A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 5, No. 2

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION MAR & APR 2017

Vol 5 NO 2 €3.50

Explore the world Take off and fly to 265 destinations worldwide. With KLM and its partners, you can explore your world - klm.com

The most beautiful spring garden in the world Keukenhof is the place to enjoy the millions of flowering tulips, daffodils and other bulb flowers this spring. A day full of experiences that you will not forget very quickly. The most beautiful spring garden in the world offers a unique scent and colour experience, over 20 spectacular flower shows, surprising inspirational gardens and many exciting events.

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www.keukenhof.nl

IAMEXPAT FAIR AMSTERDAM Westergasfabriek March 25th, 2017 10:00–17:00 For global citizens with local needs The IamExpat Fair is a truly international event designed to support the expat community in the Netherlands.

Attend free workshops and connect with businesses in: Career, Education, Housing, Expat Services, Family & Kids, Health & Leisure.

BOOK YOUR FREE TICKET AT WWW.IAMEXPATFAIR.NL

Address Westergasfabriek, Pazzanistraat 37, 1014 DB, Amsterdam · Public transport Tram 10 (stop Van Limburg Stirumstraat) or Bus 21 (stop Van Hallstraat) · Parking QPark, Van Bleiswijkstraat 8, 1051 DG, Amsterdam · More practical info on amsterdam.iamexpatfair.nl/visitor-info

Financial Coaching

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 5 N0 2 MAR & APR 2017

WHAT I ‘ATE’ ABOUT AMSTERDAM

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE The city’s most popular chefs dish out their secrets on the best places to eat in Amsterdam, from dumplings to grilled meat platters and, of course, dessert.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Flower season is bringing a rainbow of colours to Amsterdam, while King’s Day on 27 April paints the town orange – plus Body Art at the TropenMuseum, and much, much more.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief, A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch visits the green Plantage and ARTIS Royal Zoo, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.63 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

There was a time when the only way to get good food in Amsterdam was to splurge for a Michelin-starred restaurant that would set you back at least 200 guilders – about as much in euros. I am speaking about 25 years ago.

All the rest was ‘eetcafé’ quality, which literally translates into ‘eating café’. Think of large plates of fries with a choice of beef, salmon or lamb chops, and the cursory leaf of lettuce with sliced cucumber and carrot shreds. A chef in those days was typically a person who hadn’t been smart enough to escape his student job after all his friends had graduated.

Enter, in the second half of the noughties, a generation of professional food lovers with huge ambitions. They wanted to avoid the tedious career path of the typical chef: bullied around the kitchen for years, and working for the glory of others.

These new kids opened their own restaurants from the start. Typically in defunct industrial buildings, offices or disaffected schools, in order to avoid the ridiculous rents downtown. Hotel de Goudfazant, Baut, Dauphine and Rijsel are early examples which are still around and have become classics of the Amsterdam restaurant scene.

Today, as we argue in our cover story starting on page 10, a third wave of culinary entrepreneurs is taking over, with the skills of the old chefs and the imaginations of the new ones. Allergic to the formality of the typical Michelin-starred establishments, they settle for no less than the best when it comes to what’s on their plates.

Places like De Scheepskameel, Breda, BAK and Gebr. Hartering combine an informal atmosphere with the highest culinary standards. One thing that sets the new chefs apart from old-school restaurateurs is that they tend to be friends sooner than competitors, learning from each other and cooperating where they can. We figured they would be the best guides for a culinary trip around Amsterdam.

P.49 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: +31 (0)20 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

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mar & apr 2017

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news, plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘STAND OUTSIDE DE ELAND, ON THE BERENSTRAAT BRIDGE OVER THE PRINSENGRACHT, AND YOU SEE WHAT REAL AMSTERDAM LIFE IS LIKE.’ FOR BESTSELLING THRILLER WRITER DAVID HEWSON, IT’S ALL ABOUT PERSPECTIVE

text Mark Smith

SPINAL TAP

EVENING NEWS Batavophile bookworms can rejoice now that possibly the greatest Amsterdam novel is available in English – a mere 60 years after it was published in Dutch. Set just after the end of the Second World War, The Evenings by Gerard Reve follows young office worker Frits van Egters as he listlessly roams this city in the grey days between Christmas and New Year’s Eve. A masterful work of irony and pathos, the book consistently tops the charts of the best Dutch novels of all time, making the delayed translation all the more mystifying. The UK’s Pushkin Press has come to the rescue with an exceptionally handsome tome translated by Sam ‘The Dinner’ Garrett.

For a testament to ennui, it’s strangely gripping. pushkinpress.com

Tulips may be just around the corner, but one Amsterdam brother and sister duo still have their hands full with the city’s iconic Christmas tree.

Noëlle and Boye Dorenbos of fragrance company RUIK have acquired the 21-metre tall conifer that stood at the centre of Dam Square throughout December’s festivities, saving it from an appointment with the jaws of the shredder.

Their plan, of course, is to turn the mighty spruce into a unisex scent, with sustainable packaging made from the trunk and needles. Potential wearers needn’t fear smelling like a pine, however. According to Boye, the scent is ‘fresh and green, not at all like a Christmas tree.’ Whatever its exact specifications, the pong – a follow-up to the company’s existing orange peel scent – looks sure to be a spine tingler. ruik.org

BUDDING FRIENDSHIP A 79-year-old tree surgeon who worked for the municipality of Amsterdam has revealed the curious tale of how he came to be supplying supposedly medicinal offcuts from the city’s famed elm trees to Japan, where they’ve become the basis of an entire industry. According to Amsterdammer Eddie Blankers, a Japanese woman approached him in the early 1980s after a vision convinced her that she could find a healing herb in ‘a place with water and a red light’. Since then, Eddie’s elm offcuts have been dried, powdered and distributed to chemotherapy patients in Japan, in the (probably mistaken) belief that they can aid in recuperation. Apparently, a fifty-something Amsterdam glassblower by the name of Shinji Kasema has been acting as translator and go-between. Well, obviously!

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‘THEY HAVE REALLY FUN PLACES, ESPECIALLY THIS CAFÉ.’

‘THANK U AMS & AMSTERDAM FOR SUCH A WONDERFUL SCHEDULE. UR PRODUCTION DOES WHAT NOBODY ELSE CAN...#LOVE AMSTERDAMES.’ BOLLYWOOD SUPERSTAR SHAH RUKH

MARIAH CAREY GIVES A CONCISE TRAVELOGUE ON HER RECENT TRIP TO AMSTERDAM’S BULLDOG COFFEESHOP.

KHAN SHOWS HIS APPRECIATION AFTER FILMING HERE.

MY FAIR EXPAT The ultimate one-stop shop for internationals in the Netherlands, the IamExpat Fair gathers dozens of companies under the behemoth roof of the Westergasfabriek’s Zuiveringshal to help expats with their questions regarding housing, career, education and a multitude of other services. Meet recruiters, connect with locals, attend workshops on the Dutch lifestyle and workplace, and enjoy exclusive offers from IamExpat’s vast network.

An essential event if you just started calling Amsterdam home - or want to expand your local horizons.

25 March Westergasfabriek amsterdam.iamexpatfair.nl

BETTER TOGETHER Integration of refugees remains a tricky subject across Europe, but the Startblok project in the Nieuw-West district of Amsterdam hopes to offer a new solution. Everyone who lives in this modern housing complex of 463 studios and 102 rooms is between 18 and 27 years old.

The Dutch folk are mostly students or recent graduates looking for affordable housing, whereas the majority of their refugee counterparts come from Syria or Eritrea. By mixing young people from very different walks of life and giving them the collective responsibility of managing and maintaining the building, it is hoped that integration will be a quicker and more harmonious affair.

Abdellah Zkert, a refugee from Syria, says he enjoys living with other students much more than living in a refugee shelter: ‘We’ve got something so important here: friendship.’ startblok.amsterdam

REFUSENIKS An upcycling scheme in Noord has been making headlines worldwide for its novel approach to plastic waste reduction. Known as Wasted, the scheme encourages residents to swap their plastic refuse for neighbourhood perks such as free coffee, bike repairs and discount yoga classes. The plastic itself is turned into colourful modular building blocks, which can be used to make street furniture and playgrounds. wastedlab.nl

KIDDING AROUND If you’re a yoga fan, you’re probably no stranger to the downward-facing dog. But when was the last time you encountered a breathing billy goat astride your yoga mat? Thanks to enterprising yoga instructor Brenda Bood, ‘goat yoga’ is a thing, and it’s happening monthly in the Amsterdamse Bos. Bood was running conventional yoga classes out of a picturesque barn at the Ridammerhoeve goat farm when she heard of a farm in the American state of Oregon where the critters were getting involved. Inspired, Bood broke down the boundaries and hasn’t looked back: ‘Contact with the goats releases oxytocin, the so-called cuddle hormone,’ she attests.

‘You can’t be tense in the face of all that cuteness.’

Each session includes a cake and cappuccino – made with goat’s milk, naturally. yogalesje.nl

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mar & apr 2017

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘JEREMY CLARKSON’S CROTCH CAUSES CHAOS IN AMSTERDAM.’ THE UK’S EVER-RESTRAINED SUNDAY EXPRESS NEWSPAPER RESPONDS TO SIGHTINGS OF GIANT BODY PARTS PROMOTING ‘THE GRAND TOUR’.

‘JUST TURNED MY PHONE ON HERE IN AMSTERDAM. SO MUCH LOVE, OVERWHELMED. LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY.’

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‘MOONLIGHT’ DIRECTOR BARRIE JENKINS, ON LEARNING OF THE FILM’S MULTIPLE OSCAR NOMINATIONS.

arcadehotel.nl

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TOP 5 to do

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Packed with retro game consoles and equipped with a comic book library, De Pijp’s new Arcade Hotel is thought to be Europe’s very first dedicated hotel for gamers. Building on an established family-run hotel business, owner Daniel Salmanovich says he’s ‘remodelling this hotel into a special place for people who love gaming. I wanted to create a place where travellers and gamers feel like they are staying at a friend’s home.’ Game on.

POSTER FOR THE TOUR OF LE CHAT NOIR - THÉOPHILE ALEXANDRE STEINLEN, 1896

CONSOLE YOURSELF

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©ELYSIA BRENNER

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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 KEUKENHOF GARDENS The most famous flower garden in the world reopens on 23 March with its rainbow landscape of seven million blooms.

23 March-21 May Stationsweg 166, Lisse keunkenhof.nl

2 PRINTS IN PARIS A monumental exhibition of the iconic Parisian prints from the late 19th and early 20th century is opening at

the Van Gogh Museum.

From 3 March Van Gogh Museum Museumplein 10 vangoghmuseum.nl

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3 KING’S DAY Celebrate the royal birthday at one of the many parties that will paint the town orange on 27 April.

27 April Various locations

4 RESTAURANT WEEK Get amazing deals at the city’s best restaurants during this two-week-long festival.

28 March - 14 April Various locations restaurantweek.nl

5 LAMPEDUSA CANAL TOUR Explore the city’s worldheritage canals and hear the stories of Amsterdam’s most famous refugees (Anne Frank and Spinoza among many others) with a tour guided by recent asylum seekers. rederijlampedusa.nl

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‘ALWAYS GOOD VIBES IN AMSTERDAM.’ SINGING CELEB CHRISTINA MILIAN WANTS TO STAY FROM A.M. TO P.M.

BODY OF EVIDENCE A stretch of land near the AMC teaching hospital is to become Europe’s first taphononomical cemetery. For the uninitiated (and hopefully you are among them), that’s a forensic facility where anatomists can legally study the decomposition of human corpses under natural conditions. The research, carried out in cooperation with the University of Amsterdam and a special police investigation unit, will further forensic science and help solve serious crimes.

CHEERING NEWS He was born in 1652, before the days of flair bartending and hipster gins, but it’s possible that Lucas Bols was the first cocktail supremo. The grandson of the Bols founder invested heavily in the Dutch East India Company, giving him first dibs on spices that would create more than 300 liqueurs and spirits. Now the House of Bols Experience, which tells the story of Dutch booze, has been remixed – and visitors can learn to create their own crafty cocktails from scratch. houseofbols.com

LAST BASTION Any world leader considering the advisability of building an enormous wall would do well to consider the case of Emperor Maximilian I. After visiting Amsterdam in 1481, Max decreed that the city needed a wall to protect it from the Duchy of Guelders and the Bishopric of Utrecht. He instigated a controversial city-wide tax to pay for this massive project, which turned out to be entirely obsolete by the time of its completion in 1494, thanks to the advent of gunpowder and iron. Anyway, this is relevant because a huge underwater expanse of the wall was unexpectedly uncovered during maintenance work on the Singel canal in February.

Now considered a precious remnant of medieval Amsterdam, its giant stones are going to be displayed above ground along the Geldersekade for all to see.

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PART I UP CLOSE

where to eat

WHERE THE CHEFS GO

In a city that is fast spreading its culinary wings, discover which restaurant trends are taking off and where some of the city’s leading chefs go to land a good meal.

TOP 3 INTERNET PICKS The people have spoken While you can't trust everything you read on the internet, these three top-rated restaurants have fans across the board: The Lobby Fizeaustraat, which is also a great lunch destination, tops the 2017 list of Amsterdam’s best restaurants on IENS, the Netherlands’ largest restaurant site.

An adoring public praises its ‘trendy décor, welcoming atmosphere and unfussy yet beautifully presented food’.

TripAdvisor’s number one spot currently belongs to fine dining favourite Vinkeles for its ‘amazing Michelin-star dining experience that’s expensive but worth every penny’. Set in an ‘atmospheric old bakery’ at the Dylan Hotel, there’s ‘inventive food for mature palates with the best wine pairings ever’.

Slow food temple Gartine is the top-listed restaurant in Amsterdam on Yelp, where reviewers rave about this ‘romantic hidden gem with its homemade breakfast and brunch food that is worth every calorie, and mind-blowing high teas’. thelobbyfizeaustraat.nl vinkeles.com gartine.nl

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A host of five-star hotels took Amsterdam’s fine dining scene to the next level by inviting Michelin-starred chefs to their restaurants. In their wake, a new generation of chefs with irreverent and novel ideas entered the scene. text Karin Engelbrecht

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DISHING IT OUT

here’s been a revolution in Amsterdam’s restaurant scene in recent years. Hipster cafés sit shoulder-to-shoulder with slick New Asian hotspots, and butcher-inspired burger bars next to vegan-slanted salad shops and chic hotel restaurants. Meanwhile, the low-key bistronomie movement seems tailor-made for easy-going Amsterdam, with many of the city’s best new restaurants fitting that mould.

CHEF D'OEUVRE ‘There’s so much good stuff happening now. Amsterdam is not even remotely similar to the place I moved to 13 years ago,’ says American barbeque pitmaster Brandon Woodruff of Pendergast Smokehouse.

The financial crisis has helped to separate the wheat from the chaff. ‘As the market started to pressurise and prioritise quality, the places that weren’t hacking it closed, and this created space for new people to try new things’.

Executive Chef Schilo van Coevorden of posh nouveau-Asian eatery Taiko  at the Conservatorium Hotel explains how we got here: ‘During the ’90s, the new chefs coming in were often freestyle cooks who didn’t finish their education, because they

thought all the establishment chefs did the same kind of food.’ They were innovative, but, says Van Coevorden, ‘inconsistent because they never mastered the basics’. Fast-forward to recent years and ‘the younger generation now have the proper education – they know how to cook – and that’s why you get the creativity and the style.’ Looking forward, he’s hopeful. ‘We have a history of being creative in many areas – art, design, trade – the only area we have left to step up is the culinary one.

Dutch food can become hip if we start creating our own heritage, our own Dutch food culture, to leave behind for the next generation. If the Danes can do it, so can we.’

A TASTE OF ASIA Like all the high-end chefs we recently interviewed, Van Coevorden loves low-end eateries, especially Asian ones, citing Oriental City as having the ‘best Chinese food and dim sum in Amsterdam’.

Woodruff also loves their dim sum, adding ‘don’t miss the sticky rice with black mushrooms and pork steamed in a lotus leaf, with tonnes of tea to wash it all down.’ Patron cuisinier at BAK, Benny Blisto, lists his favourite lunch

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PART I UP CLOSE

VEG-CENTRIC Benny Blisto (restaurant BAK) Pioneering Amsterdam restaurants like As, De Kas and BAK were doing pretty things with produce and having fun with fermentation long before it became mainstream.

At BAK, chef Benny Blisto’s ‘way to a better world’ has organic vegetables starring on a set seasonal menu, with wild-caught game meat and fish playing a supporting role. The chef’s favourite restaurant in Amsterdam is Gebr. Hartering, where you’ll find ‘very high-quality food served in a simple and honest way.’ He satisfies his cravings for good burgers, rumoreo milkshakes and mezcal shots at Rotisserie East and regularly waits in line for the ‘best döner in town with all kinds of people, from construction workers to businessmen and police officers’ at Beste Döner.

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© ARJAN BLOK

bakrestaurant.nl restaurantas.nl restaurantdekas.nl gebr-hartering.nl rotisserieamsterdam.nl bestedoner.nl

where to eat

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f’s te chevouri fa BROUWERIJ ’T IJ Beer lovers from all over the world make the pilgrimage to the Gooyer Windmill in Oost for its award-winning range of organic beers, so it’s perhaps no surprise that local chefs love it, too. Frisina thinks they’re ‘doing a great job, maybe because the quality of the water in Amsterdam is very good’ – but, she adds ‘the beer is better!’ And Benny Blisto says it’s ‘especially nice when the weather is good because they have a big terrace.’

Funenkade 7 brouwerijhetij.nl

Perhaps unsurprisingly for someone who cooks so much meat, Woodruff likes ‘fish and rice’ on his days off, and for the best Japanese food, he goes to EN , where ‘the sake list alone makes it worth a visit.’ He adds, ‘we usually stick with traditional dishes, which remind us of visits to Japan, with flavours like burdock root, tsukemono pickles, shiso and fresh, fatty fish served at the perfect temperature.’

Chef Agus Hermawan of Ron Gastrobar Oriental reverts to his roots with Sie-Joe , a cosy restaurant in the centre where you can lunch on ‘simple nasi or bami goreng that is always tasty and brings back memories of Indonesia’. Woodruff also favours the fries topped with rendang (a coconutty beef stew from Indonesia) at Dum Dum Palace , which he calls ‘kind of trashy, but absolutely delicious’ – and trendsetting.

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FIND THEM HERE:  conservatoriumhotel.com/en/ taikorestaurant oriental-city.com newking.nl tasteofculture.net okura.nl/en/culinary/yamazato librijeszusje.com ramen-ya.nl en-amsterdam.nl siejoe.com dumdum.nl bakhuys-amsterdam.nl annemax.nl patisserieholtkamp.nl jwo-lekkernijen.nl doardi.nl

GLOBAL BISTRONOMIE Merijn van Berlo (Choux) Thank the financial crisis for helping to inject the Dutch restaurant scene with a wave of low-key bistronomie-style restaurants, where classically-trained chefs take the best of French cuisine and update it with global influences.

At Kaagman & Kortekaas, the creative menu changes regularly but there’s always a harmonious medley of surprising ingredients and traditional techniques. ‘The era of the stuffy restaurant is over,’ says chef-owner Merijn van Berlo of Choux, a casual restaurant ‘for people who want food that someone spent a lot of time and effort on, for the smallest possible price’. Café Modern, Van Berlo’s pick for most underrated restaurant is a little out of the way in Amsterdam Noord, but follows the same vein for its ‘atmosphere, nice people and reasonably-priced menu with interesting ingredients’.

He wishes he’d opened Vuurtoreneiland because of its location on an island in the IJmeer, and ‘its authentic feel which is perfect for every occasion’. From the trip there by boat to sitting outside, it’s ‘a culinary mecca, by Dutch standards’. choux.nl kaagmanenkortekaas.nl modernamsterdam.nl vuurtoreneiland.nl

© RINZE VEGELIEN

address as New King for its excellent sui kau (shrimp dumplings in chicken broth), and tips Leidseplein’s Taste of Culture as ‘a good place for late night Chinese’, saying it’s ‘a kind of chef ’s hangout, well known for its Peking duck with pancakes and hoisin’.

For special occasions, chef Nadia Frisina of 5&33 sticks with Amsterdam’s most famous Japanese restaurant, Michelin-starred Yamazato at the Okura hotel in De Pijp for ‘the hands of the chef, top ingredients, authentic style and simple yet so elegant atmosphere’. Meanwhile, Sidney Schutte, Executive Chef at two-Michelin-star Librije’s Zusje likes to visit low-key Ramen–Ya by himself, whenever he ‘feels like a quick bowl of noodles. They are the best in town, with fresh noodles in perfectly made, very tasty bouillon.’

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PART I UP CLOSE

where to eat

HOTEL DE GOUDFAZANT

chef’s favourite

Tucked away in a former industrial complex in Noord, this roomy restaurant was recommended by three (!) of our five featured chefs. Blisto says ‘it’s the perfect place for celebrations with a really relaxed atmosphere and great, affordable food and wine.’ Van Berlo agrees, adding that they have ‘really great staff and are good at accommodating larger groups because you never feel like you’re bothering other people’. Woodruff fondly recalls his first visit: ‘It was summer, the garage doors were rolled up, and you could watch ships passing along the IJ with a cool glass of Picpoul de Pinet in hand and a slice of foie terrine. They’ve nailed something beautiful, something simultaneously worldly and Amsterdams.’

© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Aambeeldstraat 10h hoteldegoudfazant.nl

f’s ite chevour fa RIJSEL Situated in a former domestic science school, this Eastside eatery is renowned for its rotisserie chicken and FrenchFlemish fare. As ‘a sucker for poulet noir and côte de bœuf served on watercress’, Woodruff praises the ‘genuine and warm service, exceptional wine list, and premium ingredients prepared simply and well’. And also the added note of nostalgia for the time he spent living in Belgium.

Marcusstraat 52B rijsel.com

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the ‘broodje bal with mayo and mustard’ (a Dutch meatball sandwich) at JWO Lekkernijen and the fries at Doardi , which are ‘first rate in terms of quality and consistency: twice-fried in fresh oil, soft and almost creamy on the inside, crisp on the outside, with the right amount of salt. Add the samurai sauce (fiery Belgian sambal mayo) and you’ve arrived.’ Yes, it’s easier than ever to enjoy a good meal in every price category these days. ‘This is an exciting time to go to Amsterdam restaurants,’ says Van Coevorden, ‘and it’s only going to get better.’

Hear hear.

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INSIDERS’ SECRETS Breakfast recommendations were harder to come by, but considering the long – and late – hours worked by chefs, Blisto favours Bakhuys as a ‘nice place for coffee and sourdough bread’. Hermawan likes the ‘cosy vibe, fresh food and superlative coffee’ at Anne & Max . And Frisina says the cappuccino at Espressamente Illy is ‘amazing and truly Italian-style’.

Both Hermawan and Van Berlo cited croquettes from Patisserie Holtkamp as the ‘best local speciality’, while Frisina listed ‘fish from Volendam, such as smoked mackerel and eel’. Woodruff is won over by

NEW ASIAN Agus Hermawan (Ron Gastrobar Indonesia)

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New Asian eateries that combine Oriental flavours with modern presentation and Dutch design flair are blossoming like so many lotus flowers, as well-travelled local chefs bring back ideas from abroad. ‘Unfortunately, not everyone gets it right,’ argues Javanese chef Agus Hermawan of the posh Ron Gastrobar Indonesia, where East impeccably meets West. ‘While ingredients such as lemongrass and lime leaf are increasingly used to add an Asian twist to Western dishes, the traditional flavour is often absent,’ says the veteran of Indonesian mainstays such as Blauw and Blue Pepper. Perhaps that’s why Hermawan’s guilty pleasure is homemade bakmi from Aries Noodles with ‘the authentic taste of old Jakarta’. His favourite food shop is family-run Patisserie Linnick, where you’ll find ‘beautiful bonbons, cakes and tarts with unique flavours and creative combinations’.

Restaurant Beulings is the city’s ‘most underrated restaurant’, according to Hermawan, a ‘hidden gem, tucked away down an alley in the centre, with a homely atmosphere and Michelin-star level food and wine’.

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© GRACE GUINO

rongastrobarindonesia.nl restaurantblauw.nl/en/amsterdam restaurantbluepepper.com ariesnoodles.nl linnick.nl beulings.nl

'Dutch food can become hip if we start creating our own heritage to leave behind for the next generation'

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where to eat

PART I UP CLOSE

chef’s favourite DUIKELMAN ‘A very good shop for kitchenware’ is how Blisto describes this family-run Amsterdam institution for professional kitchen equipment and the best free advice in the city, whether you’re a star chef or amateur cook. With a range of over 15,000 items – from chequered tea towels to the latest Bertazzoni ovens – it’s no surprise that Van Berlo claims that ‘whatever he needs , 99.9% of the time they’ll have it’.

HOTEL DARLINGS Nadia Frisina (5&33)

© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Ferdinand Bolstraat 126 duikelman.nl

L’AMUSE

From Michelin marvels like Librije’s Zusje at the Waldorf Astoria to more accessible options such as Lotti’s at The Hoxton and 5&33 at art’otel, Amsterdam’s hotel restaurants are enjoying a new-found appeal with locals. With amenities like lounges, libraries, art galleries and fireplaces, many hotels feel like a more luxurious home away from home in cramped Amsterdam, where you can meet people from all around the world, explains Nadia Frisina of Mediterranean influenced 5&33. For ‘happiness slice by slice’ the pizza-loving Italian chef tips La Fucina, a little shop where ‘they use Italian family recipes to make authentic pizza dough and top it with good, natural ingredients.’ For lunch, she ‘likes to escape to Maza at the Foodhallen for healthy Mediterranean salads, hummus and olives’.

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5and33.nl librijeszusje.com thehoxton.com lafucina.nl foodhallen.nl

chef’s favourite

This Zuid-side fromagerie and delicatessen, with in-house affinage facilities, stocks over 400 varieties of cheese from around the world. ‘You can always find something special there - from a village somewhere - that would be almost impossible to discover otherwise,’ says Frisina. ‘Every detail tells a story of family and tradition, about the right way to do things: like burrata from a little farm in Puglia, provola ragusana, and Martelli from one of the oldest, most respected pasta makers in Italy.’

Olympiaplein 111 lamuse.nl

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Amsterdam’s next-gen meat restaurants take their protein seriously. At The Roast Room there’s an in-house butchery with dry-ageing cabinets, as well as a charcoal grill and rotisserie. And no doubt the Ole Hickory pit at Pendergast Smokehouse plays a big part in producing what’s hands-down the best brisket in town. Authenticity is crucial too, says Kansas-born pitmaster Brandon Woodruff, who is ‘just trying to do something small and high quality, with roots in where I’m from’. When he’s not busy barbequing, Woodruff enjoys brunch at Buffet van Odette, where he praises the fluffy scrambled eggs with truffle cheese, grapefruit brûlée with maple syrup, well-made coffees, ‘and bubbles to get your brunch moving in the right direction’. He also urges everyone to ‘please eat Ghanese food at underrated Gold Coast Kitchen': Don’t miss the jollof rice or the spicy, soul-satisfying soup made with smoked mackerel, beef broth and fufu. pendergast.nl en.theroastroom.nl buffet-amsterdam.nl goldcoastkitchen.nl

f’s te chevouri fa RESTAURANT C At MasterChef Holland judge Michiel van der Eerde’s modish restaurant, the gimmick’s in the name, with a menu arranged by temperature: from cold tuna tartare with ponzu, spring onion and curry ice cream to grilled pulpo with bell peppers, Ratte potatoes, and chorizo.

Hermawan likes to go there for celebrations because of the unique concept, with ‘good food, fine service and an attractive décor with a large central kitchen and private upstairs area for group gatherings’.

Wibautstraat 125 c.amsterdam

© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

BIG ON MEAT Brandon Woodruff (Pendergast Smokehouse)

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FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card:

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

HERMITAGE MUSEUM ROMANOVS AND REVOLUTION Until 17 September

For the 100th anniversary of the Russian Revolution, the Hermitage Museum is putting on a monumental exhibition that retraces the steps of a 300-year-old monarchy's demise.

250 items are on display, including documents that show how the Tsar's decisions led to the uprising, as well as intimate belongings of the imperial couple such as clothes and artwork.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

VAN GOGH MUSEUM PRINTS IN PARIS 1900 From 3 March

See the original prints of iconic images such as the black cat and the Moulin Rouge, designed in fin-de-siècle Paris and now popular posters all over the world. The Prints in Paris exhibition at the Van Gogh Museum is also a rare opportunity to see similar, gorgeous works of art born during the times of the printing revolution, many of them from private collections and galleries.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • A free canal cruise and more 24hrs €57 / 48hrs €67 / 72hrs €77 / 96hrs €87

The I amsterdam City Card is available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see www.iamsterdam.com/citycard.

TSAR PETER HOUSE One of the oldest wooden houses in the Netherlands (1632), this modest labourer’s house is the one Tsar Peter the Great stayed in when he visited Zaandam in 1697. A beautiful dome was added to protect this small museum, which features countless memories of the Tsar’s stay, as well as visits by other dignitaries who have written or carved their names in the windows and wooden walls.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. www.iamsterdam.com/citycard

CLASS 2

8 il 31-12-201 with Valid unt required and out Check in er on every trip each carri

1DAY

ERDAM AMSTR N & EGIO L TRAVE TICKET

mar & apr 2017

PART II 20 22 24 27 29 30 31

ENTERTAINMENT

'AMSTERDAM IS SO OPEN-MINDED AND CREATIVE, NOBODY CARES ABOUT HOW YOU DRESS'.

Amanda Yiu of Formocha Tea is grateful she can indulge her passion for vintage

FLOWER SEASON BODY ART KING'S DAY NEW AMSTERDAMMERS IVO VAN HOVE FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS OPERA FORWARD FESTIVAL An exploration of the extraordinary new opera talents around the world, the Opera Forward Festival is a twoweek-long treat for fans of the stage organised by the Dutch National Opera. A slew of special, innovative performances from contemporary composers will be presented.

Among many others, the instant classic Wozzeck by Alban Berg is a tragic tale of the psychological aftermath of war, while Fortress Europe, which anthropomorphises Europe to touch on the refugee crisis, is the first episode of a series of operas that dissect current issues. During the course of the festival, a vast programme of ‘off’ events also includes performances by young talents and talks with prominent artists and writers.

18-31 MARCH National Opera & Ballet, Amstel 3 operaforwardfestival.nl

:KLASSIFEST Pop temple Paradiso used to be a church, and it often honours its more traditional beginnings with classical endeavours. This new festival transforms the infamous Leidseplein club into an orchestra pit for an evening of classical revelling. With bitesized portions of the greatest classical works spanning centuries of masterpieces by Purcell, Satie, Bach, Mahler, Händel and many others, performed by illustrious international musicians such as the Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra, the Amsterdam Sinfonietta and the Kobra Ensemble, :klassifest is a perfect concert for starters as well as hardcore classical fans.

25 MARCH Paradiso paradiso.nl

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flower season

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Spring Awakening Celebrate the season’s revival as Amsterdam and the surrounding region erupts in colourful bloom.

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text Lily Heaton

KEUKENHOF GARDENS 23 March – 21 May Lisse keukenhof.nl THE TULP FESTIVAL 1 April – 14 May tulpfestival.nl SPRINGSNOW CELEBRATION 21 April – 21 May springsnow.nl CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April Amsterdamse Bos TURKISH TULIP EXHIBITION 3 March – 29 May Museum Van Loon Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl

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s winter thaws, Amsterdam’s drab scenery evolves into a spring awakening when markets and gardens overflow with vibrant hyacinths, daffodils and crocuses. Elm trees bud along Amsterdam’s scenic canals, while Japanese cherry blossoms pop open in the Westerpark and Amsterdamse Bos. Meanwhile, the quintessential tulips make their transformation from ordinary brown bulbs into extraordinary blooms.

The tulip’s journey into the spotlight actually dates back to the 16th century, when the flower, native to Central Asia and aptly named

for the turban it resembles, travelled through the Ottoman Empire and into the budding metropolis of Amsterdam. Tulips gained popularity, and contributed to Amsterdam’s Golden Age as they blossomed into a status symbol for wealthy elites like Van Loon, who held trading ties with the Ottoman Empire and Dutch East India Company.

Nowadays, the Museum Van Loon, an elegant family home along the Keizersgracht, hosts the Turkish Tulip exhibition (3 March - 29 May). Inspired by the trade route, contemporary British artist and curator

Gavin Turk blends history, modernity, globalisation and immigration with artwork by Sir Peter Blake, Fiona Banner, Damien Hirst, Philippa van Loon and himself.

TULIP MANIA Golden Age competition pushed horticulturalists to cultivate assorted patterns, which ironically first emerged from a tulip virus.

Soon enough, full-fledged tulip mania took root and eventually led to an economic bubble. Today, fields near Leiden still erupt like clockwork with assorted flowers. From 23 March to 21 May, enthusiasts can tiptoe

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highlights ROY BEUSKER

CINEMA ARABE

CINEMA ARABE

24H OOST

A CHORUS LINE

For its eighth edition in Rialto, Cinema Arabe presents a strong selection of recent Arab films from the Maghreb, the Middle East, Europe and North America. The festival opens on 11 April with the Dutch premier screening of Fatima

by Philippe Faucon, winner of three Césars in France, including for Best Film. Other films include Egyptian thriller The Price, dark comedy Very Big Shot from Lebanon, and Parisienne (Peur de Rien) which broaches the sensitive topic of living between two cultures. As artistic expression and political repression often go hand in hand in some countries of the Arab world, this will be a strong theme running through the festival. In addition to 27 feature films, short films and documentaries, there will be plenty of debates and a concert

by Tunisian singer Ghalia Benali.

19-24 April Rialto, Ceintuurbaan 338 cinemaarabe.nl

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24H OOST 24H Amsterdam is the opportunity to experience the city in new ways, when, for a blistering 24-hour period, a neighbourhood’s shops, clubs and cultural institutions throw open their doors for some special (and mostly free) surprises. The Oost (East) edition on 11 March offers a programme chock full of activities such as a tour of Theatre Carré’s secrets, a chocolate tasting at Van Velze’s Chocolaterie, a ‘Hysterical Karaoke’ party at Ruk & Pluk, and a Trampoline Disco at Vrog.

11 March Various locations iamsterdam.com

though the tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens.

A rainbow landscape of seven million blooms on 32 hectares will host upwards of 800,000 visitors this season. Impressively redesigned each year, the garden features a ‘Dutch Design’ theme highlighting renowned artists like Mondrian and Rietveld and other assorted activities during this 68th edition.

This past autumn, half a million bulbs were tucked into the ground in preparation for spring’s return. The ambitious goal? A colourful tulip takeover! The Tulp Festival (1 April - 14 May)

features flowers at over 60 locations – including the Museumplein, Vondelpark and Oosterpark – and aims to eventually include over 800,000 tulips: one for every Amsterdammer.

SPRING BLOSSOMS Along with tulips, Amsterdam’s majestic canals, lined with 75,000 elm trees, are part of the city’s prized scenery. Spring temperatures rise and snow melts away in exchange for a veil of pastel seeds during the Spring Snow Celebration (21 April-21 May).

This edition honours Johanna Westerdijk, the

first Dutch female professor who, a century ago, provided crucial research on Dutch elm disease and is credited for the numerous trees still standing today. Wander the Elm Route and enjoy this natural phenomenon during an eight kilometer stroll starting in Noord, crossing the IJ and heading east towards the Hortus Botanicus.

Further south, the Japanese ‘Sakura’ or Cherry Blossom Festival returns to the lush Amsterdamse Bos in April.

Honouring spring’s revival, this cultural festival features Japanese food, drink and music under an umbrella of 400 cherry trees.

A CHORUS LINE ‘One sin-gu-lar sen-sa-tion’: nothing quite beats Broadway’s hit musical when it comes to golden lamé spectacle and highly-choreographed cheer. Carré is treating us to a Dutch revival of the 1975 Tony Award-winning hit in this production by Cornelissen Entertainment with Edwin Jonker and Bettina Holwerda in the lead roles. While the language may be a small barrier to following the drama between the 17 protagonists fighting (dirty!) for their dreams to appear in the top eight spots of the infamous ‘chorus line’, the dance numbers and the music promise to remain as enthralling and fabulous as they were 40 years ago.

6-9 April Theatre Carré, Amstel 115 carre.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

body art

In the flesh From simple makeup to full-body tattoos and scarification, the Tropenmuseum explores how body art spans centuries and civilisations. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

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n 1991, a couple of German tourists hiking the Austrian Alps discovered a partially frozen body: Ötzi, a shepherd who roamed the same mountains 4,000 years ago. His well-preserved body shows the oldest documented tattoos identified to date. Sociologist David Le Breton wrote that ‘the history of body modifications is as old as human society. From religious rituals to tribal marks, they are found in every geographical zone on Earth.’

The Tropenmuseum's vast collection of artifacts demonstrates the immense span – not only in time and space but also in type of art that humans have used to modify their bodies. ‘We have pre-Colombian statues that show skull deformations, for example. Back then, they thought it was very beautiful to elongate or widen your head,’ says Titia Zoeter, curator of the Body Art exhibition, a rerun of last year's edition brought back by popular demand and

opening on 31 March. We may find these modifications extreme, but Zoeter points out their similarities with today's common plastic surgeries - after all, isn't rhinoplasty a skull-shape alteration as well? Drawing similar comparisons through the ages, a pair of lotus shoes, which originated in 10th century Imperial China, will be exhibited alongside a pair of very high heels from a contemporary designer.

NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE An examination of Ötzi's 61 tattoos led scientists to think that rather than decoration, he may have been searching for relief from joint pain, much like acupuncture. Anthropologists like Le Breton have also studied thousands of rituals involving tattoos, piercings and scarification – rites of passage that can honour a coming-of-age, cement an individual’s inclusion in a tribe or religion, or even display social status. ‘Still

today, people like to change their bodies because they want to express their belonging to a certain group,’ says Zoeter. ‘Or, on the contrary, they want to signify their individuality, express their identity.’

The Tropenmuseum is asking people to send in their own photos and stories. This collection will be displayed alongside the rest of the exhibition (which even includes a very controversial tattooed Barbie doll).

‘Through these stories, we want to show that everyone has their own reasons for modifying their body,’ says Zoeter. She adds: ‘One of the goals of the exhibit is to open minds.’ After all, judging what is skin deep becomes a bit more difficult once you know what lies beneath.

FROM 31 MARCH Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 tropenmuseum.nl

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featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

JOHN MALKOVITCH

15 MARCH Royal Concertgebouw concertgebouw.nl

100 YEARS DE STIJL In 2017 the Stedelijk Museum is celebrating the 100th anniversary of the first issue of De Stijl. This magazine was used by early 20th century artists as a platform to spread new ideas and play with theories on colour and space, a movement that greatly contributed to the advent of abstract art. The Stedelijk collection contains hundreds of works by De Stijl artists such as Piet Mondrian, Gerrit Rietveld and Theo van Doesburg. These will be exhibited in six of the museum's galleries alongside other artists whose oeuvre inherited the revolutionary spirit of De Stijl: Bas Jan Ader, Isa Genzken and even the iconic Lichtenstein.

UNTIL 21 MAY Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl

MADAME BUTTERFLY

© SANDRO MILLER

Born: 9 December 1953 in Christopher, Illinois, USA Talent: The American actor’s performances in such iconic films as Of Mice and Men, Dangerous Liaisons and In the Line of Fire won him shelves full of awards, including a handful of Oscar nominations.

Malkovitch’s vast catalogue of characters, his self-deprecating humour and his eerily soft drawl have earned him a cult following, which found its culmination in Spike Jonze and Charlie Kaufman’s Being John Malkovitch, an absurd yet brilliant movie. In the words of Malkovitch: ‘Either the movie's a bomb and it's got not only my name above the title but my name in the title, so I'm fucked that way; or it does well and I'm just forever associated with this character.’

Of the almost 100 films he’s starred in, he said: ‘I’m not a rearview mirror person. I only go forward. I’ve worked with some extraordinary people and loved it. Some of them have left this earth. That makes me sad but all the more appreciative.’ In March, Malkovitch will appear in Just Call Me God at the Concertgebouw. This story of a deposed dictator’s last 90 minutes, written and directed by Michael Sturminger, is set to organ music

by Bach, Liszt and Messiaen. How very Malkovitch.

UNTIL 17 SEPTEMBER Hermitage Museum, Amstel 51 hermitage.nl

A couple of operas battle for the title of Giacomo Puccini’s most beloved masterpiece, including La Tosca and La Bohème. But neither contains such enchanting exoticism as Madame Butterfly, the tragic tale of unconditional love between a Japanese geisha (Butterfly) and an American naval officer. With classic staging, beautiful décors and of course ravishing makeup and costumes, this production of Madame Butterfly is brought to the Meervaart's stage by the State Opera of Tatarstan with a full orchestra, a choir and internationally acclaimed soloists. Not a dry eye in the room, we wager.

26 MARCH Theatre de Meervaart, Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl

© GARF, STATE ARCHIVE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION

One of the most historically significant revolutions happened a hundred years ago, when the Romanovs’ reign came to an abrupt end in 1917.

Such a momentous anniversary is well deserving of the monumental exhibition that will occupy the Hermitage Museum in February. More than 250 items from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg retracing the steps of the 300-year-old monarchy’s demise will be on display. From documents demonstrating the Tsar’s decisions that led to the uprising to intimate artifacts of the imperial couple, including clothes, portraits, artworks and even children’s toys, it’s a fascinating insight into the tumultuous beginnings of a new Russia.

‘Being an actor teaches you not to be constantly telling people what to do.’

GRIGORY RASPUTIN. 1915, ANONYMOUS PHOTOGRAPHER

ROMANOVS AND REVOLUTION

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

King's Day

Long live the King!

Join us in painting the town orange to celebrate Amsterdam’s biggest event of the year. text Elysia Brenner photo Cris Taola Olivares

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t’s a bucket list experience, walking through the sea of orange festivities that transforms Amsterdam every 27 April. For one day, the city’s population literally doubles, and pours out on the streets for the best bash of the year: King Willem-Alexander’s big birthday party.

A CITY-WIDE AFFAIR Thankfully, the writhing orange masses have gotten a little smaller since the

city decided to pull the biggest dance parties out of the centre. Tickets to one-day festivals like Loveland van Oranje in Meerpark, Nassau Festival at the Olympic Stadium and Kingsland Festival at the RAI are for sale online now, but the ticket window closes on 26 April. No tickets at the door, period.

There are also plenty of free pop-up festivities going on in bars and squares around town which are definitely worth a stroll-by. Expect the full range

of Amsterdam eats and plenty of drinks (one at a time!), DJs of all stripes, and the Vrijmarkt – a city-wide flea market where locals peddle their stuff, including the rare but potential hidden treasure (aka a constant temptation once beer #3 starts to loosen your billfold).

King’s Day is also quite kid friendly. In Vondelpark and other designated spots you’ll find live music, second-hand wares, face painting, food and fun – but swamped by knee-high revellers rather

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don’t miss these POP ARTS FESTIVAL

IN HOT WATER Last but not least there are the boats, packed hull to hull through the city centre’s canals, and crammed with dancers scoping out the shore for potential toilet opportunities. It’s quintessential King’s Day. As with the dance parties, make your arrangements in advance. Word of mouth will usually find you a spot, but you’ll have to get really lucky to land one the day of.

ONE NIGHT STAND The confusingly named King’s Night is actually the night before King’s Day – so, 26 April. That’s when the party really gets started… and doesn’t stop until the festivities are over at 20:00 the next day (or even until your afterparty ends at dawn on the 28th).

With its vast programme of street and club festivities, King’s Night is also the chance to party on a boat that actually moves. It’s a totally different (and much cheaper to arrange) experience. There are tighter restrictions on sound, but that never stopped anyone. Look for the ‘secret’ boat party that gathers every year: vessels huddled together under a collection of bridges in the city centre, where the speakers are anything but silent.

iamsterdam.com/en/visiting/ whats-on/kings-day

18 – 23 APRIL Theater Bellevue, Jeugdtheater de Krakeling and De Brakke Grond popartsfestival.nl

WORLD PRESS PHOTO It takes a bit of bracing to face this yearly exhibit where the photojournalists crowned during the World Press Photo competition expose the harsh but also the wonderful realities of the past 12 months. It is also an essential moment filled with revelations, reflection and inspiration, as the beauty of photographic art, which is slowly losing its tenure in a world of Instagram citizen reporting, becomes obvious. Large prints of the podium winners of each category, from general news and portraits to sports and animal photography, are on display at the Nieuwe Kerk.

WILLIAM EGGLESTON FOAM presents a journey through the southern US states via the camera lens of American photographer William Eggleston in this series of iconic images taken between 1966 and 1974. A pioneer in colour photography renowned for his experimental use of the form, Eggleston transformed everyday scenes into vivid, poetic and mysterious images. During his road trips through Memphis and the Mississippi Delta onwards to the Wild, Wild West, he captured photographs of road signs, dilapidated facades and interiors of diners; once passing through Los Alamos, the New Mexico site where the nuclear bomb was infamously created. The exhibition, entitled ‘Los Alamos’ after that ominous stop on his route, also includes Eggleston’s first colour photograph.

© BURHAN OZBILICI

than inebriated adults.

Amongst said adults, different parts of town tend to draw different groups: trendsters of all sexual persuasions flock to the Reguliersdwarsstraat (also known as The Secret Village), outdoor dancers get their groove on around Marie Heinekenplein, and the Jordaan’s Westerstraat attracts the thoroughly Dutch belting out drinking songs from the motherland. By the end of the day, half the town has taken the ferry to NDSM to join the free multi-stage Vrijhaven festival (buy tickets in advance to access the techno stages).

Despite its moniker, the Pop Arts Festival is actually a sixday, multiple-venue event focusing on local and international puppetry. Forget Sesame Street and Punch and Judy; think Japanese Kabuki, Russian and Czech marionettes and Turkish shadow puppets.

‘There’s not much of a puppet tradition in the Netherlands,’ says artist Ulrike Quade, who calls her company a puppet theatre for adults. ‘My mission is to integrate puppets more and more into theatre, dance and all the disciplines so it’s one form.’

15 APRIL – 9 JULY Nieuwe Kerk, Dam Square worldpressphoto.com

© WILLIAM EGGLESTON

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FROM 17 MARCH FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 foam.org

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Off the beaten canal Sail the canals in (different) style

Star Vu Ten years of iconic photography text Catalina Iorga

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ver the past ten years, the Rijksmuseum acquired 100 works by some of the 20th century’s most acclaimed American photographers, including William Klein, Steve Fitch and Saul Leiter. To celebrate this decade of fruitful collaboration with law fim Baker & McKenzie, the country’s most visited museum has decided to showcase 30 of these prime examples of modern and documentary photography.

Star Vu gets its name from Steve Fitch’s photo of an eponymous drive-in theatre in Longmont, Colorado. The cinema was demolished in the early '80s, soon after Fitch had captured its colourful neon sign presiding over an empty lot at dusk. The photographer rose to fame by documenting ‘the vernacular of the journey’ as he turned his lens to motels and truck stops alongside America’s forgotten highways.

While Fitch sought places far removed from city crowds, Saul Leiter captured painterly scenes blending New York’s flurry of lights, pops of colour and shadows of people zooming by or deep in conversation. His work successfully challenged the norms of the technically perfect photograph, as did his contemporary’s, William

Klein, with blurred yet straight-to-the-point snaps of street life.

New York was also a central character in the somewhat limited work of Austria-born Lisette Model, who called herself ‘a passionate lover of the snapshot’. Her black and white close-up portraits of the city’s inhabitants – from drunken revelers at Sammy’s Bar to grotesque elderly socialites – are unforgiving yet tender. But iconic photographer Joel Meyerowitz thought Model’s work to be misanthropic, embodying ‘a disrespect for the world’ because he found it crucial to be ‘morally conscious’ and portray harsh American realities, such as the aftermath of the 9/11 attacks. Morality was something documentary photographer Lewis Hine valued above all: using his craft as a tool for social change, Hine helped reform child labour laws after depicting youngsters toiling in factories across the US. For those preferring more abstract readings of reality, fear not: works such as Herbert Matter’s Light drawing should provide plenty of opportunity to ponder.

UNTIL 21 MAY Rijksmuseum, Museumstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl

LAMPEDUSA CRUISES The company’s two tour boats were once used to ferry refugees across much more dangerous waters. Manned by asylum seekers, they give visitors an alternate view of the city: ‘Each part of the tour is related to the story of a refugee who was excluded and later became valuable, such as Spinoza and Anne Frank,’ says Moe Al Masri, whose journey from Syria to Amsterdam included one such rickety vessel. rederijlampedusa.nl ECO TOURS Sustainability enthusiasts should head for Stromma Netherlands’ eco tours, given on cosy open-air electric boats with passionate captainguides. Similarly, Small Boat Cruise is partly powered by solar panels, and little enough to navigate the nooks and crannies of Amsterdam. stromma.nl tours-tickets.com THOSE DAMN BOAT GUYS The self-described ‘giggling man-babies’ running the show have been likened to knowl-

edgeable stand-up comedians by their fans. Their small wooden boats feature a stern where we’ve heard you can smoke pretty much anything. thosedamboatguys.com CULINARY CRUISES Nowadays there are canal tours to satisfy every conceivable gastronomic hankering: pizza, hamburgers, cocktails and even the pancake boat for kids. The Jordaan Food & Canals Tour stops at Nine Streets culinary favourites, while the pre-WWI wooden vessel Salonboot Avanti is available for BBQs. On the weekends, G’s Brunch Boat is famous for its selection of Bloody Marys. eatingamsterdamtours.com salonbootavanti.nl reallyniceplace.com DIY A cool alternative to rental pedal boats is Captain Ron Visser, who will teach you how to navigate the waterways, earning you a ‘Captain of the Amsterdam Canals’ distinction. Even if just for a day. stromma.nl amsterdamboatcompany.com

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

© STEVE FITCH

text Lauren Comiteau

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THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

When she opened high-end tea shop Formocha in 2006, Amanda Yiu (52) gifted Amsterdam with the delicacy and decorum of the tea ceremony, an ancient tradition of her Chinese homeland. text and photo Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘Amsterdam saved me’ 1. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN AMSTERDAM? I first came to Holland after high school in Hong Kong. I was a creative spirit, I didn’t want to work as a salesgirl or in a Chinese restaurant. I travelled many places – I tried England, Germany, America – but it’s Amsterdam that saved me. I was 29 and it was my last shot; I thought, if it doesn’t work out, I’ll go back to Hong Kong.

2. SO IT WORKED OUT? Amsterdam is very small, and international. That combination makes it very easy to be daring, because people here will try anything, and they believe in quality. I first opened a hair salon, my first passion.

On the other side of my shop, I had a long table where I served tea. People would come in and sit, make art or paint, drink my tea and ask questions about its origins. So when I realised that hairdressing would be too taxing in my old age and was considering new career options, tea seemed like a natural fit.

3. WHAT IS DIFFERENT ABOUT FORMOCHA? You can buy regular tea everywhere, so it was very clear to me that I wanted to open a high-quality shop, for connoisseurs. I come from Chinese tea money: I learned all about it from my father. Tea is very complicated: you need to know about geography, history, agriculture. It took me five years to open the shop; I invested all my money and travelled all over the world to visit farms and factories, to taste, research and network. I am specialised in Asian teas, and today I am the official ambassador of Pu-erh tea in Europe.

4. IS YOUR CLIENTELE MOSTLY COMPRISED OF CONNOISSEURS? Most of my clients are men.

People believe tea is a woman’s drink, but in Asia, tea is traditionally for highly-educated men: they get together to discuss business, the economy. That’s why we don’t carry anything too fruity or flowery. Our famous ice tea is a mix of Oolong and black tea, with fresh lemon and mint.

5. DO YOU DO TEA CEREMONIES? We can accommodate four people here on Looiersgracht, but our flagship store on Brouwersgracht is like a cultural centre, where we organise many tea events, often with musicians.

At the end of April we’ll have our Spring Tea Festival. We serve Chinese and Japanese snacks, such as spicy pecans and delicate vegetable tempuras. They go wonderfully with the tea.

6. BOTH OF YOUR SHOPS ARE IN THE JORDAAN? It’s my favourite neighbourhood of Amsterdam, the western part of the canal belt. It’s the best area to walk around, to enjoy all the galleries. It’s great to rent a bike, or even a boat.

7. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT AMSTERDAM? It’s so open-minded and creative, nobody cares about how you dress – and I like to wear a lot of vintage. In Asian countries people are more uptight about fashion trends.

8. AND WHAT DO YOU NOT LIKE SO MUCH? In the past couple of years, AirBnB has really killed the housing market, and prices have gone up so much. It’s terribly painful for residents.

9. WHERE DO YOU FIND AUTHENTIC CHINESE FOOD? For noodles, New King in Chinatown is the best, and Sea Palace and Oriental City have the best dim sum for a quick lunch. For dinner, Taste of Culture on Leidseplein offers delicious Cantonese fare.

10. AFTER ALL THIS TIME, DOES AMSTERDAM FEEL LIKE HOME? It always did, in a very natural way. I am an Amsterdammer. formocha.nl

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PART II VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

VISITOR INFORMATION

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance.

The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy.

Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM STORE Discover the best of Amsterdam here. Real Amsterdam products and the best tips on everything you want to know about the city. Come and take a look!

In the IJ Hall (inside Central Station) Open Mon-Wed 8:00-19:00, Thur-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00) info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres) I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 calendar days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

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2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in r on every trip rrie ca ch ea

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Drama king Throughout the theatrical firmament, stars come out for cult director Ivo van Hove. Don’t miss the chance to catch his work on home turf. text Mark Smith

the lead in Van Hove’s update of Luchino Visconti’s Obsession, as part of the prestigious Holland Festival. Cate Blanchett is an ardent fan, and Ruth Wilson, star of HBO’s The Affair, admits to having courted Van Hove for her title role in Hedda: ‘He deconstructs a play like no one I know,’ she explains. Indeed, Van Hove has cut Hedda Gabler adrift from its 19th-century Norwegian origins and set it to music by Joni Mitchell.

There have been whispers of dissent amid the countless ovations. In February, British playw right Sir David Hare’s comments about European directors ‘coming in and doing director’s theatre where you camp up classic plays and you cut them and you prune them around,’ were interpreted as a criticism of Van Hove’s supposedly iconoclastic tendencies.

Still, the Belgian’s fearless, internationalist instincts and his knack for divining oblique contemporary resonances in the unlikeliest texts continue to feel right at home in the bosom of the Stadsschouwburg theatre on Amsterdam’s Leidseplein.

And now that the cult of Van Hove is on the verge of world domination, catching one of his surtitled productions – such as the acclaimed Shakespeare hybrid Kings of War – in the Mokum mothership will surely imbue the experience with extra satisfaction. It's like the suit that fits all the more perfectly because it was bought on Savile Row. tga.nl HEDDA GABLER 9 March Pathé Tuschinski

KINGS OF WAR 13 April (with subtitles) Stadsschouwburg

© JAN VERSWEYVELD

In March, as part of the UK’s National Theatre Live, Henrik Ibsen’s classic play Hedda Gabler will be simulcast from London’s South Bank into the art deco splendour of the Tuschinski cinema in Amsterdam. There’s a strange irony to this cultural transaction, for Ivo van Hove, the Belgian-born director at the helm of Hedda, is currently our foremost artistic export, juggling his role as director of the Toneelgroep Amsterdam repertory group with a bewildering array of topflight engagements across the planet Two years ago, Van Hove’s terse take on A View from the Bridge – Arthur Miller’s quintessential New York tale of a Brooklyn longshoreman gone awry – scooped two Tony awards, prompting the Washington Post to declare this decidedly un-American director ‘Broadway’s man of the moment’. This year, his majority-Dutch Toneelgroep Amsterdam will stage four different productions during a residency at the Barbican theatre in London. The first is March’s six-hour Dutch-language amalgamation of Shakespeare’s Roman tragedies – an immediate sell out. Theatrically speaking, Ivo van Hove can flog coals to Newcastle, then charge for them.

It helps that he’s the name all the names want to work with. David Bowie entrusted him with the realisation of his parting gift to the world, the surrealist musical Lazarus. Jude Law will come to Amsterdam’s Royal Theater Carré in June to play

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time

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Imagine Film Festival Everything is fantastic text Bregtje Schudel

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12–22 APRIL Imagine Film Festival EYE, IJPromenade 1 imaginefilmfestival.nl

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15 APRIL The Surrealist Ball Tolhuistuin, IJPromenade 2 surrealistball.nl

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ast year, the Imagine Film Festival cast its eye on fantastical landscapes. Now, for its 33rd edition, it’s all about fantastic fashion. From the space suits in TRON and TRON: Legacy and everything Colleen Atwood ever designed for Tim Burton, to Mila Jovovich's skimpy outfit in The Fifth Element, courtesy of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Costumes can add to the illusion, or really distract (remember George Clooney’s nipple suit in Batman & Robin? Sadly, so do we.)

Special guest will be none other than Lindy Hemming, costume designer for Pierce Brosnan’s (and Daniel Craig’s first) Bond, Christian Bale’s Batman and, last but not least, Angelina Jolie’s Lara Croft. But Croft is not the most kick-ass woman Hemming has made a costume for: that will be Gal Gadot’s gladiatrix powersuit in Wonder Woman (release June 1st).

Speaking of Wonder Woman, Canadian historian, blogger and author Tim Hanley will be holding a lecture on the famous superhero – among others – and her rocky evolution from sexy comic book heroine to power girl and, briefly, ambassador for the United Nations.

PLAY BALL Are you now getting in the mood to play dress up? Then you’re in luck! Imagine and Stichting Amsterdam Spook will host the Surrealist Ball, inspired by the decadent Rothschild masquerade ball from the 1970s. Also think about the Illuminati orgy scenes in Eyes Wide Shut… without (one assumes) the orgy part. Costumes are required, so if you're having trouble channelling your inner Alexander McQueen, 80 lucky VIP ticket holders will get a team of creative stylists and makeup artists to assist.

THRILLS & CHILLS Of course, there will also be lots and lots of film, with special attention to debut features, like Raw (directed by Julia Ducournau), a French coming-of-age drama and… zombie film. In collaboration with Cinema Egzotik, a ‘giallo’ double bill (the highly stylised and gory Italian horror films of the '60s and '70s) will feature Suspiria (Dario Argento). Don’t miss For the Love of Spock, an endearing documentary about one of the most beloved characters from Star Trek and the actor who immortalised him, Leonard Nimoy, directed by his son Adam; or the Japanese Godzilla reboot Shin Godzilla (Hideaki Anno, Shinji Higuchi).

A bit strapped for time? No worries. On the final Sunday, the festival will screen a best of programme, consisting of five or six of this year’s favourite films.

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highlight Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

Roze Filmdagen

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lot has changed for the better since the very first edition of the Roze Filmdagen (Amsterdam LGBTQ Film Festival) in 1996 at Filmhuis Cavia. In the beginning there were barely any available films focused on the LGBTQ community. It wasn’t just that mainstream theatres weren’t screening LGBTQ themed films; there wasn’t really much to begin with. Thankfully, supply isn’t the issue anymore, which doesn’t mean the festival is now obsolete.

Still only a fraction of the movies make it to the theatres.

Visibility is key, knows the festival's Artistic Director Werner Borkes. ‘We’ve all been brought up with straight stories about straight heroes and straight love. It’s so important, not only for our community, but also for students, to be able to see your own stories, and to see different stories.

That’s why we’re also hosting educational screenings.’

There are other developments: ‘In the early days, most LGBTQ themed movies were about the difficulties surrounding being LGBTQ. But now, more and more movies are dealing with different forms of sexuality not as a problem that has to be dealt with, but as a fact.’ The public has become more diverse as well. ‘We get a lot more film fans from outside the community to the festival, who may not directly identify themselves with the LGBTQ stamp, but who are also interested in seeing different, interesting stories.’

As usual, the festival will screen mostly recent films that are unlikely to make it to Dutch theatres anytime soon, among them the very first Armenian LGBTQ film, Apricot Groves.

But, since this is the 20th edition, the festival will also take the time to look back during a special programme in the first weekend of March at Filmhuis Cavia, the place where it all began.

9-19 MARCH Het Ketelhuis, Pazzanistraat 3 MARCH Filmhuis Cavia, Van Hallstraat 52 rozefilmdagen.nl

nightlife essentials DGTL The quintessential NDSM party goes on for the entire weekend with a huge line-up in which quantity sometimes seems to be favoured over quality. There are a few very notable highlights though: Skatebård, an all-round Norwegian artist whose productions are informed by both Italo disco and the best of mid-'90s banging house, and Redshape, a producer of crystal clear, Detroit-like techno. Day two has a much more sophisticated line-up with DJs including Motor City Drum Ensemble, energetic house DJ/producer Koze, South Africa’s hot name Black Coffee, Midland, and Dixon, #1 in Resident Advisor’s Top 100. If you only go for one day, let it be Sunday.

15-16 April NDSM dgtl.nl

AWAKENINGS: 20 YEARS Twenty years of raving to all kinds of techno… It all happened at the Gashouder, and the organising party has always been monumental. A series of four parties – including a daytime bash on Saturday – celebrate this serious milestone, featuring an incredible roster of artists such as former RoXY residents Dimitri and Remy, Detroit legend Kevin Saunderson b2b Derrick May, and good old Jeff Mills – he just won’t quit, and we’re grateful. Day 4 leaves slightly more room for house and slower paced techno, because it’s time to wind down and get ready for Monday. Right?

13-16 April Gashouder awakenings.com

veteran party duo Optimo, German house and techno hotshot Âme, Dekmantel founders Casper Tielrooij & Thomas Martojo, and many more.

27 April Blijburg oranjebloesem.com

THE JESUS AND MARY CHAIN

Emerging from the post-punk scene of the early '80s, these Scottish indie noise merchants weren't the first band to bury pop music under waves of fuzz and distortion, but they were probably one of the first to make a chart career out of the artform. While the group violently exploded back in the '90s, only eventually reforming for 'greatest hits' shows in 2007, this tour marks the first time since that they'll be promoting new material (from the new album Damage and Joy), preventing a pure nostagia-fest.

19 April Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl

25 YEARS DJ ISIS

DJ Isis entered the scene as a very young protégée of two key figures in the young Amsterdam house scene: Dimitri and Marcello. See her spin a sixhour set of both classic and new house and techno in Paradiso’s main room, alongside Kraut, Trippin Jaguar and Yør Kultura – who are set to DJ upstairs.

29 April Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl

CROSS-LINX FESTIVAL

This annual, multi-city festival straddles musical boundaries by promoting refreshing combinations of indie and classical music. Headliners include Norwegian singer-songwriter Ane Brun, who'll be performing an orchestral-inspired concert ORANJEBLOESEMS with Zapp4. Esoteric Danish One of the best King’s Day parties in town is off the beat- indie poppers Efterklang make en track in the East of the city a return to the Netherlands with The Happy Hopeless with a great view on the IJ Orchestra; plus, there's hauntlake. The line-up couldn’t be ing singer-songwriter DM Stith, more diverse, with Kompakt operatic indie all-rounder My label boss Michael Mayer, Northern Irish techno produc- Brightest Diamond and many ers Feel My Bicep, the brilliant more bands and ensembles.

Expect some spectacular pop Ghanaian producer Ata Kak (who recently stepped out of elements throughout, but with total obscurity with a release plenty of twists along the way.

5 March on the Awesome Tapes from Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ / Bimhuis Africa label), Glasgow’s cross-linx.nl

IAMEXPAT FAIR AMSTERDAM Westergasfabriek March 25th, 2017 10:00–17:00 For global citizens with local needs The IamExpat Fair is a truly international event designed to support the expat community in the Netherlands.

Attend free workshops and connect with businesses in: Career, Education, Housing, Expat Services, Family & Kids, Health & Leisure.

BOOK YOUR FREE TICKET AT WWW.IAMEXPATFAIR.NL

Address Westergasfabriek, Pazzanistraat 37, 1014 DB, Amsterdam · Public transport Tram 10 (stop Van Limburg Stirumstraat) or Bus 21 (stop Van Hallstraat) · Parking QPark, Van Bleiswijkstraat 8, 1051 DG, Amsterdam · More practical info on amsterdam.iamexpatfair.nl/visitor-info

Financial Coaching

27.01.2017 - 20.06.2017

ARTIST | INVENTOR | GENIUS TICKETS ADULTS: €11,50 PRESALE

www.DaVinci.Amsterdam

BEURS VAN BERLAGE

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mar & apr 2017

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘PLANTAGE IS BEING REVITALISED, TO BE INCLUDED IN THE LARGER WHOLE OF THE CITY CENTRE, WHERE ALL THE PARTS ADD UP TO A MAGNIFICENT AREA.’ Erik de Jong, the ARTIS professor

34 40 42 44 46 47

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: PLANTAGE EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE COLUMN

YADA YADA Every weekend (Friday through Sunday), the Hembrug Eventpark plays host to Yada Yada, a festive market with more than 90 stalls serving street food from all around the world and showing off artisan-crafted fashion and wares. After wolfing down Astrid's Surinamese delicacies at Caribbean Touch, Sea & Soul's fresh fish or a luscious lamb, beef or pulled pork burger from Burger & Co's, you can get travel advice from Marc who’ll tickle your wanderlust; try on Aminata’s bold and colourful Senegalese jewellery; or admire the latest selection of South African arts and crafts. There's now a free shuttle service direct from Zaandam Station to Yada Yada, so you have no excuse to avoid a fun-filled weekend.

Every Fri & Sat (16:00-22:00) and Sun (12:00-20:00) Hembrug Eventpark, Grote Hulzen 42, Zaandam www.yadayadamarket.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

PLANTAGE

LOLA VAN DEUDEKOM AND HER FRIENDS, 13 student

‘Artis is great, and I think they take good care of the animals – even though it would be more exciting if we could walk in the enclosures and see them from up close and touch them!’

neighbourhood watch

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Nature and culture meet in this tranquil neighbourhood with a wild past, interrupting the half-moon of the Canal Belt with a luscious park-like design. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock

A beautiful anomaly

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n 1682, the local government decided it wasn’t interested in extending the Canal belt in the new neighbourhood that was developing on the eastern side of the centre, adjacent to the harbour. They wanted a park instead: a wide open, lush green space. Large avenues were designed on a geometric grid and a lot of Linden trees were planted: the Plantage (‘Plantation’) was born.

While today such a beautiful, relaxed neighbourhood would target higherincome residents, back then it was geared towards middle and lowerclass Amsterdammers.

In fact, the Plantage quickly became party central. As Dr Erik de Jong, ARTIS Professor of Nature, Culture and Landscape at the University of Amsterdam, puts it: ‘You saw a lot of dismal behaviour. The greenery invited a more relaxed attitude, and people allowed themselves to do things they wouldn’t otherwise. Men peed on the trees!’ (He neglects to add that they also frequented prostitutes.) He explains that Protestant preachers even tried to forbid walking on Sundays – in an area meant for strolls, of all things…

Needless to say, such governing attempts failed, and the Plantage’s free spirit continued to blossom. By the end of the 18th century, the atmos-

phere was not only festive but increasingly rich in culture, with entertainment like theatres and even scientific institutions sprouting up.

With the establishment of the Plantage the city planners had also revamped the Hortus, the former apothecary garden that stands guard at the entrance to the neighbourhood. Since its opening in 1638, the Hortus had provided local doctors with medicinal herbs. Starting in the 17th century, Golden Age explorers sailed back to their Dutch homeland with ships full of plants and flowers from faraway shores, and the botanical garden became the proud repository of these exotic marvels. When Napoleon became King of Holland, he had a whim to transform the Hortus into a new version of the French Jardin des Plantes; and the area had such panache that it was even considered as a location for a new royal palace.

NATURE AND NURTURE The gem – and defining institution – of the Plantage is most certainly ARTIS, the Amsterdam Royal Zoo. What is now the city’s famous sprawling zoo started out in 1838 as the Society Natura Artis Magistra. Its reverence for the humanities is clear in the title, now its motto: ‘Nature is

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

'Plantage is a mirror of Museumplein, focused on nature, science, ethnography and history' the teacher of art and science’. The initiators started buying small gardens and slowly built them into a park. ‘It was intended as a collection of living animals, with a library, an aquarium, a natural and geological museum and a garden with living plants. It was all about culture and man’s position in the world,’ explains Professor De Jong. At its inception, the zoo had only a couple of parrots and monkeys and a wildcat from Suriname, but it was an important and madly popular intellectual endeavour at a time when science mattered more than the arts.

According to De Jong, ‘In the mid-19th century, more money was spent acquiring a lion than a Rembrandt.’ Zoo membership thus became a prized status.

As ARTIS grew, it was at the forefront of architectural prowess with its greenhouses made from modern materials such as iron and glass. It was also considered a mover and shaker in civil rights: its membership was open to women as early as 1842, a bold step towards a then-rare intellectual emancipation.

What cemented the Plantage’s reputation as a leader in higher cultural pursuits was the opening of the University of Amsterdam’s second campus in 1872. This brought zoological and botanical collections, laboratories, and of course both established and aspiring scientists and researchers. ‘The Plantage was very central in natural history endeavours,’ concludes De Jong, and all this scholarly effervescence brought in even more theatres and cultural institutions, such as the Schouwburg and Carré theatres and the Plancius Jewish choral society.

HORTUS BOTANICUS The Hortus, founded in 1638 as an herb garden for medicinal purposes, is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. It became the repository of the floral treasures brought back by Dutch explorers during the Golden Age – including King Willem III’s extensive collection. At the Hortus, tantalising exotic beauties were not only admired but also studied by scientists. Today the Hortus is home to some 6,000 plant species, exhibited in its gardens and magnificent greenhouses. Its rare books and extensive collection of drawings still serve as inspiration to botanists worldwide. For the rest of us, there’s no better city escape than spending a couple of hours in the company of butterflies or enjoying an orange juice under the shade of the leafy café.

Plantage Middenlaan 2A dehortus.nl

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DEATH AND REBIRTH When World War II struck, though, the flourishing neighbourhood lost its luster in a heartbeat.

Plantage was home to much of Amsterdam’s

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HERMITAGE MUSEUM The little sister of the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg was built at the end of the 17th century as a retirement home, the Amstelhof, which closed in 2007. The imposing, 102-meter-long building sheltered behind a serene classical courtyard provides a rare chance to admire the immense art collection of its Russian counterpart, with temporary exhibitions such as the current 1917: Romanovs and Revolution (see page 23).

Amstel 51 hermitage.nl

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CARRÉ THEATRE Originally built by Oscar Carré as a stone tent for his travelling circus in 1887, the city’s most illustrious theatre now hosts everything from cabaret and flamenco dance to stand-up comedy, theatre, opera and pop music. Upcoming shows include a visit from Elvis Costello (8 March), the Nederlandse Reisopera’s production of Don Giovanni (9-11 March) and the Dutch revival of Broadway musical A Chorus Line (6-9 April).

Amstel 115/125 carre.nl

FILM THEATRE KRITERION Resistance fighters founded the Kriterion in 1945 as a student-run cinema. Here, undergraduates supported their studies in a bleak postwar landscape. Kriterion is still democratically-run by students, and has earned a place in the hearts of indie filmgoers with its eclectic mix of first run features, contemporary classics, film festivals and a hopping café-bar.

Roetersstraat 170 kriterion.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

T ETEN & DRINKEN This little neighbourhood café is not only warm and charming. Its delicious menu varies from the usual fare with a selection of healthy salads, soups and sandwiches: warm goat cheese paired with marinated pumpkin, or brie with caramelised onions sprinkled with balsamic dressing. What makes it truly special is the high tea plates, a sinful abundance of mini sandwiches and quiches, scones, and slices of amazing homemade pies and pastries.

Roeterstraat 4 t-etenendrinken.nl

PLANCIUS RESTAURANT This popular bistro has the usual hearty, satisfying fare (sandwiches, burgers, pasta dishes and chicken sate among many others) and is housed in the gorgeous historic building that was originally built in 1875 as a rehearsal and performance space by the Jewish choral society Oefening Baart Kunst (Practice Creates Art). Today the bright yellow façade is home to the friendly restaurant and the Resistance Museum next door.

Plantage Kerklaan 61 restaurantplancius.nl

ARTIS AMSTERDAM ROYAL ZOO Originally created in 1838 as a members-only playground where nature, science and art converged, ARTIS threw open its iron gates to the public in 1920 as a more traditional zoo. Today it boasts 484 animal species, 770 trees amidst flowering gardens and 26 nationally-listed buildings. Among the recently opened exhibits are Micropia, the exquisitely interactive microbe museum, and an enclosure for jaguars, which we’ve been told are savage, untameable beasts (unlike the lions who’ll do anything for a steak).

Current expansion plans include a new elephant enclosure and the renovation of the 'Great Museum', an ode to the relationship between humans and nature.

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 artis.nl

VERZETSMUSEUM (RESISTANCE MUSEUM) The Nazi occupation of the Netherlands from 1940-45 was not a commendable era. But in an attempt at creating understanding, this museum brings it – and all its attendant ethical dilemmas – to life via photographs, documents and video. Particularly moving are the farewell letters, hiking boots and other items that once belonged to Dutch people – both resisters and those just trying to make it through another hellish day.

The Resistance Museum is a mix of the mundane and the not-soon-forgotten heroic.

Plantage Kerklaan 61A verzetsmuseum.org

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MAX BLOMAARD, 20

student in economics and business at uva

‘Because of the university, there are a lot of cool hang-outs and cafés, such as the Kriterion right around the corner.’

MICHEL LUGAS, 35 social worker

‘It’s a terrific neighbourhood, with a balanced mixture of locals and tourists. It’s nice to work in such surroundings – it’s so green, like a great park.’

RESTAURANT ELKAAR In 1811 Napoleon rode victoriously through the neo-classical Muiderpoort city gate with his entourage, and promptly demanded refreshments. If he’d done so today, he would have found a charming nearby restaurant where he might have dined on smoked duck with an onion crumble, deer served with Jerusalem artichokes and caramelised pear, and a coffee ganache sprinkled with crunchy banana slices that will make you tear up with joy. This petite restaurant in the Plantage is the perfect setting for date nights, with its classic candle-lit tables set far enough apart for whispered conversations about sweet nothings… or world domination.

Alexanderplein 6 etenbijelkaar.nl

Jewish community, and it sustained terrible physical and moral damage. The Schouwburg and even Plancius became deportation centres. While the Director of ARTIS hid as many persecuted people as he could in storerooms above the animal cages, the Resistance tried to bomb one of the park’s buildings where identification papers were being kept. After the war, the Plantage, heavy with its dark history, fell into neglect.

‘It had been a booming neighbourhood – and then horror,’ says Hester Schölvinck, Project Manager of the cultural cooperative Plantage Amsterdam. ‘For a long period it was not a happy, warm neighbourhood.’

Still, the area hasn’t lost its inherent beauty, with its quaint parks, private gardens and white and brick gabled façades that often sport cascades of colourful plants and flowers. For many residents it is a quiet, green abode with a lot of cachet. ARTIS has worked hard to open a new café-restaurant (the Plantage, a large, airy bistrot on Artisplein that’s open to non-zoo visitors), thrilling exhibitions such as Micropia and the brand new jaguar enclosure. This year the elephants will get a new, much more spacious yard, specifically designed to ac-

commodate the pachyderms’ behavioural habits in the wild. One of the biggest longterm projects is the restoration of the 'Great Museum for Man and Nature', which dates back to 1852 and has been closed for 80 years. ARTIS, which strives to be active and community-centred, is planning to host exhibitions as well as a communal workplace to explore new relationships between humans and nature.

These renewal projects aren't lost on the local government, which sees an opportunity to alleviate the centre’s congestion.

According to Professor De Jong, ‘the municipality is now preparing the renovation of the Plantage as a whole.’ Automobile and tram traffic will be rethought and pedestrian areas and smaller parks will be rejuvenated, all with the same eco-conscious spirit that has driven the city in the past years. ‘They want to reinforce its green, gardenesque character. After all, the Plantage is the alternative Museum Quarter – a mirror of the Museumplein, focused on nature, science, ethnography and history. All of this will be revitalised and included in the larger whole of the city centre, where all parts add up to a magnificent area.’

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

eating out

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers

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text Karin Engelbrecht

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Javastraat 40 facebook.com/thewalrusand thecarpenteramsterdam

NEW © MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

The latest in a frenzy of fish bar openings in the city is an easy-going eatery in fastgentrifying Javastraat, with a décor that embraces nautical clichés. There are life buoys on sea green walls, fishnet lamps, driftwood and a large mural depicting Lewis Carroll’s characters, for whom the restaurant was named. In the eponymous poem, a walrus and a carpenter lure a bevvy of big oysters from their bed for ‘a pleasant walk’, only to gobble them up ‘along the briny beach’. Fittingly, oysters play a prominent role here, with at least four varieties on offer daily and an oyster happy hour on Sundays (from 15:00-16:00) with creuses – so fat and fresh you can still taste the ocean – for €1.00 each.

The rest of the menu is reasonably priced too, with offerings such as crunchy calamari (€7.00), perfectly cooked razor clams (€6.50) and simple fish and chips (€12.50).

Of course, there’s a good selection of bubbles and whites, but we were far more impressed by the clever pairings with local craft beers, such as Oedipus Brewery’s sensational Swingers, ‘the first Dutch Gose beer’, made with Citra hops, grapefruit, lime and sea salt, a zingy counterbalance to all that rich protein.

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THE WALRUS & THE CARPENTER

41 trendy FA. PEKELHAARING The cross-generational clientele somehow suits the mismatched furnishings at this quirkily named café-restaurant, which has become a neighbourhood favourite for its reliable Med-led cuisine and casual vibe. The food is affordable and unpretentious: think deep-fried sprats with lemon (€6.50), classic beef tagliata with rocket, balsamic vinegar and shaved Parmesan (€19.50) and vegetarian lasagne with portobello mushrooms and spinach (€13.50). Dessert’s a no-brainer: the white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce (€6.50) is renowned.

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Van Woustraat 127-129 pekelhaaring.nl

critic’s choice FOODHALLEN

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msterdam’s hip high-end indoor food court is still drawing in the crowds two and a half years after opening, but the recent addition of a number of new stands is an excellent excuse to (re)visit. Try Taqueria Lima West’s chipotle braised beef tacos with fresh herb salsa, pickled cactus and sour lime cream (two small soft tacos for €7.00), Pita’s top shelf chicken döner kebab with housemade garlic sauce and harissa (from €6.50) or Dimsunting’s Hong Kong fusion creations. Don’t forget to admire the former tram depot’s original features – exposed tram rails, raw brickwork walls, arched olive doors, soaring glass ceilings – and check out the adjacent shops.

Bellamyplein 51 foodhallen.nl

classic DIGNITA

quick & simple BOI BOI Classic Thai cuisine contrasts a contemporary décor with graphic white-on-black designs, whimsical window art and a monkey mascot. Share the mixed appetiser platter (€9.45), followed by an aromatic massaman curry with lamb shoulder, sweet potato and coconut milk (€18.95), and wash it all down with house brand Bok Bok bock beer.

Dapperstraat 12 boiboi.nl

Head to Zuid for a healthy yet delicious all-day brunch that goes way beyond smashed avo on toast. The courgette and chickpea fritters with grilled halloumi, minty yoghurt, yolky poached eggs and cashew nut dukkah is alone worth the trip, but there are also various smoothies, gluten-free granola bowls, homemade crumpets, eggs Benedict and stacks of lemon-poppyseed pancakes. And, if eating all that fibre doesn’t make you feel smug, knowing that 100% of the profits go to a good cause should do the trick.

Koninginneweg 218HS eatwelldogood.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste text Karin Engelbrecht

what’s on

hummus

best biscuits

AMSTERDAM COFFEE FESTIVAL

SIR HUMMUS

POPTASI PASTRY

An impressive 24-hour cooking process results in the freshest, fluffiest hummus, served with housemade pickles, Israeli olives, justbaked pita bread and salad (from €6.50). Order at the hand-crafted mosaic bar, surrounded by bags of chickpeas and cans of olive oil.

While its storefront is scaffolded out of sight, the city’s only specialist macaron shop certainly shouldn’t be out of mind. Lovely local flavours, such as hopjesvla (coffee caramel), zoete drop (liquorice), spekkoek (Indo-Dutch spice cake) and pastry chef Patrick van Drie’s signature chocolate-dipped maduche (‘macaron du chocolate’) all make for ‘dangerously delicious’ souvenirs.

Uncover Amsterdam’s creative coffee scene, see the world’s best latte artists, baristas and ‘coffee mixologists’ in action, and sample copious amounts of coffee at the buzziest festival in town (10-12 March, tickets from €12.00). Curb that caffeine rush by dancing to the DJs and live music.

Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg 8E amsterdamcoffeefestival.com

THE SPIRIT OF AMSTERDAM A 17th-century church in the old centre is a charming setting for Amsterdam’s international whisky festival on 4 March, where dram devotees can sample over 500 whiskies from around the world.

The ticket price (€39.00) includes a tasting glass plus plenty of free samplings.

Zuiderkerk Zuiderkerkhof 72 thespiritofamsterdam.com

MEIBOCK FESTIVAL Try over 40 seasonal brews, from classic golden bock beers to trendier IPAs and saisons, at this springthemed beer festival (17 April, tickets from €7.00). Or join one of beer sommelier Frans Ruiter’s workshops to discover the difference between bocks and blonds and how to use beer in cocktails.

Posthoornkerk Haarlemmerstraat 124-126 pint.nl

Van der Helstplein 2 sirhummus.nl

HUMMUS HOUSE This unassuming yet authentic Israeli restaurant can be found under a covered walkway.

Patrons, including passers-by and local Levantine cuisine lovers, come for plates heaving with silky, fromscratch hummus served with warm, pillowy pita, pickles and two sauces (from €6.99), and regional desserts that even Israeli pastry chefs would write home about.

Sint Antoniebreestraat 25C and Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 62 hummushouse.nl

HUMMUS BISTRO D&A Mismatched furniture, a corrugated iron bar, pendant lights and hanging plants create a Jerusalem market-hipster hybrid, but it’s your best bet for a proper sit-down lunch with hummus, which here provides a blank canvas for the many toppings including roasted root veggies and slow-roasted beef stew, as well as various spicy sauces, pickles and salted preserves (from €8.00).

Westerstraat 136 dna-hummusbistro.com

Gerard Doustraat 103a poptasi.com

PATISSERIE HOLTKAMP This legendary Amsterdam address carries Dutch specialities such as Amsterdamse koggetjes (the city’s official nougatine-studded cookie), krakelingen (sweet cinnamon pretzels), speculaas (spiced cookies with almonds) and the shop’s signature zonnebloem (a raspberry jam-filled sunflower cookie).

Vijzelgracht 15 patisserieholtkamp.nl

VAN STAPELE KOEKMAKERIJ This twee biscuit bakery boasts ‘the world’s best chocolate cookie’: a crispchewy chocolate shell made with rich Valrhona cocoa, encasing a soft gooey centre of melted white chocolate, served warm from the oven in pretty packaging.

Heisteeg 4 vanstapele.com

on the menu

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POKÉ

The It-Salad from Hawaii The best-balanced example we’ve tasted in town comes from Meneer Temaki at the Foodhallen, where justwarm sushi rice is topped with fresh, black sesame seed-flecked salmon in a soy-based marinade with add-ins such as avocado, edamame, chilidusted daikon and mango (€11.50, with the works).

MENEER TEMAKI (FOODHALLEN) Hannie Dankbaarpassage 16 meneertemaki.nl POKÉ PERFECT Prinsengracht 502 pokeperfect.nl THE POKÉ MARKET foodora.nl

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

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s food trends go, this one seems to tick all the right boxes: it’s a so-called ‘bowl food’ that’s fast, fresh, raw, healthy and exotic, yet affordable too. Plus, it’s not that different from more familiar favourites, such as sushi and ceviche.

So, it’s not surprising that the poké craze quickly jumped from healthconscious California (a result perhaps of the diaspora from Hawaii, where it’s a staple) to the rest of the USA, and from there across the ocean. In the last six months, two poke specialists have popped up in Amsterdam: Poké Perfect and The Poké Market (available via delivery app Foodora) and various eateries have added the dish to their menus.

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card text Imke Walenberg

IIWII CORK

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NEW IN TOWN

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t first sight the name is somewhat strange and unreadable, but you don’t need to know that it stands for It Is What It Is to want to visit this quirky shop located on a quiet side street of the Haarlemmerstraat.

IIWII sells vegan and ecosustainable accessories made out of cork. A pure and natural product made from the bark of the Evergreen Oak

tree, cork is very light and shock absorbing. It’s also a great insulator against moisture, and it has a supernatural resistance to abrasion. The shop’s owners believe that ‘it is our human duty to think, speak and act in a responsible manner,’ and add cork’s biodegradability to all these amazing qualities. Given cork's natural beauty, it's no wonder that designers jump at the chance to use this versatile gift of nature in as many

products as possible. Head to IIWII for exquisite, handmade fashion accessories made from cork: from purses, belts and bow ties to jewellery and yoga supplies.

Binnen Oranjestraat 11 iiwii-cork.nl

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inspiring TOOLZ FOR INTERIOR

kids' play

ALL KINDS OF THINGS De Kinderkledingwinkel, the kids’ clothing store at Beethovenstraat 19, recently went through a complete makeover and is now a hip and happening concept store named All Kinds of Things. Not only does the shop carry great children's fashion (with brands like Name It, Kik-kid and Minimize), but it’s become a world full of toys and beautiful illustrated books. Parents can also indulge – for once – with the lovely selection of gift products like kitchen towels and coffee mugs. On top of all this, All Kinds of Things also organises workshops and masterclasses.

Formerly Vitrapoint, this design store isn’t just a stop and shop kind of place.

Toolz for Interior creates sustainable interior concepts for companies and individuals, from A to Z. You don't want an entire new home design, but do need some good interior advice or inspiration? Toolz for Interior is a design studio, showroom and shop all in one, so wander off to De Pijp and stop by to get professional advice, find ideas for your perfect home, or simply pick out a smashing new piece from their selection of brands such as Hay, Pols Potten and Vitra. toolzforinterior.nl Gerard Doustraat 246-248

allkindsofthings.nl Beethovenstraat 19

heads up DEMURE COUTURE HATS Are you one of the lucky few with a perfect head for hats? Then you’ll enjoy a visit to this gem of a shop, which just opened last October. Hat shops may sound dusty and old-fashioned to you, but nothing could be less true at Demure. Owner and designer Yuki Isshiki buys vintage fabrics and transforms them into all kinds of fancy, trendy headwear such as caps, trilbies and even the classic bowler (with a modern twist, that is). It's not difficult to fall in love with one – or many – of her beautiful designs! demure.nl Korte Marnixstraat 5

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

what's in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home

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text Imke Walenberg

HOOKS & YARN The days are long gone when your grandma, on her recliner by the fireplace, was the only knitter. Now everyone is picking up needles (even without their mothers) to revel in producing beautiful yarn work. At Hooks and Yarn, near Mercatorplein, you can lose yourself in piles of wool, knitting needles and patterns for your next project.

What will it be: a chunky scarf, a warm sweater, or a hat?

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Balboastraat 24 hooksandyarn.nl

FALKE Most of you will know the German brand Falke from their legwear for women (fun detail: they made Germany’s first nylon pantyhose). But they’re also famous for their hiking socks, and a huge variety of warm foot and legwear including a luxury line that mixes classic cuts and materials with original colours. In the heart of Amsterdam, the walls of the Falke shop are all full of socks: no doubt you'll find your perfect pair.

Leidsestraat 21 falke.com

NO LABEL Last October, the company No Label opened its first flagship store in Amsterdam. Are you searching for a good suit with a perfect fit that is, just as importantly, affordable? Then No Label is the right place to go. The owners’ motto is ‘what you see is what you get’. That translates into quality designs and fabrics, but no fuss concerning the shop interior or marketing tools. For swell suits with the right price tag you're at the right address!

Willemsparkweg 66 www.nolabel.nl

SAM FRIDAY Finding underwear that is fashionable, affordable, comfortable and also sexy is not the easiest mission. Until you step into the wonderful world of Sam Friday.

You’ll not only find stylish intimates for both men and women, but also a cosy line of hangout wear. The hoodies and sweatpants will make you long for a lazy Sunday on the couch.

Huidenstraat 16 samfriday.com/nl

X BANK Home to 180 Dutch labels, X Bank offers 700m² of fashion, art and design, representing premium, upcoming and influential brands such as Bananatime, Kings of Indigo, Spijkers & Spijkers and United Nude. The ground floor is an open gallery where new and established artists get centre stage for their photography, art, sculptures and more –and where talks, lectures or large exhibitions are regularly organised in this hybrid store that's earned its reputation as the epicentre of Dutch Design.

Spuistraat 172 xbank.amsterdam

LINCHERIE Lingerie label Lincherie just recently opened its first Lincherie Styling Center in the Nine Streets. The store combines on and offline shopping; instead of actual stock it has a 3D mirror and you can get a ton of personal advice and enjoy a hot cup of coffee while trying on sample bras in various models and sizes.

Huidenstraat 28 lincherie.nl

THE COOL COLLECTIVE Amsterdam-Oost gets better and more vibrant every day; shops are popping up like tulips in springtime. One of them is The Cool Collective, a temporary concept store for affordable fashion brands, lifestyle and vintage furniture. You can find brands like Maison Scotch and Cup of Joe at – here’s the most interesting part – a nice discount.

Insider secret: rumour has it that the store is here to stay.

Oranje Vrijstaatplein 3 www.coolcollectiveamsterdam.nl

SIBIN Near the Albert Cuypmarket you can find a little shop called Sibin. This store carries classy and casual women's fashion with a little edge. The collections change often (weekly), which will make finding new must-haves and treasures – all at surprisingly affordable prices – easy at every visit.

Van Woustraat 52 sibin.nl

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When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

THE KING (AND QUEEN) AND I

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Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

s King’s Day rolls around this year, I’m looking to the Queen—Maxima, an Argentinean commoner-cumroyal by marriage and beloved by all. With three daughters waiting in line for the throne, it’s only a matter of time until we celebrate Queen’s Day once again. The Dutch had been doing this since 1891 until Willem-Alexander, upon being crowned king in 2013, inaugurated King’s Day on his own 27 April birthday.

I met Maxima at a press event several years ago, when she was still a princess with three little princesses of her own. I myself had two young princesses, who at the time were all about Cinderella and pink and fairy godmothers. We weren’t allowed to ask the royals questions, but I couldn’t help myself. ‘Do your daughters understand that you—and they— are princesses?’ I asked. I just couldn’t comprehend how a four-year-old could distinguish between Snow White and the real deal.

They see I work very hard, Maxima told me, so it’s different from what they see in the films. As her girls grow up, we mostly see them in press-approved photos. A strict media agreement means the royal family comes out just twice annually for photo ops in exchange for privacy the rest of the year.

But sometimes we see them looking decidedly common, as when first-in-line to the throne Amalia hopped on a bike like all Dutch 11-year-olds and cycled to her inaugural day

at her Hague middle school. Indeed, Dutch royalty is seen as pretty down to earth compared to other regal rulers. Queen Juliana, Willem-Alexander’s grandmother, was regarded as the ‘mother’ of the nation. And even though his mother ruled with a more formal hand, Queen Bea, as she was affectionately known, kept popularity for the royal family above the 80 percent mark.

Willem-Alexander and Maxima seem to be following in the somewhat plebeian footsteps of their ancestors. Princesses Amalia, Alexia and Ariane, his ‘A-team’ as the King calls them, attend regular public schools just like their father and grandmother did before them. They play hockey at a local club like most Dutch girls. Queen Maxima was even a ‘lice mother’ at her daughters’ school, checking the children for creepy crawlers.

The King has said that his wife helps to keep him down to earth as he strives to be both a ‘modern king’ and a symbol of ‘continuity and unity.’ He’ll likely need all the help he can get after the divisive elections in March, as the populist ‘make the Netherlands ours again’ mantra has been extremely loud and incredibly close. Just as Queen Wilhelmina broadcast her Radio Orange messages from exile in London during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands, perhaps today’s royal couple with their nods to commoner culture will offer a beacon of reassuring stability in these oh-so-turbulent times.

NOW Available in Available inthe the I amsterdam Store

Amsterdam CS, IJ-zijde

Amsterdam CS, IJ-zijde

BEST OF AMSTER DAM

PART IV

THE

mar & apr 2017

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FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

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For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

Who hasn’t seen Grumpy Cat’s ancestor, the surly black cat with gruff yellow eyes and razor-sharp claws, hanging on the wall of some Frenchinspired bistro or student dorm room? The 1896 painting

by Théophile Alexandre Steinlein is one of the many iconic images displayed at the Van Gogh Museum during the Prints in Paris 1900: From Elite to the Street exhibition, a retrospective of the new art form that took fin-de-siècle Paris by storm with the advent of colour printing. In addition to the most famous pieces such as the Divan Japonais’s red head or the Moulin Rouge’s polka-dotted dancer, the Van Gogh Museum will show some rarely-seen prints of their 1,800+ collection, designed for theatres or private collectors by such illustrious artists as Toulouse-Lautrec or Bonnard.

FROM 3 MARCH Van Gogh Museum, Museumplein 6 vangoghmuseum.nl

© POSTER FOR THE TOUR OF LE CHAT NOIR THÉOPHILE ALEXANDRE STEINLEN, 1896

PRINTS IN PARIS

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS Choice exhibit TEMPORARY

JEAN TINGUELY – MACHINE SPECTACLE Swiss artist Jean Tinguely is famous for his playful, boldly kinetic machines and explosive performances. Twenty-five years after his death, the Stedelijk Museum mounts the largest ever Dutch retrospective of the artist's work, including machine sculptures, films, photos, drawings and archive materials.

Stedelijk Museum, until 5 Mar HIROSHI SUGIMOTO BLACK BOX Celebrated Japanese photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto has been compared to Mark Rothko for his abstract images, which frequently have a meditative quality. His seascapes and compositions of animals use atmospheric natural light in beautiful and unexpected ways. The exhibition 'Black Box' presents an overview of his artistic style – including excerpts from acclaimed series such as 'Lightning Fields', 'Seascapes' and 'Diaoramas' – and is the perfect introduction to the photographer.

Foam, until 8 Mar REN HANG - NAKED/NUDE Foam exhibits the explicit photographs of Ren Hang. The young Chinese artist notably pairs naked youths with the likes of swans, peacocks, fish, snakes, cherries, apples, flowers, plants and trees, as absurd yet poetic accessories.

Foam, until 12 Mar MARINUS BOEZEM Marinus Boezem, renowned for bringing conceptual art to the Netherlands in the 1960s, will transform the Oude Kerk, the oldest church and oldest

MASTERPIECE 2017 Each year De Nieuwe Kerk presents a singular major masterwork from a world renowned artist that's inspired by a religion. Previous artworks showcased were by Rembrandt, Warhol, Bacon, Tristan and Chagall. And by focusing on only one major work per year, the museum aims to recreate the experience of a pilgrimage for visitors as they absorb it wholly.

This year, attention is shone on El Greco's 'Pentecost', a 400-year-old altarpiece showing the 12 apostles and Mary as a dove looks down on them from heaven.

De Nieuwe Kerk, until 9 Apr GLENN BROWN – REMBRANDT: AFTER LIFE Transforming the works of the Old Masters into surreal, alien expressions, British contemporary artist Glenn Brown offers fresh perspectives on familiar visual histories. In this ground-breaking collaboration, the works of the Dutch master and his contemporaries are appropriated by and subverted in surprising and often confrontational ways by Brown, who counts the likes of Tracy Emin and Damien Hurst amongst his peers. The exhibition includes brand new works created especially for the occasion, on display here for the first time.

Rembrandt House Museum, until 23 April EL ANATSUI Ghana-born artist, El Anatsui, is a sculptor of glittering metallic tapestries made from bottle tops sewn together with copper thread. The large-scale works have earned him global recognition as one of today’s most influential contemporary artists.

Prince Claus Fund Gallery, until 28 April TOM CALLEMIN In a reaction against the fast-paced modern world we have come to accept, Flemish photographer Tom Callemin aims to slow time in a series of captivating photographs.

His intimate portraits have an underlying darkness, with subjects commonly shrouded

© JONATHAN BACHMAN

WORLD PRESS PHOTO The winning images from the world's most prestigious annual press photography contest begin their world tour in Amsterdam each year. This collection of images not only presents the (at times gruesome) reality of events on the world stage, but also the beauty of life, sports, art, science and nature.

With 2016 regarded as an especially turbulent year by many, the exhibitions is sure to represent the highs and lows of the human condition around the world.

De Nieuwe Kerk, 15 Apr-9 Jul

DAISUKE YOKOTA MATTER Daisuke Yokota's installations revolve around the tactile aspects of photography, where the outcome of the artwork is not determined by the camera, but by experiments with the material forms of the medium. In this exhibition, Yokota focuses on the aspect of volume and material of photography, pushing the medium and its perception forward into ever more original directions. In his new works it's never the image being reprinted or reinvented, but the physical photo print and film.

Foam, 17 Mar-4 Jun

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CHRYSTEL LEBAS: REGARDING NATURE French photographer Chrystel Lebas was commissioned to create new works based on a set of anonymous glass plates featuring exquisite landscapes.

The plates turned out to be created by famed British botanist and ecologist Edward James Salisbury, and took Lebas on a four-year journey through the rugged forests of Scotland and Norfolk as she retraced his steps and interpreted his vision.

Huis Marseille, until 5 Mar

BENIDORM - OVER WINTERTIJD The Spanish resort town famous for expat retirees provides the beautiful backdrop for Romi Tweebeeke’s new exhibition, 'Benidorm'.

Her compelling photographs document the ageing process and feature modern retirees who are sociable, active and enjoy a new lease of life in the sunshine.

Melkweg Gallery, 4 Mar-9 Apr

© HENRI DE TOULOUSE-LAUTREC, 1893

THEO BAART & CARYMARKERINK A treasured, leather-bound photo album produced in the 19th century by French photographer Édouard Baldus was the inspiration for this contemporary photo series by Theo Baart and Cary Markerink. This exhibition showcases recreations of Baldus’ work along with modern-day interpretations as they follow in his footsteps.

Huis Marseilles, until 5 Mar

© DAISUKE YOKOTA

EXHIBITIONS

building in Amsterdam, into an interactive installation.

Visitors can see the space from new perspectives (and heights, if they dare) and appear and disappear within it.

Oude Kerk, until 26 Mar

PRINTS IN PARIS 1900 Paris in the Belle Époque was a heady concoction of glitzy nightclubs, haute couture, absinthe-fuelled art and bohemian ideals.

It was also a time when printmaking soared to the prestige of high art and prints of La Chat Noir and the Moulin Rouge reached their iconic status. The Van Gogh Museum has one of the largest print collections from 1890 to 1905, and presents them in an exhibition that takes you through the boulevards of Paris at the fin de siècle.

Van Gogh Museum, 3 Mar-11 Jun

in shadow, or poised at a moment the viewer feels they were not supposed to see.

De Brakke Grond, until 30 Apr

collage style. The exhibition presents many such posters, printed matter, films and art.

Stedelijk Museum, until 30 Apr

CONSTRUCTING THE NEW MAN Following the Russian Revolution and civil war (1917-1922), the Soviet regime introduced economic reforms, utilising posters and film as powerful propaganda tools. More than 100 films from all over the world were released each year, together with films by Russian directors like Sergei Eisenstein and Dziga Vertov. Hand-inhand with this movement was the bloom of political posters, iconic for their typography and

100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL: READY FOR TAKE-OFF On 19 September 1916, a small plane landed for the first time in muddy pasture by some wooden farm sheds in Haarlemmermeer. 100 years later, where can Amsterdam Airport Schiphol expand to next? Play air traffic control games, see a WWII bomb and figure out the future of Schiphol at this special centenary exhibition.

Amsterdam Museum, until 7 May

MODERN CANDOR – THE STRUGGLE FOR THE FALKLAND ISLANDS / ISLAS MALVINAS Jasmijn Visser combines maps and books from the Special Collections with infographics that she made in collaboration with Metahaven for the publication 'Conflict Atlas'.

She spent three months on the Falkland Islands and researched how, from the first moments of exploration, world powers have influenced the landscape, politics and social sphere of the islands.

Allard Pierson Museum, until 7 May SHAKESPEARENL An exhibition exploring the impact and influence of Shakespeare in the Netherlands. The English playwright remains omnipresent in the Dutch theatre scene, from classical presentations to modern-day interpretations. Here you'll find old and new posters, costumes, books and models from the University of Amsterdam's Special Collections, compiled by Hans van Keulen and Rob van der Zalm.

Special Collections, until 7 May BÉLA TARR - TILL THE END OF THE WORLD Enter the world of Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr, regarded worldwide as one of the most important and influential film authors of the past 30 years.

Tarr is a master of the long take, of wonderfully shot, languid, melancholic films that express the human condition.

Here he's developed an exhibition that is a cross between a film, a theatre set and an installation, aiming to give a voice to the vast numbers of migrants who have been left stranded in Europe over the past two years.

EYE Filmmuseum, until 7 May CITY AT WAR Photos of Amsterdam from 1940-1945, when the city was occupied by the Nazis. The newly found images paint a realistic portrait of what citizens endured during the period, from collaboration to resistance.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 14 May ENRICO BAJ: PLAY AS PROTEST An extensive selection from the works of the Italian artist Enrico Baj (1924-2003). The exhibition displays around 100 of the artist's works dating from the '50s, '60s and '70s, which, while looking playful, colourful and humorous, they simultaneously showed his sharp socio-critical attitude.

Cobra Museum, until 14 May STAR-VU TEN YEARS OF PHOTO ACQUISITIONS THANKS TO BAKER & MCKENZIE The Rijksmuseum showcases photographs from its collection by iconic 20th-century

mar & apr 2017

DE STIJL AT THE STEDELIJK In 2017 Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum joins in a nationwide celebration of 100 years since the art movement known as De Stijl began. This momentous exhibition fills six galleries with works by Piet Mondrian, Gerrit Rietveld, Theo van Doesburg and a host of artists who were influenced by those iconic primary colours and geometric shapes. What's more, the exhibition explores the relationships between the original De Stijl works and many other artists associated with the museum's collection, such as Bas Jan Ader and Roy Lichtenstein.

Stedelijk Museum, until 21 May ABN AMRO ART AWARD 2016: MARIJN VAN KREIJ Van Kriej, winner of the 2016 ABN AMRO Art Award, presents 'Reclining Nude with Man Playing the Guitar'. It's built around a new series of monumental paintings on paper in which he carefully chose details from late paintings of Picasso to serve as a point of departure. He copied the fragments meticulously and arranged them into a single repetitive pattern of stacked horizontal rows.

Hermitage, until 28 May TURKISH TULIPS: GAVIN TURK The Dutch national flower is represented as a symbol of trade and exploration in a new exhibition at Museum Van Loon. The famous Van Loon family were heavily involved in trading with the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century.

Turkish Tulips revisits the impact of this trading history on immigration, globalisation and modern politics. Curator and featured artist Gavin Turk presents his new work alongside pieces by Sir Peter Thomas Blake, Fiona Banner and Damien Hirst.

Museum van Loon, 3 Mar-29 May FOOD IN WARTIME Between 1940 and 1945 the Netherlands was occupied by Nazi Germany. Five Dutch chefs have taken on the challenge of creating dishes using only ingredients that were available during the occupation. 'Food in Wartime' offers an exclusive insight into daily life during this time.

Dutch Resistance Museum, until 28 May IN EGYPT – TRAVELLERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS, 1850-1900 When Dutch explorers set out to travel Egypt in the 19th

century, the recent introduction of photography made it possible to preserve what they discovered. Extraordinary views of the Nile, imposing pyramids and the bustling streets of Cairo are documented in this fascinating exhibition of images, collected almost entirely from Dutch collections.

Huis Marseille, 11 Mar-4 Jun

NALINI MALANI – TRANSGRESSIONS Transparent cylinders that have been painted from the inside are overlaid with video footage and lighting effects

documents and other glimpses into Amsterdam’s past.

Museum van Loon, until 30 Jun

Choice exhibit

JEFF COWEN Huis Marseille presents the first Dutch solo exhibition of American artist, Jeff Cowen.

The photographer, now based in Berlin, is inspired by experimenting with chemical processes to manipulate and appropriate the properties of photographic film. See his latest work concerning sculptors and their subjects.

Huis Marseille, 11 Mar-4 Jun CHINA Catch a major exhibition of both Chinese and Dutch Outsider Art that has never before been on display in the Netherlands. The exhibition features in excess of 200 exceptional works by Chinese and Dutch artists.

Outsider Art Museum, until 5 June WILLIAM EGGLESTON – LOS ALAMOS In this series of iconic images taken between 1966 and 1974, Foam presents a journey through the southern states of America via the camera lens of US photographer William Eggleston. A pioneer in colour photography renowned for his experimental use of the form, Eggleston transformed everyday scenes into vivid, poetic and mysterious images. The exhibition includes Eggleston’s first colour photograph.

Foam, 17 Mar-7 Jun SAMUEL JESSURUN DE MESQUITA Exhibition of drawings and designs by Samuel Jessurun de Mesquita, an artist and teacher who lived beside Artis and became renowned for his drawings of animals and caricatures of people. While in Amsterdam, one of his pupils was M.C. Escher. In 1944, the artist and his family were transported to Auschwitz, where they were killed.

Escher and family friends were able to salvage many of Mesquita's works before they were lost.

Jewish Historical Museum, until 11 Jun 130 YEARS OF CARRÉ Oscar Carré opened his famous Amsterdam theatre on 3 December 1887.

Relive the history of this iconic landmark, from circus theatre to the plush surroundings of the modern-day Royal Theatre Carré, via a presentation of photos, film and documents.

Amsterdam City Archives, 10 Mar-11 Jun

this informal exhibition. Works by the likes of Albrecht Dürer, Lucas van Leyden, Peter Paul Rubens, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo and Sir Thomas Lawrence can be seen throughout the museum.

Rijksmuseum, until 23 Jul IT’S A MEN’S WORLD It may seem like a modern idea, but the ‘man bag’ is actually centuries old. Rummage through the oft-overlooked history of male accessories from 16th-century belt purses to modern ‘it bags’.

The Museum of Bags & Purses, 11 Mar - 27 Aug © ED VAN DER ELSKEN

photographers, purchased during the past decade through support by law firm Baker & McKenzie. These works include internationally renowned artists like Man Ray, William Klein, Lisette Model, André Kertész and Saul Leiter.

Rijksmuseum, until 21 May

ED VAN DER ELSKEN - CAMERA IN LOVE As one of the early adopters of street photography, Ed van der Elsken offered an unrivaled glimpse into the streets of Amsterdam, Paris and Tokyo, and especially the real people who inhabited them. The photographer had the rare ability to draw the viewer into his scenes of everyday life; his images always making a very personal connection with the most interesting personalities on the city streets. This exhibition presents a complete retrospective of his life’s work, curated by Hripsimé Visser, curator of photography at the Stedelijk Museum.

Stedelijk Museum, 4 Feb-21 May in Nalini Malani’s new exhibition: 'Transgressions'. The artist draws on her own experiences as a refugee during the separation of India and Pakistan, as she navigates themes of migration, globalisation and political upheaval. Walking through the installations takes the viewer on a powerful multi-sensory experience.

Stedelijk Museum, 18 Mar18 Jun LEONARDO DA VINCI – ARTIST – INVENTOR – GENIUS This touring exhibition presents key works from throughout Leonardo da Vinci's lifetime. In terms of exploring the genius of the great inventor, there are more than 60 wooden models representing his most innovative designs and inventions. These are matched with life-size reproductions of his most famous paintings, detailing the evolution of his artistic style and offering detailed background information on each work.

Beurs van Berlage, until 20 Jun THE STATE COACH IN THE NETHERLANDS The Van Loon Family travelled in style. See the spectacular golden carriage, which has recently been restored, in the coach house at Museum Van Loon. The exhibition continues through the historical home and includes paintings, archival

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DRIVE: 100 YEARS OF COLLECTING If you've been pondering why your cupboards are overflowing with Tupperware, this exhibition explores the reasons why we collect and showcase objects. Sometimes it's by people who want to show off their wealth, other times they simply have an urge to hoard. A collection can make you feel immortal, or even create a unique microcosm. Naturally, a maritime theme recurs through the exhibition, including an exclusive peek at Reinier Nooms' 1664 painting 'Gezicht op het IJ met 's Lands Zeemagazijn' – which the museum recently purchased – a life jacket from the Costa Concordia and a letter signed by Dutch naval hero Michiel de Ruyter.

The National Maritime Museum, until 2 Jul A BETTER CITY Amsterdam City Archives presents an exhibition about the 'Algemeen Uitbreidingsplan van Amsterdam', which was the expansion plan devised for Amsterdam in the 1930s.

Renowned architect Cornelis van Eesteren was a key figure in this urban planning period, which has continued to influence and evolve city developments and neighbourhood growth through to the present.

Amsterdam City Archives, 17 Mar-16 Jul EEUWIGE ROEM A selection of special prints, from the 16th to the 19th centuries, are on display during

SETH PRICE – SOCIAL SYNTHETIC More than 140 pieces by the New York-based Seth Price are on display at the Stedelijk Museum in a celebration of the artist’s career highlights so far. The multi-disciplinary works are grounded in contemporary themes such as cultural consumerism and the digitisation of society. Price is well-known for his assemblages that remove the boundaries between sculpture and video, installation and print, music and poetry.

Stedelijk Museum, 15 Apr-3 Sep CHRIS BEEKMAN, DE STIJL DEFECTOR Get to know one of the unsung heroes of the De Stijl art movement during its 100-year celebration. Chris Beekman is a lesser-known artist who was associated with Bart van der Leck and Piet Mondrian early in his career. He later abandoned the principles of the movement, in favour of figurative works that promoted his left-wing political views. 'Chris Beekman, De Stijl Defector', follows the journey of his artistic career with more than 80 works on display.

Stedelijk Museum 8 Apr-17 Sep ROMANOVS & REVOLUTION Travel back in time to St Petersburg 1917, the ultimate turning point in Russia’s history. This exhibition marks 100 years since the beginning of the Russian Revolution. See paintings, clothing and precious objects that belonged to Russia’s last imperial family on display.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 17 Sep VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands, both before and after the introduction of the Housing Act in 1901.

Explore a life-sized hovel, built next to the museum, to discover what living conditions really were like.

Museum Het Schip, permanent

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS BODY ART Body art and body modification, including tattoos and piercings, but also scarification, branding and implants, have a long history and are present in numerous cultures around the globe. This exhibition explores the various meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity.

Tropenmuseum, 31 Mar-4 Jan

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution.

BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens.

DIAMANT MUSEUM The Amsterdam Diamond Museum takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth – ending in the present-day with beautiful cut diamonds.

During your visit, you’ll find out about the carbon atom, meet specialists who transform a rough stone into a sparkling jewel and see the smallest brilliant diamond in the world! You'll also learn how to distinguish between real and imitation diamonds and admire the collection of sparkling jewels on display.

EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema.

ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons.

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering

FESTIVALS

marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century.

traditional visual arts and photographic work.

HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world.

WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life.

ADDRESSES Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 www.amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Body Worlds Damrak 66 www.bodyworlds.nl De Appel Arts Centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A www.dehortus.nl Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Madame Tussauds Dam 20 www.madametussauds.com De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Oudekerk Oudekerksplein 23 www.oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam Dam square www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl

VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries.

RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th Century.

HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship.

KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection.

TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and

to highlight all aspects of quality LGBTQ cinema for a broader audience: feature films, documentaries and shorts, which are typically missing from regular THE SPIRIT OF AMSTERDAM cinematic programming.

9-19 Mar, Ketelhuis/WesterThis international celebration of gasfabriek, www.rozefilmdawhisky allows fans of the amber gen.nl stuff to sample more than 500 types from not only Scotland AMSTERDAM COFFEE and Ireland but also the USA, FESTIVAL Japan, India and Taiwan.

Spilling its beans for the fourth Expect delicious drinks and a time, the Amsterdam Coffee warm atmosphere to match, Festival typically features over with tasting sessions and masterclasses led by whisky experts. 100 artisan roasters, equipment 4 Mar, Zuiderkerk, www.thes- makers, gourmet food stalls and more. Some of Europe’s best piritofamsterdam.com baristas are set to host workSOMETHING RAW FESTIVAL shops and tastings while Dutch and international acts will proSomething Raw is a cutvide live music, entertainment ting-edge modern dance festiand art. val, hosted by Theater Frascati 10-12 Mar, Westergasfabriek, and De Brakke Grond. Each edition is a place where surpris- www.amsterdamcoffeefestival. com ing and impressive choreographies are premiered.

HET BACCHUS 7-11 Mar, Frascati & De Brakke WIJNFESTIVAL Grond, www.brakkegrond.nl Another season, another batch CINEMASIA FILM FESTIVAL of top quality grapes. The festival works with a selection of This annual film festival makes well-known wine merchants a welcome return with more from Amsterdam and the surgroundbreaking films from rounding area to provide a large Asia. Past editions have inarray of wines. The programme cluded the most vibrant film is designed to appeal to both cultures, featuring everything newbies and connoisseurs, from Hollywood hopefuls with plenty to see, learn and to orphaned children and taste. This springtime edition Himalayan quests for God is a more intimate affair than to lip-synching Filipino drag the summer edition in Amsterqueens! 2017 marks the 10th damse Bos, so advance tickets anniversary of the festival, so are certainly recommended. look for extra-special festivities, 10-12 Mar, De Duif, www.bacincluding Rainbow Karaoke, chuswijnfestival.nl Food & Film, an Asian market and an LGBT programme.

24H OOST 7-12 Mar, Kriterion & Rialto, 24H Amsterdam is an opportuwww.cinemasia.nl nity to enjoy the very best of all HISWA AMSTERDAM that Amsterdam is and has to BOAT SHOW offer. This first edition of 2017 This annual fair is the ideal start takes place around the neighbourhoods in the east of the city. to the new season for water sports and sailing fanatics, fea- Take part in special tours, workshops and events or catch unturing hundreds of boats, inforusual performances, talks and mative lectures, workshops and sessions in venues, cafes, shops the latest gadgets on the marand other unique locations. ket. In the RAI Haven you're 11 Mar, various locations in also invited to take to the water, Oost, www.iamsterdam.com while there's a wealth of fun activities for younger visitors both ST PATRICK’S FESTIVAL in and out of the water.

If you had dyed-green canals, 8-12 Mar, RAI Amsterdam, bad wigs and floods of Guinwww.hiswarai.nl ness in mind, think again: this CINEDANS – DANCE ON Dutch-Irish cultural celebration SCREEN is a tad more sophisticated.

Taking place all-day long, the This international dance and movie festival features short and St Patrick's Irish Festival offers traditional Irish dancing, folk full-length dance films, documusic, film screenings, quality mentaries, installations and a food and a chance to watch the special children's programme.

Six Nations Rugby.

The 14th edition of the ‘Dance 17 & 18 Mar, Splendor, www. on Screen’ festival offers inspirstpatrickamsterdam.com ing insights into the world of contemporary dance and ballet, showcasing choreographers and OPERA FORWARD FESTIVAL The Opera Forward Festival dancers from the Netherlands sees aspiring operatic talents and beyond. Its special focus is breathe new life into the genre, 'research & development'. through collaborations with 6-12 Mar, EYE Filmmuseum, universities that allow students www.cinedans.nl to create their own short opera.

ROZE FILMDAGEN A highlight of the 2017 edition is the world premiere of 'The With its top-draw programNew Prince' directed by Lotte ming, the festival has earned an de Beer. excellent reputation amongst 18-31 Mar, various locations, its visitors, as well as with filmtimes & prices, www.operaformakers and festivals abroad. wardfestival.nl Subtitled the Amsterdam LGBTQ Film Festival, its aim is

FESTIVALS EVENTS

mar & apr 2017

MUSEUM MARKET This design market on Amsterdam’s Museumplein offers fashion, accessories, textiles, homewares, jewellery, stationery and much more, all by local designers. When you're done shopping, grab a bite of food and enjoy some live music or performances.

19 Mar & 16 Apr, Museumplein, www.museummarket.nl ANTIQUE, VINTAGE, ART & DESIGN FAIR Enjoy a fantastic shopping experience in the atmospheric Posthoornkerk. Some 35 sellers will be participating in the Antique, Vintage, Art & Design Fair, offering up a variety of rare, beautiful and occasionally unusual wares.

24-26 Mar, Posthoornkerk, www.stadsherstel.nl OPEN TOWER DAY Experience new views of Amsterdam during this popular event. Each year a varied selection of city towers open their doors to the public – be it old churches, modern office blocks or hotels. Check the programme online for towers that require advance reservations, but for most you can simply queue up.

25 Mar, various locations, www.opentorendag.nl IAMEXPAT FAIR The IAmExpat Fair is designed as a meeting place for expats and local businesses in Amsterdam and the rest of the Netherlands. Learn about services in the city, connect with expats and take part in a wealth of free presentations and workshops covering everything from housing to education.

25 Mar, Westergasfabriek, www.amsterdam.iamexpatfair.nl :KLASSIFEST Experience pop temple Paradiso transformed into an orchestra pit for an evening of classical greats. New festival :klassifest celebrates the best of the classical world with bite-sized works, making this a perfect concert for starters as well as hardcore classical fans.

Expect centuries-spanning music by Purcell, Bartók, Satie, Bach, Mahler, Händel and DvoÐák.

25 Mar, Paradiso, www.paradiso.nl BOOKS IN DE HALLEN Grab a classic or find something new to read at this book market in De Hallen. Sellers come from all over the country to fill stalls with special editions, as well as proper printed bargains.

26 Mar, De Hallen, www.dehallen-amsterdam.nl RESTAURANT WEEK Actually running for longer than a week, this biannual event sees the city present its culinary bounty to offer memorable mouthfuls at cheap, forgettable prices. The idea

is simple: eat, drink and be merry at no added expense.

It's a great opportunity to sample some of the city’s finest dining establishments by trying discounted menus that won’t leave a nasty taste in your mouth. The wealth of participating establishments traditionally includes Michelin-starred restaurants, lauded celebrity dining haunts and trendy eateries. The only thing to keep in mind is you need to book in advance via the Restaurant Week website, starting on 16 March.

28 Mar-14 Apr, various locations, www.restaurantweek.nl TULP FESTIVAL Despite their fame, it takes a bit more effort to track down tulips in the streets and gardens of Amsterdam nowadays.

But there can never be enough tulips, and so, each spring, this festival celebrates the famous flower and ensures it blooms all over Amsterdam. All through the first half of April, more than 500,000 colourful and occasionally rare tulips can be seen in the gardens of museums, private homes and other city institutions.

1-14 Apr, various locations, www.tulpfestival.com NATIONAL MUSEUM WEEK AMSTERDAM With admission being reduced at some of Amsterdam’s museums, it’s the ideal time to visit.

Approximately 400 museums around the country traditionally participate in the event.

Alongside reduced admission charges, participating museums plan at least one special activity for visitors.

3 Apr-9 Apr, various locations, www.nationalemuseumweek.nl WORLD MINIMAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Hypnotic, repetitive, breath-taking and occasionally challenging: minimal music has been entrancing listeners with its deceptively simple means since the ’60s. That’s when composers such as Philip Glass, Steve Reich and Terry Riley began exploring new ways of musical expression, rebelling against the experimental twelve-tone music that was perceived as overly sophisticated and complicated.

This festival takes place every two years, shining a light on the minimal masters, as well as contemporary acts from around who share minimal principles.

5-9 Apr, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.muziekgebouw.nl AMSTERDAM DENIM DAYS This edition of Amsterdam Denim Days offers a full programme for denim lovers of every kind, from brands and makers to wearers and speakers. Trend-setting devotees on the street and influential denim innovators in the industry come together to celebrate all things indigo. Denim Days includes the public programmes City Center and Blueprint,

plus and an (invitation-only) trade show called Kingpins.

17-23 Apr, various locations, www.amsterdamdenimdays. com CINÉMA ARABE This Dutch film festival, based

bands participate in Record Store Day, causing fans to queue up and grab limited edition independent album releases or one-off reissues from heritage rock acts. In Amsterdam, head to local record stores like Concerto and

Choice festivals

CROSS-LINX FESTIVAL This annual, multi-city festival straddles musical boundaries by promoting refreshing combinations of indie and classical music. Headliners include Norwegian singer-songwriter Ane Brun, who'll be performing an orchestral-inspired concert with Zapp4. Esoteric Danish indie poppers Efterklang make a return to the Netherlands with The Happy Hopeless Orchestra; plus, there's haunting singer-songwriter DM Stith, operatic indie all-rounder My Brightest Diamond and many more bands and ensembles. Expect some spectacular pop elements throughout, but with plenty of twists along the way.

5 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ / Bimhuis, www.cross-linx.nl in both Amsterdam and Rotterdam, showcases the best of contemporary Arab cinema.

The festival's picks from the best new movies from countries such as Egypt, Morocco, Palestine and Lebanon provide a fresh look at life in the Arab world.

11-16 Apr, Rialto, www.rialto.nl DGTL FESTIVAL Fans of top-notch beats are in for a treat this Easter as more than 80 artists and DJs descend on the city’s former industrial docklands to pump out some of the best underground electronica in the world today. Encompassing multiple stages, this indoor-outdoor experience mixes up established and new DJs and live acts, along with an artistic flourish that connects modern innovation to industrial nostalgia. Special for 2017 are stage collaborations with Maceo Plex, Dixon and Resident Advisor.

15 & 16 Apr, NDSM Wharf, www.dgtl.nl RECORD STORE DAY Each year more and more

IMAGINE FILM FESTIVAL From sci-fi to cult, anime to fantasy and horror to experimental, the Imagine Film Festival is a home to fantastic ideas and creative filmmaking. In addition to dozens of long and short films and premieres, directors and filmmakers are invited to discuss their work in symposiums and meet the fans. The 2017 theme is Fantastic Fashion so let your imagination run wild at The Surrealist Ball costume party at Paradiso Noord (15 April), there's a special edition of the European Genre Forum for young filmmakers, and for hardcore horror fans, there’s always the annual Night of Terror, this year at Pathé de Munt.

12-22 Apr, EYE Filmmuseum, www.imaginefilmfestival.nl Velvet Music for live in-stores and other surprises.

15 Apr, various locations, www.recordstoreday.nl MEIBOCK FESTIVAL The spring sister of the Bokbier Festival later in the year, this beery festival celebrates 'meibock' (spring beers) from the Netherlands and further afield.

With a huge selection of glorious draught and bottled ‘bok’ beer on offer, it’s a haven for connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike. In many ways it's back to basics, you get a glass upon entry and this is yours for the entire visit, so take good care of it! After you've tried a beer, rinse out your glass and it's off to the next brewer's stand.

16 Apr, Posthoornkerk, www. pint.nl (Date TBC) POP ARTS FESTIVAL The annual Pop Arts Festival presents the latest developments in the world of international puppet and object theatre, dance, mime and visual artistry. The festival hits town for six days of action spread over the three festival locations (Theater Bellevue, De Krakeling and De Brakke

53

Grond), staging grotesque puppet shows, bizarre animations and challenging miniatures. Expect a mix of Dutch and international performers, plus a healthy balance of performances aimed at young and/or old.

18-23 Apr, various locations, www.popartsfestival.nl ITEA – INTERNATIONAL TALENT EVENT AMSTERDAM At this annual career event, the University of Amsterdam, Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences, Inholland University of Applied Sciences, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, amsterdam inbusiness and the Amsterdam Economic Board invite internationally orientated organisations to meet with students and graduates.

21 Apr, The Student Hotel Amsterdam City, www.iamsterdam.com/itea SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL Every year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter a blanket of blossom over the city’s streets: a phenomenon that has come to be known as ‘spring snow’. This celebration of spring includes a walking route past the city’s elm highlights, exhibitions and side programmes.

21 Apr-21 May, various locations, www.springsnow.nl BREDEWEG FESTIVAL Characterised by a family-friendly vibe, the Bredeweg Festival in the Oost District of Amsterdam is a bustling street fiesta featuring a street market, fair, theatre performances and concerts. There’s live music of all styles spread over a series of stages, great food to keep the energy levels up and lots of family fun, including rides, storytellers, face painters, craft workshops and performance artists.

27 Apr, Bredeweg, www.bredewegfestival.nl OPERA OP STRAAT A colourful operatic concept with a difference: a one-off performance taking place outdoors on the Bredeweg on King’s Night. The performance typically features members of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and Chamber Choir, as well as locals from the neighbourhood and students of the Dutch National Opera Academy.

26 Apr, Bredeweg, www.bredewegfestival.nl/opera KING'S DAY King's Day festivities invite locals and visitors alike to soak up Amsterdam's openair fun. In the streets, canals, parks and everywhere in between, the city is bursting with orange as everyone is invited to enjoy the nation’s biggest party of the year. Check out I amsterdam for all the latest information on what’s in store on the day (and on King’s Night, the evening before).

27 Apr, throughout the city, www.iamsterdam.com/ kingsday

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. There’s also an early bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats, themes and open podiums. every Fri, CREA, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 PUB QUIZ XL Pub Quiz XL is exactly what it says on the tin... a pub quiz on a grand scale. It's certainly regarded as the biggest quiz in Amsterdam, in which up to 30 teams of five will compete to win fun prizes. Between the rounds, expect live acts and entertainment, all hosted by charismatic quizmaster O-Dog. Please note that the quiz is in Dutch, but surtitled to be accessible to international audiences.

Tue 14 Mar & 11 Apr, Boom Chicago, 20:00, €10-€20 (or €2.50 to watch) STA! – LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM Language No Problem is a fictional story inspired by interviews with volunteers and based on real events. This performance about a proposed refugee camp is performed in Dutch, surtitled in English and includes some free language learning in Spanish, Korean, Russian and German.

Wed 1-Fri 3 Mar, CREA, 20:00. €7-€10 BEST OF BOOM After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom'. This highlights package combines the troupe’s sharpest sketches and trademark improvisation for a twohour show that starts big and never slows down.

Wed, Thur Fri, Boom Chicago, 20:30 ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP UP THE VOLUME The political comedy team of Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but were they ready for President Donald Trump?

Not since President George W Bush has there been an idea so disturbing to so many... yet so fantastic for comedians. various dates Mar, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices 'ALLO 'ALLO! If you're looking for the Fallen Madonna with the six big boobies, the Badhuistheater may be the place to look. This humorous comedy takes its lead from the classic British sitcom of the same name, presenting a silly but touching look at the

French resistance movement during WWII. It's performed in English, with the bonus of some beautifully offensive French and German accents.

3-5 Mar, Badhuistheater, various times, €15

Choice theatre

SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’.

Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 ROB IT LIKE IT'S HOT! An engaging 70-minute celebration of the accomplishments of Boom Chicago actor Rob AndristPlourde: sex and cycling, rock shows and diabetes, weed smoking and weed smuggling, about social media, radio, TED Talks and beatboxing.

Sat 4 & 18 Mar, Boom Chicago, 20:30, €15 COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL PRESENTS: ALFIE BROWN & BEC HILL Brit comic Alfie Brown started his career like a fireball, although has begun to look inwards as a young father. He's joined by Bec Hill, an Australian comedian based in London who sews stand-up and arts & crafts into her shows.

Oh, and she loves a pun (or a thousand).

Sun 5 Mar, Toomler, 20:30, €16.50 ASHTON BROTHERS The not-actual brothers have taken their Buster Keaton-worthy ideas abroad before, as their energetic combinations of acrobatics, magic, music and general clowning about is clearly open to all ages and cultures.

Tue 7-Thur 9 Mar, DeLaMar Theater, 19:30/20:00, €19.50-€29.50 MONUMENTAAL Those who prefer their ballet modern and minimal are in for a treat with this four-part performance by Introdans.

Thur 9 Mar, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €25 DON GIOVANNI The infamous Don Juan has inspired audiences (and imitators) for centuries. Mozart’s masterpiece 'Don Giovanni' portrays the story with operatic passion, violence and humour, making it one of his biggest accomplishments.

Thur 9 & Sat 11 Mar, Royal Theatre Carré, 19:30, €15-€70 SUNNY Inspired by Marvin Gaye’s song by the same name, 'Sunny' by acclaimed choreographer Emanuel Gat is an experimental piece that combines modern dance with a live concert and plenty of humour.

Thur 16 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €15-€32.50

A CONVERSATION ON MAKING A MURDERER A rare opportunity to delve deeply into the Netflix documentary that captivated the world. Lawyers Dean Strang and Jerry Buting make a special appearance in Amsterdam to discuss their experiences in defending Steven Avery throughout his ordeal with the American judicial system, which was exposed by the four-time Emmy award-winning series: 'Making a Murderer'. This event is part of 'A Conversation on Justice', the lawyers’ world tour in search of support for Avery’s case and its broader implications.

Mon 20 Mar, Meervaart, 20:15, €32.50 OPERA FORWARD The Opera Forward Festival sees aspiring operatic talents breathe new life into the genre, through collaborations with universities that allow students to create their own short opera. A highlight of the 2017 edition is the world premiere of 'The New Prince' directed by Lotte de Beer.

18-31 Mar, various locations, times & prices, www.operaforwardfestival.nl WOZZECK The story - recognised as one of the most inspiring operas of the 20th century - is about a young soldier who experiences the atrocities of war, along with mistreatment from his superiors, and returns home emotionally changed forever.

Sat 18 Mar-Sun 9 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various dates & times, €15-€122 OPERA2DAY – DR. MIRACLE'S LAST ILLUSION A travelling illusionist from 1900 and his assistant who meets an unfortunate end are the stars of this shocking opera by award-winning company: Opera2Day. It’s gripping, colourful and more than a little violent, combining opera with spectacular choreography and detailed sets.

Sun 19 Mar, Royal Theatre Carré, 19:00, €15-€45 FORTRESS EUROPE Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam presents the first of the Sign of the Times series: a set of modern operas that translate current events for the stage.

Fortress Europe takes on the topic of the refugee crisis, with a dramatic, poignant and thought-provoking performance.

Mon 20-Wed 22 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €15€32.50

STRAIGHT AND NARROW English-language theatre company The InPlayers get back on stage at Amsterdam's Polanentheater to perform Jimmie Chinn's 'Straight and Narrow', a modern tale of domesticity turning sour.

Thur 23-Sat 25 Mar, Polanentheater, 20:00, Sun also 14:30 THE NEW PRINCE Don’t expect to find Prince Charming in this operatic adaptation of Niccolò Machiavelli’s The Prince.

Fri 24-Fri 31 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, various times, €20-€90 CALIBAN Shakespeare’s ultimate antihero takes centre stage in this moving opera by Moritz Eggert. Caliban, the vengeful slave from 'The Tempest', is a victim of his own inferiority complex.

Sat 25-Thur 30 Mar, Compagnietheater, various dates & times, €15-€25 AND YOU MUST SUFFER (JOHANNES PASSION) Pierre Audi collaborated with artist Wim Delvoye to create the compelling scenography featuring images of cultural and religious conflict.

Wed 28 & Thur 29 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ, 20:00, €44-€55 ONEGIN The Dutch National Opera and Ballet take on one of the most technically challenging and darkly romantic pieces of all time. The story of unrequited love between young Tatiana and aristocratic Eugene Onegin is told in dramatic detail under the direction of John Cranko. Wed 29 MarSun 16 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various dates & times, €18-€90

#TRISTANISOLDE American composer and Pulitzer Prize winner David Lang presents a modern oratorio inspired by the saga of Tristan and Isolde.

Fri 31 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, ACCUSATIONS Prepare for an extravaganza of sound, lighting, video and dance in 'Accusations', choreographed by Ann Van den Broek. A talented cast of dancers showcase their talents against a backdrop of spectacular sound and lighting techniques.

Mon 3 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €10-€27.50 COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL PRESENTS: PHILWANG & PIERRE NOVELLIE A Comedytrain International special featuring UK comedian Phil Wang and South African star Phil Wang.

Sun 9 Apr, Toomler, 20:30, €16.50 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL – VAREKAI Amsterdam audiences are once again treated to the gravity-defying acrobatics of Cirque du Soleil. Aerial performers, trapeze artists and acrobatics tell the story of the colourful characters that inhabit the forest, and as you'd expect from Cirque du Soleil, it's an audio-visual spectacular.

Fri 21-Sun 23 Apr, Ziggo Dome, various times, €30.80-€115 THE LITTLE BIG CHEST Designed for children aged four to six, it is an enchanting introduction to the world of ballet and theatre, depicting the story of colourful characters who magically appear from a toy chest.

Fri 21-Wed 26 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €11.50-€14.50 A DOG'S HEART A puppet of a dog is the unlikely lead in Alexander Raskatov’s world premiere: 'A Dog’s Heart', which was commissioned by the Dutch National Opera. Written as a satirical criticism of the Soviet system, based on the novella

by Mikhail Bulgakov, an oversized dog comes to life thanks to a transplant of human organs, with Frankenstein-esque consequences.

Sat 22 Apr-Fri 5 May, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times & prices MOUNT OLYMPUS: TO GLORIFY THE CULT OF TRAGEDY Characters from famous Greek tragedies are represented in this unique performance as it explores confrontational themes of lust, jealousy, revenge and heartache. Performed over 24 hours, the experimental piece plays with perceptions of time and the hypnotic power of theatre.

Fri 28 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 19:00, €10-€27.50

mar & apr 2017

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MUSIC/POP & JAZZ POP & JAZZ MARK EITZEL Best known for his time fronting indie rock band American Music Club, this jazz-inspired rocker is celebrated as one of the most weird and wonderful musicians around. His gloomy, powerful and impactful songs never fail to have audiences hanging on his every word.

Expect an enthralled crowd in this intimate neighbourhood venue as he promotes his first release in three years.

Wed 1 Mar, Zonnehuis, 20:30, €15 ZHENYA STRIGALEV NEVER GROUP Russian-born alto-saxophonist Zhenya Strigalev has an impressive knack for banding musicians together who compliment one another's talents perfectly. Members of his jazz-versed band include bass guitarist Linley Marthe (Joe Zawinul Syndicate) and drummer Eric Harland (Dave Holland, McCoy Tyner).

Thur 2 Mar, Bimhuis, 20:30, €17-€20

Choice pop & jazz

HUNTER HAYES Hunter is another young American country star in the making. Despite being on the scene for barely five years, he has released three great albums, toured with Taylor Swift and is the youngest person to top the Billboard Hot Country Songs. He also plays over 30 instruments.

Wed 8 Mar, Melkweg, 19:00, €20 PINEGROVE The New Jersey rock outfit started their musical career at the turn of the decade, when childhood friends Evan Stephens Hall (guitar) and Zack Levine (drums) decided it was about time they started a band.

The now-six-piece group craft music that is a hybrid of indie rock, pop and country music, and really hit their stride last year with the release of their sophomore effort 'Cardinal'.

Wed 8 Mar, Paradiso, 22:00, €8

THE GLOAMING When it comes to Irish Celtic music, The Gloaming have embraced traditions but set themselves apart with exciting contemporary takes on folk music – comparable to Radiohead's effect on indie guitar pop. This five piece's fusion of classical, progressive and folk created quite the stir with their self-titled debut album, securing them a slew of sold-out shows across London, Amsterdam, Paris and New York. They've been back in Amsterdam since, notably performing at the Holland Festival in support of their second record, '2', last year.

Fri 3 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, 20:15, €25

© ANDY MORGAN

BLONDE REDHEAD Led by vocalist Kazu Makino, these cult heroes of the indie rock scene have been blazing trails since the early ‘90s. Over DAN OWEN the years, their music has There's more than meets evolved from noise rock along the eye with this fresh-faced the lines of Sonic Youth to a singer-songwriter. While Dan unique blend of dream pop and Owen may look like your typshoegaze. Towards the end of ical indie rocker, his bluesy 2016 the group turned their guitar and powerful raw vocals attention back 20 years by will soon teach you to never reissuing their first two albums judge a book by its cover. See as a boxed set. But as well as the prodigy in his element being in a best-of type of mood, as he promotes his latest EP, the group also just released an CAR SEAT HEADREST 'Open Hand and Enemies'.

EP of new material, so expect With a sound that harks back Thur 2 Mar, Paradiso, 20:00, the best of both worlds tonight. €10 Fri 10 Mar, Tolhuistuin, to 1990s indie, it's easy to 20:30, €19 connect Car Seat Headrest GRAILS to the slacker pop of PaveTHE DEVIN TOWNSEND These American rockers offer ment. In actuality, songwriter PROJECT up an interesting musical mix Will Toledo is anything but of jazz paired with classical This Canadian rocker is somea slacker, self-releasing a and psychedelic rock. Inspired thing of a superstar in heavy swarm of music before his by the movie soundtracks of metal and prog rock. For his beloved Western epics, the band, the highly diverse 'Devin project was eventually picked band pride themselves on their Townsend Project,' he set the up by Matador Records, layered instrumental tracks. ambitious goal of featuring a meaning the group's proper Sat 4 Mar, Paradiso, 20:00, different theme and group of debut album 'Teens of De€12 musicians on each album. If nial' was actually his tenth. that's not impressive enough, There's plenty of ambition in JAZZ IN 'T HUIS AAN DE 2011 saw the release of not two, AMSTEL his music too, with wandernot three, but four albums – This jazztravaganza gives you each one dramatically different ing guitar riffs reminding of the opportunity to experience to the other. They released a classic Television and lyrical mesmerising jazz, blues and new album last year too, so stories that play out over epic ballads every Sunday in March, expect a shed-load of new masong structures. and the best bit: it's completely terial. American metal-techies Tue 14 Mar, Paradiso, free! Each week gives you the Between the Buried and Me 20:30, €15 chance to catch a different and avant-garde Norwegians group, each one with a unique Leprous support. and distinct feel.

Fri 10 Mar, Melkweg, LUKAS GRAHAM Sun 5 & Sun 12 & Sun 19 & 19:00, €25 Sun 26 Mar, 't Huis aan de Truthfulness and a cocktail of METHYL ETHEL Amstel, 15:30, free funky pop and R&B are the This mind-bending Australian name of the game with Danish IDAN RAICHEL trio are the talk of the town on band Lukas Graham. The live Armed with a strong backtheir home turf. Their artful performance of their chart-topground in jazz piano and gypsy music, something of a mix beping song, the soulful and music, Idan rose to fame with tween rock and dream pop, is a seminal '7 Years', is a musical The Idan Raichel Project – a truly singular ride – something callback to The Beatles that is group that aimed to expose that's intensified in concert. bound to jerk a tear or two. the world to the wonder of The up-and-coming indie band Sun 12 Mar, AFAS Live, cross-cultural music. Catch will be playing heaps of tracks 20:00, €32 him showcasing his first solo – as the Aussies would say – PHIL CAMPBELL AND album as he inspires fans with from their EPs as well as their THE BASTARD SONS his electronic-inspired piano debut album, 'Oh Inhuman skills.

Spectacle'.

Welshman Phil Campbell is Sun 5 Mar, Melkweg, 19:30, Sun 12 Mar, Paradiso, a part of rock 'n' roll history, €20 20:00, €11 having played guitar for the

THE JESUS AND MARY CHAIN Emerging from the post-punk scene of the early '80s, these Scottish indie noise merchants weren't the first band to bury pop music under waves of fuzz and distortion, but they were probably one of the first to make a chart career out of the artform. While the group violently exploded back in the '90s, only eventually reforming for 'greatest hits' shows in 2007, this tour marks the first time since that they'll be promoting new material (from new album 'Damage and Joy'), preventing a pure nostalgia-fest.

Wed 19 Apr, Paradiso, 20:30, € 37.50 legendary Motörhead between 1984 and 2015. The artist's new band, Phil Campbell and the Bastard Sons, is made-up of Campbell, his three rockin' sons and singer Neil Starr.

This raw rock 'n' roll gig will showcase their gritty self-titled debut EP. Sun 12 Mar, Melkweg, 19:30, €17.50 PETER DOHERTY This quintessential modern rockstar has had more headlines than tours. Doherty has taken what he's learned as the frontman for The Libertines and Babyshambles and em-

barked on a successful solo career. Expect lots of tunes from his second solo album, 'Hamburg Demonstrations', which is one part raw and one part sincere – with a pinch of politics thrown in for good measure.

Mon 13 Mar, Melkweg 19:30, €25 MAREN MORRIS Texan singer-songwriter Maren Morris has been making waves in the country music scene, mostly thanks to her uncanny ability to bridge the gap between a multitude of genres. She's even known to throw a dash or two of hip-hop into her tracks. She first hit the public eye with her self-titled extended play in 2015, which garnered a whopping 2.5 million streams on Spotify. Her 2016 album 'HERO' received commercial success too.

Tue 14 Mar, Melkweg, 19:30, €17.50 JOOLS HOLLAND AND HIS RHYTHM & BLUES ORCHESTRA Every spring, pop pianist Jools Holland – who’s now more recognised from his BBC television show – gets back on the road with an exceptionally gifted bunch of musos. It's now something of a tradition for them to stop by Amsterdam's Paradiso as part of the tour.

This time he's joined by special guests, drummer Gilson Lavis and singers Ruby Turner and Louise Marshall.

Fri 17 Mar, Paradiso, 20:30, €30 OVER THE RHINE Over the Rhine hail from Ohio and have been dealing in stunning folk pop for more than 25 years. The husband-and-wife duo consists of Linford Detweiler and Karin Bergquist – both extremely talented vocalists and musicians.

Sat 18 Mar, Paradiso, 19:30, €15 CHRIS THILE This Grammy-winning American is simply a phenomenon.

The musical innovator – whose go-to instrument is his trusty mandolin – is well-versed in bluegrass, rock, jazz and classical, so don't be alarmed when you hear him play both Bach and Radiohead in the same show. He absolutely revels in his performances too, never failing to incorporate his trademark humour, improv and insight between songs.

Sat 18 Mar, Bimhuis, 20:30, €18-€22 JOAN AS POLICE WOMAN Joan As Police Woman – fronted by gifted vocalist Joan Wasser – have had an illustrious music career, having released six successful albums over the past decade. Their niche musical style is hard to categorise, but it's something of a quirky cocktail of punk, R&B and American soul.

Sun 19 Mar, Melkweg, 19:30, €21

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ SLAVES John Lewis; it's safe to say that talent runs in the family. This Slaves are an American post-hardcore outfit who made acoustic-blues ambassador is a self-described fingerpickin' one heck of a splash when they troubadour, having released arrived on the scene in 2014 20 albums in his remarkable (not the punky Brit duo). They 45-year career. Last time he got a record deal two months played at North Sea Jazz Club, after forming and secured a the event was completely sold US tour before releasing their out, so prepare to be impressed debut album. They're releaswhen he returns. ing their third studio album Fri 24 Mar, North Sea Jazz this year, so anticipate a fresh Club, 21:00, €21-€25 dose of catchy choruses and air-punching riffs.

THE RECORD COMPANY Mon 20 Mar, Sugarfactory, Distorted bass, slide guitar 19.30, €12 and in-your-face drum beats EMMY THE GREAT are these guys' expertise. The three-man rock 'n' roll group After a five-year break – in draw inspiration from blues which Emmy worked as a journalist for Vice and The Guard- music as well as early punk and rock bands. And charismatic ian – this skilful songstress vocalist Chris Vos just can't made her comeback last year. resist getting the crowd going 2016's 'Second Love' saw the artist taking a step back from with his witty banter and playful dancing. her go-to acoustic indie-folk Sun 26 Mar, Sugarfactory, tracks of old, moving towards 19:30, €10 a more synth-laden, rhythmic record. The new direction DAVE MATTHEWS AND suits, supplementing Emmy's TIM REYNOLDS soothing vocal timbre.

What do you get when you Thur 23 Mar, De Roode combine one of the best conBioscoop, 20:30, €12 temporary rock vocalists with SUN RA ARKESTRA a mind-blowing multi-instrumentalist? Dave Matthews and The late, great Sun Ra was a Tim Reynolds. The two are a major force in the Chicago jazz musical match made in heaven, scene of the 1940s. Named coming together for an intiafter the Egyptian Sun God, his fittingly cosmic music influ- mate acoustic set in an arena setting. enced the entire history of jazz: Sun 26 Mar, AFAS Live, bebop, fusion, free jazz – you 20:00, €70.40-€82.50 name it, he's influenced it. His band – now celebrating their DRAKE 60th anniversary – are conIs Drake the biggest rapper tinuing this icon's legacy. on the planet? That may well Fri 24 Mar, Bimhuis, 20:30, be the case. This is his fourth €21-€25 show in Amsterdam to satiate THE MYSTERONS fan demand for this 'The Boy Meets World Tour'. The best These daring Dutchies have a tickets can be hard to come by, soft spot for the Sixties – the so be sure to only use official band was even named after merchants and resellers. the 1967 TV show 'Captain Mon 27 Mar & Tue 28 Mar, Scarlet and the Mysterons'.

Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €49-€98 They perform music that can only be described as a crafty MILBURN combination of indie pop and Before Sheffield brought us psychedelic rock. Their edgy, sometimes dark music is quite indie bands such as The Kooks and Reverend and the Makers, the adventure, making these they gave us Milburn, whose up-and-coming youngsters far original run spanned from older than their years.

2001 to 2008. After overThur 23 Mar, Sugarfactory, whelming reactions from a tiny 20:00, €10 UK reunion tour last year, the ERIC BIBB rockers are back together and doing what they do best.

Eric's father – Leon Bibb – was Wed 29 Mar, Sugarfactory, a prominent singer on the 20:00, €12 New York folk scene, and his uncle was famed jazz pianist EMELI SANDÉ advert If there's one artist on the radar of every R&B aficionado it's Emeli Sandé. The young Scottish singer-songwriter – who also incorporates elements of jazz and soul into her music – has captured the hearts of the British public, earning her three UK number ones and two Brit Awards. Her first European arena tour promotes 'Long Live the Angels', her newest album, so expect songs both new and old from this soulful Scottish star.

Wed 29 Mar, AFAS Live, 20:00, €39 SCOTT BRADLEE & POSTMODERN JUKEBOX This unconventional jazz and

ragtime band are best known for their reinterpretations of modern pop songs. Their swinging covers of Miley Cyrus’s ‘We Can’t Stop’ and Lorde’s ‘Royals’ have turned the group into viral sensations on YouTube, attracting big live audiences who can't get enough of their unlikely mash-ups. Expect a rowdy sing-along-a-ton at this catchy concert.

Thur 30 Mar, AFAS Live, 20:00, €37-€90

RUN THE JEWELS When El-P produced Killer Mike's fifth album, 'R.A.P. Music', the chemistry was so great that the two knew they had to collaborate again. It's a good thing they did: the politically charged message of their hip-hop supergroup, Run the Jewels, is as admirable as it is listenable, and it's needed now more than ever.

Wed 5 Apr, Melkweg, 19:30, €25

LEGENDARY SHACK STING SHAKERS Sting needs no introduction.

This American rockabilly and His work with The Police reblues band live and breathe sulted in some of the biggest the Southern music of their hits in pop music. He went solo home turf. Their tracks borin 1984 (at the peak of The Porow from all the top genres of lice's popularity), and the rest the deep South: rock 'n' roll, is history. Flaunting elements country blues, carnival music; of world music, jazz and clasthey're even known to dabble sical in his tunes, this icon has in Southern Gothic and swamp enjoyed a comfortable career rock from time to time. Y'all for well over 30 years. This are certain to receive some of tour catches him back in full that characteristic Southern rock and pop mode however, hospitality at this gig. thanks to recent album '57th Thur 30 Mar, Poppodium and 9th'.

P60, 20:00, €14 Wed 5 Apr, AFAS Live, 20:00, €69 TEDESCHI TRUCKS BAND KRIS DAVIS TRIO Husband-and-wife duo Susan Tedeschi (guitar and vocals) Kris Davis is recognised as one and Derek Trucks (guitar) lead of the globe's major talents in this epic 12-piece blues ensem- improvised music. Her distinct ble. Their rock-infused take piano-led compositions interon blues had everyone talking twine angular jazz phrases with when they first hit the scene – authoritative piano technique. so much that their first release Thur 6 Apr, Bimhuis, debuted at number one on the 20:30, €18 Billboard 100.

GHOST Fri 31 Mar, AFAS Live, 19:00, €42-€67 Dressed head-to-toe in black occult attire, this Swedish band SWANS have captured the attention Michael Gira’s Swans is an old of the metal community and band with ties to the early ’80s beyond with their abstract goth scene. In reality, these approach to the genre. Pigeontwisted noise rockers have reholing these guys into one of invented themselves in recent metal's many sub-genres would years. They specialise in noisy, be a massive shame, as they spiritual and challenging conbridge the scene from classic ceptual works, led by a howlrock to modern metal, with a ing, quasi-religious character touch of goth in between. that seems to possess Gira Thur 6 Apr, AFAS Live, when he steps onstage.

20:00, €35 Fri 31 Mar, Paradiso, CREEDENCE CLEARWATER 20:30, €20 REVIVED JEDI MIND TRICKS Creedence Clearwater Revival Philadelphian underground are one of the all-time great hip-hop duo Jedi Mind Tricks rock bands, so it's only fitting are widely admired for their that they have a tribute band gritty, raw sound – a sound that to continue their legacy. These has stayed consistent throughguys are just that, flawlessly out their 20-year career. The reviving every strum, beat and experimental icons forged their note that the original rockers own subgenre back in the mid- offered up in the '60s and '70s.

90s, and they're releasing maFri 7 Apr, AFAS Live, 20:00, terial at the end of this year, so €39.99-€49.99 get ready to hear a mixed bag.

LISA HANNIGAN Mon 3 Apr, Melkweg, 19:30, €29 Originally part of Damien Rice's touring band, this MOON DUO multi-talented Irish singUtilising his skills with er-songwriter went solo in distortion and effects pedals, 2007. Since then, the indie-folk guitarist Ripley Johnson is in artist has released three alcomplete control of his bums, including 2016's trance-like playing. The whimsical 'At Swim'. Hanmood is completed by nigan's silky-smooth singing Sanae Yamada's impressive voice has secured her a load of talent for percussion, TV work too, including singing adding the perfect beats to in FX's 'Fargo' and Johnson's sweeping melodies, voicing a character in Cartoon wah-wah chords and spacey Network's 'Steven solos.

Universe'.

Tue 4 Apr, Tolhuistuin, Sun 9 Apr, Paradiso, 20:30, €14 20:30, €18

BENNY GOLSON QUARTET This venerable jazz legend is a world-renowned tenor saxophone giant. He's an incredible composer too, having written over 300 pieces. His ever-bluesy amalgamation of harmony and energetic bebop is absolute and expert. This skillfulness is echoed in the rest of the quartet's abilities.

Sun 9 Apr, Bimhuis, 20:30, €27-€32 MATT SIMONS Versed with a background in classical and jazz, Simons moved to New York to try his hand at pop music. Interestingly, it was here in the Netherlands where he really found his niche. Since then, the multi-talented pop artist has blown up across Europe and beyond.

Thur 13 Apr, AFAS Live, 20:00, €32.50 CRISTINA BRANCO Holland means a lot to this Portuguese fado singer-songwriter: her debut album was a collection of live songs performed here, and Holland was the first place she achieved commercial success. Since then, she's garnered worldwide recognition, but the Netherlands – and Amsterdam in particular – will always hold a special place in the feisty fadista's heart.

Thur 13 Apr, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €26.50-€27.50 OSCAR AND THE WOLF Oscar and the Wolf – the stage name of solo artist Max Colombie – was founded in 2010.

He gained fame in 2014 with the release of his debut album, 'Entity'. A sold-out club tour and several festival dates later, and the Belgian electropopper is well-and-truly equipped to tackle this arena show.

Fri 14 Apr, AFAS Live, 20:00, €37 FUSE These Dutch virtuosos are as eclectic as they are talented; the six-piece string and percussion ensemble from Amsterdam are well-known around their hometown, often playing shows across many of the city's iconic venues. Fuse's repertoire of songs ranges from Bartók to Coltrane – and even a bit of Frank Zappa, so you never know what these young musicians are going to play next.

Fri 14 Apr, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:30, €19.50 CREEPER AFI meets Misfits with this British horror punk band. Not only is there a haunting ambience and a sense of doom in Creeper's music, but there are hints of hardcore punk as well (especially in their shouty gang vocals).

Sat 15 Apr, Melkweg, 18:30, €13.50 ICP ORCHESTRA This orchestra's family concert will dazzle everyone – child and adult alike. Be it freak-out

mar & apr 2017

57

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ/CLASSICAL Hold on to your seats for this gig.

Tue 25 Apr, AFAS Live, 20:00, €59 OUMOU SANGARE This Grammy Award-winning West African diva packs quite the musical punch. A strong role model for African women, Sangare picks apart her home country's taboos with her controversial blend of Wassoulou music. The artist's bright voice and confident bravado have also won her many dedicated Western fans.

Wed 26 Apr, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €28.50

BOB DYLAN Hailed as one of the greatest songwriters alive, this folk and rock pioneer is finally returning to the Dutch capital. Not only is the legend still touring, but he’s prolific. The symbolic musician has a whopping 37 studio albums under his belt, EX-CULT so expect everything from his 50-plus year career: folk, blues, Ex-Cult are five fierce, unrerock 'n' roll and even his more lenting punks who want to take recent ventures into Texan back their scene, and they don't swing. care who knows it. Armed with Sun 16-Tue 18 Apr, AFAS Live, raw songwriting ferocity, these 20:00, €82.50-€120 guys mean business with their shouty vocals, windmilling SEAN PAUL guitars and pure emotion. But Jamaican rapper Sean Paul they aren't afraid to flaunt started off small, getting a slew their softer side either. It goes of hit singles in his home coun- without saying, but it all makes try in 1996. Over 20 years later, for a killer punk show. this dancehall superstar is one Sat 29 Apr, Paradiso, of the biggest modern names 20:00, €8 in Jamaican music. He's proud JOE BONAMASSA of his heritage, always invigorating his shows with a taste of Bonamassa first got a guitar in Jamaica – whether that be with his paws at the tender age of giant flags, Jamaican dancers four, and when he was 12, his or tales from his childhood. skills had developed enough Wed 19 Apr, Melkweg, for him to perform as a support 19:30, €35 act for no other than B.B. King.

In later years, he began workRACHAEL YAMAGATA ing as a blues-rock producer, Singer-songwriter Rachael and he even recorded an album Yamagata left funk band Bumwith Eric Clapton. pus in 2001 to embark on her Sat 29 Apr, Ziggo Dome, solo career. Turns out it was 20:00, €97-€135 the right move: since then, the acoustic prodigy has toured the globe many times over and released four fantastic studio albums. This bluesy soul shouter's live performances and CLASSICAL thoughtful tunes have won over SUNDAY MORNING COFFEE many a fan; the community CONCERT even completely funded 2016's 'Tightrope Walker', a cracking The twice-monthly Sunday album packed with dramatic morning ‘Coffee Concerts’ at pop and acoustic wonder.

Amsterdam’s Pianola Museum Mon 24 Apr, Tolhuistuin, offer a chance to hear the pi20:30, €18 anola in action.

Sun 12 & 26 Mar, Pianola JAPANDROIDS Museum, 12:00, €8 Inspired by the likes of Bruce SINGING IN DE HALLEN Springsteen, Tom Petty and the Replacements, Japandroids Every first Sunday of the wear their musical hearts on month, choirs perform in the their sleeves. Thanks to their central passage of De Hallen in undeniable influences from Amsterdam. classic and punk rock, the Sun 5 Mar & Sun 2 Apr, Vancouver-based indie duo's De Hallen, 16:00, free tunes transcend the typical DANEL QUARTET PLAYS indie-rock melodies, patterns TCHAIKOVSKY and tropes. The guys are infamous for their bombastic live The Brussels- and Manchesshows too. ter-based string quartet has a Mon 24 Apr, Melkweg, soft spot for Russian compos19:30, €14 ers. Tonight, they play music

by Tchaikovsky, Alexander DREAM THEATER Borodin and Mieczysław WeinCombining the glam- and berg – the latter, a lesser-know prog-rock music of the day, contemporary and friend of Dream Theater almost single- Shostakovich’s, being a particuhandedly pioneered progreslar favourite of theirs. sive metal as a genre. The band Wed 1 Mar, Royal Concertgehave also pushed the envelope bouw, 20:15, €29-€46 when it comes to music-makBELCEA QUARTET: SHOSing in general. 34-track album?

TAKOVICH AND SCHUBERT They've got one. 42-minute song? They've got that too.

The Romanian quartet per-

Choice classical ©FLOREN VAN OLDEN

jazz or more classical structures, these improvisers have an apparent mind-meld that allows them to break every rule and push every boundary while remaining on the same energetic page. It all makes for quite the show.

Sat 15 Apr, Bimhuis, 16:00, €10-€16

LATVIAN RADIO CHOIR & SINFONIETTA RIGA The choir and chamber orchestra from Latvia perform works by Arvo Pärt and James MacMillan. The Estonian and the Scottish composer both created works characterised by a deeply felt religious sensibility, and the music played tonight is more than fitting for Lent. Of MacMillan, it’s the Seven Last Words from the Cross, and of Pärt, the Cantus in Memory of Benjamin Britten, Nunc dimittis and Adam’s Lament that are on the programme.

Thur 2 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €37

PIETER JAN LEUSINK: BACH'S ST MATTHEW PASSION Of the many St Matthew and St John’s Passions performed in Amsterdam in the run-up to Easter, this is doubtlessly the most popular one, having been a fixed entry in the city’s cultural calendar for many years. What sets this Passion performance apart is that Pieter Jan Leusink's baroque specialists focus on authentic period performances.

Various dates and times between 18 Mar and 16 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, €30-€86

LATVIAN RADIO CHOIR: BRAHMS The renowned chamber choir sings a selection from Brahms’s ever-popular Liebeslieder Waltzes, whose lyrics are from a collection of songs based on Russian, Polish and Hungarian folk songs and tales. Three works from the rich contemporary Baltic choir tradition – by Juris Karlsons, PÐteris Vasks and Pärt – are also on the programme.

Mon 6 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €18-€48 VAN BAERLE TRIO: HENZE, TCHAIKOVSKY AND BEETHOVEN The lauded trio – consisting of Hannes Minnaar (piano), Maria Milstein (violin) and Gideon den Herder (cello) – perform Beethoven’s Piano Trio in C minor, Tchaikovsky’s Piano Trio in A minor and the Kammersonate by Hans Werner Henze.

Mon 6 & Wed 8 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €31€50 HERBERT BLOMSTEDT LEADS THE RCO IN DVORÁK AND BEETHOVEN Cellist Tatjana Vassiljeva joins the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra for a performance of DvoÐák’s Cello Concerto.

Beethoven’s Seventh Symphony is also on the programme; Herbert Blomstedt conducts.

Wed 8 & Thur 9 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €27.50-€100

form the last quartets written Sat 4 & Sun 5 Mar, Dominiby Schubert and by Shostakovcuskerk (Sat)/Zuiderkerk ich. The works have more in (Sun), 20:15/15:15, €17.50 common: both are relatively VALERY GERGIEV CONlong, and both are characterIVES ENSEMBLE ised by a constant veering be- DUCTS SZYMANOWSKI AND BRUCKNER DE OPTOCHT tween light and darkness.

Fri 3 Mar, Royal ConcertgeGergiev conducts the RotAt this concert, revered Dutch bouw, 20:15, €34-€54 terdam Philharmonic and poet Toon Tellegen's magnum violinist Clara-Jumi Kang in opus, 'De Optocht', will be GARDINER LEADS THE Bruckner’s famous Unfinished adapted to the classical music CONCERTGEBOUW ORSymphony and the First Vistage. Composer Petra van der CHESTRA IN MAHLER AND olin Concerto by the Polish Schoot has faithfully recreated ELGAR composer Karol Szymanowski, the poem's feel with expert Conducted by Sir John Eliot written in the midst of the First care and precision. As always, Gardiner, the orchestra plays World War. expect a gripping performance Elgar’s Cockaigne Overture Sat 4 Mar, Royal Concertge- from the Netherlands' own Ives (‘In London Town’), his Second bouw, 14:15, €39/€45 Ensemble.

Symphony and Mahler’s RückWed 8 Mar, Muziekgebouw VASILY PETRENKO CONert-Lieder. For the latter, it is aan 't IJ, 19:00, €31 DUCTS RACHMANINOV joined by mezzo-soprano Ann AND GLAZUNOV SLAGWERK DEN HAAG: Hallenberg.

CAGE, REICH AND GLASS Thur 2, Fri 3 & Sun 5 Mar, Vasily Petrenko conducts a Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, programme filled with nosThe percussion sextet perSun 14:15, €25-€91 talgia and homesickness for forms works by Cage, Reich, Russia, expressed with much Glass and Anthony Fiumara, JANINE JANSEN PLAYS SImelancholy in Rachmaninoff ’s including Reich’s hypnotising BELIUS’ VIOLIN CONCERTO Third Symphony. Pianist Maria Six Marimbas, Glass’ dramatic The famous violinist joins the Milstein then performs the Music in Similar Motion and NHK Symphony Orchestra To- Violin Concerto by Alexander Branches by John Cage. kyo for a performance of SibelGlazunov.

Fri 10 Mar, Royal Concertgeius’ Violin Concerto. The Tenth Sun 5 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €23-€36 Symphony by Shostakovich is bouw, 11:00, €20-€26 AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA also in the programme; Paavo MASTER PIANISTS SERIES 30 Järvi conducts.

This concert will mark the YEARS: JUBILEE CONCERT Sat 4 Mar, Royal Concertgefirst time that the masterful bouw, 20:15, €39-€102 The Concertgebouw’s MasAmsterdam Sinfonietta perter Pianists series celebrates forms Schoenberg's adaption GROOT CONCERTKOOR its 30th anniversary with a of Mahler's composition 'Das AMSTERDAM & SWEELINCK doubtlessly grand surprise pro- Lied von der Erde'. The ensemORCHESTRA gramme. Established in 1987, ble will also showcase works On two consecutive days in two Master Pianists has become

by Johann Strauss II and Jörg different Amsterdam churches, one of the most prestigious Widmann, and will feature the choir, orchestra and solopiano series in the world, Candida Thompson (violin), ists perform Rachmaninoff ’s hosting recitals by the world’s Thomas Oliemans (baritone) Isle of the Dead and Hymn most revered pianists, as well and Nikolai Schukoff (tenor). to the Cherubim, the Stabat as presenting promising young Fri 10 Mar, Muziekgebouw Mater by Karol Szymanowski talents. aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 and the Mala Suita by Witold Sun 5 Mar, Royal ConcertgeLutoslawski. bouw, 19:45, €88-€110

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL THE NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY - ST JOHN PASSION Founded in 1921, the Netherlands Bach Society is the country's oldest Baroque music ensemble. At this concert, the gifted musicians will be performing Bach's famed 'St John Passion', which was written during the legendary composer's first year as Leipzig's director of church music. Needless to say, the experienced ensemble will be in their element.

Sun 12 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 15:00, €37 MUSSORGSKY'S PICTURES AT AN EXHIBITION The orchestra performs Mussorgsky’s best-known work, plus parts of the Symphonie Espagnole by Édouard Lalo.

Dmitri Liss conducts and Valeriy Sokolov plays the solo violin.

Sun 12 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26 PIANO DUO SCHOLTES & JANSSENS AND FRIENDS: ART EXHIBITION Inspired by today’s main event, Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition, the performers add other works with a painterly association to the programme: a piano quartet by Mozart, whose music served as inspiration for Rothko, and the Preludes for piano by Gershwin, an avid painter himself. The musicians joining the piano duo are members of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra and the Netherlands Chamber Orchestra.

Sun 12 Mar, Amstelkerk, 16:00, €22.50 THE ROMANTIC FAMILY TREE This Amsterdam-based ensemble might be renowned as early-music specialists, but today they travel forwards in time to explore the different strands of the romantic, with music by Schumann and Schubert.

Sun 12 Mar, Waalse Kerk, 15:30, €22.50 UNDER CONSTRUCTION This concert sees two prolific Dutch ensembles joining forces: Dudok Quartet and Berlage Saxophone Quartet. The young performers' styles meld together perfectly, faithfully recreating works from pivotal composers Johann Sebastian Bach, Sweelinck, Arvo Pärt, Claude Debussy and Béla Bartók.

Wed 15 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 LISA BATIASHVILI, SHOSTAKOVICH AND BRUCKNER WITH THE RCO Vladimir Jurowski conducts as the orchestra and its artist-in-residence, violinist Lisa Batiashvili, perform Shostakovich’s First Violin Concerto and Bruckner’s First Symphony.

Thur 16 & Sun 19 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15/14:15, €25-€91

MONTEVERDI’S RITORNO The baroque ensemble B’Rock and a host of soloists perform Monteverdi’s baroque opera about the return of Ulysses to Ithaca.

Sat 18 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 13:00, €52/€59

Choice classical

MASTER PIANIST MAURIZIO POLLINI Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw welcomes Maurizio Pollini as part of the Master Pianists series, as the famous pianist celebrates his 75th birthday with a recital featuring works by Chopin, Debussy and others.

Sun 19 Mar, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €72/€90 CALEFAX - PILGRIMAGE This Dutch reed quintet's repertoire is eclectic and varied, spanning across Baroque music, Renaissance music and even jazz. For 'Pilgrimage', the talented five-piece will be performing works by revered composers known for their travels, including Franz Liszt, Dietrich Buxtehude, Ralph Vaughan Williams, Arvo Pärt and Francesco Tristano.

Wed 22 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 LIZA FERSCHTMAN & FRIENDS Dutch violinist Liza Ferschtman is celebrated for her magnificent stage presence, her passionate performances and her innovative programmes.

Liza has gathered a group of her talented musical friends for this concert, so expect some impressive musical chemistry as the octet perform works by Felix Mendelssohn, Mathilde Wantenaar and George Enescu.

Thur 23 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 :KLASSIFEST Experience pop temple Paradiso transformed into an orchestra pit for an evening of classical greats. New festival :klassifest celebrates the best of the classical world with bite-sized works, making this a perfect concert for starters as well as hardcore classical fans.

Expect centuries-spanning music by Purcell, Bartók, Satie, Bach, Mahler, Händel and Dvorák.

25 Mar, Paradiso, www.paradiso.nl KCOV EXCELSIOR SINGS BACH'S ST. MATTHEW PASSION This large amateur choir specialises in oratorios and thus was made for moments like this. So this year, they don’t only perform the St Matthew Passion, as they do annually, but they also follow it up with a performance of the St John’s Passion on 12 April. That’s dedication.

Sun 9 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 19:30, €33-€45 WIENER KLAVIERTRIO PLAYS BRAHMS The trio plays works by Mo-

Collegium Vocale Gent choir – will be playing through a programme dedicated entirely to Monteverdi's madrigals.

This loving celebration of Claudio Monteverdi recaptures the magic of the Italian composer's centuries-old masterpieces.

Sun 30 Apr, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 15:00, €37 SERGEY KHACHATRYAN: BRUCH'S VIOLIN CONCERTO NO. 1 Bruch’s First Violin Concerto – particularly its second half – is one of the Armenian violinists favourite pieces. Today, it is followed by DvoÐák’s Eighth Symphony.

Sun 30 April, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26

WORLD MINIMAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Hypnotic, repetitive, breath-taking and occasionally challenging: minimal music has been entrancing listeners with its deceptively simple means since the ’60s. That’s when composers such as Philip Glass, Steve Reich and Terry Riley began exploring new ways of musical expression, rebelling against the experimental twelve-tone music that was perceived as overly sophisticated and complicated. This festival takes place every two years, shining a light on the minimal masters, as well as contemporary acts from around who share minimal principles.

5-9 Apr, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ,www.muziekgebouw.nl zart, Schönberg and Brahms.

Mon 10 & Wed 12 April, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €31-€50 KCOV AMSTERDAM SINGS BACH'S ST JOHN PASSION The Amsterdam-based oratorio performs Bach’s St John Passion.

Wed 12 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €32.50-€35 ENSEMBLE MUSIKFABRIK – ZAPPA'S TAPES The music of Frank Zappa is as eclectic as it is skilful, covering a range of styles – from jazz and rock to Stravinsky.

This makes his music extremely difficult to emulate. Luckily, Ensemble Musikfabrik are up to the challenge: the top ensemble's improvisation of Zappa's musical catalogue is set to be a sublime display.

Thur 13 Apr, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €34 CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM: BACH'S ST JOHN PASSION Supported by the Orchestra of the Eighteenth Century, the choir sings Bach’s St John Passion – slightly less frequently performed, yet as much a masterpiece as the grander St Matthew Passion.

Thur 13 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €27-€72 EASTER CONCERT: HAYDN, GLUCK AND BEETHOVEN The orchestra celebrates Easter Sunday with a worldly, sparkling programme that includes Händel’s ‘Miracle’ Symphony, Johann Stamitz’s Clarinet Concerto and works

by Gluck and Beethoven.

With soloists Arjan Woudenberg (clarinet) and Nadia Wijzenbeek (violin). Federico Maria Sardelli conducts.

Sun 16 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26 SIMÓN BOLÍVAR NATIONAL YOUTH CHOIR: A CAPPELLA The choir, which has members from all over Venezuela, celebrates its tenth anniversary this year and comes to Amsterdam for an a-cappella performance of works by Palestrina, Monteverdi, Mendelssohn, Grieg, Pärt and others.

Wed 19 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €27-€60 LIZA FERSCHTMAN PLAYS BEETHOVEN'S VIOLIN CONCERTO The renowned violinist plays Beethoven's Violin Concerto.

Mendelssohn’s ‘Hebrides’ Overture is also on the programme.

Sun 23 Apr, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26

ADDRESSES Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 www.bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 www.bitterzoet.com De Duif Prinsengracht 756 www.deduif.net Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 https://carre.nl Sugarfactory Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y www.ziggodome.nl

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FREE LUNCHTIME CONCERT The Concertgebouw’s weekly free lunch-time concert usually takes place on Wednesdays and sometimes includes a public rehearsal by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra.

Wednesdays (except 19 Apr), Royal Concertgebouw, 12:30, free COLLEGIUM VOCALE GENT - MONTEVERDI MADRIGALS Just a few days before his 70th birthday, Belgian conductor Philippe Herreweghe – and his

KINGS OF WAR 13 APR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

mar & apr 2017

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CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING BIG NIGHT OUT DJs play house and clubby R&B while special effects and acrobats (!) create the atmosphere.

Every Thur, Escape, 23:00, €10 HOUSE RULES DJs play back to basics house music.

Every Fri, Escape, 23:00, €16 BRAINWASH DJs Raymundo and friends play big room house music. A proper night out with a crowded VIP and go-go dancers.

Every Sat, Escape, 23:00, €16

VBX Makcim (Russia), tINI (Germany) and Ferro (The Netherlands) play banging four to the floor stuff in this brand new club.

Fri 17 Mar, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, €15 GALACTIC FUNK Vintage electronic club music so cold and futuristic it gives you the shivers. DJ Dollkraut.

Sat 18 Mar, Canvas, 23:00-04:00, €15

IN TRANCE WE TRUST Yay! Trance is coming back.

Surrender to your guilty pleasures with tunes by DJs Adam Ellis, Stylex, Cor Fijneman, Kris O’Neil and others.

DOLLKRAUT LIVE Sat 25 Mar, Westerunie, 21:00Amsterdam’s Dollkraut is part of 05:00, €28 the Dutch analogue synthesizer FRITZ KALKBRENNER elite. His music may be brand GRAND DEPART TOUR new, but it feels like you’re stepping in a time machine to the A special early evening session New York City of the dark 80’s presented by German superstar when minimal wave music was DJ Fritz Kalkbrenner, most king. Add the visual element of famous for his 2009 tune ‘Sky synthesizers the size of space and Sand’. ships and you know you’ll have a Fri 31 Mar, De Marktkantine, brilliant Thursday night out.

20:00-23:00, €25 Thu 2 Mar, De School, QAPITAL 20:00, €10 One of the biggest hardstyle NGHTDVSN and early hardcore (also known Dance to German techno till as gabba) events of the year. you drop with Dominik Eulberg, Atmozfears, Rebellion, N-Vitral Reza Athar and DJ Hell. (live), Phuture Noize, Mind DiFri 3 Mar, De Marktkantine, mensions, Clockartz and many 22:00-05:00, €19 others play hard hitting beats to jump to. With MCs Livid ZEEZOUT WINTER FESTIVAL and DV8.

– ITALO DISCO AFTER PARTY Sat 1 Apr, Ziggo Dome, 22:00This is the official after-party 07:00, €57 for the daytime festival earlier MORGEN.AM today at Het Rijk van de Keizer and it’s going to be a good one.

Arjuna Schiks, AmsterThink loads of glittery disco dam-based producer of melodic balls and the sleaziest of vocodtechno plays a five-hour long er-heavy Italian club music from DJ set. the early 80’s.

Sat 1 Apr, Canvas, 23:00Sat 4 Mar, De Marktkantine, 04:00, €15 22:00-05:00, €15 WILTGROEI NOOFILTER Nine hours of jungle breaks and Amsterdam based DJ Mr. drum ‘n’ bass for the freaks in Mendel plays a soulful blend of Ruigoord’s cute village church. danceable stuff.

SAT 8 Apr, Ruigoord, 23:00Sat 4 Mar, Canvas, 08.00, €12.50 23:00-04:00, €15 AWAKENINGS 20 YEARS #2 WINTERCIRCUS: More techno to celebrate two PACHANGA BOYS decades of Awakenings with 10 hours of banging and trippy three back to back sets: Bertechno on the day God told us ghain residents Ben Klock & to take a break from it. He just Marcel Dettmann, Adam Beyer didn’t bang on about it long & Joseph Capriati and, early on, enough apparently…

2000 and One & Bart Skils.

Sun 12 Mar, Thuishaven, Fri 14 Apr, Gashouder, 22:0013:00-23:00, €15 08.30, €39.50 NATHAN FAKE LIVE One of the biggest names on James Holden’s Border Community label, Nathan Fake’s breakthrough moment dates from as far back as 2003 when his trancey ‘Outhouse’ turned out to be a massive cult hit.

Thu 16 Mar, De School, 20:00, €16

Choice clubbing

DGTL OPENING NIGHT Opening night with a modest techno line-up which may still appeal to the real freaks: Matthew Johnson, Tennis, Âme, Nuno Dos Santos, Patrice Bäumel and Applescal.

Fri 14 Apr, NDSM, 23:0006:00, €22.50

AWAKENINGS 20 YEARS #1 Twenty years of raving to all kinds of techno… It all happened at Gashouder and the organizing party has always been monumental. This is the first in a series of four parties to celebrate this serious milestone featuring a B2B set by former residents of Amsterdam’s first club of ‘international reputation’ RoXY Dimitri and Remy, Detroit legend Derrick May B2B Kevin Saunderson, Germany techno granddaddy Sven Väth, fellow German Pan-Pot and Russian connoisseur of dark underground electro Nina Kraviz.

Thu 13 Apr, Gashouder, 22:00-08.30, €39.50

ny’s Moodymann-influenced producer Motor City Drum Ensemble, energetic house DJ/ producer Koze, South Africa’s hot name Black Coffee, Midland (his ‘Final Credits’ was a huge underground club hit in 2016), number 1 in the Resident Advisor DJ Top 100 Dixon, Belgian’s premier house jock Move D, Dutch hard hitter Speedy J and UK funky producer Joy Orbison.

If you go only one day, be smart and let it be this one.

Sun 16 Apr, NDSM, 12:0023:00, €49.50 AWAKENINGS 20 YEARS #3 Again, a classic Awakenings line-up. Our favourite picks?

Chicago’s hard hitter DJ Rush and former Underground Resistance member Jeff Mills. Also spinning are Dave Clarke, Chris Liebing and Billy Nasty.

Sat 15 Apr, Gashouder, 23:3009.00, €39.50 AWAKENINGS 20 YEARS #4 The last one in the series with slightly more room for house and slower paced techno. DJs Richardo Villalobos, Seth Troxler, Luciano, Joris Voorn B2B Kölsch, Len Faki and Lauhaus.

Sun 16 Apr, Gashouder, 22:0009.00, €39.50 MAZZO IS BACK IS BACK A no doubt big and heavy party to memorize one of the first clubs in Amsterdam to focus on house, techno and rave music.

With DJs Dano, Per, Silicon Soul, Cellie, JP, Ambient Daan and Jorg.

Sat 22 Apr, RADION, 22:00, €22.50

ZEEZOUT WINTER FESTIVAL An absolutely brilliant and forward thinking line-up with Awesome Tapes From Africa who will be spinning the most obscure of African vintage house and electronica, global cult figure and synthesizer aficionado Legowelt and veteran producer of radical Italian rave Lory D. Other DJs include Mata Hari, Tom Trago, Woody, Interstellar Funk, Project Pablo, Max Abysmal, Hashman Deejay & Plo Man, Halve Soul and Carlos Valdes.

Sat 4 Mar, Het Rijk van de Keizer, 23:00-07:00, €36

DGTL DAY 1 A huge line-up for day one where unfortunately quantity seems to be favoured over quality. There are a few very notable highlights though: Skatebård, an all-round Norwegian artist – whose productions are informed AWAKENINGS by both italo disco and the best COOKIN’ 20 YEARS BY DAY of mid-90’s banging house – and Bohemian Tilburg based DJ The first-ever daytime Awaken- Redshape, a producer of crystal and Red Light Radio resident ings at Gashouder, with a classic clear, Detroit-like techno. Other Ben Penn plays boogie, funk and line-up: Jeff Mills, Ben Klock, names include Henrik Schwarz other delicious dance floor stuff. Chris Liebing, Adam Beyer and (live), Leon Vynehall, Jeremy Fri 17 Mar, Canvas, 23:00Joris Voorn.

Underground, Dollkraut, Space 04:00, €15 Sat 15 Apr, Gashouder, 11:00Dimension Controller (live), 22.00, €39.50 Tiga, Tom Trago, De Sluwe Vos,

CLONE RECORDS 25 YEARS It’s hard to believe that Rotterdam’s wicked electro, house and techno imprint is celebrating its 25th birthday – that’s a quarter of a century worth of underground club music! The high quality line-up includes label head honcho Serge Verschuur, Intergalactic Gary, Gustav Goodstuff, Zadig and – this is the true and very unusual highlight – Arpanet (live), a Kraftwerkian project by Gerald Donald, one half of legendary Detroit techno/ electro duo Drexciya.

Fri 31 Mar, Shelter, 23:0007:00, €18 Max Cooper, Ryan Elliott and Maceo Plex.

Sat 15 Apr, NDSM, 12:0023:00, €49.50 OI! The return of one of Amsterdam’s classic dubstep and bass nights. DJs Gomes and guests.

Sat 15 Apr, Paradiso, 24:0005.00, €20 DGTL DAY 2 Easily the best of the two festival days with a much more sophisticated line-up than day one. DJs include Germa-

CARTEL KINGS DAY A marathon session to celebrate King Willem Alexander's birthday with a few of the greatest names in the scene on the lineup: London’s producer of rock hard hitting house music Mr. G, Germany’s deep techno producer Prosumer, Berlin’s house and disco don Hunee, and italo disco specialist David Vunk.

Thu 27 Apr, Westerunie, 12:0007:00, €20 (€10 daytime only) ORANJEBLOESEM One of the best King’s Day parties in town, off the beaten track in the city’s East with a great view on the IJ lake. The line-up couldn’t be more diverse with Kompakt label boss Michael Mayer, Northern Irish techno producers Feel My Bicep, the brilliant Ghanaian producer Ata Kak, Glasgow’s veteran party duo Optimo, German house and techno hot shot Âme and many many other big talents.

Thu 27 Apr, Blijburg, 12:00, €34 25 YEARS DJ ISIS DJ Isis entered the scene as a very young protégée of two key figures of the young Amsterdam house scene: Dimitri and Marcello. See her spin a six-hour set of both classic and new house and techno in Paradiso’s main room alongside Kraut, Trippin Jaguar and Yør Kultura.

Sat 29 Apr, Paradiso, 23:0005:00, €28

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A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT WWW.AMSTERDAMART.COM.

1. SOUND IS DIFFERENT FROM NOISE

Rather than taking on the role of an outsider looking in, Gioia de Bruijn delves into her personal life to capture intimate scenes she is a part of. The aesthetic images of her naked friends and family snapshots show a delicate balance between straightforwardness and sensitivity.



18 MAR – 22 APR Flatland Gallery Lijnbaansgracht 314-318

2. LAST WORKS

The colourful images of Jan Roeland (who recently passed away at the age of 81) are built up with several layers of oil paint, revealing his interest in nature. Motives include branches, birds and flowers, depicted in his recognizable, abstract style.

11 MAR – 15 APR Slewe Kerkstraat 105 A

3. 1+100

Carine Weve’s project ‘1+100’ consists of 100 pencil drawings, produced according to a set of mathematical rules. At first, they seem very repetitive, but then the eye loses its grip on the structure and the delicate qualities of the compositions appear.

4 MAR – 8 APR C&H Gallery Tweede Kostverlorenkade 50

4. POPEL COUMOU

Using artists such as Mondrian, Van der Leck and Malevich for inspiration, it may come as no surprise that line and form are important elements in Popel Coumou’s work. She creates harmonious images that incorporate both a narrative and abstraction. Coumou alters the assumed reality of her landscape photographs by means of collage.

8 APR – 20 MAY Torch Lauriergracht 94

5. COME TO THE EDGE German artist Iris Schomaker is mostly known for her expressive large-scale watercolour and oil works on paper, featuring figures in various states of repose. Faceless characters are reading or resting, unaware of the viewer’s gaze. The anonymity of the subjects is an invitation to project our feelings onto the image.

UNTIL 26 APRIL Galerie Alex Daniëls – Reflex Amsterdam Weteringschans 79 A

FILM FAVOURITES CINEMASIA

Slowly but surely, CinemAsia, a celebration of Asian film, has made it to its 10th edition with the screenings of over 30 films from China, South Korea and Japan to India and Singapore. This year there will be a special focus on LGBTQ-themed films, including a seminar at Pakhuis de Zwijger on equal marriage rights in Taiwan.

7 – 12 March Kriterion & Rialto cinemasia.nl

AMERICAN HONEY

Driving around in a cramped van trying to sell magazines doesn’t sound like anyone’s dream come true, but for Star (newcomer Sasha Lane), a teenager with nothing to lose, this roadtrip with fellow misfits is just what she’s been waiting for. Riley Keough and Shia LaBeouf costar. The film was nominated for many awards, and took home four prizes from the British Independent Film Awards and the Jury Prize at the Canned Film Festival.

Directed by Andrea Arnold Release March 9

LIFE, ANIMATED

It’s an uplifting coming of age story not even Disney could have dreamed up: at the age of three, Owen suddenly stops talking. But through the stories and dialogues in animated Disney movies, young Owen finds a way to reconnect with his family, and with the world.

Directed by Roger Ross Williams Release: March 23

LADY MACBETH

Yes, there is actually a book called Lady Macbeth, an 1865 classic Russian novel about a desperate young housewife stuck with a cruel husband, who decides to find her entertainment somewhere else.

Transported to grim 19th century England the story works just as well.

Directed by William Oldroyd.

Release: April 13

HIDDEN FIGURES

Hidden Figures tells the incredible true story of three mathematicians at NASA who never got the credits they deserved, because they were women, and African-American. As played

by Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer and music artist-turned-actress Janelle Monáe, we won’t forget them again anytime soon.

The film won a plethora of awards, including Best Outstanding Performance by a Cast at the SAG Awards, and is nominated for three Oscars.

Directed by Ted Melfi Release: March 9

20TH CENTURY WOMEN

In Mike Mills’ breakout film Beginners Christopher Plummer was the heart and soul of the movie; for 20th Century Women all the credit goes to Annette Bening, whose performance as an eccentric yet resilient single mother of one (and surrogate mother to many) should at least have bagged her an Oscarnomination.

Directed by Mike Mills Release: April 20

FREE FIRE

With Free Fire, an irreverent 70s inspired shoot-out movie, director Ben Wheatley (Sightseers, High-Rise) proves he is indeed the next Guy Ritchie. (Before Ritchie defected to Hollywood, that is). With Brie Larson, Armie Hammer, Cillian Murphy and Sharlto Copley, among others.

Directed by Ben Wheatley Release: April 27.

CINEDANS

Is it film or is it dance? And does it really matter? This 14th edition of Cinedans will focus on Practice & Potential, new developments and procedures in dance on film. Don’t miss WIM, a documentary on Wim Vandekeybus (WIM) made by his sister, and The Ferryman, a choreographic exploration of rituals by Gilles Delmas and Damien Jalet.

9–12 March EYE cinedans.nl

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mar & apr 2017

KIDS & FAMILY VENUES AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows and seven actors in one terrifying experience!

Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons.nl.

Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18.

AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park.

Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, www.amsterdamsebos.nl.

Various times & prices.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Features quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including the diary itself.

Suitable for children over 10.

Prinsengracht 263-267, www.annefrank.org.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50.

ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes grazing amongst the zebras and wildebeests.

Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion, or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants.

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl.

Open daily 9:00-18:00; €20.50, ages 3-9 €17.

BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor go-karting track, for ages 8 and up.

Helmets and protective clothing are included. There’s also a large playground, bowling alley and restaurant.

Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet.com.

Open Mon-Fri 13:00-23:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-23:00; various packages available.

COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio.

Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, www.cobra-museum.nl.

Open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6.

Children’s Studio Sun 11:00-14:00; free.

HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhi-

bitions and a café.

Plantage Middenlaan 2A, www.dehortus.nl.

Open Mon-Sat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50.

HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated north of Amsterdam, between Zaanstad and Purmerend. Rent canoes, and row, pedal or even sailboats. www.hettwiske.nl.

KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located in the Vondelpark.

Children (ages 5 to 12) do everything to help run the restaurant.

Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkookkafe.nl.

Open daily 10:00-17:00; various prices.

DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam.

Dijksgracht 2, www.deklimmuur.nl.

Various times & prices.

LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling lanes, or pit yourself against the enemy in the laser-tag arena.

De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl.

Various times & prices.

MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM The collection of wax figures includes Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein.

Dam 20, www.madametussauds.nl.

Open daily 10:00-18:30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under 5 free.

MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL A subtropical swimming complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor pools and wave machines. Amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant.

De Mirandalaan 9, www.mirandabad.nl.

Various times & prices.

PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s waters make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages.

Ms van Riemsdijkweg www.pannenkoekenboot.nl.

Various times & prices.

HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids.

Kattenburgerplein 1, www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl.

Open daily 9:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under 5 free.

SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to science and technology.

Oosterdok 2,

www.e-nemo.nl.

Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under 4 free.

Highlight kids

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR The Tropenmuseum is renowned for its Junior building's interactive exhibitions introducing children to new cultures in a playful way.

Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.nl.

Open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Mondays during public & school holidays 10:00-17:00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under 4 free.

TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000 m2 indoor playground.

Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free.

VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior wing shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime.

Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.verzetsmuseum.org. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under 7 free.

WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs.

Westerpark, www.woestewesten.nl.

Playground supervisor present Mon & Tue 12:00-18:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00.

EVENTS NEIGHBOURFOOD MARKET Discover some of the tastiest food at the NeighbourFood Market, which stops off at the Westergasfabriek on every third Sunday of the month. It's great fun for all the family and there's a wealth of healthy produce and snacks to discover.

Mar & Apr, Westergasfabriek, www.neighbourfood.nl 100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL READY FOR TAKE-OFF Play air traffic control games, see a WWII bomb and figure out the future of Schiphol at this special centenary exhibition.

Amsterdam Museum, until 7 May HET NEDERLANDS MARIONETTENTHEATER A charming marionette theatre with performances for children aged 4 to 10 (sometimes to 12). Puppets bring magical tales like 'Rumpelstiltskin', 'Pinocchio' and 'The Magic Violin' to life. Productions are in Dutch but the music and visuals ensure that language is no barrier. various dates Mar & Apr, Het Nederlands Marionettent-

EASTER EGGS IN AMSTERDAM On Easter Sunday, local petting zoos in Amsterdam often host special parties with an egg hunt, egg decorating, festive treats and fun activities. Around Easter, farms in the Amsterdam area also hold 'lamb days' where kids can cuddle and feed new-born lambs. Look out for special egg hunts taking place around the Amsterdamse Bos, while Artis Royal Zoo always has a fun lineup of activities scheduled during the Easter holiday.

Alternatively, if cracked eggs are more your thing, set sail with the Pannenkoekboot (Pancake Boat) or head to one of the city's specialist pancake restaurants.

14-17 Apr, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com heater, www.nederlandsmarionettentheater.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN If you're serious about your ice skating, the Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. Plus there's a fever burning every Saturday night for the weekly disco skating sessions. until 26 Mar, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, www.jaapeden.nl HET FIEPTHEATER A celebration of Fiep Westendorp, the Dutch illustrator renowned for much-loved creations such as 'Jip en Janneke'. until Dec, Jewish Historical Museum, www.100jaarfiepwestendorp.nl DISCO SWIMMING Take a dip, dive and dance every Friday evening at this splashin' party in Amsterdam Zuid. The recreational pool is open to kids up to the age of 14, from 19:00 until 21:00. every Fri, Mirandabad, www. mirandabad.nl THE CASTLE IN THE AIR Set in the French countryside, 'The Castle in the Air' tells the story of Jeannot and Jeannette, two performers travelling to Paris. With catchy melodies, humour and a sprinkling of melancholy, Jacques Offenbach’s opéra comique makes the move from his small theatre in Paris to Amsterdam.

19 & 31 Mar, 17 & 30 Apr, Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, www.marionettentheater.nl

ARDEMUS QUARTET Four young international saxophone talents play a concert for younger audiences.

2 Apr, Vondelkerk, www.stadsherstel.nl ICP ORCHESTRA This orchestra's family concert will dazzle everyone – child and adult alike. Be it freak-out jazz or more classical structures, these improvisers have an apparent mind-meld that allows them to break every rule and push every boundary while remaining on the same energetic page. It all makes for quite the show.

Sat 15 Apr, Bimhuis, 16:00, €10-€16 THE LITTLE BIG CHEST Inspire and delight budding ballerinas with this performance by the Dutch National Opera and Ballet’s Junior Company. Designed for children aged four to six, it is an enchanting introduction to the world of ballet and theatre, depicting the story of colourful characters who magically appear from a toy chest.

Fri 21-Wed 26 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €11.50-€14.50 KING’S GAMES More than 1.5 million children at 7,500 schools around the nation engage in sports and exercise together as part of the King’s Games (Koningsspelen).

On this special occasion, the King’s Games replace their regular lessons and kids can enjoy a special national day of celebration, games and health.

22 Apr, various locations, www.amsterdam.nl/sport

62

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie.

The reception - with a welcome drink - usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathe website for movie and time. www.pathe.nl/event/gaynight GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month.

Club Lite, www.garboforwomen.nl

SPORTS

NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits.

Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15, various prices.

SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is "No Towel Night" (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry.

Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00.

Every Tue, Sauna NZ, www.saunanieuwezijds.nl

(Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS the month, drop all your Horsemen and Knights is the pretences and dance without big willy gay play and cruise pants at Club Church in Amparty, taking place in the sterdam. The dress code is afternoon every third Sunday strictly enforced: briefs and of the month. Dress code: jocks are welcome; swimnaked or underwear. ming trunks, boxers, sports Door open 15:00-16:00 shorts or going commando Eagle, www.horsemen.nl are also permitted. Board shorts, Bermudas or other MELLOW MONDAY streetwear prohibited.

Recharge after your busy Every Fri night & first Sat weekend with free foot and of the month, Club Church, shoulder massages, free 22:00-05:00, €10 snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas.

Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only.

EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, Amsterdam’s skating extravaganza. every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com AJAX Upcoming home league matches include: FC Twente (12 Mar); Feyenoord (2 Apr); AZ (5 Apr); sc Heerenveen (16 Apr).

Mar & Apr, Amsterdam ArenA, www.ajax.nl FRIDAY NIGHT RUN This free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters.

10 Mar & 14 Apr, Olympic Stadium, www.fridaynightrun.nl APOLLO BASKETBALL Upcoming home ties against other teams take place on 4 & 18 March and 1 & 18 April.

Mar & Apr, Apollohal, www. apollobasketball.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN The Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March as wellas a weekly disco skating session on Saturdays.

until 26 Mar, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, www.jaapeden.nl CRUYFF FOUNDATION 14K RUN A new running event in Amsterdam to celebrate the late Johan Cruyff, on what would have been his 70th birthday.

Weaving from the Amsterdam ArenA to the Olympic Stadium across town, the 14km running distance is a tribute to the number 14 shirt that Cruyff famously wore when he was the king of football.

25 Apr, Amsterdam ArenA, www.lechampion.nl MOKUMSE VROUWENLOOP This all-female run around the Sloterplas lake marks International Women's Day. Distances range from 7.5km to a 400-metre mother-and-daughter race.

5 Mar, AAC Amsterdam, www.mokumsevrouwenloop.nl HEAD OF THE AMSTEL Rowing regattas are always exciting affairs, whether you’re competing, watching from the banks in the city, or following the action from start to finish by biking with the rowers.

18 & 19 Mar, on the Amstel, www.headoftheriver.nl

ROKJESDAGLOOP An ode to the beginning of spring, the event invites female runners and walkers to take on a 5 or 10km course.

2 Apr, Amsterdam Science Park, www.rokjesdagloop.nl KORFBAL LEAGUE FINALS Korfbal is a ball sport resembling netball and is particularly popular in the Benelux.

8 Apr, Ziggo Dome, www. korfbalfinale.nl AMSTERDAM DIVING CUP Watch the Netherlands' best divers make a splash at the 22nd edition of this international diving tournament. Participants from around Europe will also join the Dutch divers on the 1m, 3m, 5m, 7.5m and 10m platforms.

13-16 Apr, Sloterparkbad, www.amsterdamdivingcup.nl KING’S GAMES More than 1.5 million children at 7,500 schools around the nation engage in sports and exercise together as part of the King’s Games (Koningsspelen). On this special occasion, the King’s Games replace their regular lessons and kids can enjoy a special national day of celebration, games and health.

22 Apr, various locations, www.amsterdam.nl/sport

MUSEUM TIPS amsterdammusea.org

1917. Romanovs & Revolution The End of Monarchy, shows the last years in the life of the family of the Russian Tsar, untill their deaths in 1917.

photo Maurice Boyer

Hermitage Amsterdam, till 17 September

Masterpiece: Pentecostés by El Greco

Good Hope

On show in the gothic interior in this church.

Thanks to a generous loan by Museo del Prado in Madrid.

South Africa and The Netherlands from 1600, shows the relationship between South Africa en the Netherlands.

De Nieuwe Kerk Amsterdam, till 9 April

Rijksmuseum, till 21 May

Glenn Brown – Rembrandt: after life Work of contemporary British artist Glenn Brown, his work is inspired by the work of Old Masters, Rembrandt among them.

Rembrandthuis, till 23 April

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

63

then & now

14 MAY 1940: FIRE AT THE PETROLEUM HARBOUR Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

CITY AT WAR

MARIETJE ZEEGERS BY JAN ZEEGERS CA 1912

Stad in Oorlog (City at War), the new exhibition at the Amsterdam City Archives (organised with the help of the Institute for War, Holocaust and Genocide Studies), puts on display a large collection of rarely-seen photographs of the city between 1940 and 1945, during the war and German occupation. From press photography to images captured by amateurs and even members of the resistance, this visual history of a dark period in Amsterdam’s past also reveals some heartwarming gems, such as shots of children being fed by organisations of community solidarity. This photograph taken from the Singel shows how the petroleum station across the IJ river, behind the clouds of billowing smoke, was set ablaze by resistance fighters so that it wouldn’t fall into German hands.

UNTIL 14 MAY Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.amsterdam.nl/stadsarchief

64

CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond amsterdam

LIFE ISN'T A TIPTOE THROUGH THE TULIPS. SHANNON HOON

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

FLOWER PARADE The annual Flower Parade is a feast brimming with beautiful colours and scents. Twenty huge floats and 30 lavishly decorated cars follow a 42-kilometre route from Noordwijk to Haarlem. Hundreds of thousands of visitors from Holland and abroad are drawn to the colourful flower spectacle every year, which starts at 9:30 in Noordwijk on Saturday 22 April, passes through the Keukenhof Gardens around 15:00, and finishes in Haarlem at the end of the day. Come early to find a good spot along the way, or simply hop on a train to Haarlem on Sunday to admire all the floats and flower arrangements that will be displayed there until 17:00.

Noordwijk to Haarlem bloemencorso-bollenstreek.nl

GETTING THERE: There are many spots from which to admire the parade along the 42-km route, but for a quick hop to Haarlem there are direct trains every hour from Central Station.

Travel Time: 15 minutes

100 YEARS MONDRIAN & DE STIJL An art movement created in Amsterdam in 1917 by artists, designers and architects, De Stijl is known for its focus on abstraction, bold colours and essential form. Its centenary is being celebrated all over the country, including at the Gemeente Museum of The Hague, which owns one of the biggest collections of De Stijl artwork, especially by Mondrian, one of the leading figures of the movement.

Four different exhibitions and many special events will place De Stijl centre stage this year at the Museum, starting with ‘The Invention of a New Art’, featuring a selection of works by Piet Mondrian and Bart van der Leck.

Until May 21 Gemeente Museum Den Haag Stadhouderslaan 41, Den Haag gemeentemuseum.nl

GETTING THERE: Catch an Intercity train from Central Station to Den Haag, then transfer to Tram 16 and get off at the Gemeentemuseum.

Travel Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

MUSEUM NIGHT ROTTERDAM Just like Amsterdam, Rotterdam has its own Museumnacht, during which over 40 museums in the country’s modern art capital open their doors way past regular hours and offer special programming.

Paint some fried eggs and try your chops at virtual disco at the Kunsthal, shoot some bananas with paint bombs at the Nieuw Institut’s carnival, explores reality’s boundaries during the illusionist show at the Eye Hospital, or enjoy a surreal evening of performances at the Boijmans van Beuningen.

4 March Rotterdam, various locations museumnacht010.nl

GETTING THERE: There are many trains to Rotterdam from Central Station every hour, but the Intercity Direct is the fastest.

Travel Time: 45 minutes

65 THE RHYTHM OF RELATIONS OF COLOUR AND SIZE MAKES THE ABSOLUTE APPEAR IN THE RELATIVITY OF TIME AND SPACE. PIET MONDRIAN

A MUSEUM IS A PLACE WHERE ONE SHOULD LOSE ONE'S HEAD. RENZO PIANO

© ANNA BOUKEMA FOTOGRAFIE

MOVIES THAT MATTER FESTIVAL

KEUKENHOF GARDENS Keukenhof Gardens is considered the most popular flower garden in the world. The rainbow landscape of seven million blooms sprawled across 32 hectares is impressively redesigned each year. This year’s theme, ‘Dutch Design’, highlights renowned De Stijl artists like Mondrian and Rietveld, with many activities taking place on various weekends.

From 23 March Stationsweg 166, Lisse keukenhof.nl

GETTING THERE: Get a combi-ticket that includes bus and entrance to the gardens. Hop on a train to Schiphol then take bus 858 from Schiphol Plaza.

Travel Time: 45-60 minutes

CAFE THEATRE FESTIVAL A pub crawl with fun stage performances? The Café Theatre Festival takes over 27 different cafés in Utrecht, which for three days offer podiums to a huge variety of young stage talents. Language is not such a big issue as there’s a lot more than theatre: also expect opera, dance, mime, music and much more. Several thematic routes are mapped out for the public, and best of all, admission is free – but not the drinks… (Of course, a small contribution is always appreciated by the budding entertainers.)

3, 4 and 5 March Utrecht, various locations cafetheaterfestival.nl

GETTING THERE: Many trains run to Utrecht from Central Station every hour.

Travel Time: 30 minutes

How do we turn the spotlight big and bright on human rights? According to Foundation Movies that Matter, through the most democratic and fun way possible: film.

Following in the footsteps of the Amnesty International Film Festival, Movies That Matter was launched in 2006. Every year dozens of feature films and documentaries (either in English language or subtitled) are selected especially with a view to stir and stimulate awareness on the human condition (but not always as seriously as you’d expect, with some movies finding that humour or romance can pack just as much of a punch). Most screenings are followed by debates and talks with international filmmakers, politicians or activists.

24 March – 1 April The Hague, various locations moviesthatmatter.nl

GETTING THERE: Hop on a direct train to Den Haag from Central Station.

Travel Time: 50 minutes

66

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

ASHLEIGH GILL AND LUCY HENNESSEY, 22, FROM THE UK ‘We went to the Heineken Museum, and then on a whim we decided to also visit the Cocktail Museum from House of Bols. It was such an unexpected pleasant surprise. It’s a lot of fun, very cool, we highly recommend it!’

MARIE BALIVET, 23, WORKS IN MARKETING, FROM BRUSSELS ‘I’m a big fan of the Anne Frank Museum, but if I had one piece of advice, I would really say: rent a bike to get around the city. It’s so bike-friendly, and the canal ring is beautiful so it’s much nicer to see it at your own pace, without the hassle of public transportation.’

CARLTON CHUNG AND HIS WIFE, 33, BANKER FROM MALAYSIA ‘If you’re going to tour the canals, you should stop at the famous canal house museums, such as the Grachtenhuis or the Museum Van Loon. They are beautifully decorated inside and have amazing gardens – and you learn a lot about life in Amsterdam during the Golden Age.’

PAUL JACQUART, 23, AND JULIEN SPACER, 27, FROM BORDEAUX, WORK IN MARKETING ‘The Foodhallen is the best place to get lunch, with so many different stalls offering various world foods. It’s convivial and every place we tried was delicious.’

SOLON SOLONOS, 25, AND GEORGIA ANTONIOU, 23 FROM GREECE AND CYPRUS, STUDENTS ‘Amsterdam has so many amazing apple pies! We didn’t know it was a Dutch specialty. The best ones we found were at Winkel 43 and Café Papeneiland in De Jordaan.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic/Saskia Franken deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Ann Doherty contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Catalina Iorga, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Imke Walenberg, Barbara van den Berg/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Sarah Gehrke, Alison McGarry & Rhys Elliott), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Deborah van der Schaaf

Enjoy a unique shopping experience with more than 100 stores, cafés and restaurants. Relax and take the daily Shopping Shuttle that departs every day at 10.00 in front of the Park Plaza Victoria Amsterdam. We are happy to welcome you.

250 FASHION BRANDS | 30-70% SAVINGS | OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK DENHAM, FOSSIL, GANT, GUESS, LACOSTE, NIKE, OILILY, REPLAY, SCOTCH & SODA, SUITSUPPLY, SUPERTRASH, VAN BOMMEL, VILLEROY & BOCH AND MANY MORE

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STEDELIJK

MUSEUM

Isa Genzken, Untitled, 2012, courtesy Galerie Buchholz, Cologne/Berlin and Hauser & Wirth, Zurich/London. Photo: Delfanne

Piet Mondriaan, Composition No. IV, with Red, Blue, and Yellow, 1929, coll. Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam

CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF DE STIJL

stedelijk.nl

DE STIJL AT THE STEDELIJK Explore De Stijl and its great impact on arts December 3, 2016 – May 21, 2017 CHRIS BEEKMAN, DE STIJL DEFECTOR Meet one of the most politically active artists of De Stijl April 8 – September 17, 2017 DE STIJL AND METZ & CO De Stijl-designs for one of the most famous Amsterdam department stores: Metz & Co October 14, 2017 – January 28, 2018

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