Trend Journal Hyewon Jeong FASM 215 Professor. Monika
Table of Contents 01. Glam Lesiure 02. Denim
03. In the Clear 04. Reimagination of Trench
05. Something White Ta b l e o f C onten ts
06. Spring Whimpsy
07. Topstitch Design
08. The Big Collar
s ent t n f Co Table o
Table of Conten ts
Fendi
Glam Lesiure
Calvein Klein
Valentino
Athleisure is everywhere nowadays. It has been one of biggest trend of 2010s and there are more looks are showed in both on the street and fashion shows as time goes by. According to the video of “Athleisure: A Workout Look for Every Occasion” at The Wall Street Journal, athleisure look is the fashion that is designed for workout or any athletic activity and it could be worn in other settings like the workplace or even casual/social occasions. I remember when I wondered about the athleisure look if it could be a trend in the world when it came out. However, the fashion of the athleisure look has evolved to more versatile, comfortable and fashionable. This resulted in the athleisure look coming into our wardrobes and becoming everyday clothing. Athleisure in the 2018 season transformed to Glam Leisure. It has started from the 2018 Resort collection that designers give glamorous sporty looks. The look of Valentino attracts people’s eyes, where Pierpaolo Piccioli showed The Get Down-inspired track suits, dresses, and strappy sandals with athletic ankle socks. Many other brands, such as Prada, Agnona, Givenchy and Gucci etc. also showed feminine athleisure looks. In S/S 2018 season, the athleisure trend has continued with glamorous, feminine designs and this changed the notion of sportswear; color, material and details in the athleisure look of Valentino, Jasper Conran, Sportmax, Fendi and Calvin Klein. They also focused on technology and tech fabrics in translucent and waterproof function that are applied to ladylike silhouettes in athleisure pieces. Personally, the athleisure trend looks like it is almost hitting its peak. From sportswear, it has evolved to more of a glam leisure look. Since the style of athleisure meets the life style of people that like to work out or do activities, this trend will exist for a while. However, it is hard to predict the next chapter of the athleisure look because a lot of them have already come out.
Sportsmax
Jasper Conran
WGSN
Denim
Unravel
Christian Dior
WGSN
Denim was definitely one of the most popular fabric choices for S/S 18. There were a variety of denim looks in this season: from very clean and tailored looks, to playful looks with underwear styling. WGSN stated the use of denim as “A strong, feminine style is noted in head-to-toe ensembles that nod to 1980s power-dressing, while experimentation with volume sleeves and soft fabric combinations add a softer touch.” Denim in the latest collection of Dior catches eyes. Maria Grazia Chiuri has tried to appeal to Millennials for the last two seasons. Denim is featured again in this season, which is incorporated with 1970s patch work denim, detailed embroidery, painstaking piecing and gorgeous tailoring. Overall, Dior’s denim looks are casual but sleek at the same time. Models are wearing denim hats, boxy patch-worked denim pants, and double-breasted denim jackets that match. However, Dior is not the only one who used denim in their collection. Stella McCartney adopted the 1980s ‘trashy’ sense into her collection. Acid-wash denim, slouchy utility jackets and cargo pants in highlighter pink, green and blue show up in the collection. The Unravel brand suggests modern tastes and trends through deconstructed denim remastered with power shoulders on trucker jackets, spliced leather and denim combinations, and denim waistbands worn as belts. Denim has been a very big material in the fashion world, and the trend of denim has changed a lot, each brand has a different interpretation that goes along with their brand identity. Especially, this season’s denim is interpreted in very different ways. Some brands got inspired from 70s, 80s or even 90s fashion trends and they have weaved them the collection. Also, other brands are suggesting more modern interpretations that are new and fresh. Enjoy the unique aesthetic of denim by different brands in this Spring/Summer 2018.
Stella McCartney
Unravel
Elie Sabb
Y/Project
In the Clear Jourden
The recent trend of transparency in fashion has started from the see-through looks from 2008-2010. See-through clothing is any garment made with lace, mesh, or sheer fabric that allows the wearer’s body or undergarments to be seen through its fabric. Originally, see-through fashion appeared in the 18th century in Europe. At that time, see-through garments were worn over opaque undergarments, or an underdress. The trend of sheer fashion started in designer clothing from the season of 2009. This trend causes illusion on skin tone by exposing flesh. Sheer fabrics including chiffon, georgette, and gauze are semi-transparent thin clothes. Some fine-denier knits are used in tights and stockings, dancewear, and lingerie. Also, it can be used in tops, pants, skirts, dresses, and gowns. “Mesh, web, net fabric, or woven pieces with with a large number of closely spaced holes are frequently used for modern sports jerseys.� According to the WWD, transparencies prevailed throughout the 2019 spring season. Designers had a lot to show for spring, favoring skin-revealing transparencies in everything from net overlays to frothy tulle. Altuzarra and Jourdan used net to reveal transparency, and Giambattista Valli, Y/Project, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Loewe, Elie Saab etc. used stitching, patterns, embellishments in their clear looks. The direction of transparent clothing is balancing the clear fabrics with overlays and embellishments. Revealing skin in fashion was shocking trend at first, but it has combined well along with the lingerie trend. The transparent trend will be staying in the fashion industry for a while. Moncler
Giambattista Valli
Altuzarra
WWD
The reimagination of Trench Designers are constantly reimagining the trench coat, and for spring, the classic staple has officially been the key piece in many collections. According to The Trend Book by Nick Foulkes, a trench coat is a waterproof, heavy-duty raincoat made of cotton gabardine drill, leather, or poplin. It generally has a removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and the classic versions come in various lengths ranging from just above the ankles (the longest) to above the knee (the shortest). The trench coat was originated from the clothing of British Army officers. The traditional trench coat is double-breasted with 10 front buttons with wide lapels, a storm flap, and pockets that button close. Many people think of Burberry trench as a staple. Historically, the trench coat has been a classic and iconic piece of fashion. The trench could be updated endlessly, and there are a lot of variations in fashion of the trench coat so far. In Valentino RTW Spring 2018 collection, they showed feminine and athleisure looks of the trench coat. The trench with cargo pockets on both sides of the gun flap with a muted pink color that is matched with a light pink dress was one of the best pieces in the season. Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2018’s trench is combined with three quarters of red jacket based on the deconstructed clothing trend. Loewe experimented with the trench with fringes on the bottom that looks like a rice plant. Celine’s trench almost looks like a parachute: the classic design of the trench coat looks like a cape the under jacket and cape are connected on the bottom. In addition, there are lots of designers experimenting with the trench, such as Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen, and Nina Ricci etc. Many designers will experiment with trench coats in the future.
Table of Content s
Valentino
WWD
CĂŠline
Bubbery Pinterest
Loewe
Something White Chanel
When you think of color white, mostly people reminds that is the color of Bride. However, white is not just a color for bride. In ancient era, white is a symbol of purity, chastity, and sacrifice. It was used as the color of royalty in mid-century France and it became a symbol of modernity and simplicity in 20th century. “According to surveys in Europe and the United States, white is the color most often associated with perfection, the good, honesty, cleanliness, the beginning, the new, neutrality, and exactitude.” In the season of spring 2018, many designers drag the white into the runway with lots of different fabrics and textures. Chanel, Unravel and Moncleir playing the white with a transparency trend. Chanel adopted clear plastics to their white feminine textured dress while Mocler experimented with ballet inspiration with textures. Dior and Sacai’s designs of dresses are also about the transparency and textures. Unravel’s white dress is mixture of white chiffon and denim, and Saint Lauren exploring more with volume and cutting of the fabric. Thom Browne showed us the experimental spirit with furry and puffy textures, which looks like couture fashion not a ready to wear. White color is one of the most basic colors in our lives and designers use the color for not just every spring/summer but also fall/winter season. In other words, a white color is an all year-round color. Especially in this spring season, designers are introducing the color white with latest trend in the runway, such as textures, denim and transparency, etc. I am expecting that every season, there will be the white garments that is combined with latest trends like this season.
Sacai
Saint Lauren
Unravel
Thom Browne WWD
Moncler
Spring Whimsy Kieran Kilgallon Céline
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Alexander McQueen
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Chloé
Louis Vitton
Spring has always been the season of blooming flowers. I remember that every season there was the floral trend especially in spring and designers are weaving a strong sense of the femininity to floral patterns through the decorative summer dresses with ditsy florals in the sweetest of palette. Botanical prints became more adorable and detailed from the Garden Party trend of Pre-Summer, which makes us to feel the nice warmth for spring. “Pair sprigged blooms with picnic plaids and polka-dots to play into the whimsical nature of this look.” Even not just florals, designers experimented with lots of frills and pastels to formulate the extra femininity to the runway. A structured, an opulence, laces, embroideries and prints are the keys of spring whimsy romantic pieces. The accent for shoulders and a bodice is made of delicate details, and railing hemlines and inserted volume introduce the whimsy. Ruffles, tiered panelling and innovative approaches to the bodice expanded the femininity of the garment. There are lots of fun in playing with not just floral but also volume, frills, laces and embroidery etc.
WGSN
Topstitch Design SportMax
A stitch is a single turn or loop of thread, or yarn. Stitches are the fundamental elements of sewing, knitting, embroidery, crochet, and needle lace-making, whether by hand or machine. Topstitching is a sewing technique where the line of stitching is designed to be seen from the outside of the garment, either decorative or functional. Decorative topstitching technique is adopting to runway in the season of spring/summer 2018. The contrast of stitches and fabrics give visual rhythms to minimal silhouettes. This technique showed up especially in denim and cotton fabrics. Kenzo La Collection Memento showed lots of denim pieces with white top stitching as wells as SportMax, Simon Miller and Mugler. The top stitching used as a design element not just for fitted the design but also played with volume. Rejina Pyo’s pieces are playing with brown stiches on a white denim jacket and Aquilano Rimondi did black stiches on the white jacket. Besides, Temperley, Versus Versace and Phillip Lim includes top stitching clothes in their runway. Now, topstitching is not just a seam but as a contemporary design element that is a strong and decorative. I have seen topstitching garments on the street but not like whole collection on the runway. Espeically, Kenzo La Collection’s most pieces have topstitching designs on the looks. It is very interesting to see those stitching elements on the garment differentiated by aesthetics of designers.
Kenzo La Collection Kenzo La Collection
Rejina Pyo
WGSN
Simon Miller
The Big Collar Christopher Kane
Simone Rocha
“A collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the neck and it is differentiated from other necklines such as revers and lapels, by being made from a separate piece of fabric.� Traditionally, collars are mostly varied of small parts like ornaments and decoration. However, in modern fashion industry there are more experimental collars are showing up on the runway. Especially, in this season, collars are intentionally oversized that catches eyes through contrasting materials, prints, colors and textures. You can see exaggerated proportions add interest to jackets, shirts and must-have trench coats.
Burbbery
Joseph Jos Simone Rocha
WGSN
References Allende, M. (2017, October 11). In the Clear. Retrieved from http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-trends/spring-2018-trend-clear-transparent-11025187/ “Athleisure: A Workout Look for Every Occasion.” The Wall Street Journal. May 05, 2015. https://www.wsj.com/video/athleisure-a-workout-look-for-every-occasion/D0174829-3288-40F1-9E12-0F420E38AA9A.html. Best of Denim S/S 18 Collections. (2017, October 06). Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75216/page/11 Foulkes, Nick (2007). The Trench Book. Assouline. ISBN 2759401634. Fritton, N., & Pieri, K. (2017, September 06). The Top 14 Trends from the Fall 2017 Runways. Retrieved from http://www.harpersbazaar. com/fashion/fashion-week/news/g8537/fall-2017-fashion-trends/?slide=24 Key Trends S/S 18: Apparel Preview. (2017, October 03). Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75120/page/6 Mower, S. (2017, September 26). Christian Dior Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/christian-dior Park, M. (2017, October 19). Key Trends S/S 18: Young Women’s Apparel, Footwear & Accessories – Reigning Romance. Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75377/page/1 See-through clothing. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/See-through_clothing#cite_note-2 Sheer fashion trend: 2009 & 2010. Retrieved from http://www.fashionising.com/trends/b--see-through-clothes-sheer-fashion-953.html Shang, A. (2017, October 20). Topstitch Design Is One of the Biggest Spring 2018 Fashion Trends. Retrieved from http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-trends/spring-2018-trend-uncommon-thread-11031887/ Stitch (textile arts). (2017, January 07). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stitch_(textile_arts)#cite_ref-Picken_1-0 The Big Collar. (2017, September 20). Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74952/page/1 The Biggest Trends of the Resort 2018 Collections. (2017, June 26). Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/fashion-runway-resort-2018-trends Trench Lessons. (2017, October 06). Retrieved from http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-trends/trenchcoats-spring-2018trend-11021615/ Topstitch. (2017, October 07). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topstitch Watkins, H., & Wharton, I. (2017, October 24). Springtime Whimsy. Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/75394/page/1