A-Mag July/Aug 2017 by amsterdam&partners

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION JULY & AUGUST 2017

LIFE’S A BEACH! AMSTERDAM’S BEST BEACHES, SANDY HOTSPOTS, SEAFRONT BARS AND SUMMER FESTIVALS Vol 5 NO 4 €3.50

Vincent van Gogh, Self-Portrait with Grey Felt Hat, 1887. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 5 N0 4 JUL & AUG 2017

BEACH BUMMIN'

P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE If you think Amsterdam and pina coladas don’t mix, we have good news for you: the city is chock-full of awesome urban beaches, and a quick train hop away from the gorgeous North Sea coast, which boasts a fabulous party life.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The summer festivals are in full swing, and Gay Pride is right around the corner with all its crazy parties and dazzling costumes – and much, much more.

P.35 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch strolls around the Amsterdamse Bos, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.70 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.53 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief, A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

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CONTENTS

‘Sous les pavés, la plage!’ (‘under the pavement lies the beach’) as an expression is perhaps the main legacy from the 1968 student revolt in Paris. Forgetting for a moment the uglier connotation (the students intended the pavement to be thrown at the police), I’ve always loved the expression for its imaginative force. Up there with ‘the sky is the limit’ and ‘the glass is half full’. But lately, since Amsterdam is under such rigorous reconstruction, it’s become less of a metaphor and more of a reality: parts of the city have been turned into temporary beaches. Last spring when my street was a work-in-progress, the local bar decided to build a terrace with deckchairs and parasols, immediately after workers removed the paving stones. Just as bookstore Scheltema did when the Rokin – near the Dam Square – was skinned for reconstruction. It makes you smile at the ingenuity of us city folks, with our little gable-gardens, balconies and three-metre-square rooftop terraces. Some of the ‘reconstruction beaches’ have survived the development stage and live on. Blijburg aan Zee in Ijburg, for example, was once nothing more than a pit. Pllek is basically what was left over when the NDSM shipyard moved out, with a couple of shipping containers thrown on top. And the list goes on. Amsterdam now has far more beaches than you could visit, given that the real beaches which actually border the sea, such as Zandvoort and IJmuiden, are so close that you wouldn’t even know they are technically, administratively no part of the City of Amsterdam. Time to sort things out. To spare you the hassle – and embarrassment – of ending up on the wrong stretch of sand, we bring you a survey of Amsterdam’s urban and seaside beaches (pages 10-17). Which reveals that some beaches aren’t beaches at all, but rather lawns, or just restaurants on a lakefront. So don’t take your beaches too seriously, but do enjoy the urban beach life.

jul & aug 2017

OPENING

What’s new?

‘AMSTERDAM HAS A GREAT LINE IN TALL, LEAN, SLIGHTLY WEATHERED OLDER LADIES WITH PILED UP GREY HAIR AND BRIGHT DRESSES, OVERTAKING YOU WITH A DING ON THEIR BELL.’

(in town)

All the latest cultural news, plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

THE TIMES JOURNALIST JANICE TURNER GETS IN LANE

©ARTIS, RONALD VAN WEEREN

text Mark Smith

GRIN AND SHARE IT A graphic designer has been cheering up Golden Age Amsterdam, one Old Master at a time, with the help of his smartphone. Londoner Olly Gibbs, 27, had the idea of turning frowns upside down on ‘miserable’ Dutch paintings in the Rijksmuseum while on a romantic break with his girlfriend. The resulting images, which include a grinning version of Rembrandt’s iconic self-portrait, were created on FaceApp and quickly went viral after Gibbs posted them to Twitter.

Here’s some heartening news from the animal kingdom, just in time for Amsterdam Gay Pride. Two gay male vultures at the city’s Artis Zoo have successfully hatched an egg together. The duo, who are in a long-term relationship (well, two years ain’t bad), adopted the stray egg after it was abandoned by its former parents. Having taken turns to sit on the egg until it hatched, they are now fulfilling their parental responsibilities with aplomb by feeding the hatchling via regurgitation. This isn’t the first time Artis has hit the headlines for its queer critters: the zoo has been home to besotted gay penguins in the past, and the institution hosts occasional Animal Pride tours. artis.nl

ONE L. OF A TRIP Amsterdam is getting ready for a red carpet moment to remember this summer, as it co-stars with Salma Hayek and Samuel L. Jackson in a Hollywood blockbuster. August sees the cinema release of The Hitman’s Bodyguard, an action-packed comedy spoof of the 1992 film, The Bodyguard. In the new movie, the world’s top protection agent (played by Ryan Reynolds) is called upon to guard the life of his mortal enemy, one of the world’s most notorious hitmen (Jackson) as he journeys from London to testify at the International Court of Justice in the Hague. Along the way, the duo take to the waters of the Amsterdam canals for some spectacular stunts as they attempt to evade assassination. Cast and crew made quite a splash when they filmed high-speed chases around town last year.

DO YOU READ ME? The writing’s on the wall for the Toneelgroep Amsterdam – or at least it will be throughout the month of August, when all performances by the renowned theatre company are accompanied by English surtitles. For those of us whose grasp of Dutch ain’t up to much, it’s a chance to see classic TGA repertoire including the adaptation of Belgian novelist Hugo Claus’ book The Year of the Lobster, and director Simon Stone’s radical adaptation of the Greek tragedy Medea. For the rest of the year, performances will be surtitled on Thursdays as usual. Interestingly, visitors who are dependent on the aid of surtitles are advised to sit towards the back of the audience so that they can simultaneously view the full stage and the text as they read. tga.nl

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

‘WE MAY HAVE ALL COME ON DIFFERENT SHIPS, BUT WE’RE IN THE SAME BOAT NOW.’

‘AMSTERDAM IS A POCKETSIZED METROPOLIS: IT’S AMBITIOUS, INFORMAL AND BEAUTIFUL.’

COOL IDEA If you can’t stand the heat this summer, you might want to get into the kitchen. Chef Moshik Roth, whose Michelin star-laden restaurant &Samhoud Places is one of the hottest culinary tickets in town, has developed a range of supermarket ice lollies naturally flavoured with organic juice combinations such as carrot-and-orange. The best bit? A pack of four will leave you with change from €3.

THE MARTIN LUTHER KING QUOTE THAT INSPIRED ARTIST SARAH VAN SONSBEECK’S REFUGEE-THEMED INSTALLATION AT THE OUDE KERK

JAMES VEENHOFF OF CREATIVE STRATEGY FIRM FRONTEER

WEI COOL Strike a light! It has been announced Chinese art superstar Ai Weiwei will make a very special debut at this year’s Amsterdam Light Festival, contributing a 7.5km work entitled ‘Red Line’ that will connect all of the other artworks on display throughout the city’s waterways. According to curator Lennart Booij, the aim of the piece is ‘to positively stimulate visitors to think about what unites people and what role light plays in this’. amsterdamlightfestival.nl

IN THE FRAME Those getting to grips with Dutch can now combine mastering the language with dipping a toe in the Amsterdam art scene, thanks to a new programme of bespoke museum tours called Stad en Taal (‘city and language’). ‘We’ve spent months trying out the tour and invited Dutch teachers to help us shape the students’ experience,’ Sander Daams from the Rijksmuseum’s education department told DutchNews.nl of the initiative. Other institutions offering tours in simplified Dutch include the photographic trove Foam and the Tropenmuseum. amsterdam.nl

jul & aug 2017

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

 ‘WE HEADED FOR THE RELATIVE TRANQUILITY OF THE VAN GOGH MUSEUM, WHERE THE PAINTINGS PITCHED AND REELED IN A BLAZE OF YELLOW.’ A MUSHROOM-FUELLED VISIT TO MUSEUMPLEIN INSPIRES THE NARRATOR OF GEOFF DYER’S 2002 SHORT STORY, HOTEL OBLIVION

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TOP 5 o o

Now you can eat a Big Mac in Amsterdam without having to remove your velvet house shoes. That’s right, McDonald’s has chosen our fair city to test-drive its home delivery service, in partnership with Uber Eats. Ronald’s gourmet sandwiches can currently be summoned to your door from the Spaklerweg, Albert Cuyp and Amstelveen branches of the Golden Arches, with a delivery cost of €2.50 and no minimum spend. If the scheme is deemed a success, it’ll be rolled out across the Netherlands.

BUNS ON THE RUN

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 AMSTERDAM PRIDE Amsterdam celebrates the LGBT community with nine days of parties and special events, including the legendary canal parade. 29 July-6 August Various locations pride.amsterdam

2 GRACHTENFESTIVAL The crème de la crème of contemporary classical music uses the city’s canals as an enchanting backdrop, includ-

ing the marvellous (and free!) Prinsengracht Concert. 11-20 August Various locations grachtenfestival.nl

nied by food, music and even blind date nights. 16-26 August, Stenen Hoofd, Westerdoksdijk plukdenacht.nl

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3 COMEDYTRAIN

5 KWAKU

Enjoy great comedy acts from pairs of up-and-coming performers hailing from the US, UK and Australia.

Celebrate Amsterdam's diversity at this vibrant festival that marries music, theatre, sports, food and much, much more for three weeks of nonstop fun.

INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL

5 July-5 August Toomler, Breitnerstraat 2 comedytrain.nl

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4 PLUK DE NACHT The best indie, unreleased films are on show at this open-air cinema festival, with screenings accompa-

15 July-6 August Nelson Mandelapark kwakufestival.nl

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‘EVERY WALL IN EVERY ROOM IS HIDDEN BEHIND PAINTINGS AND OBJECTS. WEAPONS I'VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.’

‘COMPLETELY IDIOTIC ABUSE OF A CAMEL.’

HENDRICKJE STOFFELS SURVEYS HER MASTER’S HOUSEHOLD, IN SYLVIE MATTON’S 1997 NOVEL, REMBRANDT’S WHORE

COUNCILLOR MAARTEN POORTER GETS THE HUMP AFTER A DROMEDARY IS LED THROUGH THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT AS PART OF A STAG PARTY

KING WITH WINGS

DISAPPEARING INK Amsterdam’s mayor has scooped a prize for street art. A life-sized portrait of Eberhard van der Laan by street art collective Kamp Seedorf appeared in February outside Wibautstraat Metro station after it was confirmed that Van der Laan was suffering from terminal cancer. Despite an agreement that the work, showing the mayor wearing an AFC Ajax scarf, could remain, it was erased by a hapless cleaner. Nevertheless, it won in the category of ‘Best Message’ at the recent Dutch Street Art Awards. A spokesperson for Kamp Seedorf said of Van der Laan, ‘He is the coolest mayor we’ll ever have’. kampseedorf.com

IN THE LOOP Twice-daily, direct Eurostar services between London and Amsterdam will be operating soon. At under four hours, the trip still clocks at a snail’s pace compared to Tesla mogul Elon Musk’s designs for the Delft Hyperloop, an innovative new form of transport that will send metal passenger pods, levitating on cushions of air, through elevated tubes at 800mph – roughly the speed of sound. The plan is to connect Amsterdam and Paris with a journey time of 30 minutes by 2021.

In a development that falls firmly within the ‘you couldn’t make it up’ category, it seems the Dutch king has been moonlighting as a pilot for the national carrier, KLM. In an interview with De Telegraaf newspaper in May, WillemAlexander revealed that he has been taking to the skies on a twice-monthly basis to helm shorthaul services to and from Schiphol. Despite making announcements over the intercom to passengers for more than two decades, it seems no-one ever realised that the monarch was in the cockpit. ‘The advantage is that I can always say I am speaking on behalf of the captain and crew to welcome them on board, so I don’t have to say my name, the king told the newspaper. ‘But then most people don’t listen anyway,’ he admitted.

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LIFE’S A BEACH

Spending the summer in Amsterdam? You don’t have to relinquish the joys of lounging on the beach with a good book, the sun on your cheeks and sandy toes in water . PLLEK Until 1984, NDSM-Wharf was Amsterdam’s largest shipyard. Today, the warehouses and cranes are boutique hotels and trendy restaurants, and the waterfront has been transformed into one of Amsterdam’s most popular city beaches by the team behind Pllek, a large restaurant and bar built from reclaimed materials (think shipping containers and corrugated iron). As urban as an urban beach can be, this hotspot on the IJ comes alive in the summer months with DJs, a campfire and lots of happy faces of all ages soaking up the alternative vibes. Pllek is intended as a ten-year project and it’s just celebrated its halfway point, so you’ve got another five years left to enjoy it. pllek.nl

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1968 said it best: ‘Under the pavement lies the beach’ especially when the city is built on sand, and perpetually in construction. Escape the madness and find some real toe-toasting sand, right here in Amsterdam. text Jayne Robinson

BEYOND THE SEA

o most minds, the words ‘Amsterdam’ and ‘beach’ aren’t the most likely of bedfellows. After all, a Northern European climate, inland location and medieval city centre don’t exactly scream steel drums and pina coladas. But having never been the types to let something as trivial as geography and architecture restrict them, the pleasure-seeking Dutch have set about establishing one of the best urban beach cultures in the world – right here in Amsterdam. SAND AND WATER It makes sense, when you think about it. Amsterdam is a city built – metaphorically and literally – on sand and water. From the glory years of the Golden Age, when the city’s fortune was tied up in the seafaring trade of its shipping companies, to the famous reclamation of polder lands from the sea, the city’s relationship with water can be seen and felt at every turn. Of course, you won’t find much of the island life in the centre of the city. But head just ten minutes out from the canals and cobbles of the Amsterdam-of-a-thousandpostcards, and you’ll see the famous Dutch ingenuity put to use. A wonderful array of

urban beaches has transformed postindustrial wasteland or unloved parks on the city’s outskirts into colourful summertime hotspots. Travel a little further out of town (half an hour west ought to do it), and you’ll soon hit the pristine white beaches of the North Sea and the seaside resorts of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal. NEW LAND ‘God created the earth, but the Dutch created the Netherlands’. The famous saying refers to the way in which, from the 16th century onwards, the Dutch created new polders from the sea, reclaiming and transforming wetlands. This commitment to converting unworkable land into something valuable and communal continues to thrive, especially on Amsterdam’s outskirts. Everywhere you look, lost landscapes are being regenerated into recreational space for the next generation. And, as luck would have it, this space seems to include a lot of beaches. Located on the most recently reclaimed of these lands, the artificial island archipelago of IJburg, lies Blijburg aan Zee – aptly named, since ‘blij’ means ‘happy’ in Dutch. A large beach on a sandy peninsula

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ROEST Roest means ‘rust’ in Dutch, and it’s a fitting name for an industrial site that was first a shipyard of the Dutch East India Company and then a steamboat harbour, until it fell into disrepair in the 20th century. Today, Roest is at the heart of the area’s new life as a cultural mecca, with a rustic bar located in the old steamhouse and regular events and fairs in an old factory hall, as well as a beach complete with outdoor bar and hundreds of tanned Dutchies leaping into the water as soon as the temperatures soar (and sometimes when they don’t). amsterdamroest.nl

THE BEST PARTY BEACHES Dance the day away at one of these Amsterdam beaches known for their sunset sessions and beach parties. Woodstock 69, Bloemendaal From club nights to gigs and large beach festivals, there’s always an excuse to dance around the campfire at beach party mecca Woodstock 69. Blijburg, Amsterdam Regular music festivals, DJ sessions and beach parties. Pllek, Amsterdam Regular Friday and Saturday night parties and larger events throughout the summer. Roest, Amsterdam There’s always a party at Roest – though much of the late-night fun stuff takes place indoors due to noise restrictions.

STRANDZUID Sprawling out unexpectedly behind the RAI conference centre, this leafy oasis of boardwalks and beach loungers has just reopened following a major refurbishment. To withstand the unpredictable Dutch seasons, some of the temporary structures have been replaced with a permanent Bali-inspired beach pavilion. With a more upmarket vibe, Strandzuid tempts business types from the RAI’s various conferences with an opportunity to kick off the work shoes, loosen the tie and enjoy some surf ’n’ turf cooked over charcoals by the water. strand-zuid.nl

Almere Strand, Almere You won’t find a party here every week, but this beach is home to several festivals throughout the summer and a burgeoning beach club scene.

13 extending eastwards from the islands, Blijburg was taken from the water in the mid-nineties and quickly found favour with Amsterdam’s neo-hippies. It is now known for its bohemian beach parties, clean swimming water and colourful beach club, which looks much further east than east Amsterdam for inspiration.

URBAN RENEWAL Some of Amsterdam’s renewed landscapes are disused industrial sites: throwbacks to Amsterdam’s shipbuilding heyday, when steel and brawn ruled instead of silicon and start-ups. Now that those days have passed, what to do with all those derelict shipyards and steam engine factories sitting empty in prime waterfront locations? When artists and squatters started moving into the abandoned sites at the island of Oostenburg in the east of the city and on NDSM-Wharf in Amsterdam Noord, the City of Amsterdam took a bottom-up decision: it would help mobilise these communities with funding and practical support, working with socially minded organisations to transform the terrain in creative – and beachy! – ways.

AMSTERDAMSE BOS Amsterdam’s biggest landscape park attracts six million visitors a year and has several excellent spots for swimming. Kids can paddle around safely while parents lounge around on the grass, and several low-hanging bridges let older kids (and the young at heart) practice their diving skills. Culinary options range from pancakes at Boerderij Meerzicht to a meal with a view at De Veranda. amsterdamsebos.nl

In the mid-nineties, artists, squatters and skaters filed a temporary plan for NDSM-Wharf, and the Kunststad (‘art city’) was born. Twenty years on, it’s a thriving hub of creative industry and entertainment, or, as the Dutch call it, a creative broedplaats (‘breeding ground’). It’s also home to one of the city’s most popular urban beaches, prime summertime hangout Pllek. A similar thing happened on the man-made Oostenburg island, where the ghosts of maritime industry left behind by the Dutch East India Company and, later, the steamboat harbour KNSM have found a new purpose. The restaurant, bar and club complex Roest boasts the obligatory beach, along with an imaginative cultural programme that includes open-air films, music festivals, makers’ markets and, of course, any excuse to stoke up the campfires. It’s not just Amsterdam’s industrial areas that have been rejuvenated with watery recreation in mind. In the post-war neighbourhood of Nieuw West, the Sloterplas lake that forms the bulk of the vast, green Sloterpark has benefited from the municipality’s recent €2.5 million investment and now boasts one

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WILD WATER SPORTS

The North Sea beaches around Amsterdam offer plenty of action for those who prefer to add a dose of adrenaline. SURFING Go to: Wijk aan Zee by IJmuiden is one of the Netherlands’ top surf spots – check out the Ozlines surf school for lessons. Zandvoort and Bloemendaal also pull their weight when it comes to surfing. First Wave and Surfana in Zandvoort offer surf lessons, and in the summer months, Surfana even has a surf camp in Bloemendaal. Best in: The season usually runs from April to October. Summer’s best for beginners, spring and autumn for pros, as there are more chances for good wind and bigger waves. SURF KAYAKING Go to: You can go surf kayaking in IJmuiden (at Seaside Sports, for example) and Zandvoort (check out Actief Events). A possible route for a sea kayaking tour is from Wijk aan Zee to IJmuiden. Best in: Spring, summer and autumn. KITESURFING Go to: Wijk aan Zee’s Noordpier Beach is one of the most popular kitesurfing spots due to its exceptional wind and wave flow caused by the Noordpier. For lessons, check Karta Boardsports, the Kitesurfschool, Kiteflow, MOFO Kitesurfing or KiteFEEL. Best in: Schools are open throughout the season (usually April to October), but pros can go throughout the year.

IAMSTERDAM BEACH MAP Visit the Iamsterdam store in Central Station and get our handy beach map (or go to iamsterdam.com and search for ‘beach map’): we’ll show you where all the best beaches are – and how to get there –, so all you have to do is lather on the sunscreen and take off your shoes. From IJMuiden’s vast sandy expanses and busy harbour, through Zandvoort’s hustle and bustle, to the fabulous beach houses of Noordwijk such as Bries, Breakers or Beachclub O, your summer is just a quick train hop away.

BLIJBURG AAN ZEE Amsterdam’s largest city beach reaches out from the eastern shore of the manmade island of IJburg. It’s one of the city’s hippest (and hippiest) places to swim, sunbathe and hang out when the sun shines – although this beachy escape is popular all year round thanks to its large clubhouse that radiates sunshine even when the winter weather kicks in. On summer evenings, the live music and bonfires keep beachgoers entertained until well after sundown. blijburg.nl

15 of the best – and still relatively undiscovered – city beaches in town. Framed by leafy trees and taking its reference points from nature rather than industry, the beach has been treated to picnic benches, sun loungers and spaces for food trucks. The lake itself is undergoing an extensive water cleaning scheme by Waternet, who have introduced algaeeating mussels and underwater plants to clear harmful bacteria from the water in a sustainable, eco-friendly way. Initial results are encouraging, and tests are due to continue throughout 2017. NATURAL LANDSCAPES This ingenuity and urban planning are all well and good, but sometimes it makes sense to let nature do the hard work. Bucolic beach environments can be

HET TWISKE Take a scenic bike ride to Zaanstad, where you will find no fewer than ten different places to swim. Het Twiske recreational park is home to the Speelsloot, the Kure-Jan Strand, the Doesstrand and many more spots for cooling off in the water. You can also rent canoes, row boats and sailing boats to head off on your own adventure. twiske-waterland.nl

IJMUIDEN This is one for lovers of nature and water sports: head north-west of Amsterdam and you will find an expanse of sandy shore at IJmuiden. The widest beach in the Netherlands is always a marvelous sensory and physical experience. The smell of the salty sea pervades the air, and the fresh gusts of wind coming in from the sea ensure this area is a haven for fans of water and wind sports, from surfing to sailing or even land yachting. Whether you’re an expert or beginner, there are loads of professional teachers and rental companies to get you going. And the Timboektoe beach pavilion at Wijk aan Zee has something for everyone, from live music every Saturday through children’s sand sculpture contests to yoga on Sundays.

found at the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest, one of Europe’s largest city parks – see page 36) and further out of town at rural nature reserves like Het Twiske recreational area or the 115-hectare Haarlemmermeerse Bos to the south west of Amsterdam. And of course, those looking for a bit more salt water in their beach trip will do well to head westwards (a short 30-minute train ride away) until they reach the shores of the North Sea and the beach resorts of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal. Here, clean white sands and dunes hug the coastline for nine uninterrupted kilometres of sunbathing, water sports and lively beach clubs. So grab that towel and put on those flipflops: be it inside the city or just outside its gates, life really is a beach if you’re an Amsterdammer.

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DUTCH BEACH ETIQUETTE Every country has a different beach culture, and so, to ensure maximum enjoyment and avoidance of faux-pas, here is our quick guide on how to behave on the Dutch North Sea beaches. Am I allowed to drink alcohol at the beach? Yes: many beaches have bars and restaurants where you can enjoy a drink (or three) in the sunshine. Can I have a shower at the beach? You’ll find shower facilities and toilets at some of the larger beaches like Zandvoort and Wijk aan Zee, and the lake at Gaasperplas. Oh, but what to wear? Of course, just like in the rest of Amsterdam, everything goes (as long as it’s something – see below under ‘Can I go nude?’). But if you want to blend in, go for boho chic at hippy-ish spots such as Blijburg or Woodstock 69; highwaisted denim cut-offs and hipster hats at Roest and Pllek; and head-to-toe white at the places that reckon themselves a bit Ibiza (like Strandzuid in Amsterdam or Bloemendaal’s Republiek). What to order in beach clubs? In the Netherlands, as soon as the sun comes out, so do the bottles of rosé (or rosétje, as it’s affectionately known at these shores). So that’s always a safe bet. Alternatively, get an Aperol Spritz to match the colour of the sunset – and your face at the end of the day, if you haven’t used sunscreen. Also, use sunscreen! Can I go topless? Unless there is a sign prohibiting it – yes, of course! This is the Netherlands, after all. Can I go nude? Not usually. But there are designated nudist beaches (naaktstrand). One’s around two kilometres south of Zandvoort, so just head there if you want to let it all hang out.

Get more information on Amsterdam's best urban and coastal beaches on our website by searching for 'beach' on iamsterdam.com

IAMSTERDAM.COM

‘Clean white sands and dunes hug the coastline for nine uninterrupted kilometres’

INSIDER TIPS Amsterdam Beach local Joanne Wyatt shares her favourite hangout spots on the beach at Bloemendaal. daal. WOODSTOCK 69 An eccentric party place, known as the hippy tent of Bloemendaal. It has a colourful easterninfused decor with palm trees and umbrellas, and definitely attracts an alternative crowd who party hard around the bonfire with live music and DJs. woodstock69.nl RAPA NUI A really nice, relaxed beach club, which tends to attract families. We go here when we just feel like a drink without having to party – although it’s easy to get settled in on sunny days, and what starts as a couple of drinks can regularly turn into a session. rapanui.nl ZEESTOCK This is a kitesurfing school based at Woodstock 69. It’s run by an Aussie, Benn Twyman, who fell in love with Woodstock after a visit and set up the school there. Bloemendaal isn’t widely known as a surfing spot, but when the conditions are right you can see a sky full of colourful kites along the coast. zeestockkitesurfing.com REPUBLIEK A bit of an ‘upmarket’ beach bar on Bloemendaal for the more sophisticated crowd – you could easily mistake it for a beach club in Ibiza. You can hire large beds that overlook the beach, or lounge around on one of the sofas. They also have a pizza oven which makes great rustic pizzas. republiekbloemendaal.nl

The Hague is celebrating Mondrian & De Stijl The largest Mondrian exhibition ever now on display in The Hague

mondrianthehague.com

jul & aug 2017

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SUMMER FESTIVALS GAY PRIDE AMSTERDAM CAMPING THE BEST ICE CREAMS NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS

GRACHTENFESTIVAL

‘THE MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL IS LITERALLY OPEN TO ALL AND EVERYBODY CAN BE WHOEVER THE HELL THEY WANT, AND THAT’S WHAT I STAND FOR.’ Amber Vineyard on another kind of festival that Amsterdam is famous for

OPERA IN THE GARDEN Harking back to opera’s beginnings as courtly entertainment in Italy, the annual Opera in the Garden performances at Museum Van Loon are a beautiful experience, matching the grandeur of the canal house garden with fantastic music. This year it’s Le Docteur Miracle, composed by George Bizet when he was only 18 years old, and translated by Jeroen Sarphati to give it a contemporary twist. Refreshments are served in the garden after the performance, offering plenty of opportunity to enjoy the house and its garden. 10-15 AUGUST Museum Van Loon museumvanloon.nl

Each year, the Grachtenfestival (literally ‘Canal Festival’) celebrates innovative classical music and brings it to the picture-perfect backdrop of the Amsterdam’s most iconic waterways and industrially chic venues. With more than 250 concerts on 90 venues, many of them outdoors, and some in Amsterdam’s most prominent concert locations, the Grachtenfestival offers a programme for every taste – and best of all, free of charge. The stars of the Grachtenfestival are the young, up-and-coming and incredibly talented musicians who are invited to perform from all over the world. One spectacular staple to count on is the Prinsengracht Concert, which takes place on a floating platform on the city’s eponymous canal. A unique opportunity to discover the crème de la crème of the next generation of classical masters – and enjoy Amsterdam’s balmy summer at the same time. 11-20 AUGUST Various locations grachtenfestival.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

c as

Dancing on sunshine With the slew of awesome music festivals that Amsterdam’s throwing in the next couple of months, your summer schedule will be fuller than the prettiest ingenue’s dance card.

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

ELECTRO GALORE Get your first good dose of electronic music at the Pitch Festival on 1 July, which takes over NDSM, the perfect industrial wasteland for many of the summer’s happenings. For more hell-raising, foot-stomping beats, Dekmantel ends on a weekender (2-6 August) in the Amsterdamse Bos that features big names such as Jeff Mills, Jon Hopkins and Joy Orbison. Iconic Amsterdam parties, Dance Valley and Loveland (both 12 August) and Voltt (28 August) bring

incredible line-ups of international DJs, but if you’d like to discover some new talents, Amsterdam Live on Stage (22 July) gives you a chance to dance your heart out to some experimental beats. One of the best things about Amsterdam festivals is the mix of excellent music and creative energy. The most brilliant example of that spirit is definitely the Milkshake Festival, which is not only a catch-all musical treat, with performances that range from electro DJs to drag acts, but also (and especially) be-

cause it delves deep into its mission of spreading love, freedom and tolerance. Crazy costumes, wild (but respectful) partying and fabulous dancing are vastly encouraged at this now two-day (29 and 30 July) event in the Westerpark. Another essential multi-tasking party is Mysteryland, which takes place on 26 and 27 August in the enchanting woods of the Groene Weelde. Joining the beats are performance and theatre artists, exhibitions, and even the ‘smallest cinema in the world’.

THE BRAVE

BUITEN WESTEN

UITMARKT

festival highlights THE BRAVE An outdoors yet intimate setting, and plenty of acoustics: these are the ingredients of the open-air festival The Brave, which had its first edition in 2014. It is the first open-air festival in the Netherlands that focuses exclusively on singer-songwriter, indie and folk, banking on the renewed popularity of these genres. Music lovers who like to discover new music, dance off the beaten path and have plenty of fun will definitely find The Brave to their heart’s content. 26 August Tuinen van West festivalthebrave.nl

BUITEN WESTEN

TAKE IT TO THE STREETS If your taste is more urban than electro, fear not: you’ll be well taken care of. Hiphop and R&B are at the forefront of the Encore Festival on 19 August at NDSM, and at Appelsap Fresh Music Festival on 12 August at Flevopark where even Lil Wayne will make an appearance. A relative newcomer to Amsterdam, Summer Dance Forever is a week-long affair (15-23 August), spread over several locations such as Paradiso, Melkweg and DeLaMar,

that not only treats guests to awesome street dancing performances but also epic hiphop battles, seminars and workshops. BACK TO THE ROOTS To celebrate Amsterdam’s incredible diversity, two major festivals honour its rich history with its past colonies. On 1 July, Keti Koti (‘Broken Chains’ in Surinamese) returns to the Oosterpark with an Emancipation Concert headlined by Julian Marley - but also plenty more activities such

as a costumed dance and more than 40 stalls of authentic Surinamese food, clothing and products. Kwaku, which sets up shop at the Nelson Mandelapark from 15 July to 6 August, is a giant celebration of Zuid’s rich, multicultural identity, with a vast programme of musical and theatrical performances, sports and beauty pageants, literature prizes, debates, lectures and workshops, and 100 stands of food and products from Suriname, the Antilles, Africa, and the Caribbean.

DJs, musicians, artists, creative spirits and culture lovers unite once again for the Buiten Westen festival on 15 July at Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. Electronic and house music remains the primary focus of this multi-faceted festival. In 2017, co-organisers Next Monday’s Hangover and Pleinvrees are joined by NGHTDVSN, Cartel, Club Knum and Les Enfant Terribles, with each organisation shining on their own stage. Look out for a dazzling lineup of DJ talent from home and abroad, and lots of fun stuff like a ferris wheel, a vintage market, The Conscious Club’s yoga workshops, and the famous tree of life made of colourful balloons. 15 July Ouderkerkerplas buitenwesten.am

UITMARKT The Uitmarkt, held annually in Amsterdam at the end of August, is the Netherlands’ grandest celebration of the start of the new cultural season. This year marks the Uitmarkt’s 40th anniversary, and more than half a million visitors are expected. More than 350 performances grace the stages of 30plus venues, from classic to child-friendly, hip-hop to dance and theatre to jazz – there's something for everyone. You can meet the artists at the Free Flow, bring the kids to Uitmarkt Junior, sing along during the famous closing act, and Uitmarkt Books is a big treat for literature lovers with special events, signings and poetry readings. 25-27 August Various locations uitmarkt.nl

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PART III ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

ay e

Looking fabulous Our guide to Gay Pride, Amsterdam-style text Elysia Brenner photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

msterdam’s second-biggest event of the year is also its most colourful (given King’s Day is a pretty solid orange). Sure, that means a lot of rainbows – but you’ll notice the word ‘gay’ conspicuously missing from all Amsterdam Pride marketing. Though this is still the very happy domain of the Amsterdam LGBTQAIPK (Google it) community, the goal is to make it clear that this is an event where all Amsterdammers (even if you’re only Amsterdammer-for-a-day) can mingle and

celebrate being woke and living in one of the most liberal cities in the world. (Drinking game: sip whenever someone mentions that the Netherlands was the first country in the world to legalise gay marriage.) DON’T RAIN ON MY PARADE Pride Week is chock full of way more events than just one parade. The event takes over the Vondelpark on Saturday 29 July, goes on tour to Zandvoort beach the following Monday, and hits several museums and restaurants

throughout the week. In addition, you’ll find street parties, outdoor film festivals, lectures, other parades, concerts, and more. But perhaps the most beloved non-Canal Parade pride event is the Drag Queen Olympics on Friday 4 August at 19:00 at the Homomonument. With events like the 100-metre Stiletto Sprint and Bitch Volleyball, it’s all the light-hearted spectacle you’re hoping for and more. However, the clear climax of the festival comes on Saturday 5 August with the Canal Parade. For two hours, 80

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  boats with themes running the gamut from the pink police through rugby players to Iranians protesting their country’s practices glide through the heart of the city covered in gyrating partiers and blasting a clashing cacophony of music. Read: It gets loud and crowded, and photo opps abound. The parade basically follows the Prinsengracht. Be warned: people line up early, so if you want a canal-side spot with a view, you should too. Other options include making friends with the people in front of you (bringing beer helps) or seeking high ground (such as staircases). STRUT YOUR STUFF Pride’s anything-goes mentality definitely extends to the wardrobe choices. You’re guaranteed to see plenty of drag and at least one pair of assless chaps, but really you can wear any kooky and colourful gear that strikes your fancy and fit right in. While you’ll find accessories like boas and crazy glasses on sale at impromptu street vendors the day of the Canal Parade, multiply your options by stocking up before the big day. Feestwinkelen (‘party stores’) in the centre include Partyhouse Feestartikelen or Louis Wittenburg (louiswittenburg.nl) with higher-quality – but also higher-priced – options, but if you can make it out to Park Frankendael in Oost, Dam Feestartikelen (damfeestartikelen.nl) holds one of the best selections for the best prices in the city. In any case, whatever your outfit of choice, you’ll be scrubbing glitter bombs out of it for a week. PRIDE AMSTERDAM 29 July–6 August pride.amsterdam CANAL PARADE 5 August, 13:00-15:00 IAMSTERDAM.COM Check our website for our guide to Gay Pride 2017, with all of our favourite highlights and the full programme of festivities.

Lucky Amsterdam: the Australian’s little sister to Cirque du Soleil, circus-cabaret LIMBO, is spending the summer at Boom Chicago, transforming the Rozengracht theatre in a circus stage for seven weeks. A live band with over 50 instruments accompany jaw dropping contortion, gut-churning aerial acrobatics, nail-biting stunts and staggering illusions. The international cast includes Coney Island’s fire-breathing, swordswallowing beauty Heather Holliday, gravity-defying Chinese pole master and beat boxer Mikael Bres, the aerially graceful Canadian acrobat Evelyne Allard, and Australia’s tap dancing sensation Hilton Denis.

LIMBO

UNTIL 6 AUGUST Boom Chicago, Rozengracht 117 boomchicago.nl

AMSTERDAM KOOKT Fasten your napkins: from 4 to 7 August, artsy-trendy NDSM is being invaded by an army of food and music trucks, and there’ll be fare for every palate and every ear. The kitchens on wheels will serve everything from staple street foods such as burgers, crepes and sate kebabs to more exotic offerings such as MILF (Man I Love Fish)’s ceviches and, take a deep breath… insects (grilled grasshoppers, mealworm pancakes and eggrolls!) at Microbar. The musical menu is just as varied, with local pop bands such as Jack and the Weatherman, and lots of electronic music DJs.

COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL Each summer, Toomler, the Netherlands’ first and arguably finest comedy club, brings English-speaking comedians to Amsterdam during its Comedytrain International Summer Festival. Known for its intimate shows featuring both new and established stand-up names, this year’s festival brings a multitude of talents from the US, Australia and the UK. Brace yourself for a month of eclectic duos taking over the venue on four consecutive nights (Wed to Sat) each week: Bilal Zafar and Alfie Brown; Jamali Maddix and Sarah Kendall; Drew Michael and Tom Rhodes; Hannah Gadsby and Josh Howie; and Joe DeRosa with Kyle Kinane.

4-7 AUGUST NDSM, Tt Neveritaweg amsterdamkookt.nl

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5 JULY-5 AUGUST Toomler, Breitnerstraat 2 comedytrain.nl

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PART III ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

atram ag

Into the woods

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It’s summertime: ditch the B&B and make your bed under the stars at one of Amsterdam’s camping grounds.

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text Lily Heaton

msterdam’s canal belt is particularly lovely in the summer sunshine, but sometimes a little green escape is just what the doctor ordered. Whether you’re a fan of caravan camping (a favourite Dutch pastime), looking for some bungalow adventure, or plan on roughing it with a traditional tent experience, you don’t need to venture far. Nestled in the up-and-coming Amsterdam Noord area, Camping Vliegenbos  (amsterdam.nl/vliegenbos) is a quick journey from Central Station. If sleeping on the ground isn’t your style, try their Camping Hotel. It features a communal hangout area complete with cooking facilities where you can socialise before snuggling up in a real bed. Paddle or pedal your way to the IJmeer any time of year and you’ll find the secluded Camping Zeeburg (campingzeeburg.nl). This communal-style campsite offers tent

plots, caravan spots and lakeside bungalows, within close proximity to the city centre via tram 26. Visitors of all ages will enjoy parties, live music, swimming and family fun. There’s even a petting zoo for the little ones. BACK TO NATURE If your idea of a city escape involves a sunsoaked afternoon complete with water sports and 166 hectares of grassy meadows, then venture southeast with metro 53 for a back-to-nature experience at Gaasperplas  (gaaspercamping.nl). Modern amenities like laundry, showers, a convenience store and free Wi-Fi are also available for those who aren’t ready to completely disconnect. For Amsterdam local Amanda Perino, ‘Camping at Gaasperplas was a kooky experience and a fun way to save money on accommodations while participating in a summer course at the Van Gogh museum’.

If you’re willing to venture further, trek out to the seaside at Camping Bakkum (campingbakkum.com) for campfires, surfing, rafting and more. However, if you’re a city dweller at heart who wants to sleep under the stars without leaving the ring road, get to know your neighbours with fun activities while communing with nature at some of the city’s best parks during Buurt Camping (debuurtcamping.nl, 21-23 July). Ready to trade the bustle of the city for chirping birds and tree-lined cycle lanes? Grab your compass (or iPhone) and choose your own adventure. Just remember to say a little prayer for sunshine… because it is still summer in the Netherlands after all.

featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

The Stedelijk Museum dedicates two locations to the smart contributions that designers and architects have made to alleviate the plight of the world’s 60 million refugees – some of them even invented by refugees themselves. From clothing that transforms into tents to digital services that help displaced people become more familiar with their adoptive cities, the innovative creations meet the real world challenge: Can design offer feasible, realistic solutions to a dire situation, or is it all a benevolent dream? The 50 projects are showcased not only at the museum but also at Lola Lik, a creative space located near the Bijlmerbajes prison, which has become a refugee asylum.

‘A new place can saturate my senses.’

ADAM JEPPESEN

MEDEA In order to reach Amsterdam’s anglophone community, Toneelgroep Amsterdam is surtitling many of its performances in English this summer, including the acclaimed production of Medea, an adaptation of Euripides’ gruesome tragedy. For 24 centuries, writers and theatre artists have been retelling the story of the king’s daughter who is cast out by her husband and then murders her children. Director Simon Stone mixes the tragedy by Euripides with the true story of Debora Green, a child murderess in the United States in the 1990s. The result, like most of this brilliant theatre group’s productions, is captivating.

©JAN VERSWEYVELD

A collaborative project between the National Opera & Ballet and the Balletorkest, Amsterdam I Am explores the city’s diversity in song and dance. Sixty young dancers, from 12 to 18 years old, are directed by choreographers Honey Eavis and Peter Leung in a show that’s all about Amsterdam. What does it mean to grow up and live here? How does the city represent you? Would you be a different person if you lived in a different environment? The project is shaped by the personal stories of the participants, who are brought together from different areas of the city, with their different social and cultural backgrounds.

8-9 JULY National Opera & Ballet, Amstel 3 operaballet.nl

SANNE PEPER ©©XXXXXXXXXXX

UNTIL 27 AUGUST OUT OF CAMP FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 foam.org

UNTIL 3 SEPTEMBER Stedelijk Museum, stedelijk.nl Lola Lik, H.J.E. Wenckebachweg 48

AMSTERDAM I AM

Born: 1978 in Denmark Talent: A photographer on the rise, Adam Jeppesen first gained international recognition with his Wake series in 2008. His images are infused with contemplation and silence, especially the five series on show at FOAM until 27 August: Folded, Scatter, Ghosts, Parts, and XCopy. Jeppesen spent almost a year and a half travelling solo from the North Pole to Antartica, searching for – and immortalising – remote landscapes. To Lomography Magazine, he confided, ‘I could spend hours staring at maps as a child. Growing up in the US, with its culture for taking to the seemingly endless road, I began dreaming of one day going from Alaska to the end of the South American continent.’ Instead, when he grew up, he spent many months preparing for a trip that took him from pole to pole, during which he documented the vastness of nature, its tranquillity, its ruggedness, but especially its grandiose beauty. In a digital world, Jeppesen favours the happy accidents of analogue; and even more so, experimental printing techniques, damaged and flawed images, even sometimes displaying photocopies as his work’s final product. We have become so accustomed to admiring landscapes in perfectly sharp, detailed high resolution, that Jeppesen’s trademark light leaks, overexposures, cracks, blurs and heavy grain, are simply arresting in their dreamy, poetic difference.

SOLUTION OR UTOPIA?

25-27 & 30-31 AUGUST Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 tga.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

e ram

The Ice Cream Wars Today a symbol of happy times, it’s hard to wrap one’s head around the fact that ice cream was once a cause of conflict in Amsterdam. text Karin Engelbrecht

hile several Dutch ice cream makers were active here before World War I, competition increased with the arrival of Northern Italian immigrants, attracted by the Olympic Games in the late 1920s. The Italians were hard-working and determined – some were even said to keep chickens in the attic for their creamy confections – and the fruits of their labour soon became synonymous with quality. But when their success led to a wave of Italian immigration, local ice cream makers protested at a tumultuous gathering at the Bellevue theatre, and

lobbied the Dutch government for stricter controls. One strategy – to limit the number of workers Italian ice cream makers may employ – backfired when many of the fired employees started their own small ice cream businesses instead, often assisted by their ex-bosses.

ies. Around since 1935, this tiny stand near the RAI does the classics like pistachio, stracciatella and panna cotta to perfection. It’s a top choice for traditionalists who crave the rich, creamy consistency and dense, elastic texture of authentic Italian gelato.

Today, the result of this healthy rivalry is plain to see, with a wide range of Italian-style and local offerings, including:

MONTE PELMO After working for an Italian ice cream store before and during World War II, and running a canteen for Italian guest workers, producing Italian ice cream was a natural step for co-owner Riek Cornelisse. Today, this artisan ice cream factory’s known for in-

PISA IJS Many of these first-generation Italian ice cream parlours were named after Northern Italian cit-

Scheldeplein 10

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teresting flavours such as lemon cheesecake, stroopwafel, blood orange and limoncello. Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17 montepelmo.nl

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VAN SOEST Before refrigeration and the proliferation of ice cream stands, ordinary folks could only find ice cream at confectioners, and this chocolatier continues that tradition every summer with the best chocolate-dipped ice cream cones in the city. They’re a moreish match for gelato flavours such as salted caramel, biscotti cream and raspberry-white chocolate. Open until 22:00, it’s the perfect

place for your post-prandial pudding fix.

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Utrechtsestraat 143 vansoest-amsterdam.nl

MASSIMO IJSFABRIEK Massimo Bertonasco, the newest member of Amsterdam’s Italian ice cream family, grew up in a latteria, where his family sold dairy and ice cream. With flavours such as ricotta & fig, cassata Siciliana and zabaione, he is bringing a taste of home to De Pijp, by way of his uncle’s old recipes, local organic milk, authentic Italian ingredients and artisan techniques. Van Ostadestraat 147 facebook.com/massimoijsfabriek

NICE Popular with parents, these cheerfully packaged organic Dutch lollies are made with just fruit, water, tea or juice and a little cane sugar or honey, with no nasty additives. Flavours include ‘pure strawberry’; ‘watermelon & mint’; ‘raspberry & hibiscus’ and ‘pear & orange’. Available from Marqt supermarket and various other stores or locations, city-wide (including Artis Zoo). nicefruitijsjes.nl

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PART III ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

New realities The advent of photography text Catalina Iorga

SummerNights The Concertgebouw goes rogue text Mark Smith

n 15 July, as the clock creeps towards midnight, a group of people of all ages will line up outside the stately Concertgebouw, clutching sleeping bags, pillows – possibly even the odd teddy bear – ready to bed down en masse inside the magnificent red velvet concert hall. This isn’t some extension of the Occupy movement, but rather the latest initiative from Max Richter, the pioneering British musician, whose eight-hour opus of electronica and chamber music, Sleep, is ‘a dreamscape,’ designed to be experienced at least in part while counting sheep. A high-water mark in terms of immersive audience experiences, Richter’s show is one of the many highlights from this year’s SummerNights, an initiative sponsored by the Dutch asset management company Robeco. Just shy of its 30th birthday, the annual programme has enabled the concert hall to play fast and loose with the strictures of musical genre, encouraging audience members to really let their hair down – or even do the downward-facing dog. Richter’s performance is preceded by an afternoon of Yoga in Concert: 90 whole minutes hosted by the guitarplaying yogi Jan Kuiper.

A tribute to Ella Fitzgerald by the American singer Patti Austin will take over the main hall on 29 July, when rows of seating will be removed and replaced with clusters of tables in order to recreate the less reverential atmosphere that would have prevailed in the Concertgebouw a century ago. Back then, attending a concert here was considered a predominantly social, rather than cultural, event. ‘People come in shorts and T-shirts, but they also come in ballgowns if they feel like it,’ says programmer Anita Crowe of the anything-goes vibe. ‘We don’t impose expectations on the audiences, and they always surprise us in return.’ Those hoping for the classic compositions that have reverberated through this building since it emerged from the marshes won’t be disappointed, either. ‘There will be a greatest hits component,’ affirms Crowe. Even if you end up bringing your duvet, this summer at the Concertgebouw is anything but a snooze.

1 JULY-31 AUGUST concertgebouw.nl

The 300 images displayed in New Realities give a glimpse into the first applications and uses of photography, from X-rays and snaps of botanical collections, through the police’s practical depictions of criminals, to the proliferation of amateur photography. All of the images on display come from the museum’s own collection of more than 150,000 photographs and include works by leading artists such as William Henry Fox Talbot, Julia Margaret Cameron, Roger Fenton, and Gustave Le Gray – alongside a few never-before-shown pieces.

A remarkable addition to this eclectic survey is a recent acquisition, which is widely regarded as the world’s first photo book, by botanist Anna Atkins who created Photographs of British Algae between 1843 and 1853. One of the most complete of the 20 handwritten editions presumed to still be around, which counts 307 excellently preserved cyanotype blueprints of seaweed, will take the exhibition’s centre stage. ‘In addition to its historical significance, Atkins’ work is characterised by a timeless beauty, which looks contemporary thanks to the abstraction of the silhouettes on photographic paper’, says Rijksmuseum’s General Director, Taco Dibbits. But other items on display also feel remarkably modern. For instance, Eadweard Muybridge’s pioneering stop-motion photographs are positively GIF-like: a testament to early photography’s enduring and evolving legacy. UNTIL 17 SEPTEMBER Rijksmuseum, Museumstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl

amous for its millionstrong collection spanning 800 years of Dutch history and art, the country’s largest and most visited museum has been establishing itself as somewhat of a photography powerhouse. After celebrating a decade of purchasing 20th-century masterpieces with the Star-Vu retrospective in early 2017, this summer the Rijksmuseum is going back to the 19th-century roots of the medium as a new means to explore and make sense of the world.

THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

Originally from California, Amber Vineyard (32), aka the mother of the House of Vineyard, teaches everyone to strut their stuff through the city’s fabulous ballroom scene.

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘I’ve always loved to perform’ 1. WHEN DID YOU FIRST MOVE TO THE NETHERLANDS? Half a lifetime ago: I came with my mother who moved to the Netherlands for love when I was 16. I studied in Leiden, but left during my last year to work in TV, which is how I ended up in Amsterdam in my early twenties. 2. HOW IS SCHOOL DIFFERENT HERE THAN IN THE US? I’ve always loved to perform, and I was part of the dance and theatre groups in high school. So it was a bit difficult when I moved here, because there were no such activities on the Dutch curriculum. It motivated me to do everything by myself, and I started a dance group in my school.

– it’s a huge subculture that developed in underground gay and drag clubs in New York. It’s all about flair, self-expression, and performance: people party in beautiful outfits, and they walk the runway like top models. When I started teaching voguing, a club owner asked me to organise events, and I accepted the challenge. The scene was non-existent in Amsterdam at the time, so it filled a gap that was needed in the LGBT community. Now I have a lot of students at my studio, where I teach voguing and runway workshops on Wednesdays and Fridays. The House of Vineyard parties that I organise several times per year have a huge following.

3. HOW DID YOU GET INTO THE BALLROOM SCENE? I met the grandfather of the House of Ninja when I travelled to Germany ten years ago. He introduced me to the movement

4. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE LGBT COMMUNITY IN AMSTERDAM? It’s a lot more accepted here than other countries, but it also isn’t. Look at that gay couple that was

beaten up a while ago. I feel older white men are accepted, but people from Jamaica, Suriname, Morocco – they’re treated in a different way. No one is even pushing for them to be included. 5. HOW DO YOU TRY TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE? I never considered myself an activist, but I’ve started getting a stamp for giving people a chance who never would. House of Vineyard is very diverse: men, women, big girls, tiny girls, trans women, gay, straight. I believe it’s not about colour, race or size, it’s about how you perform. If you’re giving me life, you deserve to be there. I also think the gay community is kind of… in boxes. That’s why I’m trying to create a space that is fun and accepting regardeless of gender, kink or even sexual orientation: open to all! We’ve been recognised for being an incredibly diverse organisation, and that’s one of the reasons why I was awarded

‘Powerwoman of the Year’ at the Golden Gnomes last year. 6. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE EVENT IN AMSTERDAM? Milkshake Festival – it is literally open to all and everybody can be whoever the hell they want, and that’s what I stand for. It’s a wild party, everything you can imagine is there. We have our own stage there, and the same weekend we’re launching our own club night: Pussy Wagon at Club Nyx. 7. IS AMSTERDAM HOME TO YOU NOW? Oh yes, I’m definitely here to stay. The US will always be home to me as well, but I’ve been here so long, I don’t feel very connected anymore. There are places here that remind me of California: I lived on NDSM for a while, it’s a weird Venice-meets-Amsterdam kind of place. facebook.com/houseofvineyard instagram.com/ambervineyard

PART III ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

toal

All in the family As a fifth generation breaks into the family business at Amsterdam’s Gassan Diamonds, President-Director Benno Leeser and his children prove it’s not only diamonds that are forever. text Lauren Comiteau

Benno Leeser as a young boy with his grandfather Samuel

t’s only logical that Sean Connery –aka James Bond – came to Amsterdam as a ‘diamond smuggler’ to film Diamonds Are Forever in 1971. Amsterdam has, after all, been one of the world’s diamond capitals for more than 400 years, ever since the first diamond polisher registered in the city’s Chamber of Commerce in 1586. By the 17th century, virtually all the world’s cut diamonds were manufactured in Amsterdam. Historically-speaking then, Gassan Diamonds arrived recently on the scene, with current President-Director Benno Leeser’s grandfather Samuel Gassan founding what was initially a diamond polishing company in 1945. But what it lacked in head start it has more than made up for in reach. Some 70 years later, the company now boasts eight different brands – including Gas-

san Fine Jewelry, Gassan Haute Joaillerie, Gassan 121, Gassan Watches and Choices by DL. The Gassan Group was created to incorporate its many subsidiary companies, including Gassan Schiphol, Gassan Dam Square, Gassan Singapore and its headquarters Gassan Diamonds in the former steam-driven diamond-polishing factory in the city’s historic Jewish quarter. SURVIVOR ‘We are famous for our quality products,’ says Leeser in his football paraphernalia-studded office. ‘People like to buy diamonds in Amsterdam. It’s like buying perfume in Paris, watches in Switzerland and leather in Rome.’ Actually, Gassan’s history pre-dates the end of World War II. ‘Grandfather’ Samuel Gassan learned how to cut diamonds for the Boas brothers – the

Gassan Diamonds’ headquarters and visitors centre

largest company of its kind in the late 19th century – in their factory on Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat in 1924. But by 1942, with the Netherlands under Nazi Occupation, the Jewish Gassan, with a few diamonds stowed in his pockets and shoes, headed to Switzerland to wait out the war years. The diamond trade was dominated by Jews, who were allowed to work in that non-guilded sector. But some 90 percent of the Jewish workforce never made it back from the war. Samuel Gassan was one of the few survivors, and when he returned home in 1945, he went into business for himself. He initially opened a wholesale business in a small room in a much scaleddown Diamantbeurs, or Diamond Exchange. But after an American tourist asked if he could watch Gassan at work, and then proceeded to buy a di-

121 FACETS Twenty-seven languages are spoken in the factory-showroom that’s open 365 days a year. Visitors can watch diamond cutters at work before purchasing jewels and watches at all price levels, including the Gassan 121, the company’s newest diamond cut featuring 121 facets and renown for its brilliance.

ellery is then delivered to the buyer. On-site repairs are open to the public year-round.

amond, Gassan’s sales formula was born. ‘That’s the difference with our shop,’ says Leeser of the method that still works today. ‘We educate people so they know more about diamonds, beginning with a 15-minute talk on polishing and then onto the four C’s: carat, color, clarity and cut.’ It has indeed proven to be a recipe for success: Gassan Diamonds now welcomes 400,000 visitors annually—many of whom arrive by tourist bus or even boat—to the former Boas brothers’ factory where Samuel Gassan learned his trade; Leeser bought it in

1989, completing, the company says, ‘the missing piece of the puzzle.’ Capitalising on its tourist sales base, Gassan expanded into airports beginning in 1967, with a diamond shop at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, where the company now runs 16 shops including three diamond stores, eight watch and jewellery shops, and a Rolex Boutique and Montblanc Boutique. Their tourism-minded sales approach continues in their flagship factory with such perks as a 30-minute production time for those buying gems and settings separately. The finished piece of jew-

WATCH FANATIC ‘I’m very proud of the legacy as the fourth generation,’ says David Bijlsma, Leeser’s son. ‘They say the third generation usually is the toughest one, but in this case, Dad made the company grow tremendously. What’s important in a family company is to leave the business healthy for the next generation.’ While the self-described ‘watch fanatic’ Bijlsma focuses mainly on watches and Gassan Schiphol, as well as overseeing the Singapore airport operations, his younger sister Debora Huisman-Leeser has created the exclusive Choices by DL line, a collection of gem-switching jewellery that has attracted such notable fans as Dutch Princess Marilène, and TV presenter and magazine publisher Linda de Mol. Continuing the family affair is Kitty Leeser, Benno’s wife of four decades, who met him while working in bookkeeping at Gassan’s in the late 1970s and today plays a ‘small role’ buying and selling jewellery for private clients. ‘Working together is always nice,’ says Kitty of her partnership with her husband. ‘But there’s one captain on a ship. I know everything, though, so he can spar with me.’ ‘Dad is the captain, I am the copilot,’ agrees Bijlsma, who works with his father to achieve the firm’s goals. ‘Our company is based on three facets,’ says the ever diamond-minded Leeser. ‘Quality, service until the end, and 100 percent family-owned.’ With Bijlsma’s two teenage children having just signed their first Gassan work contracts, the family’s lustrous legacy is set to continue.

‘Dad is the captain, I am the co-pilot,’ agrees Bijlsma, who works with his father to achieve the firm’s goals.

PART III ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

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Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time.

Open Air Cinema

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This summer, have it both ways. text Bregtje Schudel

DRIJF IN Pampus 3 -5 August pampus.nl FILMS WITH A VIEW: SUNSCREENINGS Pllek Every Tuesday in July and August (weather permitting) pllek.nl WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM 11-12 Aug – Tropenmuseum 12, 18 & 19 Aug – Vondelpark 23-26 Aug – Marie Heinekenplein worldcinemaamsterdam.nl CINEVILLE’S SUMMER TOUR Ons Genoegen & FC Hyena cineville.nl BIJLMERBIOS 25-27 Aug Metro station Kraaiennest facebook.com/Bijlmerbios FLOOR 17 at Ramada Apollo Hotel Every evening (weather permitting) ﬂoor17.nl PLUK DE NACHT 16-26 Aug Stenen Hoofd plukdenacht.nl

t’s a recurring predicament for film lovers during summer. Why hole yourself up in a darkened theatre when the weather is at its best? Thankfully, open-air cinema will let you have your cake and eat it too. Open-air cinemas may come and go, but there’s one you can always count on: Pluk de Nacht, celebrating its 14th edition at Stenen Hoofd, an 18-minute walk from Amsterdam Central Station. Pluk combines the screenings of recent unreleased film gems with music, art, food and even a special blind date night. The free beach chairs are first come-first serve, but you can also ‘adopt’ a chair if you want a guaranteed spot. This year there’s also a tent for when the weather gets really bad, which has its own special programme during the day, including Pluk Mini (for children) and the screenings of previous Pluk festival favourites.

On the other side of the IJ you can watch Films with a View: Sunscreenings from the terrace at Pllek (headphone rental is €5). For a fee, you can go up to the roof of Floor 17 (Ramada Apollo Hotel) for their Rooftop Movie Nights, with nightly screenings of a wide array of art house films and blockbusters. Cineville’s Summer Tour will celebrate the holiday spirit with open-air screenings of films like Spring Breakers and Moonrise Kingdom at Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen and FC Hyena. OFFBEAT LOCATIONS For an urban flavour, head out to Amsterdam-Zuidoost for Bijlmerbios (and its special screening of Oscar winner Moonlight), where the space underneath the overground metro station of Kraaiennest will be transformed into a cinema. It can’t get more idyllic than the Drijf In at Pampus, a

small fortified island at IJmeer, where after a day of playing castaway you can sit back and relax with dinner and a movie. No boat? No problem. There’s also a ferry service from IJburg. Last, but certainly not least is World Cinema Amsterdam, the annual film festival that makes you believe that you don’t need to leave Amsterdam to see the world. The main event is indoors, but the number of open air venues keeps growing, with screenings at Marie Heinekenplein, the Vondelpark open-air theatre and the courtyard of the Tropenmuseum.

highlight

nightlife essentials

Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL

Homo Sapiens

FROM 6 JULY and De Filmhallen EYE eyefilm.nl

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n his non-fiction bestselling book The World Without Us, Alan Weisman theorised what would happen with the world if human beings suddenly ceased to be. How long would it take for nature to reclaim the earth? When would the last evidence of our species turn back into dust? His conclusion: within 500 years, most residential areas will have become forests, while radioactive waste, plastics and Mount Rushmore will hold out the longest. Whatever mess we make of it, nature will overcome and carry on. It’s a thought that is strangely comforting. Still, there’s a disquieting fascination in seeing the deserted airports, theme parks and other man-made structures in Homo Sapiens, the latest documentary by director Nikolaus Geyrhalter (Our Daily Bread). In long static shots Geyrhalter shows us what remains when no one is left, from a deserted town near Fukushima to a plundered Soviet temple in Bulgaria, spaces both desolate and hauntingly beautiful. Even more alienating than the absence of humans is the absence of human sound. No machines, no cars, no shouting, no laughter – only the near-constant drip-drip-dripping of water and the occasional bird. Still, Geyrhalter wouldn’t necessarily call the movie non-fiction. It works both as a documentary and as science fiction, a mesmerising record of a time gone by and a tantalising glimpse into a possible future. It’s The World Without Us made tangible. Homo Sapiens is part of ‘Previously Unreleased’, a selection of films that did well at the film festivals but couldn’t find their way to Dutch theatres. Other titles include The Edge of Seventeen (with Woody Harrelson and Hailee Steinfeld), Certain Women (by Kelly Reichhardt) and Safari, a scathing documentary on big game hunting by Ulrich Seidl. Most films come with English subtitles.

(at ‘Previously Unreleased’)

While it’s not just nightlife per se as this amazing festival goes on during the day as well, it’s well deserving of featuring in the Essentials. Clubbing masters Paradiso and AIR collaborate to throw this fabulous, anything-goes dance-music festival that brings all the boys and the girls – and everybody else – to the Westerpark. Honouring tolerance, liberalism and diversity is at the forefront of this grooveand love-loving festival, which also boasts a stellar and eclectic line-up on its many different stages – including Erwin Olaf, Supertoys, Now&Wow, Pakhaus Berlin and House of Vineyard (see page 31). Festivalgoers embrace the rainbow side of life, dressing to excess and to impress. 29-30 JULY Westerpark  milkshakefestival.com

gust – a great selection of talents to suit every jazz palate out there. VARIOUS DATES Op Zeezand Building Johan van Hasseltweg 39  on-the-roof.com

ENCORE Still a relative newcomer on the urban festival scene, Encore is one that’s not likely to go anywhere over the next few years. While people tend to come for party vibes rather than headliners, securing big names is nevertheless a specialty of the Melkweg-associated organisers. Notable performers on this year’s bill include US hip-hop trio Migos (know for their hit ‘Versace’), much hyped Dutch rapper Jonna Fraser and Stefflon Don, a very exciting British female MC who grew up in Rotterdam. 19 AUGUST NDSM Wharf  encorefestival.nl

PRINSENGRACHT CONCERT

ARTIS ZOOMERAVONDEN

Every year, for one night only, a grand concert stage is built on the Prinsengracht, and tens of thousands of spectators revel in the magical, fairy-lit classical performances from the open-air tribunes, the streets and bridges, (rented) boats or their own balcony – or even the Internet, as the event is livestreamed. Started in 1981 by Hans Duijf and Theo Inniger of Hotel Pulitzer, this wonderful event has become the most watched classical music concert on TV. 19 AUGUST Prinsengracht/Reestraat  prinsengrachtconcert.nl

On Saturday evenings throughout summer, party animals in Artis gather expectantly in their enclosures. Yup, ZOOmeravonden (’Summer Evenings‘) at Artis Royal Zoo let visitors learn what the animals get up to after hours by staying open until sunset every Saturday from June through to August. There’s plenty of activities for families and also live music performances for adult crowds. EVERY SATURDAY JUNE TO AUGUST Artis  artis.nl

BUSTA RHYMES

It's been a while since this rap legend paid a visit to the ON THE ROOF Netherlands, but his eccentric The roof terrace of the Op style, fast-paced MCing and Zeezand building in Noord use of internal rhyme have has incredible views over warranted an unwavering fan the IJ River and Central Sta- base. With nine solo albums tion – the perfect location and another in the works for this sixth edition of their (plus his recent reappearance series of fantastic ‘On The with A Tribe Called Quest), Roof’ jazz concerts. This sea- there’ll be plenty of hits to son’s programme includes pick from in this late-night Zapp4 Plays Nirvana on 14 gig. and 15 July, Tiltan on 28 15 JULY July, Xavi Torres Trio on 11 Paradiso  August, and Shishani & The paradiso.nl Namibian Tales on 25 Au-

e f rt

FIRST PART UP CLOSE

ADMIRE THE ART OF DIAMOND POLISHING IN AMSTERDAM Gassan Diamonds, is located in a beautiful restored originally steam driven diamond factory and was built in 1879. In 2013 more than 400.000 visitors had a tour through the magnificent diamond factory and in 2013 Gassan also has been declared Best Family Business in the Netherlands by the Family Enterprise Foundation in partnership with KPMG. Let a tour of Gassan Diamonds be the highlight of your trip; - free guided tours - tours 7 days a week, all year round from 9.00 a.m. till 5.00 p.m. - personal attention for individuals and groups - exclusive in-house Rolex boutique - diamonds mounted while you wait - large jewelry and watch collection on premises with brands such as Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Omega, Choices by DL and Gassan 121 - parking for tour buses and mooring site - VAT refund for non EU residents To arrange your tour, visit our website: www.gassan.com Gassan 121 More than 10 years ago, at the family operated Gassan Diamonds, perfecting the brilliant cut (also known as the Amsterdam Cut) resulted in the development of a breathtaking new cut with 121 facets: the Gassan 121. Following years of research, a new breathtaking cut for a diamond with 121 facets for the pinnacle in reflection was finally developed. Compared with the traditional brilliant cut, the Gassan 121 has an additional 16 facets on the top and an additional 48 facets on the underside of the diamond. The result is the ultimate in brilliance. In other words: perfect beauty.

www.gassan.com

jul & aug 2017

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘THE AMSTERDAMSE BOS’ DESIGNERS FOUND A GREAT BALANCE, WITH 1/3 GRASS, 1/3 WOODS, AND 1/3 WATER’ Annemieke Stevenhagen loves her job as a park ranger

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: AMSTERDAMSE BOS & NIEUWE MEER EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE COLUMN

SAFARI LODGE This Zandvoort beach club with a South-African flavour has a creative kitchen with fresh (and largely organic) produce and flavourful dishes with a twist – such as their vegetarian yellow curry in coconut milk, or white fish wrapped in banana leaves with a shallot, red pepper and curry purée. They organise ‘Safari Sessions’: live music performances by young artists, together with vinyl-spinning DJs who play golden oldies in a bright orange caravan. When the sun is down and the bonfires are lit, you can ask for free marshmallows at the bar while getting a refill of their delicious cocktails. On 12 August, they throw a junglethemed festival, Festifari, with African house and tropical disco – and of course an abundance of scrumptious food. Boulevard Paulus Loot 2, Zandvoort safarilodge.nl instagram @safarilodgezandvoort

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

hd ath

AMSTERDAMSE BOS & NIEUWE MEER

ANNEMIEKE STEVENHAGEN Park ranger

‘The Amsterdamse Bos designers went around the world and stole all the best park designs.’

Wooded coves, tranquil ponds, and physical or cultural activities: the green abode of the Amsterdamse Bos dwarfs the other city parks, and not just in size. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock

Tnto the woods

t the southern tip of Amsterdam – in really what should be considered Amstelveen already, but that the city greedily and proudly claims as its own – lies a thousand hectares of lush, enchanting nature that admonish the neighbouring airport and business district of Zuidas to quit it already, with all that noise and concrete. A thousand hectares: that’s three times the size of Central Park, New York City’s lung, for just a tenth of the Big Apple’s population. What’s most impressive about the Amsterdamse Bos (literally, the ‘Amsterdam woods’) is that it wasn’t carved out of an existing forest; it was entirely man-made, every tree planted by hand. The gargantuan park is the love child of a marriage of reason. In the early 20th century, the municipality needed to fulfil two needs: the creation of a green space in a growing urban environment, and putting its record number of unemployed residents to work. With nothing but wheelbarrows and shovels, 20,000 labourers started construction in 1934. ‘It took a lot of sweat and tears’, says Annemiek Stevenhagen, one of the seven Bos Wachters (park rangers) who look after the rich green expanse. She explains that the Bos’ architects, Jakoba Mulder and Cornelis van

Eesteren, travelled to European capitals to pick inspiration from their parks’ best features. So far Amsterdam parks had been dedicated to quiet and proper Sunday strolls, but what Mulder and Van Eesteren discovered in London were… people walking or sitting on the grass. Crazy! Of the English landscape style, they stole the natural look of the park: rolling meadows fringed by curved wooded groves, quaint winding streams and graceful ponds, and sprawling views that allow wanderers to feel peacefully surrounded by nature. According to Stevenhagen, ‘they found a great balance, with 1/3 grass, 1/3 woods, and 1/3 water.’ From Germany, which likes to pack its parks with activities, they got the idea ‘to keep the more crowded spots (such as the farms, cafés and sporting facilities) along one central axis,’ says Stevenhagen, so they wouldn’t encroach too much on the green. ALL FUN AND GAMES And a boatload of activites there are, especially in summertime. While the Bos is large enough that you can easily spend the day strolling through woods or grasslands, surrounded by wild flowers and animals, or picnicking by a quiet pond, or riding a bike (or even a horse) along its shaded

EAT,CLOSE DRINK & CHIC PART III UP

hd ath

‘On a warm day you can swim in most ponds and lakes and there are clean wading pools for the littlest ones’

BOSWINKEL The official nerve centre of the park, the Boswinkel is better than a visitor centre: of course they’ll give you all the information you need, and hand you maps and detailed walking routes. They also have a shop with lovely items, from nature-related toys to frisbees and organic honey, and they often organise exhibitions around the shop with works from local art students. But their foremost purpose is education, and through them you can schedule urban-safari tours with the rangers, on foot or bike or even by boat; some tours are especially tailored for children, with treasure hunts and examinations of the forest’s creepy-crawlies. They also rent ‘Bosmobiels’ for people with disabilities, so that everyone can enjoy the park at their leisure.

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Bosbaanweg 5 amsterdamsebos.nl

meandering paths – sometimes crossing a stream or meadow but nary a soul – you can also fill a week’s worth with sporty endeavours. (You can even spend that week without ever leaving the park, as it is home to a camping ground that accommodates adventurous backpackers just as well as those who require more creature comforts with cabins.) Soccer and even hockey fields abound, as well as running paths – and horse enthusiasts can trot and jump to their heart’s content at one of the two maneges. You can also play tennis and squash, or do fitness and yoga at swanky Spa Zuiver at the north-western edge of the woods. The famous Bosbaan, which is 2.2km long, held its first regatta in 1937, and it has hosted the World Rowing Championships twice, in 1977 and in 2014. For the more adventurous at heart, there’s also Fun Forest, an entire section of the park dedicated to tree-climbing with some heart-stopping challenges. As for the water, it’s not just been cast for its good looks. North of the park lies the Nieuwe Meer, a great lake bordered by wide spreads of beach and tiny sandy alcoves, where you can indulge in a vast array of watersports, from sailing (zeilschoolhetnieuwemeer.nl) to windsurfing (amsterdamwindsurfing.nl) and stand-up paddling (supenmeer.nl). In the Bos itself, not only do the rangers offer ‘urban safari-style’ tours (ask the receptionist at the Boswinkel), you can also rent your own canoe or pedalboat at Kanoverhuur, or an electric boat (disguised as a police- or lifeboat) for the kids at Miniport. On a warm day you can swim in most ponds and lakes, which are often enhanced by games such a pull-ropes or wooden pillars, and there are even clean wading pools (kinderbad) for the littlest ones, with babycare facilities on hand.

> SPA SPORT HOTEL ZUIVER One of the largest and best spas in Amsterdam, Zuiver features a big indoor/outdoor swimming pool that sprawls all the way outside. They have a slew of different whirlpools, saunas and steam baths, and even a salt caldarium and colour-therapy room. As well as the heavenly treatments (massages, facials, hammam, waxing, etc), they also have a fabulous fitness centre, a hotel and a restaurant. Koenenkade 8 zuiveramsterdam.nl

KANOVERHUUR

Grote Speelweide 5 kanoverhuur-adam.nl

The park features miles of waterways to explore, and whether you’re on your own or with your family – or even your entire company – Kanoverhuur offers a wide range of boats for rent, including canoes, pedal boats and electric boats. It’s a wonderful experience and you only wish it could last longer. PS: The line can get bad on warm weekend days, so get there early to secure your vessel of choice, seven days a week, March to October.

AMSTERDAMSE BOS THEATRE Nestled among a cove of trees lies the bare-bones but enchanting amphitheatre of this cultural staple of the Bos, which puts on great performances throughout the summer. The main attraction this year is their production of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, but they also have concerts (such as Alex Vargas on 20 August) but the real treat is their ‘Little Theatre’ that puts on shows for kids. De Duizendmeterweg 7 bostheater.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

hd ath

FUN FOREST AMSTERDAM Remember the days you climbed trees as a kid? This is it, but multiplied by 10 in thrills, height and prowess. Their nine climbing tracks take you up the tallest trunks to wooden platforms, where you can test your fear of heights with challenges such as rope walking, ziplines, swings, and even bungee jumping. Some of the easier tracks are accessible to younger children, but most are reserved to 8+, and the Black Gorilla Trail is so tough that you must be over 14. But no worries – you’ll use protective gear and wear helmets, and their staff is on hand to supervise. Bosbaanweg 3 amsterdam.funforest.nl

BOERDERIJ MEERZICHT

AAN DE POEL

Look no further for the best pannenkoeken (‘pancakes’) in Amsterdam: this sprawling farm at the northern end of the Bos has a great ‘do it yourself’ buffet, but it’d be a crime not to enjoy one of their amazing Dutch pancakes layered with savoury bits such as ham, cheese and mushrooms, roasted pineapple with bacon, or – if you’ve got a sweet tooth to indulge – fresh fruits with whipped cream. There’s also lots for the kids to do in the big playground while you wait for your fare – and after your meal, have a stroll in their orchard or go meet their baby deer (born in June) and beautiful peacocks.

The Bos boasts its own two-star Michelin restaurant, which serves imaginative, seasonal marvels such as marinated lobster with bacon or grilled Wagyu beef with confit of watermelon. Don’t even get me started on the desserts - it’s like Sophie’s choice, but with caramel soufflés and Tarte Tatin instead of children. Their sommelier offers a great selection of more than 600 wines, from connoisseurs’ classics to the more adventurous. Their lovely, flowery garden terrace overlooks the water of the Bos’ largest lake, the Poel. The best part is that they’re also open for lunch.

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Koenenkade 56 boerderijmeerzicht.nl

Handweg 1, Amstelveen aandepoel.nl

MINIPORT WORLD Time for the kids to steer: Miniport rents out sturdy and fun electric boats that look just like police- and lifeboats or even cruise ships, and which can hold up to four people. The children get to wear a captain’s (or mermaid!) outfit complete with hat, and can invite all their friends for special events and birthday parties which feature treasure hunts and other fun games. The whole surrounding area is great for kids, with a beach, pontoons, pull-ropes and wooden pillars to make the most of the lake.

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De Duizendmeterweg 4 miniportworld.com/amsterdam

LISA AND HANNAH LOHEIDENIESMANN, 23 AND 17 students

‘It’s so nice to have so much nature and water when you live in the city. You can swim in the lakes, and walk or bike around the woods. It feels like a real break from urban life.’

JAYA KRAMER, 5

with mother Gwen, and sisters Ella and Evangeline

‘There is no wolf here, nor fairies. But it’s still awesome and very relaxing, because you can walk on the logs.’

GEITENBOERDERIJ RIDAMMERHOEVE Located smack in the centre of the forest, this huge farm/ petting zoo boasts goats, pigs, chickens and cows, which is especially a delight for kids as they can bottlefeed the baby goats. The farm uses its goat’s milk to make cheese, yoghurt and other dairy products (even ice cream!), which they sell in their shop, and they also hold workshops to teach you the craft. The organic vegetable farm supplies their lovely restaurant which sports a huge terrace and playground. And they offer goat yoga classes, the ultimate path to relaxation and enlightenment! Nieuwe Meerlaan 4 geitenboerderij.nl

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THE WILD LIFE Children of all ages will also enjoy the petting farms where you can pet and feed goats and pigs, pick apples, and eat platefuls of pannenkoeken (‘pancakes’). Tamed animals are not the only kind you’ll encounter at the park, though: the Bos is teeming with wildlife, from grass snakes, hedgehogs and bats, to foxes and even Scottish Highland cattle with their impressive pointy horns (a word of advice from Stevenhagen: ‘It’s not a great idea to sit your newborn on the cows’). According to her, and young visitor Jaya Kramer (5) who double-checked, there are no wolves in the park – nor fairies. What a bummer. ‘The animals aren’t too happy about the noise and crowds brought on by the festivals, but we always double-check afterwards that no harm was done’, says Stevenhagen. Because in addition to the gorgeous nature and incredible array of fun activities, the Bos is also home to a host of great musical or cultural events throughout the year, such as the Bacchus Wijnfestival or Cherry Blossom Festival in spring, or the Drago Boat Race in autumn. The enchanting Bos

Theatre, its outdoors amphitheatre hidden among a lush cove of trees, has a full programme of great productions going on all summer. Also coming up in the next couple of months are big electro blow-outs A Day at the Park (15 July) and Dekmantel (4-6 August), which take place in the southernmost part of the park on the Festival Terrein, one of the wildest areas of the park (it’s also where the best bird-watching spots are found.) If you attend any of the festivals, or simply come to the park for a visit, be respectful of its non-human residents, ‘even if sometimes there’s a good side to people’s curiosity about the animals,’ adds Stevenhagen. ‘Last year, a festival visitor found a family of long-eared owls who’d dropped their nest and he called us immediately, so we were able to save them.’ She couldn’t think of a more fulfilling job, she beams, even after 17 years. ‘The Bos is such a unique, beautiful, peaceful spot.’

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

ag ut

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

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Roelof Hartstraat 1 thecollegehotel.com/ferillis

NEW

While many Amsterdam restaurants do the Italian thing, few do it as well, or as stylishly as this new high-end eatery by Italian-born entrepreneur Carlo Ferilli, who’s also behind the popular George bistro chain and various boutiques. Located in a restored 19th-century school with a Neo-Renaissance facade, the ristorante continues the tradition of developing talent here as a training centre for catering students. Every detail has been carefully considered in the understated interior: from the stone Travertine floor tiles to the vintage mirror walls, hand-crafted furniture in subtle shades of olive, and lamps of Venetian glass and antique brass. And there’s a terrific garden terrace, too. Executive Chef Donatella Zampoli (ex-Cantinetta Antinori, ex-Mas del Saugo) serves up sophisticated Italian staples on all-white porcelain plates. Her ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers (€17) are an unadulterated delight, while there’s a rich, almost-meaty savour to her seafood spaghetti with lobster, mussels, razor clams and baby octopus (€28). Simplicity itself, the cotolette alla Milanese (breaded veal cutlets, €26), served with wilted spinach and velvety potato puree, are impossibly light and non-greasy. Formaggio served at the perfect temperature from an old-school cheese trolley – the elderflower goat’s cheese and the DOP basket cheese from Piemonte are particularly good – is the ultimate end to a meal here, along with a piping cup of Buscaglione espresso with homemade jam cookies that simply melt away. Ferilli’s is open for lunch and dinner, with all-day patisserie and Italian aperitivo.

FERILLI’S

43 trendy BAR FISK The Israeli kitchen – that melting pot of Middle Eastern flavours – seems to be popping in De Pijp. Following veggiemagnets Mana Mana and Sir Hummus, the latest from the region brings the hustle and bustle of Tel Aviv street market eateries to Amsterdam, with a menu of fresh, affordable fish dishes, cocktails and desserts bursting with zest and zing, and available ‘til late. The pan-fried sea bream rubbed with green herbs, coriander seed and spices, with spinach, almonds and strained yoghurt (€13.50) is a must-try. And do order the impossibly fluffy semolina cake, which is soaked in orange flower syrup and served with marmalade, buttermilk foam and pistachio nuts (€5) or, in fact, any dessert here. Eerste Sweelinckstraat 23 barfisk.nl

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critic’s choice RON GASTROBAR INDONESIA

hile Javanese chef Agus Hermawan’s traditional rijsttafel (‘rice table’) at Blauw was already the stuff of legend, his next-level cooking at Ron Blaauw’s Indonesian restaurant really lives up to that extra ‘a’. Highlights of a recent meal included a wonton wrapper taco with Balinese chicken and coconut-galangal mayo, a creative twist on the popular street food (€7.50); a riff on Indonesia’s own proud babi guling tradition with VOC-spice-rubbed pork belly, slow cooked and served with an atjar foam (€15); and spekkoek-flavoured crème brulee (€7.50). Of course, there are oldstyle rijsttafels and an awesome Amstel-facing terrace, too.

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Amstelzijde 51 Amstelveen Ouderkerk aan de Amstel rongastrobarindonesia.nl

classic JANSZ

quick & simple JAPANESE PANCAKE WORLD For authentic okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese pancakes) head over to this Jordaan-based specialist, where you’ll find three regional varieties: Osaka-style with mountain potato puree; the multi-layered Hiroshima pancake with egg and noodles; and Kobe-style Negiyaki with spring onions. The simpler the better; the negiyaki with mushrooms (€14.50) packs an umami punch without the heft of some fully-loaded versions. Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 24A japanesepancakeworld.com

Named after a 17th-century copper craftsman, who once owned the building, there’s artisanal attention to detail in the elegant decor with its moss green banquettes, marble tables and coppery accents. And, in Executive Chef Cassidy Hallman’s new menu, which shows off skills honed in New York at contemporary Japanese, French and Italian titans Momofuku, Bouley and Gelso & Grand. From nouveau-Niçoise with seared tuna, quail eggs, anchovy-artichoke cream and olive crumbs (€15) to miso-glazed cod with Asian greens in dashi bouillon (€28) and strawberry-basil crème brulee (€7), the food, wine and service here now complement their chic surroundings.

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Reestraat 8 janszamsterdam.com

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

Outdoor Eateries

Deliciously Vegan

Foodie Festivals

BRASSERIE OCCO

THE MEETS EATERY

A comely hidden courtyard terrace, with plenty of shade and views of The Dylan hotel’s elegant 18th-century architecture, coupled with 5-star service and reliable brasserie favourites, such as salmon tartare, Caesar salad and steak frites, mean you can’t go wrong at Brasserie Occo, which shares a kitchen and Executive Chef (Dennis Kuipers) with much-praised Michelin-starred Vinkeles.

Light, bright and easy to digest, the vegan rice paper rolls with raw veg, avocado and rice noodles at this attractive vegetarian restaurant come with a punchy peanut ginger dipping sauce that left us wanting more. There are also breakfast bowls, vegan croissants, Mexican veggie burgers, soups, salads and more.

TREK FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL

Keizersgracht 384 occo.nl

HOFTUIN Surrounded by the Hermitage Museum and the Protestant Diaconie Amsterdam, is a hidden haven with a sunny terrace, healthy lunch meals and a noble cause. One of 20 non-profits in the courtyard, Hoftuin helps the homeless and displaced with jobs, and its food reflects that ethos, with organic, fair trade, local ingredients, many of which are grown right outside. Nieuwe Herengracht 18A hoftuin.com

MR. PORTER Join the cool crowd at this glitzy rooftop lounge terrace, which offers a splash pool and unparalleled views of the Royal Palace, a wealth of dry-aged steaks and delicious bar bites, such as homemade focaccia with tomato, mozzarella and olives; pan-fried baby squid; and bulghur with herbs and persimmon wrapped in lettuce. Spuistraat 175 mrportersteakhouse.com

Cornelis Troostplein 3 themeets.nl

MASTINO V While this Italian pizzeria’s original De Pijp outpost has long offered multigrain, spelt and soya takes on their traditional wood-oven pizza, their latest venture in West is fully focused on vegan and gluten-free fare, with options such as the ‘New Vegan’ with shaved potato, courgette flowers, sun-dried tomatoes, vegan cheese and truffle oil (from €16.90). Bilderdijkstraat 192 mastinopizza.nl

CROPBOX This handy service delivers their plant-based, gluten-free lunchboxes by bike (TuesThurs only). A recent order of colourful ‘Chinese chow fun noodles with bok choi, mange tout, caramelised ginger, spring onion and white sesame; kung pao crispy tempeh and chestnut mushrooms; sweet and sour baked cauliflower, raw carrots, mint and a bangin’ Asian dressing’ passed our taste test (€9, incl. delivery). cropbox.nl

This free-entry(!) travelling food festival has its Amsterdam’s layover in leafy Amstelpark, where foodies with a fondness for moveable feasts can sink their teeth into a wide range of vegetarian delights, Surinamese roti, ‘tasty insects’ or Dutch specialty beers from various food trucks, while enjoying live music, kids activities and theatre performances. 14-16 July Amstelpark festival-trek.nl

HAPPY SUSHI FESTIVAL If sushi’s your happy place, stop by this festival dedicated to all things fishy, where chefs from 50 sushi restaurants will show off their latest creations at the sunny beach of Blijburg. You can listen to a mixed musical line-up while burying your feet (and worries) in the sand. Tickets from €34.

28-29 July Blijburg aan Zee facebook.com/happysushifestival

PLANET OEDIPUS MUSIC & BEER FESTIVAL This new beer and music festival from the hop heads behind the Kimchi Festival and last year’s Oedipus International Beer Festival boasts a line-up of breweries from ten countries, including Estonia, Norway and China, live music and ‘food from around the world’. 12-13 August NoordOogst, Meteorenweg 272 oedipus.com/festival

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MURALS Wonder walls

n an era of bleak news and blackand-white thinking, it’s perhaps no surprise that the vibrant art form once known as graffiti has made the jump from the curbside to the tableside, bringing a splash of colour to Amsterdam’s bars and restaurants. Over 200K’s worth of wall-sized murals by big-name street artists such as The London Police, Ben Eine and D*Face have dramatically altered the look of former bank buildingturned-bar, De Bajes, off Rembrandt Square, where you’ll also find cocktails, some 15 types of gin, and over 40 varieties of craft beer. After a long love affair with upcoming artists, the latest location of popular pop-up concept Baut Paradijs features a ninemetre-high Adam & Eve mural by

local street artist Judith de Leeuw, symbolising the Biblical characters who populated ‘Paradise’. And, at Graham’s Kitchen, a hidden gastronomic gem in De Pijp, there’s a cheerful mural combining elements from the two cities that most inspire the affordable fine dining found here: Amsterdam and Liverpool, the friendly chef-owner’s hometown. DE BAJES Utrechtsestraat 11 naardebajes.nl BAUT PARADIJS Paradijsplein 1 bautamsterdam.nl GRAHAM’S KITCHEN Hemonystraat 38 grahamskitchen.amsterdam

FIRST PART

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PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Imke Walenberg

WOLFWARE

NEW IN TOWN

ne year ago, styling agency Wolf Produkties launched their own brand WolfWare, the brain child of two talented stylists. Initially it was simply a pop-up store, wandering through the city. But it has now found a permanent home, in the shape of a stylish boutique smack in the middle of the energetic Utrechtsestraat. The interior matches their collection: a quaint, nostalgic

vintage collage, mixed with modern graphics. The best way to describe this Amsterdambased brand is as ‘an eclectic (re)mix of clothing and interior accessories’. Everything looks very sophisticated, but with a certain edge and an eye for details that are a bit tongue-incheek – such as a scarf adorned with a print of a bull terrier, or necklaces with a snake pendant. The collection of clothes, accessories, gifts and interior items gets updated every week, so you

know that you’ll score new items every time you visit the shop. Think matchboxes with a vintage print, warm plaids and oversized shirts. If you like items of great quality peppered with fun details, WolfWare will definitely be on your list of favourites.

Utrechtsestraat 24 wolfware.nl

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bellissimo 1 AMSTERDAM The Italians are known for their perfect sense of style, while the Dutch… not quite. That’s why an Italian family with 30 years of experience in fashion felt it was time to give Dutch fashion a boost, and opened 1 Amsterdam, a one-stopshop specialised in menswear. They are located in the Cornelis Schuytstraat, a high-end street that reflects the look and feel of the shop. Everything is authentic, from the interior to the selection of brands, such as shoes from Buttero and shirts from Aglini.

wet & wild RAIN COUTURE Summer in the Netherlands means you never know what to expect of the weather. The sun can shine for days, but those can easily be replaced by rain and cold – sometimes in a matter of hours. So, what to wear? And above all: how to be fashionable in this kind of climate? The perfect solution is to buy a 100% waterproof, four-season raincoat or rain jacket from Rain Couture. This shop – which sells fashionable rain gear like trenchcoats, bomber jackets and even good-looking parkas – is in the trendy neighbourhood of the Nine Streets, so go shopping and let it rain!

Cornelis Schuytstraat 19 1-amsterdam.nl

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Huidenstraat 32 rain-couture.nl

bright and beautiful PEK & KLEREN ‘Small Warehouse’ is probably the best way to describe Pek & Kleren. Freya and Marike opened their shop a year and a half ago in one of the most emerging districts of Amsterdam, Noord. At Pek & Kleren you can shop around while enjoying a tasty cup of coffee. Besides ladies’ and men’s clothes they also sell shoes, jewellery, home accessories, gift items, plants and even laundry detergent. Van der Pekstraat 56-58 pek-en-kleren.nl

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MUSEUM TIPS amsterdammusea.org

Martin Scorsese - The exhibition

The first major exhibition to focus on Martin Scorsese’s work, life and passion is now on show in Amsterdam. EYE Filmmuseum, till 3 September

The Jewish Jukebox

Go on a musical journey of discovery through pop culture, featuring records that changed lives and the technology that made it happen. Jewish Historical Museum, till 7 January

Gordon Parks - I am You

The American photographer Gordon Parks (1912-2006) used photography to expose the deep divisions in American society. Foam, till 6 September

museumtips halve pagina a-mag Augustus.indd 1

Journey in Time

Step back into the history of Amsterdam and the House of Orange. De Nieuwe Kerk, from 15 July till 27 August

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

07-06-17 15:48

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home.

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text Imke Walenberg

CARHARTT WIP

CONCRETE

Carhartt, the well-known brand of jeans and jackets, just opened their second store in Amsterdam. The brand new shop is situated in a beautiful charachteristic building on Utrechtsestraat. As well as being able to shop here for everything fashion, did you know they also sell gadgets like a cute portable radio and mugs?

At Concrete you can not only shop for fashion, but also for music and art – a perfect combination, if you ask me. The brands they represent are both known and unknown, which means you’ll find Adidas sneakers alongside arty shirts by Human Made. The fun thing about this shop is that they also have a section which is called ‘the vault’, where you can find treasures from the stockroom. Not the newest items, but it definitely contains some gems.

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Hartenstraat 18 Utrechtsestraat 99 carhartt-wip.com/en

Spuistraat 250 concrete.nl

BIG & BELG You’ll covet everything at Big & Belg, a beautiful shop for kids’ clothes and toys. If you want to make sure your kid is the coolest dude(tte) in school, this is the place for you. It’s also a great shop for gifts – a right toy-Valhalla. Currently, there are two Big & Belg locations, one in Old West and one in De Pijp. Ferdinand Bolstraat 168 Jan Pieter Heijestraat 83 bigenbelg.nl

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PRJCT AMS

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THE PELICAN STUDIO With pink details galore, The Pelican Studio makes you feel like you’ve just stepped into 1980s Miami. The shop stocks a mix of European high-end and streetwear fashion brands, shoes (like sneakers from Won Hunderd), accessories, jewellery, perfumes and beauty products. They also have a pop-up shop that constantly changes to create a unique selection for men and women. Raadhuisstraat 35 thepelicanstudio.com

NORDIC NEW The name says it all: Nordic New focuses on interior products with that well-known and popular Scandinavian touch. That means you can shop for a designer sofa by high-end brand Muuto, wall decorations by Kay Bojesen and relatively affordable rugs from Asplund. You can literally redesign your entire home with their beautiful selection – at a price, but one that’s worth every cent. Rozengracht 196 nordicnew.nl

The thing that makes PRJCT AMS unique is the fact that they have their own production facility so they can give talented designers the opportunity to create their own garments. Thanks to their efforts, the collections you find at PRJCT AMS are created by collaborations between designers, creative people and entrepreneurs of various industries in fashion, photography, music, jewellery, art and more. Gasthuismolensteeg 18 prjctams.com

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CIRCLE OF TRUST Circle Of Trust is (almost) all about denim. The brand is inspired by influences from all over the world and one of their main goals is to create affordable denim that everyone can wear. Whether you’re a man or a woman, a boy or a girl, this is where you’ll find your perfect pair of jeans. Ferdinand Bolstraat 47 circleoftrust.nl

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MIUSE Marie Stella Maris water, Cluse watches and romantic, flattering dresses from Des Petits Hauts: this is just the tip of the items-iceberg that you‘ll find at concept store Miuse. The shop moved to larger premises on the cosy Nine Streets last April, and thanks to the extra space, they added a Miuse Café and a Kids Corner to their offering. Runstraat 25 miuse.nl

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PART III ADVERTORIAL

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You’ll be surprised at how much of Amsterdam and the surrounding region you can see with your I amsterdam City Card. Get out of town AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT Located in Muiden to the east of Amsterdam, Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot’s legacy dates all the way back to 1280 when Count Floris V commissioned the construction of a stone fortress on the grounds. Part of the UNESCOlisted Defence Line of Amsterdam, the enchanting castle and gardens are a surefire hit with visitors of all ages.

TSAR NICHOLAS II AND TSAREVICH ALEXEI, C. 1910 © GARF, STATE ARCHIVE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION, MOSCOW

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HERMITAGE MUSEUM 1917. ROMANOVS & REVOLUTION Until 17 September

For the 100th anniversary of the Russian Revolution, the Hermitage Museum is putting on a monumental exhibition that retraces the steps of a 300-year-old monarchy’s demise. 250 items are on display, including documents that show how the Tsar’s decisions led to the uprising, as well as intimate belongings of the imperial couple, such as clothes and artwork. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

HORTUS BOTANICUS AMSTERDAM Hortus Botanicus, founded in 1638 as a herb garden for medicinal purposes, is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. It became the repository of the floral treasures brought back by Dutch explorers during the Golden Age (including King Willem III’s extensive collection), where their tantalising exotic beauties were not only admired but also studied by scientists. Today Hortus is home to some 6,000 plant species exhibited in its gardens and magnificent greenhouses. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • A free canal cruise and more 24hrs €57 / 48hrs €67 / 72hrs €77 / 96hrs €87

The I amsterdam City Card is available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see iamsterdam.com/citycard.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

FERRY EXPERIENCE If you would like to visit Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot, it’s possible to take the morning boat from Amsterdam (departure from IJburg) via Fort Island Pampus to Muiden with the Amsterdam Tourist Ferry (Veerdienst Amsterdam), or from Muiden to Fort Island Pampus (return). The ferry ride boasts magnificent views over the water. 25% discount with your I amsterdam City Card on the ferry trip Amsterdam–Muiden, and on the ferry trip & entrance to Fort Island Pampus. Visit pampus.nl and veerdienstamsterdam.nl for ferry dates and timetables.

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam, and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. iamsterdam.com/citycard

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hn in tram…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

SCOOPY-POO

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

hen I moved to Amsterdam 15 years ago, I felt justified having so many pairs of shoes. I calculated that you actually needed 365 pairs, one for every day of the year, as the likelihood of stepping in dog poop on any given day was higher than getting your bicycle stolen. Seriously, the stuff was ubiquitous. Coming from New York, ground zero of pooper scooper laws, I couldn’t fathom how such a tidy nation could let its pooches defecate with abandon on the city’s streets. In NY, you’d be publicly shamed for such neglect, but no social contract seemed to exist on this side of the Atlantic between dog owners and the larger walking public. Or cyclists. Once when I was late for work, I ran to unlock my bicycle only to find that a dog with very big bowels had beat me to it, depositing his waste with canine precision right on top of my lock’s keyhole. I didn’t blame the hound, but I left some choice words for its owners nailed to a nearby tree. And then proceeded to miss my train. It seems that the city has indeed had pooper scooper laws on its books which pre-date the 1990s, although it’s arguable that no one started abiding by them until much more recently. It’s not hard to see why: The fines for ‘dog pollution’, or hondenpoep, which range from €45 to €700 depending on the age and

status of the dog walker and the infraction, don’t seem to be much by way of deterrent. Since 2015, the number of tickets the city has given out for the offence is a whopping 33. Things have gotten better over the past decade. Today there are poop bags for the taking in all the city’s parks. Still, Gerben Lievers, co-founder of Tinki.nl, a Dutch website that offers price comparisons for canine needs, says the prevalent poop remains ‘not only inconvenient to step in, but a health issue too. Humans and dogs can get sick if there is a lot of poo’. To draw attention to the problem, Tinki.nl created a ‘joke with a twist’: two Dogdrones that were to allegedly use cameras and thermal energy technology to locate the stuff (Watchdog 1) and then send a ground drone (Patroldog 1) to clean it up. In reality, Dogdrone was a publicity-seeking April Fool’s gag – but one that did indeed garner international coverage of the larger problem of canine waste. Lievers says technology could be the answer to the Netherlands’ 1.5 million-dog poop problem in the future. But until that day, keep your eyes on the ground and indulge your inner shoe fetish.

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AMSTER DAM GIFTS

PART IV

THE

jul & aug 2017

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see iamsterdam.com

JULIDANS For dance lovers, this contemporary dance festival needs little introduction. But if you’re new to daring, cutting-edge choreographies, Julidans is the perfect place to start, so embark on 11 days of groundbreaking performances from homegrown and international talents, hosted by seven different venues, ranging from the imposing Great Hall of the Stadsschouwburg to the tree-framed open-air stage of the Vondelpark. The festival’s 27th edition includes (among many others) Bettrofenheit, directed by Crystal Pite and Jonathon Young, which just won Best New Dance Production at the Olivier Award; 7even, a collaboration of seven choreographers who view the human body as inspiration and a power source directing top dancers from the Ballet National de Marseille and ICK Amsterdam in many different ways; and a modern, experimental take on Gisele by the Balletto di Roma.

4-15 JULY various locations, Amsterdam julidans.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS DRIVE: 100 YEARS OF COLLECTING If you've been pondering why your cupboards are overflowing with Tupperware, this exhibition explores the reasons why we collect and showcase objects. A collection can make you feel immortal, or even create a unique microcosm. Naturally, a maritime theme recurs through the exhibition, including an exclusive peek at Reinier Nooms' 1664 painting 'Gezicht op het IJ met 's Lands Zeemagazijn' – which the museum recently purchased – a life jacket from the Costa Concordia and a letter signed by Dutch naval hero Michiel de Ruyter. The National Maritime Museum, until 2 Jul WORLD PRESS PHOTO The winning images from the world's largest and most prestigious annual press photography contest begin their world tour in Amsterdam each year, presenting a reflection of trends and developments in photojournalism. This collection of images not only presents the (at times gruesome) reality of events on the world stage, but also the beauty of life, sports, art, science and nature. The overall winner is Turkish photographer Burhan Ozbilici. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 9 Jul THROUGH THE EYES OF OTHERS Micky Hoogendijk has earned an international following for her deeply moving pictures that aim to capture the vulnerability of her subjects. Museum Jan van der Togt in Amstelveen presents a retrospective titled ‘Through the eyes of others’, timed to coincide with the release of her first photography book. Museum Jan van der Togt, until 9 Jul A BETTER CITY Amsterdam City Archives presents an exhibition about the 'Algemeen Uitbreidingsplan van Amsterdam', which was the expansion plan devised for Amsterdam in the 1930s. Amsterdam City Archives, until 16 Jul FOAM X AFRICAN ARTISTS' FOUNDATION Foam and the African Artists’ Foundation present the work of three young photographers from Kenya and Nigeria: Mńchiri Njenga (1985), Osborne Macharia (1986) and Kadara Enyeasi (1994). Foam, until 16 Jul EVERLASTING FAME A selection of special prints, from the 16th to the 19th centuries, are on display during this informal exhibition. Works by the likes of Albrecht Dürer, Lucas van Leyden, Peter Paul Rubens, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo and Sir

Thomas Lawrence can be seen throughout the museum. Rijksmuseum, until 23 Jul RINEKE DIJKSTRA: AN ODE Venture into the world of Dutch photographer Rineke Dijkstra, who has been announced as the winner of the 2017 Hasselblad Award. 'Ode' includes iconic photographic works and highlights Dijkstra's early video work and her return to the medium in recent years. It also premieres three works that have never been displayed in the Netherlands. Stedelijk Museum, until 6 Aug IT’S A MEN’S WORLD It may seem like a modern idea, but the ‘man bag’ is actually centuries old. Rummage through the oft-overlooked history of male accessories from 16th-century belt purses to modern ‘it bags’. The Museum of Bags & Purses, until 27 Aug ADAM JEPPESEN Adam Jeppesen travelled far and wide to capture the large-scale landscapes in his new self-titled exhibition. The Danish photographer embarked on a journey from the North Pole to the South Pole to create these extraordinary images. Details such as scratches on the negatives add a layer of authenticity to the artist’s voyage. Foam, until 27 Aug JOURNEY IN TIME. HISTORY & ROYALTY Experience the main events in the history of De Nieuwe Kerk, right where they took place. Six centuries come to life as you encounter the Netherlands' greatest naval heroes and discover the ceremonies of kings and queens. The exhibition features six video walls, light projections, an audio guide, a wireless photo shoot and celestial sounds from the Netherlands’ largest historic pipe organ. Every day there is live music in the church, just as there was in the 17th century. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 27 Sep LAUGH NOW Explore some 50 original works by street art legend Banksy. Moco Museum, until 31 Aug DALI: GENIUS Take a look at some of Dali's most out-there works and the art that helped him to become labelled a 'genius'. Moco Museum, until 31 Aug PUCK & HANS – COUTURE LOCALE The colourful collections and daring silhouettes designed by Dutch fashion duo Puck & Hans are celebrated with a special exhibition at Amsterdam Museum. Puck Kroon and Hans Kemmink inspired the country with their handpainted silks and unexpected materials. Alongside the exhi-

bition, a documentary directed by Peter Wingender is set to be produced, which explores the influence that Puck & Hans had on other designers, including Viktor & Rolf. Amsterdam Museum, until 3 Sep

confronted with an unsettling artistic research into anatomy. By capturing these seemingly impossible, or at least implausible poses, Kraijer's work resonates with the infinite possibilities of existence. Huis Marseille, until 3 Sep

SETH PRICE – SOCIAL SYNTHETIC More than 140 pieces by the New York-based Seth Price are on display at the Stedelijk Museum in a celebration of the artist’s career highlights so far. The multi-disciplinary works are grounded in contemporary themes such as cultural consumerism and the digitisation of society. Price is well-known for his assemblages that remove the boundaries between sculpture and video, installation and print, music and poetry. Stedelijk Museum, until 3 Sep

REMBRANDT AND JAN SIX: THE ETCHING AND FRIENDSHIP An exhibition that celebrates Rembrandt’s friendship with Jan Six. An etching from the museum’s collection features Jan casually reading while leaning against a window, which was an unusual composition during the time of Golden Age portraiture. Rembrandt House Museum, until 3 Sep

MARTIN SCORSESE Each year Amsterdam’s EYE Filmmuseum selects an esteemed director as the subject of a major exhibition. In 2017, it celebrates the work of Martin Scorsese, one of the greatest filmmakers of the past half-century. Clips, photographs and memorabilia from films like Taxi Driver, Raging Bull, Goodfellas and The Wolf of Wall Street have been curated from his and Robert De Niro’s private collections, to tell the fascinating stories behind the films. EYE Filmmuseum, until 3 Sep UIT DE VERGETELHEID Photographs by Annemie and Helmuth Wolff, German Jews who fled from Munich to Amsterdam in 1933. As well as photos of the fledgling Schiphol and Port of Amsterdam, they took hundreds of portraits of their neighbours, capturing an insight into Amsterdam life. National Holocaust Museum, until 3 Sep SOLUTION OR UTOPIA? DESIGN FOR REFUGEES More than 50 designers have devised innovative solutions to the challenges experienced by the world’s 60 million refugees. The exhibition 'Solution or utopia? Design for refugees' explores the ways that art and design can make a real impact on the world. Several of the proposals were designed or implemented by refugees, such as the flag designed by the Syrian Yara Said for the Refugee Nation during the last Olympic Games, and the furniture by Cucula, which is produced in Berlin. Stedelijk Museum, until 3 Sep JUUL KRAIJER – CHIMAERA Throughout Chimaera, the body is central to photographer Juul Kraijer's work – never a face or personality. Featuring poses by contortionist Lise Pauton and dancer Camille Mutel, the viewer is

LIONEL WENDT – CEYLON Lionel Wendt's images taken in Sri Lanka in the early 20th century are now rare collectors' items, as the negatives were destroyed following the artist's death. The photographer's experimental techniques and modern compositions have a captivating avant-garde style. After studying in Britain, Lionel Wendt returned to his home in Ceylon (now called Sri Lanka) where he photographed spectacular scenes of island life and cultural rituals. Huis Marseille celebrates the artist's inspiring oeuvre with a full retrospective. Huis Marseille, until 3 Sep ANDRES SERRANO The controversial photographer, whose previous work has featured corpses, members of the Ku Klux Klan and torture scenes, is heading to Amsterdam for an exhibition at Huis Marseille. The New Yorkbased artist is world renowned for his confrontational images, and is even the designer of two album covers for heavy metal band Metallica. Huis Marseille, until 3 Sep IRIS VAN DONGEN As this year’s recipient of the Thérèse Schwartze Award, up-and-coming artist Iris van Dongen has an exhibition in the Bird Room at the Museum Van Loon. The Berlin-based Dutch artist is renowned for her pastel and charcoal portraits that have the romantic brooding quality of a modern day film noir heroine. The Thérèse Schwartze Award was established in 1919 to honour Dutch portraitists and celebrate women in the art world. Museum Van Loon, until 4 Sep SMALL WONDERS An exhibition that urges you to take a closer look. 'Small Wonders' is a collection of rare religious artefacts including figurines, prayer beads, boxwood pendants and other tiny treasures. Each piece is elaborately carved to depict biblical scenes in microscopic detail, demonstrating the immense craftsmanship of the artists. Rijksmuseum, 17 Jun-17 Sep

CHRIS BEEKMAN, DE STIJL DEFECTOR Get to know one of the unsung heroes of the De Stijl art movement during its 100-year celebration. Chris Beekman is a lesser-known artist who was associated with Bart van der Leck and Piet Mondrian early in his career. He later abandoned the principles of the movement, in favour of figurative works that promoted his left-wing political views. 'Chris Beekman, De Stijl Defector', follows the journey of his artistic career with more than 80 works on display. Stedelijk Museum, until 17 Sep 1917. ROMANOVS & REVOLUTION Travel back in time to St Petersburg 1917, the ultimate turning point in Russia’s history. This exhibition marks 100 years since the beginning of the Russian Revolution. See paintings, clothing and precious objects that belonged to Russia’s last imperial family on display. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 17 Sep NEW REALITIES Some of the most intriguing photographs of all time were taken shortly after the invention of the camera in 1839. This exhibition showcases pioneering photographers whose work varies greatly in subject, technique and purpose. Rijksmuseum, until 17 Sep SARAH VAN SONSBEECK In times gone by, the Oude Kerk was one of the few places where sails and nets could be mended, and where naval heroes were buried. Sarah van Sonsbeeck invites the sea into the church once more in order to prompt visitors to reflect on the building’s history and its current meaning of protection in an era when refugees endure horrific sea crossings. Oude Kerk, until 17 Sep SEA VIEWS The Rijksmuseum takes us to the beach (or at least the sea) this summer with this photography exhibition. These 35 photographs, on loan from a private collector, capture the astonishing power of the water and the sea’s ability to appear turquoise one moment and almost black the next. Rijksmuseum, until 17 Sep ANDY WARHOL Step into the Pop Art world of iconic artist Andy Warhol. While he was all about exploring the surface and the accessibility of art, this exhibition also invites you look behind the scenes of his screen printing processes and even showcases a replica of his famous 'Factory'. And naturally, you can wander round the exhibition to look at his most famous screen prints. Beurs van Berlage, 2 Jul-30 Sep

jul & aug 2017

JANA EULER: HIGH IN AMSTERDAM – THE SKY OF AMSTERDAM German artist Jana Euler presents her paintings, sculptural works and texts in a new exhibition that sees abstract pieces displayed alongside figurative works, delving into concepts of contemporary identity and what shapes it. Stedelijk Museum, until 15 Oct EDWARD KRASINSKI The Stedelijk Museum celebrates the achievements of Polish artist Edward Krasiński with a full retrospective. This exhibition, comprised of sculptures, installations and paintings, demonstrates his position as one of the most innovative artists from Eastern Europe. His experimental approach led to works that were inspiring, unique and often infused with witty irony. Stedelijk Museum, until 15 Oct DROMEN AAN HET IJ – VIJF VISIES UIT HET VERLEDEN The banks of the River IJ are vibrant hotspots of urban regeneration. As exciting as current and future developments for these areas actually are, ARCAM looks back at five historical visions that never came to fruition. ARCAM, until 28 Oct VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands, both before and after the introduction of the Housing Act in 1901. Explore a life-sized hovel, built next to the museum, to discover what living conditions really were like. Museum Het Schip, permanent ALEPPO Experience a now and then view of Aleppo, the war-torn Syrian city. At the heart of

BODY ART Body art and body modification, including tattoos and piercings, but also scarification, branding and implants, have a long history and are present in numerous cultures around the globe. This exhibition explores the various meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity. Tropenmuseum, until 4 Jan

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution. BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens. DIAMANT MUSEUM The Amsterdam Diamond Museum takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth – ending in the present-day with beautiful cut diamonds. You’ll find out about the carbon atom, meet specialists who transform a rough stone into a sparkling jewel, learn how to distinguish

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life.

FOUNDATION

GORDON PARKS Iconic American photographer Gordon Parks (1912-2006) is best known for his black-and-white photographs, but he also produced a lot of work in colour throughout his career. This expansive retrospective shows 120 of his works, including many colour photographs, portraits, documentary photos and fashion photography. You can also view excerpts from his films, which, in combination with the contact sheets and magazines containing his work, portray the social and political context in which he worked. Foam, until 6 Sep

IN THE FOREST. In the late 19th century, artists experimented with painting impressions of landscapes and outdoor scenes, inspired by the natural light. Vincent van Gogh, Théodore Rousseau and Camille Corot were among a group of artists who took their paints and easels out into forests and rural areas to capture the beauty of these natural scenes. This summer, the Van Gogh Museum presents a collection of exquisite landscape paintings from the artists. Van Gogh Museum, 7 Jul10 Sep between real and imitation diamonds and admire the collection of sparkling jewels on display. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques.

VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

GORDON PARKS COURTESY THE GORDON PARKS

RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired exhibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz, blues and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown's cape can all be seen. Relive key moments in history through archival film clips and hear the personal stories that have shaped pop music around the world. Tropenmuseum, until 7 Jan

Choice exhibit

JEAN DUBUFFET – MONUMENT À LA BÊTE DEBOUT (1983)

ZANELE MUHOLI Artist and activist Zanele Muholi presents a captivating photography exhibition that examines LGBT identity in South Africa. The photographs, taken in the artist’s home country, are compiled from two series: 'Faces and Phases, portraits of South African lesbians', and 'Brave Beauties', which celebrates transgender women. Stedelijk Museum, 8 Jul-15 Oct

the exhibition is the Tropenmuseum's own scale model of the historic city, as it was then. This is paired with photographs by renowned photographers like Stanley Greene and Eddy van Wessel, postcards and videos, all providing insights into life in Aleppo before and during the war. Former Aleppo citizens will also host guided tours and share stories – check the Tropenmuseum website for schedules. Tropenmuseum, until 31 Dec

PATH IN THE WOODS, VINCENT VAN GOGH 1887

MODERNISM: IN PRINT UvA's Special Collections looks at a century of Dutch graphic design and the influence of the De Stijl art movement. It features works, old and new, by the likes of Piet Zwart, Dick Elffers, Jurriaan Schrofer, Wim Crouwel and Experimental Jetset. Special Collections, until 1 Oct

DUBUFFET Jean Dubuffet is a sculptor and assemblage artist who made a name for himself with his radical, painted sculptures, distinguished by their graphic lines and use of colour. He has been commissioned to create monumental artworks all over the world, and the 12 pieces brought together here have travelled from Paris, Lisbon, New York and London. Take a stroll through the museum's garden (it's free!) and explore his works during this annual open-air sculptural showcase. Rijksmuseum, 1 Jul-1 Oct GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons. HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century. HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public. REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries. RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th century. HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing s eries of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ POP & JAZZ NONAME This Chicagoan singer's tunes are a musical mash-up of rap, hip-hop and slam poetry. She discovered her skills in spoken word through creative writing at school. After a slew of successful online videos, she managed to turn the heads of the likes of Rolling Stone and Pitchfork. Sat 1 Jul, Bitterzoet, 20:30, €14.50 RODA DE SAMBA This festive Brazilian session led by guitarist Nelson Latif and his band features renowned guests from the Brazilian Summer Sessions, so get ready for one big brazen Brazil bash. There'll be piano, acoustic guitars and the classic ukelele-like cavaquinho. Hopefully they'll go easy on the caxirola, though... Sat 1 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €12-€15 BRIAN WILSON – PET SOUNDS Brian Wilson – the legendary co-founder of The Beach Boys – will be playing through his magnum opus, the monumental 'Pet Sounds', at this concert. Luckily, he's got his former bandmates Al Jardine and Blondie Chaplin to help him mark the half-century anniversary of the revered album. Mon 3 Jul, Royal Theater Carré, 20:00, €68-€98 KONRAD KOSELLECK BIG BAND An accomplished jazz pianist and graduate of both Hilversum and Amsterdam conservatories, Konrad Koselleck brings his passion, energy and humour to the fore as the bandleader of this ensemble. Their frequent adventures in Amsterdam's Bimhuis throw up everything imaginable: jazz, cabaret, musicals, pop, rock, funk, Latin and even classical music. Mon 3 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €16 RESIDENTE This Puerto Rican rapper has made quite a name for himself in the music biz. Throughout his career, including his role as frontman for hip-hop group Calle 13, he's won a whopping 24 Grammy Awards – the most of any Latin artist. He recently released his eponymous debut solo advert

THE YEAR OF CANCER 16 – 26 AUG SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

album to favourable reviews. Tue 4 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.50

on Jamaican music mixes the melodic and energetic aspects of reggae and dancehall with the hard-hitting lyricism of hip-hop. ILE Fellow reggae and dancehall A special bonus for fans of Latin songsters Micah Shemaiah and hip-hop group Calle 13 (see DJ Madbwoy will also be Residente, above), this singperforming. er-songwriter from Puerto Rico Mon 10 July, Paradiso, was the female voice of the band 20:30, €22 until it went on hiatus. Just like THE UNDERACHIEVERS Residente, she's busy building a solo career and even picked up Comprised of rappers AK and a Grammy of her very own this Issa Gold, this East Coast hipyear for her debut solo album, hop duo are known for their 'Ilevitable'. Rightly so: her cool psychedelic musical concoctions mix of mid-tempo, folk-inspired that incorporate frantic rhymes songs are mesmeric. and heavy production. Expect Wed 5 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, some trippy new material from €15-€18 their 2017 album 'Renaissance' at this show. THE SHIVAS Thur 13 Jul, Melkweg, The Shivas grew up on psyche20:00, €18.50 delic tunes from the Sixties and FRIDOLIJN'S classic garage rock, and it really 'CATCHING CURRENTS' shows in their sound. The young Oregan-based trio's lo-fi tracks Fridolijn's doing extremely well blur the line between punk, surf for herself, with her jazz group and garage rock. They're promanaging to successfully make moting their latest release, last the tough leap into Japan and year's 'Better Off Dead'. China. Of course, she's still popThur 6 Jul, Sugarfactory, ular here in the Netherlands, 20:30, €9 and her latest album – 'Catching Currents' – proves why, showTUTU PUOANE MEETS casing the singer's beautiful JESSE VAN RULLER jazz-tinged folk voice. South African jazz singer Tutu Fri 14 Jul, Royal ConcertgePuoane is joining forces with bouw, 19:30 & 21:30, €20 Dutch jazz guitarist Jesse van WOLFMOTHER Ruller – the first European musician to win the prestigious Australia's coolest hard rockers Thelonious Monk Award. are finally returning to AmExpect goosebumps as Puoane's sterdam. While they're mostly warm, pure voice collides with known for their 2005 hit single, Van Ruller's full, twangy jazz 'Woman', the band's maintained playing. marriage of modern and classiFri 7 Jul, Royal Concertgecal rock has ensured their ongobouw, 19:30 & 21:30, €20 ing relevance. And given the raw passion of last year's 'Victorious', MATENROU OPERA these Aussies seem set to stay Despite the name, this band have in musical orbit for some time nothing to do with opera; in fact, to come. they're a Japanese Visual Kei metFri 14 Jul, Paradiso, al band. Think make-up, keytars, 20:30, €32.50 flamboyant costumes and – of BUSTA RHYMES course – big hair. Their tunes are a cheesy blend of symphonic metIt's been a while since this rap al and alternative rock, a genre legend paid a visit to the Neththat's generating a lot of buzz in erlands, but his eccentric style, the Far East's metal scene. fast-paced MCing and use of inSun 9 Jul, Melkweg, 19:00, ternal rhyme have warranted an €33 unwavering fan base. With nine solo albums and another in the KEVIN MORBY works (plus his recent reappearA key member of indie bands ance with A Tribe Called Quest), Woods and The Babies, Morby there'll be plenty of hits to pick has recently stepped out on from in this late-night gig. his own to release the emotive Sat 15 Jul, Paradiso, singer-songwriter record 'Sing01:00, €35 ing Saw', showing off his inner THE ORIGINAL JB'S Dylan. Imarhan is supporting, a band whose tunes draw inspiDuring the '70s and early '80s, ration from African funk, desert James Brown's band (The J.B.'s) rock and Seventies' pop. not only supported the monSun 9 Jul, Paradiso, umental artist on stage, but in 20:00, €15 the studio too. They even helped him record some of his biggest THE MAGPIE SALUTE hits, including 'Soul Power' and Formed by The Black Crowes' 'Super Bad'. Martha High, Danformer guitarist Rich Robinson, ny Ray and Cynthia Moore will The Magpie Salute hit the scene add vocal help for some unrelast year with their amalgamalenting soul and funk classics. tion of blues and southern rock. Sun 16 Jul, Paradiso, The band was originally meant 20:30, €27.50 to have a three-show run, but PET SHOP BOYS they decided to keep going due to popular demand. This electronic-pop duo have Mon 10 Jul, Paradiso, achieved quite a bit in their 20:30, €30 30-year musical career. Now on their 12th album, the boys KABAKA PYRAMID are listed in the Guinness Book This Kingston-based artist of Records for being the most and producer's refreshing take successful duo in UK music his-

TRIBUTE TO tory, and they've topped the US ELLA FITZGERALD Billboard Hot 100 to boot. They demonstrated their continued The late Ella Fitzgerald is widerelevance to the pop world with ly adored for her impeccable the release of last year's solid purity of tone, phrasing, dic'Super' - an energetic electronic tion, and intonation. Grammy collection, high on melody. Award-winning jazz singer Patti Tue 18 Jul, Royal Theater Austin, who credits Fitzgerald as Carré, 20:00, €62-€88 one of her greatest inspirations, will pay tribute to the legend at AYANNA WITTER-JOHNSON this concert. This classically trained cellist Sat 29 Jul, Royal Concertgeand singer is celebrated within bouw, 21:00, €25 jazz circles for her towering INTIMATE FLAMENCO: technical artistry and self-asEDUARDO GUERRERO sured on-stage swagger. Her soulful fusion of jazz, blues and This concert sees renowned folk – reinforced by her unfetsolo dancer Eduardo Guerrero tered will to break the mould performing to a backdrop of fla– should appeal to fans of all menco music. Guerrero's charthese genres. ismatic, quirky and energetic Fri 21 Jul, Royal Concertgemoves are balanced by guitarist bouw, 19:30 & 21:30, €20 Javier Ibañez's skilful playing and Jesus Corbacho Vazquez SABRINA STARKE: IMAGINE and Manuel Soto's fiery vocals. This Surinamese-Dutch singThur 3 Aug, Royal Concertgeer-songwriter made quite the bouw, 20:00, €22 splash when she hit the scene JP HARRIS & back in 2008; she even secured THE TOUGH CHOICES the year's Edison Award for Best Newcomer. Today, the RotAmerican singer-songwriter terdam-based soul diva is still JP Harris pretentiously claims going strong with her delicate that he and his band don't play mixture of soul, folk, rhythm & Americana, roots or folk music – blues and jazz. just pure, old-fashioned country Sat 22 Jul, Royal Concertgemusic. It's actually Americana, bouw, 20:00, €22 though – and some good Americana at that. MONOPHONICS Thur 3 Aug, Q-Factory, These San Franciscan funk20:30, €10 sters are again strutting their RAMÓN VALLE stuff in dance music's favourite city. The psychedelic soul band Cuban jazz pianist and comproduce tunes that merge jazz, poser Ramón Valle came to the soul, Afrobeat and funk into Netherlands back in 1997 to try one danceable hybrid – one that to become a part of Europe's appeals to genre purists and vibrant jazz world. Twenty years newcomers alike. later, he's blown that goal out of Sat 22 Jul, Bitterzoet, the water. He's celebrating his 20:30, €15 doublet of Dutch decades with a special concert, showing all how MOON HOOCH he pushes and blurs the boundBrooklyn-based Moon Hooch aries of jazz, Latin and classical started off busking in stations music. across New York City Subway, Fri 4 Aug, Royal Concertgeat least until the NYPD banned bouw, 19:30 & 21:30, €20 them from doing so because PENNYWISE, FACE TO FACE their popular shows started AND GOOD RIDDANCE causing public disturbances. The band, comprised of two sax- This punkstravaganza features ophonists and a drummer, play three of the biggest hitters of the music that combines hook-laden '90s skate punk scene. Naturaljazz and energetic techno vibes. ly, you can expect an evening Tue 25 Jul, Paradiso, packed with the speediest, 20:00, €15 heaviest and catchiest tunes in the genre. Newcomers PEARS BAD RELIGION seem to be equally punktastic, After forming in Los Angeles in giving attendees some hardcore 1979, it took a few years for this to cleanse their punk palette. band to really gain infamy, but Sun 6 Aug, Melkweg, since 1993, they’ve been at the 17:00, €26 forefront of California's punk DON CARLOS scene. These days, they're one of the planet's most prolific punk This Jamaican singer and comoutfits, not only in terms of their poser has been at the forefront own output, but in how they of reggae for 45 years now. The mentor younger bands and muveteran began his career as sicians. They're also working on a founding member of Black a new record, so we'll likely hear Uhuru back in the early '70s. some new material at this show. He's been in and out of the Fri 28 Jul, Melkweg, band since then, but his warm, 19:30, €26.45 melodic voice has kept his loyal reggae fanbase right by his side. U2 Thur 10 Aug, Melkweg, It's been 30 years since the re20:30, €20 lease of U2's iconic fifth album, SLIGHTLY STOOPID 'The Joshua Tree'. To commemorate this special occasion, the Despite the band's name, Irish legends will be playing the these guys are actually pretty record and some bonus hits. damn clever. They've managed Sat 29 & Sun 30 Jul, to do the undoable: blending Amsterdam ArenA, 18:30, almost every genre under the €38.50-€190 sun – rock, hip-hop, funk, metal,

jul & aug 2017

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ & CLASSICAL blues, island reggae and more. It's all held together with some groovy bass lines, energy-filled rhythm and that quintessential Californian punk humour. Sat 12 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €17 THE COMMON LINNETS Country meets modern Americana in the shape of Ilse DeLange, JB Meijers, Jake Etheridge and Matthew Crosby. They’ll be touring plenty of festivals this summer with their intimate acoustic songs and punchier rock, but where better to hear the Netherland’s own songbirds than among the trees and stars of an open-air theatre in the woods? Mon 14 Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 20:30, €35 HEPCAT Hepcat are one of the more successful bands of the ska revival of the '90s, mostly thanks to their powerful harmonies, Caribbean-inspired melodies and infectious rhythm. Their sound is shaped from rocksteady, reggae, R&B and jazz – your typical ska romp. Well, if it ain't broke... Mon 14 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €20 CONOR OBERST Conor Oberst had a hand in shaping the lighter side of indie during the Nineties and early Noughties. He's best-known for his work in indie band Bright Eyes, but he now makes solid use of his acoustic guitar and trembling indie voice with some heartfelt solo material. Thur 17 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €30 BORIS Tokyo-based band Boris are bringing their amalgam of avant-garde metal and experimental rock to the Dutch capital. Since their formation in 1992, they've released an insane 23 albums. This tour marks their 25-year anniversary, and they've just released some thunderous new tracks, so expect a lively night. Fri 18 Aug, Poppodium P60, 20:00, €14

results from a collaboration between pop and dance music. British composer Jules Buckley conducts. Sat 19 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €20 ALEX VARGAS Danish-Uruguayan singer-songwriter Alex Vargas continues to captivate his mostly European fan base with a poetic and openly emotional approach to soul and alternative rock. Sun 20 Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 20:30, €30 KATE NASH It's been ten years since Kate Nash released her platinumselling debut album 'Made of Bricks', which won over hordes of teenage girls with its cockney-sung, piano-driven tunes (like a less abrasive Lily Allen). Her fourth album recently got crowdfunded on Kickstarter, so you're likely to hear a new track or two, but this one's definitely all about the hits. Mon 21 Aug, Melkweg, 19:00, €20

25 AUG – 10 SEP

AUGUST: SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE CONCERTGEBOUW CELEBRATES 20 YEARS The Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw is arguably one of the most passionate jazz groups in the Netherlands. For 20 years they've teamed up with the best homegrown and international jazz groups and soloists, and their impact has been huge. It certainly feels like they've been around for a long longer than a couple of decades. To mark the anniversary, they're putting on a concert with a host of musical guests from around the globe, including soul singer Madeline Bell, flautist Ronald Snijders and saxophonist Tineke Postma. Sun 30 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25

JOHN MORELAND This Oklahoma-based Americana singer-songwriter has become a force to be reckoned with in alt-country, mostly thanks to his rootsy singing voice and his trusty acoustic guitar. Three of his songs have even been featured on the hit TV show ‘Sons of Anarchy’. Tue 22 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, €17.50 JIMMY EAT WORLD 'The Middle' and 'Pain' were on the playlist of every wannabe emo of the early Noughties, but the band had sadly fallen from grace in recent years. Their latest record is their best offering since 2001's 'Bleed American', so get ready for some killer ew tunes as well as the overplayed classics. Wed 23 August, Melkweg, 19:30, €21

AUGUST BURNS RED These unrelenting metalcore heroes are revered in the metal community for their powerful HENRIK SCHWARZ & guitar melodies, huge breakMETROPOLE ORCHESTRA downs and peculiar time signaHenrik Schwarz and the tures. It's been a decade since Metropole Orkest – who opened they dropped 'Messengers', their last year’s Amsterdam Dance ferocious breakthrough record. Event together – bring the What better way to celebrate surreal symbiosis of sound that that momentous album than an explosive European tour? advert Thur 24 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €18.50

MEDEA

Choice pop & jazz

DANY LADEMACHER'S WILD ROMANCE This Belgian guitar player rose to fame in Dutch band Herman Brood and his Wild Romance. Sadly, after a long battle with drug abuse, the vocalist – Herman Brood – took his own life in 2001. Dany Lademacher's Wild Romance is a commemoration of the original band, reviving all the hits for a new generation (and a nostalgic older generation.) Fri 25 Aug, Poppodium P60, 20:30. €14

THE AFGHAN WHIGS With an original run that went from 1986 to 2001, this US band hit cult status with their soulful and sexy take on alternative rock, which unashamedly borrowed vibes from classic soul and R&B along the way - a far cry from their grungier peers in the '90s. Though they initially broke up after their horn-infused album '1965', recent years saw them first return as a live force, before then releasing two subsequent albums - the latest, 'In Spades', showing a more solid return to form. Brit singer-songwriter Ed Harcourt supports. Wed 9 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, €27

MAIN SOURCE Canadian-American group Main Source exploded onto the New York hip-hop scene in the early Nineties with their commanding wordplay, meaningful lyrical content and damn-good production work. They split up back in 1994, but they're back to commemorate the 25-year anniversary of their first record, 'Breaking Atoms'. Fri 25 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €20 NICK MULVEY English singer-songwriter Nick Mulvey's take on folk music is certainly unique; the artist utilises his experiences as a drummer and music student in Cuba

LUCINDA WILLIAMS Country singer-songwriter Lucinda Williams has certainly left her mark on the music world since kicking off her career in the late-'70s. With 13 albums to her name, this Americana diva deserves all the reverence she gets from critics and fellow musicians for her loose grooves and inspired storytelling. As always, she'll be playing everything from her latest release ('The Ghost Of Highway 20') to her classic material at this show. And be sure to head in early for support act Shovels & Rope, a husband-and-wife duo whose electrified roots are sure to start an impromptu party. Wed 30 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, €30 to craft some truly rhythmic and worldly tracks. He's releasing his second solo album – 'Unconditional' – this year, so expect some new material. Thur 31 Aug, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €20

FRANZ FERDINAND These Scotsmen became leaders of the post-punk revival in the early Noughties thanks to the chart-topping successes of their first two albums. Sadly, they then lost their momentum and were clinging to remain relevant for a good while after. Surprisingly though, a collaborative album with art punks Sparks seems to have jumped their battery, and while new recorded output is unlikely to hit those early heights, they can once again confidently fill pop halls. Tue 29 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, €35

CLASSICAL SINGING IN DE HALLEN Every first Sunday of the month, choirs perform in the central passage of De Hallen. Sun 2 Jul & 6 Aug, De Hallen, 16:00, free ROBECO SUMMERNIGHTS – OPENING CONCERT The Robeco SummerNights take over Amsterdam’s Royal Concertgebouw each year for two months of music, from classical to jazz and from cabaret to film scores. This year’s opening concert features Dutch wunderkinds and piano stars, the brothers Arthur and Lucas Jussen, with a programme of Ravel, Poulenc and Prokofiev. Sat 1 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, sold out NETHERLANDS RADIO PHILHARMONIC – THE RITE OF SPRING Marcus Stenz conducts Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring and Beethoven’s Symphony no. 5. Sun 2 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 SUMMER ORGAN RECITAL Every summer Sunday afternoon, various Dutch and international organists give recitals on De Duif 's Smits organ. Sundays, De Duif, 16:00, free (with voluntary donation) AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA & MARTIN FRÖST Clarinettist Martin Fröst joins Amsterdam Sinfonietta for a performance of Mozart’s Clarinet Concerto. Mon 3 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 OPERA ZUID – THE BARBER OF SEVILLE OperaZuid and philharmonie zuidnederland perform Rossini’s masterpiece, conducted by Per-Otto Johansson. Tue 4 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 19:30, €25-€43

HOOVERPHONIC This Belgian band is hard to pigeonhole, as their music enESSENER PHILHARMONIKER compasses elements from hip& SIMONE LAMSMA hop, trip-hop, rock, electronica and pop. Despite a couple of The much-lauded violinist Simsinger replacements since they one Lamsma joins the German first formed over 20 years ensemble for a programme ago, they're still doing well for tinted by Eastern sounds. While themselves – especially on their Mozart’s ‘Turkish’ violin concerhome turf. to might be more Austrian than Sun 27 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos- Turkish, Dvorák’s Eighth Symtheater, 17:30, €23 phony and the overture of Carl

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL

ATOS TRIO & ISABEL CHARISIUS The renowned trio and Isabel Charisius on viola play Fauré’s lyrical Piano Quartet No. 1, plus Mahler’s Quartettsatz and Schumann’s First Piano Trio. Thur 6 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €28-€42

poser. Tchaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony is also on the programme. Thur 13 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €20-€43 LOUIS SCHWIZGEBEL, BENJAMIN BEILMAN & NAREK HAKHNAZARYAN – ARCHDUKE TRIO The three soloists join (considerable) forces to play Beethoven’s Archduke Trio. Piano trios by Shostakovich and Ravel are also on the programme. Fri 14 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €28-€42

Choice classical

Maria von Weber’s Freischütz evoke all of Bohemia’s glory. Tomáš Netopil conducts. Wed 5 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA: THE BEST OF FLOR DE AMOR BERNSTEIN Flor de Amor is part of the Conducted by John Wilson, Hofjes- & Pleinconcerten, a soloists Kim Criswell (soprano), series of free open-air concerts BURGGRAAF, WISPELWEY & SPANJAARD Scarlett Strallen (soprano), taking place in the Jordaan’s A new trio formed by mezzosoprano Cora Burggraaf, cellist Julian Ovenden (tenor) and charming courtyards and on its Pieter Wispelwey and pianist Ed Spanjaard play beautiful, Nadim Naaman (baritone) join no less charming squares. Today, nocturnal music: Brahms’ Zwei Gesänge, for example, in the orchestra for a night of Berit’s South American swing and which the cello and the vocals hold a dialogue against the nstein’s greatest hits from works ballads of joyful simplicity. background of a dreamy piano. There are more works by such as West Side Story, WonSun 16 Jul, Karthuizerhof Brahms on the programme, as well as Dvořák, Chopin and derful Town and On the Town – (Karthuizersstraat 89-171), Shostakovich. After the interval, Debussy’s Intermezzo and including, of course, 'New York, 15:00, free works by Alphons Diepenbrock, Henriëtte Bosmans and New York'. BEETHOVEN ORCHESTER Gerard von Brucken Fock. The evening culminates in the Fri 7 Jul, Royal ConcertgeBONN & VIVIANE HAGNER – famous Méditation from Massenet’s opera 'Thaïs'. bouw, 20:00, €33-€56 PASTORAL SYMPHONY Sat 15 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €28-€42 LUNCHTIME CONCERT AT It’s pastoral joys on a summer’s WESTERKERK evening with the Beethoven Every Friday at lunchtime, a free Orchester from Bonn. Before, organ recital takes place in Am- Viviane Hagner, internationally sterdam's famous Westerkerk. recognised for her creative style Fridays, Westerkerk, 13:00, of playing, joins for Bruch’s First free Violin Concerto. Thur 20 Jul, Royal ConcertgeDIE KÖLNER AKADEMIE & bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 RONALD BRAUTIGAM DEUTSCHE KAMMERPianist Ronald Brautigam has PHILHARMONIE BREMEN earned a lot of praise for his & JANINE JANSEN recordings of Beethoven’s piano concertos. Tonight he reprises Dutch star violinist Jansen PRINSENGRACHT OPERA IN THE GARDEN the first, preceded by some Mo- joins Bremen’s Deutsche KamCONCERT zart and more Beethoven. merphilharmonie for Mozart’s Harking back to opera’s Sun 9 Jul, Royal ConcertgeViolin Concerto no. 3, followed The free Prinsengracht beginnings as courtly enterbouw, 20:00, €25-€43 by Beethoven’s First Symphony. Concert is performed on tainment in Italy, the annual Wed 26 Jul, Royal Concertgethe pontoon by the Pulitzer Opera in the Garden perforQUIRINE VIERSEN & bouw, 20:00, €33 Hotel and draws in huge mances at Museum van Loon ENRICO PACE crowds each year, with the are a beautiful experience, NORTH SEA STRING QUARTET Cellist Quirine Viersen and beautiful canal forming the matching the grandeur of the pianist Enrico Pace perform From May until September each perfect backdrop for the canal house garden with fanSchumann’s ‘Fünf Stücke im year, the Vondelpark Open Air music played. This year’s per- tastic music. This year it’s the Volkston’ and sonatas by BeeTheatre presents a programme formers include pianist Nina operetta Le Docteur Miracle, thoven and Rachmaninoff. packed full of excellent musical Gvetadze and the Brodsky written by a then 18-year-old Mon 10 Jul, Royal Concertge- performances. Today, the North Quartet. The children's conGeorges Bizet. bouw, 20:00, €28-€42 Sea String Quartet is taking the cert features talented young Thur 10 & Sat 12-Thur 17 stage. The versatile group of soloists performing with the Aug, Museum van Loon, ALMA QUARTET musicians combine classical, imJeugdOrkest Nederland. 17:00 & 19:30, 10 Aug only The quartet, which consists of prov and jazz music to create a Sat 19 Aug, Prinsengracht, 19:30, €35 (10 Aug)/€19 three members of the Royal sound that is equal parts techni16:00 and 20:00, free 15:00, €10-€125 Concertgebouw Orchestra and cality, creativity and spontaneity. one of the Netherlands PhilSun 30 Jul, Vondelpark Open FLANDERS SYMPHONY harmonic Orchestra, performs Air Theatre, 12:00, free it should be called the Finished ORCHESTRA & LIZA works by Debussy, Schulhoff, Symphony, as the orchestra perFUSE: FUSION STRING FERSCHTMAN Shostakovich and Ravel. forms a variation by ENSEMBLE Tue 11 Jul, Royal ConcertgeMario Venzago, who has reRenowned Dutch violinist Liza bouw, 20:00, €28-€42 The clue’s in the name: Fuse is constructed the work’s ending Ferschtman joins the orchestra an orchestra that combines clasafter what he’s called ‘crimefor Sibelius’ seminal Violin NATIONAL ORCHESTRA OF sical music with other genres. novel-like’ Concerto. Tchaikovsky’s Second BELGIUM: SUMMER NIGHT The result is an eclectic melting investigations. Symphony is on the programme AT THE OPERA pot of compositions that takes Sun 6 Aug, Royal Concertgefor the second half. The orchestra and soloists cues from rock, jazz, folk, imbouw, 20:00, €25 Sat 12 Aug, Royal ConcertgeJodie Devos (soprano), Thomas prov and more. bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 SUMMERNIGHT AT THE Blondellem (tenor) and Thomas Tue 1 Aug, Royal Concertge MOVIES: FROM SUPERMAN GRACHTENFESTIVAL: Oliemans (baritone) perform bouw, 20:00, €22 TO ICE AGE CANDLE LIGHT CONCERT a summery, good-natured proMUNICH SYMPHONY gramme of opera greatest hits: This Oscar-worthy concert sees Each month, hundreds of ORCHESTRA & ARABELLA from Puccini to Mozart and the Munich Symphony Orchesandles light up the heart of the STEINBACHER from Wagner to Verdi. tra performing a selection of Jewish Cultural Quarter as talWed 12 Jul, Royal ConcertgeThroughout Brahms’ 65-year popular film soundtracks, feaented musicians perform at the bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 career, he composed just one turing compositions from movPortuguese Synagogue. violin concerto, dedicated to his ies such as The Godfather (Nino In August, when the concert is NETHERLANDS RADIO PHIL- friend, the Hungarian composer Rota), Harry Potter and the part of the Grachtenfestival, HARMONIC & ANDREAS Joseph Joachim. Renowned Philosopher's Stone (John Wil- the Nieuw Amsterdams Klarinet BRANTELID – DVORÁK’S violinist Steinbacher joins the liams), West Side Story (Leonard Kwartet (NAKK) plays works CELLO CONCERTO orchestra for its performance. Bernstein) and Superman by Mendelssohn, Bach, The Danish cellist plays After the interval, it’s time for (John Williams). Vivaldi and Puccini as well as Dvońák’s Cello Concerto, a late Schubert’s Eighth, or UnfinTue 8 Aug, Royal Concertgesome more unusual choices and glorious work by the comished, Symphony. Only tonight, bouw, 20:00, €20-€36 such as Nikolai Kapustin,

Guillermo Lago and Gencho Genchev. Thur 17 Aug, Portuguese Synagogue, 20:00, €14.50 HENRIK SCHWARZ & METROPOLE ORCHESTRA Henrik Schwarz and the Metropole Orkest – who opened last year’s Amsterdam Dance Event together – are taking on the Dutch capital again with the surreal symbiosis of sound that results from a collaboration between a pop orchestra and one of dance music’s key innovators. British composer Jules Buckley conducts. Sat 19 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €20 AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK BERLIN & ISABELLE FAUST – BACH VIOLIN CONCERTOS Isabelle Faust – widely viewed as one of Germany’s greatest modern violinists – joins forces with esteemed chamber orchestra Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin for this concert. The performance covers some of Bach's most technical and enigmatic works. Tue 22 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 SUMMERNIGHT AT THE MOVIES: FROM DALLAS TO DOWNTON ABBEY The second part of this year's SummerNight at the Movies programme features a variety of well-known film and TV soundtracks, including compositions from E.T (John Williams), Batman (Danny Elfman), Game of Thrones, (Ramin Djawadi), Downton Abbey (John Lunn) and House of Cards (Jeff Beal). Sat 26 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €20-€36 NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA: OPERA IN CAPRERA Head to the beach for a night at the opera: the open-air theatre in Bloemendaal might be a frequent home to big names in pop, but this late-summer event invites top opera talents to perform famous arias. Sun 27 Aug, Openluchttheater Caprera, 20:30, €32 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA – BRUCKNER’S SYMPHONY NO. 9 Italian conductor Daniele Gatti – currently the chief conductor of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – leads the orchestra through Bruckner’s monumental, unfinished symphony. Tonight, the work is paired with contemporary German composer Wolfgang Rihm’s 'In-Schrift'. Wed 30 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €33-€56 LAST OF THE SUMMERNIGHTS This fittingly grand finale to the Robeco SummerNights spectacle features an evening of sparkling arias and other works by Mozart, Strauss, Bizet and more, performed by the Netherlands Radio Philharmonic and two soloists: mezzo-soprano Karin Strobos and violinist Nemanja Raduloviń. Thur 31 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43

In June, July and August, ARTIS Amsterdam Royal Zoo will be open every Saturday until sunset. There will be workshops for children and performances by famous artists and emerging musicians. Picnic in the grass or order a pizza from our outdoor kitchen. While youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here, learn to grow your own edible garden, or attend a talk by a veterinarian, microbiologist or plant expert, who can tell you all about our edible gardens. The evening concludes with a special guided tour of the park at twilight. Off to ARTIS!

PART IV THE A-LIST.

STAGE

STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW IN ENGLISH The clue's in the title. every Thur, Comedy Café, 20:30, €10-€12.50 BEST OF BOOM After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom'. This highlights package combines the troupe’s sharpest sketches and trademark improvisation for a twohour show. Jul & Aug, Boom Chicago, various times VIS À VIS – MARE Almere-based theatre company Vis à Vis, known for their unique, madcap-comedy-inspired performances bring their latest 'survival comedy', 'Mare', in which rising sea levels have flooded the entire Earth. Expect slapstick and visual theatre on a grand scale, ensuring these performances are language no problem. Wed-Sun through Jul, Wed 30 & Thur 31 Aug, Almeerderzand, visavis.nl BLACKADDER GOES FORTH The local theatre company turn their attention to the BBC hit comedy Blackadder Goes Forth - its fourth and final series, set during the WWI. Performed in English. Sun 2 Jul, Badhuistheater, 17:30, €12.50-€15 SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE A new weekly comedy show that tackles the art of longform improv. That makes for a more laidback experience than you'll usually find in Boom. every Sun, Boom Chicago, 20:00, €15 SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 BETROFFENHEIT Using their unique blend of jazz, tap, salsa, urban and modern dance, Canadian performers Crystal Pute and Jonathon Young take the audience through the loneliness and claustrophobia of prison. Tue 4 & Wed 5 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€40 ALBERT KHOZA Feel a spectrum of emotions – including laughter, shame and disgust – as talented young

DANCERS OF TOMORROW All the pupils and students of the National Ballet Academy will appear on stage: from the nine and ten year olds who have just started their training to the gifted young dancers of Dutch National Ballet’s Junior Company. Thur 7 & Fri 8 Jul, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 20:00, €12.50-€22.50 7EVEN For this eclectic show, seven up-and-coming choreographers each have seven minutes to showcase their choreography skills – each one with their own distinct style with renowned dancers from Amsterdam's ICK and the Ballet National de Marseille. Wed 5 & Thur 6 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€27.50 CIRQUE ÉLOIZE – SALOON Saddle up for 'Saloon', an energetic family show presented by Canadian circus troupe Cirque Éloize, who combine circus acts with live music. Wed 5-Thur 13 Jul, Royal Theater Carré, various times, €19-€54 SWEET FEVER Choreographer Pere Faura pits the music of the '70s against modern tracks, enticing audience members to leave their seats to dance on stage. Thur 6 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:30, free BEYTNA An on-stage feast of food, dance and music. The event features diverse performances from an array of acts and dancers – all while choreographer Rajeh's mother prepares and cooks Lebanese food. Fri 7 & Sat 8 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 20:30 (Saturday 16:00), €25 SWEET TYRANNY Spanish dancer and choreographer Pere Faura mixes modern dance with classical pieces. Fri 7 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€25 ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP UP THE VOLUME The political comedy team of Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but were they ready for President Donald Trump? Fri 7 & 14 Jul, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices 7: TRIPLE MOON The ode to feminine power sees three female dancers from three different generations honouring the moon goddess with their own flair. Expect everything from contemporary dance to ballet.

Sat 8 & Sun 9 July, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€27.50 LOVE CHAPTER 2 Sharon Eyal and Gai Behar of LEV Dance Company present their hotly anticipated sequel to ‘OCD Love’. Sun 9 & Mon 10 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€37.50 CANDY'S CAMOUFLAGE Inspired by Andy Warhol's early films, Austrian choreographer Chris Haring uses similar split-screen techniques here in his visual displays. Meanwhile, three dancers follow the cameras and lights like moths to a flame. Mon 10 & Tue 11 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 19:00 (Tue 20:30), €25 GISELLE Balletto di Roma has teamed up with modern choreographers Itamar Serussi and Chris Haring for this particularly audacious remake. Tue 11 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€35 BLACK MARROW 'Black Marrow' is an acknowledgement of the bond between humanity and nature, illustrating a world in which life has become predictable and mechanised. To a backdrop of experimental composer Ben Frost's haunting music, the dancers animate their story through rhythm, repetition and pure exhaustion. Wed 12 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €12.50-€30

ELVEDON Elvedon paints a picture of a strong evolutionary force that generates continuous change. Six dancers personify this with complex movements, subtly tweaking their dance patterns with captivating control. Thur 13 Jul, Stadsshouwburg, 21:00, €10-€22.50 TITANS TITANS is the newest creation from Greek dance troupe OSMOSIS Theatre Company. Inspired in part by Greek mythology, the epic duet portrays a mortal struggling in a ruthless alien world. Thur 13 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 19:00, €20 AUGURI 'AUGURI' sees chorographer Oliver Dubois working with his biggest troupe ever: 22 dancers. The performance tackles controversial topics and taboos such as gender issues, sexuality and violence. Fri 14 & Sat 15 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€30 OVER HET IJ FESTIVAL Catch the ferry across the River IJ and before you know it, you'll find yourself on the lively festival grounds offering a summery blend of site-specific theatre, DJs and food. 14-23 Jul, NDSM Wharf, overhetij.nl DFS Choreographers Cecilia Bengolea and François Chaignaud's latest invention embraces elements from Ja-

Choice theatre

LIMBO Australia's biggest circuscabaret act makes itself at home in Amsterdam this summer. 'Limbo' features an array of international performers who promise to keep the crowd on the edge of their seats. The line-up includes Canadian acrobat Evelyne Allard, American fire breather and sword-swallower Heather Holliday, and Chinese pole master and beatboxer Mikael Bres. The whole show is accompanied by a thrilling live band that features over 50 instruments and performs a fusion of brass, electronics, hip-hop and beats. various dates and times until 6 Aug, Boom Chicago

maican dancehall, traditional Georgian singing and a range of dance disciplines, with a healthy dose of humour. Sat 15 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 22:00, €10-€27.50 MEZRAB STORYTELLING NIGHT The original Mezrab Storytelling Night where anyone gets to claim the stage and anything goes. Fri 21 Jul & 18 Aug, Mezrab, 20:00, free JULIUS CAESAR Brassy in more ways than one, this outdoor presentation of Shakespeare's Julius Caesar bubbles with musicality. A collaboration with Stadsschouwburg, its cast of five actors is paired with the musicians of K.O.Brass!. Primary language is Dutch. various dates from 26 Jul, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 21:00 ORANGE TEA THEATRE – ONE NIGHT ONLY Join the local theatre group as they unveil new plays, host readings and even a spot of improvised theatre. Performances are in English. Thur 27 Jul, TOON, 20:00, €15 DE PARADE THEATRE FESTIVAL With a slew of live music performances, activities, culinary delights and a truly unique atmosphere, this travelling theatre festival guarantees a memorable evening even if you don’t speak the local lingo. 11-27 Aug, Martin Luther Kingpark, deparade.nl SUMMER DANCE FOREVER Expect a huge range of dance genres that will fuel an entire week of parties, workshops and fully fledged ‘battles’ across the capital. 15-23 Aug, various locations, summerdanceforever.com

SANNE PEPER

PUB QUIZ XL Pub Quiz XL is exactly what it says on the tin... a pub quiz on a grand scale. It's in Dutch, but surtitled to be accessible to international audiences. Tue 8 Aug, Boom Chicago, 20:15, €10-€20 (or €2.50 to watch)

performer Albert Khoza dances his way through the seven deadly sins. Tue 4 & Wed 5 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 19:00 (Wed 20:30), €25

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

MEDEA Euripides’ tragic heroine is one of the most divisive figures in Greek drama. In this modernised version by Toneelgroep Amsterdam, directed by the Australian Simon Stone, she is a successful doctor who tries to save her marriage and her career. However, her mental health, family life and career deteriorate until she tumbles into the abyss. Performed in Dutch with English surtitles as part of a summer run that hopes to introduce top quality Dutch theatre to broader international audiences. Fri 25-Sun 27, Wed 30 & Thur 31 Aug, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00 (Sun 16:00), €21-€33.50

THE YEAR OF CANCER Luk Perceval directs the Toneelgroep Amsterdam in this stage adaptation of the novel 'Het jaar van de kreeft' ('The Year of Cancer') by the Belgian writer Hugo Claus. In Dutch, with English surtitles. Wed 16-Sat 19, Tue 22-Sat 26 Aug, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€36.50 THE WORLD’S BIGGEST SWAN LAKE Tchaikovsky’s most famous ballet is bigger than ever in this collaborative piece from the Shanghai Ballet and top choreographer Derek Deane. Forty-eight swans take the place of the original 16, amplifying the ballet’s ethereal appeal. The rendition is true to the original work but promises a grander, more magical experience at the Royal Theater Carré. Tue 22 Aug-Sun 10 Sep, Royal Theater Carré, various times, €22-€68

jul & aug 2017

FESTIVALS FESTIVALS EVENTS

for adult crowds. every Sat in Jul & Aug, Artis, artis.nl

MUSEUM MARKET This design market on Amsterdam’s Museumplein offers fashion, accessories, textiles, homewares, jewellery, stationery and much more, all by local designers. 16 Jul & 20 Aug, Museumplein, museummarket.nl

VONDELPARK OPEN-AIR THEATRE Steeped in musical and theatrical history, every weekend in summer Amsterdam’s famous Vondelpark presents a programme packed with dance, cabaret, jazz, children's theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. Check the official website to see the schedule each weekend. Jul & Aug, Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre, openluchttheater.nl

ARTZUID Artzuid is a four-month event putting amazing contemporary sculptures from all over the world on display in Amsterdam Zuid. Look for 60 abstract sculptures installed in the district’s beautiful Berlage-designed avenues (primarily the Apollolaan and Minervalaan) and through the Zuidas business district. There's free access to the exhibition 24/7. The event's central info point can be found at Minervalaan 1. Until 17 Sep, various locations, artzuid.nl FILMS WITH A VIEW – SUNSCREENINGS Promising programming that's a mix between effortlessly masterful cult classics, arthouse gems and world cinema, snuggle up on a beanbag or with a blanket and enjoy a movie in the open air. every Tue in Jul & Aug, Pllek, pllek.nl ON THE ROOF On the Roof festival series in Amsterdam-Noord showcases a wealth of jazz and world music acts atop a riverside business unit. Concerts mainly take place on Friday, Saturday or Sunday evenings. various dates in Jul & Aug, Op Zeezand, on-the-roof.com WESTWAARTS A collaboration between Podium Mozaïek and the Amsterdam district of West, this diverse cultural event provides a host of music, theatre, dance, cabaret and circus fun for the entire family, with plenty of surprises thrown in along the way. 1 & 2; 8 & 9 Jul, Erasmuspark, westwaarts.com PITCH FESTIVAL Geared towards lovers of smart, edgy electronic music, this acclaimed festival has moved to NDSM in 2017 – a perfect location for sauntering back and forth from show to show on a warm summer's day. 1 Jul, NDSM Wharf, pitchfestival.nl ARTIS ZOOMERAVONDEN On Saturday evenings throughout summer, party animals in Artis gather expectantly in their enclosures. Yip, ZOOmeravonden (Summer Evenings) at Artis Royal Zoo lets visitors learn what the animals get up to after hours by staying open until sunset on every Saturday from June through August. There’s plenty of activities for families and also live music performances

VERKNIPT FESTIVAL Verknipt are Amsterdambased club organisers that have recently made a name for themselves by throwing inventive nights celebrating electronic music ranging from deep house to techno. Now they’re going on a summer adventure, bringing along their old faithfuls, up-and-coming talent and international names to five stages. 1 Jul, Riekerhaven, verknipt.org KETI KOTI FESTIVAL 1 July 1863 marked freedom for the Surinamese from slavery and nowhere is that more celebrated than in Amsterdam, home to a thriving Surinamese community and host to this annual festival. Come celebrate and commemorate this rich culture and its people through food, music, dance and ceremony! A parade and remembrance ceremony take place early in the day, followed by a vibrant festival, including live performances. 1 Jul, Oosterpark, ketikotiamsterdam.nl JULIDANS Committed, daring and cutting-edge, Julidans offers nearly two weeks of ground-breaking dance performances from around the world. As well as breathtaking dance talents in a host of Dutch or world premieres, you can also discover the next generation of choreographers and dancers at Julidans NEXT. 4-15 Jul, various locations, julidans.nl COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL The world famous Comedytrain steams into town for four weeks of sensational comedy performances, featuring a host of top stand-up talents from the UK, the US, Australia and Canada. It's a tag-team affair as two comedians perform on four consecutive nights (Wed to Sat) before handing the baton to another duo, who do the honours the following week. Pairs include Alfie Brown & Bilal Zafar, Jamali Maddix & Sarah Kendall, Drew Michael & Tom Rhodes, and Hannah Gadsby & Josh Howie. 5 Jul-5 Aug, Toomler, toomler.com/international-shows

Choice festivals

ROBECO SUMMERNIGHTS An integral part of the city’s summer cultural calendar, this two-month series never fails to draw in the biggest names from the classical, pop, jazz and world music scenes. Look out for some iconic stars collaborating with European orchestras and soloists that rarely make it to Amsterdam, as well as popular theme evenings, such as SummerNight at the Movies. Check out our classical and pop listings for some of the Robeco SummerNights highlights. 1 Jul-31 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, www.concertgebouw.nl/en/robeco-summernights SENSATION – THE FINAL It's been a highlight of Amsterdam's dance music event calendar for 18 years already, but now Sensation is unleashing its final stadium spectacular in the city. Naturally, this is unlikely to be the end of the Sensation name, and they certainly won't bow out on a sad note either. Look out for some of the biggest names in dance music in the process, as well as a cuttingedge visual production. 8 Jul, Amsterdam ArenA, sensation.com ELECTRONIC PICNIC Every summer, the Leeghwaterpark in Purmerend to the north of Amsterdam becomes a playground for dance lovers, with a particular focus on house, hardstyle and eclectic tunes. 8 Jul, Leeghwaterpark in Purmerend, electronicpicnic.nl LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS As well as its sport and recreation facilities, the dazzling nature of Amsterdamse Bos is home to a picturesque openair theatre that reopens for the summer season. Besides theatrical performances in Dutch, look out for diverse singersongwriter and pop acts. Jul & Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, liveatamsterdamsebos.nl MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK The summer edition of this utterly fashionable festival features an industry programme and various public elements

AMSTERDAM GAY PRIDE The city is a rainbow of events in gay and straight venues alike as Gay Pride comes to town, from dance parties to film festivals, sporting events, culture and more. The flamboyant centrepiece of the festival is naturally the Canal Parade (5 August) where lavishly decorated boats parade around the city’s canals. Beyond that, there's something for everyone: young, old, sporty, party freak, book nerd... Celebrations kick off officially on 29 July with the Pride Walk from the Homomonument to Pride Park (Vondelpark). 29 Jul-6 Aug, various locations, pride.amsterdam that turn the city’s streets into a catwalk and the bars into glamorous parties, showcasing the finest in European style. 13-16 Jul, Westergasfabriek, fashionweek.nl TREK FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL For this culinary festival, numerous food trucks, yes, trek through the entire country to provide visitors to city parks tasty treats and drinks, plus live music, theatre and other entertainment. 14-16 Jul, Amstelpark, festival-trek.nl OVER HET IJ FESTIVAL Catch the ferry across the River IJ and before you know it, you'll find yourself on the lively festival grounds offering a summery blend of site-specific theatre, DJs and fabulous food. Although many performances are in Dutch, there's still plenty for internationals to enjoy in this celebratory 25th edition. 14-23 Jul, NDSM Wharf, overhetij.nl KWAKU SUMMER FESTIVAL Amsterdam’s Nelson Mandelapark is a colourful place to be in summertime as the Kwaku Summer Festival returns for four consecutive weekends of multicultural fun. Embrace a wealth of food, drink, sport, live music, poetry and dance performances. On 23 July, the festival turns over its programming to Pink Sunday, as a precursor to Amsterdam Gay Pride. 15 Jul-6 Aug, Nelson Mandelapark, kwakufestival.nl

HORTUS FESTIVAL Providing a beautiful way to spend a balmy and cultured summer evening, the Hortus Festival brings classical music to the botanical gardens of Amsterdam, Haren, Leiden and Utrecht. The theme this year is 'Crown Jewels'. 19 Jul-27 Aug, Hortus Botanicus, hortusfestival.nl HAPPY SUSHI FESTIVAL This festival is a match made in heaven for any sushi lover, giving attendees the chance to try as many sushi dishes as they can handle – all prepared by chefs from over 50 renowned sushi joints. There'll also be live performances across a variety of different genres, including indie, rock, jazz, funk and reggae. Nothing fishy about that. 28 & 29 Jul, Blijburg aan Zee, facebook.com/happysushifestival VUNZIGE DEUNTJES FESTIVAL Vunzige Deuntjes (‘dirty tunes’) steps outside for another edition of their fun and filthy festival celebrating raw dance music and dirty beats, this time with the likes of Ronnie Flex, Jonna Fraser and De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig. 29 & 30 Jul, Diemerbos, vunzigedeuntjes.nl GAASPER PLEASURE The annual festival is jampacked with DJs – expect sets by international names and stars of the local scene – while its site is a picturesque waterside area next to the Gaasperplas, south-east of the city. Look out for the likes of 2000 and One, Nathan Surreal and Juan Sanchez. 29 Jul, Gaasperplas, gaasperpleasure.nl MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL Not just your average festival, this is an event with a clear message about respect, freedom, love, tolerance, outof the-box thinking and of course, plenty of tunes and festival fun. The Milkshake Festival is home to multiple stages, each with its own defining character and acts, so expect plenty of outrageous music alongside breathtaking decor and performance art. 29 & 30 Jul, Westerpark, milkshakefestival.com LANDJUWEEL FESTIVAL Drawing on the late medieval tradition of a Flemish poets' festival, Landjuweel has grown into a multi-day cultural happening featuring theatrical explosions, poetry, music, experimental art, workshops and a scintillating programme for the kids. 2-6 Aug, Ruigoord, ruigoord.nl DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL The lush forest and grassy meadows of Amsterdamse Bos makes for a sweet setting to host an electronic music festival, plus this party kicks off with indoor performances

PART IV THE A-LIST.

FESTIVALS in Muziekgebouw, Tolhuistuin, Bimhuis and Shelter. The 2017 line-up includes the likes of Jon Hopkins, Floating Points, Jeff Mills & Tony Allen, Jameszoo, Joy Orbison, Optimo and Andy Stott. 2-6 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos (& various locations), dekmantelfestival.com CANAL PARADE Amsterdam Gay Pride remains one of the best celebrations of its kind around the globe, and the world-famous Canal Parade is one of its most memorable highlights. Participants on 80 vessels will soak up the Dutch sun and put on a show with their onboard DJ. 5 Aug, various locations, pride.amsterdam

dance in the heart of Amsterdam. Expect a huge range of dance genres that will fuel an entire week of parties, workshops and fully fledged ‘battles’ across the capital. 15-23 Aug, various locations, summerdanceforever.com PLUK DE NACHT Featuring genres ranging from absurd rom-coms to hauntingly muffled horror flicks, this outdoor film festival is a breath of al-fresco air with unique offerings of not-yet-released films, animations, documentaries and shorts. The selection is assuredly friendly for international audiences. 16-26 Aug, Stenen Hoofd, plukdenacht.nl

GRACHTENFESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Amsterdam’s historic centre hosts this ten-day festival of classical music at numerous unique locations. An annual highlight has to be the Prinsengracht Concert – a spectacular classical extravaganza on the city centre canal. 11-20 Aug, various locations, grachtenfestival.nl

WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM Celebrating the many exceptional films made in Latin America, Asia and Africa, this festival screens more than 40 feature-length and short films (indoor and outdoor) alongside an extensive programme of Q&A sessions, masterclasses, debates and parties. 17-26 Aug, various locations, worldcinemaamsterdam.nl

DE PARADE THEATRE FESTIVAL With a slew of live music performances, activities, culinary delights and a truly unique atmosphere, this travelling theatre festival guarantees a memorable evening even if you don’t speak the local lingo. 11-27 Aug, Martin Luther Kingpark, deparade.nl

DUTCH VALLEY Dutch Valley follows in the ambitious footsteps of its sister, but instead of focusing solely on dance music, it showcases all aspects of Dutch pop music – past and present, popular and up-and-coming. 19 Aug, Velsen Valley Spaarnwoude, dutchvalleyfestival.nl

LOVELAND FESTIVAL With an international line-up never to be sniffed at, Loveland is traditionally one of the biggest dance music parties of the season. Expect an amazing production and elaborate staging, big name DJs, graffiti artists, delicious food and, of course, the unexpected. 12 Aug, Sloterpark, lovelandfestival.com

ENCORE FESTIVAL Summer is sure to be hotter than ever as Encore bounces out of its usual club night digs at the Melkweg for a full-on festival with multiple stages, a host of performers and quality hip-hop guaranteed. Look out for the likes of Tory Lanez and Migos, some of this edition's biggest acts. 19 Aug, NDSM Wharf, encorefestival.nl

APPELSAP FRESH MUSIC FESTIVAL Appelsap (translated literally as Apple Juice) represents everything that's fresh, so spend a day in the Flevopark with a refreshing drink or two, a host of cutting-edge hip-hop and electro acts, plus crate-loads of DJs! Headliner this year is American rap star Lil Wayne. 12 Aug, Flevopark, appelsap.net/festival DANCE VALLEY Dance Valley has been turning the green hills of Spaarnwoude into the beating heart of the international dance community for over twenty years. Expect a spectacle of lights, smoke, huge production and – of course – banging tunes from a progressive line-up. 12 Aug, Velsen Valley Spaarnwoude, dancevalley.com SUMMER DANCE FOREVER This international festival fixes the spotlights firmly on urban

STRAF WERK FESTIVAL This popular dance fest boasts multiple stages and a huge line-up comprising established artists and up-and-coming talents. This year's big three: Âme, Todd Terje and Adriatique. 19 Aug, Blijburg aan Zee, strafwerkfestival.nl HARTJESDAGEN Originally a medieval national holiday, this tradition has today developed a carnival personality complete with cross-dressers, street opera, a dragon dance and lots of food and drink. 19-21 Aug, Zeedijk, stichtinghartjesdagen.nl LATIN VILLAGE FESTIVAL Acts from all over the Netherlands and beyond hit this festival’s six stages to offer up a hearty mix of dance music and authentic salsa. 20 Aug, Velsen Valley Spaarnwoude, a-venue.nl

GAY & LESBIAN JORDAAN FESTIVAL Famous Dutch musicians return annually to croon among local folk heroes at this festival – and when the sun sets, the action continues at classic singalong bars in the Jordaan. It's one big celebration of ballads and 'levensliederen' (songs about life). There's also a bonus closing event in the DeLaMar Theater on 28 August. 25 & 26 Aug, Appeltjesmarkt, jordaanfestival.nl UITMARKT Annually attracting more than 450,000 visitors, the Uitmarkt is one of the country’s most popular cultural events and the traditional opening of the cultural season. The festival features more than 300 performances across some 30 stages. From classical to kid-friendly, hip-hop to dance and theatre to jazz – there’s something for everyone. In addition to performances, there's also the Manuscripta book market, Uitmarkt Junior for the kids and an abundance of information booths and stands. 25-27 Aug, Oosterdok area, uitmarkt.nl VOLTT LOVES SUMMER This annual one-day techno festival always attracts an impressive domestic and international DJ line-up. But it’s more than a musical spectacle: there’s a traditional focus on the finer things in life, with an enormous chill-out area, plenty of delicious food & cocktails and a vintage market. 26 Aug, NDSM Wharf, voltt.com MYSTERYLAND With fairy-tale surroundings, open fields and intimate spaces, Mysteryland has built up a reputation as one of the most unique dance festivals in the world. Course, it isn't a case of style before substance, as it also brings together some of the biggest names in EDM, like Armin van Buuren, Deadmau5 and Alesso. 26 & 27 Aug, Floriade festival grounds, Haarlemmermeer, mysteryland.nl

REGULAR EVENTS GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month. Club Lite, garboforwomen.nl GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie. The reception – with a welcome drink – usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathé website for movie and time. pathe.nl/event/gaynight

MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL Not just your average festival, this is an event with a clear message about respect, freedom, love, tolerance, out-of the-box thinking and of course, plenty of tunes and festival fun. The Milkshake Festival is home to multiple stages, each with its own defining character and acts, so expect plenty of outrageous music alongside breathtaking decor and performance art. 29 & 30 Jul, Westerpark, milkshakefestival.com

AMSTERDAM GAY PRIDE The city is a rainbow of events in gay and straight venues alike as Gay Pride comes to town, from dance parties to film festivals, sporting events, culture HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS and more. The flamboyant Horsemen and Knights is the centrepiece of the festival is big willy gay play and cruise naturally the Canal Parade (5 party, taking place in the afAugust) where lavishly decternoon every third Sunday of orated boats parade around the month. Dress code: naked the city’s canals. Beyond that, or underwear. there's something for everyone: Doors open 15:00-16:00 young, old, sporty, party freak, Eagle, horsemen.nl book nerd... Celebrations kick off officially on 29 July with the MELLOW MONDAY Pride Walk from the HomoRecharge after your busy monument to Pride Park (Vonweekend with free foot and delpark). While Pride at the shoulder massages, free Beach in Zandvoort on 31 July is snacks, free detox scrubs, and the perfect excuse to break out dry and steam saunas. that thong... as if an excuse was Every Mon, Sauna NZ, needed. 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, 29 Jul-6 Aug, various locamen only. tions, pride.amsterdam NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15 SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is 'No Towel Night' (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00. Every Tue, Sauna NZ, saunanieuwezijds.nl

ADDRESSES Club Air Amstelstraat 16 www.clubair.nl Akhnaton Nieuwezijdskolk 25-27 akhnaton.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eagle Warmoesstraat 90 theeagleamsterdam.com Club Lite Jan van Galenstraat 24 clublite.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.n Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl

(Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at THE BRAVE FESTIVAL Club Church in Amsterdam. A welcome palate cleanser for The dress code is strictly enthe city's dance music epidemforced: briefs and jocks are ic, this festival shines a light on welcome; swimming trunks, singer-songwriters, folk and boxers, sports shorts or going indie music – and not a bloody commando are also permitted. advert DJ in sight. Board shorts, Bermudas or 26 Aug, Tuinen van West, other streetwear prohibited. festivalthebrave.nl Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, AMSTERDAM IN-WATER 22:00-05:00, €10 BOAT SHOW This off-shoot of the Amsterdam Boat Show encourages seafaring folks and watersports ONE-OFF EVENTS fans to get up close and personal with sailing ships, boats LADZ and lots of other nautical stuff. There’s plenty of action on the The gay dance party for lads, water, plus lectures, presenta- scallies, gabbers, sneaker- and tions and workshops sportswear boys. DJs play the 29 Aug-3 Sep, NDSM Wharf, harder styles of dance music. hiswatewater.nl Sat 29 July, Club Church, 22:00-5:00 16 – 26 AUG SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

THE YEAR OF CANCER

jul & aug 2017

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE GIEGLING Ten hours of music by the men behind Germany’s hot and melodic underground techno label Giegling. Finding out if this is your niche doesn’t even involve night crawling so what are you waiting for? Sat 1 Jul, Thuishaven, 13:0023:00, €15 CARL CRAIG ALL NIGHT LONG There are many great electronic artists who call Detroit home. Most of them have a nickname to underline their greatness: Kevin ‘ Master Reese’ Saunderson, Derrick ‘The Innovator’ May, Anthony ‘Shake’ Shakir… But (who may be) the biggest one of all is known only by his real name Carl Craig. Why is then is he potentially bigger than all the others? Probably because his excellence covers so many genres: techno, house, club, dub and beyond. So you’ve guessed it right: this all-nighter won’t be boring! Sat 1 Jul, Paradiso, 23:0005:00, €17.50 BRAINWASH Everything is big room and exciting about this club night: the music, the go-go dancers and the performances. DJs alternate: Raymundo, Carita La Nina, 2Dirty, Dennis Quin, Frederik Abas, Greg van Bueren, Sander den Ouden and Jethro Galung. Every Sat, Escape, 23:0005:00, €16 TECHNO TUESDAY With so many clubs up and running in such a small city, Amsterdam is already a raver’s paradise, but as of this summer we’re officially back in the roaring nineties when clubbing was a thing on every single school night. Techno Tuesday represents a total denial of office life, day to day duties, bills that need paying... Lovely isn’t it! Tonight’s techno comes from DJ Dexon and Chicago Loop. Every Tues, Melkweg, 23:3005:00, FREE BIG NIGHT OUT No scruffy beer-stained dance floors, but plenty of grandeur and glitter at this weekly stuadvert

25 AUG – 10 SEP AUGUST: SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

dent disco night where Billy the Klit, Daniel L Mebius, Ziggy, Kevin Orduna, Joshua Walter play eclectic club music on rotation. Every Thurs, Escape, 23:0005:00, €10 HOUSE RULES Mainstream classic club night where Raymundo, Troj, Thomas Hensbroek, Robert Feelgood, Gabriel & Castellon, Jasper Clash and Yssf Flex play catchy house on rotation. Every Fri, Escape, 23:00-05:00, €16 25 YEARS DJ ISIS Back in the mid 1990s teenager Isis van der Wel was one of the first female DJs to become known locally. If you like DJs Dimitri and Marcello then this may be your thing too. Sat 8 Jul, Roest, 22:00-03:00, FREE BREAKFAST CLUB: A SUMMER PICK NICK The misleadingly-christened event Breakfast Club happens irregularly, and more than just a breakfast, the event is one Amsterdam’s most (in)famous after parties. The generous opening hours give you two options: pre-party elsewhere and continue with a jus d’orange and a croissant or consume exactly the same meal but have a little sleep beforehand. DJs Anthony Linell, Jaime Frias, Ivano Tetelepta (Live), Nicolas Lutz and Tommy Kornuijt b2b Mark Antoni play techno and house. Sun 9 Jul, Atelier, 10:00-22:00, €18.50 THUISHAVEN ZOMERCIRCUS The summer edition of the Winter Circus… With DJs Tom Trago (Voyage Direct, Rush Hour, ten hour set), William Djoko (Voyage Direct) and Palmbomen II (Non Records) playing sunny, happy and soulful music of a certain quality. Sun 16 Jul, Escape, 13:00-23:00, €16 SUMMER OF LOVE #4 REAL HOUSE CLASSICS 89/90 On paper, this may well be the most promising classics party of the year. It seems though, that by limiting the music to anything that came out in 1989 and 1990, DJs Steve Cop, Eric Nouhan (Outland Records, Spiritual Records), Marcello, Erick E, Lucien Foort, Brian S, Jurgen, Jean, Alexander Koning and others will be facing a challenging task. But DJs are generally rebels, they may dodge the rules and play a few mid-nineties gems, who knows... Sat 22 Jul, Thuishaven, 13:00-23:00, €28

Choice clubbing

CLUBBING

DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL: SUNDAY Save your energy for the fifth and last day of Dekmantel Festival as it is the very best. Larry Heard aka Mr Fingers, the man behind house music’s biggest tune ‘Can You Feel It?’, plays an unusual live show, Detroit’s badass electro collective Ultradyne (live) will be sounding very deep, last year’s Lentekabinet hit Shanti Celeste (NTS Radio) will not disappoint with her housey set, Karenn (live) are rock hard and banging, and Masters at Work, Beverly Hills 808303 aren’t what you’d call fillers either. Sun 6 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, 13:00-23:00, €45

JUNGLE VS DRUM & BASS A great bill tonight for fans of break beats and super fast basslines. Doc Scott started making beats early on in the 90s – his classic amen breaks loaden tune ‘Here Come the Drums’ sounds dated now but is still an enjoyable listen. Aphrodite appeared in the mid 90s when his so called jump-up style of drum & bass remained popular for a couple of years. Check out his signature track ‘King of the Beats’. Fri 11 Aug, Melkweg, 23:0006:00, €22

PITCH Pitch isn’t quite the cutting edge festival it once used to be but the line up of this one day festival is still more than decent. Our favourites? London’s washed out ambient and techno producer Actress, and local but nonetheless very exciting new-ish kid on the block Jarreau Vandall who can make you dance to literally anything, from R&B to hip-hop and from house to yacht rock (!). Sat 1 Jul, NDSM Wharf, 12:00-23:00, €15

COOKIN’ Cookin’ resident Hellie Berrie plays a healthy mix of vintage and futuristic disco for the sophisticated dance floor fan. Fri 4 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, 23:00-04:00, €5 DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL: SATURDAY Day by day, the line-ups are getting better at Dekmantel Festival with the bill on the second to last day looking very decent. Deep ambient-trance producer Jon Hopkins gets us very excited alongside Hessle Audio head honcho Ben UFO, underground techno producers Donato Dozzy and Peter van Hoesen playing a hybrid live/DJ set, and Jon K playing a back-to-back gig with Joy ‘hyph mngo’ Orbison. Sat 5 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, 13:00-23:00, €45 LOVELAND This once not very interesting festival has become more and more decent over the years. 2017’s edition is jam-packed with house and techno names from the top shelf, including Adam Beyer, Ben Sims, Dennis Ferrer, Luke Slater, Michael Mayer, Tale of Us, Slam, Sasha and Miss Melera. Sounds like a decent soundtrack to a good old rave. Sat 12 Aug, Sloterpark, 11:0023:00, €39.50 APPELSAP Amsterdam’s ultimate urban festival had an incomplete line up when we went to press. So far our theoretical highlight has to be the very spectacular DJ Jarreau Vandal (the man has no respect for musical boundaries!) alongside wicked Dutch MCs Kempi, Yung Nnelg, Bokoesam, Fresku, MocroManiac and more. Sat 12 Aug, Escape, 12:0023:00, €42.50 ENCORE Still a relative newcomer on the urban festival scene, and one that’s not likely to go anywhere over the next few years. While people tend to come for party vibes rather than headliners, securing big names is nevertheless a specialty of the Melkweg-associated organisers. Notable performers on this year’s bill include US hip-hop trio Migos (know for their hit ‘Versace’), much hyped Dutch rapper Jonna Fraser and Stefflon Don, a very exciting British female MC who grew up in Rotterdam. Sat 19 Aug, NDSM Wharf, 23:00-05:00, €16

LA FETE DU FRENCHCORE DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL: FRIDAY France’s answer to hardcore, gabba and techno is called A decent line up for frenchcore, a possibly even darDekmantel’s first day in the ker and more aggressive style forest. The baddest name on VOLTT LOVES SUMMER than its musical neighbours. the bill is mister Omar S, It’s an acquired taste (we have producer of the deepest Where most festivals tend to to admit), but once you’re in it, of Detroit house. blend most electronic genres THUISHAVEN ZOMERCIRCUS you’ll stay in it, whether that’s a Other highlights include Bicep these days, good old Voltt sticks good thing or not. DJ Sprinky, (live), Joe Claussell, Nina to techno, almost exclusively. It’s home sweet home for Dr. Peacock, Sefa, Hyrule War, Kraviz, Job Jobse B2B Midland, Expect banging sets from Alan euphoric house DJ Miss Radium, Digital Violence and Robert Hood (hybrid live/DJ Fitzpatrick, Levon Vincent, Melera after her world tour. To others bring the terror to the set), Joey Anderson and Bart Skils, Oscar Mulero, celebrate her return, she’s set to terror dome. Young Marco. Mathew Johnson, Marcel Detplay a daunting 10-hour set. Sat 29 Jul, H7 Warehouse, Fri 4 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, tmann and others. Sun 23 Jul, Thuishaven, 22:00-06:00, €17.50 13:00-23:00, €45 Sat 26 Aug, Escape, 12:0013:00-23:00, €15 23:00, €42.50

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT AMSTERDAMART.COM.

PER, IRON, CONSTRUCTION AND WOOD 2017, ACRYLIC ON CANVAS

SVEN KRONER, UNIVERSUM UNTER DEM TISCH, MICHEL CARDENA, ‘CARDENA RÉCHAUFFE MON-

DRIAN, IVES KLEIN ET MALEWITCH’, 1972-1973

ROBERTO CODA ZABETTA, NEXT FILM PART.2, 2017,

PIGMENT, ENAMEL AND TAR PASTE ON CANVAS

MASSINISSA SELMANI, RELEVÉ DU DEHORS #6. 2013,

Karen Sargsyan grew up in Armenia but has been working all over the globe since 1999. His famous multi layered installations show the essence of human being. He looks at life as theatre and shows ﬁgures that are in the middle of a life changing event, because that is the moment human beings show their true nature.

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15 JULY – 26 AUG Juliette Jongma Galerie Gerard Doustraat 128a

2. SVEN KRONER

GRAPHITE ON RECYCLED PAPER

KAREN SARGSYAN, ATLAS SHRUGGED, 2016, PA-

1. KAREN SARGSYAN

Through open windows and colourful greenhouses, Sven Kroner’s studio has become his main subject. He brings the outside world inside and illustrates the artiﬁcialness enclosed within his work, emphasising that each image is a construction. UNTIL 29 JULY Gallery Fons Welters Bloemstraat 140

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3. SELMANI

This is the ﬁrst time that Selmani’s drawings and animations are on view in the Netherlands. His work is mingled with humour, irony and sometimes a sense of revolt. Gallery Akinci also shows the idiosyncratic and abstract paintings of Albrecht Schnider, who uses sprayed acrylic lacquer to avoid irregularities in the paint, resulting in striking colours.

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UNTIL 20 AUG Galerie Akinci Lijnbaansgracht 317

4. WARMING UP

a rose is a rose is a rose presents 'Warming Up’, the ﬁrst posthumous overview of the work of Miguel-Angel Cardenas (1934-2015) in the Netherlands. Born and educated in Colombia, Cardenas moved to the Netherlands in 1962, where he invigorated the art scene with his ‘zipper’ assemblages and drawings.

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UNTIL 20 AUG a rose is a rose is a rose (SMBA) Rozenstraat 59

5. ZABETTA

Roberto Coda Zabetta shows a series of striking paintings that display a new evolution in the artist’s work. For him, painting is a state of mind and, at the same time, a physical necessity that gives form to the magmatic chaos of matter. .

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UNTIL 29 JULY Annet Gelink Gallery Rozenstraat 59

FILM FAVOURITES THE BIG SICK

Love can be a tricky thing, even if you don’t have parents who expect you to get married to a nice Pakistani girl. Comedian Kumail Nanjiani (Silicon Valley) mines his own meet-cute with his wife and co-writer Emily Gordon (here embodied by Zoe Kazan) for all its worth. Holly Hunter, Ray Romano co-star. Directed by Michael Showalter Release 13 July

Chance Harvey, The Love Punch). Emily’s (Diane Keaton) love life has been practically non-existent since the death of her good-for-nothing husband. Perhaps lovable vagabond Donald (Brendan Gleeson) will turn the tide? Directed by Joel Hopkins Release 17 August

TULIP FEVER

What do you get when you put top actors like Kristin Scott Thomas, Timothy Spall, Patricia Clarkson and Bruno Ganz into a room together for 70 minutes? The answer is The Party by Sally Potter (Orlando, Yes, Ginger & Rosa), a surprisingly light-hearted tragicomic chamber piece… at least by Potter’s own standards. Directed by Sally Potter Release 31 August

Tulip Fever, about the forbidden love between a married woman (Alicia Vikander) and a painter (Dane DeHaan) in 17th-century Amsterdam, promises to be every period ﬁlm lover’s wet dream: based on the book by the author of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, adapted by the Oscar winning scribe of Shakespeare in Love and directed by the man from The Other Boleyn Girl. Also: Tulips! Directed by Justin Chadwick Release 31 August

UNA

BABY DRIVER

THE PARTY

When 28-year-old Una (Rooney Mara) tracks down 40-something Ray (Ben Mendelsohn), the latter is less than thrilled. The last time they saw each other she was 13 (played by Ruby Stokes) and he was going to prison because of their illicit relationship. Based on the play Blackbird by David Harrower. Directed by Benedict Andrews Release 13 July

ANGELS IN AMERICA 1&2

This summer you don’t have to travel to London to see Tony Kushner’s groundbreaking and award-winning two-part play Angels in America, starring Andrew Garﬁeld, Russell Tovey and Nathan Lane. This time, the West End comes to you in a live broadcast (in two sittings) in Pathé Tuschinski. 20 (Part 1) & 27 (Part 2) July at Pathé Tuschinski.

HAMPSTEAD

Who says romance is dead after 50 (or 60, or even 70)? Certainly not director Joel Hopkins, who has become somewhat of a connoisseur of romantic comedies for the more mature (Last

When a young getaway driver called Baby (Ansel Elgort) decides he’ll do just one last gig, you know the shit is going to hit the fan. Come for the bubblegum crime caper love story, stay to hear tough guys played by Jamie Foxx, Jon Hamm, Jon Bernthal and Kevin Spacey say the word ‘Baby’ over and over (and over) again. Directed by Edgar Wright. Release 29 June

KRITERION AFTER MIDNIGHT

Some movies are best served after midnight, and luckily they’ve now found a home at Kriterion on Saturday nights (the movie changes once a month). This July sit back for Green Room, a psychological thriller where members of a punk rock band (Anton Yelchin, Imogen Poots and Alia Shawkat) get caught up in a deadly brawl with a group of neonazis, led by Sir Patrick Stewart. Every Saturday at 00.15 kriterion.nl

jul & aug 2017

KIDS & FAMILY AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows and seven actors in one terrifying experience! Rokin 78, the-dungeons.nl. Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18. AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park. Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, amsterdamsebos.nl. Various times & prices. ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Features quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including the diary itself. Suitable for children over 10. Prinsengracht 263-267, annefrank.org. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50. ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes grazing amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion, or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, artis.nl. Open daily 9:00-18:00; €20.50, ages 3-9 €17. BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor go-karting track, for ages 8 and up. Helmets and protective clothing are included. There’s also a large playground, bowling alley and restaurant. Herwijk 10, raceplanet.com. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-23:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-23:00; various packages available. COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio. Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, cobra-museum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6. Children’s Studio Sun 11:00-14:00; free. HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhibitions and a café. Plantage Middenlaan 2A, dehortus.nl.

Open Mon-Sat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50. HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated north of Amsterdam, between Zaanstad and Purmerend. Rent canoes, and row, pedal or even sailboats. hettwiske.nl. KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located in the Vondelpark. Children (ages 5 to 12) do everything to help run the restaurant. Vondelpark 6b, kinderkookkafe.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:00; various prices. DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam. Dijksgracht 2, deklimmuur.nl. Various times & prices. LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling lanes, or pit yourself against the enemy in the laser-tag arena. De Ruyterkade 153, loverspowerzone.nl. Various times & prices. MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL A subtropical swimming complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor pools and wave machines. Amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant. De Mirandalaan 9, mirandabad.nl. Various times & prices. PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s waters make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages. Ms van Riemsdijkweg pannenkoekenboot.nl. Various times & prices. HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids. Kattenburgerplein 1, scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 9:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under 5 free. SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to science and technology. Oosterdok 2, e-nemo.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under 4 free. TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR The Tropenmuseum is renowned for its Junior building's interactive exhibitions introducing children to new cultures in a playful way. Linnaeusstraat 2, tropenmuseum.nl. Open Mon-Sun 10:00-17:00, €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under 4 free.

TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000 m2 indoor playground. Mr Visserplein 7, tunfun.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free. VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior wing shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime. Plantage Kerklaan 61, verzetsmuseum.org. Open TueFri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under 7 free.

right across Morocco. Try your hand at mosaics, calligraphy, fashion or culinary secrets. Tropenmuseum, until 27 Aug

of activities for families and also live music performances for adult crowds. every Sat in Jul & Aug, Artis, artis.nl

PUPPET SHOW ON THE DAM Something of an Amsterdam institution, this puppet show sets up on Dam Square every Sunday for multiple shows (13:00, 14:00, 15:00 and 16:00). Performances are in Dutch, but given the young target audience, the visuals in these familiar stories have as much impact as any words spoken. every Sun, Dam Square, poppenkastopdedam.nl

Highlight kids

VENUES

JUNIOR GRACHTENFESTIVAL An integral part of the Grachtenfestival Amsterdam the Junior Grachtenfestival offers all kinds of fun musical activities to under 12s. Various events and activities are organised with the aim of introducing children to classical music: there’s storytelling, theatre performances, games and workshops, with plenty of fun planned for children of all ages. Also look out for the free Prinsengracht Concert on 19 August, which includes a children's concert at 16:00. 11-20 Aug, various locations, juniorgrachtenfestival.nl WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs. Westerpark, woestewesten.nl. Playground supervisor present Mon & Tue 12:00-18:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00.

EVENTS ZIEZO MAROKKO Take a virtual trip to Morocco in the Tropenmuseum Junior. On the way you’ll meet Esmaa, Fatima, Nasrdin and Yousef. Follow their trail through the medina – a maze of narrow streets and alleys – and go on a bus trip

HET FIEPTHEATER A celebration of Fiep Westendorp, the Dutch illustrator renowned for much-loved creations such as 'the black and white characters Jip en Janneke'. This small theatre in the attic of the Jewish Historical Museum's Children's Museum will bring some of her characters to life via animation, film and music. The museum shop contains a treasure trove of her works, including some exclusives, to bring home with you. until Dec, Jewish Historical Museum, 100jaarfiepwestendorp.nl WESTWAARTS A collaboration between Podium Mozaïek and the Amsterdam district of West, this diverse cultural event provides a host of music, theatre, dance, cabaret and circus fun for the entire family, with plenty of surprises thrown in along the way. 1 & 2; 8 & 9 Jul, Erasmuspark, westwaarts.com ARTIS ZOOMERAVONDEN On Saturday evenings throughout summer, party animals in Artis gather expectantly in their enclosures. Yip, ZOOmeravonden (Summer Evenings) at Artis Royal Zoo lets visitors learn what the animals get up to after hours by staying open until sunset on every Saturday from June through August. There’s plenty

OUT IN NATURE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS All through the summer, the Amsterdamse Bos is the ideal spot to entertain and educate kids about the nature on our doorstep. Look out for regular picnic events, guided walks with wardens, animal labs and more. Head to the Amsterdamse Bos website for the weekly schedule. Jul & Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, amsterdamsebos.nl KINDERFILMZOMER If the weather isn't behaving, keep the kids entertained in the cinema this summer. Every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, Rialto is screening a variety of movies aimed at audiences under six years. Think the likes of Finding Nemo and Fireman Sam (but in Dutch). There's also crafting and colouring for kids in the cinema's cafe. from 19 Jul, Rialto, rialtofilm.nl LANDJUWEEL FESTIVAL Drawing on the late medieval tradition of a Flemish poets' festival, Landjuweel has grown into a multi-day cultural happening featuring theatrical explosions, poetry, music, experimental art, workshops and a scintillating programme for the kids. 2-6 Aug, Ruigoord, ruigoord.nl UITMARKT Annually attracting more than 450,000 visitors, the Uitmarkt is one of the country’s most popular cultural events and the traditional opening of the cultural season. The festival features more than 300 performances across some 30 stages. From classical to kid-friendly, hip-hop to dance and theatre to jazz – there’s something for everyone. n addition to performances at the festival's large outdoor venues, there's also the Manuscripta book market, Uitmarkt Junior for the kids and an abundance of information booths and stands. 25-27 Aug, Oosterdok area, uitmarkt.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST.

SPORTS EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, Amsterdam’s skating extravaganza. Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where

ADRESSES gust, but look out for the team hosting a couple of friendly matches at the Amsterdam ArenA in the run-up to that. Fans also get to see the new playing squad in action for free during the traditional Training Day event. Jul & Aug, Amsterdam ArenA, ajax.nl

Highlight sport

URBAN SPORTS WEEK AMSTERDAM Head to Museumplein and other spots in the centre of Amsterdam for the second edition of this celebration of urban sports. Look out for events like the 3x3 Basketball Europe Cup, BMX, inline skating, freerunning, bouldering, skateboarding sessions and much more. Fans can watch professional athletes compete in flagship events and enjoy demos, clinics, musical performances, video screenings and parties. 5-9 Jul, Museumplein, urbansportsweekamsterdam.com

RABO EUROHOCKEY CHAMPIONSHIPS 2017 Catch the best European hockey players in action in Amsterdam this summer, as top national teams compete in the EuroHockey Championships 2017. England, Germany and, of course, the Netherlands are renowned for their strong male and female teams. Hosted at the newly renovated Wagener Stadium in the Amsterdamse Bos, expect sell-out crowds and a vibrant atmosphere throughout the tournament. Tickets are sold by day, rather than per match, ensuring you're guaranteed a feast of international hockey. The ParaHockey Championships also take place at HC Pinoké in Amsterdam. 18-27 Aug, Wagener Stadium, www.rabo-eurohockeychampionships2017.com you wouldn’t on your own. Check the website for route updates and news each week. every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, fridaynightskate.com AJAX They're Amsterdam's top football club, known around the world for their distinctive redand-white shirt and for their legacy of Dutch and European victories. The new Dutch football season kicks off on 11 Au-

FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run. 14 Jul & 11 Aug, Olympic Stadium, fridaynightrun.nl

OUT IN NATURE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS All through the summer, the Amsterdamse Bos is the ideal spot to entertain and educate kids about the nature on our doorstep. Look out for regular picnic events, guided walks, animal labs and more. Jul & Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, amsterdamsebos.nl FIBA 3X3 EUROPE CUP 2017 Part of Urban Sports Week Amsterdam, 3x3 basketball sees two teams of three players shooting into one basket. Even faster than full court basketball, Europe's best players will walk out into a mini stadium constructed on the Museumplein. Twelve men's teams and 12 women's teams will compete for the prizes, with the Netherlands hoping to come away with a medal or two before the World Cup comes to Amsterdam in 2019. 7-9 Jul, Museumplein, basketball.nl AMSTERDAM PIZZA RUN Sounding like a Nintendo dream, this 5K running event in the Amsterdamse Bos invites you to dress up like a pizza and tackle a course while avoiding tomatoes and giant blocks of cheese. Your reward come the finish line is a feast of pizza and wine, served by a wide variety of food trucks. [Whispers] You're also permitted to skip the run and go straight to the pizza trucks. 8 Jul, Amsterdamse Bos, amsterdampizzarun.nl KWAKU SUMMER FESTIVAL Amsterdam’s Nelson Mandelapark is a colourful place to be in summertime as the Kwaku Summer Festival returns for four consecutive weekends of multicultural fun. Embrace a wealth of food, drink, sport, live music, poetry and dance performances. 15 Jul-6 Aug, Nelson Mandelapark, kwakufestival.nl PRIDE RUN Get sweaty in the summer streets during the Dutch Gay and Lesbian Athletics' annual Pride Run. Starting just outside the city centre, with plenty of canal views and greenery to keep your spirits up, you can run a 5km, 10km, or if you’re really fit, a half-marathon. Whether you’re there for the fun, or for some serious athletics, you’ll enjoy the party atmosphere. Part of Amsterdam Gay Pride. 4 Aug, Sporthal Zeeburg, dgla.nl BOSBAAN SWIM Amsterdamse Bos hosts the annual open water swim contest, as hardy swimmers battle the natural elements to compete on the Amsterdamse Bos' chilly rowing lake. Competitors can choose from four distances: 500 metres, 1km, 1.5km and 2km. 26 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, bosbaanswim.nl

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 arcam.nl Beurs van Berlage Damrak 243 beursvanberlage.com Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 tassenmuseum.nl Cobra Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen cobra-museum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61A verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 foam.org Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 jhm.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 hermitage.nl Museum Het Schip Oostzaanstraat 45 hetschip.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen jvdtogt.nl National Holocaust Museum Plantage Middenlaan 27 jck.nl De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square nieuwekerk.nl Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23 oudekerk.nl Outsider Art Museum Neerlandiaplein 1 outsiderartmuseum.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl National Maritime Museum Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Special Collections bijzonderecollecties.uva.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 tropenmuseum.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 vangoghmuseum.nl Museum van Loon Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl STAGE AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 boomchicago.nl Comedy Cafe 89, IJdok comedycafe.nl Compagnietheater Kloveniersburgwal 50 compagnietheater.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 crea.uva.nl

DeLaMar Theater Marnixstraat 402 delamar.nl De Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Paleis van de Weemoed Oudezijds Voorburgwal 15 paleis-van-de-weemoed.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 theaterbellevue.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 toomler.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 ziggodome.nl MUSIC AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 bitterzoet.com Cromhouthuis Herengracht 366 cromhouthuis.nl De Duif Prinsengracht 756 deduif.net English Reformed Church Begijnhof 48 ercadam.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 muziekgebouw.nl Oosterkerk Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 1 oosterkerk-amsterdam.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Pianola Museum Westerstraat 106 pianola.nl Q Factory Atlantisplein 1 q-factory-amsterdam.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 carre.nl Schellingwouderkerk Wijkergouw 6 stadsherstel.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 tolhuistuin.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y ziggodome.nl Het Zonnehuis Zonneplein 30 zonnehuis-amsterdam.nl

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PART IV VISITOR INFORMATION

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VISITOR INFORMATION

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM STORE Discover the best of Amsterdam here. Real Amsterdam products and the best tips on everything you want to know about the city. Come and take a look! In the IJ Hall (inside Central Station) Open Mon-Wed 8:00-19:00, Thur-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres) I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 calendar days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in r on every trip each carrie

YM A D 1 A D R E MST

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CLOSING

BEYOND

‘TO KEEP THE BODY IN GOOD HEALTH IS A DUTY... OTHERWISE WE SHALL NOT BE ABLE TO KEEP OUR MIND STRONG AND CLEAR.’

A’DAM

BUDDHA

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

CORPUS EXPERIENCE Even if the rain isn’t spoiling your beach day, Corpus is definitely worth the detour: this man-shaped museum takes you on a fascinating journey through the human body – literally. After meandering through the giant’s innards, learning how the body works (and how to keep it that way!), you can finish the tour with ‘My Corpus’, the interactive part of the exhibit that has fun tests and challenging games. Willem Einthovenstraat 1, Oegstgeest corpusexperience.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, take the train to Leiden Central, then hop on buses 30, 31 or 38 to the ‘Transferium A44’ stop, or buses 37 or 57 to ‘Corpus’. Travel time: about an hour

SEGWAY AT THE ZAAN Exploring the Dutch landscape on a Segway is a fantastic experience, gliding 20cm above the ground, effortlessly and silently through the countryside. For 90 minutes, the guides take you through the history of the area around the Zaan river in small groups (maximum seven people). The Zaan region is characterised by a rich industrial history with charming old buildings, factories, extensive polders and typical Dutch windmills. The departure point for the Segway experience’s three daily tours (at 10:00, 13:00 or 16:00) is the old ‘Klene’ liquorice factory located on the River Zaan. Lagedijk 146-b, Zaandijk segwayaandezaan.com

GETTING THERE: Take a train from Amsterdam Central to station Zaanse Schans, and from there it’s a 10-15 min walk. Travel time: 30 minutes

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

MILLENNIAL GRAVESTONE QUOTES The 19th-century Kunstfort (‘art fort’) bij Vijfhuizen, which is part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, is art, heritage and nature in one. Its artistic programme, started in 2005, is inspired by the genre of science fiction: artists create alternative realities and question existing societal systems. This summer the fort presents an exhibition of Joeri Woudstra’s ‘Millennial Gravestone Quotes’. Woudstra, one of the many talented voices of the millennial generation, explores the influence of technological developments and contemporary advertising culture on feelings of nostalgia – reflecting on our changing perception of time. A public evening is organised on 11 July. Until 17 September Fortwachter 1, Vijfhuizen kunstfort.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, take the train either to Haarlem or to Hoofddorp station, then hop on bus 300 to the ‘Vijfhuizen’ stop. Travel time: 1 hour

‘IF YOU ARE ON SOCIAL MEDIA, AND YOU ARE NOT LEARNING, NOT LAUGHING, NOT BEING INSPIRED OR NOT NETWORKING, THEN YOU ARE USING IT WRONG.‘

‘THE UNIVERSE IS UNDER NO OBLIGATION TO MAKE SENSE TO YOU.‘ NEIL DEGRASSE TYSON

GERMANY KENT

STREETS OF THE WORLD

SPACE EXPO

WONDERFEEL

Space Expo is Europe’s first permanent space exhibition. You can experience what it was like for the first men on the moon and find out all about astronauts and their work outside of our atmosphere. The tours also let you witness the simulated ‘live’ launch of an Ariane rocket, discover the world of satellites with the test models of European space missions, and even explore a real Soyuz space capsule. The Space Train takes you on a guided visit of ESTEC, ESA’s technical facility.

A festival that bears its name well: three days of music in the enchanting 25-hectare estate park of ‘s-Graveland, with six stages of world-class musicians carrying a tune for every taste, from (mostly) classical to jazz, world and pop music. The audience sits on bean bags, benches and picnic blankets, enjoying not only music but also movies, stories and even crafts for children. More than 100 concerts to revel in, knowing every ticket bought represents a donation of �2,50 to the Nature Preservation. Rolling kitchens provide the food not-for-the-soul, with a huge variety of offerings from beer and pizza to champagne and oysters.

Keplerlaan 3, Noordwijk space-expo.nl

21-23 July Estate Schaep and Burgh, ‘s-Graveland wonderfeel.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, take the train to Leiden Central, then hop on bus 30 to the ‘Space Expo’ stop. Travel time: a little over an hour

GETTING THERE: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum or Naarden-Bussum (20 minutes), then catch a ride on bus 105 to Natuurmonumenten. Travel time: approximately 1 hour.

From 2009 to 2016, Dutch photojournalist Jeroen Swolfs visited every country in the world, and photographed their street life. ‘Streets of the World’ is the result of this monumental journey. With 195 street photos taken in as many countries, Swolfs wants to show a positive image of our world, different – and sometimes more real – from the sometimes harsh images the media show us. Swolfs now wants to travel another seven years to share his work, starting in the photo museum in Zaandam. He hopes sharing his experiences can play a role in keeping the peace without becoming political. Day-to-day life – more or less the same anywhere in the world – is the biggest hero of the project. An absolute eye-opener that can bring people together. Until 30 September Museum op het Hembrugterrein, Slaghoedje 52, Zaandam streetsoftheworld.com

GETTING THERE: Take a train from Amsterdam Central to Zaandam, then hop on bus 456 to ‘Hemkade’ or buses 65 or 67 to ‘Peter Ghijsenlaan’. Travel time: 30 minutes.

VISIT HISTORICAL HOLLAND

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THEN AND NOW

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VOLKTUINENPARK HOFWIJCK, 1921 Tracing the city's history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

ALLOTMENT GARDENS IN AMSTERDAM

MARIETJE ZEEGERS BY JAN ZEEGERS CA 1912

Entire generations of Amsterdammers keep charming memories of the little patches of land that they lovingly tended with their parents. Of these private allotments, where families sometimes spent their summers, there are still about 8,000 in and around Amsterdam. In the early 20th century, the gardens were mainly intended for the cultivation of potatoes and vegetables for (and by) the less fortunate residents – which became particularly important during the dire years of the First and Second World Wars. After the wars, the gardens took on a much more recreational function. 2017 marks the 100th anniversary of the organisation that oversees the gardens, the Bond van Volkstuinders, which is still committed today to the preservation of Amsterdam's allotments and their rich, popular history. UNTIL 10 SEPTEMBER Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 amsterdam.nl/stadsarchief Text based on 'Green Fingers in Amsterdam' by Trudy Admiral

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ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

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ANGELINA YANO, 31, MAKE-UP ARTIST, WITH HER GIRLFRIEND – FROM BRAZIL ‘Our favourite neighbourhood is De Pijp. It’s really worth it, between the Albert Cuyp Market and the Sarphatipark, and there’s so many great little shops with trendy fashion.’

JUAN BAKKER, 44, ROAD WORKER FROM NIJMEGEN, NL ‘It’s cliché but for the best nightlife, definitely head to Leidseplein. It’s got good bars and pubs, and a real party atmosphere.’

ANDREA MASO, 27, STUDENT FROM ROME, ITALY ‘I loved the Van Gogh Museum; it’s really magical, to see his works, it makes you feel very privileged and it’s such an outstanding experience to admire their texture in real life rather than flat in a book or on the Internet.’

JESS WHITMORE, 24, RETAIL, AND JACK RICHARDS, 25, FINANCE, FROM LONDON, UK ‘Walk everywhere! It’s amazing, especially in the centre, along the canals and gardens. And you should also take a canal tour, because it’s a great and romantic way to discover the city.’

HADLEY WILLIAMS, 34, SUPPLY CHAIN PLANNER FROM CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA ‘It’s summer, head for the coast! There are so many great beaches and gorgeous natures reserves to explore. Parnassius Beach in Bloemendaal is the best of both worlds.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Het Zomerpaleis: Saskia Franken, Martijn Blokland deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Catalina Iorga, Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Imke Walenberg listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Sarah Gehrke, Alison McGarry & Rhys Elliott), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Anna-Bay/SaltyStock

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