AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE
MAY & JUNE 2016 EU PRESIDENCY EDITION
The card that offers more than you can visit (but you can try)
iamsterdam.com/citycard
AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE
EU PRESIDENCY LETTER FROM THE MAYOR
CONTENTS P.04 YOU ARE HERE
The heart of the EU Presidency: the Marineterrein
P.08 MARINETERREIN AREA
Explore the neighbourhood's best restaurants, museums, bars, cafes and unique spots
P.12 100 YEARS OF AMSTERDAM SCHOOL
Dive into the inspiring history of this stunning architectural movement as the city celebrates a century of Amsterdam School design
P.17 A CITY OF OPENNESS
Discover the people who make Amsterdam uniquely open and diverse with the 180 Amsterdammers project
P.20 WHAT'S ON
A treasure trove of top tips: exhibitions, events, festivals and hotspots to explore during your stay in Amsterdam FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE DUTCH EU PRESIDENCY: iamsterdam.com/europe, europebypeople.nl (official cultural programme), eu2016.amsterdam
The Netherlands holds the presidency of the Council of the European Union (EU) for the first six months of 2016. Amsterdam is serving as the host for many of activities this role brings. It's a terrific honour and responsibility, certainly in view of the topics demanding attention, which must not only be discussed at national and international levels of government, but are equally important at the local level. That is why we don’t wish to limit ourselves as a host to just creating a welcoming atmosphere in Amsterdam for policymakers and government officials. We are a city of individual citizens, whose voices also need to be heard during the Council of the EU Presidency. On 21 April, for instance, residents engaged in conversation with the mayors of European capitals during a public debate. And those mayors were here for a reason. I’m very proud to have hosted the fifth EU Capitals Mayors’ Meeting in the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. During this event, I was able to speak with my fellow mayors about the significance of cities for Europe. Amsterdam already has a fantastic working relationship with Paris, Berlin and Athens, built on respect and reciprocity. I hope that all the mayors can look back at their visit with satisfaction, and that you’ll have a similar feeling about our city when it’s time to go home. This magazine will hopefully inspire you to enjoy Amsterdam’s welcoming atmosphere. Mr. E.E. van der Laan Mayor of Amsterdam
published for the City of Amsterdam by Amsterdam Marketing editor-in-chief & writer Angel Trinidad project manager Sebas van der Sangen designer Zlatka Siljdedic coordinator Bart van Oosterhout cover photo Eddo Hartmann
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EU PRESIDENCY
marineterrein
YOU ARE HERE
The Marineterrein in Amsterdam is the sparkling centre of the Dutch presidency of the Council of the EU for the first half of 2016. Located close to Central Station, this former naval dockyard is now a dynamic social and technological hub. HISTORY The historical naval dock on Kattenburg Island has existed for over 350 years. In 1655, during the height of the Dutch Golden Age, the site was a large shipyard. Many ships were built there for the naval protection of the Dutch East India Company’s fleet. One of the few surviving 17th-century buildings in the area is the historic archway; hundreds of labourers, carpenters, mast-makers and painters walked underneath it daily to or from their work. A bell hung above the gate, there to signal the beginning of the workday. This bell can now be found in the Maritime Museum. Meanwhile, the Maritime Museum used to be a central storage warehouse for the admiralty’s fleet; cannons, sails, flags and ship equipment were stored here. The imposing building was designed by Daniel Stalpaert, the same architect who designed the City Hall at Dam Square, now the Royal Palace.
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A COMMUNICATIONS, SUSTAINABILITY AND TECHNOLOGY HUB Located right next to the beautiful Maritime Museum, the area is now home to several innovative companies and organisations in the fields of media, sustainability, technology and social development, amongst others. marineterrein.nl
SMART CITY EXPERIENCE LAB Learn more about Amsterdam Smart City’s projects and innovations, aimed at creating greener, more intelligent cities. A Smart ID Card offers information on the projects and answers key questions. There will also be a series of lectures and workshops. Open on Tuesdays 12 pm – 5 pm & Fridays 9 am – 4 pm amsterdamsmartcity.com
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Q&A We had a quick chat with Liesbeth Jansen, project director of Marineterrein Amsterdam, about what makes this innovative corner of the city special: TELL US ABOUT THE MARINETERREIN The Marineterrein was established more than 350 years ago on Kattenburg island, which was created in 1655. It was here that the Admiralty of Amsterdam, the precursor to the navy, constructed warships to protect the fleet of the Dutch East India Company. When the shipyard was closed in 1915, the area was used by the Royal Netherlands Navy and the Ministry of Defence for recruitment and selection procedures, training programmes and logistics operations. Over the coming years, the Ministry of Defence will gradually vacate large parts of the area, allowing more businesses and puclic functions to take over this part of the city centre.
WHAT MAKES THE AREA SO SPECIAL? The area has always been separate from the city, but is slowly being opened up to the public. The quay offers a unique view of the city centre. It is quiet, peaceful and green – seemingly far removed from the hustle and bustle of the inner city. It is the perfect place to work on solutions for a more sustainable city that also embraces its past. Nowhere else will you find 14 hectares of land with impressive development opportunities just a stone's throw from Amsterdam Central railway station. Luckily, the state and municipal authorities chose to work together to slowly develop this unique area based on the values of innovation, connection and focus.
HOW DOES IT FEEL HAVING THE EU PRESIDENCY HERE? During the informal meetings, we noticed heightened security measures, such as
checkpoints, passes and a strict no-visitors policy. We worked with the local tenants to make the necessary preparations. We are also excited about FabCity on Java-eiland, a neighbourhood close to Marineterrein.
ANY FAVOURITE ADDRESSES? Pension Homeland hotel is one of our favourites, and we're looking forward to De Scheepskameel restaurant, operated by the managers of Rijsel restaurant, which opens in May near the bridge over the Dijksgracht canal. During the summer months, NEMO's rooftop terrace offers beautiful views of the city and the IJ. And it doesn't get more traditional than CafĂŠ Scharrebier on Kadijksplein square. Mediamatic, on the other side of the bridge, has a lovely greenhouse terrace and serves exciting beers and fish caught in the canals. We also recommend Restaurant Choux on De Ruyterkade 128.
WHAT FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS CAN WE LOOK FORWARD TO? The Ministry of Defence will have completed its relocation by July 2018, at which time the area will be largely open to the public. There will be room for lots of new tenants and new activities. There will be a dynamic redevelopment of this area during this period of transition. This spring, we invited local residents, researchers, artists and pioneers to brainstorm with us about how the Marineterrein can contribute to enhancing the development and international allure of Amsterdam. marineterrein.nl
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what's new
EU PRESIDENCY
WHAT’S NEW? (in town) All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.
‘IT WAS AWFUL AND WONDERFUL.’
BREAKING BAD STAR BRYAN CRANSTON RECALLS A FORMATIVE EXPERIENCE IN AMSTERDAM’S RED LIGHT DISTRICT
text Angel Trinidad
An interactive experience with archaeological finds from the intriguing Dutch East India Company ship The Amsterdam (1749) brings stories about the European trade network during this period of history to life. There are objects originating from all over Europe and historical documents revealing the names and addresses of the Amsterdam merchants who supplied these items to the Company. Poortgebouw Marineterrein, Gebouw F, Kattenburgerstraat 5 (Voorwerf) amsterdamdok.com
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TOP 5 to do
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THE AMSTERDAM
© FRANTIŠEK KUPKA, GALLIEN’S GIRL, 1909–10, OIL ON CANVAS, 42 ½ × 38 ¾ IN., PRAGUE, NÁRODNÍ GALLERY.
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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more!
1 MOCO MUSEUM Amsterdam’s newest museum, the Modern Contemporary (Moco) Museum, presents the 'rock stars of art' smack in the middle of Museumplein. Moco exhibits proven pioneers in modern and contemporary art, starting with Banksy and Warhol. Warhol: Royal Until 3 July Banksy: Laugh Now Until 4 Sept Moco Museum mocomuseum.com
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© HUGO THOMASSEN
2 OPEN GARDEN DAYS
4 EASY VIRTUE AT VAN GOGH MUSEUM
A wonderful opportunity to discover Amsterdam’s private gardens, stroll along the city’s green oases and remarkable garden houses. Peek inside the luxurious canal houses, enjoy some fine art and pretend to be a nobleman for the weekend. 17-19 June Various locations opengardendays.nl
Discover the world of prostitution through the eyes of Vincent Van Gogh and many other well-known 19th-century artists, including Edgar Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Pablo Picasso. Until 19 June Van Gogh Museum vangoghmuseum.nl
3 FABCITY CAMPUS This self-sufficient and hyper-connected look at the city foretells our future way of living. The green campus will present about 50 pavilions, installations and prototypes. Until 26 June Kop van Java-eiland europebypeople.nl
5 AMSTERDAM SCHOOL AT STEDELIJK In celebration of 100 years of the Amsterdam School architecture and design movement, the Stedelijk museum’s exhibition ’Living in the Amsterdam School' showcases its stunning furniture collection from the era. Until 28 August Stedelijk Museum stedelijk.nl
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‘AMSTERDAM. EMOTIONAL CHOCOLATE. #RIDERWATCH.’
© GOD'S ENTERTAINMENT
BASSIST MAT OSMAN DISCOVERS AMSTERDAM-BORN BRAND TONY’S CHOCOLONELY ON SUEDE’S RECENT TOUR
HOLLAND FESTIVAL The Holland Festival is the leading international performingarts festival in the Netherlands since 1947, offering an exciting mix of performances from all corners of the world. In line with the EU Presidency, international artists present a series of performances focusing on current European issues. The festival’s opening performance by Estonian directors Ene-Liis Semper and Tiit Ojasoo, Die Stunde da wir nichts voneinander wußten, shows the diversity and tensions of modern Europe, while the film Ash and Money focuses on the phenomenon of political populism. 4-26 June hollandfestival.nl
REDERIJ LAMPEDUSA Rederij Lampedusa has been sailing two refugee boats in Dutch waters since summer 2015. These boats were given to them by the Italian authorities, and now serve as a striking reminder of the refugee situation. A joyful yet poignant look at sailing – for fun and for survival. Mediamatic Dijksgracht 6 rederijlampedusa.nl
FORUM ON EUROPEAN CULTURE What are the cultural values that unite us? How can art and culture offer creative solutions to problems that seem to be splitting us apart? This biannual forum explores the strength, impact and value of art and culture in Europe. This year’s edition, entitled “Re:Creating Europe”, is curated by Yoeri Albrecht (De Balie) and Cees de Graaff (DutchCulture), with contributions by architect Rem Koolhaas (the Netherlands), film director Céline Sciamma (France), theatre director Johan Simons (the Netherlands), historian Philipp Blom (Germany) and political scientist Chantal Mouffe (Belgium), among many others. 1-3 June De Balie (and other locations) Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10 cultureforum.eu
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marineterrein area
EU PRESIDENCY
Marineterrein and surroundings text Angel Trinidad map Gemma Pauwels/SaltyStock
HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM
The National Maritime Museum presents a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is The Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. Closed during onsite meetings hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl
FABCITY CAMPUS FabCity functions as a living lab for alternative design, development and production – finding ecological and innovative solutions for cities and everyday life. Participants create new social, economical and logistical services, products and systems in this temporary, self-sustaining city. europebypeople.nl/fabcity-2/
PENSION HOMELAND AND EU VISITORS’ CENTRE
The former officers’ quarters has a beautiful living room, billiards room and restaurant that is open to the public. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the stunning mid-20th-century-designed restaurant. Plus, they serve specialty beer, made at Homeland’s own brewery. The newly opened Visitors’ Centre for the Dutch EU Presidency, also at Pension Homeland, showcases the history and operation of the EU via photography and video exhibits and interactive applications. pensionhomeland.com
AMSTERDAM LIBRARY
The top floor of the multilevel public library houses the charming La Place, a restaurant and cafe with fantastic views of the city. oba.nl
CAFE ORLOFF
A cosy cafe and bar located at Kadijksplein 11 – really close to the Maritime Museum and Europe building – serving delicious coffee and snacks. facebook.com/CafeOrloffAmsterdam
MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN `T IJ & BIMHUIS Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ is Holland’s most important concert hall for contemporary and
classical music (with a twist). The main auditorium has wonderful acoustics fit for intimate chamber music as well as large orchestras. The Bimhuis is housed in a striking black box, part of the Muziekgebouw complex, and a veteran venue for jazz and improvisational music concerts. muziekgebouw.nl & bimhuis.com
LLOYD HOTEL AND CULTURAL EMBASSY
With interiors designed by Dutch architects MDRDV and internationally renowned Dutch designers Richard Hutten, Claudy Jongstra and Joep Van Lieshout, Lloyd Hotel offers unique rooms ranging from 1 to 5 stars. Set in a beautiful 1920s building, this hip hotel and cultural embassy offers an airy cafe/restaurant with a bar and terrace, plus an art library and regular cultural events. lloydhotel.com
NEMO
A science center and museum housed in an imposing Renzo Piano building, the museum presents five floors of fun hands-on science exhibitions. Don’t forget to spend some time on the fifth floor, with its wide open space offering amazing views of the city! e-nemo.nl
ARTIS ZOO & MICROPIA
Natura Artis Magistra is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and one of the oldest in mainland Europe. Admire tropical fish in the aquarium, travel through time at the planetarium or get up close and personal with the free-roaming lemurs. Also located in the complex is Micropia, the world’s first museum dedicated to microbes and microorganisms. artis.nl, micropia.nl
BROUWERIJ 'T IJ
Located in an old bathhouse, and right next to the ultimate landmark – a huge windmill! – Brouwerij 't IJ is the best-known brewery in Amsterdam. Offering high-quality beers since 1985, the bar is open every day of the year (including holidays), and offers tours on weekends. brouwerijhetij.nl
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CAFE RESTAURANT DE PLANTAGE
The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-century converted conservatory, which was a former meeting facility for the members of the Artis Zoo. And of course, the dishes are impressive, too. caferestaurantdeplantage.nl
RESTAURANT FIFTEEN
Top chef Jamie Oliver’s industrial-style restaurant offers delicious Modern European food, served and prepared by disadvantaged youngsters, trained by Oliver. fifteen.nl
HANNEKES BOOM
This shack-style, waterfront cafe is a cosy and alternative place to enjoy drinks and listen to live music. Hang back, relax and watch the boats through the Oosterdok waters. hannekesboom.nl
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on stage
EUROPE BY PEOPLE On Stage
‘Europe by People’ is the official arts and culture programme of the EU Presidency 2016, commissioned by the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs. One of its projects is ‘On Stage’, an exciting programme of performances, projects and exhibitions with a (new) European focus. text Angel Trinidad
® GIANINNA URMENETA OTTIKER
‘On Stage’ is a dazzling programme of theme-based performances, projects and exhibitions on several stages throughout the city. Through poetic words, images, dance and music, contemporary and future views of Europe come alive in inspiring and thought-provoking performances, reaching a peak in May and June. We highlight the events we're most looking forward to: 8-12 May The Europe Now international theatre festival brings five European capital cities together to tell the stories of the ‘new Europe’, reflecting on its changing demography and polycultural reality. 20 May Theatre-maker Lucas De Man embarked on a meaningful journey trying to 'find' Europe. He traveled to seven different countries and interviewed creators and
experts on the contemporaries of Hieronymus Bosch. 2-5 June 'Nobody Home' is a touching, humorous and critical portrait of a young generation of theatre makers from Iran, Syria and Bosnia who fled to the stage in search of a home. 4 June 'Majnun & Leyla' is an enthralling, world-famous love story in which longing drives the protagonist insane. The story is known and loved from New Delhi to Rabat and has inspired thousands of writers, musicians and artists through the centuries. World Opera Lab created a new interpretation, performed in the open air by artists and musicians from different backgrounds, showcasing a dazzling mix of Turkish traditional music, European baroque opera and mystic Arabic and Andalusian songs. For the complete programme: europebypeople.nl/on-stage
Frans de Vries is the director of cultural events agency De Vries Producties and is the steward of ‘Europe by People: On Stage’. What can we expect from this programme, and what inspires him? WHAT IS THE MAIN MESSAGE OF ‘ON STAGE’? European society is changing rapidly. To many artists and thinkers, this time of transition we are living in is an important source of inspiration. ‘Europe by People: On Stage’ will present a selection of artists, dancers, designers, theatre writers, choreographers and curators who actively respond to current social issues in their work. Explicitly or implicitly, they present their vision of Europe in their performances, projects and exhibitions. They give us a better understanding of Europe as well as new insights into the role of art in defining the European identity. ‘On Stage’ lets us discover how the new generation of artists deal with social issues such as migration, privacy, sustainability, urban development, social innovation and international conflicts.
CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THE PROGRAMMES? ‘On Stage’ has been set up as a multi-tiered programme. There are performances, projects, exhibitions and debates in Amsterdam as well as further afield. The programme includes performances and projects that have emerged from the bootcamp as
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Q&A
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well as programmes proposed by external arts organisations, selected because of their connection with the themes explored by Europe by People. Some of these projects and programmes will receive financial backing from Europe by People, others will receive support in terms of complementary programming.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU ABOUT EUROPE? Europe has an infinite set of languages, colours, sounds, religions, art, rituals and habits, but for the average person from Asia, for example, we are all the same. The shared feeling for European history and art forms touches me deeply, but mostly I get inspired by young European makers and creatives who co-create, giving a whole new meaning to ‘Europe’.
HOW DOES THE PERFORMING ARTS AFFECT TODAY’S SOCIETY? The arts, especially performing arts, take you into a world of imagination and are able to give a broader view of the 'reality' around you. They require you to recreate this reality. For the full programme, please check: europebypeople.nl
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EU PRESIDENCY
amsterdam school
100 years of Amsterdam School
The Amsterdam School of architecture and design celebrates its 100th birthday with a major exhibition at the Stedelijk Museum.
ŠERIK & PETRA HESMERG
text Catalina Iorga
13 ‘AMSTERDAM SCHOOL OBJECTS ARE DEEPLY ROOTED IN THE CULTURE OF THEIR TIME AND HAVE A STRONG SENSE OF PLACE, REFLECTING AMSTERDAM’S MULTICULTURAL SOCIETY’
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ixteen years ago, on a rare sunny day, Alice Roegholt, Director of Museum Het Schip (The Ship), was cycling through the Spaarndammerbuurt when she suddenly came across a massive shipshaped building, its unusually wavy red bricks perfectly framed by clear blue skies. One side of the building harboured a post-office sign, and Roegholt immediately went in. ‘It was the most unexpected room; my jaw dropped,’ she recalls. She had been exploring the city to find a location for a bottom-up initiative, a small museum dedicated to illuminating the bond between the architectural style called Amsterdam School and beautiful social housing for the city’s working-class residents. Luckily, the Dutch post office had already decided to abandon this location masterminded by Michel de Klerk, the Amsterdam School’s most prominent architect and creator of ‘working-class palaces’, as Roegholt likes to put it. The room could thus be restored to its full 1920s glory, and in 2001, marking the centenary of the 1901 Dutch Housing Act (that had enabled better housing conditions and affordable prices for poorer citizens), the old post office reopened as Museum Het Schip.
ART WITH A SOCIAL MISSION Aesthetically, Roegholt describes the Amsterdam School as ‘an expressionist style full of humour and small details just waiting to be discovered’. And socially aware to boot. ‘Back then, the Socialist city authorities were looking to craft a better way of living for workers, who should also see art on a daily basis, not just factories. These architects were going all-out to help solve a pressing societal problem,’ she explains. It wasn’t just buildings that De Klerk and his contemporaries were responsible for, but a complete artistic
experience also comprised of furniture and decorative objects. ‘You can think of Amsterdam School furniture as miniature buildings, and the buildings as scaled-up furniture, as both these types of structures contain similar elements,’ Roegholt adds. Unlike Art Deco, a style recognisable the world over, Amsterdam School objects are deeply rooted in the culture of their time and have a stronger sense of place, reflecting Amsterdam’s multicultural society by featuring motifs ranging from Indonesian through Japanese to Swedish.
100TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION You can admire such furniture at the 'Living in the Amsterdam School' exhibition, which will be on display until August in the Stedelijk Museum. The show features more than 300 dressers, cabinets, lampshades, ceramics, clocks and everything in between from architects and designers such as De Klerk and Piet Kramer, Amsterdam School’s figurehead after De Klerk passed away. To Roegholt, these objects best embody the principle of ‘colour by form, with clever light and shadow effects that reveal new shades without the need to use paint’. And thanks to the research efforts of the Stedelijk Museum, which scoured both its own collection and those of enthusiastic amateurs for the most exciting pieces, the innovative Amsterdam School design may finally get the international exposure it deserves.
LIVING IN THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOL Until 28 August Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl
MUSEUM HET SCHIP Spaarndammerplantsoen 140 www.hetschip.nl
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EU IN THE CLASSROOM text Angel Trinidad
BRINGING EUROPE CLOSER
One of projects of the city of Amsterdam during the Dutch Presidency is the ‘EU in the Classroom’ project, which aims to bring the EU closer to young people. By inviting EU officials to speak and give a guest lesson in secondary schools, the school project will literally put a face to the European Union, making it come alive for students and fostering a constructive dialogue. The city invites professionals of the European Institutions who will be coming to Amsterdam to take an extra hour or two to visit a school and meet the young students of the city. More than 20 schools in Amsterdam and neighbouring municipalities are looking forward to welcoming EU officials as guest speakers to share and discuss their experience with the EU. In partnership with the University of Amsterdam and the organisation of Amsterdam secondary schools, the municipality aims to match school teachers with EU officials according to their interests, specialties and language requests. During the programme, each EU official is assisted by a third-year European Studies student from the University of Amsterdam. These students have put together a special ‘EU in the Classroom’ lesson programme and developed lesson materials with school teachers on various EU themes such as security, the market, European multilingualism and the origin and function of the euro. The students act as ambassadors between the schools and the EU officials as they develop the themes under the supervision of the teachers. amsterdam.nl/schoolproject
eu in the classroom
Q&A
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We asked Joost Ploeger, teacher of economics at Open Schoolgemeenschap Bijlmer (OSB), about his thoughts on ‘EU in the Classroom’: WHAT IS YOUR ROLE IN THE 'EU IN THE CLASSROOM' PROJECT? I am a mentor and teacher of 4thyear students (VWO) at Open Schoolgemeenschap Bijlmer (OSB). I wanted to teach my students something more about the European Union. Therefore, I was very happy to join the project.
DID YOU, AS A TEACHER, LEARN SOMETHING NEW?
'THE PROJECT INSPIRED ME TO DEVELOP A RELATED PROJECT CONCERNING THE POLITICS OF THE EU AND THE WAVE OF REFUGEES COMING FROM THE MIDDLE EAST'
I realised again how important it is to sometimes leave the classroom with the students to visit new places and meet interesting people. It’s also true the other way around; by inviting interesting people to our school, the students feel respected. It is a nice experience for the visitor as well. The project inspired me to develop a related project concerning the politics of the European Union and the wave of refugees coming from the Middle East.
WHAT WAS THE MOST INTERESTING THING THAT HAPPENED DURING THE LECTURES? If I remember well, the lecturer asked all the students who have at least one parent or grandparent born outside of the Netherlands to stand up. An amazing amount of people got up – I would say the vast
majority. It shows how diverse and multicultural the population of Amsterdam has become.
DO YOU THINK THE LESSONS MADE AN IMPACT ON THE STUDENTS? In my opinion, the European Union is quite abstract to young people, even though some things are taken for granted – like the euro and open borders within the EU – because the newer generation has almost no memory of paying in the national currencies or of being stopped at the border within the EU. The institutions of the European Union are very complex and not many students would know anyone working there. It's the complexity and the distance that makes the EU abstract. It can be made less abstract by teaching young people not about the EU in general, but about practical themes that occupy the headlines of the newspapers, like the economic crisis and the refugees.
Do you wish to take part of the programme as a guest lecturer? To learn more about the EU in the Classroom programme, visit: amsterdam.nl/schoolproject
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180 amsterdammers
A city of openness
Amsterdam celebrates its unique history of openness and diversity with the 180 Amsterdammers project. Russell Shorto looks back on the city’s special history of embracing differences – the key to Amsterdam’s success in the Golden Age. text Angel Trinidad
A BEWILDERING MIX ‘In 1580, Amsterdam had 30,000 inhabitants. Fifty years later there were close to 140,000, plus swarms of undocumented aliens, which a scholar recently estimated would have numbered in the hundreds of thousands, flooding into the city to work on the expansion or looking for places on VOC ships. And the inhabitants were a bewildering mix. At least a third were foreign born. Most immigrants were from Germany and Scandinavia, but one could have also seen and heard Africans, Turks, Inuits, Laplanders and others. The city was a cacophony of languages.’ * Jumping ahead another 400 years, Amsterdam now counts exactly 180 nationalities according to the Bureau of Statistics. Brits, Germans, French, Italians, Ghanese and Americans are among the largest groups, as are Moroccans, Surinamese and Turks, but you will also find Bolivians, Moldavians and Nepalese among the ranks of those who call Amsterdam home. *From Amsterdam: a History of the World’s Most Liberal City by Russell Shorto.
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A history of diversity text Russell Shorto
180 AMSTERDAMMERS Amsterdam is a city with freedom in its heart. Whatever their origin, people here feel free: to be who they want to be, to write what they want to write, to say what they want to say. This freedom and tolerance has been part of the city’s DNA since the 17th century. This year, the city is celebrating this diversity by collecting 180 stories by 180 Amsterdammers. These Amsterdammers come from 180 different countries, and each having forged their own personal Amsterdam. Each nationality is photographed and interviewed. Het Parool publishes one portrait every weekday; this is complemented by 180 stories through various video and written interviews. Later in 2016, there will be a largescale campaign consisting of outdoor ads, social-media campaigns, an exhibition, a book and a dinner with all 180 Amsterdammers. 180 Amsterdam is an initiative of Amsterdam Marketing, AmsterdamFM, Bridgizz, Nieuwwij, Story Supply, Het Parool, OBA, Amsterdam Museum and the City of Amsterdam. All 180 portraits are photographed by Michiel van Nieuwkerk. www.180amsterdammmers.nl
Amsterdam became the melting pot of Europe in the 1500s and 1600s, setting the template for modern urban life. Amsterdam circa 1584 was the goal for refugees: when Spain attacked the provinces of what is now Belgium, bankers and textile manufacturers, cartographers and spice dealers, Jews and Christians fled northward. In the midst of an intolerant world, Amsterdam, as it took in hordes from all over Europe and as far away as Africa and the Middle East, discovered that there was gold to be mined in the reverse concept. Tolerance of differences – not just on the part of the government, but in the eyes of ordinary citizens, neighbours and people on the street – meant connections to far-flung lands, business deals, access to new ideas. Amsterdam’s printers capitalised on the city’s reputation as an entrepôt for new ideas by announcing their availability to print texts on a wide variety of topics, virtually free of censorship. Soon the city became the world capital of publishing. Political and scientific tracts – both of which were banned in many other places for impugning ruling regimes – churned from the city’s presses. Galileo and Descartes had their works published by Dutch printers. And those works contained not only new ideas, but the seeds of new industries. You’re an enterprising businessman and you read about the wondrous possibilities of the telescope, or the microscope. What do you do? You open a factory that produces lenses, eyepieces, metal tubes, focusing knobs. The city’s surgeons held public anatomy lessons by dissecting the corpses of executed murderers, causing a flurry of interest in the subject. The presses got to work producing exquisite full-colour texts showing the intricacies of the human body. A skipper from Norway or Iceland would pull into the IJ, Amsterdam’s harbour, in a vessel sporting an innovative hull design. The city’s shipyards would get to work. That is how Amsterdam became the centrepiece of the Golden Age, and, in time, the model that other cities strove to copy. ‘Diversity’– in the sense of a target number of different nationalities – is not necessarily the point. Openness is the point.
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5 questions
5 QUESTIONS
LIVING POETRY One of the cultural initiatives organised by the Dutch Chairmanship of the EU and the City Council of Amsterdam, the Rona Mathlener Projects share artistic and poetic visions of and hopes for Europe. We posed five questions to cultural entrepreneur Rona Mathlener and discovered a treasure trove of inspiration. 1. PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR PROJECT. Our project is called ‘In European Poetry, I Want to Live’ in which we invite 56 poets – 28 young emerging poets and 28 older ones – to reflect on three of the European Union's big challenges: Europe and the Refugee, Europe and Democracy, and Europe and Peace. The poems will be spoken and displayed in both English and Dutch from 2 to 8 May on Amsterdam’s electronic billboards in the subway stations, Central Station and Schiphol, as well as on The Wall at the Marineterrein.
2. HOW AND WHY DID YOU COME UP WITH THIS PROJECT? As the European Union is currently stumbling from crisis to crisis, we asked ourselves whether Europe is more than just problems and issues... Can the European Union still inspire us as it did earlier generations? Is there a Europe beyond crisis? To us, poetry seemed the perfect artform to reflect on these questions; not to provide straightforward answers, but to put these questions in a different perspective.
3. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON EUROPE? Although far from perfect, Europe is a political miracle. After centuries of war and conflict, the European Union has provided Europeans 70 years of liberty, peace and prosperity. Quite a feat if you consider Europe's history.
4. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT AMSTERDAM?
DENNIS BOUMAN
Amsterdam is a great city to live in if you love culture and if you’re working in the cultural sector. The large national and international cultural supply is of such a high quality that inspiration for new ideas and projects
is always within reach. Amsterdam is a true world city with a special cultural infrastructure. Because Amsterdam is, compared to other world cities, not large in terms of population and area, the various cultural disciplines can easily find each other and create special collaborative projects found nowhere else in the world.
5. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES IN THE CITY, IN TERMS OF ART, DESIGN, CULTURE AND LITERATURE? We are proud to live in a city like Amsterdam, where we have such great cultural venues such as the Concertgebouw, and wonderful museums, like the Stedelijk Museum. We also love the buzzing art and music scenes, and often go to the Bimhuis and Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ. ronamathlenerprojecten.nl
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BACK THEN Every year on 4 May, the Netherlands commemorates the victims of war, and on 5 May, the country celebrates the fact that it was liberated. On 4 May 2015, King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima were present during the 70th national commemoration of Remembrance Day in Amsterdam. They laid the first wreath at the National Monument on the Dam Square that evening, just before the two minutes of silence at eight o'clock, observed in commemoration of all Dutch victims of war. WHO DO WE COMMEMORATE?
People experienced the second world war in very different ways, depending on who they were, what they stood for, what they did or where they lived. All those different experiences are reflected in the different commemoration ceremonies throughout the years. During the national commemoration of Remembrance Day on 4 May, those various experiences come together and the dead are jointly remembered. Indeed, the memorandum that sets out who we commemorate on 4 May was deliberately formulated in general terms to ensure the inclusion of all the different (groups of) Dutch victims of war. Indeed, all those who remained behind experienced great personal grief for the loved ones they lost. 4en5mei.nl/english
© NATIONAAL COMITÉ 4 EN 5 MEI - ILVY NJIOKIKTJIEN
4 MAY 2015
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WHAT’S ON
what's on
EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS MIGRANTS & THE LLOYD FESTIVAL The Lloyd Hotel & Cultural Embassy presents a beautiful exhibition on the migrant history of Amsterdam’s Eastern Docklands area, where the hotel itself is located. Between 1921 and 1935, the hotel served as an emigrant hotel for the shipping company Royal Dutch Lloyd. Thousands of Eastern Europeans emigrated via Lloyd Hotel to Brazil to work on coffee plantations. The project shows that migration has always been a part of human life and is thus related to the current (European) reality. The exhibition runs until 31 December. On 29 May, Relate Events, a group of students with a focus on cultural entrepreneurship, presents the Lloyd Festival, exploring this history even further. Through art installations, tours, food events, lectures, music and storytelling, the festival will tell the stories of migrants then and now: the doubt before leaving, the fear of the journey, going into the unknown and the hope for a better future. Lloyd Hotel & Cultural Embassy Festival 29 May, 2-9 pm Exhibition until 31 December lloydhotel.com
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EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS BERLAGE, GODFATHER OF DUTCH DESIGN Berlage could be considered the most important designer in Dutch history. He not only designed the Beurs van Berlage in Amsterdam, but also the many exceptional objects and pieces of furniture inside the building. This exhibition showcases authentic pieces of furniture from Berlage's hand while also looking at contemporary Dutch Design. Beurs van Berlage, until 15 May REMBRANDT’S NAKED TRUTH Based on the latest research, 'Rembrandt’s Naked Truth' features 17th-century nude studies that have never before been brought together in such large numbers. It will be the first time that Rembrandt’s frank approach to drawing nudes will be examined in depth and brought to the attention of a wide audience. Expect more than 50 objects collected from around the world, alongside pieces from the museum's own collection. Rembrandt House Museum, until 16 May BREITNER: GIRL IN KIMONO Breitner created this muchloved series between 1893 and 1896, immortalising young model Geesje Kwak through in his art. Here you can see the entire series of 14 paintings, including an unfinished portrait and the largely unknown 'Girl in a Red Kimono', telling the story of how these works were created through the many preparatory drawings, sketches and photographs that the artist produced. Rijksmuseum, until 22 May CLOSE-UP: A NEW GENERATION OF FILM AND VIDEO ARTISTS IN THE NETHERLANDS As the title suggests, this exhibition is an opportunity for the EYE Filmmuseum to offer up space to recent film graduates and other fresh
Choice exhibition
HELMUT NEWTON: A RETROSPECTIVE Admire the work of Helmut Newton (1920-2004), a legendary photographer best known for his collaborations with French Vogue and the fashion industry. The retrospective features more than 200 photographs ranging from his rare to well-known works, and is a testament to the complexity and multi-faceted nature of his craft. Newton’s oeuvre is considered by some to be one of the most iconic of the last quarter of the 20th century 17 June-4 Sep, Foam Photography Museum talents. Presented as a group images not only presents the exhibition of film/video (at times gruesome) realworks and installations, the ity of events on the world exhibition offers a chance to stage, but also the beauty of discover a variety of interlife, sports, art, science and esting artworks. nature. EYE Film Museum, until De Nieuwe Kerk, until 22 May 10 Jul SPANISH MASTERS FROM THE HERMITAGE Subtitled 'The World of El Greco, Ribera, Zurbarán, Velázquez, Murillo & Goya', this grand exhibition of Spanish art and artefacts includes more than 60 superior paintings and a rich collection of graphic works and applied-arts masterpieces. In addition to the grand masters, it features paintings by their pupils and later painters, up to and including Picasso. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 29 May WORLD PRESS PHOTO The winning images from the world's largest and most prestigious annual press photography contest begin their world tour in Amsterdam each year, presenting a reflection of trends and developments in photojournalism. This collection of
MASTER OF LIGHT: ROBBY MÜLLER Robby Müller, the most renowned cinematographer from the Netherlands, makes his personal archive available to the public and gives intimate access to his life in self-shot videos. Besides moving images, there are Polaroid photos, letters and notes that capture what it is like to work in the world of cinema. EYE Film Museum, 4 Jun-28 Aug AMY WINEHOUSE: A FAMILY PORTRAIT Looking beyond the hype, this exhibition presents an intimate portrayal of the life of songstress Amy Winehouse, emphasising her passion for music and fashion, as well as the history of her Jewish family and her school days. The Winehouse family has offered access to
many of Amy's personal belongings for this collection, while the accompanying stories by her brother Alex make the experience even more personal. Jewish Historical Museum, until 4 Sep WORLD WAR II TODAY The exhibition gives young generations a new way to remember the second world war. World Press Photowinning photographer Roger Cremers captures the manner in which people commemorate the war, 70 years after its end. Since 2008, Cremers has been collecting images throughout Europe of re-enactments, group tourism to former concentration camps and excavations of victims from the attack on Stalingrad. Verzetsmuseum, until 25 Sep ARITA PORCELAIN TODAY The centuries-old tradition of porcelain manufacturing in the Japanese town of Arita has entered a new era. Under the supervision of the Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings and the Japanese designer Teruhiro Yanagihara, an elite group of international designers have produced a number of new ceramic creations that can be seen in this exhibition. Rijksmuseum, until 31 Oct CATHERINE THE GREAT A collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures and personal objects of Catherine the Great make their way from St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, inviting spectators into her world. This exhibition offers a unique glimpse into the life of Europe’s longestreigning empress. Many of her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her decadent life. Hermitage Amsterdam, 18 Jun 2016-15 Jan 2017 For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com
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what's on
EU PRESIDENCY
FESTIVALS & EVENTS DOEK FESTIVAL dOeK is an Amsterdambased collective of renowned jazz musicians with a particular penchant for improvisation. And because improvisation is best done together, they regularly get together to perform – most importantly at the annual dOeK Festival centred on the Bimhuis, plus independent venues like Zaal 100 and De Ruimte. 29 Apr-4 May, various locations, doek.org ROLLING KITCHENS During the long holiday weekend, hordes of mobile kitchens descend upon the park at the Westergasfabriek to create an enormous open-air restaurant. Food to suit every appetite is on the menu, with everything from fresh Italian pizza to sophisticated seafood dishes. Hunt around for your favourite dish(es), pick up your order and relax in the sunshine (or later in the evening, under the stars) as you enjoy your food. 12-16 May, Westergasfabriek, rollendekeukens. amsterdam YUMMYA AMSTERDAM Normally reserved for ice skaters, Amsterdam's premium ice rink is turning over its grounds to a wide variety of food trucks offering culinary delights from crêpes and wraps to Moroccan bastillas. The festival is organised by themes alluding to paradise, including 'Garden of Eden' and 'Adam and Eve'. 5-8 May, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, yummya.nl OPEN ATELIERS IN THE JORDAAN Every spring, some 60 artists working in the Jordaan neighbourhood invite visitors to take a peek behind the scenes as they throw open the doors to their studios. Meet the artists and view their work, ranging from paintings and sculptures to jewellery, photographs and mixed media. 14-16 May, various locations, openateliersjordaan.nl
Choice event
SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL Every year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter a blanket of blossoms over the city’s streets – a phenomenon that has come to be known as ‘spring snow’. This celebration of spring includes a walking route past the city’s elm highlights, exhibitions and side programmes. Until 21 May, various locations, springsnow.nl PARK AM SEE Berlin-based club Watergate, Amsterdam electro event collective Chasing the Hihat and music magazine Deep House Amsterdam present an enormous dance music festival in a serene setting. DJ stars include Tom Trago, Prosumer and Jeremy Underground. 21 May, De Oeverlanden, parkamsee.com DIYNAMIC FESTIVAL The Hamburg-based record label Diynamic heads west to pack the park south of Amsterdam full of pulsepounding dance beats. The line-up includes Solomun, Adriatique and Kollektiv Turmstrasse. 27 May, Amsterdamse Bos, diynamic-festival.com 909 FESTIVAL The 909 Festival is all about sun and beats, promising a full day of the world’s best techno in this forested park in Amstelveen, at the southern end of the capital. DJs Jeff Mills and Speedy J headline in 2016. 28 May, Amsterdamse Bos, 909.nl KUNSTRAI 2015 The longest-running art fair in the Netherlands offers art
lovers the chance to get their hands on the latest and greatest in the scene. Alongside the regular gallerycentred stands, booths are devoted to individual artists, allowing visitors to delve deeper into their work. Amsterdam RAI, Wed 1-Sun 5 Jun, various times, kunstrai.nl TASTE OF AMSTERDAM Four days of summer eating, drinking and entertainment as top chefs from the city's leading restaurants present special menus of starter-sized dishes in an unbeatable al fresco gourmet feast. While eating is a fine way to pass the time, don’t forget to drop in on a live cook-off (guests judge the winner), lecture or wine tasting between dishes. And there's a farmers' market so that you can take plenty home, too. Amstelpark, Thur 2-Sun 5 Jun, various times, €12 tasteofamsterdam.com HOLLAND FESTIVAL This leading international performance-arts festival provides Dutch and international theatregoers with a survey of the best and most widely acclaimed performance pieces from around the world – plus a bunch of
world premieres. The festival offers a heady mix of theatre, music, dance, opera, film and visual arts, as well as Western and non-Western performance pieces in a variety of languages. Highlights from the festival can be found throughout our A-list. Various locations, 4-26 Jun, various times & prices hollandfestival.nl LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS As well as its sport and recreation facilities, the dazzling nature of the Amsterdamse Bos is home to a picturesque open-air theatre that reopens for the summer season. Besides theatrical performances, look out for the diverse singer-songwriter and pop acts popping up there over the coming months. In June, it’s Candi Staton (7 June) and Maaike Ouboter (12 June). Amsterdamse Bos, from Sun 5 Jun, various times & prices liveatamsterdamsebos.nl THE BACCHUS WINE FESTIVAL A festival in honour of the Roman god of wine! The Bacchus Wijnfestival is set to present more than 250 wines from all corners of the world, in combination with plenty of mobile catering, DJs and live music. The 2016 edition takes place over two weekends. 10-12, 17-19 Jun, Amsterdamse Bos, bacchuswijnfestival.nl ITS FESTIVAL The International Theatre School Festival brings the best new theatrical talent to stages at theatres across Amsterdam every year, giving the latest batch of home-grown and international theatre graduates a chance to showcase their talents in front of a wide audience of theatre fans, casting agencies, artistic directors and the press. 22-30 Jun, various locations, itsfestivalamsterdam.com For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com
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MUSIC & STAGE
GREAT LAKE SWIMMERS Befitting their pleasantly twee name, Great Lake Swimmers are Canadian folk rockers with lush interplay between guitars, violins and soft vocals by singersongwriter Tony Dekker. In the vein of Neil Young and Nick Drake, their song titles include 'A Jukebox in a Desert of Snow', 'Something Like A Storm' and 'Ballad of a Fisherman’s Wife'. You get the idea. Sat 7 May, Sugar Factory, 20:00, €15 BASIA BULAT Basia Bulat is a Canadian folk singer with a penchant for the autoharp, as well as the piano and guitar. Basia’s strong yet warbling voice filled the Theatre Carre last year when she supported Sufjan Stevens. This year she comes to the Paradiso with a brand new album, Good Advice. Sun 8 May, Paradiso, 20:00, €13 ROD STEWART Rock and soul legend Rod Stewart will bring all his classic hits as well as his new record, Another Country,
Fri 20 May, Melkweg, 19:30, €15
© RAHI REZVANI
NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – FINAL FANTASY Gaming culture hits the concert halls as the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra performs tunes from Final Fantasy, composed by Nobuo Uematsu and Jonne Valtonen, in orchestral arrangements. Game soundtracks have come a long way since the 8-bit Tetris theme. Sat 7 May, Concertgebouw, 20:15, €20-€34
Choice music
NDT IN AMSTERDAM The prestigious Nederlands Dans Theater comes to Amsterdam for a series of performances titled ‘Separate Ways’ – an exciting programme consisting entirely of new pieces by Hofesh Shechter plus Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. The British-Israeli Shechter is regarded as one of Britain's most acclaimed choreographers. León and Lightfoot have been a creative duo since 1989 and are NDT’s in-house choreographers since 2002. 11-14 May, National Opera & Ballet, ndt.nl
© JESSICA LEHRMAN
ANDREW BIRD Andrew Bird never settles. The multi-instrumentalist keeps busy both in the studio, with records regularly dropping, and on stage, where he can be found switching instruments, looping sounds and constructing great walls of baroque pop and indie rock. Fri 6 May, Paradiso, 20:00, €25
PORCHES Slacker pop from New York, Porches is Aaron Maine and band. His first record, 2013’s Slow Dance in the Cosmos was scuzzy, lackadaisical indie. However, this year’s Pool has a cleaner sound with synths to the fore – a new addition to Maine’s DIY studio, it seems. Tues 17 May, De School Amsterdam, 20:00, €12 his 29th studio album, not to mention plenty of hair gel, to the Ziggo Dome. Ladies, don’t forget your spare undies to throw. Sat 14 May, Ziggo Dome, €60 SUUNS Montreal art rockers Suuns
RIHANNA One of the biggest names in the pop world today, the Barbadian mixes RnB, pop and dancehall across all her records. She returns to the Netherlands to promote new album Anti, featuring sweaty, Patwa-tinged single 'Work'. Fri 17 June, Amsterdam Arena, 19:00, €39 make effect-laden indie that's alternately crackling and jagged, light and atmospheric and drenched in distortion. Last year they teamed with the Canadian-Lebanese project Jerusalem in My Heart and this year released third album 'Hold/Still'.
BRYAN ADAMS Bryan Adams shows no signs of slowing down. The Canadian tours Europe to promote his 2015 album Get Up!, which leans heavily on upbeat old-timey rock 'n' roll and follows just a year after previous effort, Tracks of My Years, a record of covers. Tues 24 May, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €39 THE HOUSE OF LOVE Coming out of the indie-shoegaze scene of 1980s London and inspired by Jesus & Mary Chain, House of Love recorded four albums before their breakup in 1993. They reunited 10 years later, putting out Days Run Away in 2005 and, more recently, She Paints Words in Red in 2013. Thurs 26 May, Paradiso, 20:30, €20 LONDON CALLING <SUMMER SPECIAL> The summer edition of this mini music festival has widened its coverage with four acts from Australia. Royal Headache is reminiscent of Aussie pub punk. Methyl Ethel makes psych-rock comparable to Tame Impala, while Slum Sociable mixes lo-fi indie and soulful RnB. Finally, Ben Forbes, aka Banff, creates spacious guitar pop. Sat 28 May, Paradiso, 18:00, €20 NELLY Go and take a ride ‘wit’ Nelly at the Melkweg. Blending hip hop and pop perfect for the club dancefloor, Nelly has been making it ‘Hot in Herre’ since the turn of the century. When he’s not singing, or getting caught with drugs and guns on his tour bus, he’s starring in his own reality TV show, Nellyville. Thur 2 June, Melkweg, 19:30, €32 For the complete listing: iamsterdam.com
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EU PRESIDENCY
pretty things
PRETTY THINGS
Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card.
text Angel Trinidad & Catalina Iorga
ta ke-away a m s terda m THE NEW I AMSTERDAM STORE IN CENTRAL STATION
design paradise X BANK Located in a former Art Deco bank, just a few steps away from the Dam Square, X Bank is a 700 m2 hybrid store filled to the brink with today’s most inspiring Dutch fashion, art and design. This ‘bank of wonders’ presents a comprehensive collection of works by over 180 premium, upcoming and influential Dutch designers, including Avelon, Bas Kosters, Driessens & Van der Baar, Droog, Schuller De Waal and many others. With prices ranging from 8 euros (a tin of Dutch apple syrup) to 80,000 euros (a pistol artwork by Ted Noten), every small and big treasure can be found here: from jewellery, men’s suits and bags to design objects, magazines and artwork. The product curation is meticulously executed with the concept of collaboration in mind. You can easily get in touch with the designers – who often live closeby – should you wish to know more about the designs or want a custom-made outfit. Downstairs is X Bank Art, a contemporary art gallery featuring exhibitions small and large. Spend hours wandering and discovering your next favourite brands in this eclectic design paradise. Spuistraat 172 xbank.amsterdam
Those craving local treats with a conscience should look no further than the brand new I amsterdam store, housed under the mirrored roof of Central Station’s shiny IJ hall. A sprawling 300 m2 affair, the shop wants locals to feel proud of the city’s vibrant cultural scene and innovative artisans. Among the socially minded products are chocolate bars from Tony’s Chocolonely; organic brews from the city’s original microbrewery, Brouwerij ’t IJ; and natural, paraben-free skincare goodies made by Marie-Stella-Maris, a social enterprise keen on making clean drinking water the global norm. One of the store’s highlights is a wall showcasing 27 home-grown products and brands.The store also offers personalised advice for your trip: ask one of the enthusiastic insiders, who will be walking around the store, ready to tell you where the city’s finest coffee or most cutting-edge exhibitions are to be found. Central Station IJ Hall iamsterdam.com
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TRIP AROUND EUROPE Cosmopolitan shopping & dining in Amsterdam
text Angel Trinidad
Austria
KLEIN TIROL A hidden gem in the busy Leidseplein area, this cosy restaurant serves juicy schnitzels, warm apfelstrudel and cold beers. The wood-panelled walls and decor reminiscent of ski chalets will take you back to the Austrian Alps.
Finland
A PIECE OF FINLAND This beautiful concept store offers food, objects, clothing and travel accessories by Finnish designers. There is also a coffee corner where visitors can relax and enjoy pastries and delicious coffee from a Finnish roastery.
Leidsekruisstraat 19 kleintirol.com
Haarlemmerdijk 66 apieceoffinland.nl
France
Spain
PUERTO PATA NEGRA Known for their delectable tapas, Pata Negra offers authentic Spanish cuisine made with fresh ingredients from Spain. Grab a pitcher of sangria and enjoy the restaurant’s mouthwatering patatas bravas, chorizo and paella. Oostelijke Handelskade 999 pata-negra.nl
Amsterdam
LOCAL GOODS STORE With every purchase at this beautiful concept store, you are funding the work of local Dutch designers, creators and brands. The Local Goods store, located in the beautiful De Hallen, presents innovative and original products: books, T-shirts, art, jewellery, food and accessories, all made by local creatives. Hannie Dankbaarpassage 39 localgoodsstore.nl
Germany
CAFE BRECHT This cosy Berlin-style living-room cafe is decorated with vintage mismatched sofas, chairs and lampshades, making for a relaxed and unpretentious hangout. Serving German beers, soft drinks and light bites, it is the perfect spot for an after-work drink.
Denmark
Utrechtsestraat 78 bolia.com
Haarlemmerstraat 80 petitgateau.nl
Italy
Weteringschans 157 cafebrecht.nl
BOLIA Danish furniture and lifestyle chain Bolia has recently opened its doors in Amsterdam. Discover an idyllic world of cosy, personal and innovative 'New Scandinavian Design' with their beautiful handmade furniture in minimal styles, luscious colours and inviting textiles.
PETIT GÂTEAU Petit Gâteau is a delightful French pastry shop located in the lively Haarlemmerstraat. Enjoy their heavenly selection of miniminis (6 cm cakes in different flavours), macarons, madeleines, quiches and eclairs. Ooh la la!
Belgium
VLAAMS FRITESHUIS VLEMINCKX
A long line snaking down the street can always be seen beside this small friet stand. Vleminckx sells delicious homemade Belgian fries and 25 different types of sauces, and was voted 2nd-best snack corner in Holland by a Dutch newspaper. The best things in life are worth waiting for, as they say. Voetboogstraat 31-33 vleminckxdesausmeester.nl
SPAGHETTERIA This beautiful spaghetti bar offers fresh, homemade pasta made according to ancient Italian traditions. The menu consists of three permanent classics and three other traditional dishes, which change on a daily basis – all made from organic flour from Emilia Romagna. Jan Hanzenstraat 32 spaghetteria-pastabar.nl
Portugal
GIRASSOL This small family restaurant is the oldest Portuguese restaurant in the Netherlands. Simple, friendly, and laid-back, Girassol serves delectable Portuguese dishes and organises melancholic fado evenings from time to time. Their terrace – one of the most beautiful in Amsterdam, facing the Amstel river – is now open for the summer. Weesperzijde 135 girassol.nl
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eating out
EU PRESIDENCY
EATING OUT
Our top dining options, from sweet sensations to sky-high locations. text Angel Trinidad
panoramic views DAK RESTAURANT The newly renovated restaurant on the 5th floor of the marvelous NEMO museum is now open. DAK uses sustainable technology, one of the museum architect’s original ideas finally coming to full fruition. Visitors can enjoy light snacks and lunch, from homemade lemonade to tasty sandwiches. During the summer, the restaurant and the rooftop square stay open later – perfect for sunbathing and enjoying the long summer days. Oosterdok 2 e-NEMO.nl
mid-century marvel PENSION HOMELAND
T
he Marineterrein has existed for 350 years, originally a huge shipyard, which closed its gates in 1915. In addition to the historical buildings, including the lovely Gate House (now classified a national monument), new accommodations were constructed in the 1960s for marine officers during their Amsterdam stay. Pension Homeland, a hotelrestaurant that opened its doors last summer, is housed in the building that welcomed the officers. The common longroom, where the marines used to relax, play billiards or throw swanky parties in their white uniforms, has been transformed into the hotel’s restaurant, which is open from breakfast to dinner and serves polished European fare such as Dutch oysters, deer Wellington and Mandarin trifle. What’s really worth the detour is the authentic 1960s decor, from the pop artwork hanging on the wood-panelled walls to the colourful furniture. Kattenburgerstraat 5 pensionhomeland.nl
lush dining DE PLANTAGE The stunning Plantage restaurant, just next to the Artis zoo, is housed in a breathtaking 19th-century converted conservatory. It was a former meeting facility for the members of the zoo. With its gorgeous steel and glass walls, romantic lighting and airy atmosphere, it is definitely one of the most beautiful restaurants in the city. Plantage Kerklaan 36 caferestaurantdeplantage.nl
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THE SWEETEST SPOTS
From traditional Dutch treats such as stroopwafels and poffertjes to more classic cakes and pastries, these dessert addresses’ specialties will make your saccharine dreams come true. text Angel Trinidad
IJSCUYPJE
speculaas ice cream This chain of ice-cream shops offer the best homemade ice cream in the city in the most special flavours. Our tip: the speculaas ice cream, made out of the traditional Dutch spiced cookie. Eerste van Helststraat 27 Prinsengracht 292, and more
WINKEL 43
apple pie
Winkel 43’s generous portions of crunchy baked apple pie are served with dollops of delicious whipped cream and heralded as the best appletaart in the city. Just go. Noordermarkt 43
DE LAATSTE KRUIMEL
courgette cake
‘The Last Crumb’ serves heavenly cakes, tarts, pies and cookies, all showcased beautifully in its whimsical window display. The homemade lemon poppyseed scone and the courgette cake are crowd favourites. Langebrugsteeg 4
PATISSERIE HOLTKAMP
champagne cake
This beloved Amsterdam institution has been around since 1886, offering the best classical cakes in town. Local favourites
TOMPOUCE
include flavoured chocolates and the lemon meringue cake. Don’t miss out on the champagne cake; it tastes as lovely as it sounds. Vijzelgracht 15
NOORDERMARKT
poffertjes
Poffertjes are like mini pancakes, but fluffier and puffier. The most delicious and buttery ones are made fresh and sold on the streets. Check the stands at the Noordermarkt flea- and organic market for this traditional Dutch treat. Noordermarkt
BLOMMESTEIN
tompouce
This bakery produces the most delicious tompouces in Amsterdam. The tompouce is one of the most iconic (and difficult to eat) Dutch pastries: two layers of puff pastry with cream filling, topped with smooth pink icing. Churchilllaan 26
HET OUD-HOLLANDSCH SNOEPWINKEL
traditional candy
The Old Dutch Candyshop, located in the heart of the Jordaan district, offers delightful candy made the way our grandparents used to enjoy it. Dare to try drop (licorice) – most Dutchies’ favourite candy. Egelantiersdwarsstraat 2
LANSKROON BANKETBAKKERIJ
stroopwafels
Famous for their giant-sized homemade stroopwafels, this confectionary tea room has been around since 1908, boasting four generations of master bakers. While traditional stroopwafels have caramel filling, Lanskroon offers two mouthwatering flavours: hopjes (coffee and caramel toffee) and honing (honey). Singel 385
DRS KOEKKENBAKKER
customised cakes
This lovely lady creates the most amazing customised birthday and wedding cakes. Arienne does not have a shop or bakery open to public yet, so requests are done via phone or e-mail. The chocolate cake with raspberry mousse is delicious! drskoekenbakker.nl
VAN STAPELE KOEKMAKERIJ
chocolate cookie Hidden in a small alleyway close to the Spui Square lies a small cookie store selling the best kind of chocolate cookie in the world: dark chocolate cookies with melt-inyour-mouth white chocolate inside. Heisteeg 4
Book online vangoghmuseum.com/easyvirtue Van Gogh engages you.