breathe issue 33 WINTER 2012
PATRICK AULD
our latest living legend
2012 Hunter Valley Legends & Wine Industry Awards
MEET THE LOCALS
Wine Reviews
What’s On
In its seventh year, Hunter Valley Uncorked Balmoral is your opportunity to share a premium Hunter Valley wine and food experience with more than 20 of our great wineries and producers.
Balmoral Beach, Sydney
With live entertainment and free entry for all the family, our beachside Balmoral event gives you the chance to taste some of our finest wines, while pairing the region’s fresh produce to match their unique characteristics. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the Hunter Valley at one of Sydney’s great icons.
Free Entry
huntervalleyuncorked.com.au
11am - 5pm Parking is extremely limited a FREE SHUTTLE BUS will run from Spit Junction to Balmoral Beach.
Sunday 4th
November 2012
mcguigancellars@mcguiganwines.com.au
www.mcguiganwines.com.au
contents
issue 33 WINTER 2012
25
10
16 Every Issue
5 7 26 29 45 50
President’s Note News Meet the Locals Extra, Extra What’s On Out & About
Wine
10 16 20 25 29
37 Culinary Couples 41 A Serving of Our Best Photographs by Chris Elfes appearing in BREATHE may be purchased by contacting Chris Elfes, Photography on Hermitage. elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au
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2012 Hunter Valley Legends & Wine Industry Awards Pinot Noir: The Mother of all Hunter Valley Grapes Wine Profile: Patrick Auld From The Cellar Wine Reviews
Food
COVER PHOTOGRAPH of PATRICK AULD, OAKVALE WINES BY CHRIS ELFES. STORY ON PAGE 20.
37
Lifestyle
42 Art: Life in Art
BREATHE
president’s note
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n this winter issue of Hunter Valley Breathe, we congratulate the 2012 Hunter Valley Wine Industry Award winners and celebrate the lifetime contributions made by this year’s Living Legend (page 10). Each year, a Hunter Valley wine industry member is recognised and thanked for their long-term vision and commitment to the betterment of our industry. These truly dedicated people are our Living Legends.
Publisher Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association
EDITOR
Melinda Kelly P 02 4991 4533 E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au
graphic design Sally Sneddon Graphic Design P 02 4934 4781 E sally@ssgd.com.au www.ssgd.com.au
Photography
Chris Elfes Photography P 0413 805 222 E elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au www.chriselfesphotography.com
SUB-EDITOR
Lauren Kennedy E wordhappy@gmail.com
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Melinda Kelly P 02 4991 4533
E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au EDITORIAL Writers
Luke Campbell, Andrew Graham, Melinda Kelly, Virginia Mitchell, Grant Radford.
Printing Finsbury Green P 02 9662 2600 Publisher DETAILS Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association P 02 4991 4533 E melinda@winehuntervalley.org.au ABN 15 728 023 119 All correspondence to: PO BOX 352, Cessnock. 2325 © COPYRIGHT This publication may not, in whole or part be reproduced, translated, copied, photocopied to any form without the express written permission of the publisher. While every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising there from. The information and figures contained in this publication have been provided to the publishers by the advertisers and their sources. No warranty is given by Breathe Hunter Style Magazine as to the accuracy of these figures and information as they are subject to change without notice. The responsibility or copyright on all supplied material rests with the supplier.
On page 20, we catch up with our latest Hunter Valley Living Legend, Patrick Auld, who has racked up almost 40 years of winemaking in the Hunter Valley and is as excited as a kid on Christmas morning with his new winery ‘toys’ at Oakvale Wines. While the Hunter Valley isn’t famous for its Pinot Noir, did you know that it is actually the genetic home of most of Australia’s Pinot Noir vines? On page 16, Andrew Graham takes a look at The Mother of all Hunter Valley Grapes. The people of the Hunter Valley are vital to making our community a truly fabulous place for us to live and for you to visit. Turn to page 26 to meet some of our friendly locals. Then, go to page 37, where Melinda Kelly continues our food series on some of the dedicated Hunter Valley husband-and-wife restaurant teams, in Culinary Couples. And, of course, there are all the regular features like art, wine reviews, What’s On, and much more. There’s so much to experience in the Hunter Valley, so come and join us! We look forward to seeing you very soon. Andrew Margan, President Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association
2012 CLEAR IMAGE DATES TO REMEMBER
1st JUNE 2012 30th JUNE 2012 20th JULY 2012 30th JUL - 3rd AUG 2012 13th -15th AUGUST 2012 16th AUGUST 2012 17th AUGUST 2012
Invitation and Schedule of Classes mailed to Exhibitors Closing Date for entries to be received by the Show Secretary Exhibit Labels mailed out to Exhibitors Delivery of exhibits to Harris Transport Judging of Exhibits (9:00am to 11:30am) Exhibitors Tasting at School of Infantry Clear Image HVWIA Celebrations Luncheon
The first wine show in Australia was held in the Hunter Valley in 1848 and the Hunter Valley Wine Show has been held continuously since 1974. The Clear Image Hunter Valley Wine Show attracts the highest calibre of Australian and International judges and continues to be an innovative, progressive show. Chairman of Judges Jim Chatto is this year joined by Singapore based Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW. Lisa is the Asia & Pacific correspondent for The Wine Advocate. Full results including past winners can be viewed on the web site www.hunterwineshow.com.au. Our mission statement The presentation of a credible, annual regional wine show that assesses the quality and enhances the reputation of Hunter Valley wines.
De Iuliis wines is one of the Hunter Valley’s top producers. The secret to our success is our attention to detail and small batch approach, which has seen a vast array of awards and great reviews bestowed on us over the last few years.
Regionality and a modern approach to winemaking ensure unique yet highly identifiable wines with a sense of time and place. One of the hardest names to say in the Australian wine industry, but also one of the best!
1616 BROke ROAD, POkOlBIn nSW 2320 sales@dewine.com.au P 02 4993 8000 E SAleS@DeWIne.cOm.Au
dewine.com.au DeWIne.cOm.Au
keeping it simple
Taste @ The Small Winemakers Centre & Hunter Resort
sales@thomaswines.com.au W thomaswines.com.au thomaswines.com.au T/F 02 6574 7371 E sales@thomaswines.com.au
SHAKEN & STIRRED
Diary Dates
Congratulations to Goldfish Hunter Valley bartender, Joel Hodge (pictured), who took out the Australian title in The Mixing Star Disaronno Global Cocktail Competition 2012.
Simply Shiraz Saturday 7 & Sunday 8 July 2012 oakvalewines.com.au
Joel won the title with his cocktail A Disaronno Republic, which uses Disaronno, Licor 43, Kings Ginger Liqueur, Mount Gay XO and The Bitter Truth Chocolate Bitters.
Clear Image 2012 Hunter Valley Wine Show Celebrations Lunch Friday 17 August 2012 info@winehuntervalley.org.au
We wish Joel luck as he competes in the World Finals in Berlin.
NEWs
Lindeman’s Ben Ean Old Still Heritage Cairn Unveiling Saturday 25 August 2012 info@winehuntervalley.org.au 2012 Hunter & Central Coast Awards for Excellence in Tourism Thursday 30 August 2012 tourismhunter.com.au Simply Semillon Saturday 6 & Sunday 7 October 2012 oakvalewines.com.au Hunter Valley Uncorked Balmoral Sunday 4 November 2012 huntervalleyuncorked.com.au
Keep up-to-date on what’s been happening in the Hunter Valley
In the Kitchen Matt Dillow of the Verandah Restaurant and his chef mate, Adam Ireland, are launching a new restaurant at Wynwood Estate. Named Twine Restaurant, it is due to open in September and will focus on Modern Australian cuisine.
EXCELLENCE IN AGRICULTURE
Matt is particularly excited about Twine’s signature dish, Singapore Chilli Mud Crabs. “We have a live crab tank and the dish will be available every day,” he said. According to Matt, he and Adam first met in 1993, when they both started their Commercial Cookery trade at TAFE in the Western Suburbs of Sydney. The pair has been mates for almost 20 years, and are excited to reunite and bring another unique restaurant to the Hunter Valley. Twine Restaurant will be open seven days for lunch, Friday, Saturday and Sunday for dinner, and will be available for group bookings, functions and weddings. “We plan Sunday dinners to be a little bit different. Adam will be cooking up a storm on the open fire with dishes like whole snapper wrapped in banana leaf with chermoula spices and preserved lemon and rosemary lamb shoulder,” Matt said. Guy Parkinson, Jess Graham and their team at Beltree have extended trading hours to include lunch Thursday to Sunday and dinner Fridays and Saturdays. The dynamic duo has closed their Charlestown restaurant, La Vespa, to focus on their much-loved Beltree. Meanwhile, Roberts Restaurant is now open seven nights a week. On Tuesday and Wednesday nights, Executive Chef, George Francisco, is creating a special locals menu.
Congratulations to Bob McLeish of McLeish Estate for receiving an Excellence in Agriculture award at the 2012 Sydney Royal Show. The award, given by the Royal Agriculture Society of New South Wales, acknowledges Bob’s 30 years of dedication to the Hunter Valley and the wine industry. Bob was presented the award by The Governor, Professor Marie Bashir (AC, CVO), and he is pictured here with Joe Casella of Casella Wines.
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NEWS INTERNATIONAL WINE CHALLENGE The Hunter Valley is celebrating its haul of medals at the 2012 International Wine Challenge. McGuigans, McLeish Estate, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, Tempus Two, First Creek, Tyrrell’s Wines, See Saw, Wyndham Estate and Glenguin Estate were all awarded medals. Hunter Valley Semillons took out six highly coveted Gold medals, including the McLeish Estate 2007 Semillon, Tyrrell’s 2006 Winemaker’s Selection Vat 1 Semillon, Tyrrell’s 2006 Single Vineyard Belford Semillon, Tyrell’s 2006 Single Vineyard HVD Semillon, McGuigans 2004 Bin 9000 Semillon, and McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant 2006 Heritage Collection Elizabeth Semillon. Australian wines won a record 69 Gold medals, an increase of almost 15 per cent. Australia also retained its world ranking position at number two, behind France, and was the country with the highest percentage of wines entered that received awards (83 per cent versus France’s 74 per cent). The top three Gold medal-winning nations for 2012 were France with 120, Australia with 69 and Portugal with 55. France topped the medal board overall, with a total of 1,136 medals, while Australia came second with 673 and Portugal third with 444. Trophy winners are to be announced in September in London. Meanwhile, Wine Gourmet Traveller has released its list of Australia’s Top Cellar Doors, with the Hunter Valley’s Keith Tulloch Wine, Lakes Folly, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, The Small Winemaker’s Centre and Tyrrell’s Wines all making the list.
PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT Phil Ryan, Don McWilliam, Simone Bryce, Jay Tulloch
HERITAGE CAIRN UNVEILING The Hunter Valley wine industry recently celebrated its history with the unveiling of a Heritage Cairn, acknowledging the Maurice O’Shea Mount Pleasant Label, at McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, as the 2011 Hunter Valley Heritage award recipient. The Hunter Valley Heritage Award was introduced in 2009 to acknowledge landmarks or items of historical importance, which have influenced the course of, or made a significant contribution to, the Hunter Valley wine industry. This is the first acknowledgment of the printed works, which have contributed so much to the present face of the area. The cairn, sculpted from local sandstone and sponsored by Brian and Fay McGuigan, was unveiled by Maurice O’Shea’s daughter, Simone Bryce. Maurice O’Shea established Mount Pleasant in 1921 and was blessed with a remarkable palate. He was a master blender with a tremendous ability to identify quality and longevity in young table wines. This was in an era when fortified wines dominated the Australian market, and very few Australians understood or appreciated table wines. His blending techniques and sophisticated use of oak - talents learnt while studying oenology at France’s Montpellier University - were credited with producing table wines of enormous flavour, intensity and longevity. Even to this day, more than half a century later, O’Shea’s wines from the 1940s and early 1950s continue to display the characteristics for which their maker was renowned. The Heritage Cairn acknowledging Lindeman’s Old Still will be unveiled on Saturday 25 August, 2012.
Keeping up with the
Hunter Valley
We’d love you to join us. Our winemakers and local wine families will be tweeting and updating on a regular basis.
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Twitter.com/hvbreathe Twitter.com/_hunterwine Facebook.com/pages/Hunter-ValleyWine-Industry-Assocation
NEWS MATTHEW JUKES’ 100 BEST AUSTRALIAN WINES 2012 United Kingdom wine expert, Matthew Jukes, has released his 100 Best Australian Wines list for 2012. Congratulations to Brokenwood Wines, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant and Tyrrell’s Wines, who made the list with the 2011 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Semillon, 2005 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, 2006 Tyrrell’s Winemakers Selection Vat 1 Semillon and 2009 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Shiraz. According to Jukes, the list represents the finest 100 Australian wines available on the shelves in the United Kingdom this coming year. “It is designed as a balanced list, including sparkling, all styles of whites and reds, sweet and fortified. I endeavour to cover all price points and as many regions as possible,” said Jukes.
DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS
2012 Hunter Valley Wine Show
The 2012 Decanter World Wine Awards have awarded the Regional Trophy - Australian Single Varietal White Over £10 to Brokenwood Wines.
The Hunter Valley Wine Show is undergoing several changes this year including a new Chairman of Judges, and the introduction of two new categories.
Brokenwood Wines, Tempus Two and Wyndham Estate were all awarded Gold medals, while Tyrrell’s Wines, Hungerford Hill, Keith Tulloch Wine, McGuigans, and McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant received a range of Silver, Bronze and Commended.
After 10 years as Chairman of Judges, Iain Riggs has stepped aside with Jim Chatto taking over the important role.
With 14,119 wines tasted, this is the largest entry ever for the Decanter World Wine Awards. Over 200 wine merchants, sommeliers, journalists and authors, including 54 Masters of Wine and 11 Master Sommeliers, took part in the judging. The winners of the International Trophies will be announced in September at the Royal Opera House, London.
“From this year the ‘100% HV’ section has been replaced with an expanded ‘Named Vineyard’ section, mirroring (where numbers warrant) the already existing ‘Open’ section,” Jim Chatto said. “This change plays to our great strength: unique single vineyard sites of individual character and personality; producing, high quality wines that cannot be made anywhere else.” A new award, ‘The Exceptional Wine of Provenance’ is also being introduced. Jim Chatto said the award is designed to recognise and celebrate vineyards of exceptional provenance reflecting consistency of style and quality over time. “An entry constitutes a ‘set’ of three different vintages of the same named vineyard wine covering a minimum spread of 10 years, “he said. “All three vintages will be judged by our esteemed Panel Chairs, resulting in one set being awarded the ‘Exceptional Wine of Provenance’ for that year.” The international judge this year is Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW who is based in Singapore and is the Asia & Pacific correspondent for The Wine Advocate.
PICTURED Jim Chatto, Chairman of Judges
A benchmark regional wine show, the Hunter Valley Wine Show aims to improve the quality of Hunter Valley wine, and has been held annually since 1974.
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The Hunter Valley has a long-standing history of excellence in the wine world. This would not be the case if not for the pioneers and legends of the Hunter Valley, and those who continually strive for the betterment and protection of the wine industry and the region. 10
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2012 Hunter Valley
Legends & Winners
Now in its sixth year, the Hunter Valley Legends and Wine Industry Awards acknowledge a Rising Star of the Year, Winemaker of the Year, Viticulturist of the Year, and Cellar Door of the Year at one of the industry’s key social and celebratory awards nights. The evening culminates with the announcement of the Hunter Valley Heritage Award and, very importantly, the induction the prestigious and highly regarded Hunter Valley Living Legend. Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association (HVWIA) President, Andrew Margan, said the evening recognises the skills, hard work, dedication and excellence of the region’s winemakers, viticulturists and industry professionals. “We have recognised and awarded the people who have been instrumental in building and maintaining the Hunter Valley’s standing as a worldclass wine-producing region, with wine styles of exceptional calibre not replicated anywhere else in the world,” Mr Margan said. “The shortlist of finalists was exceptional, and they should all be congratulated. Our region is well known because of the passion these individuals have for their profession. We are so proud of their achievements as members of our unique community.”
2012 HUNTER VALLEY WINE INDUSTRY
LIVING LEGEND Patrick Auld
Living Legends are considered to be individuals who have shown long-term vision and commitment to the betterment of the Hunter Valley Wine Industry and are inducted as Hunter Valley Legends.
“
Patrick Auld came to the Hunter Valley in 1973 to work for Brian McGuigan at the Hermitage Winery development. In April 1974, he joined Tulloch Wines as Laboratory Assistant and, in 1979, was appointed Winemaker.
In 1996, Patrick was We have recognised appointed to and awarded the the position of Manager/ people who have been Senior instrumental in building Winemaker of the Southcorp and maintaining the interests in Hunter Valley’s standing the Hunter Valley. This as a world-class wineincluded producing region, with serving five on the wine styles of exceptional years Hunter Valley calibre not replicated Vineyard Association anywhere else in the (HVVA), with world. two years as President, during which he oversaw the amalgamation of the HVVA and Wine Hunter Marketing to become the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Association.
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T
he Hunter Valley Legends and Wine Industry Awards annually recognise and honour these people. Winners are nominated by their industry peers as having made major contributions and excelled within the Hunter Valley grape and wine industry.
IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
With the sale of the Tulloch Winery in 2005, Patrick transferred with Southcorp to Great Western, Victoria, for a period before returning to Pokolbin as General Manager Production for Poole’s Rock Wines. Patrick has been a tireless member of the Pokolbin community, involving himself in the now-infamous Pokolbin Ball, and various wine industry organizations, both locally and nationally, but is perhaps most fondly associated with his role as Santa Claus at the Pokolbin District Christmas Party for many years. Patrick currently holds the position of Winemaker for Oakvale Wines.
PICTURED OPPOSITE PAGE John Tyrrell, accepting the Rising Star Award on behalf of his absent brother, Chris Tyrrell. PICTURED ABOVE Patrick Auld, 2012 Living Legend.
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WINE
RIEDEL 2012 HUNTER VALLEY RISING STAR OF THE YEAR LAFFORT 2012 HUNTER VALLEY WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR Nick Paterson, Dogliani Winemaking & Consulting Finalists: Nick Paterson, Dogliani Winemaking & Consulting; Jim Chatto, Pepper Tree Wines; Peter Hall, McGuigan Wines; Usher Tinkler, Poole’s Rock Wines & Tinklers. This award recognises an outstanding Hunter Valley winemaker, who is a leader in their profession. It’s awarded for achievements over the span of a person’s career and is judged upon a number of factors including experience, qualifications, winemaking techniques, experimentation or individual style resulting in unique wine styles produced, wine-assessing skills, other awards or reviews gained from respected media or associations, and ambassadorial work for the winery and the region. PICTURED THIS PAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Nick Paterson, Dogliani Winemaking & Consulting; Jane Tyrrell, Tyrrell’s Wines. PICTURED OPPOSITE PAGE Carl Davies, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard; Michael Hatcher, Hungerford Hill Wines; Jay Tulloch, Tulloch Wines.
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Nick Paterson is currently Proprietor of Dogliani Winemaking & Consulting, looking after up to ten clients and handcrafting up to 50 individual wines in any given vintage. The highlight of Nick’s year was winning the 2011 NSW Wine of the Year, Winestate Champion Chardonnay for Australia & New Zealand, and seven gold medals with the Mistletoe Wines 2009 Reserve Chardonnay. During Nick’s 19 years as a winemaker, his wines have been awarded a stunning three championships, 25 National Trophies, two International trophies and 45 gold medals. Nick makes wine for three James Halliday five-star rated wineries and lists his achievements with Chardonnay in the Hunter Valley amongst his proudest.
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Chris Tyrrell, Tyrrell’s Wines Finalists: Chris Tyrrell, Tyrrell’s Wines; Sally Scarborough, Scarborough Wines Co.; Phil LeMessurier, Thomas Wines. This award recognises an aspiring star of the Hunter Valley Wine Industry. They can be involved in winemaking, vineyard management, marketing or sales, and have made an outstanding contribution over the preceding 12 months, showing vast results and achievements. They have represented the Hunter Valley Wine Industry generally, resulting in its profile being raised further. Chris Tyrrell first joined the family company at 18 years of age and is now the Assistant Winemaker and a Director of Tyrrell’s Vineyards. In 2012, Chris was selected as a participant of the prestigious Wine Industry Future Leaders program and has been an integral part of another stellar year on the wine show circuit for Tyrrell’s. In his spare time, Chris has racked up an impressive 100+ wine dinners and tastings in his ambassadorial role for the company over the past year, and spent time on the wine show circuit where he has been an associate judge for the past two years at the Hunter Valley Wine Show.
COMPOST FOR SOILS 2012 HUNTER VALLEY VITICULTURIST OF THE YEAR Carl Davies, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard Finalist: Carl Davies, Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard; Phil Swannell, Pokolbin Estate Vineyard & Belebula Vineyard. This category recognises that any great wine starts with good vineyard management resulting in quality grapes. It awards an outstanding viticulturist involved in the management of Hunter Valley vineyards and spans the person’s career to date. The criteria include demonstration of vineyards that have resulted in wines being consistently recognised by awards or noted by respected media, any vineyard/s that have achieved single vineyard status in the care of the nominee, any research and development undertaken to improve quality, and work that has resulted in better practice for the Hunter Valley as a whole. Carl Davies has worked solely in Hunter Valley vineyards for over 30 years, and currently holds the position of Vineyard Manager for Audrey Wilkinson. Carl lists the rejuvenation of the historical Audrey Wilkinson vineyard over the past 20 years as one of his proudest achievements and one that has gone on to yield countless successes at wine shows, using fruit grown under his supervision. His dedication and focus in the vineyard remain on research and development of new techniques, and the ongoing preservation and improvement of parcels of now 40 year old Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz vines under his care.
CBA LOCAL BUSINESS BANKING 2012 HUNTER VALLEY CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR Hungerford Hill Wines Finalists: Hungerford Hill Wines, Ballabourneen Wine Company, Bimbadgen, Margan Family Wines. This award recognises excellence at a Hunter Valley Cellar Door which largely influences the public perception and image of the Hunter Valley Wine Industry. Cellar Doors must display discernible promotion of Hunter Valley Wines, they must be open for visitation without appointment, and must be able to demonstrate active involvement in wine/tourism industry activities and events. The Cellar Door of the Year Award is judged by ‘secret shoppers’, who had the following to say about their experiences: “Hungerford Hill is a true Hunter Valley champion, actively promoting the Hunter Valley region and its wines as a true ambassador. There is an ‘abundance’ attitude in their manner, and they recognise and appreciate quality. This was reflected in their referrals to other local wineries and their promotion of outstanding local wines.”
2012 HERITAGE AWARD Sponsored by Brian and Fay McGuigan
Tulloch Wines for The Pokolbin Dry Red Label The Heritage Award acknowledges landmarks or items of historical importance that have influenced the course of, or made a significant contribution to, the Hunter Valley Wine Industry. Hector Tulloch first used the Pokolbin Dry Red label for Shiraz in 1952 along with its brother wine, Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin. The latter became one of the premium red wines of Australia in the 1950s and ‘60s, enjoying a reputation second to none. Up until the early 1950s, Tulloch Wines had been sold mainly in bulk to other wine companies such as Lindeman’s, Hardy’s, Mildara and Maurice O’Shea. As table wine came into popularity following the Second World War, Hector Tulloch decided that Tulloch Wines should be sold under their own brand. Hector consulted a printer friend and was given some labels to look at, and from this emerged the iconic Pokolbin Dry Red, Private Bin, and Hunter River White (later to be known as Pokolbin Riesling) labels. With the help of Sydney Wine Merchants, Johnny Walker and later Harry Brown, Pokolbin Dry Red and Pokolbin Riesling appeared on most restaurant wine lists in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. The famed 1954 vintage of Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin won First Prize for Claret, First Prize for Burgundy, and Best Red Wine of the Royal Sydney Show in 1956, cementing this label’s reputation as one of Australia’s great wines and putting the Pokolbin region on the map for premium table wine. The awards are supported by the NSW Office of Trade, Business & Industry.
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2012 hunter valley
Legends & Wine Industry Awards Dinner IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
PICTURED TOP ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Jim Chatto, Scott Comyns, Brian McGuigan, Usher Tinkler, Richard Done. SECOND ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Greg Jones, Ashleigh McDonald, Sarah Williams, Jason Thomas, The team from Hungerford Hill. THIRD ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Andrew Margan, Lisa Margan, Liz Jackson, Shaun Silkman. BOTTOM ROW LEFT TO RIGHT Tegan Brideson, Valerie Agnew, Pauline Tyrrell, Brian Agnew, Nomi Halifax, Sally Scarborough.
PICTURED TOP FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Iain Riggs, Jim Chatto, Nick Paterson PICTURED MIDDLE ROW FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Bruce Tyrrell, Fay McGuigan, Brian McGuigan, Jay Tulloch, Patrick Auld
Legends Luncheon Bistro Molines IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
PICTURED TOP FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Phil Ryan, guests celebrate at Bistro Molines. SECOND ROW FROM LEFT TO RIGHT Jay Tulloch, Patrick Auld, Brian McGuigan, Fay McGuigan, Bruce Tyrrell, Phil Ryan, Iain Riggs, Nick Paterson, Carl Davies.
WINE
The Mother of All Hunter Valley Grapes WORDS BY ANDREW GRAHAM & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
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hat is the first red grape that comes to mind when you think of the Hunter Valley?
For most people, the answer is a simple one - Shiraz. Or perhaps even Merlot. Or Cabernet Sauvignon, for that matter (not even touching on ‘newer’ varieties, such as Sangiovese). Yet, nobody mentions the one grape that, according to Hunter River Vineyard Association records from the mid 1800s, was ideally suited to the Valley - the one grape that, circa 1960, was the most planted red variety in the Hunter Valley. I’m taking about Pinot Noir, a variety that seems like something of an outsider in recent Hunter grapegrowing history, a vinous interloper normally associated with cooler climate Australian vineyards in regions such as the Yarra Valley, Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills. But, dig a little deeper, and you’ll find that the Hunter Valley is more suited to this capricious variety than expected. Interestingly, the Hunter Valley is actually the genetic home of most of Australia’s Pinot Noir vines. To explain that further, we need to go back to the 1920s, when Leontine O’Shea - at the urging of her then just 24-year-old son, Maurice bought the renowned Pokolbin vineyard of Charles King, a vineyard that was established in the 1880s on a crown land grant.
His search led to the James Busby collection, acknowledged as Australia’s first significant grapevine material, and a particular selection of vines thought to be taken from Clos de Vougeot in Vosne-Romanée (though their lineage is murky some say these magical cuttings were imported by O’Shea himself, via the time-honoured ‘vine in boot’ method).
Tyrrell’s, too, is notable in the context of Hunter Valley Pinot Noir history, having produced its first straight Hunter Valley Pinot Noir (though not labelled as such) back in 1972. Even now, the Tyrrell’s Vat 6 Hunter Pinot Noir is regarded as one of the enduring classics of the region, renowned for its definitive character and longevity. (Indeed, a late 1980s Tyrrell’s Hunter Pinot Noir recently tasted was still going strong. Try doing that with an equivalent example from elsewhere!)
It wasn’t until the 1960s, however after O’Shea’s death - that the true value of these celebrated French Pinot Noir vines Beyond just were realised, history, it’s Unsurprisingly, the with then-NSW little wonder Director-General that Pinot Noir Hunter Valley vignerons of Agriculture, is so valued love the notion that the Graham in the Hunter Gregory, Valley when Hunter is Australian singling out the you talk to the Pinot Noir ‘ground zero’. vines as having vignerons. significant As a grape genetic importance and being variety, it’s highly suited to the worthy of inclusion in a new vine region, with its early ripening nature propagation scheme. Gregory enabling it to be picked before late took cuttings from the Mount summer rains hit. The climate of Pleasant vineyard to set up a special the Hunter Valley is also conducive grapevine collection, naming the to the crafting of full-bodied Pinot clone from Mount Pleasant ‘MV6’ Noir styles, with warm summers (or ‘Mother Vine 6’). and extended cloud cover making for ideal ripening conditions. Pinot The MV6 clone, even now, has Noir, too, is classically thought to gone on to become one of the most perform best on limestone-rich soils, important Pinot Noir clones in another element which plenty of Australia and New Zealand. Vast spots in the Hunter Valley can offer. swathes of vineyards from the clone
now exist in regions such as the Yarra Valley, Maurice Mornington O’Shea, ... it’s highly suited to the Peninsula, something Tasmania and region, with its early ripening of a throughout wunderkind nature enabling it to be picked Marlborough in the history before late summer rains hit. in effect, making of the Hunter the Hunter Valley, Valley the (contentious) real home of changed the name of the vineyard Australian Pinot Noir. to ‘Mount Pleasant’, going on to use Unsurprisingly, the Hunter Valley the property as the backbone of vignerons love the notion that the some of the most unique wines in Hunter is Australian Pinot Noir the region’s history, many of which ‘ground zero’. Bruce Tyrrell of included amounts of Pinot Noir. Tyrrell’s Wines recently said, The Pinot Noir context for O’Shea “This [the Hunter Valley] is the home came from his wine education in of modern Australian Chardonnay France, where he developed an and Pinot Noir,” suggesting that, ”if appreciation for the Pinot Noiryou were to say that in the middle based wines of Burgundy and of Tasmania or Victoria, you may beyond. It was this appreciation that indeed have a fight on your hands,” spurred O’Shea into sourcing the despite what history suggests. greatest Pinot Noir vines he could get his hands on.
Conversely, the challenge with growing Pinot Noir in the Valley is that the summer is very warm perhaps too warm at times - which can lead to wines that can be a touch overripe and which lack a little elegance. There are some secrets to countering this though, as Tintilla Estate Winemaker, James Lusby, explains: “It’s a bit of a delicate wine to make; you have to be very gentle. It’s a labour of love. There are some good tricks I’ve found over the seven years we have been making Pinot - the most important is the timing of picking. It needs to be watched like a hawk. Towards the end, it can ripen quickly - almost overnight it can be there, and needs picking straight away.” He also notes that Tintilla Estate’s Four Marys Pinot Noir benefits from finishing off its fermentation in only French oak barrels.
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WINE
... this is seriously intriguing stuff...
It’s not only Lusby who undertakes this labour of love. When you dig around, it seems there is plenty of Pinot Noir planted and produced in the Hunter Valley, with patches of old vines planted all over the region. Even the tiny Chateau Pato has a few vines, not to mention more old plantings in the Upper Hunter Valley at James Estate. One producer with a particular focus on Hunter Valley Pinot Noir - that, indeed, can’t make enough of it - is Scarborough Wine Co. What Scarborough does (quite uniquely) is to produce an intriguing multi-vintage Pinot Noir, alongside its standard vintage wine, an option which Sally Scarborough believes gives “versatility and ensures consistency of the style from year to year.” Scarborough has also just released an updated Pinot Noirbased Rosé that has a little sweetness and a lovely bright purple/pink colour, a combination that has seen it achieve instant popularity at the Cellar Door in particular. Perhaps the most important new Hunter Valley Pinot Noir release, though, comes from McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, with its new 2011 Mothervine Pinot Noir. This 2011 vintage is the first release of a straight Pinot Noir at Mount Pleasant since 1996 and, as the name suggests, pays homage to founder Maurice O’Shea’s famous contribution to local Pinot Noir. A genuinely exciting wine that can hold its own amongst more fashionable, cool-climate Australian Pinot, this is seriously intriguing stuff. It is only made in small numbers, to be sold largely via the Cellar Door. Whilst this new straight Pinot Noir is making waves, the wine style that O’Shea himself is most famous for is actually a blend of Hunter Valley Shiraz and Pinot Noir. 18
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Indeed, some of O’Shea’s wines from the 1940s and 1950s are regarded as some of the finest Australian wines ever created, with the best examples still drinking well at 50 years of age. Suitably, Mount Pleasant also crafts a Shiraz-Pinot Noir blend known as the Mount Henry, that shows off the style with aplomb. Its fabulous 2011 version will also be released later in the year. As ever, the crafty Iain Riggs at Brokenwood is in on the Hunter Valley Shiraz-Pinot blend caper. He also made straight Pinot Noir back in the 1980s and is now about to plant some more on Brokenwood’s Cricket Pitch vineyard. The intention is to make a ‘Hermitage/Pinot’ wine that taps into the wonderful mediumbodied joy of old O’Shea’s Shiraz blends. Riggs is also working on a ‘field blend’ - that is, all harvested at the same time - in the Graveyard vineyard, which will include Pinot Noir and Trebbiano among the mix. Riggs describes it best when talking about the future of Pinot Noir in the Hunter Valley: “Watch this space...”
PICTURED 1997 Château Pâto Pinot Noir, 2010 Tintilla Estate Four Mary’s Pinot Noir, 2011 Scarborough Pinot Noir, 2011 Mount Pleasant Mothervine Pinot Noir, 2009 Tyrrell’s Vat 6 Pinot Noir.
Recreating History Bring back the tradition that made the Hunter Valley famous
WYNWOOD ESTATE 310 OAKEY CREEK RD POKOLBIN NSW 2320
www.wynwoodestate.com.au
4 londons road, lovedale hunter valley nsw 2325 www.capercailliewine.com.au www .capercailliewine.com.au
WINE PROFILE
PATRICK AULD our latest living legend WORDS BY MELINDA KELLY & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
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T
he Hunter Valley’s latest Living Legend award recipient, Patrick Auld, loves a chat. It’s through this great attribute that he shares his immense wealth of knowledge and experience gained as a leading Hunter Valley Winemaker. Currently Winemaker with Oakvale Wines, Pat has racked up nearly 40 years in the Hunter Valley and, as a fifth-generation winemaker, wine just about flows in his veins. Melinda Kelly shared a couple of glasses of Hunter Valley Shiraz with Pat at the Legends Luncheon, held at Bistro Molines. What’s it like being named the 2012 Hunter Valley Living Legend? It really is such a great honour to be recognised by your peers and to be inducted as a Hunter Valley Wine Industry Living Legend. How important is it to preserve the history of the Hunter Valley through the Legends & the Heritage Award? It is extremely important to preserve the heritage and history of the Hunter Valley wine industry. The Hunter Valley is the oldest winemaking region in Australia, and I believe we need to continue the great vision and passion created by the pioneers of the Hunter Valley wine industry. Did you choose winemaking, or did it choose you? It was an easy decision, taking into account I am a fifth-generation winemaker on my paternal side and third-generation winemaker on my maternal side of the family. I believe there was no alternative career. Have you ever been tempted to another wine region? Not really. I arrived in the Hunter Valley in 1974, and with the exception of spending a year in Great Western in 2001, I have had no desire to leave the Hunter Valley.
The Hunter Valley is the oldest winemaking region in Australia, and I believe we need to continue the great vision and passion created by the pioneers of the Hunter Valley wine industry.
Who or what has influenced you most, professionally? From a winemaking point of view, Peter Lehmann, Jay Tulloch, Ian Scarborough, John Duval and Philip John. On the viticultural side, John Tulloch and Brett Keeping have been very been influential on my career. I have enormous respect for Bob Oatley and Brian McGuigan for their ability to understand what the market requires for commercial wines and their success with the Rosemount Estate and Wyndham Estate brands. What is your favourite Oakvale Wine? 2011 Oakvale Single Vineyard Shiraz. You’ve just had a major capital upgrade at Oakvale. How’s that? Oakvale has undergone a major capital upgrade in purchasing new tanks, oak and processing equipment. The upgrade provides us the opportunity to focus on small parcels of premium wines and the opportunity to be creative in our winemaking.
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WINE PROFILE
What are the best bits about living and working in the Hunter Valley? The challenge of making great wine, producing wines from variable vintages, and enjoying the end results. And, of course, working with people that are dedicated to the long-term future of the Hunter Valley.
I believe we need to promote our wines through cellar doors and wine clubs and maintain a more personal approach and excellence to the promotion of Hunter Valley wine, and continue to promote the Hunter Valley as the wine destination of the world.
What do you see as the future for the Hunter Valley wine industry? It is imperative that we protect our iconic vineyards that have produced the great wine styles of the Hunter Valley. I believe we need to promote our wines through cellar doors and wine clubs and maintain a more personal approach and excellence to the promotion of Hunter Valley wine, and continue to promote the Hunter Valley as the wine destination of the world. What has been your best experience? Having the opportunity to make wine for Tulloch, Lindeman’s, Pooles Rock and Oakvale brands, and to work with people who have passion and great vision for the Hunter Valley.
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What has been your worst experience? The difficult vintages of 2008 and 2012, considering that the lead-up to the vintages was excellent, followed by continuous rain. The disappointment of watching the fruit deteriorate and the loss of income for the grower and winemaker was a difficult experience for me.
Everyone has a favourite Hunter Valley hideout - what is your favourite place in the Hunter Valley? Jay and Julie Tulloch’s front verandah, at their home in Pokolbin. It’s a place where great wine and food is enjoyed, resulting in great debates about the wine industry, politics and many other issues. To date, what has been your best ever wine and food experience? There have been so many. However, the latest was enjoying a celebratory lunch with Richard and Suzie Becker, and my wife Jenny at Bistro Molines. Robbie Molines’ superb roasted duck matched with some great Hunter Valley Shiraz made for one of the many great meals I have enjoyed in the Hunter Valley.
Lunch Thursday through to Monday • Dinner Friday and Saturday • Open midweek for dinners by special arrangement www.bistromolines.com.au BISTRO MOLINES AT TALLAVERA GROVE • 749 MOUNT VIEW RD MOUNT VIEW • P 02 49 909 553 • www.bistromolines.com.au
Heritage Vineyard Shiraz and Pinot Noir Tasting Visit McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant and taste some of the icon Heritage Vineyard wines from the Hunter Valley, sourced from vines planted by Maurice O’Shea in 1921. The Heritage Vineyard Shiraz and Pinot Noir Tasting is available throughout the Winter months in a private tasting room for $25 per person (minimum 2 people) and redeemable on purchases over $250.
Wines to be tasted will be the 2011 Mothervine Pinot Noir, 2011 Mount Henry Shiraz Pinot, 2009 Rosehill Shiraz, 2009 High Paddock Shiraz and some back vintage gems from our cellars dating back three decades. Bookings are essential. Phone Mount Pleasant Cellar Door on 49987505 or email mtpleasant@mcwilliamswines.com.au mtpleasant@mcwilliamswines.com.au
Pepper Tree Wines Handcrafting Wines Since 1991 Winemaker, Jim Chatto handcrafts wines of purity, elegance and distinction. Visit our award winning Cellar Door, enjoy a unique and relaxed wine experience set amongst the landscaped gardens that surround the property with one of our passionate wine team. CONTANGO ESPRESSO - ROASTERS
OPE NI NG J ULY A T PEPPER TREE WIN ERY
The region’s new premier coffee experience. Enjoy one of our single origin coffees roasted in-house or indulge in an exquisite sweet treat.
SPECIAL EVENT Join us for our ‘Pooch Picnic’ 19th August 2012 10.30am - 3.30pm Visit our website for more info
CELLAR DOOR | Mon - Fri 9.00am - 5.00pm | Sat - Sun 9.30am - 5.00pm | CONTANGO 10.00am - 4.00pm Daily 86 Halls Road, POKOLBIN 2320 | P: 02 4909 7100 | F: 02 4998 7746 | www.peppertreewines.com.au www.peppertreewines.com.au
www.ridgeview.com.au
MEET THE LOCALS WORDS BY GRANT RADFORD
LANCE MIKISCH VINEYARD MANAGER, WYNWOOD ESTATE & CAPERCAILLIE
Lance is a fifth-generation Vigneron and is excited about his latest mission, nurturing Wynwood Estate’s old vineyards back to their best form. He aims to produce fruit that will go into super premium Hunter Valley Shiraz, Semillon and Chardonnay reminiscent of the old Saxonvale days. In this position for 12 months now, he is relishing the challenge of producing top-quality fruit from these grand old vines. What is the best part of your job? The people, and working outside in the fantastic surrounds of the beautiful Hunter Valley. What is the worst part of your job? I really can’t complain. Nothing - I really enjoy what I do. A typical day includes? Enjoying the great outdoors, joking around with my work mates, and the satisfaction of seeing the results of my hard work. What do you drink at home? When I get home, it’s mostly a cold beer, followed by a bottle of Wynwood Estate’s finest with dinner. How do you relax after a hard day? With four sons, I’m still trying to work that one out! To say they keep me busy is a vast understatement. What was your most embarrassing moment? How long have you got?!
The best customer is one who... Buys a lot of our wine! And of course, enjoys the experience and ambience of our Cellar Door and the property. What is your favourite food and wine match? Easy! A Hunter Valley Shiraz and a nice, thick, rare steak with loads of vegetables. Your fantasy dinner party guest is... Allan Jackson, to sing and entertain while I cook and keep the drinks coming. What would your last meal and drinks be? I treat all my meals as the last one. It’s not cool, but I love... Showing chooks. Yes, you heard correctly… showing chooks… as in poultry. If you weren’t you, who would you like to be? No one else. I get into enough trouble just being me! If you weren’t a Vineyard Manager, what would you do? Hmm, give me a moment. How about a brain surgeon, or a sumo wrestler? What is your favourite product on offer at the moment? Caltex grease. What is your favourite holiday destination (outside of the Hunter, of course)? That would have to be Cairns. I love the tropics and the beers.
Rustic Mediterranean inspired cuisine in a spectacular outdoor setting. Views from every table of manicured vines, picturesque countryside and the winding Hunter River. Saturday lunch 12-3pm Sunday breakfast & lunch 10am-3pm Wyndham Estate Dalwood Rd, Dalwood via Branxton www.olivetreerestaurant.com.au
Ph 02 4938 1831
MEET THE LOCALS EBONNIE NEWBY
EXECUTIVE CHEF, ESCA BIMBADGEN Ebonnie Newby is the Executive Chef of Esca Bimbadgen. She started her apprenticeship in Newcastle, and has built on her reputation with an impressive resume including Seasons Restaurant in Hunter Valley Gardens, Terroir, Hungerford Hill and the Head Chef position at Peterson’s Restaurant Cuvée. What is the best part of your job? Making people happy! At Esca, we focus on a seasonal menu using great local produce. Having a vegetable patch onsite with a vast array of home-grown fruit and vegetables to use on the menu is fantastic. I have a great crew, which makes my job very satisfying. What is the worst part of your job? We always try to use the freshest ingredients, so it’s hard when we have had several weeks of rain and the cost of tomatoes has risen, or the seas are really rough so there’s no snapper. A typical day includes… Two days are never the same, but this keeps the job interesting! Each day, we go out into our gardens to collect the produce we need for the preparation of the day’s menu. What is your most memorable bottle ever tasted? Whilst working in Melbourne, I did a dégustation dinner for a VIP couple who were celebrating their engagement. They asked me to join them for a glass of Cristal Champagne. What do you drink at home? I love Hunter Valley Semillon, but also enjoy Italian Moscato, and anything sparkling. How do you relax after a hard day? I live about an hour and a quarter from work, so after the drive, I’m usually pretty relaxed by the time I get home. My husband makes sure our puppy is ready to greet me when I pull into the driveway. What is your most embarrassing moment? The day I fell off the back of the slides at Coney Island. I went up in the air (similar to a reverse pike), and then landed on my shoulders on the wooden floor!
The best visitor is one who… Appreciates fine food and is willing to try new things. I love to experiment, especially with desserts, so when a customer is excited to see their meal, it makes all your hard work worthwhile. What is your favourite food and wine match? With winter upon us, there is nothing better than a beautiful piece of duck and a delicious glass of Pinot. Your fantasy dinner party guests would be… My husband Amar, Thomas Keller, Barbra Streisand, Brian Lara, Marco Pierre White, Charlie Trotter and my closest friends. What would your last meal and drinks be? It would have to be a dégustation with matching wines, tasting all the things I love and finish with something sweet. It’s not cool, but I love… Kraft cheese sticks. If I weren’t a chef I would be… I’d love to be a diva for a day! Being onstage and singing in front of thousands of screaming fans would be incredible. What is your favourite holiday destination (outside of the Hunter, of course)? Next year, I’ll be visiting Cancun and Cuba. Spain, Italy and France are on my to-do list, to taste their different foods and ingredients and experience their unique cultures.
Your invitation to dine at Restaurant Botanica ...
The Hunter Valley’s freshest regional dining experience Dinner reservations Wed to Sun Evenings from 6pm • Private Degustation Lunches available by request Wed to Sun A passionate hospitality team led by owner/operators Mark and Belinda Stapleton Multi award winning wine list • Stunning rural vineyard and mountain views • Relaxed and comfortable dining ambience Abundant kitchen garden with rare and organic heirloom vegetables, fruits and herbs picked daily for our menu 28
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p. 02
6574 7229 a. Located at Spicers Vineyards Estate 555 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin 2320
MEET THE LOCALS MANDA DUFFY
NATIONAL CELLAR DOOR OPERATIONS MANAGER AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE LIMITED Manda attended Roseworthy Campus in the early 1990s before moving to the Hunter Valley and working a decade with Tamburlaine. She returned to Queensland to start her family (children, Nicolas, 10, and Ruby, 4), before returning to the Hunter Valley to work with Neil McGuigan. She now manages all four of the busy Australian Vintage Cellar Doors nationally. What is the best part of your job? Satisfaction in knowing that every member of your team is striving to ensure that every visitor gets everything they visited us for, and more. The best part is bouncing fresh ideas around. What is the worst part of your job? When you lose a member of your team, for better or worse. Always wish people the best and let the rebuilding commence. A typical day includes… Normal challenges that all regional tourism businesses face. Not many days are what I would call typical - more like a moving feast. What is your most memorable bottle ever tasted? I do remember the ’82 Penfolds Grange well - it may have had a lot to do with turning 40.
Wine Tasting L’s
What are you currently drinking at home? I love great Chardonnay, old Semillon and the classic style Hunter Valley Shiraz. We drink as much local wine as possible. How do you relax after a hard day? In the kitchen - unbelievable, I know! I love to cook and fiddle around, with a good glass close by. What was your most embarrassing moment? Nothing stands out - it must happen a lot! I spend a fair amount of time in airports and I’ve accidentally pushed through the toilet door to find I am in the men’s! The best customer is one who… Wants to taste something new, likes a laugh and is happy to share their experiences with you. What is your favourite food and wine match? I love to make my own gnocchi. I add a bit of sweet potato and a few sprigs of flash-fried sage, a dash of truffle oil and some fresh parmesan. Just add a glass of quality Chardonnay and all is great with the world. Your fantasy dinner party guests are… John Farnham (he sang to me when I was 8!), Beverly Hall (my grandmother I never met), Gauguin (for the colour), Billy Connolly (for the colourful language), Madame Cliquot (a great wine woman), Dawn French and Richard Branson. What would your last meal and drinks be? Something my kids made me, and a glass of La Grande Dame! It’s not cool, but I love… Dancing with my kids, oh… and ABBA! If you weren’t you, who would you like to be? Jancis Robinson, for getting on with it! If you weren’t in the wine industry, what would you do? I just love roses and perfume, so I’d be a rose farmer, for sure. What is your favourite product on offer at the moment? Tempus Two Wilde Chardonnay and the 2006 Bin 9000 McGuigan Semillon (the “World’s Best”), of course! What is your favourite holiday destination (outside the Hunter Valley, of course)? I did love Paris - corny, I know!
Start your day with a beginners course to provide you with all the basic skills to maximize the enjoyment and educational experience of tasting wine. The session will include information on how to make and assess wines. The perfect way to commence your tasting journey around the Hunter Valley. 10.30am everyday • Cost $10 • Bookings essential 4998 7402 Corner Broke & McDonalds Roads, Pokolbin • 02 4998 7402 • hunter@mcguiganwines.com.au hunter@mcguiganwines.com.au
FROM THE CELLAR WORDS BY LUKE CAMPBELL & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
As with winemaking, the cellaring, storage and serving of wine is based on a combination of science and art. Here, Luke Campbell of Vinified answers all your wine storage and service questions.
Over the Easter break, we were lucky enough to have a 2001 Ivanhoe Shiraz Pressings from our cellar. After we finished the wine, there was fine grit in the glass. Is this harmful? David Gee, Paterson, NSW Luke Campbell: Sediment deposited at the base of a wine bottle or glass is a good sign, and not a sign of any impurity. What is sediment? While quality red wines are being made, they are filtered with egg whites (among other things) after fermentation. The skins and seeds of the grapes are separated from the liquid, and egg whites are spread into the cask or fermentation vessel containing the juice. Over the course of several days, the loose materials suspended
in the liquid fall to the bottom of the cask attached to the egg whites. Finally, racking-filtration occurs, removing the residue from the wine. Then, as wine ages, any leftover particles begin to separate and settle down at the base of the bottle. These solid materials (leftover skins, seeds, stems, tannins, tartrates and other organic compounds) could be a sign of no filtration at all, but are more often simply a sign of an ageing bottle.
Does Hunter Valley Semillon fall into a ’hole’ like some of the great Rieslings of the world? Perry Fielding, Cremorne, NSW
Luke Campbell: In its youth, Hunter Valley Semillon is fresh and lean in the mouth, with floral and citrus aromatics. As it begins to age, the primary fruits fall away. When a Semillon is aged, it becomes weightier in the mouth and can show a sensual, honeyed toast, almost beeswax-like texture. Sometimes, there is a middle Are they harmful? In a ground (around word, no. Sediment in Remember, a wine wine is harmless, and cellar is more than a the ten-year mark) in the it is fine if you happen collection of bottles; wine’s journey, to drink them with the it’s a constant when it is neither wine. You can remove young and fresh the particles to avoid reminder of how nor aged and an unpleasant drinking your palate has honeyed. We call experience or seeing evolved. Enjoy! this the ‘hole’ into something floating in which Hunter the glass when serving to Valley Semillon can sometimes fall. the guests. To remove sediments in Riesling is another grape variety this wine, stand your bottle upright for can happen to. two to three hours prior to serving. Then simply decant the wine prior to Send your cellaring questions to consumption. luke@vinified.com.au.
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ith extensive experience in the wine industry and a great passion for wine, Luke is a qualified sommelier, a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) diploma student, and has completed numerous vintages in Australia.
Vinified provides individual and commercial wine enthusiasts a personal cellar management service that includes advice on appraisal, valuation, cellaring, liquidation and optimum drinking conditions. www.vinified.com.au p 03 9867 1375
Australia’s most exclusive cellar management service
WINE REVIEWS
2007 Brokenwood Stanleigh Park Semillon
RRP $45
2007 McGuigan The Shortlist Semillon
RRP $30
Cellar Door Only
Impressive luminous green hue colour. Fresh apple and lime characters on the nose with some bees wax and lanolin from bottle age, carrying through to the perfectly balanced palate. The fruit weight and texture belie the 10.5% alcohol such is the magic of Hunter Valley Semillon. Lemongrass fruit and toasty, honey characters evident. This is a new release with five gold medals.
McGuigan Semillons are some of our most awarded wines both nationally and internationally. This wine is a perfect example of why the Hunter is renowned as the premier region for Semillon in the world. This true Hunter style Semillon was fresh and crisp wine when young and is now developing complex honey and toast characters as it continues to age.
Food Match - Pairs perfectly with fresh oysters or simply grilled whiting fillets.
Food Match - Perfect match with seafood or poultry, suggest poached snapper fillets.
P 02 4998 7559 E sales@brokenwood.com.au
P 02 4998 4144 E hunter@mcguiganwines.com.au
Cellar Door Open Monday to Saturday 9.30am - 5pm Sunday 10am - 5pm
Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm
401-427 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN brokenwood.com.au
447 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN mcguiganwines.com.au
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WINE REVIEWS
2007 Hungerford Hill Epic Shiraz
RRP $55
This single vineyard Shiraz is sourced from one of the Hunter Valley’s oldest vineyards. Deeply coloured with savoury fruit aromas and intense flavours, fine tannins and good balance. This wine is drinking well now, however will cellar well for some time to come, and is available exclusively at Hungerford Hill Cellar Door. Food Match - Muse Restaurant‘s slow cooked Milly Hill lamb P 02 4998 7666 E wines@hungerfordhill.com.au Cellar Door Open Sunday to Thursday 10am - 5pm Friday & Saturday 10am - 6pm 2450 Broke Road POKOLBIN hungerfordhill.com.au
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2009 Margan Ripasso
RRP $35
Purple in colour and of medium bodied density this wine displays a subtle combination of spicy pepper, juicy berry and tar like characters which are typical of Hunter Shiraz coupled with nuances of violet and beetroot. It is well structured and shows great palate length. The long savoury tannin structure of the wine will ensure that this wine matures superbly over the next ten years. Food Match - Roasted free range quali with pancetta, fig chutney, cavolo nero and fregola - On the menu now in Margan Restaurant. P 02 6579 1372 E cellardoor@margan.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm 1238 Milbrodale Road BROKE margan.com.au
Tintilla Estate Old Parish 15 Year Aged Liqueur Shiraz
RRP $35
An ideal winter warmer! A rich, unctuous, complex, multilayered wine, fortified with 21 year old brandy, preserving the fruit flavours of our low yielding Shiraz. A unique blend of vintages going back over 15 years, barrel aged to allow the subtle changes of micro-oxygenation and evaporation to concentrate the flavours. Food Match - A perfect accompaniment for Asian dishes, or chilled as an aperitif. P 02 6574 7093 E info@tintilla.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 10.30am - 6pm 725 Hermitage Road POKOLBIN tintilla.com.au
2010 Tulloch Pokolbin Dry Red Shiraz
RRP $25
The Tulloch Pokolbin Dry Red is a medium bodied Shiraz grown in the Pokolbin region of the Hunter Valley. This famous label was first introduced in 1952. Vibrant plum in colour the wine exhibits soft black cherry flavours balanced by velvet tannins and delicate spicy oak. Enjoy this wine now or cellar medium term. Food Match - A perfect match with classic red meat dishes. P 02 4998 7580 E cellardoor@tullochwines.com Cellar Door Open 7 days 10am - 5pm Corner McDonalds & DeBeyers Road POKOLBIN tullochwines.com
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WINE REVIEWS
2010 First Creek Winemakers Reserve Shiraz
RRP $45
Ripe cherry and plum fruit on the nose, with delicate plum, black pepper and dark chocolate on the palate. French Oak delivers an intense layer of fruit and textural spice and silky tannins give great persistence and length. Best Red Wine of the Show at the 2011 NSW Wine Awards. Food Match - Richly flavoured casseroles, and roast red meats. P 02 4998 2992 E sales@firstcreekwines.com.au Cellar Door Open 7 days 9.30 - 5pm Daily winery tours 10.30am 600 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN firstcreekwines.com.au
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2010 Bimbadgen Estate Shiraz Viognier
RRP $25
A dark purple appearance with red tints, this Shiraz Viognier has aromas of red berries and cherries with some lifted violet perfume. Pretty red fruit flavours dominate the palate balanced with some savoury tobacco leaf flavours and sweet spices. Ripe fruit tannins and many fine oak tannins assist in the soft structure of this wine. Food Match - Versatile, the perfect accompaniment to a range of hearty red meat dishes. P o2 4998 4650 E cellardoor@bimbadgen.com.au Cellar Door Open Monday to Thursday 10am - 5pm Friday and Saturday 10am - 7pm 790 McDonalds Road POKOLBIN bimbadgen.com.au
2006 Ridgeview Generations Reserve Shiraz
RRP $50
Limited release
A complex wine produced from exceptionally ripe, hand-selected fruit from our “Effen Hill” vineyard. Deep purple/black hue. Aromas of blackberry, plums and spice. Concentrated cassis and spicy plum characters dominate the palate, with a hint of chocolate. A long finish, intense with integrated ripe fruit, balanced tannins and French oak nuances. Enjoy now or cellar to accentuate complexity and finesse. 2009 NSW Wine Awards Best Young Shiraz Trophy. Food Match - Ideal accompaniment to luscious steaks, lamb shanks and hearty winter casseroles.
2007 Wombat Crossing Vineyard Hermit’s Block Individual Paddock Shiraz RRP $30 The 2007 vintage conditions were the best experienced in a decade. A dry growing season with relatively mild conditions saw a harvest of clean, intensely flavoured grapes with good acid levels. Deep red with purple hues. Aromas of plum, violets, leather and spice. Savoury in style, showing loads of plum and spice flavours. The tannins are supple but firm, with good texture and length. Food Match - Any red meat dish or enjoy with cheese. P 02 6574 7357 E wines@wombatcrossing.net
Cellar Door Open Wednesday to Sunday 10am - 5pm
Cellar Door Open Saturdays 11am - 5pm Sundays 11am - 3pm. Call for an appointment for a private tasting.
273 Sweetwater Road POKOLBIN ridgeview.com.au
530 Hermitage Road POKOLBIN wombatcrossing.net
P 02 6574 7332 E wines@ridgeview.com.au
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Experience a new world of wines at First Creek Wines’ latest wine workshop, Hunter Valley vs The World. Taste leading Hunter Valley Shiraz and Chardonnay benchmarked against other major Australian and French regional wines. Compare a new release Hunter Valley Semillon to a ten year old Semillon to discover how it magically develops. These are serious wines for those seeking a broader wine experience. 11am-1pm Saturday and Sundays. $50pp bookings are essential. Guy, Jess and the team at the lovely Beltree have extended their trading days to lunch Thursday to Sunday & dinner Friday and Saturday nights.
600 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin P 02 4998 2992 W firstcreekwines.com.au
266 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin. P 02 6574 7216 W beltree.com.au
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has a beautiful range of ladies clothing, jewellery, handbags, fashion accessories and gifts. With everything a girl wants in the one store and more there’s a 100 reasons why you must visit when you’re in the Hunter Valley. Pokolbin Village Broke Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 6656
These newly released iPhone and iPad apps by Hunter Valley
Wine Country Tourism
make visiting the Hunter Valley a breeze. With so many things to see and do these handy apps offer users access to the most up to date information from wineries, restaurants, experiences, places of interest, accommodation and more with exceptional user experience. You can also discover your Hunter Valley ‘Wine Personality’ for your next visit! Download the apps for free at winecountry.com.au/plan/apps
Pukara Estate has released a great recipe book Flavours of Pukara Estate featuring simple and delicious recipes using the range of their award winning extra virgin olive oils, vinegars and gourmet products. Full of fresh ideas, you’ll discover a variety of ways to spice up your cooking by simply adding Pukara Estate products. Pick up your copy of Flavours of Pukara Estate at a Pukara Estate Tasting Room or online. 2347 Broke Road, Pokolbin & 1440 Denman Road, Muswellbrook. P 02 6547 1055 W pukaraestate.com.au
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www.emersonsatpokolbin.com
Food for sharing in a family friendly, relaxed setting with the majestic back drop of the Brokenback Ranges. The best use of local & Australian produce to inspire simple chef-crafted food. Unique, stylish wedding & function venue.
LUNCH THUR - TUE 12 - 3PM • DINNER FRI & SAT NIGHTS 6 - 9PM • CLOSED WED
477 Lovedale Rd, LOVEDALE P 4930 9139 E tatlercafe@gmail.com
mail@emersonsatpokolbin.com
FOOD
Clockwise from left: Andy & Janet Wright from The Cellar Restaurant and The Olive Tree Restaurant, Samantha & Emerson Rodriguez from Emerson’s At Pokolbin, Monika & Matt Dillow from The Verandah, Aleisha & Harry Callinan from Harry’s at Tatler.
WORDS BY MELINDA KELLY & IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
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FOOD Husband & wife restaurant teams can be either fantastically dynamic or a recipe for disaster.
I
n this the second instalment of Culinary Couples, Melinda Kelly speaks to Janet and Andy Wright, Monika and Matt Dillow, Samantha and Emerson Rodrigez and Aleisha and Harry Callinan. All are very successful Hunter Valley restaurateurs and have perfected the chef/husband and restaurant manager/ front-of-house wife balance. However, as these four couples know, running a restaurant successfully requires more than just good food and good service. It’s about the passion the couple has for each other, it is consistently producing amazing dining experiences, it is their dedication to their restaurants and to the Hunter Valley – not to mention, a sense of humour thrown in for good measure.
While they have a ‘no work talk after 8pm or on days off’ policy, it is not foolproof, and Andy says he has mastered the art of switching off: “I find the ride-on mower works. I can’t hear a thing when I’m on it!” he explains. Janet says living in the country is ideal and, when she gets the time, she loves nothing more than spending time with George, her dressage horse. “I really enjoy dressage. It’s a very difficult sport, both mentally and physically, and it really makes you switch off from everything else that is going on,” she says. Monika & Matt Dillow The Verandah Restaurant
Janet & Andy Wright The Cellar Restaurant & The Olive Tree Restaurant
Monika and Matt Dillow traded in the hustle and bustle of Sydney life to establish their restaurant and catering business, The Verandah Restaurant.
Janet and Andy Wright have owned and operated The Cellar Restaurant in Pokolbin for over ten years. Last year, they added The Olive Tree Restaurant at Wyndham Estate to their ventures.
“Sydney had always been home, but it wasn’t my ideal place to own a restaurant. When The Verandah was offered, I knew straight away this was where I was meant to be,” says Matt.
Andy, who worked with Robert Molines at the iconic The Cellar Restaurant for a number of years, says he realised his dream when the restaurant was up for sale and he and Janet bought it.
Monika initially had reservations about moving to the country, but has since grown to love the Hunter Valley and its lifestyle.
Their dedication to the local hospitality industry, genuine nature, and professionalism has cemented their place in the community and their enviable reputation.
Executive Chef, fixer, the logistics office, and the boss 50 per cent of the time.
When asked about their job titles, their tongue-in-cheek answers pretty much sum it up: “Now, let me see, that would be ‘General Dogsbody’ for me, although I recently put ‘Manager’ on an official document,” says Janet. Andy describes his role as, “Executive Chef, fixer, the logistics office, and the boss 50 per cent of the time.” For Janet and Andy, operating two very successful restaurants along with a catering business means that not bringing work home can be a challenge. “We do try to keep the two separate, but it rarely is the case. Despite working together, it is difficult to discuss ideas and plans in a work environment with constant interruptions. It is far easier in a relaxed environment at home with a glass of wine in hand,” says Janet.
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... I knew straight away this was where I was meant to be.
“I have made so many great friends here. The Hunter Valley is a very special place. It is very communityminded; people are so kind and supportive. I like the calmness of the Hunter Valley. And, as for working here, it is so social. I love it,” she says. While Monika manages the office and administration, Matt is a chef, runs the front of house, and manages the marketing and public relations for the business. “I do a bit of everything and really love doing most things, except paperwork, which I can’t stand,” Matt says. While running a business together and being parents to two young daughters is often very demanding and stressful, Monika and Matt say they are lucky to have staff who treat their business as their own, which helps enormously. “Although Matt works harder than ever, for me, running our own business means I can be flexible with our girls,” Monika says. The couple agree that the passion the region has for food and wine is a major influence on their lives.
HUNTER VALLEY
“Hunter Valley locals love great food and great wine. We are constantly surrounded by wonderful people,” says Matt. “It is a pleasure to work amongst other people and businesses that have the same philosophy.”
“We both agreed that we would close for Christmas every year to enjoy it with our children and our families. We spend as much time with the children as we possibly can. This is a freedom of owning our own business,” Emerson says.
Samantha & Emerson Rodriguez Emerson’s at Pokolbin
Aleisha & Harry Callinan Harry’s At Tatler
Samantha and Emerson Rodriguez are passionate about their restaurant, Emerson’s At Pokolbin, which, in 2011, won “Best New Restaurant” at the Restaurant and Catering Awards for Excellence.
After spending the last six years living and working in Singapore, Phuket and Manila, Aleisha and Harry Callinan have returned to the Hunter Valley to establish Harry’s At Tatler.
“The best thing about running a business together is that we both care about our business, so we both work really hard to make sure the restaurant is successful. In the first year, we managed to win a couple of awards, so we think we’re on the right track,” says Emerson.
“Working in Asia as an Executive Chef for Marriott Hotels and Resorts was a fantastic experience,” says Harry. “Our son, Wyle, was born in 2009 while we were living in Manila, and last year we decided to come home to raise our family.”
Emerson has been a chef for over 16 years and says opening his own restaurant in the Hunter We’re always Valley was a natural setting goals progression.
and striving
“I’ve worked for the best. in the Hunter Valley for over 10 years. I’ve made good friends here and you can’t beat the local camaraderie,” he says. “I love the fine food that I can serve and love having customers who appreciate the exceptional wines produced here, too.” Samantha says operating Emerson’s At Pokolbin has given them a challenge but also the freedom that comes with working for yourself. “We are always setting goals and striving for the best. Now that we are running this business together, we aren’t just aiming for personal goals – we are also setting our sights on professional goals together. It is a partnership in every sense of the word,” she says. The couple have two small children, Jazz and Charlize, who were, of course, a big consideration in committing to the restaurant together as a couple.
Cheese Factory
Harry, who has been a chef over 17 years, spent many years working here in the Hunter Valley with Robert Molines, and loves creating simple chef-crafted food sourced predominantly from the local area. “I love having access to worldclass produce and wine. We are ideally located close to the coast and Sydney, so really, the Hunter Valley has it all,” says Harry. “It’s wonderful to be back living and working in the Hunter Valley. This is where we met and where our careers began,” says Aleisha.
“Aleisha runs front-of-house and the business side of the restaurant. She is definitely the boss. Without her behind-the I love having scenes work, access to world- the show just doesn’t go on,” class produce Harry says.
and wine.
Both Aleisha and Harry say they couldn’t imagine not working together in a business they love. “We are best friends, so while we are always busy, it’s good that we can hang out together at work,” says Aleisha. Aleisha’s brother, Ben Handle, also works for Harry’s At Tatler as Head Chef - which technically makes this duo a trio.
Artisan Regional Cheesemakers Hunter Valley Cheese Company have been producing handmade preservative free cheeses on site for over 15 years. • Factory Viewing and Tastings daily • Award Winning • Preservative Free • Made with Vegetarian Rennet • Complimentary Cheese Talk daily 11am & 3pm • Factory Outlet Sales and Discounts
“Blessed are the Cheesemakers” HUNTER VALLEY CHEESE FACTORY & SHOP McGuigan’s Complex, 447 McDonalds Road Pokolbin P: 4998 7744 E: huntervalleycheese@westnet.com.au W: www.huntervalleycheese.com.au
AUSTRALIAN REGIONAL
australian regional Food Store & food Café store and café
Sourced from state totastings state, lunch all day • produce city open to coast, inland to island, 7 days • 9am-5pm @ range of clean, taste our fantastic the small winemakers centre green Australian produce. 426 mcdonalds road pokolbin hunter valley
Breakfast to 12 noon p •9am 4998 6800 e • australianregionalfood@westnet.com.au Lunch 12noon to 4.30pm w • www.australianregionalfood.com.au & produce tastings
Open 7 days 9am to 5pm @ the small winemakers centre 426 McDonalds Road Pokolbin Hunter Valley
P: 4998 6800 E: australianregionalfood@westnet.com.au W: www.australianregionalfood.com.au
Muse Kitchen boasts a more personal approach to food, wine and service delivering European inspired food that is season and produce driven. Muse Kitchen, located at the new Keith Tulloch Winery on Hermitage Road Pokolbin, is the newest venture for huband and wife team Troy and Megan Rhoades-Brown of Muse Restaurant and CafĂŠ. Lunch: Wed - Sun: 12noon - 3pm Available for private functions by request. Keith Tulloch Wines Lot 17 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin T: 02 4998 7899 muse@musedining.com.au E: muse@musedining.com.au
www.musedining.com.au www.musedining.com.au
LUNCH & DINNER 7 Days Peppers Guest House, Ekerts Road, Pokolbin NsW P: 02 4993 8999 E: restaurantsanctuary@peppers.com.au
www.restaurantsanctuary.com.au www.restaurantsanctuary.com.au
FOOD
A SERVING OF OUR BEST WORDS BY MELINDA KELLY IMAGES BY CHRIS ELFES
After almost 30 years dedicated to the Hunter Valley restaurant and hospitality industry, Bev Stuart of Bistro Molines is stepping back and taking a seat on the other side of the table. Since then, Bev has worked with them at Robert’s Restaurant and Bistro Molines, responsible for mentoring several dozen young front-of-house staff, passing on her wealth of experience and her passion for excellence in service. “It’s important to not lose the art of making our guest’s experience memorable and incredibly special! I have always wanted the young people I have trained to feel special too, so that they can understand the warmth they can emit to the guests,” Bev explained. During her career, she has seen a great transition in food and wine culture, one that she is thrilled to have been a part of.
A
master of service with a passion for professionalism, Bev Stuart is somewhat of a Valley icon, treating guests to wonderful dining experiences at some of the Hunter Valley’s most successful restaurants. As a young mum, she ran a catering business and café with friend, Jenny Auld. After a very busy year they decided that juggling motherhood and a full-time business was far too much, so they raised the white flag and sold the business.
PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT Bev Stuart, Sally Molines
“I remember we sold the catering business just before Easter, and I thought I would take time off to be with my husband and children. But a lovely friend kept calling, asking if I could just help him out over the busy Easter period. After saying no many times, I finally said yes and went to work with Robert and Sally Molines at The Cellar Restaurant. That was 25 years ago.”
“People are definitely more food and wine savvy,” she said. “Food has evolved so much, and wine is even more beautiful and exciting. It’s such an art to match the most beautiful wine to the most amazing meal. I love it!” According to Bev, working with Robert and Sally Molines has been the best working experience of her life. “When I started working with Robert, he told me, “I don’t expect much, just 150 per cent.” That was my benchmark, and I think I have given that to the business. It goes much deeper than that, though, as we are family and have such a deep and moving history. Robert has been the godfather to my children and was a dear friend to my beautiful late husband, Paul. I could not have been where I am today if it weren’t for the love and support of Robert and Sally,” she said.
I don’t expect much, just 150 per cent.
As for her love of the Hunter Valley, Bev says there’s no other place she’d rather be.
“Living and working in the Hunter Valley is beautiful, because there is a sense of community here that is so real. People pull together when the chips are down to help each other out. We have a great sense of pride in our products, and we are very aware of providing the best of the best for our visitors. We are a very proud lot, and I love that!”.
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lifestyle art
LIFE in art WORDS & IMAGES BY VIRGINIA MITCHELL
“
“
I’m surrounded by it. I live it. It’s my life.
W
atercolourist Dorothy Compton, reflecting on life in her tiny weatherboard church converted to a charming, lightfilled home and studio in Cessnock, contentedly points out that she lives what she loves. Art. An accomplished watercolour painter, Dorothy started painting when she found herself at home with four small children. That would be enough for most people to put away the brushes, but Dorothy viewed it as an opportunity to explore her creative side.
Opposite page The Jetty, watercolour 2012 This page, clockwise from top left: Bowl of Limes, watercolour 2010; Interior; Between the Rock 2011; Connections 2011; Dorothy Compton
“I had always drawn and been connected to art, something I inherited from my father, I suppose,” she says. Often, whilst her children were at school, she would set up her small easel on the kitchen table and get to work. Later, she had the opportunity to learn from well-known artist, Susan Sheridan, at the Workers’ Educational Association (WEA) in Newcastle, before gaining a Fine Art Diploma from TAFE Hunter Street Campus, Newcastle. “No one told me that watercolour is the most difficult medium,” she says breezily. “It worked for me because I could just pick it up and put it down, and it was less messy than having oil paints around small children!”
But it is clear that she has a natural affinity for this fluid, light-filled medium. Her paintings of flowers, luminous landscapes and even figurative works show a natural gift for colour and a confident approach in applying the paint. Dorothy has been a regular exhibitor at the celebrated ArtScrawl event that has taken over Pokolbin on many a June long weekend, and has also displayed works in many of the Hunter Valley’s famous wineries. She has also exhibited at the Australia Watercolour Institute and won many awards through various exhibitions. She currently teaches and exhibits from her studio home. The pretty, 100-year-old converted church she calls home has been through many incarnations, including a bookshop, before being rescued and lovingly converted to a space where art and life happily co-exist. “It was empty for years. Nobody wanted it. Not even I wanted it, until I walked inside and saw all the space,” Dorothy remembers. “I had been looking for a house with a garage I could use a studio. But then I found this, and everything changed.” She exchanged a conventional life for one that constantly inspires her and her students, to learn, create and share their love for art. Roses climb across trellises in the cottage garden. Paintings hang from the walls as light streams in through the windows. Students sit at long benches or stand at easels, absorbed in their art-making. Visitors sit on sofas, drink tea and converse. Art and life converge in one open and lovely space, in the quiet back streets of an Australian country town. Contact Dorothy about classes for adults and children, or to view current artworks for sale, at chezart27@gmail.com.
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A true ‘local’ cheese tasting experience. We are providores of our own products as well as other local and imported cheeses, gourmet foods and home to the Hunter Valley Gelato Company. Purchase our products either to take home or sit and indulge in store with a glass of local wine or beer. Smelly’s Kitchen delivers fresh French-style bread, gourmet pizzas, stuffed baguettes, burgers and chips. VIP cheese tastings available $3 per person.
STOP! No need to look any further. We stock all your local favourite cheeses as well - Smelly’s own, Binnorie Dairy, Hunter Belle plus other favourites from around the country and the globe. • A gourmand’s delight - you have to see it to believe it! Come on in, have a big snoop around. • Enjoy Merlo coffee with hand made Adora chocolate. • Hampers, Wedding Fromage Cakes and Gelato Cakes also can be ordered. Give us a call. • Conveniently open 7 days (closed Christmas Day).
Purchases over $50 receive a 10% discount. All VIP tastings must be pre-booked.
info@smellycheese.net.au
pvr@smellycheese.net.au
THE CELLAR RESTAURANT Awarded
• One Glass Rating (Recommended) 2008, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Fine Wine Partners Wine List of the Year Awards • One Glass Rating 2010, 2011 & 2012 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide
Chef/Owner Andrew Wright is passionate about sourcing the freshest and best quality local ingredients. His ever-changing menu showcases his talent for combining contemporary Australian fare with the influence of European traditions, presented in a simple and uncomplicated manner.
Open for lunch and dinner bookings recommended • Indoor and outdoor dining • Various menu options including fixed price, à la carte and degustation • Air-conditioned in summer • Open fire in winter • Fully licensed
“Such good food in such unpretentious surroundings is worthy of rural France.” THE LONDON SUNDAY TIMES
cuvee@petersonhouse.com.au
www.petersonhouse.com.au
www.smellycheese.net.au
The Cellar is a hot spot for locals and a must for new visitors to the region. Hunter Valley Gardens Village Broke Road, Pokolbin. Tel: 4998 7584 www.the-cellar-restaurant.com.au www.the-cellar-restaurant.com.au
WHAT’S ON JULY THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday July 1, 2012 It’s French Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO & no corkage. Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
JAZZ AT CATHERINE VALE Sunday July 1, 2012 Enjoy a great afternoon at Catherine Vale Wines with the sounds of the Preservation Jazz Band, fabulous food and wonderful wine. Music from noon til 3pm. No BYO please. 656 Milbrodale Road, Fordwich. P o2 6579 1334 W catherinevale.com.au
JUNGLE JUICE RACE DAY Tuesday July 3, 2012 Wine Country’s premiere race day is here. The 2012 Jungle Juice Race Day is a day to socialise, have loads of fun and enjoy the best of country racing. Grab your friends and for a sensational day at the track. Racecourse Road, Cessnock. P o2 4961 1573 W winecountryraceclub.com.au
SIMPLY SHIRAZ Saturday July 7 & Sunday July 8 2012 Enjoy a weekend of Hunter Valley Shiraz, comforting winter foods, country music, blazing fire-pits and more at Simply Shiraz. 10am - 4pm. Entry $10pp. 1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7088 W oakvalewines.com.au
CHRISTMAS IN JULY AT RIDGEVIEW Saturday July 7, 2012
ENJOY WINTER IN THE HUNTER VALLEY BASTILLE DAY Friday July 13 to Sunday July 15, 2012
Celebrate Christmas in July with RidgeView’s three course dinner full of Christmas cheer including seafood, roast meats and traditional RidgeView Christmas pudding. $70pp including matching wines. 273 Sweetwater Road, Pokolbin. P o2 6574 7332 W ridegview.com.au
Celebrate Bastille Day at Esca Bimbadgen. Executive Chef Ebonnie Newby has created an inspired 6 course degustation menu of fine French cuisine. $95pp/$125pp with matching wine. Members $85pp/$115pp with matching wine. 790 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 4666 W bimbadgen.com.au/bimbadgen_events
CHRISTMAS IN JULY AT ESCA Saturday July 7 to Tuesday July 31, 2012 (excluding 13 -15 July)
KEITH TULLOCH WINE WINTER WORKSHOP Saturday 28 July, 2012
Embrace the frosty weather for a mid-winter festive feast celebrating Christmas in July at Esca Bimbadgen. Executive Chef Ebonnie Newby has created a Christmas inspired menu with a distinct local style. $60pp/$75pp with wine match. Members $55pp/ $70pp with wine match. 790 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 4666 W bimbadgen.com.au/bimbadgen_events
An afternoon & evening of wine blending, cane burning and a barbeque at Keith Tulloch Wine. Rug up & join Keith to learn the secrets of wine blending, move out for a bonfire of vine canes and finish with dinner. Bookings essential. Corner Hermitage & Deasy’s Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7500 W keithtullochwine.com.au
Afternoon delight at Tower Estate
F
r om its early beginnings in the 17th Century, high tea has always been synonymous with high society and class. Now, in the 21st Century, Tower Lodge offers an opportunity to indulge in this long standing tradition, with its own High Tea every Saturday and Sunday. Set amongst the luxurious surrounds of the Tower Lodge Lounge and Dining room, you will be treated to a decadent High Tea experience. Enjoy an international selection of teas and coffees along with a sumptuous array of both savoury and sweet treats to tempt every taste. High Tea is available Saturday and Sunday from 2.00pm to 5.00pm. Indulge yourself with award winning food at this intimate and unique venue.
$42 per person or $56 for Champagne High Tea
Halls Road, Pokolbin. www.towerestate.com www.towerestate.com Bookings are essential: (02) 4998 7022
WHAT’S ON JULY WINERY RUNNING FESTIVAL Sunday July 22, 2012 Whether you are a serious marathon runner or out for a social fun run this event has something for everyone. Staged in the heart of Hunter Valley wine country the event includes seven individual events from a marathon to a 2km run/walk for children. Hunter Valley Gardens, Broke Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4943 8138 W huntervalleymarathon.net
AUGUST WINTER “IN SEASON” DINNER Friday August 3, 2012 Let the crackling fire warm you while Head Chef Donna Hollis creates a sumptuous four course dinner using the best seasonal produce and vegies from RidgeView’s organic garden. Complimentary bubbles and canapés. $65pp/$85pp with matching wines. BYO welcome & RidgeView wine at cellar door prices. 273 Sweetwater Road, Pokolbin. P o2 6574 7332 W ridegview.com.au
THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday 5 August, 2012 It’s Food from the Land Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO & no corkage. Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
CLEAR IMAGE HUNTER VALLEY WINE SHOW 2012 CELEBRATION LUNCH Friday August 17, 2012 The Clear Image Hunter Valley Wine Show is a true regional wine show awarding the best wines of the region. This luncheon at Lindeman’s announces & celebrates the winners of 2012. The luncheon is catered by a well-known local restaurant with 2012 gold medal winning wines served with lunch, and a celebrations bar afterwards. After the huge success of last year’s event it is advisable to book early. Numbers are limited and bookings are essential. RSVP by Friday August 3, 2012. Dress is Lounge Suit. P o2 4991 4533 E info@winehuntervalley.org.au
POOCH PICNIC Sunday August 19, 2012 A dog friendly, fun filled family picnic day at Pepper Tree Wines, raising much needed funds for Hunter Animal Rescue. No BYO. 86 Halls Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7539 W peppertreewines.com.au
LINDEMAN’S BEN EAN REUNION DINNER Saturday August 25, 2012 A casual evening for past employees and Lindeman’s followers to celebrate 100 years of Lindeman’s. Bring along a bottle of your favourite Lindeman’s wine. $65pp. 119 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4993 3705 E michelle.tracey@tweglobal.com
SEPTEMBER TINTILLA LONG LUNCH Saturday 8 September, 2012 Join Tintilla Estate for their annual Tintilla Long Lunch. Set on the deck on the Cellar Door this exclusive event is not to be missed. Bookings essential. 725 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin. P o2 6574 7093 W tintilla.com.au
www.travertinewines.com.au www.travertinewines.com.au
Picturesque Roman tiled buildings alongside mature European trees make the setting absolutely perfect for wine tasting, weddings or just a picnic stop. Travertine Wines is the new name for the vineyard formerly known as Centurion. Located just off Hermitage Road on Old North Road at Pokolbin, the newly named Travertine Wines takes up the limestone soils influence that has produced so many fine wines in previous years. Owner Graham Burns says “We want to identify more with the special characteristics that our range of varieties and this hilly location can offer. Travertine is just a unique offering and a must for any Hunter visitor.” Planted twenty years ago, the old vines including Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Pinot Noir yield luscious fruit.
More recently planted Shiraz, Tannat and Chambourcin reflect the vineyard’s direction towards distinctive reds. The 2011 Verdelho was a Hunter Show gold medal winner and in the Winestate Top 40 in 2011. Instantly recognisable are the rolling hillside gardens that surround the vineyard blocks. Picturesque Roman tiled buildings alongside mature European trees make the setting absolutely perfect for wine tasting, weddings or just a picnic stop. No trip to the Hunter is complete without a visit to Travertine – to see its gardens, taste its fine wines and meet the ever helpful Travertine team.
110 Old North Road, Pokolbin NSW (1km East of Hermitage Road) • 0421 289 905 • Cellar Door (Fri/Sat/Sun) 10am-4pm
WHAT’S ON SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday September 9, 2012
SIMPLY SEMILLON Saturday October 6 & Sunday October 7, 2012
It’s Saffron, Garlic and Olive Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO & no corkage.
A weekend of fabulous Hunter Valley Semillons, seafood, live music and more at Oakvale Wines. Entry $10pp includes a glass and five tasting tickets.
Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
HUNTER CHEFS & CO ANNUAL FOOD FIGHT Monday September 10, 2012 Watch four of the Hunter’s best chefs take on four of Sydney’s finest chefs (Justin North, Warren Turnbull, Matt Kemp & Colin Fassnidge) at the 3rd annual Hunter Chefs & Co Food Fight. Hosted by Peter Everett the day includes a charity auction to raise funds for the prestigious Brett Graham Award. Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley, Lovedale Road, Pokolbin. E mail@hunterchefs.com.au W hunterchefs.com.au
HYMNE A PIAF at KEITH TULLOCH WINE Saturday September 22, 2012 A preview of the 100 year anniversary of Edith Piaf, performed by chanteuse Caroline Nin. The cabaret style evening is being held in the winery with Muse Kitchen serving a three course meal paired to wines from Keith Tulloch Wine. Bookings essential.
1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7088 W oakvalewines.com.au
THE VERANDAH RESTAURANT LOCALS NIGHT Sunday October 14, 2012 It’s German Night at The Verandah Restaurant. 6:30pm start with complimentary canapés and bubbles followed by a five course tapas style degustation. $50pp. BYO & no corkage. Palmer’s Lane, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7231 W verandahrestaurant.com.au
OPERA IN THE VINEYARDS Saturday October 13, 2012 Celebrate the world’s greatest opera composer, Giacomo Puccini. Featuring the stunning voices of two sopranos and two tenors: Amelia Farrugia and Sharon Prero, regarded as two of the best sopranos in the country; together with the gifted Italian tenor Carlo Barricelli and the brilliant Aldo Di Toro.
CELLAR DOOR Come enjoy our fine range at the acclaimed Pokolbin cellar door - a breath-taking contemporary space designed to complement your Tempus Two experience. Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting Experience Take a guided stroll through the Tempus Two vineyard and then experience a structured tasting with one of our friendly cellar door team.
When Where PRICE
10.30am everyday Departing from the Tempus Two Cellar Door $5 p/p - complimentary for Pewter Members
Bookings essential on Weekends and Public Holidays
Wyndham Estate, Dalwood. P 1800 677 366 W operainthevineyards.com.au
Corner Hermitage & Deasey’s Road, Pokolbin. P o2 4998 7500 W keithtullochwine.com.au
see all the Events on each weekend and every month in the hunter valley on the next page
Private Tastings available by appointment & groups welcome by appointment. Bookings essential. OPENING HOURS 10am - 5pm, 7 days (closed Christmas Day & Good Friday) TEMPUS TWO cellar door Cnr Broke & McDonalds Rds, Pokolbin (PO Box 209 Cessnock 2325)
P: 02 4993 3999 F: 02 4993 3988 E: info@tempustwo.com.au
www.tempustwo.com.au ABN: 78 052 179 932
WHAT’S ON OCTOBER
EACH WEEKEND
EACH MONTH
BURNING OF THE CANES LUNCHEON Saturday October 20 & Sunday October 21, 2012
HUNTER VALLEY vs THE WORLD
WINE EDUCATION, TOUR & TASTING Last Friday of each month
Taste the Spirit of the Vine at Whispering Brook with slow cooked food prepared on open BBQ pits infused with the aromas of vineyard canes. “Burning of the Canes” is accompanied by traditionally cooked meats and accompaniments. It marks the end of winter and pruning and welcomes in the start of the new season. Whispering Brook, Rodd Street, Broke. P 02 9818 4126 W whispering-brook.com
Experience a new world of wines at First Creek Wines’ latest wine workshop. Taste leading Hunter Valley Shiraz and Chardonnay benchmarked against other major Australian and French regional wines. Compare a new release Hunter Valley Semillon to a ten year old Semillon to discover how it magically develops.
Go on a guided tour of Hungerford Hill’s underground winery and sample wines till in the tank. Learn the characteristics of each wine while enjoying a range of canapés matched to enhance your tasting pleasure. Limited to 12 people. Bookings essential.
Serious wines for those seeking a broader wine experience.
2450 Broke Road, Pokolbin.
11am-1pm Saturday & Sundays. $50pp. Bookings essential.
W hungerfordhill.com.au
600 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin. P 02 4998 2992 W firstcreekwines.com.au
P 02 4998 7666
TALLAVERA GROVE VINEYARD TOUR Last Saturday of each month Take a guided walk through the beautiful vineyards of Tallavera Grove for some amazing photo opportunities and the chance to get an inside view on the life and times of a working vineyard. $5 pp. Bookings highly recommended.
Keep an eye out for your copy of
Spring Hunter Valley Breathe
due out late September
749 Mount View Road, Mount View. P 02 4990 7535 W tallaveragrove.com.au
O A K VA L E
ENTR Y ON
IS PROUD TO PRESENT
LY $10
* PER P ERSON
6 & 7 OCTOBER 2012 A weekend of fabulous Hunter Semillons, seafood, live music and more! VENUE: OAKVALE WINES 1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin NSW // TICKETS AVAILABLE AT THE GATE www.oakvalewines.com.au // *Includes glass and 5 tasting tickets. CALL 02 4998 7088 OR VISIT www.OAKVALEWINES.com.au
brochures flyers wine labels advertisements billboards posters logos signs letterheads business cards
menus
illustrations with compliments envelopes booklets photographic styling winelists e-blasts packaging stickers lino prints newsletters invitations magazines postcards certificates presentation folders pull-up banners websites calenders prospectus
sally sneddon graphic design
4 alfred close east maitland p 4934 4781 e sally@ssgd.com.au sally@ssgd.com.au
www.ssgd.com.au www.ssgd.com.au
www.woodlandolives.com.au
NEAR TO BROKE CELLAR DOORS AND RESTAURANTS
Fourteen modern self catering suites or cottages Pool, Spa, Kids Play Gym Orchard, Chicken Run, Alpaca Feeding BBQ at each cottage and at the Poolside Cabanas
Open for Lunch Friday, Saturday & Sunday 12pm - 3pm.
INHOUSE FUNCTION CENTRE Gift Shop with Starline yarn and handknit clothing
1100 Milbrodale Rd, BROKE
6579 1081
www.starlinealpacas.com.au www.starlinealpacas.com.au
finewines@vindenestate.com.au www.vindenestate.com.au
TOP LEFT Keith Tulloch Wine Inaugural Autumn Workshop - Vintage Appraisal 2012. TOP RIGHT Mark Gottaas, Sarah Crowe, Noreen Gottass & Geoff Kreiger get into the swing of things at the Bimbadgen Golf Day. BOTTOM RIGHT A New Generation Pop-up Bar at Ambush Gallery. BOTTOM LEFT Adam Bell & Susan Fraizer relaxing after the Whispering Brook Olive Long Table Luncheon.
OUT & ABOUT
in the Hunter Valley Top LEFT Cheers - musicians enjoying a wellearned break at Game On hosted by The Verandah Restaurant. TOP RIGHT Iain Riggs and the Sam Smith & Sons Sales Team at a vintage visit to Brokenwood Wines. BOTTOM RIGHT Steve Goodchild checking some bins during olive harvest at Pukara Estate. BOTTOM LEFT Media enjoying a gnocchi making class at a recent Hunter Valley media famil. Photo by Sue Murray.
50
BREATHE winter 2012
Andreas Breitfuss - Tower Estate “Preparing to conquer Everest”
CHRIS ELFES PHOTOGRAPHY POKOLBIN
|
NEWCASTLE
|
SYDNEY
www.chriselfesphotography.com | 0413 805 222 | elfesphoto@bigpond.com.au
behind every taste there’s a tale…
Discover over 150 years of winemaking experience with a trip to Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley winery. We are proud to share our rich heritage by taking you on a journey beyond the Cellar Door – explore our red and white winemaking facilities and see first hand the old oak vats and historic red cellar, still in full operation. Visit the original iron bark hut built by Edward Tyrrell and then let Andrew, Murray and the Cellar Door team guide you through as tasting of our award winning wines including the: • Vat 1 Semillon - Australia’s most awarded white wine. • Vat 9 Shiraz - our flagship shiraz and rated 97 Points in the 2012 James Halliday Australian Wine Companion. • Johnno’s Semillon – sourced from 102 year old vines and made using the original basket press. • Our range of Single Vineyard semillons, chardonnays and shiraz – all scoring over 93 Points in the 2012 James Halliday Australian Wine Companion VISIT US: 1838 Broke Road, Pokolbin NSW 2320 CONTACT US: Ph: (02) 4993 7000 Email: info@tyrrells.com.au info@tyrrells.com.au www.tyrrells.com.au www.tyrrells.com.au TyrrellsWines
CELLAR DOOR: Monday to Saturday, 9am - 5pm & Sunday, 10am - 4pm Winery tour daily 10.30pm, cost $5 per person, no bookings required Private group tour & tasting, cost $8 per person, min 15pp, bookings essential Wine tasting masterclass, Saturdays 11am - 12pm, cost $20 per person, bookings essential