A-Mag Sept/Oct 2017 by amsterdam&partners

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 5 N0 5 SEP & OCT 2017

ONLY THE BEST

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE We're putting an official end to your Amsterdam wonderings and wanderings: here is the best of the city, in a handy guide that covers everything from vintage treasure troves to Dutch fine dining, so that all you've got left to do is enjoy the fruits of our hard work.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Unseen and NEU NOW put emerging artists in the spotlight, while Fringe and the Dutch Theatre Festival bring incredible stage performances to the city – and much, much more.

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch hopes you'll hop on a bike to tour beautiful Noord-Oost, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.65 CLOSING Get out of town with our adventurous suggestions, and top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.49 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

Amsterdam is in a state of flux. And that’s an understatement. I’ve lived in this city for over 30 years and never have I seen it change so fast as now. Take just my own neighbourhood. When I arrived there was nothing to do. Two worn-out bars for the local drunks, a snackbar, a street full of stores that sold curtains, sewing machines and many other things you don’t need when you’re 20. But look now. Yesterday I noticed a Yoghurt Barn a block from my house. I don’t know what a yoghurt barn is and cannot imagine anyone ever needing one, but my partner acted like I was crazy.‘ I go there all the time,’ she said. ‘I get my yoghurt there, with fresh fruit, it’s really good.’ ’What do you mean all the time,’ I said, ‘that place opened yesterday!’ ‘No it didn’t,’ she rolled her eyes. She was right. Yoghurt Barn has been open for some time now. I just didn’t notice it, because places here change so quickly. Just the other day my favorite new beer shop shut its doors after only a couple of months – that one did not escape my attention, for some reason. I like my IPAs and seasonal beers, and I keep up with what the local brewing community has come up with this time (try the new Biri from Brouwerij ’t IJ!). But it was gone. Dammit. But what do you know, yesterday another beer shop opened up, just around the corner. Where my Turkish grocery store stood only a week before. Just saying, things change fast in Amsterdam. The butcher around the corner moved to Hoofddorp, my wine guy closed shop, and my local bakery gave way to a much hipper one with double the prices. It made us think, here at A-mag, that we are in dire need of someone to keep up with all the snap changes and to test the best (and the worst). Karin Engelbrecht fit that job precisely. Our culinary writer seems to be doing nothing else than shop and have lunch all day. She knows where to get the finest. Read her authoritative guide starting from page 10. Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief, A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: +31 (0)20 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

sep & oct 2017

OPENING

What’s new?

‘IF HYGGE IS OVER THEN THE DUTCH WORD GEZELLIG – THAT CAN MEAN ANYTHING FROM GREGARIOUS TO COSY – IS SURELY SET TO STEP UP.’

(in town)

All the latest cultural news, plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

WRITER JULIE BURCHILL PREDICTS A SHIFT IN THE ZEITGEIST AFTER VISITING THIS CITY.

text Mark Smith

HOUSE SPECIAL

FRANK FILM Plans are afoot to adapt the Dutch-language biography of Bep Voskuijl, the typist who worked for Anne Frank’s father, into a Hollywood film. Voskuijl worked for businessman Otto Frank before the outbreak of World War II and later tried to save her former employer’s family from the Holocaust. Co-authored by Voskuijl’s son, Joop van Wijk, and Flemish journalist Jeroen De Bruyn, the 2015 book claims to shed light on the identity of the informer who gave up the Frank family, leading to the death of diarist Anne at Bergen-Belsen at the age of 15. Using testimony, the book suggests that it was Bep’s younger sister, Nelly, who revealed the whereabouts of the family to the SS, motivated by anger at her sister and father for being sympathetic toward the Jews.

For more than 65 years, KLM’s blue and white Delftware miniatures – ceramic replicas of canal houses, filled with traditional Dutch genever and handed out to the airline’s business class passengers – have been something of an aviation icon. The houses on which the collectibles are based are dotted around the Netherlands, chosen for their appealing aesthetics or historic significance. But when the airline wanted to show its appreciation for its top 30 customers earlier this year, it went the extra (air)mile, enlisting Amsterdam-based 3D printing specialist Local Makers to create one-off houses based on the clients’ actual homes. Fancy commissioning one of your own? Just head to the store in De Pijp with a photo of your house (and a considerable sum of money). localmakers.com

IN MEMORIAM Three years after the tragedy that resulted in the loss of 298 lives, a national monument to victims of Malaysia Airlines flight MH17 has been unveiled in Vijfhuizen, a short drive from Schiphol airport, where many of the victims would have said their final goodbyes. The monument takes the form of an upward-looking steel eye 16 metres wide, surrounded by a young forest made up of 298 trees representing growth, hope and life.

DEAR ALL The municipality of Amsterdam has taken another step towards gender neutrality, scrapping the expression ‘ladies and gentlemen’ in correspondence. City officials will switch instead to forms of address such as ‘Dear resident’. In this regard, Amsterdam is following the example of the London Underground, where tannoys now greet passengers with a cheery ‘Hello everyone.’ Last year, bathrooms at Amsterdam’s City Hall went gender neutral.

‘THROUGHOUT THE CITY THERE ARE AS MANY CANALS AND DRAWBRIDGES AS BRACELETS ON A GYPSY’S BRONZED ARMS.’

‘THE BODY OF A PORTALOO IS RECOVERED FROM THE PRINSENGRACHT AFTER TRAGIC SEWERCIDE.’

THE LATE SPANISH AUTHOR FELIX MARTI-IBANEZ OFFERED A POETIC PERSPECTIVE ON AMSTERDAM’S WATERWAYS.

TWITTER USER STEVE WHITE HAS FUN WITH PUNS.

LONDON CALLING The beautiful builder who was spotted less than a year ago on a central Amsterdam construction site before being propelled into the limelight via Instagram is heading to London to make his fortune. Nicky Libert, 26, became a hivisibility hero in November 2016 when a tourist posted his picture on the photo-sharing app, with the hashtag #someonesignhim. After the image went viral (there were hundreds of thousands of likes and shares) the world’s model agencies obliged, bombarding Nicky with offers. He signed with the Amsterdam branch of the well-known agency Elite Model Management, and has since put his construction work on hold, appearing in advertising for Dutch brands including the denim giant G-Star. Now he’s hoping to make it in the Big Smoke, having signed with London agency Leni’s Model Management.

WHOLE OTTER LOVE A much-admired 17th century windmill that had been threatened with relocation can now stay put, it has been ruled. Nicknamed ‘the Otter’, the structure on Gillis van Ledenberchstraat in the Oud-West neighbourhood of Amsterdam had been the subject of a legal dispute since 2012, when its owner first applied for permission to move it to an industrial heritage park in the distant town of Uitgeest.

ON THE APP A new app from the makers of your favourite magazine (that’s this one, FYI) is now available for you to download. I amsterdam Maps & Routes – for that is its name – will help you to expand your horizons, discovering cool new neighbourhoods and winning prizes as you go. It’s a kind of interactive treasure hunt, with participants battling it out on a leaderboard for swag including City Cards, gift vouchers for the I amsterdam Store, and cool Amsterdam neighbourhoods tote bags. Ready, steady, go for it!

sep & oct 2017

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘THE TRAMS, BESIDES COMING FROM THE WRONG DIRECTION, ARE ALSO UNUSUALLY SILENT.’ VISITING LONDON TIMES COLUMNIST ROBERT FRAMPTON URGES CAUTION IN AMSTERDAM.

A Twitter account devoted to burning the words of Donald Trump has been revealed to be the work of an American living in Amsterdam. Freelance creative technologist David Neevel is the bright spark behind the @burnedyourtweet handle, which only ever tweets one phrase, ‘I burned your Tweet,’ always in reply to something that the US president’s account has emitted. But here’s the clever bit – every dispatch is accompanied by a short film of Trump’s original ejaculation being printed out, ignited with a cigarette lighter, and dumped in an ashtray to smoulder. It’s a mesmerising process and it happens entirely automatically, by way of bot! ‘I find Amsterdam to be very fertile – there are a lot of weird folks doing a lot of weird things,’ says Neevel.

TOP 5 to do

FIERY WORDS

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 UNSEEN AMSTERDAM The now legendary photo fair enriches the Westergasfabriek in September, bringing the best images created by contemporary photographers around the world. 22-24 SEPTEMBER Westergasfabriek unseenamsterdam.com



2 NEU NOW A platform for emerging artists, NEU NOW presents the work of the fresh crop of

graduates from the world’s leading art institutions, from visual arts to film and stage performances. 14-17 SEPTEMBER Westergasfabriek neunow.eu



3 ADE One of the world’s leading Electronic Dance Music events returns to the city with 2,200 artists throwing concerts and parties in more than 120 Amsterdam venues – but also, many industry-focused events such as debates, lectures and workshops. 18-22 OCTOBER Various locations amsterdam-dance-event.nl

4 FRINGE FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival’s quirky little sister graces more than 40 of the city’s stages with fun, kooky, avant-garde performances. 7-17 SEPTEMBER Various locations amsterdamfringefestival.nl

5 KLIK ANIMATION FESTIVAL A full week of all the world's best animated films in one place, from kids' stuff to video games to the politicallyengaged. 17-22 OCTOBER EYE klik.amsterdam



‘I DROPPED MY PANTS IN A TATTOO PARLOUR IN AMSTERDAM. I WOKE UP IN A WATERBED WITH THIS FUNKYLOOKING DRAGON WITH A BLUE TONGUE ON MY HIP.’

‘SELFIE SELFIE PORTRAIT WITH DUTCH MASTER.’ U2 GRAB A SNAP WITH ANTON CORBIJN, BACKSTAGE AT THE ARENA IN LATE JULY.

WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE, ANGELINA JOLIE…

ALL’S FARE

NO FILTER No pressure, dear visitor, but Amsterdam has been deemed one of the top ten most Instagrammable places on earth. Jeremy Jauncey, the creator of the list, should know – he founded a website called Beautiful Destinations. Our city, he notes, is a veritable mine of likeable pictures thanks to its reflective surfaces. Thanks, Jez. Also-rans include San Francisco and Venice, a place in Italy that’s sometimes referred to as ‘the Amsterdam of the South.’

London’s iconic black cabs could soon be a common sight on the streets of Amsterdam, thanks to expansion plans from the Chineseowned London Taxi Company. Chief Executive Chris Gubbey said the firm had chosen the Netherlands as its first export market for a new electric version of the Hackney carriage because of Amsterdam’s receptiveness to new technology. Still, it’s quite a way south of the river, mate…

SOFT CELL September brings the opportunity to stay in a hotel with a difference, while making a difference in the lives of recentlyarrived Amsterdammers. The Movement Hotel is a pop-up social enterprise in the Bijlmerbajes, the notorious former prison near the Amstel railway station. The building will be demolished in early 2018, but for the time being it’s home to some 600 refugees, many of whom are entitled to work and are looking for opportunities to do so. After a crowdfunding campaign to raise enough money to equip 16 former cells with all the modern conveniences you’d expect, The Movement Hotel is being run by refugees who’ve been trained in the art of hospitality. Guests will get a guided tour of the clink, too. themovementhotel.com

PART I UP CLOSE

best of amsterdam

THE VERY BEST

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by all this cool, creative city has to offer, so we’ve gone ahead and selected for you all the top things to try, buy and experience. KING OF BURGERS Ter Marsch & Co reminds us that burgers are about the perfect blend of bun, beef and melty cheese, so we’re crowning ‘The Royal Dutch’ Amsterdam’s best: a custom blend of dry-aged ribeye and Japanese Wagyu (served unapologetically medium-rare!) topped with ponzu Sambia gravy, Old Amsterdam custard and Remeker crunch, fermented mini pickles and pancetta, plus the city’s best brioche bun. You’ll find it and other burger options – three have won (inter)national awards − near the famous floating flower market. Need more convincing? They also do fries with cannabis sauce! termarschco.nl

From local sneaker makers to the juiciest burger to beauty movers and shakers – even the ultimate spots to selfie that new-found glow – our Best of Amsterdam guide takes the aimless out of your city wanderings. text Karin Engelbrecht

MOKUM’S FINEST

he question our editorial team is asked most often is: ‘What’s your favourite…[insert restaurant, shop, club, sight]?’. We think it’s a sign of how far our city’s retail and food-scape has come because we remember just how recently there was only one gourmet burger spot, one local denim brand, one decent cocktail bar and, aside from beer and genever, only a few local liquor labels. With so much more to see and do these days, Amsterdam can be a touch intimidating, even for those of us lucky enough to live here. We all have feeds full of pretty pics by prettier bloggers who paint a scene that rarely lives up to its promise in real life. That impeccably styled rijsttafel that looked so beguiling… but turned out to be bland. Those endless lists of Amsterdam ‘hotspots’. The difficulty finding genuine recommendations that only Amsterdammers know about: that perfect indie store situated in a little-known neighbourhood nook, or the latest must-have Amsterdam-made brand. The struggle is real, so whether you use our tried-and-true selection of the most impressive (or underrated!) places and products as your Amsterdam bucket list or merely as a good place to begin, we’re confident they’ll more than meet your expectations.

MOST LUST-WORTHY LOCAL LEATHER CULT LABEL Since launching in 2003 with the nowfamous Möbius shoe, Rem D. Koolhaas’s architectural footwear label United Nude has become a fashion trendsetter. Current collabs include Issey Miyake and Iris van Herpen. unitednude.com

UPCOMING DESIGNER Atelier 10Tien balances simple handbag shapes with out-there materials, such as iridescent beetle shells, salamander, springbok skin and metallic python, all fully customisable and responsibly sourced, of course. atelier10tien.com

COVETABLE KICKS Filling Pieces, an Amsterdam footwear label known for its so-called ‘low top’ sneaker design with sleek, clean-cut uppers and an elongated tongue with embossed logo, is a fashion insider’s favourite. fillingpieces.com

> Ter Marsch & Co

PART I UP CLOSE

best of amsterdam

‘With so much to see and do these days, Amsterdam can be a touch intimidating’ BEST ROOFTOP BAR MR PORTER Sure, every city has a rooftop bar with spectacular vistas, an exclusive pool or buzzing scene, but MR PORTER at the W Amsterdam has all three. Lounge alongside the see-and-be-seen splash pool with unparalleled views of the Royal Palace (and of the uncommonly attractive staff), while exploring the ‘borders between dinner and sinner’. mrportersteakhouse.com G-Star RAW

BEST CONCEPT STORES BEST LOCAL SELECTION The 700 m 2 X Bank is the place to splash out on deluxe Dutch design, from ultra-chrome print still lifes to quirky Clonette doll vases, penis print coffee mugs and Delft Blue dinosaurs. Hipsterish Hutspot mixes high-end with affordable finds, from trendy bikes to streetwear and decorative city maps. And, the I amsterdam Store sells a range of accessible souvenirs, such as scarves and bicycle bells inspired by Dutch Masters, as well as local chocolate bars, beers and pickles. xbank.amsterdam hutspot.com iamsterdam.com

MOST EFFORTLESSLY CHIC The two stylists behind Things I Like Things I Love harmoniously blend hip houseplants and earthy ceramic tableware with low-key local jewellery and their own ‘one size’ (XS to M) women’s fashion label (think black kimono jumpsuits, velvet slip dresses and open-back tops with matching lacy bras). thingsilikethingsilove.com

With the world’s highest concentration of denim brands, there’s BEST perhaps no better DUTCH place to splurge on designer jeans DENIM than in Amsterdam, the world’s denim capital, and these standouts are a cut above the rest: MOST WEARABLE Traditional craftsmanship meets contemporary local cool at DENHAM the Jeanmaker, where fail-safe wardrobe essentials for the whole family are suspended from scissor hooks on indigo walls. denhamthejeanmaker.com

BEST NEW COLLAB Scotch & Soda celebrates the ADE with a Felix the Cat collection, featuring vintage illustrations on cropped women’s blue jeans and leather bomber jackets, and kittycovered kids’ jeans in washed black denim. scotch-soda.com

MOST COLOURFUL Luxury street denim brand G-Star R AW updates its range of iconic printed Elwood X25 jeans − designed by Pharrell Williams − in October, with royal tartans, tiger prints and checks in eye-popping colours for him and her. g-star.com

LEKKERSTE LOCAL LIQUOR In addition to the usual old-school genevers, we sampled a range of unexpected local spirits, from limoncello, spiced rum and vodka to a bottled ‘whiskey cocktail’, but these booze brands blew us away: BEST NEW-STYLE GIN Vørding’s Gin, infused with toasted red cedar wood, juniper and cinnamon, topped our taste test for its smooth, smoky and complex f lavour, and we’re fangirling hard for the clean, uncluttered pharmacy bottle packaging with its hand-written batch number, too. vordingsgin.com

BEST DISCOVERY Inspired by the great Dutch explorers of the Golden Age and Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus, one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, the Netherlands’ first vermouth, Willem’s Wermoed, is a taste sensation. No wonder, considering that its white wine base is f lavoured with 24 botanicals, including wild thyme, pine tops and cherry stems. willemswermoed.com

I amsterdam Store

LUSCIOUS RIJSTTAFELS If one good thing came from the Dutch rule over the East Indies, it’s certainly the DutchIndonesian hybrid rijsttafel (‘rice table’), created in colonial times to give visiting dignitaries a taste of what the ‘spice islands’ had to offer. Try it here: BEST TRADITIONALIST At Blauw, vegetarian, meat, and fish options are served in sleek boat-shaped vessels against a contemporary chilli-red backdrop refreshingly free of Wayang puppets and other folkloristic clichés. Highlights include aromatic babi ketjap (a soy-based pork stew), meltingly tender goat satay and spekkoek (layered spiced cake).

www.restaurantblauw.nl

BEST INNOVATOR In addition to some of the city’s best rijsttafels (the chef is ex-Blauw), Ron Gastrobar Indonesia offers creative interpretations of the Indonesian kitchen, such as wonton wrapper tacos with Balinese chicken and coconutgalangal mayo and spekkoek-f lavoured crème brulée. We love the sambal bar, darkly stylish decor and Amstel-facing terrace, too. rongastrobarindonesia.nl

Restaurant Blauw

DUTCH FINE DINING BEST FOR VEG LOVERS With its own vegetable patch, it’s no surprise Michelin-starred Bolenius places locally-grown vegetables on a pedestal, but there’s also plenty for omnivores at this ‘flagship of the Dutch Cuisine movement’. Signature dish: clay-baked beetroot with morels and crunchy sourdough croutons. bolenius-restaurant.nl

BEST NEWCOMER Restaurant Floreyn offers Dutch flavours ‘restyled for today’s gourmet’ in a polder green decor with subtle local references. Signature dish: red gurnard with crab poffertjes, sea lavender and mint antiboise. restaurantfloreyn.nl

BEST NEWCOMER Like the Dutch Masters that line the walls of the adjacent museum, Michelin-starred RIJKS® tells the Netherlands’ (food) tale by combining local and foreign influences and turning them into (edible) art. Signature dish: steamed scallops with oyster cream, green strawberries and vermouth vinaigrette. rijksrestaurant.nl

Bolenius

Things I Like Things I Love

PART I UP CLOSE

best of amsterdam

Broek in Waterland

Marie Stella Maris

Riekermolen

ON YOUR BIKE

PRODUCT JUNKIE PARADISE

Yes, you can trample along the Rokin and Red Light along with all the other tourists, or you can explore Amsterdam by bike:

BEST PREMIUM PRODUCTS

BEST LOCAL LABEL

If it’s high-end and hard-to-find, white-walled cosmetics sanctuary Skins Cosmetics has your fix, from By Kilian’s latest scent to Eve Lom’s cult Kiss Mix Lippy to EX NIHILO’s smelly candles. Service is a selling point: well-trained staff are happy to stand back and let you browse, but always at the ready with on-thebutton advice and generous with deluxe samples. skins.nl

Marie-Stella-Maris combines movie star looks (think black and white bottles against a cinema lightbox wall) with a watertight cause: part of the profits go towards clean drinking water projects worldwide. There are bottled mineral waters and a range of natural care products and home fragrances with unisex scents such as geranium & black pepper and white tea, bergamot & lemon. marie-stella-maris.com

‘We all have feeds full of pretty pics by prettier bloggers who paint a scene that rarely lives up to its promise in real life.’

MOST PICTURESQUE Head north of the IJ to the medieval Nieuwendammerdijk with its pretty dyke houses and historic locks, and along a 13th-century dyke to the harbour village of Durgerdam and authentic Dutch farmlands beyond (see our Neighbourhood Watch feature about Noord-Oost on page 34 for more detail). BEST FOR BEGINNERS Follow the scenic west bank of the Amstel river, past historic mansions, bucolic landscapes and Rembrandt’s famous Riekermolen windmill to the sleepy village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. Stop off for lunch before heading back along the other side of the river. OFF THE BEATEN PATH Go west to Amsterdam’s greenest and most diverse neighbourhood, where you’ll find 180 nationalities, but also an eclectic mix of modern architecture and traditional windmills. The route passes through the 1000-year-old village of Sloten to the Nieuwe Meer lake. For detailed cycling maps and videos, see iamsterdam.com

15 VINTAGE VALHALLA

Laura Dolls

BEST BUYS

For affordable vintage in a tightly edited boutique setting that’s refreshingly whiff-free, Wini Vintage is your best bet, whether you’re looking for geometric print 60s bathers, 70s spencers, camouflage dungarees or tiered tulle skirts. winivintage.nl

MOST GLAM

At legendary 50s specialist Laura Dols it’s easy to achieve the holy trifecta of party dress shopping, with many unique, classic and affordable finds, and beaded evening bags, prom dresses and antique wedding dresses, too. lauradols.nl

BEST BEANS BEST IN CLASS An L12 Probat coffee roaster takes centre stage at Lot Sixty One Coffee Roasters, a tiny coffee bar where the freshest and finest green beans are roasted daily, after which they’re pulled on a state-of-the-art Kees Van der Westen 3-group Spirit espresso machine using naked portafilters. The interior is attractive but basic, so grab your gourmet coffee on the run. lotsixtyone.myshopify.com

WHERE TO LINGER Set in a strikingly renovated former cinema with soaring ceilings, hanging tables and bean bags, CT coffee & coconuts in de Pijp feels very beach-house, but is a great place to hang out and enjoy double shot espressobased drinks made with White Label Coffee beans and Friedhats Coffee soft brews. And, yes, some drinks are served in coconuts. coffeeandcoconuts.com

LIT LATTE ART For consumable art expressed through the medium of milk and espresso, look no further than Trakteren in West, where your cappuccino may come crowned with a lion head, koala bear, swan or rabbit. What’s more, it’s made with (single origin) beans from Dutch Barista Roasters coffee by people passionate about their craft. trakterenkoffie.nl

Fashion treasures like a rare vintage Chanel 2.55 and white leather Hermès Kelly Bag are safely ensconced in glass cases throughout L’Etoile de Saint Honoré’s stores, with prices in full view, so there’s none of that awkward asking. etoile-luxuryvintage.com

Wini Vintage

SAY CHEESE Pics or it didn’t happen, right? Strike a pose at Amsterdam’s ultimate selfie spots:

BEST FACE FORWARD

FOR ROMANTICS With its white wood, twinkly lights and river views, the Magere Brug is Amsterdam’s most famous drawbridge. #when: at dusk when the lights come on. FOR THE FONT FOND Photographed over 8,000 times a day, our 3D I amsterdam city slogan has become the physical icon of Amsterdam. One set stands behind the Rijksmuseum, at 2 metres tall and 23.5 metres wide. A second one can be found at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport and the third, a travelling set, will be at RAI until 22 September, at the Olympic Stadium until 16 October, then at the EYE Film Museum until November. FOR ARCHETYPAL CANAL VIEWS You’ll find the so-called Seven Bridges where the Reguliersgracht crosses the Herengracht. #bestangle: from the water, on a boat.

CT coffee & coconuts

BEST HIGH-END SELECTION

BEST LUNCHTIME TREAT For Instagram-worthy hands that are ready for their close-up, head to Soap Treatment Store, where basic 25-minute manicures start from €26.50 and the ultimate 45-minute hand treatment, which includes filing, buffing, cuticle treatment, exfoliating scrub and a massage costs €42.00. soaptreatmentstore.com BEST FOUNTAIN-OF-YOUTH FACIAL The new 90-minute Orchidée Impériale Skin Light Treatment (€230) at Waldorf Astoria’s Guerlain Spa blends the French beauty house’s renowned massage technique with modern methods including a fruit acid peel, microdermabrasion and a warming sheet mask massaged in with glass ‘ice bubble’ rollers to give you a glow that’ll last for days. waldorfastoria.com/amsterdam

PART I UP CLOSE

best of amsterdam

BEST COCKTAIL BAR As the pendulum swings from pioneering password-protected prohibition erastyle speakeasies (yes, Door 74, we’re talking about you) to plush hotel bars, we have nothing but high praise for Pulitzer’s Bar. With iconic canal views, cosy fireplace nooks and a striking art deco bar, it combines a classic countenance with an easy, unaffected manner and world-class cocktails, from a tantalising turmeric-infused gimlet to the moreish Moneypenny with gin, chai, lychee and lime. pulitzeramsterdam.com

THE TYPE SET CHEESIEST SIGHT

The Amsterdam Cheese Museum is not, in fact, an official museum, and while most Dutch people are unlikely to purchase the kind of brightly coloured kaas this cheese shop purveys, there is something to be said for the enthusiasm with which artefacts such as the ‘world’s most expensive cheese slicer’ are displayed. cheesemuseumamsterdam.com

MOST BOOKISHLY HANDSOME Colourful tomes brighten up an inky womb of leather-clad walls and matte bookcases made entirely of black books at Mendo, a playground for the stylish and, often, equally black-clad crowd, who seek the world’s best books on design, fashion, architecture, art, music and photography, including Marcel Wanders’ 35 kg (!) limited edition art book RIJKS (yours for only €6,500) and Mendo’s own photobook Living in Style Amsterdam.

pology are self-published, while others, such as Decommunized: Ukrainian Soviet Mosaics, and Monkey Bingo and Other Primates are imported. architectura.nl

BEST FOR ENGLISH BOOKS Home to a famous Friday market for used and antiquarian books, leafy Het Spui square also boasts a bevy of international

mendo.nl

Atheneum News Centre

Mendo

BEST SPECIALIST BOOKSTORE The clue’s in the name: the impressively stocked bilingual bookstore Architectura & Natura focuses on architectural history, urban design, botanical life, animal studies – and Amsterdam. Some titles, like The Amsterdam School and Landsca-

bookstores, including British chain Waterstones with its unbeatable children’s book section and The American Book Center, purportedly the largest English-language bricks-and-mortar store on the European continent. Athenaeum News Centre next door offers Amsterdam’s best selection of international newspapers, magazines and periodicals. waterstones.com abc.nl athenaeum.nl

17 Get off the Kalverstraat's beaten path and explore these other shopping streets, brimming with quaint, authentic, trendy boutiques. BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREETS HIPPEST HIDEAWAY

The Walrus & the Carpenter

Seafood Bar

Pulitzer's Bar

In addition to the clutch of cool concept stores you’ll find on Gerard Doustraat , which range from kid-centric and Scandi-chic to eclectic, there are trendy streetwear boutiques with eco-fashion, jeans and sneakers, as well as a Spanish deli, macaron shop and cookbook specialist.

OYSTER BONANZA

Pacomer Traiteur

MOST VARIED

BEST BUYS Slurp up at The Walrus & The Carpenter during Oyster Happy Hour with €1 oysters paired with local craft beers in a casual setting (Saturday-Sunday from 17:00-18:00). And at Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam’s elegant Foodbar, there’s a free oyster hour (18:00-19:00) every first Friday of the month. thewalrus.nl sofitel-legend-thegrand.com/amsterdam

Czaar Peterstraat

FOR FOODIES

BEST VARIETY The Seafood Bar always has at least six varieties of oyster on offer, which currently includes Pearls of Ireland no. 3, Boudeuse no. 4, Fines de Normandie no. 3, Umami no. 3, Tsarkaya no. 3 and Gillardeau no. 3 (from €14.50 for 6 pcs). theseafoodbar.com

Utrechtsestraat  offers the proverbial butcher, baker and candlestick maker and more, from boho boutiques to ‘fair wear’ fashion, quirky gifts, ethnic chic and designer decor, a kitchenware store, several jewellers, a vinyl specialist and a marble apothecary-style coffee shop where staff wear bow ties.

Voted ‘Best Shopping Street in the Netherlands 2015’ by Dutch shoppers nationwide, Czaar Peterstraat has a high concentration of gourmet shops, with specialists in French cheese, Ethiopian coffee, Italian wines, craft beers, niche whiskies, oil and vinegar, single origin chocolate bars and even peanut butter.

MOST LIKE THE 9 STREETS If Hazenstraat is  the 10th street of the Nine Streets, we proclaim near-by Heren- and Prinsenstraat the 11th and 12th streets. In fact, with their wide-ranging offering of beauty, home decor, food, premium fashion for the whole family and endless art galleries, these three streets remind us of the area in its heyday, before the chains moved in.

Thirty enormous

amsterdammusea.org

International talents

20 talented international photographers come together during this exhibition to broadcast social-political issues in the world. Foam, till November 12th 2017

Jana Euler, Analysemonster, 2014, courtesy: Jana Euler and Cabinet, London

MUSEUM TIPS

Vogue Italia, 2015, from the series Pieces of Me ÂŠ Louise Parker

17th century group portraits

High in Amsterdam with Jana Euler

Karel Egger ÂŠ Memorial

Solo artworks are presented of this young artist from her latest expressive work. The culture and identity of the modern world is represented.

Abstract art creatures

Twelve eccentric sculptures of the French artist Jean Dubuffet represent the human being in between culture and nature. Gardens of Rijksmuseum, till October 1st 2017

museumtips halve pagina a-mag Sept.indd 1

Stedelijk Museum, till October 15th 2017

The secrets of the Goelagcamps

Discover the shocking stories of 18 million prisoners that were captivated in the camps. Among them many Dutch people. Verzetsmuseum, till November 12th 2017

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

15-08-17 10:43

sep & oct 2017

PART II 20 22 24 27 29 30 31

ART FESTIVALS THE CURIOUS INCIDENT THE BEST OF STAGE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS COLUMN FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS

AMSTERDAM SPOOK

‘AMSTERDAM FEELS LIKE A LITTLE TOWN – BUT AT THE SAME TIME, THE AMOUNT OF THINGS IT HAS TO OFFER IS HUGE.’ Diletta De Luca of Gassan Diamonds on why Amsterdam’s size doesn’t matter

AMSTERDAM COMIC CON Fans of superhero films, comics, cosplay, gaming, anime and sci-fi convene at RAI Amsterdam to celebrate all that's colourful, cool, geeky, wild, weird and wonderful. With a comic zone, a shopping centre, a Cosplay Universe, and plenty of opportunities for autographs from international guests straight out of Hollywood or the comics universe, nerds of the world (or, of the Netherlands) - unite! 2-3 SEPTEMBER RAI Amsterdam amsterdamcomiccon.com

Amsterdam Spook has been providing partygoers in Amsterdam with its Halloween fix since 2000. Morbidly hanging on to the belief that the event should last longer than just one day, this year's festival is happening from 27 to 31 October 2017. With a list of events longer than Jason’s hit list, you’re in for a grizzly feast. This year you’re invited to shake them bones at not one but two costume parties, with a theme that’s anything but child’s play: Toyland. If you’re having trouble coming up with a frightful costume, Amsterdam Spook and its Drop Dead Gory makeup workshops will help you transform into the stuff of nightmares. If you prefer (or dare), you can brave an all-night horror movie marathon (Mr. Horror's Halloween Horror show), and there's even a kids' party at the Hard Rock Café for the little demons. 27-31 OCTOBER Various locations halloweenamsterdam.com

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

art festivals

Amsterdam the creative launch pad Unseen and NEU NOW, September’s brilliant art festivals, show how much Amsterdam shines on the map of powerful platforms for emerging artists.

NEU NOW 14-17 September Westergasfabriek neunow.eu Get your fill of contemporary art with the exhibitions at the Gallery, the performances on the Stage and the screenings at the Ketelhuis – and of course, the outdoors shows and installations.

In recent years, Amsterdam’s devotion to young and independent creators has morphed from welcoming to mighty. Now the prime location of large-scale events backed by eminent institutions, the city brings the strength of professional marketing to many emerging artists, lifting them into the spotlight of a wide audience and serious career opportunities. UNSEEN Unseen Amsterdam showcases the crème de la crème of new photographers. From art fairs to festivals, from galleries to portfolio readings, the team travels the

world year-round to uncover the most striking talents. ‘We want to show artists who haven’t been shown yet’, says Emilia van Lynden, Unseen’s artistic director. Premiere works represent 70% of the photographs on show at the Westegasfabriek this year, from 53 galleries in 14 different countries. KABK 12, one of the on-site outdoor exhibitions, showcases the work of 12 promising students in collaboration with renowned duo Broomberg & Chanarin and Raimond Wouda, a sensational opportunity for exposure – and a chance to learn from the best. A new feature of Unseen

in this sixth edition is the CO-OP, which is dedicated to cutting-edge art collectives: a growing trend for the younger generations of artists. ‘With the close help of a curator, we encourage them to become more commercially sustainable. They must learn to present and sell the fantastic art that they create’, explains Van Lynden. Colossal institutions support Unseen’s talent development programmes, such as the ING Unseen Talent Awards, offering an incredible podium for these emerging artists to show (and sell) their creations to a vast international public and plant

UNSEEN AMSTERDAM 22-24 September Westergasfabriek and various locations unseenamsterdam.com In addition to the the Fair, which exhibits selected works from 53 international galleries, Unseen also features the CO-OP, a showcase of artist collectives, the Living Room for debates and lectures, a Book Market, the fun and interactive Photo Pleasure Palace, and the City Programme, chock-full of events and exhibitions throughout the city.

DAISY 1, FROM THE SERIES LAST CHILD IN THE WOODS, 2017

#5, FROM THE SERIES AFTER CATTELAN, 2016

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Highlights

FOAM TALENT

ANNUAL DUTCH ART FAIR

SIDE A/SIDE B

In addition to its vast programme of exhibitions, which range from iconic photographers to contemporary artists, Foam devotes many of its activities to the discovery, stimulation and presentation of new talents. Every year, the museum launches a talent call which is internationally recognised as a platform for young photographers. The innovative works, selected among 1800 artists from 75 different countries are showcased in a travelling exhibition which starts in Amsterdam: the chance to uncover the future big names of the medium (as well as its fascinating developments). FROM 1 SEPTEMBER Foam, Keizersgracht 609 foam.org

the seeds of future career opportunities. NEU NOW Photography is not the only medium taking centre stage this Fall; since 2009, NEU NOW has grown into a consequential springboard for graduating artists in all disciplines. From visual to performing arts, NEU NOW leaves no creative stone unturned. This ninth edition, also at the Westergasfabriek, will present the works of 44 young artists from 16 countries, with the goal of bridging the gap between academia and the industry. ‘Our number one priority is to offer them exposure to

industry professionals in the position to create future career and creative opportunities; but also to bring artists from many different origins and disciplines together,’ says Project Manager Jessica Maxwell, who adds that it’s very rewarding to see some of these young talents collaborate after meeting at NEU NOW. Originally a travelling festival, the event (which falls under the umbrella of ELIA, the European League of Institutes of the Arts) will reside in Amsterdam for a few years. ‘After 2015, we decided to stay in Amsterdam, because it offers

©ANKE SCHWARZER

ENIS TURAN, BEAUTY AND THE BEAST, 2015.

ANNUAL DUTCH ART FAIR

such great funding and organisational opportunities,’ says Maxwell. To her, it’s no wonder the city has a stellar reputation as a platform for emerging artists: ‘Thanks to the great English proficiency of the Dutch and the geography of the city, Amsterdam has the accessibility and atmosphere of a village with the international character, diversity and amenities of a world-class metropolis. It nurtures its cultural cachet with its renowned institutions, a vibrant festival scene, and a cross-pollination of creative practices. All the ingredients are there.’

Spread out over 3,500 m2, the seventh edition of the Annual Dutch Art Fair will showcase 1,700 pieces of art by approximately 200 professional artists from the Netherlands and abroad. The ADAF is the largest, most beautiful and most important Dutch Art Fair, where artists themselves exhibit and sell their work. These include objects in bronze, stone, ceramics and glass, and of course paintings, drawings, graphics, textile design, photography, jewelry and conceptual art. The ADAD ends with the Talent Awards on Sunday night. 13-15 OCTOBER World Fashion Centre, Beursplaza adaf.nl

SIDE A/SIDE B The Nederlands Dans Theater is renowned for being one of the ‘seven wonders in the world of contemporary dance’ (Le Figaro). They open the new season with a double-bill. Side A: Split Into One treats us to three world premieres by hot, up-and-coming choreographers Edward Clug and Medhi Walerski, and by acclaimed dance masters Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. Side B: Adrift features The missing door by Gabriela Carrizo, and The lost room by Franck Chartier, two performances which put the dancers’ physical powers to the test. NDT1 welcomes five new international dancers this season, promising both its signature stunning choreography, and a fresh crop of fabulous new talent. Side A: 28 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER Side B: 18-19 OCTOBER Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam ndt.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

the curious incident

A dogged success Amsterdam welcomes the award-winning stage adaptation of ‘The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time’. text Mark Smith

hey say every dog has its day. In British writer Mark Haddon’s 2003 novel The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time, a 15 year-old boy named Christopher Boone discovers his neighbour’s poodle, Wellington, impaled on the lawn with a pitchfork just after midnight. For Christopher, an avid Sherlock Holmes fan who has an extraordinary brain but has never ventured further than the end of his own road in suburban Swindon, the harrowing event triggers a journey to the heart of London to discover the truth about Wellington’s demise. On the way, Christopher unlocks some home truths about the circumstances of his own life. Despite the runaway success of the book, which won literary awards here in the Netherlands as well as two Whitbread Book Awards, the Commonwealth Writers’ Prize for Best First Book and the Guardian Children’s Fiction Prize, its author thought that his tale – told entirely from the perspec-

tive of Christopher, a maths genius who has trouble interpreting everyday life – was destined to stay on the page forever. ‘I was absolutely convinced that my novel was unfilmable and unstageable,’ Haddon has said. It was playwright Simon Stephens and director Marianne Elliott who, by Haddon’s own admission, proved him ‘completely and utterly wrong,’ when they turned The Curious Incident into a critically acclaimed show at the National Theatre in London. The production, which opened in 2012, used an immersive soundscape and innovative effects described by lighting director Paule Constable as ‘LEDs and lightboxes plus projection and other madness,’ to represent the unconventional goings-on inside Christopher’s head. Sell-out success led to a West End transfer, where the production made headlines not only for its record-breaking haul of seven Olivier Awards, but for an upsetting incident when plasterwork from the ceiling at

the Apollo Theatre started to fall, injuring almost 80 people. The production was re-housed, and ran until earlier this year. In New York, Curious Incident became the longest-running play on Broadway in over a decade and scooped five Tony Awards. Now, the theatrical sensation comes to our city’s Royal Theatre Carré, with actor Joshua Jenkins reprising the role of Christopher. Of the transfer, director Marianne Elliott says, ‘I look forward to sharing our staging of Mark Haddon’s beautiful story of love, family and bravery in the most unlikely of environments.’ Indeed, the Carré’s red velvet auditorium began life as a 19th century horse circus. Now, it will briefly be home to nightly turns from Toby, Christopher’s beloved sidekick – a real-life white rat. Truly, it takes all sorts. 20 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER Royal Theatre Carré, Amstel 115-125 carre.nl

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featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

The Music in the Seven Bridges Quarter festival brings four days of romantic chamber music to the beautiful ‘Seven Bridges’ neighbourhood of Amsterdam’s world-famous Canal District. In 2017 festival performances will be held at six historical locations: the Vondelkerk, Museum Van Loon, the Amsterdam City Archives, the Amstelkerk, the Goethe-Institut, and the hidden church Het Lam. An international cast of musicians perform the intimate concerts, often on authentic instruments, but also participate in discussions and some heartwarming storytelling.

ASTRIT ISMAILI Born: 1991 in Prishtina, Kosovo Talent: A performance artist whose talents resist categorisation, Astrit was a resident at ISCP in New York City and the recipient of the Young Visual Artist Award 2011 before coming to Amsterdam in 2014 for his Masters of Theatre at DAS Theatre. Since then his work has garnered many awards, and he’s performed all over Europe, including Berlin, Zurich and Vienna. He will be appearing during the NEU NOW festival for a new performance of his latest show, UNIKAT, which mixes images, light and music. ‘I am trying to extract the vulnerability of the human voice,’ says Astrit, who adds that creating his pieces takes many months. ‘Performing is beautiful; it’s that one moment you are really into the present, but the process to get to that moment is a long spiritual journey, where you take your own life experiences and open them up to fiction. It’s fraught with epiphanies, a little bit like therapy.’ The gender-fluid artist, whose work speaks heavily of the politics of conformity and the difficulty for authenticity to thrive in today’s world, is busy writing a new play. In parallel, he is preparing for NEU NOW, which will be a very special performance for him as he will finally be reunited with his sister Blerta, who is coming from Kosovo especially for the festival. The pair were born into a musical family and used to sing together as children. It’s been a long-held dream to be on stage together again.

In spite of turbulent political times marked by nationalism, two world wars, and the early years of the Communist regime, Hungary became a hub for innovative art during the first half of the 20th century. Artists experimented with French fauvism and cubism, Italian futurism, German expressionism, and Soviet constructivism, giving birth to a generation of talented Jewish painters. Featuring many pieces never before seen in the Netherlands, this very rare exhibition showcases 80 artworks, including Béla Kádár’s cubist landscapes reminiscent of Chagall, and futuristic nightlife paintings by Armand Schönberger.

CINEKID

16 SEPTEMBER Unikat at NEU NOW 2017 Westergasfabriek neunow.eu

FROM FAUVISM TO SURREALISM

This ginormous festival dedicated to kids’ entertainment has been growing exponentially for 30 years, and is now an international reference in quality programming for children. While its aim is to promote the production of stimulating and educative media, Cinekid does not leave the fun at the door. With more than 100 special film and TV programmes, they don’t plop kids down on a couch and wait for them to go glassyeyed in front of the screen. Interaction and participation are vitally important to the festival's MediaLab, the largest interactive playground in the world: 1200m2 with the latest games, apps, innovative tools and 3D systems, all created especially for Cinekid.

1-8 OCTOBER Various locations zevenbruggenfestival.nl

©JAN VERSWEYVELD

‘Performing is beautiful.’

MUSIC IN THE SEVEN BRIDGES

UNTIL 24 SEPTEMBER Jewish Historical Museum jck.nl

21 - 27 OCTOBER Westergasfabriek cinekid.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

the best of stage

In the limelight With a myriad of theatre, dance and musical performances taking place around Amsterdam this autumn, all the city’s truly a stage.

text Tracy Brown

ynonymous with the arts and freedom of expression, Amsterdam is host to a range of festivals celebrating theatre, dance, spoken word and music in venues across the city – including in the open air and on its streets. Don’t speak Dutch? No worries. Many events are performed in English, are language-neutral or English subtitled. GO DUTCH The National Dutch Theatre Festival features some of the best-known theatrical talent of the moment, for Dutch and non-Dutch speaking audiences alike. The 2017 version runs for 11 days in five theatres, highlighting the latest

developments in contemporary performing arts and, according to its website, ‘taking the lead in the debate on the role the theatre plays in our society, and blurring the boundaries between the different stage disciplines.’ The programme is a menu of diverse events and will surely offer something for everyone. This year, for example, includes ‘A Love Supreme’ – a dance performance based on John Coltrane’s masterpiece by Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker – and ‘Coco Chanel’, a theatrical examination of the fashion icon and role of fashion in society by the Ulrike Quade Company and Norway's Jo Strømgren Kompani.

ON THE FRINGE Running alongside the Natioal Dutch Theatre Festival is Amsterdam’s Fringe Festival, a presentation of uncurated performances. As with other Fringe Festivals that take place around the world – beginning in 1947 with Edinburg’s – the events showcase the work of lesser-established artists. ‘It’s raw, it’s fringy,’ says Aukje Verhoog, the festival’s director. ‘That’s what makes it so unique: young artists from all over the world performing theatrical experiments from dance to theatre, from spoken word to cabaret.’ The venues are also unique, ranging from a boat to an escape room. On offer this year are events ranging from a silent-disco

don’t miss these AMF

INTO THE WOODS Fancy enjoying your cultural experience in the outdoors? Each summer and into September, Amsterdam’s Vondelpark hosts the Openlucht Theatre (Open Air Theatre). Catch the last of this season’s concerts, dance performances, children’s events and standup comedy by Dutch artists, both up-and-coming and established; or even large events such as the Summer Latin Breeze Festival. Performances are free, although small donations are welcome. In the center of Amsterdam’s forest is the Amsterdamse Bostheater, an outdoor stage for concerts, theatre and performances for children that run from summer through mid-September. Although theatre events tend to be in Dutch, musical performances are plentiful: even international sensation Matisyahu is gracing their stage on 10 September. What better location for a concert than out in the open woods?

FRINGE FESTIVAL 7-17 September amsterdamfringefestival.nl NATIONAL DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL 7-17 September tf.nl VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE until mid-September openluchttheater.nl AMSTERDAMSE BOSTHEATER until mid-September bostheater.nl

FASHION CITIES AFRICA While fashion is a hot ticket in Africa, there isn’t one specific trend that unifies the continent. From streetwear to couture, from the experimental to the more conventional, each city where design is flourishing has its own mark to put on the world of fashion. In Casablanca, Nairobi, Lagos, Johannesburg, what people wear goes back to historical roots and identity, expressed in individual regional creativity. Through the eyes of fashion experts from these four cities, discover the diversity of the fashion scenes that shake up Africa’s style, with beautiful trendy items, personal accounts, blogs, photographs and films.

THE GULAG In remote areas of the Soviet Union, millions of people were imprisoned in forced labour camps, often for decades. At least 18 million people were imprisoned in these Gulags, (an acronym that stands for ‘Main Administration of Corrective Labour Camps’), including thousands of Dutch citizens. Most were SS soldiers who had fought for the Germans; some were idealistic communists who helped build the Soviet Union and later fell into disgrace. The exhibition shows how the system worked, how the West perceived it, and Russia's current view on it. Russia experts Jelle Brandt Corstius, Alexander Münninghoff and Nanci Adler from NIOD assisted in putting together this fascinating exhibition.

21 OCTOBER amf-festival.com

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city-walking tour by Australian Guru Dudu (promising spontaneous flashmobs and hilarious commentary in English) to a darkly humorous, oneman show about a cannibalistic dinner date by Dutch actor Niels Horeman.

While ADE paints the town red, its partner in crime AMF takes over the city’s most colossal venue, Amsterdam ArenA, for a whooping night of music spun by worldrenowned DJs and mesmerizing productions – the sets, installations and lighting alone are worth the detour. The ArenA is hosting such iconic names as David Guetta, Marshmello and Don Diablo – and two surprise special guests who will combine their legendary skills for AMF’s fifth anniversary.

FROM 6 OCTOBER Tropenmuseum tropenmuseum.nl

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UNTIL 12 NOVEMBER Resistance Museum, Plantage Kerklaan 61 verzetsmuseum.org

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Mata Hari Magnificent Dutch ballet returns text Mark Smith FERDINAND BOL – SELF-PORTRAIT – 1647

Flinck and Bol The forgotten masters text Lauren Comiteau

‘They have been in Rembrandt’s very long shadow,’ says Tom van der Molen, one of the curators of the BolFlinck exhibition, on why it’s taken so long. ‘But they were amazing painters and, in their time, they were the absolute top-star artists.’ Both painters were students of Rembrandt, having arrived in Amsterdam a year apart in the early 17th century to study under the Dutch master. Their 20-year long apprenticeship at his home, including their many etchings, will be the focus of the exhibition at the Rembrandt House Museum, one of four locations participating in the retrospective. The Amsterdam Museum will highlight the period after

the artists broke away from Rembrandt, when their new, more classicist style made them two of the Golden Age’s most sought-after painters. They were so successful – even more so than their teacher back in the day – that Ferdinand Bol eventually quit painting and became the first tenant of the majestic Van Loon house. Fittingly, what is now the Museum Van Loon will showcase Bol’s extensive collection of works by his contemporaries, including Rubens, Van Ruisdael and, yes, Rembrandt.

It was following an unhappy marriage to a colonial army captain in Dutch East India that Margaretha Geertruida Zelle moved to Paris in search of what Brandsen calls ‘a bigger, fuller, more glamorous’ life. As Mata Hari (the name is Malay for ‘the sun’ or, literally ‘eye of the day’), a Javanese princess persona, she quickly became one of the most famous dancers on the planet. ‘There was a Lady Gaga-like quality to her, too,’ says Brandsen.

Clearly, dance was the logical medium for bringing Mata Hari’s story to the stage. Casting was critical: ‘You have to have the right lead, otherwise there’s just no point,’ says Brandsen. ‘One of our star ballerinas, Anna Tsygankova is fearless and powerful. She’s also a woman who, when she comes into a room, every man looks at her.’ Mata Hari’s strength in that department took her all over Europe, of course, but for acclaimed composer Tarik O’Regan, it was Zelle’s relationship with ‘the exotic’ that captivated. He says, ‘Colonialism created a schism whereby people were trying to maintain aspects of a life thousands of miles away whilst having a glamorous adventure. If you look at Mata Hari’s vision of her time in Indonesia, it’s as filtered and flattering as any Instagram image.’ 14 OCT-3 NOV Dutch National Ballet operaballet.nl

Some of the paintings in the exhibition are returning to the Dutch capital for the first time since the 17th century. But one local staple, which marked the pinnacle of the artists’ careers, was their commission for what was then the city’s new town hall and which today is the Royal Palace at Dam Square; two giant mantle pieces will be on display. Considering Bol’s and Flinck’s parallel lives, ‘it’s about time,’ says Van der Molen, that their work finally intersects. FROM 13 OCTOBER Various locations amsterdammuseum.nl

hile Govert Flinckstraat (Govert Flinck Street) and Ferdinand Bolstraat intersect in the artist-themed streets of de Pijp, the work of these two Dutch masters has surprisingly never before come together in a comprehensive retrospective such as the one the Amsterdam Museum is organising this October.

ed Brandsen, director and choreographer at the Dutch National Ballet compares the life of infamous courtesan and spy Mata Hari to that of her contemporary, Coco Chanel: ‘These are both women who had the talent and tenacity to carve their own way at a time when it was absolutely not possible for most women to do so,’ he says. Both had colourful love lives that made them ideal candidates for espionage, and blurred the lines between romance and prostitution.

THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

After 22 years working at Gassan Diamonds, Italian-born Diletta De Luca (45), still finds Amsterdam a very romantic place. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘You feel like you will get the chance to do what you want’ 1. WHEN DID YOU FIRST COME TO AMSTERDAM? I always wanted to travel, and the Netherlands was definitely on my map; I had this image of a beautiful country, with its unique countryside and its windmills, and of course its museums. So I came here for my birthday in 1994, with plans to stay for a couple of months. I got a job as an international guide at Gassan Diamonds, which I thought would be fun for a season. But then it was so much fun that I stayed! 2. WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE CITY? Coming from Milan, a big city, Amsterdam felt like a little town – but at the same time, the amount of things it has to offer is huge. The most beautiful museums are here. The spirit is very international, and people are friendly, even when you don’t speak Dutch, so you feel welcome. There’s a neighbourliness that I

didn’t experience when I lived in Paris or Italy. So Amsterdam felt like home right away. 3. HOW DO YOU FEEL GASSAN FITS IN AMSTERDAM’S CULTURE? It shares that international spirit: of the 500+ employees, many are from foreign countries, such as China or Russia. We’re very different people from all over the world, and yet because Gassan is a family business, we all feel connected and close, and it’s one of the reasons why employees stay for many years. After 22 years, I am still happy on my way to work every morning. 4. IN WHAT WAY IS THE WORK ENVIRONMENT DIFFERENT HERE? As in most Northern European countries, the conditions are much better. Things are so much better arranged here, such as health insurance. Everybody is treated the same way, and it’s

very important for the social fabric. And there is a forward energy, you feel like you will get the chance to do what you want. My sister just moved here last year, and she found a job within a month. 5. DOES THIS TRANSLATE INTO EVERY DAY LIFE? Definitely; you can feel the open-mindedness. I never feel like I am a stranger, even if they make fun of my Dutch sometimes! People have a good life here. 6. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF AMSTERDAM? I love strolling around the Nine Streets; it’s my favourite part of the city, with its little boutiques. Haarlemmerstraat and the Jordaan, too, especially when I go to the organic market on Noordermarkt on Saturday mornings – I have a little tradition to get coffee and apple pie at Winkel 43. I also have a real fondness for the Skin-

ny Bridge; I stop there every day with my kids and take photos, and that magical feeling is still there, after all these years. 7. WHAT IS YOUR LEAST FAVOURITE PART? I am Southern European, and I am probably a bit louder and more spontaneous than people here who like to organise everything way in advance. So… I wish it was easier to make plans spur-of-the-moment. 8. DO YOU HAVE AN AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT TO RECOMMEND? What I love about Amsterdam is that there are so many kinds of places to eat; you’ll find anything here. But not long ago I discovered Risto Enoteca PepeNero, an Italian restaurant in Oost, that has the most amazing Italian food I’ve ever had. When they served the antipasti, memories from my childhood flooded back – that’s definitely a good sign.

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

ADE

Our Top 5 ADE picks As ADE thumps its way back into town from 18 to 22 October, find out which DJs are worth the detour. text Christiaan de Wit

Boaz van de Beatz

A GUY CALLED GERALD Ever consumed a take-away pizza slice in London? Chances are you got it from Voodoo Ray’s, a restaurant chain named after A Guy Called Gerald’s biggest hit from 1988, as well as the biggest-ever acid-house track to come out of the UK. The DJ was also a member of Britain’s first (and best?) rave group, 808 State – with whom he produced the Top 10 hit ‘Pacific State’. Simpson’s output sounds completely different once again; the freshness of his beats on the jungle-heavy album Black Secret Technology continues to blow people’s minds today. HELENA HAUFF Helena Hauff started her career in a tiny squat-like club in Hamburg called Golden Pudel, which suggests her famous deep, dark and distorted beats don’t come out of nowhere. Hauff ’s music has more in common with the analog, socalled ‘West Coast sound of Holland’, than with the druggy, uplifting music

many fellow Germans are known for. She is one of the most interesting names of the current techno scene. Expect dark and sinister (yet fun!) sets. JACKMASTER Glasgow-born Jack Revill, better known as Jackmaster, started out as a graffiti-spraying party kid, until local record store Rubadub offered him a job. When asked about his musical preferences, Jack just said ‘house’; Rubadub was where he really started developing his musical taste. With such a late blooming start, it is remarkable he’s made it to number two on Resident Advisor’s list of Top 1000 DJs. ACTRESS Admittedly, it is a bit of a hipster thing to suggest you’re female while you’re a bloke. But don’t dismiss the man for a bit of window-dressing: Darren J. Cunningham first entered the scene

Helena Hauff

nearly ten years ago, and has since released a wonderful, otherworldly range of electronic music. From fast, Detroit-style techno to vintage futuristic house through washed out ambient-drone, Cunningham is good at everything he does. BOAZ VAN DE BEATZ Just as celebrities use ghost writers, pop and dance music have people hiding in the shadows secretly responsible for the catchiest hooks in the hits you know best. From his Hoofddorp studio, Boaz van de Beatz has produced for people like Sean Paul, Diplo & Major Lazer, Ariana Grande, Madonna and David Guetta. His DJ sets are banging. ADE October 18-22 Check ADE's programming on their website for these DJs performances, and many more: amsterdam-dance-event.nl

When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

AT YOUR SERVICE

O Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

n the world stage, the Netherlands always ranks high in the happiness indices, where such grand factors as good governance and freedom are taken into account. But sometimes, it’s the little things that make life that much easier and Amsterdam arguably the most liveable city the world. Here is my current list of the best of Amsterdam. I recently trudged down to city hall to renew my daughters’ Dutch passports. Not only did the long lines I was expecting not materialize – the fairly recent redesign of the city’s services section is a marvel of friendly efficiency – but I was asked if I wanted to take advantage of the city’s free passport delivery service. Come again? That’s right, the city will messenger you your passports for free, even rendering the old ones obsolete at your door before handing them back, usually within a couple of days. Now that’s service. The Dutch tax office is forbidden from speaking in any other language than Dutch for liability purposes, but they will connect you to an English-speaker at the Belastingdienst Buitenland, (or international tax office), if you ask. Or call direct, especially from abroad, to have all those tricky tax questions that may be out of your Dutch-speaking league answered: +31 (0) 55 538 5385. Copy this number and paste it in a safe place. Trust me.

When my sister in the States recently had a very large rodent take up residence in her living room, she had to call the police. Here in the Netherlands, we have the Dierenambulance, or Animal Ambulance. I have seen these animal EMTs pick up birds too injured to fly, but they take everything sheep-sized and smaller (for the obvious reasons). If a people can be judged by the way they treat their animals—have I mentioned the doggie day ticket for train-bound pooches?—then the Dutch once again get top marks. Ferries from Central Station to the North are free. All day. And all night. After being a victim of Internet fraud, I got an unexpected phone call from Slachtofferhulp Nederland, or Victims Support Netherlands. After the police had passed on the details of my sorry case (let’s just say don’t transfer money for concert tickets into a bank account until they’re sitting in your hand), the service wanted to see if I was in need of any ‘emotional, technical or legal support.’ I was really just suffering from a costly case of stupidity, but I was wished a ‘safe and healthy future in the Netherlands’ and said legal help would be available if the case ever went to court. And I never even had to ask.

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time.

KLIK 10 Years Never grow up.

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text Bregtje Schudel

17–22 OCTOBER KLIK Amsterdam Animation Festival. EYE klik.amsterdam

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ario van Vree, animation director at Studio Pupil and co-founder of KLIK Amsterdam Animation Festival, never doubted that the event would make it to its tenth year. That it would be this successful this soon, however, never ceases to amaze him. ‘It started really small with virtually no money,’ recalls Van Vree, artistic director for the first five editions, ‘and put together by seven people who shared a love for animation.’ The very first edition, then still called KLIT (derived from the verb ‘to get entangled’, not that specific part of female anatomy), was attended by about 200 visitors. Last year, 14,000 people found their way to the festival. KLIK wasn’t the first animation film festival in the Netherlands, but it definitely filled a void. ‘On the one hand you had children’s animation, often the first thing people think of

when talking about animation; on the other there was (and still is) the Holland Animation Film Festival, that catered to the industry with mostly highbrow, non-narrative, and abstract animation. But there’s so much more in between!’ The programmers of KLIK found a spirited medium, a communal stomping ground for both professional animators and lovers of animation, no matter the age (there’s a special children’s program on Sunday). The festival aims to show us animation in its broadest sense. ‘Animation is such a versatile medium. It’s more than just film, or television. From apps and games to virtual reality, animation is – literally – everywhere.’ A regular component is their political program. ‘It highlights the ways in which animation can also be very relevant. It’s a great medium to talk about important, heavy subjects in a lighter tone. Last

year we had an entry from Syria. Can you imagine making an animated movie under those circumstances? It may not have been a technical masterpiece, but it worked.’ For this tenth edition, expect five fun-filled days of animation, workshops and presentations, and, of course, a big birthday bash. The main theme is ‘Never grow up’, with animations that question common conceptions about age and life stages. One of the highlights: the screening of Alê Abreu’s Academy Award-nominated masterpiece Boy and the World, about the wonders and struggles of the modern world seen through the eyes of a young boy. Van Vree: ‘I think this year’s theme really captures the essence of KLIK and our hopes for the future. That no matter how big we get, we will never lose our playful and open-hearted side.’

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highlight

nightlife essentials

Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

Open Air: Part II

ant to get rid of your after-summer blues? These two open air film festivals are just what the doctor ordered. The West Beach Open Air Film Festival has been a fixture at Sloterplas for over ten years with a successful mixture of crowd-pleasers and festival darlings. Its 14th edition will kick off with Locke, a surprisingly suspenseful drama about a man (Tom Hardy) making phone calls while driving his car, and will close with the crowd-pleaser among crowd-pleasers: La La Land. Other offerings include Pride, Brimstone and Captain Fantastic. In case of bad weather, screenings will be held in a tent. Entrance is free. For a little more substantial film fare, head off to the highest level of the VU-building (near Amsterdam Zuid station) for the On the Roof Film Festival, which offers you the latest in world cinema (cherry-picked from the World Cinema Amsterdam Film Festival), starting off with the documentary How to Let Go of the World and Love All the Things Climate Can’t Change – which, considering the clear Kubrick reference, is probably as ominous as it sounds. Things won’t get much lighter with screenings of The Wound, an insightful look into male initiation rituals in South Africa, Mawlana (The Preacher), a political thriller about a young Egyptian preacher who becomes an overnight celebrity on television, and Newton, a cynical comedy about an idealistic civil servant left in charge of a remote polling station in the Indian jungle. All screenings come with a fee (students get a substantial discount), but will be accompanied by an introduction and an after-talk. You can also opt for a dinner and movie combo. Here’s to a nice long Indian summer! 14-24 SEPTEMBER West Beach Openlucht Film Festival Bastion Sloterplas (northern side of the lake) facebook.com/west-beach-filmfestival

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5-8 SEPTEMBER On the Roof Film Festival Rooftop of the VU-building, De Boelelaan 1105 vu.nl

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INDIESTADT Indiestadt is the brainchild of Amsterdam's Paradiso, showcasing some of the bands signed up for Hamburg's Reeperbahn Festival. In 2017 the festival is spread across four nights, with some big, diverse names headlining, including Everything Everything, The Crookes, Portugal The Man, and The Black Angels. Do keep in mind that the final night takes place in the garden of the Tolhuistuin, rather than in Paradiso. 20-23 SEPTEMBER Paradiso  paradiso.nl

comers four frightful days of bloody good fun! And don't miss the annual costume party on 28 October. This year’s 'TOYLAND' definitely isn't child's play – you'll never look at your childhood toys the same way again. 27-31 OCTOBER Various locations halloweenamsterdam.com

LONDON CALLING

A favourite of music lovers in Amsterdam, taking place twice per year in Paradiso, London Calling showcases a collection of international bands who're tipped to make it big, along with a few more who're making a comeback: AWAKENINGS ADE pop, rock, electronic and beSPECIAL yond. In this special 25th anniversary edition, look out for Amsterdam's biggest techraw and rootsy American acts no festival goes all-out for like Hurray for the Riff Raff, ADE this year. Whatever Pinegrove and Big Thief, the your techno poison, these five nights (and days) prom- shoegaze pop of Japanese ise thrilling beats and daring Breakfast and the garage indie of Australia's Alex Lahey. sets from the world's top DJs and electronic maestros. 27-28 OCTOBER Look out for the likes of Jeff Paradiso  Mills, Adam Beyer, Paul londoncalling.nl Kalkbrenner, Joris Voorn and Joseph Capriati. LADY GAGA 18-22 OCTOBER This feisty New Yorker was Westergasfabriek  touted as the freshest and awakenings.com most unique thing to hit pop music when she broke AMF AMSTERDAM through back in 2008. Now a cornerstone of AmThrough the varied pop hits sterdam Dance Event, AMF and costume diversions that Amsterdam invites impreshave followed, she's gained sive names from the upper hordes of vehement fans – echelons of the electronic 'Little Monsters' – to back her music world to party in up. And her shows never fail style. Coming at the end of to showcase the funkiest fashthe ADE, international ation and flashiest productions. tendees and delegates will 3 OCTOBER get a chance to let their hair Ziggo Dome  down, if it wasn't already, and celebrate another sucCHRIS ROCK cessful event. Stars include Following in the footsteps of the likes of David Guetta, comedy greats like Richard Don Diablo, Lucas & Steve, Pryor and Eddie Murphy, and many more. Chris Rock made a name for 21 OCTOBER himself as a loud comic unaAmsterdam ArenA  fraid to say anything. It's amf-festival.com been nine years since his last tour, though he's kept himself busy in front of and behind AMSTERDAM the camera ever since. Now HALLOWEEN he's unleashing his 'Total FESTIVAL Blackout Tour' - careful An all-night horror movie though, strictly no photogramarathon, makeup workphy or filming at this show, shops and kids' events for even if it's just your smartthe little horrors: the Amphone. sterdam Halloween Festival 8 OCTOBER offers die-hards and newZiggo Dome 

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sep & oct 2017

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ’I LOVE THE NOORD LANDSCAPE, IT’S SO DIFFERENT FROM THE REST OF THE COUNTRY.’ Cora Brussee is biking around town

34 40 42 44 46

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: NOORD-OOST EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS THE STORY OF IITALA

ROEF AMSTERDAM ROEF is the ultimate rooftop party: hop from roof, to roof, to roof, where you’ll ﬁnd a surprising programme of dreamy shows, musical highlights, refreshing cocktails and hot summer tunes. The festival takes you to the most coveted heights above the city, to enjoy the last balmy evenings of summer at such hotspots as the Volkshotel, the Butcher Social Club and Q Amsterdam - and even NEMO's famous sprawling terrace. SEPTEMBER 8 Various locations roefamsterdam.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

NOORD-OOST

AART VAN ELDIK, 45, radio journalist, with his daughters Sabijn & Roos

‘It’s an historical town which dates back to the 17th century. Most of the houses were renovated in the past 30 years and it makes for spectacular architecture. It’s a beautiful place to visit.’

When you crave a bit of nature, Amsterdam Noord expands into wide swaths of gorgeous countryside that is just begging for a bike ride. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock

Town and country

f, like yours truly, you exited Central Station on the wrong side of the tracks on your first visit, you found yourself facing the vast expanse of the IJ river, with its flurries of sail and tugboats, cruise ships, and ferries; and probably, before heading back towards the city centre, you wondered what lay on the other side. What is this strange white building in the shape of a futuristic frog? Why is the horizon filled with construction cranes? And what about this imposing tower that looks like a spaceship launch pad? That, my navigationally-impaired friends, is Noord: the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, where refurbished warehouses, village-like suburbia and giant swaths of nature cohabitate peacefully. But don’t let the tranquility fool you - Noord is one of the fastest growing neighbourhoods of Amsterdam, thriving not only on its newfound popularity but also its vast green expanses. GROWING, GROWING, GROWN Today the area that lies closest to the centre is flourishing, as can attest the boom not only in cultural and entertainment institutions (EYE Film Museum, Tolhuistuin and A’DAM Tower, to cite only a few),

but also in rapid-fire construction. Noord has become prized real estate; hence the rows of cranes devouring the skyline. The urban sprawl is spreading its tentacles outwards, enough to give you whiplash. Westward, on NDSM Island, you’ll find a plethora of hot spots such as Pllek, IJ-Hallen and Noorderlicht, but also many of the city’s coolest festivals. Head a bit more north inland and you’ll be delighted by trendy boutiques (Pek & Kleren) and exciting dining such as meat-lover paradise Smaaqt or riverside hang-out, green kitchen Café de Ceuvel. And along the banks of the IJ river lie great warehouses refurbished into bright, beautiful cafés that have become staples of Amsterdam’s gastronomy (Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant.) But what happens if you head east? Our advice: rent a bike and spend a day down the Noord-Oost rabbit hole. SADDLE UP Past the Vliegenbos Park, you suddenly feel like you’ve stepped into another dimension. Nieuwendam resembles a little village from a different time, with a beautiful steepled church and uneven, winding cobble streets, bordered by small traditional houses kept in top condition. Their flowered

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

A great breath of fresh air away from the city's bustle, which is much closer than it feels.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; doorways and lovely gardens are sometimes interrupted by a welcoming cafĂŠ, such as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;t Sluijse with its terrace overlooking the water on the Nieuwendammerdijk. The whole neighbourhood is so romantic, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll probably be googling for real estate prices before you hop on the ferry back to Centrum. Once youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve reached the end of Nieuwendammerdijk, all bets are off: youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve left the city behind, and polders, grassland and cows reign. Cycle along Schellingwouderdijk, and soon youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be on the edge of the vast expanse of the Ijmeer, crossing quaint historical villages on the way such as 15th century Durgerdam and Uitdam. One option is to push on to Monnickendam, or even (if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re training for the Tour de France), Marken, that quaint ďŹ shing hamlet with its beautiful harbour and traditional black houses adorned with green shutters.

PLLEK The former industrial shipyard of NDSM has been transformed into one of Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular city beaches by the team behind Pllek, a large restaurant and bar built from reclaimed materials like shipping containers and corrugated iron. With a man-made urban beach that still enjoys some rays well into September (and October on a lucky year), this hotspot stays alive way past the summer months with DJs, campďŹ res, movie nights, and lots of happy faces of all ages soaking up the alternative vibes. The drinks are cool and the food is fresh and delicious, just as enjoyable on their outdoor picnic tables as from the warmer, cozier armchairs behind their giant bay window. TT Neveritaweg 59 pllek.nl

WATERLAND If instead you turn back inland after Uitdam, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll cross more pastures, wooded coves and polders, which are replete with quiet picnic spots; unless you feel like enjoying a luscious pannenkoek at De Witte Swaen in the jewel village of Broek in Waterland. Colourful steepled houses wind down the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cobble streets, cradled by leafy rivers and canals that scream â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;boat rideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an historical town, which dates back to the 17th centuryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, says local Aart van Eldik. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Most of the houses were owned by farmers back in the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, he adds, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;but they were all renovated in the past 30 years and it makes for spectacular architecture. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beautiful place to visit.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fun fact: back in January, right after sunset, local residents saw a large ďŹ reball in the sky â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it was a meteorite, burning through the atmosphere before falling through the roof of a local barn. Scientists say the 500-gram rock proba-

ď ą

EYE FILM MUSEUM This eye-catching feat of origami architecture has, in ďŹ ve short years, already become an Amsterdam icon. Central to the design is the 700m2 terraced bar-restaurant with its wraparound waterside terrace, but EYEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most interesting personality trait, in addition to its four ďŹ lm theatres, quirky gift shop and exhibition space, is deďŹ nitely the energy it deploys in organising a plethora of events relating to the Seventh Art. IJpromenade 1 eyeďŹ lm.nl

DE WITTE SWAEN

In Broek in Waterland, you can rent a boat from two different places. Right on the edge of town, Broeker Bootverhuur is open Wed-Sun until October (or longer if the weather agrees!) with boats for 5 or 12. A couple of kilometres up north, Theetuin Overleek, a charming teahouse with a wide garden and lush high tea menu also offers picnic baskets to bring along on your boating adventure. broekerbootverhuur.nl theetuinoverleek.nl

BOAT RENTALS

In the charming village of Broek in Waterland, this little café’s menu is teeming with a vast selection of sweet and savory pannenkoeken. Their thin pancakes are laden with delicious ingredients, which range from simple bacon and mushrooms to more hearty specialties with meats, herbs, or even nuts – and of course sinful dessert staples such as banana, chocolate and icecream. Dorpstraat 11, Broek in Waterland dewitteswaen.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

STORK With a stunning, south-facing terrace jutting out over the water, this former ship engine factory is now one of Amsterdam’s best seafood restaurants. The ultimate spot to lazily admire the cruise ships and tugboats navigating the IJ river on a sunny day, its mammoth 1,100 m2 interior still manages to feel cosy and intimate, thanks to a warm and inviting marine-themed decor. The menu is a real star, always fresh and bountiful - especially the seafood platter sporting North Sea crab, snow crab, mussels, clams, smoked salmon and mackerel rillettes. Gedempt Hamerkanaal 201 restaurantstork.nl

TOLHUISTUIN Shell’s worker canteen has come a long way since it closed in 2011: now a thriving cultural centre with a gallery, concert hall and dance studios, it is also home to wildly popular caférestaurant THT with its delicious yet affordable menu and its sprawling terrace. Its beautiful garden is a green haven to stroll or sit when it’s not hosting one event or another. Music is courtesy of pop temple Paradiso; the cultural programming is extensive and varied (think lindy-hop classes and theatre festivals); and they even offer tours that’ll teach you all about the gallows where prisoners were hanged back in the 17th century.

CORA BRUSSEE, 68 retired

‘The area is ﬂat so it makes for an easy bike ride… when it’s not windy! I love this landscape, it’s so different from the rest of the country.’

bly originated from a former planet in our solar system. A pretty cool claim to fame for such a quiet, rural area. Leave the village by following Broekermeerdijk, a waterside testament to the Dutch love for houseboats. Kanaaldijk will take you back to the more urban side of Noord, but not before meandering through more fields, grasslands and tiny, friendly hamlets, with the occasional windmill – a great breath of fresh air away from the bustle, which is much closer than it feels. THE FULL MONTY Noord really has it all. Nowhere else in Amsterdam can you find such a wide variety of architectures or meet so many different kinds of people. But especially, nowhere else can you enjoy such a range of activities, as all it takes is a (free and quick) ride on the ferry to spend the day biking around meadows and polders, strolling through traditional fishing villages, ship-spotting on the banks of the IJ, catching an old flick, savouring mounds of fresh seafood, and finally dancing the night away. Why even cross the river back, in the end?

IJpromenade 2 tolhuistuin.nl

> HET TWISKE Another scenic bike ride through Noord takes you up to Het Twiske, a vast recreational park in the middle of a gorgeous natural preserve, where you can hike, bike, roller skate, ride your horse, and even swim on sunnier days. They also offer canoes, rowboats and sailing boats for rent to head off on your own adventure. Fishing and barbecuing are allowed, or you can have a snack or a meal at one of their many kiosks or cafés. If you just can’t bring yourself to leave, spend the night at their campground. twiske-waterland.nl

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Discover your Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/neighbourhoods

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

Ask a foodie for their favourite restaurant, and they might feel compelled to mention some high-end haunt, where tasting menus are plated with gold-tipped tweezers and served with hushed reverence. But enquire where they return time and again, and you’ll end up with an entirely different destination; most likely one where you’re welcomed with open arms and the food is unpretentious yet dependably good. Primi is such a place. A cool, contemporary decor − think stone grey, sunny ochre and palm print wallpaper − matches its modern, mildly Sicilianised menu. The passion is palpable: when we asked about our (surprisingly unsweet) cherry spritz, host-owner Valerio d’Amore proudly showed us the bottle of artisan Ciliegia liqueur used to mix it, and we were treated to an explanation of each dish by fellow Sicilian chef-owner Matteo Sineri, who brought everything to our table. Do go here for the aperitivo (it’s one of the best in town, see page 43), but if you have the time, linger over arancini (deepfried risotto balls, €9), caponata (sweet and sour aubergine stew) and meatballs in tomato sauce with nduja (a spicy spreadable salumi), stracciatella cheese and fried basil (€12). If you’re lucky, there’ll be mixed seafood fritti (€13), squid ink risotto (€16) or Sineri’s creamy, dreamy tiramisu (€6.50). Primi is the next-gen neighbourhood Italian everyone wants on their street corner, and it’s telling that we were surrounded by at least some Westerpark regulars, considering the relatively short time since its opening this summer. Van der Hoopstraat 96 primiamsterdam.nl

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PRIMI CUCINA & BAR

NEW

eating out

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41 trendy LIBERTINE CAFÉ CAFÉ A monochrome medley of marble, moody charcoal and blonde wood, this buzzy restaurant is the brainchild of horeca heavy-hitters Casper Reinders and Steven Pooters, who wanted to ‘create a place for locals and wanderers alike’ with a relaxed no reservations policy and ‘simple New York-style food’. You’ll ﬁnd eggs en cocotte with prosciutto and asparagus, crisp-crusted pizzetta with artichoke, mozzarella and oregano and linguine with meatballs. The parmesan-ﬂecked tagliata (sliced bavette steak, €18) alone is worth braving the crowds for. It comes with rocket salad, but do order some anchovy-asparagus (€7) on the side.

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critic’s choice GEBR. HARTERING

he Hartering brothers’ nouveau-rustic approach ruffled a few fine dining feathers back when the restaurant launched in 2010, but quickly won over local foodies with unfussy à la carte hits, such as rosemary-covered roasted bone marrow served with crusty bread and pureed garlic (€15), 6-week hung rib roast seared on a charcoal grill (€39 per person sharing) and an impeccable cheese plate (€15). There’s also a five-course chef ’s menu (€55) inspired by the seasons. Peperstraat 10-hs gebr-hartering.nl

©MITCHELL VAN VOORBERGEN

Wolvenstraat 22 libertinecafe.amsterdam

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classic CASA SABATELLI

quick & simple JACKETZ For authentic okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese pancakes) head over to this Jordaan-based specialist, where you’ll ﬁnd three regional varieties: Osaka-style with mountain potato puree; the multi-layered Hiroshima pancake with egg and noodles; and Kobe-style Negiyaki with spring onions. The simpler the better; the negiyaki with mushrooms (€14.50) packs an umami punch without the heft of some fully-loaded versions. Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 24A japanesepancakeworld.com

For freshly prepared pasta made from an ancient wheat variety that, apparently, aids digestion, you can’t go wrong at this Apulian eatery. Traditional orecchiette with homemade tomato sauce (€9.90) is served on paint-splattered plates in a decor ﬁlled with wildﬂowers and black-framed photos of the southern Italian countryside, while service is warm and welcoming. There’s also a wall of products from Puglia, including ceramic jugs of olive oil, savoury preserves and, of course, pasta from papa’s artisan factory back home. Kinkerstraat 230 casasabatelli.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

trend

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

american food

beer festivals

best ramen

PENDERGAST

THE AMSTERDAM BEER FESTIVAL

SAPPORO RAMEN SORA

From 8 to 10 September, the city’s historic former naval docks play host to an international line-up of 15 small and mid-sized craft breweries, with 'live brewing’, food trucks and live music (tickets €20,00, includes entrance, a programme and tasting ‘coins’).

With a name that translates as ‘the Sapporo heavens’, this Ceintuurbaan ramen shop sets the bar sky-high with its extensive selection of excellent Japanese noodle soups, of which the tonkatsu is the best in town, hands down (from €14). Pork lovers will enjoy the rich, almost creamy broth with layered porcine ﬂavours and noodles with just the right chewy bite.

Hip Westerpark is home to Amsterdam’s best brisket and rave-worthy ribs, slowsmoked over Dutch fruitwood by Kansas-born cook Brandon Woodruff. ‘The Spread’ – a trio of mains with three sides, cornbread and homemade pickles and sauces – is excellent value for money at €61 as it serves two hungry eaters. Groen van Prinstererstraat 14 pendergast.nl

WYERS BAR & KITCHEN This swanky American comfort food restaurant by Brooklyn-born chef ‘SammyD’ may draw locals back to an area viliﬁed for its tourist traps, with its veal tartare tonnato & lardo (€16), two-patty Gouda burgers (€14) and lollipop chicken wings with buffalo sauce & blue cheese dip (€15). Nieuwendijk 60 restaurantwyers.com

BULLS & DOGS While the pretzel bun-based hot dogs at this little slice of hipster heaven divide opinion between purists and fans – do try the ‘Smokey Pepper Dog’ with merguez sausage and harissa (€6.00) and hand-cut sweet potato fries (€4.25) – the ‘freakshakes’, including the ‘Dutch Cookie Wookie (€6.50), loaded with stroopwafels, chocolate and caramel, are universally adored. Van Woustraat 58 Foodhallen (Bellamyplein 53) bullsanddogs.com

Marineterrein Amsterdam Kattenburgerstraat 5 tabfestival.com

BIER WEST FESTIVAL Try beers from around 30 breweries, including Bruut, Lowlander, BrewDog and Lagunitas at the Bier West craft beer festival (tickets from €7,50), which includes a Vrij-mi-bier (‘Friday afternoon beers’) session, an over-18s day with DJs and dancing (16 Sep) and a ‘family edition’ (17 Sep), which promises a ‘more relaxed’ experience with kids’ entertainment. From 15 to 17 September. Rembrandtpark taptevents.nl

PINT BOKBIERFESTIVAL

Ceintuurbaan 49 sapporo.ramensora.nl

MENYA TAKEICHI We can’t think of a better cure-all to cold season than this collagen-rich chicken bone broth with authentic Japanese noodles. It comes in ﬁve variations, from simple soya to extra creamy and super spicy (from €12). Vijzelstraat 135 ‘Menya Takeichi Amsterdam’ on Facebook

TAKA JAPANESE KITCHEN

Dutch brewers have embraced bokbier, a seasonal beer with Bavarian origins, and you can sample over 100 local varieties on tap at the 40th edition of the Netherlands’ largest beer festival. Purchase a ticket (€20,00) at the door of the centrallylocated Beurs van Berlage convention centre from 27 to 29 October, and say proost.

Tucked away on the second floor of Amsterdam’s oldest Asian supermarket, is a popup that serves the city’s finest vegetarian ramen. There are meatier options and okonomiyaki on the menu too, but what’s truly impressive is how Chef Taka manages to pack so much umami flavour into his 100% vegetable base (from €7.50). Window seats have pretty views of Geldersekade.

Beurs van Berlage (Damrak 243) pintbbf.nl

Toko Dun Yong, Stormsteeg 9 facebook.com/ayanokouji.sasuke

Grand Café Krasnapolsky

THINGS WITH DRINKS Beyond the borrel Beyond the borrel he tradition of going out for an Americanos, Negronis and ﬁve kinds

aperitif with a bite or two as a leisurely prologue to dinner is gaining ground in Amsterdam. While not exactly a hard-sell in the land of the borrel, you could argue that more Amsterdam restaurants are simply trading up from the ubiquitous beer and bitterballen. For chic yet simple hors d’oeuvres, stop by Grand Café Krasnapolsky for champagne and Spéciales Gillardeau with lemon gel drops, or splash out at The Duchess, where you’ll ﬁnd punches, aperitifs and cocktails (try ‘Above the Clouds’ an ethereal foam-topped mix of gin, grapefruit and Aperol) and bites such as housemade bresaola, velvety chicken liver pâté and foie gras donuts. In the Italian aperitivo tradition, the bites come free, as it does at Ferilli's Caffè, where featherlight focaccia and juicy green olives accompany traditional

of spritz. Primi (see page 40) steps it up with a refreshing pineapple ﬁtz served with a generous free platter of delightful Sicilian bites which, when we visited, included sweet prawns, caponata, arancini, mini calzones, olives and spicy nduja spread.. GRAND CAFÉ KRASNAPOLSKY (hors d’oeuvres hour 18:00-19:00) Dam 9 grandcafekrasnapolsky.nl THE DUCHESS (after 18:00) Spuistraat 172 the-duchess.com FERRILI’S CAFFE (from 17:00) Roelof Hartstraat 1 thecollegehotel.com/ferillis PRIMI BAR + CUCINA Van der Hoopstraat 96 primiamsterdam.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Imke Walenberg

DIY SOAP

NEW IN TOWN

he story’s all in the name: here you can make your own, do-it-yourself soap. From their wide range of ingredients (for the most part organic and, when possible, locallygrown), you select your favourites and compose DIY packages that you can bring home to mix and ﬁnish yourself, for a completely natural, customised skin and hair care. For a Sugar Body Scrub, buy a preserving jar into

which you scoop all the ingredients at the shop, including your preferred scent, and simply stir these at home with almond oil. The result? A ready-to-use and fresher-than-fresh homemade scrub. In addition to these DIY packages, you can also purchase ready-to-use products. DIY Soap encourages customers to return for reﬁlls with their original jars, bottles and packaging, which are all durable – so their products are good for your body but also good for the environ-

ment! They offer workshops in the store, where you will experiment with various types of ingredients, and after which you can take your creations home. The shop itself looks as natural and pure as its concoctions, and so does its philosophy: the company employs people with disabilities to handmake and package many of them. Van Woustraat 48 diysoap.nl

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eye-catching HAASTJE REPJE

couch surfing 4X6SOFA

The new home of Haastje Repje has a beautiful façade and an enticing window: it sets the tone for the shop’s interior, with its wooden ﬂoor, the vintage glass-top counter and the art on the walls, which provide a pleasant, low-threshold atmosphere. Here you can shop for eye-catching clothes like dresses by Ana Alcazar, tops from Lollys Laundry or denim by Pepe Jeans. Van Woustraat 64 haastjerepje.nl

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Buying a couch or a chair online is becoming a bigger and better trend. But how do you know it sits comfortably, just the way you like it? And what about the colour, what with those pesky computer screens not always being true to reality? At 4×6SOFA, they’ve made it easy for you: choose from 6 models and 24 colours for one fixed price. You can come over and perform all the sitting (and lounging?) tests your derrière desires at their office/shop located in Amsterdam Zuid. You’ll also find all their colour palettes so you can mix, match and create your own perfect sofa 'Pinterest board'. Hendrik Jacobszstraat 18 4x6sofa.com

eco-conscious ALMOST NOT DONE This new fashion and art paradise settled in the busy heart of Amsterdam this summer. At concept store Almost Not Done, sustainable is key. It's a platform that highlights and curates the work of young and inspiring creatives through offline and online events. In the shop you’ll find a mix of interior, fashion and art objects, both new and second-hand. You’ll also find reknowned brands like Comme Des Garçons, Prada, Raf Simons.

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Beulingstraat 21h facebook.com/almostnotdone

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

advertorial

Table top Amsterdam’s passion for the purity of Nordic design makes it the perfect home for Iittala, the famous Finnish creators of timeless tableware. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Aino and Alvar Aalto

e see them the world over, these delicate pieces of dinnerware veiled by clear pearls of glass, reminiscent of a fresh morning rain. They catch our eye from adorned dinner tables, wooden cabinets or even mantelpieces, with their enticing curves and colours, their grace almost royal. Originally designed by Oiva Toikka for Iittala in 1964, the Kastehelmi dewdrop collection has crossed many generations, so beloved that it was relaunched by the famous Finnish brand in 2010.

IITTALA Van Baerlestraat 76 iittala.com

BEAUTY AND BRAINS Like most of their products, the dewdrop design embraces Iittala’s ideal that objects for our home should be timeless. From the very

beginning, at the end of the 19th century, when Iittala was but a small glass factory in a village of southern Finland, its craftsmen have put the emphasis not only on the exceptional quality of the glass, but also on the beauty of its details. After the 1930s, their pioneering designers, Alvar and Aino Aalto and Kaj Franck, decided to modernise the products; a revolution in a world still laden by ornate, traditional and impractical tableware. Yet they never forgot the brand’s roots: beauty remains just as important as functionality. Simplifying the designs could not mean losing their character, and still today the creative team at Iittala strives to produce dinner-

ware that is just as practical for everyday use as it is visually awe-inspiring: ﬂawless lines, classy shapes, and materials and decorations which can withstand the passage of years and trends. TIMELESS DESIGNS Because of this rare talent, it is not uncommon to see their older designs still in use today. Sometimes they have been passed on from generation to generation, treasured family heirlooms; but also, because demand has never waned, Iittala continues to produce some items from collections created decades ago, such as the Alvar Aalto vase, a marvel of delicate curves, which was ﬁrst made in 1936. They still infuse their new prod-

Glass production

ucts with this same spirit of timelessness. Heikki Orvola, one of the brand’s designers, has been with Iittala since 1968 – almost 50 years. Of his hundreds of creations, he describes ‘a design process that always starts with a strong focus on the objective.’ Specialised in glass-blowing and ceramics, his years of experience have brought him a deep knowledge of Iittala’s drive to produce objects that will last in people’s homes and hearts. MIX AND MATCH What is most unique about Iittala’s different lines of products is how well they marry. While the shapes and colours can vary wildly, there is a cohesion throughout

their collection that makes it easy to mix and match them: their Teema dinnerware from 1952 looks ravishing accompanied by the more colourful Origo series created in 1999, or can be given a demure look by the 2012’s Sarjaton line. This combinability bears witness to the cohesion of their vision and craftsmanship, and to their impeccable taste – like a lady’s ﬁne attention to the pairings in her jewellery box. AN AMSTERDAM FAVOURITE Iittala opened their ﬁrst shop in Amsterdam in 2006, and moved to a new location at Van Baerlestraat 76 in 2015. ‘Nordic design may be a huge trend worldwide at the moment, but the Dutch have

always loved it: because of their no-nonsense, straightforward mentality, they prefer pure, clean, natural and simple designs’, says Jutta Lechner, the store manager. She adds that the Museum Quarter is the perfect neighbourhood for this exquisite brand, because ‘it attracts a cultured, broad-minded audience – not only locals, but also design-hungry visitors.’ A crowd favourite is the Teema collection, with its endless combinations of shapes, sizes, and especially colours. All of the brand’s glassware is coloured through-and-through, insuring that its beauty and vibrance survive the test of time, the signature and pride of Iittala’s creations.

AMSTERDAM GIFTS

TOP 5 #iamsterdamstore

ARTIS ALL ANIMALS BLOCKS

These colourful construction blocks allow you to re-create all the furry and feathered friends you met during your visit at Amsterdam’s Artis Royal Zoo – and more, even those straight out of your imagination. Endless combinations and fun, for little ones or animal-loving grown-ups. €22.50

BEER PACKAGE

Beer has been a key commodity in Amsterdam since the Middle Ages, and there are new breweries sprouting up all over Amsterdam every day. This selection of beloved local beers will quench your thirst not only for a fresh one, but also for history, culture and discovery. €17.50

KALANI AMSTERDAM

Iranian designer Reza Kalani uses his talent to honour his adoptive city by creating

exquisite scarves which marry the works of the Dutch Masters with modern, geometric designs. Wrapped around your shoulders: a unique way to take the art of Amsterdam home. €70-85

V@AMSTERDAM

The soft, luxurious and cozy pillows made by design atelier V@Amsterdam bring the iconic Amsterdam canal houses to your couch. Available in gorgeous colours and two sizes (45x45cm and 70x70cm), these lovely handcrafted cushions are also sustainable and socially-conscious.

IJ-hal

€60-109

LOQI

Cool bag-creators Loqi design bags that combine beauty and function, including this lovely tote adorned with the dreamy swirls of Van Gogh’s Starry Night. €12.95

Central Station main entrance

iamsterdam.com/store

PART IV

THE

sep & oct 2017

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see iamsterdam.com

ZANELE MUHOLI Artist and activist Zanele Muholi presents a captivating photography exhibition that examines LGBT identity in South Africa. The photographs, taken in the artist’s home country, are compiled from two series: ‘Faces and Phases – Portraits of South African Lesbians’, and ‘Brave Beauties’, which celebrates transgender women. A premiere in the Netherlands, her new series of self-portraits ‘Hail, the Dark Lioness’ will also be featured, showing the new face of Muholi’s work: her own. ‘Her self-portraits are incredibly confrontational, but also funny and moving. In an extremely inventive way, Muholi creates historical, cultural and personally-inspired versions of blackness. She undermines the black women’s clichés and refers to current discussions about stigmatization and stereotyping’, says curator Hripsimé Visser.

Until 15 Oct Stedelijk Museum stedelijk.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS MARTIN SCORSESE In 2017, Amsterdam’s EYE Filmmuseum celebrates the work of Martin Scorsese, one of the greatest filmmakers of the past half-century. Clips, photographs and memorabilia from films like 'Taxi Driver', 'Raging Bull', 'Goodfellas' and 'The Wolf of Wall Street' have been curated from his and Robert De Niro’s private collections, to tell the fascinating stories behind the films. EYE, until 3 Sep SOLUTION OR UTOPIA? DESIGN FOR REFUGEES More than 50 designers have devised innovative solutions to the challenges experienced by the world’s 60 million refugees. The exhibition 'Solution or utopia? Design for refugees' explores the ways that art and design can make a real impact on the world. Several of the proposals were designed or implemented by refugees, such as the flag designed by the Syrian Yara Said for the Refugee Nation during the last Olympic Games, and the furniture by Cucula, which is produced in Berlin. Stedelijk Museum, until 3 Sep GORDON PARKS – I AM YOU. SELECTED WORKS 1942-1978 Iconic American photographer Gordon Parks (1912-2006) is best known for his black-andwhite photographs, but he also produced a lot of work in colour throughout his career. This expansive retrospective shows 120 of his works, including many colour photographs, portraits, documentary photos and fashion photography. You can also view excerpts from his films, which, in combination with the contact sheets and magazines containing his work, portray the social and political context in which he worked. Foam, until 6 Sep ROBERT GLAS BEFORE THE LAW Dutch visual artist Robert Glas’s new project is series of images, installations and short

films that scrutinise the technologies used by nation-states to monitor the movement of people, and especially immigrants. The subject is dear to Glas, whose previous works include the infamous ‘Voor Vrij Nederland’, a series of depictions of Dutch detention centres for undocumented immigrants, one that Glas pushed through multiple lawsuits to make public. ‘Before the Law’ is no less critical, and goes to great lengths to criticise bureaucracy and legislative inconsistencies surrounding immigration. Foam, until 10 Sep IN THE FOREST. VAN GOGH, ROUSSEAU, COROT In the late 19th century, artists experimented with painting impressions of landscapes and outdoor scenes, inspired by natural light. Vincent van Gogh, Théodore Rousseau and Camille Corot were among a group of artists who took their paints and easels out into forests and rural areas to capture the beauty of these natural scenes. This summer, the Van Gogh Museum presents a collection of exquisite landscape paintings from the artists. Van Gogh Museum, until 10 Sep CHRIS BEEKMAN, DE STIJL DEFECTOR Get to know one of the unsung heroes of the De Stijl art movement during its centenary. Chris Beekman is a lesser-known artist who was associated with Bart van der Leck and Piet Mondrian early in his career. He later abandoned the principles of the movement in favour of figurative works that promoted his leftwing political views. Stedelijk Museum, until 17 Sep ROMANOVS & REVOLUTION Travel back in time to St Petersburg 1917, the ultimate turning point in Russia’s history. This exhibition marks 100 years since the beginning of the Russian Revolution. See paintings, clothing and precious objects that belonged to Russia’s last imperial family on display. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 17 Sep

advert

Thirty enormous

17th century group portraits

SMALL WONDERS An exhibition that urges you to take a closer look. 'Small Wonders' is a collection of rare religious artefacts including figurines, prayer beads, boxwood pendants and other tiny treasures. Each piece is elaborately carved to depict biblical scenes in microscopic detail, demonstrating the immense craftsmanship of the artists. Rijksmuseum, until 17 Sep SEA VIEWS The Rijksmuseum takes us to the beach (or at least the sea) this summer with this photography exhibition. These 35 photographs, on loan from a private collector, capture the astonishing power of the water and the sea’s ability to appear turquoise one moment and almost black the next. Rijksmuseum, until 17 Sep SARAH VAN SONSBEECK In times gone by, the Oude Kerk was one of the few public, covered places where sails and nets could be mended, and a space where naval heroes were buried. With this exhibition, Sarah van Sonsbeeck invites the sea into the church once more in order to prompt visitors to reflect on the monumental building’s earlier significance, as well as its current meaning of protection and shelter in an era when refugees endure horrific sea crossings. Oude Kerk, until 17 Sep NEW REALITIES Some of the most intriguing photographs of all time were taken shortly after the invention of the camera in 1839. This exhibition showcases pioneering photographers whose work varies greatly in subject, technique and purpose. Rijksmuseum, until 17 Sep PRINTS OF ANDY WARHOL AND OTHER POP ARTISTS Step into the Pop Art world of iconic artist Andy Warhol. While he was all about exploring the surface and the accessibility of art, this exhibition also invites you look behind the scenes of his screen-printing processes and even showcases a replica of his famous Factory. And naturally, you can wander round the exhibition to look at his most f amous screen prints. Beurs van Berlage, until 30 Sep MODERNISM: IN PRINT UvA's Special Collections looks at a century of Dutch graphic design and the influence of the De Stijl art movement. It features works, old and new, by the likes of Piet Zwart, Dick Elffers, Jurriaan Schrofer, Wim Crouwel and Experimental Jetset. Special Collections, until 1 Oct DUBUFFET IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM GARDENS Jean Dubuffet is a sculptor and assemblage artist who made a name for himself with his radical, painted sculp-

tures, distinguished by their graphic lines and use of colour. He has been commissioned to create monumental artworks all over the world, and the 12 pieces brought together here have travelled from Paris, Lisbon, New York and London. Take a stroll through the museum’s garden (it’s free!) and explore his works during this annual open-air sculptural showcase. Rijksmuseum, until 1 Oct ZANELE MUHOLI Artist and activist Zanele Muholi presents a captivating photography exhibition that examines LGBT identity in South Africa. The photographs, taken in the artist’s home country, are compiled from two series: ‘Faces and Phases – Portraits of South African Lesbians’, and ‘Brave Beauties’, which celebrates transgender women. Stedelijk Museum, until 15 Oct JANA EULER: HIGH IN AMSTERDAM - THE SKY OF AMSTERDAM German artist Jana Euler presents her paintings, sculptural works and texts in a new exhibition that sees abstract pieces displayed alongside figurative works, delving into concepts of contemporary identity and what shapes it. Stedelijk Museum, until 15 Oct EDWARD KRASINSKI The Stedelijk Museum celebrates the achievements of Polish artist Edward KrasiÐski with a full retrospective. This exhibition, comprised of sculptures, installations and paintings, demonstrates his position as one of the most innovative artists from Eastern Europe. His experimental approach led to works that were inspiring, unique and often infused with witty irony. Stedelijk Museum, until 15 Oct DREAMS OF THE IJ – FIVE VISIONS OF THE PAST The banks of the River IJ are vibrant hotspots of urban regeneration. As exciting as current and future developments for these areas actually are, ARCAM looks back at five historical visions that never came to fruition. ARCAM, until 28 Oct FASHION CITIES AFRICA There is no such thing as African fashion. Instead, Africa has dozens of unique styles ranging from streetwear to couture, flourishing across the continent. Styles are personal, and often have deep local roots. ‘Fashion Cities Africa’ explores these t hrough the eyes of local designers, stylists and photographers, and includes creations by the likes of The Sartists (Johannesburg), Said Mahrouf (Casablanca) and the Maki Oh fashion label (Lagos). Tropenmuseum, 6 Oct-7 Nov

FOAM TALENT Get set for the new cultural season by soaking up the newest photography talents at Foam. This year the museum launches its Foam Talent exhibition alongside Foam Magazine's Talent Issue. Within, you can find works by 20 international artists. Foam, 1 Sep-12 Nov THE GULAG Over 18 million people were sent to the Soviet prison camps known as the Gulag, thousands of whom were Dutch. The communists inherited the tradition from the tsars, with the initial intention of re-educating inmates to align with the new party system. But after Lenin’s death, Stalin turned these into massive complexes of great economic significance, as the inmates were made to mine raw material or do menial labour. This exhibition gives insight into their daily lives, as well as the socio-political climate of the period; it was put together with the help of Russia experts Jelle Brandt Corstius, Alexander Macalister and Nanci Adler. Dutch Resistance Museum, until 12 Nov APICHATPONG Weerasethakul & Cao Guimarães Featured works from two award-winning film artists come together at the EYE Filmmuseum this autumn in one major exhibition. The works of Apichatpong Weerasethakul (1970) and Cao Guimarães (1965) will urge guests to step out of their structured reality and into new sensory experiences. They draw inspiration from the socio-political conditions of their respective countries, and explore life and the human condition through a keen eye. EYE, 16 Sep-3 Dec VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands, both before and after the introduction of the Housing Act in 1901. Explore a life-sized hovel, built next to the museum, to discover what living conditions really were like. Museum Het Schip, permanent ALEPPO Experience a now and then view of Aleppo, the wartorn Syrian city. At the heart of the exhibition is the Tropenmuseum's own scale model of the historic city, as it was then. This is paired with photographs by renowned photographers like Stanley Greene and Eddy van Wessel, postcards and videos, all providing insights into life in Aleppo before and during the war. Former Aleppo citizens will also host guided tours and share stories – check the Tropenmuseum website for schedules. Tropenmuseum, until 31 Dec

sep & oct 2017

CARLOS MOTTA THE CROSSING Carlos Motta’s ‘The Crossing’ is a video portrait of 11 LGBTQI refugees who talk about their exodus from their oppressive homelands, and journey to the Netherlands. The subjects – selected with the help of Amsterdam-based organisation Secret Garden – faced overt discrimination in Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Morocco, Syria and Pakistan, but also intimidation and exclusion during their asylum-seeking processes in Dutch refugee camps. Besides the video testimonials, the exhibition also features a small selection of historic objects from the Rijksmuseum, Tropenmuseum and Amsterdam Museum. Stedelijk Museum, 16 Sep-7 Jan RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired exhibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz, blues, and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown's cape can all be seen. Relive key moments in history through archival film clips and hear the personal stories that have shaped pop music around the world. Tropenmuseum, until 7 Jan BODY ART Body art and body modification, including tattoos and piercings, but also scarification, branding and implants, have a long history and are present in numerous cultures around the globe. This exhibition explores the various meanings and functions of

KIJK AMSTERDAM 1700-1800 Eighteenth-century Amsterdam comes alive this September through a stunning collection of Amsterdam prints and drawings, courtesy of the Amsterdam City Archives. The collection is a comprehensive study of Amsterdam’s historical canals, residents, architecture and more, and is exhibited on an unprecedented scale. The collection is also extensively researched, from material and paper types to signatures and footnotes, the fruits of which are presented to visitors through interactive installations. Amsterdam City Archives, 15 Sep-14 Jan DUTCH MASTERS FROM THE STATE HERMITAGE One of the biggest exhibitions of the year, this collection of masterpieces from the Hermitage in St Petersburg shines a light on the Dutch Masters. Travel back in time to the Netherlands' Golden Age and encounter many of the works that influenced artistic styles in the centuries that followed. Sixty-three works by 50 different artists will be on display here in Amsterdam, naturally including some really big names: Rembrandt, Ferdinand Bol, Gerard Dou, Govert Flinck and Frans Hals. But amongst the halls, you're also likely to encounter some lesser-known works that are equally majestic. Hermitage Amsterdam, 7 Oct-27 May

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution. BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens. DIAMANT MUSEUM The Amsterdam Diamond Museum takes you on a journey that began 3 billion years ago, 200 kilometres under the surface of the earth – ending in the present-day with beautiful cut diamonds. You’ll find out about the carbon atom, meet specialists who transform a rough stone into a sparkling jewel, learn how to distinguish

Choice exhibit

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life. VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

JOHAN MAELWAEL One of the founders of Dutch painting, Johan Maelwael painted everything from armour to large religious paintings, and refined miniatures in illuminated manuscripts. He also introduced his nephews, legendary miniature painters the Limbourg brothers, to Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy. Maelwael’s paintings will be exhibited alongside medieval artwork, metalwork, sculptures and manuscripts, courtesy of the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the MET in New York and the Gemäldegalerie in Berlin, amongst others. Rijksmuseum, 6 Oct-7 Jan

THE DUTCH IN PARIS 1789-1914 Travel back to 19th-century Paris, a hotbed of artistic creativity. Artists flocked from all over the world to be a part of it, and Dutch painters were no different - of course, Van Gogh's brief time in Paris also marked a key shift in his painting style. This exhibition looks at how these international talents mixed - French art influencing Dutch art, and likewise - showing major paintings from both nations, side-by-side. Van Gogh Museum, 13 Oct-7 Jan

body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity. Tropenmuseum, until 4 Jan

BURLESQUE DANCER SATYRIC DANCER 1926 © ANDRE KERTESZ

MATTHIJS MARIS A retrospective exhibition featuring the works of Maris, a 19th-century Dutch painter based mainly in London and Paris. Showing mystical or fairy tale-like figures, his works are unmistakable, and his eccentric lifestyle and idiosyncratic paintings provided inspiration to young artists, including Vincent van Gogh. Many of the works exhibited here are on loan from the Burrell Collection in Glasgow, given special permission to leave Scotland while that museum undergoes drastic refurbishment. Rijksmuseum, Oct 6-Jan 7

ANDRÉ KERTÉSZ MIRRORING LIFE Hungarian-born photographer André Kertész made extraordinary contributions to photography and photographic composition throughout the 20th century. Known for his unusual compositions, and for capturing but never commenting on his subjects, Kertész spent much of his career feeling unrecognised. He is now often considered the father of photojournalism, however, and regarded as a master by many prominent photographers. Foam, 15 Sep-10 Jan between real and imitation diamonds and admire the collection of sparkling jewels on display. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public. REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries. RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th century.

GOVERT FLINCK AND FERDINAND BOL – REMBRANDT’S MASTER PUPILS This exhibition of works by Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck brings together paintings from museums and private collections from all over the world, some of which have not been in the Netherlands since the 17th century. The exhibition is held simultaneously in four key locations across the city: the Amsterdam Museum, the Rembrandt House, the Royal Palace and Museum Van Loon. 13 Oct-18 Feb GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons. HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century. HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants.

HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing s eries of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ POP & JAZZ

with bluegrass undertones. Sun 10 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, €12

DREADZONE NEIL DIAMOND Melding conflicting genres is the On the legend's 50th-anniversary forte of British seven-piece tour, expect to hear all the clasDreadzone. Dub, reggae, trip sics, including 'Sweet Caroline', hop and rock are all added to 'Hello Again' and 'Play Me'. the atmospheric mixing pot to Sun 10 & Sat 23 Sep, Ziggo pretty good effect. Dome, 20:00, €54-€109 Sat 2 Sep, Sugarfactory, 20:30, €15 RYAN MCMULLAN DANIEL ROMANO After supporting both Snow Patrol and Ed Sheeran on tour, 'Come Cry With Me' (2013) propassionate Irish singer-songpelled this Canadian artist onto an international platform, and writer Ryan McMullan is out on his very own headline journey he hasn't looked back since. across Europe. Mon 4 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, Sun 10 Sep Tolhuistuin, €17.50 20:00, €12 BOMBA ESTÉREO SAN CISCO Columbian three-piece Bomba Influenced by indie superstars Estéreo's music is an amalgamaMGMT, The Flaming Lips and tion of hip-hop, reggae and elecVampire Weekend, the band tro, with that quintessential South stand out from the crowd with American enthusiasm added to their poppy, quirky and hookthe mix for an extra kick. laden blend of indie. Tue 5 Sep, Paradiso, Sun 10 Sep, Bitterzoet, 20:30, €20 21:00, €13 NADIA REID JOEY CAPE Armed with a pensive voice and Lagwagon's Joey Cape is bringher trusty acoustic guitar, this New Zealander has been touted ing some of his favourite musicians on tour to celebrate his as the next big thing. ‘One Week Records’ sessions, in Tue 5 Sep, Paradiso, which he records 10 songs with 20:00, €10 a hand-picked muso over the SUPERSUCKERS course of a week. Mon 11 Sep, Melkweg, It's hard to believe that it's been 19:30, €15 almost 30 years since rockabilly-flavoured garage punkers SuGIRLPOOL persuckers hit the scene. Eddie This all-girl duo dabbles in Spaghetti's boys are most at folk punk. home when they're playing their Tue 12 Sep, Paradiso, cowboy-hat-wearing, pedal-to22:15, €11 the-metal rock 'n' roll. Thur 7 Sep, Paradiso, TOM MCRAE 22:00, €12.50 When British singer-songwriter LUCIA CADOTSCH Tom McRae gets his concoction of apocalyptic folk right, he realOver the past two years, Zuly gets it right. rich-born Lucia Cadotsch has Wed 13 Sep, Vondelkerk, captured the hearts of the jazz 20:30, €17.50 world with her clear, graceful and intense tones. Fri 8 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, €15 MIKE AND THE MECHANICS When Phil Collins was off galaMALA RODRÍGUEZ vanting on his solo tour, this is what Genesis guitarist Mike RuSpanish rapper Mala Rodríguez's hard-hitting lyrics therford was up to: making music in a pop/rock supergroup. and her confident bravado have Thur 14 Sep, Melkweg, inspired a loyal fanbase. 19:00, €36 Sat 9 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, €25

Choice pop & jazz

singer-songwriter and musician still strives to push himself out of his comfort zone, as exemplified in his 2016 album, 'Darkness and Light'. Fri 22 Sep, Ziggo Dome, 19:00, €49 MAXÏMO PARK North East England's finest return to Amsterdam for a showcase of post-punk-infused rock. Fri 22 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, €20

SLOWDIVE Atmospheric and tricked-out guitar-based dream pop is the name of the game for this English band. Their original run (1989-1995) fell into the psychedelic sounds of shoegaze, and they maintained a strong following and reputation. After moving onto softer sounds in the more acoustic Mojave 3, then a host of solo releases, Slowdive found itself reunited a few years ago. What started as a celebration of their past has now given birth to a new self-titled album, as strong as, if not stronger than what came before. Fri 6 Oct, Paradiso, 19:30, €25

SEETHER Seether embraces rock influences from all fronts, including hard rock, heavy metal and altrock, but nothing influenced the trio as much as '90s grunge. Fri 22 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.50 ARCANE ROOTS Arcane Roots's progressive take on the genre harks back to the glory days of alternative rock; yet, the boys certainly aren't afraid of venturing into uncharted waters either. Sat 23 Sep, Paradiso, 20:00, €20 THE DISTRICTS The Districts' sound walks the line between emotional songwriting and rock 'n' roll grit. Sun 24 Sep, Paradiso, 22:00, €10

AMADOU & MARIAM Since releasing the hit album 'Dimanche à Bamako' in 2004, charming Malian husband-and-wife duo have been taking their vibrant world pop music to the world. Big on harmonies and danceable rhythms, the duo has a strong connection that can be felt through their music, while Amadou lets rip on the guitar. Recent releases have brought a blend of African and Western influences together, including hip-hop, rock and electronica. New tracks from their upcoming album 'La Confusion' also suggest a touch more disco and funk. Sat 14 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €26.45

SYLVAN ESSO Effervescent and friendly on the surface, the chirpy electro pop grooves of this American duo are perfect for the radio. Paired with vibrant, dancey live sets, the group have worked their way through a number of sold out tours in recent years, now ending up in the main room of Paradiso. Initially a sideshow for vocalist Amelia Meath (of the folk group Mountain Man) and producer Nick Sanborn (Megafaun, Made of Oak), their success has spiralled with recent album 'What Now', thanks to its bright pop sensibilities and darker lyrical twists. Mon 30 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, €17

G-DRAGON South Korean singer, model and producer G-DRAGON is at the centre of his country's K-Pop epidemic... well, technically now a pandemic, as the genre has picked up steam across the world. Known for his bombastic dress sense and unyielding charisma, the artist is one of Korea's highest-paid celebrities by endorsers, which explains the extortionate ticket prices. Tue 26 Sep, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €60-€205 TO PIANOS - KAJA DRAKSLER & EVE RISSLER Eve Risser and Kaja Draksler – renowned pianists in their own rights – make up this exciting piano duo. They each utilise their diverse skills and techniques in dramatic and imaginative ways. Together, they take audiences on a wild melodic ride, as Risser's unconventional prepared piano methods complement and clash with Draksler's improvisational imagination. Wed 27 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, €15

SWMRS TAMI NEILSON The raw '80s-style punk This Canadian soul singer-songwriter started out in her parents' SWRMS serve up takes more inspiration from The Clash than country band, The Neilsons. from Green Day. She's now out on her own proThur 14 Sep, Bitterzoet, ducing heartfelt, bluesy solo THE AMAZONS together to make some raw 21:00, €10 advert '90s-esque rock tunes. These fresh-faced British indie LICKS & BRAINS WITH ERIC ALL THEM WITCHES Wed 20 Sep, Melkweg, rockers released their debut alVLOEIMANS 19:00, €17.50 This Tennessean psychedelic bum to glowing reviews, and For this show, 18-piece soul, rock band are a diverse bunch. they've been named by the likes INDIESTADT funk and jazz band Licks & Their powerful music, crazy of the BBC, The Independent Indiestadt is the brainchild of Brains are joined by Dutch stage presence and Southern and NME as one of 2017's Amsterdam's Paradiso, showtrumpeter Eric Vloeimans. swagger have helped them best newcomers. casing some of the bands signed Fri 21 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, €15 Fri 15 Sep, Bimhuis, amass quite the following. up for Hamburg's Reeperbahn 20:30, €18-€22 Rightly so: the band's sound THE MARCUS KING BAND Festival. In 2017 the festival is mixes all the right ingredients JOHNNYSWIM spread across four nights, with from blues, stoner rock and He's only 21 years old, but singsome big names headlining. This husband-and-wife duo neo-psychedelia into one mighty er-songwriter, guitarist and 20-24 Sep, Paradiso/Tolhuis- bandleader Marcus King instantwrites and performs folk, soul, musical cocktail. tuin, www.paradiso.nl blues and pop music together. Thur 28 Sep, Sugarfactory, ly impressed pundits with his Tue 19 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, €16 psychedelic, soul-influenced RAPHAEL VANOLI SOLO 20:00, €14 southern rock. KONRAD KOSELLECK BIG Guitarist Raphael Vanoli busts Thur 21 Sep, Bitterzoet, THE MAINE BAND out his electric guitar for an im21:00, €14 25 AUG – 31 AUG & 7 SEP prov session. The Maine came to fruition An accomplished jazz pianist JOHN LEGEND Wed 20 Sep, Bimhuis, when a group of five scruffy and graduate of both Hilversum SURTITLED IN ENGLISH 20:30, €8-€10 high-school kids put their heads This Academy Award-winning and Amsterdam conservatories,

MEDEA

sep & oct 2017

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ & CLASSICAL Konrad Koselleck brings his passion, energy and humour to the fore as the bandleader of this ensemble. Their frequent adventures in Amsterdam's Bimhuis throw up everything imaginable: jazz, cabaret, musicals, pop, rock, funk, Latin and even classical music. Thur 28 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, €16

may even be asked to sing. Thur 5 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €17

CARTE BLANCHE TO PAUL VAN KEMENADE Rotterdam-born alto saxophonist Paul van Kemenade celebrates his 40-year music anniversary with a three-part concert, featuring guests from the US, Russia and – of OMAR BASHIR course – the Netherlands. The Iraqi master of the oud (the The guest musicians are Arabic lute), Omar Bashir, pays highly diverse, but this is no tribute to his late father in this problem for Van Kemenade: concert. Omar will also be playafter all, he built his career ing some Iraqi classics and tunes on his adaptable and from his own repertoire. expressive sound. Sat 30 Sep, Bimhuis, Sat 7 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, 20:30, €28 €17-€20 WAXAHATCHEE DZ DEATHRAYS Although her lyrical content Buzzsaw guitar riffs meet parrarely goes beyond bad breakty-inducing anthems with this ups, American singer-songwritBrisbane-based dance-punk er Katie Crutchfield, AKA Waxduo. Their songs are both ahatchee, musically transcends danceable and moshable, so if the typical indie tropes. Her ecyou're a fan of Dune Rats and lectic songwriting, bounding Japandroids – or you just want from grungy swing to breezy to hear something a bit different ballads and back again, seems to – you'll appreciate these guys. have already secured her a spot They're insanely loud, though, amongst the next generation so you'll want your ear plugs. of indie greats. Sun 8 Oct, Sugarfactory, Sun 1 Oct, Bitterzoet, 19:30, €12 20:00, €12.50 COLD SPECKS THE VEILS Canada's champion of doom The Veils wrap charisma, soul, the instruments in this honesty and soulfulness into an singer-songwriter's tracks take indie-rock package – with a bit on an almost gothic character; of imagery, symbolism and mel- yet, her crisp vocals are always odrama thrown in for good strongly grounded in folk and measure. The result is an indie- gospel, making for an intriguing dark-pop sound and the band listen. Ladan Hussein's haunthas been praised by directors ing debut album as Cold Specks, David Lynch, Paolo Sorrentino took her around the world in and Tim Burton, who have all 2012 and was nominated for the used their songs in movie Polaris Music Prize in her homesoundtracks. land. She finds herself back in Mon 2 Oct, Paradiso, Amsterdam just a few weeks af20:30, €19 ter the release of her third album, 'Fool's Paradise'. MAYDAY PARADE Mon 9 Oct, Bitterzoet, Mayday Parade were one of the 21:00, €13 quintessential emo bands of the AIRBOURNE mid-'00s. Thanks to Myspace and legions of smitten teenage Who said rock 'n' roll was dead? girls, the guys managed to sell These long-haired, all-in-black, over 50,000 copies of their dehard-partying Aussies prove but EP without a label. They're otherwise. The very embodicurrently touring to celebrate ment of '80s rock – think fellow the 10th anniversary of their Aussies AC/DC and Rose Tattoo first studio album, 'A Lesson – the boys are currently touring in Romantics'. the globe to support their latest Mon 2 Oct, Melkweg, offering, 'Breakin' Outta Hell'. 19:00, €16 Fri 13 Oct, Melkweg, 19:00, €25 LADY GAGA ALESTORM This feisty New Yorker was touted as the freshest and most They've had more member unique thing to hit pop music changes than albums – only the when she broke through back in original vocalist remains – but 2008. Through the varied pop nothing detracts from the novelhits and costume diversions that ty of hearing a Scotland-based have followed, she's gained pirate metal band. The groghordes of vehement fans – 'Little fuelled five piece's folk-inspired, Monsters' – to back her up. And swashbuckling tunes have her shows never fail to showcase won them a worldwide fanbase. the funkiest fashion and flashiFri 13 Oct, Melkweg, est productions. 18:30, €20 Tue 3 Oct, Ziggo Dome, ASTRID S 19:30, €40-€120 Young Norwegian pop singNEWTON FAULKNER er-songwriter Astrid S first hit The double chart-topping, multhe scene when she appeared in ti-platinum selling, Brit nominat- the 2013 edition of 'Pop Idol' in ed, acoustic-guitar virtuoso and Norway. Ever since, she's been singer-songwriter from England consistently releasing EPs and has it all – apart from his tradesingles with an upbeat pop mark long dreadlocks – now sadly sound. Let's hope she doesn't trimmed. Expect a bit of friendly follow Miley's lead and jump on banter with the audience, and you a wrecking ball anytime soon.

SKINNY LISTER They've toured with Frank TurnNOUVELLE VAGUE er and opened for the now-iconThe clue's in the name with ic Dropkick Murphys, but now French band Nouvelle Vague, it's time for Skinny Lister to which translates to 'bossa nova' headline their very own show in in Portuguese and 'new wave' in Amsterdam. And thanks to the English. The group cover newrelease of their third album, wave-style music with a poppy there's plenty for this British Brazilian spin. They also feature folk group to show off. a rotating cast of mainly female Fri 27 Oct, Sugarfactory, vocalists, many of which have 22:00, €11 gone on to have successful solo LONDON CALLING careers, including Camille and Phoebe Killdeer. A favourite of music lovers in Sun 15 Oct, Melkweg, Amsterdam, taking place twice 19:30, €26.45 per year in Paradiso, London Calling showcases a collection of NECK DEEP international bands who're These Welshmen have been tipped to make it big, along with making catchy pop-punk tracks a few more who're making a for over five years now. Current- comeback: pop, rock, electronic ly on their third album, the boys' and beyond. In this special 25th recent ventures have been more anniversary edition, look out for inspired by the likes of Sum 41 raw and rootsy American acts and A Day to Remember, so get like Hurray for the Riff Raff, ready for a side order of metal Pinegrove and Big Thief, the to go with that pop-punk. shoegaze pop of Japanese Fellow punkers As It Is, Blood Breakfast and the garage indie Youth and Real Friends are of Australia's Alex Lahey. supporting. 27 & 28 Oct, Paradiso, www. Tue 17 Oct, Melkweg, londoncalling.nl 18:30, €16 EX EYE THE BREEDERS Saxophone virtuoso Colin It all started as a creative outlet Stetson's continued quest for for Pixies' Kim Deal and Throw- unusual musical crossovers has ing Muses' Tanya Donelly back finally brought him to metal. in 1989, but The Breeders His melodic and percussive use quickly grew another their own of the sax transitions well to headline attraction. The Deal the genre – as does drummer sisters still sit at the core of the Greg Fox's lightning-quick group almost 30 years later. technique. But they're so While more recent tours have much more than your average showcased the anniversary of jazz metal band; Stetson their biggest hit album, 'The and co's dark, gloomy and Last Splash', this outing is likely melancholic tones make sure to draw from all their records of that. as well as their first new materiSat 28 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, al in ages. €18-€22 Sun 22 Oct, Melkweg, FAI BABA 19:30, €25 Fai Baba is known to be spontaAPOCALYPTICA neous, unconventional and inThey’re one of the world’s most ventive, but he's definitely never popular cello ensembles, and been labelled as boring. No one they just so happen to be a knows what the Swiss psyheavy metal band as well: in cho-pop artist is going to do fact, they initially made a name next; yet, his genre-bending fufor themselves covering Metallision of avant-garde blues, disca songs. As well as some oldtorted folk and psychedelic school rock, look out for matericountry is enough to keep any al from their newest album, muso on their toes. 'Shadowmaker'. Mon 30 Oct, Sugarfactory, Mon 23 Oct, Royal Theatre 20:00, €10 Carré, 20:00, €42.50 Sun 15 Oct, Melkweg, 19:00, €16

GRAMATIK This Slovenian producer injects a variety of genres into his cool electro and hip-hop beats. In addition to his personal music, he grew up listening his older sister's cassette tapes, which inspired him to produce tracks with a jazzy and soulful edge. Today, the beatwizard has a decent fanbase and his own record label. Wed 25 Oct, Melkweg, 19:00. €17

CLASSICAL SINGING IN DE HALLEN Every first Sunday of the month, choirs perform in the central passage of De Hallen in Amsterdam. Sun 3 Sep & 1 Oct, De Hallen, 16:00, free

FREE LUNCHTIME CONCERT The Concertgebouw’s free lunchtime concerts are a muchloved fixture on the calendar of the town’s lovers of classical muDIABLO BLVD sic. Usually, these performances Belgian metal band Diablo Blvd take place on Wednesdays, but was formed in 2005 by guitarist please check the concert schedDave Hubrechts and vocalist ule as this occasionally changes. Alex Agnew – a popular comedi- Wednesdays, Royal Concertgean in the Benelux area. Their bouw, 12:30, free hectic blend of groove metal is LUNCHTIME CONCERT celebrated for its massive riffs, AT WESTERKERK melancholic melodies and pounding drums. Every Friday at lunchtime, a free Wed 25 Oct, Melkweg, organ recital takes place in Am19:00. €12.50 sterdam's famous Westerkerk.

Fridays, Westerkerk, 13:00, free SILENCE #6 – THOMAS ANKERSMIT The Oude Kerk’s ‘Silence’ series offers an early-morning moment of contemplation in the midst of the hectic city. Music is played as the sun rises behind the stainedglass windows. Today’s guest is the Berlin-based composer and performer Thomas Ankersmit, who performs an experimental improvisation – a reaction to the church’s acoustics – on a modular synthesizer. Fri 1 Sep, Oude Kerk, 08:00, €10 SUNDAY MORNING CONCERT: DÜSSELDORFER SYMPHONIKER & ALENA BAEVA The Concertgebouw opens the new season of its popular Sunday Morning Concert series with a visit from the Düsseldorfer Symphoniker. The orchestra is joined by violinist Alena Baeva for Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto and also performs the Romeo and Juliet Overture. Alexandre Bloch conducts. Sun 3 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €21-€27 NEW DUTCH ACADEMY: GRAND TOUR BAROQUE ROAD TRIP Playing works by Telemann, Händel and Vivaldi, conductor and viola player Simon Murphy and his New Dutch Academy present their new recording, 'Grand Tour Baroque Road Trip'. Sun 3 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €25-€45 JOSEPH PUGLIA & ASKO|SCHÖNBERG Solo violinist and concert master of Asko|Schönberg Joseph Puglia is much in demand. Tonight he and the ensemble open the new season at the Muziekgebouw with a travel through time, beginning with Bach’s famous 'Chaconne' and going all the way to a fiery violin concerto written for Puglia by Joey Roukens in 2015. Sat 9 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ, 20:15, €32 NATIONAL ORGAN DAY The Dutch National Organ dDay is organised at venues all over the country each September. The Amsterdam edition features a recital by advert

SMALL SOULS 12 OCT SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ & CLASSICAL Choice classical NETHERLANDS RADIO PHILHARMONIC & NOA WILDSCHUT Violinist Noa Wildschut made her Concertgebouw debut at the tender age of seven. Now 15, she performs the Violin Concerto No. 5 by fellow prodigy Mozart. Works by Haydn and JeanPhilippe Rameau are also on the programme. Sun 10 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €21-€27 RCO OPENING NIGHT This evening, marking the festive opening of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra’s new season, sees star soprano Diana Damrau sing much-loved Mozart arias. While the orchestra, conducted by Thomas Hengelbrock, perform DvoÐák’s cheerful Eighth Symphony, plus more by Mozart and other musical surprises. The programme begins with a buffet and after the concert, there is the opportunity to mingle with the musicians. Please note: Black tie event. Thur 14 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw,18:00, €130-€295 (drinks included) NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA –MAHLER’S TENTH SYMPHONY The orchestra performs Mahler’s unfinished, yet masterful Symphony no. 10, in the renowned completion by Deryck Cooke. Marc Albrecht conducts. Fri 15 & Mon 18 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23.50-€55 MENG SU: TRANSFORMATIONS The US-based Chinese classical guitarist Meng Su comes to the Concertgebouw to perform a varied programme, which includes ‘Sun Wukong’s Toccata (72 Transformations)’, written especially for her by Sergio Assad, and music by Astor Piazzolla. Sat 16 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €40 CLOSE-UP: HENK RUBINGH This edition of a series of ‘portrait concerts’ features the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra’s principal second violin, Henk Rubingh, who performs several suites: Stravinsky’s Suite Italienne, Prokofiev’s Cinderella Suite and two suites by the Austrian-American composer Erich Korngold, including ‘Much Ado about Nothing’. Tue 19 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €36 ALEXANDER MELNIKOV – DEBUSSY PRELUDES Known for daring feats, the Russian master pianist stays true to his reputation and performs all of Debussy’s preludes in one sitting – and on a Bechstein piano from the composer’s time, too. The evening promises to be a fascinating experience: a tour through a book full of stories. Wed 20 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €39.50

PRJCT AMSTERDAM – ever-popular 'Air'), plus two PERGOLESI’S STABAT MATER concertos for three harpsichords: The ensemble performs Pergo- BWV 1063 and BWV 1064. The latter has been called one of lesi’s heart-rending 'Stabat MaBach’s most impressive instruter', written on the composer’s deathbed. The piece is preceded mental compositions. Lars Ulrik Mortensen conducts. by Vivaldi’s glorious 'Nisi Dominus' and his 'Nulla in mundo Sun 15 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 15:00, €37 pax sincera'. With soprano Rosemary Joshua and counterIOANA CRISTINA GOICEA tenor Maarten Engeltjes. & SOPHIKO SIMSIVE Sun 1 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan An evening of Schubert, as the ’t IJ, 20:15, €39.50 Romanian violinist Ioana CrisLIZA FERSCHTMAN & tina Goicea plays his Rondo in RESIDENTIE ORKEST – B minor, and Georgian pianist MENDELSSOHN’S VIOLIN Sophiko Simsive follows with CONCERTO the Sonata in C minor. The programme also features works by The renowned violinist joins George Enescu and Haydn. the orchestra for a performance Sun 15 Oct, Royal Concertgeof Mendelssohn’s much-loved bouw, 14:30, €25-€36 concerto. Before the interval, CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM – SCHÜTZ’S SWAN SONG it’s Schubert’s Unfinished SymORCHESTRA OF THE The ensemble perform the swan song, or 'Schwanengesang', phony. EIGHTEENTH CENTURY by German baroque composer Heinrich Schütz. Written Sun 1 Oct, Royal Concertge& CAPELLA AMSTERDAM – when Schütz was in his 80s, the work is counted among one bouw, 11:00, €21-€27 LA CLEMENZA DI TITO of the highlights of the era and indeed of music history. It NIEUW ENSEMBLE consists of 11 motets – arranged according to the 22 letters A semi-staged performance of of the Hebrew alphabet – an exultant psalm setting and, as the opera Mozart wrote for the The ensemble dedicates an conclusion, a German Magnificat. Daniel Reuss conducts. coronation of Leopold II evening to looking into how Fri 22 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €32 as King of Bohemia, with tenor contemporary composers react Anders Dahlin as Titus, mezto current affairs and moods zosoprano Paula Murrihy as – from the rise of populism to Sesto, soprano Deirdre Angemillions of people becoming nent as Vitellia, soprano Ilse refugees as a result of war Eerens as Servilia, mezzoand terror. With world presoprano Rosanne van mieres of works by Luigi Nono, Sandwijk as Annio and Peter Schat, Louis baritone Henk Neven Andriessen and others. as Publio. Thur 5 Oct, Muziekgebouw Wed 18 Oct, Royal Concertaan ’t IJ, 20:15, €32 gebouw, 19:30, €34-€68 DUDOK QUARTET MATTHIAS GOERNE & AMSTERDAM MARKUS HINTERHÄUSER The quartet plays string quarBaritone Goerne is generally tets by Mozart and MendelsLES SIÈCLES & FLEMISH AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA seen as today’s most important sohn and works from Bach’s RADIO CHOIR – – SUNKEN GARDEN interpreter of German lieder, Well-Tempered Clavier and The BEETHOVEN’S FIFTH or songs. Previously having Art of Fugue. This semi-staged perforfocussed on Schubert, he is now Sun 8 Oct, Royal ConcertgeDa-da-da-DUM – Beethoven’s mance of Michel van der delving into Brahms. On the bouw, 14:15, €25-€39 Fifth has been described as Aa’s fourth opera, with a programme tonight: Vier ernste the ‘symphony of sympholibretto written by novelist NETHERLANDS Gesänge (Four serious songs, nies,’ and indeed, its opening David Mitchell, is the Dutch PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA op. 121), settings of poems by bars are so famous that they premiere of a revised version & JOSEF ŠPACEK Heinrich Heine and Lieder und have become almost a cliché. that was a previous star at the Gesänge (op. 32). Violinist Špacek joins the Still, when heard in concert Holland Festival. Featuring Wed 25 Oct, Muziekgebouw orchestra for Mendelssohn’s they never fail to leave an multimedia elements and aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €49 much-loved Violin Concerto; impact. The symphony is pre- incorporating new technoloGuillaume Connesson’s 'Trois ceded by Étienne Méhul’s ‘Les gies, the work has been deRALPH VAN RAAT – cités de Lovecraft' and Richard Amazones’ overture and the scribed as ‘the first genuine TAN DUN Strauss’ 'Don Juan' and Till EuMass in A flat major by Karl 21st-century opera.’ Pianist Van Raat plays lenspiegel’s 'Merry Pranks' will Xaver Kleinheinz. Sat 21 Oct, Royal Concertgeworks for solo piano by the also be performed. Sat 7 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €34-€39 Chinese composer Tan Dun, Sat 14 & Mon 16 Oct, Royal bouw, 14:15, €34-€39 who gained fame with his score Concertgebouw, 20:15, for 'Crouching Tiger, Hidden €23.50-€55 Dragon'. Van Raat has recorded PHILHARMONIC FRIDAYS SILBERSEE – POLO DE HAAS – CANTO the solo works with support HOMO INSTRUMENTALIS OSTINATO (SOLO) from Dun himself, and the Students of Amsterdam’s composer has written a new renowned music academy This multimedial performance Simeon ten Holt’s minimal work especially for him. On the play great orchestral by the Silbersee company will masterpiece, so beloved by works in this series, which has premiere at the Ruhrtriennale Dutch audiences, is remarkable programme: 'Eight Memories in Water Color', 'Traces', 'C-Athem rehearse a new work festival in Germany, only a few in the freedom it leaves the G-E', 'Dew', 'Fall', 'Drops' and every three weeks and perform days before tonight. Works performer – in terms of style, the Dutch premieres of it after only three rehearsals. performed are a new version of order and in the actual mode 'The Fire Sonata' and 'The Today, it’s Strauss’ Rosenkavalier Georges Aperghis’ 'Machinaof performing – making each Banquet Sonata'. suite. tions', Luigi Nono’s 'La fabbrica performance a new experience Sat 28 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan Fri 22 Sep, Conservatorium illuminata' and a new composifor the listener. Often played ’t IJ, 20:15, €32 van Amsterdam (Bernard tion by Yannis Kyriakides: 'Ode by two or four pianos, it can Haitinkzaal), 12:30, free to Man', part I and II. be heard tonight in a solo NETHERLANDS CHAMBER Thur 28 Sep, Muziekgebouw performance by renowned ORCHESTRA & DEJAN NETHERLANDS CHAMBER aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €32 Dutch pianist Polo de Haas. LAZI– BEETHOVEN’S CHOIR & AMSTERDAM Philip Glass’ 'Modern Love PIANO CONCERTO NO. 6 SINFONIETTA – FAURÉ LIDY BLIJDORP AND THE Waltz', Satie’s 'Vexations' and REQUIEM RAGAZZE QUARTET – The much-lauded Croatian De Haas’ own 'Improvisations THE BULLET AND THE LARK and Harmonies' are also on the pianist performs Beethoven’s The choir performs Fauré’s concerto, which was magnificent, peaceful and heartYoung cellist Lidy Blijdorp programme. originally written as a violin rending requiem, composed in teams up with the Ragazze Sat 14 Oct, Royal Concertconcerto but then reworked the years 1887 to 1890. Works Quartet for a varied programme gebouw, 14:15, €30 for solo piano by the by Pärt, Knut Nystedt, Bach and that includes a Bach cello solo NETHERLANDSBACH SOCIETY composer. Shostakovich are also on the and a cello concerto by BocSat 28 Oct, Royal Concer tprogramme. cherini. The ensemble plays Bach’s gebouw, 20:15, €32/€40 Tue 26 Sep, Royal ConcertgeThur 28 Sep, Amstelkerk, much-loved orchestral suites bouw, 20:15, €25-€66 20:15, €10 nos. 3 and 4 (no. 3 includes the ©MARCO BORGGREVE

Henk Verhoef, organist of the Nieuwe Kerk. Sat 9 Sep, Oosterkerk, 10:00, free

sep & oct 2017

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. every Fri from 15 Sep, CREA, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW IN ENGLISH The clue's in the title. Standup comedy from a selection of performers, all in English. every Thur, Comedy Café, 20:30, €10-€12.50 ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP UP THE VOLUME The political comedy team of Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but were they ready for President Donald Trump? Fri 15 & 29 Sep, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices AMSTERDAM MAGIC SHOW The Amsterdam Magic Show is the city's first and only theatre show combining worldclass magic and comedy. Taking place in an atmospheric cabaret theatre in the heart of the old city, the monthly show brings together some of the best international magic and comedy acts on the circuit. Tue 5 Sep & 3 Oct, Paleis van de Weemoed, various times, €25 VIS À VIS – MARE Vis à Vis' latest 'survival comedy' is 'Mare', in which rising sea levels – caused by global warming – have flooded the entire Earth. Expect slapstick and visual theatre on a grand scale, ensuring these performances are language no problem. Wed-Sun through Sep, Sun 1 Oct, Almeerderzand, www.visavis.nl BLACKADDER GOES FORTH The local theatre company turn their attention to the BBC hit comedy 'Blackadder Goes Forth' – its fourth and final series, set during WWI. Performed in English. Fri 29, Sat 30 Sep, Sun 1, Fri 6-Sun 8 Oct, Badhuistheater, 17:30/20:15, €12.50-€15 SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE A new weekly comedy show that tackles the art of longform improv. That makes for a more laidback experience than you'll usually find in Boom. So sit back and let these storytellers wander to weird and wonderful places. every Sun, Boom Chicago, 19:00/20:00, €15 ROB IT LIKE IT'S HOT! An engaging 70-minute celebration of the accomplishments of Boom Chicago actor Rob Andrist Plourde: sex and cycling, rock shows and

diabetes, weed smoking and weed smuggling, about social media, radio, TED Talks and beatboxing. Fri 1 & 22 Sep, Boom Chicago, 20:30, €15 MEZRAB STORYTELLING NIGHT The original Mezrab Story telling Night where anyone gets to claim the stage and anything goes: the true, the mythical, the fabulous, the comedic. Fri 15 Sep & 20 Oct, Mezrab, 20:00, free JULIUS CAESAR Brassy in more ways than one, this outdoor presentation of Shakespeare's 'Julius Caesar' bubbles with musicality. Keep in mind that the primary language is Dutch. Fri 1, Sat 2, Tue 5, Wed 6 Sep, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 21:00 THE WORLD’S BIGGEST SWAN LAKE Tchaikovsky’s most famous ballet is bigger than ever before in this collaborative piece from the Shanghai Ballet and top choreographer Derek Deane. 48 swans take the place of the original 16, amplifying the ballet’s ethereal appeal. Various dates and times until Sun 10 Sep, Royal Theater Carré, €22-€68 MEDEA In this modernised version by Toneelgroep Amsterdam, directed by the Australian Simon Stone, Medea is a successful doctor who tries to save her marriage and her career. Performed in Dutch with English surtitles. Thur 7 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €21-€33.50 BEST OF BOOM After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom'. Sep & Oct, Boom Chicago, various times JIMEOIN The Irish comedian began his comedy career way back in 1990 and has made plenty of television appearances ever since. Sun 3 Sep, Boom Chicago, 20:30, €25-€35 NATIONAL DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival is a celebration of Dutch and Flemish theatre, presenting a selection of last season’s best productions and the top of the 2017/2018 crop. There are a number of performances with English surtitles or which are otherwise suitable for nonDutch speakers. 7-17 Sep, various locations, www.tf.nl/en RICKY GERVAIS The British comedy actor and writer, though now more familiar as a Hollywood star, has rediscovered the pleasure of

Choice theatre

AMSTERDAM FRINGE FESTIVAL The festival for young, fresh ’n’ new theatre takes over Amsterdam’s stages, clubs, streets, boats and living rooms once again. It showcases more than 80 performances, around half of which are suitable for non-Dutch speakers – be they in English or without dialogue. Staging a huge array of productions by cutting-edge home-grown and international producers and artists, the eccentricity that is the Fringe comes alive in bizarre, brooding and brilliant productions, including live art, theatre, musical theatre, comedy and dance. 7-17 Sep, various locations, www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

LA FORZA DEL DESTINO Verdi’s dark tragedy 'La Forza del Destino' is a family conflict with a fatal ending, set against a backdrop of war. The story revolves around an elopement gone wrong, and a woman trapped between the man she loves and his accidental crime: killing her father. The performance will be brought to life with conductor Michele Mariotti, director Christof Loy and soprano Eva-Maria Westbroek. Sat 9 Sep-Sun 1 Oct, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 19:00, €22-€171

heading back out on the road. His 'Humanity' tour has been picking up strong reviews on its travels. Fri 8 & Sat 9 Sep, AFAS Live, 20:00, €38.50-€49.50 A LOVE SUPREME The performance is set against the legendary John Coltrane song of the same name, and the dance endeavours to mimic the jazz quartet’s movement between complexity and simplicity through both composition and improvisation. Tue 12 & Wed 13 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €12.50-€30 GALA 2017 The Dutch National Ballet’s season-opening performance, Gala 2017, presents over 200 dancers in an exclusive surprise programme. The immensely popular event attracts

GRAND FINALE 'Grand Finale' is an apocalyptic performance created by Israeli choreographer Hofesh Shechter. Wed 20 & Thur 21 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€40 NEW ADVENTURES Known for their modern and exciting performances, the talented dancers of Scapino Ballet Rotterdam present the visions of three new-generation choreographers. Sat 23 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€35

STAGE

MATA HARI Sometimes, real people's lives and stories become so famous as to render them near-mythical. So it happened with Mata Hari, exotic dancer in Paris and World War I spy. As befits a legend, she is the focus of this large-scale production by the Dutch National Ballet, choreographed by artistic director and choreographer Ted Brandsen to music by Tarik O’Regan, one of today’s leading British composers. Sat 14 Oct-Fri 3 Nov, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 20:15 (Sun 14:00), €20-€86 ballet lovers and celebrities alike and includes several dance performances followed by a black-tie dance party. Tue 12 Sep, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 19:30, €60-€125 CIRQUE PARDI! BORDERLAND All the fun of the circus and more, as this France-based troupe set up at the Amsterdamse Bostheater. 'Get set for the sparks (and glitter) to fly. 13-24 Sep, Amsterdamse Bos, www.cirquepardi.com TITANIC Israeli-born choreographer Liat Waysbort endeavours to make disturbing social themes tangible through her warm and communicative performances. Sat 16 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €10-€25

SIDE A: SPLIT INTO ONE 'Side A: Split into One' is the creation of Romanian-born Edward Clug, known for his internationally acclaimed 'Radio & Juliet' (2005) Thur 28 Sep-Sun 1 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30/15:00, €22.50-€42.50 THRON The acclaimed minimalistic choreography, a 90-minute performance where dancers remain in a tight geometric pattern built into the floor with minimal variation, requires immense discipline and stamina and has an unpredictable outcome. Tue 3 & Wed 4 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€32.50 CHRIS ROCK Chris Rock made a name for himself as a loud comic unafraid to say anything. It's been nine years since his last tour, though he's kept himself busy in front of and behind the camera ever since. Sun 8 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €49-€99 KLEINE ZIELEN Renowned director Ivo van Hove’s third and final installation of his Couperus trilogy. 'Kleine Zielen' ('Little Souls') is a dramatic romance, which follows the story and tragic downturns of the Dutch-Indian family Van Lowe in a decadent Hague. Performed in Dutch with English surtitles on this date. Thur 12 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €21-€33.50 SIDE B: ADRIFT 'Side B: Adrift' is the work of Argentinean-born Gabriela Carrizo and French-born Franck Chartier, the choreographers behind the Brussels collective Peeping Tom. Wed 18 & Thur 19 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €22.50-€45 RULE OF THREE 'Rule of Three' is a dance performance that falls somewhere between a concert and a collection of short stories. The performance emphasises contradictions, at time swelling up in an accumulation of lights, rhythm and movement, and at times fading into relative stillness. Tue 24 & Wed 25 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €10-€27.50

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS,

1. A FRAGILE MEMBRANE, AN ILLUSIVE SCREEN

David Haines’ solo exhibit consists of a two-channel video work, wall drawings and a new series of drawings on paper. Main topic is in this exhibition is our online identity and the illusion of it; the difference between hyper-real and abstract. GALLERY

GERT JAN VAN ROOIJ, COURTESY OF UPSTREAM

CHICKEN LEGS, 2017. PENCIL ON PAPER, PHOTO BY

DAVID HAINES, STILL LIFE WITH IPAD, CUTOUT AND

EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT AMSTERDAMART.COM.

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4 SEPTEMBER – 14 OCTOBER Upstream Gallery Kloveniersburgwal 95

PHILIP AKKERMAN, PAINTINGS, DENNIS KOOT –

GRAPHIC FRAMES, COURTESY OF TORCH

JOHANNES SCHWARTZ, I’M SITTING ON TOP OF THE

WORLD, 2017, COURTESY OF ANNET GELINK GALLERY

2. PHILIP AKKERMAN

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Unapologetic Dutch painter Philip Akkerman has had a near monomaniacal focus on self-portrait for the better part of his artistic career. For this exhibition he collaborated with graphic designer Dennis Koot, who designed special murals to accompany his work. Amsterdam brewery Oedipus created a limited edition ‘bock’ beer featuring drawings and ﬂavors matching his style. 5 SEPTEMBER – 14 OCTOBER TORCH Lauriergracht 94

3. BLUE, TURNING GREY OVER YOU

For this exhibition Johannes Schwartz was inspired by Piet Mondriaan and his black and white photo albums, a remarkable fact as color is so essential to the works of Mondriaan.

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9 SEPTEMBER - 21 OCTOBER Annet Gelink Gallery Laurierstraat 187-189

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9 SEPTEMBER – 7 OCTOBER Galery Juliette Jongma Gerard Doustraat 128a

Beauty, fashion and women are topics that have a secure position within the works of renowned Dutch artist Marliz Frenken. Prepare yourself to see a lot of female ﬁgures and their beautiful shapes. The works on view are selected from the oeuvre of the artist between 1983 – 2017. A. GALLERY

MARLIZ FRENKEN, 1989, COURTESY OF ORNIS

5. MARLIZ FRENKEN

09 SEPTEMBER – 07 OCTOBER Ornis A Gallery Hazenstraat 1

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With The Beguiled, Soﬁa Coppola wanted to make a more female-oriented version of the eponymous 1971 Clint Eastwood thriller. Sadly, the ladies at the Confederate boarding house only seem to be able to talk about one thing: the ruggedly handsome Union soldier (Colin Farrell) who’s convalescing in one of their beds. Nicole Kidman, Kirsten Dunst, Elle Fanning co-star. Directed by Soﬁa Coppola Release 7 September

SYRIAN NEW WAVES

We’ve all seen the endless repetition of shocking images of a war-torn Syria on news outlets and social media. Syrian New Waves offers a broader perspective on Syrian reality, by combining documentaries of contemporary Syrian ﬁlmmakers with thematically and esthetical similar works by masters of cinema like Jean-Luc Godard and Bernardo Bertolucci. 8 -10 SEPTEMBER EYE eyeﬁlm.nl

SAFARI

Austrian director Ulrich Seidl and partner in crime screenwriter Veronika Franz are great at creating characters that get under your skin (Hundstage, Paradise Trilogy), but few will make your blood boil as effectively as the leads in their clinically detached documentary Safari, about bored wealthy tourists playing Great White Hunter in Africa. Directed by Ulrich Seidl Release 14 September

DETROIT

PAROOL FILM FEST

After a successful ﬁrst edition last year, the Parool Film Fest is back for seconds, offering a sneak peek into the best ﬁlms that are yet to come to a Dutch cinema near you, like festival opener Borg/ McEnroe, the taut Robert Patterson thriller Good Time and The Killing of a Sacred Deer, Yorgos Lanthimos’ dark and brooding follow-up to The Lobster. 4 – 8 OCTOBER Filmhallen paff.amsterdam

FRAUDE FILM FESTIVAL

Corruption and fraud are as old as civilization. No wonder the programmers of the Fraud Film Festival are spoilt for choice! This fourth edition will highlight corruption in the health care and in the food industries. But, as the documentary Crossing the Line makes abundantly clear, it can happen to any of us. 6 OCTOBER EYE & A Lab Amsterdam fraudeﬁlmfestival.nl

MUSIC & DISNEY @ PATHÉ

Looking for something different from the regular ﬁlm fare? Search no more! This month go to your nearest (Pathé) theatre for screenings of four Disney classics (The Jungle Book, 101 Dalmatians, Pocahontas and Wall-E) or sit down for some hardcore music loving by Slipknot (September 6), David Gilmour (September 13) and Black Sabbath (September 28).

pathe.nl

If you thought it wouldn’t be possible to get even more angry about social inequality and racism in America, think again. In her ﬁrst feature ﬁlm since Zero Dark Thirty, director Kathryn Bigelow trains her laser-sharp focus on the 1967 Detroit Rebellion, where a black security guard (Star Wars’ John Boyega) is at the wrong place at the wrong time.

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION SEP & OCT 2017

SEP & OCT 2017

With a ﬁerce expression, utterly female appearance and a vomiting pace, artist Nora Turato forcefully spits out slices of daily conversations, social media posts, literature and other feeds of personal interest or frustration, that merge into an impulsive and passionate soundscape within her performances.

THE BEGUILED

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

NORA TURATO, COURTESY OF JULIETTE JONGMA

4. OPENING NIGHT

FILM FAVOURITES

Directed by Kathryn Bigelow Release 28 September

CAMERA JAPAN

This twelfth edition of the biggest Japanese ﬁlm festival of the Benelux will take a closer look at Kyushu, the most south-westerly of the four main islands of Japan and the spot where the Dutch held a lone trading post for over 250 years.

CONCEPT STORES • JEANS • DUTCH DINING LOCAL LIQUORS • SEAFOOD • & MORE

J E W E L R Y & WAT C H E S . V I S I T G A S S A N . C O M

GASSAN Diamonds | GASSAN Dam S quare | GASSAN B outique | GASSAN S chiphol

Amag29_SEPT_OCT_COVER.indd 1 Gassan in A-mag Gassan Sept-okt.indd 1

29 SEPTEMBER– 1 OCTOBER Kriterion camerajapan.nl

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7-8-2017 17:32:13

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sep & oct 2017

FESTIVALS MUSEUM MARKET This design market on Amsterdam’s Museumplein offers fashion, accessories, textiles, homewares, jewellery, stationery and much more, all by local designers. 17 Sep & 15 Oct, Museumplein, www.museummarket.nl

SUMMER BREEZE LATIN FESTIVAL The Summer Breeze Latin Festival is a celebration of all things sensual salsa. It promises dance workshops, dance acts and lots of live music. 10 Sep, Vondelpark Open Air Theatre, www.openluchttheater.nl

ARTZUID Artzuid is a four-month event putting amazing contemporary sculptures from all over the world on display in Amsterdam Zuid. until 17 Sep, various locations, www.artzuid.nl

NEU NOW FESTIVAL The most promising talents from art academies across Europe have been selected for this year’s Neu Now festival. 14-17 Sep, Westergasfabriek, www.neunow.eu

VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Steeped in musical and theatrical history, every weekend in summer Amsterdam’s Vondelpark presents a programme packed with dance, cabaret, jazz, children's theatre, standup comedy and music. until 10 Sep, Vondelpark Open Air Theatre, www. openluchttheater.nl

KLASSIEK OP HET AMSTELVELD This free outdoor festival presents a whole weekend of classical music for the entire family. 15-17 Sep, Amstelveld, www. klassiekophetamstelveld.nl

LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS As well as its sport and recreation facilities, the dazzling nature of Amsterdamse Bos is home to a picturesque openair theatre that reopens for the summer season. until 17 Sep, Amsterdamse Bostheater, www.liveatamsterdamsebos.nl AMSTERDAM COMIC CON With so many traditionally geeky pass times becoming increasingly more accepted, there's no better time to head to Comic Con. Fans of superhero films, comics, cosplay, gaming, anime and sci-fi convene at RAI Amsterdam to celebrate all that's colourful, cool, geeky, wild, weird and wonderful. 2 & 3 Sep, RAI Amsterdam, amsterdamcomiccon.com NATIONAL DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival is a celebration of Dutch and Flemish theatre, presenting a selection of last season’s best productions and the top of the 2017/2018 crop. 7-17 Sep, various locations, www.tf.nl/en AMSTERDAM MAKER FESTIVAL The ultimate hands-on event offering a large, open-plan workplace for craftspeople to show off their innovative work and designs. 9 & 10 Sep, Marineterrein Amsterdam, www.amsterdammakerfestival.nl AMSTERDAM HERITAGE DAYS The Amsterdam Heritage Days annually explore and celebrate the city’s rich history by casting open the doors of important buildings, monuments and private homes to the public, all free of charge. 9 & 10 Sep, various locations, www.iamsterdam. com/heritagedays

24H ZUIDOOST 24H Zuidoost (south east) is an opportunity to discover and experience all that this vibrant district has to offer. 16 Sep, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com/24hrs INDIESTADT Indiestadt is the brainchild of Amsterdam's Paradiso, showcasing some of the bands signed up for Hamburg's Reeperbahn Festival. 20-24 Sep, Paradiso/Tolhuistuin, www.paradiso.nl UNSEEN AMSTERDAM Showcasing fresh international photography, Unseen Amsterdam focuses primarily on new and undiscovered photography talent and unseen work by established photographers. 22-24 Sep, Westergasfabriek, www.unseenamsterdam.com AMBACHT IN BEELD FESTIVAL From textiles and fashion to pottery, and from haute cuisine to instrument making, a dazzling range of crafts is represented here. You can watch, you can learn, and you can try it out for yourself. 22-24 Sep, De Hallen, www. ambachtinbeeldfestival.nl AFROVIBES FESTIVAL 2017: FRAGILE FREEDOM This African cultural festival returns to examine the state of modern, innovative theatre, dance, music and film from Africa. 28 Sep-6 Oct, various locations, www.afrovibes.nl MUSIC IN THE SEVEN BRIDGES QUARTER This atmospheric festival brings a collection of romantic chamber music to the beautiful ‘Seven Bridges’ neighbourhood of Amsterdam’s world-famous Canal District. 1-8 Oct, various locations, www.zevenbruggenfestival.nl PAROOL FILM FEST Amsterdam newspaper 'Het Parool' presents its own film festival every autumn in

Choice festivals

AMSTERDAM FRINGE FESTIVAL The festival for young, fresh ’n’ new theatre takes over Amsterdam’s stages, clubs, streets, boats and living rooms once again. Staging a huge array of productions by cutting-edge home-grown and international producers and artists, the eccentricity that is the Fringe comes alive in bizarre, brooding and brilliant productions, including live art, theatre, musical theatre, comedy and dance. Check out the programme online or head to the Festival Centre (De Brakke Grond) during the fest to find fresh inspiration, catch free previews and buy tickets. 7-17 Sep, various locations, amsterdamfringefestival.nl Amsterdam's De FilmHallen. Look out for top (international) selections of drama, animations, documentaries and more, including a host of Dutch premieres. 4-8 Oct, De FilmHallen, paff. amsterdam ‘I AM NOT A TOURIST’ EXPAT FAIR Whether you’re new to the Netherlands, recently arrived or about to make the big move, this annual fair has got everything you could need. The event caters to an evergrowing international and expatriate community. 8 Oct, Beurs van Berlage, www.expatica.com/iamnotatourist READ MY WORLD An international literature festival that challenges Dutch and international authors to explore the boundaries between literature and journalism, focusing on a new region each year. 'Black USA' form the core of this edition, with special performances and presentations by authors, bloggers, poets, musicians and other global talents. 12-14 Oct, Tolhuistuin, www.readmyworld.nl AWAKENINGS ADE SPECIAL Amsterdam's biggest techno festival goes all-out for ADE this year. Whatever your techno poison, these five nights (and days) promise thrilling beats and daring sets from the world's top DJs and electronic maestros. Look out for the likes of Jeff Mills, Adam Beyer,

PINT BOKBIERFESTIVAL The largest of its kind in the Netherlands, this beer festival descends on the city centre every year for three full days of beery delight. With over 50 types of glorious 'bok' beer on tap it's a haven for connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike. Be sure to look beyond the bigger brands and discover a host of independent brewers from the Netherlands and beyond. In many ways it's back to basics, you get a glass upon entry and this is yours for the entire visit, so take good care of it. And be sure to take good care of yourself on the way home too! 27-29 Oct, Beurs van Berlage, www.pintbbf.nl

Paul Kalkbrenner, Joris Voorn and Joseph Capriati. 18-22 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.awakenings.com CAMERA JAPAN The largest multidisciplinary Japanese cultural festival in the Benelux. Although primarily a film festival showcasing Japanese cinema (typically screened with English subtitles), Camera Japan throws in a heady mix of art, music, dance, fashion and food. 29 Sep-1 Oct, Kriterion, www.camerajapan.nl ANNUAL DUTCH ART FAIR Nearly 150 Dutch artists and 50 international artists will participate in this year’s edition, offering a wide variety of contemporary art – from figurative to abstract and from traditional to progressive. 13-15 Oct, World Fashion Centre, www.adaf.nl

world's biggest club festival and Europe's leading electronic music conference. The festival never fails to bring in the crowds with worldfamous established names on the line-up alongside an enormous list of rising stars spinning tunes from a suitably diverse range of genres. 18-22 Oct, various locations, amsterdam-dance-event.nl AMF AMSTERDAM Now a cornerstone of Amsterdam Dance Event, AMF Amsterdam invites impressive names from the upper echelons of the electronic music world to party in style. Stars include the likes of David Guetta, Don Diablo, Lucas & Steve, and many more. 21 Oct, Amsterdam ArenA, www.amf-festival.com CINEKID FESTIVAL This annual film, television and new media festival for children is attended by more than 50,000 kids and (international) guests every year. Alongside film, documentaries, cartoons, television productions and cross-media productions, there's also a large number of interactive installations and workshops, so fear not: no one will turn into a couch potato here! 21-27 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.cinekid.nl AMSTERDAM HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL An all-night horror movie marathon, makeup workshops and kids' events for the little horrors: the Amsterdam Halloween Festival offers diehards and newcomers four frightful days of bloody good fun! And don't miss the annual costume party on 28 October. This year’s 'TOYLAND' isn't child's play – you'll never look at your childhood toys the same way again. 27-31 Oct, various locations, halloweenamsterdam.com TRIBAL ART FAIR From ancient tribal masks to artefacts from Oceania and Indonesia, the Tribal Art Fair exhibits the most interesting treasures from 20 renowned art dealers. Come along and see the unique collection, take a guided tour or learn more about the heritage in a lecture. 27-29 Oct, De Duif, www. tribalartfair.nl

KLIK AMSTERDAM ANIMATION FESTIVAL While this renowned animation film festival has made a name for itself by appealing to big kids (AKA, adults), younger audiences are never forgotten. Celebrate 10 years with the KLIK! crew in 2017, with loads of special screenings, workshops and activities for kids. 17-22 Oct, EYE Filmmuseum, www.klikamsterdam.nl

LONDON CALLING A favourite of music lovers in Amsterdam, taking place twice per year in Paradiso, London Calling showcases a collection of international bands who're tipped to make it big, along with a few more who're making a comeback: pop, rock, electronic and beyond. 27 & 28 Oct, Paradiso, www. londoncalling.nl

AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT The definitive gateway to the international electronic music scene and five days of extraordinary parties, ADE is the

24H NOORD Discover new treats north of the River IJ during 24H Noord. 28 Oct, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com/24hrs

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING/NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING

SHELTER A rather typical Shelter night out with banging abstract techno made for the floor. DJs Perc and Adam X. Fri 22 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, €16, €10 before midnight

BRAINWASH Escape’s big room house night isn’t just about the music; with VJ’s, gogo dancers and performances it is also a show. DJ WEITER FESTIVAL Raymundo & friends. Every Sat, Escape, 22:00-05:00, How about not being humble and €16 naming a festival after myself, Oliver Weiter must have thought. SHELTER True, bad publicity is better than Fasten your seatbelts for this no publicity... Expect a druggy, heavy, heavy night of techno ravey set of nine hours by the with Speedy J, the man behind man himself, and more beats the mega classic tunes ‘Three O’ by German veterans Der Dritte Three’ and ‘Pull Over’ headlining Raum (live), Aron Friedman B2B and Albert van Abbe warming Eric de Man, Andre Galuzzi and up. Nico Morano. Fri 1 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, Sat 23 Sept, Thuishaven, 13:00€17, €10 before midnight 23:00, €25

Choice clubbing

WAT DE FOK OUWE 2.0 ZEEZOUT FESTIVAL MARKTKANTINE It’s hard not to like the ever-smiling face of gabba music: DJ Indian summer vibes on the DJs Paul Woodford and De Dano. The release of last year’s biography Wat de Fok Ouwe beach with international techno Sluwe Vos play mindless house – focusing on Dano’s crazy life of sex, drugs and rave muand house DJs providing the and techno in a back-to-back set sic – was celebrated with a big party, and we’ve heard good soundtrack. As we can’t imagine with support coming from Lucky stories… So here’s the follow up. Expect tonight’s DJs to play Hamburg based industrial/wave/ Done Gone. Get all comfy on the electro hard hitter Helena Hauff dancefloor. BYO popcorn. many sub-genres of dance music: DJ Dano, Chosen Few, Robplaying at Cafe del Mar, it’ll be Sat 23 Sept, Marktkantine, in ‘Jaydee’ Albers, Paul Jay, Fierce Ruling Diva, Crazy Shaun interesting to see how she tackles 23:00-07:00, €12.50 and many more. the beach vibe. Berghain style Sat 30 Sept, Westerunie, 22:00-07:00, €20 SHELTER techno DJ DVS1 seems another odd one, but again, a nice A very exciting line-up, and much experiment. more soulful and mellow than Outlier on the bill is the outrayour average night in this club geous Syrian vocalist Omar north of the river. Chicagoan Souleyman. Rahaan specialises in the type of Sat 2 Sept, Blijburg aan Zee, sounds you’d hear when discothe12:00-23:00, €39 ques first came up, that is disco, soul and adjacent genres, while LOTGENOTEN veteran house producer Mike Expect a dirty mix of electro, Dunn (also a Chicago resident) house and techno with Rotterprefers his club music a little dam’s master of raw sleazy dance more heavy. music David Vunk headlining. Sat 23 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, Sat 2 Sept, Claire, 23:00-07:00, €16, €10 before midnight €10 DJ SHADOW SHELTER When Joshua David (aka DJ Born in Istanbul, tonight’s Shadow) released his masterheadliner Onur Özer’s career has piece Endtroducing over twenty BANGFACE CLONE mostly happened in Germany so years ago, the traditional music Easily one of the silliest BritRotterdam’s boutique elecfar, where his minimal-ish strand press was shocked to find out it ish rave concepts comes to tronic label Clone once really of techno fits in naturally. was build up solely by samples. Amsterdam for the very first operated from a little shop Sat 2 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, Tonight’s your chance to find out time. Musically, things are set in a shabby street, sharing its €16, €10 before midnight what else lives on the Californian turntablist’s shelves. Better be to get a little extreme: Alec space with a hairdresser and 50 HURTZ ready. Empire (Atari Teenage Riot) a vintage store. The business Dubstep is no longer hip, so take Tue 26 Sept, Paradiso, 19:00and Aaron Spectre (Venetian has grown but the concept this lucky opportunity and head 22:30, €20 Snares) both excel in playing remains the same: selling a to Leidseplein if you’re a fan of brutal break beats, Luke Vib- high amount of ace vinyl reSHELTER the genre and like your wobbles ert (aka Wagon Christ) never leases in low quantities. Preshard. DJs Badphaze, Da Force, Pumping club music for dedifails to combine the funny ent at this showcase are label Infekt, Minzo and Obey. cated dance floor animals with Fri 8 Sept, Melkweg, 23:30New York’s Anthony Parasole and the funky in his sets and boss Serge, Britain’s bassy 06:00, €20 (Dekmantel Records), fellow the same goes for Ceephax techno producer Blawan, New Yorker Function and local Acid Crew (live). Also playing veteran italo producer Alden STERRENSTOF FESTIVAL favourite Carlos Valdes working are Remarc, Otto Von SchiTyrell and local Rotterdam A brand new festival with a conthe decks. rach and Freek Fabricius. producer Paul Du Lac. cept that’s still rather vague, but Fri 29 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, Fri 13 Oct, Melkweg, 23:00Fri 20 Oct, Shelter, 23:00more spiritual than usual. People €16, €10 before midnight 07:00, €20 07:30, €25 who like to use their third eye a ODESZA (LIVE) lot are definitely welcome, but the same goes for folks interested This may well be your last chance in blending their hedonistic to see American bass/EDM pro- affair, but it’s not a bad record so long series of banging events. The we’ll shut up now. line-up includes a fair amount and cosmic self. Still vague? Ok, ducer duo Odesza in a relatively Fri 13 Oct, Paradiso, 19:00, €34 of live techno: Underground sorry… DJs and live music will be intimate setting like Paradiso’s Resistance founder Robert Hood, present, that’s for sure! main hall, as their sound is slicker IN TRANCE WE TRUST Bulgarian house producer KiNK Sun 10 Sept, Pllek, 12:00-01:00, than slick and almost ready for and Lady Gaga-associate Lady Be quick... Trance is about to be €20 the charts. An exciting up & Starlight are all set to perform. picked up by hipsters, so enjoy comer. SHELTER - LAYLA Wed 18 Oct, Paradiso, 22:00it while you can. This will be Wed 4 Oct, Paradiso, 19:3008:00, €42.50 an incredible night out if you’re A soirée (or should we say ‘nuit’?) 22:30, €23 into ravin’ and wavin’ with Paul of solely French electronic music AWAKENINGS X ADAM BEYLEFTFIELD (LIVE) Oakenfold, the granddad of the with veteran techno producer ER PRESENT DRUMCODE genre headlining. Terrence Fixmer being the The dance duo decides to cash in Drumcode label boss Adam most well-known DJ on the on the nostalgia hype. 22 years Wed 18 Oct, Westerunie/Transformatorhuis, 21:00-07:00, €38 Beyer presents artists from his programme. Others playing are: after the release of their classic roster. DJs Marco Faraone, Pig Chafik Chennouf, Kangding Ray, album Leftism, Paul Daley and AWAKENINGS X LEN FAKI & Dan, Dense & Pika, Monika Mondkopf and Von Grall. Neil Barnes play it in full again PRESENTS FIGURE NACHT Kruse, Ilario Alicante and of Sat 16 Sept, Shelter, 23:00-07:00, during this European tour. A The first in yet another 5-day course the master himself. €16, €10 before midnight slightly unoriginal and cheesy

Thu 19 Oct, Gashouder, 22:0008:00, €42.50 RUSH HOUR ADE A showcase by one of the sickest little labels in the world with appearances by Chicago house legend Chez Damier, Japanese vintage house producer Soichi Terada (live) and Rush Hour’s own superstar DJ Antal. Thu 19 Oct, Shelter, 23:00-08:00, €25 AWAKENINGS X PAUL KALKBRENNER PRESENT BACK TO THE FUTURE It’s a bit of an odd mixed bag, the line-up for this Friday afternoon part of the Awakenings marathon: German techno superstar Paul Kalkbrenner, acid house pioneer DJ Pierre, Romanian producer and Kalkbrenner’s wife Simina Grigoriu. Fri 20 Oct, Gashouder, 16:0022:00, €42.50 HYTE ADE X FRRC With industrial surroundings plus Ricardo Villalobos and Seth Troxler headlining, you can’t really go wrong with this one. Fri 20 Oct, Elementenstraat, 22:00-08:00, €43.50 AWAKENINGS X JORIS VOORN & FRIENDS Amsterdam-based superstar DJ Joris Voorn and his famous friends Sven Väth, Slam, Kölsch and Nastia build a party for fans of druggy techno. Fri 20 Oct, Gashouder, 23:0008:00, €42.50 EURABIA Middle Eastern-flavoured experimental electronic dance music with Acid Arab from France playing a live set, and Dutch duo Cairo Liberation Front DJ-ing. Fri 20 Oct, Paradiso, 23:3005:00, €17 AWAKENINGS BY DAY Our favourite ADE Awakenings party of the year features sets by London’s punishing techno jock Paula Temple, Chicago’s brutal master of pumping house and techno DJ Rush, Amsterdam’s soulful dreamer Dimitri, Danny Tenaglia and more. Sat 21 Oct, Gashouder, 12:0022:00, €42.50 AWAKENINGS X JOSEPH CAPRIATI INVITES Techno spun by Joseph Capriati, Wighnomy Brothers, Shlomo and Dubfire. Sat 21 Oct, Gashouder, 23:3008:00, €42.50 AWAKENINGS X KLOCKWORKS PRESENTS PHOTON Ben Klock and Marcel Dettmann, both residents of Berlin’s famous club Berghain, headline the heavy bill of Awakenings’ final night. Sat 21 Oct, Gashouder, 19:0006:30, €42.50 MARKTKANTINE Dance on your very last ADE legs to the sound of the eccentric British disco master who goes under the name of DJ Harvey. Sun 22 Oct, Marktkantine, 21:00-04:00, €20

sep & oct 2017

SPORTS EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, Amsterdam’s skating extravaganza. Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own. Check the website for route updates and news each week. every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com

GAY & LESBIAN money for charity. The start area is the Marine Etablissement (tickets required). You can also find music and entertainment around the Jonas Daniël Meijerplein. 3 Sep, city centre, amsterdamcityswim.nl

More than just a solitary 10mile race, the Dam tot Dam encompasses walking and cycling, as well as a 5-mile night run on the Saturday evening. 16 & 17 Sep, Amsterdam & Zandaam, www.damloop.nl

CHALLENGE ALMEREAMSTERDAM With two training clubs and a regional Top Sport centre, Almere has a solid reputation as the home of Dutch triathlon. But it’s not only the professionals that get a look in

MUSEUMPLEIN POLO AMSTERDAM Museumplein gets turned over to horses and riders during this special sporting weekend. As well as the international polo matches taking place on all three days, look out for special showcases and performances, including Anky van Grunsven, a threetime Olympic champion in dressage. All sessions are topped up with music, entertainment and plenty of food and drink. 30 Sep-1 Oct, Museumplein, www.museumpleinpoloamsterdam.com

Highlight sport

TCS AMSTERDAM MARATHON When it comes to running events, you could say Amsterdam has a personal best: the TCS Amsterdam Marathon. The event draws elite runners and amateurs from around the world, who’ll all take on a beautiful city route this year. The start and finish at the Olympic Stadium, the passage through the city neighbourhoods, and the stretches along the Amstel and through the Vondelpark are all highlights, of course. There's also a half marathon, business run and routes for youths, inviting everyone to get involved. 15 Oct, Olympic Stadium (and citywide), www.tcsamsterdammarathon.nl AJAX They're Amsterdam's top football club, known around the world for their distinctive red-and-white shirt and for their legacy of Dutch and European victories. The new Dutch football season kicked off on 11 August, with upcoming home matches against PEC Zwolle, Vitesse and Sparta, as well as possible Europa League fixtures. Sep & Oct, Amsterdam ArenA, www.ajax.nl

at this event, as it caters to a range of ages and experience levels. The weekend kicks off with a Junior and Senior Challenge, while there’s also a Family Relay, the Half Distance Challenge and the Tri-Together event (with one swimmer, one cyclist and one runner). 9 Sep, Almere, www.challenge-almere.com

FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run. 8 Sep & 13 Oct, Olympic Stadium, fridaynightrun.nl

GERRIE KNETEMANN CLASSIC This cyclo-tourist trip in honour of Dutch cycling legend Gerrie Knetemann takes place every September and offers a tour for all experiences. The routes of 25, 45, 75, 110 and 160 km all begin and end at the Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam, exploring the beautiful landscape in and around the city. 10 Sep, Olympic Stadium, gerrieknetemannclassic.nl

AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM The canal cruise boats make way for more than 2,500 brave swimmers (and 500 kids) as the Amsterdam City Swim comes to town. Head out and support the swimmers as they swim the 2,000-metre course to raise

DAM TOT DAMLOOP The Dam tot Dam Weekend sprints into town every September, bringing with it not only thousands of sporting enthusiasts but also numerous live performances to urge on the participants and keep the crowds entertained.

LES MILLS LIVE Fitness meets rave at this touring international initiative. If you love the energy of a live concert, this event takes it to another level with a festival of fitness. 6 & 7 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.lesmillslive.nl GRACHTENRACE AMSTERDAM This annual Amsterdam canal race for small (wide body) rowing boats features more than 140 teams this year. The race course is nearly 25 km and its route through central Amsterdam – with all its low bridges and bends to navigate around – presents a challenge for even the most hardened rowers and helmsmen. The race starts near the Olympic Stadium before heading into and through the city centre, then loops back towards the stadium, making it easy for spectators to follow the action on foot or by bike. 7 Oct, Olympic Stadium, www.grachtenrace.com AMSTERDAM CITY WALK The Amsterdam City Walk is organised like a marathon, while leaving participants enough time to take in the beauty of the historic city centre and its monuments. Walkers can choose from multiple route lengths, meaning there's a route for just about every fitness type (12, 18, 21, 27 and 33 km). 14 Oct, Olympic Stadium (then citywide), www.amsterdamcitywalk.nl MIDDENMEERLOOP This Ronje Mokum running event departs from the AV’23 athletics grounds and heads out through rural and urban terrain passing through Diemen and the Amsterdam Science Park. It features both a 5 km and 10 km event. 29 Oct, AV'23, www.middenmeerloop.nl

REGULAR EVENTS GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month. Club Lite, garboforwomen.nl GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie. The reception – with a welcome drink – usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathé website for movie and time. pathe.nl/event/gaynight HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Horsemen and Knights is the big willy gay play and cruise party, taking place in the afternoon every third Sunday of the month. Dress code: naked or underwear. Doors open 15:00-16:00 Eagle, horsemen.nl MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas. Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only. NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15 SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is 'No Towel Night' (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00. Every Tue, Sauna NZ, saunanieuwezijds.nl (Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam. The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted. Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited. Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, 22:00-05:00, €10

SPELLBOUND Queer Underground Dance Party with Performances, DJs, VJs, Video, Chill Out Techno, Electro, House, Disco, Dub....etc.. Sat 9 Sept, OCCII spellbound-amsterdam.nl MEGA FLIKKER Here we go again! MEGA FLIKKER is the place where people, music and art meet. FLIKKER is for fags, faguettes, lesbiques, freaks, friends and family, with live shows, disco, house and techno. 30 Sept, De Marktkantine LADZ The gay dance party for lads, scallies, gabbers, sneaker- and sportswear boys. DJs play the harder styles of dance music. Sat 30 Sep, Club Church, 22:00-5:00 LEATHER PRIDE Beside the main party 'Damage', there are special fetish parties at the leather and cruise bars, like Cuckoo's Nest, Web, Eagle, Dirty Dicks, Warehouse and in cruise Club Church. 26-29 Oct, leatherpride.nl

ADDRESSES Club Air Amstelstraat 16 www.clubair.nl Akhnaton Nieuwezijdskolk 25-27 akhnaton.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eagle Warmoesstraat 90 theeagleamsterdam.com Club Lite Jan van Galenstraat 24 clublite.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 marktkantine.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.n OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 occii.org Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl

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ONE-OFF EVENTS FUN HOUSE Popular gay dance parties in a old industrial factory hall. The music is a little more vocal than the Rapido parties. Expect dancers in crazy costumes. Sat 2, 16 Sep, 14 Oct WesterUnie, clubrapido.com

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

KIDS & FAMILY Highlight kids VENUES KERMIS (FUNFAIR) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed great fun at any age. 20-24 Sep, Mercatorplein / 5-9 Oct, Javaplantsoen / 6-15 Oct, Buiksloot / 6-15 Oct, Amstelpark / 19-29 Oct, Dam Square / 20-29 Oct, Osdorp HET FIEPTHEATER A celebration of Fiep Westendorp, the Dutch illustrator renowned for much-loved creations such as 'Jip en Janneke'. This small theatre in the attic of the Jewish Historical Museum's Children's Museum will bring some of her characters to life via animation, film and music. until Dec, Jewish Historical Museum, www.100jaarﬁepwestendorp.nl POPPENKAST OP DE DAM Something of an Amsterdam institution, this puppet show sets up on Dam Square every Sunday for multiple shows (13:00, 14:00, 15:00 and 16:00). Performances are in Dutch, but given the young target audience, the visuals in these familiar stories have as much impact as any words spoken. every Sun, Dam Square, www.poppenkastopdedam.nl VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Steeped in musical and theatrical history, every weekend in summer Amsterdam’s famous Vondelpark presents a programme packed with dance, cabaret, jazz, children's theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. until 10 Sep, Vondelpark Open Air Theatre, www.openluchttheater.nl OUT IN NATURE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS As summer fades and autumn takes over, the Amsterdamse Bos is the ideal spot to entertain and educate kids about the nature on our doorstep. Look out for regular guided walks with wardens, animal labs, boat tours and more. Sep & Oct, Amsterdamse Bos, www.amsterdamsebos.nl KINDERFILMZOMER If the weather isn't behaving, keep the kids entertained in the cinema this summer. Every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, Rialto is screening a variety of movies aimed at audiences under six years. Think the likes of 'Finding Nemo' and 'Fireman Sam' (but in Dutch). There's also crafting and colouring in the cinema's cafe. until 3 Sep, Rialto, rialtoﬁlm.nl HET ZOMERCIRCUS FESTIVAL Circus Elleboog promises a day of fun-filled entertainment for kids from 5 to 14 years. Of course, the best thing about

SCIENCE WEEKEND Whether you’re into biology, chemistry or physics, there’s plenty to do and see in Amsterdam during the Science Weekend. There’s special programming at the University of Amsterdam and Amsterdam Science Park, learn from the medical experts of the GGD, while NEMO Science Museum will be welcoming all ages, and much more! 7 & 8 Oct, various locations, www.hetweekendvandewetenschap.nl this local troupe is that it isn't just about sitting back to watch... kids get to try out a whole range of circus skills and other fun games. On the three bigger stages you can also check out skilled jugglers, acrobats and aerial artists. 2 Sep, Bijlmerpark, www. elleboog.nl NOORDERPARKFESTIVAL Creative haven Amsterdam Noord comes into its own at this festival, uniting a host of cultural institutions from the neighbourhood to take part in a free, funfilled day, with a blend of circus acts, street theatre, music and visual arts. 3 Sep, Noorderpark (and other locations in Noord), www. noorderpark.nl XRACE AMSTERDAM A sporting event with a difference, XRACE is entirely a family affair, with one parent and one child in each team. Together they'll take on a mix of physical (sporty) and mental challenges (puzzles and memory games). It's mainly aimed at youths aged 6-14, but there's also a mini race for the under 5s. 9 Sep, Amsterdamse Bos, www.xracenl.nl AMSTERDAM HERITAGE DAYS The Amsterdam Heritage Days annually explore and celebrate the city’s rich history by casting open the doors of important buildings, monuments and private homes to the public, all free of charge. The theme of the 2017 edition is ‘Farmers, citizens and countrymen’. Look out for a cultural programme in the evening, family-friendly events and the opportunity to speak with the volunteers and experts who continue to breathe life into the monuments.

9 & 10 Sep, various locations, www.iamsterdam. com/heritagedays CIRQUE PARDI! BORDERLAND All the fun of the circus and more, as this France-based troupe set up at the Amsterdamse Bostheater. 'Borderland' may be one of their most chaotic shows, with all the performers busy, pretty much at all times. Get set for the sparks (and glitter) to fly. 13-24 Sep, Amsterdamse Bos, www.cirquepardi.com DE HEKS EN DE SINAASAPPELPRINS A charming marionette theatre with performances for children aged 4 to 10 (sometimes to 12). Puppets bring magical tales like 'Rumpelstiltskin', 'Pinocchio' and 'The Magic Violin' to life. Productions are in Dutch but the music and visuals ensure that language is no barrier. various dates Sep & Oct, Het Nederlands Marionettentheater, www.nederlandsmarionettentheater.nl CINEKID FESTIVAL This annual film, television and new media festival for children is attended by more than 50,000 kids and (international) guests every year. Alongside film, documentaries, cartoons, television productions and cross-media productions, there's also a large number of interactive installations and workshops, so fear not: no one will turn into a couch potato here! In amongst the mix there are loads of premieres, classic films and beautiful shorts, too. But do keep in mind that the selection of screenings is quite international and where subtitles are shown, they are typically in Dutch. 21-27 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.cinekid.nl

ADRESSES EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600 arcam.nl Beurs van Berlage Damrak 243 beursvanberlage.com Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 tassenmuseum.nl Cobra Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen cobra-museum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61A verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 eyeﬁlm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 foam.org Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 jhm.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 hermitage.nl Museum Het Schip Oostzaanstraat 45 hetschip.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen jvdtogt.nl National Holocaust Museum Plantage Middenlaan 27 jck.nl De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square nieuwekerk.nl Oude Kerk Oudekerksplein 23 oudekerk.nl Outsider Art Museum Neerlandiaplein 1 outsiderartmuseum.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 rijksmuseum.nl National Maritime Museum Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Special Collections bijzonderecollecties.uva.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 tropenmuseum.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 vangoghmuseum.nl Museum van Loon Keizersgracht 672 museumvanloon.nl STAGE AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 boomchicago.nl Comedy Cafe 89, IJdok comedycafe.nl Compagnietheater Kloveniersburgwal 50 compagnietheater.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 crea.uva.nl

DeLaMar Theater Marnixstraat 402 delamar.nl De Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 meervaart.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Paleis van de Weemoed Oudezijds Voorburgwal 15 paleis-van-de-weemoed.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 theaterbellevue.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 toomler.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 ziggodome.nl MUSIC AFAS Live ArenA Boulevard 590 afaslive.nl Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 bitterzoet.com Cromhouthuis Herengracht 366 cromhouthuis.nl De Duif Prinsengracht 756 deduif.net English Reformed Church Begijnhof 48 ercadam.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 muziekgebouw.nl Oosterkerk Kleine Wittenburgerstraat 1 oosterkerk-amsterdam.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 paradiso.nl Pianola Museum Westerstraat 106 pianola.nl Q Factory Atlantisplein 1 q-factory-amsterdam.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 carre.nl Schellingwouderkerk Wijkergouw 6 stadsherstel.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 tolhuistuin.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y ziggodome.nl Het Zonnehuis Zonneplein 30 zonnehuis-amsterdam.nl

PART IV VISITOR INFORMATION

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VISITOR INFORMATION

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM STORE A store for visitors and residents! With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open Mon-Wed: 08:00-19:00, Thu-Sat: 08:00-20:00, Sun: 09:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily, check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 calendar days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

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Tickets (starting from â&#x201A;Ź 7.50) are available at various hotels, the GVB Tickets & Info kiosk opposite Central Station, I amsterdam Visitors Centres, AKO (bookstores) and GWK (currency exchange offices). Check gvb.nl/day

PART III ADVERTORIAL

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You’ll be surprised at how much of Amsterdam and the surrounding region you can see with your I amsterdam City Card. Get out of town ZAANSE SCHANS With its traditional houses, windmills, warehouses and workshops, the historic village of Zaanse Schans offers a preserved glimpse of what it was like to live in the Netherlands in the 18th and 19th centuries, when the Zaan region was one of Europe’s first industrial areas. The Zaans Museum tells the story of daily life in the Zaan region over the centuries.

BANK & RAU, 'BRUTAL VITALITY', INSTALLATIE, 2015 - HEDEN, COBRA MUSEUM VOOR MODERNE KUNST. FOTO: PETER TIJHUIS

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FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card:

COBRA MUSEUM AMSTELVEEN BRUTAL VITALITY: COBRA IN THE HANDS OF BANK & RAU Until 31 December

In Brutal Vitality, convention-defying artists Bank & Rau convey the story of CoBrA in an entirely new and unique way. With handcrafted installations made especially for the exhibition, they explore alternative perspectives on the museum's collection and the history of the CoBrA movement. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

HORTUS BOTANICUS AMSTERDAM Hortus Botanicus, founded in 1638 as an herb garden for medicinal purposes, is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. It became the repository of the floral treasures brought back by Dutch explorers during the Golden Age (including King Willem III’s extensive collection), where their tantalising exotic beauties were not only admired but also studied by scientists. Today Hortus is home to some 6,000 plant species exhibited in its gardens and magnificent greenhouses. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • A free canal cruise and more 24hrs €57 / 48hrs €67 / 72hrs €77 / 96hrs €87

The I amsterdam City Card is available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see iamsterdam.com/citycard.

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TSAR PETER HOUSE One of the oldest wooden houses in the Netherlands (1632), this modest labourer’s house is the one Tsar Peter the Great stayed in when he visited Zaandam in 1697. Travelling incognito, the Russian ruler was interested in learning about Dutch shipbuilding techniques in order to modernise his homeland. A beautiful dome was added to protect this small museum which features countless memories of the Tsar’s stay, as well as the visit of many other dignitaries who have written or carved their names in the windows and wooden walls. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport ticket valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for 1, 2 or 3 days and is valid on any of the routes listed on the public transport guide of the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store in Amsterdam, and ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. iamsterdam.com/citycard

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beyond amsterdam

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BEYOND

‘NATURE'S GREAT MASTERPIECE, AN ELEPHANT; THE ONLY HARMLESS GREAT THING.'

A’DAM

BRITISH AUTHOR AND POET JOHN DONNE

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

ELEPHANT PARADE This wonderful travelling exhibition/social enterprise was created by artists and celebrities, with each Elephant Parade statue a unique art piece. The lifesize, baby elephant statues are exhibited in international cities to raise awareness on elephant conservation, and they have spent the summer here with us in the town of Laren. Limited edition, handcrafted replicas and a select range of products are created from the exhibition elephants, with 20% of profits donated to elephant welfare and conservation projects. In addition, the ten statues created especially for the Laren exhibit will be sold at auction at Christie’s. UNTIL 1 OCTOBER Singer Laren Oude Drift 1, Laren elephantparade.com

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, take the train to Hilversum where you can catch a bus to Laren. Travel time: about an hour

DUTCH DESIGN WEEK Holland is a cradle of creativity and home to some of the most innovative designers in the world. Dutch Design Week is the annual event where these designers, their latest masterpieces, business, knowledge institutions and many curious visitors come together. For nine days, 300 events (including lectures, workshops and conferences) are held in over 60 locations which together attract well over 150,000 visitors. The festivities end with the Dutch Design Awards. 21-29 OCTOBER Various locations in Eindhoven ddw.nl

GETTING THERE: Take a direct train from Amsterdam Central to Eindhoven. Travel time: 80 minutes

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

OLD HOLLAND With its countless windmills, churches and old-fashioned farmhouses, stepping out into Old Holland can feel like being in a Golden Age painting. Traditional towns hark back to times of craftsmanship, showcasing the traditional skills the region was famous for: shipbuilding, fishing and cheese making. Of course you can use the fabulous Dutch transportation network (or a rental car!) to visit the region, but for a chance to discover it all with minimum effort, there’s a Hop On Hop Off tour that will put you in the trusted hands of a savvy guide. The tours start at the A’DAM Lookout in Noord, then take you around the beautiful green countryside and through historical villages such as Broek in Waterland, Monnickendam, Volendam, Edam and Zaanse Schans. You’ll stop to admire windmills, discover the traditional cheese-making processes, stroll harbours and hear all about the rich history of the area. HOP ON HOP OFF HOLLAND 'Cheese, Windmills and Dutch Villages’ Tour hoponhopoffholland.com

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ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

SHANNEN HOMMES, 24, ART THERAPIST FROM GROENINGEN ‘Go shopping in the Negen Straatjes (the Nine Streets) – it's less busy than the big commercial streets in the centre and it's got so many lovely independent shops.’

APHITSAEA LANSINK, 45, SELF-EMPLOYED, FROM NEW ZEALAND ‘Do a canal cruise! There is nothing like seeing the city from the water. All the old houses, and the great stories. It's beautiful and fun.’

HICHAM OUARBYA, 39, OPTICIAN FROM MOROCCO ‘It's a bit of a tourist trap but I really recommend the Bulldog Pub. The atmosphere is a lot of fun, and they serve some powerful drinks! It's just great for a good night out partying.’

ZHENGQIU CHEN AND HIS GIRLFRIEND, 25, PIANO STUDENT FROM CHINA

ELENA IVANOVA, 28, ACCOUNT MANAGER FROM RUSSIA

‘It's an obvious one, but do brave the lines of the Rijksmuseum, because it's worth it. Such beautiful art, such a rich history.’

‘I love Pure Markt; it's a really great market that is hosted in a different Amsterdam park every weekend, where you'll always find something fun and new. A lot of local and eco-conscious companies, super nice people, and delicious foods and drinks and galore.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Het Zomerpaleis: Saskia Franken, Martijn Blokland deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Wendy Byrne contributors Tracy Brown, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Barbara van den Berg/SaltyStock, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Imke Walenberg, Christiaan de Wit listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Sarah Gehrke, Karl Baz & Rhys Elliott), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Greetje de Graaff en Bjorn van der Zwaard/SaltyStock