A-mag - Amsterdam Magazine: No.1 by amsterdam&partners

amsterdam magazine

Sights & Sounds Art & Fashion Dancing & Dining Film & Theatre jan & feb 2013

celebrating the city 2013 is a magic number for Amsterdam. This year the city will be celebrating a host of special milestones, including 400 years of canals, as well as the grand reopening of gems such as the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the redesigned Stedelijk and much more. Come and join the party!

no 1 â&#x201A;Ź2.95

LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM SHOWS JANUARY-MARCH 2013

CONNY JANSSEN DANST* 18 TILL 20 JANUARY

DIEGO EL CIGALA* 21 JANUARY

COME TOGETHER* 23 TILL 27 JANUARY

STANISLAVSKY OPERA: JEVGENI ONEGIN* 23 March t0 28 July 2013

Frans Hals

Eye to Eye with Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian

1 TILL 3 FEBRUARY

SOLOISTS STANISLAVSKY* 3 FEBRUARY

EL VIENTO WITH THE METROPOLE ORCHESTRA 9 MARCH

LUDOVICO EINAUDI 10 MARCH

MADREDEUS 11 MARCH

GOLDEN EARRING 12 MARCH

WAYLON 19 MARCH

MISS MONTREAL Groot Heiligland 62 Haarlem

��

* CARRÉ JUBILEE SHOW

WWW.CARRE.NL 0900 25 25 255 (€1,30 PER CALL) De appel arts centre shows

Tropenmuseum

con tempo rary art

A whole world of stories

Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen

25 MARCH

�

Amsterdam

Prins Hendrikkade 142 1011 aT amsTerdam www.deaPPel.nl

www.tropenmuseum.nl

Appel_adv_AMag01.indd 1

04-01-13 16:24

amsterdam magazine

n0 1 jan & feb 2013

great expectations Dear visitor, Every year you come to our city by the millions, travelling from all over the world to enjoy our unique atmosphere, our free spirit, our architecture and outstanding museums. We know this, because we asked you. And we are so proud. This year you have had all the more reason to come, and we have all the more reason to be proud, because 2013 will go down in history as one of Amsterdam’s finest years. It’s a year in which our world-class institutions the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra and Artis Royal Zoo, to name just two, happen to celebrate their anniversaries (125 and 175 years respec tively), and a year in which we (and you) reap the benefits from years of investing in our city. To name just a few, and disregarding the recent opening of the New Stedelijk Museum and the EYE Film Institute, this year will see the opening of the famous and stately Rijksmuseum as well the Van Gogh Museum. To guide you through all these festivities, we proudly present this brand new magazine. Leading you through everything this city has to offer day-by-day, it points out places that we Amsterdammers cherish and that we wouldn’t want you to miss out on. Enjoy 2013. Enjoy A-mag. Frans van der Avert director Amsterdam Marketing Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag.

Stay in touch: iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

contents P.04 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new initiatives, events and venues, featuring a galaxy of Michelin-starred restaurants, a permanent pop-up and Amsterdam’s androgynous model export

P.08 UP CLOSE The city in focus: an exploration of Amsterdam’s thriving coffee culture; plus our expat columnist on the quirky habits of Amsterdammers

P.17 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Celebrating a year of extraordinary milestones and anniversaries in 2013; our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events; a few of alderwoman Caroline Gehrels’ favourite things

P.29 EAT, DRINK & CHIC

renée louise anderson

Neighbourhood watch: bohemian rhapsody in De Pijp; the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends; and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés – old and new – to suit every budget and palate

P.62 CLOSING Amsterdam ABC: your city need-to-know; once upon a time in Amsterdam with John and Yoko; and top tips from visitors on their way out

p.45 the A-list Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery-hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues across the city.

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opening

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What’s new? (in town)

jan & feb 2013

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All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues starting Amsterdam,s 2013 with a bang.

‘SUNRISE IN AMSTERDAM. ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THINGS I’VE HAD THE PRIVILEGE OF SEEING.’ BRANT DAUGHERTY, THE STAR OF PRETTY LITTLE LIARS AND DAYS OF OUR LIVES, COMES OVER ALL EARNEST in this tweet from 6 DECEMBER 2012

text Toby Main

FLIGHT OF FANCY Wandering through the Vondelpark at this time of year, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re hallucinating when a flash of tropical green streaks through the skeletal winter trees. You’re not: since 1976, a riotously colourful flock of ring-necked parakeets has made Amsterdam its unlikely home. Believed to have descended from a pair of pet birds released into the wild some 35 years ago (which miraculously survived the harsh northern climes), they are now believed to number in excess of 2,000 within the city. In spite of initial fears that the feral flock would compete with native species for nesting holes, their ecological impact has been limited, and for the time being at least they continue to bring a touch of the Tropics to the Dutch capital.

BORING If everything goes to plan (and we’d be lying if we said this controversial project had been a breeze), February sees the final boring and excavation of the NoordZuid Line, the stretch of Amsterdam’s Metro network that will connect the two sides of the city separated by the IJ body of water. Noord, home to the EYE Film Institute, is fast becoming Amsterdam’s coolest district.

CLOTHES CALL Take a good look at the police uniforms you see around the streets of the capital, as they won’t be around for long. The current uniform, which has been criticised as being at once impractical for running and too casual to command authority, is being phased out in favour of a new version for 2014. Rumours of a militarystyle beret abound.

5 ‘SOME TOURISTS THINK AMSTERDAM IS A CITY OF SIN, BUT IN TRUTH IT IS A CITY OF FREEDOM. AND IN FREEDOM, MOST PEOPLE FIND SIN.’

‘MY EXPERIENCE IN AMSTERDAM IS THAT CYCLISTS RIDE WHERE THE HELL THEY LIKE AND AIM IN A STATE OF RAGE AT ALL PEDESTRIANS WHILE RINGING THEIR BELL LOUDLY, THE CONCEPT OF AVOIDING PEOPLE BEING FOREIGN TO THEM.’

JOHN GREEN, THE FAULT IN OUR STARS

TERRY PRATCHETT

SAIL OF THE CENTURY

A GALAXY OF STARS! In what can only be good news for gourmands, Amsterdam’s dining scene did exceptionally well out of last November’s allocation of new Michelin stars, those internationally-acknowledged baubles of culinary excellence. The tyre company’s 2013 guide dished out honours to Amsterdam restaurants including &Samhoud, the recently-opened waterfront home of Israeli chef Moshik Roth, and Bord’Eau, the modern French eatery in the city centre’s Hotel De L’Europe (pictured ). On the unprecedented number of Dutch wins, Michelin gushed: ‘This record confirms the vitality and quality of gourmet cooking in the Netherlands, led by very good chefs, most of whom are young and fully capable of reshaping the country’s fine dining scene.’ The country as a whole now has two restaurants with three stars, 18 with two and 81 with one. Eet smakelijk!

Come summertime, the city’s coolest kids will be buying their threads in a former shipping yard. That’s because the London-based Boxpark company has chosen Amsterdam-Noord’s NDSM former welding hangar as the second location for the ‘pop-up mall’ concept that originated in Shoreditch. Amsterdambased brands are being invited to pitch for units in the cavernous space. BOXPARK TT Neveritaweg 1-5 www.boxpark.nl

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WORD UP Want to sound like you’re down with the kids during your stay in Amsterdam? You could do a lot worse than dropping the expression ‘Project X-feest’ into your conversation. That’s if an online poll designed to find 2012’s ‘word of the year’ can be believed. Meaning a party organised via social media that gets out of hand, a notable example happened last year in the suburb of Groningen.

ABOUT FACE By the time you read this, it’s likely that her face will have disappeared back to nature, but that’s part of the point of this poignant sculpture unveiled in mid-December on the Zeeburgereiland in Amsterdam. Covering an area approximate to two football pitches, the image (only visible from the air) was commissioned by the human rights organisation Mama Cash for their Vogelvrije Vrouwen campaign, which draws attention to the plight of fellow activists in Mexico, Honduras and Guatemala, where it is estimated that 25 women have been murdered in the past two years because of their whistle-blowing. The ‘earth portrait’ – the largest the Netherlands has ever seen – was masterminded by Cuban-American artist Jorge Rodriguez-Gerada and took 80 volunteers five days to complete.  www.mamacash.nl

jan & feb 2013

opening What’s new?

   ‘TOTAL BLISS! WRITING ONE OF THE FINAL [new book] MADDADDAM CHapterS IN LOVELY WRITERFRIENDLY AMBASSADE HOTEL IN AMSTERDAM WHILE IT SNOWS+ SLEETS!’

LEGENDARY AUTHOR MARGARET ATWOOD tweets about SOAKing UP INSPIRATION IN HER CANAL-SIDE SUITE, 3 DECEMBER 2012

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’OH AMSTERDAM! I WAS a HOT EMOTIONAL MESS TONIGHT BUT WEREN’T MY BOYS AMAZING?!?! YOU HOWEVER WERE OFF THE CHARTS!‘

SHIRLEY MANSON of garbage tweets SENTIMENTAL RUBBISH, 20 NOVEMBER 2012

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HOME COMFORTS With sub-sections boasting titles such as ‘Home Sweet Home’ and ‘Shop Till You Drop’, it’s understandable that Amsterdam’s massive female-focused ‘Huishoudbeurs’ (‘Household Fair’), which happens annually at the RAI convention centre, has drawn criticism for its somewhat traditional approach to womanhood and the division of domestic labour. Still, this nine-day extravaganza of fashion and cleaning products must be doing something right; last year it drew more than 25,000 visitors to the Rivierenbuurt. The fair, which began in the 1950s and claims to have introduced the electric dishwasher to the Dutch market in 1962, is trying to move with the times, however. This year’s version incorporates the Women Inc. festival, which focuses on empowerment via cabaret, theatre and music. HUISHOUDBEURS 16-24 February Amsterdam RAI www.houshuidbeurs.nl

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SHE’S THE MAN A year ago, Amsterdambased retailer HEMA stirred up international debate when it used flat-chested but effeminate male model Andrej Pejic to advertise its range of push-up bras. Now, Amsterdam-born supermodel Saskia de Brauw is the face of the new Saint Laurent Paris brand of menswear. The campaign comes after she took a break from fashion, during which she studied art at the Rietveld Academie.

FISH TALE It’s part of the hotel where Dutch royal weddings happen, so you’d expect classy things from Bridges, the fish restaurant beneath the city’s Sofitel Legend The Grand. Still, the restaurant has (ahem) scaled new heights with its latest hires: star chef Ron Blaauw is going to be working in a consultant role as his young protégé Joris Bijdendijk takes to the helm. BRIDGES Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 www.bridgesrestaurant.nl

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’AMSTERDAM! IT HAS BEEN FAR TOO LONG! SO EXCITED FOR THE SHOW TONIGHT. IN THE MEANTIME ENJOYING YOUR BEAUTIFUL CITY XXX‘

SINGER kate nash ALSO tweeted about AMSTERDAM’S AUTOMATED FEBO SNACK STANDS, featuring the famed dutch croquette, 10 NOVEMBER 2012

A TOUCH OF GLASS

THREADY, STEADY, GO! Suspended five metres above the ground, The Van Gogh Mile is marked by a red thread leading from the work-in-progress Van Gogh Museum to the Hermitage Amsterdam, where the artist’s best-loved works have been rehoused during the renovation of the institution that bears his name. The route, which makes for a pleasant (if bracing) walk at this time of year, has been designed by artist Henk Schut, and a smartphone app of the same name provides commentary along the way. Vincent himself wasn’t shy of a stroll, having written the following in January 1874: ‘Always continue walking a lot and loving nature, for that’s the real way to learn to understand art better and better. Painters understand nature and love it, and teach us to see.’ VAN GOGH MILE APP Free at App Store or Google Play www.vangoghmuseum.nl

Amsterdam’s momentous 2013 year got off to a suitably celebratory start with these wondrous window tributes from the city’s number one department store, De Bijenkorf. Incorporating everything from a tank full of actual canal water (to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Canal Belt) to a host of golden sunflowers celebrating 40 years of the Van Gogh Museum, these eye-catching tableaux certainly brightened up January and gave a taste of all the landmark fun to come. DE BIJENKORF Dam 1 www.debijenkorf.nl

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HIGH LIGHT The second edition of ‘Lichtkunst in de Borneohof’, an art installation in eastern Amsterdam’s bustling Javaplein square, is bringing a touch of luxury to the tallest tower block in the district. Entitled LUX, the work by Paul Baartmans is a wind-activated lightshow that’s supposed to give the impression of a resident taking a Jacuzzi bath on the roof. It will be on display for three months.  www.polderlicht.com

ARE YOU EXPERIENCED? It used to be the canteen for the employees of the C&A department store on one of the city’s main shopping streets. Now, two floors of the property at Damrak 70 have found a new – if temporary – lease of life as DEC 70 (that’s Damrak Experience Centre), a not-for-profit cooperative set up to make good use of the property before its demolition. Running the gamut of arty antics, DEC 70 is open to everyone and promises weekly after-work yoga sessions, Vintage Polaroid Workshops and a glut of gourmet events from the folks behind Salotto Rosso, the successful Italianinflected pop-up party. The whole thing is co-organised by Shot By Models, Amsterdam’s team of very good-looking party photographers, so expect a healthy dose of glamour. DEC 70 Damrak 70 www.dec70.com

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part I up close

full of beans

Something’s brewing in the city’s coffee scene. DE KOFFIE SALON A coffee house for urban sophisticates, with its dark brown wooden interiors and large tables scattered with newspapers. The ‘vision’ here is simple: Italian-style coffee without the fuss. The Utrechtsestraat branch is particularly popular with those needing a caffeine boost after ambling the street’s fashion boutiques and speciality food retailers.

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Utrechtsestraat 130 Canal Belt; Eerste Constantijn West; Huygensstraat 82 Eerste van der Helststraat 66 De Pijp, www.dekoffiesalon.nl

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With bespoke blends and master baristas, Amsterdam’s coffee culture is really perking up. text Matt Farquharson illustration Leendert Masselink

SPILLING THE BEANS

n 1616, in the port of Mocha, Yemen, at the southern tip of the Red Sea, Dutch merchant Pieter van den Broecke sat down for a refreshing drink after a hard morning of trading for the Dutch East India Company. The locals served up ‘something hot and black’, and the perky brew had such an invigorating effect that he decided to make off with the plants and beans that created it ‒ much to the annoyance of his hosts, who had banned the export of this precious commodity. The results made it all the way back to Amsterdam’s botanical gardens and on to Dutch colonies in Java, Sumatra, Central and South America, and slowly began the Western world’s twitching fancy for the mighty coffee bean. Talk about spreading your seed. Van den Broecke’s enthusiasm for coffee soon caught on among the Dutch elite (a kilo of beans cost the equivalent of €300 at the end of the 17th century), and eventually petered down to your average Joe (which, coincidentally, derives from the common Dutch name Joost). He has been unable to start a day’s work without one since.

HOME BREW Coffee is now so ingrained in Dutch culture that it’s the first thing to be offered when a guest visits and must be supped at the beginning of the working day ‒ whether on a building site or at a merchant bank. The Dutch are the fifth most avid consumers of coffee on Earth, according to the World Resources Institute, putting away 8.5kgs of the stuff per person every year (they’re only beaten in coffee quaffing terms by the Scandinavians of Finland, Denmark, Norway and Iceland). But until recently, that coffee culture didn’t extend to the city streets. ‘Whereas in other countries it’s about going outside to get a coffee, in Holland there’s a really indoor coffee culture,’ reckons Aleks Pietrzykowska, a Polish-Dutch barista. ‘In Italy, you’d go outside and get an espresso and read the paper and it’s really a break. Here everything is in the office or in the house.’ In Amsterdam, that has meant coffee was something that could be found everywhere – in bars, cafés and restaurants – but not in dedicated coffee shops. And the selection has

part I up close

full of beans

SEEING A MIRAGE

STARBUCKS, THE BANK The giant coffee corporation has stuck a large flag in the ground with this flagship store. The site pays homage to the Dutch influence on the world of coffee, with Delft Blue decorative flourishes and wall decorations made from moulds for spiced speculaas coffee biscuits. This is where new and experimental roasts are test-marketed. Expect bucket-sized servings. Citywide, and Utrechtsestraat 9 Centrum, www.starbucks.nl

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The sultry curves and shimmering chrome might at first look like old car parts. The styling certainly conjures up images of 1950s American sports cars (which is helped by names such as Mirage, Spirit and Speedster). But these espresso makers are in fact the work of Dutch designer Kees van der Westen, whose creations can be seen all over Amsterdam. When he began, in the early 1990s, Van der Westen recalls: ‘All the espresso machines looked like boxes. They were all made by Italians, which I thought was strange. Italians are known for their flair, so it didn’t really match up.’ To put this right, he made his own, which can now be found from the Czech Republic to Australia. http://keesvanderwesten.com

ESPRESSOFABRIEK Just two outlets so far, but parked in the rapidly gentrifying neighbourhoods of Spaarndammerbuurt out west and IJburg to the east, the locations set the tone here. Both spots get a mix of young families and twenty-somethings, and serve alcohol later in the day. The western outlet, on Westergasfabriek, has a large and welcoming terrace.

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Gosschalklaan 7 Spaarndammerbuurt; IJburglaan IJburg, www.espressofabriek.nl 1489

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CALLED TO THE BAR Nicole Lieuw, Two for Joy on Frederiksplein

‘I’ve been a barista for a year and a couple of weeks. I knew I wanted to work with coffee. I wanted to learn it and it was really fun!”

been pretty straightforward: short, black and served with a coffee biscuit, or perhaps as a koffie verkeerd (latte), with almost no choice of beans. FULL STEAM AHEAD But things have changed in the last five years, as new coffee shops have opened up, and even the big green coffee machine that is Starbucks has made its presence felt, basing its European headquarters at Amsterdam’s Westelijk Havengebied, the firm’s only roasting facility outside of the US. ‘It’s true the Dutch have a long history of drinking coffee, so they have a strong coffee culture,’ says Starbucks’s spokesperson Hans van Bochove, ‘but then again if you look, the current coffee-drinking trend in the Netherlands is still very much a filter-coffee culture – so drinking coffee at home, at best at work – so the “to go” coffee culture is still in its infancy.’ But there’s been something of a boom of late, reckons Richard Jenkins, the Californian

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 

thirty-something manager of the Utrechtsestraat branch of De Koffie Salon – in both the number and variety of specialist coffee shops in the city. ‘Every week, in the last two years, there’s a new coffee place opening. There’s so many coffee trends involving different methods now. Filter coffees have become very popular, as are places that use the Aeropress, which focuses on pressure like espresso machines. Espresso is much thicker than filter coffee is because the pressure is extracting the oil from the beans. We don’t have an Aeropress – we specifically make coffee the same way it was done when espresso machines were invented in the ’40s, in the ’50s, in Italy,’ he continues. ‘We inspire ourselves from that Italian tradition, making it new in Amsterdam.’ The swathe of indie coffee shops are leading the charge, from Coffee Company, Amsterdam’s home-grown answer to Starbucks, to Two for Joy tweeting followers about the latest arrival of beans. Pieter van den Broecke would have been proud.

A kilo of coffee beans cost the equivalent of €300 at the end of the 17th century.

veronic leter De Koffie Salon on Utrechtsestraat

‘In Australia they like to put liquors in coffee. I think it would be great if they did more of that here in Amsterdam, especially since people are always looking for new trends.’

Richard jenkins De Koffie Salon on Utrechtsestraat

‘Barista can be a profession now, not just a job… Coffee is a craft for us.’

part I

full of beans

up close

As cosy as a cuddle from a bosom-heavy grandma.

 

(Two for Joy)

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DE BAKKERSWINKEL As much a tea shop and bakery as a coffee emporium, De Bakkerswinkel churns out all manner of artisanal breads, buns and baked brilliance. Their English high teas and Dutch breakfasts are doughy delights of homemade jams and breads, and the coffee’s not bad either.

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Zeedijk 37 Centrum; Zuid; Roelof Hartstraat 68 Polonceaukade 1 Spaarndammerbuurt, www.debakkerswinkel.nl

COFFEE COMPANY

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The Netherlands’s homegrown answer to Starbucks, Coffee Company has the big chain mentality – slick marketing and ‘brand extensions’ including workshops and a book award – but has managed to retain a genuine personal touch in its service, despite having been bought out by coffee behemoth Douwe Egberts. When it opened back in 1996, the communal tables – made of railway sleepers – were revolutionary, forcing caffeine junkies to rub shoulders with their neighbours. Citywide, www.coffeecompany.nl

TWO FOR JOY

LATEI

As cosy as a cuddle from a bosom-heavy grandma, Two for Joy’s dinky tables and tight layout (at both outlets) make mingling inevitable. It makes for a friendly vibe, as do the staff, and they roast their own blends all week long. Comfy sofas and a laid-back atmosphere make this more a spot for lingering than most in the city.

A coffee shop worth a visit for more than just its coffee, Latei houses a bonkers collection of trinkets and bric-a-brac, much of which is for sale, all jumbled into a tight space in the middle of the Red Light District. Have a carrot cake or a veggie curry with your caffeine fix and sample the quirky vibe away from the tourist bedlam outside.

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Frederiksplein 29 Canal Belt; West, Haarlemmerdijk 182 www.twoforjoy.nl

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Zeedijk 143 www.latei.net

part I

up close

When in Amsterdam…

Eliane gerrits

After 16 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

MONEY MATTERS

M Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

aybe it’s me, but I’ve been publically ejected and loud-speakered out of my second tram in a month now. The most recent experience was a freezing Amsterdam night, when the conductor had no trouble ejecting my young daughters, too. I realise that things could have been worse: I was spared the humiliation of being thrown off the Santa Tram with its floppy fur-lined hat dangling from the roof and cheerful Christmas melodies blaring from its speakers. But you have to wonder why the tram operators at GVB bother with the festive trimmings when they seem to hire their personnel right out of Ebenezer Scrooge. GREY AREA I committed the same offense on both occasions: out of small change and having misplaced our tram cards, I tried to buy tickets with a €50 note. But the ticket collector was having none of it. ‘The next stop is yours,’ she icily informed me. My girls, following my instructions for once, had scrambled inside the tram and I was having trouble locating them. But the ticket collector took care of that, making the most of her PA system. ‘Girls, follow your mother off the tram. Now.’ Like a lot of things in the Netherlands – most notably its soft drugs policy – tram

riding seems to exist in a grey area. I have never seen a sign in a tram informing the public that fifties are not accepted. But a very patient GVB spokeswoman explained the obvious to me: a lack of small change and security concerns about carrying too much of it make it untenable to accept fifties from passengers. GO DUTCH, CYCLE So while ‘we have policies’ and the conductor has the right to evict you, she told me, ‘some situations will ask for flexible solutions’. The only thing flexible about our solution was how I managed a backward pike off the tram with three bags of groceries and two little girls hanging from my arms. But do take heart: tram conductors will break twenties. And you can always try your hand at negotiation, not an impossible task in this rule-loving country. Just knowing that there is a grey area in tram policy is encouraging enough to make you want to try. And more often than not I’ve been able to catch a break from a ticket collector who either pitied me or had a soft spot for my two little Dutch-speaking girls with the American accents. And if all else fails, go Dutch – and cycle your way through the city, no tickets necessary.

Advertorial

I amsterdam City Card

jan & feb 2013

Experience museums inside 17th-century canal houses, with the I amsterdam C ity Card.

MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES 

MUSEUM ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER 

One of the eight leading fashion museums in the world and the only museum with such an extensive, specialised collection of bags and purses, the Museum of Bags and Purses (Tassenmuseum Hendrikje) takes visitors on a tour of the development of bags and purses from the 16th century to the present. The collection provides a fascinating survey of function, design, fabric and decoration in purse fashion through the ages. Built in 1664, the historic museum building boasts an impressive antique interior, too.

One of Amsterdam’s most unexpected museums, at first glance, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder looks like a typical 17th-century canal house, but there’s a historical church hidden behind the classical facade. This clandestine church in the attic dates back to the time when Catholics were not permitted to openly practice their faith during the Reformation. The building is now a museum where you can admire grand chambers and exhibitions in addition to the hidden church.

Free admission with the I amsterdam City Card

(OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC)

Free admission with the I amsterdam City Card

MUSEUM VAN LOON  A visit to Museum Van Loon is like stepping back through time into Amsterdam’s sumptuous Golden Age. Among the most powerful of Amsterdam’s 17thcentury dynasties, the Van Loons belonged to the city’s governing class and were some of the founders of the mighty VOC – the Dutch East India Company – back in 1602. With much of its original interior intact, this is like a museum within a musuem. The permanent collection comprises paintings, antique furnishings and cultural objects. Get ready to ooh and ahh! Free admission with the I amsterdam City Card

Highlights with your I amsterdam City Card:

special exhibitions in January and February

Vincent: The Van Gogh Museum in the Hermitage Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM 

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM 

Using cutting-edge new media alongside world-class historic pieces – and of course Old Master paintings – the Amsterdam Museum delves into the Dutch Golden Age like never before.

The Hermitage Amsterdam presents its latest ground-breaking exhibition featuring a huge selection of world-famous Impressionist paintings drawn from the vast collection of the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg.

The Golden Age – Gateway to Our World

Until 31 August 2013. Free admission with the I amsterdam City Card

Impressionism – Sensation & Inspiration

Until 27 January 2013

The Hermitage Amsterdam serves as the temporary home to an extensive collection of Van Gogh’s most famous works during the renovation of the Van Gogh Museum, offering the opportunity to discover the works of Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) in an entirely new context.

Until 25 April 2013. I amsterdam City Card holders can visit both these exhibitions for a €2.50 surcharge (regular entrance price: €17.50)

15    

Stroll through Amsterdam’s Canal District and discover the city’s hidden gems. Elegant canalside mansions house some of the city’s most fascinating museums, with collections ranging from stately artefacts to quirky cutting-edge art.

HET GRACHTENHUIS 

WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM 

The recently-opened Grachtenhuis is a great place to start exploring Amsterdam’s hidden museums. A tribute to and celebration of the historic Canal District – whose majestic waterways turn 400 years old in 2013 – the museum uses multimedia exhibitions to show how the now grand neighbourhood is in fact an engineering marvel built on swamp land. From here, you can easily explore other canal-house museums, and Het Grachtenhuis is even equipped to help plan your itinerary.

Soak up the authentic 19th-century atmosphere at the Willet-Holthuysen Museum and find out what life was like in Amsterdam for both wealthy and ordinary members of society. Built in 1687, the house and its fine collection of art and furnishings were bequeathed to the city of Amsterdam by its last resident, Louisa Willet-Holthuysen. The mansion is beautifully preserved and highlights include the magnificent Blue Room, ornamental gardens and servants’ quarters. The museum also offers a collection of historic paintings and luxurious antiques.

(HOUSE OF THE CANALS)

Free admission with the I amsterdam City Card

Explore everything Amsterdam has to offer with the I amsterdam City Card. Visit world-class museums, take a cruise through the charming canals and sample the local delicacies – all for free or with a significant discount.

DE NIEUWE KERK 

The American Indian: Art and Culture Between Myth and Reality

Exploration of the artistic traditions of Native Americans, with fascinating cultural artefacts from all over the continent.

Until 14 April 2013. I amsterdam City Card holders can visit this exhibition for a €3.50 surcharge regular entrance price: €15)

• Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport • Free canal cruise • 25 per cent discount on attractions • 25 per cent discount on food & drink …and more I amsterdam City Card for 24 hours – €42 I amsterdam City Card for 48 hours – €52 I amsterdam City Card for 72 hours – €62

The I amsterdam City Card is available at Amsterdam Tourist Offices, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see www. iamsterdamcitycard. com

HELL

Mon 18 february after the rehearsal / persona the taming of the shrew angels in america children of the sun a dollâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house the russians! disgrace all my sons husbands the seagull

eXtraordinary plays with english surtitles

on thursdays at stadsschouwburg amsterdam

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choreography: emio greco | pc

YOU PARA | DISO Tue 19 february choreography: emio greco | pc

Vincent

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Find us temporarily at Hermitage Amsterdam 29.09.2012_25.04.2013

STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM WWW.SSBA.NL BOX OFFICE T 020 624 23 11

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Enjoy the reduced rate if you visit both performances.

jan & feb 2013

part II 18 20 25 26

entertainment

‘If Silicon Valley had existed in the 17th century, it would have been right in the middle of Dam square.’ Kees Zandvliet, curator of The Golden Age exhibition, Amsterdam Museum

‘I want to put an end to this wellknown myth: they say Amsterdam is built on wooden poles. It’s not. It’s floating on art and culture.’

Ho-Yeol Ryu, ‘Flughafen Hannover’, 2009

Carolien Gehrels, alderwoman and deputy mayor of Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM 2013 HIGHLIGHTS 13 QUESTIONS FILM

IMAGINED PLACES Amsterdam’s ‘Museum of the Tropics’ is dedicated to explaining the ‘other’ – other cultures, other places, other people. Exploring the relationship between geography and identity, in Imagined Places artists with first-hand knowledge of the desire to be elsewhere and the reality of forced migration present photographs and installations depicting real and imaginary places, forced and unforced journeys. Until 14 April TROPENMUSEUM Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.com

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Amsterdam 2013

This is a year of extraordinary milestones for Amsterdam. Over an eventful 12 months, the city will celebrate several important anniversaries ‒ and you’re all invited to the party. text Megan Roberts illustration Chantal van Wessen / Het Parool

Jubilee Year Official anniversary Unofficial anniversary

150 years since the abolition of slavery

90 years of science museum NEMO

125 years of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra

36 years of the Amsterdam Metro

125 years of the Concertgebouw

17 years of Gay Pride

125 years of the Royal Theater Carré

1 year of the EYE Film Institute

124 years of Central Station

400 years of the Amsterdam canals

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20 150 years of Heineken

28 years of the classic Damto-Dam run 53 years of the Anne Frank Huis

45 years of the IJ Tunnel 57 years of the Dam square memorial

110 years of the Beurs van Berlage 3 years of the world-class sculpture exhibition Art Zuid

msterdam has always cast a spell on travellers, but in 2013 ten iconic anniversaries coincide, marked by a year of celebrations. The famed Canal Ring – which has not only shaped the geography and growth of the city over the centuries, but also the liberal outlook of its people – turns 400 years old, just three years after it was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site in its entirety. It’s Vincent van Gogh’s 160th birthday, and the 40th of the colourful mu-

25 years of Toneelgroep Amsterdam 17 years of Amsterdam Arena

seum that bears his name and a large portion of his artistic output. Just across Museumplein, the Rijksmuseum reopens after a tenyear renovation, displaying the artistic highlights of the Dutch Golden Age once again – including Rembrandt’s iconic Night Watch and Vermeer’s luminous Milkmaid. In nearby Haarlem, the Frans Hals Museum celebrates its centenary with a jubilee exhibition of 50 works by the eponymous artist, plus paintings by his peers.

20 editions of Amsterdam Fashion Week

87 years of HEMA, the quintessential Dutch department store

The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – voted the world’s finest in 2009 – blows out 125 candles (as does its home base) and goes on a celebratory world tour. But Amsterdammers won’t miss out: a number of performances will be beamed to the city’s squares and parks for free. For its 175th year, Artis Royal Zoo will be more colourful than ever, with hundreds of bulbs and blooms planted especially for the occasion. Cultural centre Felix Meritis turns 225, opening its unique observa-

o chernous

abraham rademaker

24H: Conservatorium Hotel

26 years of International Documentary Filmfestival, IDFA

Football legend Johan Cruijff turns 65

375 years of Hortus Botanicus

The Stanislavsky Opera

Russian Year: 400 years of Dutch-Russian relations

Exhibition Booming Amsterdam

528 years of the oldest house in Amsterdam 375 years of the landmark church steeple, Westertoren

175 years of Artis Royal Zoo

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join the party 24-HOUR PARTY PEOPLE Showcasing all that Amsterdam has to offer over a 24-hour period, the first of four editions of 24H focuses on the city centre, the heart of Amsterdam. The area’s theatres, museums, clubs, hotels and institutions – some of which are ordinarily closed to the public – fling their doors open with events and celebrations. Simultaneously, the inaugural Amsterdam Hotel Night sees 45 hostelries across the city – budget to boutique – offering bargain rates (€55 for basic rooms; €120 for five-star extravagance) and a programme of cultural, creative and culinary side events aimed at locals and visitors alike. 12-13 January, www.iamsterdam.com/ www.amsterdamsehotelnacht.nl

THE RUSSIAN CONNECTION

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12 years of FOAM Photography Museum 160 years since Vincent van Gogh’s birth; 40 years of the museum bearing his name

66 editions of performing arts festival Holland Festival

tory to the public once again. But more than just the bricks, mortar and picturesque waterways that the city is famous for, Amsterdam is defined by the internationally minded artists, scientists, thinkers, innovators and entrepreneurs who have lived and visited here, each leaving their mark. It seems fitting, then, that two iconic human themes will also influence the jubilee celebrations: 150 years since the abolition of slavery and 400 years of trade between Amsterdam and Russia.

The reopening of the Rijksmuseum

join the party A year of memorable events include art exhibitions (featuring Old Masters to rising stars), diverse concerts from classical to rock, performed in concert halls and city parks alike, processions (including spectacular floral tributes through the city) and international sporting events, both in traditional arenas and on the city’s streets and canals. From its spectacular launch on 12 January to the blaze of fireworks that bring the

19 years of Amsterdam's highest (office) building, Rembrandt-toren 225 years of Enlightenment in the Felix Meritis cultural centre

jubilee celebrations to a close on 1 January 2014, Amsterdam 2013 will be a celebration for all – young or old, entrepreneur or artist, citizen or visitor. Be it dancing the night away in a metro tunnel, seeing the city through the eyes of a visitor by staying in a luxury hotel or simply experiencing Amsterdam in a new light, 2013’s activities are set to leave a long-lasting impression, shaping the traditions that will influence Amsterdam for the coming 400 years.

Amsterdam’s majestic Royal Theater Carré was built in 1887 as an equestrian circus and is now established as a stable for thoroughbred talent. To celebrate – and to mark 400 years of trade between Amsterdam and Russia – Moscow’s critically-acclaimed Stanislavsky Opera performs Tchaikovsky’s three-act lyric opera, Eugene Onegin. Based on Alexander Pushkin’s verse novel and set in 1820s northern Russia, Eugene Onegin tells the story of a handsome rake whose life of debauchery leads to a deadly duel and the destruction of his one chance for true love. 1-3 February, www.carre.nl

REVISIT THE GOLDEN AGE Revisiting the most famous period in Dutch history, Amsterdam City Archives uses original maps and artefacts to record the story of Amsterdam’s unprecedented expansion between 1600 and 1700 for the exhibition Booming Amsterdam. Rare prints and architectural drawings by such famous architects as Hendrick de Keyser and Philip Vingboons show how successful merchants embraced the newly constructed Canal Ring, commissioning ornate waterside properties to flaunt their new-found wealth. 15 February-26 May, http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Back to the future

Think that Golden Age Holland is a thing of the past? Think again, as the Amsterdam Museum’s new exhibition revisits this city’s defining era. text Toby Main

hink of the Dutch Golden Age and what comes to mind? Stately waterways? Giant merchants’ houses? Incredible scientific advances? Or a poor girl tied to a polder, her eyes being pecked out by birds? A new exhibition at the Amsterdam Museum explores both the enlightenment and the darkness of an era whose legacy continues to define the city even today. Depicted in one of the incredible hauls of 17th-century artistic treasures assembled for this exhibition, the Danish girl is ‘Poor Elsje Christiaens’, a housemaid who came to Amsterdam to try her luck in a city where the streets, it was rumoured, were paved with gold. Or at least silver: in 1600, the Dutch Republic had the highest amount of silversmiths in Europe with no fewer than 400 living in the boomtown of Amsterdam. Elsje wanted a piece of the economic action, but when an argument with her landlady over unpaid rent turned violent, her fate was sealed. Strung up on the far side of the IJ as an example to other potentially unruly immigrants, she was immortalised by one Rembrandt van Rijn, who rowed across the waters to sketch her. SILICON CANALS Elsewhere in the exhibition, a Golden Age ‘Facebook wall’ demonstrates how other individuals and families successfully navigated the climb that constituted 17th-

Detail of Melchior d’Hondecoeter’s, Vogels bij een balustrade met in de achtergrond het Stadhuis (1651-1695). The 17th-century animalier painter (c.1639-1695) was famed for his pictures of birds, from the domestic to the tropical. Hendrik Kerstens, Napkin (2009). Kerstens (Den Haag, 1956) has been photographing his daughter Paula since 1995, demonstrating his preoccupation with the Old Masters and creating a humorous dialogue between past and present.

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century social advancement. ‘Everyone was nouveau riche at that time,’ says curator Kees Zandvliet, who remarks that ‘if Silicon Valley had existed in the 17th century, it would have been right in the middle of Dam square’. Scientific advancement accompanied personal enrichment, and the exhibition suggests that the lens was perhaps the most important instrument of the Golden Age. Alongside embryos and even a human nose preserved in aspic is an early microscope, as produced by lens grinder and scientist Antonie van Leeuwenhoek. He was the first to see individual sperm and marvelled at the discovery of bacteria, blood cells and tiny life forms swimming around in a drop of water. The exhibition goes on to explain how these discoveries impacted contemporary Dutch belief systems. From a modern point of view, it was a society with many inequalities; from the perspective of the day, it was free-thinking and diverse. ‘We create histories in our own image,’ says Zandvliet of the final exhibit, which includes posters from modern Golden Age-inspired movies such as Girl With a Pearl Earring. ‘Nowadays our preoccupations are love and sex, which is why we quite often reinterpret the Golden Age in a romantic way.’ No such charge could be levelled at this exhibition, which makes room for lashings of gore and intrigue amid the gentility and glitter.

The Golden Age, until 31 August, Amsterdam Museum, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 359 www.amsterdammuseum.nl

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You may be familiar with the title of Tony Kushner’s Pulitzer Prize-winning play because of the dazzling miniseries it spawned, which starred Meryl Streep and Al Pacino. Set in New York before the development of the combination therapy that represented a giant leap forward in the treatment of HIV, the play is a mosaic of stories about people struggling with love and sexuality in the shadow of a disease that threatens to engulf everybody. This Dutch-language version is a staple of Toneelgroep Amsterdam’s winter programming. It’s presented with English subtitles for two performances in February.

jan versweyveld

ANGELS IN AMERICA

21 & 28 FEBRUARY, STADSSCHOUWBURG Leidseplein 26 www.ssba.nl

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VINCENT AT THE HERMITAGE They say a change is as good as a rest, and that’s certainly the case for the most famous of 19th-century artists associated with Amsterdam, Vincent van Gogh. An edited collection of his work, including all the iconic favourites such as Sunflowers, has found its temporary home at the Hermitage Amsterdam during the renovation of the institution that bears the great man’s name. The relocation offers the opportunity to rediscover the works in an entirely new context, with coloured backgrounds and thematic arrangements posing questions about the artist’s inspirations and development.

UNTIL 25 APRIL, HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl

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GOSPEL FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Like a visitor from another planet, the glamorous Spiegeltent (mirrored tent) touches down every winter in the south-east of the city, near the Bijlmer ArenA metro station. It’s usually home to the circus dinner show Palazzo, but on 21 February the acrobatics and slapstick make way for uplifting soul and gospel music as the eighth edition of the annual Gospel Festival Amsterdam takes over. Talented performers include Surinamese-born songstress Sabrina Starke (pictured) and Dutch collective Adlicious, who found success in the fourth season of the X-Factor.

21 FEBRUARY, SPIEGELTENT ArenA Boulevard www.gospelfestival.nl

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part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Live to Tell

The Dutch National Opera’s reworking of Rossini’s Guillaume Tell brings the opera out of the shadows of its overture.

ierre Audi, artistic director of both the Dutch National Opera and the spectacular annual celebration of theatre the Holland Festival, may be French-Lebanese by birth but his directness when discussing the DNO’s latest project is exquisitely Dutch in character. It is a rare revival of Italian composer Rossini’s Guillaume Tell – performed in the original French. ‘The opera is a great challenge for a director because the theme of Switzerland is in itself a boring theme. Switzerland is a boring country,’ he says blithely. Still, don’t be put off by this somewhat undiplomatic revelation; there’s plenty to entertain in this

lavish new production of the four-act work, which is most famous for its frenzied, pneumatic overture as featured in the soundtrack to the film of A Clockwork Orange – and, of course, for its scene in which the titular folk hero must shoot an apple from the head of his son in order to save his life. Rossini’s opera was itself adapted from the play by Friedrich Schiller, and according to DNO dramatist Klaus Bertisch, it’s probably a legend: ‘Nobody knows whether [Tell] really existed.’ Bertisch adds that staging the work can be problematic because ‘the cast list requires good singers, especially high tenors. The role of the

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chorus is very important. The Choir of the Netherlands Opera [collaborating with the Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra here] is special and that’s why we think it’s the right moment’. As German poet Heinrich Heine put it: ‘It is on the waves of Rossini’s music that the distinctive joys and sorrows of individual man are rocked most gently: love and hatred, tenderness and longing, jealousy and poutings.’ Sounds anything but boring to us.

28 JANUARY-18 FEBRUARY, HET MUZIEKTHEATER Waterlooplein 22 www.het-muziektheater.nl

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don’t miss these

‘When I was two years old my sister was already playing the violin. Of course I wanted to play a bigger instrument, so I started with the cello.’

CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA HOMECOMING Latvian conductor Mariss Jansons has been showered with international honours for his achievements, including the Order of Merit from King Harald of Norway and membership of the Royal Academy of Music in London. He became resident conductor of Royal Concertgebow Orchestra back in 2002, and is currently leading the RCO on a world tour to celebrate its 125th anniversary. During the last week of January, however, Jansons and company are back in Amsterdam for a series of very special ‘homecoming’ concerts, performing favourite works by Strauss and Mahler.

marco borggreve

featured artist

23-25 JANUARY, CONCERTGEBOUW Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl

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Prepare to celebrate the rock of (several) ages. Named after a now-defunct Swiss postpunk band from the early 1980s, the first outing of Melkweg’s GRAUZONE festival promises to be ‘a young and ambitious, multidisciplinary’ experience spanning the alternative music spectrum from synth-heavy pop through death rock. Headliners Echo & The Bunnymen have serious psychedelic credentials, but the fest is essentially egalitarian in nature, with the influential bands of yesteryear rubbing shoulders with the hungry whippersnappers of today, such as boy-girl combo Lebanon Hanover.

Noa Wildschut, violinist Born: 9 March 2001 (age 11) Feat: Winner of the Concertgebouw Young Talent Award Performs: 3 February, Bethaniënklooster, Barndesteeg 6  ‘When I was two years old my sister was already playing the violin. Of course I wanted to play a bigger instrument, so I started with the cello. But I kept holding it like a violin, and pretty soon I switched. I love to play solo. I never expected to win the award! They organised a gala dinner at which I got to play with [famous Dutch violinist] Janine Jansen. Lucky me!’

echoe & the bunnymen

GRAUZONE FESTIVAL

1 FEBRUARY, MELKWEG Lijnbaansgracht 234a www.melkweg.nl

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TED HEARNE: KATRINA BALLADS The devastating hurricane Katrina in 2005 generated furious political debate in the USA about what the well-documented failings of government officials implied about America’s racial hierarchy. Composer Ted Hearne has taken a radical approach for this modern musical outing, setting sound bites gleaned from the media coverage of those events (think Bush’s ‘Brownie, you’re doin’ a heck of a job’, delivered days before the resignation of the director of the Federal Emergency Management Agency for gross incompetence) to an angry and urgent score that fuses gospel and jazz.

17 JANUARY, MUZIEKGEBOUW Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl

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highlights

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Mike Kelley The era-defining artist is celebrated at the city’s preeminent modern art institution.

Best of Balanchine Het National Ballet celebrates the ground-breaking choreographer with three of his seminal works.

ven if you aren’t familiar with RussianAmerican choreographer George Balanchine (19041983) you’ll have heard of the New York City Ballet he founded, and his influence on the vocabulary of modern dance is incomparable. Though his ballets varied in style and approach, Balanchine generally played down the plot, preferring to let ‘dance be the star of the show,’ as he told one journalist. His ballets were always exceptional in terms of their musicianship, though – a fact that is often attributed to his father being a composer. To commemorate the 30th anniversary of Balanchine’s death, the Dutch National Ballet (which along with the Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris is the largest European guardian of Balanchine’s 150-work canon) is dancing three of his undisputed masterpieces: Serenade (1934), Symphony in C (1947) and Agon (1957), the

latter of which is also known as the ‘computer ballet’ or the ‘IBM ballet’. Serenade, the first ballet Balanchine created in America, is notable for its simplicity and lyricism, its wonderful spatial patterns giving form to Tchaikovsky’s Serenade for Strings. Symphony in C, originally created for the Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris, is an audience favourite that references the classical Russian ballet of the 19th century whilst mixing in high speeds that speak of the pace of his new life in America. Performed in simple sportswear, Agon sees ballet stripped back to its athletic core, with all of Balanchine’s attention focused on the pure construction of movement. Altogether, it’s a virtuoso dance hat-trick. 7-28 FEBRUARY, HET MUZIEKTHEATER Waterlooplein 22 www. het-muziektheater.nl

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whimsy on offer, too, though. The final rooms of the exhibition are examples from the Kandors series, colourful and captivating three-dimensional imaginings of the fictional city of Krypton, capital city of Superman’s home planet. Elsewhere, the pageantry of American suburban life (high-school yearbooks, soft toys and nativity plays) is the subject of Kelley’s somewhat sinister reinterpretation. After its stay on Amsterdam’s Museumplein, the show will migrate to Paris’s Centre Pompidou, then on to New York before ending up in the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art. Given that Kelley’s work became synonymous with the irreverent West Coast art scene, it represents a poignant homecoming. As Goldstein puts it, ‘It’s clear to me that Kelley’s legacy will only become more vivid in years to come.’ UNTIL 1 APRIL, STEDELIJK MUSEUM Museumplein 10 http://stedelijk.nl

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figure II (hair) collection sandraAlvarez toledo, paris

ruud baan

he opening of the first major solo show since the bath-tub-shaped Stedelijk modern art museum’s reopening last autumn has been a bittersweet affair for its curators and the institution’s director Ann Goldstein, a personal friend of the artist who worked in a bewildering array of media and formats. It’s bittersweet because, although the exhibition represents the biggest presentation of Detroit native Mike Kelley’s work, the artist died during its preparation, and an unintended retrospective was born. The death was a suicide, and Kelley’s darker side is certainly on display in this exhaustive and painstakingly assembled collection. Phalluses, skeletons, alienated body parts and even Nazi imagery loom large in various media, and one memorable exhibit incorporates amorphous and somewhat sinister shapes lurking under a multicoloured carpet. What lies beneath, we can’t be sure. There’s plenty of playful

25 gert-jan van rooij

13 questions Alderwoman and deputy mayor Carolien Gehrels gives you her take on Amsterdam. text Jowi Schmitz photo Adrie Mouthaan

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‘ We can be headstrong’ 1. What is your first recollection of Amsterdam? The canals. My father used to help the horse-drawn carriages over the high bridges of the canals. Through his stories I became very aware of the importance of water for Amsterdam. 2. What’s your favourite Amsterdam-related work of art? Karel Appel was a real Amsterdam artist who made a famous mural at the Stedelijk Museum.  The man and his art tell us a nice piece of Amsterdam-related history. 3. If someone had a single day in Amsterdam, what would you advise them to do? Walk. Start at Central Station, go to the Munt. From there follow the River Amstel, pass by the Hermitage and Royal

Theater Carré; follow the Weteringcircuit, go to the Leidseplein and then head down to the Museumplein. By then you’ll probably be hungry, so find yourself one of the many great restaurants in De Pijp. 4. What’s your favourite statue in the city? The statue of Spinoza  [by Nicolas Dings, 2008] in front of city hall. 5. In which building would you want to spend the night? In a houseboat somewhere on the outskirts of Amsterdam, East or West, a ship or a wooden boat, as long as it is in the water. 6. What’s your favourite mode of transportation? I like to grab my bike and go cycling. Not just in the centre, but taking the ferry to North

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Amsterdam, then onwards to Waterland and Monnickendam.  You’re there in a heartbeat. 7. What’s the best characteristic of your fellow citizens? Humour. 8. What’s the worst? They can be headstrong. 9. Tell us one thing about the city we didn‘t know. I want to put an end to this well-known myth: they say Amsterdam is built on wooden poles. It’s not. It’s floating on art and culture. 10. What restaurant would you recommend? Anna on the Warmoesstraat. It’s in the middle of the Red Light District, next to the Oude Kerk. It’s a hip restaurant frequented by creative and

exciting people – in jeans, not standing on ceremony. 11. Where do we find the best view of Amsterdam? On the North side of the IJ. Choose either the EYE Film Institute or the Tolhuistuin: it’s all good.  12. What delicacy is only available in Amsterdam? Pastry and cake from patisseries Holtkamp and Kuyt. 13. What’s your favourite public building? The library at the Oosterdokseiland. Take the elevator to the seventh floor and you get a great view of Amsterdam. More importantly, you’ll find many books and many people reading and studying those books in a relaxed and beautiful environment. I think libraries say a lot about their cities.

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

The modest majesty of The Movies

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Amsterdam boasts more art-house theatres than any other European city, each with an interesting history and unique atmosphere of its own.

text Bregtje Schudel

The Movies Haarlemmerdijk 161-163 www.themovies.nl

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here else to start than with The Movies, the oldest functioning cinema in Amsterdam? Located on the fringes of the picturesque Jordaan, housed in a characterful 17th-century building with four theatres and 400 seats, The Movies offers the perfect conclusion to a day of consumerism on indie shopping stalwart, the Haarlemmerdijk. In October 2012, this cinema, which started life as Bioscoop Tavenu, celebrated its 100th anniversary. During the Second World War it was a

modest local theatre, playing big releases in their second run. After the war, The Movies (then called Cinema Hollandia) focused on action films. Now the theatre has found a comfortable middle ground between smaller art-house films and directors’ movies with ‘slightly’ bigger budgets, from Michael Haneke’s Amour and Thomas Vinterberg’s Jagten to 3D spectacles such as The Hobbit and Life of Pi. It also caters to parents with young children via Cinemum, with regular screenings on Friday and Saturday mornings.

Speaking of catering, the restaurant (serving dinner from 5.30pm) offers decent meals and nice package deals, including the popular dinner and a movie arrangement (be sure to book a seat in advance). The Movies breathes nostalgia. Before and after the film, take a moment to relax and admire the plush surroundings in the bar. The art deco interior makes The Movies a more modest sibling of the majestic Tuschinski Theatre near Rembrandtplein, while its smaller scale adds a cosy feel.

highlight The Movies

go see these DJANGO UNCHAINED

SIGHTSEERS

Most directors shy away from anything resembling pulp fiction, but Quentin Tarantino thrives on it. Who else would make a movie about a black slave (Jamie Foxx) turned mercenary? Want more? EYE has a special Tarantino retrospective until 27 January.

This is British humour at its most bleak and uncomfortable, from the director of Kill List. Thirty-somethings Chris (Steve Oram) and Tina (Alice Lowe) are trying to enjoy their caravan holiday in Yorkshire, but as Chris’s rage mounts, the bodies keep piling up.

ome things are worth the wait. Like the newest Tarantino movie (see Django Unchained, right), the next Terrence Malick picture – or a film by Paul Thomas Anderson. Anderson’s last picture, There Will Be Blood, dates from 2007 and brought Daniel Day-Lewis his second Oscar for Best Actor. The Master promises to be just as dark, just as powerful and just as award worthy. Freddie Quell (Joaquin Phoenix) is a troubled soul. Traumatised by the Second World War, he wanders around town having sex with anything that moves and picking fights. When he gets caught up in the cult of Lancaster Dodd (Philip Seymour Hoffman) he seems to find new purpose. But will his demons really keep quiet? A lot has been made about the resemblances between Lancaster Dodd and L Ron Hubbard, the founder of Scientology. But The Master is as much about Scientology as Psycho is about a heist. It’s the relationship that counts – between Lancaster, the enigmatic, and Freddie, the tragically flawed.

THE IMPOSSIBLE

THE LAST STAND

Adapting true stories for the big screen can be treacherous, but for The Impossible the director took every measure to stay as true as possible to the story of Maria (Naomi Watts) and Henry (Ewan McGregor), who get overtaken by the tsunami of Boxing Day 2004.

The Austrian Oak is back! Arnie may be 65, but he still packs a punch as Sheriff Ray Owens, the only thing standing between a fugitive drug lord and the Mexican border. By the director of A Tale of Two Sisters.

Direction: Paul Thomas Anderson Release: 24 January

She bagged Oscars for Best Picture and Best Direction for The Hurt Locker, about an elite bomb squad post 9/11; with Zero Dark Thirty Kathryn Bigelow reimagines the decade-long search for Osama bin Laden. Multiple Oscar nods are guaranteed.

The Master

Direction: Quentin Tarantino Release: 17 January

Direction: Juan Antonio Bayona Release: 17 January

ARBITRAGE Richard Gere plays a man you love to hate: successful, charming and completely untrustworthy. When his mistress dies, all his shady business dealings threaten to come to the surface. Susan Sarandon, Tim Roth and Laetitia Casta co-star. Direction: Nicholas Jarecki Release: 24 January

ZERO DARK THIRTY

Direction: Kathryn Bigelow Release: 24 January

Direction: Ben Wheatley Release: 31 January

Direction: Jee-woon Kim Release: 7 February

PASSION Is it art? Of course not! But at least the movies of Brain De Palma are always entertaining. In erotic thriller Passion he pits mentor (Rachel McAdams, Mean Girls) against protégé (Noomi Rapaci, Millennium) with steamy results. Direction: Brian De Palma Release: 21 February

PROMISED LAND Director Gus Van Sant and actor Matt Damon reteam for the fourth time for this foray into the moral minefield of fracking. Damon plays a sales agent for a gas company who travels around buying land from its owners. But one rural town isn’t as willing as it first appears… Direction: Gus Van Sant Release: 28 February

LINCOLN

SILVER LININGS PLAYBOOK

The dramatic life of Abraham Lincoln could easily fill a miniseries or two, but Steven Spielberg – very wisely – focuses on his final weeks. The Civil War is ending, but now Lincoln faces an even greater struggle: changing the Constitution. Lincoln may win Daniel Day-Lewis his third Oscar.

On paper the synopsis reads like a dime-a-dozen romantic comedy, but Silver Linings Playbook has a surprising bite, thanks to an inspired turn by Jennifer Lawrence as bitter widow Tiffany, who sets her sights on soft-hearted Pat (Bradley Cooper). The two bond over mental health issues and, erm, modern dance.

Direction: Steven Spielberg Release: 31 January

Direction: David O Russell Release: 28 February

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EYE presents the exhibition:

Oskar Fischinger 1900 –1967

Please DO touch!

16.12.2012 /17.03.2013 www.eyefilm.nl

Oskar Fischinger, Allegretto, 1936-1943, © Center for Visual Music

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If you love flowers, visit the zoo.

“Decades before computer graphics, before music videos, even before Fantasia…, there were the abstract animated films of Oskar Fischinger” New York Times

Co-organized by

Oosterdok 2, Amsterdam www.e-NEMO.nl

jan & feb 2013

part III

eat drink chic ‘I arrived in De Pijp from Turkey more than 30 years ago. I remember being told, “We are moving to a better place.” That is what De Pijp is to me: a better place.’ Burhar Kiling, 44, owner Ozkilinclar Supermarket

Janus van den Eijnden

At the first MARC BY MARC JACOBS store in the Netherlands, ladies will find almost the entire collection (silk dresses with graphic prints right down to lemon-coloured skinny jeans) but also the beautiful bags, purses, sunglasses and jewellery that have helped make Jacobs’ name.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: DE PIJP EATING OUT ON THE MENU DELICIOUS… MACARONS PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

RIJSEL Housed in one of the former ‘household schools’ often credited with ruining the international reputation of Dutch cuisine, Rijsel, with its delectable French-Flemish menu (think duck sausage with smoked duck slices, green beans and roasted hazelnuts) is effecting a culinary resurgence like a phoenix from the flames. With a sustainable ‘head-totoe’ approach, an emphasis on the finest quality ingredients and simple, rotisserie-style cooking, this is every meat-loving foodie’s dream – and well worth the trip out East. Marcusstraat 52 www.rijsel.com

part III eat, drink & chic

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

de pijp

Patricia weijman, 24

works in real estate, from Amsterdam

‘De Pijp is always alive, and there is so much to do – during the day with the market, which has everything from food to trendy shoes – and in the evening with all the bars.’

You could roam around for hours in De Pijp. Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter is a lively mix of cultures, cuisines and sights. text Anna Whitehouse

Bohemian rhapsody

o one is entirely sure where the name ‘De Pijp’ (The Pipe) came from: some believe it was the narrow, meandering ‘pipe’-like streets; others assume it was because of a ditch that once divided the district – now home to the bustling Albert Cuyp Market, otherwise known as ‘the Kitchen of Amsterdam’. Either way, Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter is hot on the picturesque Jordaan’s heels in terms of popularity: house prices have increased by 350 per cent in the last decade. A hub for artists, students and bohemian spirits, De Pijp is undeniably Amsterdam’s creative district. Divided in two (‘De Nieuwe’ and ‘De Oude’), this area even has streets named after its artistic alumni: the main thoroughfare is called Ferdinand Bolstraat after one of Rembrandt’s pupils, while the Vincent van Goghstraat speaks for itself. At the turn of the 21st century, abstract artist Piet Mondriaan allegedly founded his revolutiona-

ry art of ‘De Stijl’ in a poky studio on Ruysdaelkade (no. 75 should you want a historical peek), while the writer Ferdinand Bordewijk referred to the area as ‘a ramshackle bordello, a wooden shoe made of rock’ while penning his acclaimed novel Growling Animals in the early ’30s. It was a time of unadulterated bonhomie, with the likes of Eduard Jacobs igniting the Dutch cabaret scene with his absurd, humorous skits. Bawdy stand-up, drunken social debate and general reverie filled the rustic cafés, while brewers such as Heineken flocked to supply the booze. Ask any local here directions to their house and they invariably say, ‘Behind the Heineken Brewery.’ Even the architecture hasn’t lost this playful vibe, with Ceintuurbaan 251-255 sporting carved wooden gnomes tossing balls at each other from the rooftops. While De Pijp has always harboured beatnik flair, with cafés, art-house cinemas and utopian students in abundance, the area

neighbourhood watch

part III eat, drink & chic

The Albert Cuyp Market is otherwise known as ‘the Kitchen of Amsterdam’. DUIKELMAN The culinary curious flock to specialist family-run kitchen supplier Duikelman from all over Europe. Packed from floor to ceiling with every conceivable cooking accessory – from basic models to chef-standard blow-outs – this is a foodie’s dream. If you’re looking for a traditional Dutch poffertjes pan or a stamppot stamper, look no further. Ferdinand Bolstraat 66-68 http://duikelman.nl

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BLOND More than ten years ago fair-haired pals Femque and Janneke started creating painted crockery together. Their fun and occasionally cheeky style went down a storm with the Dutch populace and was soon picked up by big department stores. At the duo’s flagship store, their pretty, girlish designs embellish everything from teapots and mugs to make-up bags and wallets.

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Gerard Doustraat 69 www.blond-amsterdam.nl

CHARLIE + MARY This eco fashion store offers green shopping with style. Images of shapeless hessian kaftans instantly vanish on entering this pretty Nordic-style spot, with designers such as Gemma Marissa and Monkee Genes offering everything from Fair Trade jeans to handstitched necklaces. There’s also a café serving some of the best organic carrot cake in town.

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Gerard Doustraat 84 www.charliemary.com

owner Ozkilinclar Supermarket

‘I arrived in De Pijp from Turkey more than 30 years ago. I remember being told, “We are moving to a better place.” That is what De Pijp is to me: a better place.’

Hilda de jong, 24

make-up artist, from Amersfoort

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’De Pijp is the true Amsterdam. It’s cosy, and the people are real.’

Ferdinand Bolstraat

Burhar Kiling, 44

Ruysdealkade

did see a seismic shift in CULINARY DNA during the ’60s and ’70s. The Heineken Brewery’s immense growth attracted Spanish, Turkish, Moroccan and Surinamese workers – there are now more than 150 different nationalities residing in the area – who immediately showcased their tastes around the Albert Cuyp Market. Local antiques dealer Martina van der Malrijk remembers it well: ‘Everything was rather bourgeois in the ’50s; it was arty yet quite narrow-minded. There was only one colour and it was Dutch.’ Van der Malrijk goes on to explain local reaction to these shifts: ‘At first we didn’t like it – I remember the first day that the Albert Cuyp Market smelled of bakso malang [an Indonesian spicy soup] instead of fresh bread – but we soon adapted and their food became ours and our home became theirs.’ It is this inclusive attitude that above all epitomises this multi-ethnic ’hood. De Pijp is also the territory of physician, urban planner and philanthropist Samuel Sarphati, who is commemorated in SARPHATIPARK with a statue. This green oasis in the centre of De Pijp attracts visitors with delicate vistas and impressive foliage. Complete with a dog park, children’s playground and outdoor gym area, hip mummies natter alongside the city’s bright young things penning their memoirs. The heart of this neighbourhood, however, is ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT – the ‘pipe’-like street that cuts this vibrant area in two with its 260 stores of hustle and bustle operating six days a week. Whether Vietnamese spring rolls, Dutch herring or freshly-made stroopwafels, this famous market epitomises the diversity that has put this bohemian hub on the map.

e ëlkad f Isra Joze

FIRMA PEKELHAARING The city’s hipsters radiate towards Firma Pekelhaaring for a spot of rustic Italianstyle dining with like-minded arty folk. Filled to the brim with vintage furniture and well-informed waitresses who won’t leave you hanging, the wafts of freshly-made pasta coming from the open kitchen are worth putting a toe in the door alone. Also open for lunch. Van Woustraat 127-129 www.pekelhaaring.nl

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neighbourhood watch

part III eat, drink & chic

Sarphatipark is a green oasis in the centre of De Pijp. FLAMINGO Serving mulled wine and steaming apple pie in winter and fresh mojitos in summer, Flamingo, at the heart of the Albert Cuyp Market, is one venue that suits all. With cool flourishes, such as wooden chandeliers and faux-bourgeois silk wallpaper, this brown café’s unrivalled market view (and extensive beer selection) makes it a perfect peoplewatching spot. Eerste van der Helststraat 37 www.cafeflamingo.nl

KEG, BORROW OR STEAL?

 DE TAART VAN M’N TANTE A ‘Mad Hatter’s Tea Party’-esque cake emporium, ‘My Aunt’s Cake’ is one of De Pijp’s most kitsch and colourful cafés. Offering the punchily-named ‘Chocolate Bitch Pie’ made with pure Belgian chocolate alongside Dutch staples such as apple pie, this eclectic spot offers welcome respite from the bustling Ferdinand Bolstraat. Ferdinand Bolstraat 10 www.etaart.com

café de pijp There’s a fun retro feel here – ’70s lamps, school chairs twinkly fairy lights – and DJs spin at the weekends, when the place is usually rammed. There’s a full menu, plus upmarket snacks for those undecided about the ’eating is cheating’ mantra. This is a trendy place for sure, but not intimidatingly so. It feels like a bar where hipsters drink when they’ve crossed the 30 threshhold.   Ferdinand Bolstraat 17-19 http://cafedepijp.eu

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When Freddy Heineken was kidnapped on 9 November 1983 the Dutch media went crazy. Freddy, who was responsible for truly putting the gargantuan beer brand on the map, was abducted with his driver by five kidnappers: Cor van Hout, Willem Holleeder, Frans Meijer, Jan Boellaard and Martin Erkamps. The stunt resulted in a payment of €15.8 million, although two culprits were immediately caught, two fled to France andone Paraguay. After lengthy investigations the kidnappers ended up in Dutch jails, but have all since been released. The 2011 film De Heineken Ontvoering, starring Rutger Hauer (pictured), reignited debates in the media about whether they should have been allowed out. Freddy sadly passed away in 2002, leaving his entire multimillion euro fortune to his daughter, Charlene.

Experience the best acoustics in the world

Jubileumpartner

part III eat, drink & chic

eating out

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

BLUE SPOON

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Prinsengracht 587 www.andaz.hyatt.com

new in town

ocated in the chic new Andaz Hotel on the Prinsengracht, this former library has been redesigned by world-renowned Dutch design power house Marcel Wanders. He has created a fairy-tale-like interior with more than a hint of Alice in Wonderland: oversized objects play with scale – huge white bells hang from the ceiling – and there are playful references to Holland and its history. However, the dishes on the menu are far from typically Dutch. Instead, Blue Spoon boasts an international menu where a rich French fish soup, Asian crab salad and American steak sit side by side. Prefer something Dutch? Go with the shrimp cocktail made from delicate North Sea prawns in a mayonnaise dressing. Prices are friendly and portions generous, while the large-scale space, consisting of multiple levels, makes it ideal for people-watching. Cosy booths are perfect for those who prefer a bit more privacy. The service at this five-star hotel is as it should be: excellent. So if you’re in the mood for an after-dinner nightcap, head on down to the bar for some pampering. And those reluctant to leave (or those in search of an exciting Valentine’s date) can book one of the 122 spectacular rooms.

eating out

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37 trendy BAUT BAUT, on up-and-coming Wibautstraat, is a bar and restaurant but also a platform where photographers, stylists, fashion designers and other creative folks can flaunt their skills. The cavernous space retains some ‘vintage’ and industrial elements here and there, but while the interior may be a bit rough, the cuisine is refined. The kitchen is run by chef Michel van der Eerde, who has previously worked in renowned gourmet restaurants across town and beyond. At BAUT he serves up more simple (and affordable) dishes, such as organic farm-fresh chicken and Asian soft-shell crab. Also open for breakfast, lunch and drinks.

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Wibautstraat 125 http://bautamsterdam.nl

critics’ choice MATA HARI

ata Hari is located in a quiet part of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal, just a short stroll from the Red Light District. In this restored monumental building you can enjoy restaurant food at pub prices in a living-room setting. The design of the place is well thought out but looks relaxed and organic. The large space (two floors with feature staircase) is filled with comfortable vintage armchairs, sofas, tables and retro chairs, tiered pendant lamps and even a cabinet of board games, which helps to create a nice homely feel. Hardly surprising, then, that this place calls itself a bar, restaurant and living space. The menu, however, consists of anything but simple home cooking. Instead, you can enjoy anything from oysters and pastas to thinly sliced veal with beans and smoked mackerel fillet with marinated radicchio, raisins and citrus dressing. You can literally spend the entire day here: order a coffee on the waterside terrace, enjoy a cocktail at the bar, get a salad for lunch or sit down for a full dinner. They also have free Wi-Fi so feel free to settle down in the living room with your laptop.

Oudezijds Achterburgwal 22 www.matahari-amsterdam.nl

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classic CAFÉ LOETJE

quick & simple SOUP EN ZO Nothing beats a good bowl of soup on a cold day. Soup En Zo, a tiny takeaway shop in the city’s ‘antiques’ district, serves up wholesome soup full of flavour, freshly made on a daily basis. Choose from up to ten different varieties, from Dutch chicken soup and Indian daal to Moroccan harira. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 54 www.soupenzo.nl

Jodenbreestraat 94a 

Café Loetje arguably serves ‘the best steak in Amsterdam’, as they claim on their website. The pub, with its great and ever-sunny terrace, has been jam-packed with blood-thirsty carnivores for over 30 years now. Customers come for the juicy tenderloin, veal liver and tuna steak, as well as the place’s brown-café atmosphere. Loetje has grown in size over the years and even opened another branch in the East at Ruyschstraat 15 (also with terrace!), as well as restaurants outside of the city. Johannes Vermeerstraat 52 www.cafeloetje.nl

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part III eat, drink & chic

on the menu

Three of a kind to suit every palate. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

asian fusion

mediterranean

international

GOLDEN CHOPSTICKS

BOCINQ

HOTEL DE GOUDFAZANT

Near bustling Dam square you’ll find genuine Cantonese cuisine in a typical Chinese interior. Here it’s all about the food: from the famous steamed oysters in black bean sauce to fresh lobster or the classic Peking duck. Fresh and authentic ingredients are imported daily from Asia.

The atmospheric BoCinq is scattered with great places to sit and relax. There’s a lounge and bar where you can order drinks and finger food, while the more formal brasserie has a FrenchMoroccan menu with dishes including prawns marinated in charmoula and merquez sausages with chickpea salad.

Oude Doelenstraat 1 www.goldenchopsticks.nl

Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 53-59 www.bo5.nl

Aambeeldstraat 10h www.hoteldegoudfazant.nl

UMI

CINEMA PARADISO

LOVEFOOD HQ

Hidden amongst the touristy streets around Leidseplein you’ll find a great Japanese restaurant. This sleek place offers tasty sushi at half price every day except Monday. Also on the menu: grilled dishes plus good wine and sake. It‘s surprisingly chic given its surroundings.

One of the busiest and therefore liveliest Italian restaurants in the city is housed in a former cinema in the Jordaan area. Here they serve simple but good Italian classics including vitello tonnato and spaghetti vongole, but also great pizzas from the wood-fired oven.

A pop-up success story gone concrete, at the cosy HQ former adman Jason Hartley serves authentic, comforting dishes from all corners of the world, from a Lebanese salad to a huge steak béarnaise or Dutch organic chicken. Also worth considering is the Sunday brunch.

Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 71a www.umisushi.nl

Westerstraat 186 www.cinemaparadiso.info

Koggestraat 1 www.jasonslovefood.com

WOO BROS

MAZZO

TROUW

The trendy Woo Bros, located on the Jodenbreestraat, has red walls, vintage furniture and is full of curiosities. The menu runs the gamut of Asian cuisine, from salmon tartare with avocado and gingersoy dressing to king crab legs stir-fried with peppers or Thai red curry. This place takes fusion to new levels.

Restaurant Mazzo is housed in a former nightclub in the Jordaan. The large-scale dining room features modern, minimalist interior design, while the Italian food ranges from scaloppina alla marsala and tagliatelle carbonara to pizza with gorgonzola, pear and walnut. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks.

Trouw, in the eastern part of Amsterdam (on the same street as Baut, see page 37) serves up international dishes with a special focus on vegetables. The rugged, industrial building (it used to house the Trouw newspaper) also houses a cutting-edge exhibition space in the basement and a popular nightclub.

Jodenbreestraat 144 www.restaurantwoobros.nl

Rozengracht 114 www.mazzoamsterdam.nl

Wibautstraat 127 www.trouwamsterdam.nl

This restaurant (it’s not a hotel!) is located in Amsterdam-Noord across the IJ, in a giant industrialstyled warehouse (over 1,200m2). Enjoy simple but sophisticated dishes such as artichoke cream with pecorino and lobster prepared in three different ways. Long live simplicity.

on the menu

delicious macarons The French fancy is taking Amsterdam by storm.

acarons: they come in all colours of the rainbow and they’re taking over Amsterdam. Poptasi Pastry, recently opened in De Pijp neighbourhood, sells nothing but macarons, and the range of flavours and colours (all natural!) is almost endless, from zingy lemon and creamy chocolate to crunchy pistachio. These delicate almondy meringue-based treats originally hail from Paris and have been attracting fans since the late 18th century because of their distinctive taste and light texture. Across the city, unusual flavour

combinations – such as rose and lychee or hazelnut and basil – sit alongside local specialties: try the typical Dutch flavours of gingerbread or stroopwaffel. They’re a little bite of Paris in Amsterdam. POPTASI PASTRY Gerard Doustraat 103 www.poptasi.com GEBROEDERS NIEMEIJER Nieuwendijk 35 www.gebroedersniemeijer.nl PATISSERIE TOUT Maasstraat 105 http://toutpatisserie.nl

part III eat, drink & chic

pretty things

Pretty things Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

MARC BY MARC JACOBS STORE

new in town

What: The first Marc by Marc Jacobs store in the Netherlands recently opened on Amsterdam’s posh shopping street Utrechtsestraat. The shop is chock full of pieces – bags to dresses and branded jewellery – from the second (more affordable) line of the New York designer beloved by the international fash pack. Interior: In spite of the light, airy interior (white walls and blue floor), at first glance the place looks rather small, but looks can be deceiving: in the middle

of the store there’s a men’s section, followed by a large room full of womenswear, changing rooms and a tempting collection of bags.

collection) but consists of stylish clothes and bags. The men’s accessories are more sober, but often have that typical Marc Jacobs twist.

Collection: Ladies will find almost the entire Marc by Marc Jacobs collection (silk dresses with graphic prints right down to lemon-coloured skinny jeans), but also the beautiful bags, purses, sunglasses and jewellery that have helped make Jacobs’ name. There are nice gift items like iPhone cases and iPad sleeves featuring humorous details, neon colours or the designer’s trademark prints. The men’s collection is smaller (think capsule

Must have: A Marc by Marc Jacobs bag, of course! For those with a smaller budget, there’s also a nice rubber braided bracelet, with lizard-skin texture, for a more purse-friendly €40. Conclusion: One-stop shopping for fashion-lovers and MJ fans, but also a good place to score gifts for others.

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Utrechtsestraat 120 www.marcjacobs.com

41 books TASCHEN STORE Taschen is known for publishing beautiful coffee-table books at bargain prices. In the Taschen brand store, sandwiched between the luxury boutiques of the PC Hooftstraat, you’ll find a large selection of titles, including impressive art and architecture publications as well as illustrated travel guides and erotic photography books. Luxurious special editions can also be admired, since they tend to be too heavy for the average airline’s baggage policy.

FRIDAY NEXT

PC Hooftstraat 44

 www.taschen.com

The owners of this concept store at the beginning of the Overtoom are interior decorators and have gathered all kinds of beautiful things under one roof, from designer furniture and lighting to tableware, candlesticks and table linen. But there’s more: you can also find a special collection of bags, jewellery and even cosmetics. If you need a breather, you can sit down for lunch, an espresso or a glass of wine in the Friday Next café. Overtoom 31

 www.fridaynext.com

classic DE BIJENKORF De Bijenkorf (‘The Beehive’) opened its doors on Dam square back in 1870, and is the largest department store in the Netherlands. The impressive historical building has five floors with a wide selection of high-end brands covering everything from clothes and cosmetics to electronics, toys and homeware. On the ground floor you’ll find different shop-in-shops by luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo and Mulberry. Dam 1

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 www.debijenkorf.nl

part III eat, drink & chic

what’s in store

what’s in store These fashion-forward style emporiums will have you (m/f) turning heads.

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text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

ABERCROMBIE& FITCH (M/F)

FRANCISCO VAN BENTHUM (M)

The Amsterdam edition of Abercrombie & Fitch – the American brand best known for its jeans, sportswear and quality basics (not to mention its genetically perfect staff) – is housed in a historic three-storey building. The half-naked doormen and banging house music make shopping here truly an experience.

For years, Dutch designer Francisco van Benthum has been giving traditional menswear a contemporary twist. His beautifully minimalist store, located in the Nine Streets, stocks crisply tailored suits and shirts as well as casual clothes.

Leidsestraat 32-34

 www.abercrombie.com

BELLEROSE (M/F) Belgian fashion house Bellerose has been making beautiful and timeless casual clothing since 1989. The collections are influenced by authentic workwear and sportswear, but are always stylish and fashionable. The Bellerose store on the Utrechtsestraat has a section for men, women and children.

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Utrechtsestraat 70 www.bellerose.be/amsterdam

CENTRE NEUF (F) Centre Neuf is known for its special mix of trendy high-quality brands. Flying the French flag are Iro, Paul & Joe and Vanessa Bruno; representing the Swedes are Acne and Won Hundred. Homegrown gems like Yarn Unit and Aaiko can also be found here.

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Utrechtsestraat 139 www.centreneuf.com

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Herenstraat 13 www.franciscovanbenthum.com

FRED PERRY (M/F) In one of the charming Nine Streets – not far from Francisco Van Benthum’s flagship store – you’ll find the Fred Perry shop. This ‘British heritage’ brand effortlessly combines sportswear with street fashion. Besides jackets, sweaters and bags the store also stocks the legendary cotton polo shirt with laurel wreath embroidery. Hartenstraat 25

 www.fredperry.com

SPRMRKT (M/F) Housed in a 450m2 former supermarket, SPRMRKT is a fashion concept store and one of the coolest shops in Amsterdam. The owners hand pick the products they like, which can range from cutting-edge fashion to items from emerging designers right down to vintage Dior and art books. Rozengracht 191-193

 www.sprmrkt.nl

WEEKDAY (M/F)

SUKHA (F) A stylish concept store with a focus on people and the environment. Sukha sells brands like the successful Dutch label Humanoid, sustainable labels Studio JUX and Camilla Norrback, wonderful pants by Monkee Genes and the complete Fine Collection, all arranged by colour. They also stock nice interior design pieces and gifts.

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Haarlemmerstraat 110 www.sukha-amsterdam.nl

Lovers of progressive fashion and affordable prices rush to Weekday. This Scandinavian department store sells designer fashion, carefully selected vintage pieces and super-skinny jeans by Cheap Monday in a rainbow of colours. Think Scandi-chic minimalism at Ikeaprices. Rokin 84

 www.weekday.com

Admire the art of diamondpolishing in Amsterdam Gassan Diamonds, a family owned business, is located in a beautifully restored originally steam driven diamond factory and was built in 1879. Visitors can view the diamond polishers at their craft, while multilingual guides explain where diamonds are found and how rough diamonds turn into dazzling brilliants. Loose polished diamonds are shown as well as an elaborate jewelry collection. After the tour you are invited for a free drink in our charming coffee shop in the former boiler house and browse through the extensive jewelry & watch collection in our boutique. Gassan Diamonds is proud to introduce a breathtaking and worldwide patented cut: Gassan 121, with one hundred and twenty one facets. Let a tour of Gassan Diamonds be the highlight of your trip; free guided tours tours 7 days a week, all year round from 9.00 a.m. till 5.00 p.m. personal attention for individuals and groups diamonds mounted while you wait large jewelry and watch collection on premises with brands such as Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Omega, Choices by DL and Gassan 121 parking for tour buses/mooring site VAT refund for non EU residents To arrange your tour, visit our website: www.gassan.com

A Brilliant Choice Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam, Holland T +31 (0)20 6225333 F +31(0)20-6246084

amsterdam at your fingertips From top tourist destinations and cultural events to the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden gems, the I amsterdam City Guide is like having a local by your side. Available for iPhone and Android.

1, 2013 12 - September December 13, 20 new exhibition: John Gwaytihl, Mask of a young woman, 1880–90 Haida, Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia, Canada. Courtesy of the Division of Anthropology, American Museum of Natural History, New York, 16/364

part IV

the

jan & feb 2013

CLUBBING/MUSIC/ EXHIBITIONS/THEATRE/ KIDS/FESTIVALS/ gay & lesbian/SPORTs

Bas kosters s/s 2013

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK Sashaying into town twice a year amid a flurry of air kisses and champagne, Amsterdam Fashion Week not only brings together the cream of the international fashion scene, but also reaches out to the general public with its DOWNTOWN programming, encompassing more stylish events – pop-up stores, exhibitions, fashion shows and themed walking tours – than you can shake your Jimmy Choos at. Various locations, www.amster damfashionweek.com. Fri 18-Sun 27 Jan, various times, free

part IV The A-list

clubbing/nightlife CTRL+ALT+DANCE Shake away the weekly blues to a danceable mix of the best indie, dance, pop, rock and alternative hits in the Oude Zaal of the Melkweg. A side programme of the weekly Gemengd Zwemmen party, this club night tackles the alternative realm of danceable pop music. A rotating roster of DJs and guest DJs guarantees that the music stays fresh. Melkweg, every Sat, midnight, €10

music, to create a brand new sound that is captivating dance floors from Dubai to Ibiza. Line-up includes Tiger & Woods (Live), Sean Brosnan, Tom Trago, Larry de Kat, Aike & Dickson, Martin Bel & Mike Melchiot. AIR, Fri 25 Jan, 23.00, €15 Imprint & Proper’s Cult NYC’s legendary psychedelic disco and house addict Daniel Wang (Balihu) plays Trouw tonight. He has been known to rush to the dance floor to dance with fans before mixing in his next tune. Support comes from DJs San Proper, Sandrien and Shifted. Trouw, Fri 25 Jan, 23.00, €15, €8 before midnight

BURLESQUE FREAKOUT Club night with live burlesque and variety shows, where rock ’n’ roll meets vaudeville, glamour THE VENTURE meets sleaze for a titilating a This hip hop/R&B event is the swinging night out! Line-up includes Vivid Angel (UK), Sayu- kick-off for new Dutch initiative The Venture. Antoine McColisree Dee, Miss Glitter Painkiller and Valentina del Pearls (Paris), ter, better known under his rap moniker Ace Hood – who has Mr Blanco and DJs Charley collaborated with the biggest Rhythm & Dionysius. Fancy dress encouraged and rewarded names in the hip hop world – is one of the featured artists who with best-dressed prizes. is signed under the YMCMB Club 8, Sat 19 Jan, 22.00, label founded by Lil’ Wayne. €12.50 Besides a performance by Ace ANTI FASHION PARTY Hood, hip hop and eclectic DJs Flava, Kid Q, Nicky Fouquet As Amsterdam Fashion Week rolls into town accompanied by and Nicky Bizzle will spin their tunes. Hosted by Qbah and a flutter of air kisses and cham4SHOBANGERS. pagne, so does the 13th edition The Sand, Fri 25 Jan, 23.00, of the Anti Fashion Party. A €24.50 tongue-in-cheek concept by fashion designer Bas Kosters and WIRED @ Klinch DJ Wannabe A Star, this edition This promises to be an excellent promises a seedy offering of ‘Acid, Poop and Gangsta Punk’. night, with Detroit techno veteNo pre-sale, so best be on time ran Robert Hood (Underground Resistance, M-Plant) bringing and well-dressed – anti-fashion his minimal sounds while upstyle, of course. and-comer Kyle Hall does his Club NYX, Sat 19 Jan, 23.00, weird, funky thing, with support €10 from local Tom Ruijg. WIBAUT AVENUE COCKTAILS Melkweg, Fri 25, 23.00, €18 Every Wibaut Avenue Cocktail Bassline Night is accompanied by Amsterdam’s longest running luscious tunes from the record hip hop night, which started collection of DJ Marcel Barlag, out at the legendary and dearly whose DJ booth is actually his departed RoXY club many very own bicycle. There’s no moons ago. Expect hip hop pure cover charge and the special and simple. Russian Standard cocktails are a Paradiso, Fri 25 Jan, midmeasly €5. night, €13.50 Canvas, Tue 22, 29 Jan; 5, 12, 19 & 26 Feb, 20.00, free VERKNIPT CLASSIC NOODLANDING! Techno and deep house club night in the stylish, intimate, Marking the unofficial start to tri-level nightclub Barkode the weekend, the Noodlanding (formerly Sinners). Line-up parties started out as a special includes Arujana Schiks, Prunk, night aimed at introducing a Francesco Robustelli, ME.N.U, student audience to the ParaDeep N Disco boys, John diso. Expect to hear the best of Steel, Daan Donk, Ferro and the ’80s and ’90s – classic hip Mesquitas. hop, grunge and alt.rock, new Barkode, Sat 26 Jan, 23.00, wave and party pop. €12.99 Paradiso, Wed 23 Jan, 23.30, €5 WE ALL LOVE 80S & 90S FRIDAY NIGHT LIVE! An established night in the Amsterdam clubbing scene, We Every Friday night, a band or All Love 80s & 90s pops up at artist – from upcoming singervarious spots around the city. songwriters to famous rock DJs spin old-school tunes and formations – takes to the stage at this comedy stalwart, playing the VJ team are on hand to spice things up with retro visuals. anything from jazz to funk, soul Panama, Sat 26 Jan; 23 Feb, to lounge and hip hop to rock. 23.00, €10 Toomler, every Fri, 23.00, free FUTURE DISCO Future Disco is a compilation series and a Dutch global party brand, which takes influences from ’70s, ’80s and ’90s house

TRANCE NATION Spread over two areas, more than a dozen of the biggest names in trance music will spin their tunes. Dutch trance

Choice clubbing

Factory and Poema in Utrecht. Catch him while you can: this boy’s going places. Fast. Westerunie, Fri 8 Feb, 22.00, €15 CLICK: 6 YEAR ANNNIVERSARY Click is the successful techno dance concept conceived by Exprezz, one of the biggest names in the Amsterdam techno scene. After six years of organising events, it’s time to celebrate with a sizzling birthday party from 11.00 until 08.00 the next morning. That works out at a bargain €1.40 per hour. Westerunie, Sat 9 Feb, 11.00, €30

harry briefies

Clubbing

HOUSE DANCE FOREVER You’ve been served! In this spectacular dance-off, urban dance improvisers will compete with each other under the watchful eye of the audience and the professional scrutiny of an international jury in a showcase of urban dance styles – from hip hop to raga jam. After the main event, three finalists can call out a jury member of their choice to compete in an epic dance-off. The winner will be showered with eternal fame and cash prizes. Paradiso, Sat 2 & Sun 3 Feb, 17.00, €20

FLIRTATION: LOVE & POTION Flirtation is a girls- and womenonly dance event that caters to an open-minded female audience. This edition revolves around the coming Valentine’s Day with a ‘dating in the dark’ event. The suggested dress code is black and/or red. Panama, Sat 9 Feb, 23.00, €17.50 GIRLSLOVEDJS GirlsLoveDJs is a collaboration of two notorious Amsterdam clubbing animals: Rob Zwart and Ron Simpson. Their DJ act is eclectic and playful, spinning everything from electro to hip hop, pop, dubstep and back. AIR, Sat 9 Feb, 23.00, €18

MAJOR LEAGUE PRESENTS: RAM @ KLINCH Klinch is a long-running club night, which rocks Amsterdam’s iconic Melkweg with a series of events featuring electronic music in all its many forms. This edition sees RAM records take control, with a DJ line-up including Andy C (pictured), Delta Heavy, Culture Shock, Pamb & Harsh and MCs Dart & Dapper. Melkweg, Fri 22 Feb, 23.00, €20 pioneer Ferry Corsten, top female DJs Claudia Cazacu and Orla Feeny plus promising upand-comers Erick Strong and Tigran Oganezov are just some of the names on the impressive star-studded line-up. The Sand, Sat 2 Feb, 22.00, €20

ZICKZACK: WORLDWIDE BOOGIE The patented Worldwide Boogie played by the ZickZack Soundsystem consists of old and new music from around the world mixed with contemporary organic house and boogie grooves. It’s a musical journey flavoured by the traditional cultures of Africa, the Caribbean and South America, well worth a listen. Canvas, Sat 26 Jan, 22.00, €8 SMASH HITS Every first Saturday of the month this event kicks back with the best hits from the ’90s up until now. The laid-back lounge atmosphere of the barrestaurant gives way to a more festive mood for Smash Hits. Try one of the house speciality cocktails: the Raspberry Mule and Bubbelicious are wildly popular – and for good reason. Club Rain, Sat 2 Feb, 23.00, €10

LATINO PARTY NIGHT Party it up Latino style with mestizo, pachanga, cumbia, reggaeton, baile funk, Latin hip hop and merengue. DJ Rodrigo and friends plus MC Mauro will keep your body moving until the early hours with the best of what Latin-American music has to offer. Enjoy two-for-one Cuba Libre specials from the bar, Chilean empanadas fresh out of the oven and ice cream to cool you down. Winston, Fri 15 Feb, 23.30, free GROTESQUE Club night with mixed dance, club trance, hard trance, progressive and trance. Line-up includes Alex M.O.R.P.H., Angelique!, Divini & Warning, Ferry Tayle, Jay Junior, Leon Bolier, Miss Legacee, RAM, Renvo, Richard Durand, Woody van Eyden and MC Da Silva. Westerunie, Sat 16 Feb, 22.00, €20-€27.50 VRIJ 5 YEARS The electro-heavy VRIJ nights have a history of taking place at unusual locations and for their special fifth anniversary edition, they’re hitting the Concertgebouw. Expect wicked tunes, weird puppets, mind-boggling entertainment and a killer DJ line-up! Concertgebouw, Fri 22 Feb, 19.00, €30

CARTEL Cartel is an unconventional deep house, house and techno event that celebrates the fringe and spontaneity, catering to the JUNCTION party animals who really want to create a thumping dance Even though Kevin Arnemann floor and who are not afraid of is only 20 years old, he’s already working up a sweat. The music left quite a mark on the techno is always a combination of new scene. After winning the coveted DIRTY DUTCH AFTERSHOCK and established DJs and live Internationally acclaimed dance TWSTd DJ contest, leaving talent from the worlds of house, behind a whopping 160 contesparty returns to its roots in deep house, tech house and tants and winning both Jury and Amsterdam for a performance similar styles. at the Heineken Music Hall. Audience vote prizes, he landed Studio 80, Sat 2 Feb, 23.00, Line-up yet to be announced residencies at the monthly Junc€12.50 but sure to be epic, if you like tion techno parties and at Sugar

jan & feb 2013

music /popular & JAZZ that sort of thing. Tickets won’t be around for long once the DJs are announced. You have been warned. Heineken Music Hall, Sat 23 Feb, 22.00, €49.50 TROUW OP ZONDAG Trouw op Zondag was born during the Amsterdam Dance Event in 2009, when Marcel Dettmann’s birthday party was spiced up by an unannounced back-to-back set by Seth Troxler and Patrice Baumel, which caused the party to last three hours longer than originally planned. Besides the marathon dance sessions at the ADE, Trouw op Zondag also hosts more intimate, recurring parties at Trouw. This editions features a ten-hour set by German DJ Michael Mayer. Trouw, Sun 24 Feb, 17.00, €15 NIK BÄRTSCH’S RONIN Composer and pianist Nik Bärtsch describes his Zen-funk quartet’s musical style as ‘ritual groove’. Translation: minimal music with the rhythmic timing of funk and the serenity of Japanese ritual music. North Sea Jazz Club, Thur 28 Feb, 21.00, €18 Addresses AIR Amstelstraat 16, www.air.nl Barkode Wagenstraat 3-7, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl Canvas op de 7e Wibautstraat 150, www.canvas7.nl Club 8 Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b, www.club-8.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, http://clubnyx.nl Club Rain Rembrandtplein 44, www.rain-amsterdam.com Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10, www.concertgebouw.nl Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590, www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a, www.melkweg.nl North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1, www.northseajazzclub.com Panama Oostelijke Handelskade 4, www.panama.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8, www.paradiso.nl The Sand Mekongweg 5, www.thesand.nl Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17, www.studio-80.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2, www.toomler.nl Trouw Wibautstraat 127, www.trouwamsterdam.nl Westerunie Klönneplein 4-6, http://westerunie.nl Winston Warmoesstraat 129, www.winston.nl

POPULAR & jazz SOLANGE Solange is the younger sister of Beyoncé and the older cousin of Shanica Knowles. Since she was 15, she has been working as a singer-songwriter, actress, model, dancer and DJ, releasing two studio albums to date, with her third album, titled True, set for release at the beginning of this year. Bitterzoet, Sat 19 Jan, 21.00, €12 JD MCPHERSON One of the most exciting rock ’n’ roll acts to emerge over the past year, JD McPherson is a young singer and guitarist touting raw tunes that not only hark back to the Fifties, but also have a crisp and contemporary production. Melkweg, Sun 20 Jan, 22.00, €17.50 DIEGO EL CIGALA Diego ‘El Cigala’ is the flamenco singer with the gritty voice. The Romani crooner from the Lavapies neighbourhood of Madrid is one of the great interpreters of the classic, deep flamenco also known as the cante jondo, and his voice marries different musical worlds with subtle mastery. Royal Theater Carré, Mon 21 Jan, 20.00, €20-€48 AVANT LA LETTRE Avant La Lettre is an Amsterdam-based band making music that is layered and compulsive, but light and lucid at the same time. In 2010 they were chosen to record two tracks for Muziek Centrum Nederland’s Unsigned project, and they’ll finally present their debut album tonight. Paradiso, Wed 23 Jan, 20.00, €9 AIMEE MANN Interested in the full range of human faults, foibles, dysfunction and self-delusion? You could opt to spend some time with an entertaining catalogue of idiosyncrasies: Aimee Mann is as fine a chronicler of the human comedy as popular music has produced. Paradiso, Thur 24 Jan, 19.30, €25 THE DUTCH WIND ENSEMBLE: FIERY FLAMENCO The Dutch Wind Ensemble loves working with passionate singing styles such as dado, Corsican close harmony, Icelandic folk songs and the traditionals from Naples. In honour of the Flamenco Biennale, they have composed a fiery concert dedicated to the world’s greatest flamenco singer, Carmen Linares. Podium Mozaïek, Thur 24 Jan, 20.30, €14.50-€16.50 TORO Y MOI Having spent his formative years playing in punk and indie-rock acts, Toro Y Moi has been Chaz Bundick’s vessel for musical exploration since 2001. Establishing himself as a chillwave maestro, 2010 would prove to be his flagship year, releasing debut

album Causers of This, an iconic slice of cutting-edge dance pop. MC Theater, Thur 24 Jan, 20.30, €14 DAVID KWEKSILBER BIG BAND The David Kweksilber Big Band is a prime example of why the climate for ensemble music in the Netherlands is praised throughout the world: headstrong classically trained musicians and jazz improvisers find each other in this big band. Tonight’s performance includes the world premiere of a new composition by Klas Torstensson. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sat 26 Jan, 20.30, €19-€24

Muslims released their second album, titled Strapped, in September last year. Paradiso, Wed 30 Jan, 20.00, €11 CONOR OBERST At the tender age of 13, American singer-songwriter Conor Oberst began his recording career, and he has since produced an enormous amount of material, all showing the influence of singer-songwriters David Dondero and Simon Joyner. Paradiso, Fri 1 Feb, 19.30, €25

DINOSAUR JR This Massachusetts band has enjoyed something of a cult indie following since the ’80s. The signature Dinosaur Jr sound is melodic tunes saturated in layers of guitar noise and punctuated by J Mascis’ elaborate yet laconic guitar solos. They were also a major influence on the then-up-and-coming Nirvana. Paradiso, Fri 8 Feb, 20.30, €19 THE AMERICAN SONGBOOK Henk Meutgeert was one of the founding fathers of the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw. Together with Sjoerd Dijkhuizen, tenor saxophone player with the Jazz Orchestra, Meutgeert will explore the American Songbook of modern jazz, bebop, swing and beyond. Concertgebouw, Fri 8 Feb, 19.30 & 21.30, €27

77 BOMBAY STREET Radio-friendly guitar pop from Swiss brothers Matt, Joe, Esra and Simri-Ramon Buchli. As MARZIO SCHOLTEN you’d expect from four young GROUP family members who grew up Marzio Scholten has been with an obvious love of The hailed as a role model for young Beatles, their voices entwine contemporary jazz musicians, together perfectly, and their two TIES MELLEMA not only for his lightning-fast albums to date – Up in the Sky technique and agile finger work, and Oko Town – are shining Performing with the EnAccord but also for his powerful, mature examples of harmonious pop. String Quartet, saxophonist Ties compositions with effective Paradiso, Fri 1 Feb, 22.00, €8 Mellema performs covers and melodies that linger. new music inspired by the clasJOHANNES MÖLLER North Sea Jazz Club, Sat 26 sic funk and pop of Prince. Jan, 21.00, €16-€25 Johannes Möller is a Swedish Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 8 guitarist and composer who has Feb, 20.30, €18.50 MODERN TURKISH MUSIC been touring around the world AMIRA KHEIR Compositions by modern and captivating audiences with composers from Turkey. The his charismatic and soulful An evening with Sudaneseprogramme features works from performances. Italian singer-songwriter Amira Cemal Resit Rey, Muammer Concertgebouw, Sat 2 Feb, Kheir. She creates a sound Sun, Ekrem Guyer and others. 20.15, €35 inspired by traditional Sudanese Soprano Tülay Uyar is acsong and instruments, mixed RIGHT SAID FRED companied by Osman Bayman with elements of jazz, soul, East on piano, Süleyman Unver on This boldly bald band is back and West African music, as well oud, soloist Murat Ay and Grup to perform their greatest hits. as music from the Middle East. Otantik. Richard and his brother Fred Podium Mozaïek, Fri 8 Feb, Podium Mozaïek, Sun 27 Jan, Fairbrass (who is straight – who 21.00, €18.50 14.00, €12.50-€14.50 knew?) are best known for their SALIF KEITA string of hits in the early ’90s, SIERRA LEONE’S REFUGEE including ‘Don’t Talk, Just Kiss’, Salif Keita is an internationally ALL STARS ‘Deeply Dippy’ and their debut recognised Afro-pop singer Sierra Leone’s Refugee All single ‘I’m Too Sexy’. and songwriter from Djoliba, Stars is made up of refugees Melkweg, Sat 2 Feb, 21.00, €25 Mali. He has a reputation as displaced during the Sierra the ‘Golden Voice of Africa’, and TAMARYN Leone Civil War. Since their his music combines traditional return to Freetown in 2004, the Dreamy pop from New Zealand- West African music styles with band has toured extensively to born vocalist Tamaryn and her influences from both Europe raise awareness for humanitacollaborator and producer Rex and the Americas. rian causes. John Shelverton. Recalling the Paradiso, Sun 10 Feb, 20.30, Melkweg, Sun 27 Jan, 20.30, very best of British shoegaze €35 €15 (Slowdive, Cocteau Twins and ANGUS STONE Lush), they create a heady wash SARAH FERRI of guitar music that’s perfect for The male half of the succesVocal folk, jazz and pop from closing your eyes and swaying sful Australian indie folk duo half-Belgian, half-Italian along to. Angus & Julia Stone. On his solo singer-songwriter Sarah Ferri. Bitterzoet, Mon 4 Feb, 21.00, album Broken Brights, Angus Influenced heavily by ’70s folk €10 unleashes a frenzied electric songs and upbeat gypsy jazz guitar barrage, but at its core TRUST from the ’50s, her intimate yet the album is still a solid singerenergetic songs remind at times After Crystal Castles and Austra, songwriter effort with an array of Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday Toronto seems to have cornered of acoustic sounds. and Nina Simone. the market on crossover-capable Paradiso, Tue 12 Feb, 19.30, Paradiso, Mon 28 Jan, 20.00, gothic synth-pop. Its latest €20 €8 export is Trust. Robert Alfons THE JOY FORMIDABLE and Austra drummer Maya CHRISETTE MICHELE Postepski market a brand of The Joy Formidable are an indie Grammy award-winning Chris’80s-channelling dance music rock band formed in 2007 in ette Michele is an American that’s introverted and gloriously North Wales. Their music has R&B singer on the Def Jam gloomy. been described as ‘primal epic record label. She has been Trouw, Wed 6 Feb, 20.30, €10 grunge rock à la The Breeders, featured on popular hip hop Arcade Fire and Yeah Yeah SONIC SOIREE albums such as Jay-Z’s Kingdom Yeahs’. Come and Nas’s Hip Hop Is A smaller, intimate, monthly Paradiso, Wed 13 Feb, 21.00, Dead. Her jazzy style is reminisversion of Sonic Connections, €12 cent of past divas such as Billie the festival for up-and-coming SOWETO KINCH Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald. Belgian and Dutch pop and rock Melkweg, Wed 30 Jan, 20.00, bands that takes place annually Young Brit saxophonist Soweto €20 in Amsterdam’s Flemish cultural Kinch is one of the most centre De Brakke Grond. Sonic exciting jazz talents around at THE SOFT PACK Soiree recurs every first Thursthe moment. He’s renowned The San Diego-born but now day of the month. for blending traditional jazz Los Angeles-based American De Brakke Grond, Thur 7 Feb, grooves with hip hop beats, soul band previously called The 20.30, €8-€10 and pop.

part IV The A-list

music/popular & JAZZ/classical Podium Mozaïek, Fri 15 Feb, 21.00, €14.50 JAMES WALSH An intimate church performance by James Walsh, the frontman of Britpop band Starsailor. His debut solo album, Lullaby, was based on the novel by Chuck Palahnuik and the subsequent script for the feature film adaptation. De Duif, Fri 15 Feb, 21.00, €17.50

Disappearance. Bitterzoet, Tue 19 Feb, 21.00, €15

Choice pop & jazz

SIGUR RÓS The Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós released their sixth studio album, Valtari, in May 2012. It is a sensitive and warm collection with strings, wind instruments and haunting vocals by Jónsi. Each track from the album even has its own music video, made in collaboration with several creative artists. Heineken Music Hall, Thur 21 Feb, 20.00, €37.50

BLOC PARTY English indie-rock band Bloc Party comes back after a long hiBELLOWHEAD atus with their new record Four. After an extended break the The 11 members of the British group got together again in late folk formation Bellowhead have 2011 to record in New York. The been amassing an ever-growing album was recorded with Alex audience with their electrifying Newport, who has previously live performances. Expect great worked with At The Drive In diversity in musical styles and and The Mars Volta. sheer pandemonium from their Melkweg, Fri 15 & Sat 16 Feb, arsenal of 20 different musical 20.00, €35 instruments. Melkweg, Thur 21 Feb, 21.00, FRED FRITH €18 The legendary English multiASHER ROTH instrumentalist, composer and guitarist visits Amsterdam for a Much-discussed rapper Asher special solo concert. During his Roth broke through in 2009 prolific career, Frith has contriwith his debut single ‘I Love buted to over 400 albums. College’. His album Is This Too Bimhuis, Sat 16 Feb, 20.30, Orange? guarantees good€18/€15 flowing party hip hop. It can be no coincidence that ‘Party Girl’, ACOUSTIC AFRICA 3 featuring Meek Mill, was the After the worldwide success of first single to be released. the two previous editions, this Melkweg, Fri 22 Feb, 20.30, third musical journey focuses €19.50 on the richness of the female voice in African traditions. Hear MARC RIBOT CERAMIC DOG the power of songs through Ceramic Dog is a band made the voices of Dobet Gnahoré, up of guitarist Marc Ribot plus Manou Gallo and Kareyce Fotso. Shahzad Ismaily, a largely selfMelkweg, Sat 16 Feb, 21.00, taught American-Pakistani bas€22.50 sist, and drummer Ches Smith. Both have been involved in the MARK EITZEL sprawling avant-garde project Mark Eitzel is best known as Secret Chiefs 3. lead singer of the San Francisco Bimhuis, Sat 23 Feb, 20.30, band American Music Club, and €20/€17 was voted Rolling Stone’s SongTHE DARKNESS writer of the Year in 1991. He released a solo live album, Songs The glam-rock sensation of Love Live, that same year, reunited in 2011 and will return featuring raw and emotionto Amsterdam to rock Paradiso al acoustic versions of his best in honour of their new album, AMC songs. But his first solo al- Hot Cakes. Fans of the English bum proper was 1996’s 60 Watt rockers have waited for a long Silver Lining, a highly personal, time for a sequel to their second jazz-inflected work. album, One Way Ticket to Hell... Paradiso, Sun 17 Feb, 20.00, €12 and Back, which was released in 2005. DARKSTAR Paradiso, Wed 27 Feb, 19.30, Part of the concert series ‘The €20 Rest is Noise’, the London MOTEL WESTCOAST electronic outfit Darkstar will preview material from their new In the fourth instalment of Moalbum. Although renowned for tel Westcoast’s ‘Coast to Coast’ their dark, atmospheric and series, the ensemble, which bass-heavy recordings, they specialises in the sunny harmoperform as a traditional live act, nies of America’s West Coast, blending vocals and synth melo- will tackle two continents: songs dies with pre-programmed beats. by North American greats such Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue 19 as Fleetwood Mac, The Eagles Feb, 20.30, €10 and the Beach Boys; and also Australasian hits from Crowded JASON LYTLE House and Icehouse. A master of melancholic folk Meervart, Thur 28 Feb, 20.15, pop, Jason Lytle is best known €26.72-€22.27 for his lead vocalist role in FRISKA VILJOR the acclaimed and recently re-formed American indie outfit Following in a long tradition Grandaddy. Here he performs of melodic pop bands from solo, reaffirming his fear of Sweden, Friska Viljor provide a machines taking over the world perfect balance between earnest with his lulling, quirky and folk, bouncy pop and danceoccasionally danceable numbers friendly rhythms. Even in their from recent album Dept. of most melancholic moments it’s

CLASSICAL SATURDAY AFTERNOON CONCERTS Every year, the Noorderkerk Concert Foundation organises a series of Saturday afternoon concerts at the church, located on the Noordermarkt in the heart of the Jordaan neighbourhood in Amsterdam. Head along for recitals by renowned musicians, new ensembles and talented young soloists in a wide array of classical musical genres. Noorderkerk, every Sat, 14.00, €15-€17.50

PAUL BANKS It’s been a busy few months for fans of Interpol, the New York post-punk outfit that found global acclaim a decade ago thanks to their stark, atmospheric guitar songs. The end of 2012 not only delivered a tenth-anniversary reissue of their debut album Turn on the Bright Lights, but also the first official solo album of vocalist Paul Banks (who has previously stepped out as Julian Plenti), simply titled Banks. The sonic mood will be familiar to fans, but it’s also clear he’s been expanding his songwriting craft. Melkweg, Sun 10 Feb, 20.00, €23

FATOUMATA DIAWARA It may seem strange to call Diawara the rising star of Mali’s pop scene seeing as she’s been a star of both film and stage since the mid-’90s. But it’s only during the past couple of years that she’s attracted global attention for her sensual bluesy folk, recalling compatriot Rokia Traoré. One to watch, she’s already worked with Oumou Sangaré. Melkweg, Tue 26 Feb, 20.30, €22.50

difficult not to swoon. Bitterzoet, Thur 28 Feb, 21.00, €12 Addresses Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3, http://bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2, www.bitterzoet.com Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10, www.concertgebouw.nl De Brakke Grond Nes 45, www.brakkegrond.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115-125, www.carre.nl De Duif Utrechtsedwarsstraat 7, http://deduif.home.xs4all.nl Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590,

LIVE FROM BUENA VISTA – THE HAVANA LOUNGE Since Wim Wenders’ 1999 documentary, this Afro-Cuban musical collective has been renowned throughout the world, their name conjuring emotive blasts of sultry brass, intricate Latin American guitar melodies and the blazing Cuban sunshine. Featuring percussionist Alberto Valdés and singer Alberto Fernández. Paradiso, Fri 15 Feb, 20.30, €25

www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234a, www.melkweg.nl MC Theater Polonceaukade 5, www.mconline.nl Meervart Meer en Vaart 300, www.meervaart.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1, www.muziekgebouw.nl North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1, www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8, www.paradiso.nl Podium Mozaïek Bos en Lommerweg 191, www.podiummozaiek.nl Trouw Amsterdam Wibautstraat 127, www.trouwamsterdam.nl

HET GELDERS ORKEST Antonello Manacorda conducts the Gelders Orchestra as they perform Mahler’s Symphony No.2 (Resurrection Symphony). In the fourth and final part, soprano Lisa Larsson and alt Anna Larsson join forces with the choir and orchestra. Concertgebouw, Sat 19 Jan, 20.15, €27-€32.40 ASKO|SCHÖNBERG The 20th century is alive with controversial music: works that cause discussion, sensation and uproar and premieres that get completely out of hand – the most famous example being Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring. Asko|Schönberg turn their hand to what were then controversial works by Satie, Ligeti and Eisler. Concertgebouw, Sat 19 Jan, 21.00, €29.70 SUNDAY MORNING CONCERT (OSIRIS TRIO) The Osiris Trio plays classic piano compositions as well as adaptations of beloved opera extracts. The timeless melodies concerning love and death by composers such as Puccini and Massenet will undoubtedly speak to the hearts of all music lovers. Concertgebouw, Sun 20 Jan, 11.00, €20.70 GIOVANNA RIBOLI Every month, a guest musician is invited to play De Duif ’s extraordinary church organ. This time around the Argentinian organist Giovanna Riboli has the pleasure. The audience can watch the organist live via a large screen. De Duif, Sun 20 Jan, 16.00, free. MITSUKO UCHIDA Female Japanese master pianist Mitsuko Uchida started piano lessons when she was three years old, simply because it was part of a traditional Japanese upbringing. She quickly developed a love for classical music from the West and spent part of her formative years living in Vienna and London. Her professional drive and her intensive studies have brought her to her current position as one of the greatest interpreters of the Viennese classical repertoire. Concertgebouw, Sun 20 Jan, 20.15, €39.60-€63 THE BIG BACH DAY The popularity of the first two Bach Days have made this third

jan & feb 2013

edition inevitable. Besides performances by talented musicians of Bach’s suites for cello and sonatas for viola da gamba, four-handed Bach adaptations for the fortepiano and three wonderful cantatas by the master composer, the audience is invited to sing his music during the performance of one of his motets, led by Ton Koopman. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sun 20 Jan, various times, various prices LUNCHTIME CONCERTS Who said there’s no such thing as a free lunch (concert)? The Concertgebouw lunchtime concerts are exactly that, showcasing everything from young, upcoming talent to chamber music and public rehearsals by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. The concerts last half an hour and though a reservation or ticket isn’t necessary, it is advisable to show up half an hour in advance because of the large crowds the concerts attract. Concertgebouw, every Wed, 12.30, free ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA To celebrate the 125th anniversary of the Concertgebouw and their own 125th birthday, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra takes a break from their continenthopping tour for three special concerts on their home turf in Amsterdam. Concertgebouw, Wed 23-Fri 25 Jan, 20.15, €31.50-€121.50 NETHERLANDS RADIO CHAMBER PHILHARMONIC The Netherlands Radio Chamber Philharmonic performs an ode to the orchestra at the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ by the Dutch composer Cornelis de Bondt, who is famous for his references to the past. His piano concert Die Wahre Art refers to the famous mastery of the piano by Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, as well as to the symphonies by Webern. His latest work deals with farewells and is an ode to the Netherlands Radio Chamber Philharmonic, whose existence is threatened due to budget cuts. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur 24, 20.15, €10-€24 NIEUW ENSEMBLE For the past 20 years, the Nieuw Ensemble has been active in China and collaborated with composers and musicians from all over Asia. The sound of the Sho, the ancient Japanese mouth organ, complements the hobo and clarinet beautifully. And the sounds that the multiinstrumentalist Quang Ngo Hong manages to conjure from the single string Vietnamese Dan Bau have to be heard to be believed. This programme of intimate chamber music offers a wide array of enchanting, enticing music from contemporary composers originating from the Far East, specifically China, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. Concertgebouw, Fri 25 Jan, 20.15, €34.20

NETHERLANDS month, Muziekgebouw aan ’t RADIO PHILHARMONIC IJ offers a free lunch concert ORCHESTRA featuring a different artist on every occasion: soloists, quartets Works by Hartmann, Ravel or ensembles. A guided tour of and Stravinsky. Hartman’s Second Symphony is in essence this cutting-edge classical music venue precedes the performana ten-minute adagio. But for ces (11.00, €8). Hartmann, the adagio is the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Tue most autobiographical part of 29 Jan; 26 Feb, 12.30, free a symphony, the part in which he gives a voice to his most COLLEGIUM VOCALE GENT personal feelings. This adagio Philippe Herreweghe, founder features the saxophone in a and conductor of the worldstarring role and is explicitly famous Collegium Vocale Gent, related to the music made by selects four of his favourite Hartmann’s great musical hero: Bach cantatas, which will be Igor Stravinsky at his best, performed by the ensemble with as in The Rite of Spring and the help of a dream team of his Petrushka. Besides the explicit favourite soloists: Dorothee links to the works by Stravinsky, Mields, Damien Guillon and the music references the rich Peter Kooij. orchestral sounds of Debussy Concertgebouw, Wed 30 Jan, and Ravel. Soloist Jean-Efflam 20.15, €35-€79.50 Bavouzet stars in Ravel’s Piano Concerto in G. ORQUESTA SINFONICA DE Concertgebouw, Sat 26 Jan, NAVARRA 14.15, €28.80-€33.30 Upcoming tenor Joseph Calleja NETHERLANDS CHAMBER sings the most beautiful arias by ORCHESTRA Verdi and Puccini. The talented Maltese has already been dubA breathtaking display celebrating Britten, under the guidance bed the ‘tenor for the 21st cenof the famous conductor Grodan tury’ and since his debut at the tender age of 19, he has become Nikolic. To honour this special one of the most sought-after occasion, Martin Helmchen tackles the final piano concert tenors in the world of opera. His introduction to the Netherlands composed by Mozart. The sees him supported by the programme celebrates the renowned Orquesta Sinfonica centennial of the birth of the de Navarra. composer Benjamin Britten, Concertgebouw, Thur 31 Jan, whose Prelude and Fugue for 20.15, €24.30-€80.10 an 18-member strong string orchestra was the inspiration for NETHERLANDS RADIO the concert. CHOIR & THE NETHERLANDS Concertgebouw, Sat 26 Jan RADIO CHAMBER (20.15), Sun 27 Jan (14.15), Tue PHILHARMONIC 29 Jan (20.15), €15.80-€46.50 Concert blending contemporary THE NETHERLANDS BACH classical music with bluegrass, SOCIETY disco and avant-garde. In his first composition by Giel VlegWorks of Schütz and Brahms. gaar for choir and orchestra, the Even though they were sepamusic is inspired by mystical rated by over two centuries, experiences, separate from relithe compositions by Heinrich gion or ideology. Though Gospel Schütz and Johannes Brahms music is an obvious influence, that will be performed during expect the unexpected: disco this concert are linked in several and bebop music are just as ways. One striking similarity in fertile grounds for discovery in the texts is that both composiVleggaar’s work, a composer tions end with the same Bible who grew up on pop and jazz as citation: ‘Selig sind die Toten’. well as classical music. But more importantly, both Concertgebouw, Sat 2 Feb, composers work in a continuous 14.15, €28.80/€33.30 tradition that goes back to Luther in the 16th century, through PIERRE-LAURENT AIMARD & Schütz in the 17th and Bach in THOMAS ZEHETMAIR the 18th up to Brahms in the Works by Bartók, Mozart and 19th century. Beethoven performed on piano Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sun and violin. The combination of 27 Jan, 15.00, €29.50 a piano and a violin is one of the DUTCH CHAMBER MUSIC longest-lasting unions in the JUBILEE world of music. Mozart wrote In honour of the 125th annivers- fantastic sonatas for them, and ary of the Concertgebouw, three Beethoven brought the combiof the foremost Dutch soloists nation of instruments to a whole new level. In the 20th century, will perform lesser-known composers such as Crumb, WeDutch chamber music works bern and Bartók created whole written at the cusp of the 20th new worlds of sound for the century. Violinist Liza Ferschtmusical match made in heaven. mann and cellist Quirine Viersen are joined by pianist Hannes Pianist Pierre-Laurent Aimard Minnaar. Although the music is and violinist Thomas Zehetmair will take you on a musical trip rarely heard today, 125 years ago through time. it was the driving force for the Concertgebouw to be built, so all Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sat 2 Feb, 20.15, €29.50 the more reason for this jubilee concert. See Focus, right. ALEXEI VOLODIN Concertgebouw, Sun 27 Jan, Russian pianist Volodin won 20.15, €45 first prize at the Concours Geza LUNCH CONCERT Anda in Zurich in 2003. Since then, he has been developing an On the last Tuesday of every

marco borggreve

focus

125 years of Concertgebouw Amsterdam’s living monument to music

ith the Concertgebouw blowing out a mighty 125 birthday candles in 2013, music fans in Amsterdam are in for a real treat. The city’s oldest and biggest classical music venue has announced that international stars such as Angela Gheorghiu, Valery Gergiev, Bernard Haitink, Mariss Jansons, Leonidas Kavakos and Eva-Maria Westbroek will return to participate in its Jubilee Concerts series, showcasing the amazing musical heritage of this building. In each month of 2013, the Concertgebouw will focus on a different decade of musical history. It launches in January by taking inspiration from the period 1888-1899 (the pioneer years of the newly constructed Concertgebouw). The series then works chronologically up to the present day, via the birth of jazz, and eventually ending in December 2013 with the presentation of a large-scale education project based on Leonard Bernstein’s West Side Story, which is sure to pave the way for musical stars of the future. To kick things off, lovers of Dutch chamber music can enjoy a special performance by violinist Liza Ferschtman (pictured), cellist Quirine Viersen and pianist Hannes Minnaar on Sunday 27 January, exploring the intimate chamber works of the period. In February, the series moves on to 1900-1909, illuminating the great composers of the era, with performances by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra and mezzo-soprano Christianne Stotijn revisiting the venue’s exceptional relationship with Austrian composer Gustav Mahler.

Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10, www.concertgebouw.nl

part IV The A-list

music/classical Choice classical

CONFUSE GAVRIEL LIPKIND & ROMAN impressive international career. ZASLAVSKY His debut in the Master Pianist This recurring club night sees series back in September 2008 the boundaries between classical Gavriel Lipkind, one of the top was such a monumental success music and contemporary jazz cellists in the world, performs with the critics as well as the fade away as the string ensemble three masterpieces from the audience that a second recital Fuse brings together pop, clascanon of classical music in a was inevitable. sical music and jazz, helped by beautiful church setting. He Concertgebouw, Sun 3 Feb, guest artists from all kinds of is accompanied by his pianist 20.15, €28.80/€36 different backgrounds. Roman Zaslavsky. Club 8, Tue 12 Feb, 20.30, €8 Amstelkerk, Sun 24 Feb, 16.00, ISABELLE DRUET €20 NIEUW AMSTERDAMS PEIL Mezzo-soprano Isabelle Druet ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW performs as part of the internaThe chamber music ensemble ORCHESTRA tional Rising Stars initiative to performs three composistimulate upcoming musicians. tions by composers who have Giovanni Antonini and the The European Concert Hall braved tragedy by confronting it Royal Concertgebouw Organisation selects the most through their music. Featuring Orchestra will perform music promising young musicians in work by prisoners of war Olivier by Bach, Mozart and Haydn. Europe who have proven them- Messiaen and Gyorgy Ligeti and Antonini had his successful selves as great soloists and offers murder victim Claude Vivier. debut in 2009 with a mainly them spots in the participating Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur Italian baroque programme. LEONIDAS KAVAKOS & ENRICO PACE concert venues. 14 Feb, 20.15, €24 This season he returns with Concertgebouw, Wed 6 Feb, another solid repertoire. His Violinist Leonidas Kavakos will team up with pianist Enrico AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA 20.15, €31.50 countryman Giovanni SolPace for an evening of Beethoven sonatas. The Greek The Amsterdam Sinfonietta is lima is the soloist for Haydn’s violin phenomenon and the Italian pianist both share a love ASKO|SCHONBERG & SYREjoined by fortepiano specialist Concerto No.2 in D Major. The for chamber music and have jointly rediscovered BeetNE SAXOPHONE QUARTET Ronald Brautigams for a third composition is Symphony hoven, so expect a perfect symbiosis between the duo. Works by four contemporary performance featuring No.38 by Mozart, who said that Beethoven’s ten sonatas for violin are a great challenge Scandinavian composers. Swede adaptations of classic comits performance in Prague was for even the best musicians, but for the audience they composer Klas Torstensson is positions. On the line-up are one of the most beautiful nights the artist in residence this sea- Mozart’s Piano Concerto No.18, of his life. represent an intriguing insight into the development of the son at the Muziekgebouw aan Webern’s Langsamer Satz, a Concertgebouw, Wed 27 & famous composer. ’t IJ and has lived and worked chorale piece composed by Thur 28 Feb, 20.15, €22.50Concertgebouw, Tue 29 Jan, 20.15, €45 in the Netherlands for the past Bach and a mournful piece by €85.50 few years. Besides music by Hindesmith. AN EVENING OF TODAY Torstensson, compositions by Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Fri 15 the Swedish composer Anders Feb, 20.15, €35 The Nieuw Ensemble, in Hillborg, the Norwegian Rolf collaboration with ensemble MATANGI QUARTET Wallin and the Finnish comLooptail, performs works by poser Magnus Lindberg will be At the start of the concert talented, contemporary young performed. season, the Matangi Quartet composers. Through interviews Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur has moved its yearly concert from cafés around Amsterdam, 7 Feb, 20.15, €24 series from the Beurs from the city invades the Berlage to their new home in Muziekgebouw. The auditoriLES TALENS LYRIQUES the Amstelkerk. With their ums, the music, the projections, There are several versions of impassioned playing and smart the electronics, the musicians the lament of Mary. The mother presentation, they epitomise and the audience all become of Christ’s grief at the base of a new generation of classical part of the same world. A world OWEN WINGRAVE CONCERTGEBOUW CLASthe cross on which her son is musicians and the newly in which elements of the city crucified has proved to be a restored Amstelkerk is the of Amsterdam are shaken up, Opera Trionfo and the Nieuw SICS CELEBRATES LOVE fertile theme for composers. The perfect place to present their disassembled and brought Ensemble join forces for the The perfect concert for an version by Pergolesi, performed unique take on chamber music. together in new, sometimes first theatrical performance evening of romance. The tonight by these baroque specia- Schumann wrote Dichterlieber bizarre but eventually reasof Benjamin Britten’s Owen Netherlands Philharmonic Orlists, is one of the best known. after finally winning the hand suring shapes. Wingrave in the Netherlands. chestra accompanies vocalists Concertgebouw, Sat 9 Feb, of his beloved Clara in marriage Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur Presented in 1971 as a televi- Sally Matthews and Edgaras 14.15, €34.20/€40.50 in 1840 after a long struggle 28 Feb, 20.15, €24 with his father-in-law, Wieck. sion opera, it was inspired by Montvidas as they perform a DA VINCI PROJECT TRACKS: RAGAZZE QUARTET It would be another four years a short story from 19th-cen- medley of the most romantic Three young musicians who before the Dichterlieber cycle The Ragazze Quartet has tury American author Henry classic love songs of all times. are specialists in Renaissance was published and performed, invited the band Kapok to James. Britten used the tale Favourites from Verdi, Pucculture bring the revolutionary but the impact has been properform a strong, vibrant set as a public statement of his cini, Elgar and Donizetti will organ created by Leonardo found. The love that Schumann for the Tracks series. Kapok is a deeply-held pacifist beliefs. set a beautiful mood. Da Vinci in 1503 back to life, poured into these compositions wild and adventurous trio that Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Concertgebouw, Thur 14 playing Italian odes, sonnets flows from the pages and has combines guitar, drums and and frottole that go back to the made them cherished around horn to create an intriguing Wed 20 Feb, 20.00, €29.50 Feb, 20.30, €35.10-€49.50 time of the great inventor. the world. Featuring baritone sound that will contrast Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Sat 9 Maarten Koningsberger. beautifully with the serene Feb, 19.30, €24 Amstelkerk, Sun 17 Feb, 15.30, image and sound of the CAPpELLA AMSTERDAM €16 her ‘inspired performance’ of Ragazze Quartet. NETHERLANDS CHAMBER Sibelius’s songs. Accompanied Geoffroy Jourdain conducts Concertgebouw, Thur 28 Feb, ORCHESTRA HENNY HEIKENS by pianist Joseph Middleton, for this Francophile concert 21.00, €19 One of the biggest hits in clasDutch organist Henny Heikens Karneus returns to the Confeaturing (you guessed it) sical music: the Triple Concerto plays the restored Smits Organ certgebouw to put Scandinapredominantly French ADRESSES by Beethoven, accompanied by at De Duif. The audience can vian songs in the spotlight. composers. Jourdain is the music by Debussy and Gounod. watch the organist live via a Scandinavian music still founder and conductor of the Amstelkerk To perform the renowned Triple large screen. struggles to escape from the French vocal ensemble Les Cris Amstelveld 10, Concerto, you need three world- De Duif, Sun 17 Feb, 16.00, free shadows of Schubert and de Paris, and his connection to www.amstelkerk.net class soloists. Artist-in-residence Schumann, but in the late Cappella Amsterdam runs deep, Club 8 KATARINA KARNEUS Lars Vogt takes on the piece on 19th century, composers such with a shared broad interest in Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b, his piano, while conductor GorThe Swedish mezzo-soprano as Grieg and Sibelius shaped various styles of music from difwww.club-8.nl dan Nikolic takes up his violin performs Scandinavian songs Scandinavian music into a ferent periods in time. For this Concertgebouw and Gary Hoffman plays the from the 19th and early 20th form that could easily survive concert, he has selected MauConcertgebouwplein 10, cello. But that’s not all: regular centuries. Since she won the the confrontation. Norwerice Ohana’s Tombeau de Louise www.concertgebouw.nl harp soloist Sandrine Chatron BBC Cardiff Singer of the gian works by Delius, songs Labé; Pascal Dusapin’s Umbrae De Duif introduces the audience to the World Competition in 1995, by Sibelius and compositions Mortis; Julien Copeaux’s Pour Utrechtsedwarsstraat 7, new harp recently acquired by Karneus has been a welcome by the Swedish composer Ture Procuste and Capitolo Novo; http://deduif.home.xs4all.nl the orchestra, with two famous guest in international opera Rangstrom from the early 20th Philippe Hersant’s L’Infinito; Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ dances written by Debussy for houses. She has been an enthucentury are the clay that Kar- Vincent Manac’h’s Die Brücken; Piet Heinkade 1, the harp and orchestra. siastic promoter of Scandina- neus uses to sculpt her vision of Philippe Fénelon’s Madrigaux www.muziekgebouw.nl Concertgebouw, Sat 9-Mon vian music, gaining praise from Scandinavian music. d’après Rilke and more. Noorderkerk 11 Feb, various times, the Guardian for ‘bringing Concertgebouw, Tue 19 Feb, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Thur Noordermarkt 48, €15.80/€46.40 new dimensions’ to light in 20.15, €45 21 Feb, 20.15, €24 www.noorderkerk.org

jan & feb 2013

exhibitions/TEMPORARY

Halina, 2008

Choice exhibits

JAN VERSWEYVELD: INBETWEENS A collaboration between FOAM and the Toneelgroep Amsterdam, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the preeminent Dutch theatre company. Photographer Jan Versweyveld began working with Toneelgroep Amsterdam in 2001 and became their official photographer in 2005. For this exhibition, Versweyveld selected works that represent the moments theatre lovers never get to see – before or after a rehearsal – or from a perspective that could never be seen from the audience. FOAM, 25 Jan-17 Mar

still from circles, 1933

has come and gone,’ wrote Anne on 13 June 1944, ‘so now I’m fifteen.’ Shortly afterwards, the Frank family and four others were betrayed and arrested by IMPRESSIONISM: SENSATION the Nazis. AND INSPIRATION Anne Frank House, until 1 Mar Groundbreaking exhibition feaVIVIANE SASSEN: turing a huge selection of worldIN & OUT OF FASHION famous impressionist paintings drawn from the vast collection Exhibition showcasing the highof the State Hermitage Museum lights of fashion photographer in St Petersburg. The exhibition Viviane Sassen’s 17-year oeuvre, places the paintings in their ar- including choice selections from an early iconic series she made tistic context and features maswith Emmeline de Mooij for terpieces by pioneers including independent magazines such Claude Monet, Camille Pissarro, as Purple and Kutt. The exhiPierre-Auguste Renoir and bition also includes a series of Alfred Sisley, as well as work by other influential French painters photographs of muse and stylist Roxane Danset. from the second half of the 19th Huis Marseille, until 3 Mar century, such as Eugene Delacroix and Jean-Leon Gerome. EXTRAORDINARY Hermitage Amsterdam, until Amsterdam’s Museum of 27 Jan Bags and Purses presents an 1928 OLYMPIC GAMES: exhibition focused on unusuallyCOLLECTION CONNECTION shaped handbags, which first FROM QATAR TO made an appearance back AMSTERDAM in the 19th century. It wasn’t until the 1930s, however, that The Olympic Museums of AmElsa Schiaparelli really started sterdam and Qatar have joined forces to present an exhibition to raise eyebrows with her surrealist accessories and handbags. showcasing the surprising and persisting legacy of Amsterdam’s New materials and techniques meant that designers were only 1928 Olympic Games. limited by their imaginations Amsterdam Olympic Stadium, and it wasn’t long before bags until 31 Jan shaped like vehicles, animals NEW LIGHT and vegetables started to take Family exhibition exploring the the fashion world by storm. Includes work by Lulu Guinness, many innovations LED lights Sylvia Moschard and Sandra are making possible. A range of van Vliet. new applications, developments Museum of Bags & Purses, and innovations are showcased, until 10 Mar focusing on themes including the use of light in healthcare, design, art, fashion and agricul- SAL MEIJER’S AMSTERDAM The first retrospective of this ture, as well as in the transfer Amsterdam artist in more than of data. 25 years. Meijer is known for NEMO, until 31 Jan his paintings and etchings of LET’S GO OUTSIDE: Amsterdam’s canals, of farms CITY DWELLERS AND THEIR in the Gooi and of common COUNTRY ESTATES house cats. The simplicity of his paintings often saw his oeuvre The 17th-century inhabitants labelled ‘naive’ and ‘primitive’ of city mansions such as the until a 1957 article by painter Geelvinck Hinlopen House used and critic Kasper Niehaus to live on their country estates acclaimed him as ‘our greatest for a large part of the year. This modern primitive’. exhibition examines what drove Jewish Historical Museum, them to move to their annual until 17 Mar summer resorts outside the city and the impact this had on their DIRK BRAECKMAN lives. The focus here lies on the & ZARINA BHIMJI gardens and parks, the elements Dual show of solo projects by of nature that contribute to the Belgian photographer/filmmabiggest difference between the country life and city life, high- ker Dirk Braeckman and British lighting the importance of these artist Zarina Bhimji. Braeckman is acclaimed for his evocative green oases to the historical photographs that, while based landscape of the Amsterdam on subjects from his own Metropolitan Area. environment and surroundings, Geelvinck Hinlopen House, evoke obscure and mysterious until 4 Feb worlds. Indian/Ugandan/British SO NOW I’M FIFTEEN photographer, filmmaker and installation artist Zarina Bhimji New temporary exhibition uses consecutive seductive and featuring artefacts from every sensual images to vividly depict year of Anne Frank’s short life. Some of the pictures, letters and the long and often black shadow of colonialism in Africa, India books in the exhibition are reand Europe. cent acquisitions, on show to the De Appel, until 31 March public for the first time. They reveal a lively and curious girl – THE MASTERPIECES Anne on her father’s lap, at the During the rebuilding and beach with her sister Margot, at the ice-skating rink with her renovation of the Rijksmuseum, more than 400 of the finest friends and at school with her classmates – until anti-Jewish works from the 17th century will continue to be on show in the measures following the German redesigned Philips Wing. The occupation forced the Frank family into hiding. ‘The birthday Masterpieces exhibition offers

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

OSKAR FISCHINGER: EXPERIMENTS IN CINE MATIC ABSTRACTION A retrospective of pioneer of abstract cinema Oskar Fischinger (1900-1967), one of the most important film artists of the 20th century. An avant-garde filmmaker, Fischinger’s oeuvre has proved highly influential in the development of animated film, music videos and computer graphics. EYE, until 17 Mar

the unique opportunity to view all the highlights of the Golden Age in one place. The famous dollhouses, the finest Delftware, a wealth of silver, icons of Dutch history and of course the paintings by the great 17th-century masters Frans Hals, Jan Steen, Vermeer and Rembrandt all tell the story of the Golden Age. Rijksmuseum, until 31 Mar THE AMERICAN INDIAN: ART AND CULTURE BETWEEN MYTH AND REALITY Amsterdam’s Nieuwe Kerk explores the artistic traditions of the indigenous peoples of North America. The exhibition covers seven different regions, painting a picture of the rich and diverse arts and cultures of the Native American people. More than 200 works of art, artefacts and everyday objects transport

TUTANKHAMUN, HIS TOMB AND HIS TREASURES Nearly a ecntury after Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered by archaeologist Howard Carter, this international exhibition invites visitors to re-live one of the greatest archaeological finds in history. Covering 3,000 m2, visitors wander through a life-sized reproduction of the labyrinthine burial chambers. Amsterdam Expo, until 5 May

JEWISH FLAVOUR, A WORLDWIDE CUISINE From chicken soup to matzos and from bagels to Surinamese pom, Jewish dishes are enjoyed all over the world. In the first exhibition of its kind, the Jewish Historical Museum invites visitors to taste, discover and experience the Jewish kitchen first-hand. The exhibition examines the basis of Jewish dietary laws, explaining why, for example, milk and meat should not be eaten together and why cooking is forbidden on Saturdays. On specific days at designated times, kosher food will be available for visitors to taste and a special programme of culinary events will run alongside the exhibition. Jewish Historical Museum, until 5 May TROY: CITY, HOMER, TURKEY A temporary exhibition delving into the legendary world of Troy, a city of controversy and contradictions that never fails to inspire the imagination. Featuring a wealth of artefacts drawn from archaeological collections housed in Istanbul, Ankara and Canakkale (the modern-day location of Troy), the exhibition explores the many stories of the legendary city, showing how its meaning is constantly changing and is a continual subject of debate. Allard Pierson Museum, until 5 May JOHAN & ME An exhibition bursting with pictures and stories of people who have had an encounter with Dutch football legend Johan Cruyff, who turned 65 in April last year. Pictures and personal tales are complemented by a number of objects loaned from Cruyff ’s private collection, including one of his Ballon d’Or awards for European Footballer of the Year, which he was awarded in 1973 and 1974. Amsterdam Museum, until 12 May

VAN GOGH: MY DREAM An exhibition of a selection of Van Gogh’s seminal works, restored to their original vibrant colours and presented in chronological order. Seven speciallycommissioned 3D animations of visitors to the prairies of the some of the artist’s most famous Midwest, the plains around the works reveal the hidden dimenGreat Lakes, the shores of Cali- sions of these paintings, animafornia, Canada’s west coast and ting suggested movements and into the homes of the Navajo exposing hidden details to give and the Inuit. a peek into the artistic mind of De Nieuwe Kerk, until 14 April the most famous Dutch artist ever to have lived. TYPICALLY DUTCH Beurs van Berlage, until 13 May International travellers can ENCOUNTERS: HIDDEN kill time before their flight STORIES FROM OUR OWN with a selection of paintings COLLECTION selected for their quintessentially Dutch themes – such as The Tropenmuseum the flat, water-filled landscape, explores the hidden tales behind the monarchy, the cities, the items from its own extensive citizens and their families – at collection, pairing together the Schiphol branch of the a series of carefully selected Rijksmuseum. The paintings objects to explore what happens depict the Netherlands as seen when two ostensibly different through the eyes of respected objects are brought together: artists including Frans Hals, Jan an African idol meets an Apple Toorop and Karel Appel. computer; a portrait of Marlene Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Air- Dumas meets a German sample port Schiphol, until 1 May card showing 40 different eye

part IV The A-list

exhibitions/temporary/permanent colours. The encounters give an Part of the Netherlands-Russia impression of the Tropenmu2013 celebrations, this is a seum’s turbulent history from collaboration between FOAM, the 19th to the 21st century, and the Ministry of Culture of the consequently an impression of Russian Federation, the Moscow what links the Netherlands with City Government, the Moscow the rest of the world. City Culture Department and the Tropenmuseum, until 14 July Moscow House of Photography. FOAM, 25 Jan-3 Apr LIVING ON THE CANALs along AMSTERDAM‘S You can get a real sense of the canals grandeur and history of the historic Canal Ring via the A magnificent selection of views collective exhibitions of the of Amsterdam, from the 17th Amsterdam Heritage Museums. through the 20th century, on Here you needn’t just read or loan from the Royal Antiquarian look at pictures about Amster- Society of the Netherlands. This dam, but experience first-hand is the first time for almost 50 what living on the canals was years that the general public can really like. For the Amsteragain enjoy these extraordinary dam 2013 celebrations, the drawings. Amsterdam Heritage Museums Rembrandthuis, 26 Jan-26 have teamed up with local canal May tour specialist Canal Bus to BARBED WIRE offer the Amsterdam Heritage Canal Ticket. This combines a Featuring a selection of art and canal cruise with a visit to one or personal interviews, this exhiseveral canal houses, as well as bition focuses on the plight of the Amsterdam Museum. Dutch ex-soldiers who in 1943 Amsterdam Heritage Musewere forced into prisoner-of-war ums, until 2016 camps by the occupying Nazis to carry out enforced labour. VANITY BAGS BY Dutch Resistance Museum, MARCK&MO 2 Feb-26 May Exhibition marking the 20th MICHAEL TEDJA: SNAKE anniversary of celebrated fashion design duo MARCK&MO. A selection of 350 drawings and Edwin Marck & Moon Geerlings paintings on paper and linen by founded Studio Moed in 1992, multidisciplinary artist Michael which rapidly developed into Tedja, all revolving around the an esteemed leather goods label fictional character SNAKE and respected for its timeless, highhis imagined world. SNAKE quality handbags. It became tells a layered story about MARCK&MO in 2003. This geopolitically and historically retrospective exhibition will charged subjects via a collection showcase the label’s finest work. of works that can be intimately Museum of Bags & Purses, 22 small as well as monumentally Jan-10 Mar large, all produced within the last ten years. ONE GROUP SHOW: Cobra Museum, 2 Feb-26 May WASSINKLUNDGREN ADRIAAN DORTSMAN: The first major solo exhibition THE IDEAL CANAL by Dutch photography duo WassinkLundgren Museum Van Loon revisits provides a comprehensive overthe great legacy of Amsterdam view of their work, including a architect Adriaan Dortsman number of projects that have (1635-1682). Although perhaps never before been on show to not a famous name to many the public. The duo bases their present-day Amsterdammers, work on small observations or Dortsman’s work in the 17th cenhumorous details and situations tury remains prominent througthat arise in daily life, from hout the city: the unmistakable which they explore how the circular Lutheran Church on the medium of photography can Singel; Huis Six on the Amstel; distort reality. Maison Descartes on the FOAM, 25 Jan-17 Mar Vijzelgracht; the Oosterkerk on the Wittenburgergracht (where JAN HOEK: Dortsman was buried) and ME & MY MODELS Museum Van Loon itself. A series of photographs of Museum Van Loon, 8 Feb-8 Jun amateur models captured by Jan Hoek, featuring a range of subjects, from homeless fashionistas in Africa to a heroin PERMANENT addict looking for a career as a EXHIBITIONS model and people who he met via adverts or on the internet. BIBLE MUSEUM The photo shoots rarely proceed as planned, and this exhibition One of the oldest museums moves beyond the images themin the Netherlands, the Bible selves to explore the relationship Museum brings the stories of between the photographer and the Bible as well as biblical schothe model. larship and archaeology to life. FOAM, 25 Jan-20 Mar It is home to a large collection of ancient Jewish and Egyptian PRIMROSE, RUSSIAN religious artefacts, and museum COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY highlights include a reconstrucShowcase of different methods tion of the Tabernacle tent that of colour photography since is said to have housed the Ark the medium’s introduction to of the Covenant plus a first-rate Russia in the mid-19th century collection of Bibles, including – from mass-produced images to the oldest printed Bible in the individual hand-tinted photos. Netherlands.

EYE FILM INSTITUTE The EYE cinematography museum is home to an internationally-renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema, from the very first silent movies to the latest contemporary digital productions. The museum’s extensive programme includes exhibitions and events examining the history of film and contemporary cinematographic developments alongside regular screenings of classic and art-house movies plus festivals, theatrical family shows and retrospectives. GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HUIS The Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis is a decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Located on the Golden Bend of the grandest canal of all (Herengracht), the house was built as a status symbol for Golden Age power couple Albert Geelvinck and his wife Sara Hinlopen. Highlights include ornamental gardens as well as sumptuous themed salons. HET GRACHTENHUIS (HOUSE OF THE CANALS) A great place to start exploring Amsterdam’s hidden museums, this recent addition is a tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how this engineering marvel was built on swamp land. From here, visitors can easily explore other museums housed in canal mansions, and the museum is fully equipped to help plan itineraries. MUSEUM VAN LOON Visit Museum Van Loon and step back through time into Amsterdam’s sumptuous Golden Age. This is the only residence of its kind complete with an original stately carriage house. Among the most powerful 17thcentury families, the Van Loons belonged to the city’s governing elite, and were among the founders of the mighty VOC – the Dutch East India Company – back in 1602. With much of its original interior intact, the museum collection comprises paintings, antique furnishings and objets d’art. ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) On the Oudezijds Voorburgwal you’ll find one of Amsterdam’s most unexpected museums. At first glance, Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder looks like a typical 17th-century canal house, but there’s a historical church hidden behind the classical facade. This clandestine church in the attic dates back to the Reformation when Catholics were not permitted to openly practice their faith. The building is now a museum where you can admire grand chambers and remarkable exhibitions in addition to the hidden church. REMBRANDTHUIS Get to know the Old Master personally by visiting his home and studio. Located in the picturesque heart of Amsterdam, the house that Rembrandt

Addresses called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection Allard Pierson Museum of drawings and paintings by Oude Turfmarkt 127, Rembrandt himself as well as www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl by his contemporaries. The Amsterdam City Archives Rembrandthuis is also home to Vijzelstraat 32, 290 of Rembrandt’s etchings – a http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl near complete collection – and Amsterdam Expo an alternating selection is on Gustav Mahlerlaan 24, permanent display. www.amsterdamexpo.nl Amsterdam Heritage Museums HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM various locations, http://amster The permanent exhibition at damheritagemuseums.org the recently-renovated National Amsterdam Museum Maritime Museum is comprised Kalverstraat 92, of a series of smaller exhibitions http://amsterdammuseum.nl all exploring various elements Amsterdam Olympic Stadium of maritime life through history. Olympisch Stadion 21, See You in the Golden Age ofwww.olympischstadion.nl fers an up-close-and-personal Anne Frank House introduction to the Golden Prinsengracht 263-267, Age, when the Netherlands www.annefrank.org was one of the richest and most De Appel Arts Centre powerful countries in the world, Prins Hendrikkade 142, while other permanent features www.deappel.nl include exhibitions focusing on Beurs van Berlage paintings, globes, navigational Damrak 243, instruments, ship decorations, www.beursvanberlage.nl yacht models and an extensive Bible Museum glass, porcelain and silver colHerengracht 366-368, lection. And for a true period www.bijbelsmuseum.nl maritime experience, don’t Cobra Museum miss the chance to board the Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, Amsterdam – an exact replica www.cobra-museum.nl of a famous Dutch East India Dutch Resistance Museum Company Ship moored alongPlantage Kerklaan 61, side the museum. www.verzetsmuseum.org EYE Film Institute, STEDELIJK MUSEUM IJpromenade 1, The museum’s permanent colwww.eyefilm.nl lection is now on display in the FOAM Photograohy Museum beautifully restored historical Keizersgracht 609, building, with fixed spots for http://foam.org highlights such as the paintings Geelvinck Hinlopen House by Russian geometric abstract Keizersgracht 633, artist Kazimir Malevich, The http://geelvinck.nl Beanery by Edward KienHet Grachtenhuis holz and works by Willem de Herengracht 386, Kooning and Andy Warhol. Half http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl of the ground floor is reserved Hermitage Amsterdam for the best pieces from the deAmstel 51, sign collection, to demonstrate www.hermitage.nl the Stedelijk’s importance in the Huis Marseille design realm. Keizersgracht 401, www.huismarseille.nl TROPENMUSEUM Jewish Historical Museum Visitors to the Tropenmuseum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, can get to know the most beauwww.jhm.nl tiful, exciting and interesting Museum of Bags & Purses stories from around the world. Herengracht 573, http://muse The historic building provides umofbagsandpurses.com space for eight permanent Science Center NEMO exhibitions – themed around Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl Southeast Asia, Oceania, India, De Nieuwe Kerk Western Asia, North Africa, AfDam square, rica, Latin America and Man & www.nieuwekerk.nl Environment – and an ongoing Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder series of temporary exhibitiOudezijds Voorburgwal 40, ons, including both modern www.opsolder.nl and traditional visual arts and Rembrandthuis, photographic work. Jodenbreestraat 4, www.rembrandthuis.nl WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Rijksmuseum MUSEUM Jan Luijkenstraat 1, Soak up the authentic 19thwww.rijksmuseum.nl century atmosphere at the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Willet-Holthuysen Museum Airport Schiphol and find out what life was like www.schiphol.nl in Amsterdam for both wealthy Het Scheepvaartmuseum and ordinary members of Kattenburgerplein 1, society. Built in 1687, the house www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl and its fine collection of art and Stedelijk Museum furnishings were bequeathed Museumplein 10, to the city of Amsterdam by its http://stedelijk.nl last resident, Louisa WilletTropenmuseum Holthuysen. The mansion is Linnaeusstraat 2, beautifully preserved and highwww.tropenmuseum.nl lights include the magnificent Willet-Holthuysen Museum Blue Room, ornamental gardens Herengracht 605, and servants’ quarters. The muwww.willetholthuysen.nl seum also offers a collection of Museum Van Loon historic paintings and luxurious Keizersgracht 672, antiques. www.museumvanloon.nl

jan & feb 2013

THEATRE & DANCE DANCE: CONNY JANSSEN DANST – HOW LONG IS NOW? For the 125-year jubilee of Royal Theater Carré, Conny Janssen and her dance company have been tasked with a very special performance. The modern dance troupe from Rotterdam, known from the television show So You Think You Can Dance, presents How Long is Now?, a new production especially adapted for the large theatre. They’re accompanied by a live score from Dutch guitar band Alamo Race Track. Royal Theater Carré, Sat 19 & Sun 20 Jan, various times, €15.50-€35 DANCE: LO REAL As the son of a dancer, Israel Galvan was brought up on flamenco. The Spanish choreographer and dancer followed in the footsteps of his father, but he was to use tradition for his own purposes. In his work, he combines flamenco with contemporary dance and music, demonstrates an aversion to flamenco clichés and executes with virtuosity. Galvan is seen as one of the great innovators of the genre and has won almost all important flamenco prizes. Stadsschouwburg, Tue 22 Jan, 20.00, €16-€35 MUSICAL THEATRE: COME TOGETHER – THE BEATLES Musicians, singers, acrobats, actors and artists of the Danish Teaterkoncert ensemble will bring the classic songs by the Beatles to life with surprising twists. Part musical performance, part theatrical spectacular, Come Together promises to be all entertainment. Royal Theater Carré, Wed 23-Sun 27 Jan, various times, €17-€49 THEATRE: NORA The fundamental issue in Ibsen’s A Doll’s House is the conflict between warm and vibrant Nora and her possessive, unbending husband, Helmer. A devoted wife and mother, who dotes on her children, Nora is ready to dance a tarantella to charm her spouse. Trapped by her own sacrifices to love, she is forced to assert her own dignity and worth as an individual in this interpretation by Toneelgroep Amsterdam. In Dutch with English surtitles. Stadsschouwburg, Thur 24 Jan, 20.30, €10-€32.50 MUSICAL THEATRE: SCRAPARTSMUSIC ScrapArtsMusic is the name of a Canadian percussion theatre group. A combination of intricate rhythms, athletic choreography and startling light effects makes for a performance filled with the physical spectacle of sound and movement. ScrapArtsMusic started out as a group of artists performing on the streets of Vancouver, Canada. The instruments of the five skilled musicians are

manufactured from recycled trash: discarded artillery grenades, exhaust pipes, sanitary facilities, steel oil drums and broken steel rods. They push the limits of percussion while simultaneously helping out the environment. Meervaart, Sun 27 Jan, 20.15, €22.72-€26.72

feminine and also assertive and their attention purely on the masculine. This piece by language of the body, with all Dansmakers Amsterdam and the knowledge acquired in their Cecilia Moisio is a response to previous projects. Thus, they our need to emulate others and journey back to the starting OPERA: PURCELL GALA to silumtaneously be understood point of their collaboration, In this gala concert, Barokopera and accepted, just as we are. although not expecting to find Amsterdam will introduce you Melkweg Theater, Tue 12-Thur things the same as when they to the mature work of the influ14 Feb, 21.00, €12.50 departed. In Hell, Greco and ential and highly praised EnScholten delve deeper into the THEATRE: IN ONGENADE glish composer Henry Purcell. layers of dance, they explore DANCE: O SNAP In the first Purcell Gala in the Toneelgroep Amsterdam the components of different Choreographer Erik Kaiel has Concertgebouw in 2009, Barokpresents an adaptation of directions in dance and look at been creating dance perforopera Amsterdam emphasised Disgrace, the critically achow they are read and decoded. mances for theatres and on the young Purcell, guiding the claimed novel by South African It is a search for ways to extend location – in metro stations, audience through 17th-century writer John M Coetzee. A the boundaries of our physical empty swimming pools and on London, from the chapel to the 52-year-old poetry teacher identity, ways to unleash the (Gijs Scholten van Aschat) and unpredictable body. his daughter are attacked by a Stadsschouwburg, Mon 18 Feb, black gang. The aftermath of 20.00, €15-€30 the tragedy shows how father DANCE: YOU PARA | DISO and daughter each experience a different South African life – he You PARA | DISO is the final is still a part of the old society, part of a dance tetraptych that is her the new. In Dutch with inspired by Dante Alighieri’s La English surtitles. Divina Commedia. This creation Stadsschouwburg, Thur 14 Feb, of Emio Greco and Pieter Schol20.00, €24.50-€33.50 ten follows the successful pieces Hell (2006 – see above) and the MUSICAL THEATRE: recently presented diptych [purPETER PAN – THE NEVERgatorio] POPOPERA and [purENDING STORY gatorio] IN VISIONE (2008). Peter Pan is the classic story In this performance, Greco and of a boy who refuses to grow Scholten break away from the up. In this grand performance usual assumptions about the of the story, the audience is hereafter. They set out with open put right in the middle of the eyes to look for the answer to action as the spectacle – music, the question: What is paradise? visual magic and special effects When we separate paradise from – unfold all around the arena. all those prejudices, it turns out Besides the main cast, an inter- that this is not a simple question THEATRE: AFTER THE REHEARSAL / PERSONA national group of stuntmen and to answer. What should we Ivo van Hove, the Belgian director of Toneelgroep Am-women, acrobats, dancers and expect from something we value sterdam, directs two works by the late Swedish playwright magicians will play the pirates so highly? Ingmar Bergman: After the Rehearsal (1984) and Persona and all the other fantastical Stadsschouwburg, Tue 19 Feb, (1966). Both scripts walk the thin line between imagination characters, wowing young and 20.00, €12.50-€30 and reality, illness and normality; both explore the meaning old alike. OPERA: OWEN Ziggo Dome, Thur 14-Sun 17 of art in our lives and in society. As always, Ingmar BergWINGRAVE Feb, various times, €39-€69 man does this with great personal intensity and humanity, Opera Trionfo and the Nieuw creating uncompromising and compassionate works. In DANCE: NUTCRASHER Ensemble join forces for the first Dutch with English surtitles. In this update of Tchaikovsky’s theatrical performance of Stadsschouwburg, Thur 7 Feb, 20.00, €37-€46 masterpiece The Nutcracker, De Benjamin Britten’s Owen KISS Moves will remix the origi- Wingrave in the Netherlands. nal music, adding contemporary Britten used this tale of a young the streets – for 20 years. After theatre by way of the pub and beats with the help of a sound man who rebels against a mililiving in New York for a decade, the boarding school where Dido designer. The central theme of tary lifestyle as a public statehe moved to the Netherlands in was performed. Now it’s time to NutCrasher is beauty: what does ment of his deeply-held pacifist 2003. His latest work, O Snap, present the mature Purcell: on beauty mean in our modern beliefs, embracing a rich sonic deals with finding an identity in the one hand the highly respecculture? Do the old rules still palette that reaches from avanta world filled with excesses. ted court musician; on the other apply or have we reached new garde to Balinese gamelan. Melkweg Theater, Tue 29 Jan, hand, the inspired composer for insights? De KISS Moves reMuziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Wed 21.00, €7.50-€12.50 the theatre. interpret the classic masterpiece 20 Feb, 20.00, €29.50 Meervart, Sun 10 Feb, 14.30, into a thrilling performance in THEATRE: THE TAMING OF €20-€25 which old-fashioned ideas about THE SHREW ADDRESSES beauty will be translated into DANCE: WHERE ARE WE Performed by Toneelgroep Amthe modern era. Frascati GOING? AND WHAT ARE WE sterdam, Ivo van Hove directs Meervaart, Sat 16 Feb, 20.30, Nes 63, DOING? this contemporary portrayal of €4.45-€8.91 www.theaterfrascati.nl Shakespeare’s comedy about This multimedia performance, Heineken Music Hall MUSICAL THEATRE: the courtship of Petruchio, a combining contemporary ArenA Boulevard 590, ABBA – THE SHOW gentleman from Verona, and dance, music and light www.heineken-music-hall.nl Katherina, the headstrong installations, will honour the Calling all Dancing Queens, Meervaart ‘shrew’. In Dutch with English 100th anniversary of the birth young and old! After all these Meer en Vaart 300, surtitles. of the iconic composer John years, ABBA is still the most www.meervaart.nl Stadsschouwburg, Thur 31 Cage. The Brazilian dancer successful pop band in music Melkweg Jan, 20.30, €10-€33.50 Ederson R Xavier and the history. Even now, the Swedish Lijnbaansgracht 234a, Chinese pianist Shuann Chai idols still have millions of fans www.melkweg.nl MIME: SMALL WORLD have put together a multimedia all around the globe and they’re Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ A moving, fresh, provocative performance with the help of still relevant thanks to their Piet Heinkade 1, piece that documents strugdancers from different dance timeless songs. This spectacular www.muziekgebouw.nl gles with the world of today. academies and with the profes- tribute draws on the combined Royal Theater Carré Suzan Boogaerdt and Bianca sional musicians from the Cage powers of a fantastic light show, Amstel 115-125, van der Schoot dare to ask the Ensemble. fabulous sets and virtuoso www.carre.nl difficult questions, including: Theater Bellevue, Mon 11 Feb, musicianship, guaranteeing a Stadsschouwburg Is reality too complex to tell 20.30, €13.50-€16 spectacular tribute. Leidseplein 26, www.stads stories about? Is the world Heineken Music Hall, Sun 17 schouwburgamsterdam.nl DANCE: JUXTAPOSE becoming one giant amusement Feb, 20.00, €42.90-€53.90 Theater Bellevue park? Or are we just bit players, Juxtapose is a performance Leidsekade 90, DANCE: HELL wandering around in an endless that combines text and motion www.theaterbellevue.nl virtual reality TV show? Small to comment on our society, in For the first time since Rimasto Ziggo Dome World promises to be a dark ride which a woman has to manoeu- Orfano, choreographers Emio De Passage 100, through the underbelly of pervre between being intensely Greco and Pieter Scholten focus www.ziggodome.nl

formance, featuring interactive entertainment. Frascati, Tue 5-Sat 9 Feb, various times, €13.50-€17

Highlight theatre

Jan Versweyveld

theatre & dance

part IV The A-list

comedy

Kids & family

Dr Sketchy’s weekly improvised chuckle AMSTERDAM fest moves from Saturdays to Wednesdays in 2013, expanding Okay, it’s not strictly comedy, BRANDED FOR LIFE to two acts for double the sponbut we imagine there will be Boom Chicago’s riotous comedy some smothered laughter and taneous hilarity. Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago show focuses on the choices we the end results will probably cast take to the stage, so the make and why, delving into why be pretty amusing. A saucy laughs are guaranteed to keep we love some things but mock live burlesque performance is others. Branded for Life takes followed by a racy take on a life on comin’. Completely different a hilarious look at how brands drawing class, for all skill levels. each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. dominate our lives while Bring your own supplies. Boom Chicago, Wed 23, 30 shining the light on those who Club 8, Sat 19 Jan (drsketchy Jan; 7, 14, 21 & 28 Feb, 20.00, shape our opinions: modernamsterdam.nl). 18.00-21.00, €22 day Mad Men, marketers and €15 spin doctors who work behind EASYLAUGHS Bambi (17): De Samoeria the scenes to pull our strings. The international comedy The evening begins with Chuckle-tastic mime pergroup performs a hilarious, high-octane, completely improvised show at the recently renovated Crea Café every Friday night. There’s also an early-bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats and open podiums. Crea Café, every Fri, 20.00 & 21.00, €10

Comedy

Highlight comedy

GREG SHAPIRO PRESENTS STEVE HUGHES Everyone’s favourite ‘American Nederlander’ Greg Shapiro is back on tour and this time around, he’s got British company! Australian expat Steve Hughes has gained the admiration of audiences with his cutting social commentary and hilarious observations, with numerous successful Edinburgh Festival and BBC appearances to his name. Perhaps unsurprisingly given his head-banger look and drum-playing past, his current show is called ‘Heavy Metal Comedy’. Meervaart, Sun 20 Jan, 20.30, €16

COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL: JAMIE KILSTEIN Famous for their sensational stand-up comedy performances and sell-out summer festival, Comedytrain International flies in Jamie Kilstein from across the pond for a healthy dose of razor-sharp, sociallyconscious giggles. The young American is a rising star on the stand-up comedy circuit, and his brand of political satire has already taken him to Scotland, England, Australia, Ireland, Estonia, Lithuania, Latvia and now to the Netherlands. He’s been described as a cross between Bill Hicks and George Carlin, and besides his standup comedy shows, he has his own online radio station called Citizen Radio. Toomler, 17 Feb, 20.30, €12.50

DA BOUNCE COMEDY formance, in which bravery, NIGHT honour and morality are central A spectacular show from the to the hilarious, wordless quest Amsterdam comedy sensations, of four actors in search of the featuring the best stand-up samurai within themselves. We are promised sword fights and comedians from the USA. You’ll know them from Def Comedy that typical samurai pastime, Jam, P-Diddy's Bad Boys of flower arranging. Frascati, Tue 22-Thur 31 Jan, Comedy, Comedy Central, MTV Comedy Hour and many more. 20.30, €13.50/€17 Meervart, Sat 23 Feb, 20.15, IMPRO AMSTERDAM €17.27 CAN’T DUTCH THIS During the 18th edition of the The Boom Chicago funnyonly international improv festiAddresses men (and women) relive val in the Netherlands, for five Boom Chicago the greatest moments of the consecutive days world-class Leidseplein 12 (until 28 Jan) comedy troupe’s history for improv actors will display their Rozentheater, Rozengracht 117 your comedy pleasure. In Can’t talents. During the festival, (after 28 Jan) Dutch This, Boom Chicago there will be headlining shows, www.boomchicago.nl kick it old/school with their late-night performances, workClub 8 personal favourites − the best shops, improv talks, an open Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b scenes from past performances stage and an after-party to top www.club-8.nl are combined with brand new it all off. This year, the festival Compagnietheater improv material to make for a welcomes guests from Israel, Kloveniersburgwal 50, truly entertaining compilation Australia, the US and Belgium www.compagnietheater.nl of hilariousness. The American who’ve travelled to Amsterdam Crea Café comedy troupe certainly have especially to take part. Nieuwe Achtergracht 170, a rich history to draw on. Compagnietheater, Tue 22-Sat www.crea.uva.nl The crew have been active in 26 Jan, various times and Frascati Amsterdam for nearly 20 years, prices Nes 63 making their home base at the SHOT OF IMPROV / www.theaterfrascati.nl historic Leidseplein theatre the STUDENT WEDNESDAY Meervart city’s premier English-language Meer en Vaart 300, comedy venue. At least until Every Wednesday night at www.meervaart.nl February, when they move to Boom Chicago, four students Toomler the Rozentheater… get in for the price of one ticket Breitnerstraat 2, Boom Chicago, Fri 18 & 25 for the fully improvised Shot www.toomler.nl Jan, 21.00, €22 of Improv comedy shows. This ‘BrandLab’, which sees Boom Chicago’s brand scientists rebrand guests in their very own personal commercial. This is followed by the main event: a multimedia improvisation and sketch show that will undoubtedly leave you branded for life. Boom Chicago, Fri 18 & 25 Jan, 20.00, €25

type of soft toy imaginable, you’ll find baby and children’s clothes, books, furniture, AMSTELPARK PLAYGROUND wooden toys, puzzles, games, & PETTING ZOO puppets and more – all featuring animals. Amstelpark makes for a fun and Staalstraat 26, www.beesten fresh-air-filled family day out. winkel.nl. Open Mon, Sun There is a very large playground, 12.00-18.00; Tue-Sat 10.00flower gardens and a charming 18.00 petting zoo – although it’s not uncommon to see chickens and IMAGINE rabbits throughout the entire A delightful and creative park. children’s shop located in Europaboulevard 1 Amsterdam-Zuid. Spread over AMSTERDAM DUNGEON two floors, you’ll find a variety of clothing, gifts and toys for The Amsterdam Dungeon newborns, toddlers and young brings 500 years of dark hischildren. The shop stocks tory to life with 11 shows, unique, imaginative and wellseven actors and one terrifying made items that you won’t find experience! Can you survive in your average chain store. the horrific plague during the They also offer affordable hair80-minute tour? Make sure cuts for kids four days a week. you don’t get tortured by the Amstelveenseweg 131, www. executioner from the Spanish imagine.biz. Open Mon 13.00Inquisition or get lost in the 18.00; Tue-Fri 10.00-18.00; mirror labyrinth… Sat 10.00-17.00 Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 11.00-17.00, JAAP EDEN €21, ages 5-17 €12.50 ICE-SKATING RINK AMSTERDAMSE BOS Amsterdam’s largest and best(AMSTERDAM FOREST) known ice skating centre, with a 400-metre outdoor rink (open Located on the edge of the October to April), an indoor city, the Amsterdamse Bos is rink and a beginner’s corner. Amsterdam’s largest park and Facilities include a restaurant, recreational area. The lush forests and grassy meadows of- showers and lockers. Don’t miss fer plenty of space, and the park the disco skating every Saturday evening. is crossed by many kilometres Radioweg 64, www.jaapeden. of well-marked walking and nl. Various times & prices cycling paths. You’ll find a goat farm (with a petting zoo) that KINDERKOOKKAFÉ makes delicious homemade The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a fun ice-cream and cheese on site, a and unique restaurant located botanical garden and a rowing near the Vondelpark. Here lake. Bicycle, canoe, kayak and children (ages five to 12) do pedal boat rental are available. absolutely everything to help www.amsterdamsebos.nl run the restaurant, including ANNE FRANK HOUSE cooking, serving, bartending, tidying up and running the cash This is the hiding place where register. Anne Frank wrote her diary Vondelpark 6b, www.kinder during World War II. For more than two years, she lived secretly kookkafe.nl. Open daily 10.0017.00, various prices in the back part of her father’s office building. Quotations from KLANKSPEELTUIN the diary, photographs, films (SOUND GARDEN) and original objects – including The Klankspeeltuin is unlike Anne’s diary – all serve to any other playground. Children illustrate the events which between the ages of seven and occurred here. Suitable for 12 learn how to compose their children over ten. very own music using special Prinsengracht 267, www.anne machines, sound installations frank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sun and computers during this in09.00-19.00; Sat 09.00-21.00, teractive workshop. Parents and €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 caretakers are not present during ARTIS ROYAL ZOO the workshop, but get to hear the compositions at the end. The first zoo to be established Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet in the Netherlands celebrates Heinkade 1, www.muziek its 175-year anniversary in 2013. gebouw.nl. Wed & Sun, 15.00Admire the tropical fish in the 16.30, €8.50 Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See MADAME TUSSAUDS the giraffes galloping amongst AMSTERDAM the zebras, springboks, oryx and Step into the amazing world of wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering but- Madame Tussauds. The collecterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion tion of wax figures includes the or stroll through the historical gorgeous Brad Pitt, the outragepark with its centuries-old trees ous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Pose for photos with and a multitude of plants. the likes of David Beckham or Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, Princess Máxima and take a seat www.artis.nl. Open daily on Queen Beatrix’s throne. 09.00-17.00, €18.95, ages 3-9 Dam 20, www.madame €15.50 tussauds.nl. Open daily 10.00BEESTENWINKEL 18.30, €22, ages 5-15 €17 (ANIMAL SHOP) MIRANDABAD The Beestenwinkel sells anySWIMMING POOL thing and everything that has to Subtropical swimming pool do with animals. Besides every

Attractions

jan & feb 2013

FOCUS complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor and outdoor pools and wave machines. Other amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant. De Mirandalaan 9, www. mirandabad.nl. Various times & prices MUSEUMPLEIN ICE-SKATING RINK With 1,360 square metres of ice, the ice-skating rink on the Museumplein is the perfect winter outing with friends and family of all ages. After

just outside the museum, the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam is a hit with visitors of all ages. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00, €15, ages 5-17 €7.50

tropenmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00, various prices

TUNFUN Perfect for those rainy days, TunFun is an indoor paradise for children under 12. Under adult supervision, kids can SCIENCE CENTER NEMO enjoy hours of active, creative NEMO introduces young and and adventurous fun in a huge old to the world of science and 4,000m2 indoor playground. technology. Five floors are filled There’s something for every age with continuously updated and interest: from soft slides exhibitions, theatre perforand mini ball pool for babies mances, films, workshops and and infants to trampolines and demonstrations. Smell, hear, feel jungle gyms for the older kids, plus crafting and painting for budding Van Goghs. Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun. nl. Open daily 10.00-18.00, ages 1-12 €8.50, adults free

Highlight kids

gitte clemens

WINKEL VAN NIJNTJE Known elsewhere as Miffy, little Nijntje is Holland’s most beloved bunny. At the Winkel van Nijntje you’ll find everything for your baby or toddler decked out with this adorable rabbit, including books, toys, clothes, bags and even linens for the nursery. Scheldestraat 61, www.dewin kelvannijntje.nl. Open Mon 13.00-18.00; Tue-Fri 10.0018.00; Sat 10.00-17.00

THE AMAZING JOURNEY OF DR FAUST A musical puppet rendition of the age-old tale of the scholar who ‘knew too much and yet never enough’. The story of Doctor Faust and his quest for ultimate knowledge is far older than Goethe’s or even Marlowe’s famous versions. It was often performed in puppet theatres in the Middle Ages, and the Amsterdam Marionette Theatre continues the tradition with this magical and humorous yet philosophical adaptation. Suitable for children aged ten and above. Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, www.marionettentheater.nl. 20 & 27 Jan; 9 & 24 Feb, various times, €16, under-14s €7.50 skating a few laps, warm up with a drink or snack at the winter terrace next to the ice rink. You’ll find typical Dutch treats like hot chocolate with whipped cream, stamppot and homemade poffertjes. Museumplein, www.iceamster dam.nl. Open daily 10.0020.00 until 14 Feb, €2

and see how the world works. Everything is interactive, so you can play along. Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00, €13.50

Events WHAT DOES A VIOLIN SOUND LIKE? Four talented string-playing ladies from the Ragazze Quartet perform everything from classical music to contemporary compositions at this family performance. Suitable for children over six. Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10, www.concert gebouw.nl. Sat 26 & Sun 27 Jan, 13.30 & 15.30, €13.50

PETER PAN – THE NEVER-ENDING STORY Peter Pan is the classic story of a boy who refuses to grow up. In this grand performance of the story, the audience is put right TINKERBELL TOYS in the middle of the action as Tinkerbell stocks an excellent the spectacle – music, visual maselection of toys and gifts for gic and special effects – unfold babies and children under nine. all around the arena. Besides PANCAKE BOAT This is the perfect place to find a the main cast, an international A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat chemistry set or bug-collecting group of stuntmen and -women, pancakes and a view of kit as well as classic favourites acrobats, dancers and magicians Amsterdam’s canals make the like wooden blocks and toy will play the pirates and all the Pancake Boat a great actitrains. other fantastical characters, vity for all ages. Choose from a Spiegelgracht 10, www.tinker wowing young and old alike. number of cruises every week, belltoys.nl. Open Mon 13.00Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100, and for a set price everyone can 18.00; Tue-Sat 10.00-18.00; www.ziggodome.nl. Thur eat as many pancakes as they Sun 12.00-17.00 14-Sun 17 Feb, various times, like with a wide variety of tasty €39-€69 TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR toppings. WHAT DOES JAZZ Ms van Riemsdijkweg t/o 38, Located in a majestic building SOUND LIKE? www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. on the edge of the Oosterpark, Various times & prices Tropenmuseum Junior was creToon goes on a journey in ated especially for children from which he and his audience of HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM ages six to 13 and is focused young music-lovers will learn (NATIONAL MARITIME on non-Western cultures. The all about jazz in the ConcertgeMUSEUM) interactive exhibits introduce bouw. When it gets dark, music Het Scheepvaartmuseum has a children to new cultures in a comes to life. The curious Toon variety of exhibitions designed playful way that sparks their discovers a dancing double bass, just for kids. Sal & Lori and the curiosity. In 2012, the Tropen- a giant clarinet and much, much Circus at Sea is an underwamuseum Junior received the more. Suitable for children ter fairy tale for the youngest Children’s Museum Award, over six. visitors, while older children recognising it one of the best Concertgebouw, Concertgewill enjoy The Tale of the Whale children’s museums in bouwplein 10, www.concert or multimedia adventure See the world. gebouw.nl, Sat 16 & Sun 17 You in the Golden Age. Moored Linnaeusstraat 2, www. Feb, 13.30 & 15.30, €13.50

175 years of Artis A PARK IN BLOOM

n 2013, Artis Royal Zoo is 175 years old. Back in 1838 construction began on a city park with resident animals; when you stroll through the zoo’s pleasant grounds today you walk past some of the same trees, plants and shrubs the founders planted nearly two centuries ago. Today, Artis has become the green heart of Amsterdam, an oasis of peace and nature in the middle of the city enjoyed by millions of visitors each year. For the whole of Artis‘s milestone year, it will be ablaze with the most colourful and fragrant Dutch flowers – 176,875 of them in total, as well as 36,000 plants and two special wishing trees. In the spring you can wander amongst the tens of thousands of crocuses, winter aconite, grape hyacinths and large groups of wild ornamental plants. Enjoy flower beds overflowing with daffodils, fritillaries and crown imperials. Or tiptoe amongst the more than 80 species of tulips – including the unique Artis variety, cultivated especially for the anniversary.

Anniversary events Anniversary Tour Discover the history of the zoo. Every Saturday & Sunday, departs Ape Rock 11.00

Petting Zoo Get up close and personal with small animals. Every Sunday, Classroom Stolp, 13.30-14.15 & 14.45-15.30 Spring in Artis Different activities every day, including an exhibition of iconic images, old and new; cartoon flipbook classes for kids; and much more. 16-24 February Architecture Tour Learn about the zoo’s architecture. Every Saturday & Sunday in March & April, departs Ape Rock 12.00

Kids’ Programme Over four Saturdays, children learn all about life at the zoo. Saturdays 2, 9, 16 & 24 March, 10.0014.00, €160.

Stargazing An evening programme including starclock workshops, design-your-own-planet classes and, of course, stargazing.Saturday 16 March, from 19.00 Easter in Artis Easter-egg hunts, brunch, chick cuddling and more. 29 March-1 April Artis in Wartime Discover the temporary shelters that kept the animals safe. Saturday 4 & Sunday 5 May, Ape Rock, 16.00

Ascension Day Help make a celebratory chalk pavement drawing. Thursday 9 May, all day Mothers’ Day Take the free tour of the various mothers of Artis. Sunday 12 May, Ape Rock, 12.00 Artis Royal Zoo, Plantage Kerklaan 38-40 www.artis.nl

part IV The A-list

festivals & events IN FOCUS: DARIO ARGENTO Throughout January, multidisciplinary arts centre the Melkweg screens six of the best films from the oeuvre of Italian horror grandmaster Dario Argento in a specially curated programme. Praised by film critics as ‘the Italian answer to Hitchcock’, Argento’s name has become synonymous with the giallo genre: think stylised, violent and the over-the-top horror-thrillers. Melkweg Cinema, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, www.melkweg. nl. Until 30 Jan, various times and prices REALISME 13 Thirty-four renowned galleries from the Netherlands and abroad present (and sell) works by Dutch artists, as well as those from around the globe, who work in various mediums within the figurative and realistic genres. With lofty claims to being the only art fair dedicated solely to figurative art, Realisme 13 showcases established artists with a respectable oeuvre as well as young up-and-comers breathing new life into the genre. Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Piet Heinkade, www. realismeamsterdam.com. Thur 17-Sun 20 Jan, 11.0019.00, €12

Broodfabriek, Volmerlaan 12 (modelspoordagen.nl). Sat 19 & Sun 20 Jan, 10.00-17.00, €9, ages 7-13 €3, under-7s free THE BIG BACH DAY The popularity of the first two Bach Days have made this third edition inevitable. Besides performances by talented musicians of Bach’s suites for cello and sonatas for viola da gamba, four-handed Bachadaptations for the fortepiano and three wonderful cantatas by the master composer, the audience is invited to sing his

Shortcutz Amsterdam This new celebration of the short-film genre has editions across Europe. Celebrating local filmmakers, movies made within the last year that are shorter than 15 minutes and have a Dutch connection are eligible to compete for the audience vote, with the eventual overall winners touring the entire Shortcutz network and winning a €5,000 grant towards the production of a feature film. Canvas, Wibaustraat 150, www. facebook.com/shortcutz amster dam. Every Wed, 20.00, free

Highlight festivals

belen mayer/ eric chenal

FESTIVALS

FLAMENCO BIËNNALE Showcase of the richness and global impact of the flamenco tradition, interspersed with contemporary dance performances, film screenings and intimate song recitals, inspired by the theme Idas y Vueltas (‘round trips’), the rhythms, songs and dances that travelled to and from Spain and its former colonies in South America. Two very special artists headline: dancer, choreographer and pioneer Israel Galvan and Carmen Linares, the grande dame of flamenco singers. Various locations, www.flamencobiennale.nl. Mon 21 JanSun 3 Feb, various times and prices

AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEKend The DOWNTOWN arm of Amsterdam’s biannual fash-pack fest is bolstered this year by the first ever Fashion Weekend, taking place on the streets around the ‘Fashion & Museum District’ – Beethovenstraat, Cornelis Schuytstraat, Van Baerlestraat and PC Hooftstraat. music during the performance On the weekend of 19 and 20 of one of Bach’s motets, led by January, more than 60 stylish Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra’s events will take place in the Ton Koopman. ’hood, including pop-up stores, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet exhibitions, fashion shows and Hienkade 1, www.muziekge themed walking tours. Don’t bouw.nl. Sun 20 Jan, various forget your credit cards! times, various prices Various locations, www. DARING DESIGNERS amsterdamfashionweek.com. Fri 18 Jan-Sun 27 Jan, various A discussion of the precaritimes, free ous combination of creation and commerce. How can you NATIONAL TULIP DAY make spectacular, extraordiIt’s as synonymous with the nary, innovative garments while Netherlands as windmills and simultaneously becoming a cheese, but while the tulip (financially) successful fashion remains one of Amsterdam’s entrepreneur? It’s one tough most notable icons, few visitors cookie to crack – but a great get to experience the flower topic to highlight during Amthis early in the year – apart sterdam Fashion Week. from at the Flower Market. Pakhuis de Zwijger, Piet HeinBut National Tulip Day should kade 179, www.dezwijger.nl. bring some much-needed colour Tue 22 Jan, 16.00, free (RSVP) to a cold January weekend, SUSTAINABLE STORIES with visitors invited to a huge temporary tulip garden on Dam Former Hugo by Hugo Boss square where they can pick their creative director and awardown blooms. winning designer Bruno Pieters Dam square, Sat 19 Jan, 13.30, shares the inspiring story of free his new revolutionary ethical fashion label Honest By, the Dutch Model Railway world’s first 100 per cent transDays parent online clothes company. Now in its 18th edition, this twoPakhuis de Zwijger, Piet day fair is dedicated to all things Heinkade 179, www.dezwijger. model railway. We expect to see nl. Wed 23 Jan, 13.00, free a fair amount of anoraks. (RSVP)

RECORD FAIR AMSTERDAM One of the biggest record fair events in the Netherlands, fans, professionals and DJs travel from far and wide to search for new musical wares. Whether you’re a professional collector, a bargain hunter or just a music fan looking for new inspiration, hundreds of vendors will be selling CDs, vinyl and rare, collectible merchandise. Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, www.recordplanet.nl. Sat 26 Jan, 10.00, €7 IGNITE AMSTERDAM Ignite is a fast-paced and merciless information-sharing event. Speakers get five minutes to present, making use of 20 slides that auto-advance every 15 seconds. All presentations are given in English. Mediamatic Fabriek, VOC– kade 10, www.mediamatic.net. Wed 30 Jan; 27 Feb, 20.00, €2 THE SOURCE PRESENTS The Source Presents, in association with FinchFactor, returns to Amsterdam to showcase the very best short films, pop promos and advertising content from their popular London screenings. It combines work from signed and unsigned directors from around the world, as

well as extra presentations from homewares to Dutch houseindustry guests. wives, the modern-day version Pakhuis de Zwijger, Piet of the Homemakers’ Fair has Heinkade 179, www.dezwijger. thankfully diversified beyond vanl. Thur 31 Jan, 19.00, free cuum cleaners and kitchen aids. (RSVP) These days, fashion, beauty, food and drink and entertainment all ART BASEMENT play leading roles at this huge On 2 February, Coffeemania, event, with international lifein the West of Amsterdam, will style brands plying their wares. host a showcase festival that Still, we don’t expect there’ll be gives young creative minds a many men there. stage to share their talents with Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, an appreciative audience and www.huishoudbeurs.nl. Sat one another. The purpose of the 16-Sun 24 Feb, various times Art Basement festival is for and prices different forms of art to meet POP ARTS FESTIVAL and connect, giving the audience a chance to experiContrary to what you may ence the cultural scene amongst expect, the annual Pop Arts Fesyoung creative minds in tival presents the latest developAmsterdam. ments in the world of internatiCoffeemania, Ottho Heldrings- onal puppet and object theatre, traat 3, www.facebook/ArtBadance and mime – without an sementAmsterdam. Sat 2 Feb, indie band in sight. More than 16.00, price €7.50 20 performances, showcases and workshops by groups from INDIE BRANDS Belgium, Germany and France The Indie Brands event delves take place in the three festival into the world of independent locations (Theater Bellevue, De brands with inspirational Krakeling and Ostadetheater), lectures, awe-inspiring entre- staging grotesque puppet shows, preneurs and visual eye candy bizarre animations and chalfrom different independent lenging miniatures. companies. During the evening, Various locations, various indie brands from www.popartsfestival.nl. Tue different disciplines will come 19-Tue 26 Feb, various times together to share ideas and and prices experiences. NINE MONTHS FAIR Pakhuis de Zwijger, Piet Heinkade 179, www.dezwijger. For five days, Amsterdam’s canl. Wed 6 Feb, 13.00, €17.50 vernous convention centre will be transformed into a paradise CHINESE NEW YEAR for (prospective) parents. For In 2013, Chinese New Year falls years, the Nine Months Fair on 10 February but is celebrated (Negenmaandenbeurs) has the day before. While it may still been welcoming parents from be a bit chilly outside, there’ll all walks of life as they look for be plenty of partying to warm baby-related inspiration, from things up. Festivities traditionalnursery decorating ideas to ly take place around the historic baby clothes and gadgets. Nieuwmarkt neighbourhood: Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, think parades, fireworks and hot www.negenmaandenbeurs.nl. and tasty Asian foods. Wed 20-Sun 24 Feb, various Various locations, Sat 9 Feb, times and prices various times, free HELEMAAL MELKWEG CYCLING AND WALKING This recurring event takes place FAIR four times a year and does Learn everything you need to exactly as the name suggests, know about active vacations throwing open the whole of and events in the Netherlands former dairy factory Melkweg and beyond. If you’re a keen for an evening of music and cyclist or hiker, the Cycling and performance action (helemaal Walking Fair isn’t just a great means ‘whole’). Special guests place to collect information, but for this edition include Budos also to try out (or buy) new gear Band (a lively instrumental and activities. New York salsa/Afropop/soul Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, ensemble) and Congolese rapwww.fietsvak.nl. Sat 9 & Sun per Baloji. 10 Feb, 10.00-17.00, €9 Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, www.melkweg.nl. Sat 23 FOLK FUSION FESTIVAL Feb, 19.00, €10 The Folk Fusion Festival has DIRTY DUTCH performed a massive coup, AFTERSHOCK bringing in two legendary performers from the underground: The internationally acclaimed Patrik Fitzgerald has been dance music phenomenon relauded in some circles as the turns to its roots in Amsterdam. new Bob Dylan, and witnessed After a successful edition in the the rise and fall of the punk Ziggo Dome, Dirty Dutch Afmovement in the late ’70s. tershock returns to the Bijlmer Attila the Stockbroker, meanBoulevard for another night of while, actually worked briefly as debauchery and heavy dance a stockbroker before becoming tunes. The line-up includes local a poet and musician. and international names – inParadiso, Weteringschans 6-8, cluding Gregori Klosman, who www.paradiso.nl. Tue 12 Feb, famously remixed Lady Gaga’s 20.00, €8 ‘Americano’. Heineken Music Hall, HOMEMAKERS’ FAIR ArenA Boulevard 590, www. Having sprung into life in 1950 heineken-music-hall.nl. Sat 23 as an opportunity to sell various Feb, 22.00, €49.50

jan & feb 2013

gay & lesbian EVENING Every Thursday, enjoy a mouthwatering cocktail at drag show Garbo For Women bar Lellebel on the corner of Single ladies strut their stuff at Rembrabdtplein. Relax in this regular ladies-only meet-up. the pleasant company of your Strand West, Sat 19 Jan 15.00, hostesses Miss Saphira, Electra €8 Shock, May Buttercream and Ginger G-Spot. Get a taste of LGBTQ Oosterparkbuurt Sugi’s Mojito, May’s Mango or Low-key neighbourhood drinks Electra’s Sunrise… in the east of the city. Lellebel, Thur 24, 31 Jan; 7, 14, Eden Amsterdam Manor 21 & 28 Feb, 20.00 Hotel, Sat 19, 21.00, free THE PONY CLUB IT’S SHOWTIME FOLKS If you want to quit horsing It certainly is show time every around and get serious about Saturday at the Lellebel, the starting the weekend on Thursmost outrageous drag show bar day (and who doesn’t?), you in town. The most glamorous couldn’t ask for a better place stars come together for a super- than The Pony Club in the latest nova of campy cabaret fun. addition to Gay Street, Club Lellebel, Sat 19, 26 Jan, 2, 9, 16 NYX. Three floors of DJs spin & 23 Feb, 20.00 an energetic mix of pop, disco, house and electro alongside DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR performances to lift your spirits. Get the drinks in at Taboo’s Arrive before midnight and get Double Happy Hour every Sunin for free. day! Taboo doesn’t serve boring Club NYX, Thur 24, 31 Jan; 7, old beer or wimpy wines though, 14, 21 & 28 Feb, 23.00, €5 so line up for fabulous cocktails THANK GOD IT’S FRIDAY and sumptuous shots. Taboo, Sun 20 & 27 Jan; 3, 10, Celebrate the weekend with 17 & 24 Feb, 18.00 tunes, nibbles and drinks at Thank God It’s Friday. After a SUNDAY CAROUSEL week of hard work, unwind with Be transported to exotic climes a drink, some snacks and some with Arabian and Turkish music tunes by the resident DJ. courtesy of old and new divas Engel van Amsterdam, Fri 25 from Lellebel, with Miss Rini Jan; 1, 8, 15 & 22 Feb, 17.00, leading the charge. At midnight, free DJs Laurens and Eelco will play THANK GODDESS, exotic music from 1001 IT’S FRIDAY (K)NIGHTS. Lellebel, Sun 20 & 27 Jan; 3, Welcome the weekend with 10, 17 & 24 Feb, 22.00 live performances and an open stage. Start the weekend ZONDERBROEK celebrations with your hostess Every Friday and Sunday night Miss Sugi La Ri accompanied and every first Saturday of the by stars such as Ginger G-Spot, month, drop all your pretences May Buttercream, Electra and dance without pants at Club Shock and more. And if you Church in Amsterdam. The want to become a star yourself, dress code is strictly enforced: the open stage is there for you briefs and jocks are welcome; to shine. swimming trunks, boxers, sports Lellebel, Fri 25 Jan; 1, 8, 15 & shorts or going commando are 22 Feb, 20.00 also permitted. Board shorts, NYXTYRIA Bermudas or other street wear are prohibited! With DJs Rado, Every fourth Friday of the Max Principe and guests. month is NYXTYRIA time Church, 20, 25, 27 Jan; 1, 2, at Club NYX, with three DJs 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22 & 24 Feb, playing three different styles of various times, €10 music across all three floors. The staple is ’90s music, while the NAKED SWIMMING vibe in the other two rooms will The Marnixbad has two pools, change with each edition. It’s both are on the same level as the like clubbing roulette… Singel canal. While you’re swim- Club NYX, Fri 25 Jan; 22 Feb, ming, you can look outside and 23.00, €10 feel as if you’re swimming out in LADZ the open between the boats and the ducks. Both pools are equip- Ladz is the men-only gay dance ped with the most up-to-date party for lads, scallies, skaters, gadgets and the water contains gabbers, sneaker- and sportsmuch less chloride than most wear boys. There’s a strict dress pools do. code: sneakers are a must, full Marnixbad, Tue 22 & 29 sportswear and tracksuits are Jan; 5, 12, 19 & 26 Feb, 21.00, encouraged – as is sports clothes various prices such as football kits, swimming costumes, boxing gear and TUESDAY BLUESDAY cycling Lycra. Sameplace café hosts a club Church, Sat 26 Jan, 22.00, €10 night with a special focus on PINK BUTTERFLY PINK blues, soul and contemporary EDITION music. While there’s no entrance fee, you are asked to spend Pink Butterfly is an initiative by at least €10 at the bar when two young female entrepreyou’re a single man, or the same neurs looking to enrich the amount if you’re a couple. gay nightlife scene with stylish Same Place, Tue 22 & 29 Jan; events catering for women. 5, 12, 19 & 26 Feb, 21.00 Pink Edition is their first foray DRINK & COCKTAIL into the party scene, and it

LGBT

promises to be a good one: included are a two-hour cruise, delicious cupcakes and complementary pink cocktails and snacks during the party. The dress code is pink and white, and the DJs are Fajah Lourens, Kimberlee Ramirez and Miss Smile & No Sugar. Pure Liner, Sat 26 Jan, 23.00, €65 EROTIC CHILL-OUT PARTY Erotic party for couples, ladies, transvestites and a select group of single men. If you wish to attend, make sure that you visit

Since its launch in early 2008, Bear Necessity has expanded to host regular parties in London and Antwerp, and also makes visits to Cologne, Barcelona and Madrid. Featuring DJs Rado, David Hernandez and BravoGuy plus Matahari and his Laser Show. Odeon, Sat 2 Feb, 23.00, €15 SPELLBOUND This gay underground dance party has been based in the legalised squat OCCII for years. Expect a mix of techno, house, wave, dub and electro, as well as

Highlight gay

years, ABBA is still the most successful pop band in music history. Even now, the Swedish idols still have millions of fans all around the globe and they’re still relevant thanks to their timeless songs. This spectacular tribute draws on the combined powers of a fantastic light show, fabulous sets and virtuoso musicianship, guaranteeing a spectacular tribute. Heineken Music Hall, Sun 17 Feb, 20.00, €42.90-€53.90 JUST This bi-monthly party welcomes everyone, whether straight, gay, lesbian or bi-curious, and in contrast to a lot of other parties, Just has no dress code. All genders and sexual preferences are welcome, so come as you are. Church, Mon 18 Feb, 22.00, €10 HOOKERS’ BALL When a party has the slogan ‘you might get laid but you won’t get paid!’ you know you’re in for a bumpy ride. Dress festively: pimps, sluts, hookers, drag queens, gigolos and whores of all genders and sexual preferences are encouraged. Church, Sat 23 Feb, 22.00, €25

Addresses Akhnaton Nieuwezijds Kolk 25, www.akhnaton.nl Church Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel Linnaeusstraat 89, www.lgbtqoosterpark.blogspot. com Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21, www.engelamsterdam.nl Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590, the Sameplace website (www. a relaxed and open atmosphere. www.heineken-music-hall.nl sameplace.nl) and check out the Enjoy a live performance by Jimmy Woo dress code, the rules of conduct Louis Guilliaume, tunes by DJs Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18, and apply for a reservation, Martijn, Trashling and Kaseta www.jimmywoo.com which is absolutely required for and visuals by VJs AlexEt Lellebel this party. Jeremy and X-Machine. Utrechtsestraat 4, Same Place, Sun 27 Jan; 24 Upstairs, there’s art and further www.lellebel.nl Feb, 16.00, €30 for single men creativity courtesy of Toon, Marnixbad Dortart and guests. Marnixplein 1, DV8 OCCII, Sat 2 Feb, 23.00, €7 www.hetmarnix.nl The fresh-faced DV8 promises a Club NYX FLIRTATION LOVE & party that recaptures the feeling Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, POTION of Amsterdam’s legendary (and http://clubnyx.nl sorely missed) IT nightclub This edition of girls-only dance Heineken Music Hall where house music first arrived event Flirtation, which caters to OCCII in the Netherlands. Instead of an open-minded female audieAmstelveenseweg 134, a massive party with mononce, revolves around the coming http://occii.org tonous beats, DV8 aims to be Valentine’s Day with a ‘Dating Odeon an intimate affair with happy in the Dark’ event. Dress code: Singel 460, progressive, tribal, dance and black and red. www.odeonamsterdam.nl vocal house music. A special Panama, Sat 9 Feb, 23.00, Panama performance by Ellen Eeftink €17.50 Oostelijke Handelskade 4, from Idols should get the party www.panama.nl F*CKING POP started. Pathé de Munt QUEERS Akhnaton, Fri 1 Feb, 22.00, Vijzelstraat 15, €10 Fucking Pop Queers advertises www.pathe.nl itself with the tagline ‘It’s Fun! Pure Liner BEAR NECESSITY – 5 YEAR It’s Pop! And it’s sooo Gay!’. Nieuwendammerdijk 538, ANNIVERSARY This ego-free irreverence is also www.pure-liner.nl The biggest and most popular present in the whimsical themes Same Place party for bears, hairy hunks, and the cheeky mix of danceNassaukade 120, beefy boys, cubs, otters, their floor fillers and fluffy pop songs. www.sameplace.nl lovers and everyone else is Jimmy Woo, Sat 9 Feb, 23.00, Strand West known for its relaxed atmos€12.50 Stavangerweg 900, phere where people come to www.garboforwomen.nl ABBA – THE SHOW enjoy themselves to highTaboo quality music by resident stars Calling all Dancing Queens, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, and international guest DJs. young and old! After all these www.taboobar.nl GAY MOVIE NIGHT Enjoy a screening of the gems of gay cinema every first Wednesday of the month. Whether it’s the latest film by Pedro Almodovar, Gregg Araki or John Cameron Mitchell, work from an upcoming director or a classic gay film, you’re sure to catch the best LGBT movies in great company. You’ll be welcomed half an hour before the screening with a drink and after the film, you can enjoy two drinks for the price of one at the Taboo bar. Plus, every month, you’re eligible to win a DVD package. Pathé de Munt, Wed 6 Feb, 21.00, €10

part IV The A-list

Sports & wellness Events AMSTERDAM G’S Amsterdam’s own premiere ice hockey club. Playing in the national ‘Eredivisie’ league, you can catch their home games at the Jaap Eden ice rink. Jaap Eden Ice Rink, Radioweg 64, www.ijshockey-amsterdam. nl, various times, €5-€8

can take to the track to race (sign-up required), or you can enjoy the action from the side lines. Velodrome Amsterdam, Sloterweg 1045, www.velodrome. nl. Sun 20 & 27 Jan, 10.00, various prices

Highlight sports

FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam. ROLLERDIS/KO Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all A rockin’ and rollin’ night in areas of the city, allowing you Amsterdam-Oost. Yip, roller to skate in places where you disco ain’t dead, baby! So get wouldn’t on your own! your skates on (or hire a pair for Vondelpark Pavilion, the night) and enjoy a night of http://fridaynightskate.com. roller skating, hand-holding and Fri 25 Jan; 1, 8, 15 & 22 Feb, disco and funk boogie. 20.30, free Studio/K, Timorplein 62, www. studio-k.nu. Sat 19 Jan, 22.00, JUMPING AMSTERDAM APOLLO AMSTERDAM €5 + skate hire The international equestrian event celebrates its 54th BASKETBALL CLUB edition in 2013. It’s an annual highlight on the Dutch AJAX V FEYENOORD Following a year without an equestrian calendar that never fails to draw the world’s Amsterdam basketball team in The intense rivalry between the top flight, the Apollo Ajax and the club from Rotbest riders, including Olympic champions. The four-day Amsterdam Basketbal Club terdam means that fireworks event features 190 international stables − plus 1,300 tons stepped up this season. Head are always guaranteed at these of sand (that’s 28 trucks’ worth) and includes show-jumping along to a home match and football matches. And if you and dressage competitions, shows, evening entertainment support the team as they don’t manage to get tickets to and an exhibition area. (hopefully) slam dunk their way the ArenA, pull up a pew Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, www.jumpingamsterdam. to victory. and join the locals in an Amsternl. Thur 17-Sun 20 Jan, various times & prices Apollohal, Apollolaan 4, www. dam bar. Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Bou- apollobasketball.nl. Sun 3, 10 & 21 Feb, 17.00, €TBA levard 1, www.amsterdamarena. DE KLIM MUUR about how Ajax has been able to nl. Sun 20 Jan, 16.30, various FRIDAY NIGHT RUN deliver so many world famous prices Rock climbing in the centre of Organised by the Phanos Athsoccer heroes for over 100 Amsterdam. Enjoy a fun and AMSTERDAM HASH HOUSE letics Association every second years. Read more about Ajax safe event for beginners, or a HARRIERS Friday of the month, this free Amsterdam, including their more challenging climb for exgroup running event is open home match schedule for the Dating back to the 1960s, this perienced rock hoppers. Various to both recreational and more 2012/2013 season. ‘drinking club with a running courses are available. serious sportsters. Beginners Rembrandtplein/ problem’ now has more than Dijksgracht 2, www.de can join in the 40-minute run at Utrechtsestraat 9, 1,250 chapters worldwide. klimmuur.nl, various times & a slower tempo and there’s also www.ajaxexperienceamster Visitors and newcomers are prices the standard one-hour run. dam.com. Open Mon-Wed welcome, so head along every KNIJN BOWLING Olympic Stadium, www.phanos. 11.00-19.00; Thur 11.00-21.00; Sunday and walk, jog or run org. Fri 8 Feb, 19.30, free Fri-Sun 11.00-19.00, €16, under- Ten-pin bowling for everyone: the trail with fellow ‘hashers’, 12s €11 singing and drinking along suitable for family events, AJAX V RODA JC KERKRADE the way! 50+, beginners or competitive GLOWGOLF AMSTERDAM Despite failing to achieve Various locations, www.harrier. players. One of its most popular Practice your putting skills nl. Sun 20 & 27 Jan; 3, 10, 17 & notable league results in recent occasions is Disco Bowling – years, Roda JC Kerkrade has in an unlikely scenario – in 24 Feb, various times, €5 every Friday and Saturday night built up a solid reputation as the cavernous basement of an from 23.00 to 00.30. ROAD2ROTTERDAM something of a giant killer. Amsterdam bar, wearing 3D Scheldeplein 3, www.knijn TRAINING EVENT There’s certainly all to play for in glasses and surrounded by psybowling.nl. Various times & chedelically glowing obstacles In the run-up to the Rotterdam this match and Ajax will need to prices put in a decent performance to exploding from the darkness. Marathon later in the year, the LASERCITY AMSTERDAM come away with a win. The theme of this weird and Amsterdamse Atletiek Combiwonderful 15-hole glow-innatie (AAC) organises a series of Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA BouLess painful than paintballing, training events at their grounds levard 1, www.amsterdamarena. the-dark course is ‘Back to the but certainly no less fun, the nl. Sun 10 Feb, 14.30, various Future’. in the Nieuw-West district of laser gaming adventures on prices Prins Hendrikkade 194, www. the city. offer here are perfect for large glowgolf.nl. Open Mon-Thur, Willinklaan 7, www.aac and small group outings. The AJAX V ADO DEN HAAG Sun 10.00-22.00; Fri 7 Sat amsterdam.nl. Sun 20 Jan; 10 600m2 playing area, near the Feyenoord isn’t the only club 10.00-23.00, €7.75 + 3D glasses Feb, time TBA, free National Maritime Museum, that loves to win against Ajax is also the biggest laser gaming JAAP EDEN ICE RINK VONDELPARKLOOP Amsterdam: there’s also a centre in the region. strong element of rivalry The Jaap Eden ice-skating rink A sporting event for the whole VOC-kade 3, www.lasergamen between Ajax and ADO Den is Amsterdam’s largest and family, the Vondelparkloop amsterdam.nl. Various times Haag, and this is one of the best-known ice skating centre, weaves through the famous park & prices matches of the season for this with an outdoor 400-metre in Amsterdam, following the SKI INN AMSTERDAM team from The Hague. rink (open October to April), an main pathways to distances of Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Bou- indoor one and a beginner’s corup to 10km. Part of the charm It’s not quite the Alps, but of the event is its accessibility, levard 1, www.amsterdamarena. ner. Jaap Eden also offers disco whether you’re looking to warm nl. Sun 24 Feb, 16.30, various skating every Saturday evening so even if you don’t fancy a run, up for a winter vacation or just prices between 20.40 and 23.30. come along and support those curious to try your hand at a Radioweg 64, www.jaapeden.nl. spot of skiing or snowboarding, taking part. Various times & prices Vondelpark, www.phanos.org. you can do just that in the heart Sun 20 Jan, 10.30, sign up on of Amsterdam. The indoor KLIMHAL AMSTERDAM Locations day, free rolling slopes of the Ski Inn are Klimhal Amsterdam is the peradaptable for all skill levels. The Ajax Experience VELODROME fect place for the beginner and WG Plein 281, www.ski-inn.nl. ON SUNDAY In just over an hour, visitors the advanced climber. Its main Various times & prices can experience how Ajax heroes wall is 21 metres high, with a There’s always ample opSLOTEN GOLF COURSE are born. The Ajax Experience climbing surface of more than portunity to get on your bike is a surprising and interactive 2,300 m2 and a bouldering area Straight down the middle! This in Amsterdam, but riding on a of 250 m2. velodrome track is an altogether experience that introduces you nine-hole golf course on the to the Ajax philosophy. Special Naritaweg 48, www.klim different challenge. During the outskirts of Amsterdam features halamsterdam.nl. Various times Velodrome on Sunday program- attention is being given to the both wooded and water areas. informal way to learn more & prices mes, beginners and amateurs Head on to the fairway or prac-

tice your swing at the driving range. Club hire available. Sloterweg 1045, www.golf baansloten.nl. Open Mon-Fri 08.30-18.00, various prices

wellness KOAN FLOAT If gently submerging yourself in warm salt water sounds like heaven to you, then head to Koan Float in the city centre. Here you can leave the real world behind as you experience the tranquillity of a floatation tank or a wide variety of massage sessions. Herengracht 321, www.koanfloat.nl. Various times & prices THE ORIGINAL DR FISH This might sound a bit fishy, but Amsterdam’s Dr Fish is the newest trend in wellness treatments. The feeling of fish nibbling at your hands and feet may feel a little strange at first, but you’ll soon discover just how relaxing it is. It’s the ultimate treatment for clean, soft hands. And to round off the pampering, you are served a delightful glass of bubbly in the lounge afterwards. They also offer facials, body massages and manicures. Van Baerlestraat 45, www. theoriginal-drfish.nl. Various times & prices SAUNA DECO AMSTERDAM Sauna Deco is highly regarded in Amsterdam as one of the few places in the city centre where you can still go to completely relax. Enjoy its lounge rooms, pleasant atmosphere and all the facilities you require for a day of luxury. And as you can guess from its name, the sauna is styled in historic and beautiful art deco pieces, transporting its guests to a bygone era. Herengracht 115, www.sauna deco.nl. Various times & prices SENTO SPA AND HEALTH CLUB Are you looking for a fitness centre and health club in the heart of Amsterdam? At Sento you can find complete professional supervision and personal training for every requirement. Enjoy the spa and beauty facilities or go for a swim in the pool. Marnixplein 1, www.sento.nl. Various times & prices SPA ZUIVER Completely unwind and enjoy the comfortable surroundings and luxurious treatments of Spa Zuiver, located on the edge of the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). With facilities including saunas, baths, Hamam treatments, relaxation chambers, sports, swimming pool and dining and hotel options, it’s perfect for anyone looking to relax and recharge. Please note: clothing is not obligatory at this mixed gender spa. Koenenkade 8, www.spazuiver. nl. Various times & prices

Relax with your favourite cocktail while taking in the delights of the city. Our Cocktail Cruise takes 2 hours and departs daily at 20h00 from the Holland International pier on the Prins Hendrikkade 33a, opposite Central Station. Buy your tickets online and get a discount. To get your discount enter code AMAG1 at canal.nl

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beyond

a’dam

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond Amsterdam

cobra museum

Dedicated to the avantgarde art movement of the ’40s and ’50s, the Cobra Museum boasts works by famed artists including Karel Appel and Corneille, as well as pieces by their Dutch contemporaries. www.cobra-museum.nl

HAARLEM Haarlem has a rich history, monumental churches, historic hofjes (former alms-houses) and diverse museums. If you take the train, take time to appreciate the only Dutch railway station decorated in the Jugendstil (art nouveau) style, with characteristic tiled panels, decorative ironwork and a striking wooden signal house. The Amsterdamse Poort, a city gate dating from 1355, is a magnificent monument that has withstood countless battles and wars, while on the historic central square the Sint Bavokerk spire is worth the climb, boasting unparalleled views stretching for miles. Don‘t miss the Frans Hals Museum (Groot Heiligland 62, Haarlem, www.franshals museum.nl), whose current exhibition, Frans Hals, Eye to Eye With Rembrandt, Rubens and Titiaan, gives the Old Master the credit he deserves. The Teylers Museum (the oldest in the Netherlands) houses fossils that are millions of years old, as well as scientific instruments and coins, pictures and paintings. Het Dolhuys museum of mental health, meanwhile, charts the treatment of the mentally ill in the past and present and is a unique testament to Dutch tolerance. www.vvvhaarlem.nl Getting there: trains from Central Station to Haarlem take around 15 minutes.

ZAANSE SCHANS With traditional houses, windmills, warehouses and workshops, the Zaanse Schans open-air museum offers a perfectly-preserved glimpse into what it was like to live in one of Europe’s first industrial regions in the 18th and 19th centuries. As Amsterdam’s shipbuilding industry flourished, local guilds banned the building of wind-powered saw mills within the city limits. Instead, these windmills were built along the Zaan River, where the wood could easily be shipped back. At one time, there were no fewer than 800 of them in the Zaanse Schans region, which became an industrial centre. Many of the characteristic regional houses are now museums or workshops, which demonstrate traditional crafts. www.zaanseschans.nl Getting there: from Central Station take the train to Koog-Zaandijk (15 minutes). Zaanse Schans is a ten-minute walk from the station.

The Frans Hals museum

Haarlem’s most popular attraction has a collection of Golden-Age Old Master paintings to rival Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

'what a joy it is to see a frans hals, how different it is from the paintings – so many of them – where everything is carefully smoothed out in the same manner.'

www.franshalsmuseum.nl

vincent van gogh writing to his brother, theo van gogh, 13 October 1885

AALSMEER FLOWER AUCTION

CZAR PETER HOUSE In the year the Netherlands celebrates 400 years of trade with Russia, a visit to the place where Peter the Great resided in 1697 while learning about the Dutch ship-building industry is especially timely. Learn the context at the Peter De Groot exhibition at the Hermitage (Amstel 51, www.hermitage.nl), opening 9 March. www.zaanseschans-museum.nl Getting there: from Central Station take the train to Zaandam (direction Uitgeest; journey time 20 minutes). From the station it’s a ten-minute walk.

Green-fingered early birds should be sure to visit FloraHolland’s enormous flower auction to witness Holland’s contemporary bulb boom. Each day, 19 million flowers and two million plants are sold in an area so large the workers traverse it by bike. The earlier you arrive (it opens at 7am) the more action you’ll see. Buyers haggle for the best prices, and the blooms – riotously colourful and heavenly scented – are dispatched all over the globe within hours of being sold. The flowers are sold in a ‘Dutch auction’: as the clock ticks down, the price of the flowers gets lower. Come March, visitors can also check out the Keukenhof (Stationsweg 166a, Lisse, www.keukenhof.nl). It‘s Europe‘s largest flower exhibition, and it opens with a tulip show on 21 March. www.floraholland.com Getting there: from Central Station, bus 172 (direction Kudelstaart) takes you directly there in just under an hour.

MARKEN So picture-perfect, it’s like stepping into a 17th-century Dutch landscape painting. Historic Marken, with its characteristic green wooden houses, was an island in the Zuiderzee until 1957, when it was connected to the mainland by a dyke. The isolationist days are still evident, in both the locals’ distinctive dialect and the traditional dress still worn by some inhabitants. Getting there: bus 311 (direction Marken) departs every half-hour from Central Station and takes approximately 45 minutes.

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need to

know

Tax-free shopping to tipping, your ABC of navigating Amsterdam.

illustration Qamar van Leeuwen

COFFEESHOPS A tolerance policy is active in the Netherlands, which means the possession and sale of soft drugs is recognised as a violation of the law but isn’t prosecuted. Amsterdam’s many coffeeshops are permitted to sell up to five grams of cannabis to any patron over the age of 18. All hard drugs and the sale/purchase of soft drugs on the street are strictly illegal and punishable by law.

need to know

TAXIS Taxis are a popular form of transport in a city where many residents don’t own a car. However, since the city centre is a maze of roads, bike lanes and footpaths, taxis cannot legally stop in certain places. To keep traffic flowing at peak efficiency, there are regulated taxi ranks across the city – including outside Central Station and on Leidseplein. As of 2011, for the sake of transparency, all taxis must legally be equipped with an on-board computer which will automatically print a receipt. Regulated fares have also been introduced. These are listed below for a regular, four-passenger taxi.

Maximum start price: €2.66 Maximum price per kilometre: €1.95 Maximum price per minute: €0.32 For more information, see www.taxi.amsterdam.nl

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS PUBLIC TRANSPORT An extensive, easy-to-navigate transport network connects Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods. Disposable OV-chipkaarts, which have an inbuilt chip, can be used on all forms of transport and may be purchased or topped up with credit at locations across the city – just don’t forget to check in and check out or your card may be invalidated. Trams and buses are the most common form of public transport within the centre, while trains and the metro are efficient for travelling longer distances. Behind Central Station, ferries transport passengers across the River IJ to the north of Amsterdam – completely free of charge.

TIPPING Service is always included in. It is, however, customary to tip in restaurants, bars and taxis. As a general rule, between 5 and 10 per cent is acceptable. If service is bad (as it all too often can be), don’t hesitate to withhold the tip.

In an emergency (police, ambulance, fire) call 112 To report theft or other petty crimes, call 0900 8844 For non-urgent medical advice call 020 427 5011

BIKES Most locals swear by their bikes as the best means of transport. Bike rental companies are located across the city. Just follow these simple rules to remain safe: Stay in lane: use the right-hand bike lane Follow the rules: adhere to all traffic lights Indicate: always signal before turning Light at night: it is illegal to cycle without lights, front and back, in the dark Watch out for tram tracks: cross them at a sharp angle Lock up: always chain up to a bike stand Don’t imitate the Dutch: Amsterdammers are notorious for breaking road safety rules. Don’t follow their example!

IJmuiden aan Zee on a lovely winter dayâ&#x20AC;Ś.

The wind in your hair on the beach

Harbours and locks

Close your eyes, breathe in the fresh sea air and feel the wind in your hair. The beach of IJmuiden aan Zee is the perfect place to get out in the fresh air. You can drink a hot chocolate at one of the beach pavilions that are open all year. Or take a walk in the grounds of the estates and gardens of Landgoed Duin & Kruidberg or buitenplaats Beeckestijn.

IJmuiden is the only gateway to Amsterdam harbour for large seafaring vessels and cruise ships. Gawp at the huge ships, find out how the four locks work and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to eat a fresh herring or fried fish at one of the fish restaurants in the harbour area. Visit the Sea and Harbour Museum to find out more about this aspect of IJmuiden aan Zee.

How to reach IJmuiden - 27 km by car to the northeast of Amsterdam. - By Fast Flying Ferry from the Central Station in Amsterdam in half an hour to the Pontplein. - Bus 82 takes you from the Marnixstraat in Amsterdam directly to the beach.

For more information: www.ijmuidenaanzee.nl

Photo: Janny Hospes

The Zaanse Schans in winter

Zaans Museum & Verkade Pavilion

On a clear winter day you can enjoy a lovely walk and visit the sights in The Zaanse Schans. In this residential and working district you can see mills, warehouses and (private) homes from the 18th and 19th century and visit museums, shops and old-fashioned crafts. You can see how cheese is produced and how the typical Dutch wooden shoes are made. The Zaanse Schans is appreciated by people of all ages and all walks of life. www.zaanseschans.nl

After your visit at the Zaanse Schans you can warm up in the Zaans Museum with a lovely collection showing the bygone days of the beginning of industry created by the active windmills along the river Zaan. Another part of the collection is painted Zaans furniture and beautiful objects. The Verkade Pavilion is about the chocolate industry, and a cookie and chocolate machine are shown in action. www.zaanseschansmuseum.nl

The Zaanse Schans can be reached: =15 minutes from Amsterdam

= from Amsterdam Central Station to Station Koog Zaandijk

= 391 from Amsterdam Central Station directly to the Zaanse Schans

www.zaanstreek.nl

closing John & Yoko

Then and now

then & now

MARCH 1969 nico koster/mai

‘Drove from Paris to the Amsterdam Hilton, Talking in our beds for a week’ The Ballad of John and Yoko

March 2013

The Rijksmuseum reopens!

Bach to not-so-basics bernhard martinez moyenne

On 25 March 1969, five days after their wedding, John Lennon and Yoko Ono climbed into the bed of room 902 at the Amsterdam Hilton Hotel and called the media. They stayed for seven days – ‘like angels’, said Lennon – protesting the war in Vietnam and courting the world’s press. Iconic images of the pyjama-clad duo, with signs reading ‘World Peace’ and ‘Hair Peace’ behind them, spread like wildfire. The so-called ‘bed-in’ was dismissed by some as a publicity stunt, hailed by others as performance art. Either way, it has become indelibly ingrained in popular culture. These days, the renamed John & Yoko suite is bedecked with tasteful memorabilia, and will set you back anywhere from €1,000 a night.

next issue

Master cellist Gary Hoffman performs all – yes, all – of Bach’s cello suites, at the Concertgebouw PLUS the Dutch National Ballet romances us, with Romeo & Juliet

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on the way

out

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

on the way out

David Rodriguez (24) from Mexico City, Mexico ‘I’m returning to Mexico today after studying here for two and a half years, and I’m really sad. What I’ll miss the most, though, is Raamplein; I attended a lot of concerts at Melkweg and Paradiso, and I would always get there early and hang out on that charming little square with my friends, have a drink or bite to eat. So many good memories were made there.’

text and photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Albert Vogd (23) from Groningen, Netherlands ‘I was at the Royal Palace for a special occasion, and it’s a very interesting building – the style, the architecture. The furniture isn’t something I would put in my room, but it’s very classic, over-the-top royalty, and you have to see it once. It’s the official palace of the Queen, whom the Dutch love, so it’s an important symbol.’

Sanne Prins (26) and Charlotte van Batenburg (25) from Den Haag, Netherlands ‘We come to Amsterdam several times a year; it’s a lot of fun, there’s so much to do and it’s always exciting. But what we really love is strolling around Vondelpark, which is lovely because it looks like real nature, it’s not over-landscaped or designed. There’s always something going on, especially in the summer with the free performances and concerts.‘

Belèn Rivera (26) visiting Martin Drost (25) from Madrid, Spain ‘During my last visit, Martin took me to the OBA Library. Even if I can’t read any of the books because I don’t speak Dutch, the building is so beautiful, and the interior is so airy and bright that it’s a great space to spend the afternoon. The terrace of La Place on the seventh floor also has an amazing view over the city.’

Jason Dittmer (36) from Florida, United States ‘I’m only here overnight for a guest lecture, but I hope I’ll have time to go walk around Prinsengracht. It’s my favourite Amsterdam stroll, because the architecture is splendid and the area is a magical mix of quiet and underlying positive energy. And it’s always fun to take a peek inside people’s homes – the Dutch have such great taste!’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & design Loes Koomen designer Astrid Terpstra staff photographer Marie-Charlotte Pezé cover illustration Leendert Masselink copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Lauren Comiteau, Matt Farquharson, Eliane Gerrits, Qamar van Leeuwen, Toby Main, Leendert Masselink, Adrie Mouthaan, Jowi Schmitz, Bregtje Schudel, Chantal van Wessen, Anna Whitehouse, Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag) listings Tamar Bosschaart, Eden Frost, Luuk van Huet, Steven McCarron, Dave Nice

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