counterparts from other major wine regions in Australia and France. Bookings: 02 4998 2992 or firstcreekwines.com.au 600 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin.
Every Saturday and Sunday 10:30am-1:00pm FiRSt CREEk WinES • PokolBin • HuntER VAllEy
Visit McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant and taste some of our most iconic wines from original vineyards. They are impeccable expressions of their unique terroir, having established themselves amongst the most revered and acclaimed wines in the Hunter Valley. Throughout the months of Autumn we are very proud to give visitors to our Cellar Door the opportunity to purchase wines from the McWilliam’s Family & Friends collection. You will receive a 25% discount on carton purchases when you mention this advertisement.
Don’t forget to ask for a tasting of our iconic Lovedale Semillon, considered by many to be one of the greatest single vineyard Semillons in the world and our Original Vineyard reds which need no introduction. Winery tours are conducted daily at 11am for $5.00 per person, weather permitting. Phone Mount Pleasant Cellar Door on 4998 7505 or email mtpleasant@mcwilliamswines.com.au
WINE
Celebrating Hunter Valley
Wine&Food Month WORDS BY Melinda kelly & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
In preparation for Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month 2013, we invited a couple of our leading chefs and winemakers to join us on a photo shoot. This is what happens when chefs Robert Molines and Troy Rhoades-Brown, and winemakers Mike De Iuliis and Liz Jackson help themselves to the prop basket. PICTURED FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Robert Molines, Bistro Molines; Mike De Iuliis, De Iuliis wines; Troy RhoadesBrown, Muse Dining & Muse Kitchen; Liz Jackson, First Creek Wines
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ur Hunter Valley winemakers and chefs work hard, but they also know how to enjoy life. After the frenetic months of vintage, here in the Hunter Valley, we relish the arrival of winter as a time to kick up our heels and celebrate the fruits of our labour.
So, this June, we are hosting even more fantastic wine and food events, dinners and classes during Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month, so you can join us and indulge in the best of the Hunter Valley. BREATHE autumn 2013
If you can picture yourself sitting by the fire with a glass of wine, or indulging in a feast at a gourmet restaurant, Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month should be on your to-do list. This much-anticipated annual event showcases the region’s diverse wine and food culture with a monthlong series of themed activities.
Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month is the perfect antidote to cure those winter blues. It provides you with a chance to wine and dine with leading Hunter Valley winemakers and chefs, take part in an array of fun and interactive classes to fine-tune your culinary skills or, if you’re after a relaxing experience, to simply curl up beside an open fire with a glass of premium Hunter Valley wine and a cheese plate. This year, Hunter Chefs & Co will hold its legendary Food Fight during Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month, pitting the culinary skills of the Hunter Valley’s ‘Masters’ against the region’s ‘Young Guns’. Bruce Tyrrell, fourth-generation Hunter Valley winemaker and self-professed bon vivant says, “We are lucky to live in a region that is renowned for its premium wine and gourmet restaurants, and never need a reason
to enjoy both. However, Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month provides the perfect excuse to get family and friends together and celebrate with incredible food, matched with a few bottles of wine.” Organised by the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association, the 2013 Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month is proudly supported by the NSW Government’s tourism and major events agency, Destination NSW, through the Regional Flagship Events Program. During the month-long festivities, there will be a variety of accommodation and event packages, so come and indulge in the simple pleasures of Hunter Valley life. For a sample of activities on offer, turn to page 46 or head to huntervalleyuncorked.com.au for a full calendar of events, plus details on how to book tickets and accommodation.
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WINE PROFILE
Carl DAvies
Keeper of the Vines WORDS BY MELINDA KELLY & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
C
arl Davies, one of the Hunter Valley’s leading viticulturists, knows only too well that great wine starts with good vineyard management and quality grapes.
For the last 30 years, Carl has dedicated his professional life to providing the best care to some of the Hunter Valley’s oldest vineyards. During this time, he has worked with a host of Hunter Valley winemakers to produce scores of award-winning wines. “I’d like to acknowledge all of the winemakers who I’ve worked alongside, including Murray Robson, Kees Van De Scheur, Chris Cameron, Chris Archer, John Cassegrain, Karl Stockhausen, Bruce Tyrrell, Andrew “Spinner” Spinaze, Mark Richards, Mark Woods, Jeff Byrne and Usher Tinkler. They’ve all been part of my success as a Vineyard Manager and of all the awards and trophies that have been won over the years,” says Carl.
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He lists the rejuvenation of the historical Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard over the past 20 years as one of his proudest achievements, and one that has gone on to yield countless successes at wine shows, from fruit grown under his supervision. Although Carl is now semi-retired and has stepped down as Vineyard Manager due to health reasons, his dedication and focus in the vineyard remains. He now focuses his efforts on research and development of new techniques, and the ongoing preservation and improvement of parcels of 40-year-old Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz vines. Melinda Kelly interrupts the 2013 vintage to chat with Carl.
PICTURED Carl Davies
What is the appeal of working with vineyards? The biggest appeal is that every year is different. You face ongoing changing weather conditions, and every vintage is different to the next. Wines are not a carbon copy from year to year. What has been the best or most rewarding experience for you, whilst working in the wine industry? At the end of each vintage, you can see the end result of your blood, sweat and tears for that season, in the bottle. It’s a good feeling.
You face ongoing changing weather conditions, and every vintage is different to the next. Wines are not a carbon copy from year to year.
You were named the 2012 Hunter Valley Viticulturist of the year. How was that? Apart from a few other achievements in my life, that night was one of the proudest moments I have experienced, and it did take quite some weeks for me to come down from the clouds. A special thanks to the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association and all sponsors involved. It would be great if these awards were replicated in other wine regions throughout Australia to acknowledge those who have dedicated their lives to the industry. What led you to working in the wine industry and, more importantly, how did you become a viticulturist? On leaving school, I started as a Trainee Department Manager at David Jones, and it only took a year working indoors to realise I was definitely not suited to this type of work. At 19, I started my own business, as a milkman, which I ran successfully for ten years. When I sold the business, I wondered what on earth I was going to do. Six weeks later, I started working for Murray Robson Wines at Mount View as a gardener. Watching how a vineyard was run really took my interest, and I started learning the basics. 30 years later, I am a proud Vineyard Manager for Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard.
Along with being named the 2012 Viticulturist of the Year, in 2002, I was also involved in the Pepper Tree Wines and Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard team that won the ChemCert Award for ‘best practice in agricultural veterinary and related chemical usage for a corporate farm in New South Wales’. What has been your worst experience working in the wine industry? Unfortunately, 20 years ago, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard was a laughing stock in the Hunter Valley. I remember applying for the vineyard supervisor job: standing there with Murray Robson, looking from the top of the hill, and he said, “Well, Carl, you’ve always come across to me as someone who likes a challenge.” If I’d known what I was in stall for, I probably wouldn’t have taken the job. Everything needed major work, including the soils, irrigation, trellising, dams, and, at that stage, there was a 90 per cent infestation of a boring beetle called Fig Longicorn, which had already wiped out many vines. We had a professional consultant, Dr Richard Smart, look at the vineyard, and his response was, “You’re pissing in the wind.” How do you deal with the everchanging weather leading up to harvest and the stress it can cause? Gee, I’m only 36 and look like I’m 56 - or is it the other way around?! Some say grey hair is a sign of maturity - I say it’s a sign of stress! Honestly, there are no real solutions to the stress of vintage; you just have to deal with whatever gets thrown at you. It’s character-building!
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WINE PROFILE The vineyard management is very interesting, and everything you do, you can expand on - like soils, irrigation, mechanical, weather, soil moisture probes, pests and disease. Then, there is also viticulture itself.
everything you do, you can expand on - like soils, irrigation, mechanical, weather, soil moisture probes, pests and disease. Then, there is also viticulture itself.
Who or what has influenced you most, professionally? While I’ve worked at Audrey Wilkinson, there have been two owners - Fairfax, and the Agnew family. When I started at Audrey, it was a privilege to work for James Fairfax and his Board of Directors. For 13 years, we worked to overcome the vineyard problems and changed the efficiency of its production, and quality of its fruit. A lot of money was spent to get Audrey Wilkinson to this stage. For the last eight years, I’ve worked for the Agnew family, and again, it’s been an absolute pleasure. Their dedication to the Hunter Valley is overwhelming.
PICTURED Carl Davies
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What advice would you give to someone wanting to get into this side of the industry? It is a shame that more young people aren’t entering the wine industry. Winemaking seems to attract more interest, but on the vineyard side, we are a dying breed. The vineyard management is very interesting, and BREATHE autumn 2013
What are the best bits about living and working in the Hunter Valley? Living in the Hunter Valley is very rewarding. I love the great views and the people who live here, and being close to beaches and the airports makes life easier. What do you see as the future of the Hunter Valley wine industry? The wine industry in the Hunter Valley will always face challenges, particularly with the constantly changing weather conditions - whether that’s climate change, or just the way the earth has been for thousands of years. The legends of the Hunter Valley, even going back to late 1880s, all had their fair share of problems, and I believe we can overcome the challenges we now face. With Sydney and Newcastle airports so close, and transport options always improving, the Hunter Valley will continue to thrive. Everyone has a favourite Hunter Valley hideout. What’s your favourite place in the Hunter Valley? Abermain and my home are my best hideouts in the Hunter Valley. However, to bring my stress levels down and recover from vintage, I escape to Seal Rocks for a week or two - then I am ready to face another year. To date, what has been your best ever wine and food experience? The 1999 launch dinner for Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard was fantastic. The theme was ‘Wild’ and it featured a huge range of Australian meats, including kangaroo, emu and crocodile, all matched to Audrey Wilkinson wines. Superb!
info@verandahrestaurant.com.au www.verandahrestaurant.com.au
WINE HERITAGE
[James] King was furious that his wine somehow missed the Great Exhibition, and he sold the wine he had planned to send to London. Having a change of heart, he bought it back from the buyer and sent it directly to Queen Victoria’s husband. No mucking about - straight to the top!
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Wine in the
Colonies WORDS BY RHIANNON STEVENS & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
Dr Julie McIntyre retells the forgotten events of early Australian winemaking in her book, First Vintage: Wine In Colonial New South Wales. Here, she shares some stories of our past with Rhiannon Stevens.
J
ulie McIntyre has brought the history of Australian wine to life with her book, First Vintage: Wine In Colonial New South Wales. Wine in Australia has paralleled the country’s colonisation, with vines, barrels and bottles travelling to Australia in 1788 with the First Fleet. Julie believes that the history of wine should be told as a part of our national story. Yet, wine has had a different role compared to early staple industries like wool, tobacco, grain and mining: “It’s a story about wealthy risk-takers, convict workers, German migrant workers, land selectors, confusion over vine varieties, experiments with winemaking equipment, phylloxera, and much more.” The idea of a colonial wine industry was primarily driven by a New World vision for a highly civilised, affluent and cultural nation. First Vintage describes how, in the 19th century, the ruling classes wanted to create an Australian wine industry that would eventually create export income, but also one which would encourage sobriety and
Busby had carefully assembled grapevine stock from across Europe which could provide further cuttings for the wine-growing colonists. Busby’s collection was planted at the Sydney Botanic Gardens and at Busby’s sister Catherine Kelman’s property in the Hunter Valley (known as ‘Kirkton’). Julie highlights that before Busby returned to England in 1830, he had distributed up to 20,000 vine cuttings across the colony - including to George Wyndham in the Hunter Valley.
In the Hunter, the relationship between wine growing and the land has been unbroken since 1830. cure tempestuous drinking across the colony. Wine, as opposed to beer or spirits, offered a lighter alcohol alternative for colonial labourers, and was also often cheaper. Yet, consumption patterns from the time reveal a distinct preference for beer or spirits. Rich colonists held the view that their vineyards and wine would have a civilising influence over the population an ambitious notion, since beer and spirits dominated, and rum had even been used as currency. “It wasn’t drinkers driving the need for a wine industry - it was producers,” confirms Julie. An important part of achieving this vision was the supply of cuttings. One key player in this was James Busby.
By 1832, George Wyndham had a well-established vineyard, maintained by convict labour. Some of Wyndham’s earliest plantings were Hunter River Riesling, or - as we know it today - Semillon. But this was a time of experimentation, with limited understanding of the science of wine, and a lack of modern machinery or reliable equipment. Julie McIntyre believes the biggest change in the industry since then has been the huge increase in knowledge about wine production.
PICTURED ABOVE A reminder that wine making was already scientific in the 1890s. Michele Blunno, viticultural expert, NSW Department of Agriculture, the laboratory, Viticulture Experts Office, Sydney. Professor Blunno advised Hunter on vines and wine. Source: State Library of NSW, Government Printing Office 1 – 32671 PICTURED OPPOSITE Julie McIntyre
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WINE HERITAGE “How amazing to think that these people were making the Hunter Valley’s first wines; trying to create something completely new, from scratch. I imagine they had a sense of humour about their first attempts at winemaking. George Wyndham certainly did.”
It wasn’t drinkers driving the need for a wine industry - it was producers.
PICTURED ABOVE Wilkinsons’ first cellar and wine press at ‘Oakdale’ by Florence Wilkinson. A note on the back says the structure was built between 1866 and 1868 and removed in 1908. Source: State Library of NSW, Call no. ML 291 PICTURED RIGHT From an album of photographs of the Dalwood Vineyards near Branxton, 1886. Source: State Library of NSW, Call no. PXD 740
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First Vintage depicts George Wyndham using blankets to keep ferments warm and removing them to cool. There would have been many trials in fermentation and frustrations with untried grape varieties. Early wine styles imitated those from the old world, borrowing from French and European styles such as Claret, Burgundy, Madeira and Tokaji. “In the Hunter, the relationship between wine growing and the land has been unbroken since 1830.” In the 1820s through to the 1860s, plantings extended to Pokolbin the area we now know as the central point of the Hunter Valley region. Some of the more recognisable names in early Hunter Valley winemaking include Joseph Drayton, who first planted vines in the late 1850s; Edward Tyrrell, whose first vintage was in 1864; Frederick Wilkinson, who planted vines in 1866; and John Younie Tulloch, who joined the wine industry in 1895. In 1847, the Hunter River Vineyard Association was inaugurated. Julie also shares some of the forgotten characters who assisted in pioneering the Hunter Valley wine industry. For instance, Maria Windeyer from Tomago won a certificate for her wine at the 1855 Paris Exhibition, where James King’s Irrawang (near Raymond Terrace) wine was also judged. “James King really was an outrageously competitive figure,” remarks Julie. “One of my favourite stories about him is almost impossible to believe, that he had intended to send his Irrawang wine to the 1851 London Exhibition. This was the huge, posh event in the purposebuilt Crystal Palace, where the wonders of the British Empire were being lavishly showcased for the first time. King was furious that his wine somehow missed the Great Exhibition, and he sold the wine he had planned to send to London. Having a change of heart, he bought it back from the buyer and sent it directly to Queen Victoria’s husband. No mucking about - straight to the top!”
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This incredible anecdote paid off for King as, some time later, a royal response arrived in New South Wales, declaring James King’s wines to be excellent. Other early Hunter Valley winemakers were also recognised for the quality of their wines. In 1867, a wine from George Wyndham’s Dalwood property was awarded a Silver medal at the Paris International Exhibition - the highest accolade given to any Australian entrants. Dalwood continued to prove its credentials by becoming one of the most awarded Australian wineries between the 1860s and 1880s. Dalwood was later renamed Wyndham Estate, and its integrity endures today. It is to these early successes and efforts of our pioneering winemaking families that the Hunter Valley owes its title of Australia’s oldest surviving wine region. When Maurice O’Shea established operations in the Hunter Valley in the 1920s, he inherited a gift from his colonial predecessors: a range of grape varieties suitable for the region, with varying degrees of success. “I was very surprised when I began my doctoral research,” says Julie. “It is alarming just how much original material there is to read on early Australian wine history, including the Hunter - so much yet to explore.” Julie McIntyre’s book is a refreshing and entertaining window into the remarkable history of wine in Australia. “I’m thrilled to be collaborating with the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association and Newcastle Museum on a proposal to spend several years specifically researching Hunter wine history. We hope the project can go ahead, so that we can unearth yet more untold stories.” For more from Rhiannon Stevens head to www.iwineo.id.au
MEET THE LOCALS WORDS BY GRANT RADFORD
Helen HARRIS
What is your most memorable bottle ever tasted? Premium robust oil, and of course, caramelised balsamic vinegar.
Helen Harris has been working with Pukara Estate for five years. While she has a professional training in early childhood, she says it was her love of gourmet food coupled with her social nature which drew her to Pukara Estate.
What are you drinking at home? The Hunter Valley Semillons and Chardonnays I love in the summer have given way to richer Hunter Valley Shiraz as the evenings have cooled.
SALES & DELIVERIES, Pukara estate
“It doesn’t matter if I’m on the road selling and delivering products, or serving in one of our Pukara Estate tasting rooms; I just love meeting and our greeting customers,” she says. A country girl at heart, Helen lives in Denman with her husband, Harry, and her two beautiful teenage daughters, Emily and Meg. What is the best part of your job? Meeting a variety of different and interesting people, being part of such a great team throughout the day, and selling a great quality local product. What is the worst part of your job? Honestly, I can’t think of one! A typical day includes… Travelling from the beautiful Upper Hunter, where our grove is situated between Muswellbrook and Denman, to Pokolbin in the Lower Hunter. Our Pukara tasting room is located in the Ballabourneen Cellar Door, which is a wonderful place to start the day. It’s then time to set up our huge range of olive oils, vinegars and other specialty food products in time to meet the customers.
How do you relax after a hard day? That’s easy… by sliding into a relaxing bubble bath. What was your most embarrassing moment? Now, where do I start?! The best visitor is one who… Is interested and wanting to learn more about our products and one I can share a laugh with. What is your favourite food and wine match? Pork belly and Hunter Valley Chardonnay. Your fantasy dinner party guests would be… Just Karl Stefonovic. No one else - just Karl! What would your last meal and drinks be? Crumbed cutlets with creamy mash, lovely fresh peas, and a glass of ten-year-old Hunter Valley red. It’s not cool, but I love… Watching cartoons. If you weren’t you, who would you like to be? Why would I want to be anyone else?! What is your favourite holiday destination (outside the Hunter Valley, of course)? Anywhere with my husband and beautiful daughters, and away from my mobile phone.
Denman—(02) 65471055 1440 Denman Rd, Muswellbrook Pokolbin—0408 144 149 2347 Broke Rd, Cessnock
MEET THE LOCALS Stuart Hamilton
DIRECT MARKETING & SALES MANAGER, BRIAR RIDGE Stuart has been working at Briar Ridge for over a year and, four months ago, took on his current role of Direct Marketing & Sales Manager. He originally started in hospitality, managing restaurants and bars in Newcastle, eventually being drawn to Pokolbin in pursuit of a new-found love - wine!. What is the best part of your job? Definitely, meeting new people, and of course, the wine. I love building new relationships with clients and moving our brand into the future.
What was your most embarrassing moment? I was at a wine bar in Spain with my girlfriend, her parents and some friends, when some old Spanish guys tried to pick me up. Everyone else was totally amused. The best customer/visitor is one who… Has such a great experience they tell all their friends. What is your favourite food and wine match? Duck with Pinot! Your fantasy dinner guests would be… Elton or Billy on the keyboard, Gordon Ramsay in the kitchen and table full of Victoria’s Secret models… and my better half, Holly, of course.
What is the worst part of your job? I really don’t think there’s a bad part of my job, so no complaints. A typical day includes… A strong coffee from our Grillade Café, then office work, and a catch-up with staff, wine tastings and new vintages reports. During vintage, our Vineyard Manager, Belinda, even had me driving tractors. What is your most memorable bottle ever tasted? A mate who recently visited from England had cleaned out an old house and found a very special bottle of 1986 Vouvray. To our surprise, it was amazing. It was the first bottle of the night, and very hard to follow. What are you drinking at home? Lots of Briar Ridge, Tallavera Grove and Pepper Tree wines. I’ve also got local friends who help ensure variety - so Mount Pleasant, Moorebank, and some Bimbadgen. How do you relax after a hard day? Usually with a beer, and a garden hose in hand, watering my lawn - love my grass! I’m also a musician, so I crank out a few tunes on the piano.
What would your last meal and drinks be? Duck with Pinot! It’s not cool, but I love… Getting into my striped PJ pants and ugg boots after work, and listening to jazz or blues tunes. If you weren’t you, who would you like to be? An RAAF Roulettes pilot. I was a pilot in a past life, and did lots of aerobatics and skydive drops. What is your favourite product on offer at the moment? Evergreen Lawn Fertilizer - love my grass. If I go missing at home, Holly knows where I am. What is your favourite holiday destination (outside the Hunter Valley, of course)? Sayalonga or Barcelona - Spain! I went there two years ago. Sayalonga is in the south up in the hills. You get there by driving along goat tracks, basically along the cliff’s edge. And Barcelona is relaxed, exciting and full of sensual wonders!
Your invitation to dine at Restaurant Botanica ...
The Hunter Valley’s freshest regional dining experience Dinner reservations Wed to Sun Evenings from 6pm • Private Degustation Lunches available by request Wed to Sun A passionate hospitality team led by owner/operators Mark and Belinda Stapleton Multi award winning wine list • Stunning rural vineyard and mountain views • Relaxed and comfortable dining ambience Abundant kitchen garden with rare and organic heirloom vegetables, fruits and herbs picked daily for our menu
p. 02
6574 7229 a. Located at Spicers Vineyards Estate 555 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin 2320
MEET THE LOCALS Michael Paterson
CELLAR DOOR MANAGER, BIMBADGEN Raised and educated in the Hunter Valley, Michael initially followed his father’s footsteps into the radio industry before his passion for wine brought him back to the local wine industry. After a three-year hiatus from Bimbadgen, Michael has recently returned as Cellar Door Manager, bringing with him over 15 years’ industry experience. What is the best part of your job? Seeing the Bimbadgen amphitheatre packed to capacity, with happy concertgoers enjoying the vibe at ‘A Day on the Green’ with some great wine and food. What is the worst part of your job? Cleaning up after the above they’re the biggest and busiest days of our year. A typical day includes… I’m lucky with my job - no two days are the same. However, most days usually involve meetings, phone calls, emails and catching up with a diverse range of people at our Cellar Door and around the Valley.
What is your most memorable bottle ever tasted? A 1971 Chateau Cheval Blanc. What are you drinking at home? Aged Hunter Valley Semillon, good Burgundy, and cleansing ales. How do you relax after a hard day? I love catching up with like-minded friends, and sharing good food and wine with them. The best visitor is one who… Is open-minded and is really interested in wine. What is your favourite food and wine match? I love Riesling and spicy Asian food. Your fantasy dinner party guests would be… Neil Young, Keith Richards and Billy Connolly. What would your last meal and drinks be? It would absolutely have to be an aged red wine with vindaloo lamb shoulder. It’s not cool, but I love… Chevy Chase - Spies Like Us is a classic. What is your favourite product on offer at the moment? Our Bimbadgen 2011 Hunter Valley Shiraz. What is your favourite holiday destination (outside the Hunter Valley, of course)? Anywhere with a good campfire, friends, family, and great food and wine, of course.
R E S T A U R A N T
Rustic Mediterranean inspired cuisine in a relaxed, friendly environment. Hunter Valley Gardens Village, Broke Road, Pokolbin P 02 4998 7584 W www.the-cellar-restaurant.com.au • Open lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday
FROM THE CELLAR WORDS BY LUKE CAMPBELL & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
As with winemaking, the cellaring, storage and serving of wine is based on a combination of science and art. Here, Luke Campbell of Vinified answers all your wine storage and service questions.
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ith extensive experience in the wine industry and a great passion for wine, Luke is a qualified sommelier, a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) diploma student, and has completed numerous vintages in Australia. I love wine and I know what I like, but how do I partner it with food at dinner parties? R.Beams, Taree, NSW Luke Campbell: When it comes to food and wine matching, the practice or ‘art’ as some would call it, of matching food and wine is surprisingly divisive. In our multicultural society with its myriad influences and such a diverse culinary landscape, the old rules of ‘white wines with fish’ and ‘red wines with red meats’ have all but disappeared.
There is voluminous literature written, convincing you that food and wine matching is the gastronomic grail: a complex but rewarding subject, worthy only of celebrity chefs and wine snobs. I disagree!
Wine is for friends and family, and is meant to be shared. It is my belief that if you understand a few simple things, food and wine matching is very easy. The old rules were set down hundreds of years ago, and our palates, diets and lifestyles have changed significantly, so now we must adapt. Food and wine matching is subjective and extremely personal. As long as you consider the proteins in meals and the alcohol content in the wine, you will be on your way to that gastronomic grail. The more fat in your dish, the more alcohol you will need for breaking down the fat (that is, the good proteins and fats found in eggs, milk, meat, poultry and fish). After working as a Sommelier in some of the world’s top restaurants, here and abroad, I can let you in on some secrets. Firstly, note that chilli, artichokes, vinegars and asparagus are all mortal enemies of wine, and consequently hard to pair with any dish. Spiced food needs low-alcohol
wines or fruitier styles to combat the heat in the chilli. The richer the dish you’re serving, the heavier in alcohol your wine should be. For example, fresh Port Stephens oysters (low in fat) paired with a bottle of the finest Hunter Valley Semillon (low in alcohol) is a winner - try it! Another great tip is pairing fish with low tannin wines: Gamay, Semillon, Red Burgundy, Arneis (Italian white), or even Tempranillo. Some of the better matches I have seen work are: meaty curries with sparkling Shiraz, grilled salmon with Pinot Noir, Vietnamese pork rolls (banh mi thit) with Vouvray (Chenin Blanc from the Loire, France). Another great match is vanilla pannacotta with a cream Sherry (from Spain). Most importantly, wine should be respected, and so should food. Understand not all can be matched. The realm of delicious matches is only limited by your imagination. Enjoy Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month. Bon appétit! Send your cellaring questions to luke@vinified.com.au
Vinified provides individual and commercial wine enthusiasts a personal cellar management service that includes advice on appraisal, valuation, cellaring, liquidation and optimum drinking conditions. www.vinified.com.au p 03 9867 1375
Australia’s most exclusive cellar management service
WINE REVIEWS
Brokenwood ‘8 Rows’ Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir
RRP $25
Now available at Cellar Door ‘8 Rows’ is named in honour of Vineyard Manager, Keith Barry - KB to all. For more than 20 years now, KB has had to cajole the often recalcitrant weekend picking volunteers. “Is it smoko/beer/lunchtime yet?” was usually met with “Just another 8 rows and we’re done!” Pale straw with youthful hues, crystal clear with a fine persistent bead. Bouquet shows lifted citrus and strawberry fruit characters. Food Match - Freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters. P 02 4998 7559 E sales@brokenwood.com.au
2011 Hungerford Hill ‘Classic’ Pinot Gris
RRP $25
Straw yellow in colour with pear, honeysuckle and hints of forest floor in the aroma. The palate has a glutinous like mouth feel layered with seamless and concentrated flavours of white pear and citrus fruits. Food Match - beautifully matched with the crispy skin Berkshire pork belly from Muse Café. P 02 4998 7666 E wines@hungerfordhill.com.au Cellar Door Open Sunday to Thursday 10am - 5pm Friday & Saturday 10am - 6pm 2450 Broke Road POKOLBIN hungerfordhill.com.au
Cellar Door Open Monday to Saturday 9.30am - 5pm Sunday 10am - 5pm 401-427 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN brokenwood.com.au BREATHE autumn 2013
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WINE REVIEWS
2011 RidgeView Pinot Gris
RRP $20
The brilliant lemon, green hue gives rise to delicate ripe pear, white peach and citrus aromas. The full palate is dominated by sweet pear and fresh lemon with a long, luscious finish balanced by delicate grapefruit acidity. A true Hunter Valley Pinot Gris ready for immediate enjoyment. Food Match - Ideal accompaniment to fresh seafood, salads, antipasta or Asian cuisine. P 02 6574 7332 E drink@ridgeview.com.au Cellar Door Open Wednesday - Sunday 10am - 5pm 273 Sweetwater Road POKOLBIN ridgeview.com.au
2012 Bimbadgen Estate Chardonnay
A blend of fruit from Bimbadgen’s vineyards on McDonalds Road, and Palmers Lane, Pokolbin. Aromas of grapefruit and citrus blossom with hints of white peach lead to a palate filled with white fleshed stone fruit flavours, grapefruit freshness and nashi pear. Layers of gentle oak tannins provide structure and backbone, drawing the flavours along the palate. Food Match - A lighter style chicken dish such as smoked chicken salad. P 02 4998 4650 E cellardoor@bimbadgen.com.au Cellar Door Open Sunday to Thursday 10am - 5pm Friday and Saturday 10am - 7pm 790 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN bimbadgen.com.au
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RRP $24
WINE REVIEWS
2012 Margan Chardonnay
RRP $18
Gold green in colour this wine exhibits a complex bouquet of grapefruit and melon with hints of wellintegrated subtle nutty oak aromas. The palate is textured offering an attractive mouth feel with great structure and richness. It is beautifully balanced with a long, lingering finish. Enjoy young and over the next three to five years with careful cellaring. Food Match - Seared scallop, garden sweet corn cream, piquillo pepper, saffron oil and baby herbs from Margan Restaurant.
2011 Oakvale Wines Sangiovese
RRP $25
Rich garnet in colour, this medium bodied red combines generous plum and fig characteristics with well-balanced tight tannins and a pleasing flintiness. Food Match - all things Italian. P 02 4998 7088 E info@oakvalewines.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm (closed Christmas Day) 1596 Broke Road POKOLBIN oakvalewines.com.au
P 02 6579 1372 E cellardoor@margan.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm 1238 Milbrodale Road BROKE margan.com.au
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WINE REVIEWS
2011 First Creek Premium Shiraz
RRP $25
2011 was a cooler year in the Hunter Valley, with a dry finish to the growing season allowing an excellent crop of clean ripe fruit at harvest. This resulted in wines with great purity and concentration of fruit along with the structure to age gracefully. This wine displays pure, dark berry and cherry fruit, backed by pepper, anise and savoury, spicy oak characters. A classically medium bodied palate combines concentration of fruit with elegance. Sweet mulberry and blackberry fruits, spice and fine tannins provide a long finish. Food Match - herb crusted lamb rack. P 02 4998 7293 E sales@firstcreekwines.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 9:30am - 5pm Free winery tours every day 10:30am 600 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN firstcreekwines.com.au 32
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2009 Tulloch Hector Limited Release Shiraz
RRP $60
Our flagship Shiraz commemorates Hector John Tulloch who brought the Tulloch label to prominence in the 1950s. Since 1986 we have produced 15 vintages of this wine reflecting our standard of only releasing it in exceptional years. This wine is the epitome of classic Hunter Valley Shiraz and will cellar for 20+ years. Food Match - Aged rib eye with a red wine jus. P 02 4998 7580 E cellardoor@tullochwines.com Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm Corner McDonalds & DeBeyers Road POKOLBIN tullochwines.com
2010 McGuigan Personal Reserve Shiraz
RRP $60 Vintage Members $48
A classic Hunter Valley Shiraz, sourced from our premier vineyard hosting wonderful old vines that nurture intensely flavoured Shiraz grapes. This is a full-bodied wine with soft fine-grained tannins which are rich and display great length. Luscious dark fruit flavours are complimented by a subtle underlay of tightly grained oak. Award-winning style worthy of cellaring. Food Match - an ideal match with rich red meats and classic hearty dishes. P 02 4998 4111 E hunter@mcguigan.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 9:30am - 5pm
2009 Tintilla Estate James Merlot Cabernet
RRP $28
An outstanding classic 60/40 blend reflecting the Hunter Valley terroir. This wine is deliciously buoyant with lively blackberry, ripe plumb and cassis, supported by a subtle French oak influence. Very approachable, medium bodied, smooth textured wine with intriguing complexity, good acid backbone and lingering flavour. Will age well. Food Match - Roast venison, strong game and lamb. P 02 6574 7093 E info@tintilla.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 10.30am - 6pm 725 Hermitage Road POKOLBIN tintilla.com.au
447 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN mcguiganwines.com.au
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M U S E
R E S T A U R A N T
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C A F É
One Chefs Hat Sydney Morning Herald 2011, 2012, 2013 Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year Hunter Region Restaurant and Catering Industry Awards NSW 2010, 2012 Best Contemporary Australian Restaurant Hunter Region Restaurant and Catering Industry Awards NSW 2010, 2011, 2012
Restaurant Dinner Wednesday to Saturday Café Lunch 7 Days Hungerford Hill, Broke Road, Pokolbin T 02 4998 6777 E muse@musedining.com.au www.musedining.com.au
at tOWER EstatE Take the time to wine and dine at Roberts – the Hunter Valley’s most celebrated restaurant. Executive Chef George Francisco takes diners on a culinary journey of contemporary Australian cuisine with an emphasis on exceptional produce and second to none service. Complement your meal with a premium selection of Australian and imported wines from our cellar – one of the best in the Hunter Valley. Indulge your senses with world class food and wine in the exquisite grounds of Tower Estate. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner For bookings and enquiries call (02) 4998 4998 | Halls Rd Pokolbin roberts@towerestate.com www.towerestate.com roberts@towerestate.com | | www.towerestate .com
Esca Bimbadgen restaurant is excited to announce the arrival of Executive Chef Mark Bennett and his new autumn menu. Mark has a great love of seasonal and fresh produce and is excited to have a wide variety from the Esca kitchen gardens to highlight on his menus. Esca Bimbadgen restaurant is open seven days for lunch from 12pm, and dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 6pm. 790 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 4666 E esca@bimbadgen.com.au W bimbadgen.com.au/esca
Every Saturday at 11:30am Whispering Brook offers a fabulous tutored tour of their picturesque estate vineyards, olive grove and winery followed by a tasting at their cellar door. Afterwards relax with a glass of wine and take in the sweeping mountain views from the verandah. A casual luncheon of shared gourmet antipasto, cheese platters or gourmet pizza overlooking the estate’s vineyards and olive groves completes a delightful experience. Rodd Street, Broke. P 02 6579 1386 or 02 9818 4126 W whispering-brook.com
EXTRA, EXTRA!
Read all about it ... what’s new in the Hunter Valley
Indulge at one of Australia’s top rated Hotels for Romance and Service. Spicers Vineyards Estate was recently voted No. 2 in Australia for service and No. 7 for romance by millions of Tripadvisor travellers. To celebrate they are launching a new level of luxury with four brandnew luxury spa suites, a dedicated day spa facility and a Romantic Interlude Package to match! Including a complimentary arrival mini bar, romantic dinner in Restaurant Botanica, a one hour couple’s tandem massage treatment, French Champagne, a romantic evening turndown service and complimentary late checkout of 12 noon, your experience in one of the new suites is sure to impress your partner. From $745 per couple per night. 555 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin. P 02 6574 7229 W spicersgroup.com.au
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FOOD
A Melting Pot 36
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of talent WORDS BY MELINDA KELLY & IMAGES BY Chris Elfes
PICTURED STANDING LEFT TO RIGHT Troy RhoadesBrown, Adam Ireland, George Francisco PICTURED SEATED LEFT TO RIGHT Andy Wright, Mark Bennett, Lisa Margan, Donna Hollis, Emerson Rodriguez
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FOOD
A
A bundle of energy, Lisa Margan of Margan Restaurant dropped in on her way to interviews for her newest chef.
sking chefs to attend a photo shoot at 9:30am on a Monday is a pretty tough ask. It’s like making all of us Monday-to-Friday folk head back to work at 5:00am on a Saturday morning.
A couple of days earlier, the restaurant that she owns and operates with her winemaker husband, Andrew Margan, won a major award - the Tourism Restaurant & Catering Services category of the 2012 Qantas Australian Tourism Awards - so Lisa was understandably excited.
They’d all had a busy week and an even busier weekend with full restaurants, weddings, and catering functions - however, some of the Hunter Valley’s leading chefs answered the call.
“This award is a huge honour. It acknowledges our commitment to quality, our passion for wine and food, and providing a unique experience for our guests,” Lisa said. “Andrew and I have an amazing team of staff at Margan, who strive for excellence and share our vision.”
Waiting for the photo backdrop to be set, it became obvious that while all of the chefs in the Hunter Valley are, in essence, competitors for business, they have a common bond and relaxed friendships. Troy Rhoades-Brown was the first to arrive, and brought along his infectious smile, bright enough to light the entire room. Just a week earlier, he and his wife, Megan, welcomed their first-born child into the world and, despite their first sleepless night after coming home from the hospital, he was on top of the world.
“We’re also proud to win this for the region, as it adds to the Hunter Valley’s already great reputation as a quality food and wine tourism destination,” she said. “The only downside was we couldn’t make it to the award ceremony in Hobart, because we were in the middle of our grape harvest.”
Making every new menu better than the last is paramount.
Troy and Megan are the owners and operators of two successful hatted restaurants - Muse Restaurant & Café, and Muse Kitchen. Just 12 months after it opened in 2009, Muse Restaurant & Café was awarded its first Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Chef’s Hat. Muse Kitchen, a French-style lunch venue, picked up its first Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Chef’s Hat last year, again, only one year after opening. PICTURED ABOVE Preparation is paramount to a perfect dish PICTURED OPPOSITE Finishing touches - The 2012 Hunter Chefs & Co Food Fight
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At 28, Troy remains grounded and humbled by his achievements. “If you are committed to running a restaurant well, the hours and the responsibility can be testing. It comes with the territory, so you just get on and do the very best job you possibly can,” Troy says. “Making every new menu better than the last is paramount.” BREATHE autumn 2013
Emerson Rodriguez, Executive Chef and owner of Emerson’s at Pokolbin, is full of apologies when he arrives just five minutes late. His eldest son, who had started Year 7 at high school earlier in the week, had missed the bus to school. “You know that’s the hardest thing about being a chef and owner of your own restaurant - you just don’t get to spend enough time with your kids,” Emerson said. “Although it’s a bit of a juggling act, I love my job, and my wife, Samantha, and my children inspire me every day.” Emerson says his heritage is another source of inspiration. “Growing up in the Philippines, food is a very big part of everyday life. My grandmother owned a poultry stall at a local market, and I used to help her out every weekend,” he said. As the conversation turns to Asia, Adam Ireland is all ears - he is days away from going to Thailand for a brief holiday. It’s the first real break he’s had since opening Twine Restaurant with his mate and Hunter Valley chef, Matt Dillow, over a year ago. “Matt has managed to escape from his other restaurant, The Verandah, and has taken his wife and kids on a short break. When he gets back, it’s my turn,” Adam said. Although she finished work late the night before, Donna Hollis, executive chef at RidgeView Restaurant, was also in a jovial mood. “I love being a chef and being able to create something new and exciting every day. The garden at RidgeView inspires my seasonal menus - you can’t beat home-grown organic fruit and vegetables,” she said. She’d been up early that morning, picking fruit and vegetables to take camping with her.
It’s a bit like being a conductor, but also sometimes a father, a magistrate, a coach or a captain.
“Later today, my partner and I are heading off with our four-wheel drive and our two dogs for a couple of days. Every now and then, you just have to take the opportunity to recharge your batteries,” Donna said. With the mention of cars, Andy Wright, executive chef and owner of The Cellar Restaurant and The Olive Tree Restaurant, whips out his iPhone to show off pictures of his recently renovated vintage Jaguar. Andy says renovating the car, which was originally his father’s and imported from England, was a labour of love he squeezed into his hectic schedule. He and his wife, Janet, have dedicated the last 10 years to The Cellar Restaurant, which has just celebrated its 35th anniversary. “After all this time cooking, I still love food and I still get inspired by fantastic ingredients,” Andy said. And, with 32 years in the industry, Andy is a great mentor to many of the Hunter Valley’s up-and-coming chefs. “The Hunter Valley’s food scene is in a really good place. It’s really vibrant, and there are a lot of young chefs coming through with great ideas,” Andy said. During his 40 years in the Hunter Valley, Robert Molines, who is the undoubtedly the region’s most iconic chef, has also been responsible for challenging, educating and inspiring dozens of young chefs. Robert and his wife, Sally, own and operate Bistro Molines, which is located at Tallavera Grove and boasts a Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide one-hat status. As the executive chef and the person ultimately in charge of the kitchen, Robert describes his role: “It’s a bit like being a conductor, but also sometimes a father, a magistrate, a coach or a captain,” he says. “In essence, you lead with authority, but not aggression, and facilitate an environment where all the crew are able to share their ideas, suggestions and creations, and maintain the same goals.” George Francisco, of Tower Estate’s Roberts and Nine, has been a chef for 31 years, and agrees with Robert. “When I was younger, I tried to ‘control freak’ everything. Every dish was mine, and I showed everyone how I wanted everything done every day,” he said. “Nowadays, I relax a bit and give my chefs some room to run. I think the food I am serving now is much better because of the team. We are collectively better than I am alone.” A relative newcomer to the Hunter Valley and originally from the US, George says the quality of Australia’s produce inspired him to immigrate here in 2001. “I had visited Australia on many occasions and was so impressed with the food scene. Somehow, the food tastes fresher, and anything I cook here tastes better than anything I cooked in the United States,” he said. Mark Bennett of Esca Bimbagen is one of the Hunter Valley’s newest recruits, and has quickly earned his stripes taking over at the restaurant earlier this year just in time for the A Day On The Green summer concert season. With the concerts now over, Mark says he is looking forward to concentrating on his new autumn menu, working with the Esca team and chasing a coveted Sydney Morning Herald Guide Chef’s Hat.
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Muse Kitchen boasts a more personal approach to food, wine and service delivering European inspired food that is season and produce driven. Muse Kitchen, located at the new Keith Tulloch Winery on Hermitage Road Pokolbin, is the newest venture for huband and wife team Troy and Megan Rhoades-Brown of Muse Restaurant and CafĂŠ. Lunch: Wed - Sun: 12noon - 3pm Available for private functions by request. Keith Tulloch Wines Lot 17 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin T: 02 4998 7899 E: muse@musedining.com.au muse@musedining.com.au
www.musedining.com.au www.musedining.com.au
www.emersonsatpokolbin.com
mail@emersonsatpokolbin.com
A true ‘local’ cheese tasting experience. We are providores of our own products as well as other local and imported cheeses, gourmet foods and home to the Hunter Valley Gelato Company. Purchase our products either to take home or sit and indulge in store with a glass of local wine or beer. Smelly’s Kitchen delivers fresh French-style bread, gourmet pizzas, stuffed baguettes, burgers and chips. VIP cheese tastings available $3 per person.
Purchases over $50 receive a 10% discount. All VIP tastings must be pre-booked.
STOP! No need to look any further. We stock all your local favourite cheeses as well - Smelly’s own, Binnorie Dairy, Hunter Belle plus other favourites from around the country and the globe. • A gourmand’s delight - you have to see it to believe it! Come on in, have a big snoop around. • Enjoy Merlo coffee with hand made Adora chocolate. • Hampers, Wedding Fromage Cakes and Gelato Cakes also can be ordered. Give us a call. • Conveniently open 7 days (closed Christmas Day).
A unique combination of rustic Mediterranean cuisine served on beautiful antique crockery in a stylish country setting. Views from every table of manicured vines, picturesque countryside and the winding Hunter River. Saturday lunch 12-3pm Sunday breakfast & lunch 10am-3pm Wyndham Estate Dalwood Rd, Dalwood via Branxton www.olivetreerestaurant.com.au
Ph 02 4938 1831
Restaurant
Cuvée PETERSON HOUSE
ltd
Open 7 days Breakfast 8.30am - 11.00am Lunch 12.00pm - 3.00pm Corner of Broke Road & Wine Country Drive Pokolbin NSW 2320 P 02 4998 7881 E cuvee@petersonhouse.com.au W www.petersonhouse.com.au Restaurant Cuvée is also the perfect venue for weddings, private dinners and corporate functions. For more information, please contact Naomi Pridue E naomi@petersonhouse.com.au
lifestyle art
Of Time and Peace
The quilts of Pamela Fitzsimons WORDS BY Virginia Mitchell & IMAGES courtesy of pamela fitzSimons
I
n 2009, a chance meeting at the Cessnock Regional Art Gallery introduced me to the work of one of Australia’s leading quilt makers, Pamela Fitzsimons.
All this is overlooked by towering sandstone cliffs that rise hundreds of feet above the creek bed. It is also one of the most biologically diverse areas in the Hunter Valley.
It came a surprise to discover that this quietly spoken artist, living contentedly in the shadow of the Watagans in the Lower Hunter, had exhibited her hand-dyed, hand-stitched quilts across Australia and throughout the world. Traditionally, most of us think of quilts and country living as going hand-in-hand with home-baked bread, milking cows and big vegetable gardens. Pamela and her quilts are certainly grounded in the country, particularly in the landscape around her home in Bow Wow Creek Gorge, but there the similarities end.
Pamela is as much a landscape artist as a quilter - the process of quilting being an intrinsic part of that. Her works, such as Skin Earth and Fault Line, richly convey the texture of sandstone, the bark of trees or leaf litter underfoot, and are also reminiscent of another landscape artist, Angus Nivison, who records the rural landscape of the Upper Hunter in huge abstract paintings. Neither artist shows us the traditional view of trees, grass and sky. Instead, they choose to focus their careful attention on the details of a surface.
Pamela has discarded the neat quilters’ templates of regular hexagons and squares cut from coordinated colours and florals, retaining only the essential elements of piecing, padding and hand-stitching to create unique works of art.
Exploring colour and texture, they can bring us a fresh view of everyday, often overlooked, objects and surroundings, to create an abstract landscape that is both minimalist yet recognisable and dense with meaning.
Like many country people, Pamela is also an avid environmentalist. This passion drove her to fight for the preservation of the unique and ancient landscape of the Bow Wow Gorge for future generations. She also quietly records, preserves and shares this landscape through her art’s practice. The Bow Wow is now a protected, listed heritage site, rich in Permian marine fossils and stalactite caves, remnant ancient rainforest and undisturbed Aboriginal relics and ceremonial sites. 42
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The silks and wools Pamela uses are coloured with dyes made from plants she collects on her property. They are then cut, torn, frayed, layered and painstakingly stitched to create rich surface textures. At a distance, they clearly evoke landscape; up close, they are essays in love and patience. Each fleck of colour, each delicately teased-out fray, each careful stitch perfectly aligned to the next, reveal the hundreds of hours Pamela has spent with each object, sewing her love of place into each quilt.
Cloth is a metaphor for the fragility of the land, hand-stitched to imprint the passing of time.
Family and friends come and go. The seasons change. The landscape remains and is celebrated here in these works. Pamela says, “Living in a landscape strewn with fossils from the Permian period has given me an awareness of the concept of time: watching seasons change, the migratory birds come and go; recording the passing of time. The medium of textiles - fragile, sensuous, tactile - is what I have chosen to interpret these ideas. Cloth is a metaphor for the fragility of the land, hand-stitched to imprint the passing of time.”
PICTURED ABOVE LEFT ‘Fault Line’ PICTURED ABOVE RIGHT ’Rock Fissures’. PICTURED opposite ‘Walking Werakata 3’.
Pamela is also passionate about the animals and birds that inhabit her slice of paradise in the Bow Wow. The Lost Birds series of quilts has explored the disappearing numbers of birds and bird species from the Australian landscape. Some of this has been caused by clearing of habitat and destruction of food sources - for instance, the Glossy Black Cockatoo, that was once prolific in the Watagan Mountains, is dependent on seeds from the
fast-disappearing Casuarina Tree for food. Its demise may not be imminent, but may well be inevitable. Pamela has recently discovered undisturbed Aboriginal sites on her property, which have whetted her interest in local indigenous culture and history. She is keen to preserve the integrity of these sites for future research, but they will certainly be an influence on her work, which is so connected to this place she inhabits and loves so much. Sarah Tucker, who organised an exhibition of Pamela’s quilts at Manly Museum and Art Gallery, says of her quilts that, “The finished work acts as evidence of the processes which produced it: the living in, and caring for, a particular place; the gathering of plant material; the setting-up of the dye pot; then the cutting and piecing of the silk or wool to make the quilt. The hours spent stitching. Family and friends come and go. The seasons change. The landscape remains and is celebrated here in these works.” Pamela has exhibited widely, including recent exhibitions Time and Place at Manly Museum and Art Gallery (2006), Our Place at Cessnock Regional Art Gallery (2010), QUILT at Stanthorpe Regional Art Gallery (2011), and at international events including the 17th Biennial exhibition, Quilt National, at the San José Museum of Quilts and Textiles in the United States in 2012.
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S AV E T H E D A T E
‘Al Fresco’ Long Lunch Saturday, 11 May 2013 12 noon - 4.00pm Oakvale Winery 1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin With a theme of ‘abundance’, this seven course degustation showcases local produce prepared by MUSE, one of the Hunters’ finest restaurants, perfectly matched with Oakvale’s handcrafted wines as selected by our Winemaker. $125 per person inclusive. Save the date now and enjoy a relaxing afternoon of fine food and live entertainment in the beautiful Oakvale grounds.
Celebrate the return of a Hunter Valley Institution In 1984 Chez Pok captured the essence of the Hunter and earned a special place in the hearts of the Pokolbin people. With its rustic welcome and love of the region, it made for a great meeting place. Today we invite all food and wine lovers to rediscover the passion, as we have done, for the heart of the Hunter. Celebrate its great people and produce at Chez Pok with a revamped wine list and delicious new menu. Enjoy the views from a nicely matured Hunter icon. Its homely feel and French inspired heritage provides the perfect setting for an exquisite meal at any time of the day. Marvel at the scenery and relax. You’re with friends. Breakfast and dinner daily and lunch Friday –Sunday
With our compliments Enjoy 2 courses at Chez Pok before 31/05/13, mention Breathe and with our compliments you’ll receive a glass of Hunter Valley wine.
For more information or to make a booking call 02 4998 7008 or email chris@oakvalewines.com.au chris@oakvalewines.com.au www.oakvalewines.com.au www.oakvalewines.com.au
O A K VA L E
Rediscover the Hunter with Chez Pok. Call (02) 4993 8999, visit us at Ekerts Rd, Pokolbin or at chezpok.com.au
WHAT’S ON APRIL MOVIES IN THE VINEYARD March 28 to April 6, 2013 Spread your picnic blanket out on the lawns at Hungerford Hill and settle in for a night of great wine, food and new release movies under the stars. Food and beverages available. No BYO alcohol. Broke Road, Pokolbin. W moviesinthevineyard.com.au
THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday April 7, 2013 It’s Mediterranean Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO & no corkage. Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
KEITH TULLOCH VINTAGE APPRAISAL & LUNCH Sunday April 20, 2013 The fruit is in the winery and now it’s time to finish the wines. Winemakers Keith and Joel take you through wines from various vineyards, look at oak usage and discuss how they create their final blends. Afterwards enjoy a light lunch to celebrate the end of vintage. $70pp/ $60pp for KTW members. Cnr Hermitage & Deaseys Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7500 W keithtullochwine.com.au
A LITTLE BIT OF ITALY Saturday April 13 & Sunday April 14, 2013 A celebration of wine, food, music, family and community with an Italian flair. Starting in the main street of Broke, visitors receive their passport to begin their journey around the participating wineries and restaurants. On Saturday evening several restaurants will also host Italian-themed dinners. W brokefordwich.com.au
WHISPERING BROOK ALFRESCO CELEBRATION Saturday April 13 & Sunday April 14, 2013 Whispering Brook is featuring an alfresco celebration of great wine & food featuring a beautiful Italian themed menu of slow cooked food as part of A Little Bit of Italy. 10:00am - 4pm. Rodd Street, Broke. P 02 6579 1386 or 02 9818 4126 W whispering-brook.com
MAY UPPER HUNTER WINE & FOOD AFFAIR Saturday May 4, 2013 The Hunter Valley’s best street party is celebrating its 10th anniversary so get ready for a big day. Enjoy a fantastic collection of street food, gourmet take home foods and Upper Hunter wines. 11am - 4pm. Guest appearances and cooking demonstrations by MasterChef 2012 winner, Andy Allen. Ogilvie Street, Denman. P 0437 835 954 W upperhunterwineandfoodaffair.com.au
NEXT GENERATION POP UP WINE BAR Saturday May 4, 2013 The Next Generation Hunter Valley winemakers David Hook, Andrew Thomas, Rhys Eather, Nick Paterson, Mike De Iuliis and Andrew Margan will be popping up in Newcastle on their One More For the Road Tour. The Landing Bar & Kitchen. 3pm - 6pm. $35pp. W nextgenerationhuntervalley.com.au
THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday May 5, 2013 It’s Spanish Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO and no corkage. Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
SIMPLY HARVEST SIMPLY HUNTER LONG LUNCH Saturday May 11, 2013 With the theme of abundance this seven course degustation lunch showcases local produce prepared by Muse, one of the Hunter’s finest restaurants, perfectly matched with Oakvale’s wine - all set to live music in the beautiful grounds of Oakvale Wines. $125pp. 12pm - 4pm. Bookings essential. 1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7088 W oakvalewines.com.au
RIDGEVIEW AUTUMN IN SEASON DINNER Friday May 17, 2013 RidgeView’s head chef Donna Hollis and her team create a sumptuous four course dining experience using seasonal produce from their organic kitchen garden. Relax with a complimentary glass of bubbles & canapés then indulge in a culinary delight. $65pp or $85pp with matching wines. BYO welcome. RidgeView wines at cellar door prices. 273 Sweetwater Road, Pokolbin. P 02 6574 7332 W ridgeview.com.au
LOVEDALE LONG LUNCH Saturday May 18 & Sunday May 19, 2013 Seven Lovedale wineries invite you to share a weekend of fine wine, gourmet food and live entertainment for the 20th annual Lovedale Long Lunch. Get a group of friends together and enjoy a fun weekend away. Saturday Entry Packages $85pp (includes Sunday re-admission). Sunday Only Entry Packages $65pp. W lovedalelonglunch.com.au
Don’t miss your introduction to
on the next page
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45
WHAT’S ON Rodd Street, Broke. P 02 9818 4126 W whispering-brook.com
JUNE
SCHOOL iS IN at HUNGERFORD HILL WINES
For a full calendar of events go to huntervalleyuncorked.com.au CHEF’s PLATE LUNCH Throughout June Chef’s Plate Lunches offer foodies the chance to enjoy a set price lunch at some of the Hunter Valley’s best restaurants. For just $39, diners can enjoy a main meal and a glass of Hunter Valley wine. Supported by Hunter Chefs & Co. Go to website for participating restaurants, featured dishes & wine matches. W huntervalleyuncorked.com.au WHISPERING BROOK OLIVE LONG TABLE LUNCH Saturday June 1, 2013 Experience a tutored walking tour of the Whispering Brooks olive grove and vineyard followed by a delightful four course oliveinspired long table lunch set in the estate’s olive grove. Lunch includes matching Whispering Brook wine, olive oil & food appreciation discussions, and live music. Bookings essential.
Saturday June 1 & Saturday June 29, 2013 Explore the world of Hungerford Hill Wines with an underground winery tour including tank sample tastings. Learn the characteristics of each wine while enjoying an assortment of canapés by Muse, and chatting with the Hungerford Hill winemakers. $65pp or $55pp members. 11am-1pm. Bookings essential. 2450 Broke Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4990 0702 W hungerfordhillwines.com.au HUNTER CHEFS & CO ANNUAL FOOD FIGHT Monday June 3, 2013 The gloves are off for The Hunter Chefs & Co 4th annual Food Fight. The Hunter region ‘Masters’ take on the ‘Young Guns’. To keep the competition fair and interesting Sydney chefs Colin Fassnidge and Mat Kemp will assist & mentor the younger chefs. Each team will create a three course lunch with guests deciding which teams’ cuisine reigns supreme. Go to the website for times, tickets & pricing.
... where the vineyards meet the river. Cellar door open daily 9.30am-4.30pm
(closed Christmas Day, Good Friday and for ticketed events)
Restaurant open Saturday 12pm-3pm & Sunday 10am-3pm 700 Dalwood Road, Dalwood NSW 2335 T 02 4938 3444 F 02 4938 3555 E wecellardoor@pernod-ricard.com
www.wyndhamestate.com
Wyndham Estate Dalwood Road, Dalwood. P 0402 693 380 E mail@hunterchefs.com.au W hunterchefs.com.au WINE WARS II @ Chez Pok Friday June 7, 2013 Experience a show- down of wine regions as Iain Riggs of Brokenwood Wines challenges Jack Walton of D’Arenberg. Enjoy a five course degustation dinner designed by Chef John Edwards, matched with two masked wines poured for entrée, main and dessert. Diners choose their favourite wine to reveal the winning winemaker. $90pp. 6:30pm. Bookings essential. Ekerts Lane, Pokolbin. P 02 4993 8999 W chezpok.com.au Margan Garden to Plate Cooking School Friday June 14 & Friday June 28, 2013 Start your adventure with a tour of the beautiful Margan kitchen garden led by gardener Pat Hansson, then head into the kitchen for a cooking school with Chef Michael Robinson. After all the hard work reward yourself with a leisurely lunch matched with Margan wines. 1238 Milbrodale Road, Broke. P 02 6579 1372 W margan.com.au
WHAT’S ON RIDGEVIEW OCEAN TO THE PADDOCK DEGUSTATION DINNER
THE CORK & FORK GOLF CUP
STEAK & SHIRAZ MATCHING
Saturday June 15, 2013 Head Chef, Donna Hollis and her team draw inspiration from the local culinary offerings to bring you a seven course degustation dinner matched perfectly with estate grown RidgeView wines. Meet the RidgeView crew and embark on a gastronomic journey up the valley. $125pp. 6:30pm. Bookings essential.
Saturday June 22, 2013 Golf, wine and food all rolled into one. Play alongside some of the Hunter’s renowned winemaker legends and larrikins. First players to RSVP have the opportunity to choose their winemaker or larrikin partner. Four person ambrose. 9am shotgun start. $165pp. 18 holes with shared electric cart hire, on course wine and food tastings.
273 Sweetwater Road, Pokolbin. P 02 6574 7332 W ridgeview.com.au
Vintage Drive, Rothbury. P 02 4998 2201 W thevintage.com.au
Fridays & Saturdays The Hunter Valley Steak House (Mercure Resort Hunter Valley Gardens) is offering the perfect Steak & Shiraz matching experience from 5pm - 7pm each Friday and Saturday night. You will be served samples of different streaks & Shiraz with tasting notes to assist you in choosing the best matches $15pp (free when dining at Hunter Valley Steak House afterwards).
WOMEN IN WINE
SUNDAY LUNCH with Tyrrell’s Wines & The Hunter Valley Steak House
Saturday June 22, 2013 Held at Tempus Two Barrel Room this special event celebrates our many women in wine - join Tracey Spicer and her special guests for an indulgent luncheon of beautiful fusion food, fashion, fun and fine wine. More than a great excuse to dress up, this event will be donating proceeds from wine sales directly to a selection of worthy charities. 12 Noon for 12:30pm. $195 pp. Special pricing available for group table bookings and for Pewter Members. Bookings essential. Broke Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4993 3999 E pewter@tempustwo.com.au
Cnr Broke & McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 2000 W mercurehuntervalley.com.au THE WORLD IN A GLASS
Sunday June 30, 2013 A relaxed lunch at The Hunter Valley Steak House with representatives from Tyrrell’s winemaking team to lead you through a selection of their award winning museum wines. Indulge in a four course winter lunch prepared by Chef Jean-Marc Pollet including two seafood courses matched to Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon and two beef courses matched with Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Shiraz. $125pp. 12pm. Bookings essential.
Fridays & Saturdays Expand your wine repertoire & fine tune your palate. A tutored tasting comparing the Hunter Valley’s key varietals with benchmark wines from other Australian wine regions and France. Over $600 worth of wine is opened & tasted. Also includes a wine production and winery tour with new vintage barrel sample tastings. $50pp. 10:30am - 1pm. Bookings essential. 600 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 2992 W firstcreekwines.com.au
P 02 4993 7018 W tyrrells.com.au/whats-on/events
21July2013
Come to the Hunter Valley and enjoy a running/walking experience that is second to none. Run past world famous gardens, historic homesteads & international golf resorts. Mix that with a huge selection of races for all fitness standards, a friendly country race crew, loads of prizes and you have an event not to be missed.
wineryrunningfestival |huntervalley Proudly Presented by
Incorporating
Events on offer Host Venue
Coal & Allied Marathon Coal & Allied Half Marathon Winery 10km Run/Walk 5km Winery Wander Pacific Smiles Dental Kids Marathon & Storybook 2k
entries at www.huntervalleymarathon.net
WHAT’S ON Hunter Valley Wine & Food Month Continued
FIRESIDE HIGH TEA At TOWER LODGE Saturdays & Sundays + Monday June 10, 2013
KITCHEN GARDEN TOUR & LUNCH Saturdays & Sundays + Monday June 10, 2013
A decadent High Tea in luxurious surrounds. Warm up by the grand open fire, enjoy a selection of fine teas or espresso coffee and indulge in a sumptuous choice of baked sweets and savoury treats. Sparkling wine & champagne available. From $42pp. 2pm - 5pm. Bookings essential.
Tour Tower Estate’s kitchen garden with Executive Chef George Francisco and garden specialist Elisa Fitzpatrick. Discuss sustainable production, the fundamentals of permaculture, and how to grow & prepare your own fresh produce. Every half hour from 11am - 2pm. Free. Afterwards enjoy a ‘Chef’s Plate Lunch’ at Roberts. $39pp. 12pm 3pm. Halls Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 4998 W towerestate.com
Halls Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 4900 W towerestate.com
PAELLA COOKING CLASS Each Sunday This fun and festive class at The Verandah Restaurant includes a three course lunch of Spanish Iberico jamon with fresh baked bread matched with Calais Estate
sparkling wine; paella served with sangria; and churros with chocolate dipping sauce served with Apera. $80pp 10:30am - 1pm. Bookings essential. Palmers Lane, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
TROPHY & GOLD MEDAL WINNING WINES Daily Follow this self-drive wine trail to taste some of the very best Hunter Valley wines as judged at the Clear Image Hunter Valley Wine Show. Participating wineries include De Iuliis Wines, Tulloch Wines, Tyrrell’s Wines, First Creek Wines, McLeish Estate, Thomas Wines and Tintilla Estate. Go to the website for featured wines & cellar door opening times. W huntervalleyuncorked.com.au
Planning a Meeting or Corporate Event in the vineyards?
freshideas
that engage and deliver call us
to plan your next conference, meeting or team building event P 4933 5400 info@huntervalleyevents.com.au www.huntervalleyevents.com.au
Lunch Thursday through to Monday • Dinner Friday and Saturday • Open midweek for dinners by special arrangement BISTRO MOLINES AT TALLAVERA GROVE • 749 MOUNT VIEW RD MOUNT VIEW • P 02 49 909 553 • www.bistromolines.com.au
Bursting w
ith ne w ... for ideas 20 years
sally sneddon graphic design
P 4934 4781 www.ssgd.com.au
JULY KEITH TULLOCH VINEYARD WORKSHOP & LUNCH Saturday July 6, 2013 Rug up and join Keith Tulloch in the vineyard to learn about the vineyard cycle, pruning, trellising, soils and management. Sample wines from individual vineyards, and finish with a warming soup lunch from Muse Kitchen. $50pp/$40pp KTW members. Cnr Hermitage & Deaseys Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7500 W keithtullochwine.com.au
WINERY RUNNING FESTIVAL Sunday July 21, 2013 Whether you are a serious marathon runner or out for a social fun run this event has something for everyone. Staged in Pokolbin in the heart of Hunter Valley wine country, the event includes seven individual events from a marathon to a 2km run/ walk for children . P 02 4943 8138 E admin@hevents.com.au W huntervalleymarathon.net
EACH MONTH LOCALS NIGHT AT ROBERTS RESTAURANT Tuesday and Wednesday nights BYO no corkage, set menu pricing and special meals created each week just for the locals. Games on the lawns, and a great atmosphere for the whole family. Halls Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 7330 W robertstrestaurant.com
WINE AND CHOCOLATE MASTERCLASS Most Saturdays & Sunday Be guided through a selection of the finest wines from Wyndham Estate, including their extensive Shiraz blends matched with premium chocolate from the Hunter Valley Chocolate Company. Classes begin 2:00pm at the Cellar Door. $10pp. Bookings essential. Dalwood Road, Dalwood. P 02 4938 3444 W wyndhamestate.com.au
TALLAVERA GROVE VINEYARD TOUR Last Saturday of each month Take a guided walk through the beautiful vineyards of Tallavera Grove for some amazing photo opportunities and the chance to get an inside view on the life and times of a working vineyard. $5pp. Bookings highly recommended. 749 Mount View Road, Mount View. P 02 4990 7535 W tallaveragrove.com.au
Top LEFT Karlie Cowley and Skye Johnson get into the swing of things at the Tower Lodge New Year’s Eve 1920s Speak Easy Party. TOP RIGHT Hungerford Hill staff Mitchell Beattie, Sharon Evans and Sean Parkinson enjoyed the screening of Skyfall at North Sydney Oval. BOTTOM RIGHT Pepper Tree Wines staff all dressed up for their annual members dinner in Sydney. BOTTOM LEFT Members get amongst it at Brokenwood Wines’ Get Your Hands Dirty vintage lunch.
OUT & ABOUT
in the Hunter Valley
TOP LEFT Bimbadgen Cellar Door staff braved the wet weather at Sydney Cellar Door, Hyde Park. TOP RIGHT Veteran viticulturist Harry Tulloch oversees picking at Keith Tulloch Wines. BOTTOM RIGHT Hunter Chefs & Co lunch hosted by Esca Bimbadgen. BOTTOM Left The suckling pig sliders were a hit at The Cellar Restaurant’s 35th birthday celebrations.
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‘New Beginnings’
CHRIS ELFES PHOTOGRAPHY POKOLBIN
|
NEWCASTLE
|
SYDNEY
www.chriselfesphotography.com | 0413 805 222 | elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au
Immerse yourself in the Hunter Valley way of life during our month-long series of intimate events in celebration of the region’s unique culture of fine wine and food. Cosy up fireside to be treated to decadent indulgences or dine in the company of our iconic winemakers and chefs as part of our Winemaker’s Table Series. The Edible Experience will have you plating up delectable creations using local produce with some of the best names in food. These are just some of the experiences on offer that are sure to delight and inspire.
Come and indulge in the simple pleasures of life. Throughout the Hunter Valley region.
Whether for a week or weekend, these events make the Hunter Valley an even more deliciously irresistible escape.
The month of
huntervalleyuncorked.com.au
June 2013