A-mag November/December 2017 by amsterdam&partners

Contemporary Chinese artist Zeng Fanzhi (b. 1964) is fascinated by Vincent van Gogh. In this intimate presentation, Zeng Fanzhi presents existing and new work inspired by Van Gogh. Four of the ﬁve captivating paintings were created especially for this presentation. Zeng Fanzhi | Van Gogh is a world ﬁrst, now on display at the Van Gogh Museum. Partners of the museum

www.vangoghmuseum.com/zengfanzhi

(THE TALENT ISSUE)

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SECRET LIVES OF WAITERS

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NOV & DEC 2017

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 5 N0 6 NOV & DEC 2017

IN MEMORIAM

P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE In Amsterdam, chances are that the waiter serving your drink is using this day job to finance other endeavours. A breeding ground for artists, designers and entrepreneurs of all confessions, the city's blowing some serious wind beneath its creatives' wings.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The Amsterdam Light Festival returns with a twist, masterpieces from the Golden Age are coming home to roost at the Hermitage Museum – and much, much more.

P.35 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch gives you more than a bird's eye view on Schiphol Airport, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.69 CLOSING Get out of town with our adventurous suggestions, and top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.55 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief, A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

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CONTENTS

Our mayor has died. As I’m writing these words, thousands of Amsterdammers of all ages and backgrounds are on their way to offer him a last tribute at the Concertgebouw. The long line of mourners bears testimony to how beloved he was. Eberhard van der Laan was many things. A brilliant lawyer. A minister for living, working and integration in the centre-right cabinet of prime minister Balkenende. A father of five children. But what he will be remembered most for can best be described by the old fashioned Dutch word for mayor, ‘burgervader’: citizen-father. He epitomized just that. Compassionately, but with a firm hand, he fathered over his Amsterdammers, who always came first. At Amsterdam Marketing, we knew him for his devotion to his work as mayor. He was a passionate ambassador of our ‘180 Amsterdammers’ project. Direct contact with his fellow Amsterdammers, in all their diversity, was his top priority. More than anyone else, he was aware of how crucial it is to strengthen the city’s economic position, not as a matter of prestige, but because of its importance to local people. Under his leadership Amsterdam underwent a true renaissance, and he took care to ensure that every Amsterdammer was able to share in this success. The mayor was not one for unnecessary rules and regulations, but he also knew where to draw the line, though always with a sense of humour, perhaps his strongest weapon. ‘Go on then, boo me,’ he told hardcore Ajax supporters, when he moved the club’s championship celebrations from Museumplein to the ArenA Park. ‘I had an Ajax season ticket when you were still watching Sesame Street in your pyjamas.’ Eberhard van der Laan claimed never to have had the ambition to be a mayor of Amsterdam, but he possessed precisely the right qualities to be one. He died on 5 October 2017, aged 62, in his home on the Herengracht in Amsterdam. We, who knew him personally, will never forget him.

nov & dec 2017

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

‘THE HIGHEST PLACE I’VE EVER BEEN, FROM MEMORY, WAS AMSTERDAM.’

All the latest cultural news, plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

A SURPRISE ADMISSION FROM NICK HEWER, PRESENTER OF BRAINY BRITISH GAMESHOW COUNTDOWN.

text Mark Smith

CROSS ROADS

SPLASHTAG An online protest about the relative lack of female public toilet facilities in Amsterdam has poured forth after a judge in the city fined a woman €90 for peeing in public then told her she should have used a men’s urinal when she was caught short. In Amsterdam there are 35 public urinals for men and just four conveniences for women, according to Het Parool newspaper.

The future of traffic could involve dispensing with traffic lights, if a new Amsterdam study is to be believed. In May 2016 officials switched off the lights at Alexanderplein and found that journeys became faster and the interactions between road users became more pleasant. ‘This pilot showed that less regulation can lead to responsible and alert road users,’ Peter Litjens, the vice mayor for traffic, told The Guardian.

FLASH MOB October saw the opening of a hotel claiming to be Amsterdam’s most lavish hospitality venture to date. Located in the city’s early 20th-century Royal Industrial Club building, the Hotel TwentySeven consists of 16 soundproofed suites featuring handmade silk carpets and marble bathrooms. Other grandiose design flourishes include a hand-blown glass chandelier plummeting four stories through the hotel’s atrium. twentysevenhotel.com

MAKING TRACKS The piper is calling the tune at Central Station, where railway authorities have been broadcasting music from the distant Efteling amusement park in an effort to drive away loiterers. The somewhat manic fairground music that usually accompanies Efteling’s iconic waterlily and carnival rides is being played on repeat in the IJ passageway early in the morning and late at night.

7 ‘MY ENGAGEMENT RING WAS SWIFTLY BOUGHT FROM A DISPENSER OUTSIDE A PROSTITUTE’S WINDOW.’ ANNA WHITEHOUSE, A.K.A. BLOGGER MOTHERPUKKA, RECALLS THE ROMANCE OF LIFE IN THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT, IN NEW BOOK PARENTING THE SH*T OUT OF LIFE.

‘WE ARE VERY HAPPY WITH DOROTA KOBIELA AND HUGH WELCHMAN’S CINEMATIC MASTERPIECE LOVING VINCENT, THE FIRST EVER FULLY PAINTED FEATURE FILM.’ VAN GOGH MUSEUM DIRECTOR AXEL RÜGER ON VINCENT’S LATEST BRUSH WITH THE MOVIES.

FRANK REAPPRAISAL A retired FBI agent has launched a cold case review aiming to identify those who may have betrayed the hiding place of Anne Frank and her family to the Nazis in 1944. The Anne Frank House has welcomed the initiative, making its archives available to Vince Pankoke and his 19-strong team of forensic experts, who hope to use big data techniques to glean fresh insights. The group is working with Xomnia, an Amsterdam-based company that specialises in analysing large amounts of information. One of the architects of the FBI’s behavioural science unit, Roger Depue, is also on board, analysing contemporary witness statements and interviews, according to a report in The Guardian. The project hopes to unveil its findings on 4 August 2019, on the 75th anniversary of the arrest of the Frank family.

BEEP POETRY A renowned Amsterdam artist is mounting a charm offensive on behalf of the city’s scooter-riding community. After noticing that Amsterdam’s scooter users were being spoken about in a derogatory manner, Jan Hoek (33) worked with a small team of African specialists – including Sudanese car-sprayer Mamoon Hashim and Cameroonian mechanic Bacardi Zouberou – to transform Amsterdam vehicles recruited via Facebook. Photographs of the eye-catching results, including a ‘Discoscooter’ bedecked with colourful lights and a ‘Hamburgerscooter’ complete with a bun-bedecked helmet, are on display at the Tijdelijk Museum, the pop-up exhibition inside the Bijlmerbajes former prison that’s now a centre for asylum seekers. A keen traveller, Hoek says he was inspired by the chauffeurs of Nairobi, who ‘pimp’ their minibuses to reflect their personalities.

FORK POSTERITY Where to go to fi nd that perfect marrow drill or absinthe spoon? A collection of old-fashioned kitchen utensils that belonged to the Amsterdam restaurant critic Johannes van Dam is now on show at the Museum Van Loon. As well as being a revered food writer, Van Dam (1946-2013) was a keen collector of kitchen gizmos, and his unique culinary haul has found a home below stairs at the canal-side museum, which offers a glimpse into domestic life on the Grachtengordel in times past. Museum director Tonko Grever has admitted that he’s not entirely sure what some of the devices are for. Particularly mysterious are the spoons, including one with a slider in the middle: ‘I’m hoping visitors might be able to shed some light,’ he said. museumvanloon.nl

nov & dec 2017

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘DESIGNATED SURVIVOR IS SO CLEARLY NOT FILMED IN AMSTERDAM, BUT STILL LOOKS PRETTY THANKS TO WESTERTOREN AND SOME DIGI-PIGEONS.’ TWITTER USERS INCLUDING @JORISVDBERG SPOT THAT NETFLIX’S VERSION OF AMSTERDAM IS COMPRISED OF FAKE VIEWS.

TOP 5 to do

It may be set in Amsterdam, but the latest ad for Dutch fashion label Scotch & Soda is a far cry from the stately Keizersgracht where the company is headquartered. For its Fall/ Winter ’17 campaign film, currently online and in cinemas, the brand created a whole ‘Atlas of Amsterdams’ from locations around the world that happen to be named after our fair city. Most prominent are the frozen fjords and ice-caps belonging to Amsterdam in the Arctic, a location that necessitated a 41-hour trek by plane and boat to an island on the 80th parallel home to more polar bears than people. ‘We want to call out our city’s free-thinking, its stubbornly curious spirit – pay tribute to it,’ explained the brand’s creative director Marlou van Engelen.

DAM SQUARED

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 DUTCH MASTERS After hundreds of years away in Russia, a vast collection of Golden Age masterpieces is temporarily coming home to Amsterdam for a gorgeous exhibition at the Hermitage Museum. UNTIL 27 MAY 2018 Hermitage Amsterdam, Amstel 51 hermitage.nl

2 AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL The city spends the holidays illuminated by dozens of artworks with a heart and a conscience. Discover them on foot or by boat. FROM 30 NOVEMBER Various locations amsterdamlightfestival.com

3 DA BOUNCE URBAN FILM FESTIVAL

After an award-winning streak, black cinema is finally getting the spotlight it deserves. Or is it? Find out by indulging in a slew of great movies about diversity at the Da Bounce Urban Film Festival. 1-5 NOVEMBER Pathé Arena, ArenA Boulevard 600 and Bijlmer Parktheater, Anton de Komplein 240 dbuff.nl

4 MUSEUMNACHT Amsterdam‘s museums stay open until the wee hours, with special events, parties and exhibitions. 4 NOVEMBER Various locations museumnacht.amsterdam

5 THE SLEEPING BEAUTY The Dutch National Ballet‘s holiday season production is always a dazzling show, a fairy tale for young and old to enjoy during the cold weather months. FROM 9 DECEMBER National Opera Ballet, Amstel 3 operaballet.nl

‘HOW PITIFUL THE RESULT, HOW DAFT THE WHOLE BUSINESS, HOW GROSSLY STUPID. I STILL SHUDDER AT THE THOUGHT. IT WAS THE WORST TIME I’VE EVER GONE THROUGH.’ VINCENT VAN GOGH REFLECTS ON TIME SPENT IN AMSTERDAM, IN A LETTER TO THEO.

‘EVEN ON A GREY DAY AMSTERDAM BLOWS ME AWAY. ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CANALS LOOK LIKE MIRRORS.’ INSTAGRAM PHOTOGRAPHER @N0RAMARIA REFLECTS ON THE CITY’S CHARMS.

ALL’S FARE

BATH PARTY The newly reconfigured treasures of the city’s Stedelijk modern art museum will be unveiled inside the institution’s bathtubshaped building in mid-December, in a route that’s to be known as ‘Stedelijk Base’. Comprising works from the late 19th century through to the present day, the collection of 750 items is presented in a circuit designed by OMA, the iconic architectural practice established by Rem Koolhaas. stedelijk.nl

Geek bible Wired magazine has declared Amsterdam the ‘ideal place for start-ups to flourish’, pointing to a host of promising new tech endeavours currently in development in our midst. Onesto-watch include a waste-reducing shopless service called Picnic that delivers groceries via its fleet of 200 electric vehicles, and Bomberbot, which uses puzzle games to teach coding to tweens.

BOATYLICIOUS A gorgeous new picture book brings Amsterdam to life through depictions of its world-famous waterways. Amsterdam: A City to Sail is the debut book by Demelza Rafferty, a New York-based designer and art director who lived in Amsterdam for 13 years and wanted to preserve her memories of the city for her children. ‘I wanted to make a memento for myself and my family,’ she said of the project. ‘The canals are a defining feature of the city and I was always fascinated by the number and variety of watercraft on any given day.’ The elegant line drawings are based on hundreds of photographs taken by Rafferty during her time in Amsterdam, and are influenced by her collection of vintage picture books. amsterdamacitytosail.com

PART I UP CLOSE

talent

SECRET LIVES OF WAITERS In the valhalla of world-class talents that is Amsterdam, chances are high that the waiter who brings you your next foamy cup of cappuccino is a rising star in disguise. Dia Dia Dia, 26, from Belgium WORKS AT: CAFÉ STRUIK TALENT: VISUAL ARTIST AND DJ FIND HIM AT: DIADIADIA.BE Dia Dia Dia (he insists on being called by his professional name) studied visual arts and photography in Belgium before moving to Amsterdam, where he saves the money he makes as a waiter to buy photo gear. When he’s not keeping bar, the shy, quiet artist indulges his passion for photography, DJs on the weekend (an eclectic mix of hip-hop, techno house and disco funk), and creates visuals for other musicians and electro festivals. ‘I feel like I’m very lucky with whom I’ve met in Amsterdam: a lot of unique people who push me in all my different projects. Creatives like to work together, help each other out. It’s a very different spirit than in Brussels or London.’

Behind almost every local waiter hides an artist or entrepreneur who has chosen to power the city with their skills. Amsterdam’s found many ways to return the favour with the might of its institutional and cultural support. text Catalina Iorga box-outs Marie Charlotte Pezé

A PROLIFIC HOTBED

hen you’re sitting on the terrace of an Amsterdam café on a cold winter day, your lap warmed by a courtesy blanket (a staple of the local horeca culture), chances are that the waitress who brings you your hot chocolate with a smile is living a double-life. When she’s hung up her apron, she’ll be off to her photography studio, her ballet rehearsal, or the co-working space she shares with other designers. The local dining behind-the-scene is rich with hard-working creatives waiting for their break – and Amsterdam is a prime spot to catch it. Each year, the city plays host to more than 300 festivals. From electronica to cello, from cutting-edge photography to fine art, and from contemporary dance to classical ballet, no creative stone is left unturned. Synonymous with trade since the 13th century, the Dutch capital also established itself as one of the world’s major creative hubs as early as the Golden Age. Four hundred years later, creativity still seeps through Amsterdam’s narrow streets and stately mansions, its high-rise neighbourhoods, its industrial heritage, its modernist icons, its museums and concert halls, its universities and art academies and, most importantly, its people. Some of the city’s up-and-comers might have

to spend their nights mixing drinks to finance their artistic ambitions, but thanks to Amsterdam’s powerful institutional support for the new generation of talent, they’re bound to make their mark sooner rather than later. MAKING MUSIC AND MOVES No trip to Amsterdam is complete without a visit to its pop temple, Paradiso, a converted church near Leidseplein. From its punk-infused era to today’s festivals such as Sonic Acts (an event at the intersection of developments in contemporary art, technology, music and science), this beloved institution has done it all. Among Paradiso’s yearly events is the Grote Prijs van Nederland, the biggest Dutch music competition. Since 1983, ambitious young musicians compete for cash prizes and the chance to headline major festivals such as Parkpop. And the alumni of the Conservatorium of Amsterdam (CvA)’s trailblazing Pop Department, which focuses on teaching students to write original rock and pop music, have won more than a dozen Grote Prijs awards over the past decade. The CvA is the Netherlands’ largest music academy and helps prepare more than 1,200 students for careers as internationally acclaimed composers, performers and leaders in genres like

PART I UP CLOSE

talent

Margreet De Bruin, 28, from Zeeland

WORKS AT: HOTEL JANSEN TALENT: MUSICIAN FIND HER AT: FACEBOOK.COM/ MAGGIEANDTHEJAR As a little girl, Maggie really wanted to play the saxophone, but she couldn’t hold the darn thing; so instead she learned the trumpet, joined the school orchestra and started singing. By the time she’d grown enough for her favourite instrument, she had found her life’s calling: becoming a singersongwriter. Why did you become a waitress? I tried some office jobs but I really can’t fit into the 9-5 culture, sitting in front of a computer filling out Excel sheets all day. Behind the bar, you connect with people, you have funny, interesting conversations. It’s also a good place to network as a musician – better than an office! How do you balance both lives? Our band Maggie and the JAR plays a lot in the summer. We release a couple of singles, tour, then head back to the studio to write and record a new song or an album. That’s when I have to find a job again to cover my life expenses. It takes a lot of hard work and dedication to chase your dreams; I am happy, but my days are very long. But it’s worth it... Being a musician is like having a strange addiction, the ups and downs, the rush and magic of the stage – and sometimes the deep disappointments. We wrote a song about Venezuela, ‘Resurrection’, and the people used it as the freedom song of a nation during the protests. So now we have a big following in South America. Of course the dream is to inspire the world and play big arenas, but my goal is simply to cut off all the side jobs and make music 24/7.

‘Behind the bar you connect with people, you have funny, interesting conversations’

13 classical and jazz. Rising talents only have to go as far as the Royal Concertgebouw near Museumplein. The neoclassical concert hall was praised for its world-renowned accoustics by one of its illustrious former conductors (and CvA alumnus) Bernard Haitink who described it as ‘the best instrument of the orchestra’. Ballet may well be at home in Amsterdam, thanks to prestigious schools such as the Amsterdam University of the Arts’ Theatre and Dance department, but the city also prides itself on a steady stream of new contemporary dancers that often take the stage at venues such as the Flemish Arts Centre De Brakke Grond. Self-described as a place for ‘innovation, building bridges and artistic guts’, De Brakke Grond’s eclectic programming moves swiftly between digital culture, art, dance, fashion, film, theatre and photography. It also participates in large international events such as Unseen, one of the

world’s leading platforms and festivals for contemporary photography. THE TALENT MAGNET ‘We have a lot of talent development programmes, such as the ING-backed Unseen Talent Award, which is all about giving a platform to young talents,’ says Emilia van Lynden, artistic director at Unseen. This year, the €10,000 award went to young German artist Andrea Grützner and her work on architecture as a metaphor for orientation or alienation. Bringing talent from abroad and giving it an opportunity to shape the future of photography is part and parcel of Unseen’s work. ‘CO-OP, our new initiative, is dedicated to art collectives, a new trend in the art world, as lots of artists aren’t traditionally repped by galleries anymore. We found some as far as Nepal and Bangladesh, and brought them to Amsterdam to showcase the talent that is out there,’ Van Lynden adds.

Aster Schreuder Hes, 21, from Naarden

Aster’s father went to art school, so she grew up visiting museums and painting with her dad on weekends. While working as a waitress to support herself, she creates beautiful designs which she custom-paints on jeans and other articles of clothing. Our flowerdenim-jacket envy says the fashion world will come calling soon. ‘A lot of my work is inspired by pop culture. I grew up in a time where social media started playing a big role in our lives, so I am trying to let my Instagram account become my own museum where I show my creations. Amsterdam is a great city to be a student and artist: it offers so many opportunities to express your creativity and personality, and it’s very fashion-forward. It’s also very inspiring, with of course the museums and the street art, but also a ton of hip places where artists hang out, and show their very unique styles.’

WORKS AT: DE WAAG TALENT: FASHION PAINTER FIND HER ON: INSTAGRAM @ASTERDEBORA

PART I UP CLOSE

talent

Jordi Ariza Gallego, 30, from Breda WORKS AT: CAFÉ SCHILLER TALENT: EVENT PRODUCER FIND HIM AT: ULTRASEXI.COM

Jordi wears his trademark colourful, glittery eyebrows even at Café Schiller on famed Rembrandtplein. Debonair with a flair, he describes his day job as ‘bar-dancing’ – approaching customers with the same graceful ease as you imagine him after night has fallen, strutting through the clubs where he organises fabulous events with his longtime friend and business partner at Ultra Sexi, a platform created for (and with) young talents. You have your own company; why do you wait tables? I need cash flow for my decadent lifestyle! I like good food and I’m torched by my sense of style… And the events we organise are not about the money. They are for young artists and queer people who want to have fun. Is it like living a double-life? Working at the café and organising these events are both about hospitality, and I really like serving people. I am just an exaggerated version of myself at night: more obscure, or more feminine… One time a customer at Schiller told me ‘I find it very disturbing that you’re not wearing your glitter today!’ That’s really Amsterdam. It’s so much wilder and colourful than Rotterdam, where I did my studies. You can meet a doctor in a bikini, or a lady dressed as a cowboy. I love that I can go out fully dressed up and still be approached as a human. What’s next for you? We’re developing a project of opening our own space: an exhibition/coffee place during the day, and theatrical, artistic club at night – for fashion people, designers, birds of paradise. It’s eight years of my life finally coming together. I can’t imagine I’ll be able to steer a gigantic group of queer performers and tend bar at the same time, so I’ll have to reevaluate my daily life, but I won’t lose the interactions with people and that’s what matters most to me.

‘I love that in Amsterdam, you can meet a doctor in a bikini, or a lady dressed as a cowboy’

Mercedes Parellada, 36, from Argentina

WORKED AT: SUPPER CLUB, BAR ITALIA TALENT: YOGA TEACHER FIND HER AT: THEBREATHINGSPACE.NL

One of the initiators of Unseen (alongside creative agency Vandejong, and Platform A, an office for cultural business development), was Foam, Amsterdam’s contemporary photography epicentre. Not only is the museum’s third floor on picturesque Keizersgracht especially designated for Foam 3h, its exhibition space for new talent, but Foam also regularly acquires exciting new work for its own growing collection. Add to that the annual international Foam Magazine Talent Call for artists between 18 and 35 – which received a whopping 1,790 submissions from 75 countries in 2017 – and you’ve got yourself the epitome of an international breeding ground. Having launched in 2009, NEU NOW also quickly positioned itself as a transdisciplinary launchpad for Europe’s exceptional

Mercedes’ dancing career with the Dutch National Ballet was cut short by an injury; but armed with the discipline of her trade (‘like military service with a tutu,’ she describes it), she quickly became a star waitress and then manager, first at Supper Club and later at Bar Italia. Until yoga reconnected her with her body, and changed her life path. She just opened her own studio, the Breathing Space. How did the career transition go? A great aspect of hospitality jobs is that they’re incredibly flexible – and if you’re good at what you do, your spot waits for you. For my first yoga studio, I decreased my evenings at the restaurant from five days, to four, to three... etc, until I was ready to go off on my own. How does leaving feel? I love what I’m doing now, but I miss the restaurant life. I met so many amazing people: musicians, artists, directors... It’s a little world in itself. We have such a strong bond, these people are my family. They were all present when I opened the yoga studio in September. And when they call me to help for a shift, I still go, for old times’ sake.

emerging artists. ‘Our top priority is to offer artists exposure to industry professionals who can create future career and creative opportunities,’ says Jessica Maxwell, Project Manager at the NEU NOW festival, an initiative of ELIA. Short for the European League for Institutes of the Art, ELIA is a membership organisation for higher arts education and boasts around 250 members in 49 countries, including the internationally sought-after Gerrit Rietveld Academie, where nearly half of the student population comes from abroad. In fact, NEU NOW chose to be based in Amsterdam for a few years because the city ‘nurtures its cultural cachet with its renowned institutions, a vibrant festival scene, and a cross-pollination of creative practices,’ Maxwell explains.

PART I UP CLOSE

talent

‘Amsterdam is a little land of possibilities: every day, creative people cross your path’

Jennifer Duursma, 23, from Callantsoog WORKS AT: STRANDRESTAURANT WOEST TALENT: GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jennifer studied marketing and communication before realising that she liked to tell stories with images rather than text. Word of mouth on her talent spread after she designed a logo for a friend’s fashion company two years ago, and she currently splits her time between her quiet village where she works as a waitress, and Amsterdam where she’s spreading her creative wings at Impact Hub. ‘I have two different lives: Amsterdam creative vs. old-town waitress. I love them both – one is the gateway to my future, and the other is filled with old friends, great colleagues and fun contact with the restaurant guests.’

Francesca Aikman, 27, from England WORKS AT: A RESTAURANT ON HAARLEMMERSTRAAT TALENT: INK PAINTER Francesca makes ink paintings from the photographs she takes of the city. ‘When I first came here to complete a residency at OT301, I was sitting at a café with my sketchpad and I asked the waitress about artist galleries and studios. She replied, ‘There is no art scene in Amsterdam, honey, trust me.’ I’m so glad I didn’t listen. The studio I have now is surrounded by artists, musicians – so many creative people.’

Ana V. Martins, 32, from Portugal

Cross-pollination is the creative law in town. In Amsterdam, hybrid venues in reclaimed industrial spaces, which cater to multiple tastes and disciplines – going from hip restaurant by day to thumping techno club by night, from photography exhibitions to literature festivals – have become the norm. One such example is Tolhuistuin, a frequent location for Paradiso gigs that proudly holds a 24-hour licence – something only eight other venues can brag about. CREATIVE HUBS Starting in 2013, under the leadership of late mayor Eberhard van der Laan, the municipality threw its might behind supporting talent hotspots outside the city centre in an effort to create healthy competition with the massive players downtown. The City of Amsterdam even decided to turn

up the creative factor in a former prison close to the Amstel Station, and commissioned the Leegstand Oplossers Amsterdam foundation – or LOLA – to transform the empty penitentiary into Lola Lik, a 9,000m2 cultural hub for creative and social entrepreneurship. Many of Lola’s professionals co-create solutions for, and together with, the residents of the refugee centre close by. Everyone’s ‘lik’ – or stroke of paint – is welcome in this talent hub, whether it’s a craft, a brilliant idea or a powerful support network for new Amsterdammers. Keeping true to its reputation for embracing different strokes of talent, the Dutch capital proves that whether you’re a newcomer or a budding artist, there will always be a place for your talent to thrive – even if you have to wait a couple of tables before success finds you.

Six years ago, lively, shiny Ana picked Amsterdam as her new home because of its thriving artistic scene and multiculturalism. After years of developing her blog (which touches on various subjects from the Amsterdam life to issues of sustainability), she recently decided to quit her day job as a hostess at a local proeflokal (genever tasting place) to go out on her own and give all her time and efforts to her creative projects. How did you start your blog? Amsterdive came out of my passion for Amsterdam. It’s a very dynamic place, it feels like a village yet it has everything a capital can offer. It felt like home right away, and I became fluent in Dutch thanks to my job at the proeflokal, where I also enjoyed doing a bit of storytelling about the city for visitors. I gained a unique point of view on the city: an insider-foreigner. Is Amsterdam a good place for artists? In Amsterdam I finally got out of the creative closet. For a long time the challenge was defining myself: am I a writer, an actress? But here I met a lot of people like me, who wear a number of different hats. It made me feel valued and validated in what I do. Amsterdam is a little land of possibilities: every day, creative people cross your path, willing to work together, to make things happen. It makes me feel very free.

WORKED AT: IN DE OLOFSPOORT TALENT: WRITER, ACTRESS FIND HER AT: AMSTERDIVE.COM

Discover your Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/neighbourhoods

nov & dec 2017

PART II 20 25 26 30 31 32 33

THE LIGHT FESTIVAL HOLIDAYS OUT OF THE BOX DUTCH MASTERS NEW YEAR WITH A BANG NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS

AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND

‘MANY PEOPLE DON’T REALISE THE WEALTH OF CULTURE THAT AMSTERDAM HOLDS – EVEN IN GASTRONOMY’ De L‘Europe’s head chef Alex Haupt is very fond of Dutch cheese.

Amsterdam Art Weekend returns to the city every November, offering art lovers the chance to delve into Amsterdam’s vibrant contemporary art scene and discover (or get their hands on) work by talented young artists. The event typically sees more than 30 galleries in the city organise special exhibitions, performances and lectures. Several major Amsterdam institutions get involved: this year, events are being organised at De Balie, the Oude Kerk, the Stedelijk Museum, EYE Filmmuseum and many more. Acclaimed art institutions such as the Rijksakademie and De Ateliers also throw open their doors to introduce visitors to the work being produced within. 23-26 NOVEMBER Various locations amsterdamart.com

THE CROSSING Carlos Motta’s The Crossing is a video portrait of 11 LGBT refugees who talk about their exodus from their oppressive homelands, and journey to the Netherlands. The subjects faced overt discrimination in Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Morocco, Syria and Pakistan, as well as intimidation and exclusion during their asylum-seeking processes in Dutch refugee camps. The exhibition also features a small selection of historic objects from the Rijksmuseum, Tropenmuseum and Amsterdam Museum.

COURTESY OF GALERIE AKINCI

©LEYLA GEDIZ, OBSCURA, 2017,

UNTIL 21 JANUARY 2018 Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl

amsterdam light festival

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Let there be light This year, the Amsterdam Light Festival is shaking things up, spreading its wings to new locations and adding brains to beauty. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

WATER COLOURS ROUTE 30 NOVEMBER-21 JANUARY 2018 MARINETERREIN EXHIBIT 14 DECEMBER-9 JANUARY 2018 amsterdamlightfestival.com

Amsterdam would never let its early winter nights cramp its style; instead, it has invited artists to illuminate its streets and canals with a series of 37 unique, spellbinding works of art. For this sixth edition, the Amsterdam Light Festival has a new artistic director, whose vision is taking the big, bright and beautiful event in a new direction. Formerly a curator at the Stedelijk Museum, Lennart Booij decided to let the event stretch its – and our – legs into a different neighbourhood: the Marineterrein. He explains that this new open-air light museum connects the

festival even more deeply to the history of the city. ‘The Marineterrein is the old enclave of the VOC (the Dutch East India Company), and it speaks both to the good side of Amsterdam’s past, such as trade and discovery, and to its bad side… like slavery.’ LIGHTS AND REFLECTION Introducing this kind of reflective ambivalence in an otherwise cheerful, holidayseason event is not such a surprising move on Booij’s part, who is well-known for his fondness for art that transcends beauty in order to bond with history and socio-cultural issues.

According to him, the 37 selected light artists were enthusiastic about the driving force behind this year’s theme, ‘Existential’. Of course, the installations on view as of 14 December will lose none of their poetry, such as Takeo Sugamata’s Schrodinger’s Cat, who is alive when you approach its enclosure from a certain angle, but disappears as you walk away; or Enlightened, the interactive art piece that shines various lights on the visitors’ faces, intensely changing their expressions, reminiscent of our childhood flashlight games by the campfire.

Highlights ICE-SKATING

ICE-SKATING

SINTERKLAAS

WINTERPARADE

The Jaap Eden complex, home to the Amstel Tigers hockey team, has an indoor rink, and a giant, 400m outdoor rink which opens from October to March. Their Saturday disco nights are the perfect excuse to finally don that sequinned costume. Reopening on 18 November, ICE* Amsterdam on Museumplein is a lot of fun for the whole family – and what a treat, with the Rijksmuseum in the background. Finally, from mid-December to early January, Leidseplein mutates into a kitsch winter wonderland with small rink and a Christmas market. jaapeden.nl, iceamsterdam.nl, kermisplaza.nl

SINTERKLAAS With more than a kilometre of floats and boats, Amsterdam hosts the largest Saint Nicholas parade in the world. The whitebearded legend traditionally makes his spectacular entrance into the city by sailing his steamboat down the Amstel before mooring amid great fanfare at the Maritime Museum, where he starts a day-long parade through the city with a pit stop at Dam Square (where a special musical programme kicks off for kids of all ages), until he reaches Leidseplein, where he delivers a special message to his smallest fans from the balcony of the Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam theatre. 19 NOVEMBER sintinamsterdam.nl

WINTERPARADE But they also introduce deep existential questions, says Booij: ‘What is light, what does it do to you as a person? We want people to have a sense of wonder but also ask themselves questions.’ THE THIN HUMAN LINE Another welcome addition to the programme this year is the invitation of Ai Weiwei’s participation. Especially for the festival, the eminent Chinese artist and activist is creating a continuous line around the city centre, Thinline, made out of a thread of glass (made especially by the Corning Glass Factory)

illuminated by a laser. More opportunities for debate are raised, not only about the history of the city, but also its contemporary issues: is Amsterdam open to visitors, to foreigners? What is the sense of borders? Even the popular ‘Water Colors’ route, which starts on 30 November and is best admired by boat directly from the canals, is ripe with existential questions. It closes with an arresting piece by Indonesian artist Bagus Pandega, who used 85 orange alarm lights in a grid to signal Gandhi’s message: ‘Be the change that you wish to see in the world.’

The festival promises to be as beautiful as ever this year, less structured to allow for exploration, but also more interactive, and with more layers of meaning. The early nights of the holidays seem like the perfect season for these musings, as Booij says it best: ‘In the world we live in, we are all just human beings depending on light.’

Resembling medieval feasts of centuries gone by, the Winterparade takes over the Zuiderkerk from 21 to 30 December with its 120-metre-long banquet-style table, upon which stroll a parade of performers. Dance, music, theatre, acrobatics, poetry – the minstrels are plenty and the mood festive. For many acts the language barrier should not impair the fun (the programme is 95% ‘no language’); only the risk of seeing your bread stomped on. Of course it wouldn’t be a feast without vats of mulled wine and beer, and a lavish abundance of foods. Chefs and waitresses also parade on the tables, along with a cohort of Candy Girls, and the night ends with disco dancing. It’s Christmas… but definitely not a silent night. 21-30 DECEMBER Zuiderkerk, Zuiderkerkhof 72 winterparade.nl

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Mirroring life

An exhibition of the work of André Kertész highlighting his exceptional creative acuity to reconfigure reality through unusual compositions.

Dutch Masters of the Hermitage

After being 350 years in Russia, the ‘home-coming’ of more than 60 Dutch Golden Age paintings is largely celebrated in this new exhibition. Hermitage, till May 27th 2018

Fashionable Africa

This exhibition shows the flourishing fashion scenes in several african cities, ranging from streetwear to couture. Tropenmuseum, till January 2018 © Carlos Motta

Foam, till January 10th 2018

Manthe © Chris Saunders

amsterdammusea.org

MUSEUM TIPS

Crossing lines?

The exhibition Crossing shows you the stories of different LGBTQI refugees who speak about their experiences. Stedelijk Museum, till January 21th 2018

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Born: 1966 in Schmitshof, Switzerland Talent: Storytelling The art of storytelling is not lost, especially not in Amsterdam, where we not only have Mezrab, an entire cultural centre dedicated to the traditional art form, but also a yearly Storytelling Festival. It is also the passion of Bastiaan de Zwitser (‘the Swiss’), who is one of the guest artists performing at the festival. Since graduating from University of the Arts Utrecht, Bastiaan has been regaling visitors with his tales and compelling voice at many venues and festivals all over the Amsterdam region. De Zwister’s repertoire includes enthralling myths and legends, from the Brothers Grimm’s fairy tales to Christmas stories and even local lore, such as The Flying Dutchman and The Weird Sisters. He gives city walks with Urban Adventures, and on wintery Friday evenings, he even delights thrillseekers with ghost-storytelling tours of the city of Utrecht. ‘I deserve my happiness as the father of three gods, the spouse to my one true love, and as a storyteller’, he says. De Zwitser explains his calling by family tradition: ‘The famous Baron Münchhausen, who was known for his tall tales, had a wife who ran away with his money – and with his only child. She ended up in the Netherlands, where she married my great-greatgreat-great-grandfather.’ bastiaan.com STORYTELLING FESTIVAL 1-5 NOVEMBER Various locations storytellingfestival.nl

1-3 DECEMBER Westergasfabriek, Polonceaukade 2 meesterlijk.nu

MASTERS OF LXRY Amsterdam’s sense of elegant sufficiency is put on hold for four heady days in December, when lavish art, interior design, gastronomy, jewellery, cars, watches and other covetable items are put on show at Europe’s biggest premium lifestyle fair. Masters of LXRY boasts exclusive product launches, fashion shows and countless opportunities to mingle with the haves, the have-yachts and the elusive one per cent. Be sure to take along your ostrich leatherbound autograph book – previous opening ceremonies have been graced by the likes of Elle Macpherson, Sarah Ferguson, Linda Evangelista and Brooke Shields.

BASTIAAN DE ZWITSER

Three whole days dedicated to the beauty and ingenuity of Dutch craft and design: product, fashion and food designers – masters and emerging artists alike – come together at the Westergasfabriek to show off their passion and skills, and sell their creations directly to the public. So close to the holidays, the extensive collection of ceramics (Unit 30, 1000 Graden), glass and crystal-ware (Marc Barreda, Baujke Schrift) and heirloom jewellery crafted by artisan goldsmiths is probably a great bet to do some early Christmas shopping; or simply to find a new cherished piece of furniture or indulge in unique fashion wares and accessories. The artisans demonstrate their work and process at the workshops, making every piece you bring home even more special.

8-11 DECEMBER Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 2-22 lxry.nl

SMALL SOULS A conclusion to the triptych of TGA director Ivo van Hove’s stage adaptations of Louis Couperus’ works, Small Souls is a tale of family dysfunction. Different generations live under the same roof, each character tormented by their own neuroses, desperately clinging to young son Addy, a doctor. But Addy isn’t too keen on sacrificing his sanity to the mad house’s needs, which exacerbates his marital woes. Van Hove is renowned worlwide for his masterly direction of literary adaptations, and Small Souls, which premiered in September, is critically acclaimed.

‘I deserve my happiness as a storyteller’

MEESTERLIJK

16 NOVEMBER (English surtitles) Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 tga.nl

PART II

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REMBRANDT VAN RIJN, FLORA, 1634 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

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HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE Until 27 May 2018

This extraordinary exhibition brings to the Hermitage Amsterdam 63 works by Dutch Masters from the museum‘s collection in St Petersburg. Treasures from the Golden Age are (temporarily) coming home, including paintings by Rembrandt, Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck, but this is also a chance to discover less well-known artists who caught the tsars‘ eyes, such as Willem Drost and Jacob Duck. €10 SURCHARGE with your I amsterdam City Card

DE NIEUWE KERK WE HAVE A DREAM Until 4 February 2018

An exhibition about Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi and Martin Luther King, We Have A Dream shares a wealth of objects as well as audio and visual materials which put into context the history of these three leading figures of the fight for human rights. €4.50 SURCHARGE with your I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • A free canal cruise and more 24hrs €57 / 48hrs €67 / 72hrs €77 / 96hrs €87

The I amsterdam City Card is available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see iamsterdam.com/citycard.

Get out of town

In Amsterdam

TSAR PETER HOUSE One of the oldest wooden houses in the Netherlands (1632), this modest labourer’s house is the one Tsar Peter the Great stayed in when he visited Zaandam in 1697. Travelling incognito, the Russian ruler was interested in learning about Dutch shipbuilding techniques in order to modernise his homeland. A beautiful dome was added to protect this small museum which features countless memories of the Tsar’s stay, as well as the visit of many other dignitaries who have written or carved their names in the windows and wooden walls. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

I AMSTERDAM MAPS & ROUTES DOWNLOAD THE FREE APP! The Amsterdam neighbourhoods app will help you expand your horizons and discover the neighbourhoods of Amsterdam. Pick from 11 neighbourhood itineraries, enhanced by our suggestions of noteworthy locations and hotspots along the way. You can download the I amsterdam Maps & Routes app from the App Store or the Google Play Store. iamsterdam.com

FRANS HALS MUSEUM THE ART OF LAUGHTER From 11 November

A little known and unexpected treat, the Dutch Golden Age artists also produced their fair share of humorous paintings. Naughty children, foolish dandies and lazy maids abound in this special, delightful retrospective on the more light-hearted side of such eminent painters as Frans Hals or Jan Steen. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

It’s a Wonderful Life Had enough of the same old Nutcracker, Christmas carols and gimmicky market stalls? Check out these holiday specials that celebrate the season out of the box.

text Lauren Comiteau

ome November and December, there’s no shortage of traditional holiday cheer in our fair city, from the light-bedazzled canals during the Amsterdam Light Festival to pop-up skating rinks, Christmas markets and the annual World Christmas Circus in the Royal Theatre Carré. But if you’re looking for something off the pine-laden path – and even off the Judeo-Christian calendar – then head to the points below. (Note: Even agnostics can pray for snow.)

who needs angels swinging in rhythm to Mariah Carey to celebrate? Baby goats? Check. Stinky hay? Check. Homemade apple pie and mulled wine? OK, a modern addition, but check! Grab the kids by the horns and head to this working farm for a manger moment they’re sure to remember.

some traditional Scottish ceilidh dancing, led by Sara Reith and the AmsterDram Ceilidh Band, or warm yourself by the bonfire with a wee dram of Scottish whisky in hand. €7 gains you admission to the artsy Broedplaats LELY in Lelylaan for this original mid-winter Yule celebration.

Goatfarm Ridammerhoeve Nieuwe Meerlaan 4, Amstelveen geitenboerderij.nl (Note: closed 25-26 December)

21 DECEMBER MixTree, Broedplaats LELY, Schipluidenlaan 12 urbanresort.nl/lely

CANDLELIGHT CONCERT: KWEKSILBER & FRIENDS Amsterdam clarinettist and saxophonist David Kweksilber puts together this musical night during Hanukkah, giving new meaning to the Jewish Festival of Lights. Not just eight candles, but hundreds will be burning bright in the architectural and acoustical splendour of the Portuguese Synagogue. A religious experience indeed.

COMEDY CHRISTMAS SPECIAL If comic relief is a requisite of your holiday celebrations (family, anyone?), head to the Comedy Café Amsterdam for this English-language comedy extravaganza. Held on Christmas Day, it offers the perfect Scrooge escape.

13 DECEMBER Portuguese Synagogue, Mr. Visserplein 3 jck.nl

WINTER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION Self-described bard Ken Parsons hosts this homage to the shortest day of the year, featuring music by his Celtic folk band Monty Pagan, storytelling, poetry, comedy and even pumpkin soup and Scottish Stovies, that meat-and-potato mainstay. Line up for

GOATFARM RIDAMMERHOEVE Although sadly the goat farm in the Amsterdamse Bos did away with its beloved live nativity performance for the holidays,

25 DECEMBER Comedy Café Amsterdam, IJdok 89 comedycafe.nl

NORDIC CHRISTMAS MARKET The Danish, Norwegian and Finnish churches join forces for their 5th annual Christmas market featuring all things Scandinavian. Held in the Muiderkerk, look for Norwegian sweaters and blankets, Danish-designed wood and paper Christmas decorations, and candleholders and items from Lapland design houses Marimekko and Iittala. Smørrebrød, herring, freshbaked desserts and warm drinks abound. For Scandinavian Christmas services, you’ll have to head to Rotterdam to the churches themselves, which the proceeds from this market benefit. 1-2 DECEMBER Muiderkerk, Linnaeusstraat 37 facebook.com/SoemandskirkenRotterdam

dutch masters

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

From Russia with Love As the Dutch Masters come home, the Hermitage celebrates its new ‘Rembrandtplein’ that was three centuries in the making.

WILLEM CLAESZ. HEDA, BREAKFAST WITH A CRAB, 1648 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

text Lauren Comiteau

R DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE UNTIL 27 MAY 2018 Hermitage Museum, Amstel 51 hermitage.nl

embrandt’s ‘Portrait of an Old Man in Red’ was purchased by art-hungry Russian Empress Catherine the Great in 1768, at a time when her agents were scouring the continent for art from the Lowlands. Gaining pride of place in her newly-founded Hermitage Museum, the paintings have remained there ever since. Now, for the first time in 250 years, they have returned home for the Hermitage Amsterdam’s exhibition Dutch Masters from the Hermitage: Treasures of the Tsars. ‘It’s a dream exhibition,’ says Irina Sokolova, head of the Dutch Art department at St Petersburg’s State Hermitage Museum, which also contributed five of

its other Rembrandts to the exhibition. ‘Never before have six Rembrandt paintings been shared, not only in the Netherlands, but anywhere in world.’ THE TSARS‘ TREASURES With 1,500 works by Dutch Masters, the State Hermitage’s collection of Golden Age paintings is the largest outside of the Netherlands. Combing that collection for its finest works, the museum’s curators loaned most of the 63 exhibited artworks to their Dutch outpost, including paintings by Rembrandt students Ferdinand Bol, Gerard Dou and Govert Flinck, but also works by Dutch Masters Jacob van Ruisdael and Jan Steen.

don’t miss these

The love affair between the imperial court and Dutch painters goes back to the first half of the 18th century. Peter the Great, one of the country’s earliest collectors, took home not only Amsterdam’s Canal Belt blueprint for St Petersburg, but also the country’s first Rembrandt, ‘David and Jonathan’, which he bought in 1716 for the equivalent of about €40. ‘The love of the tsars for Dutch art, especially the way it portrayed the qualities of humanity, is the main storyline of this exhibition,’ says Martijn van Schieveen of the Hermitage Amsterdam. ‘There’s nothing religious or royal about it. It’s just about humans. Plus, in a country where it’s minus 20 for three-quarters of the year and everybody sits inside, the home scenes by Dutch painters were also very much liked.’ HOMECOMING Those beloved Golden Age interiors have been recreated in the exhibition space, where hand-painted ‘tile’ floors were inspired by Pieter Janssens Elinga’s ‘Room in a Dutch House’, and whose rich blue and gold leather wallpaper is what would have been hanging in a 17th-century Dutch home. Audio tours narrated by Amsterdam legends – including historian Geert Mak and art heir and historian Jan Six – keep the collection Amsterdamgrounded, although Russian-made porcelain vases featuring reproductions of Golden Age paintings, such as Paulus Potter’s ‘Punishment of a Hunter’, highlight the influence these works have had on centuries of Russian painters. That these paintings have returned to their birthplace – many by KLM cargo – also reverses a long-standing Hermitage practice not to compete with Dutch museums. In a sign of changing times, the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam Museum and the Mauritshuis in The Hague have all loaned paintings to the exhibition, including Thomas de Keyser’s ‘Portrait of Loef Vredericx’, which the Mauritshuis purchased from a cash-strapped Soviet regime during the Great Depression. Now hanging once again on an Amsterdam wall, the painting, like most on display, has come full circle. ‘But only for a little while,’ says Van Schieveen.

Every year, the Rijksmuseum organises an exhibition that touches on current social or political issues. This year, photographer Anoek Steketee was invited to present her series of 36 photographs that document and portray stateless people. It is estimated by the UN’s refugee organisation, UNHCR, that there are about 10 million of these non-citizens in the world: people who have no passport, no official nationality, and as a consequence, no rights. More than a third of these individuals living in administrative limbo are children – who will grow up without being able to travel, marry, or even access medical care.

UNTIL 7 JANUARY 2018 Rijksmuseum, Museumstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl

TANGO TRAIN The week-long yearly bash for tango aficionados is chock-full of salons and parties, spread over nine different locations, from contemporary music haven Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ to Amsterdam’s hottest tango clubs like Tango Terras or La Bruja. From early matinees to milongas that go well into the wee hours of the night, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to practice your ochos, or admire the pros’ skills – even on New Year.

CHRISTIAN BOLTANSKI Contemporary artist Boltanski’s vision never strikes meekly. He is most well-known for ‘No Man’s Land’, his testament to the fate of mankind that took the shape of a mountain of worn clothes accompanied by the din of a thousand beating hearts. The monumental installation that he created at the Oude Kerk is another punch to the gut: 50 black graves of varying size rise from the existing tombstones of Amsterdam’s oldest church, interspersed with running figures who ask approaching visitors ominous questions: ‘Are you lonely?’, ‘Where do you feel at home?’. In his own words, ‘A church, like Oude Kerk, is a place to think. You spend time here, then you go back to the city life, with cars and shops and into your life.’ Boltanski will be present at the exhibition during Amsterdam Art Weekend (23-26 November).

REMBRANDT VAN RIJN (1606-1669), PORTRAIT OF AN OLD MAN IN RED, C. 1652/54 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

STATELESS

26 DECEMBER-1 JANUARY 2018 Various locations tangotrain.com

FROM 24 NOVEMBER Oude Kerk, Oudekerksplein 23 oudekerk.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

advertorial

Art on the water Every winter, Amsterdam Light Festival brightens up the city with dozens of light art installations displayed in the historical canal ring. text Regina Falanggi

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FLOATING ART COLLECTION The canals are beautiful as they are, but a floating art collection does give them that extra oomph. Especially for Amsterdam Light Festival, national and international artists have created unique works of light to illuminate the dark winter nights. There is no better way to experience it than straight from the water, and the Water Colors Cruise brings you as close as you can get. Step

LIGHT UP YOUR NIGHT As founding partner of Amsterdam Light Festival, we ensure that your experience will light up your night; especially if you start with a nice warm drink on our festively decorated pier. Once on board, our audio guide introduces all the masterpieces that glide into view. The cruise departs from the Canal Tours Amsterdam point opposite Central Station – about as central as it gets. During the festival period, from 30 November to 21 January 2018, our

boats depart several times per hour between 16:30 and 21:30. ENJOY AT A DISCOUNT Tickets for this 75-minute cruise are €22.50 for adults and €14 for children aged 4-12. Book your tickets online and reserve your spot at stromma.nl, because the best rates come with planning ahead. Use promocode amag2017 for a €3 discount on any adult ticket.

on board one of our cosy, heated vessels to enjoy the magical connection between light and water the most comfortable way.

anal Tours Amsterdam offers you the best way to enjoy this spellbinding spectacle: from the water. Our Water Colors Cruise takes you straight to the heart of it all. Twinkling lights, lovely city!

World Christmas Circus

Clown around for the holidays text Lily Heaton

Museumnacht Culture and cocktails text Lily Heaton

s Amsterdam transitions from ‘summer weather’ (quotes intended) to winter season, festivities move from outside to indoors. What better way to escape the chilly temperatures than by exploring innovative art, historic collections and bumping beats at some of the cities most beloved cultural venues? For the last 17 years, the first Saturday of November marks Museumnacht (Museum Night), a unique evening where museums around the city keep their doors open into the wee hours, offering an electric programme of art and entertainment. It’s no wonder the annual event has sold out for more than a decade – visitors can discover a wild range of curiosities, live music, performances, parties and of course, art exhibitions on display at more than 50 locations. Try stepping back in time to experience a lavish Willet-Holthuysen canal house the way its historical, high-society residents once did… Surrounded by flickering candlelight and mirrored reflections, paired with pop-up concerts by the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra.

Modern dance meets innovative imagery at Huis Marseille, while ARCAM features a pop-culture dance party fuelled by €2 shots. Browse an avant-garde photo exhibition or listen to Subbacultcha DJs bubble beats over the dance floor at FOAM. Throw back to the ’80s with hip-hop beats while sipping themed cocktails under the colourful, bold lines of Keith Harring at the Stedelijk. Get nerdy on the East Side and stare into space at the ARTIS-Planetarium, or take a trip through the greenhouse at Hortus Botanicus for a mind-bending lesson about medicinal herbs, plants and mushrooms. Science lovers can head over to NEMO where they’ll get to create an intergalactic outfit of their own and perfect their moonwalk. Ticket holders can venture throughout the city on a bicycle or use free public transport throughout the evening. An added bonus? Your ticket will also be valid at one additional museum visit any time throughout the year. 4 NOVEMBER Various locations museumnacht.amsterdam

to 7 January. As always, visitors can enjoy a spectacle of colourful entertainment while celebrating the cheerful holiday season. Expect goofy entertainers clowning around in classic and contemporary styles, led by the star of the show, famed clown Houschma-Housch. The circus presents international talents performing breathtaking athletic tricks including flying trapeze acts, ventriloquists, acrobatic performances, jugglers on unicycles and a stunning house merry-goround built to pay homage to Oscar Carre’s original set. As one of the most popular holiday events in the Netherlands, more than 50,000 visitors are expected to attend the festivities during the circus’ twice-daily performances over an 18-day run. Whether you’re looking for a unique evening experience or a family night out, the World Christmas Circus is an award-winning spectacle that’s sure to dazzle audiences of all ages. 21 DECEMBER-7 JANUARY 2018 Royal Theatre Carré, Amstel 115 carre.nl

dazzling holiday tradition returns when the World Christmas Circus (Wereldkerstcircus) takes the stage at Amsterdam’s historical Royal Theater Carré. The beloved holiday performance actually has ties to the theatre’s original foundation, when German circus director and entrepreneur Oscar Carré first opened the venue back in 1887. Funnily enough, his goal at the time was to find a home for his winter circus show, famous for performances of trained horses. Now, 130 years later, Carré is renown for hosting a range of entertainment, from concerts to musicals and cabaret. Having maintained its popularity for more than a century, the World Christmas Circus returns this winter with another exciting round of this family-friendly event hosted in the stunning Carré theatre along the banks of the Amstel River. This year, the 33rd edition brings an international troupe from around the globe to amuse audiences with live performances taking place from 21 December

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

new year’s eve

New Year with a bang Ring in the new year with one of Amsterdam’s spectacular celebrations text Rhys Elliott

n New Year’s Eve, the city is brimming with parties galore, vistas aglow with some truly epic fireworks; and there’s only one word to describe the atmosphere: gezellig! So whether you’re looking for a high-octane dance festival, an impromptu street party or a more family-oriented celebration to welcome 2018, Amsterdam’s got you covered. Many of the city’s major clubs and bars, and even entire neighbourhoods, throw their own celebrations: in the centre, the Nieuwmarkt, Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein are especially popular spots, but they’re also intensely crowded. However, less populated and more spontaneous gatherings pop up left, right and centre of the city – just like the fireworks. PARTY LIKE IT’S 2018 At the top of every party fiend’s agenda is the Awakenings NYE Special at the

Westerfabriek’s Gashouder, which brings the biggest international and Dutch DJs to the stage. The same goes for TIKTAK New Year’s Eve at the bouncing AFAS, hosting a line-up of the hottest acts in house, electro, hip-hop and more. The Ziggo Dome, the biggest arena in town, is hosting a new edition of the mega Freaqshow dance event by Q-dance. Note that tickets to these parties can sell out fast. It’s not just about world-class EDM DJs and huge crowd: the Out & NYX event at Club NYX (one of the city’s go-to LGBT clubs) is always packed with fun, funky and – of course – fabulous acts, and everyone’s welcome. There’s also Paradiso’s Stardust Bal Masqué NYE Party, an eccentric celebration that’s inspired by ’50s Vegas nightclub vibes. Expect swinging live bands, burlesque acts, a roulette table, sleazy rockabilly boppers and London’s legendary Black Elvis. But remember: no mask, no entry!

NIGHT ON FIRE As for the famous official Amsterdam firework celebrations, they will light up the night and gorgeously reflect off the water around the Oosterdok – all to the backdrop of the striking VOC Ship The Amsterdam and the National Maritime Museum. The sky above the Amstel is also traditionally ablaze, and the views from the Skinny Bridge (Magere Brug) are nothing short of spectacular. If you’re out and about with young ones, making it all the way to midnight can be tricky. Fortunately, the festivities kick off early. You’re permitted to set off fireworks from 18:00 on New Year’s Eve, so neighbourhoods throughout the city traditionally make use of public squares and parks to put on an early show that’s very family friendly.

THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

Australian chef-prodigy Alex Haupt (26), came to Amsterdam for love. Instead he found a place in one of the city’s best kitchens. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘People don’t realise the wealth of culture that Amsterdam holds’ 1. HOW DID YOU END UP IN AMSTERDAM? It was more or less an accident. My first stop from Sydney was London, and then I moved to the Netherlands for a girl. She is no longer in my life, but I found many great work opportunities, so I stayed. After eight months of working at Ron Gastrobar as pre-opening head chef, I moved to De L’Europe, where I started out as a sous-chef. After a few weeks I got offered the head chef position. 2. WHAT IS YOUR SPECIALTY? I’m pretty easy, I’ll cook anything. My main goal is to make sure the restaurant is consistent, and to fill it with guests; and I think I’ve been pretty successful at both in the past two years. When you’re in a commercial kitchen, it’s about more than cooking: you have a lot to organise, and the team you put together, the way you motivate them, is very important.

3. HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE AMSTERDAM CULINARY SCENE? I see growth and opportunity. It’s a small city that’s blossoming, especially food-wise. I see a lot of young people opening their own restaurants, doing whatever they want, and while it’s nowhere near where it could be, it’s definitely heading to a great place. I’m approaching it with curiosity, and running with it.

nicely balanced and not too hectic.

4. WHAT ARE SOME OF THESE WORTHY NEW PLACES? BAK on the harbour, Breda in the centre, and the guys at Daalder in the Jordaan are all doing great things.

7. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF DUTCH FOOD PRODUCTS? The quality is very consistent thanks to the greenhouse culture – an admirable adaptation to the country’s climate. There are some very strong aspects to the local food production: you have to dig deep to find the good stuff, but there are some amazing Dutch cheeses, some of which are world-renowned. They also make some really good beef and lamb, which unfortunately are mostly geared towards exports.

5. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HANG-OUT? I love Glouglou in De Pijp. They have a really good wine list, that remains very accessible price-wise. But it’s especially the atmosphere that I enjoy, it’s

6. WHAT DO YOU NOT LIKE ABOUT AMSTERDAM? The weather! It’s pretty ridiculous overall, but it also makes our job a bit of a logistical puzzle. As soon as there’s a ray of sunshine, everybody wants to sit outside on the terrace. Since it can rain and shine several times per day… it’d be easier if it was more stable!

8. WHERE DO YOU SHOP FOR THE GOOD STUFF? I like the market on Maasstraat; it’s like a small village with great local stalls such as a butcher and a fishmonger. And the Albert Cuypmarkt in De Pijp also has nice fruits from France. 9. WHAT DO YOU DO FOR FUN? On Sundays my girlfriend and I often go to Pathé Tuschinski, the beautiful Art Deco cinema by Rembrandtplein. There’s a theatre by our house (the Rialto), but it doesn’t serve popcorn, and that’s just crazy. 10. OVERALL, IS AMSTERDAM HOME TO YOU? For now, yes… we’ll see where life takes me. But I love Amsterdam. I feel like it’s very underestimated, people don’t see its incredible potential. Many think it’s all about the coffeeshops, and don’t realise the wealth of culture that it holds – even in gastronomy.

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time.

Black Films Matter The fourth edition of Da Bounce Urban Film Festival text Bregtje Schudel

1-5 NOVEMBER Da Bounce Urban Film Festival. Pathé Arena, ArenA Boulevard 600 & Bijlmerparktheater, Anton de Komplein 240 dbuff.nl

fter a stellar year with big Oscar contenders (and winners) like Fences, Hidden Figures, 13, Loving and – of course – Moonlight, you would think the secret is out: black films are anything but a niche market. You would, however, be thinking wrong. Only a fraction of black movies is finding its way into Dutch cinemas. ‘One of the biggest misconceptions among Dutch distributors is that there’s no market for this kind of movie, or if there is, it’s ‘only’ a black market’, says Reguillo Wijngaarde, director of the Da Bounce Urban Film Festival. ‘If it doesn’t have Denzel Washington, Will Smith, Halle Berry or Samuel L. Jackson, it doesn’t sell.’ An incorrect assumption, contends Wijngaarde. ‘Take a recent movie like Girls Trip with Queen Latifah and Jada Pinkett Smith. The Dutch distributor never planned for a theatrical release, until it came

out in the US and smashed the box office. The Dutch premiere was sold out in a day and a half!’ This under-representation of black cinema makes the annual Da Bounce Urban Film Festival not only something to look out for, but also somewhat of a necessity. That a term like ‘urban film’ remains a bit vague, Wijngaarde will be the first to admit. ‘In the music scene, the term ‘urban’ originated from the hip-hop scene. Urban film is much broader. When a film has a black director, is being led by black actors or is about black culture, we categorise it as ‘urban’.’ The Da Bounce Urban Film Festival showcases urban cinema at its most versatile, from a special screening of Tyler Perry’s Boo 2! A Madea Halloween, strong indies like Gook to small documentaries such as the one about Oscar Micheaux, the first successful African-American director in Hollywood.

Diversity is key, with recurring topics like LGBTQ, racism and women’s emancipation, and with partnerships with Movies that Matter, New Urban Collective, and the John Adams Institute, among others. This fourth edition will host a special photo exhibition called Diversity in the Picture (in collaboration with FOAM), and a screening of the documentary Olympic Pride, American Prejudice, about the other 17 African-American athletes who participated in the 1936 Berlin Olympics besides Jesse Owens, followed by a talk with Dutch black Olympic athletes. The festival is not all talk. ‘We’re looking into distributing our own movies,’ says Wijngaarde. ‘But we’re also asking the film industry to commit to getting more diversity into Dutch cinemas. This way we’ll actually be working on diversity, instead of only talking about it and looking at it.’

highlight Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

IDFA turns 30!

his 30th edition of the world’s largest documentary film festival will be a celebration… and a goodbye. Fifteen renowned documentary filmmakers (and filmmaking couples) with a special connection to IDFA will be honouring the festival and its director and co-founder Ally Derks (who will be leaving the festival), with a selection of their favourite non-fiction films. Of course, IDFA will not only be looking back. One of the festivals special guests, Frederick Wiseman, will also be accompanied by his latest documentary, Ex Libris: New York Public Library, an exhaustive and uplifting look inside one of America’s oldest institutions. The festival hosts many special programmes, from music documentaries to a youth section or a programme around shifting perspectives. Ghost Hunting falls squarely into the last category, where director Raed Andoni asked former Palestinian inmates of an Israeli interrogation centre to re-enact their experiences on film. But is Andoni’s method unnecessarily cruel, or cathartic? The latter is definitely the case in The Work, where three outsiders participate in a four-day group therapy retreat with actual prisoners from the Folsom State Prison. They may have joined out of curiosity, but when it’s about battling your demons, every man is the same. Battling your demons could very well have been a separate theme programme this edition. Never more so than with The Family (Druzina), a brutally honest portrait of Slovenian youth Matej, who, after a complicated childhood, is now starting a family of his own (we get a front-row seat for the birth of Matej’s daughter Nia). But can he shake off his past? Professional cyclist David Millar also hopes for a fresh start in Time Trial, after he was caught using dope in 2004. Was 2014 his year before he stripped off his cycling shorts forever...? 15-26 NOVEMBER IDFA Various locations idfa.nl

nightlife essentials AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

SUPER-SONIC JAZZ FESTIVAL

Brighten up your winter by exploring the latest edition of the Amsterdam Light Festival. From 17:00 to 23:00 each night, light art will bring new colour, technological innovation and artistic flair to iconic spots throughout the city centre – all on or beside the canals. To make the most of these works, take to the water for a dedicated festival cruise. From 14 December, a special route also opens up in the Marineterrein, just east of Central Station. Here you‘ll find 20 artworks best explored on foot. 30 NOVEMBER-21 JANUARY Various locations amsterdamlightfestival.com

This sonically super festival features a line-up of musicians who combine jazz with musical styles that don‘t traditionally gel with the genre, including electronic, classical, hiphop and traditional African music – to name a few. Needless to say, if you‘re into jazz, this is the festival for you. If you‘re not, you‘ll still find something to bop along to. 9-19 NOVEMBER Various locations facebook.com/SuperSonicJazz

AWAKENINGS NYE SPECIAL Awakenings enters the new year with slightly more mellow sounds than usual. Dekmantel’s minimalist techno specialist Makam opens with a three-hour set, followed by the immensely popular slick US techno producer Maceo Plex who kicks off at midnight. German duo Pan-Pot are expected to keep it mellow as well, before Belgian’s biggest current techno star Amelie Lens is set to close. Check her recent track ‘Linger On’ and you’ll understand why she was asked to fill the glorious Gashouder with her music: it’s a perfect fit. 31 DECEMBER Westergasfabriek awakenings.com

WAR & PEACE An evening for peace, this unique concert includes a world premiere by Iraqi composer Hamid al Basri and his son Raad Khalaf. ‘The Golden Bird’ songs speak of love and peace, and include solo performances by Basri’s daughter Baidar Al Basri, as well as authentic Iraqi and Syrian instruments. This will be followed by acclaimed Welsh composer Sir Karl Jenkins’ ‘The Armed Man’, incorporating extracts from Christian mass, the Islamic call to prayer, the Bible and the Indian Mahabharata. 5 NOVEMBER Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ muziekgebouw.nl

JAMES BLUNT

Love him or hate him, James Blunt was undeniably one of the most distinctive British singers of the ‘00s, consistently selling out arenas and appealing to the masses. And although this Afterlove Tour is promoting his newest release, MUSEUMNACHT you can still expect to hear Each November, more than massive hits such as ‘You’re 50 museums in Amsterdam Beautiful‘, ‘Goodbye My Lovopen their doors from 19:00 er’ and ‘Stay the Night’. to 02:00. Look out for spe6 NOVEMBER cial events including workAFAS Live shops, concerts, exclusive afaslive.nl tours, exhibitions and performances, as well as tasty VALHALLA FESTIVAL food and drinks to help One of the most versatile winkeep your energy levels ter festivals line-up wise (with up. Soak up the culture, try various genres from hip-hop something new, and be sure to techno), this festival of the to buy tickets (which also in- bizarre will indulge your taste clude public transportation) in crazy costumes, fairy-tale atin advance. mosphere and theatrical flair. 4 NOVEMBER 23 DECEMBER Various locations RAI Amsterdam museumnacht.amsterdam valhallafestival.nl

nov & dec 2017

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ’I BELIEVE THAT AIRPORTS SHOULD DO MORE THAN THEIR UTMOST TO TAKE CARE OF THEIR RESPONSIBILITY TOWARDS THE ENVIRONMENT.’ Schiphol CEO Jos Nijhuis makes sure the airport adheres to Amsterdam’s green spirit

36 43 44 46 48 51

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: SCHIPHOL COLUMN EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT‘S IN STORE

TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL Because Amsterdam Noord can’t stop getting cooler by the day, it’s now got a skate-café, the new favourite of all the boys and girls in the know. But its indoor skating rink (that’s especially practical on long winter days for the real skateboard aficionados out there) is not the only reason why crowds of all creeds and ages are flocking to this new hotspot of the Hamerkwartier. It’s also got atmosphere, with its people-pleasing music, myriad of hanging plants and Barbie-pink chairs. What’s more, it serves great food that won’t cost you the leg you need to do those kickflips. There’s a little something for everyone on the menu, from tacos and curries to chicken noodle soup and peking duck pancakes. The sweet note? It may be known to everyone simply as ‘Skatecafé’, but owners Colin and Jordy named the place after their mums, because, ‘Our lovely mothers have helped us so much’. Bring your board or just an appetite; you’ll leave in a great mood either way. Skatecafé Karin & Yvonne Gedempt Hamerkanaal 42 skatecafe.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

Neighbourhood watch

SCHIPHOL AIRPORT

PANORAMA TERRACE This plane spotterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise is located on the third floor of the airport, accessible via an elevator between Departure Lounges 1 and 2. The wide terrace (also shared by two restaurants) grants visitors a breathtaking view of the aircrafts taking off in the distance or parking at the gates right below â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with telescopes for those who need to see every detail. It also sports a real KLM Fokker 100 which has been outfitted for fun and exploration: you can see the pilot cabin and the baggage hold, and play captain or passenger. Before security, entrance between Departure Lounges 1 and 2

Gourmet seafood, lingerie shops and iconic paintings fresh out of the Rijksmuseum: Schiphol airport has grown into a city that caters to travellers’ needs. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock

The sky is the limit

egend has it that Schiphol got its name from a former fortification that stood where the airport is now located, which was battered by so many unforgiving winds that sailors called it ‘Ships’ Hell’. Today the airport still sees its unfair share of weather tantrums year-round, but it does sit a pretty third on the podium of European hubs, behind London Heathrow and Paris-Charles de Gaulle. In Schiphol’s first days, in 1916, it wasn’t much more than a couple of military barracks on a field. Exactly 100 years later, almost 64 million passengers passed through what has become a 2,787-hectare landmark that is continuously growing: 2016 saw a 9% increase in traffic from the previous year. That popularity, also evidenced by Schiphol’s slew of ‘best airport’ awards, is certainly due in part to its extensive aviation network, with 322 direct worldwide destinations. It is also the result of a vision to create not just a global transportation hub, but a community. Nothing feels more like a sample of human life than an airport: lonely travellers on their smartphones cross paths with embracing families through halls drowned in the din of rolling suitcases. Schiphol, better than many airports, is keenly aware

of that teeming humanity, and what it can do to enhance the quality of its air travel. AIRPORT CITY Schiphol is extremely streamlined: ‘It’s so practical that all the terminals are in the same building, there’s no need to run or get on a shuttle to catch your connections,’ says Manon Leeuwerink, a flight attendant with KLM – the Netherlands’ royal airline that calls Schiphol home. The 90 gates are distributed along three ‘lounges’, all connected via Schiphol Plaza, which is also a significant bus and rail transportation centre. ‘It’s perfect, we can easily get to the rest of the country and beyond,’ adds Leeuwerink. It is also recognised worldwide as being a leader in sustainability efforts: ‘I believe that airports should do more than their utmost to take care of their responsibility towards the environment,’ said CEO Jos Nijhuis to AMS Magazine last year. He added that ‘a part of sustainability is also sustainable employment, ensuring that we treat people fairly, and that all staff at the airport treat visitors fairly. Hospitality and passenger experience are key for us.’ That focus on hospitality has transformed the airport into a little city unto itself. Not only does it offer a

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

2There are even trees growing indoors, whose leaves fall in autumn’ wide range of services, it’s also gone above and beyond functionality to add real life to the mix. For families, for example, there are numerous play areas where children can stretch their legs to their heart’s delight. The entire airport was designed with huge windows to allow for plenty of natural light, and so that guests can gape at the world of aviation outside. There are even trees growing indoors, whose leaves fall in autumn – probably a bit of a pain for the cleaning crew, but such a nice touch for those who have just spent 15 hours in a metal box soaring through the air. For its more culturally-inclined customers, the airport boasts libraries, and annexes to the Rijksmuseum and NEMO Science Museum. ‘Our goal is to make it feel like a personal airport’, explain Carla Laurs and Judith Van Deelen, respectively Retail Business Manager and Retail Developer of the airport. ‘We want to serve every passenger, make them feel like they can do anything they want with their wait time.’

MAC You’ve just come out of an 18hour flight, and you don’t look quite as fresh-faced as when you stepped into the plane yesterday? Fear not: MAC Cosmetics has a pop-up shop in Lounge 2, where you can not only buy beauty supplies but also get a complete makeover by their expert team. After security: Top Level of Lounge 2

PERSONAL AIRPORT Each of the three lounges has its own personality, like little neighbourhoods. ‘We designed them with different looks, feels and services to fit their target users,’ say Laurs and Van Deelen. While fast-turnaround Lounge 1 offers plenty of opportunities for quick refuelling pit-stops, Lounge 2 caters to its more international visitors – and their longer connection times – with an incredible diversity in its selection of shopping, dining and entertainment experiences. However, ‘you will find the same high level of service and product quality throughout,’ boasts Laurs. Seven different worlds were created to indulge every passenger’s needs, from Modern Dutch World to Care & Wellness, and even a Luxury World area with high-end boutiques. According

LEON The healthy fast-food chain has an outpost in Schiphol Plaza, which is so popular that ‘fast’ may sometimes be a bit of a stretch; but their Moroccan meatballs lathered in spicy tomato sauce and served on a bed of brown rice and fresh slaw, their avocado-halloumi burger or their chicken-chorizo club wrap are all well worth the wait. Vegan and dairy- or gluten-free options abound, as do healthy breakfast meals. Before security: Schiphol Plaza After security: Lounge 1 and Top Level of Lounge

YOTELAIR

G-STAR RAW

Need to recharge between two flights? Yotelair rents small but smart cabins by the hour, with super-comfy beds and amenities such as monsoon showers and flat-screen TVs. Need a snack after your nap? They serve free coffee or tea, but will also bring you pizza, soda and ice cream for a measly €9. They even offer workstations and shower cabins if you need a quiet haven but don’t have time for a snooze.

This Amsterdam-born denim brand has grown into a global fashion giant, which this season has collaborated with Pharrell Williams to design a superb collection of, well, ‘happy’ prints. Find it, and more, at their Schiphol boutique, which is worth an indulgent shopping detour even if you’re not simply looking for a new outfit after spilling your in-flight chicken curry on your travel sweats. The best part? They’re open until 22:00.

After security: Top Level of Lounge 2

Before security: Schiphol Plaza 1

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

‘The play area is so much fun that my kids won’t leave to get on our flight!’ Shalina Bhaboeti International traveller

GASSAN The iconic purveyor of diamonds has 13 shops peppered throughout the airport, so that you won’t be caught unprepared if you suddenly decided to propose at 30,000 feet. They also carry large collections of their signature jewellery, and of course their own and many other brands of watches, with dedicated Cartier, Bvlgari or Swatch boutiques. They’ll happily replace your dead batteries or clean your treasured baubles, too. Before security: Schiphol Plaza After security: 12 shops throughout Lounges 1, 2 and 3

LUXURY WORLD Newly redesigned Lounge 2 has seven different worlds to make every traveller’s wait time more enjoyable: Modern Dutch World, Fashion & Lifestyle World, See Buy Fly World, Travel & Culture World, Care & Wellness World, Family World, and Luxury World – a haven of high-end boutiques such as Hermès, Gucci, Bvlgari and Swarovski. They even have an exclusive liquor shop, Exquisite, which carries rare bottles. After security: Lounge 2

XPRESSPA Those wonky airplane seats can wreak havoc on the best of spines, but XpresSpa flies to the rescue with quick 15-minute chair massages for the harried traveller, or 30-minutelong deep-tissue massages for those who have plenty of time before their connecting flight. They also offer a wide range of beauty treatments, from manicures to facials (a respite for those poor pores that only breathed canned air for hours on end). After security: Lounge 2 by D-Pier, Lounge 3 and Top Level Lounge 2

to Laurs and Van Deelen, ‘It’s all about the passengers’ experience, from the architecture to the level of service and the huge range of products. We want a real browsing atmosphere: they can try, taste, and get information about everything.’

MANON LEEUWERINK, 34 Flight attendant with KLM

‘Schiphol has so many services and facilities, from supermarkets to fashion shops, it’s so practical. And the trains and buses are right there, it’s perfect to easily get to the rest of the country – and beyond.’

CARLA LAURS-HOOGVORST & JUDITH VAN DEELEN

Retail Business Manager and Retail Developer at Schiphol

‘Our goal is to make Schiphol feel like a personal airport.’

MUSEUMS In the spirit of making Schiphol its own little city, the airport is also home to annexes of some of Amsterdam’s most beloved cultural institutions. You can enjoy a snack at Frames Café, which presents special exhibitions from the Stedelijk Museum. NEMO Science Museum also has an outpost where kids and grown-ups alike can learn and play. And the Rijksmuseum has gone all out and created a gorgeously designed minimuseum on Holland Boulevard, where you can admire temporary exhibitions of Golden Age masterpieces. Frames: Top Level Lounge 2 NEMO: Holland Boulevard Rijksmuseum: Holland Boulevard

DUTCH DESIGN The ingenuity of the airport’s eagerness to please travellers is even more evident in the details. Every area’s seating has been thoroughly thought out, from the comfortable reclining chairs of the rest areas (where soothing colours and pleasing materials like dark wood are key to the quiet atmosphere), to the circular benches of Lounge 2’s central meeting point, which face each other instead of being distributed in the usual impersonal rows. ‘It fosters interaction, a sense of community,’ says a proud Van Deelen. Above that communal area hangs a beautiful clock created by Dutch designer Maarten Baas, with a looped video of a man painting then erasing the minute hand as time goes by. It’s poetic, and yet funny all at once: ‘We like to tell children that there really is a man up there – that’s why we installed a door at the back of the clock,’ laughs Laurs. The

works of Dutch artists and designers are subtly peppered throughout, like the tiny white cows walking sideways along the hallway walls, or the vast panels decorated in blue Delft porcelain, or the traditional Dutch tapestries. Great attention was paid to the furniture: some of Schiphol’s coolest chairs are even up for sale (look for the labels). The killer detail: in the bathrooms, you won’t find one meager hanger but a wall-full of solid hooks where you can safely rest every single one of your fashion accessories. As for charging stations or Wi-Fi access for your electronic devices, Schiphol is one of the best-connected airports in the world. How do they test the appeal of the airport? Every year, the team spends a night at the airport, pretending to be customers. They call it the Night Butterfly experiment. ‘Our driving force is “guide me, relieve me, excite me”,’ conclude Laurs and Van Deelen, proud of their mission to ensure that every traveller enjoys an easy connection and a wait time ‘on-demand’: relaxing and comfortable, delicious and luxurious, or fun and exciting.

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

AMSTERDAM GIFTS

TOP 5 #iamsterdamstore

LOWLANDER BEER GIFT SET With beer this good, the Netherlands sure is challenging Belgium as the titleholder for the best beer in the world. Launched in 2016 to revive the Dutch culture of beer brewing, the Lowlander beer brings botanicals back into the brewery. Stock up on these sets, which contain an IPA, white ale and porter as well as a glass from which to drink them. €14.95

THE DUTCH AND THEIR BIKES This book, a collection of photographs depicting the Dutch cycling culture from the perspective of an American photojournalist, doubles as eyecatching décor. It’s a gift for photographers and art lovers living in Amsterdam or those who just love this quirky characteristic of the Netherlands – and it makes quite the conversation piece. €29.90

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAG You’ve heard of the Birkin bag, but probably not the buurten (neighbourhood) bag. Whether your

friend spends their time kicking back in Westerpark, critiquing art in Oud-Zuid or discovering musicians at NDSM, this gift lets them carry Amsterdam on their arm, showing off their favourite corner of the city in style. €8.99

JIP & JANNEKE Kids are like little sponges, absorbing language and culture far easier than adults – so give them something to soak up! This famous book series has been a must-read for Dutch children since it as rst u lished in the 1 0s, and its le erness and simplicity engage all young readers. Not only will the kids love the stories, they’ll love feeling part of the culture. €19.95

hal

KATTENPANDJE VINTAGE VILLAGE From independent shop KEK Amsterdam, this little hiding spot is made from what kitties love most of all – a simple cardboard box – but with all the details of a castle, including windows and turrets. €19.95

Central Station main entrance

iamsterdam.com/store

When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

A ROUND OF APPLAUSE

hen former Amsterdam mayor Eberhard van der Laan disclosed his lung cancer diagnosis in a letter to the city’s residents in January 2017, he said he wasn’t done yet. ‘I wish to remain your mayor for a little longer,’ he wrote. Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

By 18 September, ‘that little while longer has now come to an end,’ the mayor wrote in a second letter, explaining that with no more available treatment, he was stepping down. What followed was an outpouring of collective grief few leaders in these angry times could expect. Some 1,000 people gathered in front of the mayor’s Herengracht residence, erupting into a minute’s-long applause and serenading him in what his wife called a ‘beautiful gesture’. The mayor died on 5 October. I knew Van der Laan was popular, but I was surprised by the depth of Amsterdammers’ feelings for their mayor. I applauded his ‘Sinterklaas is a festival for everyone’ statement when black-faced Piets were banned from Amsterdam’s Sinterklaas celebrations, and his teaching sexual diversity to schoolchildren. But the love stories from Amsterdam’s trenches have little to do with policy and everything to do with the man. Alexandra Roskam fondly remembers the mayor attending a farewell

party for a long-time Albert Heijn cashier. British resident Helen Hill recalls the Brexit meeting when Van der Laan assured Brits the city would be their advocate. Many, such as Martine Beijes, ‘saw a father, not a mayor’. Accolades such as ‘man of the people’, ‘witty’, ‘caring’ and at ease with both King and hardest-pressed subjects alike abound. ‘He could also be rude and intimidating,’ says Het Parool’s Roelf Jan Duin. ‘But it made him a strong leader.’ Duin also attributes the current ‘Van der Laan mania’ to a secular people needing a collective cause (or at least a collective social media moment). And because mayors are appointed rather than elected, he says, they can rise above the political fray: more father figure than party leader. That rings true for graphic designer and Gall & Gall employee Marnet Schoemaker, who recreated cartoonist Joep Bertrams’ image of the mayor gently urging an apprehensive young biker forward on her store’s shutters. ‘It’s about letting go,’ says a teary-eyed Schoemaker. ‘Like the boy on the bike, the mayor is giving us a last little push. Although we can ride, we’re not really ready.’ The mayor did leave a blueprint of sorts for the kinder Amsterdam he wanted to bequeath to its residents, as expressed in his resignation letter. ‘Please take good care of our city, and of each other,’ he said. ‘Farewell.’

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

BROUWERIJ TROOST

Land van Cocagneplein 1A brouwerijtroost.nl

Following successful brewpubs in De Pijp and Westerpark, Amsterdam’s (allegedly) largest independent brewer recently opened its first location in East. Fans will know that historic locales are part of the craft brewer’s appeal, and Troost Oost doesn’t disappoint. Sitting on a square adjacent to Oostpoort shopping centre, the 1885 Neo-Renaissance monument was designed by Isaac Gosschalk, who was also responsible for the Westergasfabriek across town, where Troost’s largest location is based. The former police station now features 14 steel beer kettles and oak vats for barrel-ageing and distilling, thanks to the first distillery licence of its kind bestowed by the municipality in 200 years! There’s room for over 300 customers on rust-coloured steel benches at blonde wood tables in an airy interior with two conservatories, bare-brick walls, blackboards and green-and-white resin floors, and on the twin terraces outside. The brewpub’s renowned burgers – juicy, flavourful and with just the right bun-to-brioche ratio (from €11.50) – and superlative fries remain on the menu, but there’s also homemade pub food and snacks. The brewery’s 14 titular beers on tap (from €2.80) cover a range of styles, from easy-drinking pilsner to barrel-aged barleywine and four versions of still-trendy IPA. In short, no matter what your tastes, this is one police station where you won’t mind spending some time.

NEW

eating out

45 trendy JACOBSZ In a recently restored 17th-century courthouse where Napoleon was once handed the keys to the city, Watergraafsmeer’s most popular next-gen restaurant has been doling out carefully-considered yet competitively-priced plates since its opening last summer. A recent menu (4 courses for €42, with fish, meat or vegetarian options) at the hip-yet-homey restaurant included pleasant surprises such as perfectly pan-fried haddock and creamy mussels with singed shaved cauliflower, lambic beer foam and dill oil, and kefir cheesecake with herb bitter parfait, bay leaf syrup and black muscovado crumble.

critic’s choice BEULINGS

©MITCHELL VAN VOORBERGEN

Ringdijk 1A jacobsz.amsterdam

or almost a decade, proprietor and chef Bas Bont has been doing what he does best: cooking up a seasonal chef ’s menu (from €59.50 for 5 courses) in which one single dish can hint at classic French cuisine, molecular gastronomy techniques, and Dutch foraged foods and heritage pickles, all at the same time. Coupled with impeccably paired wines, finely honed service and an unaffected ambience that allows you to concentrate on all those delicate flavours, it’s the perfect place to while away a rainy winter’s night. Beulingstraat 9 beulings.nl

classic POMPSTATION

quick & simple JACKETZ The recent opening of a third location is a testament to this jacket potato concept’s success; little wonder in a spud-loving country like the Netherlands. Expect baked potato perfection with a crisp, salt-flaked skin, a creamy centre and Normandy crème fraiche (from €3.95). Additional toppings include tangy pulled pork in whisky-maple sauce, traditional Dutch beef stew, salmon in herbed quark, and zesty beetroot salad. Nieuwendijk 32 jacketz.nl

Also Kinkerstraat 56

This soaring space for serious steaks is set in a still-functional early 20th-century water pumping station with 18-metrehigh arched ceilings, which vibrate on rainy days. Wagyu & Livar bacon burgers (€17.75) and judiciously-aged hunks of Holstein entrecote served with PX sauce (€26.75) hold enduring appeal to Pompstation’s carne-inclined clientele. Do call for a side of ‘lazy bitches’ fries (hearty and thick-cut, made from unpeeled potatoes), a salver of sherry-doused mushrooms and a slab of seared duck liver on the side: PC-police be damned! And, if you need further convincing, there’s live jazz (Thursday-Sunday) too. Zeeburgerdijk 52 pompstation.nu

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

wine bars

sit-down lunch

fireside favourites

WESTER WIJNFABRIEK

THE LOBBY FIZEAUSTRAAT

PARK

Located in the hip Westergasfabriek, a former gas distribution station that once kept the city’s street lamps lit, this wine bar serves over 70 wines by the bottle and 15 by the glass. You’ll find a wide range of vin naturel, and organic- and biodynamic wines from small wine estates here. Or make your own custom blend to take home in the ‘wine lab’. Pazzanistraat 10 westerwijnfabriek.nl

Whimsical ’70s wood panelling and modern macramé mesh with industrial concrete and velvety golds and greens to create a stylish setting for relaxed, internationallyinspired 3-course lunches (€34.50) at this retro-hip hotel restaurant near Amstel Station. The business menus make it a smart choice for corporate lunches too. Fizeaustraat 2 thelobbyfizeaustraat.nl

BUBBLES & WINES

CHOUX

A champagne cork’s popping distance from Dam Square sits a low-slung wine bar that attracts oenophiles from far and wide with an impressive wine list featuring some 750 bottles (including over 200 champagnes), with 50 of these available by the glass. Can’t choose? The flights are a great way to sample three half glasses from a particular region, varietal or style.

Pretty plant-led plates are the only eye-candy in this sparsely decorated former factory in Oosterdok. Chef Merijn van Berlo’s inventive cooking pairs mismatched ingredients to create a (mostly) happy marriage that always packs in the flavour. For such a centrally-located restaurant, it’s affordable by Amsterdam standards (from €36 for a 3-course menu).

Nes 37 bubblesandwines.com

DIVINO This cosy Jordaan wine bar has built up a loyal clientele with its small but outstanding Italian wines, sourced directly from organic farms that still uphold traditional wine-making methods. There are nibbles too, from olives and garlicky bruschetta to antipasti plates with Italian cheese and cold cuts, as well as simple pasta. Boomstraat 41A wijnbardivino.nl

A warm wood interior, with wall-sized windows and plenty of plants and brick, brings the outside in at this eatery with a floating steel fireplace. There’s been a renewed buzz about PARK since signing Executive Chef Peter Scholte (ex-The Duchess), who offers a tasty take on prawn kataifi, but truly impresses with desserts like brûléed strawberry cheesecake. ‘s-Gravesandestraat 55 parkcafe-restaurant.nl

PLLEK This self-proclaimed ‘creative hang-out’ and organic restaurant (think veggie tagines, wild boar croquettes, MRIJ-burgers) delivers breathtaking panoramas of the IJ all year round. The pebble beach and picnic tables are popular in the summertime, but the cosy fireplace and live music draw everyone in on cooler days.

De Ruyterkade 128 choux.nl

TT Neveritaweg 59 pllek.nl

BISTROT NEUF

VERGULDEN EENHOORN

This Francophile’s delight is refreshingly authentic in its cuisine, with an unpretentious atmosphere and a wine list that covers all the major French regions, with more than three dozen wines by the glass. The menu is a succession of unadulterated Gallic classics, from garlicky escargots and côte de boeuf with béarnaise sauce and frites to silky crème brûlée. Haarlemmerstraat 9 bistrotneuf.nl

This unexpectedly rustic refuge off busy Wibautstraat is ideal for cosy dinners or chewing the cud on rainy afternoons on leather couches by a copper fireplace. Duck confit with zuurkoolstamppot (mashed potatoes with sauerkraut and pancetta) and apple gravy featured on a recent 3-course week menu (€29.50).

Ringdijk 58 verguldeneenhoorn.nl

trend

FRIED TREATS

Doughnut worry, be happy Beyond the borrel They’re served fresh and hot from n a city obsessed with healthy

eating (Amsterdam is supposedly the vegan capital of Europe), the popularity of indulgent foods poses an interesting paradox. Perhaps we want to spoil ourselves now and again, but the treat-du-jour has to be worth the calories: an epicurean experience with fashionable fillings and selfie-ready looks. Following cupcakes, macarons and eclairs, doughnuts are now taking their turn on the culinary catwalk. At recently opened Peejays Doughnuts, you’ll find handcrafted Berliners filled with coffee crème brûlée or lemon meringue, and rings topped with chocolate-caramel-sea salt or vanilla disco. Meanwhile, Harewood Bakery’s beignet-style doughnuts are made with brioche dough that’s left to rise overnight, in flavours such as advocaat and maple-pecan. Have you tried Louisiana-style beignets?

Miss Louisa Coffee & Beignets’ tiny storefront; simply fill the puffy pockets with one of four sauces (the berry’s your best bet). Or sample the city’s ‘best oliebollen’ (crisp-fried traditional Dutch doughnuts, sometimes made with raisins and currants, and served with a seasonal snowfall of icing sugar) at de Bakkerszonen. PEEJAYS DOUGHNUTS Vijzelgracht 37 peejaysdoughnuts.com HAREWOOD BAKERY Albert Cuypstraat 62-O harewoodbakery.nl MISS LOUISA COFFEE & BEIGNETS Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 5 facebook.com/MissLouisaAmsterdam DE BAKKERSZONEN Mosveld 13 (also Beukenplein 8) debakkerszonen.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Imke Walenberg

BOYCOTT BOOKS

NEW IN TOWN

fter 30 years as a grocery shop, this Amsterdam Noord address is getting a new lease on life as a bookstore that’s all about unique contemporary literature and print. With titles in Spanish, French, German and of course English, they carry a vast international selection of gorgeous tales for children and rare photo and art books, such as Topsy Turvy World by Flying

Eye Books, or Issun Bôshi, the Japanese tale of a small samurai boy. A true paradise for all people (young and old) who love beautifully illustrated books. Their wide choice of prints and posters is also perfect to add a little graphic joy to your walls (or your kids’, especially if you’re looking for colourful decorations that escape the usual box). And if you are an illustrator yourself, you can always ask if they want to add your creations to the collection: the owners are

always looking for new artists to work with. Located on the Northern side of the Noorderpark, accessing Boycott Books takes a little public transportation or bike ride, but it sure is worth the trip. Waddenweg 10 boycottbooks.com

49 sitting pretty SOFACOMPANY Online furniture store Sofacompany just opened a showroom on the Stadhouderskade. It will be open six days a week, so consumers can see and experience the latest items ‘live’. The Scandinavian brand designs affordable furniture, by taking away ‘the middleman’ – which means no brokering fee or resale added. The designs are quite typically Scandinavian (clean and simple), with a wide array of choices in fabrics, and you can even put together your own piece of furniture. A sofa, after all, is not something you buy every day.

girls only

Stadhouderskade 115 sofacompany.com

Near the Overtoom in Amsterdam West, you’ll find a mixture of French, Australian, English and Danish brands at Following Lucy. According to the owners, the name Lucy stands for all women who are sophisticated and curious. That’s also exactly the vibe you’ll feel when you enter the shop. Unknown and upcoming labels, from romantic and feminine to clean and minimalistic; you’ll defintely step out this store with a unique outfit. Jan Pieter Heijestraat 119 followinglucy.com

watch your head

©WEN VAN WOUDENBERG (BEELDSTEIL.COM)STYLING: VOSGESPARIS

FOLLOWING LUCY

EQUANIMITY AT LIL‘ AMSTERDAM Equanimity stands for ‘unshakable balance of mind‘. As the website says: ‘With Equanimity your life becomes easier, less complicated and much more relaxed. It enables you to stay at ease in a turbulent world, so you can get the most out of life in every sense.’ Balance is quite primordial on a bike, and Equanimity‘s cool cycling caps (for men and women) are what you’ll find, among others, when you visit the Lil‘ Amsterdam shop. Plus, Equanimity donates a share of profits to the Maratika Foundation, which supports a Buddhist monastery in Eastern Nepal. Stationsplein 31-33 lilamsterdam.nl, wearequanimity.com

PART III VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

VISITOR INFORMATION

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10:00, and buy tickets at: lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM STORE A store for visitors and residents! With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open Mon-Wed: 08:00-19:00, Thu-Sat: 08:00-20:00, Sun: 09:00-18:00 iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store #iamsterdamstore

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com twitter.com/iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily, check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07:00-22:00

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 calendar days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in r on every trip each carrie

YM A D 1 A D R MSTE

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home. text Imke Walenberg

MONIQUE BROUNS

BOHO AMSTERDAM

Monique has been producing her own collections in Belgium and Italy for 25 years. In addition to her clothing line, she also sells home accessories, which she imports from Morocco, as well as vintage furniture. The printed t-shirts are produced environment-friendly, and printed in the Netherlands with the abstract art of her sister Danielle Brouns. This season she launches a menswear collection too.

A small, cosy and chaotic shopping paradise. At Boho you can have a wonderful time looking for special items for yourself or to offer as a gift. Most of their items come from mainly Dutch designers and creatives. The collections change on a regular basis, and are all chosen with love by the BOHO team.

Hannie Dankbaarpassage 2 moniquebrouns.com

L’ÉTOILE DE SAINT HONORÉ It’s all about luxury vintage bags, belts and wallets at L’Étoile de Saint Honoré. If you’re looking for an authentic antique handbag with a great story to tell, you’ll definitely find it here. Designer purses from Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, to Gucci, Balenciaga and Dior: if you’re a bag addict, this place is heaven for you. Heiligeweg 9 Oude Spiegelstraat 1 Reestraat 24 etoile-luxuryvintage.com

Waldenlaan 16 bohoamsterdam.nl

WOUTERS & HENDRIX Designers Katrin Wouters & Karen Hendrix have been designing unique, original silver jewellery for almost 30 years now, and three years ago they also started a gold collection. Each accessory has its own story, from the collection of items used to make it to its process of creation. You can now step into their first Dutch shop in the city centre, where you can immerse yourself in their colourful, fantastical jewellery world. Oude Spiegelstraat 5 wouters-hendrix.com

OU. BOUTIQUE STORIES

ENVII

Founders Valeria and Rosanne are convinced a great story never starts with a dull outfit. So they mix hand-picked collections to create unique ensembles with personality. The result: shoes from Milan, jeans from L.A., a blazer from Copenhagen and a handmade necklace from London. Chic basics, simple must-haves – they marry them to perfection.

Danish female fashion brand Envii has just opened a store in Amsterdam. It was in response to a huge demand for a local shop from Amsterdammers who are huge fans of Nordic designs in general, and of Envii’s great designs in particular. Lucky us. Now you can step on over to the Nine Streets and shop for their stylish items with their signature light and sweet touch.

Reestraat 16 boutiquestories.com

KLEIN BERLIJN As the name says, this shop is an ode to Berlin’s way of life. What started as a vintage concept store three years ago, has grown into a ladies clothing shop in the Watergraafsmeer area. Sailor hats, jumpsuits, flared jeans... all of their fashion items have a little retro touch. Shoes and handmade jewellery also feature in the shop’s collection. Middenweg 36 kleinberlijn.com

Hartenstraat 9 envii.com

BIJZONDER AMSTERDAMS Cordaan is a healthcare provider for people who need nursing, care, guidance and/or support for short or long periods of time. Bijzonder Amsterdams is a label created by Cordaan, which sells unique products handmade by these people, from dishes and crockery to printed or embroidered clothes. There is even a possibility to order their creations with a custom touch. Zwanenburgwal 206 cordaan.nl/bijzonder-amsterdams

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

advertorial

A feast for the eyes Find the perfect gift or create an unforgettable holiday dinner table with Iittala’s timeless designs, with bright colours and whimsical patterns. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

e see them the world over, these delicate pieces of dinnerware veiled by clear pearls of glass, reminiscent of a fresh morning rain. They catch our eye from adorned dinner tables, wooden cabinets or even mantelpieces, with their enticing curves and colours, their grace almost royal. Originally designed by Oiva Toikka for Iittala in 1964, the Kastehelmi dewdrop collection has crossed many generations, so beloved that it was relaunched by the famous Finnish brand in 2010.

IITTALA Van Baerlestraat 76 iittala.com

BEAUTY AND BRAINS Like most of their products, the dewdrop design embraces Iittala’s ideal that objects for our home should be timeless. From the very

beginning, at the end of the 19th century, when Iittala was but a small glass factory in a village of southern Finland, its craftsmen have put the emphasis not only on the exceptional quality of the glass, but also on the beauty of its details. After the 1930s, their pioneering designers, Alvar and Aino Aalto and Kaj Franck, decided to modernise the products; a revolution in a world still laden by ornate, traditional and impractical tableware. Yet they never forgot the brand’s roots: beauty remains just as important as functionality. Simplifying the designs could not mean losing their character, and still today the creative team at Iittala strives to produce dinner-

ware that is just as practical for everyday use as it is visually awe-inspiring: flawless lines, classy shapes, and materials and decorations which can withstand the passage of years and trends. TIMELESS DESIGNS Because of this rare talent, it is not uncommon to see their older designs still in use today. Sometimes they have been passed on from generation to generation, treasured family heirlooms; but also, because demand has never waned, Iittala continues to produce some items from collections created decades ago, such as the Alvar Aalto vase, a marvel of delicate curves, which was first made in 1936. They still infuse their new prod-

ucts with this same spirit of timelessness. Heikki Orvola, one of the brand’s designers, has been with Iittala since 1968 – almost 50 years. Of his hundreds of creations, he describes ‘a design process that always starts with a strong focus on the objective’. Specialised in glass-blowing and ceramics, his years of experience have brought him a deep knowledge of Iittala’s drive to produce objects that will last in people’s homes and hearts. MIX AND MATCH What is most unique about Iittala’s different lines of products is how well they marry. While the shapes and colours can vary wildly, there is a cohesion throughout

their collection that makes it easy to mix and match them: their Teema dinnerware from 1952 looks ravishing accompanied by the more colourful Origo series created in 1999, or can be given a demure look by the 2012’s Sarjaton line. This combinability bears witness to the cohesion of their vision and craftsmanship, and to their impeccable taste – like a lady’s fine attention to the pairings in her jewellery box. AN AMSTERDAM FAVOURITE Iittala opened their first shop in Amsterdam in 2006, and moved to a new location at Van Baerlestraat 76 in 2015. ‘Nordic design may be a huge trend worldwide at the moment, but the Dutch have

always loved it: because of their no-nonsense, straightforward mentality, they prefer pure, clean, natural and simple designs,’ says Jutta Lechner, the store manager. She adds that the Museum Quarter is the perfect neighbourhood for this exquisite brand, because ‘it attracts a cultured, broad-minded audience – not only locals, but also design-hungry visitors’. A crowd favourite is the Teema collection, with its endless combinations of shapes, sizes and especially colours. All of the brand’s glassware is coloured through-and-through, insuring that its beauty and vibrance survive the test of time, the signature and pride of Iittala’s creations.

Feel at home in World Business Class Relax and enjoy your private space. With a full-flat bed seat and meals prepared by top chefs, the new World Business Class makes you feel at home - klm.com

Royal Dutch Airlines

PART IV

THE

nov & dec 2017

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see iamsterdam.com

SLEEPING BEAUTY Every holiday season, the Dutch National Ballet puts on a fairy tale production, to the enchantment of classical dance and princess fans young and old. This year, keeping with tradition, The Sleeping Beauty graces the stage of the DNB on Waterlooplein just in time for Christmas. You may think you’re familiar with Aurora’s story, but the numerous variations of both the ballet (itself based on the book, La Belle au Bois Dormant) and its dozens of adaptations mean that you’ll likely be surprised by many of the details. The ballet, accompanied by Tchaikovsky‘s composition, will be based on Marius Petipa’s original choreography, and produced and staged by Sir Peter Wright of The Royal Ballet in London and the Birmingham Royal Ballet.

9 DECEMBER-1 JANUARY 2018 National Opera & Ballet, Amstel 3 operaballet.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS FASHION CITIES AFRICA There is no such thing as African fashion. Instead, Africa has dozens of unique styles ranging from streetwear to couture, flourishing across the continent. Styles are personal, and often have deep local roots. ’Fashion Cities Africa’ explores these through the eyes of local designers, stylists and photographers. Tropenmuseum, until 7 Nov FOAM TALENT Soak up the newest photography talents at Foam. This year the museum launches its Foam Talent exhibition alongside Foam Magazine’s Talent Issue. Foam, until 12 Nov THE GULAG Over 18 million people were sent to the Soviet prison camps known as the Gulag, thousands of whom were Dutch. This exhibition gives insight into their daily lives, as well as the socio-political climate of the period. Dutch Resistance Museum, until 12 Nov ISWANTO HARTONO For the context of EUROPALIA INDONESIA, Iswanto Hartono has created site-specific works for the Oude Kerk. Within this monumental building he reflects upon the topic of colonisation, an issue strongly tied to the historic church. Oude Kerk, until 15 Nov JEWELLERY: DESIGNS IN PRINT AND DRAWING From a cursory sketch to a detailed drawing, designing jewellery usually begins on paper. Such paintings, leftover prints and drawings often constitute the only source of information about jewellery designs: over the centuries many pieces have been altered or melted down for their valuable materials. Fortunately, most of the designs are drawn to scale and rendered in perspective so that goldsmiths could use them directly as inspiration. Rijksmuseum, until 29 Nov advert

SONG FROM FAR AWAY 23, 30 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

DE STIJL AT THE STEDELIJK In an exhibition that occupies six galleries, the Stedelijk presents the breadth of its collection of De Stijl, and explores relationships between the movement and the work of other artists in the museum’s holdings. Stedelijk Museum, until 27 Nov JAMIE HAWKESWORTH: LANDSCAPE WITH TREE Meet Jamie Hawkesworth, a young photographer who’s become a favourite of the fashion world, headlining in all the biggest publications in the US and Europe. This exhibition is a journey through his artistic evolution to date, through reportage and travelogues to his recent series of nude portraits. Huis Marseille, until 3 Dec APICHATPONG WEERASETHAKUL & CAO GUIMARÃES Featured works from two award-winning film artists come together at the EYE Filmmuseum this autumn in one major exhibition. The works of Apichatpong Weerasethakul (1970) and Cao Guimarães (1965) will urge guests to step out of their structured reality and into new sensory experiences. They draw inspiration from the socio-political conditions of their respective countries, and explore life and the human condition. EYE Filmmuseum, until 3 Dec DOLL’S HOUSE The Doll’s House Project is a traveling exhibition of model houses, each designed and assembled by renowned Dutch architect Peter Masselink. Architecture Centre Amsterdam, 4 Nov-9 Dec DANCING WITH THE ENEMY ’Dancing with the Enemy’ follows the story of Tante Roosje, a free-spirited woman whose Jewish ancestry made her a Nazi target, as narrated by her nephew Paul Glasser. Glasser’s discovery of a suitcase with his family name on it in Auschwitz led him on an investigative journey that culminated in a book, exhibition and musical. Roos’s bold and insightful story shows us that the line between good and evil is, at times, very unclear. Dutch Resistence Museum, 22 Nov-31 Dec ALEPPO Experience a now and then view of Aleppo, the war-torn Syrian city. At the heart of the exhibition is the Tropenmuseum’s own scale model of the historic city, as it was then. This is paired with photographs by renowned photographers like Stanley Greene and Eddy van Wessel, postcards and videos, all providing insights into life in Aleppo before and during the war. Former Aleppo citizens will also host guided tours and share stories. Tropenmuseum, until 31 Dec

BRUTAL VITALITY Danish duo Bank and Rau have earned a reputation for their convention-defying and often challenging artwork. Their latest collection, titled ’Brutal Vitality’, includes handcrafted pieces inspired by the Cobra Museum’s permanent collection, in addition to abstract works previously crafted by Bank and Rau. Cobra Museum of Modern Art, until 31 Dec TIJDELIJK MUSEUM IN THE FORMER BIJLMERBAJES After a successful first edition in the former Shell Tower, the latest edition of the Tijdelijk Museum explores connections with the new residents of the asylum seekers’ centre set up in the former prison complex of the ’Bijlmerbajes’. The participating artists and designers were invited to make new work for the occasion. Examples include Leonard van Munster’s tree fountain in the courtyard, Teun Castelein’s Bijlmer Hammam in an old cell block, Mayra Sérgio’s tea landscape and Jan Hoek’s transformed scooters. Bijlmerbajes, until 1 Jan THE DUTCH IN PARIS 1789-1914 Travel back to 19th-century Paris, a hotbed of artistic creativity. Artists flocked from all over the world to be a part of it, and Dutch painters were no different - of course, Van Gogh’s brief time in Paris also marked a key shift in his painting style. This exhibition looks at how these international talents mixed - French art influencing Dutch art, and likewise - showing major paintings from both nations, side-by-side. Van Gogh Museum, until 7 Jan MATTHIJS MARIS A retrospective exhibition featuring the works of Maris, a 19th-century Dutch painter based mainly in London and Paris. Showing mystical or fairy tale-like figures, his works are unmistakable, and his eccentric lifestyle and idiosyncratic paintings provided inspiration to young artists, including Vincent van Gogh. Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan ANS MARKUS – ALS IK JOU WAS Markus takes us through her own thorough and ruthless self-examination journey. The exhibition will include her recent painting series Hidden Sorrow and The Pain of Old, as well as a wide selection of former work from sketches, drawings and smaller paintings to sculptures in bronze and porcelain that Markus has been making for years. Museum Jan van der Togt, until 7 Jan CARLOS MOTTA – THE CROSSING Carlos Motta’s ’The Crossing’ is a video portrait of 11 LGBTQI refugees who talk about their exodus from their

oppressive homelands, and journey to the Netherlands. The subjects – selected with the help of Amsterdam-based organisation Secret Garden – faced overt discrimination in Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Morocco, Syria and Pakistan, but also intimidation and exclusion during their asylum-seeking processes in Dutch refugee camps. Besides the video testimonials, the exhibition also features a small selection of historic objects from the Rijksmuseum, Tropenmuseum and Amsterdam Museum. Stedelijk Museum, until 7 Jan RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired exhibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz, blues, and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown’s cape can all be seen. Relive key moments in history through archival film clips and hear the personal stories that have shaped pop music around the world. Tropenmuseum, until 7 Jan ANOEK STEKETEE – TATELESS Document Nederland is an annual exhibition where the Rijksmuseum’s asks a Dutch photographer to focus on one topical societal issue. Worldwide, an estimated 10 million people are stateless, with no official nationality, no passport and no rights, so this year photographer Anoek Steketee has been commissioned to depict statelessness. Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan JOHAN MAELWAEL One of the founders of Dutch painting, Johan Maelwael painted everything from armour to large religious paintings, and refined miniatures in illuminated manuscripts. This late-14th century artist is also responsible for introducing his nephews, legendary miniature painters the Limbourg brothers, to Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy. Maelwael’s paintings will be exhibited alongside medieval artwork, metalwork, sculptures and manuscripts. Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan FERDINAND BOL: THE HOUSE, THE COLLECTION, THE ARTIST Museum Van Loon presents the art collection of Ferdinand Bol in the coach house of the museum. This 17th-century Dutch painter was the first resident of the canal house on Keizersgracht 672, the current museum. Along with his second wife Anna van Erckel, they collected works by contemporaries such as Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Ruisdael. Museum van Loon, until 8 Jan ANDRÉ KERTÉSZ – MIRRORING LIFE Hungarian-born photogra-

pher André Kertész made extraordinary contributions to photography and photographic composition throughout the 20th century. Known for his unusual compositions, and for capturing but never commenting on his subjects, Kertész spent much of his career feeling unrecognised. He is now often considered the father of photojournalism, and regarded as a master by many prominent photographers. Foam, until 10 Jan BODY ART Body art and body modification, including tattoos and piercings, but also scarification, branding and implants, have a long history and are present in numerous cultures around the globe. This exhibition explores the various meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity. Tropenmuseum, until 14 Jan KIJK AMSTERDAM 1700-1800 Eighteenth-century Amsterdam comes alive through a stunning collection of Amsterdam prints and drawings, courtesy of the Amsterdam City Archives. The collection is a comprehensive study of Amsterdam’s historical canals, residents, architecture and more, and is exhibited on an unprecedented scale. The collection is also extensively researched, from material and paper types to signatures and footnotes. Amsterdam City Archives, until 14 Jan ANOUK KRUITHOF The first major solo museum exhibition by photographer Anouk Kruithof (1981, Dordrecht). Foam commissioned Kruithof to create an entirely new body of work consisting of (photo) sculptures, a video projection and an animation. The works explore the complex relationship of man to nature in a post-internet era. Foam, 17 Nov-28 Jan LACE Thanks to celebrities like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Queen Maxima, lace has made a comeback as the quintessential luxury product. The Rijksmuseum has the largest lace collection in the Netherlands. It comprises around 3,500 pieces dating from the late 16th to the early 20th century. An important part of the collection consists of pieces belonging to Queen Wilhelmina, who had a great love of lace and assembled a beautiful range of items. Rijksmuseum, until 28 Jan ACCESSORIES ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND An exhibition highlighting the most remarkable pieces from the Rijksmuseum’s extraordinary accessory collection, including parasols, umbrellas, hats, hair accessories, shawls,

nov & dec 2017

ROMAIN MADER: THE FOLLOWING IS A TRUE STORY Romain Mader (1988) was chosen by an international jury as the winner of the Foam Paul Huf Award 2017. Now Foam presents an exhibition that forms part of his series ’Ekaterina’, with each installment shaping a narrative about a naive young man in search of a wife. Foam, 17 Nov-7 Feb

DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE STATE HERMITAGE One of the biggest exhibitions of the year, this collection of masterpieces from the Hermitage in St Petersburg shines a light on the Dutch Masters. Travel back in time to the Netherlands’ Golden Age and encounter many of the works that influenced artistic styles in the centuries that followed. Sixty-three works by 50 different artists will be on display here in Amsterdam, naturally including some really big names: Rembrandt, Ferdinand Bol, Gerard Dou, Govert Flinck and Frans Hals. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 27 May

’BRUSHES’ AWARD WINNERS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM The Rijksmuseum’s annual exhibition of original prints by the winners of the ’Penselen’ (Brushes), the ’Paletten’ (Palettes) and the ’Vlag en Wimpels’ (Flag and Pennants) awards. These awards honour the most beautifully illustrated children’s books of the past year. Rijksmuseum, until 11 Feb CROSSROADS: TRAVELLING THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES Crossroads is a journey through the Middle Ages that brings together top exhibits from leading artefact collectors. The exhibition’s eight themes are narrated by early Medieval travellers who connect the artefacts to the themes through film, publications and digital applications. Allard Pierson Museum, until 11 Feb GOVERT FLINCK AND FERDINAND BOL – REMBRANDT’S MASTER PUPILS A first of its kind, this exhibition of works by Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck – which includes exquisite portraits and dramatic scenes from the Bible and the classics – brings together paintings from museums and collections from all over the world, some of which have not been in the Netherlands since the 17th century. Amsterdam Museum, Rembrandt House, Royal Palace & Museum Van Loon, until 18 Feb JESPER JUST Danish artist Jesper Just, known for exploring ambiguous subjects such as gender, desire, relations and identity in his cinematographic works, is also known for his stunning spatial installations made from film. His exhibition at the EYE is accompanied by an extensive programme of films, talks and events in the cinema. EYE Film Museum, 16 Dec-11 Mar EXPOSITIE STREETS OF THE WORLD In 2009, Dutch photojournalist Jeroen Swolfs set out to visit and photograph street life in every country in the world. Streets of the World is a photography project that not only

“I AM A NATIVE FOREIGNER” Throughout 2017 and 2018, the Stedelijk Museum is mounting a series of exhibitions that explore different aspects of migration. The works shown here range from photographs of Dutch immigrants disembarking at New York’s Ellis Island around 1900, and Surinamese-born Dutch who made their home in the Bijlmer in Amsterdam southeast in the late ’70s, to more recent images of refugees off the coast of southern Spain. Stedelijk Museum, until 3 Jun

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution. BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens. DIAMANT MUSEUM The Amsterdam Diamond Museum takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth – ending in the present-day with beautiful cut diamonds. You’ll find out about the carbon atom, meet specialists who transform a rough stone into a sparkling jewel, learn how to distinguish between real and imitation diamonds and admire the collection of sparkling jewels on display. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum

Choice exhibit

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life. VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

WE HAVE A DREAM Delve into the lives of three influential figures of the 20th century: Mahatma Gandhi, Martin Luther King and Nelson Mandela. They were ordinary people who led extraordinary movements against racial discrimination and social injustice. All three became role models around the world but also drew fierce criticism and opposition. Experience their world, the injustice and the hope, the great moments in history and their personal journeys, as well as learning about the people trying to make a difference today. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 4 Feb

highlights scale, but also the vision of a photographer with a keen eye for culture. After seven years of travelling, it is time for seven years of sharing. Hembrugterrein, until 1 Apr

THE JUMP, JACK GOLDSTEIN (1978; STILL FROM VIDEO). ESTATE OF JACK GOLDSTEIN, COURTESY OF GALERIE BUCHHOLZ.

gloves, fans, shoes and stockings. Discover the most important accessory trends of the last 400 years. Museum of Bags and Purses, until 28 Jan

AD VAN DENDEREN – JERUSALEM STONE For almost 25 years Ad van Denderen, the acclaimed Dutch documentary photographer, has been photographing daily life in Israel and the Palestinian territories. He originally worked in black and white, in a classical, direct, reportage style. About 15 years ago he switched to colour, and since then he has employed a more detached and monumental photographic style. The exhibition ‘Jerusalem Stone‘ unites these two approaches to create a subtle depiction of the complex and precarious situation in this part of the world. Huis Marseille, 9 Dec-4 Mar with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques. GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side man-

JUMP INTO THE FUTURE In 2016, the German art collector Thomas Borgmann gifted a major selection of contemporary artworks to the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam. Borgmann’s donation covered the breadth and diversity of contemporary art produced throughout the 1990s and early 2000s. In this era, the boundaries in art were dissolving, and artists utilised media of all kinds, not committed to any one medium, working in painting, photography, drawing, sculpture, installation, video and performance. The museum is presenting a large selection from this donation. Stedelijk Museum, 26 Nov8 Apr sion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons. HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century. HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public. REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries. RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th century. HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ’Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing s eries of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ Choice pop & jazz

SAM AMIDON This American folk artist takes a grittier approach to the genre, SIGRID complimenting his stringed Norwegian singer-songwriter instrument – whether it be a Sigrid musically conquered her guitar, banjo or fiddle – with his homeland in 2013 with her de- tender, melancholy-laced vocals. but single, ‘Sun’, which she wrote He's known to take sharp turns when she was just 16 years old. in some of his tracks, venturing Even then, her songwriting was into jazz and sometimes even skilful, heartfelt and genuine. improv, so there’s no knowing Fast forward to 2017, and the where this soulful folk songster 21-year-old is making waves inwill turn next. ternationally with her emotional Sun 5 Nov, Bitterzoet, blend of synth-pop. 21:00, €14 Wed 1 Nov, Melkweg, JAMES BLUNT - THE AFTER19:00, €15 LOVE TOUR MANCHESTER ORCHESTRA Although this tour is promoting Despite the name, they’re not an James Blunt's newest release, ABBA GOLD – THE CHRISTMAS SPECIAL orchestra from the northwest of you can still expect to hear masEngland. In fact, they’re a pretty sive hits such as 'You’re BeauABBA fans rejoice, as one the Swedish pop group‘s best cool indie band from the US tiful’, ‘Goodbye My Lover’ and tribute bands are putting on a Christmas show dedicated to who respect Manchester’s bohe‘Stay the Night’. the legendary pop stars. The tribute consists of members mian vibe and rich musical hisMon 6 Nov, AFAS Live, of the world-famous ‘Mamma Mia‘ West End musical. The tory. Having just released their 20:00, €45 band (and the audience!) will be singing, dancing and jumpfifth studio album, these boys ing to classics such as ‘Waterloo‘, ‘Dancing Queen‘ and – of THE RESIDENTS consistently impress fans and course – ‘Happy New Year‘, plus maybe some disco-infused critics alike with their layered The masked maniacs from San festive tunes. and cinematic indie style. Think Francisco have returned, and Sat 23 Dec, Q-Factory, 20:30, €25 a young U2 with gang vocals – their performance promises to be and less of a messiah complex. stranger than ever. This mysteriThur 2 Nov, Melkweg, ous avant-garde collective have 19:00, €15 been smashing genres together for 45 years. Expect bizarre comNELLY binations of George Gershwin Global hip-hop superstar Nelly, and James Brown, or John Philip famous for tracks such as ‘DiSousa and Hank Williams, and lemma’, 'Over and Over’ and unsettling concept albums such ‘Hot in Herre’, was arguably as ‘The Third Reich ’n Roll’. one of the biggest artists of last Tue 7 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan decade. ’t IJ, 20:30, €28-€35 Fri 3 Nov, The Box, RUN THE JEWELS 22:00, €22.50 Hip-hop duo Run the Jewels MARK GUILIANA JAZZ TINARIWEN JOEY BADA$$ (rappers El-P and Killer Mike) QUARTET Joey Badass first captured are revered in the rap scene This Grammy Award-winning the attention of the rap world for their ferocity, defiance and Mark Guiliana has acquired group of Tuareg musicians in 2010, after he uploaded a hard-hitting lyrics – while still an impressive cult following have been active for alfreestyling video to YouTube, specialising in thick beats and as a hard-bop drummer – most 40 years now. Hailing which later went viral on World fun performances. as well for his notable use from Mali, their hypnotic, Star Hip Hop. Seven years later, Tue 7 Nov, AFAS Live, of hip-hop and electronic guitar-driven sound has its the 22-year-old songwriter is 20:00, €40 beats. The American percus- origins in traditional West now one of the most promising sion pro paid his dues in the African music, but it also JAMIROQUAI names in rap. band of celebrated double embraces elements of blues, Fri 3 Nov, Paradiso, As one of the biggest names in bassist Avishai Cohen and folk and rock – with some 20:30, €25 the London funk and acid jazz in Mehliana, his electro/jazz mind-bending time signamovement of the ’90s, Jamiroduo with Brad Mehldau. tures thrown in for good WOLF ALICE quai had a lot to live up to when He‘s even collaborated measure. The group found This four-piece indie outfit from they released their first album in with – among others – David international success back in London were once unknowns at seven years, ‘Automation’, back Bowie, Gretchen Parlato and 2007‘s ‘Aman Iman‘, which London Calling festival. Since in March. The band definitely Meshell Ndegeocello. Now resonated with critics and then, they've played a sold-out delivered though, giving themhe presents his own music in music pundits worldwide. show at Bitterzoet, a rollicking selves a fresh dose of dance-funk this acoustic quartet. Tue 28 Nov, Paradiso, show at pop temple Paradiso, to play between the classics. Sat 18 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, 20:30, €23 and now: a show at another of Wed 8 Nov, Ziggo Dome, €18-€22 Amsterdam’s key music venues, 20:00, €39-€56 Melkweg. It’s safe to say that AMBROSE AKINMUSIRE QUEENS OF THE STONE AGE STEVE HARLEY & COCKNEY the city has fully embraced QUARTET REBEL With their unabashed experithe band’s cool mix of indie, shoegaze and folk. Steve Harley & Cockney Rebel, This American jazz trumpeter is mentation and sharp psychedelFri 3 Nov, Melkweg, 19:30, €17 whom you might know from hits a virtuoso in his field, melding ic influences, it's no surprise that influences from contemporary Queens of the Stone Age are like Make Me Smile (a big numadvert jazz and soul into emotional modern icons of hard rock. Each ber 1 hit in the Netherlands) and compositions with a technical and every QotSA album conSebastian, will rock the room at Q-Factory Amsterdam this No- edge. He even won the Carmine tains at least one rollercoaster of vember. One of the most creative Caruso International Jazz Trum- a groove fest, one pitch-perfect pet Solo Competition and the ballad and one radio-friendly British bands of the glamrock Thelonious Monk International indie romp. era, their music covered everyJazz Competition. Sun 12 Nov, Ziggo Dome, thing from pop to rock, and is Fri 10 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, 20:00, €44-€53 now an exotic and curious sound €18-€22 with both classical music and RISE AGAINST progressive rock influences. BRAD MEHLDAU & CHRIS If you spent any decent amount Thu 9 Nov, Q-Factory, 19:30, THILE of time in a skatepark during the €25 Earlier this year, musical innoearly ’00s, chances are KASABIAN vator Chris Thile – whose go-to you've heard Rise Against's instrument is his trusty manangsty and fist-pump-inducing After a sold-out show three dolin – released an album with concoction of melodic hardcore. years ago, English indie giants Kasabian are triumphantly re- pianist Brad Mehldau, featuring In true punk fashion, the band a mix of covers and original amassed an impressive followturning to AFAS Live with some tracks. Sat 11 Nov, Paradiso, ing through activism, angry cracking new material. 16 NOV 20:30, €35 lyrics and a general stick-it-toThur 9 Nov, AFAS Live, SURTITLED IN ENGLISH the-man attitude. And they just 20:00, €37

POP & JAZZ

SMALL SOULS

dropped a new record, so expect a fresh dose of angst. Sun 12 Nov, AFAS Live, 20:00, €41 TAKSIM TRIO The Taksim Trio have sent the Bimhuis audience into ecstasy several times now. These three virtuosos of Turkish music join forces in breathtaking ‘taksims’, improvisations containing aspects of Ottoman classical music, Anatolian gypsy music, blues, raga and flamenco. Sun 12 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:15, €23-€29 SONGHOY BLUES From Mali via London, Songhoy Blues' debut album emerged with African desert blues akin to Tinariwen, with a similar hearty dose of Jimi Hendrix-like riffage. Now true African-rock crossover champions, the band's second album – this year's ‘Résistance’ – features even more ferocious riffs and an extra layer of funk in the form of keyboards and bass. Sun 12 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €15 QUEEN + ADAM LAMBERT Back in 2015, Queen + Adam Lambert played a sold-out show at Ziggo Dome, impressing crowds with renditions of Queen's biggest songs, including 'Bohemian Rhapsody’ and ‘We Will Rock You’. Now returning to the huge arena, they’ve promised a show that's even more spectacular. Mon 13 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €59 TOUMANI DIABATÉ & KAYHAN KALHOR These two masters of string made quite the splash when played together at Bimhuis last year, so they simply had to return for another show. Grammy Award-winner Diabaté is one of the most influential musicians in Africa, wowing audiences with his skills with the 21-stringed African Harp. Couple this with Iran-born Kalhor’s majestic Kamancheh playing and you've got a stringed duet to remember. Tue 14 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:15, €20-€25 SHAKIRA This Columbian singer is one of the biggest modern popstars on the planet. She first cracked the English-speaking world with her fifth album, 2001’s ‘Laundry Service’, and she hasn't looked back since. Tue 14 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €49-€75 THE WATERBOYS This long-running folk group go a step beyond the indie bands that typically dominate the charts. As well as their dramatic, rock-rooted albums of old, these Celtic boys have added some modern influences, including hip-hop and disco, to their latest LP. Wed 15 Nov, AFAS Live, 20:00, €39.60 BONOBO This British DJ first broke through to the mainstream with

nov & dec 2017

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ the release of his 2010 album, ‘Black Sands’. Since then, he's been captivating the electronic world with his vibrant tunes and downtempo bass grooves that draw inspiration from all corners of the globe. Thur 16 Nov, AFAS Live, 20:00, €35

massive screens. Mon 27 Nov, Melkweg, 19:30, €15

lyrics – and he’s collaborated with the likes of Ed Sheeran, Chiddy Bang and Chance the Rapper. Tue 5 Dec, Melkweg, 19:00, €18

KONRAD KOSELLECK BIG BAND HIDDEN ORCHESTRA An accomplished jazz pianist and graduate of both Hilversum Witness the musical brainchild and Amsterdam conservatories, of one-man orchestra Joe Konrad Koselleck brings his Acheson, a British composer OSCAR AND THE WOLF passion, energy and humour and multi-instrumentalist. Oscar and the Wolf – the stage to the fore as the bandleader of Now on his third album, each name of solo artist Max Colomthis ensemble. Their frequent of the talented muso's releases bie – was founded in 2010. He adventures in Amsterdam's features guest musicians from a gained fame in 2014 with the Bimhuis throw up everything range of musical backgrounds, release of his debut album, ‘En- imaginable: jazz, cabaret, musi- which complements Acheson's tity’. The Belgian electropopper cals, pop, rock, funk, Latin and already mind-boggling range of already played a show at AFAS even classical music. influences, including everything Live earlier this year, and it went Mon 27 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, from rock and reggae to hip-hop so well that he’s already back €13-€16 and jazz. Expect layered percuswith two more! sion, dark overtones and an eeENTER SHIKARI Fri 17 & Sat 18 Nov, AFAS rie ambience as Acheson brings Live, 20:00, €37 Enter Shikari are one of the his inventions to the stage with more interesting bands to come his versatile live band. MASTODON out of the British post-hardcore Wed 6 Dec, Melkweg, 19:30, €15 This American metal band scene. The genre benders comGOLDEN EARRING seemingly came out of nowhere bine elements from hardcore in the ’00s, transcending the punk, metal, electro and UK These prominent Dutch rockers then-popular nu-metal trend grime to craft a truly individual have been a band for over 55 with their progressive concepts sound. The band may now opt years now, with a whopping and sludgy riffs. There’s a reafor a more mellow, politically 25 studio albums under their son most of the era's nu-metal charged message, but their veteran belts. As one of the early groups faded into the ether and clever songwriting remains as influencers of the European these guys still remain: eclectic and unpredictable as it prog-and hard-rock scenes, the Mastodon’s doomy musicianwas 10 years ago. modest Dutchies easily manship, innovative songwriting Wed 29 Nov, AFAS Live, aged to appeal to the internaand pure ambition have easily 20:00, €25 tional masses, thanks to popular ensured their place as one of the hard-rock hits such as ‘Radar NEW COOL COLLECTIVE most important metal bands of Love’, ‘Twilight Zone’ and ‘When the 21st century. New Cool Collective aren’t your the Lady Smiles’. Fri 17 Nov, Melkweg, average jazz ensemble. As well Sat 9 Dec, Ziggo Dome, 20:30, 18:30, €30 as being proud pioneers of the €43-€53 Dutch jazz scene for almost 25 LET‘S DANCE GOGOL BORDELLO years, they've toured the world A night of funk, disco and – from Africa to Japan – with These veteran Gypsy-punk dance, turning the Ziggo Dome their musical amalgamation of rockers are a raucous group that into a discotheque and sparklef- jazz, dance, latin, salsa, afrobeat draw in influences from just est. Special guests are disco legand boogaloo. And their enerabout every corner of the globe, end The Pointer Sisters. Joining getic stage presence and danceso you'll be hearing accordions them will be DJ Fedde le Grand able sounds always make the and violins just as much as and Dutch dancer Timor. crowd go wild. electric guitars and break-neck Fri 17 & Sat 18 Nov, Ziggo Wed 29 Nov, Tolhuistuin, drums. They’ve won over gigDome, 20:00, €68.50 21:00, €18 and festival-goers worldwide with their unrelenting stage GORILLAZ RUPAUL‘S DRAG RACE: presence and pure passion. CHRISTMAS QUEENS If you were around in the ’90s Sun 10 Dec, Melkweg, and early ’00s, you'd have Fans of hit US reality show 19:00, €26 been hardpressed to avoid the ‘RuPaul's Drag Race’ are in for KING KRULE cultural phenomenon that was a festive treat, as some of the Gorillaz, who hold the Guinness show's most popular queens are British singer, rapper and muWorld Record for 'Most Success- donning their flashiest dresses sician King Krule has a skill for ful Virtual Band' (a group made and make-up for a hilarious, combining diverse genres. His up of animated characters). raunchy and – of course – fabu- unusual mix of jazz rap, trip-hop Songs such as 'Feel Good Inc.' lous Christmas show, featuring and dub put him on the radar of and 'Clint Eastwood' made them traditional and original songs many a music journalist back in big, but tracks from this year's alike. 2013. Now on his third album, 'Humanz' are just as solid. Fri 1 Dec, Melkweg, 20:15, €45 the youngster continues to Tue 21 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 19:30, subvert genres with his unlikely POTTER / TABORN / €54-€64 mergings. HARLAND Sun 10 Dec, Melkweg, LONDON GRAMMAR Inventive saxophonist Chris 19:30, €17.50 This female-fronted indie and Potter, current-wave pianist JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE dream-pop trio are built on a Craig Taborn and sought-after CONCERTGEBOUW & foundation of melancholic gui- jazz drummer Eric Harland are MADELEINE PEYROUX tars, emotional lyrics and haunt- three New Yorkers who are acing vocals. But the band are tru- complished musos in their own American singer-songwriter ly in their element when they're rights. Now together as a trio, Madeleine Peyroux has become on stage enthralling crowds. each member brings a different a true star of the jazz and blues Thur 23 Nov, AFAS Live, nuanced and unique technique scenes, mostly thanks to her 20:00, €34 to the table. The result: an updistinctive, adaptable voice and and-coming jazz supergroup willingness to experiment. For PUBLIC SERVICE BROADthat's all about innovation, this show, Peyroux has compiled CASTING inspiration and experimentation a list of her biggest hits and This indie rock band don't have in their genre. tracks from her latest album, a lead singer. Instead, they’ve Sun 3 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, ‘Secular Hymns’. Needless to say, handed the mic over to voice €21-€25 with their world-class rhythm samples from old propaganda section and reputation as the HOODIE ALLEN films and informational videos, jazziest big band in the Nethmaking them one of the most With plenty of pop mixed in erlands, the Jazz Orchestra of ‘educational’ acts to burst out of with his hip-hop, Hoodie Allen the Concertgebouw are in their the London music scene in redropped his third LP, ‘Happy element performing with this cent times. Their live shows feaCamper’, last year. He sounds songstress. ture theremins, banjos and old like a happy Eminem, with a Mon 11 Dec, Royal public service announcement on cheeky tone and even cheekier Concertgebouw, 20:15, €39

GENTLEMAN German singer Tilmann Otto – AKA Gentleman – is one of the most prominent names in European reggae. He first fell in love with the genre when he visited Jamaica back when he was 17, and he’s been making great dancehall and Jamaican tunes since. After an excellent show last year, he’s returning to Melkweg for an acoustic encore in December. Wed 13 Dec, Melkweg, 19:30, €45

journey packed with singing, dancing and a seasonal helping of comedy. Wed 20 Dec, Apollofirst Theater, 20:30, €26.50

CHRISTMAS WITH THE KING Liven up your Christmas with one of the best Elvis tribute acts out there. Irish-born Grahame Patrick perfectly emulates every aspect of the seminal rock star, from his powerful and confident vocals to his effortless charm and swagger. Get ready for all the Christmas classics you love, KRUPA & THE GENES such as ‘Blue Christmas’ and ‘Holy Night’. But you'll also be Two of the biggest drummers on the Dutch jazz scene, Stefan bopping along to hits like '‘Suspicious Minds’, ‘Jailhouse Rock’ Kruger and Joost Patocka, deand ‘Blues Suede Shoes’. cided it was time to team up to showcase the best of the Nether- Thur 21, Fri 22 & Sat 23 Dec, AFAS Live, 20:00, €55-€69 lands’ jazz heads. The resulting septet features sparkling guitar DASH! riffs, hypnotic minimalism, inUtilising their skills with the telligent pacing and – naturally sax, bass and drums, Amster– drumming that’d turn even dam-based funk group DASH! Neil Peart's head. are celebrated for musically Thur 14 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, fusing the complexity of jazz, the €17-€20 melodies of blues and the FIVE FINGER DEATH PUNCH directness of pop. And now & IN FLAMES they’re joining forces with two super-talented Turkish musiTwo juggernauts of modern cians, Sufi singer Bora Uymaz heavy music hit the stage at this and harpist Meriç Dönük, gig. On the one hand, we’ve got to create a whole new groove metal pros Five Finger melody-packed sound. Death Punch, whose perfect Fri 22 Dec, Bimhuis, union of hard rock and thrash 20:30, €15-€18 secured them a place on the mainstream metal podium. And LETZ ZEP then there's In Flames, a SwedThere’ll always be fans of Led ish death metal band whose Zeppelin until the levee breaks. harmonised guitar melodies helped set them apart from the Their rock and roll is a stairway to heaven for so many and only metalcore crowd. Fri 15 Dec, AFAS Live, 20:00, €46 a lemon song to a minority. Even then, who doesn’t enjoy a tanNEW MODEL ARMY gerine? So break out a rain song or two for some good times, bad These English rockers are one times. After all, this is the closest difficult band to pigeonhole. you’ll get to being dazed and Since their formation in 1980, confused this side of Kashmir. they've dabbled in punk, folk Sat 23 Dec, Melkweg, rock, soul, metal classical – and 19:30, €21 everything in between. Their shows in Amsterdam, around IRÈNE SCHWEIZER & a week before Christmas, have HAN BENNINK become something of an annual Innovative Swiss pianist Irène institution, with their hardcore Schweizer and Dutch jazz drumfanbase willing to go with the mer Han Bennink join forces in sonic flow – but don’t expect this improv concert. Schweizer Santa hats. – a pivotal figure for female jazz Sun 17 Dec, Melkweg, musicians – is revered for her 18:30, €20 spontaneity and elaborate reperMATHILDE SANTING: SANT- toire. And Bennink’s drumming ING IS COMING TO TOWN is as adventurous as it is technical. Needless to say, they’re Dutch singer Mathilde Santing, a swingy force to be reckoned born in Amstelveen, is celebratwith when they team up. ed for her reimaginings of clasWed 27 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, sics by Todd Lundgren, Randy €17-€20 Newman and Frank Sinatra. But for this concert, Santing is comadvert ing to town with a selection of hand-picked Christmas covers. And with pianist Thijs Borsten and guitarist Maarten van der Grinten backing her up, this festive performance is sure to be magical. Tue 19 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €24 A CHRISTMAS TO REMEMBER Starring Dutch diva La Sirène (Wilma Bakker), this nostalgia-infused concert features the Christmas songs we all know and love. Armed with glitz and glamour – and backed up by Jimmy Sernesky (trumpet) and Stan Haywood (piano) – she takes concertgoers on a festive

THE HIDDEN FORCE

14, 21 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL Choice classical CLASSICAL SINGING IN DE HALLEN Every first Sunday of the month, choirs perform in the central passage of De Hallen in Amsterdam. Sun 5 Nov & 3 Dec, De Hallen, 16:00, free PHILHARMONIC FRIDAYS Students of Amsterdam’s renowned music academy play great orchestral works in this series, which has them rehearse a new work every three weeks and perform it after only three rehearsals. This time, it’s Sibelius’ Violin Concerto (3 Nov), a yet to be announced work conducted by Ed Spanjaard (24 Nov) and Brahms’ Third Symphony (15 Dec). Fri 3 & 24 Nov, Fri 15 Dec, Conservatorium van Amsterdam, 12:30, free SUNDAY AFTERNOON ORGAN RECITAL Monthly organ recital taking place in the beautiful church on Prinsengracht. Please note that there’s no recital in December. Sun 19 Nov, De Duif, 16:00, voluntary donation LUNCH CONCERT The Royal Concertgebouw’s lunchtime concerts showcase everything from young up-andcomers through chamber music recitals to public rehearsals by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra (this time on 6 Dec). It’s advisable to show up at least half an hour in advance to guarantee entry. every Wed except 27 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 12:30, free ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA: GATTI MEETS ZIMMERMANN The celebrated German violinist Frank Peter Zimmermann teams up with the orchestra and its conductor Daniele Gatti for Beethoven’s much-loved Violin Concerto. After the interval: Brahms’ First Symphony. Thur 2 & Fri 3 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30-€130 NEDPHO GO – VIVALDI Bassoonist Margreet Bongers, soloist for the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and the Netherlands Chamber Orchestra, and Jeroen Soors, first oboist at the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, perform a Vivaldi programme that looks beyond the Four Seasons. Sun 5 Nov, NedPhO-Koepel, 15:00, €9.50 THE BACH CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF THE NETHERLANDS: ODE TO BACH Pieter Jan Leusink conducts his Bach Orchestra of the Netherlands, famed for its period instruments and concert practice, and the partner choir as they perform highlights from the great composer’s oeuvre, including the Second Violin Concerto and cantatas from the High Mass (Mass in B minor, or Hohe Messe) and the St John Passion. Sun 5 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €30-€85

Schatten’, a cantata he may have composed for his own wedding. Sat 11 & Sun 12 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, €16-€55

Sat 25 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €34-€39

DON COSSACKS CHOIR RUSSIA CARL ORFF‘S Head on a musical journey CARMINA BURANA through Russia’s culture and You may not yet have experihistory with the Don Cossacks enced the entirety of Carl Orff ’s Choir Russia. The choir, ac‘Carmina Burana’, but there is companied by the virtuoso little chance that you don’t know Instrumental Soloists Ensemble its first (and last) movement, ‘Philarmonia’ and conducted by ‘O Fortuna’, by heart. The InterMarcel Nicolajevich Verhoeff, national Symphony Orchestra will sing Russian songs. and The New Romanian Choir Sun 26 Nov, Royal Concertwill provide the music, with gebouw, 14:15, €45-€65 Raymond Janssen as conductor. CECILIA BARTOLI & Sun 12-Tue 14 & Wed 16 Nov, SOL GABETTA Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €69-€89 Two of the most captivating women in classical music will pit BERNARD HAITINK AND their talents against one another ANNIVERSARY CONCERT, WAR & PEACE THE CHAMBER ORCHESTRA this November. Soprano Cecilia OF EUROPE An evening for peace, this unique concert includes a world Bartoli and cellist Sol Gabetta premiere by Iraqi composer Hamid al Basri and his son Raad An evening of Mahler and Mo- will perform a series of Baroque Khalaf. ‘The Golden Bird‘ songs speak of love and peace, zart, courtesy of the exceptional- masterpieces covering almost a and include solo performances by Basri’s daughter Baidar Al ly talented Chamber Orchestra century of music. Basri, as well as authentic Iraqi and Syrian instruments. This of Europe and legendary Dutch Mon 27 Nov, Royal Concertgewill be followed by acclaimed Welsh composer Sir Karl Jenconductor Bernard Haitink. bouw, 20:15, €70-€149 kins’ ‘The Armed Man‘, a mass incorporating extracts from Talented soprano Anna Lucia TOMOKO MUKAIYAMA Christian mass, the Islamic call to prayer, the Bible and the Richter and baritone Hanno Indian Mahabharata. Müller-Brachmann (formerly Tomoko Mukaiyama is a of the Berlin State Opera) will Dutch-Japanese pianist, perSun 5 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, 15:00, €38 also lend their voices to what former and visual artist based in will undoubtedly be an uplifting, Amsterdam. She combines her romantic evening. professions of choice at her conWed 15 Nov, Royal Concertge- certs, creating a spectacle for the bouw, 20:15, €43-€114 eyes and ears alike. She’s known for her fascination with the BERNARD HAITINK unconventional, never failing to AND EVA-MARIA keep audiences on their toes. WESTBROEK: WAGNER Tue 5 Dec, De Duif, 19:00, Join two of the Netherlands’ €22.50 CONCERTGEBOUW QUATUOR DIOTIMA biggest musical stars as they ORCHESTRA AND BACH’S BEETHOVEN / SCHÖNLIZA FERSCHTMAN & create musical magic with the ‘HOHE MESSE’ BERG / BOULEZ FRIENDS Chamber Orchestra of Europe. Quatuor Diotima will perform The Royal Concertgebouw’s This performance will see Award-winning classical viothe composers’ stunning late annual Christmas concert is legendary conductor Bernard linist Liza Ferschtman will lead back, and this year they’ve string quartets, spaced over Haitink lead acclaimed soprano an octet of friends to bring you chosen to play Bach’s Mass in four concerts. With these, Eva-Maria Westbroek as she Schubert’s Octet in F, as well as B minor, for the first time in Beethoven defied the comsings Wagner’s ‘Wesendonck Composer in Residence Sebas45 years. It was one of Bach’s prehension of his contemLieder’ and Mozart’s ‘Haffner’ tian Fagerlund’s own Octet. She very last compositions, which poraries, and they only later and ‘Prague’ symphonies. will be joined by artists such as became some of the greatest brings together everything Fri 17 Nov, Royal Concertge- violinist Lilli Maijala and bassist Bach is known for, and one of musical compositions of all bouw, 20:15, €43-€114 Bram van Sambeek. the greatest musical works of time. Schönberg’s string Wed 6 Dec, Royal ConcertgeEAST JERUSALEM all time. The Royal Concertquartets are a beautiful rebouw, 20:15, €34-€54 WEST JERUSALEM flection of the man’s personal gebouw Orchestra and ColleGROOTKOOR GALA gium Vocale Gent will do this life, but also showcase the Israeli singer-songwriter David CHRISTMAS CONCERT masterpiece justice. composer’s innovative 12Borza is a Hebrew-song legFri 22 & Mon 25 Dec, Royal tone technique. end, and also a firm believer A Christmas concert like no othFri 17-Sun 19 Nov, Muziekge- Concertgebouw, 20:15/14:15, in peace through music; his er, the singers of the Grootkoor €33-€143 bouw aan ‘t IJ, €10-€37 singles have been used by both Holland will lend some 500 the Israeli peace movement and talented voices to the evening UNICEF. As an activist, he has and bring you a mix of deMARK PADMORE & MISHA FOMIN often toured or collaborated lightful Christmas classics and IMOGEN COOPER with Arab artists in an effort to carols. Talented soloists Karin Fomin may be known as a promote tolerance and underBloemen and Pia Douwes will The renowned tenor teams up romantic virtuoso, but is in standing between the nations. highlight the music, as will the with his favourite pianist for liefact a versatile pianist whose And in ‘East Jerusalem West remarkable 12-year-old Sterre der and chansons by Schumann, repertoire spans from Baroque Jerusalem’, Borza joins up with van Boxtel. Hahn and Fauré. through Romanticism to conthe talented Israeli-Palestinian Fri 8 Dec, Royal ConcertgeTue 7 Nov, Royal Concertgetemporary. Here he delights bouw, 20:15, €42.50-€50 bouw, 20:15, €30-€47 with Schumann’s romantic ‘Fan- singer-songwriter Mira Awad. tasie in C’, Beethoven’s intimate Expect a unique blend of music SING-A-LONG MESSIAH ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW Sonata No. 30 and Franz Liszt’s and vocals with pop, rock, SpanORCHESTRA & JULIA ish and Arabic influences. If you love to flex your voice and piano arrangement of Mozart’s KLEITER – MAHLER’S Tue 21 Nov, Muziekgebouw love Händel’s ‘Messiah’ even rousing ‘Champagne Aria’, from SYMPHONY NO. 4 aan 't IJ, 19:00, €10-€29 more, this concert is right up Don Giovanni. your street. Join in with the proMahler’s Fourth Symphony Sat 11 Nov, Royal ConcertgeTHE NETHERLANDS RADIO fessional orchestra and choir, or premiered in 1904 in this very bouw, 20:15, €28-€40 CHOIR: RACHMANINOFF'S – if you’re a little more reserved hall, with Mahler himself at ALL-NIGHT VIGIL GORDAN NIKOLIC AND – sit back and enjoy the spectathe baton. Today Daniele Gatti NETHERLANDS CHAMBER Rachmaninoff ’s All-Night cle. Tickets for singers cost €5 conducts and the orchestra is ORCHESTRA: STRAVINSKY Vigil – commonly mistranslat- more (at €30) but include sheet joined by German soloist Julia AND BACH ed as Vespers – is the Russian music, a rehearsal, lunch and a Kleiter for the angelic soprano composer’s most recognisable drink during the intermission. parts. After the interval, it’s time The Dutch Chamber Orchestra, Sat 9 Dec, Carré, 13:00. €25 for Haydn’s Cello Concerto no. 1. led by Serbian violinist Gordan work, and arguably his greatest Long thought lost, the work was Nikolić, will be celebrating a few achievement. The performance MESSIAH is based on the Russian Orrediscovered in the archives of weddings this November, and thodox ceremony of the same Handel’s ‘Messiah’ is a commenthe Czech National Museum in invite you to join them. The evetary on the biblical journey of Prague in 1961. ning’s musical performance in- name, involving all-night prayer throughout the church’s three Jesus, from his birth through Wed 8 & Thur 9 Nov, Royal cludes the three weddings from canonical hours: Vespers, Mathis death and to his ascension. Concertgebouw, 20:15, Stravinsky’s ‘Pulcinella’, and ins and the First Hour. The oratorio is one of the most €30-€130 Bach’s ‘Weichet nur, betrübte

nov & dec 2017

STAGE recognisable masterpieces in music, and one of the most popular for the holiday season. Sun 10, Sat 23, Tue 26-Thur 28 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, various times, €35-€90 WINTERREISE CHRISTMAS CONCERT Tenor Jeroen de Vaal of Vrienden van de Kamermuziek will this December perform Schubert’s beloved ‘Winterreise’; one of Schubert’s masterpieces, and a song cycle that arguably defined the genre. The performance is set in the beautiful Amstelkerk, and will be followed by snacks, eggnog and mulled wine. Sun Dec 10, Amstelkerk, 16:00, €15-€23 B’NAI B’RITH HANUKKAH CONCERT 2017 Celebrate the first day of Hanukkah this year with young Israeli minister and singer Israel Nachman of the Tel Aviv International Synagogue, accompanied by a vocal ensemble, a string quartet and a pianist, amongst others. The performance will include songs both traditional and contemporary, taken from the rich Jewish culture, and, of course, the lighting of the Hanukkah menorah. Tue 12 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €18-€54 WINDSBACHER KNABENCHOR SINGS BACH‘S CHRISTMAS ORATORIO The talented boys from the Windsbacher Knabenchor return to Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw to perform Bach’s iconic Christmas Oratorio. Led by charismatic conductor Martin Lehmann and supported by the musically magnificent Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin, these young men perfectly recapture the beauty of Bach’s 1734 epic. Wed 13 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35-€79.50 LEONIDAS KAVAKOS & YUJA WANG Two extraordinary stars of classical music team up for a dazzling evening of duets. Virtuous violinist Leonidas Kavakos has won many a coveted award, and Yuja Wang has built up a formidable reputation as a pianist who defies convention and loves to freestyle. Thur 14 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €25-€66 MESSIAEN: VINGT REGARDS Renowned Dutch pianist Ralph van Raat performs ‘Vingt regards sur l’Enfant-Jésus’, a seminal work of late French composer Olivier Messiaen. The 20-piece piano masterpiece is known for its exceptional difficulty, featuring subtle articulations and a complex dynamic range. Yet, there is plenty of room for creativity and interpretation, which is where Van Raat truly shines. Fri 15 Dec, Orgelpark, 20:15, €9-€15 CHRISTMAS CAROLS The New Amsterdam Chil-

dren’s Choir will delight this December with a selection of everyone's favourite Christmas carols. Alongside the Choir of the National Opera, the talented youngsters will sing classics like ‘We Wish You a Merry Christmas’ and ‘The Little Drummer Boy’. Their songs are the best way to light up a dark December day. Sat 16 Dec, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 16:00, free CHRISTMAS CLASSICS AT THE MOVIES The Südwestfalen Philharmonic Orchestra, led by skilled conductor Huba Hollókői, play a stunning Christmas Concert packed with tunes from everyone’s favourite festive films, including Home Alone, Miracle on 23rd Street and – especially for the younger ones – Frozen. Sat 16 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35-€49 A CEREMONY OF CAROLS New Vocaal Amsterdam (formerly the New Amsterdam Children’s Choir) perform Benjamin Britten’s ‘A Ceremony of Carols’ – as well as other 20th-century English and French Christmas classics. Watch in awe as over 300 talented young singers pour their hearts and souls into these festive numbers, complemented by captivating harpist Miriam Overlach and accomplished pianist Matthias Havinga. Sun 17 Dec, Orgelpark, 14:15, €12.50-€20 THE TÖLZ BOYS‘ CHOIR: EUROPEAN CHRISTMAS CAROLS The Tölz Boys’ Choir from Bavaria is one of the most acclaimed in the world, and frequently appear in oratorios and symphonic works alongside renowned orchestras and famous conductors. The choir is versatile, covering several genres and periods, but will this December be delighting listeners with a Christmas-focused selection of carols. Sun 17 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €18-€27 THE CLASSIC CHRISTMAS CONCERT 2017 For the second time, the Czech Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra and Choir will bring their immensely successful Classic Christmas Concert to the Netherlands. The talented orchestra and choir will be accompanied by top soloists such as Kiana Sass, Lenka Kucerová, Dusan Rusicka and Andrej Shkurhan, as well as conductor Damiano Binetti. Expect the masterpieces of Schubert, Bach, Caccini, Vivaldi, Mozart and Dvořák, but also unique interpretations of everyone’s favourite Christmas carols. Wed 20 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15,€49-€69 MESSIAH The Dutch Handel Association’s annual Messiah performance has been a staple of Amsterdam’s cultural agenda for over 70 years. Join van Hassen, the Choir of the Dutch

Handel Association and the Holland Symphony Orchestra in celebrating this remarkable masterpiece. Thur 21 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw,19:30, €39.50€42.50 WITTENBURG MUSIC COMPANY: CHRISTMAS CONCERT To celebrate the holiday season, Amsterdam’s own Wittenburg Music Company is putting on an extra-special concert. The 21-person philharmonic orchestra – versed in classical, blues, folk, jazz and more – will be bringing your favourite Christmas compositions and songs to life with clarinets, trumpets, flutes, saxophones and more. Fri 22 Dec, Oosterkerk, 20:00, free MUSICA AMPHION: BAROQUE CHRISTMAS CONCERT What better setup to your Christmas Eve than a morning with four of the greatest Baroque composers to have ever lived, as interpreted by Musica Amphion with Pieter-Jan Belder at the helm and soprano Ilse Eerens on vocals. The morning will include the works of Händel, Alessandro Scarlatti, Corelli and Francesco Manfredini – including the latter’s Christmas concerto. The talented musicians of Musica Amphion all come from important baroque orchestras such as the Orchestra of the 18th Century and Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra, and excel at bringing 17th and 18th century orchestral and chamber music to life. Sun 24 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €18-€27 BENJAMIN APPL SINGS SCHUBERT’S DIE SCHÖNE MÜLLERIN Award-winning baritone Benjamin Appl and pianist James Baillieu will join forces this new year’s and perform Schubert’s tragic ‘Die schöne Müllerin’. Appl will lend his voice to the part of the young journeyman who falls in love with the beautiful Müllerin, and lacking the social status to win her love, falls into despair and suicide. Sun 31 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €18-€27 advert

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. There’s also an early bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats, themes and open podiums. every Fri, CREA, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 THE RETURN OF ‘ALLO ‘ALLO! If you’re looking for the Fallen Madonna with the six big boobies, the Badhuistheater may be the place to look. This humorous comedy takes its lead from the classic British sitcom of the same name, presenting a silly but touching look at the French resistance movement during WWII. It's performed in English, with the bonus of some beautifully offensive French and German accents. Fri 3-Sun 12 Nov, Badhuistheater, various times, €15 SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE A new weekly comedy show that tackles the art of longform improv. That makes for a more laidback experience than you’ll usually find in Boom. So sit back and let these storytellers wander to weird and wonderful places. every Sun, Boom Chicago, 19:00/20:00, €15 SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 AMSTERDAM MAGIC SHOW The Amsterdam Magic Show is the city's first and only theatre show combining world-class magic and comedy. Taking place in an atmospheric cabaret theatre in the heart of the old city, the monthly show brings together some of the best international magic and comedy acts on the circuit. Tue 7 Nov & 5 Dec, Paleis van de Weemoed, various times, €25-€30 STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW IN ENGLISH The clue’s in the title. Stand-up comedy from a selection of performers, all in English. (almost) every Thur, Comedy Café, 20:30, €10-€12.50

KINGS OF WAR

20 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

KLEINE ZIELEN Renowned director Ivo van Hove’s third and final installation of his Couperus trilogy. Van Hove’s other theatrical adaptations of Dutch poet and novelist Louis Couperus included ‘The Things that Pass’ (2016) and ‘The Hidden Force’ (2015). ‘Kleine Zielen’ (‘Little Souls’) is a dramatic romance, which follows the

story and tragic downturns of the Dutch-Indian family Van Lowe. Performed in Dutch with English surtitles on this date. Thur 16 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €23.50-€33.50 MATA HARI Sometimes, real people’s lives and stories become so famous as to render them near-mythical. So it happened with Mata Hari, exotic dancer in Paris and World War I spy. As befits a legend, she is the focus of this large-scale production by the Dutch National Ballet, choreographed by artistic director and choreographer Ted Brandsen to music by Tarik O’Regan, one of today’s leading British composers. Wed 1-Fri 3 Nov, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 20:15, €22-€86 TRUMP UP THE VOLUME The political comedy team of Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but were they ready for President Donald Trump? Not since President George W Bush has there been an idea so disturbing to so many... yet so fantastic for comedians. Fri 17 Nov, 1 & 22 Dec, Boom Chicago, 20:00, various prices HOMME FATALE Why is it always the femme that is fatal? This is the kind of question that troubles Dutch-German theatre sensation and taboo-breaker Sven Ratzke. His response? 'HOMME FATAL', a performance featuring songs from the likes of Rufus Wainwright, Lisa Hannigan and Fay Lovsky; and one that has already met with high praise across the globe. Sat 4 Nov, De Kleine Komedie, 20:15, €10-€24.50 CLUB QUIZ This pub quiz takes place on a grand scale. And between the rounds, you can expect plenty of entertainment, all hosted by charismatic quizmaster O-Dog. On Monday nights the quiz focus falls more on Dutch news, while Tuesdays have an international flavour. Please note that the quiz is in English and Dutch, but always accessible to international audiences. Mon 6 & Tue 7 Nov; Mon 4 & Tue 5 Dec, Boom Chicago, 20:15, €15-€22.50 BELGIAN RULES / BELGIUM RULES A window into Jan Fabre’s Belgium, a misshapen, misplaced and mutilated country full of surrealist, peaceful anarchists, bursting with resourcefulness and independence. Fabre feels his strange home country can only be described through an equally fluid medium, that of theatre, music and images. He and an international cast of performers and musicians are searching for the Belgian identity, and sharing their discoveries through a travelling dance

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE and theatre performance. Tue 7 & Wed 8 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 19:00, €17.50€40 EINE FLORENTINISCHE TRAGÖDIE / GIANNI SCHICCHI Two different, single-act operas, ‘Eine florentinische Tragödie’ and ‘Gianni Schicchi’ will be staged together this November. The two stories beautifully contrast in both genre and music, but both share common themes: money changes people, and money tests love. Sat 11-Tue 28 Nov, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €22-€171 CARMEN A contemporary take on George Bizet’s classical opera Carmen, created by composer Thijs Borsten and mezzosoprano Tania Cross. The artists have combined the opera’s beautiful music with flamenco song and dance, fitting since Carmen is set in Spain. Sat 11 Nov, Meervaart, 20:15, €20-€30 TETRIS MON AMOUR Choreographer Roni Haver was once addicted to the video game that revolutionised the industry, and spread across the world: Tetris. Haver based ‘TETRIS Mon Amour’ o n the game, using it as a metaphor for life: push yourself to build up your score, master the game through speed and self-control and, of course, learn to fit into the structure before it’s game over. The performance will feature award-winning Club Guy & Roni dancers, and the ingenious musicians from Slag-werk Den Haag. Thijs de Vlieger, one-third of the acclaimed Dutch electronic music trio NOISIA, is the composer. Mon 13 & Tue 14 Nov, Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam, 20:30, €15-€35 SONG FROM FAR AWAY A young banker returns from New York to his birth city Amsterdam to be present at the funeral of his younger brother. Before the funeral he writes letters, alternately melancholic, rebellious or calm in tone, in an attempt to come into contact with the brother he never had any real contact with. The work is a monologue as a mourning process. These performances by Toneelgroep Amsterdam are in Dutch, but also with English surtitles on this date. Thur 23 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €23 DE MEIDEN A dark drama brought to Amsterdam by acclaimed English theatre director Katie Mitchell. ‘De Meiden’ (The Girls) tells the story of two maids with murderous intentions, based on the 1947 play by Jean Genet. The visually rich performance, based on a real murder case, will keep you on the edge of your seat.

Choice theatre

LA BOHÈME On the surface, ‘La Bohème‘ is about the love between the poet Rodolfo and the seamstress Mimi, two young people living in Paris in the mid-1800s. The romance itself is beautiful and heart wrenching, but ‘La Bohème‘ is much more than a love story: it’s a window into the music, art, literature and spirituality that seeded the European bohemianism movement. Produced by director Benedict Andrews and set against the exceptional talent of the Residentie Orkest (conducted by Italian composer Andrea Battistoni), this is one opera that cannot be experienced enough times. Fri 1-Fri 29 Dec, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €23-€182

THE SLEEPING BEAUTY ‘The Sleeping Beauty‘ graces the Amsterdam stage just in time for Christmas. The ballet, based on the fairy tale ‘La Belle au Bois Dormant‘, will be based on Marius Petipa’s original choreography, and staged by Sir Peter Wright of The Royal Ballet in London and the Birmingham Royal Ballet. Musical accompaniment comes courtesy of Tchaikovsky and the phenomenal Dutch Ballet Orchestra, conducted by Boris Gruzin. Sat 9 Dec-Mon 1 Jan, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €19-€84

KATHY GRIFFIN Award-winning stand-up comedian and actress Kathy Griffin is known for plenty of things, such as her primetime show ‘Kathy Griffin: My Life on the D-List‘, her LGBT activism and, of course, her photoshoot with the bloodied, decapitated head of Donald Trump. In her Laugh your Head Off world tour, Griffin plans to say things so horrible she’ll never be able to take them back, and hopefully crack you up in the process. Mon 13 Nov, Meervaart, 20:15, €29

Performances are in Dutch but with English surtitles on these dates. Thur 23 & 30 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10€36.50

BECOMING A creation of Spanish choreographer Iván Pérez, ‘Becoming’ is a hypnotic performance where dancers move with and against the flow. Set to Rutger Zuydervelt’s electronic music, it urges viewers to explore who they are in relation to each other, while also taking them on an emotional journey of intrigue and revelation. Tue 28 Nov, Theater Bellevue, 20:30, €11-€17.50

LA TRAVIATA One of the world’s most famous operas, La Traviata is the story of the courtesan Violetta (after whom the opera was originally named) and her love for Alfredo. Their love is idyllic, but tuberculosis, Violetta’s reputation and Alfredo family all play their parts in throwing their relationship into turmoil, culminating in a bittersweet ending with Violetta on her deathbed. Tears guaranteed. Fri 24 Nov, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €45

AL PITCHER – SWEDEN SYNDROME Comedian Al Pitcher moved to Sweden in 2010, and quickly made a name for himself in the Swedish stand-up scene. He has since enjoyed sold-out performances, won a series

of awards and made several television appearances. This year, Al is on tour again with his new international standup show ‘Sweden Syndrome’, his personal story about his love for his new homeland, Sweden. Thur 30 Nov, Comedy Café, 20:30, €15 UNDER SIEGE (EXPLORE FESTIVAL) ‘Under Siege’ is renowned choreographer Yang Liping’s stunning vision of the climactic battle between the Chu and Han armies, an ambush that changed the course of Chinese history. Liping’s staging is set against Oscar and BAFTA awardee Tim Yip’s (‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’) visual magic, and brought to life by a cast comprising Peking Opera principals, hip-hoppers, contemporary dancers and traditional musicians. Thur 30 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €15-€32.50 7: TRIPLE MOON 7: TRIPLE MOON is an ode to female power. A creation of choreographer Nicole Beutler, the performance contains a wealth of mythological, historical and philosophical references: three dancers bring their tribute to a mysterious, three-legged pagan moon goddess in a ritual that flows like a dreamscape. Mon 1 Dec, Meervart, 20:15, €15-€25 MARGARET CHO – FRESH OFF THE BOAT The one and only Margaret Cho is back in Amsterdam on with another savage stand-up set. If you’ve only seen her on television then you haven’t yet seen her in her element. Her shows are often critical (and this is putting it mildly) of social, racial and sexual norms, and her latest show, ‘Fresh Off the Boat’, talks about her recent dance with booze and drugs, and how she survived it. Mon 4 Dec, Meervaart, 20:00, €32 THE NUTCRACKER Tchaikovsky’s beautiful ‘Nutcracker’ score is, to many, synonymous with Christmas, as is the story of Clara and the Prince. Fairies, tin soldiers, dancing sweets and an evil army of rodents in ballet shoes will all grace the stage this season, and you wouldn’t want to miss them. Tue 5 Dec, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €20-€51.50 DE STILLE KRACHT This production is part of a series of adaptations of novels by Louis Couperus by Ivo van Hove and his Toneelgroep Amsterdam. ‘De stille kracht’ (‘The Hidden Force’) is set in the Dutch colony of Java and tells the story of a Dutch official who is struggling with a tumultuous and unhappy family life and the rejection of the locals he is supposed to govern. In Dutch with English surtitles on the dates below. Thur 14 & 21 Dec,

Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €21-€33.50 TABULA RASA – ISABELLE BEERNAERT Choreographer Isabelle Beernaert explores what it means to start over and seek freedom from constraints. This is set to music courtesy of Muse, Armand Amar, Max Richter and Damien Rice. Thur 14 Dec, Meervaart, 20:15, €22-€32 KINGS OF WAR Once more unto the breach, dear friends: much like his earlier six-hour Roman Tragedies, Ivo van Hove’s ‘Kings of War’ fuses several Shakespeare plays into one. This time, one of his most-loved kings, Henry V, meets one of his most reviled, Richard III – with Henry VI as a buffer. Van Hove focuses on how differently the three kings choose to act as leaders in times of war. Performed in Dutch with English surtitles on this date. Thur 21 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 19:00, €12.50-€39.50 WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another magical seasonal run. It’s one of the most acclaimed circus festivals in the world and features countless top stars of the ring. Thur 21 Dec-Sun 7 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices SWAN LAKE ‘Swan Lake’ tells the story of the swan queen Odette, cursed to transform into a swan during the day, and who will never be free unless she finds true love. This comes in the form of Prince Siegfried, who after a few missteps, including near-murder and a case of mistaken identity, finally delivers salvation. Fri 22 Dec, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €35-€36 SOUTH AFRICAN ROAD TRIP A remarkable performance of songs both energetic and intimate, from the Western Cape of South Africa. The Khayelitsha United Mambazo Choir (known for Amandla! Mandela) and Xhosa singers Lungiswa Plaatjies and Nomapostile Nyiki, join forces with Afrikaans rapper Jitsvinger to bring the region’s richness of language, culture and Christmas traditions to the stage. Wed 27 Dec, DeLaMar Theater, 20:30, €19,50€29,50

nov & dec 2017

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING CHEEKY MONDAY The legendary jungle club night that first saw the light at Winston Kingdom is back! Expect bass heavy dubstep wobbles, amen breaks, gabba beats and drum & bass. London’s veteran DJ Randall serves the tunes on the very first Cheeky Monday at Melkweg. It turns out Mondays aren’t so bad after all! Every Mon, Melkweg, 23:0005:00, €7.50 BRAINWASH Big room house, go-go dancers, a usually busy VIP lounge… Chic clubbing with DJs Raymundo and friends. Every Sat, Escape, 23:00-05:00, €16 50 HURTZ X NEVER SAY DIE X MAJOR LEAGUE The heaviest wobbles at different speeds all under one roof. Three dubstep, bass and drum & bass promoters to be reckoned with join forces for this bassheavy event. Fri 3 Nov, Melkweg, 23:30, €23 RADIATE Anything can be expected from a night out at Radion, located in Amsterdam’s semi-industrial Southwestern fringe. Tonight’s going to be unusual as the focus will be on psytrance, one of those very few stand-alone dance subgenres that have barely cross pollinated with any other type of club music. DJs Jahbo and Scorb have been confirmed for tonight. Make sure you’re all set to expand your mind. Fri 3 Nov, Melkweg, 23:00-07:00, €10

BLIJBURG HERFSTBAL Get ready for winter by saying a final goodbye to summer on the beach. A mix of local bands and DJs provide the soundtrack for this typical laidback yet ecstatic Blijburg-style party night. Sat 11 Nov, Blijburg aan Zee, 22:00-05:00, €20 BONOBO (LIVE) After a recent DJ-tour, Ninja Tune’s biggest artist is back for a full live set with a band featuring a large range of classically trained artists, vocalists and more. This is set to be an immersive experience, even for non-triphop fans. Thu 16 Nov, AFAS Live, 18:30-23:00, €35 FIESTA MACUMBA DJs play Amsterdam’s most global mix of tunes. Expect to shake your bum to Latin, reggaeton, dancehall, salsa, reggae, afrobeat(s), merengue, cumbia, kuduro and much more. Fri 17 Nov, Melkweg, midnight-05:00, €12 INNOVATION IN THE DAM One of the biggest drum & bass events ever with a cracking line-up. Watch out: who plays on what day will be announced later so (hopefully for the organisers) many people will buy a three-day ticket. DJs Chase & Status, Hype, Dillinja, Dr Nutcracker, Benny Page, Blackley, Macky Gee, Ollie, Sub Zero and many others. Fri 24-Sun 26 Nov, Melkweg, 21:00, €98 for three days, various day ticket prices

OPENING WINTER CIRCUS You may think there’s not much to be celebrated about winter starting but that's just a matter of perspective. DJs Aron Friedman, Damian Lazarus, Benny Rodrigues, Patrice Baumel, Michel de Hey, Olivier JOOST VAN BELLEN SOLO Weiter, Eric de Man, Yousef, If you suspected that former Adam Port and others play Rauw head honcho and resident house, techno and minimal DJ had retired after sunsetting across both days. his successful clubbing concept, Sat 25-Sun 26 Nov, Thuishaven, tonight your gut feeling will be 13:00-23:00, €15 proven WRONG. The sleazy dance music icon just can’t help WELCOME TO THE FUTURE INDOOR himself, and he is set to take you on a five-hour long journey past A long running festival run by all corners of dirty-as-can-be Quazar’s Gert van Veen, the club music. producer of the very first Dutch Sat 4 Nov, Melkweg, house record ‘Pay the Piper’. midnight-05:00, €10 The slightly old-fashioned house and techno-heavy lineREWIND X HAPPY FEELINGS up includes Henrik Schwarz Party like you did on your fifth (live), The Advent (live), Benny birthday. Remember what that Rodrigues, JP Enfant, Sam looked like? Lots of balloons of Paganini, Juan Sanchez and course with possibly a wee bit the Man With No Shadow. Not of confetti. With 90s & 00s hits, a bad end time for a daytime house, disco, booze and sexy festival by the way. moves added. Sat 25 Nov, Warehouse Fri 10 Nov, De Marktkantine, Elementenstraat, 12:00-02:00, midnight-05:00, €20 €42.50 GARAGE NATION IN THE DAM With so many Brits in town, it makes sense to have club nights dedicated to UK club music. Artful Dodger, Sticky, Scott Garcia, DJ Cartier, and DJ Luck & MC Neat share the weekend's bill. Fri 10-Sat 11 Nov, Melkweg, 22:00-06:00, €30, €50 for both days

Choice clubbing

KONSTRUKT 5 YEAR ANNIVERSARY An excellent night of forward-thinking techno with Donato Dozzy – Italy’s great unpredictable producer of deep and trippy electronics – headlining. Dozzy’s name has been rising over the past few years and the former Panorama Bar resident is now widely considered one of the most important artists in the scene. Check out his classic acid track ‘Dol’ before heading down tonight. Also featured on this French-Italian line-up are Marc Antoni and Amandra. Fri 24 Nov, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, €16

VALHALLA FESTIVAL One of the most versatile winter festivals line-up wise, with various genres including future bass (Yellow Claw), hip-hop (The Flexican, FS Green), hard techno (Speedy J, Paula Temple, ROD) and more mainstream techno (Fritz Kalkbrenner, Kölsch (live), Benny Rodrigues, Luke Slater’s Planetary Assault Systems (live), Paco Osuna) all represented. Be ready for a night where getting lost is likely to be a theme, as this venue is a massive labyrinth with theatrical and fairytale-like themes. Sat 23 Dec, RAI, 22:3007:00, €52.50

are the first ones to be confirmed for this event alongside US vocalist Cardi B and England’s MC Mist. Fri 1 Dec, AFAS Live, 22:00-05:00, €40

ENCORE 5 YEAR ANNIVERSARY After countless successful weekly hiphop nights at Melkweg and four outdoor PANDEMONIUM summer festivals, doing a winter event at AFAS Live doesn’t seem A totally crazy super high like such a crazy move. Grab beats-per-minute fest. DJs this excellent opportunity to see Dano, Prophet, Placid K, what the hype in Dutch hiphop Bike, Cek, Ruffneck, Promo, is all about. Local super star Noize Suppressor, The DJ/ MCs Ronnie Flex and Sevn Alias Producer, Laurent Hô and many

AWAKENINGS NEW YEAR‘S EVE SPECIAL Awakenings enters the new year with slightly more mellow sounds than usual. Dekmantel’s minimalist techno specialist Makam opens with a three-hour set, followed by the immensely popular US techno producer Maceo Plex who kicks off at midnight. German duo PanPot are expected to keep it mellow as well, before Belgian’s biggest current techno star Amelie Lens closes. Check her recent track ‘Linger On’ and you’ll understand why her music is a perfect fit to fill the glorious Gashouder. Sun 31 Dec, Gashouder, 20:30-06:30, €63 others play hardcore, gabba, frenchcore and other aggressive genres across six terrifying rooms. Sat 2 Dec, Sporthallen Zuid, 21:30-07:00, €51 VAULT SESSIONS Techno night with Berghain resident Kobosil, Under Black Helmet, MPIA3 and VSC spinning dark beats. Sat 2 Dec, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, €20

TOM HARDING & JP An absolute Melkweg classic. Harding and JP have been playing the venue for the past 20 years – if not more. Expect classic hardtrance (not -style!) and plenty of older nostalgic ravers among the crowd. Also spinning are K90, Scot Project and Fausto. Fri 8 Dec, Melkweg, 21:0006:00, €24.50 SOUNDSYSTEM WEEKENDER WARM UP Amsterdam’s King Shiloh crew play roots reggae and dub tunes to warm you up for the main event of this mini festival tomorrow at Warehouse Elementenstraat. Fri 8 Dec, Melkweg, midnight-05:00, €19.50 (passepartout €24.50) SOUNDSYSTEM WEEKENDER MAIN NIGHT A friendly battle of Dutch Jamaica-style sound systems with Amsterdam’s King Shiloh and Rotterdam’s Masego both present, plus international artists Iration Steppas, Dubkasm, and Donovan Kingjay. Sat 9 Dec, Warehouse Elementenstraat, 20:00-08:00, €19.50 (passepartout €24.50) AMSTERDAM’S FINEST A cozy celebration of typically Dutch, aggressive rave subgenres early hardcore and oldschool with DJs Buzz Fuzz, Flamman & Abraxas (check out their hit ‘Rubb It In’ under their Fierce Ruling Diva moniker), Chosen Few (the mastermind behind one of hardcore’s biggest and most intense classics ‘Name of the DJ’), Champ-E-On and more. Sat 9 Dec, Undercurrent, 22:00-06:00, €30 EARLY NEW YEARS SPECIAL BY DAY Amsterdam’s longest running techno night (20 years!) fills the space twice in a day. This daytime edition is for ravers who don’t mind getting kicked out at 10PM. Is that you? Probably not, but here’s the line-up anyway: Luuk van Dijk, Eats Everything, Joris Voorn, Chris Liebing and Richie ‘Plastikman’ Hawtin. Sat 30 Dece, Gashouder, 12:00-22:00, €55 EARLY NEW YEARS SPECIAL BY NIGHT After about one hour of trashand people-sweeping (to clear the mess from the daytime rave), the floor should be free and clean to receive you, the nighttime raver. Expect dark and hard techno by DJs Bart Skils, Adam Beyer, Joseph Capriati, Tale of Us and Loco Dice. Sat 30 Dec, Gashouder, 23:15-08:00, €55 NEW YEAR’S EVE 2017-2018 Bombastic house and big room tunes with DJs Raymundo, Thom Bold, Carita La Nina, Quinten 909, Delivio Reavon, Jennifer Cooke and Jethro Galung plus MC Yanto and VJ Joury. Sun 31 Dec, Escape, 21:00-06:00, €65

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS,

1. GHOST IN SILENCE – RUMIKO HAGIWARA

40 X 30 CM.

AMBIGUITY, 2017, PENCIL ON PAPER, 2017, ACRYL OP CANVAS OP PANEEL, 204 X 205 CM.

TJEBBE BEEKMAN, AVONDROOD (AFTER GLOW),

RUMIKO HAGIWARA, DRAWING OF

EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS, VISIT AMSTERDAMART.COM.

Japanese artist Rumiko Hagiwara focuses on the daily misunderstandings that she encounters as an outsider in the Netherlands. For her exhibition Ghost in Silence, Hagiwara has created new work which highlights humorous situations, displaced from their Asian context, that ended up lost in translation. 24 NOV–27 JAN 2018 Van Zijll Langhout / Contemporary Art Brouwersgracht 161

2.TJEBBE BEEKMAN

Tjebbe Beekman paints large urban landscapes and interiors. The series of pictures featured in this exhibition depicts the studios of wellknown avant-garde artists, including some of their motifs and influences. 23 NOV–24 DEC Stigter Van Doesburg Elandsstraat 90

CANVAS, 189 X 150 CM 74.4 X 59.1 INCHES.

DANIEL RICHTER, DIREKTION NICHTS (2016), OIL ON

3. DANIEL RICHTER

For his third solo exhibition at Grimm, German artist Daniel Richter has produced a group of new paintings especially for the gallery space at Keizersgracht, a series of investigative images which investigate the clichés of art history, mass media and popular culture – transformed into his trademark quirky, narrative pictorial worlds. 24 NOV–6 JAN 2018 GRIMM Keizersgracht 241

(2017) COURTESY: LUMEN TRAVO GALLERY

YESIM AKDENIZ, THE DANCE OF THE LAST YVONNE DRÖGE WENDEL, WORK IN PROGRESS

PANTHER, 2016, OIL ON CANVAS, 120 X 140 CM

4. YESIM AKDENIZ

While Yesim Akdeniz‘ paintings are visually attractive and mesmerising, they are best described as conceptual, contemplating the relationship between symbols and their meaning. By isolating them from their original contexts, she creates a world that feels both familiar and alienating. 24 NOV–24 DEC Gerhard Hofland Bilderdijkstraat 165 C

5. MOMENTS IN A THING TANK – YVONNE DRÖGE WENDEL Yvonne Dröge Wendel sets up experimental encounters, to capture what it is that objects actually do. Her exhibition Moments in a Thing Tank is literally a tank that encourages visitors to get actively involved in thinking about the future of things. 23 NOV–20 JAN Lumen Travo Gallery Lijnbaansgracht 314

FILM FAVOURITES A GHOST STORY

For A Ghost Story director David Lowery once again joins forces with actors Rooney Mara and Casey Affleck (Ain’t Them Bodies Saints), although you will be hard pressed to recognize the latter. In this poignant drama Affleck plays the titular character: a ghost under a bedsheet. Directed by David Lowery Release 16 November

BATTLE OF THE SEXES

For a movie that’s set in the seventies, this sure-footed sports biopic is – sadly – still very current. In a time when female tennis pros get paid a fraction of what their male counterparts make, world-ranking tennis star Billie Jean King (Emma Stone) faces off with former champion Bobbie Riggs (Steve Carrell). Directed by Jonathan Dayton, Valerie Faris Release 23 November

DAVID LYNCH: THE ART LIFE

David Lynch: The Art of Life is no ordinary biopic. Then again, what did you expect from the master of strange? Also don’t miss the screenings of the digitally restored copy of Eraserhead, his feature film debut from 1977. Directed by John Nguyen, Rick Barnes, Olivia Neergaard-Holm Release 23 November

THE KILLING OF A SACRED DEER

A heavily bearded Colin Farrell reteams with The Lobster director Yorgos Lanthimos for another disquieting tale about the price we pay to keep on living. A kind cardiologist (Farrell) has befriended a lonely 15-year-old boy (Barry Keoghan), but all is not as it seems. With great roles for Nicole Kidman and Alicia Silverstone.

room together for 70 minutes? The answer is The Party by Sally Potter (Orlando, Yes, Ginger & Rosa), a surprisingly light-hearted tragicomic chamber piece... at least by Potter’s standards. Directed by Sally Potter Release 14 December

MOLLY’S GAME

What took him so long? With Molly’s Game, the true story about former Olympic skierturned-poker princess Molly Bloom (Jessica Chastain), writer Aaron Sorkin (The West Wing, The Social Network) finally makes his directing debut. He doesn’t disappoint. Idris Elba, Kevin Costner co-star. Directed by Aaron Sorkin Release 21 December

THE DISASTER ARTIST

Who would ever have thought that The Room, the best worst movie of this century, would someday spawn The Disaster Artist, one of the best makingof movies of all time? It’s a home run for James Franco, who gives a terrific turn as misunderstood star Tommy Wiseau and even shows us he does actually know how to direct a movie. Directed by James Franco Release 21 December

HAPPY END

When Austrian director Michael Haneke calls his movie Happy End, you really should know better than to take him at his word. There’s nothing happy – or kind – about the well-off family of ailing patriarch Georges Laurent (Jean-Louis Trintignant, last seen in Haneke’s Amour), whose big construction firm is now being led by his determined daughter, Anne (Isabelle Huppert). In French. Directed by Michael Haneke Release 16 November

Directed by Yorgos Lanthimos Release 30 November

WONDERSTRUCK

Director Todd Haynes (Far from Heaven, Carol) usually turns his lens on the repressed desires of adults. His latest movie Wonderstruck – based on the book by Brian Selznick – is an enchanting mystery adventure about two deaf kids who, fifty years apart, go looking for their idols in New York. Directed by Todd Haynes Release 12 December

THE PARTY

What do you get when you put top actors like Kristin Scott Thomas, Timothy Spall, Patricia Clarkson and Bruno Ganz into a

advert

FROM THE LIFE OF THE MARIONETTES 9 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

nov & dec 2017

FESTIVALS MUSEUM MARKET This design market on Amsterdam’s Museumplein offers fashion, accessories, textiles, homewares, jewellery, stationery and much more, all by local designers. When you’re done shopping, grab a bite of food and enjoy some live music or performances. 19 Nov & 17 Dec, Museumplein, museummarket.nl THE MAKER MARKET Whether you’re after natural cosmetics, stylish leather goods, handcrafted furniture or foodie delicacies, you can buy it directly from the makers at the Maker Market. This monthly event brings Amsterdam’s most innovative young brands together to sell their wares at De Hallen. 25 Nov, 16 & 23 Dec, De Hallen, dehallen-amsterdam.nl INTERNATIONAL STORYTELLING FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Tall tales, beautiful stories, old legends and touching recitals will all make an appearance at this year’s festival. The ISFA has built up a solid name in providing a stage for the best of Dutch and international storytellers, resulting in a fantastic selection of stories. 1-5 Nov, various locations, storytelling festival.nl DBUFF This film festival promises to provide an international platform for urban film lovers and the film industry. Alongside new releases, shorts and documentaries, look out for live shows, parties, workshops, interviews with filmmakers and plenty more. 1-5 Nov, Pathé Arena & Bijlmer Parktheater, dbuff.nl HOLLAND DANCE FESTIVAL @ THE GRAND An exclusive dance event where top cuisine and performance come together. The magnificent hotel will be the backdrop for this performance, in which a carefully selected group of international young dancers of Codarts Rotterdam will take you on a thrilling dance journey, while Michelin-star chef Andrès Delpeut serves up traditional dishes with international influences and unique twists. Wed 1-Sat 4 Nov, Sofitel Legend the Grand, holland-dance.com AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Calling all aspiring art collectors! As the name of this event suggests, getting your hands on a piece of art no longer has to break the bank: contemporary art is on sale for between a hundred and a few thousand euros. With thousands of paintings, original prints, photographs and sculptures on show, first-time buyers can have a browse around while seasoned collectors can seek out hot new artists. 2-5 Nov, Kromhouthal, affordableartfair.com

SIERAAD ART FAIR The only platform in the Netherlands where professional contemporary jewellery designers from home and abroad can sell their work directly to the public. 9-12 Nov, Westergasfabriek, sieraadartfair.com SUPER-SONIC JAZZ FESTIVAL This sonically super festival features a line-up of musicians who combine jazz with musical styles that don’t '‘traditionally’ gel with the genre, including electronic, classical, hip-hop and traditional African music – just to name a few. Needless to say, if you’re into jazz, this is the festival for you. If you’re not, you’ll still find something to bop along to. 9-19 Nov, various locations, facebook.com/SuperSonicJazz DANCING ON THE EDGE This celebration of Middle Eastern and North African arts and culture takes over multiple venues in Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Utrecht every two years, offering lectures, meetings and workshops in addition to a host of live performances. 10-14 Nov, Podium Mozaiek & Frascati, dancingontheedge.nl TURN ON THE LIGHTS With Turn on the Lights, Amsterdam's luxury department store de Bijenkorf opens the festive season in brilliant spectacle and festive cheer. Head along for a magical theatrical show at Dam Square, as well as the illumination of hundreds of thousands of energy-efficient LED lights on the façade of the majestic de Bijenkorf building! 16 Nov, Dam Square, debijenkorf.nl PAN AMSTERDAM Modern-day art fair that guarantees surprise, variety and quality, presenting work ranging from classical antiquities and Old Masters to contemporary photography and art. 19-26 Nov, RAI Amsterdam, pan.nl AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND Amsterdam Art Weekend returns to the city, offering art enthusiasts the chance to delve into Amsterdam’s vibrant contemporary art scene to discover (and get their hands on) work by talented young artists. The event typically offers a programme of more than 100 exhibitions in art venues throughout the city, plus performances, screenings, debates and more. 23-26 Nov, various locations, amsterdamart.com ANTIQUE, VINTAGE, ART & DESIGN FAIR Enjoy a fantastic shopping experience in the atmospheric Posthoornkerk. Some 35 sellers will be participating in the

Choice festivals

IDFA: INTERNATIONAL DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Every November, IDFA treats documentary lovers to the latest and greatest domestic and international arrivals from the documentary film world. No other festival brings together so many great films, devoted fans and talented film-makers in one place, making IDFA one of the world‘s leading documentary film festivals. Celebrate 30 years of IDFA by grabbing a programme and checking out the wide variety of themes and special events lined up this year. 15-26 Nov, various l ocations, idfa.nl

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL Brighten up your winter by exploring the latest edition of the Amsterdam Light Festival. From 17:00 to 23:00 each night, light art will bring new colour, technological innovation and artistic flair to iconic spots throughout the city centre. To make the most of these works, take to the water for a dedicated festival cruise. From 14 December, a special route also opens up in the Marineterrein,with 20 artworks best explored on foot. 30 Nov-21 Jan, various locations, amsterdamlightfestival.com

Antique, Vintage, Art & Design Fair, offering up a variety of rare, beautiful and occasionally unusual wares. 24-26 Nov, Posthoornkerk, stadsherstel.nl/cultuuragenda

INTERNATIONAL QUEER AND MIGRANT FILM FESTIVAL This film festival looks at sexual diversity in migrant populations around the world. Take in world premieres and special film events, delve into sociology and the LGBT scene, learn more about groups who are underrepresented. 6-10 Dec, De Balie & various locations, iqmf.nl

WELCOME TO THE FUTURE INDOOR DAY FESTIVAL A major summer festival in the Amsterdam Area, Welcome to the Future is ready to help you warm up in winter with a spectacular indoor edition. Ahead of all the Christmas and New Year chaos, a number of stages and a top-quality lineup will satisfy the most serious fans of electronic dance music. 25 Nov, Warehouse Elementenstraat, welcometothefuture.nl WINTERVILLAGE AMSTELVEEN Amstelveen's town square hosts an atmospheric Christmas market with an ice skating rink and 60 stalls selling winter food, drinks and Christmas gifts. 29 Nov-7 Jan, Stadsplein (Amstelveen), wintervillageamstelveen.nl MEESTERLIJK Annual event allowing product, fashion and food designers, craftspeople and diverse artists to share their passion for design and craftsmanship with the public. Throughout the three days of the event, established masters will stand alongside talented novices. Visitors can buy objects directly from the participatin g artists, or simply pick their brains about their trade. 1-3 Dec, Westergasfabriek, meesterlijk.nu

MASTERS OF LXRY As part of this exclusive brand fair, art, interior design, gastronomy, jewellery, yachts, cars, watches and other covetable items will be on show at beautifully designed stands. 8-11 Dec, RAI Amsterdam, lxry.nl FUNKY XMAS MARKET In December, the Sunday Market – an art, fashion and design market at Westergasfabriek – gets funky and festive! The two main editions in December include a Sinterklaas market and Christmas market, though there's also a bonus edition at Nieuwmarkt on 29 December. 3 & 10 Dec, Westergasfabriek, sundaymarket.nl WINTER NIGHTS ON THE AMSTEL The latest edition of the popular chamber music festival takes place in Amsterdam's Hermitage Museum. Experience a wealth of Russian chamber music during this grand classical music festival. 16-19 Dec, Hermitage Amsterdam, winteravondenaandeamstel.nl

ICE* VILLAGE AMSTERDAM Taking place next to the ice rink at Museumplein, this festive village transforms the iconic square into a magical festive wonderland. The seasonal spirit is completed by Christmas markets, live entertainment and an abundance of traditional Dutch Christmas food and drinks – all set against the stunning backdrop of the Rijksmuseum. 20-30 Dec, Museumplein, iceamsterdam.nl WINTERPARADE The special winter version of the summer theatrical festival offers up plenty of language-no-problem live acts and performances. The WinterParade invites guests to take their seats at a 120-metre long table for a festive menu and stacks of dazzling entertainment between the wining and dining. 21-30 Dec, Zuiderkerk, tafelvandeidee.nl AMSTERDAMSCHE KERSTMARKT Featuring small, independent market stalls filled with special gifts and delicious food, this folky event is set to be a funfilled day of entertainment, authentic produce and nostalgic Christmas cheer amidst the arty, industrial surroundings of Amsterdam Noord. 22 & 23 Dec, Kromhouthal, amsterdamsche-kerstmarkt. nl TANGOTRAIN Get a dose of fiery tango passion at one of the many TangoTrain dance performances and workshops around Amsterdam. It doesn't just take two to tango: whether you’re there to participate or just watch, this event has something for everyone. 26 Dec-1 Jan, various locations, tangotrain.com CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM The brainchild of Dutch cellist Ella van Poucke and her brother, pianist Nicolas van Poucke, the festival once again unites international musicians to celebrate the beauty of chamber music being performed in one of Amsterdam's beautiful churches. 30 & 31 Dec, Amstelkerk, kamermuziekfestivalamsterdam.com MUSEUMNACHT AMSTERDAM Each November, more than 50 museums in Amsterdam open their doors from 19:00 to 02:00. Look out for special events including workshops, concerts, special tours and performances as well as tasty food and drinks to help keep your energy levels up. Soak up the culture, try something new, and be sure to buy tickets in advance (Dutch bank account required). 4 Nov, various locations, museumnacht. amsterdam

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month. Club Lite, garboforwomen.nl GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie. The reception – with a welcome drink – usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathé website for movie and time. pathe.nl/event/gaynight HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Horsemen and Knights is the big willy gay play and cruise party, taking place in the afternoon every third Sunday of the month. Dress code: naked or underwear. Doors open 15:00-16:00 Eagle, horsemen.nl MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas. Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only. NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15 SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is 'No Towel Night' (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00. Every Tue, Sauna NZ, saunanieuwezijds.nl (Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam. The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted. Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited. Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, 22:00-05:00, €10

ONE-OFF EVENTS FUN HOUSE Popular gay dance parties in Westerunie at the Westergasfabriek, an old industrial factory hall. The music is a little more vocal than the Rapido parties. Expect dancers in crazy costumes and a busy party. Sat 18 Nov, 23 Dec WesterUnie, clubrapido.com

SPELLBOUND Queer Underground Dance Party with Performances, DJs, VJs, Video, Chill Out Techno, Electro, House, Disco, Dub....etc.. Sat 11 Nov, OCCII spellbound-amsterdam.nl FLIRTATION One of the projects initiated by 'Letsbeopen', this women-only party has all the trimmings of a fabulous girls' night out: more than a thousand open-minded women from different cultures, a beautiful club, top female DJs, and a tagline that says it all: Guilty Pleasures. Sat 11 Nov, Panama flirtation.nl WASTELAND This legendary fetish party may be out of the city bounds, but it's well worth hopping on the special bus service. Europe’s most notorious straight / gay mixed fetish fantasy extravaganza welcomes people from all over the globe to the North Sea Venue in a roller-coaster ride for the pervy mind. Three dance floors, 6 performance stages, a lounge, a relax room, a fully equipped dungeon... – need we say more? Please note Wasteland has a very strict dress code - The decision of the Bitch is final! Leather, latex, plastic, uniforms, Fetish Lolita, Burlesque, Metal, Cross Dress, Schoolgirl/boy, Medical, Baroque, body art, fetish Glam. Sat 25 Nov, Northsea Venue Hemkade 48, Zaandam wasteland.nl BEAR NECESSITY Bear Necessity started as a bear party, but has become more a general gay dance party for 'real men'. This is the special New Year edition. Sat 30 Dec, Panama bear-necessity.eu ADDRESSES Club Air Amstelstraat 16 www.clubair.nl Akhnaton Nieuwezijdskolk 25-27 akhnaton.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eagle Warmoesstraat 90 theeagleamsterdam.com Club Lite Jan van Galenstraat 24 clublite.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 marktkantine.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.n OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 occii.org Panama Oostelijke Handelskade 4 panama.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl

SPORTS EVENTS

Highlight sport

FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, Amsterdam’s skating extravaganza. Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own. Check the website for route updates and news each week. every Fri, Vondelpark Pavilion, fridaynightskate.com AJAX They’re Amsterdam’s top football club, known around the world for their distinctive red-and-white shirt and for their legacy of Dutch and European victories. The club have five home matches coming up before the winter break: FC Utrecht (5 Nov); Roda JC (26 Nov); PSV (10 Dec); Excelsior (14 Dec); Willem II (24 Nov). Nov & Dec, Amsterdam ArenA, ajax.nl FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run. 10 Nov & 8 Dec, Olympic Stadium, fridaynightrun.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN If you’re serious about your ice skating, the Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. As well as an indoor arena, there’s a 400-metre outdoor track, the rink is home to the city’s ice hockey team the Amstel Tijgers, or take part in a curling session. Plus there’s a fever burning every Saturday night for the weekly disco skating sessions. Nov & Dec, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, jaapeden.nl APOLLO BASKETBALL Catch Amsterdam’s premier basketball team at the Apollo Hall in Amsterdam Zuid. Upcoming home ties against other Dutch teams take place on 18 Nov, 2 Dec, 9 Dec, 14 Dec and 23 Dec. Nov & Dec, Apollohal, apollobasketball.nl OLYMPISCH STADIONLOOP Organised by the Phanos athletics association, the Stadionloop in the Zuid District of the city is the final event in the Rondje Mokum (Amsterdam Circuit) programme of running competitions. Alongside the professional 10km event, there’s also a 5km and 10km event for recreational runners, all starting and finishing at Amsterdam’s famous Olympic Stadium. And for younger runners under 13 years old, there’s a special 1km event. 12 Nov, Olympic Stadium, olympischstadionloop.nl

ICE*AMSTERDAM Embrace the season as ICE*Amsterdam presents a unique ice skating experience on Amsterdam‘s Museumplein, with the Rijksmuseum as a phenomenal backdrop! Whether you‘re young or old, a twirling ice dancer or a first-timer staying upright by willpower alone, you‘ll love the atmosphere of this rink, as tourists, couples, friends and families mix together. Stop off for skating lessons, take part in group ice games, or dare to try the human curling (or just regular curling). from 18 Nov, Museumplein, iceamsterdam.nl

MOVEMBER RUN AMSTERDAM Proudly perform your slowest 5km run of the season, as that free-flowing moustache you’ve grown for Movember drags you back in the winter wind! This event’s not just for men though: ladies can participate as well, so join the cause and race through Amsterdam’s Vondelpark. 25 Nov, Vondelpark, movemberrun.nl TANGOTRAIN Get a dose of fiery tango passion at one of the many TangoTrain dance performances and workshops around Amsterdam. It doesn’t just take two to tango: whether you’re there to participate or just watch, this event has something for everyone. 26 Dec-1 Jan, various locations, tangotrain.com

arena spectacle, putting aside competition for the occasion. Dutch stars like Sanne Wevers and Epke Zonderland will be dazzling on the floor and in the air, while international entertainment acts – such as the gravity-defying Austrian gymnast group Zurcaroh – showcase what they do best. 29 Dec, Ziggo Dome, gymgala.nl advert

DISNEY ON ICE 2017 Disney on Ice celebrates four of its most beloved fantastical worlds in this new show: Cars, The Little Mermaid, Toy Story and Frozen. Though narration (and some of the songs will be in Dutch), young kids will be hypnotised as Disney’s classic characters come to life on the ice. 28-30 Dec, RAI Amsterdam, disneyonice.nl UNIVÉ GYM GALA A Touch of Gold promises an eclectic mix of sport and entertainment. One hundred top stars of the international gymnastics and acrobatics scene come together for an

THE MAIDS

23, 30 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

nov & dec 2017

KIDS & FAMILY VENUES HET FIEPTHEATER A celebration of Fiep Westendorp, the Dutch illustrator renowned for much-loved creations such as ‘Jip en Janneke’. This small theatre in the attic of the Jewish Historical Museum’s Children’s Museum will bring some of her characters to life via animation, film and music. until Dec, Jewish Historical Museum, 100jaarfiepwestendorp.nl ‘BRUSHES’ AWARD WINNERS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM The Rijksmuseum’s annual exhibition of original prints by the winners of the ‘Pensel-

as an indoor arena, there’s a 400-metre outdoor track, the rink is home to the city’s ice hockey team the Amstel Tijgers, or take part in a curling session. Plus there’s a fever burning every Saturday night for the weekly disco skating. Nov & Dec, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, jaapeden.nl LIFE IN THE UNIVERSE Join an expedition to the farthest corners of the universe. Discover stars that are many billions of years old, and planets that may or may not be able to support life. ongoing, NEMO Science Museum, nemosciencemuseum.nl SPACEXPERIENCE LIVE Send your kids’ imagination

Highlight kids

ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS Every November, Sinterklaas, the Netherlands’ own version of Father Christmas, travels from his home in Spain to the Netherlands, bringing presents and special treats for the children. This year‘s festivities include a boat parade along the Amstel (ending at the National Maritime Museum), followed by a horse parade through the city centre (there‘s a new route this year, heading to Dam Square via Waterlooplein and Rembrandtplein). Children line the route to wave at Sint and his helpers, as traditional sweets rain down upon them. 19 Nov, Amsterdam city centre, sintinamsterdam.nl en’ (Brushes), the ‘Paletten’ (Palettes) and the ‘Vlag en Wimpels’ (Flag and Pennants) awards. These awards honour the most beautifully illustrated children's books of the year. Until 11 Feb, Rijksmuseum HET NEDERLANDS MARIONETTENTHEATER A charming marionette theatre with performances for children aged 4 to 10. Puppets bring magical tales like Rumpelstiltskin, Pinocchio and The Magic Violin to life. Productions are in Dutch but the music and visuals ensure that language is no barrier. various dates Nov & Dec, Het Nederlands Marionettentheater, nederlandsmarionettentheater.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN The Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city’s main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. As well

into space at this arena spectacular starring Dutch astronaut André Kuipers. It pairs visual entertainment with scientific knowledge aimed at all ages. The performances take place in Dutch. 11 Nov, Ziggo Dome, spacexperience.nl PETER AND THE WOLF Anyone who can play an instrument – and anyone who’d like to watch – is invited to join maestro Jules van Hessen in celebrating the Jewish Historical Museum's Children Museum's 10th anniversary. The maestro will conduct a special performance of Prokofiev’s ‘Peter and the Wolf ’ with young guest star Maxim Heijmerink. 19 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, jhm.nl WINTERVILLAGE AMSTELVEEN Amstelveen’s town square hosts an atmospheric

ADRESSES Christmas market with an ice skating rink and 60 stalls selling winter food, drinks and Christmas gifts. 29 Nov-7 Jan, Stadsplein (Amstelveen), wintervillageamstelveen.nl LELYSTAD CHRISTMAS MARKET Taking place in a nature park just outside Lelystad, the Christmas Market blends a traditional European market with cosy fire pits, a live nativity, Christmas lights a nd a festive trail through the park. With over 60 stalls and plenty of local produce on offer, you’ll be sure to find some festive foodie gifts for all tastes. 16 Dec, Natuurpark Lelystad, flevo-landschap.nl ICE* VILLAGE AMSTERDAM This festive village transforms the iconic Museumplein into a magical festive wonderland. The seasonal spirit is completed by Christmas markets, live entertainment and an abundance of traditional Dutch Christmas food and drinks. 20-30 Dec, Museumplein, iceamsterdam.nl WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus is one of the most acclaimed circus festivals in the world and features countless top stars of the ring. 21 Dec-7 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices, carre.nl THE CHRISTMAS STORY Introduce your young ones to the Christmas Story at this beautiful performance by the youths of Nieuw Vocaal Amsterdam and the professional Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra. Narration will be in Dutch. 22-24 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, muziekgebouw.nl THE CHRISTMAS SHOW – A CHRISTMAS CAROL Experience the magic of Christmas in a stage show dedicated to all things merry. This musical take on A Christmas Carol features beautiful scenery, a famous Dutch cast and a host of your favourite Christmas songs, making it a show to remember for all ages. Please note: Dutch will be the primary language in these shows but young ones will still enjoy the Christmas spectacle! 23 & 24 Dec, Ziggo Dome, christmasshow.nl DISNEY ON ICE 2017 Disney on Ice celebrates four of its most beloved fantastical worlds in this new show: Cars, The Little Mermaid, Toy Story and Frozen. Though narration (and some of the songs will be in Dutch), young kids will be hypnotised as Disney's classic characters come to life on the ice. 28-30 Dec, RAI Amsterdam, disneyonice.nl

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 arcam.nl Beurs van Berlage Damrak 243 beursvanberlage.com Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 tassenmuseum.nl Cobra Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen cobra-museum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61A verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 foam.org Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 jhm.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 hermitage.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen jvdtogt.nl De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square nieuwekerk.nl Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23 oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl National Maritime Museum Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 tropenmuseum.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 vangoghmuseum.nl Museum van Loon Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl STAGE AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 boomchicago.nl Comedy Cafe 89, IJdok comedycafe.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 crea.uva.nl De Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Paleis van de Weemoed Oudezijds Voorburgwal 15 paleis-van-de-weemoed.nl Paradiso

Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl RAI Europaplein rai.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 theaterbellevue.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 ziggodome.nl MUSIC AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 bitterzoet.com The Box Mekongweg 5 the-box.events Conservatorium van Amsterdam Oosterdokskade 151 conservatoriumvanamsterdam.nl De Duif Prinsengracht 756 deduif.net De Hallen Hannie Dankbaarpassage 47 dehallen-amsterdam.nl Escape Rembrandtplein 11 escape.nl Gashouder Westergasfabriek, Klönneplein westergasfabriek.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 marktkantine.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 muziekgebouw.nl NedPhO-Koepel Batjanstraat 3 orkest.nl Oosterkerk Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 1 oosterkerk-amsterdam.nl Het Orgelpark Gerard Brandtstraat 26 orgelpark.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Q Factory Atlantisplein 1 q-factory-amsterdam.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 carre.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 tolhuistuin.nl Thuishaven Contactweg 68 thuishaven.nl Undercurrent Papaverweg 265 undercurrent.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y ziggodome.nl

LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

Dutch National Ballet

MATA HARI Iconic masterpiece returns to stage – 14 October – 3 November

Dutch National Opera

EINE FLORENTINISCHE TRAGÖDIE + GIANNI SCHICCHI Alexander von Zemlinsky/ Giacomo Puccini – 11 - 28 November

Dutch National Opera

LA BOHÈME Giacomo Puccini – 1 – 29 December

Dutch National Ballet

THE SLEEPING BEAUTY Jewel in the crown – 9 December – 1 January

Free lunch concerts Every Tuesday – Guided tours Every Saturday

operaballet.nl

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

‘DE WAAG OP DE NIEUWMARKT’, 1781 Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

KIJK AMSTERDAM 1700-1800 Few cities as old as Amsterdam have managed to preserve and honour their architecture just as beautifully as this exhibition demonstrates. The colourful, vibrant collection of 18th-century drawings (compiled in collaboration with the Royal Antiquarian Society, the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam Museum and Teylers Museum) shows the cobbled streets, canals, churches and crooked houses we can still admire today while strolling through the city: it is all Amsterdam, undeniably, especially the famous landmarks, such as this picture of De Waag which still reigns over Nieuwmarkt. It is the details that speak of another time: the outfits, the barges and handcarts, the horses or even the chicken on the street. In addition to the chance to delve into the Amsterdam of the past, Kijk Amsterdam (View Amsterdam) also offers an extensive programme of activities, such as city walks and concerts. UNTIL 14 JANUARY 2018

amsterdam.nl/stadsarchief

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VISIT HISTORICAL HOLLAND

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CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

beyond amsterdam

‘HAVE A HEART THAT NEVER HARDENS, AND A TEMPER THAT NEVER TIRES, AND A TOUCH THAT NEVER HURTS.’ CHARLES DICKENS

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

DICKENS FESTIVAL For two days, the 19th-century world of Charles Dickens comes to life in the historic centre of Deventer. Hundreds of characters from his famous books can be found strolling around the centre, from Scrooge to Oliver Twist and from Mr. Pickwick to the Christmas Carol Singers – and of course, all the orphans, drunkards, clerks and posh gentlemen. The Great Church, which has a great indoor terrace for a warm drink and a holiday snack, is also home to an indoor and outdoor Christmas market which features more than 75 different stalls selling Christmas decorations, toys, clothes and handicrafts. 16-17 DECEMBER Deventer dickensfestijn.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Deventer from Amsterdam Central every hour. Travel time: 75 minutes

ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL With over 100,000 visitors, the Dutch Ice Sculpture Festival has become the Netherlands’ biggest winter event. More than 40 of the world’s best ice sculptors put together a spectacular exhibition using special effects, and as much as 275,000kg of ice to create these unique works of art. The theme for 2017 is ‘World-Famous Stories’, so expect to see Alice in a frozen Wonderland, and Gulliver traipsing through snow. FROM 23 DECEMBER Ijsselhallen, Rieteweg 4, Zwolle ijsbeelden.nl GETTING THERE: Take a direct train to Zwolle from Amsterdam Central, then hop on one of the many buses that go to the IJsselhallen. Travel time: 90 minutes

GLOW EINDHOVEN GLOW is a light and colour festival held every year in Eindhoven, featuring dazzling installations from local and international artists and designers. The theme for the 2017 edition is ‘The Source’, playing on the idea that Eindhoven, home to the Phillips bulb factory since 1891, is a source of light for the entire world. The 6km route throughout the city is aglow with light shows, special museum events and the presentation of new artists‘ creations. 11-18 NOVEMBER Eindhoven gloweindhoven.nl

GETTING THERE: Hop on a train from Amsterdam Central to Eindhoven. Travel time: 70-80 minutes

‘IN ORDER FOR THE LIGHT TO SHINE SO BRIGHTLY, THE DARKNESS MUST BE PRESENT.‘

‘WE CANNOT SPEAK OTHER THAN BY OUR PAINTINGS.‘ VINCENT VAN GOGH

FRANCIS BACON

CROSSING BORDER

DORDRECHT CHRISTMAS MARKET With over 200 stalls laden with foods, gifts and Christmas decorations, this is the largest Christmas market in the Netherlands. A 2.5km stroll through the city and along the illuminated Dordrecht harbour, it’s one of the most festive Christmas markets as well, peppered by family attractions such as merry-go-rounds and petting zoos, as well as performance stages that delight visitors with a flurry of carols and holiday songs. 15-17 DECEMBER Dordrecht kerstmarktdordrecht.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Dordrecht from Amsterdam Central several times per hour, but it’s actually faster to hop on an Intercity Direct to Rotterdam and switch there. Travel time: 60 minutes

LOVING VINCENT – THE EXHIBITION The Noordbrabants Museum is showing Loving Vincent – The Exhibition until 28 January 2018. Loving Vincent is the first fully painted animated movie, which is based on 120 paintings by Van Gogh. For this film, 125 artists brought the famous painter to life with innumerable strokes of their paintbrushes. Countless images were painted in this way, which are shown on screen during the 94-minute movie. The 70 most beautiful images will be on display at the exhibition, offering a unique glimpse behind the screens of this remarkable animation. UNTIL 28 JANUARY 2018 Het Noordbrabants Museum, Verwersstraat 41, 's-Hertogenbosch hetnoordbrabantsmuseum.nl

GETTING THERE: Fom Amsterdam Central, take a train to ’s-Hertogenbosch, then catch bus 11 to Zuidwal. Travel time: approximately 75 minutes

Crossing Border is one of Europe’s main international literature and music festivals where film and the visual arts are also invited. For several days writers, poets, musicians, filmmakers and artists will reign over The Hague’s cultural centre, sometimes even sharing the spotlight. Graphic novels are bestowed a special place with a unique preview of Scratches II, featuring work by Dutch, Flemish and international comics; and the European Literature Prize will be awarded on 2 November. 2-4 NOVEMBER Various locations in Den Haag crossingborder.nl

GETTING THERE: There are several trains to Den Haag Central from Amsterdam Central every hour. Travel time: 45-50 minutes

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

EL VANNEMÉ, 23, FILM STUDENT FROM SOUTH AFRICA ‘We came here for my mother’s 50th birthday, and a fun way we found to discover the city is to participate in a treasure hunt. They send you places where you get to see the life of the city, learn about its history, and even stop for a beer on the way. It’s called Gratis Speurtocht, google it!’

GUDBJORG REYNISDOTTIR, 31, REVENUE MANAGER FROM ICELAND ‘The Rijksmuseum is a must-see. So much culture and history, it makes you feel like you’ve walked through a time machine. It’s worth the price and the wait (unless you get an online ticket to cheat the queue!)

PATRICK ADIL BELMEHDI, 18, FROM SPAIN ‘I think if you’re visiting the Netherlands, you should see some windmills. If you don’t want to go all the way to Zaandam or tour the region near Volendam, there’s a really cool one at the southern end of Amstelpark.’

MAHMOOD KURD, 19, MECHANIC, AND ALI STAR, 18, CHEF, FROM LONDON

RICCARDO ALFONS, 32, FLIGHT ATTENDANT FROM AMSTERDAM

‘This is a chill city, so the best way to really get into its atmosphere is to walk around, even far out of the centre. And after a long day of exploring, go to the Bulldog coffeehop!’

‘I’m not a visitor but I travel back and forth a lot because of my job. So I can give you an insider’s tip: the best place to get ramen in the city is at Fou Fow Elandsgracht. It’s my favourite Asian spot.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Het Zomerpaleis: Saskia Franken, Martijn Blokland deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Lauren Comiteau, Rhys Elliott, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Catalina Iorga, Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Imke Walenberg listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Sarah Gehrke, Karl Baz & Rhys Elliott), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Vince, Comichouse advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions a-magservice@iamsterdam.com didn‘t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing

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Zeng Fanzhi, Van Gogh III, 2017

20.10.2017_ 25.02.2018 Contemporary Chinese artist Zeng Fanzhi (b. 1964) is fascinated by Vincent van Gogh. In this intimate presentation, Zeng Fanzhi presents existing and new work inspired by Van Gogh. Four of the ďŹ ve captivating paintings were created especially for this presentation. Zeng Fanzhi | Van Gogh is a world ďŹ rst, now on display at the Van Gogh Museum. Partners of the museum

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