A-mag Jan-Feb 2018

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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SIGHTS & SOUNDS DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS JAN & FEB 2018

JAN & FEB 2018

language no problem — 18 January 14 February 2018 — The Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra — operaballet.nl

TRISTAN UND ISOLDE — Richard Wagner

GREAT DATES (THE ROMANCE ISSUE )

Vol 6 NO 1 €3.50

Discover your Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/neighbourhoods

Explore the world Take off and fly to 265 destinations worldwide. With KLM and its partners, you can explore your world – klm.com

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 6 N0 1 JAN & FEB 2018

SLOW ROMANCE

CONTENTS P.04 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.08 UP CLOSE Move over, Paris: Amsterdam’s got the chops to woo the pants off you, with its romantic streets, sleek bars, kinky hotel rooms, sinful spas-for-two and private karaoke parties.

P.17 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The Stedelijk just got a deep-skin treatment with its new Base, FOAM artists find inspiration from the past, and our ‘language-no-problem’ guide has non-Dutch-speakers covered.

If you’ve lived in a city for as long as I have in Amsterdam (30 years), it gradually becomes like a living historical picture book.

Every neighbourhood brings back memories of life events, if not life-changing ones.

Sitting in a café on the Ceintuurbaan in the Pijp neighbourhood, I realised that there were four addresses on that street alone that I’d spent time in with loved ones. This was back in my student days of course, when dating was something you did totally randomly and casually. I even remember being taken to a party somewhere on the Ceintuurbaan by my then ‘fiancée’, and at the end leaving with another one (as did my girlfriend-du-jour, by the way). And this was years before Tinder or even mobile phones.

Having a lot of casual sex is not something to be proud of in itself, but, looking back, getting so many dates without an app makes you wonder: how did we do it?

I can’t help thinking that all those online dating doors that opened in the 2010s, such as Tinder and Happn and oHello, took away from our ability to make real, live contact.

What isn’t helping either, especially in the past few months, is that picking someone up in real life always runs the risk of possibly being seen as transgressive behaviour.

Who’s still up for that?

In Amsterdam though, as in many European cities, the art of the pick-up is still fairly innocent and straightforward, unlike how it can be perceived on American campuses, for example.

You visitors may need a little guidance, however, and that’s where we come in.

From page 8 onward, read our guide to Romance in Amsterdam. With the hottest spots, hand-holding-inducing scenery, pickup places and even where to get married for a day. You can at least impress your Tinder-date with it.

Happy Valentine’s.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief, A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

P.31 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Discover Amsterdam’s little sister Amstelveen in Neighbourhood Watch, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.63 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.47 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: +31 (0)20 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

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jan & feb 2018

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news, plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘AMSTERDAM CONTINUES TO FEEL LIKE A NEW PLACE TO ME; IT’S COSY – MORE LIKE A COSMOPOLITAN VILLAGE WITH ITS SMALL STREETS AND SHOPS.’ TV CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR ALAIN CARON THINKS THIS TOWN HAS THE RECIPE FOR SUCCESS.

text Mark Smith

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS SEXY SERVER Data processing facilities are typically housed in anonymous boxes in industrial suburbs. Not so the gleaming new AM4, a 72-metre tower of servers visible from the A10 ring road. According to architect Joost Vos of local architects Benthem Crouwel, the aim was for the structure to be ‘attractive but not too welcoming’ – hence the use of a moat-like canal instead of the usual barbed-wire fences.

Always wanted to be in the movies? The Pathé cinema chain has a treat for those who like to be immersed in the on-screen action. Its new ‘4D’ theatre in the Pathé de Munt multiplex features moving chairs, weather simulation and evocative smells.

Rain can be switched on and off – if only that were the case in real life. pathe.nl

WATER BEDS Amsterdam’s distinctive bridge-controlling houses – elevated one-room structures that have traditionally sheltered the workers who raise and lower bridges at the touch of a button – were rendered obsolete last year after a digital upgrade. Now 28 of the distinctive buildings are being converted into studios by an initiative called Sweets, and you can rent them by the night. As you’d imagine, the units, which are spread across the city, boast some of the very best waterside vistas in the city, and they’re being restored by a host of architects and designers to reflect their surroundings. For example, the Kinkerbrug building above the Kostenverlorenvaart in Amsterdam-West has furniture in the famous Amsterdam School style. As founder Suzanne Oxenaar puts it, ‘you don’t need a lobby, the city itself becomes the hotel’. sweetshotel.amsterdam

CURL BOSS It’s a novel way of getting high in Amsterdam. For the second year running, the 17th floor of Ramada Apollo hotel in Nieuw-West is given over to two curling rinks. An hour of shuffling on the ice is free of charge, but there’s a minimum spend of 60 on (hot) snacks and drinks. Novices can rest assured that experienced staff are on hand to explain the rules.

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‘HERE PEOPLE CYCLE WITH A RECKLESS SWAGGER, TALKING ON THE PHONE AND EATING BREAKFAST.’

JOHN GREEN, THE FAULT IN OUR STARS

© WWW.IWAN.CON

WRITER DAVID NICHOLLS SUMS UP DUTCH COURAGE WHEN IT COMES TO BIKING.

‘SOME TOURISTS THINK AMSTERDAM IS A CITY OF SIN, BUT IN TRUTH IT IS A CITY OF FREEDOM. AND IN FREEDOM, MOST PEOPLE FIND SIN.’

PROJECTION RUNWAY The frog-like exterior of the EYE Filmmuseum building will appear even more spectacular between 14 January and 9 February, when the work of five artists will be projected onto the facade as part of the World Masters of Projection Mapping challenge. The brief for the artists was to create a work of video art that can be experienced from multiple viewpoints.

AMSTERDAM ON A PLATE Some of Amsterdam’s greatest culinary hits have been compiled in a tome that allows you to eat like a local, even if you’re miles away from our fair city. The Amsterdam Cook Book features recipes including the hitherto-undisclosed secret to baby-back ribs from The Butcher and monkfish fritters from the family restaurant Café Caron in De Pijp. It’s the perfect takeaway!

FULL OF BEANS Perky Amsterdammer Alex Kitain has solved a pressing issue for the modern globetrotter: how to get your hands on a decent cup of joe, anywhere at any time.

Requiring just hot water and a mug, Freshdrip is Europe’s first single-serve speciality coffee in a ready-togo bag. Varieties were sourced via local green coffee traders Trabocca, so it’s the next best thing to having a barista in your pocket. freshdrip.com

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jan & feb 2018

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘WE ACCOMPANY THIS COUPLE NOT ONLY TO THE ANNE FRANK HOUSE AND THE RIJKSMUSEUM, BUT ALSO INTO THEIR DEEPEST SELVES.’

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THE WASHINGTON POST APPROVES OF MIDWINTER BREAK, THE AMSTERDAM-SET NOVEL BY BERNARD MACLAVERTY.

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themodelshealthpledge.nl

TOP 5 to do

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Amsterdam’s fashion folk have signed up to the Model’s Health Pledge, a project aiming to safeguard vulnerable models and prevent abuse. The first initiative of its kind, the project challenges magazines, modelling agencies, clients and others to submit to a code of practice that includes reasonable workload, responsible nutrition and the avoidance of misconduct.

Any model working in the Netherlands who believes the code is being violated can use its website to make an anonymous submission. Within five days his or her case will be taken up by an independent vertrouwenspersoon (trustworthy person). Karin Swerink, editor-in-chief of Vogue Nederland, thinks this will have international impact: ‘Dutch models are everywhere. By being clear about what’s appropriate, I think they can help to raise the bar for everyone.’

VARENBLAD © ANONYMOUS

MODEL BEHAVIOUR

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 BACK TO THE FUTURE This intriguing exhibition at FOAM explores how contemporary photographers make novel uses of the old ways.

From 19 January FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 foam.org

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2 LEGENDARY TRUNKS Explore 150 years of Louis Vuitton’s legacy, with this rare chance to admire 300+ historical pieces of luggage

– even some that survived the Titanic.

Until 18 February Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 legendarytrunks.com

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3 CHOCOA Dive into the heart of chocolate at this big delicious international festival, which is not only a chance to indulge in, but also to learn all there is to know about the production, sustainable options and even great wine pairings of this sinful favourite.

24-25 February Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 chocoa.nl

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4 ICE* AMSTERDAM Don your ice-skates (or rent

a pair), and skate the day away with the Rijksmuseum as an enchanting backdrop.

Until 4 February Museumplein iceamsterdam.nl

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5 IMPRO AMSTERDAM Enjoy some great performances by acclaimed international artists or test your own acting chops at the many fun workshops of this improv festival.

20-27 January Compagnietheater, Kloveniersburgwal 50 impro-amsterdam.nl

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7 ‘I’M SCARED OF AUDIENCES. ONE SHOW IN AMSTERDAM I WAS SO NERVOUS, I ESCAPED OUT OF THE FIRE EXIT.’

‘I CANAL’T BELIEVE THIS PLACE IS SO DAM LIT’

WELL, HELLO FROM THE OTHER SIDE, ADELE!

INSTAGRAM SENSATION MICHELLE LIU BRINGS HER @CHINVENTURES TO OUR WATERWAYS.

THE ROYAL SCAN

GET A ROOM The festival that’s hell-bent on persuading Amsterdammers to be tourists in their own city is back for a sixth indulgent edition. The brainchild of Vincent van Dijk – a PR man and blogger who’s so hotel-obsessed he once spent every night of the year in a different Amsterdam hostelry – Amsterdam Hotel Night offers low rates in approximately 30 participating venues around the city, but ticket-holders are also welcome at an array of festivities to boot. Events at previous editions have included a roller-skate party at the hip-and-healthy Conscious Hotel Vondelpark, a silent disco at the chic Canal House, and Alice in Wonderland-themed shenanigans at the Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht. That ‘Do not disturb’ sign won’t be a-swinging for too long, then...

13 and 14 January Various locations hotelnacht.nl

In an example of life imitating art, the 3D painting scanner at the Rijksmuseum that analyses landscape scenes by Old Masters will soon be assisting police detectives as they investigate present-day crime scenes. In its daily life, the X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF) machine at the museum is used to scan masterpieces millimetre by millimetre for substances including zinc, providing insights into the circumstances surrounding their creation. On hearing of the device, it occurred to Arian van Asten of the Dutch Forensic Institute that the presence of zinc in DNA-traceable bodily fluids – including semen – might make the XRF a useful sleuthing tool. The hunch turned out to be correct and, because of the high cost of the technology, the museum will make it available to detectives on a case-by-case basis.

ON A ROLL Used toilet paper is rarely considered an asset. In fact, most of us prefer not to think about it at all. But the team at the University of Amsterdam’s Sustainable Chemistry research department are made from stronger stuff. Together with colleagues from Utrecht University they’ve published the world’s first techno-economic analysis of converting waste toilet paper into electricity. Masters student Els van der Roest examined the possibility of combining devices for the so-called gasification of waste toilet paper with high-temperature solid oxide fuel cells. Generating some 10,000 tons of bog roll per year, the Amsterdam region alone could power 6,400 homes, with a projected cost per kilowatt hour comparable to residential solar power installations. Well, they do say that ‘where there’s muck there’s brass’…

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PART I UP CLOSE

GREAT DATES

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Quaint bridges , intimate lounges, outrageous hotel rooms and glow golfing: our guide reveals Amsterdam’s many sexy secrets – a city of lovers that would rival even Paris.

Romantic spot

#1

Go in style all the way, by renting a classic saloon boat and cruising the canals (from €220, with skipper).

Tip: don’t miss the so-called Seven Bridges (where the Reguliersgracht crosses the Herengracht), which are best seen from the water.

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

PRIVATE BOAT TOURS privateboattours.nl

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If you believed Amsterdam doesn’t have its fair share of grand love stories, think again. Here are some of the local tales that will ravish the romantics – but also indulge the voyeurs in search of a bit of historical scandal... text Marie-Charlotte Pezé box-outs Karin Engelbrecht

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TALES OF LOVE

rom the time we could read, we have gone to bed with heavy books that ravish us with heroic feats accomplished in the name of love – in different times and exotic lands.

Romeo and Juliet took us to Renaissance Italy, Anna Karenina and Count Vronsky to 19th-century Russia, and Helen of Troy and Paris to Ancient Greece. But what about Amsterdam? Where are the local doomed lovers who lived through spellbinding love stories, the Taj Mahals built by Dutch kings for their beloved wife? It turns out, the Dutch do love (in the public eye, at least) much like they do everything else: in an understated, down-to-earth way. These stories may not be the stuff of legends, but there is no arguing that truth can be tragic, romantic, heroic and sometimes downright juicy too.

have called illegible: Rembrandt’s Whore).

A jilted Geertje snidely pawned off some of Saskia’s jewellery, and then sued Rembrandt for ‘breach of promise to marry’, so, in good fashion, he shipped her off to an asylum, finally free to consort with the maid. However, in order to keep Saskia’s inheritance, he was never able to marry Hendrickje, but that didn't stop her playing an important role in his life and their relationship: she posed for many of his paintings (most famously for Bathsheba at Her Bath), she helped raise his son and gave him a daughter, and she handled all his business affairs when he placed them in her name later on in their life so that his lenders could not get to his money. They stayed together for the remainder of Hendrickje’s life; she died a couple of years before him – of the plague, of all things.

SCANDALOUS If you’re itching for reality TV-level scandal, take Rembrandt’s adulterous love life: after his first wife Saskia died of tuberculosis – or arguably a bit sooner – he took up with her nurse, Geertje. A few years later, he fell in love with his much younger and prettier housekeeper, Hendrickje Stoffels (the subject of a book that many critics

LOVE LOST On the list of disreputable local passions sits one big surprise: Anne Frank. While nobody would bat an eye today, parts of her historic Diary of a Young Girl were censored by her father before it was first published, because they describe her unbridled desires for the ravishing female form. From the attic of the house on

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PART I UP CLOSE

great dates

‘Passions run deep behind closed doors’

Zoku

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

KANARIE CLUB Bellamyplein 51 kanarieclub.nl DE GYMZAAL Pieter van der Doesstraat 15 de-gymzaal.nl ZOKU Weesperstraat 105 livezoku.com

Westerpark

THE HOXTON Herengracht 255 thehoxton.com DE TULP Marie Heinekenplein 33 detulp.amsterdam BAR BUKOWSKI Oosterpark 10 barbukowski.nl LOUIE LOUIE Linnaeusstraat 11 louielouie.nl BAR WEBER/CAFÉ LUX Marnixstraat 397/403 weberlux.nl KOPSTOOTBAR Marnixstraat 429 kopstootbar.amsterdam

De Tulp

The Hoxton

HOW TO CONNECT AWAY FROM THE APPS Ask a single woman in Amsterdam about dating apps… and wait for your ears to explode. Dutch copywriter Katrina B. (40) says it’s hard to meet a guy in real life because, ‘these apps have been spoiling that BIG TIME. I probably wouldn’t be single anymore if they didn’t exist!’ That said, she advises, ‘the best thing is to grab a coffee and work at a place like Kanarie Club. You can also walk a dog (even if it’s not yours) in Westerpark or go to a gym like De Gymzaal, where there’s a good mix of guys and girls’. Amsterdam-based American photographer Lila H. (32) agrees, ‘often you meet at work, or at co-working spaces like Zoku, or The Hoxton. The dating pool in Amsterdam sucks because the guys don’t take initiative, they’re stuck on themselves, or they don’t try to impress you’. Still, if you insist on braving the bar scene, tropically-themed, ‘De Tulp is a good hook-up place on Fridays’ according to Katrina because, ‘you’ll find a variety of ages and lots of guys! They also organise a salsa night on Tuesdays, which is packed every week’. Belgiumborn web editor Jolien J. (26) says, ‘I think a bar is easier to meet a single man in his 20s to 30s, or at least to strike up a conversation, and bars like Bar Bukowski, Louie Louie and Kopstootbar are perfect for that’. While Corsican transplant Ghjulia H. (34) tips Café Lux and (next door) Bar Weber as ‘the places to land someone, like 100%’.

11 Prinsengracht where her family hid from the Nazis, Anne famously wrote about her crush on Peter, but also, a fact revealed just recently, about her affections for her friend Jacqueline van Maarsen: ‘I remember that once when I slept with a girl friend I had a strong desire to kiss her, and that I did do so.

I could not help being terribly inquisitive over her body, for she had always kept it hidden from me. I asked her whether, as a proof of our friendship, we should feel one another’s breasts, but she refused.’

WAR AND PEACE Another well-known figure of World War II was cellist and conductor Frieda Belinfante, who not only openly lived as a lesbian at a time such things were unthinkable, but who also found herself a prominent figure of the Dutch Resistance. A document forger, she was part of the CKC Resistance group that bombed the Amsterdam population registry in 1943, greatly impairing the Nazis’ capacity to get their dirty hands on the names of local Jewish residents. Before becoming a war hero, she spent nearly a decade in a loving relationship with composer Henriëtte Bosmans. Their story paved the way towards more acceptance, in a city that would decades later become the first to celebrate gay unions, and is still today recognised as a champion of LGBTQ rights.

Love and war often find themselves intertwined, as in the story of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who chose to spend their March 1969 honeymoon protesting the Vietnam war by staging the infamous Bed-In. For an entire week, from 09:00 to 21:00, the iconic couple invited the press over as they lounged in the king-size bed of the presidential suite at the Amsterdam Hilton Hotel. All they did was talk about peace in their pyjamas, which greatly disappointed the audience members who hoped they were going to have sex. But the publicity stunt garnered a lot of international coverage and support, and a year later, during Amsterdam’s Summer of Love, hippies looked to disrupt public order by sleeping on Dam Square. If not as cosy as the Hilton’s suite, the gesture inspired by John and Yoko drove its message home: Love (and sleep?) is a weapon to wield against hate.

IN THE NAME OF LOVE So, yes, Amsterdam may not be Paris, the famous city of lovers – but after reading these stories and getting all our tips on how to woo your beloved, you see how it’s quite the romantic hot bed. Some even call it the Venice of the North, a moniker well deserved if you stroll along the canals during one of the city’s epic sunsets, with the northern slanted light painting the skies pink and orange. Quaint bridges,

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Romantic spot

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If you have to go down on one knee, why not do it with Amsterdam at your feet? You can enjoy views over the IJ River and city while sipping bubbly on the award-winning terrace of the SkyLounge at the Doubletree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station.

SKYLOUNGE AMSTERDAM Oosterdoksstraat 4 skyloungeamsterdam.com

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PART I UP CLOSE

great dates

‘John and Yoko drove the message home : Love is a weapon to wield against hate’

DATE NIGHT DINING Finding a romantic restaurant in this minimalist-loving land is quite the feat, but we’ve done the dirty deed for you with our ensemble of best tables for two:

DE BELHAMEL Brouwersgracht 60 belhamel.nl

LATE DATES At atmospheric newcomer ACE, chef Rik Thesing (ex-De Bokkedoorns**, ex-Ron Blaauw**) delivers internationallyinspired cuisine with an Amsterdam twist until midnight on weekends. Place your bets on ‘Queen of Hearts’, a secluded upstairs table for two.

ACE Utrechtsestraat 33 restaurantace.amsterdam

FABULOUS FINE DINING At Sinne, one of the city’s most affordable Michelin-starred options, €39 buys you three perfectly playful courses and excellent service in a classy, candlelit setting.

SINNE Ceintuurbaan 342 restaurantsinne.nl

SLINKY SUSHI & CHAMPAGNE Hidden behind copper chainmail and cherry-blossom silk screens, the secluded candlelit booths in Geisha’s Champagne Lounge are the perfect place to furtively feed each other Pan-Asian finger foods.

GEISHA Prins Hendrikkade 106A restaurantgeisha.nl

Geisha

flowery porches and tiny wonky houses create an enchanting village atmosphere that just begs for a bit of hand-holding (and/or heavy petting).

If you’re still not convinced, here is our favourite Amsterdam love story, which shows how the locals may not express their admiration Singing in the Rainstyle, but it doesn’t mean their passions don’t run deep behind closed doors. In 1977, fans were aghast when internationally-revered football player Johan Cruijff suddenly announced his retirement, right after qualifying his team for the 1978 World Cup. It took 30 years before the mystery was finally lifted over this disquieting (and thankfully temporary) decision: in 2008, Cruyff, one of the world’s greatest players of all time, revealed to the public that his family had been the victim of a vicious break-in, with intruders holding him at gunpoint while tying up his wife and their children. In his own words, he explained his decision to leave the limelight, and focus his energy on his family: ‘These things change your point of view towards many things. There are moments in life in which there are other values.’ Cruijff had met Danny Coster at an Ajax teammate’s wedding in 1967; when he died in March 2016, their love had endured almost 50 years.

Move along, Tristan and Isolde: this is what legends are made of.

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CANDELABRA & CANALS De Belhamel combines French-Italian cuisine with views of two of the city’s prettiest waterways, and a beautiful Belle Époque interior with plenty of original art nouveau details.

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THE ROMANTIC RENDEZVOUS ROUND-UP Looking for a place to meet your blind date, stow away your secret lover, or stare into your soulmate’s eyes? We’ve got you covered.

CUDDLY COUCHES Rainy afternoons were made for snuggling, and where better to do so than in art’otel’s stylishly sexy lounge-slash-library, where you can choose between fireside seats and comfy couches in overlooked corners. You’re hidden enough for a furtive grope, but even if you’re feeling coy, there’s no way you could make your waiter blush seated next to a copulating phallic lamp.

We’re just sayin’.

ART’OTEL Prins Hendrikkade 33 artotelamsterdam.com

House Bar

DAYTIME DATE For a convivial vibe and large sunny terrace, head to Amsterdam Zuid landmark Café Wildschut, apparently one of Amsterdam’s first grand café’s, which is looking rather fresh-faced after its recent refurb (thankfully with its art deco features intact). Or head to the black quilted leather booths in the back room, which are remarkably well-suited for whispered conversations and a touch of chaste hand-holding.

CAFÉ WILDSCHUT Roelof Hartplein 1 cafewildschut.nl

SECRET HIDEAWAY Sure, our city has the cosy cocktail bar thing down (The Tailor, Pulitzer’s Bar and Door 74 are all excellent options), but if you’re seeking something a little less buzzy, where you’re unlikely to bump into people you know with your new beau, dark and moody House Bar is a smart alternative. On quieter weeknights, the beautiful beamed-ceilinged back room with its curvy couches can feel like a private living room. And while service can be uneven, there are times you do want to be invisible… right?

HOUSE BAR Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 5 housebaramsterdam.com

art’otel

Tying the knot while in town will require some advance planning but can be done in four easy steps, provided that either you or your partner are Dutch or registered in the Netherlands. First, you have to give notice of your intention to marry (called Ondertrouw in Dutch).

Then you make an appointment to officially Arrange the Date and Place. After this, you can Arrange your Witnesses. And finally, you Get Married at one of the Amsterdam city offices or an official wedding location of your choice. Too much hassle? For €75, you can get ‘married for a day’ at Wed and Walk, the no-strings-attached wedding chapel, where you can rent dresses, tailcoats and top hats (even the rings!) and arrange a ceremony under a floral arch. At sunrise the next day, all you’re left with is a fun memory and a photograph of your fauxwedding kiss.

HOW TO GET MARRIED iamsterdam.com/en/living/take-care-of-official-matters/documents-certificates/ registering-marriage WED & WALK Eerste van der Helststraat 13 wed-and-walk.com

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

HOW TO GET HITCHED IN THE NETHERLANDS

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PART I UP CLOSE

great dates

‘The enchanting village atmosphere just begs for a bit of hand-holding... and/or heavy petting’

THINGS TO DO ON YOUR DATE Looking for something a little more original than a dinner or movie date, without all those awkward silences?

We’ve combed the city looking for original ideas.

WATER COLORS CRUISE One of our favourites for January is the Water Colors Cruise. The 90-minute night-time (heated) boat ride passes by the Amsterdam Light Festival’s 40 ‘existentiallythemed’ art installations along illuminated canals (from €21.50), giving you plenty to talk about blueboat.nl/en/canalcruise_amsterdamlightfestival.html GLOW GOLFING Golfing (essentially glow-in-the-dark mini golf, €9.75) is an equally illuminating activity. Is it romantic? Well, the lights are off, and there are balls and holes involved… need we say more?

Prins Hendrikkade 194 glowgolf.nl/en/amsterdam GINGER Book a private karaoke room at Ginger (from €250 for three hours, including food & cocktails). Apparently, it’s the only restaurant to offer this feature in the Netherlands, and you know you’re in for a laugh.

Ferdinand Bolstraat 13-15 gingeramsterdam.nl AWAY SPA Perhaps the ultimate way to set a romantic mood is to get scrubbed and rubbed from foot to face at dark and dreamy Away Spa, which offers a relaxing treatment for two in a couples’ room, followed by a wet session in the downstairs steam room, jacuzzi and hot tub (€500 for 120 minutes).

Private Experience for Two at Away Spa Spuistraat 172 awayspa.wamsterdam.com

© MARK GROENEVELD

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THE CITY’S SEXIEST HOTEL ROOMS Check the brochure of any fancy hotel and the most romantic room is always listed as the big, blow-your-budget suite. And while the city offers plenty of those these days, there are, in fact, romantic rooms for every budget: AFFORDABLE AMOUR One of the Volkshotel’s so-called ‘Special Rooms’, the sleek Soixante Neuf room (from €139) is ‘about mystery, sensuality and seduction’ says designer Rosa Lisa Winkel. Highlights include a steel-framed bed suspended over a high-gloss epoxy floor and a roomy bathtub for randy couples, set on a stage by the window, overlooking the city.

VOLKSHOTEL Wibautstraat 150 volkshotel.nl/en

JACUZZI DOOZY While there are many attractive Oosterparkfacing rooms at this recently renovated historic hotel-in-a-park, we think the Courtyard Suite (from €338) 338) at Hotel Arena is a fabulous midrange option, with its big, bright white bed, soaring ceilings, old arched windows overlooking a leafy courtyard and, down a few steps, an impressive bathroom with jacuzzi.

HOTEL ARENA ‘s-Gravesandestraat 55 hotelarena.nl

Romantic spot

#3

Whether you’re planning to propose or simply looking for a place to have a meaningful moment with your most beloved, picturesque Amsterdam has plenty to offer. In Hortus Botanicus’ hidden garden, there’s an old apple tree with mistletoe hanging over a heart-shaped tile, but Amsterdam’s 380-year old botanical garden also offers a charming courtyard year-round, and in the summer months, the Palm Greenhouse makes a wonderful wedding location. Or catch the Hortus

by Light evenings in early January, with guided walks through the beautifully lit gardens with campfires and glühwine, plus three-course dinners in the Orangery.

HORTUS BOTANICUS Plantage Middenlaan 2A dehortus.nl

THE DREAM The Superior Suite Garden View Lofts at The Dylan, Amsterdam’s most elegant luxury hotel, offer a slice of honeymoon heaven (from €600). The ultimate in maximalist minimalism, these beamed-ceilinged beauties with their creamy dreamy colour palette and blonde woods are awash with natural light and give their king-size beds suitable pride of place. It’s a room to love (and make love in).

THE DYLAN Keizersgracht 384 dylanamsterdam.com

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BACK TO THE FUTURE CHOCOLATE STEDELIJK BASE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

LEGENDARY TRUNKS

‘I LIKE TO LIVE IN A PEACEFUL ENVIRONMENT, BUT BE CLOSE TO THE MESS, AND AMSTERDAM IS VERY MUCH LIKE THAT.’ Drag Queen Belle Dommage found the words to describe our city: quaint with a bang.

The Beurs van Berlage is offering us the rare chance to admire the beautiful craftsmanship of Louis Vuitton’s legacy.

With more than 300 authentic articles of luggage, Legendary Trunks is a fascinating journey through several generations of the iconic house’s pioneering, innovative works – some dating back as far as the 1850s.

From Hemingway’s library case to Franklin Roosevelt’s suitcases, and even trunks that travelled on the Titanic, the exhibited collection (the largest of its kind in the world), on loan by Swedish collector Magnus Malm, is a treasure trove of fashionable but also historical wonders that have stood the test of time.

UNTIL 18 FEBRUARY Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 legendarytrunks.com

SONIC ACTS ACADEMY

COURTESY OF GALERIE AKINCI

©LEYLA GEDIZ, OBSCURA, 2017,

Coming round every two years, this academic variant of the Sonic Acts festival looks at art as a means of knowledge production. Over the course of three days, artists will present work that challenges and bridges the usual gap between theory and practice.

Focusing on developments at the intersection between art, science and technology, the event sheds light on how art can be a rich, fruitful and often beautiful way to disseminate knowledge throughout generations. Events are usually found around town in venues such as Paradiso and the Stedelijk Museum.

23-25 FEBRUARY Various locations sonicacts.com

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18

back to the future

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

In with the old, in with the new

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With Back to the Future, FOAM presents a new generation of photographers who are looking back in order to move forward.

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LEAF BUDS, WORKING COLLAGE © KARL BLOSSFELDT

COLOUR FILTERS - TRACES OF THE FAMILIAR © JAYA PELUPESSY & FELIX VAN DAM

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

FROM 19 JANUARY

FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 foam.org

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I

n the past decade, the digital revolution has altered three main aspects of photography: its craft, its tangibility, and all its happy accidents. While it’s democratised the medium, suddenly handing a camera to everyone in possession of a smartphone (so, pretty much everyone), it has also vastly contributed to a homogenisation of what used to be a semi-exclusive art form that required equipment, knowledge and skills.

The result is the creation of an abundance of images that are now inundating the world via Facebook and Instagram; unlike the photographs of the past, which were born on paper. Gone is an entire

part of the sensory experience – inserting a roll in the camera, cranking the shutter, dipping your fingers in cold, stinky chemicals before even knowing what you had captured. Most shutterbugs today don’t know the poetry of the long wait; or the pleasure at discovering a beautiful accidental light leak.

THE NEW ADVENTURERS Kim Knoppers, curator of the Back to the Future exhibition which opens at FOAM on 19 January, says that ‘the more photos we make, the less we understand of their essence, and of the original process of making them’. In reaction to what

she calls this ‘photographic hyperinflation’, artists have a new-found drive to give their work character and exploit technical skills.

She calls it a ‘riposte to the transience of the present’, as ‘unique work is increasingly important in comparison to the endlessly copied, shared and reproduced images’.

This translates into a return towards the more traditional forms of photography… with modern twists. The contemporary artists picked for this exhibition all enjoy playing with tried-andtested approaches, such as cyanotypes or photograms; but they also like to get their hands dirty by bringing

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Highlights © EVERT DEN HARTOG

FIRST ART FAIR

FIRST ART FAIR

ROY LICHTENSTEIN

KEITH HARING’S VELUM

FOR REAL (formerly REALISME) is Amsterdam’s new art fair for contemporary, figurative art. From paintings, sculptures and graphics to photography, hundreds of renowned and emerging artists are represented over 39 stands organised by selected galleries. In addition to the exhibition/marketplace, there are various activities during the fair, such as artist talks.

The fair takes place in the hall of the Passenger Terminal Amsterdam located at the IJ Boulevard, where large cruise liners moor during summer.

17-21 JANUARY Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Piet Heinkade 27 firstartfair.nl

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© MATTHEW BRANDT COURTESY YOSSI MILO GALLERY NEW YORK

ROY LICHTENSTEIN

innovative ideas and using modern tools (such as Photoshop or 3D printing).

BACK TO THE SOURCE One of them, Jaya Pelupessy, combined skills and passions with graphic designer Felix van Dam to build a camera obscura that captures images on silkscreen. ‘Every time we use the camera, what comes out is a surprise, because it has a mind of its own’, he says. For the exhibition, they’re taking their ‘Traces of the Familiar’ project even further, exploring how to add colour to their creations, thoroughly enjoying that this search for a new aesthetic feels like yet another

beginning. Pelupessy explains this enthusiasm by the craftsmanship that their project requires, but also because ‘in this society where photography is growing, I find it important to be aware of the constructions behind it’. The desire to know how things are made or how they work is a developing trend: ‘you see it with food too; people want to know the origins of the products’, he adds.

Because this concept of origins is so important, the exhibition also features works by photographers from some 150 years ago, not only drawing parallels but also shedding light on the

inspiration and references this new generation of ‘mad scientists’ of photography has found in their forefathers.

Fast-food photography may be thriving, and the advent of digital definitely has many perks for amateurs and pros alike; but what this exhibition also shows is that it is all a formidable drive for artists to emulate the pioneers of the 19th century, honouring the crafts of days past with a renewed spirit of adventure – and much unexpected beauty.

The new museum for contemporary art was launched last year by the owners of the Lionel Gallery.

The goal? Bringing the rock stars of modern art to the public, with a slew of exhibitions showcasing the works of icons such as Dali, Banksy and Warhol. The latest big name on show at MOCO is Roy Lichtenstein, one of the greatest contemporary masters of Pop Art. Discover the worldfamous paintings that have influenced so many forms of artistic expression, from design and photography to advertising and fashion, and learn more about the complex process of construction of his image with the highlyrecognisable bold lines and colours and of course his iconic thousands of dots.

UNTIL 31 MAY MOCO, Honthorststraat 20 mocomuseum.com

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KEITH HARING’S VELUM The iconic American pop artist created a giant canvas especially for his 1986 Stedelijk exhibition.

Transforming the making of the 12x20-metre canvas into a live performance, he spent a day in the museum itself, spray-painting dancing figures, crawling babies and animals – while listening to hip-hop. The canopy was then hung below the glass cupola that sits above the grand historical staircase of the museum. Thirty years later and after a four-month long restoration process, the canvas is hanging again in its original place, filtering daylight through the artist’s signature bursts of colour and movement.

UNTIL 3 JUNE Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

chocolate

The chocolate core

The special relationship between cacao and Amsterdam comes down to trading dominance, chemical ingenuity, and today’s focus on sustainability. text Elysia Brenner

T

hanks to Dutch dominance in the global spice trade by the 18th century, chocolate was pouring through Dutch ports – almost exclusively in liquid form. Until the clever Dutchman Coenraad van Houten changed everything in 1828 by inventing an ingenuous method to separate cocoa bean paste into powder and butter, paving the way for both the hot chocolate and the ubiquitous candy bars and bonbons we shower upon our beloved (or gorge on) come 14 February.

As the world’s largest chocolate port (really!), it’s no surprise that Amsterdam plays host to Chocoa, one of the biggest international

chocolate trade shows, every February. The event not only showcases the city as a chocolate haven of trade and production, but also its leading role in pushing sustainability standards forward (especially with scarcity scares dominating global headlines in recent years). Local favourite Tony’s Chocolonely has revolutionised the local chocolate market with adventurous flavour offerings (think dark with orange and rosemary, milk with popcorn and disco dip, or white with carrot and walnut), and has made a commitment to working with 100% slave-free growers.

Other local chocolate makers are

gladly getting on board, aping everything from Tony’s colourful packing (see Albert Heijn’s Delicata house brand) to crazy flavours (try the white with gin, tonic and lime, or milk with peanut butter popcorn from Urban Cacao’s Stach brand) to responsible sourcing. The entire city has even committed to 100% sustainable chocolate by 2025.

What is surprising, in this city of chocolate, is the dearth of places for a truly touristy chocolate experience.

There are plenty of places to pick up local blends – many will point you in the direction of Puccini Bomboni’s gourmet bonbons, for example; listen to them. Outside a

21 PUCCINI BOMBONI

24-25 February Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 chocoa.nl

CACAOMUSEUM Czaar Peterstraat 175 cacaomuseum.nl

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don’t miss these

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Staalstraat 17 ; Singel 184 puccinibomboni.com

VERKADE EXPERIENCE Zaans Museum, Zaandam zaansmuseum.nl

PARADISO CHOIR DAYS It may be a modern-day pop temple, but Amsterdam’s Paradiso was originally a church, so it seems fitting that every year the entire venue lends its stage to 140 different choirs for its Korendagen. Amateur singers of all ages and from all over the country have 15 minutes to share their passion with the public, in a huge variety of sets and genres: from swinging pop songs to Renaissance music and world music to jazz. It’s a very special, goosebump-raising event.

THE THINGS THAT PASS After The Hidden Force, TGA’s acclaimed director Ivo van Hove is adapting another novel by Couperus: The Things that Pass, in coproduction with Toneelhuis Antwerp. Couperus’ themes of irreconcilable differences between the cultures of the West and the East is still omnipresent in this new project, described as an ‘appalling and dreadful tragedy’.

As a young couple returns home from their honeymoon, they find themselves entangled in the traps of their family’s past: a hushed-up crime of passion, from long ago and far away in the Dutch East Indies, which continues to have a devastating influence on the relatives of the now-elderly adulterous couple.

HOTELNACHT

(free!) exhibit in the Cacaomuseum in Amsterdam Oost, the nearest immersive chocolate adventure is the Verkade Experience in Zaandam.

With the long-promised Willy Wonka-like Chocolate Factory (dechocoladefabriek.nl) next to Central Station still MIA, Tony’s once again steps in to save the day with their own promised chocolate wonderland, Tony’s Factory. It vows to satisfy sweet tooths with an all-you-can-eat chocolate buffet, chocolate fountains, a chocolate dolphin show (?!) and a roller coaster. When it’s built, that is. Until then, pass the Puccini, with a side of sustainability.

Finally, your chance to spend a night in your dream hotel!

Once per year Hotel Night opens the doors to the most coveted establishments in town at reasonable prices.

Three different categories of hotels participate: creative ones, such as Conscious Hotel, Botel Amsterdam and Jaz Hotel; premium hotels like the monumental Renaissance or Park Plaza Victoria; and luxury hotels such as the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, the Hilton or Hotel de l’Europe. Bring your eye mask, but don’t forget your fancy shoes either to attend the special events, dinners and parties, because this night isn’t just about slipping into a comfy bed you didn’t have to make yourself. Please note that you must be an Amsterdam resident to participate.

13-14 JANUARY Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl

© JAN VERSWEYVELD ©JAN VERSWEYVELD

CHOCOA

SURTITLED ON 25 JANUARY AND 1 FEBRUARY Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 tga.nl

13 AND 14 JANUARY Various locations hotelnacht.nl

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stedelijk base

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

State of the art

Stedelijk director Beatrix Ruf may be gone, but her vision remains.

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text Lauren Comiteau

I

n December, the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam reopened its new and improved Stedelijk Base to the public after more than a year of reconfiguration.

Some 750 artworks that trace the forward motion of art and design from the late 19th century until present times – from Van Gogh, Mondrian and Rietveld to Warhol, Koons and Dumas – will get a permanent home in the refurbished ‘bathtub’ base that former Stedelijk artistic director Beatrix Ruf commissioned to give the building a clearer layout and display more of the museum’s vast permanent collection.

COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM, LOAN FROM RIJKSDIENST VOOR DE CULTUREEL ERFGOED

MARC CHAGALL, LE VIOLONISTE (THE VIOLINIST) , 1912-1913. © MARC CHAGALL, C / O PICTORIGHT AMSTERDAM / CHAGALL®

COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM, GIFT VW VAN GOGH, LAREN (NL)

VINCENT VAN GOGH, AUGUSTINE ROULIN (LA BERCEUSE) (AUGUSTE ROULIN ((THE CRADLE)) , 1889.

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‘Society…wants to see far more works in our collection taken out of storage and put on display,’ Ruf said of what is now the largest presentation of the Stedelijk’s collection.

‘Our goal is not to be a static museum, but to be a dynamic, perpetually self-renewing institute, and always maximise our visitors’ experience.’

A NEW VISION To that end, the typical room-to-room museum experience has been replaced in the massive Base by a Rem Koolhuis-designed circuit with self-standing walls that allow visitors to

roam freely through the mixed-medium space.

That Ruf herself is not there to see the final realisation of her vision is bittersweet.

The artistic director abruptly stepped down in October after reports of a possible conflict of interest between her high-profile publically-funded job at the Stedelijk and her private art dealings. She maintains it’s a ‘misunderstanding’.

Either way, the museum is presenting the Stedelijk Base as the ‘final element to manifest the vision of Beatrix Ruf.’ ‘Nine out of ten new directors want to change something,’ says Arno

Verkade, managing director of Christie’s Amsterdam and Germany, of Ruf ’s efforts to leave her mark.

‘The Stedelijk is such an important institution for our city.’

GROWING PAINS It wasn’t the first controversy to roil the waters in the iconic ‘bathtub’, which opened in 2012 after a mammoth renovation that had seen the Stedelijk closed for eight years. The latest refurbishment went months over schedule and was criticised for closing the basement yet again to the public for a couple of months before the opening.

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don’t miss these

‘I understand the trauma, but give us a chance,’ Ruf said at the time, calling the redesign ‘indispensable’. The Stedelijk has said the delay was due to complications regarding technical aspects of the overhaul.

NEW LEASE ON LIFE But now that it’s open, art and design live side by side in a way that Ruf said allows the museum to use its ‘collection to tell the stories relevant to today, with even greater impact’. In a three-pronged approach, the building is divided into distinct zones: the Stedelijk Base displays the museum’s icons in the

Skating the canals of Amsterdam is an enchanting but rare treat, as it takes four days at sub-zero temperatures for the ice to reach safe thickness levels. In the meantime, aficionados must not despair: Amsterdam has three delightful outdoor rinks. In Oost, the Jaap Eden complex, home to the Amstel Tigers hockey team, has an indoor rink and a giant, 400m outdoor rink that opens from October to March.

Their Saturday disco nights is the perfect excuse to finally don that sequined costume.

ICE* Amsterdam on Museumplein is a lot of fun for the whole family, usually open until 22:00, and until 7 January, Stadshart Amstelveen also mutates into a kitsch winter wonderland with a rink.

jaapeden.nl, iceamsterdam.nl, wintervillageamstelveen.nl

basement; Stedelijk Turns is on the ground floor and features the collection arranged along topical and thematic lines; and the temporary exhibitions space Stedelijk Now is located on the first floor.

The museum’s entrance has also been refurbished into a more welcoming meeting space under the guidance of original designers Benthem Crouwel Architects.

Ruf ’s tenure at the Stedelijk was a short three years, but her legacy is set to last a lot longer. ‘We value what she did for the Stedelijk,’ one employee told me. ‘It’s amazing.’

One of the most exciting events in horse dressage takes place in RAI Amsterdam from 25 to 28 January, for the Reem Acra FEI World Cup. In addition to the spectacular jumping competitions and award ceremonies, the grand show also includes a programme chock-full of equine entertainment both inside and outside the arena – organised by the trick-riding team The Future Guys, who will dazzle with breathtaking stunts and Western and rodeo-style riding.

With more than 60 exhibitors, live music and great food, and special shows for children, there’s many opportunities for all enthusiasts to horse around.

© JAN VERSWEYVELD ©JAN VERSWEYVELD

JUMPING AMSTERDAM

COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

GERRIT RIETVELD, RED-BLUE CHAIR , 1919-1923 [DESIGN] CA. 1950 [EXECUTION]. C / O PICTORIGHT AMSTERDAM.

ICE-SKATING

25-28 JANUARY Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein jumpingamsterdam.nl

NATIONAL TULIP DAY Only the Dutch would grow hundreds of thousands of flowers completely out of season, and then transform Dam Square into a fairy-tale, festive garden from which anyone can come pick their own multi-coloured bouquet. The city’s royal plaza will be adorned by 1.7 billion flowers, ready to be shared with visitors. For the official launch of tulip season, the growers also organise surprises, special events and promotions.

While the event starts at 13:00, show up early to see the elaborate garden being set up, as early as 8:00. The best part? It’s all free!

20 JANUARY Dam Square

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Chinese New Year

Happy year of the dog text George King

© VINCENT PONTET

T Love, in the dead of winter text Lily Heaton

B

aby, it’s cold outside: are you in need of a few creative ways to stay warm during the darkest months of the year? While snuggling up to your sweetheart is an option, culture can keep you warm (or hot…) too, especially if you’re keen to have your heartstrings pulled by a couple of timeless love stories. This season, Amsterdam’s stages present two romantic tragedies that have been retold too many times to count (but not enough to stop enjoying). They will entertain the sadist, the hopeless romantic and everyone in between, in these throwbacks to the good old days, when forbidden love existed… before the Internet.

Famed director Pierre Audi brings Wagner’s classic story Tristan and Isolde to the stage, for his last season with The National Opera. This Celtic tale follows an adulterous love triangle (square?) between, you guessed it, Tristan, Isolde, a second Isolde and King Mark, with musical accompaniment by the Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra. Drinking poison that turns out to be a love potion is not your typical bait-and-switch, but it seems to work in this everlasting

story. Note: Fans and dance enthusiasts alike will also enjoy the ballet version of this tale, coming to The National Ballet later this summer.

If that’s not enough drama for you, how about a bit of teenage angst and forbidden romance? The two teenagers from fair Verona, Romeo and Juliet, perhaps gave up too soon but continue to live on for centuries, this time at The Meervaart Theatre.

The Nieuw-West venue hosts the ballet version of this heart-wrenching Shakespearian tale on 14 January, performed by the highly acclaimed Tatarstan Ballet.

We’ve all been there – first come the earth-shattering highs and then, the heartbreaking lows. And that goes for the weather, too. But don’t follow in the footsteps of our heroes and reach for a vial of poison yet, spring is just around the corner!

TRISTAN AND ISOLDE 18 January-14 February National Opera, Amstel 3 operaballet.nl ROMEO & JULIET 14 January Meervaart Theatre, Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl

hough perpetually overlooked – particularly by local residents – Amsterdam’s Chinatown plays host to an intriguing mix of old and new, where wellknown oriental supermarkets and family-run restaurants now rub shoulders with inviting bars and gleaming concept stores.

What’s more, this compact district is thought to be the oldest of its kind in Europe, with a community of Chinese seafarers first taking root on the Geldersekade, Zeedijk and a number of adjacent streets over a century ago.

These early settlers paved the way for newcomers of various nationalities, with today’s array of East Asian businesses contributing to a pronounced cosmopolitan feeling.

Within walking distance of Central Station, Chinatown’s networks of narrow lanes are more than worth exploring on any trip to the city. A good time to visit, however, is during the annual Chinese New Year festivities, when events take place on and around the bar-lined Nieuwmarkt, as well as across the Red Light

District and on Dam Square.

On the weekend of 16 February, expect to find costume-clad lion dancers winding their way through cobbled streets to a chorus of firecrackers, inviting prosperity and fortune into the year ahead. This procession typically passes the ornate facade of the Fo Guang Shan complex, a functioning Buddhist temple whose architectural features sit in stark contrast to the unmistakably Dutch buildings that surround it.

To watch festivities unfold, secure a window seat at one of the many traditional restaurants in the area, and usher in the Year of the Dog over jasmine tea and steaming baskets of dim sum.

For something more unconventional, why not learn how to whip up some oriental delicacies of your own? In 2009, the long-established Dun Yong supermarket opened a cooking studio on its second floor, offering a range of culinary classes. An introduction to Sichuan cuisine is planned for Sunday 18 February (though reservations are a must).

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THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

A year ago, Belle Dommage (born Miguel Matias, 32), brought his make-up and sequins from Lisbon, Portugal, to dazzle Amsterdam’s drag scene with his aerial moves. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘People often compliment my make-up’ 1. WHAT GOT YOU INTO DRAG? I was always involved in performance and theatre: I studied as a classical actor, but I thought…

‘That’s not quite it yet!’ and I turned to dancing and acrobatics. What really did it was the fourth season of RuPaul’s Drag Race. It was a ‘oh yes, I want to do this!’ revelation. The drag I do is a little bit alternative. Drag is about transforming yourself to resemble a woman as much as possible, but I like to take that a step further towards genderless or alien-like. I also always try to have something else happening on the stage in addition to lip-syncing. I love it; I finally have a place where I can put together all the things I enjoy without having to take anything too seriously.

2. HOW DID YOU END UP IN AMSTERDAM? I wanted to build a career of doing drag, and in Portugal it’s a bit

complicated. I felt stuck, like I had a potential that I couldn’t develop. I first came to Amsterdam as a bit of an impulse, three years ago, on vacation mode, and I fell in love with the city. I like to live in a peaceful environment, but be close to the mess, and Amsterdam is very much like that. As soon as you walk a little bit away from the centre, it’s like a village, with nature, canals…

But it’s also a multicultural environment with a lot of energy.

3. WHAT ARE THE MAIN DIFFERENCES? In Portugal, there wasn’t much violence, but I was nervous to be on public transport with my face made up. Here I feel safe, people even compliment my make-up!

What I like most is the openmindedness. People also really value your work. In just one year I was able to start a growing career. I can now quit my day job and focus on performing as a drag queen and aerialist; and I

teach classes in trapeze and aerial hoops and silks at two different studios (Dance For Your Pole near Westerpark and Pole Dance Factory in Oost).

4. WHERE DO YOU HANG OUT? Working at night in bars, I am rather a homebody the rest of the time! But whenever I have a special occasion, I’ll go to the places where I perform, because they feel like home, like Club NYX, or Amstel 54 in the centre. They’re very cosy and friendly, everybody is welcome there. Club Church is probably the place I’ll go to have more fun, on Drag Night (Thursdays) – they treat me like family.

5. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE NEIGBOURHOODS? When I first got here, I was always lost because all the streets look alike and the city is distributed in such a confusing way! I walked around a lot with my map. I often go to Oosterpark,

and I love the vintage markets such as Waterlooplein and Noordermarkt.

6. WHERE DO YOU SHOP FOR ALL YOUR FABULOUS ACCESSORIES? I make a lot of my costumes myself, even when I buy readymade outfits. Most of the materials I get from the Albert Cuypmarkt. There is a shop, Jan, that sells sewing materials, like fabrics, bedazzling things, buttons… etc.

7. IS AMSTERDAM HOME? For now I plan on staying; I feel very happy, welcome and well-treated. It’s the heart of Europe so if I start to work abroad, it will be easy to get around. I have a very nice drag family now, it’s a community that really helps each other out.

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time.

Oscar Season

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Anywhere but here

© 2017-TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION

text Bregtje Schudel

T

he Academy Awards aren’t really known for being ahead of the curve; 2017 saw a muchneeded course correction after two years of #OscarsSoWhite. After a year filled with political turmoil, the Academy is back in escapism mode, where a lot of the big contenders want to be anywhere but here, preferring even the battle-scarred beaches of Dunkirk to the bleak reality of today.

Some, like Dunkirk, dive into history.

To be more precise, to the times when truth still prevailed and when leaders actually led. Movies like The Post, a once-in-a-lifetime collaboration between Steven Spielberg, Meryl Streep and Tom Hanks, about the publication of the incendiary Pentagon Papers in 1971, which proved that the government had deliberately lied about important aspects of the Vietnam War. And Darkest Hour with a great turn for Gary Oldman as Winston Churchill, who must decide if he will fight or fold

in the battle against Hitler.

LOVE STORIES Other movies, like Lady Bird by Greta Gerwig, opt for telling unique, small-scale stories about love and adolescence. Equal parts erotic and nostalgic, Call Me By Your Name follows the enchanting first love of teenager Elio (Timothée Chalamet) with twenty-something Oliver (Armie Hammer). Even more magical is The Shape of Water, a dark fairy tale for troubled times by Guillermo del Toro, a singular love story between a mute cleaning lady (Sally Hawkins) and her underwater prince (Doug Jones).

Two movies, however, aren’t looking away. Mudbound (available on Netflix) may be a period drama set in the Jim Crow South, but its exploration of the relationships between men and women, rich and poor and, especially, black and white in American society feels all too familiar.

CONTENDERS The movie to beat will be Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri, written and directed by Martin McDonagh (In Bruges). A dark comedy about Mildred (Frances McDormand, who should nab her second Oscar), a divorced mother who decides to take into her own hands the investigation of the death of her daughter. The actors elevate an already brilliant script (Woody Harrelson co-stars as the town’s beloved sheriff), which gives each character proper shading. Mildred isn’t exactly heroic, just very determined. The movie has all the ingredients for a major cluster-fuck (with ample help from a bumbling redneck cop played by Sam Rockwell), yet it evolves into something much more thought-provoking and redemptive. If even the movie’s two biggest antagonists manage to find some common ground, maybe there’s still hope for us all.

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highlight

nightlife essentials

Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

Score!

I

t is a truth universally acknowledged that film music is much more than background filling. What would Jaws be without the ominous two note soundscape by John Williams? Or Hitchcock classics like Psycho and Vertigo without the brilliant scores by Bernard Herrmann?

Slowly but surely, live film music has become big business in the Netherlands (as anywhere else), with packed live performances of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and Abel Gance’s Napoléon, and where master composers like Ennio Morricone and Hans Zimmer can fill the Ziggo Dome just as easily as headliners Lady Gaga and Radiohead.

This February, the film music fan will certainly get its fill in Amsterdam. For film with live music, go to (the silent version) of Alfred Hitchcock’s Blackmail at Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, with musical accompaniment by The Metropole Orchestra.

Het Concertgebouw ups the ante with three filmthemed concerts. There will be the performance

by Randy Newman, which, besides songs from his newest album Dark Matter, will also revisit the music of some of his most famous film scores (he was the composer for Toy Story, Cars and The Princess and the Frog). Celebrate Valentine’s Day with Classics at the Movies, another homage to famous classical music that graced the big screen, from Rossini’s ‘La Gazza Ladra’ (Clockwork Orange, Once Upon a Time in America) to the ‘Boléro’ (10) by Maurice Ravel.

Last, but not least, will be the fifth edition of the Avond van de Filmmuziek (Night of Film Music), three consecutive nights filled with the best music cinema has on offer. With music from Moonlight, Interstellar and many, many more.

14 FEBRUARY Classics at the Movies Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10 concertgebouw.nl 22 FEBRUARY Randy Newman: Dark Matter Tour Concertgebouw

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23 FEBRUARY Blackmail Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1 muziekgebouw.nl

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27 & 28 FEBRUARY AND 1 MARCH De Avond van de Filmmuziek Concertgebouw

guests from around the world, ensuring a vibrant language-no-problem selection.

Brighten up your winter by Alongside the main perforexploring the latest edition mances, there are late-night of the Amsterdam Light Fes- shows, workshops, IMPRO tival. From 17:00 to 23:00 talks, an open stage and an each night, light art brings afterparty to top it all off. colour, technological innova- 20-27 JANUARY tion and artistic flair to icon- Compagnietheater ic spots throughout the city Kloveniersburgwal 50  centre – all on or beside the impro-amsterdam.nl canals. To make the most of these works, take to the water for a dedicated festival HOUSE DANCE cruise. This edition also sees FOREVER a special route open up in This international dance battle the Marineterrein, just east pits top talents from the urban of Central Station. Here you‘ll find 20 artworks best and hip-hop dance scenes against each other. A sister explored on foot (until 7 contest of the Summer Dance January).

UNTIL 21 JANUARY Forever festival, this event is Various locations about super tunes, big beats amsterdamlightfestival.com and cool dance moves. The Saturday event is followed up THE IMPOSSIBLE by the Juste Debout Holland VOYAGE dance battles on the Sunday.

3-4 FEBRUARY The Impossible Voyage is a Paradiso, six-hour musical journey Weteringschans 6-8  through the oeuvres of three pivotal composers: summerdanceforever.com Ludwig van Beethoven, Benjamin Britten and Dmitri WONDERLAND Shostakovich. Their works FESTIVAL will be brought to life by Put the romance of Valthree talented stringed entine’s Day behind you as quartets: the Cuarteto the Wonderland Festival inCasals (Spain), the Quatuor vites you to follow the white Danel (France) and the Doric rabbit, serving up a menu of String Quartet (UK). rumbling house and techno 2 FEBRUARY beats for those with a passion Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ for all things EDM. Piet Heinkade 1  17 FEBRUARY muziekgebouw.nl Warehouse Elementenstraat, Elementenstraat 25  HORTUS BY LIGHT verknipt.org Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus is always stunning, STUKAFEST thanks to its beautiful disThis annual festival sees stuplays of fauna, foliage and dent’s rooms transformed into plant life. But this promini-theatres, hosting live mugramme invites attendees to sic, shows, poetry, cabaret and see the garden in a whole dance performances. Much of new light – after dark! Enjoy the drama/spoken word proa beautifully illuminated gar- gramming will be in Dutch, den, a winter terrace with a but you'll also find a host of campfire – glass of mulled language-no-problem content. wine in hand – or follow the 21 FEBRUARY after-dark trail of lights.

Various locations UNTIL 7 JANUARY stukafest.nl Hortus Amsterdam, Plantage Middenlaan 2  LUMINOSITY TRANCE dehortus.nl GATHERING Step into the time machine IMPRO AMSTERDAM and feel euphoric like in the glory days of trance, as if EDM Featuring world-class imnever happened. prov actors from all over the 16 FEBRUARY globe, this improvisation Panama, Oost. Handelskade 4  theatre festival welcomes luminosity-events.nl

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

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PART II

Featured artist

‘Van Gogh becomes a legend in my heart’ text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

ZENG FANZHI Born: 1964, Wuhan (China) Talent: Expressionist painter Zeng Fanzhi started his artistic career after the Chinese Cultural Revolution. Inspired by the German Expressionist movement, he dug inspiration from the emotional and physical upheavals of his own life – and using the social turmoil of his home country as a backdrop. One of his first acclaimed series explored the gloom of patients’ lives in hospitals. His work took a turn after he moved to Beijing in the mid-’90s, featuring different techniques and a more stylised and colourful approach. While less angry, his paintings still resonate with a deep anxiety, which especially shines through his subjects’ eyes and facial expressions, as well as the distance he inflicts on them from the background. He remains one of the most popular artists of his generation, exhibited all over the world, and even setting auction records: his painting ‘Mask Series 1996 No. 6’ was sold for $9.6 million in Hong Kong.

His latest work is the creation of four paintings especially for the Van Gogh Museum, on show until 5 March. He gives his own interpretation of the master’s works, with some of his signature colours and swirly lines. ‘The more I paint, the stronger the impression I get that Van Gogh is like a character from a fairy tale. I cannot explain why.’ No need for explanations: his electrifying paintings speak for themselves.

UNTIL 5 MARCH Van Gogh Museum Museumplein 6 vangoghmuseum.nl

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Language, please

The beginners’ guide to Amsterdam’s international cultural life text Ana V. Martins

Boom Chicago

I

f you don’t speak a word of the native language, Amsterdam’s rich, innovative cultural scene may seem intimidating.

But fear not: with more than half of its population currently composed of foreigners, the city has not forgotten its international public. First of all, Amsterdam’s wide palette of residents translates into a multitude of cultural flavours: the Balkan parties at OCCI, the Latin-American concerts at De Pepper (OT301), the Portuguese literary events at Teatro Munganga, and the Turkish concerts and performances at Podium Mozaiek, amongst many others.

FROM SUBTITLES...

Besides this diversity, renowned institutions have been making an effort to cater to the city’s international public. Such is the case with the Toneelgroep Amsterdam (TGA), housed at the eminent Stadsschouwburg, with a weekly performance of their plays presented with English surtitles. Five of their

Toneelgroep Amsterdam

world-renowned productions are on show in January and February, including the critically-acclaimed The Fountainhead. Other companies such as the Orange Tea Theatre Company or the International Theatre in English have an exclusively English-spoken repertoire. As for the silver screen, Cinecenter and Cinema Lab111 (amongst others) regularly host evenings of ‘expat cinema’. ... TO ENGLISH-LANGUAGE The storytelling movement in the city is also, for the most part, English-spoken, with Mezrab (the initiative of an Iranian family) as its forerunner. Labyrinth hosts poetry nights, storytellings and spoken word, all expatoriented. There’s a dynamic comedy scene going on as well, pioneered by the well-established Boom Chicago. Other popular venues such as Comedy Café and Toomler host regular comedy nights in English (and even international comedy festivals, such as

Comedy

IMPRO Amsterdam from 20-27 Jan), but smaller places like De Nieuwe Anita, MixTree and The Paleis van de Weemoed also often invite comedians who’ll do their bit in the language of Shakespeare.

Pakhuis de Zwijger presents a regular programme of English-spoken (or subtitled) documentaries and talks on urban topics and global trends. And there’s more, plenty more.

Most of the cultural offer at the more alternative venues is English-spoken, and many others are ‘language no problem’. Check the NieuwLand, the Vondelbunker, the OT301, Joe’s Garage, or the free havens of ADM or Ruigoord.

If you’ve just gone from feeling left out to overwhelmed by the variety of choice, you can join organisations like Amsterdam Culture Club, where a membership affords you not only a front-row seat to Amsterdam’s English-language cultural scene, but also exclusive backstage tours and meet-andgreets with performers.

FAVOURITE SPOT AT REMBRANDTPLEIN

Rembrandtplein 17-I, 1017 CT AMSTERDAM 020 - 62 52 011 | www.dekroon.nl open daily from 4 PM until late

The best kept secret of

Rembrandtplein 17 | 1017 CT Amsterdam | 020 - 45 00 555 | www.vanrijnamsterdam.nl

open daily from 10 AM

jan & feb 2018

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘PEOPLE IN AMSTERDAM ARE VERY FRIENDLY – KIND, EVEN.’

Au pairs Jeysseril and Riza have found a new welcoming home in the Netherlands

32 38 40 42 44 45

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: AMSTELVEEN EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT‘S IN STORE COLUMN

WINTER LIGHT ON PAMPUS For a unique Amsterdam dining experience, hop on the ferry to Fort Island Pampus every Friday and Saturday evening. After a smooth 40-minute sail on the beautiful IJmeer lake, admiring the icy winter landscapes, you’ll be welcomed by the warmth of campfires. From there, the adventure begins: explore the dark corridors, mysterious nooks and crannies, and the beautiful domes of the historic fortress, especially decorated with lightworks. Tasty starters and hors d’oeuvres are served in three different rooms of the Fort, followed by the main course and dessert, prepared from local and sustainable gourmet ingredients, offered in the cosy pavilion. After dinner, you can continue to explore the island, enjoying coffee or beer by the light of the campfires which keep burning all night. (Please note: reservations are required, and this is a very popular event.)

Every Friday and Saturday evening Fort Island Pampus pampus.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

AMSTELVEEN

RIZA BARAQUIL, 23, & JEYSSERIL MAKINANO, 27 Au pairs

‘It’s very nice here, people are very friendly – kind, even. We come from the Philippines, and it’s great to have so many shops with genuine Asian products.

You can’t find them easily outside of Amstelveen.’

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Amsterdam’s quiet suburban neighbour packs a surprising punch, with a bustling cultural life, cosy vibe and lush greenery that attract internationals in their droves. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock

The sexy neighbour

F

ew capitals can brag about their appealing neighbours as much as Amsterdam, which is graced with a wide and popular metropolitan area. In the south lies a coy suburban town that doesn’t appear on many radars, in spite of its myriad of alluring qualities such as culture, architecture, shopping and vast green expanses. The only explanation we can think of is that the locals are greedily safeguarding the secret because they want it all to themselves.

The cat seems to be out of the bag, though, as Amstelveen has been booming in recent years. Close to Schiphol Airport and adjacent to the business district of Zuidas, it’s wildly attractive to many companies and industries. It’s home to KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, for example, as well as giant multinationals like Ricoh, KPMG and Canon. With these have come an influx of expats from all over the world, especially from Asia.

Thanks to them, Amstelveen boasts an incredibly multicultural flair, reflected in its infrastructures (it is home to many international schools) and its cultural initiatives, like the Cherry Blossom Festival in spring, the busiest Diwali Festival in the country, and, this season, grand festivities for Chinese New Year.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME ‘It really is the expat city of the Amsterdam region,’ says Tom van Dijk of the city council. As an example, he cites the markets ripe with stalls offering authentic foods and wares from India, Japan and Korea: ‘The Friday market is renowned for its Japanese fresh fish stand run by a guy in a kimono,’ says Van Dijk. The town also has heaps of specialty shops that are worth the detour when you’re looking for genuine products from faraway places, such as Japanese-Korean deli Shilla. ‘It’s very easy for us to find food from home,’ say Jeysseril Makinano and Riza Baraquil, both au pairs from the Philippines, who add that they feel very welcome in the quiet town filled not only with internationals, but also friendly locals. And the fare isn’t limited to Asian products: on Amsterdamseweg, cherished Indonesian fast-food joint Toko Madjoe counts French bakery Le Fournil and Italian deli Pane E Vino as close neighbours – just a few of the many reasons why Amsterdammers make the easy trip to visit their southern friend. Amstelveen is very well connected by the public transport network: metro line 51, tram 5 and many buses will get you to the heart of the action in a jiffy.

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Amstelveen boasts an incredibly multicultural flair reflected in its infrastructures and its cultural initiatives ’

MUSEUM JAN VAN DER TOGT In the heart of Amstelveen’s Old Village lies the Museum Jan van der Togt, home to a ravishing collection of glass works and contemporary visual art. The museum is one of the most prominent private institutions for modern art in the Netherlands, with new temporary exhibitions of either established or promising artists every six weeks. Currently on show are a retrospective on Ans Markus’ explorations of grief (until 7 Jan), Modern Japanese lacquer art (until 28 Jan), and an exhibition of Chinese-American Walasse Ting’s paintings, who spent several years living and working in Amsterdam (from 3 Feb).

Dorpsstraat 50 jvdtogt.nl

ď ą

THE HEART OF THE ACTION Some come from even further away to visit the Stadshart (the ‘Town’s Heart’), a bustling shopping centre, which was awarded the title of Best Shopping Mall in the Netherlands twice in the past few years. ‘I come here all the way from Uithoorn’, says Cindy Tangerman, her arms laden with shopping bags, Ă la Pretty Woman. ‘It’s very convenient to ďŹ nd so many shops together, many of which you won’t ďŹ nd anywhere else. It’s a dream at Christmas time!’ The shopping centre features almost 150 boutiques altogether, and a plethora of cafĂŠs, restaurants and fast-food joints.

Yet the cheer and energy are not as overwhelming as Amsterdam’s centre can be.

Right across the street lies the Schouwburg, the town’s cultural hub, which is often featured in this magazine because of its quality programming. With a couple of auditoriums and a cinema, it offers a huge selection of entertainment, from theatre and opera to concerts and movies – many of which are ‘language no problem’ or even with surtitles, to cater to an international audience. Pop podium P60, right next door, is a hustling mecca of pop that hosts more than 200 concerts per year, as well as many art exhibitions.

The centrally-located CoBrA Museum is not only THE place to go to admire the most eminent artworks of the mid-century movement, but also temporary exhibitions of illustrious artists such as Le Corbusier (until 7 January). A bit further away but worth the detour, Museum Jan van der Togt is the local temple for modern art, where you’ll discover prominent Dutch and international artists of many faiths, from painting to sculpture and ceramics.

TOWN AND COUNTRY Museum Jan van der Togt is located in Oude Dorp (‘The Old Village’), the oldest part of

SCHOUWBURG The Schouwburg is Amstelveen’s cultural nerve centre, with a theatre, cinema and conference room that offer every form of entertainment for all audiences: from music, opera and ballet to ďŹ lm, and even cabaret and musicals. Upcoming programming includes a concert by American band The Fortunate Sons (19 January), dance opera DIDO DIDO (10 February) and a magic show. Many performances are ‘language no problem’ or even surtitled.

Stadsplein 100 schouwburgamstelveen.nl

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TOKO MADJOE

STADSHART

It looks like any other hole-inthe-wall from the outside, but don’t judge this book by its cover: Toko Madjoe is the ultimate place to go for amazing Indonesian food at incredibly reasonable prices. The 25-year-old catering joint’s secret is fresh, high-quality ingredients, and obviously a collection of tremendous family recipes, which include all the staple entrées such as sates and sambals, but also soups, appetisers and snacks.

This shopping centre is home to big, popular brands such as Zara, Massimo Dutti, G-Star Women, Starbucks and Superdry as well as De Bijenkorf. In 2013 and 2015, it was even awarded ‘Best Shopping Mall of the Netherlands’. There‘s also a great selection of restaurants and cultural entertainment. And, until 7 Jan, Stadshart’s central square is home to a Winter Village that sports a respectable-sized ice-skating rink and stalls of cold-weather treats.

Amsterdamseweg 183 tokomadjoe.nl

stadshartamstelveen.nl

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

AMSTERDAMSE BOS The initial idea behind the design of the lush, enchanting Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) was to leave no area off-limits. A very elaborate network for pedestrians, cyclists and equestrians was constructed to allow all visitors access to every rolling meadow, wooded cove or tranquil pond of the thousand-hectare park – which was entirely created by hand in the 1930s. The Bos is large enough that you can easily spend the day strolling through woods or grasslands, surrounded by wild flowers and animals, sometimes crossing a stream but nary a soul. Picnic spots abound, as do refreshment stands and restaurants; and even a couple of petting farms that serve delicious pancakes on their sunny terraces. amsterdamsebos.nl

P60

There’s barely a handful of twoMichelin-starred restaurants in Amsterdam, and one of them is actually in Amstelveen – and, oh my! is it worth the detour. With its classy (but not ostentatious) black and gold interior, the atmosphere is set: felted, cosy and intimate, with the added bonus of a wide, green terrace overlooking the enchanting lake of the Amsterdamse Bos. The ever-changing six-course menu, concocted by genius chef Stefan van Sprang, focuses on seasonal ingredients that are magically married to add modern twists to flavourful classics: think marinated lobster with bacon and walnut, or grilled beef stew topped with foie gras and Jerusalem artichokes and morel sauce.

Handweg 1 aandepoel.nl

SHILLA A home away from home for a large part of the Asian population of Amstelveen, Shilla is more than an ‘exotic deli’ – it’s a sleek supermarket, purveyor of a large selection of the best Eastern products. Of course they have an entire wall of instant noodle soups, and an assortment of Japanese cookies, beers and chips; but they especially carry all the specialty products necessary to cook authentic Asian fare, be they fresh, canned or frozen. From staples like Japanese rice and green teas, to rare finds like dry black mushrooms or radish, they’ve got it all.

Westwijkplein 62

© MAURICE FRANSEN

AAN DE POEL

Home to all the latest cultural Amstelveen events, P60 features a concert hall and several rehearsal studios. Yearly the trendy venue hosts around 200 concerts, club nights, workshops and other events, focusing on both young, emerging artists and popular, established talents. It is also home to a bar-restaurant, making it the hotspot where the town keeps its finger on the pulse of the contemporary culture scene.

Upcoming shows include a local metal night (11 Jan), a tribute to Led Zeppelin (21 Jan) and IndieFair (27 Jan).

Stadsplein 100A P60.nl

37

>

Civil servant

‘I work around here and I love the place, it has so many public green areas. I like to go for walks during lunch, especially in the spring, when the cherry trees blossom in the Bos.’

CINDY TANGERMAN, 32 Stay-at-home mum

‘I come all the way from Uithoorn for the shopping. It’s very convenient to find so many shops together, many of which you won’t find anywhere else. It’s a dream at Christmas time!’

meadows in the Dr. Koos Landwehrpark.

The three parks have such unique features that they have gained monument status.

A LOVELY BIKE RIDE At its eastern border, Amstelveen follows the Amstel River, which is lovely to cycle alongside on a sunny day – from Amstelzijde, with magnificient views of historical Ouderkerk on the other side of the river, all the way up north to Rembrandts Windmill (Rieker Molen) and the Zorgvlied, a cemetery that Van Dijk compares to Paris’ Père Lachaise: ‘All the famous people of Amsterdam are buried here.’ (PS: Did you know that Amstelveen gave us actress and director Famke Janssen, and superstar DJ Martin Garrix?)

With so many enticing qualities, from its welcoming multicultural spirit and its lively, dynamic centre, to its quaint historical districts and vast, cherished green havens, it’s no surprise that in a quick century, Amstelveen has grown from a small rural village to one of the most coveted places of residence of the entire region.

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TIMO VLIJM, 45

Amstelveen, where cobbled streets and quaint wonky houses are reminiscent of Amsterdam – but with that true village feel – and the highest concentration of restaurants in town. The Old Village is just a stone’s throw away from the Amsterdamse Bos, a park intelligently designed to keep its more populated areas along a central axis, and packed with activities that range from football and hockey fields to horse manèges or Olympic-size rowing lanes. You can play tennis, rent a canoe, zipline between the immense trees, or simply have a swim in one of the park’s many ponds (maybe later this summer…). Or you can wander through its wooded coves, meadows and rolling hills, hoping to run into its famous Highland cattle.

But the Bos is not the only green abode; if the entire town is leafy and flowery, it’s also famous for its three heemparks (botanical gardens), treasure troves of rare indigenous plants. You can wander in a typical Dutch polder landscape with pollard willows and reed lands in De Braak, stroll through the romantic ‘garden rooms’ in the Dr. Jac P. Thijssepark, or admire the rare Molinia

COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Modern and contemporary art go hand-in-hand here. The museum houses a large permanent collection from the CoBrA movement, but also showcases a wide range of temporary exhibitions of avant-garde art.

Currently on show is a magnificent exhibition of Le Corbusier (until 7 Jan) and The Alto Natives (until 25 Feb).

Sandbergplein 1 cobra-museum.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

BOUGAINVILLE Perched over Dam Square in Amsterdam’s plushest new hotel, the city’s most talked-about opening offers globally inspired gastronomy, perfectly-paired wines and seamless service. With a kitchen led by Executive Chef Pascal Jalhay (once the youngest two-star chef in the Netherlands), the talented Chef Tim Golsteijn, and the award-winning Wine Director, Lendl Meinheimer, they’ve certainly assembled a top team.

In a setting rich in Rubelli silks and velvets, dripping with copper and gold, you’d expect heavy food with a lot of truffle and foie gras, but extravagance may just as easily come from exclusive products such as Miral duck (cooked sous vide, spiced with powdered liquorice, and served with a sauce of dried red beet and cherries, a rejig of a Jalhay-classic at Vermeer*) as it does from meticulous methods of preparation. ‘At Bougainville, the accent is on finding the best (local) ingredients,’ says Jalhay, ‘searching for tones instead of flavours, creating an emotion.’ Imagine, if you will, a porcelain cloche being lifted to reveal a sliver of slightly scorched red mullet sitting in a clear fennel broth on a blue and white porcelain plate with perfectly plump mussels and a single saffron-scented raviolo, so slight you can see through it. Alongside, 100% Viognier served in a stemless glass, so your hands gently warm the wine as you drink it. Add to that some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in Amsterdam, and you know it’s a winner.

So does it live up to its hype? While it’s early days yet, we think it’s safe to say that Bougainville has a starry future ahead of it.



Dam 27 restaurantbougainville.com

NEW

eating out



39 trendy HELST For a tap list filled with limited editions and small-batch brews, as well as rising stars, seasonal- and classic craft beers and bangin’ beertails, make your way to this wonderful De Pijp watering hole and gastropub, run by the fervent folk behind craft beer shop Bierbaum around the corner. Open from lunch until late, with a menu of beer-friendly foods (ribs, burgers, steaks), in-the-know service and an on-trend decor, it’s no surprise that this next-gen beer café already counts many local brewmasters among its fans.

Eerst van der Helststraat 72 thewateringhole.nl

critic’s choice PRINZ WOLF

T

he Netherlands’ first ‘tartaria’ is the brainchild of Michael Wolf (ex-Vila Joya**, ex-Oud-Sluis***), who’s seen a similar lunchtime concept prove popular at his Westerdok restaurant Wolf Atelier. With six tartares in different sizes (from €10) and six varieties of oyster, it’s the ideal lunch or light dinner spot for food-loving friends, and because carb-rich sides like fries, bread and tartelettes are optional, it’s perfect for January-dieters too. And while there’s a trendy vegan tartare, we think the ‘classic’, with hand-chopped beef, yolky egg, herring caviar, sweet and sour onions, and mustard mayo is hard to beat.

Prinsengracht 411 prinzwolf.nl



classic KAAGMAN & KORTEKAAS

quick & simple PAR HASARD Behind a red door in the hip Amsterdam-West, you’ll find quality local café favourites and hand-cut Flemish fries served casually at shared wooden tables. Do try the new zoervlees croquettes: we’re told the traditional beef stew filling is authentically made by owner Xander Hasaart’s very own mother in Maastricht.

Food miles be damned!

Douwes Dekkerstraat 22 Also: Ceintuurbaan 113-115 cafeparhasard.nl

With a combined CV that includes revered restaurants such as Bordewijk, Visaandeschelde, Rijsel and Toscanini, Amsterdam epicures have been happily placing themselves in the practised hands of chef Giel Kaagman and sommelier Bram Kortekaas for the past two years. Down a slim alley near Dam Square, there’s a multi-level restaurant with distressed walls and a simple decor set around a recessed kitchen, providing plenty of opportunities to gawk at the gastro bistro action. While the creative five-course chef’s menu (€52.50) changes regularly, there’s always a harmonious medley of surprising ingredients and traditional techniques, with house-made charcuterie, seafood, venison and veal regularly featuring.

Sint Nicolaasstraat 43 kaagmanenkortekaas.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

food & drink festivals

resolution-friendly

pigging out

L&B WHISKY WEEKEND AMSTERDAM

BETER & LEUK

PIGS & PUNCH

With an ‘eat good food’ ethos expressed in its name (which means ‘better & nice’) and a menu of nutty fruit granola, oatmeal scones with coconut yoghurt, Korean rice bowls and hearty vegan/ gluten-free sandwiches, this Oost-based eatery is the daytime place to stick to your resolutions. The vegan carrot cake and rooibos cappuccinos are very good too.

For some of the city’s best ribs, heartiest pork cheeks and premium punches, trot on over to this new restaurant dedicated to all things piggy. With the folks behind pioneering speakeasy Door 74 responsible for the cocktails here, you know you’re in good hands. Order for a group, and you may get your punch served in a baby bathtub.

Eerste Oosterparkstraat 91 beterenleuk.nl

Utrechtsestraat 30A pigsandpunch.nl

JACKS JUICE & KITCHEN

ROTISSERIE AMSTERDAM

This ‘boutique juice bar’ with its contemporary living room vibe and loud soundtrack serves a wide range of freshly prepared juices, healthy shakes, acai bowls and hearty sandwiches – with the calorie count of each item clearly listed on the menu.

Looking for an insta-detox?

Try the vitamin-boosting ‘Hangover Killer’, with passion fruit, apple and ginger.

Priding itself on taking the ‘junk’ out of junk food with from-scratch cooking using premium ingredients, Rotisserie’s a great place to gratify those guilty pleasures.

There’s succulent spit-roasted chicken (from €10) and a snack platter called ‘Fucking Everything’ (wings, ribs, onion rings and fried chicken, €24).

Ferdinand Bolstraat 48 jacksjuicebar.com

Beukenplein 17; Also: De Clercqstraat 81 rotisserieamsterdam.nl

DIGNITA

SEA PALACE

Head south for a bang-on allday brunch that goes way beyond smashed avo. The courgette and chickpea fritters with grilled halloumi, minty yoghurt, yolky poached eggs and cashew nut dukkah alone is worth the trip but there are also smoothies and gluten-free granola bowls.

Bonus: 100% of the profits go to a good cause.

You’d be forgiven for thinking that this three-storey floating Chinese pagodastyle restaurant is a tourist trap, but if it’s comfort of the Cantonese kind you crave – crispy pork belly, perfect Peking duck pancakes and some of the city’s very best dim sum – you really can’t go wrong here.

Whiff up a world of whisky culture in a 19th-century neo-Gothic church in the gorgeous Jordaan district, where you’ll find over 30 stands, workshops and tastings on 19-20 January. If the ticket price (€32.50) is a little hard to swallow, remember it includes a welcome drink, a sampling glass, bottle of water, and plenty of free samplings inside.

Posthoornkerk, Haarlemmerstraat 124-126 whiskyamsterdam.nl

LITTLE ITALY: TASTE & TRAVEL Escape the dreary Dutch rain for a taste of the Italian sun for one weekend (2-4 Feb) when the Zuiveringshal at Westergasfabriek goes all-out la dolce vita. Go to find inspiration for your next holiday or simply to sample the finest Italian food and drink this side of the Alps.

Zuiveringshal, Westergasfabriek, Pazzanistraat 27 littleitaly-event.nl

CHOCOA FESTIVAL Considering that Amsterdam boasts the world’s largest cocoa port, it‘s no surprise it has a chocolatethemed festival (24-25 Feb), too. A ticket lets you meet celebrated chocolate makers and sample some of their finest wares, discover how chocolate is made from bean to bar, and learn the best pairings.

Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 chocoa.nl

Koninginneweg 218 eatwelldogood.nl

Oosterdokskade 8 seapalace.nl

trend

41

RAMEN Slurp, slurp…aaaah.

S

ure, hearty bowls of steaming Japanese noodle broth have been around for years in Amsterdam. Pioneering Hakataspecialist Ramen-Ya opened in the Centre in July 2014, rapidly followed

by Fou Fow Ramen, which first pumped out its squeaky-fresh ramen as a pop-up above Toko Dun Yong in Chinatown (now home to the equally impressive Taka Japanese Kitchen).

But, the recent rash of new ramen bars, many with a twist – from fully vegan to chicken specialists – makes it seem like the market’s far from saturated. In fact, we suspect things will only get more creative from here.

Our favourite? It really depends on what you want to order. For multilayered porcine goodness and chewy noodles that are a delight until the

very last bite, Sapporo Ramen Sora is unsurpassed. But the best cold-season cure-all has to be Tokyo Ramen Takeichi’s collagen-rich chicken bone broth with authentic Japanese noodles (in five variations, from simple soya to extra creamy and super spicy). And hat’s off to Men Impossible for making vegan ramen with a creamy mouthfeel that nicely balances salty and sweet.

SAPPORO RAMEN SORA Ceintuurbaan 49 ramensora.nl TOKYO RAMEN TAKEICHI Vijzelstraat 135 takeichi-ramen.com MEN IMPOSSIBLE Hazenstraat 19 facebook.com/MenImpossible

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Karin Engelbrecht

REBELLENCLUB

>

NEW IN TOWN

T

his ‘urban lifestyle store with an attitude’ combines owner Matthijs van Ewijk’s passion for music and home decor. With a career that took him from Sony Music and CNR Entertainment to Dutch DIY-store Karwei and Loods 5 home goods, it’s no surprise that one of the first products he imported was Crosley’s range of retro portable record players. The American brand’s since been replaced by Rebellenclub’s equally vintage-looking collab with Brit-

ish brand GPO: it’s a product that appeals to millennials of both sexes, something that’s leading in the store’s overall product selection, with plenty of neutral colours, natural materials and natty designs. Named after a Dutch comic book, Van Ewijk’s ‘rebels’ club aims to do things differently’ by giving upcoming local designers a podium and offering well-made products ‘with a story’ that’s also valuefor-money, sustainable and fairly produced. So, for example, there are reindeer moss letters and icons (just when you thought

vertical gardens couldn’t get any hipper) and posters of iconic rock stars like Bowie and Jagger by fledgling illustrator Lisa den Teuling. Tolhuijs Design’s edgy upcycled shelving units are made from recycled pallets and waste materials from gates, which are assembled and powder-coated

by Dutch prisoners. Can’t quite decide how to add all that cool quirk to your home? You’re in luck: the shop assistants are qualified stylists.

Haarlemmerdijk 120A rebellenclub.com

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fashion temple CHURCH OF LABELS

mind over matter AKASHA HOLISTIC WELLBEING CENTRE

Always heaving with the latest must-haves, this store in de Hallen is one to get evangelical about. For her, there’s a bubble cardi in soft pink virgin wool, as well as silver skinny pants, and for him, the coolest shades, and jeans that’ll fit to a T. There are also artisan scents from perfume houses such as Nobile 1942, Acca Kappa, Carner Barcelona and Morph Parfum. Or perhaps you’ll both fall in love with a prosecco-and-rose-scented Voluspa candle?

Ten Katestraat 67-71 (entry via de Hallen) churchoflabels.com

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A ‘ground-breaking’ new concept by Natura Bissé combines a hands-on treatment with a virtual reality video and mindfulness exercises for the ultimate relaxing experience. Ideal for people who just can’t get out of their heads, The Mindful Touch: Your Mindfulness Spa Experience aims to ‘connect all the senses’ with a ‘360-degree protocol’ to create a perfect balance of body and mind. Available to book as a €25 add-on to any Natura Bissé skincare treatment or massage, exclusively at Akasha.

Van Baerlestraat 27 conservatoriumhotel.com

damn delicious UGGA Named after the Hebrew word for ‘cake’, this new ‘urban bakery’ is the place to stop by for babkas, vegetarian burekas, rugelach, and challah (on Fridays), as well as ‘uggaccia’ (artichoke-studded focaccia), ‘uggies’ (salted chocolate cookies) and luscious loaf cakes. Israeli pastry chef Adva Rachamim (ex-The Duchess) says she uses ‘mainly classic French methods to make what I enjoy eating. Foods from my heritage, but also what comforts me and what I love.’

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Gerard Doustraat 103A facebook.com/uggaamsterdam

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

what's in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home.

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text Karin Engelbrecht

ATELIER DES FEMMES What started as designer Floor Bos’ quest to create the perfect feminine skirt suit, has since grown into a label with a knack for creating the ultimate version of the season’s statement pieces, from candy-striped pussy bows and black leather berets (€39.95) to blushcoloured velvet bandeaus (€19.95) that actually stay put.

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Herengracht 243 atelierdesfemmes.com

FELICE HOME OF BRANDS Situated on one of Amsterdam’s most interesting shopping streets, this address for design-savvy Scandi-Dutch decor, lifestyle and men’s and women’s products is a must-visit for geometric glass-and-black steel terrariums, post-industrial marble lamps, Alpaca plaids, minimalist jewellery, biker girl jackets and velvet men’s blazers.

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Gerard Doustraat 88 felicehomeofbrands.com

Any woman whose cups runneth over will know the dilemma: finding eye-pleasing lingerie that gives you the support you need without making you look like Aunt Ethel. At Betty’s Boops, you’ll discover size inclusive swimwear and bras (from 60-A to 100-O) from premium brands such as b.tempt’d, Freya, Elomi and Fantasie.

Ceintuurbaan 73 bettysboops.nl

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LISELORE FROWIJN One of Amsterdam’s most acclaimed upcoming designers, Liselore Frowijn uses fashion as a ‘medium to weave different threads captured from the arts, music and cultures together’. Her spring/summer 2018 collection features a medley of mad Mexican prints accented with silver eco leather made from pineapple. This girl is one to watch.

Online only liselorefrowijn.com

EENVOUD Combining traditional gold- and silversmithing techniques with contemporary silhouettes, this jam-packed Jordaan jewellery shop offers a good selection of delicate and chunky pieces, with plenty of quirky options too. We love the blood coral and gold lip rings (from €475) and the white on black cameo signets (€560).

Prinsengracht 310 eenvoud.net

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INC FASHION AMSTERDAM From Wolf & Rita’s cotton jersey onesies with oversized peanut photo-print flat collars for baby (€49) and playful ochre fake fur circle skirts for girls (€59) to CLOSED’s super-chic anthracite silk velvet blazers for mum (€299), this sustainable clothing boutique proves that environmentally-friendly can be fashion forward – if you can afford it.

Herenstraat 17

BETTY’S BOOPS

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ATELIERAMSTRDM This Dutch fashion brand is specialised in sustainably sourced exotic leather goods and high-quality fashion made with natural materials, such as silk and cotton.

Expect python print dresses, oversized blouses, black and grey striped jumpsuits, leather singlet tops and slouchy chain bags. Tip: check out the vintage sunglasses at the back of the store.

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Herengracht 360 atelieramstrdm.com

& OTHER STORIES At the Amsterdam outpost of H&M’s hipper hotter sister, which offers a wide range of products purposefully designed to go together but equally ready to stand on their own, this season brings blue crushed velvet wrap dresses, smocked leather gloves, geometric earrings, floral soft bras and dark tonka & suede-scented cosmetics.

Heiligeweg 26 stories.com

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When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

WIN

Five luck y read win a cop ers can y of the Amsterd am Cookb ook (€25 valu e)

VIS

UP, UP AND AWAY

W

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

IT iamsterd am.com/a -mag to enter the cont est

hen I moved to Amsterdam two decades ago, to even talk about a ‘local food scene’ was unimaginable. With the national dish being stamppot – a mashed potato, veggie and sausage concoction – and the ubiquitous bitterballen – those breaded and fried balls filled with an unidentifiable meat-ragout – sitting atop the bar snack food chain, the only thing you could really rely on was a decently cooked steak (entrecote, mostly, in those preT-bone days) and a nice Cabernet. Cocktails back then were virtually non-existent, with even a vodka tonic served in parts: a glass of vodka, a bottle of tonic, and lemon and ice by request only.

food court combo on Warmoesstraat), he’s also one of the collaborators behind The Amsterdam Cookbook.

Oh, how things have changed! And while still not a food capital à la New York or Paris, Amsterdam’s culinary competence is, like its housing market, heading into the stratosphere. ‘The food scene is undergoing a revolution, like London did 15 years ago,’ says A-mag.’s resident foodie Karin Engelbrecht.

‘It’s exciting and fast-evolving.’

As does the similarly titled but classicallyfocused Amsterdam Cookbook: Recipes and Stories. Showing Dutch comfort food at its finest, this Amsterdam Cookbook features a collection of city staples from Choux’s pea soup to Has Mercan’s Turkish pizza. Author Laura de Grave peruses the city by bike in search of not only the recipes, but the artisans behind these local creations – including bitterballen from Cees Holtkamp’s famed Vijzelstraat bakery. Whether you opt for Holtkamp’s classic or a ‘healthier’ version from Dutch chef Jonathan Karpathios, who brought us the bieterballen – bitterballen made from biets – the story of this spherical snack’s rise to fame is proof positive that Amsterdam’s food scene has indeed arrived.

Justin Brown agrees that Amsterdam is now a ‘food destination.’ He’s the chef behind Amsterdam’s The Chippy, a British-inspired fish and chips pop-up. Having moved here from the UK two years ago and falling in love with the city and its ‘booming’ food scene (look for his newly opened The Dirty Chicken Club and TRADE, a biological supermarket-

Not your traditional Dutch cookbook or superstar chef affair, the book features recipes from Amsterdam hotspots and mainstays alike, including The Butcher’s baby back ribs, legendary steak destination Café Loetje’s Biefstuk Ossenhaas ‘de Roode Waard’ (with onion, chicken livers and bacon), Mamouche’s Moroccan Chicken Pastilla and The Stillery’s Mokum Mule cocktail, proclaimed 2017’s drink of the year by a local newspaper. The Amsterdam Cookbook, which includes a map, also serves as a city guide.

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

al

AMSTERDAM GIFTS

TOP 5 #iamsterdamstore

iamsterdam.com/store VELORETTI

Part of Amsterdam’s charm is its renowned bike culture, but with it brings the ringing of tinny, rattling (and often rusty) bike bells.

With the simple, sleek bike bell from Veloretti, an independent bicycle brand based in Amsterdam (of course), men and women can become the heroes the city needs.

Available in four colours; gold, brass, silver and black. €13.25

KRNWTR

Ever seen a film that changed your life? The designers of these reusable bottles, sustainable wooden coolers and organic syrups did: the documentary Bottled at IDFA. That’s why, since 2010, they’ve been doing their part to save the planet (from the 50,000 plastic bottles thrown away each day in the Netherlands alone) in style. €14.95

LOWLANDER BEER GIFT SET

This craft beer is an infusion of the exotic

fruits and spices whose trade made the country famous with the remarkable pure water that makes this land so unique. The Lowlander Beer gift set includes: the fresh and flowery White Ale, brewed with Curaçao orange, elderflower and chamomile (5%); a coriander and Asian white tea-infused IPA (6%); and the deeper, sweeter vanilla-and-liquorice Poorter (6%).

by VINOOS BY AMS, are made with the real deal: white Chardonnay, rosé or red Merlot.

Vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, alcohol-free and guilt-free!

€7.50

€14.95

WASTEBOARDS

One-of-a-kind and eco-friendly, WasteBoards skateboards are made from recycled plastic caps hand-pressed into a heated mould. This way, every board has its own unique style. Better yet: every board you buy helps fund WasteBoard Bakeries in poor and polluted areas around the world.

IJ-hal

€179.95

THE REAL WINE GUM

Craving a cheeky mid-day nip of wine? These luxury ’wine gum‘ gummy candies for adults,

Central Station main entrance

PART IV

THE

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jan & feb 2018

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

>

For complete listings, see iamsterdam.com

CHARLOTTE SOLOMON: LIFE? OR THEATRE? The Jewish Historical Museum is throwing an exhaustive retrospective of the works of Charlotte Solomon, a young artist whose life and talent were cut short by the Holocaust. After fleeing Berlin in 1938, she found refuge at her grandmother’s in the South of France, where she poured the energy of her despair into hundreds of gouache paintings, in which she re-created her life as a painted drama. She was deported to Auschwitz, where she died in 1943, leaving behind this beautiful legacy which has inspired many artists (including filmmakers and choreographers) all over the world. This is the first time that the Jewish Museum will show her works in their entirety – more than 800 paintings. A not miss.

© CHARLOTTE SALOMON

UNTIL 25 MARCH Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 jck.nl

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS MATTHIJS MARIS A retrospective exhibition featuring the works of Maris, a 19th-century Dutch painter based mainly in London and Paris. Showing mystical or fairy tale-like figures, his works are unmistakable, and his eccentric lifestyle and idiosyncratic paintings provided inspiration to young artists, including Vincent van Gogh.

Many of the works exhibited here are on loan from the Burrell Collection in Glasgow, given special permission to leave Scotland while that museum undergoes refurbishment.

Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan THE DUTCH IN PARIS 1789-1914 Travel back to 19th-century Paris, a hotbed of artistic creativity. Artists flocked from all over the world to be a part of it, and Dutch painters were no different - of course, Van Gogh's brief time in Paris also marked a key shift in his painting style. This exhibition looks at how these international talents mixed, showing major paintings from both nations, side-by-side.

Van Gogh Museum, until 7 Jan ANOEK STEKETEE STATELESS Document Nederland is an annual exhibition where the Rijksmuseum asks a Dutch photographer to focus on one topical societal issue. Worldwide, an estimated 10 million people are stateless, with no official nationality, no passport and no rights. So this year photographer Anoek Steketee has been commissioned to depict statelessness.

Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan JOHAN MAELWAEL One of the founders of Dutch painting, Johan Maelwael painted everything from armour to large religious paintings, and refined miniatures in illuminated manuscripts. This late-14th-century artist is also responsible for introducing his nephews, legendary miniature painters the Limbourg brothers, to Duke Philip the Bold of advert

THE FOUNTAINHEAD 11 JAN SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

Burgundy. Maelwael’s paintings are exhibited alongside medieval artwork, metalwork, sculptures and manuscripts, courtesy of the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the MET in New York and the Gemäldegalerie in Berlin, amongst others.

Rijksmuseum, until 7 Jan ANS MARKUS ALS IK JOU WAS Markus takes us through her own thorough and ruthless self-examination journey. The exhibition will include her recent painting series Hidden Sorrow and The Pain of Old, as well as a wide selection of former work from sketches, drawings and smaller paintings to sculptures in bronze and porcelain that Markus has been making for years. Her art forms a personal mythology full of experience, emotion and a strong commitment to her fellow humans.

Museum Jan van der Togt, until 7 Jan CARLOS MOTTA – THE CROSSING Carlos Motta’s ‘The Crossing’ is a video portrait of 11 LGBTQI refugees who talk about their exodus from their oppressive homelands, and journey to the Netherlands.

The subjects – selected with the help of Amsterdam-based organisation Secret Garden – faced overt discrimination in Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Morocco, Syria and Pakistan, but also intimidation and exclusion during their asylum-seeking processes in Dutch refugee camps. Besides the video testimonials, the exhibition also features a small selection of historic objects from the Rijksmuseum, Tropenmuseum and Amsterdam Museum.

Stedelijk Museum, until 7 Jan RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired exhibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz, blues, and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown's cape can all be seen. Relive key moments in history through archival film clips and hear the personal stories that have shaped pop music around the world.

Tropenmuseum until 7 Jan RONIT PORAT: SOPHIORNITHIDAE While exploring the Museum Van Loon’s archives, Israeli artist Ronit Porat uncovered photos and records of reams of exotic birds. Using these fascinating birds of wisdom – many of which were killed to use as decoration on clothing and accessories – as the basis for her exhibition, Ronit uses photos and installations to question the idea of private and public archives, and explores whether the historical and personal narrative can exist in parallel.

Museum Van Loon until 8 Jan

FERDINAND BOL: THE HOUSE, THE COLLECTION, THE ARTIST Museum Van Loon presents the art collection of Ferdinand Bol in the coach house of the museum. This 17th-century Dutch painter was the first resident of the canal house on Keizersgracht 672, the current museum. Along with his second wife Anna van Erckel, they collected works by contemporaries such as Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Ruisdael.

Museum Van Loon, until 8 Jan ANDRÉ KERTÉSZ MIRRORING LIFE Hungarian-born photographer André Kertész made extraordinary contributions to photography and its composition throughout the 20th century.

Known for his unusual compositions, and for capturing but never commenting on his subjects, Kertész spent much of his career feeling unrecognised. He is now often considered the father of photojournalism, and regarded as a master.

Foam, until 10 Jan TOMORROW OF YESTERDAY Austrian-born Stefanie Moshammer visited the Haitian island of Île à Vache, and was stunned by the contrast between the picturesque beauty and excessive littering. In her 'Tomorrow or Yesterday' exhibition she investigates these paradoxical contradictions between Western ideals and the daily issues of the island’s residents. Moshammer is the first recipient of the Florentine Riem Vis Grant.

Foam, until 14 Jan KIJK AMSTERDAM 1700-1800 Eighteenth-century Amsterdam comes alive through a stunning collection of Amsterdam prints and drawings, courtesy of the Amsterdam City Archives. The collection is a comprehensive study of Amsterdam’s historical canals, residents, architecture and more, and is exhibited on an unprecedented scale. The collection is also extensively researched, from material and paper types to signatures and footnotes, the fruits of which are presented to visitors through interactive installations.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 14 Jan MODERN JAPANS LAKWERK This exhibition showcases several works by top Japanese artists, including Mitamura Arisumi, Sasaki Tatsuro, Kitaoka Shozo – each one skilled in applying classic lacquer art techniques to their modern art. Japanese lacquerware is infamous for being extremely complex, and the materials are costly, so expect some truly one-of-a-kind pieces that will give an authentic appreciation of Japanese creativity.

Museum Jan van der Togt, until 28 Jan

ANOUK KRUITHOF NEXT LEVEL 'Next Level' is Dutch artist Anouk Kruithof 's first major exhibition, and is an entirely new series of sculptures, video work and animations, all commissioned by Foam. The exhibition investigates the complex relationship between humans and nature in a post-internet era, and highlights the destruction caused to both.

Discarded rubber, artificial limbs and oxygen masks will all make an appearance, sometimes in the same art piece.

Foam, until 28 Jan LACE Thanks to celebrities like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Queen Maxima, lace has made a comeback as the quintessential luxury product. The Rijksmuseum has the largest lace collection in the Netherlands. It comprises around 3,500 pieces dating from the late 16th to the early 20th century. An important part of the collection consists of pieces belonging to Queen Wilhelmina, who had a great love of lace and assembled a beautiful range of items.

Rijksmuseum, until 28 Jan ACCESSORIES ARE A GIRL'S BEST FRIEND An exhibition highlighting the most remarkable pieces from the Rijksmuseum’s extraordinary accessory collection, including parasols, umbrellas, hats, hair accessories, shawls, gloves, fans, shoes and stockings. Discover the most important accessory trends of the last 400 years.

Museum of Bags and Purses, until 28 Jan WE HAVE A DREAM Delve into the lives of three influential figures of the 20th century: Mahatma Gandhi, Martin Luther King and Nelson Mandela. They were ordinary people who led extraordinary movements against racial discrimination and social injustice. All three became role models around the world but also drew fierce criticism and opposition. Experience their world, the injustice and the hope, the great moments in history and their personal journeys, as well as learning about the people trying to make a difference today.

De Nieuwe Kerk, until 4 Feb ROMAIN MADER: THE FOLLOWING IS A TRUE STORY Romain Mader (1988) was chosen by an international jury as the winner of the Foam Paul Huf Award 2017. Now Foam presents an exhibition that forms part of his series 'Ekaterina', with each instalment shaping a narrative about a naive young man in search of a wife. By combining a documentary style with images from social media and tourist publications, Mader creates a narrative that confronts us with our own prejudices.

Foam, until 7 Feb

HERE I EXIST An exhibition dedicated to the lonely – and sometimes unidentified – people who die a solitary death. These deceased are sometimes homeless, illegal immigrants, tourists, or simply people who have chosen to live an isolated life.

'Here I Exist' mourns them through poetry, and a series of solitary funerals that show the other side of our otherwise very connected society.

Dutch Funeral Museum, until 11 Feb CROSSROADS: TRAVELLING THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES 'Crossroads' is a journey through the Middle Ages that brings together top exhibits from leading artefact collectors. The exhibition’s eight themes are narrated by early Medieval travellers who connect the artefacts to the themes through film, publications and digital applications. Highlights include an Egyptian lady on a fragment of cloth from late antiquity, a fierce Germanic god on a gilded buckle from a female grave of the Pannonian Avars, and a digitally reconstructed sarcophagus from Syria that would have contained a saint.

Allard Pierson Museum, until 11 Feb ‘BRUSHES’ AWARD WINNERS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM The Rijksmuseum's annual exhibition of original prints by the winners of the 'Penselen' (Brushes), the 'Paletten' (Palettes) and the 'Vlag en Wimpels' (Flag and Pennants) awards.

These awards honour the most beautifully illustrated children's books of the past year.

Rijksmuseum, until 11 Feb SPEED UP / SLOW DOWN - REDESIGNING AMSTERDAM Last year, Architecture Centre Amsterdam brought together more than 60 professionals from an ambitious range of design studios. Under the motto’ Speed Up Slow Down’, they investigated the challenges, limitations and possibilities of six hotspots in Amsterdam.

The results can be seen in this exhibition.

Architecture Centre Amsterdam, until 18 Feb FERDINAND BOL AND GOVERT FLINCK – REMBRANDT’S MASTER PUPILS A first of its kind, this exhibition of works by Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck – which includes exquisite portraits and dramatic scenes from the Bible and the classics – brings together paintings from museums and private collections from all over the world, some of which have not been in the Netherlands since the 17th century. The exhibition is held simultaneously in four key locations across the city.

Amsterdam Museum, Rembrandt House Museum, Royal Palace & Museum Van Loon, until 18 Feb

jan & feb 2018

IDENTITY CARDS AND FORGERIES: JACOB LENTZ AND ALICE COHN Compulsory wartime ID cards were introduced in the Netherlands at the start of World War II. Jewish residents' cards were marked with a large black J, making it easy for Nazis to round them up during the Holocaust. The creator of the cards, Jacob Lentz, thought his creation couldn't be replicated, but Jewish graphic designer and resistance member Alice Cohn had other ideas, and her forgeries saved hundreds of lives. This exhibition delves into the stories of Lentz and Cohn to paint a picture of this bleak period in history.

National Holocaust Museum, until 4 Mar JESPER JUST Danish artist Jesper Just, known for exploring ambiguous subjects such as gender, desire, relations and identity in his cinematographic works, is also known for his stunning spatial installations made from film. He often uses extreme dimensions to create presentations on various screens, and complements these with complex sound and light installations as well as the existing architecture.

His exhibition at the EYE is accompanied by an extensive programme of films, talks and events in the cinema.

EYE Film Museum, until 11 Mar CHARLOTTE SALOMON. LIFE? OR THEATER? The Jewish Historical Museum celebrates the 100th anniversary of artist Charlotte Salomon (1917-1943) with a special exhibition dedicated to her artistic legacy. 'Life? or Theatre?' is the largest single

STEDELIJK BASE One of the largest installations from the Stedelijk's collections in the museum’s history, Stedelijk Base explores developments in the arts from the end of the 19th century to the present day. Featuring more than 750 artworks grouped around the collection's icons, visitors can step back in time and see the evolution of modern art and design.

Stedelijk Museum, until 31 Mar STREETS OF THE WORLD In 2009, Dutch photojournalist Jeroen Swolfs set out to visit and photograph street life in every country in the world.

'Streets of the World' is a photography project that not only highlights scale, but also the vision of a photographer with a keen eye for culture. After seven years of travelling, it is time for seven years of sharing.

Hembrugterrein, until 1 Apr JUMP INTO THE FUTURE In 2016, the German art collector Thomas Borgmann gifted a major selection of contemporary artworks to the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.

Borgmann’s donation covered the breadth and diversity of contemporary art produced throughout the 1990s and early 2000s. In this era, the boundaries in art were dissolving, and artists utilised media of all kinds, defied categorisation, and were not committed to any one medium, working in painting, photography, drawing, sculpture, installation, video and performance. Now the museum is presenting a large number of pieces from the donation in an exhibition that occupies the entire first floor of the historic building.

Stedelijk Museum, until 8 Apr JACOB RIIS THE OTHER HALF A pioneer of the documentary genre, Jacob Riis used his camera to capture the impoverished conditions of people living in the slums of New York’s Lower Manhattan. In this first exhibition of the Danish-American photographer, journalist and social reformer’s work in the Netherlands, ‘The Other Half ’ shows how images, illustrated lectures and books can affect change to the squalid situations of society’s forgotten people.

Foam, 16 Feb-15 Apr LUCAS FOGLIA HUMAN NATURE American photographer Lucas Foglia's 'Human Nature'

Choice exhibit

DANCING WITH THE ENEMY 'Dancing with the Enemy' follows the story of Tante Roosje, a free-spirited woman whose Jewish ancestry made her a Nazi target, as narrated by her nephew Paul Glasser. His discovery of a suitcase with his family name on it in Auschwitz led him on an investigative journey that culminated in a book, exhibition and musical. Tante Roosje was exceptional in that she decided to try and preserve her life by standing out, and making herself useful and entertaining. From dance classes for SS officers to entertainment and intimate relationships, Roos’ bold and insightful story shows us that the line between good and evil is, at times, very unclear.

Dutch Resistance Museum, until 4 Mar

really big names: Rembrandt, Ferdinand Bol, Gerard Dou, Govert Flinck and Frans Hals.

But amongst the halls, you're also likely to encounter some lesser-known works that are equally majestic.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 27 May

© XXXXXXXXX © ED VAN DER ELSKEN

EDDO HARTMANN / SETTING THE STAGE: PYONGYANG, NORTH KOREA, PART 2 Photographer Eddo Hartmann made four trips to North Korea between 2014 and 2017, and has returned with unique insight into the day-to-day lives of the citizens of this closed country. This exhibition delves deep into these lives, and provides a glimpse of a city full of futuristic monuments that radiate absolute control.

Huis Marseille, until 4 Mar

work of art created by a Jew during the Holocaust – almost 800 gouaches, 340 transparent overlays of text, a 32,000-word narrative and multiple classical-music cues. Shown here for the first time, it's a work which explores notions of family, love, death and creativity, and – of course – it highlights Salomon's singular talent.

Jewish Historical Museum, until 25 Mar

WORK # 080 VERSION IV 2017 © ADAM JEPPESEN

AD VAN DENDEREN / JERUSALEM STONE For almost 25 years, Ad van Denderen, the acclaimed Dutch documentary photographer, has been photographing daily life in Israel and the Palestinian territories. He originally worked in black and white, in a classical, direct, reportage style. About 15 years ago he switched to colour, and since then he has employed a more detached and monumental photographic style.

This exhibition unites these two approaches to create a subtle depiction of the complex and precarious situation in this part of the world.

Huis Marseille, until 4 Mar

BACK TO THE FUTURE An exhibition that creates a dialogue between contemporary photographers who are reinventing the basics, and photographers of the 19th century who were still experimenting with the new and exciting medium. Here, the contemporary photographers have gone back to basics to try and reinvent light and darkroom techniques, and recapture the spirit of curiosity and nonconformity their predecessors had.

Foam, 19 Jan-28 Mar exhibition is the product of his enduring quest to understand the relationship between humankind and the natural world. Amidst global debates on climate change and political uproar surrounding the topic, this shutterbug's snaps present an enlightening peek into various governmental programmes that connect people with nature – each photo connected by connected by colour, composition and content, rather than narrative.

Foam, 2 Feb-15 Apr CHRISTIAN BOLTANSKI - NA French sculptor, photographer and painter Christian Boltanski is well known in the art community for his photography installations and modern

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STEFAN TCHEREPNIN THE MAD MASTERS The first solo exhibition in a museum by American artist and musician Stefan Tcherepnin, ‘The Mad Masters’ will trace the story of four large, endearing monsters. These bizarre figures – all frozen in arresting dioramas – look as if they are being exhibited in some strange natural history museum.

Stedelijk Museum, 27 Jan-3 Jun

conceptual design. His new exhibition, 'NA', is as radical as it is striking, exploring how we remember and commemorate the dead. To this end, the artist presents over 60 tombs of various sizes, which fit right in with the Oude Kerk's 2,200 memorial stones and 800 years of history.

De Oude Kerk, until 29 April DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE STATE HERMITAGE Travel back in time to the Netherlands' Golden Age and encounter many of the works that influenced artistic styles in the centuries that followed. Sixty-three works by 50 different artists will be on display here in Amsterdam, naturally including some

NIEUWE MEESTERS The Outsider Art Museum introduces 30 intimate portraits of contemporary Outsider artists, together with over 70 of their works, in a series of touching portraits.

Award-winning photographer Sander Troelstra gives a face to the fascinating world of these Outsiders, whose social isolation could have deprived society of their works. Their art is authentic, contradictory and unconventional, and teaches you to look at art in a very different way.

Outsider Art Musuem, until 28 May ROY LICHTENSTEIN There’s a small chance that you haven’t heard of Roy Lichtenstein, one of the most prominent American figures in the pop art movement, but there is zero chance that you’re not familiar with his work. And from November until the end of May, the Moco Musuem will be celebrating Lichtenstein’s sophisticated body of work.

Moco Museum, until 31 May “I AM A NATIVE FOREIGNER” Throughout 2017 and 2018, the Stedelijk Museum is mounting a series of exhibitions that explore different aspects of migration. The works shown here range from photographs of Dutch immigrants disembarking at New York’s Ellis Island circa 1900, and Surinamese-born Dutch who made their home in the Bijlmer in Amsterdam Zuidoost in the late ‘70s, to more recent images of refugees off the coast of southern Spain.

The exhibition is curated by Leontine Coelewij.

Stedelijk Museum, until 3 Jun GAME CHANGERS - MARITIME INNOVATIONS From Cornelis Drebbel's first working submarine (1620) to the 2016 Piet de Jong Innovation Award-winning Ortega Submersible, the Netherlands is a country of maritime innovation. And through its 'Game Changers' exhibition, the National Maritime Museum is showcasing 25 of the most beautiful, exotic and strange maritime innovations, both revolutionary and ludicrous.

Head there and immerse yourself in some maritime history.

National Maritime Museum, until 1 Jul BODY ART Body art and body modification, including tattoos and piercings, but also scarification, branding and implants, have a long history and are present in numerous cultures around the globe. This exhibition explores the various

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity.

Tropenmuseum, until 1 Jul FASHION CITIES AFRICA There is no such thing as African fashion. Instead, Africa has dozens of unique styles ranging from streetwear to couture, flourishing across the continent.

Styles are personal, and often have deep local roots. ‘Fashion Cities Africa’ explores these through the eyes of local designers, stylists and photographers.

Tropenmuseum, until 31 Dec

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution.

BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens.

DIAMANT MUSEUM The Amsterdam Diamond Museum takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth – ending in the present-day with beautiful cut diamonds. You’ll find out about the carbon atom, meet specialists who transform a rough stone into a sparkling jewel, learn how to distinguish between real and imitation diamonds and admire the collection of sparkling jewels on display.

EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema.

ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons.

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century.

HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants.

POP & JAZZ

RESERVOIR DOGS BAND The clue's in the name with Reservoir Dogs Band, a HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Dutch-Belgian group who Located in the Hendrika cover well-known songs from Maria, a former freighter director Quentin Tarantino's moored on the Prinsengracht, most iconic film scenes. Expect the Houseboat Museum gives a bluesy covers of tracks like fun insight into life on Amster- 'Son of a Preacher Man', 'Stuck dam’s canals – a uniquely in the Middle with You' and Dutch way of life.

'Little Green Bag' when these silver-screen enthusiasts hit VAN KROT TOT the stage.

WONINGWET Thur 4 Jan, Paradiso, These specialists of the 22:00, €11 Amsterdam School architecFIBER X THE REST IS NOISE ture movement examine the living situation of workers in This show brings together the the Netherlands. most exciting acts working at the intersection of technology, ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP film, lights and contemporary SOLDER (OUR LORD IN electronic music, including THE ATTIC) three unique AV-shows.

This clandestine church in a So immerse yourself in music, 17th-century canalhouse attic performance and visuals as dates back to the Reformation, the artists and musicians when Catholics were not perlighten things up at the formitted to practice their faith. ward-thinking event.

Fri 5 Jan, Muziekgebouw aan REMBRANDTHUIS 't IJ, 20:30, €16-€20 (REMBRANDT HOUSE) NIEUWJAARSCONCERT The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years An annual tradition at Bimboasts an impressive collection huis, start 2018 in swingin' of drawings and paintings by style with sets by percussionist the Old Master himself as well Christian Lillinger, Sanem as his contemporaries.

Kalfa & George Dumitriu, and the Native Aliens Ensemble.

RIJKSMUSEUM Fri 5 Jan, Bimhuis, 20:30, Visit the state museum and €18 embark on a journey through HAMMOND HAPPENING Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages until the 20th The Hammond organ is the century. focus of this show. Countless artists in the '60s and '70s HET SCHEEPVAART made use of the iconic musical MUSEUM (NATIONAL instrument, including Bob MARITIME MUSEUM) Dylan, Deep Purple and Bob The National Maritime Marley. It's made something Museum comprises a series of a comeback in recent years. of small exhibitions exploring See for yourself at this show, various elements of maritime which features a line-up of life. Moored outside is the Bl3nder, The Gwoof, Funky Amsterdam, an exact replica of Organizers, Wild and Kauw. a famous Dutch East India Sun 7 Jan, Melkweg, 18:30, Company ship. €18.75 KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public.

SOUAD MASSI Despite moving to Paris back when she was just 16, this now45-year-old singer still writes songs about her homeland of Algeria. Her gentle singing voice and clever application of Arabic poems have helped her become one of North Africa's most popular singers.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM For this tour, her captivating The museum’s permanent voice will be complemented by collection is on display in the two of her friends, percussionbeautifully restored building. ist Rabah Khalfa and guitarist Half of the ground floor is reMedhi Dalil. served for the design collection. Thur 11 Jan, Melkweg, 18:30, €29.50 TROPENMUSEUM DEPECHE MODE – The ’Museum of the GLOBAL SPIRIT TOUR Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibiEnglish electronic band tions and an ongoing series of Depeche Mode have been temporary presentations, ingoing for over 35 years and cluding both modern and trawere one of the first bands ditional visual arts and to establish a sound based photographic work. solely around synthesisers.

Now on their 14th record, the WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN politically charged 'Spirit', the MUSEUM band show no signs of slowing The only completely period down. After a massive show at furnished canal-side house Ziggo Dome last May, the boys in Amsterdam has a remarkaare back. ble collection of Golden Age art Sat 13 Jan, Ziggo Dome, and silverware.

20:00, €64-€89

CARLA BRUNI Former supermodel and award-winning singer-songwriter Carla Bruni is known for her highly-valued runway walks, sultry songs and being the former French first lady.

Her new album, 'French Touch', includes covers of classics like 'Enjoy the Silence' (Depeche Mode) and 'Miss You' (The Rolling Stones) which she sings in her signature elegant, seductive style with a French twist.

Tue 16 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €35-€65 CELEBRATING BOWIE Join international artists and friends of David Bowie in celebrating the Thin White Duke’s music and life, in a venue he himself rocked on two occasions. Expect veterans like pianist Michael Garson, guitarist Adrian Belew and guitarist Gerry Leonard, and their combined three decades of playing with the legend, as well as a careful selection of Bowie’s most influential masterpieces.

Tue 16 Jan, Paradiso, 19:00, sold out PARAMORE Despite being one of the biggest bands on the planet just a few years ago, Paramore’s popularity seems to have waned somewhat in recent years.

After a few in-band dramas over the years, the pop-rockers are officially back on form; arguments are settled and creativity is restored. They've even moved from emo-inflected pop-punk to an all-out pop assault on their latest album, 'After Laughter'.

Tue 16 Jan, AFAS Live, 20:00, €45 PHLAKE It's only been two years since Phlake added their very first tune to Soundcloud. Fast forward to today, and the duo are conquering the globe with their impressive amalgamation of pumping hip-hop and steamy R&B. There's a lot going on in their tracks, so they expand to a five-piece band for their live shows (drums, guitar, bass and keyboard). They had an amazing reception when they played the venue for ADE, so expect big things when they return.

Wed 17 Jan, Melkweg, 19:00, €11 FISCHER-Z You'd think Fischer-Z would've run out of ideas by now; after all, their rock 'n' roll career has been going on for a whopping 41 years at this point. But nope, their 12th album, last year's 'Building Bridges' is just as distinct, intelligent and relevant as the band have always been. Classic-sounding rock at its best.

Thur 18 Jan, Paradiso, 20:30, €20 THE CLAN The Clan aren't your average Italian band – mostly because they play Irish folk music and pub songs – think The Rum-

jacks, The Pogues and The Dubliners. Whether you're a punker, a raver or a metalhead, their fun mix of tracks is bound to get your head bopping and your foot tapping.

Fri 19 Jan, Melkweg, 19:00, €11.35 O.R.K. O.R.k are a prog-rock supergroup that needs to be higher on people's radars. Made up of members from the genre's heavyweights (including from Obake and Porcupine Tree), these prog rockers offer up a spellbinding mix of pitch-switching math rock and eccentric psychedelic influences. Their second full-length record, 'Soul of an Octopus', doubled down on this refreshing sound.

Sat 20 Jan, Melkweg, 19:30, €17.05 MISS MAY I This merciless metalcore package features four bands that are currently making a splash on the scene: Miss May I, Fit For A King, Void Of Vision and Currents. Each group brings their own technical yet melodic noise to the table, bouncing between harsh screams and clean vocals with ease. Expect brutal breakdowns, shreddin' guitar solos and mosh pits galore. Rock on!

Sat 20 Jan, Melkweg, 18:30, €19.85 LADY GAGA This feisty New Yorker was touted as the freshest and most unique thing to hit pop music when she broke through back in 2008. Through the varied pop hits and costume diversions that have followed, she's gained hordes of vehement fans – 'Little Monsters'. And her shows never fail to showcase the funkiest fashion and flashiest productions.

Sat 20 Jan, Ziggo Dome, 19:30, €60 KONRAD KOSELLECK BIG BAND An accomplished jazz pianist and graduate of both Hilversum and Amsterdam conservatories, Konrad Koselleck brings his passion, energy and humour to the fore as the bandleader. Their frequent adventures in Amsterdam's Bimhuis throw up everything imaginable: jazz, cabaret, musicals, pop, rock, funk, Latin and even classical music.

Mon 22 Jan, Bimhuis, 20:30, €16 DEER TICK These Rhode Island rock and rollers have always been known as a little goofy. But with bandleader John McCauley now clean, married and a dad, the group’s new material more often channels that bittersweet, introspective outlook that revealed itself only occasionally in their back-catalogue. Witness old meet new, as the goofy songs of past and the recent 'mature' songs collide in one setlist.

Tue 23 Jan, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €15

jan & feb 2018

Choice pop & jazz

6LACK even added samples of infamous cult leader Jim Jones to their This young Atlantan seemingly tracks. Yet, their newest album, came out of nowhere with his ‘Offering’, boasts even bigger moody blend of R&B. His minimalist production is a neat com- hooks and anthemic beats that make good on the up-tempo plement to his gravelly voice, promise of early breakout hit and some of his tracks even ‘Go Outside’. tiptoe into soul and jazz. After Sat 27 Jan, Bitterzoet, 20:30, a sold-out show at Melkweg's €11 smaller upstairs room, he's well and truly ready to take on the STEREOPHONICS venue's main room at this show.

If you missed them when they Wed 24 Jan, Melkweg, 19:30, played with Bruce Springsteen €28.40 in 2016, here’s your chance to A. SAVAGE catch up with the Stereophonics. Their tenth studio album A. Savage is the solo project of 'Scream Above the Sounds' Parquet Courts' frontman, Anis full of big, anthemic songs drew Savage. The singer's deep rallying against urban anxiety, voice is even more accentuated GHOSTPOET and offers hope and a sense in this new material, and he of release with every track. If plays heavily into that quintesThe latest album from Ghostpoet, AKA Obaro Ejimiwe, you’re a fan of alternative rock sential Southern singer-songopens with a groan. It’s fitting, as the atmospheric tracks on and whiskey-tinged vocals, then writer vibe – all without com'Dark Days and Canapes' – featuring disjointed electronic this night is for you. pletely venturing into country sounds and Ejimiwe’s almost spoken monologues – mainly music. Make no mistake: he'll be Sat 27 Jan, AFAS Live, 20:00, deal with modern-day melancholy and tragedies. Live, €38.5-€41.5 proudly wearing his Texas roots Ghostpoet’s meditations on contemporary life are even on his sleeve when he performs more blistering.

MAIDEN UNITED these raw, emotional tracks.

Sat 3 Feb, Bitterzoet, 20:30, €15 Ever imagined the sounds of Wed 24 Jan, Paradiso, 22:00, metal giants Iron Maiden in €11 acoustic form? Us neither, but ALT-J this Dutch tribute band did, and it's awesome. One thing's English indie rock band alt-J return to Amsterdam following for sure: their acoustic versions the release of their third studio of classics such as 'The Trooper' and '2 Minutes to Midnight' are album 'Relaxer'. Described as internet-era pop, their music is sure to put a smile on the face of a niche combination of more in- any metalhead or singer-songwriter fanatic. fluences than most can decipher, Sat 27 Jan, Royal Theatre Carincluding expansive sounds ré, 20:00, €22.50-€33 courtesy of both the London Metropolitan Orchestra and the DANIEL CAESAR band’s studio laptops.

This Canadian rapper and Wed 24 Jan, AFAS Live, HIGHLY SUSPECT RANDY NEWMAN singer-songwriter kicked off 20:00, €44 his music career with a slew of These Brooklyn-based When it comes to film scores, THE LONE BELLOW online tracks that combine rock rockers go beyond your 73-year-old Randy Newman and hip-hop. Following an EP This band formed in 2011, after typical indie romps, opting has quite the résumé: 'Toy release, the artist's popularity lead singer Zach Williams' wife more for hooky guitars, Story', 'A Bug's Life', 'Seaskyrocketed (especially in R&B suffered temporary paralysis bendy grooves and raw vobiscuit', the list goes on. But from a horse-riding accident. His circles). And his trajectory tocals. Think Kings of Leon on this concert is all about the friends urged him to learn guitar wards stardom continued with overdrive. The band's artist's latest original release, the release of his debut album, and turn his journal entries into first album got them in the 'Dark Matter' – his first in 2017's 'Freudian'. songs. Fast forward five years public eye and even secured nine years. In typical Newlater, and Williams' wife has now Sun 28 Jan, Melkweg, 19:30, them some Grammy nomina- man fashion, one track might €18.15 fully recovered, but his band tions. Their second be comical and satirical, and are still going strong with their offering was even heavier, the next will be cynical and SUGAR MOUNTAIN PREhearty mix of alt-country, Americrazier and rawer, and this sentimental. Either way, it's SENTS: COLTER WALL, DIG cana and indie. transfers to their live engaging stuff.

DEEPER AND BRAUT Fri 26 Jan, Paradiso, 22:00, shows.

Thur 22 Feb, Royal Colter Wall’s career was €10 Mon 12 Feb, Melkweg, Concertgebouw, 20:00, launched when, of all things, 19:00, €19.85 €53.90-€63.80 MOSS WWE wrestler Brock Lesnar spoke about his talent to fellow This Dutch band tick all the Thugs-n-Harmony were one of with darkness, melancholy and wrestler Steve Austin on a podindie-pop boxes: shimmering self-awareness. guitars, darting synths and har- cast. At this concert, the country the biggest melodic rap groups out there. The band rose to Mon 5 Feb, Paradiso, monies that could turn even The music star performs on the same fame on the back of their 1993 22:00, €9 bill as Norwegian alt-rockers Beach Boys' heads. As energetic single, 'Thuggish Ruggish Bone'.

Dig Deeper, whose psych-inas they are catchy, these feelPEACH PIT Interestingly, they were the only spired songs tell stories of esgood tunes are guaranteed to cape, freedom, loss and identity, group to collaborate with 2Pac, If you haven’t heard of Canadian cheer you up on a bad day.

Big Pun, Notorious B.I.G. and group Peach Pit, watch the and Braut, a big name on the Fri 26 Jan, Paradiso, 19:30, Eazy-E when the artists video for track 'Seventeen' Norwegian psych scene. €15 immediately. It’s a gloriously Mon 29 Jan, Paradiso, 19:00, were all still alive. Catch up with IRON & WINE two of the crew, Bizzy Bone and nostalgic/lo-fi four minutes in €12.50 Krayzie Bone, who released which vocalist Neil Smith brilSam Beam has traversed a disA TRIBUTE TO CREEDENCE a new album together earlier liantly dances around a tinct musical trail from reverent CLEARWATER REVIVAL this year. bunch of abandoned spaces to indie-folk to a Motown-influSat 3 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, €25 a song on a Walkman. After enced sound and back again. His Creedence Clearwater Revival that, you won’t want to miss are one of the all-time great rock latest album, 'Beast Epic', sees SEXTILE this show. bands, so it's only fitting that him paying tribute to his folksy Sextile are an LA-based punk Tue 6 Feb, Paradiso, 20:00, €9 they have a tribute band roots, armed with an acoustic band whose raw rock sounds to continue their legacy. The guitar and his undeniably lovely ESCAPE THE FATE are laced with synthwave inFortunate Sons are just that, cadenced delivery. Up close, his fluences – a genre that, to the These boys may have had more woozy, rich songs are even more flawlessly reviving every strum, dismay of hipsters worldwide, is line-up changes than albums, but beat and note that the hypnotic than on record. becoming very popular ( their winning formula of catchioriginal rockers offered up in Sat 27 Jan, Paradiso, 19:30, we can thank Netflix's 'Stranger ness plus heaviness has ensured the '60s and '70s. €22.50 Things' for that one). Opportheir continued relevance. They Tue 30 Jan, DeLaMar Theater, CULTS tunely, the band have carved were one of the front-runners of 20:00, €19.50-€29.50 out a refreshingly eccentric the emo scene in the mid-'00s, In the past, Cults have written BONE THUGS slice of the synthwave pie for and not a lot's changed. So get songs which liken falling in love themselves – one that's filled ready for straightened fringes, Hip-hop group Bone to bleeding out, and they've

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lightning-fast guitars, and l eather and denim as far as the eye can see.

Thur 8 Feb, Melkweg, 19:00, €19.85 THE WOODEN SKY The Wooden Sky have pretty modest origins, forming when lead singer Gavin Gardiner wrote a few songs for a school project at university. Don’t let that humble start fool you, as the Canadian group’s swirling, psychedelic-infused indie-folk mines dark subjects – sexual abuse and death – to create expertly crafted songs with ambition.

Fri 9 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, €11.35 DROPKICK MURPHYS (UITVERKOCHT) Dropkick Murphys are a band that need no introduction in the world of rock. Their punchdrunk sound combines elements of hardcore punk and folk music, so expect speedy guitar riffs, bagpipes and catchy Irish-inspired melodies as they revisit older hits and reveal some new tunes.

Wed 25 Jan, AFAS Live, 20:00, €37.50 EZRA FURMAN Seeing Ezra Furman live is a wild experience. Often wearing a dress and lipstick, the Chicago musician sings songs about depression, Jewishness and gender-fluid identity with complete honesty and abandon. What’s more, his backing band – The Boyfriends – play rock ’n’ roll like it was meant to be played: while they’re having the time of their lives.

Tue 13 Feb, Bitterzoet, 21:00, €12.50 MANDO DIAO Mixing garage rock sneer and Brit-pop sass – along with a truckload of other influences – Sweden's Mando Diao formed when its members were all still in their teens and ultimately became one of their homeland's biggest rock bands (not including the ever-popular Swedish metal scene, of course). In May, they released their 8th album, 'Good Times', which builds upon the band's '60s-inspired rock and soul foundations.

Tue 13 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.70 PHYSICAL GRAFFITI: CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF LED ZEPPELIN It's been half a century since Led Zeppelin first formed, giving way to a whole new generation of heavier, stick-it-to-the-man rock 'n' roll. Luckily, this Netherlands-based tribute band – who have 20 years of experience under their belts – are celebrating the occasion in style. Expect near-perfect renditions of classics such as 'Whole Lotta Love', 'Kashmir' and 'Stairway to Heaven' – as well as some of the original icons' lesser-known tracks.

Fri 16 Feb, Q-Factory, 20:00, €16 THE CHAINSMOKERS American DJ duo The Chainsmokers were blasted into the public eye with their hit 2014 single '#Selfie'. Since then, they have amassed a large following

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL across the globe – mostly thanks composer Ryan Lott return to to their cool blend of music that the Dutch capital – this time, bridges the gap between pop, on the back of their new release, indie and dance.

'Brighter Wounds'. Defying clasSat 17 Feb, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, sification, they use samples and a €25-€38 cacophony of voices and sound to make ethereal, nocturnal tunes.

THE MENZINGERS Thur 22 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, The Menzingers built their €20,45 now-revered name on a MAMAS GUN stripped-back punk sound that's packed with anthems and simMotown, soul and funk are ple, hook-laden tracks. One part the name of the game for this Warped Tour-era ska and one London-based group. Their part Springsteen, the band have retro-rooted sound is making really honed in on their sound in waves across the world, and not their newest release, 'After the just in the West; they've also Party'. It's essentially punk for cracked markets further away Springsteen lovers. from home, including South KoSun 18 Feb, Melkweg, 19:00, rea, Hong Kong, Indonesia and €20.25 Singapore. They were even the most played international artist KORPIKLAANI / HEIDEVOLK / on Japanese radio back in 2009.

ARKONA / TROLLFEST Fri 23 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, Calling all pagan warriors, wiz€14 ards and trolls: Korpiklaani is BARBAGALLO coming over together with metal heads Arkona, Trollfest and Better known as the drummer Heidevolk. This is an evening from Tame Impala, French dedicated to pagan and folk songwriter Julien Barbagallo metal, so get your ears ready for has also been producing his own flutes and fiddles as well as the music since the early '00s. As usual guitars, drums and gang well as his time beating the skins vocals. Viking beards and pagan for the Australian psych-rockers, dreads are a given. the years spent in numerous Sun 18 Feb, Melkweg, 17:00, French bands has no doubt €33 influenced Barbagallo's music, which he’s affectionately coined CIRCUIT DES YEUX ‘manicured pop’.

Circuit des Yeux is the pseudSat 24 Feb, Melkweg, 19:30, onym, primary focus, and one €12.50 alter ego of Chicago-born singer, ELBOW composer and producer Haley Fohr. Fohr recently retired her Could Elbow be Britain's no-nonsense country singer greatest live act? They've ceralter-ego Jackie Lynn – whom tainly got a good claim to the you may have met and loved in crown, offering epic songs and 2016 – to return her attention to singalongs, confetti cannons what seems to be her favourite and frontman Guy Garvey's persona. Expect dark baritone easy charm (with the banter vocals, folk, opera and minimalto boot). Most recently heard ist influences, and an almost sound-tracking John Lewis's ritualistic experience. ubiquitous Christmas ad, it's Mon 19 Feb, Muziekgebouw when they delve into their fine aan 't IJ, 20:30, €10 back-catalogue that this night will truly come alive.

LINCOLN CENTER ORMon 26 & Wed 28 Feb, AFAS CHESTRA & MARSALIS: TRIBLive, 20:00, €44 UTE TO BENNY GOODMAN JOHN SMITH, Benny Goodman, the King of ROBYN HITCHCOCK Swing himself, not only revolutionised the swing scene, but Robyn Hitchcock made his he also made leaps and bounds name in the late 1970s with in jazz and bebop during his The Soft Boys, before launching 60-year career, pioneering racial a prolific solo career, mining integration in an era plagued the musical and lyrical styles by segregation. Watch in awe of Dylan, Lennon and Syd as the skilled Lincoln Center Barrett for inspiration. John Orchestra, led by trumpeter Smith comes from the pool of Wynton Marsalis, pay tribute to British-acoustic artists which the icon's music. also spawned Bert Jansch and Wed 21 Feb, Royal Concertge- John Renbourn. This special gig bouw, 20:15, €36 will see the pair each perform a solo set.

INDIESTAD: WAND & MORE Wed 28 Feb, Zonnehuis, LA-based WAND aren't your 20:00, €17 typical indie band, injecting a IRÈNE SCHWEIZER & hefty chunk of prog-, glam- and HAN BENNINK stoner-rock influences into their tunes, and they just dropped a Innovative Swiss pianist Irène new record, 'Plum', so expect Schweizer and Dutch jazz drumsome new stuff to jump around mer Han Bennink join forces in to. Also playing are lo-fi Andrew this improv concert. Schweizer Hung of Fuck Buttons, poppy – a pivotal figure for female jazz pros The Molochs and guimusicians – is revered for her tar-driven hip-hoppers The Go! spontaneity and elaborate reperTeam. This show is part of the toire. And Bennink’s drumming Indiestad programme. is as adventurous as it is techThur 22 Feb, Paradiso, 18:30, nical. Needless to say, they’re €15 a swingy force to be reckoned with when they team up.

SON LUX Wed 27 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, The avant-pop trio led by the €17-€20 film and dance soundtrack

CLASSICAL NETHERLANDS WIND ENSEMBLE: NEW YEAR'S CONCERT 2018 It's hard to pigeonhole the Netherlands Wind Ensemble – mostly due to the fact that each of its musicians pursues their own style of music; this makes for an ensemble that embraces music from all times, genres and origins. The upcoming edition of their popular New Year's concert is an ode to the diversity of the European landscape, so prepare your ears for an evening celebrating the Earth as well as the new year.

As always, there'll also be a line-up of young, up-and-coming composers.

Mon 1 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:00, €15-€55 LEGENDARISCH NIEUWJAAR MET HET GELDERS ORKEST EN ROBY LAKATOS Start your 2018 right with this clash of classical and folk.

Revered gypsy-jazz violinist, improv pro and classical virtuoso Roby Lakatos performs a diverse programme of Central and Eastern European classics (folk and classical alike), with support from the Arnhem Philharmonic Orchestra.

Thur 4 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €34 DANIELE GATTI AND CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA: BRUCKNER Italian conductor Daniele Gatti had an astounding summer in London leading the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra at the BBC Proms, where they wowed crowds with Bruckner's Ninth Symphony. For this concert, the orchestra and its chief conductor will perform the score as well as works from Wagner's 'Parsifal'.

Fri 5 & Sun 7 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30 LISA JACOBS & THE STRING SOLOISTS This Dutch violinist's authoritative and exultant playing has won her many a seat among many of the world's leading orchestras. But for this concert, she's joined by The Stringed Soloists, a 14-person string ensemble for which Jacobs is the artistic leader. What sets the group apart from the pack is that they play without a conductor, which speaks volumes for the chemistry and adaptiveness of the ensemble. They will perform works by Vivaldi, Piazzolla, Ysaÿe and Locatelli.

Sun 7 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €18-€27 THE SOLDIER - FROM SEVERN TO SOMME This poignant performance includes a selection of war-inspired classical music. British operatic baritone Christopher Maltman's emotive voice will be put to the test with this programme of touching 19th- and 20th-century compositions by George Butterworth, Gabriel Fauré, Arthur Somervell and others. Maltman's voice is complemented aptly by pianist

Joseph Middleton, who won the Young Artist Award at the Royal Philharmonic Awards in 2016.

Wed 10 Jan, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €10-€37 PIETER JAN LEUSINK: ITALIAN BAROQUE German Baroque may be the main concern of the Bach Choir and Orchestra of the Netherlands, but there's so much more to them than just Bach. This performance proves just that – boasting a programme of esteemed Italian Baroque, including works by Pergolesi, Vivaldi and Boccherini. Dutch counter-tenor Sytse Buwalda and Russian soprano Olga Zinovieva will also be part of the performance.

Sun 21 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €30 SUNDAY AFTERNOON ORGAN RECITAL This monthly organ recital takes place in the beautiful church on Prinsengracht. International and local organists alike will perform various compositions on the venue's magnificent organ, which was built by famed 19th-century Dutch organ builder Franciscus Cornelius Smit and his son.

Sun 21 Jan, De Duif, 16:00, voluntary donation LES MUSICIENS DU LOUVRE: BACH'S BRANDENBURG CONCERTOS Almost lost to us during World War II, Bach’s six Brandenburg Concertos use an incredibly wide spectrum of instruments, and offer insight into the German composer’s immense skill and range. The compositions will on this evening be handled

by Les Musiciens du Louvre, a capable ensemble with some three decades of excellent baroque and classical work under their belts. The performance will also be prefaced by an introduction to the works – a worthwhile 30 minutes considering the rich history of this manuscript – courtesy of the Entrée youth club.

Tue 23 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23-€60 NETHERLANDS CHAMBER CHOIR: STRAVINSKY'S SYMPHONY OF PSALMS The Netherlands Chamber Choir are celebrated across the world for their adventurousness and their ability to pull off even the most intricate harmonies, which makes them an excellent choir to take on this three-movement choral symphony. With the help of conductor Peter Dijkstra and pianists Ralph van Raat and Bobby Mitchell, the choir will present Stravinsky's Symphony of Psalms in a whole new light.

Wed 24 Jan, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €10-€32 STRIJKKWARTET BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM 2018 Celebrate the powerful intimacy of the string quartet at this biennial music festival. Quartets from near and far are lined up for a wealth of concerts that explore the classical spectrum,

from the Renaissance to contemporary Dutch master Louis Andriessen, stopping off at great composers like Beethoven, Schubert and Haydn along the way.

27 Jan-3 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, muziekgebouw.nl MISCHA MAISKY'S 70TH BIRTHDAY! WITH MARTHAARGERICH AND JANINE JANSEN USSR-born Israeli cellist Mischa Maisky is turning 70, and he's marking the momentous birthday with this extra-special concert. The revered musician will be joined by Argentine classical pianist Martha Argerich, widely regarded as one of the greatest pianists of the latter half of the 20th century, and Dutch Music Prize-winner Janine Jansen (violin). They'll be performing compositions by Shostakovich and Tchaikovsky.

Mon 29 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €34-€90 MARK PADMORE AND KRISTIAN BEZUIDENHOUT: SCHUBERT'S WINTERREISE Tenor Mark Padmore – joined by world-class fortepianist Kristian Bezuidenhout – puts his elegant and intense voice through its paces with Franz Schubert's 'Winterreise' (Winter Journey).

Mon 29 Jan, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €34 THE IMPOSSIBLE VOYAGE The Impossible Voyage is a six-hour musical journey through the oeuvres of three pivotal composers: Ludwig van Beethoven, Benjamin Britten and Dmitri Shostakovich.

Their works will be brought to life by three talented stringed quartets: the Cuarteto Casals (Spain), the Quatuor Danel (France) and the Doric String Quartet (UK).

Fri 2 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 19:00, €29 SIGNUM QUARTET: JANÁCEK AND SCHUBERT Cologne's Signum Quartet – made up of Florian Donderer (violin), Annette Walther (violin), Xandi van Dijk (viola) and Thomas Schmitz (cello) – have made quite the splash on the classical music scene, establishing themselves as one of this generation's best known international quartets. They even won the ‘Best Chamber Music Recording’ award at the International Classical Music Awards back in 2014. They're performing Janáņek's 'Intimate Letters' and Schubert's 'Rosamunde Quartet' at this concert.

Sat 3 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 17:00, €26 EDO DE WAART CONDUCTS VERDI'S REQUIEM Verdi's seminal and melancholic Requiem will be led by Amsterdam-born conductor Edo de Waart at this concert.

He'll be leading Hilversum's skilled Netherlands Radio Philharmonic. Choral conductor Klaas Stok will be leading Veronica Simeoni (mezzo-soprano), Brian Jagde (tenor)

jan & feb 2018

and rising stars Leah Crocetto (soprano) and Brian Jagde (tenor).

Sat 3 Feb, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €40 ALMA QUARTET Every Saturday afternoon, Amsterdam's stunning Noorderkerk offers up an hour of top-notch music (typically of the classical variety). On this particular Saturday, the award-winning Alma Quartet – composed of members of the esteemed Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – will perform a show featuring compositions by Debussy, Glass and Schulhoff.

Sat 3 Feb, Noorderkerk, 14:00, €5-€16 ARVO PÄRT EN DE VOCAL RIJKDOM VAN ESTLAND Discover the beauty of Estonia's classical music as the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir – led by Kaspars Putniņš – perform compositions by Arvo Pärt, an Estonian composer who has been the most performed living composer in the world for the last five years.

Mon 5 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 RISING STARS: SINGER NORA FISCHER The clue's in the name with the 'Rising Stars' programme, which showcases exceptional up-andcoming young European music talent. This time, Amsterdam's own Nora Fischer is taking centre stage. She's known for pushing boundaries with her exquisite classical singing voice – equal parts versatile and virtuosic – that gels perfectly with able instrumentalists. She'll be performing with pianist Daniël Kool and theorbist Mike Fentross.

Wed 7 Feb, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23-€36 MESSIAEN, LIGETI, BOULEZ Award-winning Dutch pianist Ralph van Raat has a repertoire ranging from Bach to Boulez, and on this evening, you can enjoy a selection from some of his favourite French masters, amongst others. The evening’s programme includes masterpieces from the likes of Debussy and Boulez, as well as a previously unknown piano piece by Olivier Messiaen, which will be making its Dutch premiere.

Thur 8 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €10-€32 QUE L’AMOUR Jean-Philippe Rameau was a master Baroque composer and music theorist whose work audibly influenced generations of musicians. Superstar Jacques Brel was one such musician, and the marriage of their oeuvres is a feast for the ears, especially when delivered via the talent of Holland Baroque, with conductor Lars Ulrik Mortensen and the excellent Claron McFadden on soprano.

Sat 10 Feb, Muziekgebouw, 20:15, €10-€32 L'ACHÉRON: PURCELL'S FANTAZIAS French ensemble L'Achéron is comprised of young musicians

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TRACKS – BERLAGE SAXOPHONE QUARTET The Berlage Saxophone Quartet was formed here in Amsterdam back in 2008. Since then, the four young musicians – Lars Niederstraßer, Peter Vigh, KirsAN EVENING OF tin Niederstraßer and Eva van TODAY 2018 Grinsven – have won over the An Evening of Today is a colclassical world with their creativlective, creative event in which ity, spontaneity, enthusiasm and young professional composers – of course – musical acumen. and fresh conservatoire gradTheir 'TRACKS' show combines uates collaborate with the classical music with breathtaking talented musicians of the Nieuw visuals, lighting and stage décor Ensemble. Besides giving these – putting a youthful twist on the rising stars a stage, the event is musical style. an excellent opportunity for au- Thur 22 Feb, Royal Concertgediences to discover the current bouw, 21:00, €17-€27 generation of musicians, and ZAPPA'S PLAYLIST enjoy some unexpected, interKING ARTHUR disciplinary sounds. Don’t miss Nonconformists rejoice. FasciPurcell's semi-opera (spoken, with episodes of singing) 'King one of the most creative shows nated by composers like Varèse, Arthur', or the British Worthy, is a true masterpiece; it was of the year.

Stravinsky and Webern, Frank once described by conductor Nikolaus Harnoncourt as 'the Thur 15 Feb, Muziekgebouw Zappa developed a completely first musical in history'. The music is brilliant, lively, full of aan 't IJ, 20:15, €10-€32 unique avant-garde sound cheerful dance music and beautiful arias. With magicians, that still defies classification.

JUILLIARD QUARTET: knights, sirens and elves, this colourful spectacle (especially That’s the music you’ll immerse DVORÁK, HAYDN in the capable hands of Vox Luminis) is an excellent headliner yourself in if you attend Zappa's AND BARTÓK for the Muziekgebouw’s PurcellDag. Playlist, the sound of one of the Sun 11 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ, 20:15, €29.50-€37 The Juilliard are one of North most influential pop musicians America's quintessential string of the 20th century. quartets. Having just celebrated Thur 22 Feb, Muziekgebouw their 70th anniversary, the giftaan 't IJ, 20:15, €10-€32 ed musos are back with a new METROPOLE ORCHESTRA: programme. They'll be showcasALFRED HITCHCOCK'S ing their impeccable renditions BLACKMAIL of compositions by Dvořák, Bartók and Haydn.

Although 'Blackmail' (1929) Thur 15 & Sat 17 Feb, Royal is now part of film history for Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35being Alfred Hitchcock's first RESPIGHI'S PINES OF CONCERTGEBOUW €56 'talkie' (non-silent) film, there ROME ORCHESTRA HORIZON: was also a visually superior JAPANESE IMPRESSIONS AFTER WAGNER silent version of the iconic film.

Pini di Roma (Pines of Rome) Years after the death of Polish See this version with a newMatthias Pintscher makes his is Italian composer Ottorino composer Henryk Górecki, found level of musical gusto, Respighi’s four-movement debut as a guest conductor best known for his stunning as Amsterdam's Metropole for the Royal Concertgebouw poem about Rome, from the Third Symphony ('Symphony Orchestra perform an original vantage of the trees that have Orchestra. The performance of Sorrowful Songs') commem- accompanying soundtrack comsilently observed the city for is a precursor to the Van orating the lives lost during posed by Dolf van der Linden centuries. Each movement Gogh Museum's upcoming the Holocaust, a manuscript and Bob Zimmerman. is set in a different location, 'Van Gogh & Japan' exhibibased on Wagner's 'Tristan and Fri 23 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan such as the Villa Borghese, tion and features composiIsolde' was found at his desk. 't IJ, 20:15, €22-€27.50 to the Appian Way, where tions inspired by Japanese This, along with Beethoven’s a platoon advance along, 'ukiyo-e' art. The orchestra BERNARD HAITINK CONString Quartet No. 14, and some making the ground (and – joined by the Netherlands DUCTS BRAHMS' EIN excellent compositions courtesy your stomachs, thanks to Chamber Choir and AmeriDEUTSCHES REQUIEM of Turkish composer and master some very low organ playing) can-Canadian violinist Leila pianist Fazıl Say, can be enjoyed.

It’s easy to forget that ‘Ein tremble as they march. ReJosefowicz – will perform Fri 16 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan deutsches Requiem’ or ‘A Gerspighi’s love for his city will compositions by Japenese 't IJ, 20:15, €29.5-€37 man Requiem’ was a work of be faithfully reproduced by composers Toru Takemitsu a younger, more emotional the Radio Philharmonic Orand Noriko Baba – as well MARC ALBRECHT Brahms (pre-beard and cigar), chestra, conducted by Pietro as works by Debussy, whose CONDUCTS A PROGRAMME shaken by the deaths of both Rizzo and accompanied by colourful impressionism had OF SCHUMANN his mother and close friend and a huge influence on Takemit- the excellent Italian pianist German conductor Marc mentor Robert Schumann. The Enrico Pace. su's career.

Albrecht is experienced in work is Brahms’ longest compoSun 11 Feb, Royal ConcertgeThur 1 & Fri 2 Feb, Royal numerous aspects of classical sition, and – atypically for requibouw, 11:00, €18-€27 Concertgebouw, 20:15, music, but he's always had a soft ems – decidedly non-liturgical €23-€44 spot for the works of 19th-cenand free of Christian content, tury German composer Robert making it a work celebrated by from varied backgrounds. ('Babe') and Offenbach's 'Galop Schumann. He'll be leading some, and harshly criticised by Many of these members have Infernal' ('Moulin Rouge!') – all the Netherlands Philharmonic others. It is regardless one of the other artistic talents – includlovingly performed by the North Orchestra and award-winning composer’s (and period’s) greating improv, poetry and theatre Netherlands Symphony Orches- pianist Nelson Goerner in this est works, and in the hands of production, and this is reflected tra (NNO). programme that features only the Radio Philharmonic Orchesin their performances. This Wed 14 Feb, Royal ConcertgeSchumann's compositions. tra will leave you speechless. particularly magical concert bouw, 20:15, €35-€49 Sat 17 & Sun 18 Feb, Royal Sat 24 Feb, Royal Concertgefeatures 17th-century English Concertgebouw, 20:15, €16-€55 bouw, 14:15, €53-€60 BYCHKOV AND KATIA AND composer Henry Purcell's beMARIELLE LABÈQUE WITH BACH'S GIFT METROPOLE ORCHESTRA – loved fantasias, which are as THE CONCERTGEBOUW FILM MUSIC IN CONCERT technically challenging as they Much of the world’s greatest ORCHESTRA are beautiful. music would have been lost had Conducted by Vincent de Sun 11 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan Royal Concertgebouw regular it not been for the historical Kort, Amsterdam's Metropole 't IJ, 16:00, €10-€20 Semyon Bychkov, a popular patronage of royalty and the Orchestra performs plenty of Russian composer, joins forces wealthy, and so it comes as sweeping film soundtrack pieces VALENTINE CLASSICS with piano duo Katia and Marino surprise that compositions written for orchestra, including AT THE MOVIES elle Labèque (his sister-in-law were often gifted or dedicated Williams' 'The Shark Theme' Put away those chocolates and and wife respectively). The perto the composer’s patrons. ('Jaws'), Aronofsky's 'Lux Aeterflowers, and give the gift of clas- formers have a proven proficien- Bach’s Musikalisches Opfer to na' ('Requiem for a Dream') sical music this Valentine's Day. cy with the works of legendary Frederick II is one of the most and Armstong's 'Suite' ('Love This concert boasts some truly composers Dmitri Shostakovich significant.

Actually'). heartwarming compositions and Max Bruch, which they'll be Wed 21 Feb, Muziekgebouw, Tue 27 Feb-Thur 1 Mar, Royal from an array of films, featuring showing off at this show. Watch 22:00, €10-€32 Concertgebouw, 20:15, €40Saint-Saens' Organ Symphony in awe as the musically gifted €75 family – with the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – bring the revered compositions to life.

Thur 15 & Fri 16 Feb, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €27.50€113.50

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

STAGE EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. There’s also an early bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats, themes and open podiums. (almost) every Fri, CREA, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE A new weekly comedy show that tackles the art of longform improv. That makes for a more laidback experience than you'll usually find in Boom.

So sit back and let these storytellers wander to weird and wonderful places. (almost) every Sun, Boom Chicago, 19:00/20:00, €10€18 SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’.

Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW IN ENGLISH The clue's in the title. Standup comedy from a selection of performers, all in English. (almost) every Thur, Comedy Café, 20:30, €10-€12.50 FACETIME YOUR FEARS In its new show, the Boom Chicago crew take a look at what scares us in the modern world and the hilarious ways we deal with it. Embracing lightning-fast improv, they let rip at the pitfalls of modern technology. Dates for January & February to be confirmed.

Wed-Sat, Boom Chicago, various times & prices STANDUP OPERA WHAT THE GLUCK Enjoy a night out at the opera with a difference. Stand-up diva Quirine Melssen has a voice to die for, a wicked sense of humour and shows everyone the fun and drama of opera (without sitting in a advert

THE THINGS THAT PASS

25 JAN, 1 FEB SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

theatre for five hours).

Sun 7 Jan & 4 Feb, Comedy Café, 16.00, €15 AMSTERDAM ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS This monthly feature presented by the Boom Chicago crew brings the best international stand-up comics to the city.

Fri 19 Jan & 16 Feb, Boom Chicago, from €11 AMSTERDAM MAGIC SHOW The Amsterdam Magic Show is the city's first and only theatre show combining worldclass magic and comedy. Taking place in an atmospheric cabaret theatre in the heart of the old city, the monthly show brings together some of the best international magic and comedy acts on the circuit.

Tue 9 Jan & 6 Feb, Paleis van de Weemoed, 20:00, €25-€30 THE SLEEPING BEAUTY This take on 'The Sleeping Beauty' ballet is based on Marius Petipa’s original choreography, and produced and staged

by Sir Peter Wright of The Royal Ballet in London and the Birmingham Royal Ballet. Musical accompaniment comes courtesy of Tchaikovsky and the phenomenal Dutch Ballet Orchestra, conducted by Boris Gruzin. until 1 Jan, National Opera & Ballet, €19-€84 WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another magical seasonal run. It's one of the most acclaimed circus festivals in the world and features countless top stars of the ring.

Mon 1-Sun 7 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices JIM JEFFERIES Australian stand-up Jim Jefferies is set for a packed night at Amsterdam's Ziggo Dome.

His shows aren't for the easily offended, but if you're still there ten minutes into it then chances are you'll love it.

Sun 7 Jan, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €36.30-€64.90 SCALA Ed Wubbe's new choreographic work, 'Scala', is high-level theatrical dance, and the sequel to the very successful baroque piece Pearl. The 10 musicians of Combattimento, complemented by two opera singers, will delight with arias and violin concerts from the oeuvres of Vivaldi and Händel, among others.

Thur 11 Jan-Sat 13 Jan, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €20-€40 DANE BAPTISTE | G.O.D. (GOLD. OIL. DRUGS) Baptiste’s low-key delivery and mild manner mask his intense engagement with race and politics. In this new show, G.O.D. (Gold. Oil. Drugs), he dissects

Choice theatre

© VINCENT PONTET

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

TRISTAN AND ISOLDE Few operas have had as powerful an influence as Wagner’s medieval love story, 'Tristan and Isolde'. The opera was composed at a time of great tension for Wagner, who then struggled with a failed revolution, exile and a broken marriage, and his (sometimes contradictory) opinions and philosophy, especially on love and death, are what make this music drama one of the greatest ever written. Director of the Dutch Opera Pierre Audi – who will be directing this 'Tristan and Isolde' – has brought Wagner’s complexity back into the staging, as well as his own considerable experience.

Thur 18 Jan-Wed 14 Feb, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various dates & times, €27-€157

DANCING GRANDMOTHERS 'Dancing Grandmothers' explores the attitudes of Korean women to dance and ageing. This feel-good performance has already won the hearts of audiences worldwide, and following this success, the Korean Dancing Grandmothers are on their way to the Netherlands.

Travelling through her native Korea, choreographer Eun-Me Ahn discovered that women became visibly happier when she asked them to dance, and dance they did, to everything from folklore to electro.

That pure and ageless energy of even the most elderly inspired the young dancers of her EunMe Ahn Company.

Wed 24 Jan, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€35

the human race’s pursuit of wealth, power and pleasure.

Thur 25 Jan, Comedy Café, 20:30, €15

Kallman.

Thur 1-Wed 21 Feb, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €18-€140

THE PEARL FISHERS This new take on Bizet’s masterpiece, 'The Pearl Fishers', by the Kharkov National Opera and Ballet, has everything a good opera needs: love, conflict, style and sensuality.

Sat 27 Jan, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €45-€46

HOUSE DANCE FOREVER This international dance battle pits top talents from the urban and hip-hop dance scenes against each. A sister contest of the Summer Dance Forever festival, this event is about super tunes, big beats and cool dance moves.

Sat 3 & Sun 4 Feb, Paradiso, www.summerdanceforever.com

CARMINA BURANA For the first time in Carré, Russia's National Opera will perform Carl Orff’s legendary 'Carmina Burana', one of the greatest masterpieces of the 20th century.

Tue 30 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €23.50-€83.50 MÉDITERRANÉE A collection of dance performances by Spanish choreographers, all performed by Introdans, each varying in style and experience but all brought together by the Latin temperament, sensuality and lust for life.

Thur 1 Feb, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€35 THE RAKE’S PROGRESS This three-act opera is a tragic tale about what the devil does with idle hands and minds, and continues to appeal in no small part due to the music, a highlight from Stravinsky's neoclassical period, and the libretto

by WH Auden and Chester

THE LEGEND IS BACK! Martha Graham was one of the founders of modern dance. Her style, the Graham technique, reshaped American dance. In 'The Legend is Back!' the Martha Graham Dance Company celebrates her legacy.

Tue 13 Feb, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€37.50 DON QUIXOTE No ballet is more suited to combat the winter blues than 'Don Quixote', with its hot Spanish sun and hot Spanish temperament.

Tue 13 Feb-Sun 4 Mar, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €21-€86 MARKIPLIER - YOU'RE WELCOME TOUR YouTube phenomenon Markiplier made a name for himself with his irreverent vlogs, sketches and gaming commentaries. At this show, he's joined by fellow YouTubers LordMinion 777, Muyskerm, Tyler Scheid and CrankGameplays for a performance packed with comedy, improv and fan interaction.

Sat 17 Feb, RAI Amsterdam, 13.00/18:00, €31.90-€38.50 ENFANTS TERRIBLES ASHTON BROTHERS This Dutch slapstick comedy troupe have been responsible for a fantastic run of elaborate shows throughout the past decade. Language has never been a problem either. The not-actual brothers have taken their Buster Keaton-worthy ideas abroad before, as their energetic combinations of acrobatics, magic, music and general clowning about is clearly open to all ages and cultures.

Sat 17 Feb, De Meervaart, 20:15, €19-€29 ISABELLE BEERNAERT TABULA RASA Choreographer Isabelle Beernaert explores what it means to start over and seek freedom from constraints. This is set to music courtesy of Muse, Armand Amar, Max Richter and Damien Rice.

Sun 18 Feb, Royal Theatre Carré, 14:00, €17-€42

ZIEL/ROUH - ICK & AAO In this dance performance by ICK, two different disciplines – the music of the Amsterdam Andalusian Orchestra and contemporary dance – are made to clash, communicate and grow into an entirely new experience. Three choreographers work with each other, as they combine the styles of Tarab, the Sufi Andalusi and the Chaabi Andalusi.

Fri 9 & Sat 10 Feb, De Meervaart, 20:15, €15-€20

MACHINE DE CIRQUE A Canadian circus troupe with a difference, this five-man crew combine acrobatics and percussion with a wealth of spare parts. This show is set 15 years after the Apocalypse, as the last remaining survivors attempt to retain their humanity via creativity and ingenuity.

Tue 27 Feb, De Meervaart, 19:30, €10-€20

THE ANALOGUES THE WHITE ALBUM The Analogues are on a quest to perform songs by The Beatles exactly like they were originally arranged and recorded.

This Dutch tribute act might not look like the fab four, but you won’t hear anything closer to the real thing – unless you’ve got a time machine.

Tue 13 & Wed 14 Feb, Carré, 20:00, €19-€42.50

INSIDE OUT Choreographer Conny Janssen has returned to the stage with 'INSIDE OUT'.

It's about the beauty of the details in the big picture, and the vulnerable human behind an armoured façade. Expect an adventurous ensemble of dancers and a surprising musical team.

Tue 27 & Wed 28 Feb, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€35

jan & feb 2018

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE Choice clubbing CLUBBING REGULAR CLUBBING CHEEKY MONDAY Cheeky Monday recently moved from the cute little Winston Kingdom to Melkweg, a much larger venue. Tells you something about how well jungle and drum ‘n’ bass – the night’s core genres – are doing more than twenty years after these sounds were first heard around London. DJs in January and February include Nymfo, Ray Keith, Tradesman, Storm, and Thrasher.

Every Mon, Melkweg, 23.0005.00, €7.50 TECHNO TUESDAY It feels like the nineties are back – you can dance to banging techno even on a Tuesday. DJs for the first two months of 2018 include Giorgio Rusconi, Matt Sassari, Zakari & Blange, Richard Cleber, Hollen and Tom Hades.

Every Tue, Melkweg, 23:3005.00, FREE NOODLANDING! The most classic student night in town with DJs Willem and Arnold playing a mix of indie, urban, dance and pop.

Every Thu, Paradiso, 23:30, €6

basement with their vintage 4/4 sounds from before 2018.

Mon 1 Jan, De School, 14.0007.00, €22

CANVAS NACHT DJs Mino Abadier (Arabic by Night) and Beumer play a mix of Arabic, afro, house and disco.

Fri 5 Jan, Canvas, 23:00-04:00, €8, €4 before midnight

Vault Sessions present a night of heavy and dark techno in this scruffy warehouse in Amsterdam’s industrial west. Highlights on the line-up include O/V/R/, a collaborative project between Surgeon and Regis, and French sensation I Hate Models.

Sat 3 Feb, Warehouse Elementenstraat, 22.00-08:00, €40 X-QLUSIVE · FREQUENCERZ Hardstyle came up in the Netherlands when gabba lost its prominence. It’s basically the latter genre’s less subtle and sophisticated little brother (take that as a warning).

Sat 3 Feb, Afas Live, 22.0007:00, €52

PARADISE LOST A bass heavy club night with poppy drum & bass shining stars Delta Heavy headlining. More drum & bass and dubstep heroes to be announced.

Fri 5 Jan, Canvas, 23:30-05:30, €20 HARDCORE CLASSICS The Amsterdam-Rotterdam axis was the undisputed hardcore/ gabba epicentre back in the nineties so you can be sure DJs Angerfist, Bass-D, Nosferatu, Promo, Sequence and The Playa will find enough 160-200 BPM classics to keep you happy.

Sat 6 Jan, The Box, 22.0006.00, €27.50

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FADE BLANK A night of awfully hip but wonderful music with George Thompson aka Black Merlin – a front-runner in the analogue acid house / wave scene – headlining. Sub-headliner Phase Fatale fishes from the same waters with his synth heavy EBM and local warm up DJ Job Sifre will no doubt get you in the mood with similar vibes. Dark and cold club music all night long, who wouldn’t want to dance to that?

Sat 2 Feb, Shelter, 22:00-07:00, €16.90

VERKNIPT FIVE YEAR ANNIVERSARY The birthday party for these classic techno heads with Slam, Gary Beck, Fatima Hajji, The Yellowheads, Camelphat, Wouter S, Remco Beekwilder and others.

Sat 6 Jan, The Box, 22.0006.00, €27.50

HOUSE RULES A classic club night centred around bouncing house with fat basslines, pounding kicks and jumping hi-hats. DJs Raymundo, CANVAS NACHT Troj and Gabriel & Castellon play Aurelio - resident DJ of the ever on rotation.

Every Fri, Escape, 22.00-05.00, eclectic community broadcasters Red Light Radio - spins tunes €16 with a friend.

BRAINWASH Fri 12 Jan, Canvas, 23:0004:00, €8, €4 before midnight Brainwash is all about the big WONDERLAND room house sound (the sort of FESTIVAL INDOOR INSIDES music that makes you forget Banging is the keyword at Druggy hands-up-in-the-air about anything outside of the Wonderland, and if that’s minimal techno at its best, with dance floor, you’re not allowed Germany’s Dominik Eulberg to think anymore). With DJ your thing it is impossible and Italian producer Rone both Raymundo and friends plus goto go wrong with ROD, the playing extended live sets. go dancers and VJs to make your hard techno alter ego of Fri 19 Jan, Westerunie, 21.00big room night compete.

Rotterdam’s Benny Rodri04.30, €20 Every Sat, Escape, 22.00-05.00, gues. Also DJ-ing are excit€16 ing duo Headstrong (ScotCANVAS NACHT ENCORE tish producers Randomer Tala Drum Corps brings you the weirder side of house music This is the most popular urban and Cloud) whose beats are while DJ trio Lelystad plays club night in the Netherlands and brutal and sophisticated at anything within the house/italo for good reason: you’ll hear hits once Closing the line-up are disco/electro triangle. but not too many; songs played the equally hammering duo Fri 19 Jan, Canvas, 23:00are a mix of new from the US, SHDW & Obscure Shape.

04:00, €8, €4 before midnight UK and the Netherlands; plus Sat 17 Feb, Warehouse the whole thing is presented by VANDALISED Elementenstraat, 22:00excellent local DJs Waxfriend and After the first Vandalised last Prime. With regular local and 06:00, €35 November in East London’s international guest appearances.

XOYO – curated by one of AmEvery Sat, Melkweg, 22.00sterdam’s finest up and coming home tonight. DJs Hato, Slick 05.00, €16 DJs Jarreau Vandal – this is the and Gurney Champion play BREAKFAST CLUB follow-up.

R&B, house and slow jams IS BURNING Sat 20 Jan, Claire, 23.00-06.00, until bedtime. €15 Fri 26 Jan, Jazz in the City, The city’s most infamous after19:00-03.00, €12 hours promoters Breakfast Club join hands with Is Burning– one THUISHAVEN WINTERCIRCUS CANVAS NACHT Germany’s house and techno of the hottest LGBT nights. jock Karotte is rapidly approJoel Hemmen and Herra play Mon 1 Jan, Warehouse Elemenaching the age of fifty and still house and a mix of snappy UK tenstraat, 08:00-17:00, €25 going strong. That’s what we and US garage – unusual sounds DE NIEUW deduct from the announcement for Amsterdam! of a 10-hour set anyway.

Fri 26 Jan, Canvas, 23:00An after-after party that lasts Sun 21 Jan, Thuishaven, 13:00- 04:00, €8, €4 before midnight fifteen hours… Wow guys!

23.00, €17.50 Marcel Dettmann, Cinnaman, OUWE STIJL IS BOTERGEIL Elias Mazian, Dollkraut (live), There are other places to Max Abysmal, Interstellar Funk, THE SLEEPOVER PRESENTS VUNZIGE DEUNTJES celebrate the rave/gabba legacy Jasper Wolff & Maarten MitUnique about this party are the than just the super famous (and tendorf, Makam, Sandrien and sleepover opportunities. That commercial) Thunderdome many more are set to overwhelm means no need to take anyone raves. Ouwe Stijl Is Botergeil De School’s hip and dark techno

KLEAR A night of non-commercial future bass with DJs Siroj, Full Crate, Melle Jutte playing music for fans of Snakehips, Kaytranada and Hudson Mohawke.

Sat 3 Feb, Paradiso, midnight-06:00, €20 WINTER WOOFERLAND A banging indoor event like you don’t see them much anymore at indie-temple Paradiso. With veteran headliners Der Dritte Raum (live), Spider, JP, Natarcia, JP, Erick E and MC ehm…

Complicated.

Sat 10 Feb, Paradiso, 21:0005:00, €30 FILTH ACID Reinier Zonneveld plays a 7-hour long bubbly acid live set.

Sat 10 Feb, De Marktkantine, 22.00-05:00, €20

GIEGLING AT THUISHAVEN The label around artists such as Kettenkarussel, Traumprinz and Vril received some negative publicity early in 2017 when the label’s co-founder expressed his sexist opinions about the role of women in the dance scene. Nevertheless Giegling remains one of the most hyped labels of the moment, and a label night at a venue the size of Thuis­ haven only proves it. If you like your techno melancholic, this is your night.

Sat 24 Feb, Thuishaven, 13.00-04:00, €17.50

brings you hardcore music, but on a human scale. With Trypticon, The Destroyer (live), The Speedfreak & Aggroman, Frantic Freak and more.

Sat 27 Jan, Q Factor, 22:0008.00, €17.50

KYGO KIDS IN LOVE TOUR Five years ago, very few people would have thought you could fill the Ziggo Dome with a dance sound as slow paced as Kygo’s.

But since his breakthrough single ‘Firestone’ came out in 2014, the lazy rave beats of tropical house’s biggest don have been copied again and again.

Tue 13 Feb, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €38 LUMINOSITY TRANCE GATHERING Step into the time machine and feel euphoric like in the glory days of trance, as if EDM never happened. The international line-up includes Ciaran McAuley, Craig Connely, Giuseppe Ottaviani, Jamie Baggots, Factor B, Maria Healy, David Rust and Sean Tyas.

Fri 16 Feb, Panama, 21:0005:00, €30 DAGVERBLIJF Good thing (is it?) about the postmodern age is you have playgrounds for adults. Have a few shots at the bar before you dive into the ball pond. DJs AJay, Marcel Bruist, Wiseman and Ninong Lijong play house.

Sat 17 Feb, VLLA, 14:00-midnight, €20

INTERCELL ACID NIGHT The Roland 303 sound (aka the acid bleep) takes over the dance floor. Dive right into that PLEINVREES ON TOUR bleep with ROD aka Benny Rodrigues, Regal, Loek Frey, Pleinvrees specialises in easily di999999999 (live) and Minimum gestible uplifting house. No brain Syndicat (live). needed tonight! Headlining this Sat 27 Jan, H7 Warehouse, evening is Damon Lazarus from 23:00-08.00, €25 Los Angeles.

Sat 17 Feb, Paradiso, 22:00VAULT SESSIONS #3 06:00, €30 As if February isn’t grim enough,

56

PART IV THE A-LIST.

FESTIVALS 50 JAAR BIJLMER On 25 November 2018, it will be exactly 50 years since the first residents moved into the Bijlmer neighbourhood in Amsterdam Zuidoost. With that anniversary in sight, look out for a variety of cultural, sporty and family-friendly festivities taking place throughout 2018. until 25 Nov, various locations, www.amsterdam. nl/50jaarbijlmer AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL Brighten up your winter by exploring the latest edition of the Amsterdam Light Festival.

From 17:00 to 23:00 each night, light art will bring new colour, technological innovation and artistic flair to iconic spots throughout the city centre – all on or beside the canals. Until 7 January, there's also a special route through the Marineterrein, just east of Central Station, with 20 artworks best explored on foot. until 21 Jan, various locations, amsterdamlightfestival.com HORTUS BY LIGHT Amsterdam's Hortus Botanicus is always stunning, thanks to its beautiful displays of fauna, foliage and plant life.

But this programme invites attendees to see the garden in a whole new light – after dark! Enjoy a beautifully illuminated garden, a winter terrace with a campfire – glass of mulled wine in hand – or follow the after-dark trail. until 7 Jan, Hortus Botanicus, www.dehortus.nl CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM The brainchild of Dutch cellist Ella van Poucke and her brother, pianist Nicolas van Poucke, this festival will once again unite top-notch international musicians.

1 Jan, Amstelkerk, www. kamermuziekfestivalamsterdam.com LOST & FOUND IN PARADISO An annual fixture on Paradiso's calendar, artists, writers and musicians present work in progress, experiment or present work that doesn't (yet) fit into their oeuvre. Basically, anything goes, but this curated advert

IBSEN HOUSE

8, 15 FEB SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

cultural gathering certainly has entertainment at its heart.

12 Jan, Paradiso, www.paradiso.nl AMSTERDAM HOTEL NIGHT Residents can experience Amsterdam through the eyes of a tourist by enjoying an overnight stay in a local hotel.

A programme of culinary, creative and cultural events once again adds additional sparkle, with many of the participating hotels putting on special dining events. Later in the evening, guests can party, socialise and discover new experiences during the event programme.

13 & 14 Jan, various locations, www.hotelnacht.nl PARADISO CHOIR DAYS It may be a modern-day pop temple but Amsterdam’s Paradiso was originally a church.

So it’s fitting that the entire venue gets turned over to every type of choir imaginable every January. The Paradiso Choir Days are an annual tradition that attracts a broad mix of choirs and audience members. Expect around 140 performances throughout the weekend, featuring amateur singing groups of all ages and all genres.

13 & 14 Jan, Paradiso, www.paradiso.nl FIRST ART FAIR Get the new year going with a burst of artistic flair. This refreshed art fair promises a vibrant selection of paintings, sculpture, photography, glass and jewellery from hundreds of contemporary artists. Expect everything from abstract to figurative, with around 30 renowned galleries leading the selection of works.

17-21 Jan, Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, www. firstartfair.nl WHISKY WEEKEND AMSTERDAM Peaty, oaky, creamy, smoky – those are just a few words to describe whisky like a pro at this annual whisky event.

The event celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and tickets include a welcome whisky with souvenir glass and a bottle of water.

19 & 20 Jan, Posthoornkerk, www.whiskyamsterdam.nl IMPRO AMSTERDAM Featuring world-class improv actors from all over the globe, this international improvisation theatre festival welcomes guests from around the world, ensuring a vibrant language-no-problem selection.

Alongside the main performances, there are late-night shows, workshops, IMPRO talks, an open stage and an afterparty to top it all off.

22-27 Jan, Compagnietheater, www.impro-amsterdam.nl KICKSTART EUROPE 2018 Amsterdam's ICT scene is absolutely thriving, so it's only fitting that this year's

Choice festivals

NATIONAL TULIP DAY While the tulip remains one of Amsterdam’s most notable icons, few visitors get to experience the flower this early in the year – at the Flower Market, yes, but not the rural fields ablaze in colour. However, National Tulip Day brings some much-needed cheer to a cold January weekend, with visitors invited to experience a huge temporary tulip garden on Dam Square where they can even pick their own beautiful bloom.

20 Jan, Dam Square, www.tulpen.nl KickStart Europe Conference is happening here. The event will bring together investors, developers and designers who will provide insights on ground-breaking topics such as data centres and cloud computing.

24 Jan, RAI Amsterdam, www.kickstartconf.eu JUMPING AMSTERDAM This international event is an annual highlight of the Dutch equestrian calendar that never fails to draw the world’s best riders, including Olympic champions! The event includes showjumping and dressage competitions (including an FEI World Cup event), performances, evening entertainment, demos and workshops for kids, an exhibition area and a host of bars and restaurants.

25-28 Jan, RAI Amsterdam, www.jumpingamsterdam.nl DJANGO AMSTERDAM The Django Festival celebrates the birthday of legendary gypsy jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt.

Expect professional workshops, fun jam sessions and a lin-eup of world-class gypsy jazz performers at this festival.

26 & 27 Jan, Bimhuis, www.bimhuis.nl STRIJKKWARTET BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM 2018 Celebrate the powerful intimacy of the string quartet at this biennial music festival. Quartets are lined up for a wealth of concerts that explore the classical spectrum, from the Renaissance to contemporary Dutch master Louis Andriessen, and great composers like Beethoven and Schubert.

27 Jan-3 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.muziekgebouw.nl

CHOCOA FESTIVAL Not just made to be consumed in gulps, chocolate has nuances that can be learned through serious tasting. Head to the Chocoa Festival to learn how to ‘slow’ taste and learn all about the history of chocolate. Also look out for chocolate workshops organised by chocolate makers and other experts, and discover how you can pair chocolate with wine, coffee and craft beer at the more than 75 stands.

24 & 25 Feb, Beurs van Berlage, www.chocoa.nl AMSTERDAM'S ACCORDEON FESTIVAL Look out for tangos, cinematic sounds, bursts of classical, and even the local folk sounds of the Amsterdam 'levenslied'.

28 Jan, Het Zonnehuis, www.stadsherstel.nl LITTLE ITALY TASTE & TRAVEL This event transforms a small corner of Amsterdam into Italy for one special weekend.

Get some inspiration for your next holiday, fill your belly with the tastiest Italian snacks and dishes, and discover Italy for the first time.

2-4 Feb, Westergasfabriek, www.littleitaly-event.nl HOUSE DANCE FOREVER This international dance battle pits top talents from the urban and hip-hop dance scenes against each. A sister contest of the Summer Dance Forever festival, this event is about super tunes, big beats and cool dance moves.

Sat 3 & Sun 4 Feb, Paradiso, summerdanceforever.com CHINESE NEW YEAR In 2018, Chinese New Year falls on 16 February. While it may still be a bit chilly outside, there'll be plenty of partying to warm things up and celebrate the dawning of the year of the dog. Festivities traditionally take place around the historic Nieuwmarkt neighbourhood on the Saturday nearest New Year's Day, so look out for impromptu parades, fireworks and hot and tasty Asian foods.

16-18 Feb, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com WONDERLAND FESTIVAL The Wonderland Festival invites you to follow the white rabbit, serving up a menu of

rumbling house and techno beats for those with a passion for all things EDM. 17 Feb, Warehouse Elementenstraat, www.verknipt.org PLEINVREES ON TOUR Pleinvrees kicked off in 2010 as a small-scale Queen's Day party in Amsterdam. Eight years later, the event now draws in thousands of revellers across the major cities of the Netherlands. Originally driven by a love for melodic house music, the festival has since branched out to include other electronic genres.

17 Feb, Paradiso, www.paradiso.nl FITC AMSTERDAM X FITC stands for future, innovation, technology and creativity, so it's geared towards those working or interested in the fields of design and technology – as well as the numerous areas where they overlap.

19 & 20 Feb, Pakhuis de Zwijger, www.fitc.ca STUKAFEST AMSTERDAM This annual festival sees student’s rooms transformed into mini-theatres, hosting live music, shows, poetry, cabaret and dance performances.

You'll find a host of language-no-problem content.

21 Feb, various locations, www.stukafest.nl/amsterdam SONIC ACTS ACADEMY Coming round every two years, this academic variant of the Sonic Acts festival looks at art as a means of knowledge production. Over the course of three days, artists will present work that challenges the sterile dichotomy of theory versus practice. Events are usually found around town in venues like Paradiso and the Stedelijk Museum. Stay tuned to the website for the full programme.

23-25 Feb, various locations, www.sonicacts.com PAC FESTIVAL The Pathé Alternative Cinema (PAC) Festival is mostly focused on mainstream cinema, from blockbusters to potential fringe hits. Its unique selling point is a programme featuring five preview releases of movies nominated for international major awards, and they're screened back to back.

Date to be confirmed.

25 Feb, Pathé Tuschinski, www.pathe.nl TAARTROVERS FILM FESTIVAL Just in time for the school holidays, this fun film festival (formerly called the Fantastisch Kinderfilm Festival) presents a vibrant programme suitable for 2 to 9 year olds.

As well as the screenings, kids will love the imagination-inspiring installations that double up as a playground.

26 Feb-4 Mar, EYE Filmmuseum, www.taartrovers.nl

57

jan & feb 2018

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month.

Club Lite, garboforwomen.nl GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie. The reception – with a welcome drink – usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathé website for movie and time. pathe.nl/event/gaynight HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Horsemen and Knights is the big willy gay play and cruise party, taking place in the afternoon every third Sunday of the month. Dress code: naked or underwear.

Doors open 15:00-16:00 Eagle, horsemen.nl MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas.

Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only.

NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits.

Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15 SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is 'No Towel Night' (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00.

Every Tue, Sauna NZ, saunanieuwezijds.nl (Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam.

The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted.

Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited.

Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, 22:00-05:00, €10

ONE-OFF EVENTS BREAKFAST CLUB IS BURNING The city’s most infamous after-hours promoters Breakfast Club join hands with Is Burning – one of the hottest LGBT nights right now, co-run by Sandrien and Carlos Valdes. We can’t imagine you’ll go to bed early

the night before so get ready for a tough Tuesday if you go to this one, but it’ll be worth the pain.

Mon 1 Jan, Warehouse Elementenstraat, 08:00-17:00, €25 NUDE CLUB Nude Club Amsterdam is, as the name implies, a nude gay cruise and play party once a month on Sunday afternoon. Dress code: shoes only.

Sun 7 Jan and 4 Feb, Eagle horsemen.nl TRUE COLORS True Colors brings the leaders and supporters of the Dutch LGBT movement together for an unforgettable evening in Paradiso. The COC organizes this unique event as a token of thanks to the movement, the supporters and its members.

True Colors is the event where almost 2,000 LGBT sympathizers from hundreds of organizations make new valuable connections, look back on joint successes in the fight for equal rights and usher in the new 'pink' year with spectacular entertainment.

Sun 28 January, Paradiso truecolors.coc.nl FUN HOUSE Popular gay dance parties in Westerunie at the Westergasfabriek, an old industrial factory hall. The music is a little more vocal than the Rapido parties. Expect dancers in crazy costumes and a busy party.

Sat 17 Feb WesterUnie, clubrapido.com

ADDRESSES Club Air Amstelstraat 16 www.clubair.nl Akhnaton Nieuwezijdskolk 25-27 akhnaton.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eagle Warmoesstraat 90 theeagleamsterdam.com Club Lite Jan van Galenstraat 24 clublite.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 marktkantine.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.n OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 occii.org Panama Oostelijke Handelskade 4 panama.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl

SPORTS EVENTS

Highlight sport

FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, Amsterdam’s skating extravaganza. Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own.

Check the website for route updates and news each week. every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com NEW YEAR SWIM Start your New Year’s fitness regime with a dip in the sea (or river). If you’re feeling the effects of the New Year’s Eve celebrations, there might be no better cure than a swim in the freezing North Sea waters at Zandvoort aan Zee or IJmuiden. Even those who prefer to stay on dry land can join in the fun and enjoy a hot cup of pea soup.

1 Jan, various locations, www.nieuwjaarsduik.info AJAX They're Amsterdam's top football club, known around the world for their distinctive red-and-white shirt and for their legacy of Dutch and European victories. The club have a number of home matches coming up after the winter break: Feyenoord (21 Jan); NAC Breda (4 Feb); FC Twente (11 Feb); ADO Den Haag (25 Feb).

Jan & Feb, Amsterdam ArenA, www.ajax.nl FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run.

12 Jan & 9 Feb, Olympic Stadium, www.fridaynightrun.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN If you're serious about your ice skating, the Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. As well as an indoor arena, there's a 400-metre outdoor track, the rink is home to the city's ice hockey team the Amstel Tijgers, or take part in a curling session.

Plus there's a fever burning every Saturday night for the weekly disco skating sessions.

Jan & Feb, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, www.jaapeden.nl APOLLO BASKETBALL Catch Amsterdam's premier basketball team at the Apollo Hall in Amsterdam Zuid.

Upcoming home ties against other Dutch teams take place on 13 & 20 Jan, 3 & 10 Feb. Jan & Feb, Apollohal, www. apollobasketball.nl VONDELPARKLOOP A sporting event for the whole

DE COOLSTE BAAN VAN NEDERLAND This winter, ice fans are set to travel from all over the country to skate in one of the most historic stadiums in the Netherlands: Amsterdam’s Olympic Stadium. For an entire month, the stadium will host an impressive oval ice track as well as custom rinks, stages, and food and drink stalls in the middle of the field. Check out a special theme session, try your hand at speed skating, or even an ice sport like curling. This skating experience is a precursor to a world championship speed skating event being held in the stadium in March.

18 Jan-28 Feb, Olympic Stadium, www.decoolstebaanvannederland.nl

ICE*AMSTERDAM Christmas may be over but winter certainly isn't. So embrace the season as ICE*Amsterdam presents a unique ice skating experience on Amsterdam's Museumplein, with the Rijksmuseum as a phenomenal backdrop. Whether you're young or old, a twirling ice dancer or a first-timer staying upright by willpower alone, you'll love the atmosphere of this rink, as tourists, couples, friends and families mix together. Stop off for skating lessons, take part in group ice games, or dare to try the human curling (or just regular curling). until 4 Feb, Museumplein, www.iceamsterdam.nl

family, the Vondelparkloop weaves through the famous park in Amsterdam, following the main pathways to distances of up to 10km. Part of the charm of the event is its accessibility, so even if you don’t fancy a run, come along and support those taking part!

20 & 21 Jan, Vondelpark, www.vondelparkloop.nl JUMPING AMSTERDAM This international event is an annual highlight of the Dutch equestrian calendar that never fails to draw the world’s best riders, including Olympic champions! The event includes showjumping and dressage competitions (including an FEI World Cup event), performances, evening entertainment, demos and workshops for kids, an exhi-

bition area and a host of bars and restaurants.

25-28 Jan, RAI Amsterdam, www.jumpingamsterdam.nl advert

Local Food Lunch - Dinner Bar - Live Jazz

brasserienel.nl | Amstelveld 12

58

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS, VISIT AMSTERDAMART.COM.

YOUR EYES PEELED, 2016



Esiri Erheriene-Essi (UK, 1982) is fascinated by a continued investigation of mass media, pop cultural iconography, appropriation, and mythology, as well as repetition of imagery. Her work derives from found images, mainly polaroids, often taken from archives. These form the basis of her colourful and expressive paintings.

20 JAN–17 FEB Galerie Ron Mandos Prinsengracht 282

TMH. COURTESY OF THE ARTISTS.

IMAGE: ESIRI ERHERIENE-ESSI, KEEP

GRESS / MARY SUE: THINKING ABOUT THE SHOW AT

IMAGE: MAARTEN NAUW

2. MAKING THINGS HAPPEN – YOUNG ARTISTS IN DIALOGUE II:



The Merchant House invites Elsa Tomkowiak (FR, 1981) and Mary Sue to interpret the topography of the building, rich with Golden Age symbolism, as a contemporary public sphere.

UNTIL 26 JAN The Merchant House Herengracht 254

3. NEW WORKS ON PAPER – IAN DAVENPORT Ian Davenport (1966, UK) is one of the most important abstract painters of his generation in Britain. This exhibition will show a new series of large colour etchings on paper, both unique etching prints and editions of his famous poured images.

ETCHING ON PAPER, 115 X 165,8 CM, EDITION: 35

13 JAN–24 FEB Slewe Kerkstraat 105 A



4. NEW CERAMIC WORKS - DELPHINE COURTILLOT

The collective myths hidden deep inside the human subconscious, that connect us with our primal past, manifest themselves through emotions and desires within the material force of her artworks.

X 40 CM. 2017

& ANSWERS, CERAMIC AND GLAZE, 109 X 56

IMAGE: DELPHINE COURTILLOT, QUESTIONS

IMAGE: IAN DAVENPORT, COLOURCADE BUZZ, 2015.

IMAGE: ELSA TOMKOWIAK: WORK IN PRO-

1. ESIRI ERHERIENE-ESSI

13 JAN–17 FEB C&H Gallery Tweede Kostverlorenkade 50



5.TERRESTRIAL RECORDS - BY ELLEN DE BRUIJNE PROJECTS

For this exhibition, works

by Lara Almarcegui, Pauline Curnier Jardin, Falke Pisano, Jeremiah Day, Pauline Boudry/Renate Lorenz, Maria Pask and Michael Smith explore diverse contemporary themes such as our attitude and relationship with nature and the interplay between digitalization, power and privacy.



UNTIL 25 MAY Manifesta Foundation Herengracht 474

FILM FAVOURITES THE LEISURE SEEKER

Sometimes all you need is a simple but sweet story made by people who understand their craft. The Leisure Seeker, about an old couple’s (Helen Mirren, Donald Sutherland) travails around America, checks all those boxes. By the director of the superb dramedy La Pazza Gioia.

Directed by Paolo Virzì Release 4 January

YOU WERE NEVER REALLY HERE

There are certainly worse things for your movie to be called than ‘Taxi Driver of the 21st Century.’ Joaquin Phoenix proves a perfect fit as Joe, a former soldier and law enforcement officer turned contractor, who is asked to retrieve the teen daughter of a high-ranking politician.

Directed by Lynne Ramsay Release 4 January

DOWNSIZING

The plot, a fortysomething couple (Matt Damon, Kristen Wiig) who decides to literally downsize (shrink themselves to 5 inches) for a cheaper, more comfortable life, sounds like something Spike Jonze or Michel Gondry would dream up. But director Alexander Payne has a bigger story to tell. Christoph Waltz, Hong Chau co-star.

Directed by Alexander Payne Release 25 January

PHANTOM THREAD

A pair-up between director Paul Thomas Anderson and Daniel Day-Lewis – their first since There Will Be Blood – will always be worth your money. Knowing that his role as a clothing designer who becomes obsessed with a strongwilled young woman will be his last, makes this a must-see.

Directed by Paul Thomas Anderson Release 1 February

THE FLORIDA PROJECT

Move in with bubbly, precocious six-year-old Moonee (Brooklynn Prince) and her down-on-her-luck mother (Bria Vinaite) in their dumpy Orlando motel, not that far from The Happiest Place on Earth. A bittersweet story about childhood with a great performance

by Willem Dafoe as the motel manager.

Directed by Sean Baker Release 8 February

THE CHILDREN ACT

For me, any movie that features Emma Thompson is a no-brainer. Her performance as a High Court Judge who must decide if she forces a minor (Fionn Whitehead from Dunkirk) to have a lifesaving blood transfusion may just prove to be one of her best.

Directed by Richard Eyre Release 15 February

WHITE BOY RICK

After his harrowing feature film debut ’71, director Yann Demange now turns his lens on the real-life story of Richard Wershe Jr., who became an undercover informant as a teenager, but was later arrested for drug trafficking. With Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Jason Leigh and Bruce Dern.

Directed by Yann Demange Release 15 February

I, TONYA

Who says biopics have to be straight-faced? Certainly not the director who made I, Tonya, based on the ‘irony-free, wildly contradictory and totally true’ interviews with now infamous champion figure skater Tonya Harding (Margot Robbie), who may or may not have ordered the assault on her biggest competitor. Allison Janney (as Tonya’s hilariously horrible mom) might nab herself her first Oscar.

Directed by Craig Gillespie Release 22 February

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59

KIDS & FAMILY VENUES DISCO SWIMMING Take a dip, dive and dance every Friday evening at this splashin' party in Amsterdam Zuid. The recreational pool is open to kids up to the age of 14, from 19:00 until 21:00. every Fri, Mirandabad, www.mirandabad.nl OUT IN NATURE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS Even in the dead of winter, the Amsterdamse Bos is the ideal spot to entertain and educate kids about the nature on our doorstep. Look out for regular guided walks with wardens, animal labs, boat tours, workshops and simple fun and games. Head to the

skating, the Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. As well as an indoor arena, there's a 400-metre outdoor track, the rink is home to the city's ice hockey team the Amstel Tijgers, or take part in a curling session. Plus there's a fever burning every Saturday night for the weekly disco skating sessions.

Jan & Feb, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, www.jaapeden.nl

THE SLEEPING BEAUTY This take on 'The Sleeping Beauty' ballet is based on Marius Petipa’s original choreography, and produced and staged

by Sir Peter Wright of The Royal Ballet in London and the Birmingham Royal Ballet. Musical accompaniment comes courtesy of Tchaikovsky and the phenomenal Dutch Ballet Orchestra, conducted by Boris Gruzin. until 1 Jan, National Opera & Ballet, €19-€84

ICE*AMSTERDAM Christmas may be over but winter certainly isn't.

So embrace the season as ICE*Amsterdam presents a unique ice skating experience on Amsterdam's Museumplein, with the Rijksmuseum

CIRCUS ZANZARA Circus Zanzara specialise in a mix of traditional circus acts, street theatre, performance and live music. Expect fun for all the family in their classic circus tent. until 7 Jan, Westergasfabriek, www.circuszanzara.com

Highlight kids

SOUNDLAB Everyone can be musical but the recurring SoundLAB workshops at Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ offer plenty of twists thanks to weird and wonderful instruments.

The workshops are typically for kids (and adults) 7 and up. More than just making a racket, the group present their musical work at the end of the session.

21 Jan & 18 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.muziekgebouw.nl Amsterdamse Bos website for the weekly schedule.

Jan & Feb, Amsterdamse Bos, www.amsterdamsebos.nl HET NEDERLANDS MARIONETTENTHEATER A charming marionette theatre with performances for children aged 4 to 10 (sometimes to 12). Puppets bring magical tales like 'Rumpelstiltskin', 'Pinocchio' and 'The Magic Violin' to life. Productions are in Dutch but the music and visuals ensure that language is no barrier. various dates Jan & Feb, Het Nederlands Marionettentheater, www.nederlandsmarionettentheater.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN If you're serious about your ice

ADRESSES

KERMIS (FUNFAIR) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed great fun at any age. The food stands with sausage broodjes, candy floss and churros don't hurt the spirit either.

23 Feb-4 Mar, Buikslotermeerplein as a phenomenal backdrop.

Whether you're young or old, a twirling ice dancer or a first-timer staying upright by willpower alone, you'll love the atmosphere of this rink, as tourists, couples, friends and families mix together. Stop off for skating lessons, take part in group ice games, or dare to try the human curling (or just regular curling). until 4 Feb, Museumplein, www.iceamsterdam.nl WINTERVILLAGE AMSTELVEEN Amstelveen's town square hosts an atmospheric Christmas market with an ice skating rink and 60 stalls selling winter food, drinks and Christmas gifts. until 7 Jan, Stadsplein (Amstelveen), www.wintervillageamstelveen.nl

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another magical seasonal run. It's one of the most acclaimed circus festivals in the world and features countless top stars of the ring.

Mon 1-Sun 7 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices WOEF SIDE STORY This jovial musical parody of 'West Side Story' is presented

by Het Rotterdam Theater. Set in a world of dog shows and dog salons, the story still boils down to a tale of class and forbidden love. The performance is in Dutch and aimed at kids eight and over.

25-28 Jan, Stadsschouwburg, www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl MACHINE DE CIRQUE A Canadian circus troupe with a difference, this five-man crew combine acrobatics and percussion with a wealth of spare parts. This show is set 15 years after the Apocalypse, as the last remaining survivors attempt to retain their humanity via creativity and ingenuity.

Tue 27 Feb, De Meervaart, 19:30, €10-€20

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THE OTHER VOICE

22 FEB, 1 MAR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 arcam.nl Beurs van Berlage Damrak 243 beursvanberlage.com Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 tassenmuseum.nl Cobra Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen cobra-museum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61A verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 foam.org Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 jhm.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 hermitage.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen jvdtogt.nl De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square nieuwekerk.nl Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23 oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl National Maritime Museum Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 tropenmuseum.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 vangoghmuseum.nl Museum van Loon Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl STAGE AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 boomchicago.nl Comedy Cafe 89, IJdok comedycafe.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 crea.uva.nl De Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Paleis van de Weemoed Oudezijds Voorburgwal 15 paleis-van-de-weemoed.nl Paradiso

Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl RAI Europaplein rai.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 theaterbellevue.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 ziggodome.nl MUSIC AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 bitterzoet.com The Box Mekongweg 5 the-box.events Conservatorium van Amsterdam Oosterdokskade 151 conservatoriumvanamsterdam.nl De Duif Prinsengracht 756 deduif.net De Hallen Hannie Dankbaarpassage 47 dehallen-amsterdam.nl Escape Rembrandtplein 11 escape.nl Gashouder Westergasfabriek, Klönneplein westergasfabriek.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 marktkantine.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 muziekgebouw.nl NedPhO-Koepel Batjanstraat 3 orkest.nl Oosterkerk Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 1 oosterkerk-amsterdam.nl Het Orgelpark Gerard Brandtstraat 26 orgelpark.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Q Factory Atlantisplein 1 q-factory-amsterdam.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 carre.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 tolhuistuin.nl Thuishaven Contactweg 68 thuishaven.nl Undercurrent Papaverweg 265 undercurrent.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y ziggodome.nl

PART III ADVERTORIAL

I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD

S P EC I A L OFFER

Enjoy an unforget table performan ce at the Royal Co ncertgeb o uw 25% disco with a unt using yo I amsterd am City C ur ard

You’ll be surprised at how much of Amsterdam and the surrounding region you can see with your I amsterdam City Card.

REMBRANDT VAN RIJN, FLORA, 1634 © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

THE JUMP , 1978 © THE ESTATE OF JACK GOLDSTEIN

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card:

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE Until 27 May

This extraordinary exhibition brings to the Hermitage Amsterdam 63 works by Dutch Masters from the museum‘s collection in St Petersburg. Treasures from the Golden Age are (temporarily) coming home, including paintings by Rembrandt, Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck. €10 SURCHARGE with your I amsterdam City Card Please prebook a timeslot through the Hermitage museum’s website, hermitage.nl

STEDELIJK MUSEUM JUMP INTO THE FUTURE: ART FROM THE 90S & 00S Until 4 March

The exhibition is a journey through time.

Borgmann called his visits to the Stedelijk in the 1960s ‘an escape into the future’. The exhibition‘s title refers to the collector‘s early relationship with the Stedelijk Museum and to the activity of art collecting.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • A free canal cruise and more 24hrs €59 / 48hrs €74 / 72hrs €87 / 96hrs €98

The I amsterdam City Card is available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices.

For more information, see iamsterdam.com/citycard.

© GERARD VAN HONTHORST, SMILING GIRL, A COURTISANE, HOLDING AN OBSCENE IMAGE, 1625, OIL ON CANVAS, 46,9 X 60 CM, SAINT LOUIS ART MUSEUM, SAINT LOUIS

Get out of town

In Amsterdam

TSAR PETER HOUSE One of the oldest wooden houses in the Netherlands (1632), this modest labourer’s house is the one Tsar Peter the Great stayed in when he visited Zaandam in 1697. Travelling incognito, the Russian ruler was interested in learning about Dutch shipbuilding techniques in order to modernise his homeland. A beautiful dome was added to protect this small museum which features countless memories of the Tsar’s stay, as well as the visit of many other dignitaries who have written or carved their names in the windows and wooden walls.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

I AMSTERDAM MAPS & ROUTES DOWNLOAD THE FREE APP! The Amsterdam neighbourhoods app will help you expand your horizons and discover the neighbourhoods of Amsterdam.

Pick from 11 neighbourhood itineraries, enhanced by our suggestions of noteworthy locations and hotspots along the way.

You can download the I amsterdam Maps & Routes app from the App Store or the Google Play Store. iamsterdam.com

FRANS HALS MUSEUM THE ART OF LAUGHTER Until 18 March

A little known and unexpected treat, the Dutch Golden Age artists also produced their fair share of humorous paintings. Naughty children, foolish dandies and lazy maids abound in this special, delightful retrospective on the more light-hearted side of such eminent painters as Frans Hals or Jan Steen.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

The City The Beach The Hague.

Dive into The Hague.

And immerse yourself in everything the city at the sea has to offer.

Get inspired on denhaag.com/en/dive

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CLOSING VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

VISITOR INFORMATION

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance.

The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy.

Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10:00, and buy tickets at: lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM STORE A store for visitors and residents! With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer.

Open Mon-Wed: 08:00-19:00, Thu-Sat: 08:00-20:00, Sun: 09:00-18:00 iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store #iamsterdamstore

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com twitter.com/iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily, check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07:00-22:00

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 calendar days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam, and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

CLASS 2

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in r on every trip each carrie

YM A D 1 A D R MSTE

A

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

CHRISTMAS 1916 IN AMSTERDAM HOSPITAL Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Erik Schmitz

CHRISTMAS IN THE TB BARRACKS OF THE WILHELMINA GASTHUIS Beneath a sky of simple garlands that look like falling snowflakes, a group of nurses pose with studied glee around a Christmas tree. The rather bare interior betrays that this is an emergency barrack, built in 1914 at the start of the First World War, as an expansion to the nowclosed Wilhelmina Gasthuis to treat TB patients. Tuberculosis was a lung disease that was very hard to treat. A lengthy rest period was the only available cure, and the more fortunate patients could

find it in the Swiss mountains. These barracks, however, were populated by the less fortunate Amsterdammers from working-class areas such as the Jordaan.

They sometimes spent months in here.

And then as now, the visit of a photographer must have felt like a liberation from their monotonous existence: they were seen, they mattered. amsterdam.nl/stadsarchief

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BEYOND

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond amsterdam

‘I’VE BEEN MARRIED TWICE. MOST WOMEN WOULD RATHER NOT BE MARRIED TO A TRAVELLING BLUES SINGER.’ B.B. KING

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL ROTTERDAM

GUIDED TOUR JOPEN BREWERY

Twelve days, 2,000 film professionals, and hundreds of movies from 60 different countries: that’s the International Film Festival Rotterdam in a nutshell. For the 47th time, Rotterdam will turn into film heaven by offering a broad genre of feature films, documentaries, short films, exhibitions, performances and more, including exclusive premieres – and even special programmes for kids. After a few movies you get to enjoy drinks and snacks, while you ask some sharp questions to filmmakers and actors during Q&A sessions, and join in mind-blowing debates. End inspiring and entertaining nights by busting a move on the dance floor during the daily afterparties, and register for the grand finale closing party at the Grand Hall of De Doelen.

Jopen, founded in 1994 on the occasion of the 750th anniversary of Haarlem, was one of the first artisan city breweries in the Netherlands, and has since become a pilgrimage for beer aficionados. Every Saturday, there is a guided tour through the Jopenbrouwerij, where you see how the beer is brewed, barreled or bottled. Afterwards you can of course enjoy a drink in the Jopen Tasting Room.

24 JANUARY-4 FEBRUARY De Doelen & various locations in Rotterdam iffr.com

GETTING THERE: Take a train from Amsterdam Central to Rotterdam Central, then it’s a six-minute walk to Schouwburgplein.

Travel time: 75 minutes

EVERY SATURDAY Jopen Proeflokaal Waarderpolder Emrikweg 21, Haarlem jopenkerk.nl GETTING THERE: There are many trains to Haarlem from Amsterdam Central, after which you hop then hop on bus 15 to Waarderpolder.

Travel time: 30 minutes

NEW YEAR’S DIVE In the Netherlands, do as the Dutch do, however crazy it may seem: including jumping in the icy waters of the North Sea on New Year’s Day. Started in 1960, this tradition which today involves more than 40,000 people nationwide is a lot more than mass madness, since part of the proceeds go to charity. This year, a foodbank that benefits dozens of thousands of families living below the poverty line will be the recipient of €1 out of the dive’s €3 registration fee. Since 1998, Unox sponsors the event, so every participant receives a red Unox hat and a can of pea soup – the best way to warm up after throwing your body into the cold winter water at one of the many locations hosting a New Year Dive this year (see the map on the website), including Scheveningen which is the most popular, ‘official’ spot.

1 JANUARY Various locations unox.nl/nieuwjaarsduik

65 ‘ONLY THOSE WHO ATTEMPT THE ABSURD WILL ACHIEVE THE IMPOSSIBLE. I THINK IT’S IN MY BASEMENT… LET ME GO UPSTAIRS AND CHECK.’ M.C. ESCHER

‘THE PROBLEM WITH WINTER SPORTS IS THAT – FOLLOW ME CLOSELY HERE – THEY GENERALLY TAKE PLACE IN WINTER.’

© PEMMY LARMENE

DAVE BARRY

AFFLIGEM DELFT BLUES FESTIVAL CULTURAL CAPITAL OF 2018

PARAD-ICE If you’ve skated to your heart’s content around ICE* Amsterdam on Museumplein and want to give your blades a run for their money while enjoying breathtaking views and fresh nature, check out natuurijs.ekkel.com. The website has a map of all the spots where it’s safe to skate on ponds, lakes, canals and polders – just follow the green dots! It takes a cold winter for the ice to form and stay at safe levels: more than four days at subzero temperatures. But while Amsterdam’s canals may not get cold enough this year, most winters will bring a slew of these frosty days outside of the city and Natuurijs will tell you exactly where to go without risks of ending up as an ice cube. natuurijs.ekkel.com

Picked as the European Capital of Culture for 2018, Leeuwarden-Fryslân is celebrating by showing off its artistic (and also sustainable) chops. Year-round, visitors will be treated to exhibitions honouring famous Frisians such as M.C. Escher or Mata Hari at the Frisian Museum, but also local traditions with the Frisian Dance Days, or the region’s timeless crafts with an exhibit on Migrating Ceramics at the Ceramics Museum. During the opening weekend, all the Frisian museums open their doors, while music, dance and theatre performances bring the squares of Leeuwarden alive – and all the bells of the surrounding Frisian villages and towns start ringing at the same time.

OPENING WEEKEND: 26 AND 27 JANUARY Various locations in Leeuwarden-Fryslân 2018.nl

GETTING THERE: The fastest way to get to Leeuwarden is to hop on a train at Amsterdam Central to Almere Centrum, then change for another train to Leeuwarden.

Travel time: 127 minutes

It only makes sense that the city renowned for its blue ceramics would throw a blues music festival, this year in its 20th edition. With more than 70 performances representing all blues’ styles from Jump ’n’ Jive to Boogie Woogie, and including both acoustic and amplified music, the festival croons its way through 30+ different pubs across town. The three-day event also features films and tons of social opportunities such as a brunch, a late-night afterparty, and the infamous yearly Blues Quizz.

For a bit of extra fun, register for the harmonica workshop on 18 February – the fee includes a nice new instrument to take home to keep those lips limber.

16-18 FEBRUARY delftblues.nl

GETTING THERE: There are several direct trains to Delft from Amsterdam Central every hour.

Travel time: 1 hour

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ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

on the way out

PIPPA HANLEY, 32, STAY-AT-HOME MUM, WITH ISABELLE, 3, FROM ENGLAND ‘Have the giant meat platters at Gauchos!

Their steaks are delicious.’

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

ANDREA SAVELBERG, 46, YOUTH DOCTOR FROM LIMBURG ‘I love that the Schouwburg Theatre has English surtitles on Thursdays, it lets non-Dutch-speakers enjoy the fabulous productions that they put on.

Otherwise visitors would never get to experience Amsterdam's best stage.'

FILIPA CAPELA, 23, AND DIOGO SANTOS, 27, FROM PORTUGAL ‘Make the trip to Zaanse Schans, it’s lovely. Not just the historical windmills, but also the chocolate factory and cheese shop. We bought so much cheese!’

MADELINE LITTRELL, 29, WORKS IN DIGITAL MEDIA, FROM DALLAS (U.S.) ‘Since I started planning my visit, my friends kept telling me not to miss the Van Gogh Museum; and it’s truly as wonderful as they said, seeing those paintings up close, with the colours and textures. Beautiful. Go!’

RICHARD JORDAN, 36, FASHION DEVELOPMENT MANAGER FROM DUBLIN ‘Go shopping in the Nine Streets, it’s a fashion heaven. There are so many great independent designers, and brands we would never find at home.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Het Zomerpaleis: Saskia Franken, Martijn Blokland deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, George King, Ana V. Martins, Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock, Erik Schmitz, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Karl Baz, Rhys Elliott & Alex Hibbert), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Jose Luis Garcia advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions a-magservice@iamsterdam.com didn‘t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing

Discover your Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/neighbourhoods

Explore the world Take off and fly to 265 destinations worldwide. With KLM and its partners, you can explore your world – klm.com

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE l blem angu ro G ui

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EN d e t o LAN GLISH G THE UAGE ATR E m

SIGHTS & SOUNDS DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS JAN & FEB 2018

JAN & FEB 2018

language no problem — 18 January 14 February 2018 — The Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra — operaballet.nl

TRISTAN UND ISOLDE — Richard Wagner

GREAT DATES (THE ROMANCE ISSUE )

Vol 6 NO 1 €3.50