A-mag - Amsterdam Magazine: No.6 by amsterdam&partners

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2013

SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS NOV & DEC 2013

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE DUTCH HOLIDAYS FOR DUMMIES, COURTESY OF AMERICAN HUMORIST DAVID SEDARIS, PLUS THE BEST OF THE FESTIVE SEASON IN AMSTERDAM.

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

N0 6 NOV & DEC 2013

BYE-BYE ZWARTE PIET

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag.

STAY IN TOUCH: iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue, plus Amsterdam’s newest theatre, an unlikely sighting in the city’s canals and a pop-up church

P.10 UP CLOSE The city in focus: Dutch holiday traditions for dummies, courtesy of American essayist David Sedaris, plus plenty of festive fun – from the predictable to the alternative

P.21 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Chambres des Canaux, a new exhibition using the city’s waterways as both inspiration and canvas; and our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood watch: chanelling the village street in the city centre, in Utrechtsebuurt. Plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés, old and new

P.64 CLOSING Amsterdam ABC, your city need-to-know; once upon a time in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out; colophon & sales info

P.47 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues. Plus: get out of town with our excursion tips

The question as to whether Zwarte Piet, the merry companion of Sinterklaas with his blackened face and big gold earrings, is in fact a racist phenomenon, is now officially a global affair: even the United Nations is looking into the matter. On behalf of millions of Dutch people, believe me when I say that it hurts to be accused of racism. My wife is of African-Surinamese origin. We raise our son to believe in Sinterklaas because, like myself, she grew up with the tradition and has never questioned it. That may be hard to understand, but really, there’s nothing to question. Because there’s nothing at all in the relationship between Sinterklaas and his ‘six to eight black men’ that suggests slavery – or even subordination. The head of the Zwarte Pieten (de Hoofdpiet) is way smarter than the absent-minded old boss. The origin of Zwarte Piet is unclear. From what we know Piet was originally the equal of Sinterklaas or perhaps his helper, but certainly not his slave. Of course, it doesn’t help that Piet’s outfit – decades after his invention – has come to resemble that of black household slaves in the 17th century. However, it’s much more likely that the present figures of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet were inspired by a 1845 German antislavery tale. But I know that whatever we say must to the uninitiated sound like the desperate plea of a man standing over a bloody corpse, waving a bloody knife and saying, ‘I didn’t do it – and if I did, it was a mistake.’ I say let’s get rid of Zwarte Piet. A target group who can believe that a 700-year-old man can saunter across rooftops on horseback can surely be persuaded to accept such a change…

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OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

nov & dec 2013

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All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be in 2013 – and beyond.

‘EMAS IN AMSTERDAM – ORANGE CONCERT IN AMSTERDAM – WHERE WE ARE TOUR IN AMSTERDAM.’ THERE’S ONLY ONE DIRECTION FOR BOY-BAND MEMBER NIALL HORAN, AND THAT’S TOWARDS AMSTERDAM.

text Toby Main

HEALTHY SCEPTICISM A Dutch lunchtime staple, the broodje gezond (‘healthy roll’) has come under fire for failing to live up to its virtuous name. The white-bread sandwich, stuffed with a delicious combination of sliced boiled egg, ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato, has been criticised by the Consumentenbond consumer association for its high salt content and overly generous proportions. Devotees are understandably upset. We predict a bun fight.

ANNE Who will be the new Anne? That’s the question on everybody’s lips following the announcement that a theatre will be built especially for a new play about the life of one of Amsterdam’s most famous former residents: Anne Frank. According to producer Robin de Levita, a new theatre was necessary because there was no place in Amsterdam for a so-called ‘open-ended’ piece: a production that plays as long as popularity demands. Author Jessica Durlacher, who co-wrote the play with Leon de Winter, says: ‘With ANNE we retell the story of Anne Frank using a wider perspective. Our script contains the story of the adolescent girl developing into a woman within the unnatural environment of her secret shelter.’ The piece will be premiered in April 2014 and the search for the new Anne is in full swing. www.theateramsterdam.com

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CHANGE OF TUNE Fifty of the city’s like-minded musicians have joined forces to open a performance ‘club house’ for music-lovers near the Waterlooplein. A sort of Soho House but with trumpets instead of people blowing their own trumpets, Spendor has a bar and hosts up to ten events per weekend. From classical to pop, all musical genres are represented, and investors who buy bonds in the place will be repaid via private concerts in their own homes. www.splendoramsterdam.nl

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‘SOME TOURISTS THINK AMSTERDAM IS A CITY OF SIN, BUT IN TRUTH IT IS A CITY OF FREEDOM. AND IN FREEDOM, MOST PEOPLE FIND SIN.’

‘FUN FEEDING THE PIGEONS IN THE DAM SQUARE. MOST PEOPLE DON’T LIKE PIGEONS, BUT I LOVE ALL ANIMALS…’

PARIS HILTON STANDS UP FOR FLYING RODENTS, ON A VISIT TO AMSTERDAM IN SEPTEMBER.

AUTHOR JOHN GREEN SETS THE STAG PARTIES STRAIGHT, IN THE FAULT IN OUR STARS.

COINING IT

MATS SOOLINGEN

SPUNKY BUSINESS

OF BEARDS AND BEANS On the list of hipster obsessions, ‘extravagant beards’ and ‘obscure kinds of coffee’ are right up there with black-rimmed glasses and plaid. So we can only fear for some kind of critical mass explosion on Warmoesstraat in the Red Light District, where the new Cut Throat Barber and Coffee combines the production of perfect flat whites with the maintenance of face furniture in a former police station. Pick up a gift card for the facial fluff fan in your life this holiday season. cutthroatbarbarian@gmail.com

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Giant airborne sperm sculptures in the atrium, armchairs that resemble skulls and a ‘fertility lamp’ that defies description: it’s fair to say there are some racy talking points lurking amid the chic surroundings of the city’s new art’otel, where conceptual art meets the concept of ‘a hotel’. The overriding theme of the place, as conceived by artist-in-residence Joep van Lieshout? ‘The Course of Life’. www.artotels.com

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HOPE FLOATS An environmental initiative is making waves with its desire to build a seaworthy vessel from plastic bottles fi shed from the Amsterdam canals. Plastic Whale is seeking to highlight the problem of plastic pollution in the world’s oceans by unveiling the yet-to-be-built boat in spring at the HISWA Amsterdam Boat Show at the RAI convention centre. Donate and they’ll write your name on the side. www.plasticwhale.com

Being on the game in Amsterdam’s Red Light District has taken on a whole new meaning since the opening of TonTonClub, the new retro games hall that’s settling into the former premises of Sexyland on the Sint Annendwarsstraat, once home to a very different kind of video-related entertainment. The new hangout, a stoner’s throw from the infamous Oudekerksplein, is stuffed with iconic 1980s arcade games (think ‘Mortal Kombat’ and ‘Daytona USA’) of the kind that will inspire nostalgia in a twenty- and thirty-something hipster crowd. Older patrons may enjoy ‘Pussy Shooter’, a wood-fronted, coin-operated curiosity from the 1930s that involves bowling over as many cats as possible with your balls. It seems that, the more things change in De Wallen, the more they stay the same... www.tontonclub.nl

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nov & dec 2013

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘IN AMSTERDAM, THEY FOUND A NEW VAN GOGH. WE’RE STUCK WITH A NEW VIN DIESEL.’

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‘A HEARTFELT THANK YOU TO EVERYONE AT HET RIJK VAN DE KEIZER IN AMSTERDAM FOR SUCH AN AWESOME EVENING.’

AMERICAN COMEDIAN PAULA POUNDSTONE RESPONDS TO THE AUTHENTICATION OF ‘SUNSET AT MONTMAJOUR’.

CONCRETE

IDFA: THE MISSING PICTURE © CONTACT FILM

FIONA TAN, EMPTY HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHS 2010

BRITISH FOOD WRITER NIGEL SLATER HAS A NEW FAVOURITE TABLE IN TOWN.

TARTT WITH AN ART Donna Tartt, bestselling author of The Secret History, is back with a new novel that owes much to her love of Amsterdam. The plot of the long-awaited The Goldfinch centres around a real painting that hangs in The Hague, but Tartt says she drew inspiration from Amsterdam for the book: ‘I love Amsterdam!’ she told Het Parool newspaper, before waxing lyrical on the city’s rich cultural heritage and Van Gogh’s masterpieces. Such is Tartt’s affection for Holland that the Dutch edition of The Goldfinch (Het Puttertje) appeared a full month before the English version.

to do

TOP 5

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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

2 STAY IN TO EAT OUT Check out one of the city’s blossoming store of livingroom restaurants, for the ultimate at-home Amsterdam culinary experience. various locations

1 GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG Wagner’s mighty Ring cycle comes to a rousing close at the Muziektheater, with the revival of a performance with plenty of sets appeal. 14-30 November Muziektheater Amstel 3 www.dno.nl

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3 IDFA It’s the biggest documentary film festival in the world, and it takes over Amsterdam’s cinemas for ten days this November: International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam is not to be missed. 20 November-1 December various locations www.idfa.nl

4 AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

Everything is illuminated as the city centre’s historical waterways are put firmly in the spotlight for this flambouyant festival of light. 6 December-19 January waterways in the centre & River Amstel www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

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5 CHAMBRES DES CANAUX: THE TOLERANT HOME

Twenty iconic Amsterdam canal-side properties exhibit the very best of the international art scene, with works by Marlene Dumas, Fiona Tan and many more. 1-17 November various locations www.iamsterdam.com

‘IT WASN’T THE WI-FI, IT DEFINITELY WASN’T THE WI-FI.’

GEERT VAN DER WIJK

MILEY CYRUS ON HER REASONS FOR SPENDING SEVEN HOURS IN ONE OF AMSTERDAM’S CELEBRATED COFFEESHOPS.

FORGING AHEAD

LET US SPRAY Amsterdam-born fashion photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who’ve snapped the likes of Björk and directed Lady Gaga’s ‘Applause’ video, have launched a unisex perfume with the house of Byredo. ‘1996 Inez & Vinoodh’ has already won the approval of Victoria Beckham, who proclaimed the scent ‘so chic’ on Twitter. In fashion smell terms, this is the equivalent of being anointed by the Pope. Get your hands on it at Skins Cosmetics (pictured, at Hôtel Droog). www.skins.nl

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STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE From the author of the eponymous blog, this laugh-outloud book is a study of all things orange and a celebration of the Lowlands and its peculiar inhabitants. Colleen Geske’s Stuff Dutch People Like investigates and highlights the idiosyncrasies of the Dutch and their uncanny ability to talk on a mobile phone while carrying 2.5 children, six bags of groceries and a mattress balanced on a gearless bicycle… www.stuffdutchpeoplelike.com

AISLE BE THERE You’ve dined at the pop-up restaurants of Oost and perused the pop-up shops of the Centre. Now Amsterdam’s OudWest district is raising the bar (right to the heavens) with the city’s fi rst ‘pop-up church’. The Sunday morning gatherings – which, according to organiser Rikko Voorberg, seek to explore ‘the no-man’s land between art and the Church’ – are centred around a bring-your-own brunch. www.popupkerk.nl

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If a standard ‘Sunflowers’ poster won’t suffice but you’ve forgotten to pack the €30m that constitutes the going rate for a Van Gogh original (careless!) then fret not. The Van Gogh Museum claims to have developed an advanced 3D scanning technique that allows the reproduction of some of its most celebrated masterpieces. Axel Rüger, the museum’s director, spoke to the Guardian newspaper about the process, which is known as Reliefology and has taken more than seven years to develop: ‘It really is the next generation of reproductions because they go into the third dimension. If you’re a layman, they are pretty indistinguishable.’ Be that as it may, the asking price – approximately €26,000 per life-sized reproduction – is quite expensive for some fake flowers. www.vangoghmuseum.nl

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PART I UP CLOSE

festive fun

FESTIVE FUN

Have the jolliest of holidays with our guide to the best of the festive season in Amsterdam. AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL In this second edition, the Light Festival takes advantage of Amsterdam’s early winter sunsets in the most exquisite way. Two routes take visitors around a brilliant array of creations by international light artists: the Illuminade as a stroll through the historical city centre and Water Colors to be toured by boat along the Amstel. This year’s exhibit presents 30 works of arts on the theme of ‘Building With Light’, from projections on the facades of monuments to illuminated interactive installations. 6 December-19 January various locations www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

American humorist and folk hero David Sedaris gives his take on the baffling details of Dutch holiday traditions.

OVO, KOERT VERMEULEN © JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

essay David Sedaris highlights Marie-Charlotte Pezé

SIX TO EIGHT BLACK MEN

’ve never been much for guidebooks, so when trying to get my bearings in some strange American city, I normally start by asking the cabdriver or hotel clerk some silly question regarding the latest census figures. I say silly because I don’t really care how many people live in Olympia, Washington or Columbus, Ohio. They’re nice enough places, but the numbers mean nothing to me. My second question might have to do with the average annual rainfall, which, again, doesn’t tell me anything about the people who have chosen to call this place home. What really interests me are the local gun laws. Can I carry a concealed weapon and, if so, under what circumstances? What’s the waiting period for a tommy gun? Could I buy a Glock 17 if I were recently divorced or fired from my job? I’ve learned from experience that its best to lead into this subject as delicately as possible, especially if you and the local citizen are alone and enclosed in a relatively small area. Bide your time, though, and you can walk away with some excellent stories. I’ve learned, for example, that the blind can legally hunt in both Texas and Michigan. In Texas they must be accompanied by a sighted companion, but I heard that in Michigan they’re allowed to go it alone, which raises the question: How do they find whatever it is they just shot? In addition to that, how do they get it home? Are the Michigan blind allowed to drive as well? I ask about guns not because I want one of my own but because the answers vary so widely from state to state. In a country

that’s become increasingly homogeneous, I’m reassured by these last charming touches or regionalism. Firearms aren’t really an issue in Europe, so when travelling abroad, my first question usually relates to barnyard animals. “What do your roosters say?” is a good icebreaker, as every country has its own unique interpretation. In Germany, where dogs bark “vow vow” and both the frog and the duck say “quack,” the roosters crow “kiri-a-kee,” and in France they scream “coco-rico,” which sounds like one of those horrible premixed cocktails with a pirate on the label. When told that an American rooster says, “cock-adoodle-doo,” my hosts look at me with disbelief and pity. “When do you open your Christmas presents?” is another good conversation starter, as I think it explains a lot about national character. People who traditionally open gifts on Christmas Eve seem a bit more pious and family-oriented than those who wait until Christmas morning. They go to Mass, open presents, eat a late meal, return to church the following morning, and devote the rest of the day to eating another big meal. Gifts are generally reserved for children, and the parents tend not to go overboard. It’s nothing I’d want for myself, but I suppose it’s fine for those who prefer food and family to things of real value. In France and Germany gifts are exchanged on Christmas Eve, while in the Netherlands the children open their presents on December 5, in celebration of St. Nicholas

PART I UP CLOSE

Day. It sounded soft of quaint until I spoke to a man named Oscar, who filled me in on a few of the details as we walked from my hotel to the Amsterdam train station. Unlike the jolly, obese American Santa, Saint Nicholas is painfully thin and dresses not unlike the pope, topping his robes with a tall hat resembling an embroidered tea cozy. The outfit, I was told, is a carryover from his former career, when he served as the bishop of Turkey. “I’m sorry,” I said, “but could you repeat that?” One doesn’t want to be too much of a cultural chauvinist, but this seemed completely wrong to me. For starters, Santa didn’t used to do anything. He’s not retired and, more important, he has nothing to do with Turkey. It’s too dangerous there and the people wouldn’t appreciate him. When asked how he got from Turkey to the North Pole, Oscar told me with complete conviction that Saint Nicholas currently resides in Spain, which again is simply not true. Though he could probably live wherever he wanted, Santa chose the North Pole specifically because it is harsh and isolated. No one can spy on him, and he doesn’t have to worry about people coming to the door. Anyone can come to the door in Spain, and in that outfit he’d most certainly be recognized. On top of that, aside from a few pleasantries, Santa doesn’t speak Spanish. “Hello. How are you? Can I get you some candy?” Fine. He knows enough to get by, but he’s not fluent and he certainly doesn’t eat tapas. While our Santa flies on a sled, the Dutch version arrives by boat and then transfers to a white horse. The event is televised, and great crowds gather at the waterfront to greet him. I’m not sure if there’s a set date, but he generally docks in late November and spends a few weeks hanging out asking people what they want. “Is it just him alone?” I asked. “Or does he

festive fun

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slaves who could potentially go off at any moment. This, I think, is the greatest difference between us and the Dutch. While a certain segment of our population might be perfectly happy with the arrangement, if you told the average white American that six to eight nameless black men would be sneaking into his house in the middle of the night, he would barricade the doors and arm himself with whatever he could get his hands on. “Six to eight, did you say?” In the years before central heating, Dutch children would leave their shoes by the fireplace, the promise being that unless they planned to beat you, kick you, or stuff you into a sack, Saint Nicholas and the six to eight black men would fill your clogs with presents. Aside from the threats of violence and kidnapping, it’s not much different than hanging your stockings from the mantel. Now that so few people actually have a working fireplace, Dutch children are instructed to leave their shoes beside the radiator, furnace, or space heater. Saint Nicholas and the six to eight black men arrive on horses, which jump from the yard onto the roof. At this point I guess they either jump back down and use the door or stay put and vaporize through pipes and electrical cords. Oscar wasn’t too clear about the particulars, but really, who can blame him? We have the same problem with our Santa. He’s supposed to use the chimney, but if you don’t have one, he still manages to get in. It’s not best to think about it too hard. While eight flying reindeer are a hard pill to swallow, our Christmas story remains relatively dull. Santa lives with his wife in a remote polar village and spends one night a year travelling around the world. If you’re bad, he leaves you coal. If you’re good and live in America, he’ll give you just about anything you want. We tell our children to be good and send them off to bed, where they lie awake, anticipating their great bounty. A Dutch parent has a decidedly hairier story to relate, telling his children, “Listen, you might want to pack a few of your things together before going to bed. The former bishop of Turkey will be coming tonight along with six to eight black men. They might stuff you into a sack and take you to Spain, or they might just pretend to kick you. We don’t know for sure, but we want you to be prepared.”

ALLARD VAN DER HOEK

come with some backup?” Oscar’s English was close to perfect, but he seemed thrown by a term normally reserved for police reinforcement. “Helpers,” I said. “Does he have any elves?” Maybe I’m overly sensitive, but I couldn’t help but feel personally insulted when Oscar denounced the very idea as grotesque and unrealistic. “Elves,” he said. “They are just so silly.” The words silly and unrealistic were redefined when I learned that Saint Nicholas travels with what was consistently described as “six to eight black men.” I asked several Dutch people to narrow it down, but none of them could give me an exact number. It was always “six to eight,” which seems strange, seeing as they’ve had hundreds of years to get an accurate head count. The six to eight black men were characterized as personal slaves until the mid-1950s, when the political climate changed and it was decided that instead of being slaves they were just good friends. I think that history has proved that something usually comes between slavery and friendship, a period of time marked not by cookies and quiet hours beside the fire but by bloodshed and mutual hostility. They have such violence in the Netherlands, but rather than duking it out amongst themselves, Santa and his former slaves decided to take it out on the public. In the early years if a child was naughty, Saint Nicholas and the six to eight black men would beat him with what Oscar described as “the small branch of a tree.” “A switch?” “Yes,” he said, “That’s it. They’d kick him and beat him with a switch. Then if the youngster was really bad, they’d put him in a sack and take him back to Spain.” “Saint Nicholas would kick you?” “Well, not anymore,” Oscar said. “Now he just pretends to kick you.” He considered this to be progressive, but in a way I think it’s almost more perverse that the original punishment. “I’m going to hurt you but not really.” How many times have we fallen for that line? The fake slap invariably makes contact, adding the elements of shock and betrayal to what had previously been plain old-fashioned fear. What kind of a Santa spends his time pretending to kick people before stuffing them into a canvas sack? Then, of course, you’ve got the six to eight former

TANGOMAGIA It’s cold out there – the perfect excuse to get indecently close to good-looking strangers. Tangomagia, Amsterdam’s illustrious five-day tango festival, returns for its 16th edition, bining a little Argentinian warmth to the city. Taking place in several cosy locations around the city – from Dansmakers aan’t IJ  to the Muziekgebouw  – they’re linked together by the TangoMagical Mystery Tour. With performances, workshops, and milongas around the clock, things are going to get steamy. 26-30 December various locations www.tangomagia.com

‘THINK HOLIDAY ON ICE, BUT WITH A LOT MORE SEQUINS, WIGS AND MAKE-UP, A LOT MORE RIOTOUS FUN… AND A BIT LESS GRACE AND DIGNITY.’ Winter Drag Olympics

festive fun

PART I UP CLOSE

‘Unlike the jolly, obese American Santa, Saint Nicholas is painfully thin.’

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THE SLEEPING BEAUTY This is the reward for living in the Netherlands. As a child you get to hear this story, and as an adult you get to turn around and repeat it. As an added bonus, the government has thrown in legalized drugs and prostitution – so what’s to love about being Dutch? Oscar finished his story just as we arrived at the station. He was a polite and interesting guy – very good company – but when he offered to wait until my train arrived I begged off, claiming I had some calls to make. Sitting alone in the vast, vibrant terminal, surrounded by thousands of polite, seemingly interesting Dutch people, I couldn’t help but feel second-rate. Yes, the Netherlands was a small country, but it had six to eight black men and a really good bedtime story. Being a fairly competitive person, I felt jealous, then bitter. I was edging toward hostile when I remembered the blind hunter tramping off alone into the Michigan forest. He may bag a deer, or he may happily shoot a camper in the stomach. He may find his way back to the car, or he may wander around for a week or two before stumbling through your back door. We don’t know for sure, but in pinning that license to his chest, he inspires the sort of narrative that ultimately makes me proud to be an American.

12 December-1 January Muziektheater Waterlooplein 22 www.het-muziektheater.nl

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ERWIN OLAF

This fairy-tale ballet by choreographer Marius Petipa and composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky (of Swan Lake and The Nutcracker) is one of the greatest treasures ever produced by the Russian Imperial Ballet. Almost 125 years after its premiere, it’s still regarded as the most demanding and brilliant example of the pure classical ballet style. For the festive season, The Dutch National Ballet ‘reawakens’ the universally acclaimed version by Englishman Sir Peter Wright.

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS A long-standing tradition in Amsterdam, Carré’s World Christmas Circus is a jaw-dropping blast for the entire family. With two, sometimes three daily shows between mid-December and early January, Carré presents a wide selection of renowned, international acts of spectacular entertainment that includes acrobatics, magic, trapezists and animal wranglers – and of course the usual clownery. 19 December-5 January Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115-125 http://web.carre.nl

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PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE WINTER CONCERTS Every winter, the Portuguese Synagogue of the Jewish Historical Museum organises a marvellous series of musical events lit by candlelight. This year’s programme includes an evening of Dick Kattenburg’s piano and flute compositions, a fabulous Flamenco evening and a chamber music string trio. For Hannukah’s special candlelight concert on 30 November, the Amsterdam Sinfonietta will play Transfigured Night, a string sextet by Arnold Schoenberg, and Five Pieces for String Quartet by Ervin Schulhoff. Portuguese Synagogue Mr Visserplein 3 www.portugesesynagoge.nl

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‘RED TREES’ 140 X 190, CAROLIEN WISSING, ATELIER ZAMENHOFSTRAAT

PINK CHRISTMAS Leave it to the LGBT community to make Christmas even more fabulous. Pink Christmas is a week-long marathon of festivities, ripe with events that range from the classy to the completely outrageous, from Christmas bingo to a gay church service on Christmas Day. The highlight is the legendary Winter Drag Olympics, hosted by Miss Windy Mills at the Leidseplein ice rink ()on 20 December. Think Holiday on Ice, but with a lot more sequins, wigs and make-up, a lot more riotous fun, a lot more cheers from the crowd… and a bit less grace and dignity. 19-31 December various locations www.pinkchristmas.nl

ICE*AMSTERDAM Don’t wait for an icy winter before whipping out the skates; if the canals only rarely freeze over, Amsterdam’s ice rinks open every year for the entire holiday season. The Museumplein rink is a lovely spot to rent a pair of skates, with the magjestic Rijksmuseum in the background. This year, it will have a spectacular new design, complete with a replica of the city’s most famous drawbridge, the ‘Skinny Bridge’. Even if you don’t skate, the Brasserie Winter – with outdoor terrace and bar – is a great spot for coffee and warm apple strudel. 29 November-February 2014 Museumplein www.iceamsterdam.com

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PART I

festive fun

UP CLOSE

FOR THE FESTIVE SEASON, THE DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET ‘REAWAKENS’ SIR PETER WRIGHT’S SLEEPING BUEATY.

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WINTER PARADE Much like a wintry Viking feast, the Winterparade takes over RAI from 20 to 26 December with an 120-metre-long banquet-style table covered with vats of mulled wine, an orgiac abundance of food – and especially a parade of dance, theatre and poetry performances. Some of the acts are in Dutch, but most of the show is about mime, acrobatics and singing, and this year’s edition includes famous dancer and choreographer Conny Janssen, so the festive mood will surely overcome any language barriers. 20-26 December Europaplein www.tafelvandeidee.nl

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ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS A more severe but just as adored ‘version’ of Santa Claus, Sinterklaas sails into town (from Spain, where he lives) in mid-November amidst much fanfare: he even has his own TV show, which records his struggles against the weather – much to the horror of small children who are tortured with the idea that he may have to turn back. His steamboat follows the Amstel before mooring in fanfare at the Maritime Museum, where the daylong parade through the city starts at 12.30. Enthralled by the sing-alongs, the throngs of delighted children remain blissfully ignorant of the controversy surrounding Sinterklaas’s helpers who shower the crowds with gingerbread cookies and glee… 17 November National Maritime Museum Kattenburgerplein 1 www.sintinamsterdam.nl

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PARADISO CHRISTMAS MATINEE At Paradiso’s Christmas Matinee, holiday cheer abounds. The iconic club offers the perfect post-feast roster: a classical music concert by the house Orchestra – including sopranao Nora Fischer (pictured) – carols and singalongs, and many other performances including a Christmas story-telling. All doused in traditional mulled wine. 26 December Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl

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PART I

seeing stars

UP CLOSE

Seeing stars

craziest celeb demands

The 2013 MTV EMA see a galaxy of stars shining bright in Amsterdam. But what will they do here? What should we expect? text Roos Schlikker translation Maxine Knoote

LADY GAGA It’s no surprise that the ultimate pop diva makes the ultimate dressing-room demands. La Gaga’s rider runs to no less than 35 pages and includes dried apples, dried mango, a smoothie station with frozen fruits, weightcontrol oatmeal, grilled chicken with rice, and so on. Hotel employees must all wear the same uniform – and T-shirts are strictly forbidden.

KATY PERRY

f you’re in Amsterdam during the second week of November – when 2013 MTV EMA takes place – don’t be surprised to see Eminem riding a beer bike, Justin Timberlake at the Rijksmuseum or Bruno Mars at a herring stand. Since quite a few of the nominated stars will perform live at the 2013 MTV EMA, it’s not unlikely that they’ll take the opportunity to see a little more of the city than just the Ziggo Dome… Amsterdam has always been an attractive city for celebs because of its open-minded character and free spirit. Some of them come for the obvious, stereotypical reasons: former Disney princess-turned-twerker extraordinaire Miley Cyrus spent no less than seven hours in a coffeeshop when she visited last summer – and ‘it wasn’t the free Wi-Fi’ she assured funnyman Alan Carr during an interview. Others do seem to be interested in absorbing some culture. Take Justin Bieber, for instance. He stayed in the Anne Frank House for one whole hour, then wrote in the guestbook: ‘Truly inspiring to be able to come here. Anne was a great girl. Hopefully she would have been a Belieber.’ Make of that what you will. Now we know what they like to do here, but where do they stay? Well, it used to be the super-posh Amstel Hotel, but

the trendier, less stuffy alternative is the Conservatorium. After Pearl Jam, Lady Gaga and Alanis Morissette stayed there, Madonna even cancelled her reservation at the Amstel to sleep at the coolest place in town. The hotels certainly know how to cash in on their superstar guests: the Amstel Hotel’s Royal suite costs €3,750 a night, and the Penthouse Suite at the Conservatorium will cost you €1,250 per night more. Those who presume that spoiled attitudes are confined to the younger generation of celebs should note that Barbra Streisand’s dog once got a strip of artificial grass laid on a hotel balcony especially for him. When Rolling Stones Mick Jagger and Keith Richards stayed in an unspecified Amsterdam hotel, they were surprised to see that the minibar turned out to be just that, with only three tiny bottles. To avoid these unwanted surprises, most celebrities have a kind of handbook, called a dressing-room rider, which clearly states all their wishes and demands. They can be pedantically precise: Van Halen famously insist upon bowls full of M&Ms with all the brown ones removed, for example. Jennifer Lopez, meanwhile, allegedly demands a personal backstage ‘nipple tweaker’…

Katy asks for fresh flowers – which seems quite reason-able, but few things in life are that easy. Some of the blooms must be her favourite bubble-gum hue; she prefers roses and peonies, and if those are not available orchids will do. Anyone presenting her with carnations, however, can expect a repeat of the Madonna hydrangea incident (google it). For her drivers she has a list of 23 rules – including that the long-suffering chauffeur is not allowed to start a conversation or stare at her in the rear-view mirror.

JUSTIN BIEBER This teeny teen idol likes to stay clean during his performances, and asks for four packs of plain white T-shirts plus four packs of low-rise trainer socks. He also demands potato chips, herbal teas, mixed nuts, fruit platters and his favourite candy.

ROBIN THICKE Having Miley Cyrus twerk in your face is apparently thirsty work. Robin ‘Blurred Lines’ Thicke demands a staggering assortment of liquors in his dressing room, including a large bottle of Jack Daniels, two cases of Corona, a bottle of Chardonnay and a case of beer. You’d think he’d be too sloshed to stand up after that lot – let alone perform onstage. Luckily, he also wants 24 bottles of water and a fresh pot of tea with lemon and honey to give his liver a break.

See page 24 for your chance to win tickets to the 2013 MTV EMA!

ADVERTORIAL

I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD

nov & dec 2013

In 2013, Amsterdam celebrates the city’s iconic institutions in style. See them all – for free or with a discount – with the I amsterdam City Card.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM 

RIJKSMUSEUM OPEN 

It’s your last chance to catch this stellar exhibition (closing 12 January). More than 200 paintings, works on paper, sketchbooks and letters by Van Gogh and his peers offer new insights into the fascinating creative processes behind some of the artist’s most famous paintings and drawings. Going well beyond the traditional permanent collection and suitably marking the museum’s 40th year on Museumplein, fans won’t be disappointed.

After a decade of unprecedented renovation, Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, home to a host of Rembrandts and Vermeers, finally showed off its new (and old) look in April 2013. Inspired by venerable French museums like the Louvre, the Rijksmuseum (meaning: ‘state museum’) had been founded in The Hague in 1800 to house treasures from the Golden Age, and was moved to Amsterdam at the behest of King Louis Bonaparte in 1808. It eventually moved

VAN GOGH AT WORK

FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

A GOLDEN AGE TREASURE TROVE

into the grand PJH Cuypers-designed Museumplein building. With an entirely refreshed layout, fully renovated building, new public facilities, newly landscaped garden and Rembrandt’s iconic ‘The Night Watch’ returning to its original gallery, 80 halls now display 8,000 pieces of art and history – more than even the most fervent museum visitor can digest in one day. Get a €2.50 DISCOUNT on presentation of the special voucher you receive with the I amsterdam City Card

IVAR PEL

FAMILY FUN WITH YOUR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD:

SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM JUNIOR 

The National Maritime Museum offers a variety of exhibitions just for kids. Sal & Lori and the Circus at Sea is an underwater fairytale for the youngest visitors, while older children will enjoy The Tale of the Whale or the multimedia See You in the Golden Age. FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR 

In an area of 300 square metres, four young Dutch eyewitnesses – Jan, Nelly, Eva and Henk – tell kids their personal wartime stories, using interactive exhibits, film clips and original historical objects to really bring history to life. FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR 

Focused on non-Western cultures, the interactive exhibits here introduce children to new cultures in a playful way that sparks their curiosity. In 2012, the Tropenmuseum Junior was recognised as one of the best children’s museums in the world. FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

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A visit to some of Amsterdam’s world-class museums is fun for all the family.

K AZIMIR MALEVICH, GALANT GEZELSCHAP IN EEN PARK, 1908. COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM

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KAZIMIR MALEVICH AND THE RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE 

MONDRIAN IN AMSTERDAM 1892-1912 

A major survey exhibition of work by Russian artist Kazimir Malevich, one of the founding fathers of abstract art. Best known for his pure abstract work, Malevich drew inspiration from a wide range of artistic trends. The exhibition uses oil paintings, watercolours, drawings and sculptures to illustrate the rich variety of styles and disciplines in his oeuvre – from impressionism to cubism.

Piet Mondrian, one of the earliest members of the Dutch ‘De Stijl’ movement, returns home to Amsterdam. Featuring more than 60 works, this exhibition showcases some of the Dutch artist’s lesser-known paintings, prints and drawings, produced during his time in Amsterdam between 1892 and 1912. Landscapes and lighthouses show the inspiration he drew from his surroundings.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

A lot of Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

FREE entrance with the I amsterdam City Card

EXPLORE EVERYTHING AMSTERDAM HAS TO OFFER WITH THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD. Visit world-class museums, take a cruise through the charming canals and sample the local delicacies – all for free or with a significant discount. • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport • Free canal cruise • 25 per cent discount on attractions • 25 per cent discount on food & drink …and more

Discover Amsterdam at a discount. See right for details.

I amsterdam City Card for 24 hours – €42 I amsterdam City Card for 48 hours – €52 I amsterdam City Card for 72 hours – €62

The I amsterdam City Card is available at Visitor Information Centres, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see www.iamsterdam.com/citycard

Experience the best acoustics in the world

nov & dec 2013 22 24 30 31

ENTERTAINMENT

‘THIS RING IS SPECIAL BECAUSE THE AUDIENCE IS A PART OF IT – THE WHOLE AUDIENCE IS INVOLVED.’ Conductor Hartmut Haenchen on his production of Götterdämmerung.

‘REBEL CHILDREN, I URGE YOU, FIGHT THE TURGID SLICK OF CONFORMITY WITH WHICH THEY SEEK TO SMOTHER YOUR GLORY.’ Check out what comedian Russell Brand is talking about, at MTV Music Week.

CHAMBRES DES CANAUX: THE TOLERANT HOME HIGHLIGHTS FILM CLUBBING ESSENTIALS

GOLDEN YEARS: ROB HORNSTRA’S RUSSIA Documenting the area near the Black Sea in Russia where the Winter Olympics will be held in 2014, photographer Rob Hornstra (along with filmmaker Arnold van Bruggen) shows how the area is changing in the run-up to the Games. A turbulent region with an unruly history and many colourful elements, Hornstra’s series offers a fascinating glimpse into a fast-disappearing way of life. 14 DECEMBER-2 MARCH HUIS MARSEILLE Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl

ELFREM EN SVETA, TSJELJABINSK, RUSLAND, 2003 © ROB HORNSTRA / FLATLAND GALLERY

PART II

chambres des canaux

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Chambres des Canaux: The Tolerant Home Shining a light on both the city’s historic canals and its reputation for tolerance, a new exhibition presents the best of the international art scene in 20 iconic waterside locations.

n the year Amsterdam’s canals turn 400, a new exhibition gives the public an original way to experience them: from inside the grandiose patrician canal houses that line those waterways. The 20 locations – which include the official residence of the mayor as well as canal-house museums and the rooftop of a houseboat – serve as both inspiration and gallery space for 35 internationally respected artists, including Fiona Tan and Marlene Dumas. All of

the featured artists have an intimate, personal connection with Amsterdam. Many studied at the city’s worldclass art institutes De Ateliers and the Rijksakademie; some have made the city their home. A LEGACY OF TOLERANCE ‘What other place could you choose in all the world… where you can enjoy such perfect liberty?’ So asked philosopher René Descartes of Amsterdam in 1631. It is this legacy of tolerance – second only, perhaps, to the

FIONA TAN, EMPTY HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHS, 2010. COURTESY THE ARTIST & FRITH STREET GALLERY, LONDON

JANNES LINDERS

text Megan Roberts

iconic canals as an Amsterdam cliché – that Chambres des Canaux: The Tolerant Home explores. As curator Siebe Tettero explains: ‘The background is the cultural tolerance of the Golden Age, the age when the canals were built. At that time there was an interesting mix of “foreigners” in the city, who also got plenty of space to develop. Someone like Rembrandt could push the limits of what was tolerable in the arts in Amsterdam. This exhibition is about the continuation of this thinking.’

join the 2013 party WEST SIDE STORY

West Side Story

Turn on the Lights

Black & White

The culmination of a special Summer Academy project that has enabled up-and-coming amateurs aged 16-25 to work with the best veterans in show business, from voice coaches to choreographers and costume designers, these two youth performances of Leonard Bernstein’s classic musical could well be a springboard for the musical stars of tomorrow… or at least ‘Tonight’. And where better to stage one’s breakthrough than at the stately Royal Concertgebouw, one of the finest concert halls in the world celebrating its 125th birthday in 2013. 3 & 4 December Royal Concertgebouw www.concertgebouw.nl

The individual works on display were primarily drawn from the existing oeuvre of each artist, reflecting intrinsic attitudes to tolerance in the Netherlands. They each display a preoccupation with the theme in different ways – some obliquely; others more explicitly. In ‘Monument of Sugar’, Lonnie van Brummelen and Siebren de Haan use dubious sugar subsidy regulations to question the relationship between Nigeria and the European Union; Gert Jan Kocken’s acclaimed photo-

RUBEDO © VIVIANE SASSEN, SERIES FLAMBOYA, 2007

AMIE DICKE , THE RING AND THE FINGER, 2012, PRIVATE COLLECTION, AMSTERDAM

JOHN LEWIS MARSHALL

TURN ON THE LIGHTS

montage ‘Depictions of Amsterdam 1940-1945’ includes images of former city officials overseeing the registered deportation of Amsterdam Jews. In the privately owned property at Keizersgracht 584, you’ll find work by Marlene Dumas which has never before been on public display and which sees the artist examining the precarious position of Amsterdam’s Red Light District. Tolerance, it seems, has its limits – even in freewheeling Amsterdam. But exhibtions such as Chambres des

Canaux: The Tolerant Home show that hope remains that the legacy of tolerand can – and will – thrive again. 1-17 November, various locations www.iamsterdam.com/chambres

The city centre is put firmly in the spotlight when Amsterdam’s luxury department store, de Bijenkorf, kicks off the festive season. Some 300,000 energyefficient LED lights will illuminate the facade of the majestic de Bijenkorf building on Dam square. The event kicks off at seven with a performance by the always spectacular street theatre troupe Plasticiens Volants, featuring huge inflatable figures. The event is free – but bring your wallet anyway, because you have until ten to make a start on your Christmas shopping in de Bijenkorf, where there’ll be live music too. 21 November, de Bijenkorf www.debijenkorf.nl

BLACK & WHITE 1 July 1863 marked the abolition of slavery in the former Dutch colonies of Suriname and the Netherlands Antilles. But what were the lasting effects of slavery on the Dutch community? More than 150 years later, the Tropenmuseum uses personal stories, photographs, films and artworks to explore concepts of race and how ‘black’ and ‘white’ people have lived with each other in the Netherlands ever since, with featured works by Jan Sluijters, Nola Hatterman, Ed van der Elsken, Nardo Brudet (whose ‘Happy Room’ is pictured) and others. The exhibition also reveals a monument to freedom, carrying 11,000 names of freed slaves. until 1 July, Tropenmusuem www.tropenmuseum.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

I’m with the brand...

Brace yourselves. Amsterdam is about to go pop, as the Ziggo Dome hosts the 2013 MTV EMA – plus a packed programme of performances during MTV Music Week. text Toby Main illustration Carolyn Ridsdale

agle-eyed couch potatoes will have spotted that MTV, the iconic youthorientated television channel that started life in the 1980s as ‘Music Television’, doesn’t show so many music videos in the age of Vimeo and Vevo. Since the kids started playing their music on demand, MTV has broadened its focus, screening deliciously addictive reality TV shows like Geordie Shore and The Valleys, with their high jinks, perma-tans and hair extensions. But fear not, reality has not yet killed the video star: the MTV brand continues to trade on its considerable pop-cultural heritage by hosting massive music awards ceremonies that highlight the year’s hottest recording artists. The American mother ship edition of this phenomenon, the MTV VMA (Video Music Awards) has brought us such sentimental memories as Britney snogging Madonna in 2003 and, ten years later, a scantily dressed Miley Cyrus ‘twerking’ with giant teddy bears before grinding up against Robin Thicke, who appeared to have been styled as the world’s douchiest sneaker store manager. The European equivalent, the MTV EMA (Europe Music Awards), moves around our fair continent like a crazy juggernaut of pop, R&B and dance music. This year, it’s Amsterdam’s turn to host – awesome news for the Canal Belt celeb-spotting opportunities alone – and, on the night of 10 November, the newly built Ziggo Dome will be the undisputed epicentre of Planet Pop. The show will be available via MTV’s global network of more than 60 channels, starting at 20.00 with the red carpet, and is set to reach more than 700 million households around the WIN TICKETS TO THE 2013 MTV EMA! We’re offering ten lucky winners and a friend the chance to find out in person who’ll take home the most prestigious music awards, experience unforgettable performances, get inspired by the redcarpet fashion and be the first to find out about the shocking scandals. Competition closes 5 November. To stand a chance of winning, email mtv@iamsterdam.com and mention A-mag or see www.iamsterdam.com/mtv Good luck!

don’t miss these

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world. Young American star-in-the-making Ariana Grande will dish the behind-the-scenes dirt, using the Twitter handle @MTVEMA. Ker-azy American DJ and dance artist Redfoo will preside over a ceremony that features categories ranging from ‘Best Dutch Act’ (nominees include Afrojack and Armin van Buuren) to ‘Best Look’ (will it be Rihanna or Harry Styles, we wonder?) – and confirmed performers includes Brit rock sensations The Killers, ’90s Euro-dance stars 2 Unlimited and the pop-licious Ms Katy Perry. With Will Ferrell presenting in character as mustachioed newsman Ron Burgundy and Miley herself bringing the notoriety, it’s guaranteed to be a spectacular show. MUSIC FOR THE PEOPLE If you’re not lucky enough to get your hands on a ticket – which are available to fans for the first time this year – fear not: for four days building up to the 2013 MTV EMA, venues across town will stage special performances presented by MTV. Catch an intimate acoustic evening with homegrown talents The Opposites, Nielson and Kensington – the latter two of whom are also nominated for the Best Dutch Act award. Check out British post-punks White Lies or Danish electro pioneer Trentemøller. We defy you not to be enthralled-slash-horrified-slashconfused by the comedy of Russell Brand, with his eloquent rock star-cum-chimneysweep stylings. He’s unleashing his ‘Messiah Complex’, so expect plenty of self-referential musings – and the odd pop at ex-wife Ms Perry, of course... 2013 MTV EMA: 10 NOVEMBER Ziggo Dome tv.mtvema.com

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MTV MUSIC WEEK: 6-9 NOVEMBER various locations http://mtvmusicweek.nl

Last year’s blockbuster at the Hermitage Amsterdam contemplated the arrival on the scene of the impressionists. This new exhibition considers the artists who thrived in their wake, in particular Paul Gaugin and the ‘Nabi’ painters, who would use photography to experiment with composition. Unlike the impressionists, whose objective was to capture the fleeting qualities of natural light, this lot emphasised colour, feeling, symbolism and imagination. They found a champion in wealthy young Muscovite Ivan Morozov, whose collection is showcased here with suitably illusionistic flourishes.

ODILON REDON, WOMAN ASLEEP BENEATH A TREE, 1900-1901 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

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GAUGIN, BONNARD, DENIS. A RUSSIAN TASTE FOR FRENCH ART

UNTIL 28 FEBRUARY HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM www.hermitage.nl

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LONDON CALLING What do Bloc Party, Franz Ferdinand and Florence & The Machine have in common? Answer: they all made their Dutch debut at London Calling. A twice-yearly, two-day showcase festival for new bands, with a particular focus on talent from the UK and the USA, London Calling grants hotly-tipped youngsters the chance to walk the same hallowed stages as their scissor-kicking forbears, and allows gig-goers to enjoy a freewheeling festival atmosphere without the inevitable meteorological hazards. Cram your playlists in advance with the fast-paced rock of Dublin two-piece Kid Karate (pictured).

1 & 2 NOVEMBER PARADISO www.londoncalling.nl

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ELIZE The oldest surviving equestrian school in the Netherlands, with its spectacularly ornate indoor riding arena designed by famed 19th-century architect AL van Gendt, the Hollandsche Manege becomes the thrilling backdrop for a piece of innovative thespian horseplay with Elize. A compelling interactive story comprising live music, comedy, equestrian performances and dazzling special effects, this latest creation by award-winning Dutch playwright Ad de Bont promises to transport visitors of all ages back to an Amsterdam of times gone by, for a thrilling theatrical showdown between the ‘haves’ of the stately Canal Belt and the ‘have-nots’ of the industrial Jordaan.

GOVERT DE ROOS

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26-29 DECEMBER HOLLANDSCHE MANEGE www.ssba.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Götterdämmerung

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Wagner’s mighty Ring comes to a rousing close with the revival of a performance with sets appeal.

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text Toby Main

ierre Audi, artistic director of the Dutch National Opera and the Holland Festival, made music theatre history in the mid-1990s when he attempted the first Dutch staging of Richard Wagner’s epic, four-part operatic extravaganza Der Ring des Nibelungen, using the definitive complete edition of Wagner’s original composition. Now, as the controversial composer’s bicentennial year draws to a close, so does the revival of a performance cycle that, unusually for an opera, has been a big hit on DVD – largely because of its visual impact. Striking modernist sets by American stage designer George Tyspin put the viewer right in the heart of the action of

the cataclysmic Götterdämmerung (literally, ‘Twilight of the Gods’), which depicts nothing less ambitious than the banks of the Rhine overflowing and the end of the world as we know it. ‘This Ring is special because the audience is a part of it – the whole audience is involved,’ enthuses Hartmut Haenchen, the conductor who resumes the helm for what has been hailed as an unusually flowing, texturally sensitive interpretation of the opera. ‘[Wagner] uses musical leitmotivs – not only when a specific character appears, but also to indicate if something relates to the theme of love, nature and water or deception.’ These presences loom large in curiously modern combinations.

If you’re worried about not having seen the three preceding operas, don’t be. In a prelude that handily recaps the past events, the three Norns, responsible for weaving the rope that dictates the destiny of the gods, set the scene efficiently. Lovers Brünnhilde (played here by British soprano Catherine Foster, making her DNO debut) and Siegfried (American tenor Stephen Gould) are blissfully unaware of what is to come, and of course the spectre of climate change is rarely out of the picture. You may want to bring an umbrella. 14-30 NOVEMBER HET MUZIEKTHEATER Amstel 3 www.dno.nl

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featured artist

don’t miss these

‘Even if what I’m recording is of no consequence, I’ve got to put it down on paper.’

‘Mother’ is the title of the latest stand-up set from American polymath Margaret Cho, who rose to fame in the mid1990s as the star of a sitcom that spun comedy from the peculiarities of life as a Korean-American teenager. She’s grown up now, of course, and the title of this latest jaunt refers not only to its impressive flight path, but also to the idea that, as a self-professed ‘nonstraight’ person, Cho must find alternatives to ‘the landmarks and rituals of a regular life’. Expect plenty of jokes about her own mother, of course, and perhaps the odd reflection on her last trip to Amsterdam. ‘I feel like I went to every coffeeshop in town,’ she told us.

MARGARET CHO

13 DECEMBER, COMEDY THEATER Nes 110 www.comedytheater.nl

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ALL THAT JAZZ

Born: 23 December 1991 (age 22) Talent(s): Winner Prinses Christina Concours 2008; nominated for the Young Pianist Competition 2013 Performs: Young Pianist Festival, 14-24 November, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ  ‘This competitions is a way of getting my career started. If I win, I’d like to help my mother with the money. She’s a piano teacher. Being a teacher in Georgia, where I’m from, is not easy, and she could also really use the money. I’m also thinking about helping the school I went to as a child; for me, this is where it all started. Pianists are quite lonely people, because they don’t necessarily need other musicians around them. That’s why I love chamber music, because it’s such a joy to play with other people – and I think happiness must be shared.’

NORTH SEA JAZZ CLUB Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com

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PAN AMSTERDAM Gallery hopping is a nice idea, but what if you could trip merrily between some of Europe’s best art dealers under one roof? That’s the idea behind PAN Amsterdam, ‘the art, antiques and design fair of today’. Founded in 1987, the fair has grown in size and renown and nowadays it draws upwards of 50,000 visitors to the RAI convention centre every year. Thousands of glorious objets d’art vie for your attention alongside paintings and antiques, all of which have been vetted by a crack team of independent experts who assess the objects for authenticity, quality and condition before the fair opens, so you can buy with confidence.

STUDIO JOB

SOPHIKO SIMSIVE, PIANIST

The American-style North Sea Jazz Club – think small tables, intimate stage, large bar – in the city’s Westerpark neighbourhood has impeccable credentials: it’s an initiative of the eponymous world-renowned festival, held in Rotterdam each July. Programming runs the gamut of the jazz, funk and soul genres from experimental to progressive. Upcoming highlights include Grammy-winning samba songstress Luciana Souza (10 November) and jazz-funk pioneer, vibraphonist and living legend Roy Ayers (pictured), who performed with Herbie Mann, Curtis Amy and Chico Hamilton back in the Sixties (14 December).

24 NOVEMBER-1 DECEMBER, RAI Europaplein www.pan.nl

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The Stedelijk celebrates Lawrence Weiner, an artist who literally wrote the rules of conceptual art.

text Toby Main

made it outside the artist’s head. Indeed, it represents the most extensive survey ever of Weiner’s word art to date. Phrases and fragments of language, some amusing, some cryptic (‘Take the bagel from Hegel and see where it rolls’) are painted on to walls in Weiner’s distinctive capital letters, and presented in previously undisplayed notebooks from the artist’s studio. For all its linguistic and formal abstraction, there is a typographical consistency to the work. Weiner used to favour the font Franklin Gothic until it became ubiquitous. Now he designs his own, distinctive letter sets. Weiner has enjoyed a long relationship with the Stedelijk and, although this exhibition originated at the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona and will travel onwards elsewhere, its Amsterdam incarnation has been configured with the artist’s input. UNTIL 5 JANUARY STEDELIJK MUSEUM Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

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The Night Watch Once a year, Amsterdam’s weird and wonderful museums become all-night playgrounds for young and old, during Museum Night. text Toby Main

nyone labouring under the misapprehension that museums are stuffy places where you can hear a pin drop should keep their ears to the ground on 2 November. Depending on your location around Amsterdam, you’ll be able to hear – variously – Rembrandt welcoming new apprentices into the studio at his (actual) home on the Jodenbreestraat before inviting them to have a dab at The (not actual) Night Watch; Muscovite musicians hammering out compositions on the dinky ivories of the Pianola Museum and the clattering of tuktuks as Indonesian residents of the Nieuw-West provide high-speed insights into the cultural history of their vibrant neighbourhood. The sights will be pretty special, too. At the cavernous Nieuwe Kerk on Dam square, visitors can take part in mass t’ai chi sessions, set up to complement the current Ming exhibition. At the Jewish Historical Museum street life is the focus, as Amsterdam photographer Debra Barraud talks about her spontaneous street

photography, and guests can leave their messages on a giant digital wailing wall. This is just a small taste of an all-night marathon of events happening in Amsterdam institutions that range in size from the tiny, free-wheeling W139 arts society to the behemoth likes of the Van Gogh Museum. Access to all 50 participating institutions costs €17.95 per person. Of course, no self-respecting 21st-century festival would be complete without its very own app. As well as putting information about the night’s whirlwind programme in the palm of your hand, the Museum Night App features ten suggestions for themed walking routes, guarding against ‘headless chicken’ mode. A new feature is the ‘Point of You’ facility, which invites visitors to take and share photos of themselves with a favourite exhibit, resulting in a digital map of the evening’s festivities. So get practising your pout – it seems the selfie is about to get smart. 2 NOVEMBER various locations www.museumnachtamsterdam.nl

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM © PASCAL FIELMICH

Textual revolution

t’s 45 years since a young artist from the Bronx by the name of Lawrence Weiner sat down to pen a ‘declaration of intent’ that would go on to be considered one of the milestones in the development of conceptual art. The declaration went thus: ‘1. The artist may construct the piece. 2. The piece may be fabricated. 3. The piece need not be built. Each being equal and consistent with the intent of the artists, the decision as to condition rests with the receiver upon the occasion of receivership.’ In other words, Weiner was convinced that it was possible for an artwork to exist purely as an idea. In the same year, 1968, he created a small book entitled Statements. Since the work consisted of nothing but words, there was no need – Weiner reasoned – to display the physical object at all. Fortunately for visitors who’ve parted with their admission charge, the Weiner work that makes up the Stedelijk’s Written on the Wind exhibition has

highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

LAWRENCE WEINER, UNTITLED (FINANCIAL DRAWING [INTO RESOLUITON])

ADVERTORIAL

Amsterdam, city of diamonds

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COSTER DIAMONDS Paulus Potterstraat 2 +31 (0)20 305 5555 www.costerdiamonds.com

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GASSAN DIAMONDS Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175 +31 (0)20 622 5333 www.gassan.com

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isted on the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage, the craft of diamond cutting has been an important part of Dutch heritage since Sephardic Jews introduced the industry in the late 16th century. Today, Amsterdam’s reputation as the city of diamonds is unparalleled: it even has its own cut, the ‘brilliant’ or Amsterdam cut. A visit to one of the city’s most highly respected diamond factories is a chance to learn all about the fascinating history of diamond cutting in the city, to see master craftsmen at work and to discover the secret of the four ‘c’s – carat, colour, clarity and cut – by which value is determined. Of course, there are plenty of opportunities to take home a sparkling souvenir, too. After all, diamonds are for ever…

THE HISTORICAL FACTORY OF GASSAN DIAMONDS

COSTER DIAMONDS' BEAUTIFUL MUSEUMPLEIN LOCATION

Amsterdam has been home to the world’s most distinguished diamond dealers for 425 years.

COSTER DIAMONDS Back in 1840, diamond cutter Moses Elias Coster moved into premises at Waterlooplein. His pioneering spirit revolutionised the industry, and Coster Diamonds was the first diamond-cutting factory in the Netherlands to utilise steam power. Coster’s commitment to quality saw him invited by Queen Victoria of England to re-cut the world-famous Kohi-Noor. The prestige and skill of this commission saw Coster officially recognised as a master diamond cutter. Today, Coster Diamonds is located in three stately premises, all with free entrance and beautifully situated on the city’s Museum Square. The attached Diamond Museum houses many of the most desired pieces in history, including the Katana and the Diamond Ape Skull.

GASSAN DIAMONDS A traditional family-owned business, Gassan Diamonds was founded by Samuel Gassan in October 1945. The company’s master craftsmen are based in an historic steam-powered diamond-polishing factory in the heart of old Amsterdam. Gassan Diamonds is a market leader within the diamond world, and its reputation was solidified with the introduction of the proprietary diamond cut, the Gassan 121. In December 2012, Gassan Diamonds was proud to welcome its 377,596th visitor, which set a new record. Visitors to the factory are given a free guided tour, during which they discover how the quality of diamonds is determined, and are given the chance to examine individual cut diamonds and jewels for themselves.

film

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Docs rock!

International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam – IDFA – shows us the ups and downs of real life, in real life… and in clay.

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text Bregtje Schudel

ounded in 1988 to stimulate the industry, an event like the International Documentary Festival Amsterdam – the largest festival of its kind in the world – probably doesn’t need much introduction. The biggest problem, as always, is where to start? Here’s our top five don’t-miss docs to watch this edition.

20 NOVEMBER-1 DECEMBER various locations www.idfa.nl

1) THE MISSING PICTURE This year’s special guest is Cambodian filmmaker Rithy Panh (b1964), who rose to fame in 2003 with his documentary S21, The Khmer Rouge Death Machine. His newest is about his personal experiences under the Khmer Rouge in the Seventies, reenacted using clay figures.

2) THE LAST OF THE UNJUST Most doc fans have heard, and seen parts of, Shoah, Claude Lanzmann’s ten-hour documentary about the Holocaust, consisting solely of talking heads. But one ‘head’ was missing – until now, with the release of The Last of the Unjust: the controversial figure of Benjamin Murmelstein (19051989), the only Jewish Elder to survive the Holocaust. 3) MANHUNT Fans of Zero Dark Thirty may be a bit disappointed: the real women who tracked down Osama Bin Laden don’t look one bit like Jessica Chastain. But other than that, Greg Barker’s Manhunt is just as gripping. Moreover, it’s the real deal.

4) CUTIE AND THE BOXER Winner of Best Documentary at this year’s Sundance, and it’s not hard to understand why. A bittersweet glimpse into the lives of ageing New York artists Ushio and Noriko Shinohara, it’s an insight into the art of marriage – and the marriage of their respective arts. 5) COMEDY WARRIORS Documentary isn’t all doom and gloom, as borne out by IDFA’s new Stand-Up Documentary programme. The characters in these films all find humour in their darkest hours – from biopics on comedians Richard Pryor and Moms Mabley to the wounded war veterans in Comedy Warriors, who turn their misfortunes into a comic act.

highlight

clubbing essentials

Our must-see film pick this issue…

Club of the month DOKA

OT301

Temporary clubs are always better than permanent ones. Gone before you get the chance to lose interest, they give you the opportunity to reminiscence about the good old days while you’re bang in the middle of them. DOKA will be open as long as Canvas – located on the seventh floor of the same building – is undergoing a make-over, and the line-up of the raw and dark basement space is taken care of by Canvas promoters. They have taken the opportunity to book slightly more challenging and experimental acts so far, with plenty of leftfield house, wonky beats, Italo disco and minimal wave nights.

Amsterdam Film Week

DFA isn’t Amsterdam’s only true-to-life film festival this month. The third edition of the Amsterdam Film Week features movies that are authentic – if not in fact, then in feeling – from classics such as Amour, Lincoln and Argo to films which have already rocked the festival circuit but are yet to be released in the Netherlands. There’s an interesting selection of European and world cinema (most, sadly, will only have Dutch subtitles), but the international line-up is every bit as impressive. From relative unknowns like Nicole Holofcener’s Enough Said (a quietly insightful romantic comedy with Julia Louis-Dreyfuss and the late James Gandolfini) and the sweet coming-of-age film The Way, Way Back (starring Steve Carrel as an obnoxious stepdad), to the newest film by Lee ‘Precious’ Daniels: The Butler, the true-life story of a butler (played by Forest Whitaker) who served the White House for more than 30 years. Also based on real events – but by far the better pick – is Fruitvale Station, which follows the last day in the life of troubled Oscar Grant III (The Wire’s Michael B Jordan), before he got shot by a San Francisco transit cop just for being black in the wrong place at the wrong time. Together with Chiwetel Ejiofor in Steve McQueen’s 12 Years a Slave, both Jordan and Whitaker are strong contenders for next year’s Best Actor Oscar race. Decide for yourself who is most worthy at Amsterdam Film Week.

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Wibautstraat 150 www.doka-amsterdam.nl

TROUW When the most important club in the Netherlands opened in 2009, clubbers were still sad about the demise of its predecessor 11. But with its great sound, architecture and excellent national and international forward-thinking programming, Trouw – the first venue in town to obtain a 24-hour licence – is even better than 11 ever was. This is a true Mecca for lovers of leftfield electronic music.

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Wibautstraat 127-131 www.trouwamsterdam.nl

UNTIL 3 NOVEMBER various locations www.amsterdamfilmweek.nl

THE BUTLER

JIMMY WOO Initially brought to Amsterdam as a venue for the elite, both musically and clientele-wise, Jimmy Woo soon failed to live up to its early aspirations – in the best, most egalitarian way. The amazingly lit dance floor, good friendly mix of people and blend of underground and popular club music makes this venue a nice place to boogie. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 www.jimmywoo.nl

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Cosy, messy, alternative, rough and underground, the former film school-turnedsquat-turned-cultural centre that is OT301 programmes anything from bass to house and from punk to dub-reggae. Cheap drink prices and cover charges are a pro, while the early closing times (3AM on weekends) are a definite con, although it saves you going to bed really late or it gives you the opportunity to rush on to another nightclub. Overtoom 301 www.ot301.nl

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PARADISO An Amsterdam classic, this wooden church has seen all great pop musicians perform on its stages between its early years as a squat and current times when things have become a little more organised. Live music tends to be programmed early on with more rhythmic stuff not finding its way to the line-up before midnight. Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl

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CLUB NYX Rising from the ashes of the famous EXIT club on the Reguliersdwarsstraat, NYX is a gay club that’s open to all sexual persuasions – encouraging gay clubbers to take their straight friends with them. Spread over three floors, it hosts performances and club nights catering to a range of musical tastes. Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl

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CLUB UP Club Up is a stage for young talent hosted in art club De Kring, which usually only admits members. But every Thursday-Saturday, the club is open to everyone who is interested in eccentric, wacky, free-spirited parties with a decidedly artistic edge. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26 www.clubup.nl

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nov & dec 2013

PART III

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

EAT DRINK CHIC

‘CUSTOMERS ARE OFTEN SERVED BY THE OWNER OF THE STORE, WHICH MAKES IT FEEL LIKE A VILLAGE STREET WITHIN THE BIG CITY.’

34 40 42 43 44 46

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: ‘UTRECHTSEBUURT’ EATING OUT ON THE MENU SEASONAL SPECIALITIES PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

CHARLIE & MARY This eco fashion store offers green shopping with style. Images of hessian kaftans instantly vanish on entering this pretty Nordic-style spot, with designers such as Gemma Marissa and Monkee Genes offering everything from Fair Trade jeans to hand-stitched necklaces. There’s also a café serving some of the best organic carrot cake in town. Gerard Doustraat 84 www.charliemary.com

If you’re struggling to find the ideal gift for the outdoorsy type in your life, you could do a lot worse than to check out lovely webshop THE QUIET FARM. Headquartered in Amsterdam; ‘heartquartered’ in Ireland, it’s the influence of the latter that comes through most clearly: a stag antler whistle, spruce resin ointment and tactile brass pencil tins, which will only improve with age and use, all make for luxurious, thoughtful stocking fillers. And you don’t even have to leave your house... www.thequietfarm.com

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

André Sprangers, owner of shoe shop Zwartjes van 1883, on the appeal of the ‘Utrechtsesbuurt’

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

UTRECHTSEBUURT NARVEET BRAR, 30

banking commercial contracts negotiator & local resident ‘Utrechtsestraat is an enclave of cosiness right off the touristy centre. In the winter, with all the boutique shops so nicely decorated, it really gives off a feeling of warmth and homeliness.’

With its independent shops, lively squares, pretty canals and excellent eateries, the Utrechtsebuurt proves that good things come in small packages. text Karin Engelbrecht photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Canal Belt village

‘U

trechtsebuurt’ is the unofficial moniker used by many local residents and business owners for a charming slice of the Canal Belt flanked by the Amstel River and the Reguliersgracht, situated between the Rembrandt- and Frederiks squares. QUALITY STREET Utrechtsestraat, which runs through the area, offers a varied selection of shops, including boutiques, bookstores and designer furniture and homeware stores, with beautiful views of the Canal Ring. André Sprangers, a resident for 52 years and owner of high-end shoe shop Zwartjes van 1883 (number 123 ) says, ‘The Utrechtsestraat is about selling quality in a quality environment. With plenty of independent businesses, the emphasis is on pleasing local shoppers.’ The street’s popularity has recently attracted some chains, too, including local lifestyle store Sissy-Boy (numbers 81-83 ), sustainable supermarket Marqt (number 17 ) and international fashion brands

such as American Apparel (number 85 ) and Marc by Marc Jacobs (number 120 ). ‘Customers are often served by the owner of the store, which makes it feel like a village street within a big city,’ Sprangers continues. ‘Many storeowners live above their shops, which is why the Utrechtsestraat remains a lively and safe street even after closing time. We take care of our street – and that shows.’ Things weren’t always this rosy in Utrechtsestraat, named for the former Utrechtsepoort city gate. While the street has been a bustling shopping destination since its creation in 1658, prostitution and drugs were a major problem on the 600-metre street as recently as 1985. EXTREME MAKEOVER Eyeing the neon glare of Thorbeckeand Rembrandt squares, it’s hard to imagine that one of the city’s busiest nightlife districts was once home to an adjoining dairy and cheese market. Aiming to bring back a little of the area’s former wholesomeness, Ernst Weidema, square manager for

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Juttersdok offers the odd vintage find along with plenty of jolly jumble-sale junk, well worth a rummage. THE LOBSTER HOUSE This is the place to pick up whole lobster and fresh oysters for your Christmas table. The former garage on Frederiksplein has undergone a stylish upgrade – the pared-down prawn pink and white décor evokes a hipster version of the vintage tilewalled deli – which makes it a fine in-between-shopping snack stop. We recommend the crab burger (€6), washed down with Bundaberg ginger beer, eaten at the counter.

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Frederiksplein 6-8 www.lobsterhouse.nl

AMSTELVELD This leafy square was created by chance. The small, wooden Amstelkerk church, built c1670, was supposed to be temporary, until the funds for a much larger church were collected. That never happened, and the site has become a popular venue for markets and classical music and jazz concerts. Locals flock here to sip a beer at Café NeL, while the kids play in the adjoining park.

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Amstelveld 10 http://nelamstelveld.nl

a foundation that protects the interests of local business owners, says: ‘We want to clean up the image of these squares – literally and figuratively.’ According to Weidema, plans include getting rid of much of the signage so that the historic buildings, and not the neon, will once again command attention, plus improved paving and more room for café patios. Restaurant Van Rijn (Rembrandtplein 17 ), which offers poshed-up Dutch dishes in a sleek space, is an early success.

YNSKE LEENDERS, 22 interior design student

‘It’s a wonderful street, with so many good shops and restaurants. It’s a very unique area of Amsterdam.’

FINE FOOD & DUTCH CULTURE A century ago, the neighbourhood boasted various grocers, butchers and wine traders, a tea shop and a fishmonger famous for its basins of live fish. Today, some of the city’s finest food shops can still be found in the area, including wine shop Glandorf & Thijs (Kerkstraat 365 ), artisan butcher Slagerij de Leeuw (Utrechtsestraat 92 ) and stylish chocolatier Van Soest (Utrechtsestraat 143 ). Restaurants of note in the area include Utrechtsedwarstafel (Utrechtsedwarsstraat 107-109 ) with its ‘ballet of wine and food’; posh Italian Segugio (Utrechtsestraat 96 ); Med-led Fyra (Noorderstraat 19-23 ) and French specialist Antoine (Kerkstraat 377 ). After a taste of Dutch culture instead? Within walking distance of the area you can attend musicals, cabaret performances and intimate pop concerts at Royal Theatre Carré (Amstel 115-125 ), see ballet and opera performances at Het Muziektheater (Waterlooplein 22 ) and catch the latest cabaret performances at De Kleine Komedie (Amstel 56-58 ). The Hermitage Amsterdam (Amstel 51 ), the Dutch satellite of the iconic St Petersburg institution, is equally nearby.

MAARTEN BEUCKER ANDREAE, 40 entrepreneur of the year 2009 for his internet company TTY

‘We moved our company here a few years ago and we find that it’s one of the best areas to work. The spirit is very friendly, genuine and alive with all the people sitting in the bars and at the terraces.’

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

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             



THE CITY STREET SPA

JUTTERSDOK

British expat Chantal Naughton’s powder blue boutique spa is a favourite with the city’s Canal Belt clique, but the aestheticians at this urban retreat make everyone feel welcome. The OPI Pedicure (€53, 60min) soothes tired shopping feet, the aromatherapy massage (€80, 60min) rubs seasonal stresses away and the ‘non-surgical facelift’ (€95, 60min) imparts that pre-party glow.

What could be more in the spirit of the holidays than helping to create work for the needy by shopping at this charming charity shop? Juttersdok offers a colourful selection of ceramics, antiques, lamps, postcards, film posters, dog-eared books and the odd vintage find along with plenty of jolly jumble-sale junk. It’s a fun way to spend an afternoon, sifting through the clutter.



Prinsengracht 764 http://thecitystreetspa.com



Kerkstraat 354 www.juttersdok.nl

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

‘The Utrechtsestraat is about selling quality in a quality environment.’ GLANDORF & THIJS The patrons take a ‘personal approach to wine’, which means that they only stock wine from small to mediumsized wineries they’ve personally visited – from select champagnes to reasonable reds and from the expected (good Rieslings, Pinot Noirs and Barolos) to unexpected choices, such as bubbly from Sicily and New Zealand.

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Kerkstraat 365 www.glandorfenthijs.com

ZWART OP WIT JAN Find stylish last-minute gifts, a little something for yourself or adorable items for the smallest members of the family at this petite concept store. Jan’s well-curated selection includes leather laptop covers from Liebeskind and Royal Republic, Limeau Sirop d’Amsterdam cordials, Design Letters tableware, Mimic scarves, Hultquist bracelets and Miffy lamps.

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Utrechtsestraat 74 www.facebook.com/ janconceptstore

CAFÉ OOSTERLING This old-fashioned brown café, on the corner of Utrechtsestraat and Frederiksplein, is a slice of local history and has been owned by the Oosterling family since 1897. The building dates from c1735, when the VOC (Dutch East India Company) traded tea, coffee and spices from the Dutch East Indies from behind the very same counter still in use today (in case you’ve ever wondered why it’s so low). Many of Amsterdam’s historic cafés were once both a pub and an off-licence, but Café Oosterling is one of the few that still operate as such, with a good selection of Dutch jenevers and other liquors on offer (even late at night, when other off-licences are closed). Utrechtsestraat 140

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The bibliophiles’ bookstore Zwart op Wit (literally, ‘black on white’) carries the latest issues of magazines such as The Paris Review, Monocle, Nature and #59 Magazine, newspapers including Le Monde, Die Welt, Corriere della Sera and the Daily Telegraph, as well as literature, cookbooks, children’s books and books focused on history, philosophy and psychology in Dutch and English. Open early, and on Sundays.



Utrechtsestraat 149 www.zwartopwitboekhandel.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

Home sweet home

oasting the relaxed atmosphere of home without hours spent slaving in the kitchen, living-room restaurants are all the rage. SASKIA’S HUISKAMER For €39 you eat and drink all night, helping yourself to wine from the fridge, courtesy of the lovely Saskia (pictured).

www.huiskamerrestaurant.com

CARO KOOKT Every Friday, for €18.50 you can enjoy a delicious meal prepared with local products in Caro’s lovely Jordaan home. www.carokookt.nl

EAT WITH ME Michiel Stoffels’ cosy living-room restaurant, with its long wooden table and space for 15-30 people, is perfect for group bookings. For €38 p/p you get dinner and drinks.

www.maritshuiskamerrestaurant.nl

MARLEEN KOOKT Want to eat in your own living room but no time to cook? Marleen delivers super-healthy food ready to be served up – and all for just €10 per serving. www.marleenkookt.nl

COECK Amidst the meadows of Broek in Waterland in an old houseboat is a beautiful living room restaurant for five to ten people, around €40 p/p; open on request. www.coeck.nl

NEW TREND

MARITS HUISKAMER RESTAURANT This mint green living room exudes class, atmosphere and simplicity. For €29.50, you get a wonderful, seasonal menu.

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

www.eten-bijmij.nl

eating out

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41 trendy CHOW Serial nightlife mogul and restaurateur Casper Reinders (of Jimmy Woo, Bo Cinq and Lion Noir fame, to name but a few) certainly has the Midas touch. His latest venture, Chow, serves up authentic pan-Asian fare in a relaxed, eclectic atmosphere full of Reinders’ classic decorative touches (think raw wood, industrial elements and taxidermy a-plenty). Taking over from a tourist-trap tapas bar, Chow ups the ante with superlative salmon sashimi and melt-in-the-mouth Wagyu beef.

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Rozengracht 106 www.restaurantchow.nl

critics’ choice &SAMHOUD FOODLAB

e’ve seen some pretty far-out claims on press releases, but we’re not sure what to make of ‘the next culinary revolution’ courtesy of Salem Samhoud and Moshik Roth (pictured) of the innovative two Michelin-star restaurant &samhoud places in Amsterdam. With their latest venture, the culinary duo promise gastronomy designed to make diners think, feel and look better. The world’s self-professed first DNA restaurant, open 31 October, will use DNA to give ‘a new dimension’ to food – that is, meals will no longer be purely functional or pleasure-driven, but will offer an ‘added boost for body and mind’. Developed in collaboration with the Centre For Enhanced Food in Wageningen, food will come in concentration- or energy-boosting and anti-ageing menus. Prices range from €5 for a small shake to €35 for a three-course meal. Judging by the delicious cooking at &samhoud places we’re pretty confident that eating our way to good health at &samhoud foodlab will be an exercise in deliciousness. Address details to be announced http://foodlab.samhoud.com

classic GEISHA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

quick & simple KERKSTRAAT 59 This slick new lunch spot by the folks behind Amsterdam’s most popular Mexican restaurant, Los Pilones, offers various egg dishes, including ‘Huevos Rancheros Los Pilones’, as well as simple sandwiches, soups and salads.

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Kerkstraat 59 www.kerkstraat59.com

Conveniently located near Central Station, Geisha offers excellent, shareable Pan-Asian finger food in a stunning space designed by architects Prast/Hooft, who created three mood rooms so that the setting is equally suited to business meetings, cocktails with friends or romantic rendezvous (book a table in the Champagne Lounge, which offers secluded candlelit booths). Owned by the sisters Meili, Meauw and Dongmie Wang, who learned the trade in their parents’ Chinese restaurant, the excellent service here leaves no doubt that the hospitality gene was passed on. We recommend the Peking duck spring rolls and the meltingly tender tuna sashimi.

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Prins Hendrikkade 106 www.restaurantgeisha.nl

on the menu

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every palate. text Karin Engelbrecht

small bites

local cafés

GARTINE

LA OLIVA

CAFÉ VRIJDAG

Tucked away in a tiny alley between Rokin and Kalverstraat is a shrine to slow food, where the proprietors grow their own produce and use regional delicacies that appear on Slow Food’s ‘Ark of Taste’, an official list of protected Dutch heritage products. It’s the perfect place to enjoy dishes such as ‘herbed scrambled eggs on sourdough toast’.

The pintxos (skewered Basque bites) lovingly displayed on the bar at this Jordaan favourite draw in ravenous early-evening passers-by, who stop for a glass of Spanish wine with pata negra ham or roasted red peppers with anchovies. Some linger longer for the zarzuela, that classic Spanish fish stew, and crema Catalana (caramelised custard).

Kudos to Reinout Ezinga and Sikko de Jong for turning an unloved corner of Rivierenbuurt into a destination spot for after-work drinks, with an interesting selection of artisanal beers – from Dutch and Belgian to Scottish and American. The 280m2 café, officially opened in September, is a celebration of Amsterdam School-style architecture.

LITTLE COLLINS

PICA PICA

BAR BUKOWSKI

Amsterdam’s expats meet here for Aussie-style brunch with coconut crumbed French toast and corn and coriander fritters. The gut-busting ‘big one’ is the ultimate hangover cure: house-made sausage with bacon, eggs, baked beans, garlicky spinach, baked mushrooms, spicy chutney and sourdough toast.

Enjoy pica pica (‘little bites’) at this excellent tapas bar down a forgotten side street in Oost, where Catalan chef Georg Pastor Cano walks an exciting tightrope between tradition and innovation. We recommend the pulpo a la Gallega (tender paprikaflecked octopus) and mushroom croquettes with truffle sauce.

‘There’s always a reason to drink,’ said the writer Charles Bukowski, and at the eponymous new bar in Amsterdam Oost, with its cool midcentury interior, we’re happy to oblige. Drown your sorrows in darkly sweet local Brouwerij ’t IJ Struis beer (9%, the Netherlands) or the bitter blonde Hopus (8.5%, Belgium).

Taksteeg 7 www.gartine.nl

Eerste Sweelinckstraat 19F www.littlecollins.nl

DE BAKKERSWINKEL

brunch

Egelantiersstraat 122-124 www.laoliva.nl

Camperstraat 48-50 www.restaurantpicapica.nl

Amsteldijk 137 www.cafevrijdagamsterdam.nl

Oosterpark 10 www.barbukowski.nl

DE BAKKERSWINKEL

BOCA’S PARK

DE DUVEL

With its easy-going decor, family-style seating and reliably delicious croissants, quiches, scones, fresh juices and fruit shakes, De Bakkerswinkel (‘the bakers’ shop’), which is situated in Amsterdam’s former Western Gas Works (Westergasfabriek), is always rammed with young families, gossiping girlfriends and creatives tapping their touch screens.

This park-side spot is trending with De Pijp’s resident cool kids, who come here to nibble on mini sandwiches (bocadillos) and appetiser platters. The southern satellite of the hip Jordaan gastro-bar features a low-slung interior, with a design bike over the door. We recommend the beef chimichurri and Roquefort with pear sandwiches.

This beloved De Pijp institution attracts neighbourhood locals, shoppers from the nearby Albert Cuyp market and parents with their pushchairs, who come for its cosy candle-lit interior, traditional Dutch apple pie and excellent Buscaglione coffee. Trading on its reputation of 22 years, a red letter ‘D’ on their awning is the only clue that you’ve arrived.

Polonceaukade 1 www.debakkerswinkel.nl

Sarphatipark 4 www.bar-bocas.nl

Eerste Van der Helststraat 59-61 www.deduvel.nl

SEASONAL SPECIALITIES Taste the Dutch festive season.

hen seasonal street stalls start to appear around the city like haloed temptresses and supermarket shelves sigh under a gluttonous load of chocolate letters and kruidnoten (small round spiced cookies), you know the Dutch holidays have arrived. The tradition of giving an edible letter during Sinterklaas (The Feast of St Nicholas on 5 December) dates back to the 16th century. Van Soest, an artisanal chocolatier, makes handsome, handcrafted chocolate letters in assorted flavours. Another Sinterklaas ritual sees the strewing of kruidnoten, which supposedly suggests fertility and abundance. The slightly larger kruidmoppen sold at sustainable super-

market Marqt are sure to hit the spot. New Year in the Netherlands is welcomed with deep-fried fritters soused in sugar. The best place to buy oliebollen (literally: ‘oil balls’), a precursor of the American doughnut introduced to the New World by early Dutch settlers, is Hartog’s Volkoren, who make a non-greasy and surprisingly light wholewheat version of the delicacy. VAN SOEST CHOCOLATIER Utrechtsestraat 143 www.vansoest-amsterdam.nl MARQT Overtoom 21, Haarlemmerstraat 165 & Utrechtsestraat 17, www.marqt.com HARTOG’S VOLKOREN Ruyschstraat 56, www.volkorenbrood.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

HAY

NEW IN TOWN

WHAT: Popular Scandinavian design brand HAY has opened its first Dutch store. Founded in 2002, HAY’s remit is to facilitate Danish furniture design’s return to the innovative greatness of the 1950s and ’60s – but in a contemporary context. The new Spuistraat store sells the entire collection of solid, straightforward HAY designs, from chairs and rugs to kitchen accessories and desk organisers. INTERIOR: A light and spacious shop with high ceilings and entrances on both the Spuistraat and

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. De Koffiesalon, maker of arguably Amsterdam’s finest espresso, has opened a coffee bar in one corner of the store. MUST HAVE: The stylish Copenhague Table, with its slanted legs reminiscent of schoolroom furniture. Designed by French brothers Ronan and Erwin Bouroullec, it retails at €1,287. A few sizes smaller – and infinitely more affordable, not to mention handluggage friendly – are the striped tea towels, spotted tablecloths and coloured glassware by Dutch design darlings Scholten & Baijings. The desk accessories are equally desirable.

CONCLUSION: A beautiful shop packed with uncomplicated, joyful design. HAY is not for the happy few: gifts and accessories start at just €5.

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Spuistraat 281 www.hay-amsterdam.com

45 beauty store COSMANIA A veritable candy store for fans of niche beauty products, Cosmania owners Marcel and Marije travel the globe to scout extra special (affordable) brands that you won’t find at any regular Dutch drugstore. Pomegranate Cleansing Scrub cream from Greek beauty band Korres, for instance; moisturiser by British eco-brand Neal’s Yard or no-mess nail polish pills by Dose. They also sell a range of hair products from top Swedish stylists Sacha Mitic and Juan Rosenlind, named Sachajuan.

eclectic

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Herenstraat 19 www.cosmania.nl

RESTORED The place to go for unique products by talented up-and-coming designers and small labels. On offer are beautiful French garments, leather bags and backpacks, plaids with geometrical patterns, refined jewellery, delicate porcelain cups and handmade copper watering cans. What Restored’s products all have in common is their craftsmanship and attention to detail.



THIJS WOLZAK

Haarlemmerdijk 39 www.restored.nl

classic THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER Opened in 1972, The American Book Center is an English-language book store that stocks a wide selection of books, magazines and merchandise, all imported directly from the US and UK. ABC is famous for its books on graphic design, urban culture, music and travel, but you’ll find volumes on every subject imaginable in this three-storey bibliophile’s dream. With 60,000 titles in-store, it’s the biggest bricks-and-mortar source of English-language books on the European continent.

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Spui 12 www.abc.nl

  

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style emporiums for him and her.

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     

text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

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

ANGEL AGUDO (M)

NUKUHIVA (M/F)

Italian style and flair is effortlessly combined with Nordic fit and comfort. In stock are a nice selection of men’s fashion brands, including Drykorn, Gabba and Filippa K. And while you’re there you might want to get a haircut to match your outfit: the back room accommodates a barber.

Sustainable clothing and accessories – from hand-woven shawls and shirts to sturdy bags made out of discarded ship sails and trendy jackets made from recycled plastic bottles. Haarlemmerstraat 36 www.nukuhiva.nl

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Sarphatipark 46 www.angelagudo.nl

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN (M/F)

AZZURO DUE (F) Located on the chic PC Hooftstraat, Azzuro Due, the hipper younger sister of next door’s Azzuro, is a Valhalla for fashionistas, stocking saucy picks from Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang and the like. Young and upcoming Dutch designers are offered a platform to display their talent as well.



PC Hoofstraat 138 www.azzurofashiongroup.nl

British fashion brand Topshop/Topman has arrived in the Netherlands at last! Inside department store de Bijenkorf you’ll find their low-priced, fashion-forward clothes and accessories. Topman’s concession (140m2) is on the ground flour, while the girls have to take the escalator to the first floor (150m2).

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Dam 1 www.topshop.com

DAAD (M/F)

ULTRAVIOLET (M)

Daad offers a mix of streetwear and accessories with rock and punk influences; shoes, shirts and bags by brands like Boy London, Filles a Papa and Les Artists. They also sell Blood Concept perfumes, Frends headphones and Pop up Paris candles.

Formerly known as 2PR, Ultraviolet offers impressive fashion-forward styles for men. In two adjoining shops you’ll find the modernist collections of Rick Owens, Boris Bidjan and Damir Doma, as well as contemporary casual clothes by Acne, Hope and Levi’s Made&Crafted.

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Singel 369 www.daadamsterdam.com

WE ARE LABELS (M/F) With three shops in town and two more on the way, We Are Labels is definitely on to something with their concept of stylish yet affordable fashion. Prices average between €40 and €80 ,and the boutiques offer Samsoe&Samsoe, Suit and Anerkjendt for men, while women can stock up on Just Female, Minimum and Cheap Monday.

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Utrechtsestraat 68 & 36 ; Herengracht 356 , www.wearelabels.com

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Oude Hoogstraat 10-12 www.ultraviolet-amsterdam.nl

PS ATELIER (M/F) The store of choice for men and women with a thing for vintage high-end fashion. In PS Atelier (short for Petit Salon) you might stumble upon a Chanel dress or a Gucci purse. This place is not your average second-hand store, though: the designer pieces are in perfect condition, sometimes with original pricetags still attached. Oude Spiegelstraat 10 www.ps-atelier.com

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PART IV

THE

nov & dec 2013

CLUBBING/MUSIC/ EXHIBITIONS/STAGE/ KIDS/FESTIVALS/ SPORTS/GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

FRAMED IN PRINT Subtitled ‘40 years of Dutch Magazine Photography’, this exhibition in Amsterdam’s pre-eminent photography museum does exactly what it says on the tin. Featuring a diverse range of shots from photographers including Boudewijn Neuteboom and Bart Nieuwenhuijs, the images here range from Egyptian street scenes to esoteric modern-art displays. They offer a survey of the current state of Dutch magazine photography, as well as an insight into its development since the 1970s. UNTIL 11 DECEMBER Foam, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org

PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING HIFI Expect analogue beat producers and superstar remixers Simian Mobile Disco to spin a mix of underground sounds and bombastic highlights of contemporary pop music. HIFI residents Nuno dos Santos and Patrice Bäumel are likely to play a tech-heavy set, in slight contrast with the London-based headliners. Trouw, Sat 2 Nov, 21.30, €17, €8 before midnight CINE|SONIC: POLE MEETS NICHOLAS PROVOST A cinematic experience and club night in one. Five flicks by Provost will screen while German dub-techno/IDM producer POLE performs his deep soundscapes live. Pole’s music is very uniform but original; with Kit Clayton he was one of the founding fathers of the click ’n’ cuts genre during the late 1990s. Trouw, Thur 7 Nov, 20.30, €10

STEVE RACHMAD’S BIRTHDAY With releases on Amsterdam’s Spiritual Records dating back to the early 1990s, Steve Rachmad was one of the very first Dutch techno artist to become internationally successful. Listen to the Rachmad Project Part 1 to 5 for some pre-show fun. Studio 80, Sat 16 Nov, 23.00, €15 GOLD PANDA London’s Derwin Panda, aka Gold Panda, has touched upon an incredible range of experimental electronic subgenres during his short career: folktronics, post-dubstep, instrumental hip hop, wonky and what not. Perfect soul food for a Tuesday night. Trouw, Tue 19 Nov, 20.30, €17

BONOBO Simon Green, aka Bonobo, is one of the few artists to keep the Ninja Tune label interesting at the minute. Head down to the Leidseplein tonight if you fancy TROUW LOVES NACHTDIGITAL mind-bending funkiness with Describe the minimal techno an emphasis on complex and era as the soulless Dark Age of confusing basslines. electronic music and we know Paradiso, Wed 20 Nov, where you’re coming from, but 19.00, €22 there are some exceptions that MOUNT KIMBIE (LIVE) we shouldn’t ever forget. Take Hamburg’s Isolée, whose magic, Mount Kimbie, consisting of organic melodies and stretched Londoners Dominic Maker and beats impressed anybody who Kai Campos, emerged from the liked electronic music during the post-dubstep scene a few years early 2000s. Isolée’s magnum back before recently developing opus is a beautiful fairytale like into some of Warp Records most anthem called ‘Beau Mot Plage’ – beloved new signings. Their atcheck it out. mospheric, poppy beats now apTrouw, Sat 9 Nov, 23.00, €17, peal to a wide-ranging hipster/ €8 before midnight crossover crowd. Trouw, Thur 21 Nov, 20.30, €17 ALUNAGEORGE (LIVE) RUSH HOUR ON & ON AlunaGeorge were featured on WEEKENDER Disclosure’s smash hit ‘White Noise’, although their tunes are This is the best you’ll be likely less housey and more on a futo get this month. Leading local turistic R&B and bass tip. They promoters and record labels in can count themselves among the these fields, Rush Hour always most promising lot of high qual- hit and never miss. Sadar Bahar ity UK pop musicians. Listen is one of Chicago’s most fanatic to songs like ‘Your Drums, Your record collectors when it comes Love’ and ‘Attracting Flies’ and to disco, boogie, soul and funk you’ll know what we mean. and hence a regular at Rush Melkweg, Wed 13 Nov, Hour events. Amsterdammer 20.00, €13 Tom Trago’s set will be one for fans of disco-infused house CLONE LABEL NIGHT and Rush Hour’s CEO Antal is Rotterdam’s Clone Records are known to play literally anything, back in Amsterdam, shortly especially when facing a familiar after the label showcase they did crowd. This night continues during ADE, together with Aminto the Sunday morning and sterdam-based pals Delsin and afternoon with a fresh line-up Rush Hour. This time around, it’s for a maybe not-so-fresh crowd. a bit of a duo label night as they Highlights on the 24th are young bring in International DJ GigDetroit house and techno hero olos’ DJ Hell, whose resumé inKyle Hall and DJ Traxx (Chicacludes bringing the electroclash go), who loves spinning analogue genre into the world during the shit across the house, techno and late 1990s. As a DJ, he’s known to electronic new wave genres. Finbe eclectic, playing beats across ishing off the bill on this second all electronic dance genres. day are Jay Daniel (of Theo ParTrouw, Fri 15 Nov, 23.00, €17, rish’s Sound Signature imprint), €8 before midnight Rush Hour’s Young Marco and Interstellar Funk (Tom Trago). DRUKPERS Trouw, Sat 23 & Sun 24 Nov, The word upside down: to23.00, €20, €8 before midnight, night’s headliners play in the €8 between 08.00 and 12.00 basement: Glasgow’s famous DJ OBSCURA duo Optimo play a wide range of banging yet high quality dance An interesting mix tonight with music – all night long. Upstairs, Illum Sphere, whose CV includes Barnt, Job Jobse and Luc Mast house, bass, electronica and inplay leftfield club beats. strumental hip hop productions. Trouw, Sat 16 Nov, 23.00, €17, Seeing this man behind the €8 before midnight decks should be interesting. Lo-

Choice clubbing

CHARANJIT SINGH Apparently, Indian Bollywood producer Charanjit Singh just wanted to cash in on the disco hype when he produced a bunch of electronic dance tunes in 1982 that in hindsight sound like psy-trance avant-la-lettre. After Singh lived for 30 years in near absolute obscurity, Edo Bouman – one of Amsterdam’s most frantic crate diggers – brought him back to the attention of the club scene by releasing the compilation Ten Ragas To A Discobeat on his Bombay Connection label. Indian flavour is always present, and it puts you in a delicious trance. Melkweg, Tue 5 November, 21.30, €12.50

DISCLOSURE (LIVE) Some kids are living the dream. Take Guy (22) and Howard (19) Lawrence, who grew up in a dull London suburb listening to what must have been Chicago house and UK garage. They heard it and started making it – wrapping it up in a 21st-century coating. Disclosure fit into a rare species of British dance music artists who smash it on both sides. Melkweg, Mon 11 & Tue 12 Nov, 21.00, €17 cal input comes from experimental beat producer Arts the Beatdoctor (live) and quirky house artist Awanto 3, also known as Steven de Peven. DOKA, Fri 29 Nov, 21.00

SEDUCTION PT. 1 New York’s Veronica Vasicka started re-releasing obscure electronic new wave tracks in the early 1980s on her imprint Minimal Wave Records. Every Sunday, she broadcasts her Minimal Wave radio show on East Village radio. Listen to one of her podcasts to prepare yourself for a gorgeous night of synthesized beats and melodies. DOKA, Sat 28 Dec, 23.00, €12 crew of genre-geeks from Rotterdam and The Hague: Alden Tyrell (Clone), Intergalactic Gary (Intergalactic FM), DJ Overdose, Mark Du Mosch and David Vunk. DOKA, Fri 13 Dec, 22.00, €12

THE HAUNTED HOUSE STROMAE We didn’t have any news on the line-up when we went to print, Belgium’s Paul van Haver, or but when Multigroove throws a Stromae, scored one of Youparty you know you’ll get distortTube’s biggest 2013 hits with ed 4/4 kick beats at an incredibly ‘Papaoutai’, an amazing video high speed. Here in the Lowabout a boy who grows up lands, these rhythms are know as without his father. The accomearly rave, hardcore panying tune is a mix of African, and oldschool. hip hop and screeching EDM Pand 14, Sat 30 Nov, 22.00 sounds; a proper banger, but laidback at the same time. BORDELLO A PARIGI Melkweg, Sat 21 Dec, The Hague’s premier italo dis20.00, €15 co night Bordello A Parigi is swapping its home base PIP for AWAKENINGS FEMALE HARD TECHNO SPECIAL DOKA tonight. Expect vocoders, plenty of cheesiness and heavy Don’t expect to rave to a softer, synths played by an excellent feminine techno sound during

this special Awakenings edition – Miss Djax, Candy Cox, Daniela Haverbeck, Fatima Hajji, Fernanda Martins, Klaudia Gawias and Paula Cazenave sure know how to brutally work those decks. Let the bass kick! Gashouder, Sat 28 Dec, 22.00, €37.50 AWAKENINGS The line-up for the NYE edition of this Amsterdam techno classic seems a little random but does include a few good names. London’s Blawan turned his back on the bass scene a couple of years ago to become a techno DJ and producer. Lucky for us, his unusual career path left him with a very unique sound. Other names include Adam Beyer, Joris Voorn and The Advent (live). Gashouder, Tue 31 Dec, 20.00, €47.50 LOVELAND Whilst normally situated on the commercial end of Amsterdam’s range of club nights, Loveland has decided to take a more underground route this time around. Detroit house and techno veteran Carl Craig headlines the line-up with local house DJs Tom Trago, Secret Cinema and Dimitri Kneppers topping it off. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue 31 Dec, 21.00, €54 DOKA ROYALE DOKA will be extended by one floor for the special occasion of entering yet another celebrative year. Expect ridiculous casino artifacts in a quasi decadent atmosphere with local eclectic jocks Elias Mazian, Mr Mendel and others providing the bombastic soundtrack for a crowd of frantic gamblers. DOKA, Tue 31 Dec, 23.00, €30 FREAQSHOW Think sexy house and underground techno is boring? Need a heavy distorted bass, funny lyric lines and hoover sounds to bounce to? This Q-Dance event may be your thing. The line-up was yet to be announced when we went to print. Heineken Music Hall, Tue 31 Dec, 21.30, €60 ADDRESSES DOKA Wibautstraat 150 www.doka-amsterdam.nl Gashouder Polonceaukade 27 www.westergasfabriek.nl Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl Pand 14 Muntbergweg 14, www.p14.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6 www.paradiso.nl Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17 www.studio-80.nl Trouw Wibautstraat 131 www.trouwamsterdam.nl

nov & dec 2013

MUSIC/POPULAR & JAZZ POPULAR & JAZZ FLEX BENT BRAAM Acclaimed pianist Michiel Braam heads this jazz ensemble. They’ll be performing new compositions along with old favourites like ‘Straight, No Chaser’ and ‘Better Git It in Your Soul’. Bimhuis, Fri 1 Nov, 20.30, €18 PALMA VIOLETS They’re incredibly young, but these lads got signed to the famous Rough Trade label thanks to their rough-and-ready attitude to pop and rock’n’roll, arcing all the way back to the sassy rawness of early Stones. Melkweg, Sat 2 Nov, 19.30, €14

Holland’s most adventurous and productive, bands. Their second album, You Were the One Who Volunteered, landed in September. Paradiso, Wed 6 Nov, 20.00, €9

Choice pop & jazz

LAURA VEIRS American singer-songwriter Veirs began her professional life as a geologist but eventually traded that gig for a different sort of rocking. Veirs now has nine solo albums to her name that drift from rock to country and folk. Her latest release, Warp and Weft, landed in August. Bitterzoet, Thur 7 Nov, 20.00, €14

PATRICE ICP ORCHESTRA This Afro-German artist effortBILLY BRAGG Some of its members are getting on in the years, but the lessly mixes folk, reggae, soul and blues. Since his debut EP LiThe self-described ‘honest Instant Composers Pool can still rock and shock most of ons dropped in 1999, he’s toured songwriter’ has been penning their youthful peers under the table. You see, be it freak-out with Lauryn Hill and has earned anthems about the hazards of jazz or more classical structures, these players have an apaccolades for his raw live shows. love and politics for decades. parent mind meld that allows them to break every rule and Melkweg, Thur 7 Nov, Bragg shows no signs of quitting push every boundary while remaining on the same energetic 19.30, €13 any time soon either. His latest page. At the core is 71-year-old drummer Han Bennink, who album is titled, appropriately DWEEZIL ZAPPA PLAYS hits, kicks and slaps out rhythms mere mortals can’t imagine. enough, Tooth & Nail. ZAPPA Melkweg, Sun 3 Nov, 19.00, Bimhuis, Fri 13 & Sat 14 Dec, 20.30, €20 The son of one of rock’s most €18.50 legendary, and prolific, ecNICK CAVE & THE centrics is coming to town to BAD SEEDS perform Roxy & Elsewhere in its entirety. The iconic live album You better watch out, you better just turned 40 years young and not cry, because every Goth’s it’s considered one of Frank favourite Aussie crooner is Zappa’s high-water marks. coming to town. Along with his Melkweg, Sat 9 Nov, 19.00, €35 iconic backing band, Cave will be bringing plenty of murderous MATT SCHOFIELD tunes for all of Amsterdam’s The bluesy riffs of guitarist/ moodiest boys and ghouls. Heineken Music Hall, Mon 4 & singer Schofield have been compared to those of Eric Clapton Sun 17 Nov, 20.00, €50 and Robben Ford. Not too shabWILL.I.AM 90’S NOW FEATURING NIGHTMARES ON WAX by, eh? The Manchester native’s 2UNLIMITED Will.iam loves I amsterdam latest album is 2012’s Ten From DJ Ease’s latest moniker might – we have the photographic The Dutch Eurodance duo the Road. echo Freddy Krueger but he spins tracks that are the stuff of North Sea Jazz Club, Sat 9 Nov, behind floor-filler ‘No Limit’ proof from when he last 21.00, €20 dreams, not nightmares. Join popped over and posed are back (none of us were him as he whips together a with our letters. Be it pop fooled by the brief revival ALBERT HAMMOND sunny blend of soul, hip hop and tunes, fashion or his role engineered by their proThis British singer-songwriter electronica. on The Voice UK, The Black ducer and fronted by what penned hits in the ’70s like Melkweg, Mon 4 Nov, were effectively lip-synching Eyed Peas’ star certainly ‘It Never Rains in Southern 19.30, €17 sock puppets). They’ve sold isn’t shy, so expect this California’. Somewhere along MORCHEEBA the line, he also fathered Albert over 22 million records and arena show to be glam and The silky-sweet melodies of this Hammond Jr, the lead guitarist penned what many think of brazen, mixing up swish of The Strokes. He released his British outfit set them apart dance-pop hits with electro as the defining anthem of latest album, Legend II, in 2012. from fellow trip-hop pioneers the ‘90s. See them again in and hip hop from his various Melkweg, Tue 12 Nov, like Portishead. Original frontall their leather-clad glory – projects. Heinken Music 19.30, €30 woman Skye Edwards rejoined until 5am. Melkweg, 8 Nov, Hall, Sun 8 Dec, 20.00, Morcheeba in 2010. With their ALUNAGEORGE €39 20.00, €TBA powers combined, they’re back to slicing and dicing their way Fresh from festival performances at London Calling and Lowsingers by melding the genre’s ‘Pain’. Support comes from old through the melancholic gloom lands, AlunaGeorge bounces centuries-old traditions with emo peers Rival Schools. of the genre. through genres including contemporary rhythms. He’ll be Paradiso, Fri 15 Nov, Paradiso, Mon 4 Nov, electronica, R&B and pop. Fans joined by dancer La Lupi while 20.30, €21 20.30, €20 especially love their crossovers he performs tracks off his latest ÁSGEIR BIRDY with modern R&B acts like The album, Artesano. Weeknd and Frank Ocean. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Wed 13 Ásgeir is a young artist whose Birdy is a teenaged vocalist who Melkweg, Wed 13 Nov, Nov, 22.00, €35 first release recently became the soared to fame back in 2011 after 19.30, €13 fastest selling Icelandic debut alher cover of Bon Iver’s ‘Skinny FLY bum of all time. If Bon Iver ever Love’ captured the hearts of HIATUS KAIYOTE Jeff Ballard, the drummer for teamed up with Sigur Rós, the thousands (most importantly Erykah Badu recently professed this jazz ensemble, describes end result would probably sound those of the programmers at Fly as ‘an intimate band with like one of his dreamy ballads. BBC Radio). Since then, she’s re- her love for the innovative blend Melkweg, Sun 17 Nov, interpreted songs by Fleet Foxes, of soul, hip hop and electronica teeth’. Expect inimitable grooves 19.00, €13 The National and Phoenix, earn- that has become this Melbourne sprinkled with hip hop, funk and band’s speciality. They also some daring time signatures. ing her fans all over the world. GOGOL BORDELLO recently nabbed the Gilles PeBimhuis, Fri 15 Nov, Melkweg, Tue 5 Nov, terson Worldwide Award for 20.30, €22 Since first launching in 1999, 19.00, €24.50 Best Breakthrough Artist Of Gogol Bordello has regaled auJIMMY EAT WORLD WOODEN SAINTS The Year. diences around the world with MC Theater, Wed 13 Nov, Believe it or not, this punktheir weird and wild live shows. Arjen de Bock and Viktor van 20.30, €15 pop mainstay started out as a If you go, prepare yourself for a Woudenberg started Wooden Metallica tribute band in the night of theatrical hijinks and Saints as an ‘anything goes’ folk/ MIGUEL POVEDA ’90s. They’re now best known chaotic, gypsy punk magic. pop project in 2012. It’s quickly Poveda has become one of the for their own impossibly catchy Paradiso, Sun 17 Nov, grown into a ten-piece musical world’s most famous flamenco earworms like ‘The Middle’ and 20.30, €22 collective. Fans call them one of

DAUGHTER This hypnotic pop trio, reminscent of Laura Marling and Cat Power at times, has enjoyed a fantastic year. Their debut album, If You Leave, which mixes folk stylings with swirling postrock, has seen them perpetually on the road and stopping at bigger venues on every tour. Paradiso, Mon 18 Nov, 19.30, €17.50 THE LUMINEERS Guitarist Wesley Schultz and drummer Jeremiah Fraites head this folk-rock act from Denver, Colorado. Their rustic ditties offer a pleasantly smooth Rocky Mountain high. Heineken Music Hall, Mon 18 Nov, 20.00, €28 VAMPIRE WEEKEND Vampire Weekend began, strangely enough, as a rap collaboration between lead vocalist Ezra Koenig and drummer Chris Tomson during their university days. They eventually switched gears and jumped genres to a catchy take on wordy indie-pop. Since then, the band has topped the charts with their three studio albums. Heineken Music Hall, Tue 19 Nov, 20.00, €35 THE NAKED AND FAMOUS At least half of this New Zealand synth-pop quartet’s name is false advertising. If you’re curious which half, you’ll have to – as author Hunter S Thompson once opined – ‘buy the ticket, take the ride.’ Paradiso, Tue 19 Nov, 20.30, €22 VIEUX FARKA TOURÉ This Malian singer/guitarist is following in the footsteps of his famous father, the Grammy Award-winning Ali Farka Touré. Vieux is known for his breathtaking solos and anthems about the beauty, culture and tumultuous political climate of his native land. Bitterzoet, Tue 19 Nov, 21.00, €20 VENICE They’ve performed with everybody from Bruce Springsteen to Cher and recently wrapped up a three-year stint on Roger Waters’ epic The Wall stadium tour. Now the tireless Californian melodic rock band is on the road again with tracks from What Summer Brings, their latest album. Melkweg, Wed 20 Nov, 19.00, €29 PRIMAL SCREAM Noel Gallagher recently called Primal Scream one of the greatest bands to ever come out of the UK. If they’re not worthy of that accolade, their four-decade-long career surely makes them one of the country’s most irrepressible. Paradiso, Fri 22 Nov, 20.30, €29 OKKERVIL RIVER This Austin, Texas band dishes up a hearty helpin’ of country, rock and folk. Led by temperamental singer Will Sheff, their

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POPULAR & JAZZ live shows can be hit or miss. They released The Silver Gymnasium, their seventh full-length album, in September. Bitterzoet, Sun 24 Nov, 21.00, €15 DEAN BLUNT Blunt once served as half of Hype Williams, the electro duo that took the British underground by storm a while back. Now he creates hypnotic electronica filled with mesmerising samples and transformative beats. Bimhuis, Mon 25 Nov, 21.00, €12 QUEENS OF THE STONE AGE Over the past 17 years, Josh Homme’s Queens of the Stone Age have toured nearly every corner of the globe. They also have six studio albums under their belts and their most recent release, ...Like Clockwork, received massive amounts of critical praise and quickly topped charts after its debut this past summer. This trip also marks the desert rockers’ biggest ever show in Amsterdam. Ziggo Dome, Tue 26 Nov, 20.00, €45-€49 HAIM Three sisters + one drummer + influences ranging from Fleetwood Mac to En Vogue = ridiculously addictive pop songs. Although fresh on the scene, having only released their debut album this autumn, HAIM (which rhymes with ‘time’) is an LA-based outfit that has inspired countless fans and critics to sing into their hairbrushes while dancing in front of the nearest mirror. Melkweg, Wed 27 November, 19.00, €17.50 BLACK SABBATH The Grim Reaper must be a huge fan of these legendary rockers. There’s no other way to explain how crazed frontman Ozzy Osbourne is still above ground, let alone capable of belting out hits like ‘Iron Man’ and ‘Paranoid’. Keep an eye out for a hooded chap with a scythe parked front row centre. Ziggo Dome, Thur 28 Nov, 20.00, €59-€64 BETH HART Hart has been compared to Janis Joplin for not only her vocal chops, but for her reckless personal life as well. Her songs about love, pain and addiction have brought tears to many an eye. Paradiso, Thur 28 & Fri 29 Nov, 20.30, €28 MULATU ASTATKE After decades of toil and performances with greats like Duke Ellington, the ‘Father of Ethio-Jazz’ finally received some much-deserved international acclaim in the mid-2000s. Astatke’s music fuses Latin rhythms with jazz and the melodies of his native land. Bimhuis, Thur 28 Nov, 20.30, €22 POKEY LAFARGE The ‘old timey’ tunes of this American folk singer have ap-

ADDRESSES Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 http://bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 ROY AYERS www.bitterzoet.com He’s widely considered a legend De Duif of R&B and was one of the drivPrinsengracht 754 CUT COPY ing forces behind the creation http://deduif.home.xs4all.nl These Aussies cut, copy and of acid jazz. Now in his early Heineken Music Hall SKIP&DIE paste booty-shakin’ dance beats seventies, this renowned vibraArenA Boulevard 590 on top of Sixties-inspired rock. phonist is still touring the world It’s been a massive year for this www.heineken-music-hall.nl Free Your Mind, their latest al- and mashing up genres like most Dutch-based electro-reggae-hipMC Theater bum, is due in November. regular folk mash their potatoes. pop project fronted by the colPolonceaukade 5 Melkweg, Sun 1 Dec, 19.30, €16 North Sea Jazz Club, Sat 14 Dec, ourful Cata Pirata. As well as rewww.mconline.nl 21.00, €20 leasing a beat-grinding mash-up Melkweg HANNI EL KHATIB of a debut album, they’ve taken Lijnbaansgracht 234a JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE This LA-based singer/guitarist their freaky taste in fashion and www.melkweg.nl CONCERTGEBOUW has calmed down a bit since music to every major port of call Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ he shook the foundations of Amsterdam’s favourite swingers in Europe. Now they’re rounding Piet Heinkade 1 indie-rock with his hard-hitting have some seasonal surprises up off the year with a hometown www.muziekgebouw.nl debut album. Head in the Dirt, their sleeves tonight. As well as teardown. North Sea Jazz Club his 2013 follow-up, is lighter and teaming up with Santa for some Melkweg, Fri 20 Dec, Pazzanistraat 1 poppier but it still packs Christmas grooves and smooth 19.00, €15 www.northseajazzclub.com a wallop. tunes, they’ll be joined by guest Paradiso WHALE CITY SOUND Paradiso, Tue 3 Dec, 22.00, €9 vocalists Sabrina Starke, MathilWeteringschans 6-8 de Santing and Wouter Hamel. One of Amsterdam’s cosiest www.paradiso.nl SAVAGES Royal Concertgebouw, Tue 17 churches will host this all-male, People’s Place Savages aren’t just savage by Dec, 20.15, €21-€56 75-member show choir that Stadhouderskade 5 name. This English post-punk mixes barbershop harmonies www.peoplesplaceamsterdam.nl TRICKY outfit already has a long list of with the hits of the ’50s and Royal Concertgebouw exceptional reviews to its name For over two decades, Tricky has ’60s. And just how are they Concertgebouwplein 10, and its debut album is intense- served as one of trip hop and hip going to fit all of those blokes in www.concertgebouw.nl ly choreographed. For once, hop’s hardest to define figures. there? You’ll have go and find Ziggo Dome common comparisons to Joy His latest release, False Idols, out for yourself. ArenA boulevard 61 Division and Siouxsie and the meanders from rap to rock to De Duif, Sat 21 Dec, 15.00 and www.ziggodome.nl Banshees are utterly justified. funk with pit stops in a few other 20.00, €20 Paradiso, Tue 3 Dec, 19.30, €16 genres along the way. DAVID KWEKSILBER Melkweg, Wed 18 December, TRAVIS BIG BAND 19.30, €25 Named after a character in the CLASSICAL This big band is an innovative NO BLUES film Paris, Texas, Travis is a ensemble noted for its rich THE CLASSICAL PROMS highly melodic Scottish alt-rock This ensemble is comprised of sound, energy and enthusiasm. band that helped pave the way musicians from the NetherLed by saxophonist David KwekClassical music meets popular for Coldplay and Keane thanks lands and around the world. silber, they mix the old with the culture in The Classical PROMS. to tracks like ‘Why Does It AlNo Kind of Blues, their most new and jump around on the The Bach Choir and Orchestra ways Rain On Me?’ recent album, mixes strings and conventions of classical music of the Netherlands are joined Paradiso, Thur 5 Dec, spoken-word poetry with their like schoolgirls bouncing on a by a host of top soloists (such as 20.30, €25 trademark ‘Arabicana’ sound. hopscotch board. pianist Cor Bakker) and vocalists Paradiso, Thur 19 Dec, Bimhuis, Sat 28 Dec, to revisit some of the grandest PLACEBO 20.30, €10 20.30, €22 and most popular classical moDavid Bowie helped catapult ments through to well-known Placebo to fame in the mid-’90s. film soundtracks and pop songs. Much like their glammy godfaConcertgebouw, Sun 3 Nov ther, they combine androgynous (19.30) & Fri 8 Nov (20.15), imagery with catchy riffs on hits €50-€75 like ‘Nancy Boy’ and ‘Because I ENSEMBLE KLANG Want You’. Ziggo Dome, Sun 8 Dec, Expect a beautifully textured 20.00, €36-€45 performance of Heiner Goebbels’ Walden. Written in 1998, DUM DUM GIRLS Ensemble Klang have made this Their name is a double-dipping work their own over the past tribute to Iggy Pop and The year or so, creating a beautiful, Vaselines but Dum Dum Girls’ exotic and abstract journey that bubble-gum rock songs are far interlaces the acoustic with lighter than those of their edgier strange samples and soundmuses. Tracks like ‘Bedroom scapes. Eyes’ will also stick in your head Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue 5 like a gooey wad of Orbitz. Nov, 20.15, €27 Paradiso, Tue 10 Dec, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW CONCERTGEBOUW LUNCHTIME CONCERTS 20.00, €11 ORCHESTRA’S BIRTHDAY CHRISTMAS MATINEE Who said there’s no such thing DELTRON 3030 as a free lunch (concert)? The The Christmas concert at the CONCERT Deltron 3030 has been stuck Concertgebouw lunchtime On 3 November 1888 Royal Concertgebouw is an in time since their 2000 debut concerts are exactly that, showannual tradition and this year the Royal Concertgealbum catapulted listeners to casing everything from young, bouw Orchestra made its it will draw to a close the the 31st century. Now the hip upcoming talent to chamber first public appearance. grand venue and its Royal hop supergroup, which features music and public rehearsals by Concertgebouw Orchestra’s Precisely 125 years later Del the Funky Homosapien, Kid the Royal Concertgebouw OrKoala and Dan the Automator, is chestra. It’s advisable to show up 125th jubilee celebrations. So they’ll celebrate with this back from the future with Event at least half an hour in advance special anniversary concert head along after lunch and 2, the much anticipated 2013 to guarantee entry. join the party. Led by Andris featuring Richard Strauss’ follow-up. Concertgebouw, every Wed, Nelsons, the orchestra will re- Ein Heldenleben and the Melkweg, Wed 11 Dec, 12.30, free visit two compositional greats world premiere of their 20.00, €20 from their history: by Richard new birthday gift: Louis CLASSICS IN THE CITY LIGHT OF DAY TOUR 2013 ARCHIVES Wagner and Richard Strauss. Andriessen’s Mysteriën. Now in its 13th year, this annual As part of a new monthly Concertgebouw, Sun 3 Concertgebouw, Wed 25 concert series has raised milconcert season, international Nov, 14.15, €30-€120 Dec, 15.00, €22.50-€95 lions of dollars for Parkinson’s musicians will perform inside research. The 2013 European this monumental building that’s peared on TV show Boardwalk Empire and radio programme A Prairie Home Companion. His seventh record as a bandleader also hit store shelves earlier this year. People’s Place, Fri 29 Nov, 19.30, €16.50

edition features musicians Joe D’Urso, Jesse Malin and Guy Davis. Paradiso, Thur 12 Dec, 20.00, €20

INSOMNIO Dutch ensemble Insomnio features players from around the world and specialises in exciting contemporary classical music. But on this tour they’re tackling the highlights of Frank Zappa’s The Yellow Shark. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 20 Dec, 20.30, €27

Choice classical

nov & dec 2013

MUSIC/CLASSICAL home to the City Archives. In November it’s Ukrainian pianist Marina Baranova; in December it’s Alina and Dmitri Wesselowski. Amsterdam City Archives, Fri 8 Nov & Fri 6 Dec, 17.30, €TBA

takably atmospheric chansons. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue 26 Nov, 19.30, €38

Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 13 Dec, 20.15, €35

Choice classical

CHRISTMAS CONCERT AMSTERDAMSE CELLO The ever-expressive Pieter Jan BIËNNALE 2014 Leusink, pianist Cor Bakker and Cello fans who’re feeling withVocal Group CALL will team up drawal symptoms can reconvene for two magical nights of ChristAMSTERDAM S this evening to enjoy a sampler mas classics and choral majesty. INFONIETTA of the great musicians and Concertgebouw, Sat 14 & Fri 20 Top cellist Steven Isserlis joins innovative cello music that will Dec, 20.15, €50-€75 the local string players for a ba- form part of next autumn’s cello WEIHNACHTSORATORIUM roque feast that includes festival in Amsterdam. Biber’s Battalia. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 29 The Combattimento Consort Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue 12 Nov, 20.15, €33 Amsterdam and Nederlands Nov, 20.15, €35 Kamerkoor team up for two CARTE BLANCHE performances of Bach’s ultimate PEKKA KUUSISTO BERNARD HAITINK interpretation of the Christmas With the Royal Concertgebouw Back in 1992, Yo-Yo Ma was the story. celebrating its 125th jubilee first star to receive the Carte Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Mon 16 throughout 2013, its ongoing Blanche treatment in the Con& Sun 22 Dec, 19.30, €44 thematic journey has been recertgebouw. Two decades later, LE MYSTÈRE DES VOIX visiting the music and moments the privilege falls upon Bernard BULGARES BANG ON A CAN ALL-STARS + LEE RANALDO from its grand past. This month Haitink, one of the greatest the theme touches upon the servants of the Royal ConcertgeThis Grammy Award-winning New York City ensemble Bang on a Can is one of the 1990s and the influence of the bouw Orchestra. Still a regular choir has maintained its exotic most recognisable contemporary music outlets, both international music scene. Thus, in the city, he’ll return once more allure over the decades thanks in terms of their performances and curated festivals special guest is Finnish violin for performances of two of his to its amazing vocal acrobatics and also their acclaimed recorded output (their take on virtuoso Pekka Kuusisto and favourite works: Brahms’ Violin and interpretations of Bulgarian Brian Eno’s Music for Airports from 1998 is a notable The Luomu Players, performing Concerto in D and his Second folk music and beyond. Tonight minimalist highlight). On this visit to Amsterdam, the some Bach, as well as Finnish Symphony in D. the colourfully clad singers will folk music and improvised Concertgebouw, Fri 29 Nov, bring a seasonal twist to their All-Stars are bringing another experimental hero from moments. 20.15, €42.75-€114 fascinating melodies. NYC – Lee Ranaldo of (the currently sleeping) Sonic Concertgebouw, Wed 13 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sun 15 Youth – for a programme titled Field Recordings. RHYTHMS OF KOREA 20.15, €45 Dec, 20.15, €29.50 Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 8 Nov, 20.30, €27 Colourful and expressive, the MESSIAH JANINE JANSEN South Korean percussion and Händel’s masterwork as perdance ensemble SamulNori International violin star Janine formed by the KCOV AmsterHanullim have taken their visual Jansen regularly dazzles audiENGLISH MUSIC FOR dam (one of the largest oratorio and rhythmic spectacle to ences in Amsterdam. This spethis matinee performance titled CHRISTMAS choirs in the Netherlands) and theatres all over the globe in cial performance sees her joined Jesus is Coming, some seasonal Het Promenade Orkest. Each recent years. by a group of talented string The boys and young men of the classics will be unleashed, as well year they return to this stunning Concertgebouw, Sun 1 Dec, players for four of her favourite as sing-a-long moments and huChoir of St John’s College are concert hall to create a majestic 14.15, €25 Bach concertos. renowned for their choral splen- mour – and undoubtedly some wall of choral and orchestral Concertgebouw, Sun 15 Dec, glühwein cooking in the corner. dour. They’ll sing the audience NETHERLANDS PHILHARharmony. 20.15, €34-€90 Paradiso, Thur 26 Dec, along on a journey that begins MONIC ORCHESTRA Concertgebouw, Sat 16 Nov, 16.00, €22.50 in the 16th century, all the way CHOIR OF THE NEW 19.30, €29.75-€35 Christoph Poppen conducts and through to popular modern-day COLLEGE OXFORD PAN10 Alexander Sitkovetsky guests for hymns and songs. CARMINA BURANA some spicy Spanish flavouring Performing such spiritual moAs the year draws to a close, it’s Concertgebouw, Sun 22 Dec, Splash on some Old Spice and via Mendelssohn’s ‘Ruy Blas’ ments as ‘Holly and Ivy’ and something of an annual tradition 11.00, €19-€25 be dazzled by Carl Orff ’s voluOverture and Third Symphony, ‘The Three Kings’, this renowned for the players of the Calefax THE ROYAL WIND MUSIC minous and raging Carmina and E Lalo’s Symphonie esEnglish boys’ choir was estabReed Quintet to team up with Burana, performed by the pagnole. lished in 1379 and remains a special guests – both musicians The 13 members of this interNew Romanian Symphonic OrConcertgebouw, Sat 7 Dec specialist of choral serenity. from outside of the classical nationally minded ensemble chestra and Choir. (20.15) & Sun 8 Dec (14.15), Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Wed 18 perform an array of Renaissance sphere and local artists. The Concertgebouw, Sun 17 (14.15, €18-€48 Dec, 19.30, €27 recorders, ranging in size from results are always surprising and 20.15) & Mon 18 Nov (20.15), respectably adventurous. 12 inches to ten feet. This afCONCERTGEBOUW AN EXOTIC CHRISTMAS €59-€69 Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sat 28 ternoon’s programme is titled CLASSICS Some seasonal spirit with a Dec, 19.30, €14 Peaceful mind, joyful heart. OPERA PER TUTTI Celebrate Christmas with a difference. Ensemble grainDe Duif, Sun 22 Dec, KAMERMUZIEKFESTIVAL Regular opera sessions in the stylish night out with a loved delavoix performs Hanelle’s Cyp15.00, €17.50 AMSTERDAM beautiful Vondelkerk. Each perone. The Netherlands Philharriot Christmas Oratorio, which MESSIAH formance typically includes five monic Orchestra performs wellmixes in excerpts from Greek Three days of chamber music or six operatic fragments or arias known Christmas classics and manuscripts and the rich vocal performances in one of AmsterThe seasonal performances of – some you’ll know inside out, carols by the likes of Tchaikovsky traditions from Cyprus in the dam’s historic churches. Händel’s Messiah by the Nedothers may be new to you. and Strauss. Middle Ages. Amstelkerk, Sun 29 Dec-Wed 1 erlandse Händelvereniging are Vondelkerk, Thur 21 Nov Concertgebouw, Tue 10 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, Thur 19 Jan, various times & prices renowned as one of the choral (20.15), Thur 19 Dec (20.15), Sun 20.30, €35-€95 Dec, 20.15, €27-€42 highlights of any year. 22 Dec (15.00), €10-€20 Concertgebouw, Mon 23 Dec, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW DOCENT MENAHEM ADRESSES 20.00, €40-€42 NEDPHO UNPLUGGED ORCHESTRA PRESSLER & LUCAS JUSSEN Amstelkerk LAVINIA MEIJER Members of the Netherlands World-class tenor Ian Bostridge Pianist Menahem Pressler is a Amstelveld 10 Chamber Orchestra are joined guests, while Andris Nelsons renowned teacher, paving the www.stadsherstel.nl Dutch harpist Meijer has been by soprano Laetitia Gerards conducts. The performances way for new talents to emerge. Amsterdam City Archives enjoying more and more interfor works by DvoÐák, Menotti, include Debussy’s Six épigraphes Here he teams up with young Vijzelstraat 32 national acclaim, most recently Gershwin, Strauss and Brahms. antiques, Britten’s Les illumimusicians and rising stars for www.stadsarchief. thanks to her interpretations The ensemble will perform unnations and Rachmaninoff ’s performances of Mozart’s 12th amsterdam.nl of favourites by Philip Glass. A plugged, on the floor of Paradiso, Symphonic Dances. Piano Concerto and Schumann’s De Duif regular in Dutch concert halls with the audience seated snugly Concertgebouw, Thur 12 & Fri Piano Quintet. Prinsengracht 754 throughout 2013, she’s now around them. 13 Dec, 20.15, €22.50-€85 Concertgebouw, Fri 20 Dec, http://deduif.home.xs4all.nl taking to a more traditional pop Paradiso, Mon 25 Nov, 20.15, 20.15, €45 Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ music space, performing two AMSTERDAM €13.50-€25 Piet Heinkade 1 40-minute sets. SINFONIETTA NETHERLANDS PHILHARwww.muziekgebouw.nl Paradiso, Tue 24 Dec, ANNE SOFIE VON OTTER MONIC ORCHESTRA A touch of modern and a dash Paradiso 20.30, €18 World famous mezzo-soprano of classical contemporary this Clemens Schuldt conducts and Weteringschans 6-8 PARADISO ORCHESTRA Anne Sofie von Otter recently evening. The world premiere soprano Elizabeth Watts joins www.paradiso.nl released an album dedicated to of David Matthews’s Double for an especially festive proRoyal Concertgebouw Comprised of top players from French vocal classics. Accompa- Concerto for Violin and Viola is gramme that includes famous Concertgebouwplein 10 the city’s classical scene, the nied by pianist Bengt Forsberg juxtaposed with Mendelssohn’s ballet and opera excerpts, waltz- Paradiso Orchestra has built up www.concertgebouw.nl and accordionist Bengan Janson, Piano Concert in A and Schönes and polkas. Vondelkerk a reputation for its enticing but she’ll sing a variety of music berg’s Verklärte Nacht (arranged Concertgebouw, Sat 21 Dec, Vondelstraat 120 more informal performances in from Debussy to those unmisfor string orchestra). 20.15, €18-€48 www.vondelkerk.nl this historic pop temple. During

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at home in Amsterdam: Erasmus Thanks to Neel Korteweg paintings and drawings Bijbelsmuseum Biblical Museum, Cromhouthouses (17th century), Herengracht 366-368. Up till and including February 16th, 2014 www.bijbelsmuseum.nl

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nov & dec 2013

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS MEMYMOM: THE UMBILICAL VEIN Photographer Marilène Coolens presents an intimate exhibition of works chronicling her relationship with her daughter, Lisa De Boeck. Coolens began photographing Lisa at the age of five in their home in Brussels and has accumulated a huge series of portraits tracking Lisa’s childhood and young adulthood, offering a glimpse into her life. De Brakke Grond, until 3 Nov

what a day in the former Dutch East Indies looked like more than a century ago, during the days of Dutch colonial rule. Forgács uses found footage and artefacts to introduce the mostly European elite that made up the Indo-Euro colonial culture. Addressing a period from the early 1900s through to World War II, the exhibition offers a fascinating peek into the complex colonial social structure with depictions of daily life including birthdays, outings, schools and employee life. EYE Filmmuseum, until 1 Dec

THE REDISCOVERY OF THE WORLD STILLS BY JOYCE ENNIK The recently extended photograRunning alongside a film prophy museum hosts an exhibition gramme featuring works from the enormous Ennik family film devoted to exploring the artistic value of photography in the collection, EYE presents eight modern age. In a world where large stills in the museum foyer. The daughter of the family, Joyce anyone can snap a photo with their phone and distribute it Ennik, created these images from her father’s film collection globally via social media, The Rediscovery of the World examines using a 19th-century photothe value of more traditional graphic printing process called forms of the medium. This gum dichromate. exhibition is the first to utilise EYE Filmmuseum, until 3 Nov the museum’s new extension, CRISTINA DE MIDDEL – realised after Huis Marseille THE AFRONAUTS purchased and renovated the neighbouring property. The failed African attempt to Huis Marseille, until 8 Dec join the space race in the 1960s was the inspiration for this 2012 LEE FRIEDLANDER: project by Cristina de Middel. AMERICA BY CAR The Spanish photographer recreates the story using staged Photography exhibition devoted to the automobile – as synonyphotographs, copies of letters, mous with the States as apple reproductions of vintage photopie and Johnny Depp. graphs and a healthy dose of her America By Car features works own imagination. by photographer Lee FriedFoam, until 10 Nov lander drawn from two earlier ESCHER MEETS ISLAMIC ART projects; each explores the evolution of the US’s ongoing Examining the more obscure influences on Dutch artist MC love affair with the car in images that range from the grim to the Escher. Even his biggest fans humorously ironic. may be surprised to learn that Foam, until 11 Dec works by several Islamic painters helped inspire Escher during his FRAMED IN PRINT: much-celebrated career. 40 YEARS OF DUTCH Tropenmuseum, until 13 Nov MAGAZINE PHOTOGRAPHY HOLLAND AT ITS HARDEST! Ambitious exhibition offering an overview of the best photographs An intriguing photographic journey into the ‘gabber’ hard- featured in major Dutch periodicore house music subculture that cals over the past four decades. A variety of shots invites viewers on swept the Netherlands in the Nineties, this exhibition features a trip down memory lane, prowork by Dennis Duijnhouwer, viding an insight into how magaRyan Cookson, Erik Smits and zine pictorials in the Netherlands have changed since the 1970s. Esteban Gonzalez. Instantly Foam, until 11 Dec recognisable by their shaved heads, tracksuits and trainers, PETER PUKLUS: HANDBOOK members of this subculture TO THE STARS fervently practiced an energetic The work of this Hungarian dance known as ‘hakken’. While documentary photographer the gabber lifestyle had to roll reveals the importance and with the punches once it hit the beauty locked away inside mainstream, it never completely everyday objects. died out and nowadays even has Foam, until 13 Dec a burgeoning following as far away as Melbourne, Australia. ANH TUAN Melkweg, until 17 Nov Exhibition of work by VietnamLEATHER DESIGN PRIZE ese/Hungarian designer Anh Tuan, acclaimed for his luxury Featuring extraordinary works multitextured bags combining submitted for the 6th edition of both traditional and contempothe Hester van Eeghen Leather rary techniques. Design Prize, founded in order Museum of Bags & Purses, to preserve the craft and stimu19 Nov-20 Jan late the trade in the Netherlands. Museum of Bags & Purses, LTART.NL until 24 November This annual event provides a PÉTER FORGÁCS – platform for Lithuanian, Dutch LOOMING FIRE and expat artists to display their artistic wares. All forms of art Hungarian filmmaker Péter are welcome so expect a lively Forgács reminds audiences of

blend of paintings, sculpture, photography, ceramics and jewellery alongside music ranging from jazz to classical and folk. Traditional Lithuanian food will help fuel the cultural activity. Posthoornkerk, 23 & 24 Nov AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND This citywide primarily gallery-based event returns to offer art enthusiasts the chance to delve into Amsterdam’s vibrant contemporary art scene. More than 30 galleries dotted around the city throw open their

REMBRANDT: ALL HIS PAINTINGS This major exhibition brings all 325 of Rembrandt’s paintings together in one place for the first time, as high-quality reproductions. Using the latest techniques, every single work attributed to Rembrandt has been digitally reproduced to scale with accompanying explanations providing an unrivalled insight into Rembrandt’s artistic development. Magna Plaza, until 31 Dec

Choice exhibits

CHARLOTTE DUMAS, ANIMA, 2012. COURTESY THE ARTIST & GALERIE PAUL ANDRIESSE

CHAMBRE DES CANAUX: THE TOLERANT HOME Twenty iconic Amsterdam canal-side properties exhibit the very best of the international art scene including work by Marlene Dumas, Atelier Van Lieshout, Guido van der Werve and Fiona Tan. Chambre des Canaux shines the spotlight on two related themes: the renowned tolerant nature of Amsterdam and the initial development of the Canal Ring, 400 years ago this year. See page 22. Various Canal Ring locations, 1-17 Nov doors and organise special programmes and exhibitions while big-hitters including the Stedelijk Museum, Foam and the EYE Filmmuseum also get in on the action. Organisers Capital A are putting together maps detailing several tours taking in participating locations. Various locations, www.capital a.nl. 29 Nov-1 Dec AGA 55 YEARS The Amsterdams Grafisch Atelier (AGA) was founded in 1958. It is the oldest graphic studio in the Netherlands, intended to facilitate Amsterdam-based artists who could not afford their own studio. The 55th anniversary is celebrated with a festive programme in the Kolenkit neighbourhood, which is bursting with creative development. Amsterdams Grafisch Atelier, De Roos van Dekamaweg 7, http://amsterdamsgrafisch atelier.nl ART IN REDLIGHT Between shopping the sales and spreading holiday cheer, don’t miss the ninth edition of this art fair with visual art, design, dance, video, light installations and music. It’s set to feature established and up-and-coming artists while a range of events and debates completes the action. Beurs van Berlage, http://artin redlight.com. 26-30 Dec

contributions to the world of conceptual art in the 1960s. Featuring 300 drawings completed by Weiner over the course of 50 years, Written on the Wind takes visitors on a trip through Weiner’s career, offering them a glimpse at the gradual evolution of his style. See page 28. Stedelijk Museum, until 5 Jan NEW LIGHT ON HUNDERTWASSER Presenting the early and perhaps somewhat forgotten Hundertwasser. In the late 1950s and early 1960s, Hundertwasser lived in Japan, where he studied Zen Buddhism and applied its philosophy to his work. This early work is characterised by endless circular and twisted lines and horror vacui. For Hundertwasser, the straight line was ‘godless’. Cobra Musuem, until 5 Jan VAN GOGH AT WORK This far-reaching exhibition is the culmination of seven years of fastidious research into Vincent van Gogh’s oeuvre and development as an artist. More than 200 paintings, works on paper, sketchbooks and letters by Van Gogh and his peers offer new insights into the fascinating creative processes behind the artist’s paintings and drawings. Van Gogh Museum, until 13 Jan

SUSPENDED HISTORIES Modern art exhibition exploring the relationship between the Dutch East India Company and the Van Loon family across the 17th and 18th centuries. With featured artists all hailing from the exotic locales the Netherlands traded with centuries ago, each work shines ETERNAL EGYPT a light on the history of Dutch EXPERIENCE trading and the Van Loon’s legacy while also reflecting More than just an exhibition, the Eternal Egypt Experience invites their creators’ backgrounds and nations of origin. visitors on a multimedia journey Museum van Loon, of discovery into the vast history until 20 Jan of Ancient Egypt. At the heart of the experience is Culturama, PRIX DE ROME 2013 an impressive multimedia show featuring nine one-metre-high De Appel proudly presents work by the four artists nominated screens offering a 180-degree for this year’s prestigious Prix panoramic view of proceedings. de Rome art prize: Christian Major exhibits from the museFriedrich, Falke Pisano, Remco um’s own Egyptian collection Torenbosch and Ola Vasiljeva. will be on display including a Following adjudication by the mummy, beautifully painted sarcophagi, reliefs and sophisti- international jury, the winner of the Prix de Rome 2013 will be cated bronzes. announced on 5 November. Allard Pierson Museum, De Appel arts centre, until 5 Jan until 26 Jan MONDRIAN IN AMSTERDAM PAULINA OŁOWSKA: AU 1892-1912 BONHEUR DES DAMES Mondrian, one of the earliest Featuring boundary-defying members of the Dutch ‘De Stijl’ pieces that combine collages, movement, returns home to Amdrawings, media and even sterdam. Featuring more than neon lights, this is the first 60 works, this exhibition showexhibition by Polish artist cases some of the Dutch artist’s lesser-known paintings, prints Paulina Ołowska to be organised in the Netherlands. Ołowska is and drawings, produced during considered by many to be one his time in Amsterdam between of the most fascinating artists 1892 and 1912. of her generation. Her works Amsterdam Museum, borrow images from Eastern until 5 Jan European and American pop LAWRENCE WEINER: WRITculture in order to explore TEN ON THE WIND the concepts of feminism, consumerism and design. A sweeping exhibition of work Stedelijk Museum, by American artist Lawrence until 27 Jan Weiner – best known for his

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS MING: EMPERORS, ARTISTS the entire museum and includes & MERCHANTS IN photos shot by Klein in New ANCIENT CHINA York, Rome, Moscow and Tokyo Journey on a breathtaking odys- as well as examples of his innovative fashion photography. sey into China’s distant past with Foam, 20 Dec-12 Mar 2014 this exhibition dedicated to one of the country’s most illustrious THE DARK CHAPTER dynasties. In collaboration with Family-oriented exhibition China’s Nanjing Museum, the church offers visitors a glimpse looking at the history of the slave trade from a maritime perspecof an exclusive collection of tive, focusing on the dramatic original Ming-era artefacts that story of a slave ship called the include calligraphies, porcelain Leusden – a boat which sank crafts and luxury items originally without a trace in Suriname in designed for the Imperial Court. 1738 with many slaves on board. De Nieuwe Kerk, Until 2 Feb Het Scheepvaartmuseum, SHTETL IN THE CITY until 31 Aug Subtitled ‘Antwerp Through XYZ SHAPING FREE the Lens of Dan Zollmann’, this DIMENSIONS photography exhibition displays Straddling the boundaries of the results of the Belgian snapart and design, this innovaper’s quest to capture the life tive exhibition delves into the and times of the Hasidic Jews groundbreaking 3D printing in his home city. Zollmann’s scene. Enter a futuristic world prize-winning photographs populated by unique 3D printed provide a unique insight into the predominately hidden social objects, displayed alongside vintage design and antique art. environment of the followers of CNCPT13, ongoing this devout branch of Judaism. Jewish Historical Museum, until 2 Feb

PERMANENT

ATLAS DER NEEDERLANDEN EXHIBITIONS Part of celebrations to mark the ANNE FRANK HOUSE second centenary of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, this exPrinsengracht 263 is where hibition focuses on the 600-map Anne Frank lived in hiding with strong Atlas der Neederlanden her family for more than two to examine how the Netherlands years during World War II. Now grew into the country it is today. converted into a museum, it conUniversity of Amsterdam tains a sobering exhibition about Special Collections, the persecution of the Jews and until 9 Feb persecution in a wider context.

Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 http://amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org De Appel arts centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 www.arcam.nl Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Brakke Grond MALEVICH, BATHERS SEEN Nes 45 FROM THE BACK www.brakkegrond.nl CNCPT13 KAZIMIR MALEVICH & THE Prinsengracht 266 RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE www.cncpt13.com A major survey exhibition of Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 work by Russian artist Kazimir Amstelveen Malevich, one of the founding www.cobra-museum.nl fathers of abstract art. Best EYE Film Museum known for his pure abstract IJpromenade 1 work, Malevich drew inspiwww.eyefilm.nl ration from a wide range of Foam artistic trends. The exhibition Keizersgracht 609 http://foam.org uses oil paintings, watercol&Foam ours, drawings and sculptures Vijzelstraat 78 to illustrate the rich variety http://foam.org/andfoam of styles and disciplines in his Geelvinck Hinlopen House oeuvre – from the thin brushKeizersgracht 633 strokes of impressionism to http://geelvinck.nl cubism. Stedelijk Museum, Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 until 2 Feb 2014 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) still in use by the Dutch royal Herengracht 386 family. It is used for state visits, http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl award ceremonies and other offiHermitage Amsterdam cial receptions. When the palace Amstel 51 is not being used by the royal www.hermitage.nl family, it is open to the public. Hortus Botanicus Visitors can explore the magnifPlantage Middenlaan 2a icent interior and discover the http://dehortus.nl rich history of the building. Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 STEDELIJK MUSEUM www.huismarseille.nl The museum’s permanent colJewish Historical Museum lection is now on display in the Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 beautifully restored historical www.jhm.nl building, with fixed spots for Museum Van Loon highlights such as ‘The Beanery’ Keizersgracht 672 by Edward Kienholz and works www.museumvanloon.nl by Willem de Kooning and Andy De Nieuwe Kerk Warhol. Half of the ground floor Dam square is reserved for the best pieces www.nieuwekerk.nl from the design collection. Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) TROPENMUSEUM Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ www.opsolder.nl has eight geographically themed Rembrandthuis permanent exhibitions and an Jodenbreestraat 4 ongoing series of temporary www.rembrandthuis.nl presentations, including both Rijksmuseum modern and traditional visual Jan Luijkenstraat 1 arts and photographic work. www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Dam square MUSEUM www.paleisamsterdam.nl The only completely period furHet Scheepvaartmuseum nished canal-side house in Am- (National Maritime Musuem) sterdam open daily to the public, Kattenburgerplein 1 with a remarkable collection of www.hetscheepvaart Golden Age art and silverware. museum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 ADDRESSES http://stedelijk.nl Allard Pierson Museum Tropenmuseum Oude Turfmarkt 127 Linnaeusstraat 2 www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl www.tropenmuseum.nl Amsterdam City Archives UvA Special Collections Vijzelstraat 32 Oude Turfmarkt 129 http://stadsarchief. www.bijzonderecollecties.uva.nl amsterdam.nl Willet-Holthuysen Amsterdam Expo Museum Gustav Mahlerlaan 24 Herengracht 605 www.amsterdamexpo.nl www.willetholthuysen.nl

Choice exhibits

COURTESY RMS TITANIC INC

TITANIC: THE ARTIFACT EXHIBITION This spellbinding exhibition devoted to the ‘unsinkable ship’ promises to take visitors back in time with authentic artefacts from the doomed cruise liner that sailed into history on a fateful night in April of 1912. The exhibition features many items retrieved during expeditions to the Titanic’s wreck site at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. They include clothing, jewellery and even personal letters. Amsterdam Expo, from 14 Nov

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canal house attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

GAUGUIN, BONNARD, EYE FILM MUSEUM DENIS: A RUSSIAN TASTE Cinematography museum home FOR FRENCH ART to an internationally renowned The Hermitage Amsterdam collection of films covering the turns its attention to three major whole history of cinema, from late 19th- and early 20th-century the first silent movies to the latartists. Paul Gauguin was a shin- est contemporary productions. REMBRANDTHUIS ing example for Pierre Bonnard GEELVINCK HINLOPEN and Maurice Denis, who were The house that Rembrandt HOUSE united with other artists under called home for nearly 20 years the title ‘Les Nabis’. This extenA decadent canal-side mansion boasts an impressive collection sive exhibition displays the work showcasing 17th-century paof drawings and paintings by of the Nabis artists alongside trician wealth, located on the the Old Master himself as well paintings and drawings by their Golden Bend of the grandest as by his contemporaries. The predecessors, contemporaries canal of all, the Herengracht. Rembrandthuis is also home to and immediate successors. Also Highlights include ornamental 290 of Rembrandt’s etchings – a look out for The Modernists and gardens as well as sumptuous near complete collection – and More, a sub-exhibition featuring themed salons. an alternating selection is on photographs taken by Laurence permanent display. HET GRACHTENHUIS Aëgerter during the previous (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) RIJKSMUSEUM Matisse to Malevich exhibition at the museum. See page 25. A tribute to the Canal District, After a decade of unprecedented Hermitage Amsterdam, with multimedia exhibitits showrenovation, the Rijksmuseum until 28 Feb ing how the engineering marvel finally showed off its new (and was built on swampland during old) look in April 2013. Visit PARIS! PARIS! the 17th-century expansion. the state museum and embark Quirky exhibition devoted to on a journey through Dutch art HORTUS BOTANICUS wonderfully designed advertisand history from the Middle ing fans from the City of Light. For nearly four centuries, AmAges and Renaissance right up Created between 1900 and 1940, sterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has until the 20th century. Not to the fans were once used to proregaled visitors with its lush be missed. mote Parisian cafes, casinos and greenhouses and exotic plants. HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM an assortment of luxury brands. Originally founded in 1638 to (NATIONAL MARITIME Museum of Bags and Purses, serve as a herb garden for the MUSEUM) until 2 Mar city’s doctors and pharmacists, it’s one of the oldest botanical The National Maritime MuseWILLIAM KLEIN gardens in the world. um comprises a series of small Foam rounds off another jamexhibitions exploring various elMUSEUM VAN LOON packed year of photography ements of maritime life through with a retrospective exhibition The Van Loons belonged to history. Moored outside is the of works by this legendary phothe city’s governing elite, and Amsterdam, an exact replica of a tographer, cinematographer and were among the founders of the famous Dutch East India designer. With a career spanning mighty Dutch East India ComCompany ship. more than 60 years, Klein’s work pany back in 1602. With much ROYAL PALACE had a tremendous influence on of its original interior intact, the photography in the second half museum collection comprises The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal of the 20th century. This enorpaintings, antique furnishings Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam mous exhibition sprawls over and objects d’art. Square is one of three palaces

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PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY COMEDY: THE SEVEN DEADLY DUTCH SINS As Boom Chicago celebrates its 20th year, the comedy troupe has unleashed a brand new show. As they note: ‘We’ve been living and working here, observing, interpreting and gathering material for 20 years. Now we get into the national psyche and make fun of things you never noticed, or never questioned.’ Along the way they touch on Dutch birthdays, weddings, the Royals, the health service and more. Boom Chicago, every Thur, 20.30; every Sat, 20.00 (times subject to change), €8-€12 COMEDY: EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hioctane, completely improvised show at the recently renovated Crea Café every Friday night. There’s also an early-bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats and open podiums. Crea Café, every Fri, 20.00, 21.00, €5-€10 COMEDY: SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. Boom Chicago, every Sat, 22.30, €14 DANCE: GHOST TRACK In this unique encounter between European and Asian dance and music, artists from Indonesia are brought together with their Western counterparts. Sometimes their styles mesh; sometimes they clash. The dancers are accompanied by the Indonesian composer Iwan Gunawan and his gamelan ensemble, blending the serene and hypnotic Indonesian music with unconventional instruments, electronics and Western music styles such as jazz and ambient. Theater Bellevue, Fri 1-Sun 3 Nov, 20.00, €20 INTERNATIONAL STORYTELLING FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Tall tales, beautiful stories, old legends and touching recitals will all make an appearance at this year’s festival. Celebrating its sixth year in 2013, the ISFA has built up a solid name providing a stage for the best of the Dutch and international storytellers. Various locations, www.story tellingfestival.nl. Fri 1-Sun 10 Nov, various times & prices OPERA: BOOM! AMSTERDAM IS AN OPERA Until February 2014, De Nederlandse Opera is

challenging everyone to think about the future of the Earth and its natural environment. So at surprising locations throughout Amsterdam you can hear compelling recitations of unique musical works and one-minute operas – often specially composed for this project. Keep an eye on www.amsterdamiseenopera.nl for details. Het Muziektheater, Sat 2 & Sun 3 Nov; then various locations, dates & times DANCE: DON QUICHOT

white light dancing out of the of Nederlands Dans Theater smoke and chaos, creating a 1 (NDT1) showcase the work rock concert vibe from a dance of JiÐí Kylián. It features performance. different works created between Stadsschouwburg, Tue 5 Nov, 2000 and 2008: a defining 20.30, €10-€37.50 period in the oeuvre of Kylián. His creations and style will DANCE: WAR & PEACE: always be of immense relevance FROM DAKAR TO and influence on the company, AMSTERDAM of which he was resident This co-production between choreographer until 2009. Dutch dance group Don’t Hit Het Muziektheater, Sat 9 Nov Mama and the Senegalese (20.15), Sun 10 Nov (14.00), L’École des Sables of acclaimed €15-€48 choreographer Germaine COMEDY: RUSSELL BRAND Acogny results in a vibrant combination of hip hop and The notorious Russell Brand may be many things but dull isn’t one of them. The former Mr Katy Perry will bring his unique brand of pathos, tongue-twisting witticisms and blasts of outlandish comedy to Amsterdam as a guest of MTV. Heineken Music Hall, Sat 9 Nov, 20.00, €37.50-€42.50

Highlight theatre

COMEDY: DELETE ZWARTE PIET NIET Boom Chicago and one of its most renowned comics Greg Shapiro have never been shy about poking fun at Dutch festive traditions – especially the Zwarte Pieten characters that follow Sinterklaas around the Netherlands. Are they a fun tradition or a racial stereotype? No matter your viewpoint, Boom intends to resolve the issue with laughs rather than protests. Guaranteed to make you chuckle. Boom Chicago, Mon 11 NovThur 5 Dec, 20.30, €24.50

Het Muziektheater, Thur 14Sat 30 Nov, various times, €25-€140 COMEDY: AMSTERDAM ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS This new monthly feature presented by the Boom Chicago crew brings the best international stand-up comics to the city. Each show will include four or five sets and be entirely in English. November includes comics such as Ro Campbell (AUS), Bouchra Z (MOR) and Nigel Williams (UK). Boom Chicago, Fri 15 Nov, 22.30, €12/€15 PERFORMANCE: TODO EL CIELO SOBRE LA TERRA An artist beyond categorisation, Spanish director and performer Angelica Liddell creates performances that are both very personal and highly critical of society. For her, the theatre is a place of danger, anger and compassion, of performance, dance, live music and raw poetry. Stadsschouwburg, Fri 15 & Sun 16 Nov, 20.00, €15-€30

OPERA: AÏDA Verdi’s Aïda returns to Amsterdam once more, bringing the spectacular ROMAN TRAGEDIES grandeur of ancient Egypt Director Ivo van Hove lightly adapted three works by and the Italian’s dazzling Shakespeare – Coriolanus, Julius Caesar and Antony and musical fanfares to this royal Cleopatra – and rolled them into one voyeuristic work theatre. The performance by that explores the nature of politics. Having premiered Stichting Internationale Opera DANCE: PROGRAMME A in 2007, its contemporary staging still holds up six years Producties is in Italian with The rising stars of Nederlands Dutch surtitles. later, ensuring this six-hour show will fly by. PerformancDans Theater 2 (NDT2) are Royal Theatre Carré, Sun 17 es are in Dutch but on every Thursday Toneelgroep Amstarting their new performance Nov, 19.00, €19-€45 sterdam’s performances at the Stadsschouwburg will be season with a programme performed with English surtitles. Stadsschouwburg, Thur DANCE: DE JUNIOR that showcases the broad 19 Dec, 18.00, €44 COMPANY palette of modern dance styles. It features works by The National Ballet’s Junior three choreographers: JiÐí Company consists of 12 young One of the Dutch National African dance traditions. The Kylián (Gods and Dogs), Marco and highly talented dancers, Ballet’s biggest recent dazzling and energetic dance Goecke (Nichts) and Cayetano half of whom have just started successes is undoubtedly its performance expresses large Soto (new work). their dance careers with the vibrant interpretation of Don and small wars that affect Stadsschouwburg, Wed 13 National Ballet; the other six Quichotte, presented in 2010 us all. Four Dutch and four Nov, 20.30, €10-€37.50 are talents from the National by Russian choreographer Senegalese dancers with a Ballet Academy. Under the DANCING ON Alexei Ratmansky, the former hip hop background dance direction of Ernst Meisner, the THE EDGE artistic director of the as if their lives depend on group presents an appealing Bolshoi Ballet. it, reflecting the painful but This multi-city celebration of programme of excerpts from Het Muziektheater, Sat 2 & beautiful contrasts between contemporary Middle Eastern classic romantic and neoclassic Sun 3 Nov, various times, life as a hip hop dancer in and North African performing repertoires, plus brand new €15-€79 Amsterdam and Dakar. arts returns with an inspiring choreographies. MC Theater, Tue 5 Nov, 19.30, programme of theatre and Stadsschouwburg, Sun 24 READING: RUBY WAX €12.50-€15 dance performances, films and Nov, 19.00, €10-€32.50 She’s been an interviewer, installations. There’s also a DANCE: THE GATE OPERA: DE RING comedian, actress, author late-night lounge and as you and teacher, and as a ‘zany’ Choreographer Anna Maria may expect, delicious food up The 200th anniversary of American in the UK she’s been Suijkerbuijk is interested in for grabs. Wagner celebrations at Het responsible for a number of hit telling stories in any language. De Brakke Grond, www. Muziektheater this season TV moments, especially her In The Gate, this dancer brakkegrond.nl. Thur 14-Sun are certainly grand, but this celebrity interviews. Here she’s schooled in contemporary 17 Nov, various times & prices reimagining of his most talking about new book, Sane dance works with poppers and famous work is equally OPERA: New World, an open and funny break dancers – a language magical – if on a whole other GÖTTERDÄMMERUNG ‘how-to’ piece about surviving in which she’s not fluent scale. Hotel Modern stages mental illness based on her but which she nevertheless With 2013 marking the 200th its productions with finger own experiences. understands. Inspired by anniversary of the birth of puppet-sized models, but the De Duif, Tue 5 Nov, 20.00, Auguste Rodin’s sculpture Wagner, De Nederlandse Opera miniature worlds and live €13-€19 La Porte de l’Enfer, the show is revisiting its legendary animations are incredibly tells a story about friendship, stagings of The Ring of the evocative when brought to DANCE: SUN jealousy and betrayal through Nibelung for the last time – life on the big screen behind Sun is a work for 14 worldthe language of hip hop. first ividually and then as the them. In this collaboration class dancers set to an eclectic Theater Bellevue, Wed 6-Fri 8 entire cycle. Götterdämmerung with the Nederlands Blazers soundtrack featuring original Nov, 20.30, €15 is the final part, with American Ensemble, you can enjoy the music by UK artist Hofesh tenor Stephen Gould starring vivid storytelling of the 16-hour DANCE: PROGRAMME 1 Shechter. From the darkness of in one of the opera world’s Ring cycle in just 90 minutes. Shechter’s emotive and often In this thrilling programme, most challenging title roles. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur angry world emerges a bright the world-renowned dancers See page 26. 28 Nov, 20.15, €35

nov & dec 2013

DANCE: NAKED LUNCH PERFORMANCE: WEST SIDE STORY Dynamic, obstinate and raw: labels that perfectly capture Throughout the year, the the productions of Club Guy Royal Concertgebouw has & Roni. For Naked Lunch, been taking concertgoers on choreographers Guy Weizman a musical tour of the past 125 and Roni Haver sought years. This performance of inspiration in the masterwork Bernstein’s West Side Story of the same name by the looks to the future of the venue American writer William by unveiling new talents, Burroughs. The dancers and working with amateurs and actors perform along with four youngsters throughout the singers from VOCAALLAB year, introducing them to the and four percussionists from joys of music and performance. Slagwerk Den Haag. See page 23. Stadsschouwburg, Sat 30 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, Tue 3 20.30, €10-€32.50 & Wed 4 Dec, 19.00, sold out

Highlight comedy

TREVOR NOAH Probably the most renowned funnyman from the African continent – a scene that has seen a sudden growth in stand-up interest. Having won over his home audiences by mixing up provocative material and real-life stories with his relaxed and charming persona, he’s now moved on to the European and North American circuits with the help of Eddie Izzard. Thanks to his upbringing with a black African mother and a white Swiss father, Noah shares his experiences to puncture sensitive situations with punch lines. Toomler, Thur 12 & Fri 13 Dec, 20.30, €15 PERFORMANCE: MONTEVERDISH – A HIP HOP BREAKDANCE OPERA In this crossover production, breakdance meets opera and classical music. Local dance group ISH is teaming up with the ensemble VOCAALLAB to transform Monteverdi’s baroque opera L’Incoronazione di Poppea into an energetic (break)dance spectacle. Not to be missed. Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, Sun 1 Dec, 20.15, €27

DANCE: PROGRAMME II In this cutting-edge programme, NDT presents an unexpected mix of four contrasting choreographic voices: from Crystal Pite’s poetical flow and Alexander Ekman’s contemporary signature, to the poignant Skipping over Damaged Area by resident choreographers León and Lightfoot and a world premiere from Gabriela Carrizo. Royal Theatre Carré, Thur 5-Sat 7 Dec, 20.00, €18-€42

part in the choreography of dance/performance group LeineRoebana, led by Andrea Leine and Harijono Roebana. This innovative duo have been collaborating for 25 years now and are still surprising audiences, such as with recent show Ghost Track (see 1-3 Nov). This evening they’ll take over Bimhuis with a programme of classics and new ideas. Bimhuis, Sat 7 Dec, 20.30, €TBC

unleashing her Mother tour, performance. It blends original which dives headfirst into the horseback performances with issues surrounding modern gay live music, songs, comedy rights. See page 27. and special effects to tell an Comedy Theater, Fri 13 Dec, authentic story about 19th 20.00, €30 century Amsterdam – from the Canal Ring to the grimier PERFORMANCE: WORLD Jordaan. Performances and CHRISTMAS CIRCUS narration are in Dutch but it’s This blast of festive family a very visual production. fun sees one of Amsterdam’s See page 25. grandest theatres revisiting Hollandsche Manege, Thur its original purpose as 26-Sun 29 Dec, 14.30 & 19.30, a circus theatre. All the €22.50-€27.50 traditional entertainments are represented, from top OPERA: THE GAMBLER ADDRESSES acrobatics, trapeze play, Everything in Prokofiev’s The balancing and clowning Bimhuis Gambler revolves around around from the world’s most Piet Heinkade 3, 020 788 2150 getting money without having renowned clown: Bello Nock. http://bimhuis.nl to work for it – through an See page 14 Boom Chicago inheritance or by winning at Royal Theatre Carré, Thur 19 Rozentheater, Rozengracht 117 roulette (a game that has a Dec-Sun 5 Jan, various times, 020 423 0101 significant impact upon the €15-€64 www.boomchicago.nl set design). This opera stands Crea Café PERFORMANCE: WINTER out for its lively dialogues and Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 CIRCUS AMSTERDAM sharp insight into the human 020 5251 400, www.crea.uva.nl spirit. Prokofiev even thought A new circus for the 2013 De Duif of an exciting way to produce holiday season in Amsterdam, Prinsengracht 754, 020 420 1215 of the sound of the roulette the Winter Circus will take http://deduif.home.xs4all.nl wheel in the orchestra. Marc place in a custom tent next Heineken Music Hall Albrecht conducts while to the ArenA and features ArenA Boulevard 590 Sara Jakubiak makes her De a mixture of old and new www.heineken-music-hall.nl Nederlandse Opera debut. performance techniques – Hollandsge Manege Het Muziektheater, Sat 7, Tue acrobatics and plate spinning Vondelstraat 140, 020 6180942 10, Fri 13, Tue 17, Fri 20, Mon will be joined by the likes of www.dehollandschemanege.nl 23, Thur 26 & Sun 29 Dec, a trickster dog and Ukraine’s MC Theater various times, €15-€120 eye-dazzling Laserman. But Polonceaukade 5, 020 606 5040 this circus isn’t just about the www.mconline.nl THEATRE: LONG DAY’S professional performers: the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ JOURNEY INTO NIGHT circus park in the foyer is the Piet Heinkade 1, 020 788 2010 Eugene O’Neill has been perfect place for the young www.muziekgebouw.nl described by acclaimed Dutch ones (and maybe some oldies) Het Muziektheater director Ivo van Hove as to pick up some new circus Amstel 3, 020 625 5455 ‘America’s Shakespeare’, so skills, as well as soak up the www.het-muziektheater.nl as Toneelgroep Amsterdam festive atmosphere. Royal Concertgebouw turns its attention to O’Neill’s Arena Boulevard, Sat 21 DecConcertgebouwplein 10 masterwork, audiences can rely Sun 5 Jan, various times, 0900 6718345 on a top-notch interpretation. €15-€49 www.concertgebouw.nl It takes place over a single day Royal Theater Carré PERFORMANCE: in the life of the Tyrone family, Amstel 115, 0900 2525 255 ELIZE who fling accusations at each www.carre.nl other like rice at a wedding. The Hollandsche Manege – Stadsschouwburg Performances are in Dutch the oldest riding school in Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 but on this date it will be the Netherlands – will be the www.stadsschouwburg performed with home this festive equestrian amsterdam.n English surtitles. Stadsschouwburg, Thur 12 Dec, 20.00, €10-€35.50

DANCE: THE SLEEPING BEAUTY The Dutch National Ballet reawakens The Sleeping Beauty with a kiss this month. This fairy-tale ballet by Tchaikovsky is one of the greatest treasures ever produced by the Russian Imperial Ballet and almost 125 years after its premiere, the ballet is still regarded as the most demanding and brilliant NITRO CIRCUS LIVE COMEDY: CHRISTMAS example of the pure classical BONUS ballet style. This beautiful A spin-off from the hit MTV and acclaimed adaptation is series of the same name, this Laugh your Christmas by Sir Peter Wright, originally spectacular two-hour stunt stockings off – or take this premiered in Amsterdam in spectacular is sure to get your chance to avoid your seasonal 1981. See page 14. pulse racing! No less than 40 shopping a bit longer by taking Het Muziektheater, Thur 12 of the world’s best freestyle in Boom Chicago’s annual Dec-Wed 1 Jan, various times, motocrossers, BMX bikers exploration of festive laughs. €15-€77 and skaters will be pulling off Mixing scripts, improv, video their most extreme stunts, live and music, the house crew in the Ziggo Dome. Featuring pokes fun at the pleasures and COMEDY: MARGARET CHO This tattooed, outspoken Travis Pastrana, Andy Bell, the frustrations of the Californian comedian has been Jolene Van Vugt, Greg Powell, holiday season. Jim DeChamp and Erik Roner, Boom Chicago, Wed 6-Mon 30 blazing a trail through the US comedy circuit since the mid with a supporting role for the Dec, various times, ’90s. Although she’s also had massive 15-metre high Nitro €25.50-€26.50 a pretty hardcore following in Gigant-A-Ramp. DANCE: CARTE BLANCHE Europe, increased touring over Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100, LEINEROEBANA here has seen that fan base www.ziggodome.nl. Tue 3 Dec, blossom. On this visit she’s 19.30, €29-€89 Music plays a fundamental

Highlight dance

WHAT THE BODY DOES NOT REMEMBER This debut by Wim Vandekeybus stunned the world of dance upon its premiere in 1987 due to its ‘brutal confrontation of dance and music’. Twenty-five years later, with a new cast, this expressive explosion of aggression, fear and danger once again goes on a world tour. In a four-star review, the UK’s Guardian said: ‘Vandekeybus’ work is alternatively frenetic, humorous and unnerving, the cast performing with a feverish energy and focus.’ Find out for yourselves what all the fuss is about. Stadsschouwburg, Sun 15 Dec, 20.30, €10-€37.50

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Best seen from the water!

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tickets at canal.nl

nov & dec 2013

KIDS & FAMILY ATTRACTIONS AMSTERDAM DUNGEON Brings 500 years of history to life with 11 shows, seven actors and one terrifying experience. Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 11.00-17.00; €21, ages 5-17 €12.50 AMSTERDAMSE BOS (AMSTERDAM FOREST) Amsterdam’s largest park and recreational area is home to a goat farm (with a petting zoo), a Pancake House, a ‘FunForest’

MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Step into the amazing world of Madame Tussauds. The collection of wax figures includes plenty of pop-culture heroes: pose for photos with the likes of David Beckham, Justin Bieber and Beyoncé. Dam 20, www.madame tussauds.nl. Open daily 10.0018.30; €22, ages 5-15 €17

FOCUS TUNFUN TunFun is an indoor paradise for children under 12. Under adult supervision, kids can enjoy hours of active, creative and adventurous fun in a huge 4,000m2 indoor playground. Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun. nl. Open daily 10.00-18.00; adults free, ages 1-12 €8.50

VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR The Dutch Resistance Museum PANCAKE BOAT details the history of the Dutch A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pan- resistance in World War II durcakes and a view of Amsterdam’s ing the country’s occupation by canals make the Pancake Boat a Germany from May 1940 to May 1945. The museum’s dedicated Junior building shows young visitors (ages nine-14) how four peers lived during wartime. Verzetsmuseum, www.verzets museum.org. Open Mon, Sat & Sun 11.00-17.00; Tue-Fri 10.0017.00. Adults €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under-sixs free

Highlight kids

EVENTS

CONCERTS FOR KIDS One of Amsterdam’s most grown-up concert venues opens its doors to a whole new audience. For ages two to four, the musical performance Nest is a musical journey about hatching eggs; for five and upwards there’s a performance of the Annie MG Schmidt story about a boy and a bassoon; while kids ten and over are invited on an exciting journey with the ICP Orchestra, who’ll show that when it comes to music, it’s fun breaking all the rules. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ/Bimhuis, Sun 22 Dec, 13.30, €15 climbing park, a vintage tram, a botanical garden and a rowing lake. Bicycle, canoe, kayak and pedal boat rental are available. www.amsterdamsebos.nl ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Suitable for children over ten. Prinsengracht 267, www.anne frank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sun 09.00-19.00, Sat 09.00-21.00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Artis celebrates its 175th birthday this year. Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes galloping amongst the zebras, springboks, oryx and wildebeests. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www. artis.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €18.95, ages 3-9 €15.50 KINDERKOOKKAFE At the ‘Kids Cook Café’, children (ages five to 12) do absolutely everything to help run the restaurant, including cooking, serving, bar-tending, tidying up and running the cash register. Vondelpark 6b, www.kinder kookkafe.nl. Open daily 10.0017.00; various prices

great activity for all ages. Ms van Riemsdijkweg t/o 38, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Various times and prices SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM The National Maritime Museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids. Moored just outside the museum, the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam is a hit with visitors of all ages. Kattenburgerplein 1, www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50 SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to the world of science and technology. Five floors are filled with exhibitions, theatre and more. Hear, feel and see how the world works: everything is interactive. Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Open daily 10.00-17.00; €13.50 TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR Focused on non-Western cultures, the interactive exhibits here introduce children to new cultures in a playful way that sparks their curiosity. Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tro penmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00; various prices

ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS Every November, Sinterklaas, travels from his home in Spain to the Netherlands, bringing presents and special treats for the children. This year marks his 75th arrival in the city and the jubilee festivities include a boat parade along the Amstel, followed by horse parade through the city centre. See page 16. Various locations in the centre, Sun 17 Nov, from 10.00, free WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS All the traditional entertainments are represented, from top acrobatics, trapeze play, balancing and clowning around from the world’s most renowned clown: Bello Nock. See page 14. Royal Theatre Carré, Thur 19 Dec-Sun 5 Jan, various times, €15-€64 WINTER CIRCUS A new circus for the 2013 holiday season in Amsterdam, the Winter Circus features a mixture of old and new performance techniques – acrobatics and plate spinning will be joined by the likes of a trickster dog and Ukraine’s eye-dazzling Laserman. Arena Boulevard, Sat 21 Dec-Sun 5 Jan, various times, €15-€49 ELIZE The Hollandsche Manege – the oldest riding school in the Netherlands – will be the home this festive equestrian performance, blending original horseback performances with live music, songs and comedy. See page 25. Hollandsche Manege, Thur 26-Sun 29 Dec, 14.30, 19.30, €22.50-€27.50 PLANET EARTH Following the successful arena tour of Frozen Planet, this live performance pairs the beautiful cinematography of the BBC’s Planet Earth series with a sweeping symphony soundtrack performed by the 80-piece Gelders Orchestra. Dramatic and dazzling, it’ll please the entire family. Ziggo Dome, Sat 28 Dec, 20.00, €29.50-€59.50

175 YEARS OF ARTIS THE WINTER GARDEN

n 2013, Artis Royal Zoo is 175 years old. Back in 1838 construction began on a city park with resident animals. Today, Artis has become the green heart of Amsterdam, an oasis of peace and nature in the middle of the city enjoyed by millions of visitors each year. For the whole of the year, Artis has been ablaze with the most colourful and fragrant Dutch flowers – 176,875 of them in total – as well as 36,000 plants. And this season, the garden that is Artis will be full of plants that flower throughout the winter. Various kinds of cabbages can be seen, such as purple kale, savoy and red cabbage, plump pumpkins and gourds and fragile viola sit beside each other. Join us for a walk through wintery Artis and learn about the hundreds of thousands of flowers, plants and trees of Artis. Check www.artis.nl/en for opening hours and practical information.

ANNIVERSARY EVENTS MUSEUM NIGHT Artis participates in the Amsterdam Museum Night on the second of November. Learn about the wildlife in the Amsterdam canals in the Aquarium or take a virtual trip among the stars in the Planetarium. 2 November 19.00-02.00. Tickets available only at www.museumnachtamsterdam.nl. Artis membership not valid for this event. ANNIVERSARY TOUR Join the free tour and discover the history of the zoo. Every Saturday & Sunday, departs Ape Rock 11.00 LEARN ABOUT THE ANIMALS Every day from 11.00 onwards and at half-hour intervals, zookeepers talk about their favourite animals in their own quarters. Look for the daily programme in the park or at www.artis.nl Artis Royal Zoo, Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 www.artis.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BLACK MAGIC WOMAN and dedicated excursions. lations. There’s also a late-night FESTIVAL Various locations, www.interna lounge and as you may expect, tionalwaterweek.com. Mon 4-Fri delicious food up for grabs. Multidisciplinary festival INTERNATIONAL STORYTELL8 Nov, various times & prices De Brakke Grond, www.brakke featuring three days of music, ING FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM grond.nl. Thur 14-Sun 17 Nov, theatre, art, talk shows, MTV MUSIC WEEK Tall tales, beautiful stories, old various times & prices workshops, a soul food corner legends and touching recitals Leading up to this year’s MTV and a market selling handmade YOUNG PIANISTS FESTIVAL will all make an appearance at EMA, Ziggo presents four products. The 18th edition of the AMSTERDAM this year’s festival. Celebrating its packed nights of entertainment festival is an ode to free spirits, sixth year in 2013, the ISFA has reaching out to fans of all genres. providing a stage for innovative, A solid supporter of piano talent built up a solid name providing Performances are planned at since 1999, the Young Pianists border-crossing people and a stage for the best of the Dutch a host of Amsterdam’s top pop Foundation introduces the their ideas. and international storytellers. venues. See page 24. inaugural edition of the Young Bijlmer Parktheater, www. Various locations, www.storytell Various locations, www.mtv Pianists Festival Amsterdam. blackmagicwomanfestival.nl. ingfestival.nl. Fri 1-Sun 10 Nov, musicweek.nl. Wed 6-Sat 9 Nov, Fri 8-Sun 10 Nov, various times The festival welcomes skilled pivarious times & prices various times & prices anists aged between 12 and 29 to & prices compete and perform. The YPF WOOL WEEK AMSTERDAM Piano Competition plays a major The international Campaign for part in the festival, with the muWool takes over Amsterdam’s sicians performing in a number design scene as a selection of of rounds in pursuit of the illusmuseums, shops and designers trious Grand Prix Youri Egorov exhibit all things woolly. Head to award. The final is held on the the Cromhouthuizen to view 30 closing day of the festival. designers’ wool designs, or go to Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, www. the Oude Kerk to peruse an exypf.nl. Thur 14-Sun 24 Nov, varhibition in which ten photograious times & prices phers share their views on wool. INTERNATIONAL Various locations, www.crom DOCUMENTARY FILM houthuizen.nl/wool-week-2013. FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Until Sun 3 Nov, various times & prices Every November, IDFA transforms the city centre into a parAFROVIBES AFFORDABLE ART FAIR adise for documentary film fans. Biennial festival featuring today’s most unique, intriguCalling all aspiring art collectors! The 26th edition of the event And as the name of this event returns to treat documentary ing and extraordinary African artists and performers suggests, getting your hands on a lovers to the latest and greatest from the Netherlands and all around the globe. The MC piece of art doesn’t have to break domestic and international Theater at Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek is the tradithe bank: contemporary art is on arrivals from the documentary tional hub of the festival, home to the Township Café sale for between a few hundred film world. See page 30. which hosts live music, DJs, spoken word performances, and a few thousand euros. Various locations, www.idfa.nl. storytelling and talk shows every evening. And of course, Kromhouthal (De Overkant), Wed 20 Nov-Sun 1 Dec, various expect plenty of African snacks, meals and drinks to www.affordableartfair.com. times & prices Until Sun 3 Nov, various times help keep your energy levels up. Various locations, www. TURN ON THE LIGHTS & prices afrovibes.nl. Thur 14-Sun 17 Nov, various times & prices With Turn on the Lights, AmVRIJ BIG WINTER FESTIVAL sterdam’s luxury department SIERAAD ART FAIR JAZZFEST AMSTERDAM VRIJ (‘FREE’ – though this store de Bijenkorf opens the fesdoesn’t refer to tickets) events The 12th edition of this reFor the third successive year, this tive season in brilliant spectacle celebrate freedom and enjoying nowned jewellery fair is set to and festive cheer. See page 23. multi-band event looks set to life, with happenings often held be the most international yet, serve up a cosy evening of swing- Dam square, www.debijenkorf. at unexpected locations around featuring more than 160 jewelnl. Thur 21 Nov, 19.00, free ing tunes from some of Amsterthe city. This latest edition stops lery designers from 28 countries. dam’s favourite jazz bands and OP DE VALRAVE off at the Olympic Stadium. SAF is the only platform in the artists. Amsterdam has a long Expect a creative electro-heavy Netherlands where professional history of jazz goodness, so get a What’s your alter ego? At this line-up. contemporary jewellery designelectronic music festival, you’re little groovy with bands includOlympic Stadium, www.vrij.nl. ers from home and abroad invited to answer the question ing the Benjamin Herman Trio, Fri 1 Nov, 17.00, €27.50 can sell their work directly to by showing off your other side Jasper Blom Quartet and Mrs the public. – and the crazier the better. Smit and the Boys from Brasil. EXPATICA’S ‘I AM NOT A Westergasfabriek, www. Studio/K, www.jazzfestamster Whether your alter ego is a super TOURIST’ FAIR sieraadartfair.com. Thur 7-Sun dam.nl. Sat 9 Nov, 16.00, €12.50 hero, a cuddly bunny or your Whether you’re new to the 10 Nov, various times & prices own evil twin, anything goes! 2013 MTV EMA Netherlands, recently arrived or Deck yourself out in costume AMSTERDAM LIGHT about to make the big move, this and reveal the other you to The 20th edition of the MTV FESTIVAL annual fair has got everything throngs of other ravers while EMA comes to Amsterdam in you could need. The Amsterdam Light Festival dancing to a 12-hour line-up of 2013! MTV’s European Music Beurs van Berlage, www. returns to Amsterdam this deep beats from international Awards is one of the biggest expatica.com. Sun 3 Nov, 10.00, festive season, (literally) putting house and techno DJs. music events in the world and free (order tickets online) the beautiful city centre and Westergasfabriek, www.facebook. millions of eyes will be on the its canals in the limelight. See city as the global pop elite arrive. com/Opdevalrave. Sat 23 Nov, MUSEUM NIGHT page 10. 18.00, €18/€22.50 See page 24. AMSTERDAM Various locations, www. Ziggo Dome, www.mtvema.com. PAN AMSTERDAM On the first Saturday in Novemamsterdamlightfestival.com. Sun 10 Nov, time tbc ber every year, about 50 museFri 6 Dec-Sun 19 Jan, various Modern-day art fair that guaranKLIK! AMSTERDAM ums in Amsterdam open their times & prices tees surprise, variety and quality, ANIMATION FESTIVAL doors from 19.00 to 02.00 to presenting work ranging from PLAYGROUNDS VS allow visitors to see Amsterdam’s classical antiquities and Old One of the city’s most unique SUBMARINE CHANNEL museums in a completely new Masters to contemporary phofilm festivals, KLIK! features a light – after dark! See page 28. The name of this event is no mistography and art. See page 27. massive selection of top-qualVarious locations, www.muse nomer: it’s a visual playground Amsterdam RAI, www.pan.nl. ity animated films that go well umnachtamsterdam.nl. Sat 2 for digital artists to show off the beyond Walt’s work. This year’s Sun 24 Nov-Sun 1 Dec, 11.00, €15 Nov, 19.00, €17.95 latest and greatest in audiovisual theme is ‘The Fabulous Fifties’. MEESTERLIJK art in the form of music videos, EYE Fim Museum, www. INTERNATIONAL WATER animations, gaming, lectures Annual event allowing product, klikamsterdam.nl. Tue 12-Sun WEEK AMSTERDAM and special effects. Amsterdam’s fashion and food designers, 17 Nov, various times & prices Join the great debate with Stadsschouwburg serves as a craftspeople and diverse artists DANCING ON THE EDGE 25,000 international water pro- virtual playground, providing a to share their passion for design fessionals at the International traditional backdrop for the less and craftsmanship with the pubThis multi-city celebration of Water Week Amsterdam. The traditional modern artists. lic. Throughout the three days contemporary Middle Eastern event combines several events Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam, and North African performing of the event, established masters including the main conference at www.playgroundsfestival. will stand alongside talented arts returns with an inspiring Amsterdam RAI, a trade fair, a nl. Fri 8 Nov, various times, programme of theatre and dance novices. Visitors can buy objects young professionals programme €18.50/€35 directly from the participating performances, films and instal-

FESTIVALS

TYLER DOLAN

Highlight festivals

artists, or simply pick their brains about their trade. Westergasfabriek, www.meester lijk.nu. Fri 29 Nov-Sun 1 Dec, 12.00, €10 CANAL FESTIVAL WINTER SPECIAL The Amsterdam Canal Festival returns with a new series of classical performances during the Amsterdam Light Festival. Six candlelight concerts are planned, in which talented guests curate their perfect musical winter night, showcasing inspirational classical music at some of the city’s most iconic locations. Various locations, www.grachten festival.nl. Specific dates TBC, various times & prices WINTERPARADE The winter version of the classic theatrical festival full of live acts and performances. The WinterParade invites 500 guests to take their seats at a 120-metre-long table for a festive menu and stacks of entertainment. See page 16. Oude Kerk, www.tafelvandeidee. nl. Sat 14 Dec-Sat 4 Jan, time TBC, €35 AMSTERDAM ELECTRIC GUITAR HEAVEN Festival celebrating the electric guitar in all its incarnations and variations. One highlight of the event looks set to be the final of the Sena Young Talent Guitar Awards, a prize dedicated to supporting the next big things in the electric guitar world. Conservatorium van Amsterdam, www.amsterdamelectric. com. Sun 15 Dec, various times & prices VALHALLA The best and brightest electronic dance initiatives in Amsterdam team up to host a night filled with the biggest names in dance music. Valhalla returns to present the biggest names from an extensive variety of styles, from disco to deep house and from techno to club house. Amsterdam RAI, www.valhalla festival.nl. Sat 21 Dec, 22.30, €44.50/€49.50 TANGOMAGIA Warm up the wintery days between Christmas and New Year with a fiery dose of Argentinian passion! The 16th edition of this international tango festival hits town with dance workshops, performances and talented dancers from all corners of the globe. See page 13. Various locations, www.tango magia.com. Thur 26-Mon 30 Dec, various times & prices NEW YEAR’S EVE Whether you’re a party animal or a romantic, young of years or young-at-heart, a big spender or on a budget, Amsterdam is a great city to ring in the New Year. The compact, easy-to-navigate city centre lends itself particularly well to impromptu street parties, and clubs throughout the city host events catering to all musical tastes. Various locations, www.iamster dam.com. Tue 31 Dec, various times & prices for part

nov & dec 2013

SPORTS FRIDAY NIGHT RUN AJAX VERSUS NIEUW-WEST NAC BREDA The District of Nieuw-West NAC Breda make the trip from FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE gets in on the evening running the south of the Netherlands Get your skates on for the action with their very own to the capital for this Saturday weekly Friday Night Skate, Friday Night Run organised by evening duel. Interesting an institution in Amsterdam! the AAC Athletics Association not-football-related fact: the Departing from the every last Friday of the month. unabbreviated name of the Vondelpark, the skating routes The route varies each week club is the second longest in take in all areas of the city, and there are two groups the world. allowing you to skate in places to join: one departing for a Amsterdam ArenA, where you wouldn’t on your 30-minute run and another Amsterdam Boulevard, own. Even if you don’t want to that takes on the more www.amsterdamarena.nl. join in, it’s a spectacuar sight. challenging one-hour variant. Sat 7 Dec, 18.45, various prices Vondelpark Pavilion, Sportpark Ookmeer, N201 RUN www.fridaynightskate.com. Willinklaan 7, Every Friday, 20.30, free www.aacamsterdam.nl. Fri 29 Nothing short of a once-inNov & 27 Dec, 19.30, free a-lifetime opportunity, this AJAX VERSUS VITESSE unique running event is being SOCIAL SQUASH NITE Amsterdam’s footballing held on a freshly constructed heroes take on Vitesse in Squash City hosts a Social provincial motorway. Be one their seventh home match of Squash Nite every last Friday of the first (and probably only) the season in the top Dutch of the month: an evening of people to run on the tarmac league. After being acquired squash and socialising open before it opens to traffic, by Georgian businessman (and to all! Meet new faces, work taking on either a 10km or former pro-footballer) Merab up a sweat on the court and 15km course in the afternoon. Jordania, Vitesse’s coffers cool down with a drink at Come evening, there are also received a healthy financial the bar after the action. No 5km and 10km night runs, boost facilitating the purchase registration needed, just turn the motorway lights guiding of several new players. The up on the night. There’s no participants to the finish. club enjoys strong bonds entrance fee for members. Green Park Aalsmeer/N201, with Chelsea FC: Marco van Squash City, Ketelmakerstraat www.n201run.nl. Sat 14 Dec, Ginkel made the move to the 6, www.squashcity.com. Fri 29 various times & prices Premiere League earlier this Nov & 27 Dec, 18.00, €12.50 BOSBAANRUN year and Vitesse often loans ( free for members) players from the London team. Following the success of the NETZO SINTERKLAAS Amsterdam ArenA, inaugural edition last year, the VOLLEYBALL Amsterdam Boulevard, Amsterdamse Sport Unie ’11 TOURNAMENT www.amsterdamarena.nl. returns with a second outing Sat 2 Nov, 18.45, Amsterdam-based gay & of this running event. Staying various prices lesbian volleyball club Netzo true to its name, the 7km is back with its annual route weaves its way around FRIDAY NIGHT RUN volleyball tournament and the Bosbaan: the rowing Organised by the Phanos party. Open to participants lake located to the south of Athletics Association every from all corners of the globe, it Amsterdam. second Friday of the month, traditionally attracts hundreds Bosbaan, www.amsterdamse this free group running event of people – both volleyballers sportunie.nl. Sun 15 Dec, time is open to both recreational and those who come along to & price TBC and more serious sportsters. cheer the competitors on (and DRAG WINTER Beginners can join in the naturally, to enjoy the dinner OLYMPICS 40-minute run at a slower and party after the sporty tempo and there’s also the action has finished). With A much-loved feature of standard one-hour run. Netzo celebrating its 25th Amsterdam’s annual Gay Pride Olympic Stadium, anniversary in 2013, this year’s celebrations, this legendary www.phanos.org, Fri 8 Nov & theme is ‘Silver and Shine’. event returns every December 13 Dec, 19.30, free Various locations, as part of the city’s Pink www.netzo-amsterdam.nl. Christmas celebrations. Miss STADIONLOOP Sat 30 Nov, various times Windy Mills traditionally Organised by the Phanos & prices hosts the sporting spectacle, Athletics Association, the which sees the world’s top drag ROLLERDISCO Stadionloop in the Zuid Olympians compete in events District of the city is the Organised by roller-skating including the 100-metre final event in the Rondje fanatics Skate Dance, this sprint, musical chairs and of Mokum (Amsterdam Circuit) rockin’ and rollin’ night resocourse the Christmas present programme of running lutely proves that disco ain’t throw. Drag queens and kings competitions. Alongside the dead, baby! So get your skates looking for a shot at a title professional event, there’s on (or hire a pair for the night) can register on the day. See also a 5km and 10km event and enjoy a night of roller page 15. for recreational runners, skating, disco and funk boogie. Leidseplein ice-rink, all starting and finishing at Club Lite, Jan van Galenstraat www.pinkchristmas.nl. Amsterdam’s famous Olympic 24, www.clublite.nl. Sun 3 Nov Fri 20 Dec, time TBC Stadium. And for younger & 1 Dec, 19.30, €8 AMSTERDAM runners under 13, there’s a NITRO CIRCUS LIVE HASH HOUSE special 1km event. HARRIERS Olympic Stadium, A spin-off from the hit MTV www.olympischstadionloop.nl. series, this spectacular twoIt may seem controversial, Sun 10 Nov, various prices hour stunt display is sure to but this ‘drinking club with a get your pulse racing! No less running problem’ dates back AJAX VERSUS than 40 of the world’s best to the 1960s, and now has HERACLES ALMELO freestyle motocrossers, BMX more than 1,250 chapters Just like Ajax, this club from bikers and skaters will be worldwide. Visitors and the south-east of the country pulling off their most extreme newcomers are welcome, so features a Greek divine hero stunts live. Featuring Travis head along every Sunday and in its name. Former Heracles Pastrana, Andy Bell, Jolene walk, jog or run the trail with player Lerin Duarte made the Van Vugt, Greg Powell, Jim fellow ‘hashers’, singing and move to Amsterdam this year DeChamp and Erik Roner, drinking along the way. Yes, and will be looking to impress with a supporting role for the you read that right: there are against his old club. massive 15-metre high Nitro regular pit stops for booze Amsterdam ArenA, Gigant-A-Ramp. built in to the route. Amsterdam Boulevard, Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100, Various locations, www.amsterdamarena.nl. Sat www.ziggodome.nl. Tue 3 Dec, www.harrier.nl. Check site for 23 Nov, 20.45, various prices 19.30, €29-€89 latest dates

EVENTS

GAY & LESBIAN GAY & LESBIAN TUESDAY BLUESDAY Club night with a special focus on blues and soul music. Same Place, every Tue, 21.00 NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Marnixbad, every Tue, 21.00, various prices BLUE Kooky clubbing with drag supremo Jennifer Hopelezz. Drinks are just €2.50. Church, every Thur, 22.00, €5 THE PONY CLUB Three floors of DJs spin an energetic mix of pop, disco, house and electro. Club NYX, every Thur, 23.00, €5, free before midnight ZONDERBROEK Drop your trousers and lose your pretences at this underwear party. Church, every Fri & every Sun + Sat 7 Sep; & Sat 5 Oct, various times, €10 GAY PUB CRAWL Does exactly what it says in the tin, taking in ‘Gay Street’s finest drinking establishments. Departs Taboo, every Sat, 20.00 DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR Because why wouldn’t you want to start the week with a hangover? Taboo, every Sun, 18.00 LADY GALORE’S DRAG NIGHT Come and join Lady Galore and her wonderful assistant Annie Alcohol along with some guest performers and surprises. Amstel Fifty Four, Sat 1, 20.00 SUNDAY CAROUSEL Be transported to exotic climes with Arabian music. Lellebel, every Sun, 22.00 BEAR NECESSITY – A POGONOPHOBIC NIGHTMARE Halloween edition of the party for bears and their lovers. Odeon, Sat 2 Nov, 23.00, €20 MSMA MONTHLY MEET-UP That’s Motor Sport Club Amsterdam, one of the oldest fetish and motorcycle clubs in Europe. De Schreierstoren, Sun 3 Nov; & 1 Dec, 22.00 GAY MOVIE NIGHT Enjoy a screening of the gems of gay cinema. Pathé de Munt, Wed 6 Nov; & 4 Dec, 21.00, €10 DV8 CRUISE Dance the night away and go wild on the water. Departs Central Station, Sat 9 Nov, 22.00, €15 GARBO FOR WOMEN Women-only dance party. Strand-West, Stavangerweg 900, www.garboforwomen.nl.

Sat 16 Nov; & 21 Dec, 17.00 FURBALL Hairy men dance party for the butch and bears. Church, Sat 16 Nov, 22.00, €10 HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Big willy gay sex party. Dress code: naked or underwear. The Warehouse, Sun 17 Nov; & 15 Dec, 15.00, €8 NETHERBEARS Bi-weekly get-together by Netherbears, the slightly less stocky bear men (according to their website). The Queen’s Head, www.neth erbears.nl. Sun 24 Nov; & 22 Dec, 19.00 EAGLE – RECON FULL FETISH AMSTERDAM Fetish, leather, rubber, army, sportswear, neoprene, boots & jocks, Lycra and skinhead stylings welcome. The Eagle Amsterdam, Fri 29 Nov, 22.00, €10 LOVEDANCE Annual HIV awareness and fundraiser party. Paradiso, Sat 30 Nov, 21.00, €12.48 WASTELAND AMSTERDAM Europe’s most notorious fetish fantasy extravaganza. Hemkade 48, Zaandam, www. wasteland.nl. Sat 30 Nov, 22.00, €49.50 BEAR NECESSITY – END-OF-YEAR New Year edition of the popular party for bears and their lovers. Odeon, Sat 28 Dec, 23.00, €20 ADDRESSES Amstel Fifty Four Amstel 54 www.amstelfiftyfour.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl The Eagle Amsterdam Warmoesstraat 90 www.theeagleamsterdam.com Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4 www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein1 www.hetmarnix.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl Odeon Singel 460 www.odeonamsterdam.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15, www.pathe.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20, www.queenshead.nl Same Place Nassaukade 120 www.sameplace.nl De Schreierstoren Prins Hendrikkade 94/95 www.schreierstoren.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 http://www.warehouseamsterdam.com

beyond amsterdam

THE A-LIST

BEYOND

A’DAM

DON’T MISS HAARLEM’S FAMOUS CHRISTMAS MARKET, WITH 150 STALLS SET AGAINST THE STUNNING BACKDROP OF THE TOWN HALL AND ST BAVOKERK.

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

15 DECEMBER

GLEN BROWN, STAR DUST, 2009

text Maxine Knoote

WHERE OLD MEETS NEW Frans Hals, Pieter Claesz and Cornelis van Haarlem are all important names in Dutch art history. The works of these 17th-century masters would be worth visiting on their own, but with the exhibition Conversation Piece V, Haarlem’s Frans Hals Museum casts them in a new light, displaying them alongside work by controversial Turner Prize-nominated British artist Glenn Brown (Hexham 1966). Known for his interactions with historical artists, Brown takes existing paintings and changes the colour, size and composition, resulting in macabre, hauntingly elusive images. This exhibition shows both worlds – the original paintings and the ‘re-creations’ – side by side, giving visitors the opportunity to view these 17th-century artworks in a modern incarnation. Until 19 January www.franshalsmuseum.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Haarlem take around 15min.

CHANEL, THE LEGEND ANTON PIECK PARADE Take a festive trip back in time and get a nostalgic view of our neighbouring city, historic Haarlem. During the Anton Pieck Parade, the streets around the Grote Markt will be turned into a scene from the early 20th century, with volunteers in period costumes practising all kinds of traditional crafts. 7 December, Haarlem www.antonpieckparade.n GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Haarlem take around 15min.

From her ‘little black dress’ to her iconic perfume Chanel No.5, the creations of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel (1883-1971) – and the celebrities who wear them – continue to inspire more than 40 years after the French fashion designer’s death. In addition to original clothing designs, this survey exhibition includes accessories and a superb selection of Chanel costume jewellery borrowed from private collections: sparkling, colourful and as chic as it comes. Until 2 February Gemeentemuseum, The Hague www.gemeentemuseum.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to The Hague take around 50min.

‘PEOPLE MAY THINK THAT A SINGLE PAINTING STIMULATES ME TO MAKE A “COPY”, BUT I NEVER MAKE A DIRECT QUOTATION… I LOOK AT HUNDREDS OF IMAGES TO FIND A REPRODUCTION I CAN TRANSFORM.’

‘FASHION FADES, ONLY STYLE REMAINS THE SAME.’ SEE IF COCO CHANEL’S FAMOUS MAXIM STILL HOLDS TRUE, AT THE HAGUE’S GEMEENTEMUSEUM.

CHARLEY TOOROP, STILLEVEN MET CACTUS, 1924

ARTIST GLENN BROWN, TALKS INSPIRATION – AND PLAGARISM.

CROSSING BORDER

WONDER

NEW YEAR’S DIVE Few things could be more ‘refreshing’ than a plunge in the icy North Sea after you’ve been partying all night on New Year’s Eve, right? Diving into the North Sea on the first day of the New Year has been a tradition in the Netherlands since the 1960s. Although the biggest ‘Nieuwjaarsduik’ is in Scheveningen (The Hague), there are several other beaches closer to home (Zandvoort, for example) where you can join in – or observe – this chilly ritual. 1 January, Zaandvort GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Zaandvoort aan Zee take around 30min.

Since the start of the 20th century, picturesque Bergen has been known as an ‘artists’ village’, and the works made between 1915 and 1925 are nowadays referred to as the ‘Bergense School’. From 12 November, the exhibition Wonder, at the Kranenburgh museum, will give an insight into the encounters and clashes between genres, disciplines and generations of the Bergense School, Cobra and contemporary artists. It will feature painters, poets, photographers and composers. 12 November-16 March Kranenburgh Culturele Buitenplaats, Bergen www.kranenburgh.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, take the train to Alkmaar (30min), then bus 6 to Bergen (15min).

Highlighting new developments in literature and music and their interconnection with other arts, the Crossing Border festival identifies genre distinctions – and promptly ignores them. Since its inception, it has evolved into one of Europe’s foremost international interdisciplinary festivals, with performances occurring simultaneously on several indoor stages. Literary highlights include Brit author and Booker Prize-winner DBC ‘Vernon God Little’ Pierre, while Ghostpoet’s critically acclaimed mix of hip hop, dub, electronic and rap is not to be missed. 14-16 November around The Hague http://denhaag.crossingborder.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to The Hague take around 50min.

need to know

CLOSING

NEED TO

KNOW

Transport to tipping, your ABC of navigating Amsterdam.

illustration Qamar van Leeuwen

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Included within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Haarlem, industrial heritage highlight Zaanse Schans, North Sea beaches and the bulb region around Flora Holland auction centre – and of course, your journey to and from Schiphol Airport. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from Visitor Information Centres, GVB, EBS and Conexxion ticket points.

TAXIS To keep traffic flowing at peak efficiency, there are REGULATED TAXI RANKS across the city – including outside Central Station and on Leidseplein. REGULATED FARES have also been introduced. These are listed below for a regular, fourpassenger taxi.

Maximum start price: €2.83 Maximum price per kilometre: €2.08 Maximum price per minute: €0.34 For more information, see www.taxi.amsterdam.nl

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS In an emergency (police, ambulance, fire) CALL 112 To report theft or other petty crimes, CALL 0900 8844 For non-urgent medical advice CALL 020 427 5011

CANAL CRUISES There’s nothing like seeing Amsterdam from the water, and canal cruises are among the city’s most popular attractions. There are a host of companies with departure points across town and commentary in a multitude of languages, providing everything from hop-on, hop-off services mooring at all the key attractions to romantic dinner and evening cruises. www.iamsterdam.com

PUBLIC TRANSPORT An extensive network of trams, trains, metro and boats connects Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods. Disposable OV-CHIPKAARTEN, which have an inbuilt chip, can be used on all forms of transport and may be purchased or topped up with credit at locations across the city – just don’t forget to check in and check out or your card may be invalidated. TRAMS and BUSES are the most common form of public transport within the centre, while TRAINS and the METRO are efficient for travelling longer distances. Behind Central Station, FERRIES transport passengers across the River IJ to the north of Amsterdam – completely free of charge.

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the Visitor Information Centres in Amsterdam:

Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 10.00-17.00 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE LEIDSEPLEIN* Leidseplein 26 Open daily 10.00-17.00 *Last Minute Ticket Shop

COFFEESHOPS Coffeeshops are permitted to sell UP TO FIVE GRAMS OF CANNABIS TO ANY PATRON OVER THE AGE OF 18. All hard drugs and the sale/purchase of soft drugs on the street are strictly illegal and punishable by law. Note that smoking regular tobacco in a coffeeshop is illegal.

BIKES Most locals swear by their bikes as the best – and often their only – means of transport. With 400 kilometres of dedicated bicycle paths, it’s not hard to see why. Bike rental companies are located across the city. Just follow these simple rules to remain safe: STAY IN LANE: use the right-hand bicycle lane FOLLOW THE RULES: adhere to all traffic signs and lights INDICATE: always signal before turning LIGHT AT NIGHT: it is illegal to cycle without lights in the dark WATCH OUT FOR TRAM TRACKS: cross them at a sharp angle LOCK UP: bike theft is prevalent; always chain up to a bike stand DON’T IMITATE THE DUTCH: Amsterdammers are notorious for breaking the rules. Don’t follow their example!

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are eligible for Value Added Tax (VAT) refunds on purchases made within the European Union. In the Netherlands, VAT is 21% and the minimum spend is €50. There are three ways to reclaim your VAT: • Shop only at retailers affiliated with Global Blue, ask for a tax-free cheque and then reclaim the VAT at their desk at Schiphol Airport: WWW. GLOBAL-BLUE.COM • Shop wherever you like, save your receipt and reclaim the VAT online or at the VAT Free service desk at Schiphol Airport: WWW.VATFREE.COM • Visit Customs before leaving the EU to get your receipts stamped, then send them back to the shop for a full VAT refund

CLOSING SINTERKLAAS IN AMSTERDAM

THEN AND NOW

then & now

2 DECEMBER 1953 In the Fifties, this is what the long-awaited arrival of Sinterklaas in Amsterdam looked like. Notice anything different?

NEXT ISSUE JAN & FEB 2014

Anyone familiar with the typical Dutch tradition will notice that Sinterklaas’ assistants – those politically sensitive scamps who dominate the festive season – look a little different. The black faces from which their name, Zwarte Piet (Black Pete), originates, are conspicuously absent. There is annual debate about the sensitivity (or lack thereof) of a powerful white man having black helpers, but the discussion is especially heated this year – and even the United Nations is investigating the case. Many Dutch people don’t see the problem, explaining Zwarte Piet’s colouring as the result of soot from sliding down all those chimneys. Another often-heard argument is that Zwarte Piet has been part of an important cultural tradition for centuries. However, this picture seems to show something else… BEN MERK, ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS ON DAM SQUARE, 2 DECEMBER 1953

23-27 January: Amsterdam Fashion Week sashays into town

31 January: China Town and Zeedijk get festive, for Chinese New Year 1 February-15 June: Dutch designer Marcel Wanders is Pinned Up at the Stedelijk

14 February-1 June: The Van Gogh Museum presents Félix Vallotton: Fire Beneath the Ice

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

on the way out

MIKE DE JONG, 52

manager, from Prague, doing to Spain ‘I love the Zeedijk, it’s so colourful. All the shops and restaurants – a lot of delicious, authentic Chinese food.’

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

GERRIE AND GERRIT VAN KUIJK

from Den Bosch, going to South Africa ‘The Anne Frank House is very impressive. It’s heavy with history, and you can’t leave unscathed, without thinking very deeply, How did this happen?’

CHANTAL DAVIDSE, 19, AND ADAL MOHAMMAD, 23 students from The Hague, going to Turkey

‘If you want cool, unique clothes that not everyone would wear, we recommend the Monki shop on Kalverstraat.’

JACQUELINE KOMMERS, 19 DENIS BONINK, 49, & MARJOLEINE LOUWRIER, 29 going to Cyprus

‘You can’t miss Rembrandt’s “Night Watch” at the Rijksmuseum. It’s such a masterpiece, and it’s worth the long queues.’

from Utrecht, seeing her mum off to Bangkok ‘My favourite place in Amsterdam is the OBA public library. The new concept is very original, with all the interactive media and computers. It’s great that Amsterdam has adapted to the new world, which has a lot of technology to offer for a better education.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic staff photographer Marie-Charlotte Pezé cover illustration Eili-Kaija Kuusniem copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Maxine Knoote, Qamar van Leeuwen, Toby Main, Carolyn Ridsdale, Roos Schlikker, Bregtje Schudel, Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag) listings Tamar Bosschaart, Eden Frost, Steven McCarron, Dave Nice, Christiaan de Wit sales 020 702 6100 / sales@iamsterdam.com

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms of this promotion • valid until 11 December 2013 • a maximum of 2 people per voucher • Not valid in combination with other offers • Amsterdam Marketing and Foam cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

Foam shows diverse exhibitions from both (world) famous photographers and upcoming talents. Until 11 December Foam shows Framed in Print, a never-before shown overview of 40 years of photography from leading Dutch magazines. With works of five photographers who played a significant part in determining the look of lifestyle magazines of the last 40 years. Typical magazine themes are highlighted in the exhibition, such as documentary, culinary, fashion, interior design, travel, portraiture and sports.

25% discount on the entrance fee Foam - Framed in Print

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms and conditions: • one voucher per person • voucher cannot be exchanged for cash • not valid in combination with other promotions • valid 6 December 2013 through 19 January 2014 • only valid on presentation of this voucher at the cash register / ticket counter of the Lovers Company • Amsterdam Marketing and Lovers Company cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

This winter, Amsterdam will once again be transformed into a capital of light. Amsterdam Light Festival will take place from 6 December 2013 to 19 January 2014. Enjoy the very special journey past international light artworks. Passing through the Amsterdam canals and the Amstel River, you will admire light artworks, projections and installations. Departure: Prins Hendrikkade 25, Lovers van Gogh Café. More info: www. amsterdamlightfestival.com. Reservations: www.loverscompany.com (coupon code WCR13).

25% discount on the Water Colors Route with Lovers Company

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms of this promotion: 1 voucher per person • not valid in combination with other special offers • valid up to and including 25 December • valid only for the concerts given by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra at the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam on 12, 13, 18, 19, 22 and 25 December • the discount applies to all rows while supplies last • Amsterdam Marketing and RCO cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra is giving six concerts at the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam in December. Order tickets at a 25% discount to concerts featuring Benjamin Britten’s Les Illuminations with tenor Ian Bostridge on 12 & 13 December, the pianist Menahem Pressler’s RCO debut following his 90th birthday on 18, 19 & 22 December, and even the Christmas Matinee showcasing works by Wagner and Richard Strauss on 25 December. Tickets: log on to www.rcoamsterdam.com/december (coupon code 1314KCODAMAG) or call 0900–6718345.

25% discount Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra concerts in December

For the full programme of Amsterdam 2013 check www.iamsterdam.com/2013

Terms of this promotion • Free cake when you purchase a drink at one of NEMO’s cafés • valid until 31 December 2013 • a maximum of 5 people per voucher • Not valid in combination with other offers • Amsterdam Marketing and NEMO cannot be held accountable for printing or handling errors

For 90 years, NEMO has been the perfect place to explore the fascinating world of science and technology. In need of a break after all those scientific discoveries? Unwind at Café Renzo Piano or enjoy spectacular views of Amsterdam from our rooftop café (both also accessible without entrance ticket). To mark this festive occasion, NEMO treats you to a free cake when you purchase a drink.

SCIENCE CENTER NEMO 90 Years: celebrate with a free cake

foto DigiDaan

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA 25% DISCOUNT

NEMO 90 YEARS: CELEBRATE WITH FREE CAKE

FOAM - FRAMED IN PRINT 25% DISCOUNT

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL 25% DISCOUNT

in November & December

Breakfast at Tiffany’s

With Audrey Hepburn. From 14 November

Charles Chaplin’s Modern Times From 19 December

Dutch Movies English Subtitles Monthly screenings of the very best Dutch Cinema

The Quay Brothers

Exhibition & film program. From 15 December

Info & tickets: www.eyeﬁlm.nl

David Lean’s Doctor Zhivago (4K) From 26 December

15-10-13 16:52

Van Gogh 01.05.2013_12.01.2014 at work www.vangoghmuseum.com/vangoghatwork

Vincent van Gogh, Zelfportret als schilder / Self-portrait as a painter, 1887,Parijs / Paris, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, (Vincent van Gogh Stichting / Foundation)

EYE_AD_AMAG_15-10-2013.indd 1

Craftsmanship for over 60 years Gassan Diamonds Nwe. Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175 1011 LN Amsterdam T: +31 (0)20 622 5333

Gassan Dam Square Rokin 1-5 (Dam) 1012 KK Amsterdam T: +31 (0)20 624 5787

www.gassan.com

Gassan Schiphol Dep. Lounges 1,2,3,4 & Arrivalhall 3 1118 AV Schiphol The Netherlands T: +31 (0)20 4059920