A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 2, No. 6 by amsterdam&partners

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to Guide tic n e Auth m le r a Ha

THE LUXURY ISSUE

Vol 2 NO 6 NOV & DEC 2014 €3.50

14407

November - December — Language no problem — operaballet.nl

Dutch National Ballet

SWANLAKE

Dutch National Opera

LOHENGRIN

Rudi van Dantzig — 6 – 15 November 2014

Richard Wagner — 10 – 29 November 2014

Dutch National Opera

Dutch National Ballet

LA BOHÈME

Giacomo Puccini — 4 – 30 December 2014

CINDERELLA

Christopher Wheeldon — 12 December – 1 January

www.gassan.com

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 2 N 6 NOV & DEC 2014 0

THE EMBARRESSMENT OF LUXURY

P.06 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE The luxury issue: with lavish shopping, opulent fine dining and palatial hotels, living luxe is easy in Amsterdam. But it hasn’t always been that way…

P.17 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Hermitage Amsterdam’s new Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age, plus our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events.

P.29 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood watch: the affluent Oud-Zuid; plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.64 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; once upon a time in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out; colophon.

P.47 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH: iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

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©JANET ECHELMAN

CONTENTS

Once, during a stay in New York City with Dutch acquaintances who lived in the grandest apartment imaginable on Park Avenue, my wife and I almost fell off our chairs when we were sitting in the kitchen having breakfast. Out of a large cupboard, so it seemed, stepped a man in livery holding a cardboard box. It turned out that the cupboard contained a hidden service elevator. But even more surprising to us was the contents of the box: it was full of Douwe Egberts coffee, a quintessential Dutch brand that is sold in those typical brick-like vacuum blocks. Nothing fancy or classy about it, but the load must have cost a fortune, taking into account that someone bought it back home in Holland, took it on a plane and delivered it right in to their New York kitchen. This incident is telling of the way Dutch people relate to luxury. We’re uneasy about it. We hate to show it. But make no mistake: it is there for sure. As the historian Simon Schama has pointed out in The Embarrassment of Riches, his standard work on Dutch culture in the 17th century, wealth in this Calvinistic society was hidden behind modest facades. Hence the shape of the typical canal house: narrow but deep. The mentality has persevered to this day: where else would a minister move around on a bike? It all changed somewhat in the 1990s when a more hedonistic lifestyle emerged on the back of a worldwide economic boom from which the Netherlands, as a trading nation, benefited disproportionally. But flaunting your stuff remains largely confined to neighbourhoods like Oud-Zuid, which we are tellingly fond of calling ‘the reservation’: see our Neighbourhood Watch article from page 30 for a full description and tour. So sure, you can buy a padded Louis Vuitton cape for your pampered poochie somewhere in this town – and we’ll point you in the right direction from page 10 – but the real luxury of Amsterdam lies in the freedom not to follow the lifestyle of the rich and famous, but to be yourself.

nov & dec 2014

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

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‘JUST RELAXING, LOOKING OUT AT BEAUTIFUL AMSTERDAM. ELLA FITZGERALD ON VINYL, DREAMING OF TONY BENNETT.’ LADY GAGA KNOWS EXACTLY HOW TO DO A MINIBREAK.

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text Mark Smith

SLEEPING SATELLITE AS YOU TRIKE IT An eye-catching Amsterdam pilot scheme designed to reduce emissions, congestion and pollution in the city centre is making headlines the world over for its innovative approach. Launched in June with the support of the city council, the Foodlogica scheme aims to reduce the 15 million food miles that are travelled each year in Amsterdam to keep us all fed and watered. The scheme uses solarpowered electric tricycles to transport goods from local farmers direct to shops, offices and homes, thus shortening the chain between producer and seller. Michael Vos, owner of Juice & Salad on Vijzelstraat, is one of the six local traders to trial the scheme: ‘We choose Foodlogica because they correspond with our values and make the city a little nicer,’ he says.

Would-be bike thieves are being rumbled redhanded thanks to a new Amsterdam scheme that equips the humble fiets with the kind of sophisticated GPS positioning kit that used to be the exclusive preserve of fancy cars. A so-called lokfiets is a normal bicycle that has been fitted with a microchip that can be monitored by the police, should the bike go missing. A trial in Amsterdam’s West district has resulted in 100 arrests in the past year alone. The Centrum Fietsdiefstal (the organisation whose sole mission is to prevent bicycle theft) is keen to stress that the scheme may have applications beyond the cycle lane: ‘Laptops and even garden gnomes can be fitted with this kind of transmitter,’ reads an imaginative statement.

www.foodlogica.com

www.centrumfietsdiefstal.nl

BRIGHT IDEA Amsterdam has a spectacular Golden Age legacy of course, but how nice to see that the spirit of inventive commerce is alive and well today. Blazing a trail into the RAI convention centre on 8 November, Neonsplash is Europe’s biggest ‘paint party’. If you’re new to this exciting subcultural scene, a paint party combines electronic dance music courtesy of international DJs with acrobatic performances and thousands of litres of fluorescent paint slopping about the place, all of which is illuminated under UV lamps. For optimal effect, it is requested that attendees wear a white top – which, organisers say, ‘should be put on to your wall as a masterpiece and souvenir of the best night of your life.’ It seems things are going to get messy.

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Amsterdam RAI www.neonsplash.com

‘I SAID, “I’M IN AMSTERDAM.” SO HE CAUGHT THE NEXT PLANE AND COME OVER. AND WE RECORDED A SONG TOGETHER.’

‘HMMM – A CROSS BETWEEN BERLIN, AMSTERDAM, VENICE AND NEW YORK IF THAT COULD BE ARRANGED.’

DIDN’T TAKE MUCH FOR COUNTRY STAR WILLIE NELSON TO LURE SNOOP DOGG TO THESE SHORES.

STEPHEN FRY IMAGINES HIS PERFECT CITY.

WISER WORLD Be inspired at TEDxAmsterdam, as an exceptional speaker line-up – comprising Amsterdam tattoo artist Henk Schiffmacher, music entrepreneur Duncan Stutterheim and wartorn young ballet dancer Michaela DePrince, among others – share their thoughts on how a single idea or action can have rippling, far-reaching implications and even facilitate real-world change.

RED EYE FLIGHT A new initiative in the Red Light District aims to help visitors to the city’s most notorious neighbourhood to recover from their wildest excesses, before the party is even over. Bathed in cold white light (yes, really), the pharmacy-styled Hangover Information Center – which used to house an ever-changing menu of De Wallen’s ladies of the night – specialises in a drink branded ‘Reset’. According to the Hangover Information Center (and, yes, arguably their information is somewhat partisan), Reset delivers the hangover-busting antioxidant glutathione in its most palatable form yet. If consumed before a hangover kicks in, they say, the compound can help prevent familiar morning-after symptoms such as fatigue, a sore stomach, malaise and the inability to sleep through the night. Cheers, then!

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Sint Annendwarsstraat 3 www.hangover-information.com

WATCH OUT, BEAGLE’S ABOUT Cute alert! A new policy (or perhaps just a publicity stunt?) by Dutch airline KLM is harnessing the olfactory instincts of the beagle sniffer dog to return lost property to its rightful owners at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. The plucky hound, named Sherlock for obvious reasons, takes the scent from, say, a mobile phone left in a plane’s seat pocket, before bounding through the arrivals hall to locate the loser.

28 November Stadsschouwburg www.tedxamsterdam.com

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www.klm.com

BEER BONANZA The world-famous Délirium Café, known for its extensive beer list, has opened a branch in Amster-dam. Boasting more than 500 different beers and an on-site brewery, it’s the biggest beer café in Amsterdam. A special Délirium canal boat will take visitors to its location on the bank of the IJ – so no excuses for drinking and biking.

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Piet Heinkade 4-8 www.deliriumcafeamsterdam.nl

nov & dec 2014

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

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‘AMSTERDAM, I NEVER WANT TO LEAVE YOU. :(’

‘OH, LOOK, HARRY POTHEAD.’

RAP STAR AZEALIA BANKS INDULGES IN A SPOT OF ON-TOUR SEPARATION ANXIETY.

E! ONLINE HAS SOME PUN FUN FOLLOWING ACTOR DANIEL RADCLIFFE’S VISIT TO AMSTERDAM’S GREENHOUSE COFFEESHOP.

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NICOLAES ELIASZ. PICKENOY & THOMAS DE KEYSER

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CONCRETE

MUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN

Struggling to find that elusive work/life balance? One Haarlem-based communications agency thinks it may have found the solution. Heldergroen, which also has offices in Utrecht, has taken action on the part of its more workaholic staffers, installing a heavyduty pulley system that winches desks up to the ceiling come 6pm, rendering on-site overtime out of reach. www.heldergroen.nl

TOP 5 to do

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TEMPORAL TOWER , TODD VAN HULZEN © JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

EMPTY CHAIRS AT EMPTY TABLES

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

1 EXPERIENCE AMSTERDAM DELUXE Since the Golden Age, the Dutch have dealt with an ‘embarrassment of riches’ at odds with the nation’s Calvinist heritage. Shake off the guilt and explore contemporary ways to live luxe in Amsterdam. Various locations including Museum Willet-Holthuysen

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2 PORTRAIT GALLERY OF THE GOLDEN AGE Thirty civic portraits illustrate the story of Dutch collective citizenship, holding a mirror to the present and broadening concepts of Dutch art – literally. 29 November-30 December 2016 Hermitage Amsterdam www.portraitgalleryofthe goldenage.com

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3 CINDERELLA The Dutch National Ballet’s production of Cinderella treats the fairy-tale story as a starting point for an up-todate, cinematic ballet spectacle full of humour and with a generous sprinkling of magic. 12 December-1 January Dutch National Opera & Ballet www.operaballet.nl

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4 IDFA International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam turns the city into a documentary film fan’s delight, premiering many movies that later trickle down the festival circuit. 19-30 November Various locations www.idfa.nl

5 AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

Everything is illuminated for the third edition of this annual winter festival that puts the city in the spotlight – literally. Using light as their medium, international artists create location-specific projections, installations and sculptures around the city centre. 27 November-18 January 2015 Various locations www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

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‘SHIA LABEOUF RUNS AROUND AMSTERDAM MUSEUM 144 TIMES. BECAUSE, YOU KNOW. ART.’ THE UK’S INDEPENDENT NEWSPAPER TAKES A DIM VIEW OF A HOLLYWOOD ACTOR’S #METAMARATHON AROUND THE STEDELIJK.

SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME HOTEL HOTSPOT Lifestyle boutique hotel group Sir will be taking over part of Amsterdam’s latest cultural breeding ground, the A’DAM Tower, the city’s dedicated dance-music hub on the northern banks of the IJ. Sir Adam will have 110 stylish guest rooms and creative spaces offering breathtaking views over Amsterdam, a restaurant, terrace and destination bar, and is scheduled to open in 2016.

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A’DAM TOWER www.siradamhotel.com

DINNER MONEY It won’t surprise anyone who has Instagram on their phone to learn that there are more images of food uploaded to the internet than almost any other category of picture. With her app Feedie, set to launch in Amsterdam on 12 November, the South African model Topaz Page-Green has found a way to put all that foodie snapping to good use. For every picture of a meal taken in participating restaurants, Feedie makes a donation to The Lunchbox Fund, a charity that distributes nutritious food to the poorest children in South Africa, many of whom are orphans of the Aids epidemic. Supporters of the scheme, which is already up and running in the USA, include the actress Liv Tyler and the author Salman Rushdie. www.wethefeedies.com

A pioneering shop in the ever-ahead-of-the-curve De Pijp district has become Amsterdam’s first dedicated 3D printing and design store. Located on the arterial Ferdinand Bolstraat, the motto of Print3dmatter (see what they did there?) is ‘Think it, Print it’, and for as little as €15 per hour, the store’s handy gang can make your weirdest imaginings into tomorrow’s dust-collecting talking points.

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Ferdinand Bolstraat 182 www.print3dmatter.com

PART I UP CLOSE

the luxury issue

THE LUXURY ISSUE With lavish shopping, opulent fine dining and palatial hotels, living luxe is easy in Amsterdam. But it hasn’t always been that way…

XXX

RAISING THE BAR Raise a glass to the finer things in life. Amsterdam is saturated with cosy bars and casual beer cafés, but it isn’t always so easy to find more upmarket establishments. Luckily, the city’s top-flight hotels all have appropriately fancy bars, serving some of the best cocktails in town. The Amstel Hotel’s A bar (Professor Tulpplein, www.abar.nl ) is polished and chic (think: black leather with chrome accents), while Tunes Bar in the Conservatorium (pictured; Van Baerlestraat 27, www.conservatorium hotel.com ) is über-sleek, and has an attached smoking room for cigar aficionados. Inspired by the Prohibition era, Bluespoon Bar at the Andaz Amsterdam (Prinsengracht 587, www. amsterdam.prinsengracht. andaz.hyatt.com ) takes Dutch designer extraordinaire Marcel Wanders’ trademark kitsch and ups the swish factor. Bo Cinq (Prinsengracht 494, www. bocinq.nl ) and MOMO (Hobbemastraat 1, www. momo-amsterdam.com ), meanwhile, are where the beautiful go to see and be seen.

Since the Golden Age, the Dutch have dealt with ‘an embarrassment of riches’ at odds with the nation’s Calvinist heritage.

ELISAH JACOBS

text Mark Smith highlights Megan Roberts

AMSTERDAM DELUXE

umour has it, when the first Louis Vuitton store opened in the Netherlands, on Amsterdam’s PC Hooftstraat, the brand commissioned an extensive survey into the luggage-buying habits of the Dutch. Apparently, when asked to name a brand that typified lavish, jet set travel, the most common response was ‘Samsonite’. Whether it’s true or not, the very existence of this anecdote says a lot about Dutch attitudes to the high life. No one’s doubting the build quality of Samsonite’s famously sturdy suitcases, of course, but it’s fair to say that they’re more conference kit than sumptuous baise-en-ville (the superbly evocative French slang for a chic little overnight bag that carries just enough for a decadent urban assignation). ‘By nature, you might say that we are quite different from the French, who allow themselves to be seduced by the romance of the shopping experience,’ says Gervaise Coebergh, whose communications consultancy Coebergh is often the first port of call for luxury brands looking to make their mark in the Netherlands. Her agency’s current roster of clients includes the iconic American jeweller Tiffany & Co – which, despite having been established in 1837, only made it to Amsterdam in 2009. ‘Of course, purchasing habits are becoming more globalised, and nowadays Amsterdam’s retail landscape

needs to cater to the tastes of visitors from abroad, particularly China, Russia and the Middle East. But traditionally, the Dutch are quite modest and they’ve been inclined to spend on articles that are less – well – shiny,’ says Coebergh. Ask any Amsterdammer why this is, and chances are they’ll make reference to the doctrine of Calvinism, which values sobriety, reserve, conscientiousness, adherence to the rules and – above all – thrift. Theologist John Calvin, born in Noyon, France in 1509, may never have set foot in the Netherlands, but the teachings of this leader in the Protestant Reformation found no more fertile ground than right here. As former prime minister Jan Pieter Balkenende declared at an event to mark the 500th anniversary of Calvin’s birth: ‘We are the most Calvinist nation in the world. Hard work, frugal living and tenacity of opinion: that is the typical make-up of the Dutch.’ But is it really so straightforward? Tellingly, the major reference on the subject of Dutch attitudes to wealth is titled The Embarrassment of Riches. Subtitled ‘An Interpretation of Dutch Culture in the Golden Age’, this 1987 book by the renowned English historian Simon Schama explores the fascinating paradox that grew in the heart of 17th-century Holland, a nation that had attained an unprecedented level of monetary affluence, and yet –

PART I UP CLOSE

the luxury issue

GOLDEN AGE GLORY Get a sense of the pomp and opulence of the past at one of Amsterdam’s perfectly preserved canal-house museums. Enter through the former coach house and the lush secluded garden to experience the hidden wealth of Amsterdam’s former bourgeois elite at the Geelvinck Hinlopen House (Keizersgracht 633, www.geelvinck.nl ). Find beautiful portraits, impressive furniture and silver and porcelain from across the centuries at Museum Van Loon (Keizersgracht 672, www. museumvanloon.nl ) or soak up the authentic 19thcentury atmosphere at the Museum Willet-Holthuysen (Herengracht 605, www. willetholthuysen.nl ).

CHOCOLATE COUTURE EXPENSIVE TASTES Contrary to culinary clichés, Amsterdam’s dining scene has a gallery of stars – Michelin stars, that is. Stylish harbour-view restaurant &samhoud places (Oosterdokskade 5, www. samhoudplaces.com ) boasts an impressive two, thanks to molecular maestro chef Moshik Roth. The recently opened Librije’s Zusje (Herengracht 542-556, http://waldorfastoria3. hilton.com ), located inside the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, may be too green for any such accolades yet – but as the sister restaurant of hallowed three-Michelin starred De Librije in Zwolle, it’s just a matter of time. Fish restaurant Bridges, meanwhile, is a little more established (Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, www.bridgesrestaurant.nl ). Chef Aurélien Poirot has been creating dishes that, ahem, ‘bridge’ cultures since 2009, and was rewarded his first star this year. Bord’Eau (Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2, www.bordeau.nl ), in the regal Hotel de l’Europe, is a playfully modern French restaurant, elegant without being stuffy. And of course, has two Michelin stars.

Noblesse oblige: Amsterdam has the world’s largest cocoa harbour. No surprise, then, that the city also has plenty of specialised stores to meet the exacting demands of even the fussiest of chocolate connoisseurs. For those days when supermarket chocolate just won’t cut it, Puccini Bomboni (Staalstraat 17, Singel 184, Ouderkerksplein 17A, www. puccinibomboni.com ), Pompadour (Huidenstraat 12, Kerkstraat 148, www. pompadour-amsterdam.nl ) and Huize van Wely (Beethovenstraat 72, www.huizevanwely.nl ) are just a few of the artisans creating some seriously tempting (eye) candy.

13 because of its Calvinist heritage – lived in constant dread of being corrupted by it. THE BLING RING According to Schama, the unimaginable explosion of merchant wealth in Amsterdam particularly presented an identity crisis for a city that had hitherto seen itself as ‘a maritime community of God-fearing burghers dwelling in piety and liberty’. Schama concludes that the situation led to the creation of ‘a distinctive dual identity’. Tonko Grever, director and curator of Museum van Loon, the impressive patrician house on the stately Keizersgracht that was home to the co-founder of the Dutch East India Company, puts it thus: ‘The Dutch are complicated. There’s much talk of piety, but our museum is a good example of how luxurious life was for certain citizens of Amsterdam during the Golden Age. The Van Loons went on shopping sprees in Paris and amassed a huge collection of gilded furniture. In fact, extravagant furniture was imported on such a large scale that the local carpenters started to protest.’ INCONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION It seems the ever-pragmatic denizens of Amsterdam’s Canal Belt managed to resolve their desire to spend with the fear of judgement by keeping their wealth hidden behind closed doors. ‘The exteriors of the canal houses are actually far more modest affairs than their lavish interiors,’ says

Grever. ‘Later on, when the Concertgebouw was built, the rich would allow themselves to show off their extravagant clothes during recitals, but it was always in the company of their approximate equals. It was never like in Naples, where opera-goers would spill out into the squares, flaunting their wealth to all and sundry.’ BIG BROTHER Conversely, the Amsterdam tradition of keeping one’s curtains open at all times is said to result from the eagerness of those lower down the pecking order to demonstrate that they had – literally – nothing to hide. According to Gert Jonkers, editor of the Amsterdam-based style magazine Fantastic Man, it’s a tradition continued well into the 20th century: ‘Times were tough in neighbourhoods like De Baarsjes and Noord. But at least you would be able to peer into your neighbour’s window and check that he wasn’t doing anything too ostentatious.’ As gentrification has taken hold, the open curtains of Amsterdam’s formerly workingclass districts (the Jordaan, say, or OudWest) are as likely to instil lifestyle envy as respect for ascetic living. But you could argue the pared-down sobriety that typifies Dutch interior design today – think the sofas of Hella Jongerius or the clean lines of Richard Hutten’s chairs – owes much to the legacy of Calvinism. And with typical ingenuity, it’s being exported to the world – at a price.

If your bank balance is more red than black, save on those splurge items without compromising. L’étoile de Saint Honoré (opened July 2013) is a treasure trove of upscale vintage accessories from Chanel, Hermès, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. More akin to a high-end boutique than a dusty secondhand store, each über-desirable bag comes with a certificate of authenticity – and prices reflect that: a pristine LV monogram clutch will set you back in the region of €175.

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Oude Spiegelstraat 1 http://etoile-luxuryvintage.com

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‘TRADITIONALLY, THE DUTCH ARE QUITE MODEST AND THEY’VE BEEN INCLINED TO SPEND ON ARTICLES THAT ARE LESS – WELL – SHINY.’ GERVAISE COEBERGH.

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

LUXE FOR LESS

PART I UP CLOSE

17th-century Holland had attained an unprecedented level of affluence, and yet lived in constant dread of being corrupted by it. TOP TRANSPORT It may be cliché, but the stately homes of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring were built to be viewed from the water. While there are a plethora of companies offering everything from hop-on, hop-off canal services to pizza cruises and guided tours, there’s something to be said for chartering your own boat. Weather permitting, you could hire Tirza Mol, who owns and operates the only authentic Italian gondola in this Venice of the North (www.gondel.nl), or opt for something with a roof as the temperatures drop. Cruise With Us (www.cruisewithus.nl) charters exquisite historic boats, sumptuously decorated in period style and serving the very best cuisine.

the luxury issue

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HAUTE FASHION FIX Amsterdam’s most expensive shopping street, the PC Hooftstraat , has welcomed a host of highend designer stores in recent years. Nowadays, it’s a veritable cornucopia of luxury brands: Cartier (#132), Chanel (#66), Dolce & Gabbana (#127), Gucci (#56), Hermès (#97), Hugo Boss (#140), Louis Vuitton (#67) and Dior (pictured; #100) all share this covetable postcode, with Prada opening its doors in recent weeks (see page 42). If you prefer to shop without risking the inclement Dutch weather, Amsterdam’s preeminent department store, de Bijenkorf (Dam 1, www. debijenkorf.nl ) is rightly dubbed ‘a world of brands’. The ground floor is a luxury shopaholic’s dream, with lavish concessions for almost every covetable brand you can think of. See pages 3035 for more unique boutiques in Amsterdam’s Oud-Zuid.

Fluffy towels at the ready: it’s time to get pampered. For the ultimate in relaxation, rejuvenation and pampering from head to toe, you can’t beat the Akasha spa at the Conservatorium Hotel (Van Baerlestraat 27, www.conservatorium hotel.com ). Divided into four areas to align with the elements, this is your one-stop shop for comprehensive restoration and rejuvenation – when money’s no object. Slightly more affordable – but no less luxurious – SOAP Treatment Store (pictured; Spuistraat 281 & elsewhere, www. soaptreatmentstore.com ) offers everything from instant facelifts to pedicures and waxing. For an altogether otherworldly experience, head to Koanfloat (Herengracht 321, www.koanfloat.nl ) for the ultimate floatation tank therapy.

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

SUMPTUOUS SPAS

15 LIVING LUXE Live luxe – for a weekend, at least. Amsterdam boasts high-end hotels for all tastes – from old-time grandeur to cutting-edge contemporary design. When the Waldorf Astoria (Herengracht 542556, http://waldorfastoria3. hilton.com ) opened in six stately Golden Age canal houses earlier this year, oldschool glamour and historic pedigree united for a discreetly luxurious feel. A dazzling renovation of a 19th-century bank-turnedmusic school, the Conservatorium Hotel (pictured; Van Baerlestraat 27, www.conservatorium hotel.com ) is the hostelry of choice for design-savvy stars, and has hosted Madonna, Gaga, Miley and more. Grande dame The Amstel Hotel (Professor Tulpplein, www.amstelhotel. nl ) dates back to an era when hotels were just that: grand, while The Dylan (Keizersgracht 384, www. dylanamsterdam.com ) is the premium choice for those with euros to blow and who are looking for an oasis in the old city centre.

DIAMOND DELUXE When Tiffany & Co (PC Hooftstraat 86-88, nl.tiffany. com ) came to town, Amsterdam’s luxury jewellery scene got an undeniable boost – but this is a city built on diamonds. Founded shortly after the war, Gassan (Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 175, www.gassan.com ) is housed in one of the city’s oldest diamond factories, and sells the most opulent set and loose stones in the attached shop and locations around the city. Gassan recently opened a fourth Amsterdam store, exclusively selling Rolex watches. In business since 1792, Bonebakker (Van Baerlestraat 27, www.bone bakker.nl ), meanwhile, is one of the city’s oldest and finest jewellers, with the royal seal of approval: founder Adrian Bonebakker made the royal crown for the House of Orange. Today, you’ll find exquisite jewellery and one of the best selections of highend timepieces in town.

CLASSY CULTURE Don your glad rags for a night of couture culture at one of the city’s pre-eminent venues. The Royal Concertgebouw (Concertgebouwplein 10, www. concertgebouw.nl ) oozes the plush-seated extravagance of the late 19th century, and its acoustics are reckoned some of the best in the world. The Dutch National Opera & Ballet (Amstel 3, www. operaballet.nl ) calls a distinctly more modern building home, but performances are no less of a fanfare event. Book your preshow dinner in the foyer, with a spectacular view over the Amstel River. See The A-List, pages 4762, for programme information.

Het Grachtenhuis Herengracht 386

Tram 1, 2, 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; stop Koningsplein

Book your tickets at museumo hecanals.com

Come listen to the story of our canals nr. 40 on City Card map

Museum of the Canals

nov & dec 2014

PART II 18 20 22 25 26 27

DRAWN IN LIGHT, RALF WESTERHOF. PHOTO © JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

ENTERTAINMENT

PORTRAIT GALLERY OF THE GOLDEN AGE STREET ART VIVIAN MAIER 13 QUESTIONS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL Everything is illuminated for the third edition of this annual winter festival that puts the city in the spotlight – literally. Using light as their medium, international artists create location-specific projections, installations and sculptures around the city centre’s historic canals and the Amstel River under the theme ‘A Bright City’. A self-guided (or guided) walking tour, boat route and related exhibitions at many of Amsterdam’s museums pay tribute to life in this dazzling city. Previous editions have featured an illuminated net, floating like a butterfly above the Amstel, a looming tower of light and a suspended neon cityscape mobile. 27 NOVEMBER-18 JANUARY 2015 Around Amsterdam www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

READER DISCOUNT A-mag readers can get a 25% discount on the Water Colors Cruise operated by Rederij Lovers when they book online, using promotional code 2014AMAG25. You pay just €14.25 per person instead of €19, and the price includes a glass of mulled wine or hot chocolate on the quayside. This promotion is valid from SundayThursday during the Amsterdam Light Festival. Reserve at www. lovers.nl, take along your printed boarding pass and enjoy an unforgettable journey through the illuminated canals of Amsterdam. www.lovers.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

portrait gallery of the golden age

Coming face-to-face with the past

Thirty civic portraits illustrate the story of Dutch collective citizenship, holding a mirror to the present and broadening concepts of Dutch art – literally.

NICOLAES ELIASZ. PICKENOY, MAALTIJD VAN SCHUTTERS VAN DE COMPAGNIE VAN KAPITEIN JACOB BACKER EN LUITENANT JACOB ROGH, 1632. COLLECTION AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

text Dara Colwell

29 NOVEMBER-END DECEMBER 2016 Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 http://portraitgalleryofthe goldenage.com

he Amsterdam outpost of the Russian state museum is thinking big. The Hermitage Amsterdam’s Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age exhibition, which features 30-plus group portraits, traces the story of Dutch collective citizenship from when the small 17thcentury Dutch Republic was doing great things on the world stage. Thanks to a partnership between the Amsterdam Museum, Rijksmuseum

and Hermitage Amsterdam, these paintings, which are comparable to Rembrandt’s iconic ‘The Night Watch’ and are rarely exhibited due to their size – the largest measures a whopping three by six metres – will be visible en masse to an international audience. ‘These portraits are unique,’ says Tom van der Molen, curator at the Amsterdam Museum. ‘In the Golden Age, people worked and lived in groups

and group identity was terribly important – this is what you see captured in these paintings.’ As Van der Molen explains, group portraits were not the norm in a Europe dominated by monarchs and the Roman Catholic Church – which comprised the subject matter for paintings. But in the Dutch Republic, influential merchants ruled. They governed and defended its cities, banding together to create one of Europe’s richest countries. No

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don’t miss these  MAGICAL AFRICA

UNKNOWN ARTIST, MUSEUM RIETBERG, ZÜRICH

DAVID LARIBLE

Dedicated to the culture of the Ivory Coast and featuring more than 200 objects. Works by 49 artists from the Baule, Dan, Guro, Lobi, Senufo and Lagoon regions of Ivory Coast span the 19th to 21st centuries, from a male figurine by Kipume Youl (1850) to the contemporary group sculptures of Emile Guebehi and Jems Robert Koko Bi, created in 2013. Four evenings of culture from the African continent offer context, with speakers including pioneer of African modernist painting Ibrahim El-Salahi, whose works feature in the collections of the MoMA, Smithsonian and Tate Modern. Until 15 February 2015 De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam square www.nieuwekerk.nl

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surprise, then, that these bourgeoisie also wanted to share in the kudos – and portraits were the contemporary way to do so. What visitors will see on display are group portraits of civic guards, governors, regents, administrators and guild members – such as those of the surgeons’ guild, captured by Rembrandt himself – involved in secular scenes of everyday life. The above painting by Nicolaes Eliasz. Pickenoy – the most popular portrait

artist of his day, until a young Rembrandt van Rijn superseded him – shows civic guards at a banquet, where an enormous turkey pie is being served with nuts, tropical fruit and olives, the bounty of a booming economy. Another painting, by Werner van den Valckert, shows four ageing regentesses, or female administrators, at a conference table completing paperwork for a lepers’ asylum. What’s also notable are

the parallels between Dutch life then, when the fledgling nation was peopled by wealthy merchants, scientists, philosophers, inventors and skilled craftsmen, and now. Van der Molen says the array of portraits illustrates on-going Dutch values such as egalitarianism, tolerance, liberty, a sense of sobriety and the social obligation to care for the needy. ‘Of course, you also see what we call “poldercultuur” [polder culture]: the need for groups of people to meet together to build and reach consensus,’ he says. Those organising the exhibition hope it will serve as a reflection for onlookers. As portrait subjects were painted life-size, the immensity of the paintings are ‘a direct confrontation’ with the past, says Van der Molen. ‘It’s as if the people in these paintings were asking the next generations to protect and take care of the city. As they did.’

Anyone labouring under the misapprehension that museums are stuffy places where you can hear a pin drop should keep their ears to the ground after dark on 1 November, when Amsterdam’s weird and wonderful museums become all-night playgrounds for young and old. There’ll be live music and DJs in the Stedelijk, EYE and Van Gogh Museum – and the sights will be pretty spectacular, too. Visitors can 3D print their heads in LEGO® at NEMO, go ‘dancing with Mr Darcy’ at the Geelvinck Hinlopen House or take a selfie in the Rembrandthuis that will be turned into an etching in the style of the Old Master himself. 1 November Various locations www.museumnachtamsterdam.nl

 WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS

A long-standing tradition in Amsterdam’s holiday season, Carré’s World Christmas Circus is a jaw-dropping spectacle for the entire family. With two, sometimes three daily shows between mid-December and early January – including on Christmas Day – Carré delivers a wide selection of renowned, international acts of spectacular entertainment that includes acrobatics, magic, trapeze artists and animal wranglers – and of course the usual clownery, this year with acclaimed Golden Crown winner David Larible. 18 December-4 January 2015 Royal Theater Carré, Amstel 115-125 https://carre.nl

highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

From vandalism to art in a generation

Amsterdam ♥ street art

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Amsterdam recently witnessed an explosion of fine new street art – partly because the city is rethinking how to relate to this art form, as works from the likes of Banksy are selling for record prices.

HERMAN DE JONG (BLUE PHOTO)

text Janna Reinsma

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t started as graffiti. We now call it street art, but it was always a dance between vandalism and art,’ says Amsterdam-based street artist Alexxx, who is a guide for his own streetart tour company AllTourNative. Although scribbling and drawing on public walls has been in existence since Roman times, graffiti in the Netherlands first emerged as political statements and posters for punk bands. In 1982 Gallery owner Yaki Kornblit was the first in Amsterdam to exhibit graffiti by American artists such as Blade, Dondi and Rammellzee. These exhibitions were hugely influential for the Dutch street-art scene. Café Soundgarden ( Marnixstraat 164-166, www. cafesoundgarden.nl) recently installed a memorial wall for these artists. Dutch pioneer Hugo Kaagman started in the 1970s with stencil art, and recently he turned the whole of the Hemonylaan in De Pijp  into his own personal canvas. While some of the stencilled murals in Amsterdam are

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Find out about street art in Amsterdam by booking a tour with the Amsterdam Street Art Museum, which leads you past 31 giant murals in NewWest (wwww.amsterdam streetartmuseum.com) or take a walk through the centre with an expert guide from AllTourNative (www. alltournative-amsterdam.com).

taken for Banksy’s, such as those by Karma and Fake, Kaagman’s work is unmistakably Dutch, mixing Delft Blue with Arabic patterns and advertising logos. He’s also a fan of the disruptive street signs that look like the real thing. A faux shop sign reads: ‘Sorry, we’re dead.’ Until the mid-1990s, Amsterdam was a Mecca for graffiti artists. Some of that had to do with the fact that the city stopped cleaning walls because it was discovered that the paint remover it used was poisonous. Especially since the canals are UNESCO Word Heritage protected, the city adheres to a zero tolerance policy for graffiti there, but for those who know their way around, there’s still plenty to discover. One of the highlights today is the Wijdesteeg , where in September street artists Hero de Janeiro and Ottograph opened the ‘Art Parking Showroom’ and took over the entire alley. Ottograph paints in flowing lines, while Hero was responsible for the

thousands of puzzle pieces on the walls and the floor. The alley is like a honey pot for Amsterdam street artists who want to make their mark. Some, like Niels ‘Shoe’ Meulman, Jasper ‘Jaz’ Krabbé and Boris ‘Delta’ Tellegen, make a bona fide living in the daytime in advertising, but continue to ‘work the streets’ at night. They may soon be able to give up their day jobs, as the city council is rethinking how to relate to this art form and increasingly grants permits to enliven depressed neighbourhoods or building projects. Luckily, as ever when subcultures are legitimised, new darker art forms emerge: street art with light, video, with living materials (moss) and using scent have been spotted.

A faux shop sign by artist Hugo Kaagman reads: ‘Sorry, we’re dead.’

featured artist

don’t miss these

text Dara Colwell

For the duration of a long weekend, Amsterdam becomes an internationally oriented meeting place for artists, enthusiasts and professionals. Expect diverse presentations at over 40 galleries, museums, art institutions, theatres and art residencies, ranging from special exhibitions and performances to artist talks and more. Several major Amsterdam institutions traditionally get involved: this year, events are being organised at De Balie, the Oude Kerk and EYE Filmmuseum. Acclaimed art institutions such as the Rijksakademie and De Ateliers also throw open their doors to introduce visitors to the work being produced within.

‘I’m making a playground that brings out your inner child and lets him loose again.’

DIMER VAN SANTEN

AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND

27-30 NOVEMBER Various locations www.amsterdamart.com

HERO DE JANEIRO (REAL NAME HERWIN POLDERMAN) Born: 10 January 1968 Talent: Street artist Hero de Janeiro (along with friend Ottograph) has been painting the Wijdesteeg alley near Dam square since May, turning it into a multicoloured gathering place and a growing hit with tourists. Hero has left his mark on Amsterdam before, pasting stencils of Karl Lagerfeld with a ghetto blaster and children’s characters Jip & Janneke on city walls. Sprayed on to the Wijdesteeg, Hero’s ad hoc city campaign ‘Amsterdam Loves You’ is aimed at bringing the city what it deserves (and what Hero doesn’t shy away from): attention.

10-29 NOVEMBER Dutch National Opera & Ballet www.operaballet.nl Amstel 3

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TONY OURSLER

HERMAN DE JONG (BLUE PHOTO)

‘I’m proud of this city and want to make it number one again in the street-art scene. In Amsterdam, there has always been the freedom to “just do it” – so we have. The idea was born at a party at Peter Klashorst gallery, where I was asked to paint puzzle pieces on the wall, and then I took over the alley. What’s great about the Wijdesteeg is it’s open to everyone. With this art, we’re trying to shake people awake. The city has become like an amusement park for yuppies – it’s all about consumerism rather than art – but it doesn’t have to be this way. There’s nothing wrong with earning money, but there’s definitely more to life. I think it’s important for Amsterdam to have such places and you can measure it directly because thousands of people have come here to see the Wijdesteeg. People are delighted and they thank me every day.’

PETROVSKY & RAMONE

LOHENGRIN The Dutch National Opera continues its exploration of great Wagner operas. This romantic fairy-tale work was initially staged by director Pierre Audi in 2002, with particular acclaim for artist Jannis Kounellis’s decor and the costumes by Angelo Figus. In the four lead roles are Nikolai Schukoff, making his DNO debut as Lohengrin; Juliane Banse, ’wonderfully subtle’ as Elsa; Russian baritone Yvgeny Nikitin, dubbed ‘physically, vocally, a complete star’ by the Independent and also making his DNO debut as Telramund; and Michaela Schuster as Ortrud, following on from his acclaimed roles in Elektra and Götter-dämmerung. Along with Bill Viola and Gary Hill, Tony Oursler (b.1957) is one of the best known of the so-called ‘second generation’ of video artists. For his first Dutch solo exhibition in 20 years, Amsterdam’s Oude Kerk sees the born-and-bred New Yorker unleash an alternative iconoclasm, taking advantage of the sacred characteristics of the Oude Kerk in order to create a blend of historical and contemporary perspectives on ethereal, parallel worlds. ‘In the Oude Kerk,’ says Oursler, ‘you see the traces of cultural change. Through the use of projections and interactivity I transform the historical space into a mirror for our present time.’

26 NOVEMBER-31 MARCH 2015 Oude Kerk, Oudekerksplein www.oudekerk.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

The photographing nanny In life, Vivian Maier was an inconspicuous nanny, but was found after her death to have been an amazing and prolific street photographer, whose work is now on display in Foam. text Joke van der Wey

UNTITLED, 1954 © VIVIAN MAIER. MALOOF COLLECTION. COURTESY HOWARD GREENBERG GALLERY NEW YORK

discreet woman with a masculine face, her hair secured out of the way with a bobby pin. This is how Vivian Maier (1926-2009) looks in the pictures she took of herself. They can’t really be called self-portraits; rather, they are ego snapshots, taken when she was capturing life around her. This mysterious – and in her lifetime totally unknown – photographer left behind more than 100,000 negatives, which were discovered after her death and caused a worldwide sensation. Vivian Maier was born in New York but had a French mother and an Austrian father. She spent her youth with her mother in a French Alpine village. When she moved back to New York in her 25th year, she learned English through frequent theatre visit. She found work as a nanny for wealthy families, and continued to do so for 40 years. The children who were entrusted to her care were dragged everywhere – even to the cattle market where dead sheep lay around – so they would get an image of life outside their own rich suburb. MARY POPPINS Maier wore a hat, a simple dress, a wool coat and men’s shoes. And she always had her Rolleiflex camera around her neck, with which she documented street life. People who knew her describe her as an eccentric, curious and free spirit. ‘A real, live Mary Poppins,’ said one of the children of the Gensburg family who she cared for. The same family allowed Maier to turn a spare bedroom into a dark room. When the Gensburg children had grown up in the PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST Born in New York of French and AustroHungarian extraction, Vivian Maier bounced between Europe and the US for most of her childhood before returning to New York City in 1951. Having taken up photography just two years earlier, she would comb the streets of the Big Apple, capturing the people she encoutered. By 1956 Maier had left the East Coast for Chicago, where she would spend most of the rest of her life, working as a nanny and taking pictures in her spare time, amassing a body of work comprising over 100,000 negatives.

don’t miss these In Amsterdam’s bawdiest ’hood, red-lit windows are making way for bleeding-edge cultural initiatives. Back for its tenth edition, independent art fair Art in Redlight offers a platform for established and up-and-coming visual artists, smack bang in the centre of De Wallen. ‘We decided to go with quality, but also audacity, expressiveness and whimsy,’ said selection committee member Rob Thijssen of the 70 artists who will present their work in the imposing redbrick Beurs van Berlage. High/lowbrow provocateurs V&B, multimedia artist Daan den Houter and Meinbert Gozewijn van Soest, who draws the experience of watching a face, are just a few artists to look out for.

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Seventies, Maier was nanny to families where conditions were less luxurious. She could no longer develop her own film, so that the rolls piled up. In the late Nineties, when Maier had hung up her camera, her photographic material ended up in a storage facility. When she had financial difficulties, her archive was auctioned in 2007 for late payment. In 2009, Maier died after an accidental fall on the ice. DARK SIDE The exhibition Vivian Maier – Street Photographer is based on the material of collector John Maloof, and dates mainly from the Fifties and Sixties. Maloof also made the documentary Finding Vivian Maier, in which he tries to find out who this photographing nanny really was. In it, he interviews the children Maier cared for, but it does not prove so easy to get a picture of Maier, who described herself as a ‘mystery woman’ and ‘sort of a spy’. Often she was inspiring and good, but sometimes unpredictable and even a little frightening – a nanny with a dark side. Critic Frank Meyer points out that she often photographed her own shadow, ‘perhaps as a way to be somewhere, and yet not to be’. It’s an interpretation that might go too far. But it is a wonder that it is possible, during these times of overexposure, to live a lifetime in the shadows yet create an oeuvre that can compete with that of Weegee, Garry Winogrand and Robert Frank. 7 NOVEMBER-28 JANUARY 2015 Foam, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org SELF-PORTRAIT, JUNE 1953 © VIVIAN MAIER. MALOOF COLLECTION. COURTESY HOWARD GREENBERG GALLERY NEW YORK

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LISETTE FRIAMANNSLUND, DAY 8 16H27M59S

ART IN RED LIGHT

27-30 DECEMBER Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243 http://artinredlight.com

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CANNABIS CUP The rest of the world may be (slowly) catching up with the Netherlands’ tolerant stance on the mighty ganja, but leave it to Amsterdam to devote five whole days (and hazy nights) to celebrating the skill and craftsmanship that goes into producing the perfect bud. Organised by High Times magazine, the world’s most trusted name when it comes to getting stoned, details are always sketchy leading up to the annual Cannabis Cup, but it always features an expo plus competition judged by willing attendees – and somehow, they always pull it out of the baggie at the last minute. Put that in your pipe and smoke it, Colorado.

23-27 NOVEMBER Location to be announced www.cannabiscup.com

VIDEO GAMES LIVE Children of the ’90s – or, indeed, their parents – will no doubt groan at the idea of the earworm ‘Tetris song’ (also known as Russian folk song Korobeiniki) taking hold again, but at this multimedia concert experience, videogame soundtracks are given the full orchestral treatment. Imagine the power of a symphony orchestra combined with the spectacle of a rock show and the interactivity of a video game united under cuttingedge visuals and state-of-theart lighting effects. And a lot of geeks. Top orchestras and choirs perform everything from ‘Super Mario Brothers’ to ‘World of Warcraft’ and ‘Halo’.

12 NOVEMBER Heineken Music Hall, ArenA Boulevard 590 www.videogameslive.com

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Portrait of a century

Modern Times, the Rijksmuseum’s first foray into photography in nearly 20 years, proves to be well worth the wait. text Megan Roberts

Bohemia calling A brave new version of La bohème takes a fresh look at Puccini’s classic. text Megan Roberts photo Petrovsky & Ramone

uccini’s masterpiece of emotional manipulation is something of an operatic institution – and like any deserving institution, it has the power to transcend details. With a score that casts its enchanting spell, inspiring laughter or tears regardless of the on-stage action (we defy you not to well up when the climactic aria ‘Che gelida manina’ reveals Rodolfo and Mimì’s love), it’s difficult to make a less than ‘good’ production of La bohème. But that’s not to say that those details can’t make a good production great – and even stellar (see, for example, Baz Luhrmann’s 1990 Tony Award-winning version for Opera Australia, transported to 1957 and with modernised supertitle translations). Co-produced with the English National Opera, Luhrmann’s multi-awardwinning and audacious compatriot Benedict Andrews takes the helm for a new production of this old favourite at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet, premiering this December. And it looks set to be

extraordinarily good. The pedigree is faultless, with internationally renowned conductor Renato Palumbo making his Dutch National Opera debut, as does visual artist Johannes Schütz as decor designer (who successfully teamed with Andrews for a contemporary reimagining of Chekhov’s Three Sisters at London’s Young Vic in 2012). The two leads are also new to the Dutch National opera: youthful Brazilian tenor Atalla Ayan as Rodolfo and Bulgarian soprano Sonya Yoncheva – dubbed a ‘star in the making’ by the UK’s Guardian – as Mimì. Popular Dutch baritone Thomas Oliemans (Papageno in Die Zauberflöte) returns as musician Schaunard. With a daring mix of the old and the new, expectations are high that the Dutch National opera has found a way to make one of the world’s most performed operas as fresh as the day it was first performed some 120 years ago. 4-30 DECEMBER Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 http://operaballet.nl

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transformed photography and laid the foundations for motion pictures. Amsterdam Impressionist painter and photographer George Hendrik Breitner’s early photographs – which were the precursors of modern-day street photography – are also represented, a snapshot of the city’s past. The most recent works on display were shot in Suriname in 2013 by Viviane Sassen, who straddles the worlds of fashion and fine-art photographer, while among the rarest masterpieces are photographs by John Gutmann, who chronicled Depression-era America, and Bauhaus professor László Moholy-Nagy. Man Ray’s ‘Peggy Guggenheim’, colour photography pioneer Joel Meyerowitz’s ‘Moon Launch’ and Jacques Henri Lartigue’s early photographs of home-made aeroplanes are all present. In many cases, the Rijksmuseum holds the only known original print. Documenting the grand and the mundane, wars and quotidian life, with news photography, advertising photography and even some amateur snaps, this is a fascinating exploration of the development of a medium. UNTIL 11 JANUARY 2015 Rijksmuseum Museumstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl

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STEVE PITCH, GRANDVIEW MOTEL, 1949

n the same year that the Rijksmuseum moved to its current Pierre Cuypers-designed home on the stately Museumplein, what would become the Kodak photography company introduced roll film, with the pocket camera appearing before the century’s end. The newly popularised medium became the perfect way to hold a mirror to the world. And despite its implacable association with Golden Age artists such as Rembrandt and Vermeer, the Rijksmuseum has an exceptional collection of 20th-century photography, of which Modern Times, Photography in the 20th Century, the inaugural exhibition in the newly renovated Philips Wing, presents a generous sampling. Surveying photography during its fledgling years right up to the present (roughly covering the 20th century, but also spanning the decades on either side), Modern Times presents some 400 images that together trace photography’s key developments during the 1900s, including the introduction of colour, the growth of documentary and news photography and the development of photography as a pure art form. The earliest photos are Eadweard Muybridge’s motion studies (including a galloping horse from 1887), which

13 questions Hans van Dalfsen (b.1965 Amsterdam) is editor-in-chief of the street paper Z!, which has been sold by homeless people in Amsterdam since 1995.

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text Sharon Wezeman

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‘Amsterdammers are “tuttifrutti”: they love variety.’ 1. TELL US ABOUT THE STEET PAPER Z! ‘Currently there are about 2,000 homeless people in Amsterdam. Because they’re selling the street paper, they can earn some money and build up social contacts. If you read Z!, the Uitkrant and Het Parool, you know everything about Amsterdam.’ 2. WHAT’S YOUR AMSTERDAM STORY? ‘I was born in Amsterdam, I grew up here and I still live here. But I can’t guarantee that I’ll stay here for ever.’ 3. WHAT SHOULD SOMEONE DO WITH A SINGLE DAY IN AMSTERDAM? ‘Jump on tram 2 from Central Station and get off at the Willemsparkweg. Visit the Royal Concertgebouw (Concertgebouw 10, www.concertgebouw.nl ) and Rijksmuseum (Museumstraat 1, www.rijksmuseum.nl ). Continue your way to the Albert Cuyp Market (Albert

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Cuypstraat, www.albertcuyp markt.nl ) and then follow the Ceintuurbaan to the Amstel.’

Sometimes it’s nice for people from Amsterdam to not be anonymous in this big city.’

4. FAVOURITE THEATRE? ‘I really like the Stadsschouwburg (Leidseplein 26, http:// stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl ), but I don’t go there often. It’s not in my system.’

7. FAVOURITE CINEMA? ‘I have a weakness for the Tuschinski (Reguliersbreestraat 26-34, www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/ tuschinski ) because I had a job there during my student days. I also love to see the Hitchcocks and other classical films over there. You’ll only find me at other cinemas when there’s a James Bond movie out.’

5. MUSIC VENUE? ‘The time I don’t spend at the theatre, I spend going to listen to music. I regularly go to concerts in the Concertgebouw  – partly because my wife works there in the kitchen! I also like to listen to students at the Conservatory of Amsterdam.’ 6. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? ‘I love home cooking, so I rarely go out for a dinner. But if I have to, I like to go to De Stadskantine – just thinking about it makes my mouth water (Van Woustraat 120, www.destads kantine.nl ). What I like about this restaurant, is that they know me and say “hi” when I enter.

8. TOP CAFÉ? ‘Cafe Welling (Jan Willem Brouwersstraat 32, www. cafewelling.nl ), behind the Concertgebouw. It isn’t trying to be hip and it has good beers from the Amsterdam Brewery ’t IJ. Exactly as a pub should be!’ 9. FAVOURITE PARK? ‘It might not officially a park, but I like to go to the Amsterdamse Bos . It’s a very quiet forest and there’s a nice coffeehouse called Chez Favié, run by real

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Amsterdam people.’ 10. FAVOURITE STATUE? ‘I grew up in Amsterdam-Zuid, and as a little boy I always climbed the magnificent bridge ornaments of sculptor Hildo Krop. Nowadays, when I walk in the Beethoven quarter, I still enjoy those grey stone statues.’ 11. WHERE WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO SPEND THE NIGHT? ‘The Apollohal . I’d be excited to camp in the middle of the basketball field – the field where I used to play basketball myself, and have left a lot sweat.’ 12. WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT AMSTERDAMMERS? ‘Amsterdammers are “tuttifrutti”: they love variety. This diversity is exactly what I love about them.’ 13. AND THE WORST? ‘They can be quite whiny.’ www.z-krant.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

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International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam

IDFA courts controversy, from framing reality to the female gaze.

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text Bregtje Schudel

IDFA 19-30 November Various locations www.idfa.nl

urating a programme about women and documentary films can be a tricky proposition. Would there ever be a programme – not counting the adult movie industry – called the ‘male gaze’, we have to wonder? Nevertheless, The Female Gaze, one of the main themes at the 27th edition of IDFA, does make for an intriguing line-up. It’s an eclectic mix of 28 contemporary and classic films. Like the controversial Portrait of Portrait of Jason (1967), a talking-head documentary that says as much about the two interviewers (director Shirley Clarke and Carl Lee) as it does about the interviewee, Jason Holliday. Fans of RuPaul’s Drag Race can see where it all began with 1990s cult classic Paris is Burning by Jennie Livingston. Don’t miss The House is

Black (1963), the only film from Iranian poet Forugh Farrokhzad. The contemporary films range from the poetic – like Good Things Await, about a biodynamic farmer in Denmark – to the heartwrenching, as in Waiting for August, where 15-year-old Romanian Georgiana has to take care of her six-odd siblings while her mother is off in Italy working as a housemaid. Also female and this year’s special guest is Dutch national treasure Heddy Honigmann. Her latest documentary feature, Around the World in 50 Concerts, following the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra on tour, will open the festival. She also compiled a list of her own favourites, including two documentaries by Johan van der Keuken, Racetrack by Frederick Wiseman and The Lion Hunters by Jean Rouch.

An even trickier subject (than female – or male – navelgazing) in documentary is the question of reality. Documentaries are about depicting reality, but that doesn’t mean everything is real. The movies in Framing Reality put this issue front and centre, like Orson Welles’ F for Fake (1973), I Want to See (2008), starring Catherine Deneuve as a version of herself, and – of course – Exit Through the Gift Shop by graffiti superstar Banksy. Also addressing the framing of reality will be Of Media and Men, the third main theme this year. How do the media affect our views and opinions? Why is net neutrality good? And whistle blowing necessary? Killswitch (Ali Akbarzadeh), Citizenfour (Laura Poitras) and Silenced (James Spione) will tell you all you need to know.

highlight Our must-see film pick this issue…

KLIK! Amsterdam Animation Festival

he programmers of KLIK!, Amsterdam’s animation festival now entering its seventh year, take this year’s main theme very seriously. For this (seventh) edition, no less than five sub-programmes are focused on Boys, Girls & Beyond, a ‘gender-bending ride, stopping at male, female and all stations in between’. Happy to be a Cliché shows us, appropriately enough, that it’s okay to be a cliché. From the girly girls in OMG BFF LOL: MALL (Charlie White), to white trash in Out on the Tiles (Anna Pearson), to the Johnny Bravos from, well… Johnny Bravo. It’s a Gender Thing deals with the rollercoaster of emotions that usually comes from not being one of the clichéd. How do you deal with being a passionate hooligan as well as a sensitive gay guy (I Love Hooligans, Jan-Dirk Bouw)? Or being a cat trapped in a dog’s body (The Dog Who Was a Cat Inside, Siri Melchior)? In Love is… there’s room for love in all its myriad forms. Between a horse and a panda bear (The Loveliest Thing, Arthur Metcalf), for instance, a chicken and a pig (Chicken or the Egg, Christine Kim) or even at a speed-dating event (Les Mots de la Carpe, Lucrèce Andreae). And there’s room for sex, but this time from the female perspective, from the abstract soft-porn of strawberries and sushi that is Futon (Yoriko Mizushiri) to the candid vagina monologues by Signe Baumane in Teat Beat of Sex. The final sub-programme, Terribly Inappropriate and Uncomfortable Gender Fucking Animation, probably speaks for itself. There’s also time for debate in four Gender Talks presentations, including Gay Curious, which examines our fascination with the sexuality of pop-culture icons, from Bert and Ernie to the Teletubbies to pretty much every fairy(tale) prince Disney ever imagined. Or go to the feature film Queer Duck: The Movie (Xeth Feinberg) and witness the adventures of Queer Duck, Bi Polar Bar and Openly Gator. 4-9 November EYE, IJpromenade 1 www.klikamsterdam.nl

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nightlife essentials RAUW: ED BANGER RECORDS SPECIAL The aptly named Ed Banger label always bangs it out. Tonight’s headliner, the Parisian label’s head honcho Pedro ‘Busy P’ Winter, used to be Daft Punk’s manager before he started the label ten years ago. As a DJ, Busy P likes it noisy, compressed and heavy. Also on the bill tonight are the UK’s Riton and Winter’s business partner Boston Bun. Saturday 8 November Tolhuistuin Tolhuisweg 5 www.tolhuistuin.nl 23.00, €17, €10 before midnight

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THE LOCO TOKO PICTURE SHOW International comedians rip apart popular movies with a unique combination of stand-up, improv, sketches and audience interaction, each show an unforgettable experience. During this run you can catch them taking on Bond in Die Another Day. Arguably, it wasn’t Bond’s finest hour, offering up North Korean torture and some dodgy visual effects that haven’t aged well. But hey, you can’t go wrong with explosions and laughs.

Sunday 16 November, 7 & 21 December Boom Chicago Rozengracht 117 www.boomchicago.nl 20.30, €12.50

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SAX 14 The 14th edition of this international saxophone festival brings four full days of smooth grooves and jazzy attitudes to the city, with a programme that’s jam-packed with new and established talents like Branford Marsalis, James Carter and Vincent David. Thursday 20-Sunday 23 November Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.saxfestival.nl Various times & prices

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LANG LANG AND 100 PIANISTS Brahms, Schubert and Mozart, plus one of the most famous pianists in

the world and 100 talented young pianists aged between six and 16. ‘We bring all ages together to showcase the power of music,’ says master pianist Ling Ling, who carried out the project earlier in Berlin and Tokyo. The youngest participant is slightly older than Lang Lang was when he began performing himself, having given his first concert at age five. Sunday 23 November Royal Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl 15.30, €10-€95

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MARIANNE FAITHFUL This gruff-voiced diva and counter-cultural British national treasure has seen it, done it and lived it. This tour celebrates her career of 50 years, which kicked off in 1964 as an innocent folk singer and has all too often been somewhat overshadowed by her tempestuous personal life. Over the years, she’s worked with everyone from Emmylou Harris to Metallica. Sunday 23 November Royal Theatre Carré, Amstel 115-125 http://carre.nl 19.00, €39-€48

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Saturday 6 December Sporthallen Zuid Burgerweeshuispad 54 23.00-07.00, €50

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The Museums of Amsterdam

CONGRATULATE

MICROPIA on the opening of her doors

With the I amsterdam City Card free entry to 34 museums & from January 2015 also to MICROPIA

OaM OVERLEG AMSTERDAMSE MUSEA

iamsterdam.com/citycard

nov & dec 2014

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘I LIVE IN THE NIEUWMARKT AREA BUT I LIKE TO COME HERE BECAUSE IT’S QUIET AND RELAXED. IT’S MORE PEACEFUL THAN MY OWN NEIGHBOURHOOD – AND IT’S NICE TO SEE HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES!’ Australian transplant Steve Foster on the Oud-Zuid.

MEESTERLIJK If you love beautiful things that don‘t come off the assembly line but are lovingly made by hand, then Meesterlijk (masterful) is for you. For three days, master designers, master chefs and artisinal makers tout their wares at Westergasfabriek, and even invite visitors to participate in the creative process. 28-30 November Westergasfabriek www.meesterlijk.nu

30 37 38 40 42 45

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: OUD-ZUID COLUMN EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

WOODIES AT BERLIN Esther, the creative brains behind the oh-so-chic Woodies aT BerLin interiors emporium, is in the lucky position to have a master craftsman for a partner. While his ‘day’ job is building boats, he also constructs anything Esther conceives, making the products she sells at Woodies aT BerLin both truly bespoke and artisanal. As well as beautiful wooden furniture you’ll find a tasteful smattering of vintage – and plenty of interiors inspiration. Ms. van Riemsdijkweg 51 www.woodiesatberlin.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

OUD-ZUID SARAH STERK (20)

Shop assistant at Shoebaloo (Cornelis Schuytstraat 9)

‘The atmosphere in OudZuid is really gezellig [cosy]. The people are lovely, and the restaurants and shops are great – especially Shoebaloo, the best shoe shop in Amsterdam!’

neighbourhood watch

Below Vondelpark and Museumplein lie some of Amsterdam’s most beautiful and wealthy neighbourhoods, where impressive manors line the leafy streets and unique boutiques abound. text Anna Whitehouse photos Zlatka Siljdedic illustration Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

The serene south

f all the lovely streets in leafy Amsterdam, the Willemspark micro-’hood may just boast the loveliest. Around here, the elms and birches grow tall and full, throwing green shade across every road and giving a gentle charm to the century-old town houses with their bijou balconies and peaked gables. And despite being within a wellflung Frisbee of Vondelpark and barely a few turns of a bicycle wheel from Museumplein, this idyllic little quarter is distinctly light on touristic bustle. While the Vondelpark gets skaters, sound systems and strollers – and even the least culturally curious visitors – tend to pay Museumplein a visit, Willemspark remains a peaceful oasis and a chance to see how the city’s well-to-do have lived for more than a century. Part of the broader area known as Oud-Zuid (Old South) – beginning just south of the Stadhouderskade at Museumplein and fanning out at Amsterdam’s ring road, mirroring the horseshoe formed by the Canal Ring – Willemspark is actually a relatively new part of this 800-yearold city, and has existed for barely more than a hundred years. In the late 1800s, Amsterdam officials were concerned that the city’s wealthier citizens were fleeing

the overcrowded and (then) somewhat pungent Canal District in favour of nearby Haarlem and Hilversum. Clearly, this flight of the tax-paying core would not do for a city with Amsterdam’s ambitions. So, a number of prominent citizens formed the Willemspark Construction Company to create a new area in what was then Amsterdam’s rural southern extreme. It would be a place that the city’s grandest would be happy to call home, and in keeping with the growing trend for ‘greening’ cities with parks and public spaces, the peaceful squares of Emmaplein (with its monument to the queen of the same name) and Valeriusplein were the central points around which homes were built. The area’s streets curved around the Vondelpark, in stark contrast to the grid patterns seen elsewhere in the city. Due to the exclusivity of the area, only local residents and members of the park association were allowed to use this vast green space – now the city’s most famous park – with the grand entrance on the proudly-named Koningslaan acting as their own private gateway. The large homes around these streets, with private gardens backing on to the park’s lakes, give an idea of the exclusivity of the area.

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Amsterdammers dub the area ‘het reservaat’ (the reservation), but you can leave your passport at home – just don’t forget your credit card.

Today, it’s for everyone, but its peaceful cafés, combined with the high-end stores found along Willemsparkweg continue to attract the city’s elite, and are perhaps a calmer alternative to the equivalents immediately around Museumplein. The area even has its place in popular culture, in the form of fictional Anglo-Dutch composer and playwright Willem Spark, whose name was sometimes adopted by Jewish writers in the 1920s and 1930s who were keen to get a wide audience for their work in an increasingly unfriendly Europe. ‘Willem’ was remarkably prolific, but then this has always been an area of high culture since the first piles were driven into the soft soil. CULTURAL CAPITAL Edge a little east of Willemspark and you find the Museum Quarter and the Royal Concertgebouw, and to the south, a cluster of streets named after Beethoven, Chopin, Schubert and others. This area was developed around the same time as Willemspark, following the construction of the Rijksmuseum as a cultural gateway to the city, at the tip of what was previously a boggy polder. As Amsterdam’s cultural capital grew, so did the ambition of its grand monuments. Just three years after the main building of the Rijksmuseum opened its doors, the Concertgebouw held its inaugural event. Some 126 years after its opening, it is still regarded as one of the greatest concert halls in the world for its acoustics (if you’re in town on a Wednesday, don’t miss the free lunchtime concert, at 12.30). The Rijksmuseum is flanked along her north-eastern edge by the exquisite Jan Luijkenstraat, full of beautiful town houses with occasional art nouveau flourishes.

SUITSUPPLY Think gentlemen’s club-meetsextravagant walk-in closet: dark wood floors set the brutishly masculine scene, while furniture and art is pastel-hued for a lighter finish. The languid sounds of nu-soul waft through the air, while an army of professionally debonair salesmen stands discreetly by. Suitsupply crafts suits for a discerning but price-savvy customer – the guys who know Super 150 fabrics from Super 110s, full canvas construction from half, but can’t afford Ermenegildo Zegna or Kiton and spring for Paul Smith only when it’s on sale. Willemsparkweg 37-41 eu.suitsupply.com

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GEORGE W.P.A If you’re the sort of foodie who likes a dry Martini with your brunch, George W.P.A won’t disappoint. The fastgrowing hipster restaurant chain offers French cuisine – New York style – in uptown Amsterdam: think eggs Benedict, croque-monsieur and moules frites. Affectionately known as ‘W’, inside is all polished marble and concrete floors, while the terrace is a sun trap and perfect for people watching. Willemsparkweg 74 www.cafegeorge.nl

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STEVE FOSTER (31)

From Australia, works in fi Finance nance

‘I live in the Nieuwmarkt area but I like to xxx come here because it’s quiet and relaxed. It’s more peaceful than my own neighbourhood – and it’s nice to see how the other half lives!’

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SILK

MENNO KROON

All the stalwarts – including Donna Karan, Antik Batik and Armani – are covered at this miniature mall of fashion fantasy, along with one-off jewellery and cult beauty products. Established by Dutch model Silke van der Laan, she sources everything on her regular travels to fashion capitals across the globe. This unique boutique has every-thing you need to add some polish to any shindig.

When it comes to flora and fauna, the Netherlands knows the horticultural game – and extravagant flower shop Menno Kroon is no exception. This dimly lit botanical emporium gets a makeover five times a year, and its traffic-stopping window displays and exotic array of the finest quality blooms make it a destination shopping experience, whether for interior inspiration or a spectacular bouquet.

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Willemsparkweg 95 www.amsterdamsilk.nl

Cornelis Schuytstraat 11 www.mennokroon.nl

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Dark wood floors set the brutishly masculine scene, while furniture and art is pastel-hued for a lighter finish. Suitsupply BAKKER BERTRAM Baking Amsterdammers’ daily bread since 1890, Bakker Bertram bakers believe ’bread deserves attention’. Think: traditional production methods and the very best ingredients. All the basics are covered, as well as a particularly good olive and pesto bread and a selection of superlative pastries and cakes. Cornelis Schuytstraat 34 www.bakker-bertram.nl

JACOB OBRECHT CHURCH

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SHEILA & GIDEON COLLECTIONS One of the biggest names in Dutch fashion, Sheila de Vries is as much loved in her homeland (where celebrities queue to have her dress them) as she is overseas, where her collections have made it into New York’s Saks Fifth Avenue and she was once the face of the American Home Shopping Network. Chic tailored suits combine with glitzy gowns in a boutique that combines classic Dutch design with true international flair.

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Cornelis Schuytstraat 37 www.sheilaengideoncollections.com

&KLEVERING ZUID A treasure trove of colourful, stylish homeware and gifts, &Klevering has a distinctly Dutch design aesthetic. You‘ll find a rainbow of table-ware, plus stainless steel cookware from iittala, lush towels and bathrobes from Vandyck and wooden toys for children. Shop assistant Blanche Defourney recommends stopping by on a Saturday when you can also visit the weekly organic market at Johannes Verhulststraat and Jacob Obrechtstraat. ‘It’s really popular with both locals and visitors.’ Jacob Obrechtstraat 19A www.klevering.nl

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With an abundance of Christmas activity, including popular family carol concerts, the Jacob Obrecht Church is the undeniable heart of the Oud-Zuid community. Standing in all its ecclesiastical glory on the Jacob Obrechtstraat, this red brick, grandiose construct is as welcoming as it may seem initially austere. Sunday services are kid-friendly, while the festive line-up is fruitful for those who seek a dose of classic choir performances with a mince pie or two. Jacob Obrechtstraat 30 www.obrechtkerk.nl

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> EVA ELZINGA (28), WENSLEY NORDEN (41) & BLU (18 MONTHS)

Owner of The Fitting Company modelling agency, & works for 2relocate, relocation agency for internationals

‘Wensley’s on his way to show an apartment to a client, and I’m on my way to the Vondeltuin with Blu – which I highly recommend for kids. When we have a date night, we go to Le Pain Quotidien or George W.P.A. for dinner.’

DAPHNE ZWAAN (41) & INGBRIT PALMERS (41)

From Bergen op Zoom, freelance graphic designer & works in a clothing store

‘We come to Amsterdam every year. We love this area for the exclusive shops – like French Connection and Manwood – and nice restaurants, like Buise. De Joffers is great for a coffee break in between shopping.’

Nudge a little further south of Willemspark and you’re in the heart of residential Oud-Zuid. At its core is Olympiaplein, the sporting square where 30-year old mother of two Fanny Blankers-Koen trained. Labelled the ‘flying housewife’ by the international press of the time, she scooped four gold medals in sprint events at the 1948 London Olympics and was named Female Athlete of the Century by the International Association of Athletics Federations. Today, it houses sports museum The Olympic Experience (www.olympisch stadion.nl). CONTEMPORARY CHIC Today, as from its inception, the Oud-Zuid remains one of the city’s most desirable addresses, its real estate Amsterdam’s most expensive and its residents arguably the most privileged. Amsterdammers dub the area ‘het reservaat’ (the reservation), but you can leave your passport at home – just don’t forget your credit card: some of the fanciest boutiques are to be found here – notably along the PC Hooftstraat. There are equally exclusive dining options – but also less stuffy alternatives, like the recently opened Carter Bar & Kitchen

(Valeriusstraat 85, www.barcarter.nl), a little taste of New York in Old Amsterdam, serving up superlative cocktails and classic bistro fare with a chic twist. Or Ron Gastro Bar (Sophialaan 55, www. rongastrobar.nl), the new concept from Michelin-starred chef Ron Blaauw, where white linens and fine-dining have been exchanged for a purer approach, with small plates costing a maximum of €15. Le 4 Stagioni (Johannes Verhulststraat 32, www.le4stagioni.nl), meanwhile, has been serving what many claim is the best, Roman-style pizza in Amsterdam for some 25 years. But those seeking more rarefied climes needn’t despair: the traditionally exclusive vibe can still be found in Oud-Zuid, and you might spot a few bekende Nederlanders – famous Dutch people – sneaking out of the Bergman Clinics (Willemsparkweg 151 & 142, www. bergmanclinics.nl), where the rich and famous go for a discreet nip and tuck. Or stop by at Brasserie Van Dam (Cornelis Schuytstraat 8-10, www.vandambrasserie. nl), a poshed-up brasserie owned by Dutch celebrity Nicolette van Dam – because like attracts like, don’t you know…

COFFEE CONCEPTS For a caffeine fix with a design twist, the recently opened Coffee Concepts is one of the most buzzing spots in town. Launched by powerhouse PR trio Tedje Fliers and sisters Fabienne and Pelou Bouland, the chic, lofty space is peppered with art by the likes of Skulljan (aka Alljan Moehamad), while the furniture is from industrial vintage emporium Neef Louis. The coffee rivals that of New York’s most caffeine-savvy spots and for every sweet tooth there’s a gluttonous solution, whether the freshly baked forest-fruit cheesecake or the more saintly breakfast granola bars. Work, rest or play (date), this is Oud-Zuid’s latest, greatest addition for yummy mummies and achingly cool hipsters alike.

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Jacob Obrechtstraat 5 www.coffeeconcepts.co

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RIJKSMUSEUM MODERN TIMES 1 November-31 January 2015

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PART III

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After 18 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

CULTURAL CONTROVERSY

I Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

t’s hard to underestimate how seriously Dutch people take their Zwarte Piet (Black Piet). This black-faced, thick-lipped, curlyhaired buffoonish gift-dispensing helper of Sinterklaas has been a beloved figure for generations of Dutch people, whose children wait all year for the annual Amsterdam parade, when Sint sails down the Amstel on his steamboat from Spain accompanied by hundreds of antic-performing, crowd-pleasing Pieten throwing pepernoten (those coin-sized gingerbread-like treats) to the waiting hordes. But with the yearly backlash to Piet’s colonial past becoming as much a rite of the season as the festivities themselves – fuelled in equal parts by changing demographics and changing, less insular, times – the November Intocht van Sinterklaas (or Arrival of Sinterklaas) is, if not quite under threat, at least undergoing an overhaul. Especially Piet. Last year more than two million people ‘liked’ a pro-Zwarte Piet Facebook petition, or Pietition, after the character drew the attention of a UN human rights committee. When Amsterdam mayor Eberhard van der Laan was told by a lower court this summer to reassess the granting of a permit for the parade last year, he lodged an appeal. When assessing a permit, the mayor takes public order and safety into account; he doesn’t decide upon the content of events. He also feels that the discussion shouldn’t be held in the courts, but instead is a social discussion. Anti-Piet campaigners say Zwarte Piet is a racially insensitive caricature of Africans and their descendants, played by white people in blackface. Those who want to keep Piet as he is say he is a much-loved part of the familycentred celebration, and that his face is black

from going down all those chimneys to deliver presents. But the times, they are a-changin’. The Sint celebrations are big business, and while most Dutch chains say they don’t want to get involved in the debate (where they risk alienating some of their customers while being boycotted by others), many are toning down their Piet presence. Supermarket giant Albert Heijn announced that while it will still sell Zwarte Piet chocolate and make-up, he will no longer be used in their advertisements. And while the life-size climbing Pieten of one of Amsterdam’s wellknown department stores will still grace the flagship shop, Piet seems to be holding on for dear life, having lost his hoop earrings and been styled with more neutral hair. But he remains black. Parade Pieten have also lost their earrings, and are expected to have straight hair and less pronounced lips this year. A substantial proportion will only have black sooty smudges on their cheeks – a move, noted the mayor, that takes him from ‘Negroid stereotype’ to a more palatable Piet. He wants to phase in the alterations over the next four years, rejecting, in fine Dutch tradition, ‘drastic change’. Dutch people have a long history in the art of the compromise. But for some, the Zwarte Piet issue goes to the heart of the explosive immigration debate and the persistent xenophobia embodied by politician Geert Wilders. ‘We want to protect our culture,’ Wilders said recently on television. Controversies aside, a stop along the parade route will no doubt be culturally enlightening. Go as a spectator, a reveller or a protestor. But go. You may not have many more chances.

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

MEAT WEST

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Bellamyplein 10 www.meatwest.nl

NEW

he sleek new steakhouse in the much-anticipated De Hallen complex in West plays to its crowd of creatives, locals and out-oftowners from the adjacent Hotel De Hallen. Architect André van Stigt has married minimalist monochrome with original features from the monument’s former life as a tram depot – including concrete floors with tram rails, exposed brickwork, arched olive doors and soaring glass ceilings. The added attractions of the 16,000m2 heritage project, including Amsterdam’s first indoor food market, hip shops, an art-house cinema and convenient bike and car garages, are sure to keep them coming. While the menu also features seafood, chicken, risotto and salads, it’s clear that beef is the star, with five cuts of steak and the house’s special dry ageing box taking pride of place in the dining room. All our questions were expertly answered, but the excessive wait between courses will hopefully improve as early kinks are ironed out. The starter of sticky pork belly with sesame crisps, shaved radish and cucumber was bright in flavour and surprisingly light. The 250g rib-eye (€27.50) combined the layered flavour that only dry ageing brings with a subtle smoky flavour courtesy of a Mibrasa grill. The Béarnaise sauce was beautifully citrusy, the thick-cut fries non-greasy and the vegetable side of sautéed leeks, celery and green beans suitably crisp and tender. Tip for diners on a budget: the 160g ‘lady steak’ (€16) offers great value in a classy setting for an eetcafé price.

eating out

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39 trendy REIN The name is, of course, a play on this lunch spot’s Rijnstraat location, but also means ‘pure’ in Dutch, and with a motto that translates to ‘eat yourself young’, it’s abundantly clear that Rein embraces the current trend for clean eating, with its power-food salads, superfood smoothies and ‘oathies’ (wheat-free sandwiches). We enjoyed a ‘green rehab’, a smoothie with cucumber, basil, apple, spinach and ginger (€4.50), and a substantial lentil salad with goat’s cheese, spinach, dates and mint (€5.50).

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Rijnstraat 58A www.reinfood.nl

critic’s choice CAFÉ DE WALVIS

he Spaarndammerbuurt neighbourhood is still relatively undiscovered– even by Amsterdammers – yet a surprisingly short walk from the touristy Jordaan. The arrival of establishments such as vegan lunchroom DopHert, trendy Bar Mick (see page 41) and French newcomer Bistro Zuidlande have given the neighbourhood a recent and radical renaissance. For its unaffected atmosphere and reasonably priced pub fare, Café de Walvis is a new-found favourite. A recent, casual Friday-night meal in the buzzing bar included a generous appetizer platter (€9) with salmon-topped bruschetta, charcuterie and plenty of grilled vegetables; succulent grilled poussin with crispy Flemish-style fries, traditional Dutch apple sauce and a well-seasoned side salad (€16.50); and a decadent deconstructed tiramisu (€5.50).

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Spaarndammerstraat 516 www.walvis-amsterdam.nl

classic EN PLUCHE

quick & simple SALSA SHOP A taco’s toss from Rembrandtplein, Salsa Shop’s simple salad-bar set-up lets you customise your burrito, taco, burrito bowl or salad. Tacos come four to a plate, overflowing with toppings such as grilled chicken, steak or carnitas (braised, shredded pork), and your choice of sour cream, grated cheese, salad, corn and one of six salsas. We recommend the barbacoa (braised, shredded beef) with yellow habanero salsa (€8.95).

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Amstelstraat 32A http://salsashop.nl

With all that plush red velvet (hence the name), you may feel like a mob movie extra, but don’t let the bordello-esque interior put you off. The flattering lighting is fit for first dates and the cooking is as well rounded as the unfashionably comfortable furniture. Highlights from a recent threecourse meal (€29.50) include salmon sashimi with dashi gel, crisp seaweed and wasabi cream, and baked foie gras with structures of cherry and puffed buckwheat. The lamb main, as tender as a first kiss, came with sprouts, pea purée, pistachios and Turkish pepper sauce. Deconstructed white chocolate cheesecake with Oreo crumbs and tart bloodorange ice cream was a fitting finale. Once the playground of one of the Netherlands’ old-guard chefs, the restaurant is now in the hands of an eager young trio, and their youthful enthusiasm and modern touch shines through. Ruysdaelstraat 48 http://enpluche.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

east-end eateries

pan-asian plates

JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

boozy bites

BOCA’S

STEK

IZAKAYA

This hip gastro bar does two things the Dutch love really well: sandwiches and bar snacks. The former come in the form of bocadillos, in flavours such as beef chimichurri, and the latter as appetiser platters, heaped with charcuterie, seafood or vegetarian bites. Other appetisers include Peking duck spring rolls, dates with blue cheese and bitterballen. Sarphatipark 4; Westerstraat 30 www.bar-bocas.nl

Wibautstraat is arguably Amsterdam’s ugliest street, but undoubtedly one of its trendiest. Recently opened Stek was an instant hit with lunching locals. The décor is an eclectic mix of industrial and vintage finds and the atmosphere easy-going. Stop by for eggy breakfasts, openfaced sourdough sandwiches and seasonal fruit crumbles or linger over wine and local hors d’oeuvres. Wibautstraat 95-97 www.stek-amsterdam.com

These days it’s the beautiful people who add dazzle to this former diamond factory. But, with a menu created by Hariprasad Shetty (formerly of London’s hip Nobu) and options such as jalapeno octopus sashimi and unagi and honey-comb rolls, you’ll be too busy ogling the perfect parade of small plates in this Japanese ‘pub’ to care. Albert Cuypstraat 2-6 www.izakaya-amsterdam.com

MEM’S

WILDE ZWIJNEN

KU KITCHEN & BAR

Wilde Zwijnen’s hearty offering, with plenty of Dutch ingredients such as Beemster duck, local lamb and fish from the North Sea, has attracted foodies to up-andcoming Indische Buurt since 2010. The quirky décor of the popular restaurant includes a wall made of recycled building materials from the site’s renovation and old stable doors for tables. Javaplein 23 www.wildezwijnen.com

This sushi-lover’s sanctum draws its name and inspiration from Tokyo’s 23 wards, with dishes such as ‘duck and roll’, steamed spring rolls with crispy duck served with two dipping sauces. The neon backlit bar with exposed brick walls, industrial lights and wooden workshop stools pumps out pumpkin martinis and other eclectic cocktails to a cool crowd. Utrechtsestraat 114 www.ku114.nl

DIVINO

RIJSEL

DRAGON-I

This intimate little wine bar in popular Jordaan, undoubtedly the city’s most Instagrammed area, keeps us coming back for its outstanding wines and antipasti, sourced directly from small organic farms in Italy. Order a mixed plate of Italian cheese, prosciutto and salami and choose from dozens of Italian wines available by the glass. Boomstraat 41A www.wijnbardivino.nl

This unfailingly excellent insiders’ secret, hidden in an austere former domestic science school in a side street of the Amstel River, was given the Flemish nickname for the northern French city of Lille. Unsurprisingly, the cooking is classically Gallic, from Rijssel’s renowned rotisserie chicken to moist magret de canard and melting moelleux au chocolat. Marcusstraat 52B www.rijsel.com

For affordable pan-Asian street food in a slick setting, head south of Vondelpark. With over 60 shareable items on the menu, ordering can be a daunting task. Go the healthy route with scallop sashimi with yuzu-sesame dressing, or wave the diet goodbye with deep-fried bacon-prawn rolls or Malaysian roti with red curry sauce. Amstelveenseweg 154 www.dragoni-restaurant.nl

Tucked away in a residential part of De Pijp, you’re unlikely to run into many tourists here. They serve excellent Buscaglione coffee and Italian sandwiches at lunchtime, and cocktails such as Jack Daniel’s Lynchburg Lemonade after dark. Try the root veggie bravas with aioli, a surprisingly satisfying vegetarian snack. Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 27 www.facebook.com/ memsterdam

on the menu

BURRATA BONANZA

Cream-filled mozzarella has Amsterdam in its buttery embrace.

ost Dutch diners had never heard of mozzarella’s creamier cousin a few years ago, but the rich Puglian cheese – a pocket of mozzarella filled with fresh cream and shredded mozzarella – can now be found on restaurant menus across the city. At Restaurant Canvas, burrata is served as a starter, with roasted tomatoes, slow-cooked egg yolk, fried basil and linseed crisps. The rich, fresh cheese comes in salad form, with courgette, cherry tomatoes, watercress and rocket, at the popular new Spaarndammerbuurt hangout, Bar Mick. And, it’s served with grilled aubergine, tomato

and rocket at Cafe-Restaurant Amsterdam in a 19th-century waterpumping station. To try it at home, head to L’Amuse, a renowned cheese shop in Zuid – but remember that it must be consumed within a day. RESTAURANT CANVAS Wibautstraat 150, www.canvasopde7e.com BAR MICK Spaarndammerstraat 53H, http://barmick.nl CAFÉ-RESTAURANT AMSTERDAM Watertorenplein 6, www.cradam.nl L’AMUSE Olympiaplein 111, www.lamuse.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card.

REINIER RVDA

text Elisah Jacobs

PRADA

NEW IN TOWN

Once considered something of a wasteland when it came to luxury shopportunities, since Luis Vuitton opened on the ohso-sleek PC Hooftstraat (that’s the ‘pay-say’ to the people who can afford to shop here) in 2002, Amsterdam has seen a, ahem, wealth of luxe brands arrive – including Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Hugo Boss, Dior and Valentino. And now Italian fashion powerhouse Prada.

The new store, designed by Italian architect Roberto Baciocchi, boasts two floors and 550 square metres of pure luxury, where those with unlimited credit limits can shop till they drop. Bedecked in the brand’s signature pale green walls, with lashings of green velvet and sumptuous white marble, on the first floor you’ll find the prêt-à-porter collection, accessories for men and women and – of course – plenty of arm and shoe candy.

Only the lucky few will see the rarefied second floor, entirely covered in plush green velvet and the exclusive preserve of VIP guests… PC Hooftstraat 63 www.prada.com

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eco-friendly BSAB

pop-up GEKAAPT Gekaapt (‘hijacked’) is a travelling circus of brands, designers, entrepreneurs and creatives, taking over different empty stores across Amsterdam from three to six months. Following stints on the Jan Evertsenstraat and the Kinkerstraat, Gekaapt has now made Bilderdijkstraat its temporary home. Dedicated to art, design, food, (vintage) fashion and interiors, Gekaapt sells products by artists, artisans, fashion designers and lifestyle brands such as Brût Amsterdam, Studio JUX, The Material List, Cup of Jo and Dee’s Things. You can also buy coffee (to go). Putting down its anchor for a little longer, Gekaapt stays in the Old West for six months. programme.

Bilderdijkstraat 131 www.gekaapt.nu

When the nights draw in and the season gets festive, we like our evenings candle lit. The scented candles from BsaB not only smell good, they’re also fair trade and eco-friendly – so we can light up with clear consciences. All candles are made of 100 per cent natural ingredients such as pure soy (cleaner, and with a longer burning time) or beeswax (purifies the air) and essential oils. The glass containers are made of recycled glass and even the wicks – made of pure cotton – and the wrapping are recycled and eco-friendly. Added bonus: when you light up a BsaB (meaning ‘Bie-sah-bie’, Thai for ‘welfare’ and ‘prosperity’) you help people in Thailand to become self-sufficient. How much more Christmas spirit do you want? Hartenstraat 4 www.bsab.nl

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shoe valhalla SHOEBALOO This is the place for shoe addicts (especially during the sale). The flagship store on the Leidsestraat reopened last month (October) with new decor designed by interior architect Roberto Meyer, who designed all the Shoebaloo stores. To celebrate Shoebaloo 2.0, the shoe chain launches the ‘Celebration Editions’, a collection customised by designer brands such as Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti and Dolce & Gabbana. If you like, you can buy custom-made heels, boots and sneakers all designed in recognisable ‘Shoebaloo blue’. Or shop the all-pink Moschino Barbie accessory and bag collection designed by Jeremy Scott, which is exclusively for sale at Shoebaloo. Sweet.

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Leidsestraat 8 www.shoebaloo.nl

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The Van Gogh Museum is giving its permanent collection a totally new look, which is centred around Vincent’s development as an artist. Van Gogh’s works, letters, fascinating stories and the artist’s inspiration are presented in a unique way for a true journey through Van Gogh’s world. Get a free guided tour (5x2 people) on Friday, 9 January 2015. Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl/en/whatson/a-new-light-on-van-gogh

©MAAIKE KONING

MEET VINCENT IN A NEW LIGHT

GASSAN DIAMONDS Gassan Diamonds is located in a beautiful restored originally steam-driven diamond factory that was built in 1879. In 2013, more than 400,000 visitors took a tour through the magnificent diamond factory, and in the same year Gassan was declared Best Family Business in the Netherlands by the Family Enterprise Foundation in partnership with KPMG. Visitors can view the diamond polishers at their craft, while multilingual guides explain where diamonds are found and how rough diamonds turn into dazzling brilliants. Loose polished diamonds are shown as well as an elaborate jewellery collection. After the tour you are invited for a free drink in the charming coffee shop in the former boiler house and to browse through the extensive jewellery and watch collection at the Inhouse Boutique, which also features a wide selection of branded watches from JLC, IWC, Omega, Tissot, Longines, Choices by DL and patented Gassan 121 diamonds. Or visit the brand new Rolex Boutique on the premises, the first in the city centre of Amsterdam. 25 lucky A-mag subscribers will receive a €40 voucher towards their purchase. Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 175 www.gassan.com

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for him (M) and her (F). text Elisah Jacobs

what’s in store

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HOPE (M/F)

MHOOM (M/F)

Swedish brand Hope recently opened its first store outside of Scandinavia in the cute-as-a-button Hartenstraat. Not only can you find typical Scandinavian fashion for him and her, but also accessories and homeware. Dutch interior designer Petra Blaisse, from Inside Out, created the clean interior. Don’t forget to check out the Minerit shelves, which look as though they’re floating...

Happy hair, happy you: that’s the spirit of Colette de Groot and Sanne Spaargaren. MHOOM is a hair saloon and fashion store in one, where you can shop sustainable fashion from brands such as L’Herbe Rouge and Studio JUX, cookbooks, music and bags from O My Bag. Hairdresser Colette always knows which haircut suits you best, and uses ‘green’ hair products. Tired of your old jeans? Just leave them here and MHOOM will recycle them for you. How fab is that?

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Hartenstraat 26 http://hope-sthlm.com

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Wibautstraat 20 www.mhoom.com

RUM (F) Amsterdam-based Marloes Otten collects the most beautiful Scandinavian brands such as DAY, By Malene Birger, HunkyDory and Mos Mosh and adds a Dutch flavour – think Dante 6 and Liebeskind – to her curated collection. In her shop in the Nine Streets she focuses on essential basics for every woman’s closet. Dress to impress without the hassle, but with beautiful basics made of silk, wool and leather, which you’ll wear for years without getting bored.

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Huidenstraat 11 www.rum-amsterdam.nl

LOUIS MAXIMILIAN (M/F) In this little warehouse full of hidden treasures you can shop for Christmas: think beautiful coffee-table books, design products and fashion for him and her. We love the funny gadgets, travel books, perfumes, scented candles and stunning shoes. Find brands such as Gian Carlo Rossi, Kuro denim, Laboratorio Olfattivo and Matthew Williamson.

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Haarlemmerdijk 156 http://louismaximilian.nl

THINGS I LIKE THINGS I LOVE (F)

RIVER ISLAND (F) With the opening of competitive brands like Forever 21, Pull and Bear and Urban Outfitters just across the street it was time for a clean-up at River Island. For the opening party the fashion chain locked down British singer-songwriter and Grammy winner Foxes for a great party, along with Dutch fashion blogger Negin Mirsalehi, who gave styling advice.

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Kalverstraat 22-26 www.riverisland.com

A must for vintage junkies, the best thing about this shop is the fantastic selection of second-hand fashion, all tagged with personal stories about the previous owner. Not that into vintage? No worries: Things I Like Things I Love also sells new fashion. You can also find its collection at Hutspot, Beter & Leuk and several festivals and events organised across the country.

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Jan Evertsenstraat 106 www.thingsilikethingsilove.com

GOOD GENES (M/F) Good Genes is a store, showroom and workshop in one, just around the corner of the famous Albert Cuyp Market. Here, you’ll find jeans. Lots of jeans: different styles, different colours, different sizes. Shop for a bleached pair or jeans made of unwashed Japanese denim. Next to lots of jeans you can also shop for shirts, sneakers and winter coats for him and her.

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Albert Cuypstraat 33-35 www.thegoodgenes.com

BULLITT (M/F) At Bullitt – inspired by the eponymous Steve McQueen movie – everyone with a love for retro stuff will feel at home. Next to Seventies tableware and vintage furniture you’ll find designer glasses and clothing. The collection changes every week so there’s always a reason to drop by every once in a while. Watch your wallet! Jan Pieter Heijestraat 91-93 http://bullittamsterdam.nl

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PART IV

THE

nov & dec 2014

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/FAMILY/SPORTS/ GAY & LESBIAN

MARY A WATERS, YOUNG GIRL RED DRESS – GREEN STRIPE, ALWAYS ALWAYS TO BE HERE, GALERIE RAMAKERS

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

PAN AMSTERDAM Gallery hopping is a nice idea, but what if you could trip merrily between some of Europe’s best art dealers under one roof? That’s the idea behind PAN Amsterdam, ‘the art, antiques and design fair of today’. Founded in 1987, the year that Amsterdam was the cultural capital of Europe, the fair has grown in size and renown, and nowadays it draws upwards of 45,000 visitors to the cavernous RAI convention centre every year. Thousands of glorious objets d’art – with prices ranging from €500 to €500,000 – vie for your attention alongside paintings and antiques, all vetted by a panel of experts, so you can buy with confidence. 23-30 November Amsterdam RAI (hall 8), Europaplein www.pan.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS & EVENTS AFFORDABLE ART FAIR As the name of this event suggests, getting your hands on a piece of art no longer has to break the bank: contemporary art – original prints, photographs and sculptures – is on sale for between a few hundred and a few thousand euros. Until 2 Nov, Kromhouthal, Gedempt Hamerkanaal 231, www.affordableartfair.com/ amsterdam. 11.00, various prices

Choice festivals

Haarlemmerstraat 124-126, www.stadsherstel.nl. 11.00, free JAZZFEST AMSTERDAM For the fourth successive year, this multi-band event looks set to serve up a groovy evening of swinging tunes from some of Amsterdam’s favourite jazz bands and artists. Sat 15 Nov, Studio/K, Timorplein 62, www. jazzfestamsterdam.nl. 16.00, €16/€20

to share their passion for design and craftsmanship with the public. Throughout the three days of the event, established masters will stand alongside talented novices. Visitors can buy objects directly from the participating artists, or simply pick their brains about their trade. Fri 28-Sun 30 Nov, Westergasfabriek, www. meesterlijk.nu. 12.00, €10

WINTERS BINNEN SAX 14 Spread over a host of surprising The 14th edition of this locations in Amsterdam-Noord, international saxophone festival this adventurous festival brings four full days of smooth returns for its fifth edition of grooves and jazzy attitudes multidisciplinary fun. Cultural LONDON CALLING to the city, with a programme organisations north of the river UNKNOWN PLEASURES FESTIVAL that’s jam-packed with new unite to organise three days The autumn edition of this Organised in collaboration with The Daily Indie and and established talents like of theatre, music, film and twice-yearly music festival 3voor12, this festival presents a selection of the very Branford Marsalis, James art at locations ranging from helps give Amsterdam’s indie best of today’s underground indie music scene. After Carter and Vincent David. bike shops to snack bars and kids and music lovers an insight warming up with lower-key editions earlier in the year, Thur 20-Sun 23 Nov, local pubs to residential living into what’s happening across Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet rooms. the channel and beyond. this blowout edition sees no less than eight promising Heinkade 1, www.saxfestival.nl. Fri 12-Sun 14 Dec, various Sat 1 Nov, Paradiso, acts take to the stage, including Cheaters, Klarälven Various times & prices locations, www.wintersbinnen. Weteringschans 6-8, www. (pictured), Yuko Yuko, Änimal, The Black Cult, Tears & nl. Various times & prices londoncalling.nl. 18.00, €20 Marble, Moon Tapes and The Breaks. Sat 8 Nov, MC INTERNATIONAL Theater, Polonceaukade 5, www.mconline.nl. 20.00, DOCUMENTARY FILM VALHALLA MUSEUM NIGHT €13.50 FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM The best and brightest On the first Saturday in Every November, IDFA electronic dance initiatives in November every year, about transforms the city centre into a Amsterdam team up to host a 50 museums in Amsterdam paradise for documentary film night (and a long one at that open their doors from 19.00 fans. No other festival in the – this event parties right on to 02.00 to allow visitors to world brings together so many through to 07.30) filled with see Amsterdam’s museums in great films, devoted fans and the biggest names in dance a completely new light – after talented film-makers in one music. Expect an extensive dark. See page 19. place, making IDFA one of the variety of musical styles, from Sat 1 Nov, various locations, world’s leading documentary disco to deep house and from www.museumnachtamsterdam. film festivals. See page 26. techno to club-house. nl. 19.00, €18.50 Wed 19-Sun 30 Nov, various Sat 20 Dec, Amsterdam INTERNATIONAL locations, www.idfa.nl. Various RAI, Europaplein, www. STORYTELLING FESTIVAL times & prices valhallafestival.nl. 22.30, AMSTERDAM €44.50/€49.50 TURN ON THE LIGHTS Celebrating its seventh year AMSTERDAM TANGO WEEK With Turn on the Lights, in 2014, the ISFA has built AMSTERDAM WOOL WEEK NEW YEAR’S EVE Amsterdam’s luxury Warm up the wintery days up a solid name providing a The international CamWhether you’re a party department store, de Bijenkorf, between Christmas and New stage for the best of Dutch and paign for Wool, backed animal or a romantic, young opens the festive season in Year with a fiery dose of international storytellers. brilliant spectacle and festive Argentinian passion. This new Sat 1-Sun 9 Nov, by eco-friendly patron of years or young-at-heart, cheer. Head along for the international tango festival hits various locations, www. Prince Charles, takes over a big spender or on a traditional magical theatrical town with dance workshops, storytellingfestival.nl. Various Amsterdam’s design scene budget, Amsterdam is a show and the illumination performances and talented times & prices as a selection of museums, great city to ring in the New of hundreds of thousands of dancers hailing from all corners shops and designers exhibit Year. The Dutch know how EXPATICA’S ‘I AM NOT A energy-efficient LED lights on of the globe. all things woolly. The main to have a good time and TOURIST’ FAIR the façade of the majestic de Sat 27 Dec-Sun 4 Jan 2015, exhibition, taking place in the capital is a gezellige Bijenkorf building! Beurs van Berlage, Damrak Moving into its 11th year, Fri 21 Nov (TBC), Dam square, 243, www.amsterdam. this event caters to an everPistache on Frederiksplein, (warm and friendly) host. www.debijenkorf.nl. 19.00, free tangoweek.nl. Various times, growing international and provides an overview of The compact, easy to €20/€25 expatriate community. The iconic woollen items from navigate city centre lends AMSTERDAM ART extensive programme includes the past as well as innovaitself particularly well to WEEKEND BROKKENFESTIVAL workshops, performances, tive contemporary designs impromptu street parties, Amsterdam Art Weekend Annual festival that sees Dutch speed dating and a dedicated from artists including Claes and clubs throughout the returns to the city, offering guitarist Corrie van Binsbergen kids’ area, while an enormous Iversen and Bas Kosters. city host events catering art enthusiasts the chance to present highlights from her range of service providers will delve into Amsterdam’s vibrant regular sessions at Zaal 100 – be on hand for a chat. Mon 3-Sun 9 Nov, various to all musical tastes. Tue contemporary art scene to evenings that unite new talent Sun 2 Nov, Beurs van Berlage, locations, www.campaign 31 Dec, various locations, discover (and get their hands with established names in the Damrak 243, www.expatica. forwool.nl. Various times www.iamsterdam.com. on) work by talented young jazz and pop scenes. com. 10.00, free (order tickets & prices Various times & prices artists. See page 21. Sun 28 Dec, Bimhuis, Piet online) Thur 27-Sun 30 Nov, various Heinkade 3, www.bimhuis.nl. KLIK! AMSTERDAM exploring the zone’s special special events. locations, www.amsterdamart. 20.30, €TBA ANIMATION FESTIVAL traits, potential and recent Thur 6-Sun 9 Nov, com/weekend. Various times CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL developments through walking Westergasfabriek, www. & prices One of the city’s most unique tours, exhibitions, lectures and sieraadartfair.com, various Devoted to the enchanting film festivals, KLIK! features AMSTERDAM LIGHT workshops. times, €15 world of chamber music a massive selection of topFESTIVAL Wed 5-Sun 9 Nov, various (kamermuziek in Dutch), this quality animated films that go locations, www.stad-forum.nl/ ANTIQUES, COLLECTIBLES, The Amsterdam Light Festival festival is the brainchild of well beyond Walt’s work. See ART & DESIGN MARKET wvds. Various times & prices (literally) puts the beautiful Dutch cellist Ella van Poucke page 27. Head to this antiques fair to city centre and its canals in the and her brother, pianist Nicolas Tue 4-Sun 9 Nov, EYE SIERAAD ART FAIR delve into a true treasure trove limelight. See page 17. van Poucke. Now entering its Filmmuseum, IJpromende The 13th edition of this of (vintage) design, intriguing Thur 27 Nov-Sun 18 Jan fifth year, the 2014 edition 1, www.klikamsterdam.nl. renowned jewellery fair is set art-deco objects, porcelain, 2015, various locations, www. once again unites international Various times & prices to be the most international silver, jewellery, collectibles amsterdamlightfestival.com. musicians to celebrate the WEEK OF THE CITY yet, featuring more than 100 and much more. Once you’ve Various times & prices centuries-old genre. jewellery designers from dozens picked up your new collector’s Tue 30 Dec-Thur 1 Subtitled Discover the Ring, MEESTERLIJK of countries. In addition to item, you can even get it Jan 2015, Amstelkerk, this week-long festival shopping for and admiring professionally appraised Annual event allowing product, Amstelveld 10, www. invites you to take a fresh the designs, visitors can join a for free. fashion & food designers, amermuziekfestivalamsterdam. look at the zone surrounding number of presentations and Fri 7-Sun 9 Nov, Posthoornkerk, craftspeople and diverse artists com. Various times & prices Amsterdam’s A10 ring road,

nov & dec 2014

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ POP & JAZZ LONDON CALLING Check out rising stars and catch a few older guitar warriors at this popular celebration of indie culture. Bigger names tonight include Sebadoh and Spoon, but the experience is as much about the names you don’t yet recognise. Sat 1 Nov, Paradiso, 18.30, €20 CARO EMERALD This popular Dutch songstress has recently started to break internationally thanks to the success of her newest record The Shocking Miss Emerald. Sun 2 Nov, Royal Theatre Carré, 19.30, €29-€40

Grannis won the ‘Best Web-Born Artist’ title at the 2011 MTV Music Awards. At last count, she’s still a force to be reckoned with on YouTube where her channel has over a million subscribers. Wed 5 Nov, Melkweg, 19.30, €15 BILL WYMAN AND THE RHYTHM KINGS The former Rolling Stones bassist is out on the road again with his band The Rhythm Kings. They’ll be joined by Supremes vet Mary Wilson for a show that’s chock full of crowdpleasing blues, rock and soul. Thur 6 Nov, Melkweg, 19.30, €35

KASABIAN Since the late ’90s, these British rockers have been tweaking JAMES YORKSTON a sound that falls somewhere between The Stone Roses and Something of a Scottish Primal Scream. 2014 saw the troubadour, Yorkston has slowed down in recent years, finding fine release of 48:13, their fifth studio album, coinciding with an form, collaborating with a host of indie and folk names (most prolifically with KT Tunstall, who appears throughout his newest record) and reflecting on life in rural, coastal Scotland. Sun 2 Nov, Vondelkerk, 21.00, €12.50

from the surface. Sat 8 Nov, Bimhuis, 20.30, €17-€20 BOB MOULD Mould’s done time in legendary acts like Hüskur Dü and Sugar, bringing together the worlds of hard-core punk, indie and pure pop. Nowadays, the singer-songwriter is enjoying a prolific solo career. In addition to penning the theme song for The Daily Show, he’s cranked out over a dozen studio albums. Mon 10 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20.30, €20 UB40 REUNITED This UK band’s covers of songs like ‘Red Red Wine’ and ‘Falling in Love’ have made them permanent fixtures on soft-rock radio stations. Frontman Ali Campbell departed in 2008 but now he’s reconvened with fellow founding members Astro and Mickey Virtue to get the pop-

Choice pop & jazz

MESHELL NDEGEOCELLO This American star veers from funk and soul to hip hop and jazz, pioneering in the neo-soul movement and racking up loads of awards and critical acclaim. This tour sees her showcasing newest album, Comet, Come to Me. Sun 2 Nov, North Sea Jazz Club, 21.00, €21 TY SEGALL This genre-crossing American garage rocker has built up a solid name for his energising live shows. He got started on a solo career in 2008 and he’s already cranked out eight albums. Mon 3 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, €13 STEREO MCS The iconic British dance and hip-hop outfit is getting back to basics. They’re best known for their early ’90s heyday, which included block-rockin’ hits like ‘Ground Level’ and ‘Step It Up’. At this show, they’ll perform their infamous 1992 album Connected in its entirety. Tue 4 Nov, Melkweg, 19.00, €24 AMP FIDDLER The multi-talented Joseph ‘Amp’ Fiddler is a seasoned vet when it comes to jazzy funk. The Detroit native started out as a keyboardist for ParliamentFunkadelic and he’s collaborated with Prince, J Dilla and many more top talents since. Wed 5 Nov, Bimhuis, 20.30, €15-€18 GEORGE EZRA Bluesy pop star du jour in the UK, the young singer-songwriter is currently riding high on ‘Budapest’, his debut single that landed earlier this year. Wed 5 Nov, Melkweg, 19.00, €19 KINA GRANNIS This American singer is heading back to Amsterdam for another night of covers and love songs.

Elvis Costello) returns to the Amsterdam stage – for once with his trio rather than his band Ceramic Dog. The focus is on his jazzy roots, playfully interacting with acoustic bassist Henry Grimes and Chicago drummer Chad Taylor. Wed 12 Nov, Bimhuis, 20.30, €17-€20 VIDEO GAMES LIVE Who said gamers were an antisocial bunch? Devised by composer and legend of the gaming world Tommy Tallarico, this multimedia event combines famous tunes performed by a complete symphonic orchestra and choir with images of the respective games on giant screens. See page 23. Wed 12 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €35-€60 BONAPARTE/TIM FITE The wild and weird members of Bonaparte hail from no less than four continents. Their eclectic sounds are best described as a ‘musical circus’. Meanwhile, their live shows, which often feature stripping and fire stunts, are definitely worthy of the big top. Thur 13 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, €14 KENNY WAYNE SHEPHERD Blues to the bone, this American riffer owes his career to Stevie Ray Vaughan, who he encountered as a child back in 1984. As a touring blues guitarists he’s played with most of the living legends who preceded him, racking up a row of popular albums in the process. Thur 13 Nov, North Sea Jazz Club, 21.00, €25

JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE CONCERTGEBOUW Get in the swing for Christmas with a seasonal show by Amsterdam’s biggest and best jazz crew. Every December they hit the road with special guests and surprises, with legendary singer Kurt Elling (pictured) from Chicago joining this time round. He has a voice as delicious as hot chocolate on Christmas Eve and has the stage presence to match. So if you prefer your festive tunes to hark back to the days of crooners like Nat King Cole, Bing Crosby or, erm, Michael Buble, you’re sure to love this experience. Wed 10 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €21-€56 impressive headlining set at the Glastonbury Festival. Thur 6 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €35 BLACK BANANAS Vibrant singer-songwriter Jennifer Herrema has fronted crazy rock acts like Royal Trux and RTX. Black Bananas, her current project, is an equally mad mix of funk, synth-pop and trash metal. Sat 8 Nov, Paradiso, 22.00, €10 THE GLOAMING A new Irish folk super group with a Transatlantic twist, The Gloaming are breaking new ground, stretching the boundaries of the genre and veering near to jazz and classical. Clearly influenced by the old traditions and the joy of the fiddle, their performances are virtuoso yet subtle, powerful yet controlled, with beautiful, celebratory melodies never far

COUNTING CROWS They were one of America’s biggest bands in the ’90s thanks to radio-friendly hits like ‘Mr Jones’ and ‘Round Here’ from debut album August and Everything After. With their definitive blend of Americana and pop, the group has always been hugely popular in Amsterdam, even recording a live album at this very venue in 2006. Fri 14 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €49

Music’ and her tunes recall the likes of Bob Dylan and Leonard Cohen. She’ll roll out songs off her latest release, Young Man in America. Sun 16 Nov, Paradiso, 16.00, €10 THE BAD PLUS Thanks to their infinite supply of daring, it could easily be said that The Bad Plus are a jazz band for music fans afraid of jazz. From Nirvana to Stravinsky, this trio will try their hand at just about anything. They have an outstanding live reputation too, showing all the coolness and confidence of any hyped rock star, but with more musical chops. Sun 16 Nov, Bimhuis, 20.30, €20-€28 TOUMANI DIABATÉ & SIDIKI This star from Mali is one of the finest players of the kora in the world today. On this tour he’s performing with his son Sidiki, having recently released an exceptionally pretty father and son record together. Mon 17 Nov, Bimhuis, 20.30, €18-€22 ENRIQUE IGLESIAS The living legend returns to Amsterdam. Iglesias won’t celebrate his 40th birthday until next year but he’s already netted an astounding 70 number one rankings on various Billboard charts. Tue 18 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, €59-€75 COMMON This Chicago native burst out of the hip-hop underground in the late ’90s after joining forces with The Soulquarians. Since then, he’s been racking up Grammy Awards when he’s not acting in films like American Gangster. His tenth solo album, Nobody’s Smiling, dropped earlier this year. Wed 19 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, €35

GRAMATIK The Slovenian musical maestro is coming back to town. Gramatik sold out the Melkweg’s ‘Old Hall’ last May and he’ll likely repeat the feat this time around. Amsterdam hip-hop fans can’t reggae show back on the road. get enough of his catchy material, BANKS Mon 10 Nov, Melkweg, which mixes electro with jazz, 19.30, €45 Aka Jillian Rose Banks, this LAfunk and soul. based singer-songwriter has been Wed 19 Nov, Melkweg, 19.30, €14 LLOYD COLE landing on all sorts of ‘Best New LENNY KRAVITZ Cole and his former band Artists’ lists in recent months. The Commotions released Her dark and moody brand of Kravitz collaborated with Rattlesnakes, one of the best R&B has been compared to the Madonna and Aerosmith before debut albums of the ’80s, before music of Feist and Erykah Badu hitting the big time with his 1993 he struck out on his own. His with a 2014 twist. mega-album Are You Gonna Go most recent solo release is 2013’s Sat 15 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, €17 My Way. Standards. Wed 19 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, THE GASLIGHT ANTHEM Mon 10 Nov, Amstelkerk, €53-€59 21.00, €20 Since forming in 2006, this BOMBAY BICYCLE CLUB New Jersey act has gone from LITTLE DRAGON cranking out pop punk to Folky English indie boys with an Back in 2011, the hit song ‘Ritual composing stadium-friendly rock impressive sense of melody. On Union’ made this Swedish band anthems. Their latest release is the go for around seven years a household name in their native Get Hurt, which mixes a slightly already, whether they’re being land. Their dreamy electro pop folksy vibe with their patented acoustic or noisy, they always incorporates elements of R&B, blend of power cords and catchy demonstrate a clear pop aesthetic. electronica and dance music. choruses. Thur 20 Nov, Paradiso, Tue 11 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, Sat 15 Nov, Heineken Music 20.30, €17 €18.50 Hall, 19.00, €32 MARIANNE FAITHFUL MARC RIBOT TRIO ANAÏS MITCHELL This star has seen it, done it Acclaimed guitarist Marc Ribot Mitchell has been dubbed the and lived it. This tour actually (performs with Tom Waits, ‘Queen of Contemporary Folk celebrates her career of 50 years,

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ / CLASSICAL which kicked off in 1964 as an innocent folk singer. In the years since she’s worked with everyone from Emmylou Harris to Metallica. Sun 23 Nov, Royal Theatre Carré, 19.00, €39-€48 SLASH Someday, this guitar god will let bygones be bygones and reunite with Axl Rose for a triumphant Guns ‘n’ Roses reunion tour. Until that happens, metal fans will have to settle for Slash’s various solo efforts. At this show, he’ll be joined by singer Myles Kennedy and backing band The Conspirators. Mon 24 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €49 THE SPECIALS This legendary British ska band got back together in 2008 and they’ve been touring to delirious audiences ever since. With a back catalogue filled with tons of hits like ‘Ghost Town’ and ‘Too Much Too Young’, the room will be bouncing and skanking. Wed 26 Nov, Melkweg, 19.30, €39 ANGUS & JULIA STONE This Aussie brother-and-sister duo are renowned for their sunny melodies and catchy folk tunes. In recent years they’ve been keeping busy individually, with a variety of ideas in solo projects, but their recent self-titled release brought the duo back together, scoring their biggest international hit in the process. Wed 26 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €32.50 LAMB Along with Massive Attack and Portishead, Lamb is synonymous with the ’90s trip-hop and electronic scene in the UK. The duo’s sixth album, Backspace Unwind, is slated for release this autumn. Thur 27 Nov, Paradiso, 20.30, €22 THE RURAL ALBERTA ADVANTAGE The music of this Canadian trio falls somewhere between Arcade Fire and Mumford & Sons. It’s a wide gap but one they easily bridge on their new album, Mended With Gold. Thur 27 Nov, Paradiso, 22.00, €8.50 THE HORRORS The Horrors’ dark anthems, which combine gothic new-wave with garage rock, have made them staples on the UK Top 40 in recent years and a live favourite. Thur 27 Nov, Melkweg, 19.30, €17.50 MERCHANDISE This chaotic group once specialised in noise, distortion and a substantial amount of mayhem. They’ve since switched gears and now create a varied array of tidy, crisp songs that deviate between krautrock, balladry and 1980s synth pop. Fri 28 Nov, Paradiso, 20.00, €9 SHANTEL & BUCOVINA CLUB ORKESTAR Shantel is one of the driving

forces behind the Balkan craze. His infectious tracks mash together 21st-century club beats with polka, traditional Slavic music and other eastern European genres. Wed 3 Dec, Melkweg, 19.30, €17.50 THE WATERBOYS Mike Scott’s The Waterboys have been on the go now for some 30 years, give or take the odd hiatus and solo career. Now they’re enjoying a bit of a resurgence, showcasing old hits like ‘The Whole of the Moon’ and ‘Fisherman’s Blues’, as well as new material from a promised new album. Fri 5 & Sat 6 Dec, Paradiso, 20.30, €32

BOYZ II MEN Motownphilly is back again... again. This American R&B group stormed the charts with Cooleyhighharmony, their 1991 debut. If you attended a highschool disco in the early ’90s, there’s a good chance you slow danced to their inescapable hit singles like ‘It’s So Hard to Say Goodbye to Yesterday’ or ‘End of the Road’. Wed 10 Dec, Melkweg, 20.00, €35 LA ROUX The mesmerising Elly Jackson fronts this snyth-pop solo act from London. La Roux’s songs recall ’80s new wave and her debut album, a collaborative effort with acclaimed producer Ben Langmaid, earned her a

Choice pop & jazz

KATE TEMPEST Proving that looks can be extremely deceptive, if you met this young English woman and learned she was a musician, you’d be forgiven for assuming her to be a gentle folk singer-songwriter. Instead she’s a sharp-mouthed modern hip-hop songstress who never trips over a phrase. Making the move from spoken word to bass-heavy tunes fairly recently, her debut album comes across like pure theatre – its sharp narrative grabs your full attention, guiding you through the lives of very real youths in urban England and offers beats to match. Fri 21 Nov, Paradiso, 22.00, €9 THE KILKENNYS ‘Whiskey in the Jar’ and ‘The Wild Rover’ are among the ageold tunes that have been given new life by this Irish folk band. They’ve racked up millions of views on YouTube and have brought their bodacious balladry to stages all the way from Las Vegas to the Czech Republic. Sun 7 Dec, People’s Place, 20.30, €14 BRYAN ADAMS He’s been waking up the neighbours since at least the early ’90s. Hits like ‘Summer of ‘69’ and ‘(Everything I Do) I Do It For You’ have made Adams a soft-rock legend. Mon 8 Dec, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, €39-€54

THE NEW PORNOGRAPHERS The New Pornographers and their explicitly pop tunes have attracted a wide following since they first got together in 1999. It’s little surprise given that this Canadian indie-rock super group is comprised of musicians who also record and perform with popular acts like Destroyer and AC Newman, and are often joined by country singersongwriter Neko Case, too. Their latest album is titled Brill Bruisers, which perfectly represents the bruising, colourful power pop they specialise in. Sun 7 Dec, Melkweg, 20.00, €16 Grammy Award in 2011. Wed 10 Dec, Paradiso, 20.30, €15

focuses heavily on songs from Every 2nd Friday of the month, Led Zeppelin IV and Houses Amsterdam City Archives, 17.00 of the Holy, two of the original BERIO’S SINFONIA band’s most iconic albums. Sat 13 Dec, Melkweg, 20.30, €20 Conductor Otto Tausk leads a performance that features WAR OF THE WORLDS Luciano Berio’s ‘Sinfonia’. The Black Smoke Band leads this Back in the late ’60s, this electrifying tribute to HG Wells’ landmark symphony helped classic sci-fi novel, with 2014 usher in the postmodern era of marking the 75th anniversary of classical music. Orson Welles’ infamous War of Sat 1 Nov, Concertgebouw, the Worlds broadcast. Among the 14.15, €31-€36 show’s innovative features: a 3D KCOV EXCELSIOR SINGS hologram of actor Liam Neeson BRAHMS and a colossal, fire-spewing ‘Martian War Machine’ that The acclaimed vocal choir towers over the stage. will take on one of Johannes Tue 16 Dec, Heineken Music Brahms’ greatest masterpieces Hall, 20.00, €55-€62 at this concert. The composer’s ‘Ein Deutsches Requiem’ is SOUNDS OF THE SOUTH considered one of the finest Singer-songwriter Matthew E works to emerge from the White and Bon Iver frontman Romantic movement. Justin Vernon typically lead Tue 4 Nov, Concertgebouw, this folk-rock collective. Due to 20.15, €33-€39 personal reasons, Vernon had to AAA. 1914, A CENTURY bow out from this show, but his LATER colleagues are sure to deliver a memorable evening of mesmeric This year marks the 100th folk and roots music. anniversary of the beginning Tue 16 Dec, Paradiso, of World War 1. Join violinist 20.30, €27.50 Janine Jansen and the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra DEUS as they explore several 20thTom Barman leads this Antwerp- century composers’ symphonic based rock outfit – undoubtedly responses to the conflict. The one of Belgium’s biggest musical programme includes works exports. The band returned from by Debussy, Janácek and a a lengthy hiatus in 2004 and commission by star Dutch they continue to draw a devoted composer Michel van der Aa. cult following. Thur 6 & Fri 7 Nov, Wed 17 & Thur 18 Dec, Paradiso, Concertgebouw, various times, 20.30, €29 €20.25-€46

CLASSICAL CLASSICAL LUNCHTIME CONCERTS Who said there’s no such thing as a free lunch (concert)? The Royal Concertgebouw’s lunchtime concerts are exactly that, showcasing everything from young, upcoming talent to chamber music and public rehearsals by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – in fact, those Amsterdam heroes will be hosting open rehearsals on 12 Nov & 3 Dec. It’s advisable to show up at least half an hour in advance to guarantee entry. Every Wed, Concertgebouw, 12.30, free NOORDERKERK CONCERTS From September through May, Amsterdam’s Noorderkerk hosts a one-hour classical concert every Saturday afternoon. Situated in one of the oldest and most charming parts of the city, the Noorderkerk is an idyllic setting for a classical matinee. Every Sat, Noorderkerk, 14.00

TRIGGERFINGER These Belgian rockers are as well known for their power anthems as they are for their cool suits and sharp fashion sense. In fact, Triggerfinger have become a staple on the European rock-fest circuit and their smashing live sets plug a hole similar to the internationally popular Queens of the Stone Age. Fri 12 Dec, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €32

LUNCH CONCERT & TOUR Free monthly performance in collaboration with the Nationaal Muziekinstrumenten Fonds. Tours of the concert hall take place before the performance. Tue 25 Nov & 16 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 12.30, free

LETZ ZEP The UK-based Letz Zep have wowed fans on no less than four continents. Their current tour

WELTKLASSIK Every second Friday of the month the City Archives presents a classical recital.

ROMEO AND JULIET Alongside images from the silent-film era, the Netherlands Wind Ensemble will perform selections from Prokofiev’s ballet version of the infamous Shakespearean tragedy. Thur 6 & Fri 7 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €28-€35 ERIK SATIE FESTIVAL Enjoy 12 hours of Satie and more, featuring Reinbert De Leeuw, Kees Wieringa, Duo Martin Grudaj & Erik Le Cornu Huele, Sandip Bhattacharya, Eske Tibben, Duo Passies & Havinga, plus a film screening. Sat 8 Nov, Amstelkerk, 12.00, €27 AMSTERDAMS BACH CONSORT This Amsterdam ensemble returns to this church every autumn to tackle a specific theme. This year it’s ‘Bach in Estonia’, resulting in the inclusion of three contemporary works by Arvo Pärt. Sun 9 Nov, De Duif, 15.15, €TBA THE CLASSICAL PROMS The latest entry in the beloved series features the Bach Choir and Orchestra of the Netherlands along with an eclectic programme that spans the centuries. Following in the footsteps of the Brits there might even be a bit of Land of Hope & Glory to close proceedings. Sun 9 Nov, Concertgebouw, 19.30, €50-€75 ULTIMATE DUO Cellist Daniel Müller-Schott

nov & dec 2014

MUSIC/CLASSICAL and pianist Simon Trpceski are teaming up for this show. With their powers combined, they’ll perform Beethoven’s ‘Sonata in D’ and much more. Tue 11 Nov, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €10-€48 APOCALYPTICA They’re one of the world’s most popular cello ensembles and they just so happen to be a heavymetal band as well, initially making their name covering Metallica songs. Come see Finland’s Apocalyptica rock this modern classical space, playing some old-school rock, covers and material from their upcoming album. Tue 11 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 21.00, €17.50-€25 THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA & ROBIN TICCIATI The British conductor will lead a programme featuring some of the best French symphonies of all time at this series of concerts with the acclaimed Amsterdam orchestra. They’re joined by Latvian mezzo-soprano Elina Garanca. Wed 12-Fri 14 Nov, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €10-€97.50 CHE AND HO CHI MINH The infamous 1968 world premiere of Hans Werner Henze’s ‘Das Floss der Medusa’ was cancelled after student protesters interrupted it. Conductor Markus Stenz leads this tribute to the politically charged symphony. Sat 22 Nov, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €31-€36 PORGY AND BESS The Philips Symphony Orchestra & Philharmonic Choir is coming together for this epic concert, performing several selections from Gershwin’s tragic American folk opera. Sat 22 Nov, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €32.50-€37.50 OPERA PER TUTTI! Regular opera sessions in the beautiful Vondelkerk. Each performance typically includes five or six operatic fragments or arias – some you’ll know inside out, others may be new to you. Sat 22 Nov & Sun 21 Dec, Vondelkerk, 15.00, €20 AMIHAI GROSZ & THE CONCERTGEBOUW CHAMBER ORCHESTRA The versatile violinist joins the renowned orchestra for this concert. The programme includes selections by Schubert and Brahms. Sun 23 Nov, Concertgebouw, 11.00, €10-€25 LANG LANG The Chinese piano virtuoso will host two events at the Concertgebouw this November. He’ll be joined by over 100 young pianists for a gigantic musical party at the first of them. The second is a more conventional concert featuring works by Chopin and Mozart. Sun 23 (15.30) & Mon 24 Nov (20.15), Concertgebouw, €10-€95

Choice classical

ANDRÉ RIEU The world-famous conductor returns to Amsterdam for another of his colossal stadium extravaganzas. Join him and the Johann Strauss Orchestra as they blast through some of history’s most legendary symphonies and room-shaking waltzes. If you’ve never experienced his world-renowned orchestra previously, to put it simply, Rieu is the classical equivalent of AC/DC or Armin van Buuren, equalling the musical bombast with colourful productions, surprises and special guests. Thur 13 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, €50-€90

WINGS Set during WWI and filmed in 1927, this romantic action movie starring Clara Bow won the first Academy Award for Best Picture in 1929 – the only silent film ever to do so. Two young men are in love with the same woman. Soon, however, they have other priorities, when the First World War breaks out. This timely screening, 100 years on from the beginning of the war, pairs the eye-catching film with a 21st-century percussive and electronic soundtrack, performed live by Ruben Cooman, Tom de Cock and Yves Goemaere. Wed 10 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€25 OLGA MALKINA A piano recital from the RussianDutch musician, performing works by Rachmaninoff, Scriabin, Prokofiev and Shchedrin. Sun 23 Nov, Amstelkerk, 15.00, €15 TRACKS. THANKSGIVING These two multimedia concerts will offer attendees a hearty helpin’ of several Thanksgivingthemed works composed by vocalist Nora Fischer and Fuse, the eclectic string ensemble. Wed 26 & Thur 27 Nov, Concertgebouw, 21.00, €10-€25

RHAPSODIC JOURNEY During this series of performances, conductor Mariss Jansons, Russian pianist Denis Matsuev (pictured) and the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra will take the audience on an international tour of a few of the world’s greatest rhapsodies – some of which are more recognisable than you’d imagine. The programme includes ‘stops’ in Spain, Hungary and several more musical ports of call. Look out for Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue as a particular showstopper. Wed 17, Thur 18 & Sun 21 Dec, Concertgebouw, various times, €30-€122.50 VERDI’S MESSA DA REQUIEM Verdi’s grand symphony was penned as a tribute to Italian author Giuseppe Manzoni and necessitates a substantial amount of performers to do it justice. Come see what happens when conductor Chosei Komatsu and a small army of musicians and vocalists attempt to tame this colossal masterpiece. Wed 26 Nov, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €40-€55 MAHLER 6 Daniele Gatti will conduct Mahler’s Sixth Symphony at each of these three performances

with the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. The 1906 work is one of the composer’s most personal masterpieces. Thur 27, Fri 28 & Sun 30 Nov, Concertgebouw, various times, €30-€122.50

It includes the Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra and a few of Bach’s most enchanting symphonies. Tue 16 Dec, Concertgebouw, 19.30, €30-€78

CHRISTMAS CONCERT This festive performance features the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and violinist Caroline Goulding. Thur 11 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €12.50-€48.50

ROBERT HENKE The Berlin-based inventor/ techno maestro returns to Amsterdam with Lumière, his latest project. The multimedia extravaganza combines electronic melodies with an innovative laser light show. Fri 19 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 19.00, €17.50-€22

ERARD ENSEMBLE ORCHESTRA OF THE 18TH The Erard Ensemble is comprised CENTURY of string soloists from the Royal Noblemen and commoners alike Concertgebouw Orchestra, lined up for hours to witness the the Radio Philharmonic premiere of Händel’s ‘Music for Orchestra and the Netherlands the Royal Fireworks’ back in the Philharmonic Orchestra, spring of 1749. It’s just one of the plus pianist Edward Janning, selections featured at this concert specialising in romantic classical led by conductor Kenneth music performed on authentic Montgomery. instruments. This evening sees Tue 2 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t them offer up some atmospheric IJ, 20.15, €10-€35 treats for the festive season. Tue 16 Dec, Amstelkerk, TO THE MEMORY OF 20.15, €18 AN ANGEL ENNIO MORRICONE Violinist Leonidas Kavakos joins the Royal Concertgebouw You may not directly connect Orchestra at this concert his name to traditional classics featuring Alban Berg’s Violin but you’ve definitely been Concerto. The 1935 piece, which moved by his works. Morricone’s was subtitled ‘To the Memory compositions have appeared of an Angel’, honours the tragic in dozens of films including death of Manon Gropius. For a Few Dollars More, The Wed 3 & Thur 4 Dec, Untouchables and Kill Bill. He’ll Concertgebouw, 20.15, be joined by a 75-piece orchestra €25-€97.50 tonight as part of his ‘The 50 Years of Music’ tour. NETHERLANDS & SWEDEN. Wed 17 Dec, Ziggo Dome, 400 YEARS 20.00, €35-€85 2014 marks four centuries DUTCH CHAMBER CHOIR of diplomatic relations + CONCERTO COPENHAGEN between these two nations. This performance, which One of Europe’s best baroque features acclaimed violinist ensembles will join up with Anna Larsson, celebrates that the acclaimed choir for this milestone with several works Christmas concert, performing penned by some of history’s best Bach’s Weihnachtsoratorium. Swedish and Dutch composers. Wed 17 & Thur 18 Dec, Tue 9 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50 19.30, €10-€46

IT’S ABOUT TIME… American conductor David Robertson will take the helm of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra for this timely performance. The programme is loaded with works that address concepts ranging from history to eternity. Fri 12 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €20.25-€46 CHRISTMAS CLASSICS The title says it all. Conductor Antony Hermus and violinist Alena Baeva lead this performance, which features some of the most holiday-centric works of Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky. Sat 13 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.30, €35-€49 WEIHNACHTSORATORIUM WITH THE AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK BERLIN The world-renowned baroque ensemble will take centre stage at this holiday concert featuring tenor James Gilchrist and conductor Martin Lehmann. Sun 14 Dec, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €35-€79.50 TON KOOPMAN The legendary conductor leads this Christmas performance.

CHRISTMAS CONCERT Pianists Cor Bakker and Louis van Dijk are at the forefront of these two holiday concerts devoted to seasonal works that include the likes of Vivaldi’s ‘Winter’. Fri 19 (20.15) & Sun 21 Dec (19.30), Concertgebouw, €50-€75 WHALE CITY SOUND One of Amsterdam’s cosiest churches hosts this all-male, 60-member show choir that mixes barbershop harmonies with hits of the ’50s and ’60s. And just how are they going to fit all of those blokes in there? You’ll have go and find out for yourself. Sat 20 Dec, De Duif, 14.30 & 20.00, €21 HAARLEM VOICES. IN A CHRISTMAS MOOD Haarlem Voices is one of the best vocal choirs in the Netherlands. Together with conductor Sarah Barrett, they’ll perform a series of timeless holiday classics. Sat 20 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €35

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/CLASSICAL ESSENTIALS. RHAPSODIES Mariss Jansons will conduct the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra at this concert devoted to three classical rhapsodies, including Ravel’s Rapsodie espagnole. Sat 20 Dec, Concertgebouw, 21.00, €19.15-€50 A RUSSIAN CHRISTMAS. SNOW & SLEIGH BELLS The Don KosakenChor Russland, along with conductor Marcel Verhoeff Nicolajevich, will celebrate the season, Russian style, at this Christmas pageant. They’ll perform works by Tchaikovsky along with other festive selections. Sun 21 Dec, Concertgebouw, 11.00, €16-€25 THE NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY. WEIHNACHTSORATORIUM Conductor Monika Mauch, soprano Meg Bragle and other special guests will join the ensemble at this Christmas concert featuring the works of Bach and Biber. Mon 22 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 19.30, €37-€46 CHRISTMAS DREAMS FROM VIENNA The New Romanian Chamber Orchestra & Choir will lead the latest edition of the Ave Maria Christmas Concert series. This year’s performance includes vocalists Elisabeta Marin and Aura Twarowska, along with some of the best Austrian and Romanian Christmas music of all time. Tue 23 Dec, Concertgebouw, 14.30, €39.50-€41.50 CHRISTMAS EVE AT THE CONCERTGEBOUW An annual Christmas Eve service will once again be held at the world-famous concert hall. Be sure to arrive early to guarantee entry. Wed 24 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.00, free CHRISTMAS MATINEE Conductor Mariss Jansons helms this special Christmas afternoon performance along with Austrian soprano Anna Prohaska and the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. Mahler’s Fourth is at the heart of this one. Thur 25 Dec, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €30-€122.50 WIEN BLEIBT WIEN The scintillating programme at this concert features some of the most famous melodies of the masters of the Viennese operetta. Conductor Jeroen Weierink is joined by the Habsburgs Strauss Orchestra and vocalists Natalya Kraevsky and Morschi Franz. Fri 26 Dec, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €32.50-€37.50 PARADISO ORCHESTRA Comprised of top players from the city’s classical scene, the Paradiso Orchestra has built up a reputation for its enticing but more informal performances in this historic pop temple. During this

matinee performance they’ll mix up some seasonal classics, sing-a-long moments and humour – and undoubtedly some glühwein cooking in the corner. Fri 26 Dec, Paradiso, 16.00, €25 WIBI SOERJADI’S CHRISTMAS GALA Back in the early ’90s, this stellar pianist hosted his first Christmas show in the Concertgebouw. It’s since become a beloved holiday tradition. This year’s edition features works by Chopin, Rachmaninoff and more. Soerjadi will also perform a New Year-themed concert on the 28th. Fri 26 & Sun 28 Dec, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €59-€79 BLUE PLANET Following the successful arena tours of Frozen Planet and Planet Earth, this live performance pairs up the beautiful cinematography of the BBC’s Blue Planet series with a sweeping symphony soundtrack performed by the 80-piece Gelders Orchestra. Dramatic and dazzling, it’ll please the entire family. Sat 27 Dec, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, €29.50-€69.50 ADDRESSES Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 https://stadsarchief. amsterdam.nl Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 http://bimhuis.nl Bourbon Street Leidsekruisstraat 6-8 www.bourbonstreet.nl De Duif Prinsengracht 756 http://deduif.net Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl Noorderkerk Noordermarkt 48 www.noorderkerk.org North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl People’s Place Stadhouderskade 5 www.peoplesplace amsterdam.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carre Amstel 115 /125 https://carre.nl Tolhuistuin Tolhuisweg 5 www.tolhuistuin.nl Vondelkerk Vondelstraat 120 www.vondelkerk.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE REGULAR EVENTS CHEEKY MONDAY Amsterdam’s weekly cult drum & bass feast that sees international turntablists mingle with Warmoestraat’s regular drum freaks. They like their tunes hard and bass heavy. Every Mon, Winston Kingdom, from 21.00, BLACK BOX Diverse dance sounds from cutting-edge guests every week. Every Wed, Studio 80 from 23.00 PARDI GRAS Get over that midweek slump with a Wednesday night party without pretentions. Every Wed, Paradiso, from 23.30

uncompromising blend of live performances and DJs, with Amsterdam’s hottest party promoters taking turns to showcase the diversity of the arts. Every Sat, MC Theater, from 23.00

Also playing are Paul Woodford, Sidney Charles and Miss Melera, among many others. Sat 5 Jul, Zuidas De Boelelaan, www.incfestival. nl. 12.00-23.00 €29.50

ENCORE Amsterdam’s home of hip hop and R&B. Expect big beats, classic hits and new songs, exploring the spectrum of hip hop and R&B with fun offshoots into dubstep, dancehall and beyond. Every Sat, Melkweg, from midnight

STUDIO 54 REVISITED Studio 54 may not have been the most forward-thinking club in the Big Apple, but it’s certainly the one that first springs to mind for many people. Not only was this a place to boogie, it was also a venue where celeb photobombing happened on a weekly basis. Escape plus

Choice clubbing

NOODLANDING One of the city’s most famous pop parties where just about anything goes – music, fashion or behaviour. Expect indie, electro, hip hop, dance and lots of cheesy pop. For more abstract surprises and new sounds take a wander down to the basement bar for Dondergrondse. Every Thur, Paradiso, from 23.30 RHYTHM Weekly house night that promises a journey through the full spectrum of the genre, from deep soulful house to hard-hitting electro basslines. Every Thur, Winston Kingdom, from 23.00 SUPER SOCIAL Practice your social skills at this Leidseplein haunt. The dance music is suitably varied, from pop to nu-disco and classics to acid. Every Thur, Chicago Social Club, from 23.00 HOUSERULES Rediscover the joys of house music in all its international forms. Each Friday night the best Dutch and international DJs will be spinning big bassy house grooves. Every Fri, Escape, from 23.00 OFFSET Weekly night with DJ Mickster & Ldopa playing diverse tunes back to back. Every Fri, Winston Kingdom, from 23.00 BRAINWASH One of the biggest parties in Amsterdam, electro heads can make the most of a busy line-up of the city’s top DJs spinning all varieties of dance and urban sounds. Every Sat, Escape, from 23.00 MC NACHT Weekly party that aims to present the best of the city’s cutting-edge night culture and underground club scene. Each week promises an

RASTER-NOTON & THESE GUYS Chemnitz, Germany-based experimental electronic music label Raster-Noton kicked off in 1999 when Rastermusik and Noton joined hands. While the men behind the company try to tell us that they incorporate pop music into what they do, to most people their glitchy, fast and crystal-clear sounds come across as pretty extreme. RN brings DJ Viktor Palmer (pictured), Frank Bretschneider (live) and Diamond Version (live). Meanwhile, downstairs the motor city’s DJ Bone (Subject Detroit) has been booked for a rare DJ set full of extreme, uncompromised Detroit techno. Sat 1 Nov, Trouw, 23.00, €20, €10 before midnight PAYBACK Budget-conscious beats every Saturday. Musically anything is possible. Every Sat, Winston Kingdom, from 23.00 SNEEKY SUNDAY Skull-crushing bass rules at this weekly celebration of dubstep, dub and jungle. Every Sun, Winston Kingdom, from 22.00 WICKED JAZZ SOUNDS Jazzy classics, nu-soul and live players collide in this swinging party that’s never the same. Every Sun, Sugar Factory, from 23.00

ONE-OFF EVENTS INC FESTIVAL A new kid on the festival block, with a mix of house, techno and camp dance music. International highlights in the line-up include Germany’s electropop outfit Booka Shade and England’s post-dubstep house producer Audiojack.

house and disco DJs Veering, Hendra and FrenkyZ aim to re-create these pretentious good old times. Is that in itself be a little too pretentious, we wonder? Sat 1 Nov, Escape, 22.0005.00, €12 MULTIGROOVE & RUHR ‘G’ BEAT: THE CORE CONNECTION Amsterdam’s Multigroove and its German counterpart Ruhr ‘G’ Beat have been throwing hardcore/gabba raves since the mid-1990s and they’re still around now. DJs Lenny Dee (Industrial Strength), Chosen Few (The Name of My DJ), Tieum, Demon Dwarf, F.Noize, X-Mind, Miss Hysteria and many more will play gabba, frenchcore and early hardcore. Sat 8 Nov, Westerunie, 21.00-05.00, €15 RAUW: ED BANGER RECORDS SPECIAL The aptly named Ed Banger label always bangs it out. Tonight’s headliner, the Parisian label’s head honcho Pedro ‘Busy P’ Winter, used

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A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE to be Daft Punk’s manager before he started the label ten years ago. As a DJ, Busy P likes it noisy, compressed and heavy. Also on the bill tonight are the UK’s Riton and Winter’s business partner Boston Bun. Sat 8 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 23.00, €17, €10 before midnight LET – FINAL TROUW EDITION Having worked with Francois K and Danny Krivit, Joaquin Clausell represents that organic soulful NYC house-music sound and thereby the original spirit of club music. Clausell is joined by DJ, musician and lecturer on transgender issues Terre Thaemlitz, aka DJ Sprinkles. While Sprinkles’ own output has sometimes been classified as ‘political ambient’, her DJ sets include more accessible genres such as house and disco. Sun 9 Nov, Trouw, 21.00, €20, €10 before 22.00 NITRAAT Shackleton is widely known as one of the most original producers of the dubstep genre. His use of polyrhythmic structures is unheard of in the genre. That makes his music listenable for non-dancers too, and that’s what you’d expect tonight, as Shackleton will play while Dutch filmmaker Peter Delpeut shows his silent flicks. Thur 13 Nov, Trouw, 20.30, €12.50 STEVE RACHMAD’S BIRTHDAY PARTY Steve Rachmad was one of the early adapters of Detroit techno and so it should come as no surprise that the DJs spinning at his birthday bash are old dudes who know the craic. Aroy Dee and Marsel van der Wielen are the CEOs of M>O>S> Recordings and Delsin Records respectively. Together they present the best of American and British electronic 4/4 music. Also on the bill is Olf van Helden, aka Interstellar Funk. Sat 15 Nov, Studio 80, 23.0005.00, €10 DRUKPERS WEEKENDER PT 2 And the beat goes on… With Trouw not being far from it’s closing date on 3 January, you’ll have to cherish these moments where you can boogie till you drop. The second half of this 24-hour club night features DJ sets from German B2B duo Gerd Janson & Thomas Hammann, house and disco don Hunee plus a truckload full of decent local jocks. Sun 16 Nov, Trouw, 08.00, €18, €8 between 08.00 and 12.00 SBTRKT SBTRKT may not be the only masked electronic artist/ DJ (there’s also Zomby, Underground Resistance and of course DeadMau5 and Green Velvet), but he’s certainly one of the very few who manage to bridge the gap between the

Choice clubbing

Sat 22 Nov, Trouw, 23.00, €20, €10 before midnight IMPRINT & PROPER’S CULT The divide between Trouw’s two rooms is clear this evening: Oscar Mulero and Sandrien keep the beats coming hard and fast upstairs, while San Proper and his guest Willie Burns (L.I.E.S., Trilogy Tapes, New York) love their rhythms vintage, chilled and washed out. Sat 29 Nov, Trouw, 23.00, €18, €8 before midnight

NON RECORDS Amsterdam’s underground electronic pop label Non Records’ biggest name, Palmbomen won’t be there but count on Celebrine, Allen Delon, Renkas, Bear Damen, Marius and Betonkust playing everything synth heavy and credible that’s nevertheless verging towards the cheesy. Headlining guest DJ is Intergalactic Gary (pictured), one of the resident DJs of The Hague’s Intergalactic FM, a community radio station centred around 1980s electronic dance styles Fri 21 Nov, OT301, 22.00-03.00, €8

DRUKPERS WEEKENDER PT 1 Trouw’s upstairs room and basement are like day and night during this first half of the Drukpers Weekender. Expect euphoric marathonstyle techno from German DJs Barnt (Kompakt), DJ Tennis (Life and Death) and Steffen Bennemann (Nachtdigital) upstairs, while downstairs in De Verdieping, tunes are likely to be much more interesting with Scotland’s Optimo (pictured) playing anything from banging house to electro to hazy dub. Sat 15 Nov, Trouw, 23.00-07.00, €18, €8 before midnight electronic underground and (indie) pop without coming anywhere close to tackiness. Sun 16 Nov, Melkweg, 23.0005.00, €10 DVS 1 & PLANET DELSIN Amsterdam’s Delsin Records remains one of the top-ten techno imprints, and Trouw has hosted many label showcase nights over the years. No-longer-masked German purveyor of dry and dirty techno Shed headlines the Delsin part of the line-up, with support coming from Delta Funktionen, a young techno

GET ON DOWN Marea Vierge-Noire, aka the Black Madonna (pictured), is a mysterious female DJ/producer from Chicago whose first material circulated among a select group of house-music aficionados before it finally got released on vinyl in 2012. Vierge-Noire’s DJ sets are wildly hedonistic and eclectic, mixing Italo, James Brown and exotic sci-fi that’s as a much a pleasure for the brain as it is for the feet. She’ll deliver some madness on the floor, that’s for sure. Sat 13 Dec, Canvas, 23.00, €10

PANDEMONIUM The one-and-only musical style that was ever invented in the Netherlands doesn’t sound anything like Tiësto or André Rieu. Gabba, or hardcore, is somewhat close to house or techno but numbs your brain at a mental 180-plus BPM. Tonight, there’s five rooms to choose from, which all represent different hardcore subgenres: early rave/early hardcore, millennium hardcore, Frenchcore, terror and the fifth room is reserved for a mix of all sub-styles. Punishers on this hefty bill include Lenny Dee, Omar Santana, Darkraver, Ruffneck, Promo, Buzz Fuzz, Dano, the DJ/Producer Laurent Ho, Noisekick and more. Sat 6 Dec, Sporthallen Zuid, Burgerweeshuispad 54, 23.0007.00, €50 JUXTAPOSE: HOYA HOYA Manchester’s adventurous Hoya Hoya club night is represented by two men today. Fat City Records affiliate Jon K loves music no matter what genre you want to put it in, playing a mix of Balearic, electro, hip hop, disco and whatnot. Also on the bill is Ninja Tune producer Illum Sphere. If his DJ sets are in line with his productions, these will be futuristic, wonky and funky. Fri 12 Dec, Canvas, 23.00, €10 OUDE STIJL IS BOTERGEIL Another hardcore/gabba rave in Amsterdam’s north with brutal beats played by Darius G, Laurent Ho, Clarkee, Xearo, Enforcer, Faniac, The Irritainer and more. Sat 20 Dec, Undercurrent, 23.00-07.00, €10

SFX. Sceptics have warned that this may mean that the first appearance of Mr Afrojack at Awakenings isn’t far away, but we think you may get lucky and still get an awesome Awakenings NYE. Wed 31 Dec, Gashouder, 22.00-06.00 WELCOME TO THE FUTURE NYE The organisation set up by the man behind Quazar, one of Amsterdam’s first ever house music artists, offers a smallscale alternative to the massive parties that inhabit Amsterdam tonight. With a 600-people capacity, you may call this rave a relatively cosy one. Wed 31 Dec, Studio 80, 23.00-05.00 ADDRESSES Canvas Wibautstraat 150 http://volkshotel.nl/canvas Chicago Social Club Leidseplein 12 www.boomchicago.nl Escape Rembrandtplein 1 www.escape.nl Gashouder Klönneplein 1 www.westergasfabriek.nl MC Theater Polonceaukade 5 www.mconline.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl OT301 Overtoom 301 www.ot301.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17 www.studio-80.nl Sugar Factory Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl Tolhuistuin Tolhuisweg 5 www.tolhuistuin.nl Trouw Wibautstraat 127-131 www.trouwamsterdam.nl Undercurrent Papaverweg t/o 54 www.undercurrent.nl Westerunie Klönneplein 4-6 http://westerunie.nl Winston Kingdom Warmoesstraat 129 www.winston.nl

ASPIRATIONS advert It’s always a treat to have a good DJ spin a lengthy set, as 18 dec surtitled in artist hailing from Friesland you never know where it’ll end english and G-String of M>O>S> up. In the case of Germany’s Recordings. Minneapolis’ Move D, we’re guessing he’ll techno pride DVS1 has been start off jazzy, bang it out later, invited to work the decks with classic and new house cuts upstairs from start to end. bringing down the walls of this Fri 21 Nov, Trouw, 23.00, €20, club-cum-hotel. €10 before midnight Sat 27 Dec, Canvas, 23.00, €10 KOMPAKT AWAKENINGS NYE Kompakt Records’ main man Michael Mayer headlines a The line-up for what may well night of happy, poppy techno be the techno party on this with the always-smiling housecelebrative night hadn’t been music loving Prosumer a good made public when we went depty. Additional beats will to press. What was known, be spun by Patrice Bäumel, though, was the fact that Murat Tepeli, Tim Hoeben and Awakenings has been sold to toneelgroepamsterdam.nl Kennedy. American EDM wholesaler

MARIA STUART

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nov & dec 2014

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS

BAD THOUGHTS – COLLECTION MARTIJN AND JEANNETTE SANDERS Featuring a diverse range of several hundred paintings, sculptures, photographs, drawings, text-based artworks, films, videos and installations by over 350 (mostly European and American) artists, the Sanders Collection is one of the most important in the Netherlands. Stedelijk Museum, until 9 Nov FOAM 3H: ANIKA SCHWARZLOSE – DISGUISE & DECEPTION For this series, German visual artist Anika Schwarzloze drew inspiration from the Tarnen und Täuschen (Disguise & Deception) unit – a division set up in the German Democratic Republic to produce fake weapons and develop camouflage techniques. Schwarloze combines archival photographs with new work to reflect upon the nature of the image as well as military and artistic strategies. Foam, until 24 Nov ANTHONY MCCALL – SOLID LIGHT FILMS AND OTHER WORKS (1971-2014) Exhibition dedicated to British artist Anthony McCall, acclaimed for his magical light impressions. Since the 1970s, McCall has produced a remarkable body of work that includes drawings, performances and – most importantly for this exhibition – large-scale light projection installations, so-called solid light films. These sculptural light projections are at once minimalist in form and magical in effect. EYE, until 30 Nov THE MARSEILLAISE(S) – FIFTEEN YEARS OF COLLECTING Huis Marseille invites five photographers, who it has closely collaborated with in the past, to each curate their own gallery, filling it with their own work as well as with pieces from the museum’s extensive collection. Huis Marseille, until 7 Dec JH ENGSTRÖM – CLOSE SURROUNDING Engström’s photographs aim to expose the loneliness and the absurdity of the human condition – yet the photographer consistently seeks a meaningful communication with the viewer, expressing his doubts about the possibility of a real understanding of the condition. Foam, until 10 Dec UNDER CONSTRUCTION – NEW POSITIONS IN AMERICAN ART Group exhibition of work by young North American photographers. While the exhibited works themselves vary wildly, the photographers share a common approach: for them, the creative process itself can be the inspiration for or even the subject of their work. Foam, until 10 Dec

THE KISS

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

Choice exhibits

MARLENE DUMAS – THE IMAGE AS BURDEN Large-scale retrospective of work by the South-African-born, Amsterdam-based painter Marlene Dumas – widely considered one of the most significant and influential painters working today. Featuring over 100 works from the late 1970s to the present day (drawn from collections all over the world), this is the most comprehensive survey of Dumas’ work to date in Europe. Stedelijk Museum, until 4 Jan 2015

TRACES – 100 YEARS watercolours. Breitner used his ASGER JORN sketchbooks on a daily basis, recording his impressions of a This exhibition (or rather, set of exhibitions) marks the hun- rapidly changing city. Nowadays, his sketches afford the viewer a dredth anniversary of the birth of Asger Jorn (1914-1973), one of glimpse into an Amsterdam of horse-drawn trams, busy servthe founders of the Cobra moveants next to stately canal-side ment. See page 65. Cobra Museum of Modern Art, homes and rapid urban renewal. Amsterdam City Archives, until 18 Jan 2015 until 1 Feb 2015 ADRIAAN DE LELIE AND HOW FAR HOW NEAR THE 18TH-CENTURY FAMILY PORTRAIT Exhibition exploring the ambiguous relationship that the Billed as the largest-ever exhibimuseum has had with much tion dedicated to the renowned non-Western art. Although the 18th- and 19th-century painter, most of the works by De Lelie on Stedelijk has built up a reputation as a distinguished museum display are drawn from private for international contemporary collections and have therefore art ever since WWII, artistic not been accessible to the public developments emerging in large for many years. parts of the world have largely Museum van Loon, until 19 been ignored, according to the Jan 2015 museum. How Far How Near THE BEST DESIGNED BOOKS explores the background and reasons underlying this paradox A presentation of the best deand includes paintings, phosigned books of 2013. Exhibits tography, video, graphic work include projects by acclaimed and archive documents. publishers to museum cataStedelijk Museum, until 1 logues and rare, privately pubFeb 2015 lished books. Stedelijk, until 25 Jan 2015

VAN GOGH: THE ULTIMATE examines (the lasting effect of) LEIDEN CELEBRATES! HIGHCOLLECTION art in the turbulent 1960s. Subtitled ‘Echoes from the Sixties in LIGHTS FROM AN ACADEMIC Following the success of ‘Van COLLECTION Today’s Art’, the group exhibiGogh: My Dream’ in 2013, a A selection of 75 17th-century new and improved version of the tion investigates the tumultuous drawings drawn from the rich exhibition returns to once again inheritance that ’60s art movements such as psychedelic art collection of Leiden University. re-create 200 of Van Gogh’s The university’s collection of seminal works. Seven 3D anima- and conceptualism have left for tions of some of the artist’s most contemporary artists. It features drawings and prints originated famous works reveal the hidden works by 14 artists, ten of whom in the gifting of a private collechave created new work for the tion to the university. Since then, dimensions of these paintings, exhibition. the university has expanded this animating suggested movements de Appel Arts Centre, until 11 collection, these days focusing and exposing hidden details. Jan 2015 on contemporary artists. Beurs van Berlage, until 31 Dec Rembrandthuis, until 25 PRET OP STAND (UPFOOTBALL HALLELUYAH! Jan 2015 PER-CLASS ENTERTAINMENT) This family exhibition delves into footballing heroes, rituals, This canal-side museum puts its SOULMADE. JASPER KRABBÉ faith and superstition, exploring stately home surroundings to an MEETS THE TROPENMUSEUM ideal use by dedicating an exhiDutch artist Jasper Krabbé has the quasi-religious role of the bition to the olden-time enterbeen given free rein to rummage game in today’s society and tainment of the upper classes. around the Tropenmuseum showcasing a selection of images Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis, until archives to pick out objects and and objects, such as Marco van 13 Jan 2015 art for his personal exhibition. Basten’s football boots. The result is a very personal Amsterdam Museum, until 4 ON THE MOVE interpretation of the museum’s Jan 2015 Subtitled ‘Storytelling in Coninner life. THE HIDDEN PICTURE temporary Photography and Tropenmuseum, until 25 Graphic Design’, this exhibition Jan 2015 A selection of works from the focuses on recent developments ING bank’s international art SUPERBOX collection is brought together Featuring the museum’s latest for the first time. The collection advert acquisitions of applied art and from the Netherlands, Belgium, design. From woollen sweaters Poland and Britain is the result to a 3D-printed wardrobe and of 40 years of collecting and a visual identity in porcelain comprises more than 70 works of letters, the acquisitions showmodern and contemporary art, including paintings, drawings, case an extraordinary range of photographs and sculptures. techniques and innovative use of Cobra Museum of Modern Art, materials. until 4 Jan 2015 Stedelijk Museum, until 25 Jan 2015 MASTERPIECES FROM THE HOWARD GREENBERG MODERN TIMES. COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE 20TH CENTURY Following great success in Lausanne, Paris and Budapest, this The Rijksmuseum’s collection of photography exhibition comes 20th-century photography steps to Amsterdam, showcasing apinto the spotlight as a large-scale proximately 150 photos from the exhibition is dedicated to it for private collection of New Yorkthe first time. See page 24. based gallery owner Howard Rijksmuseum, until 31 Jan 2015 Greenberg. BREITNER SKETCHES Jewish Historical Museum, until in photography and reveals the AMSTERDAM numerous ways in which artists 11 Jan 2015 and photographers build their Countless sketches by the Dutch WHEN ELEPHANTS COME narratives in dialogue with painter George Hendrik Breitner MARCHING IN graphic designers. (1857-1923) have been digitalised Stedelijk Museum, until 18 Guest curated by art historian and are now displayed alongside Jan 2015 Mark Kremer, this exhibition a selection of his paintings and

MAGICAL AFRICA – MASKS AND SCULPTURES FROM THE IVORY COAST. THE ARTISTS REVEALED Major international exhibition featuring more than 200 art objects from the Ivory Coast, including some world-famous sculptures. See page 19. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 15 Feb 2015 DINING WITH THE TSARS The Hermitage Amsterdam celebrates its fifth anniversary with a lavish exhibition showcasing olden-times dinner-table glories from the court of the Tsars. Subtitled ‘Fragile beauty from the Hermitage’, the exhibition presents eight magnificent porcelain services from the collection of the Hermitage in St Petersburg in a setting that allows visitors to experience what the balls and banquets of the Tsar’s court were like. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 1 Mar 2015. FOREVER VINTAGE Sure to appeal to fashion historians and Downton Abbey fans alike, this exhibition showcases vintage pieces dating from the years between 1920 and 1994 alongside ‘retro’ bags that were inspired by these classics in terms of shape and materials. Museum of Bags & Purses, until 1 Mar 2015 SELAMAT SJABBAT The Jewish Historical Museum dedicates an exhibition to the oft-hidden history of Jews in the former Dutch colonies, drawing on a wealth of documents, objects, interviews, photos, historical film fragments and ‘home movies’ to give an overview of Jewish life from colonial times until today. Jewish Historical Museum, until 8 Mar 2015 ALI & LAILA, AN AMSTERDAM FAMILY HISTORY Featuring new work by pho-

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS MUSEUM VAN LOON ROYAL PALACE tographer Kadir van Lohuizen, EYE, 13 Dec-12 Apr 2015 this exhibition focuses on the The Van Loons belonged to The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal ARAKI OJO SASHU – Dutch-Moroccan family Rharib the city’s governing elite, and Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE from Amsterdam Oost. Van were among the founders of the Square is one of three palaces still Lohuizen spent a year with them AFTER LIFE: ALLURING HELL mighty Dutch East India Comin use by the Dutch royal family. back in 1993, and returned 20 The first major retrospective of pany back in 1602. With much It is used for state visits, award years later to see how things work by acclaimed photographer of its original interior intact, the ceremonies and other official rehave changed for the family. Nobuyoshi Araki, without doubt collection comprises paintings, ceptions. When the palace is not Amsterdam Museum, until 8 one of the most celebrated Japantique furnishings and being used by the royal family, it Mar 2015 anese artists of our time. Best objects d’art. is open to the public. Visitors can known for his focus on daily life explore the magnificent interior VIVIAN MAIER, STREET ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER and the intertwining themes and discover the rich history of PHOTOGRAPHER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) of life (sex) and death, Araki’s the building. Vivian Maier became an inworks range from being personThis clandestine church in a STEDELIJK MUSEUM ternational sensation after her al and sentimental to anarchistic 17th-century canal house attic impressive collection of more and vulgar. This exhibition indates back to the Reformation, The museum’s permanent colthan 100,000 negatives was dis- cludes several series never before when Catholics were not perlection is now on display in the covered in 2007. Working as a displayed in the Netherlands. mitted to practice their faith in beautifully restored historical nanny for most of her life, Maier Foam, 19 Dec-11 Mar 2015 public. Today, it’s one of the city’s building, with fixed spots for documented street life in major most unique attractions in the highlights such as ‘The Beanery’ American cities such as New heart of the Red Light District. by Edward Kienholz and works York and Chicago in her free PERMANENT time. See page 22. EXHIBITIONS Foam, 7 Nov-28 Jan 2015 ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about the persecution of the Jews and persecution in a wider context.

DANCING LIGHT/LET IT MOVE YOU… Photography and dance are often considered to be poles apart – the former characterised by stillness and the latter by movement – but this exhibition sets out to prove the opposite. Alongside film and video, photography is in fact an ideal means of capturing the primal power of dance, even possessing the potential to illuminate the mysterious, intangible concept of ‘duende’. Huis Marseille, 13 Dec-8 Mar 2015

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth, located on the Golden Bend of the grandest canal of all, the Herengracht. Highlights include ornamental gardens as well as sumptuous themed salons.

BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oft-controversial exhibition of human specimens GIANTS OF THE ICE AGE including whole-body plastinates, Embark on a fascinating journey organs and translucent body slicall the way back to prehistory. es takes up permanent residence This major travelling exhibition in central Amsterdam. Featuring introduces visitors to extinct Ice an extensive selection of authenAge animals including the mamtic human specimens, the emmoth, sabre-tooth tiger and phasis of this exhibition is on the cave bear, while exploring what various aspects of life and love. life was like for Neanderthals EYE FILM MUSEUM 30,000 years ago. Giants of the Ice Age looks at how they huntCinematography museum home ed, the tools they used and the to an internationally renowned mystery surrounding the world’s collection of films covering the oldest art forms: the European whole history of cinema, from cave and rock paintings. the first silent movies to the latest Amsterdam EXPO, from 27 Nov contemporary productions.

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitits showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th-century expansion.

JEAN DESMET’S DREAM FACTORY HORTUS BOTANICUS The Amsterdam film museum’s For nearly four centuries, Ammajor winter exhibition draws sterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has on the collection of Jean Desmet regaled visitors with its lush to examine one of the most ingreenhouses and exotic plants. teresting periods in film history, Originally founded in 1638 to between the years of 1907 and serve as a herb garden for the 1916. Desmet’s unique collection city’s doctors and pharmacists, was added to UNESCO’s Memit’s one of the oldest botanical ory of the World Register in gardens in the world. 2011 and provides an unrivalled HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM insight into the film industry in the early 20th century: exciting Located in the Hendrika Maria, times that saw the development a former freighter moored on the of film as a form of amusement Prinsengracht,the Houseboat and widespread experimentaMuseum gives fun insight into tion with the possibilities offered life on Amsterdam’s canals – a by the new medium. uniquely Dutch way of life.

Choice exhibits

WAR OF GHOSTS, 2009

PORTRAIT GALLERY OF THE GOLDEN AGE A collaboration between the Hermitage, Amsterdam Museum and the Rijksmuseum, this exhibition features an impressive selection of more than 30 huge 17th- and 18th-century group portraits, many of which haven’t been on public display for decades. See page 18. Hermitage Amsterdam, 26 Nov31 Dec 2016

Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org de Appel arts centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Biblical Museum Herengracht 366-368 www.bijbelsmuseum.nl Body Worlds Damrak 66, http://bodyworlds.nl De Brakke Grond Nes 45, www.brakkegrond.nl Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl Dutch Press Museum Zeeburgerkade 10 http://persmuseum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61 www.verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1, www.eyefilm.nl Foam Keizersgracht 609 http://foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 http://geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51, www.hermitage.nl Hollandse Schouwburg Plantage Middenlaan 24 www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl Hortus Botanicus GRAND PARADE ART INSTALLATION Plantage Middenlaan 2a http://dehortus.nl Acclaimed Asian artist Jompet Kuswidananto created this Houseboat Museum unique art installation especially for the Tropenmuseum, Prinsengracht 296 K bringing together dozens of his famous mechanical figures www.houseboatmuseum.nl to form an impressive theatrical artwork. Complete with Huis Marseille drums, weapons and horses, Kuswidananto’s figures asKeizersgracht 401 semble in a ‘square’ in the museum, springing into life in a www.huismarseille.nl Imagine IC spectacular Grand Parade performance. Frankemaheerd 2 Tropenmuseum, until 22 Mar 2015 www.imagineic.nl Jewish Historical Museum by Willem de Kooning and Andy Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 REMBRANDTHUIS Warhol. Half of the ground floor www.jhm.nl The house that Rembrandt is reserved for the best pieces Museum Van Loon called home for nearly 20 years from the design collection. Keizersgracht 672 boasts an impressive collection www.museumvanloon.nl TROPENMUSEUM of drawings and paintings by Mediamatic Fabriek the Old Master himself as well The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ VOC-kade 10 as by his contemporaries. The has eight geographically themed www.mediamatic.net Rembrandthuis is also home to permanent exhibitions and an De Nieuwe Kerk 290 of Rembrandt’s etchings – a ongoing series of temporary pres- Dam square, www.nieuwekerk.nl near complete collection – and an entations, including both modern Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder alternating selection is on permaand traditional visual arts and (Our Lord in the Attic) nent display. photographic work. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl RIJKSMUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Rembrandthuis MUSEUM After a decade of unprecedented Jodenbreestraat 4 renovation, the Rijksmuseum The only completely period furwww.rembrandthuis.nl finally showed off its new (and nished canal-side house in AmRijksmuseum old) look in April 2013. Visit the sterdam open daily to the public, Jan Luijkenstraat 1 state museum and embark on a with a remarkable collection of www.rijksmuseum.nl journey through Dutch art and Golden Age art and silverware. Royal Palace Amsterdam history from the Middle Ages and Dam square ADDRESSES Renaissance right up until the www.paleisamsterdam.nl 20th century A not-to-be-missed Allard Pierson Museum Het Scheepvaartmuseum experience. Oude Turfmarkt 127 (National Maritime Musuem) www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Kattenburgerplein 1 HET SCHEEPVAART Amsterdam City Archives www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl MUSEUM (NATIONAL Vijzelstraat 32 Stedelijk Museum MARITIME MUSEUM) http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Museumplein 10 The National Maritime MuAmsterdam Expo http://stedelijk.nl seum comprises a series of small Gustav Mahlerlaan 24 Tropenmuseum exhibitions exploring various elwww.amsterdamexpo.nl Linnaeusstraat 2 ements of maritime life. Moored Amsterdam Museum www.tropenmuseum.nl outside is the Amsterdam, an Kalverstraat 92 Willet-Holthuysen Museum exact replica of a famous Dutch http://amsterdammuseum.nl Herengracht 605 East India Company ship. Anne Frank House www.willetholthuysen.nl

in November & December Exhibition

Anthony McCall

Solid Light Films and Other Works (1971-2014) till 30 November

IDFA in EYE

19 till 30 November

Alice in Wonderland

12 December 20.15 The Royal Opera House Live from Covent Garden Christmas Classic:

Gone With the Wind From 18 December

Info & tickets: www.eyeďŹ lm.nl

EYE_AD_AMAG_11-2014.indd 1

EYE on Art

Every Tuesday a program at the interface of film and visual arts

09-10-14 14:53

PART IV THE A-LIST

GALLERIES 1. ALICIA FRAMIS – FORBIDDEN ROOMS

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As is common in Spanish multidisciplinary artist Alicia Framis’ work, the exhibition Forbidden Rooms makes us question the society in which we live in. All of the works address the unspoken realities of our histories – real and imagined. ‘Forbidden Book Room’ is a closed room with books that have been forbidden at a certain time. Some are still under censure; others leave us questioning how they could ever have been banned; while others still are only forbidden in certain countries. As such, the work asks us to reflect on the values our common history has given us and whether they still hold their worth today.

STAGE

he discovered the use of

elusive elements such as air, weather and light as artistic materials. Generations of artists are still influenced by the poetry of this discovery. The artist still creates new works, for which he continues to look in unexplored directions.

UPSTREAM GALLERY NOV-10 JAN 2015 Van Ostadestraat 294, www.upstreamgallery.nl.

Archive Marinus Boezem, Middelburg.

4. CEVDET EREK – FACE

Cevdet Erek’s (1974, Istanbul) work is characterised by a marked use of rhythm and site specificity. Erek combines ANNET GELINK GALLERY video, sound and images, 27 NOV-10 JAN 2015 often in an attempt to alter Laurierstraat 187-189 the viewer’s perception www.annetgelink.com and experience of a given space. Erek manages Alicia Framis, Forbidden Books, to combine rational 2014, Musée Pablo Picasso, components, such as Nice, France, courtesy Annet references to architecture Gelink Gallery, Amsterdam. and linear time, with instinctive impulses, thereby levelling the gap 2. AMALIA PICA between two supposedly Argentinian artist Amalia opposing spheres. Pica’s second solo show in the gallery is a continuation AKINCI 27 NOV-28 JAN 2015 of a project begun at the Lijnbaansgracht 317 Museo Tamayo in Mexico City in the summer of 2013. www.akinci.nl At Stigter Van Doesburg Cevdet Erek, In the Courtyard, she is presenting a group 2002, photo: Sharjah Biennial of sculptures and a new 2013 film in which she pursues her formal and political exploration of mathematical 5. GROUP set theory. Pica’s works EXHIBITION suggest systems of exchange, transmission and – AB-STRECHING reception of information, at THE CANVAS the same time as they offer The exhibition Aba fresh reading of the avant- stretching the canvas garde and abstraction. revolves around the STIGTER VAN DOESBURG potential of the canvas 27 NOV-20 DEC beyond the composition of Elandsstraat 90 the painted surface in both www.stigtervandoesburg.com a material and conceptual sense. The artists in the Exhibition views, One Thing exhibition work within After Another at La Criée the medium of painting, centre for contemporary art, though stretch and Rennes, photo: Benoît Mauras question the traditional 2014. boundaries of the twodimensional framework by putting a strong emphasis 3. MARINUS on its material, spatial and/ BOEZEM – UNTITLED or conceptual context. Upstream Gallery will JEANINE HOFLAND present an exhibition to 27 NOV-24 JAN 2015 honour Marinus Boezem De Clercqstraat 62 (1934, Leerdam), who http://jeaninehofland.nl turned 80 this year. Boezem, whose impressive Andrea Kvas, Untitled, 2014 artistic career spans nearly six decades, Powered by Capital A, who was one of the pioneers also organise Amsterdam of conceptual art in the Art Weekend see page 21. Netherlands. In the 1960s www.amsterdamart.com

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

recognisable classic tune after another. Sat 1 Nov (18.00) & Sun 14 Dec (11.00), Pathé Tuschinski, various prices

COMEDY: SMART PHONES, THEATRE: FRANKENSTEIN DUMB PEOPLE! Art-deco cinema Pathé A new collection of Boom Tuschinski presents a series Chicago’s favourite scenes plus of live HD screenings of brand new improvisations with performances by London’s a focus on high-tech comedy. National Theatre. Directed by The show traces life from the Academy Award-winner Danny Nokia 3310 to the iPhone 6. From Snake to Candy Crush. Boyle (Trainspotting, Slumdog Millionaire) and starring From MySpace to Instagram. Benedict Cumberbatch Nov & Dec, Boom Chicago, (12 Years A Slave, Star various dates & times, €22.50 Trek: Into Darkness) COMEDY: WHAT’S UP WITH and Jonny Lee Miller THOSE BEARDS? (Trainspotting, Mansfield Park) in alternating roles as It’s a question that has puzzled Victor Frankenstein and his the world’s greatest minds creation. The production was for centuries. Well, okay, an unprecedented success not really. Nevertheless, the and broke all records of the comedy crew over at Boom National Theatre in 2011. Chicago will go looking for The recording of the live the answer in their latest show that’s filled with improv, performance has since become an international sensation, sketches, music and video. and has been experienced by Nov & Dec, Boom Chicago, almost half a million people various dates & times, €26.50 in movie theatres around the COMEDY: THE SEVEN world. DEADLY DUTCH SINS Wed 5 & 12 Nov, Pathé Tuschinski, 18.00, various The Amsterdam comedy troupe prices explores life in Dutchland even further! As they note: ‘We’ve THEATRE: OF MICE been living and working here, AND MEN observing, interpreting and Art-deco cinema Pathé gathering material for more Tuschinski presents a series than 20 years. Now we get of live HD screenings of into the national psyche and performances by London’s make fun of things you never National Theatre. Golden noticed, or never questioned.’ Globe winner and Academy Along the way they touch on Dutch birthdays, weddings, the Award nominee James Franco (127 Hours, Milk) and Tony Royals, health service Award nominee Chris O’Dowd and more. (Bridesmaids, Girls) are the Dec, Boom Chicago, various stars of this Broadway hit dates & times, €8-€12 production, filmed from the COMEDY: EASYLAUGHS stage by the National Theatre Live. This great revival of This international comedy Nobel Prize-winner John group performs a hilarious, hioctane, completely improvised Steinbeck’s play is a powerful portrait of American energy show at the CREA Café every and a heart-rending testimony Friday night. There’s also of the covenant of friendship. an early bird show, guest performers from around the Thur 6 Nov, Pathé Tuschinski, 18.00, various prices world, various formats, themes and open podiums. DANCE: TALK TO Every Fri, Crea Café, 20.00 & THE DEMON 21.00, €5-€10 Wim Vandekeybus is COMEDY: SHOT OF IMPROV considered one of Flanders’ Shot of Improv sees the entire best choreographers. His latest production is a darkly comedic Boom Chicago cast take to and poetic exploration of the the stage, so the laughs are power of innocence. What guaranteed to keep on comin’. does the mysterious ‘Architect’ Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big have in store for Vandekeybus’ characters? There’s only one and never slows down. way to find out… Every Sat, Boom Chicago, Thur 6 Nov, 22.30, €14 Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, OPERA: CARMEN €12.50-€42.50 Art-deco cinema Pathé DANCE: SWAN LAKE Tuschinski presents a series It’s been called the ‘ballet of of live HD screenings of all ballets’ and not without works by the Metropolitan good reason. With its pure Opera. Richard Eyres’ romanticism, classic theme of enchanting production of Bizet’s compelling melodrama good vs. evil and Tchaikovsky’s timeless compositions, is back, with mezzo-soprano Swan Lake epitomises the Anita Rachvelishvili in the genre. Here, The Nationale role of the titular unhappy Ballet revisits the fantastic gypsy. Aleksandrs Antonenko choreographic interpretation plays her desperate lover, the by Rudi van Dantzig, their soldier Don José, and Ildar former artistic director. Abdrazakov is the boastful Thur 6-Sat 15 Nov, Dutch bullfighter Escamillo. Pablo National Opera & Ballet, Heras-Casado conducts this various times, €15-€90 irresistible opera, with one

nov & dec 2014

THEATRE: IVANOV (GET LOST) One of theatre’s most famous antiheroes will be reborn in writer/director Amir Reza Koohestani’s unique adaptation of Anton Chekhov’s classic drama. Faced with the challenges of modernday Iran, Ivanov becomes the personification of the nation’s frustrated youth and their revolutionary ideals. Tue 11 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€32.50 COMEDY: AMSTERDAM ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS This monthly feature presented by the Boom Chicago crew brings the best international stand-up comics to the city. Each show will include four or five sets and be entirely in English. November is headlined by Adam Fields (UK) and Manu Moreau (BE). Fri 14 Nov, Boom Chicago, 22.45, €12 PERFORMANCE: MUSICALS IN CONCERT Some of the biggest names in Dutch musical theatre unite for an evening of show tunes. The all-star cast includes Willemijn Verkaik, who received rave reviews for her starring role in several international productions of Wicked. The audience is invited to sing along as Verkaik and her colleagues roll through some of Broadway’s greatest hits, as well as Dutch musical classics – as such, expect a cocktail of English and Dutch lyricism. Sat 15 (20.00) & Sun 16 Nov (14.00, 20.00), Ziggo Dome, €45-€75 DANCE: THE PHARAOH’S DAUGHTER Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live HD screenings of performances by Moscow’s Bolshoi Ballet. The young Englishman Lord Wilson is travelling through Egypt as a powerful storm erupts. He is forced to take shelter in the nearest pyramid, where the

daughter of one of the most powerful pharaohs of Egypt was buried. With its exotic setting, impressive parades, spectacular variations and ensemble scenes, this magnificent 19th-century oriental fantasy is one of the most remarkable productions in the Bolshoi repertoire. The main roles are performed here by Bolshoi dancers Svetlana Zakharova, Nina Kaptsova and Ruslan Skvortsov Sun 16 Nov, Pathé Tuschinski, 16.00, various prices COMEDY: THE LOCO TOKO PICTURE SHOW At this recurring event

international comedians rip apart popular movies with a unique combination of stand-up, improv, sketches and audience interaction. This ensures each show is an unforgettable experience in the intimate surroundings of the Rozentheater’s upstairs theatre. During this run you can catch them taking on Bond in Die Another Day. Arguably, it wasn’t Bond’s finest hour, offering up North Korean torture and some dodgy visual effects that haven’t aged well. But hey, you can’t go wrong with explosions and laughs. Sun 16 Nov, 7 Dec, & 21 Dec, Boom Chicago, 20.30, €12.50

Choice theatre

RAHI REZVAN

OPERA: LOHENGRIN The Dutch National Opera continues its exploration of great Wagner operas. This romantic fairy-tale work was initially staged by director Pierre Audi in 2002, with particular acclaim for artist Jannis Kounellis’s decor and the costumes by Angelo Figus. In the four lead roles: Nikolai Schukoff (in his DNO debut) as Lohengrin, Juliane Banse as Elsa, Yevgeny Nikitin (DNO debut) as Telramund and Michaela Schuster as Ortrud (following on from his roles in Elektra and Götterdämmerung). See page 21. Mon 10-Sat 29 Nov, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€160

25 YEARS LEÓN & LIGHTFOOT Renowned choreographers Paul Lightfoot and Sol León will celebrate 25 years of eclectic performances with this versatile anniversary programme. It includes an updated and extended version of 1998’s Sad Cases, one of their best-known collaborations, and Subject to Change, which features a red carpet on which a woman fitfully expresses inner turmoil, sometimes in a knotty but sterile duet with a bare-chested man, set to Schubert’s Death and the Maiden. Sat 22 & Sun 23 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€40

HANS KLOK This Dutch magician may have a haircut that recalls Eastern Bloc glam, but his magic shows are all Las Vegas razzmatazz – which is where he spends more time now. Big costumes, big bangs and big stunts are abundant in his latest overthe-top show The Houdini Experience. His trademark rapid-fire delivery of magic should ensure language is not a problem. Sat 22 (20.00) & Sun 23 Nov (12.00), RAI Theater, €19-€49

KISS & CRY Created by choreographer Michèle Anne de Mey and filmmaker Jaco van Dormael, this show has been in a continual state of grace for three years, resulting in a ‘nano’ world that is filmed and beamed in real-time around the performance space. It is a small-scale and magical world with universal significance: it is still playing to packed theatres after touring worldwide. Thur 13-Sat 15 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20.00, €17.50-€35

PERFORMANCE: JORDAN BELFORT: THE WOLF OF WALL STREET Jordan Belfort’s infamous reign as one of Wall Street’s most despicable stockbrokers came to an abrupt halt in the late ’90s when law enforcement officials finally managed to bag and tag him. After a stint in prison, he miraculously turned himself into an author, motivational speaker and the subject of Martin Scorsese’s recent biopic. Come see what Belfort has to say for himself at this one-man (er, wolf ?) conference. Wed 19 Nov, R AI Theater, 14.00 & 18.30, €87-€1,297 COMEDY: EDDIE GRIFFIN This renowned US stand-up made his name in the sitcom Malcolm & Eddie and hit movie Undercover Brother. He now resides in Las Vegas as an in-house comic but he’s leaving the desert and the glam behind on this tour, taking his gags out on the road and having some fun with fresh audiences. Thur 20 Nov, Melkweg, 19.00, €30 PERFORMANCE: SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL OF VIENNA Triple Olympic gold medal winner Anky van Grunsven and the gorgeous Lipizzaner horses are heading to Amsterdam. Van Grunsven is one of history’s most successful dressage champions. At this show, she’ll demonstrate centuries-old riding methods from Spain, in addition to ancient equestrian traditions and training methods. As a precursor, Rotterdam’s Scapino Ballet will perform their hit show Pearl. Sat 29 (20.00) & Sun 30 Nov (15.00), Ziggo Dome, €39-€79 DANCE: 247 DAYS Choreographer Anouk van Dijk’s time as an artistic director for an Australian dance company serves as the inspiration for this production. Six dancers will help tell her tale of a stranger struggling with everyday life in a strange land. Tue 2 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 OPERA: LA BOHÈME Puccini’s populist La Bohème is one of the most performed operas around the world, still presenting a musically glowing take on bohemian life in Paris. This version is a coproduction between the Dutch National Opera and the English National Opera. Conductor Renato Palumbo makes his Dutch National Opera debut, as do the prominent director Benedict Andrews and the artist Johannes Schütz as decor designer. See page 24. Thur 4-Tue 30 Dec, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€160

DANCE: LA BAYADERE Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live HD screenings of performances by Moscow’s Bolshoi Ballet. When the beautiful dancer Nikiya and the warrior Solor meet in secret, they swear eternal mutual fidelity. The story of the impossible love between Nikiya and Solor takes place against the backdrop of the lush and mysterious India. Marius Petipa’s choreography here in a beautiful new version of Yuri Grigorovich, is exquisite. The scene known as ‘The Kingdom of Shadows’ is one of the most celebrated in the history of ballet. Bolshoi dancers Svetlana Zakharova and Maria Alexandrova bring the characters of this romantic ballet to life. Sun 7 Dec, Pathé Tuschinski, 16.00, various prices THEATRE: JOHN Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live HD screenings of performances by London’s National Theatre. DV8 Physical Theatre has created a new production. JOHN boasts authentic and reallife stories, a combination of movement and speech, and thus comes to an intense and moving theatrical experience. Lloyd Newson, artistic director of DV8, interviewed more than 50 men and asked candid questions about love and sex. One of those men was John. What emerged was a story that is both singular and touching: years of crime, drug use and struggling to survive on a quest in which John led his life entangled from others in an unexpected place unknown to many. Thur 9 Dec, Pathé Tuschinski, 21.00, various prices DANCE: CINDERELLA A collaboration with the San Francisco Ballet, the Dutch National Ballet’s production of Cinderella by choreographer Christopher Wheeldon treats the fairytale story as a starting point for an up-to-date, cinematic ballet spectacle full of humour and with a generous sprinkling of magic. The adaptation also adds new elements to the main characters – for example, Cinderella is portrayed not as a passive, lonely girl, but as a young woman who holds her head high in the face of sorrow. The result is a dazzling production that will delight the whole family. Fri 12 Dec-Thur 1 Jan, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€90 OPERA: DE MEISTERSINGER VON NÜRNBERG Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live HD screenings of works by the Metropolitan Opera. James Levine returns

PART IV THE A-LIST.

FILM FAVOURITES

STAGE to one of his most famous of Wagner’s works, directing this famous comedy – about a group of Renaissance master singers entering a singing competition – for the first time in eight years back in the Met. Johan Reuter, Johan Botha and Annette Dasch lead the excellent international cast in this charming and masterful tribute to the power of music and art. Sat 13 Dec, Pathé Tuschinski, 18.00, various prices DANCE: MY PRIVATE ODYSSEY The Odyssey is the guiding light for this vibrant production. Join an international crew of musicians and dancers as they contend with trials and tribulations reminiscent of the ones Odysseus grappled with in Homer’s epic poem. In the energetic and headstrong Guy & Roni style, the dancers and musicians go on their own journey, in which both the best and the worst in every person is revealed. Mon 15 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 THEATRE: MARIA STUART Maria Stuart Elizabeth I of England and Mary of Scotland were never the best of friends. Come see them duke it out in this theatrical production running throughout December 2014 and January 2015. Performances are in Dutch but surtitled in English on 18 December. Thur 18 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 19.45, €10-€35.50 PERFORMANCE: WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another seasonal run. Already confirmed for this year’s show is the worldfamous clown David Larible, while a host of other major names from the circus scene are sure to be making an appearance. See page 19. Thur 18 Dec-Sun 4 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, various times, €10-€54 DANCE: SEHNSUCHT/ SCHMETTERLING The centuries-spanning music of Beethoven and the rock band Magnetic Fields come together in this ‘diptych’ crafted by acclaimed choreographers Paul Lightfoot and Sol León. The abstract production explores the nature of existence and love through dance and surreal stagecraft. Fri 19-Sun 21 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €22.50-€40 PERFORMANCE: WINTER CIRCUS AMSTERDAM Still relatively new to Amsterdam’s festive scene, the Winter Circus takes place

in a custom tent next to the ArenA and features a mixture of old and new performance techniques – acrobatics and plate spinning will be joined by the likes of a motorcycle stunt team, Russian juggler Semen Viktor Krachinov and horse whisperer Guillome Assire Becar. Of course, this circus isn’t just about the professional performers, as the circus park in the foyer is the perfect place for the young ones (and maybe some oldies) to pick up some new circus skills, as well as soak up the festive atmosphere. Sat 20 Dec-Sun 4 Jan, ArenA Park, Anton de Komplein 150, www. wintercircusamsterdam.nl. Various times, €15-€49 DANCE: THE NUTCRACKER Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live HD screenings of performances by Moscow’s Bolshoi Ballet. On Christmas Eve, Marie’s godfather gives her a strange toy: a wooden nutcracker carved in the shape of a little man. At midnight, when the festivities are over, all the toys come magically to life. This choreographic version, specially made for the Bolshoi by Yuri Grigorovich, is full of romance and philosophical reflections of ideal love. Let your entire family be enchanted during the holidays by this classic story, masterfully translated by the talented Bolshoi dancers. Sun 21 Dec, Pathé Tuschinski, 16.00, various prices ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl DeLaMarTheater Marnixstraat 404 0900 3352627 http://delamar.nl Frascati Nes 63 020 626 6866 www.theaterfrascati.nl The John Adams Institute West-Indisch Huis Herenmarkt 97 020 624 7280 www.john-adams.nl Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 020 410 7777 www.meervaart.nl Pathé Tuschinski Reguliersbreestraat 26-34 www.pathe.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255 https://carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl

INTERSTELLAR

In his much anticipated (and even more hyped) new feature, director Christopher Nolan promises to combine the visionary flourish of Inception with the grim superhero storytelling of Dark Knight Rises. Earth is dying, and it’s up to Matthew McConaughey and Anne Hathaway to save us. Direction: Christopher Nolan Release: 6 November

NIGHTCRAWLER

Sensational press journalist Lou Bloom (Jake Gyllenhaal) is nothing if not ambitious. If the trash doesn’t come to you, you’ll just have to create some yourself. Think Taxi Driver meets Peeping Tom. Rene Russo (as Bloom’s cutthroat news director), Bill Paxton and Riz Ahmed (Four Lions) costar. Direction: Dan Gilroy Release: 6 November

SUNSET BOULEVARD

‘I am big, it’s the pictures that got small!’ Wish as they might, Sunset Boulevard may be the one Hollywood classic that will prove unremarkable. For who could capture the same authenticity as Gloria Swanson as Norma Desmond, a silent film star who couldn’t find her voice in the Talkies, and Erich von Stroheim as a once-famous director-turned-butler? Direction: Billy Wilder Release: 13 November

WHIPLASH

Speaking of perfect casting, JK Simmons seems to have been born to play Terence Fletcher, a music teacher who terrorises his pupils into greatness. Miles Teller stars as the beleaguered drummer with oncoming Stockholm syndrome. Whiplash is the must-see breakout film of the year. Direction: Damien Chazelle Release: 13 November

STILL LIFE

Council worker John May (Eddie Marsan) has devoted his life to looking out for the dead. When no one comes to claim the deceased, he’ll take care of the funeral – music and eulogy and all. Still Life sometimes inclines towards the sentimental, but Marsan will make it worth your while.

Direction: Uberto Pasolini Release: 20 November

THE SKELETON TWINS

Two estranged siblings (Bill Hader, Kristen Wiig) reconnect when they both try (or at least contemplate) suicide on the same day. Thankfully, director Craig Johnson also finds humour and warmth amidst all the bleakness and depression. One of the best sibling pairings since You Can Count On Me (Mark Ruffalo, Laura Linney). Direction: Craig Johnson Release: 20 November

MISS JULIE

If you’re looking for cheer, don’t look here. With her stage adaptation of Miss Julie, director and actress Liv Ullmann shows us that her time with legendary filmmaker Ingmar Bergman – as muse and lover – certainly rubbed off. A bored aristocrat (Jessica Chastain) orders her father’s valet, John (Colin Farrell) to seduce her. Direction: Liv Ullmann Release: 27 November

MY OLD LADY

Granted, we all know Kevin Kline, Kristin Scott Thomas and Maggie Smith can do better than appearing in a tenderhearted comedy like My Old Lady, the feature-film debut of stage writer Israel Horovitz. But as long as they’re having fun, who are we to complain?

Direction: Israel Horovitz Release: 27 November

MR TURNER

British painter JMW Turner (Timothy Spall, winner Best Actor in Cannes) didn’t have a particularly eventful life: the death of a parent, the onesided love of a housekeeper, a low-key affair with a seaside landlady in Chelsea. However, director Mike Leigh (HappyGo-Lucky) shows us that just as with Turner’s paintings, the art and beauty lie in the details. Direction: Mike Leigh Release: 11 December

GONE WITH THE WIND The late Roger Ebert said it best: Gone with the Wind is ‘tainted nostalgia’, where the ways of the Old South are idolised. But, as far as epic passions go, it doesn’t get more passionate, or epic, than this – even if Scarlett (Vivien Leigh) is the last one to know. Direction: Victor Fleming Release: 18 December

nov & dec 2014

KIDS & FAMILY advertorial MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM ATTRACTIONS Step into the amazing world AMSTERDAM DUNGEON of Madame Tussauds. The The Amsterdam Dungeon brings collection of wax figures include 500 years of dark history to life the gorgeous Brad Pitt, the with 11 shows, seven actors and outrageous Lady Gaga and the one terrifying experience! The brilliant Einstein. Pose for photos tour takes 80 minutes. Are YOU with the likes of David Beckham, brave enough? Justin Bieber and Beyoncé. Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. Dam 20, www.madametussauds. nl. Open daily 11.00-17.00 (last nl. Open daily 10.00-18.30; €22, tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18 ages 5-15 €18, under-5s free ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary – all serve to illustrate the events that occurred here. Suitable for children over ten. Prinsengracht 267, www.annefrank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sat 09.00-22.00, Sun 09.00-21.00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes galloping amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www. artis.nl. Open daily 09.00-18.00; €19.95, ages 3-9 €16.50

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Het Scheepvaartmuseum has a variety exhibitions designed just for kids. Sal & Lori and the Circus at Sea is an underwater fairy-tale for the youngest visitors, while older children will enjoy The Tale of the Whale or See You in the Golden Age. Moored outside is the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under-5s free PANCAKE BOAT Choose from a number of cruises every week and, for a set price, everyone can eat as many pancakes as they like with a wide variety of tasty toppings. Ms van Riemsdijkweg opposite nr 38, www.pannenkoekenboot. nl. Various times & prices

Highlight Artis

MICROPIA, SHOWS THE INVISIBLE On 30 September, the Dutch Queen Máxima opened Micropia, the world’s first museum of micro-organisms, the invisible and most powerful life forms on earth. Every human being carries about one and a half kilos of microbes. They’re everywhere, and they shape our world. Experience it yourself by using 3D viewers, specially designed for Micropia, which allow you to see how living microbes move around, eat and reproduce. Navigate through the habitat of extremophiles – micro-organisms that are able to survive the most extreme circumstances. Encounter your own micro-organisms with the body scan. You’ll probably never see yourself, or the world, in the same way again. Micropia is situated at the brand new Artisplein. Plantage Kerklaan 36-38 Open Mon-Wed, Sun 09.00-18.00, Thur-Sat 09.00-20.00 €14, children up to nine €12 Micropia is suitable for children from eight years old.

BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET AGENDA SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Burn off some steam and rubber SPECIAL ARTWORK ON ARTISPLEIN at this indoor go-karting track. NEMO introduces young and Minimum age for karting is eight old to the world of science and Illuminade is a scenic route through historical Amsterdam, years old, minimum height is 1.4 technology. Five floors are alongside the inspiring light installations, artworks and prometres. Helmets and protective filled with exhibitions, theatre jections of the Amsterdam Light Festival. During this unique clothing are included. There’s performances, films, workshops international exposition in public space, upcoming and estabalso a large indoor playground, and demonstrations. Smell, hear, lished (international) artists present their artworks. This year, bowling alley and restaurant. feel and see how the world works. the magnificent artwork ‘Flawless Light’, made by Gonzalo Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet. Everything is interactive! com. Open Mon-Fri 13.00-23.00, Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Bascuñan and Perrine Vichet, will be on display on the brand Sat & Sun 12.00-23.00; €15.75 Open daily 10.00-17.30; €15, new Artisplein. for karting, various packages under-4s free Fri 11 Dec-Sun 4 Jan 2015, Artisplein, Plantage Kerklaan 36-38, available nightfall, free TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR DUTCH RESISTANCE Tropenmuseum Junior was WINTER SOLSTICE MUSEUM JUNIOR created especially for children 21 December is winter solstice. From this day on, the days The Dutch Resistance Museum from ages six to 13 and is focused (Verzetsmuseum) details the on non-Western cultures. The lengthen. With every new day the sun rises a bit higher in the history of the Dutch Resistance interactive exhibits introduce sky. During summer solstice, on 21 June, the sun is visible for in World War II during the children to new cultures in a way more than eight hours longer than in December. Discover country’s occupation by Germany that sparks their curiosity. where these differences in daylight come from and travel to the from May 1940 to May 1945. A Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropen original source of light in our universe. Junior building shows young museum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00Sun 21 Dec, Artis Planetarium, 19.30-21.00, free visitors (nine-14 years) how four 17.00, Mondays during public peers lived during wartime. and school holidays 10.00-17.00; ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS entertainment or crafty workshop Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerk€12.50, ages 4-18 €8, on and plenty of kids’ clothing Every November, Sinterklaas, laan 61, www.verzetsmuseum. under-4s free and toy stalls to browse. the Netherlands’ own version org. Open Mon, Sat-Sun 11.00TUNFUN Sun 2 Nov & Sun 30 Nov (Sinof Father Christmas, travels 17.00, Tue-Fri 10.00-17.00; €8, terklaas edition), Sun 7 Dec & from his home in Spain to the ages 7-15 €4.50, under-7s free TunFun is an indoor paradise for 14 Dec (Funky Xmas Market), Netherlands, bringing presents children under 12. Under adult KINDERKOOKKAFE and special treats for the supervision, kids can enjoy hours Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket.nl. 12.00-18.00; free children. This year marks his The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a of fun in a huge 4000m2 indoor 76th arrival in the city, and the delightful and unique restaurant playground. There’s something THE MAGIC FLUTE jubilee festivities include a boat located near the Vondelpark. for every age and interest: soft After being rescued from a parade along the Amstel followed Here children (ages five to 12) do slides and mini ball pool for serpent by three ladies, Prince by a horse parade through the absolutely everything to help run babies and infants, trampolines Tamino is given a picture of the city centre. Children line the the restaurant, including cooking, and jungle gyms for older kids. queen’s daughter Pamina, who route to wave at Sint and his serving, bartending, tidying up Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. helpers, as traditional sweets rain and running the cash register. Open daily 10.00-18.00; ages 1-12 is enslaved by the evil Sarastro. Armed with a magic flute of down upon them. Vondelpark 6B, www.kinder€8.50, accompanying adults free protection, the prince – who Sun 16 Nov, various locations in kookkafe.nl. Open daily 10.00has instantly fallen in love with the centre, from 10.00, free 17.00; various prices Pamina – and his feathery ICE*AMSTERDAM LOVERS POWERZONE companion Papageno embark on EVENTS a journey to save her. ICE*Amsterdam offers a unique Strike it big at one of the six glowSUNDAY MARKET Sun 9 & 23 Nov 14.30; Sat 13 ice-skating experience on in-the-dark bowling alleys or pit Dec 20.00; Fri 26 Dec 14.30, Sun Amsterdam’s Museumplein, yourself against the enemy on the Artists, designers and crafts28 Dec 14.30; Tue 30 Dec 14.30; with the Rijksmuseum as a laser-tag battleground. people flog their wares and Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, phenomenal backdrop. Head De Ruyterkade 153, www.lovdelicious food and drink is on along for a spot of skating or erspowerzone.nl. Various times offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. www.marionettentheater.nl. €15, under-14s €6 simply to watch the action and & prices There’s always some form of

take in the great atmosphere. Skates are available for hire. From 22 Nov, Museumplein, www.iceamsterdam.nl. €3 + skate hire GIANTS OF THE ICE AGE Embark on a fascinating journey all the way back to prehistory. This major travelling exhibition introduces visitors to extinct Ice Age animals including the mammoth, sabre tooth tiger and cave bear, while exploring what life was like for Neanderthals 30,000 years ago. Giants of the Ice Age looks at how they hunted, the tools they used and the mystery surrounding the world’s oldest art forms. From 27 Nov, Amsterdam EXPO, Gustav Mahlerlaan 24, www. amsterdamexpo.nl. Open daily 09.00-18.00, Fri until 21.00; €16, ages 6-18 €10.50, under-5s free WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another seasonal run. See page 19. Thur 18 Dec-Sun 4 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, Amstel 115 /125, https://carre.nl. Various times, €10-€54 WINTER CIRCUS AMSTERDAM The Winter Circus takes place in a custom tent next to the ArenA and features a mixture of old and new performance techniques – acrobatics and plate spinning will be joined by the likes of a motorcycle stunt team, Russian juggler Semen Viktor Krachinov and horse whisperer Guillome Assire Becar. Sat 20 Dec-Sun 4 Jan, ArenA Park, Anton de Komplein 150, www.wintercircusamsterdam.nl. Various times; €15-€49 DANCING IN THE ROYAL FOYER Kids can strut their stuff at this afternoon dance workshop ‘Kom Dansen in de Koninklijke Foyer’, located in one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful ballrooms. This edition of the ongoing series focuses on modern dance, street dancing and hip hop. No experience required. Tue 23 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26, stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl. 13:30 (ages 6 & up) & 14.45 (ages 8 & up); €5 FANTASIA IN CONCERT You’ve never seen Fantasia quite like this! Walt Disney’s 1940 masterpiece, combined with live orchestral accompaniment and a gigantic HD screen, will offer you and your family the perfect holiday treat. Fri 26 Dec, Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100, www.ziggodome.nl. 15.00 & 20.00; €19.50-€69.50 BLUE PLANET IN CONCERT The Arnhem Philharmonic Orchestra, along with a little help from the biggest HD screen in Europe, will bring the BBC nature documentary to life in a performance that’s perfect for animal-lovers of all ages. Sat 27 Dec, Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100, www.ziggodome.nl. 20.00; €29.50-€69.50

PART IV THE A-LIST

GAY & LESBIAN

SPORTS FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Friday of the month, this free Get your skates on for the weekly group running event is open Friday Night Skate, an institution to both recreational and more in Amsterdam. Departing from serious sportsters. Beginners can the Vondelpark, the skating join in the 40-minute run at a routes take in all areas of the city, slower tempo and there’s also the allowing you to skate in places standard one-hour run. where you wouldn’t on your own. Fri 14 Nov & 12 Dec, Olympic Every Fri, Vondelpark Pavilion, Stadium, www.fridaynightrun. www.fridaynightskate.com. nl. 19.30, free 20.30, free AJAX V SC HEERENVEEN AJAX V FC The ‘Super Fresians’ make the trip DORDRECHT from the north of the country for Amsterdam’s finest take on the this Eredivisie match, a contest ‘sheep heads’ (their nickname – that’s always a safe bet for plenty not us being derogatory) in this of goals: last season’s matches Eredivisie duel. FC Dordrecht ended 3-3 at Heerenveen and 3-0 secured promotion last season, here at the ArenA. taking them back to the top flight Sat 22 Nov, Amsterdam ArenA, for the first time since 1995. ArenA Boulevard, www.amster Sat 1 Nov, Amsterdam ArenA, damarena.nl. 20.45, ArenA Boulevard, www. various prices amsterdamarena.nl. 18.30, FRIDAY NIGHT RUN various prices NIEUW-WEST STADIONLOOP The District of Nieuw-West gets The Stadionloop is the final in on the evening running action event in the Rondje Mokum with their very own Friday Night (Amsterdam Circuit) programme Run. The route varies each week of running competitions. and there are two groups to join: Alongside the professional 10km one departing for a 30-minute run event, there’s also a 5km and and another that takes an hour. 10km event for recreational Fri 28 Nov & 19 Dec, Sportpark runners, all starting and finishing Ookmeer, Willinklaan 7, www. at Amsterdam’s famous Olympic aacamsterdam.nl. 19.30, free Stadium. And for younger AJAX V WILLEM II runners under 13, there’s a special 1km event. Tilburg-based club Willem Sun 9 Nov, Olympic Stadium, II finished top of the Jupiler www.olympischstadionloop.nl. League last season and return 12.00, €11 (10km) to once again try their luck in the Netherlands’ premier THE NETHERLANDS V league. Willem II are certainly MEXICO no strangers to success: back The footballing pride of the in 1999, they finished second Netherlands takes on Mexico and consequently took on the in a friendly leading up to their Champion’s League challenge. European Qualifier against Sat 6 Dec, Amsterdam ArenA, Latvia the following Sunday ArenA Boulevard, www.amster (16 November, also in the damarena.nl. 20.45, Amsterdam ArenA). various prices Wed 12 Nov, Amsterdam ArenA, AMSTERDAM SWIM CUP ArenA Boulevard, www.amster damarena.nl. 20.30, Jump in to this three-day event various prices aimed at promoting the sport

EVENTS

Highlight sports

while having plenty of watery fun. The Amsterdam Swim Cup is open to swimmers of varying proficiencies but it’s also a qualifying tournament for the 2015 FINA World Championships in Russia, so expect to see a host of top Dutch and international swimmers taking to the water. Fri 12-Sun 14 Dec, Sloterparkbad, President Allendelaan 3, www. amsterdamswimcup.nl. Various times, €TBA AJAX V FC UTRECHT For many Utrecht supporters, the match against Ajax at the ArenA is one of the highlights of the season: there’s nothing they like more than leaving with a win under their belts. As such, it’s traditionally no walk in the park for the team from Amsterdam. Sun 14 Dec, Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Boulevard, www.amster damarena.nl. 12.30, various prices

LOCATIONS KLIMHAL AMSTERDAM The perfect place for the beginner and the advanced climber. Its main wall is 21 metres high. Naritaweg 48, www.klimhal amsterdam.nl. Various times & prices DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam. Enjoy a fun and safe event for beginners, or a more challenging climb for experienced rock hoppers. Courses available. Dijksgracht 2, www.deklim muur.nl. Various times & prices KNIJN BOWLING Ten-pin bowling for everyone: suitable for family events, beginners or competitive players. One of its most popular occasions is Disco Bowling. Scheldeplein 3, www.knijnbowl ing.nl. Various times & prices LASERCITY AMSTERDAM Less painful than paintballing, the laser gaming adventures on offer here are perfect for large and small group outings. VOC-kade 14, www.laser gamenamsterdam.nl. Various times & prices SKI INN AMSTERDAM Whether you’re looking to warm up for a winter vacation or just curious to try your hand at a spot of skiing or snowboarding, you can do just that in the heart of Amsterdam. The indoor rolling slopes are adaptable for all skill levels. WG Plein 281, www.ski-inn.nl. Various times & prices

ICE SKATING When the temperatures dip, the Dutch start dreaming of another frozen winter and the prospect of ice-skating outdoors. But even if the canals don’t freeze, there are plenty of spots in Amsterdam to practice your jumps and twirls: the Jaap Eden rink is open throughout winter and a number of smaller rinks pop up around the city (those at Museumplein and Leidseplein are traditional favourites). Jaap Eden IJsbaan, Radioweg 64, www.jaapeden.nl. Various times & prices

SLOTEN GOLF COURSE This nine-hole golf course on the outskirts of Amsterdam features both wooded and water areas. Head on to the fairway or practice your swing at the driving range. Day memberships are available. Sloterweg 1045, www.golf baansloten.nl. Open Mon-Fri 08.30-18.00, various prices

REGULAR EVENTS NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21.00, various prices TUESDAY BLUESDAY Club night with a special focus on blues, soul and contemporary music. Every Tue, Same Place, 21.00 DRINK & COCKTAIL EVENING Enjoy a mouth-watering cocktail at drag show bar Lellebel. Every Thur, Lellebel, 20.00 BLUE Kooky clubbing with Amsterdam’s drag supremo Jennifer Hopelezz. Drinks are just €2.50. Every Thur, Church, 22.00, €5

CATACOMBE Dress code: fetish, leather, latex, metal, uniform, rubber. Apply for tickets via the website: www. catacombe.nl. Sat 8 Nov, Church, 22.00-05.00 NETHERBEARS AT THE QUEEN’S HEAD Bi-weekly bear get-together. Sun 9 & 23 Nov, 14 & 28 Dec, The Queen’s Head, www.nether bears.nl, 19.00 FURBALL Hairy men dance party for the butch & bears. Sat 15 Nov, Church, 22.0005.00, €10 GARBO FOR WOMEN Ladies-only meet-up. Sat 15 Nov & 20 Dec, Strand West, 18.00, €8 SPANK! An afternoon of corporal punishment. Men only. Sun 16 Nov, Church, 16.0020.00, €10

THE PONY CLUB HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Three floors of DJs spin an energetic mix of pop, disco, Big willy gay sex party. Drop ’em house and electro alongside and if you measure up, entrance performances to lift your spirits. is free. Every Thur, Club NYX, 23.00, €5, Sun 16 & 21 Nov, The Warehouse, free before midnight 15.00, €8 THANK GOD IT’S FRIDAY Celebrate the weekend with tunes, nibbles and drinks. Every Fri, Engel van Amsterdam, 17.00, free

XXXLEATHER LOS Dress code: rubber, leather, army, uniform, skinhead. Sun 23 Nov, Church, 16.0020.00, €10

THANK GODDESS, IT’S FRIDAY Welcome the weekend with live performances and an open stage. Every Fri, Lellebel, 20.00

LGBTQ OOSTERPART & LGBTQ CAFE Low-key neighbourhood drinks in the east of the city. Fri 28 Nov & 26 Dec, Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel, Linnaeusstraat 89, www. lgbtqooster park.blogspot.com, 21.00, free

ZONDERBROEK Drop all your pretences and dance without trousers. Every Fri & Sun, Church, various times, €10 GAY PUB CRAWL Does exactly what it says in the tin, taking in ‘Gay Street’s finest drinking establishments. Every Sat, departs Taboo, 20.00

BEAR NECESSITY Party for (muscle-)bears, hairy hunks, beefy boys, cubs, otters and everyone else. Sat 27 Dec, Odeon, 23.00, €20

ADDRESSES Church Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4, www.lellebel.nl BUBBLES & BITES Marnixbad Free bites from 17.00-1900; cheap Marnixplein 1, www.hetmarnix.nl bubbles – just €2.50 – all night. Club NYX Every Sun, Prik, 16.00 Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR Odeon Because why wouldn’t you want Singel 460 to start the working week with a www.odeonamsterdam.nl hangover? Prik Every Sun, Taboo, 18.00 Mosterdpotsteeg 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl SUNDAY CAROUSEL The Queen’s Head Be transported to exotic climes Zeedijk 20, www.queenshead.nl with Arabian and Turkish music Same Place courtesy of old and new divas. Nassaukade 120 Every Sun, Lellebel, 22.00 www.sameplace.nl Strand West Stavangerweg 900 www.garboforwomen.nl ONE-OFF EVENTS Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 GAY MOVIE NIGHT www.taboobar.nl Enjoy a screening of the gems of The Warehouse gay cinema. Warmoesstraat 96 Wed 5 Nov & 3 Dec, Pathé de www.warehouseamsterdam.com Munt, Vijzelstraat 15 21.00, €10 IT’S SHOWTIME FOLKS It’s show time almost every night at Lellebel, the most outrageous drag show bar in town, but Saturdays are especially fabulous. Every Sat, Lellebel, 20.00

VISITOR INFORMATION

nov & dec 2014

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Information Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city. THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Haarlem, the fortified towns and castles of the fortress stretch, historical country estates along the River Vecht, and the peaceful Amstel River countryside – and of course, your journey to and from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from Visitor Information Centres or from GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES FOR INFORMATION AND TO BOOK EXCURSIONS, VISIT ONE OF THE VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES IN AMSTERDAM: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 10.00-17.00 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00 *Last Minute Ticket Shop

I AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE APP Visit Amsterdam and leave your guidebook at home! You’ll find everything you need to know on the I amsterdam City Guide app. Download for free at iTunes App Store (for iPhone, iPad & iPod touch), Google Play Store (for Android devices).

LAST MINUTE TICKET SHOPS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of performance. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop screens and buy tickets at the following locations for same-day performances: VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open daily 10.00-17.00 STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM Leidseplein 26 Open Mon-Sat 12.00-18.00 AMSTERDAM PUBLIC LIBRARY (OBA) Oosterdokskade 143 Open Mon-Fri 10.00-19.30; Sat & Sun 10.00-18.00 www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

beyond amsterdam

CLOSING

BEYOND

‘GOOD ART IS SOMETHING THAT HAS A SENSE OF IMMEDIACY TO IT, SOMETHING THAT GOES AGAINST THE GRAIN OF SOMETHING ELSE – WHETHER IT’S AESTHETICALLY OR CONCEPTUALLY OR POLITICALLY.’

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

SEE BEN FROST’S ARTISTIC MANIFESTO IN ACTION, AT LE GUESS WHO?

SWANS

text Megan Roberts

LE GUESS WHO? Fifteen venues – from churches and galleries to traditional pop platforms – present the best of today’s burgeoning musical talent alongside established acts, for four days across the charming city of Utrecht. Of special note is the programme curated by Swans’ Michael Gira, featuring performances by legendary UK post-punk band Wire, New York psychedelic/electronic pioneers Silver Apples, Dominick Fernow’s Prurient, Carla Bozulich (Evangelista), Jenny Hval and minimal noise tyrant Ben Frost. 20-23 November, Utrecht http://leguesswho.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Utrecht take around 50min.

MIDWINTERFEEST DE RIJP One of the Netherlands’ prettiest villages, De Rijp also boasts some of North Holland’s oldest wooden houses. It’s fitting, then, that the locals step back in time to celebrate the holiday season. A winter market, musical, artistic and cultural performances – plus locals in period costume – re-create village life at the turn of the last century. 13 & 14 December, De Rijp www.midwinterfeest-graftderijp.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, bus 301 takes around 60min.

THE FUTURE OF FASHION IS NOW Rotterdam’s Museum Boijmans van Beuningen celebrates the works of a new generation of designers, who explore sustainability, futuristic technologies and the social value of clothes. Clothes and accessories, videos and installations come from 50 international artists, including rebellious design duo Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Coppens (Belgium) and Hussein Chalayan (who made that airmail jacket for bonkers Icelandic songstress Björk). You’ll find a jacket that charges your phone by inbuilt solar panels as well as garments that challenge our perception of beauty – and even of clothing itself. Until 18 January Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, Rotterdam www.boijmans.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Rotterdam take 60min.

‘WE ARE SPARKS THAT MUST GLOW AS BRIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE.’ SEE HOW BRIGHT ASGER JORN’S SPARK GLOWED, AT AMSTELVEEN’S COBRA MUSEUM.

‘FROM THE DINNER-HOUR TO THE TERMINATION OF THE DAY, THE ARMS, TO A GRACEFUL HEIGHT ABOVE THE ELBOW, MAY BE BARE; AND THE NECK AND SHOULDERS UNVEILED AS FAR AS DELICACY WILL ALLOW.’ THE ENGLISH LADY’S COSTUME (LONDON, 1811).

NEW YEAR’S DIVE Diving into the North Sea on the first day of the New Year has been a tradition in the Netherlands since the 1960s when a swimming club decided it would be a ‘refreshing’ start to the year. Although the biggest ‘Nieuwjaarsduik’ is in Scheveningen (The Hague), there are several other beaches closer to home (Zandvoort, for example) where you can join in – or observe – this chilly ritual. 1 January, Zandvoort

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Zandvoort aan Zee take around 30min.

SEE AUTHENTIC ROMANTIC FASHION, AT GEMEENTEMUSEUM, THE HAGUE.

ROMANTIC FASHION — MR DARCY MEETS ELINE VERE We can’t promise Colin Firth in a wet shirt, but we can guarantee rustling silk, breathtaking embroidery, frills and flounces and vast crinolines. Den Haag’s Gemeentemuseum takes visitors on a romantic trip back in time to the world of Pride and Prejudice, Jane Eyre and their Dutch equivalent Eline Vere, with costumes, period accessories and original fashion photos and prints. Contemporary creations – by Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and Edwin Oudshoorn, among others – show how the 19th century still influences fashion today, as modern designers continue to draw inspiration from its forms, silhouettes and techniques. If you’ve been swooning at Downton Abbey, this one’s for you… Until 22 March, Gemeentemuseum, The Hague www.gemeentemuseum.nl GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to The Hague take around 50min.

TRACES: 100 YEARS ASGER JORN Marking the hundredth anniversary of the birth of Danish Cobra artist Asger Jorn (1914-1973), with works by Jorn alongside selected works by his contemporaries. Featuring significant contributions to one of the 20th century’s major avant-garde artistic movements, paintings, prints, drawings, musical experiments and ceramics can be seen alongside documentation and publications that reveal his unique views about the place of the artist in society. Until 18 January Cobra Museum, Amstelveen www.cobra-musuem.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, catch bus 170 (direction Uithoorn via Amstelveen) to stop Busstation Amstelveen or take tram 5 or metro 51. Journey time: 40min.

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

ROKIN, 1899 Tracing the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, one image at a time.

then & now

LATE REMBRANDT Presenting a comprehensive overview of the Old Master’s work from around 1652 to his death in 1669.

12 February-17 May Rijksmuseum

Theatre Republique and British cult band The Tiger Lillies turn Shakespeare’s classic into an explosion of music and images. 16 & 17 January Stadsschouwburg

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IL VIAGGIO A REIMS

LIONEL RICHIE

A new artistic team presents a new take on Rossini’s last opera in the Italian language.

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20 January8 February Dutch National Opera & Ballet

All the hits, all night long. 5 February Ziggo Dome

CROSS-LINX

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HET ROKIN SEEN FROM THE DIRECTION OF DAM SQUARE, 1896. FROM THE BUILDING OF ‘ARTI ET AMICITIA’ ON THE CORNER OF SPUI. OIL ON CANVAS, 116 X 146CM. COLLECTION DE NEDERLANDSCHE BANK

HAMLET

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Until 1 February 2015 Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 3 https://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

JAN & FEB 2015

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BREITNER CAPTURES AMSTERDAM Back in the late 19th century, with the North Sea Canal recently opened, the main mode of transport in Amsterdam was the boat, and many of the city’s main thoroughfares were originally canals. As the transport profile of the city changed, many waterways were filled in and paved over, making way for road traffic. Rokin (originally part of the River Amstel) suffered this fate in 1936, less than 50 years after Amsterdam street artist George Hendrik Breitner (1857-1923) captured a rainy morning here. Today, many of Rokin’s gaudy souvenir shops and tourist attractions are obscured by the construction works on the North/South metro line, but the city is rolling out a new ‘red carpet’ for this important thoroughfare, widening pavements, pedestrianizing sections and generally smartening things up. Breitner was a prolific artist, capturing his city during times of great change and upheaval. In sketchbooks, on canvas and using a camera, he recorded tram horses on Dam square, urban renewal in the old centre and the construction sites of new neighbourhoods on the outskirts of the city. A wide selection of these works is displayed in Breitner in Amsterdam, an exhibition at the City Archives. If you blur your eyes on a rainy morning, you’ll see that the more things change, the more they stay the same…

NEXT ISSUE

American singer Mark Lanegan and UK electronic act Squarepusher headline the indie-classical crossover festival. 11-14 February Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

photos Zlatka Siljdedic

on the way out

NICOLE ROSS (23), PARALEGAL, & LIZZIE BARTRAM (25), ADMINISTRATOR AT BRISTOL UNIVERSITY, FROM BRISTOL, UK ‘We spent five days in an Amsterdam hostel, visiting a friend who’s travelling around Europe. A definite highlight was going to a university warehouse party – where a DJ from Bristol was playing! To get a good sense of the city, avoid the tourist stuff. We’ll definitely be coming back – the boys are so tall and handsome!’

JOANA BARBOSA (24), JOURNALIST, FROM PORTO ALEGRE, BRASIL, FLYING TO MANCHESTER ‘I’m only in Amsterdam for nine hours before I fly to Manchester, where I’ll spend three months improving my English. I want to go to the main library – I hear the views from the top are amazing – and also to sample some apple tart and go to the EYE Filmmuseum. I’ll come back to Amsterdam in March for tulip season.’

RAY JOHNSON (57), CORROSION ENGINEER, FROM GRIMSBY, UK ‘I’ve been working in Rotterdam for four weeks. Amsterdam is a beautiful city. The people are cultured, helpful and polite – all over Holland, in fact. It’s a pity people aren’t like that where I come from!’

ANTONIO DOMINGUEZ DIEZ (35), WORKS IN FINANCE, & PAQUI ALVAREZ DOLS (34), FROM SEVILLE & MALLORCA, SPAIN ‘We’ve been in Amsterdam for three days as part of a seven-day cruise that stopped off in Hamburg, Paris, Southampton, Le Havre and London – and we definitely liked Amsterdam the best. We took a great three-hour walking tour. Our tour guide spoke Spanish and led us through the centre, Red Light District, Jordaan and Jewish Amsterdam.’

FERNANDO ARDANA (31), PHD STUDENT, & EVA MARÍA RODRIGUEZ (31), KINDERGARTEN TEACHER, FROM CÁDIZ & GRANADA, SPAIN ‘We just arrived today. Eva goes to Uganda tomorrow to volunteer for three months, and I’m going to stay for a few days longer. It’s our first time here. We’re going to just walk around a lot – especially around the canals, which we’ve been told are very beautiful.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Dara Colwell, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Elisah Jacobs, Herman de Jong ( Blue Photo), Janna Reinsma, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Joke van der Wey, Sharon Wezeman, Anna Whitehouse, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Dave Nice), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Piet Paris

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