A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 4, No. 5 by amsterdam&partners

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION SEP & OCT 2016

LET’S DANCE! WITH THE A’DAM TOWER AND AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT THE CITY BECOMES A BEACON OF SOUND

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 4 N0 5 SEP & OCT 2016

DANCE CENTRAL

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE With the recent opening of the A’DAM Tower and the world’s leading dance event, ADE, about to take off, Amsterdam anchors its position as capital of dance and EDM.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT The Unseen Photo Fair and Festival liven up the city and Fringe brings its fun theatre flair to the streets, while Amsterdammers enjoy some sports – and much, much more.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

P.70 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.51 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch explores Amsterdam’s quickly changing North, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

As in last month’s Olympics, the Netherlands play a disproportionately large role in the world of Electronic Dance Music (EDM). The Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), started in 1995 in a Vijzelgracht hotel for 500 people, has grown exponentially to become today the largest conference for Dance music, combined with a festival that attracts almost 375,000 visitors over the course of five days in 120 venues across town. Excuse my superlatives here, but these are the facts. The reason that Amsterdam should become Dance capital has a lot to do with two legendary dance clubs that ruled the Amsterdam nightlife in the nineties. RoXy and iT (with typical 90s jumbled spelling), both located within 300 meters of each other around Muntplein, staged extravagant house parties (think big naked women and dwarfs dangling from the ceiling in fishing nets) where a flamboyant gay audience set the tone. Drugs played a big part too, especially the newly introduced ‘love drug’ ecstasy. Out of these clubs was born a generation of DJs who shaped the direction of House and later Dance music with their innovative mixes. The godlike fame that DJs now enjoy was lost on this first generation, but Dutch DJs who followed in their footsteps became the first megastars of Dance. They dominated the charts for a long time after the 90s, and still half of the top ten DJs are Dutch. Enter a new exciting venue in the industry: the A’DAM Tower, the landmark building that dominates the IJ-River, is slowly being turned into a vertical dance city, with two clubs, a hotel, restaurants and the headquarters of major industry companies, including event organiser SFX, producer Massive Music and musical instrument builder Gibson. Take the elevator up to their observation deck on the 21st floor for breath-taking views of Amsterdam.

OPENING

sep & oct 2016

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘IT IS A METROPOLIS WITH THE SIZE AND FEEL OF A VILLAGE.’ TRACY METZ, DIRECTOR OF THE JOHN ADAMS INSTITUTE, ON AMSTERDAM’S APPEAL

text Mark Smith

FOOD ON THE FLY

MEDICAL DRAMA Nurse, the screens! Amsterdam’s teaching hospital, AMC, has launched a study with the aim of establishing whether entertaining patients with films and music during surgery leads to improved relaxation during the procedure and shorter recovery times. The experiment began in August, when a patient undergoing ankle surgery watched the celebrated Dutch nature documentary De Nieuwe Wildernis and found it to be an ‘enriching’ experience, according to the hospital. Hopefully David Cronenberg’s body horrors are contraindicated. www.amc.nl

Legend has it that LEON founders John Vincent and Henry Dimbleby arrived at the concept for their wildly successful British restaurant brand by asking the question: ‘What would fast food taste like in Heaven?’ Some 12 years and 36 stores later, the pair have followed in the steps of Ronald McDonald by choosing to open their first European store in Amsterdam. Passengers travelling through Schiphol Airport’s Plaza can sample such LEON classics as the Moroccan meatball hotbox, the signature fish-finger wrap and the original superfood salad before taking to the heavens for real. As well as its menu, LEON has exported its decidedly short-haul sourcing policy, with all ingredients hailing from these shores – except for the Spanish chorizo, of course. A second helping of LEON is due early next year with the opening of an airside branch. www.leonrestaurants.co.uk

HOPE FLOATS Refugee Mohammad Al Masri risked life and limb to make the perilous journey to Europe by boat. Now, just a year after his arrival, Mohammad (‘Mo’ to his friends) is chartering tours around the altogether more tranquil waters of Amsterdam. ‘It’s an amazing thing, driving a boat in the canals of amazing Amsterdam,’ enthuses Mo of his new role. Like the other refugee volunteers at the Rederij Lampedusa organisation, Mo offers an alternative canal tour that focuses on the vital role that migrants have played in the long history of Amsterdam. The company is named after the Mediterranean island that has been a primary entry point for migrants since the early 2000s. The fleet? Two of the North African refugee boats that have made the crossing to Lampedusa. www.rederijlampedusa.nl

‘THERE WAS NO OXYGEN TO INHALE AT ALL THAT WAS NOT SATURATED IN MARIJUANA’’

‘WE ARE RESPONSIBLE PEOPLE AND WILL NOT TRY TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF A FRIEND IN NEED.’

HISTORIAN SIMON SCHAMA ON THE SMOKEY SIXTIES IN AMSTERDAM.

AMSTERDAM MAYOR EBERHARD VAN DER LAAN EXPLAINS THE CITY’S POST-BREXIT STANCE

SPLIT PERSONALITIES

MAKING WAVES If you spot a bunch of people flailing around in the Amsterdam canals on 11 September this year, chances are you shouldn’t throw them a floatation device. It’s on this occasion every year that cruise boats make way for up to 2,500 brave swimmers as the Amsterdam City Swim returns. Held to raise money for a motor neurone disease charity, the event sees swimmers raising a minimum sponsorship before taking the plunge to pound a gruelling 2,000-metre course through Amsterdam’s famous waterways. The first Canal Swim was organised in 2012 by a group of Amsterdammers whose friend was a motor neurone disease sufferer. Among the soggy sprinters was a certain Princess Maxima, now Queen of the Netherlands. The event has gone from strength to strength – last year alone it raised more than 1.8 million. Show your support and splash the cash. www.amsterdamcityswim.nl

When it comes to the décor of its four most prestigious guest rooms, the newly restored Pulitzer Amsterdam hotel has taken its cue from the kind of Amsterdam eccentrics who might have populated its prestigious canalside buildings since the Golden Age. The bibliophile’s suite, for example, features a fl oor-to-ceiling archway made of books, whereas the musician-themed one boasts a wall of trumpets. Suite dreams! Prinsengracht 315-331 www.pulitzeramsterdam.com

AUTONOMOUS AUTOBUS A driverless bus made a historic trip through Greater Amsterdam earlier this summer. Mercedes-Benz’s Future Bus became the first to shuttle passengers on a public transit system when it successfully followed a 20 km rapid transit route between Schiphol airport and nearby Haarlem, navigating tight corners, crossroads and pedestrian areas completely without human intervention. The bus uses GPS, radar and a dozen cameras to interact directly with traffic lights and other infrastructure. It can safely travel at speeds of up to 43 miles per hour.

BARK TO NATURE The world over, urban skylines are dominated by concrete and steel structures. But recent developments in timber technology mean that wood, which is more sustainable than traditional tower block materials, is now just as fire-resistant as the man-made alternatives. The unofficial race for the world’s tallest wooden skyscraper is on, and naturally Amsterdam – with its ship-building heritage – is among the frontrunners. Due to start construction in the second half of next year, HAUT is a 21-storey timber residential tower planned for the Amstelquartier beside the River Amstel. ‘The use of timber in high-rise buildings is one of the most keenly discussed innovations in the construction industry worldwide,’ said a spokesperson for Team V Architecture. ‘It represents an important step towards the carbon-neutral city.’ www.haut.nl

sep & oct 2016

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘MY KIDS KEEP TELLING ME AMSTERDAM SMELLS LIKE THEIR BABYSITTER’S CAR.’

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TOURING MUSICIAN KELLY WILLIS TALKS SENSE AHEAD OF HER GIG AT PARADISO (@KELLYQROBISON)

‘I’D HEARD GREAT THINGS ABOUT IVO VAN HOVE.’

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TOP 5 to do

Residents of Uithoorn – the charming riverside town just south of Amsterdam – will spot a very familiar face when they tune in to the new season of ‘Heel Holland Bakt’, the baking contest based on ‘The Great British Bake Off’. When she’s not cooking up a storm, contestant Dagmar Oudshoorn-Tinga is busy being the town’s mayor. Dagmar, 43, says that her speciality is sausage with kale – although viewers will no doubt be interested to learn about her policy on bun control (sorry).

MAYOR CAKE

SUPERSTAR ACTOR JUDE LAW ON HIS DECISION TO COME TO AMSTERDAM NEXT SUMMER TO STAR IN VAN HOVE’S PLAY ‘OBSESSION’

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 ADE One of the world’s leading Electronic Dance Music events returns to the city with 2,200 artists throwing concerts and parties in more than 120 Amsterdam venues – but also, many industry-focused events such as debates, lectures and workshops.

19-23 October Various locations www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl

2 UNSEEN PHOTO FESTIVAL Along the now legendary fair that invests the Westergasfabriek in September, the Unseen festival immerses the streets of Amsterdam in photography with a slew of special events and exhibits. 16-25 September Various locations www.unseenamsterdam.com

3 FRINGE FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival’s quirky little sister graces more than 40 of the city’s stages with fun, kooky, avant-garde performances. 1-11 September Various locations www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

4 NEU NOW A platform for emerging artists, Neu Now presents the work of the fresh crops of graduates from the world’s leading art institutions. 14-18 September Westergasfabriek www.neunow.eu

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5 DREAM OUT LOUD The Stedelijk Museum presents the visionary projects of designers who aspire (and inspire) to find socially and environmentally conscious solutions to the planet’s issues. Ongoing Stedelijk Museum www.stedelijk.nl

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‘STROOPWAFELS AND SPRINKLES ARE THE DREAM!!!!!’ ENGLISH SINGER DUA LIPA TWEETS HER APPRECIATION FOR AMSTERDAM’S SWEET TREATS (@DUALIPA)

NEEDLES TO SAY…

KEEPING IT REEL The new Virtual Reality Cinema on Oosterdokskade doesn’t have rows of seats in front of a screen. Instead moviegoers sit on swivel chairs and don Sennheiser headphones and a Samsung Gear VR for an experience that’s communal, but also weirdly isolating – a bit like a silent disco. Don’t go expecting the latest X-Men adventure. The 35-minute show is a series of clips designed to demonstrate VR’s immersive powers. www.thevrcinema.com

A LENGTHY STUDY A century of investigation has emphatically confirmed the stereotype that Dutch men are the tallest on Earth, averaging 182.5 cm in their socks. Dutch women are the second tallest, having been pipped at the post by the lanky ladies of Latvia. It wasn’t always thus – when the survey began in 1914, Dutch men were a lowly 12th and Dutch women were in 38th place.

Forget Pokémon Go – it’s time to go Mokum ink-spotting. Amsterdam newspaper Parool has compiled a selection of the best Amsterdam-themed tattoos that are roaming around on the bodies of residents today. Keep your eyes peeled for Orlando Smeekes, the footballer who has a stencil of the late folk singer Andre Hazes on his neck. Meanwhile, fashion designer Bonne Reijn is as straight as a Roman road, but told the paper that his tattoo of two cropped-haired gentlemen kissing typifies the free spirit of Amsterdam: ‘It gives me that carefree feeling you get when you have a free day to yourself, cycling around the canals.’ Of course, all great tattoos tell as story, and Christiaan Prins Young’s tribute to the neighbourhood ‘Amstredam’ (sic) Noord is one of a boozy night out with a drunk tattoo artist.

PART I UP CLOSE

dance, dance, dance

DANCE, DANCE, DANCE Amsterdam sets the beat with its heaps of clubs, festivals, world-famous DJs and its yearly anthem to dance music: ADE, which returns in full force 19-23 October. 24-HOUR FUN: THE VENUES THAT NEVER SLEEP In 2013 the municipality of Amsterdam granted five 24hour licenses to venues outside the city centre. At the time, the mayor’s office spoke of the aim to create healthy competition between central, established hotels and restaurants and more remote venues. Originality was one of the main criteria, and the eight businesses currently holding a 24-hour license have it by the truckload. Three of these – the A’DAM Tower, Tolhuistuin and De Overkant – are located in Amsterdam Noord, which Sander Groet, Founding Partner of the A’DAM Tower, describes as ‘what the South Bank in London was 20 years ago’. And by that, he probably means a district transitioning from industrial glory gone by to a creative hotspot with an admiring nod to its heritage.

As ADE celebrates its twentieth birthday and the A’DAM Tower puts the finishing touches on its 22storey Mecca to entertainment, Amsterdam finds itself in the spotlight of the world's dance industry. text Catalina Iorga

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

ontrary to popular belief, tulips aren’t the most profitable Dutch export: industrial machinery, oil and electronics still reign supreme. But there's also a somewhat unusual export making waves: dance music. In 2015, ING estimated that the country’s electronic music industry has an export value of €200 million. Each year, the Netherlands hosts more than 170 dance festivals, visited by around 2.7 million fans. Five Dutchies are part of the top 10 in DJ Mag’s 2015 Top 100 DJs, while Amsterdam’s Club AIR ranks 30th in DJ Mag’s 2015 Top 100 Clubs, despite having opened just six years ago. ID&T, one of the major players worldwide in dance events (Mysteryland, Sensation, Welcome to the Future), was sold to American giant SFX Entertainment in 2013 for $130 million. Amsterdam plays a leading role in the resounding success of the dance industry, whose only direction seems to be up, quite literally. September will see the completion of the A’DAM Tower, which transforms Shell’s former headquarters on the River IJ into 22 floors dedicated to art, dance, music, food and the creative industry. Meanwhile, for five days in October, the city is abuzz with the 21st edition of

the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), the world’s ultimate platform for business and inspiration in electronic music, which expects a record-breaking 375,000 visitors. MAKING HISTORY ‘When I was 17, my friends brought me to a warehouse rave in Amsterdam’s then desolate Eastern Docklands. I instantly became addicted to this new music and energy,’ says Sander Groet, owner of Club AIR, co-founder of the A’DAM Tower and initiator of Mysteryland, the country’s very first dance festival. ‘Before raves came along, you could only go to disco nights. Raves created a different atmosphere, with a stronger feeling of togetherness,’ he adds. In the late 80s, the city’s electronic music events were confined to industrial venues or conventions centres. That would soon change with the 1987 advent of RoXY, arguably the most sorely missed Amsterdam clubbing institution, which enjoyed 12 glorious years before a dramatic fire – set off by fireworks during its founder’s funeral – burned the place down in 1999. But the club’s heritage is indelible. DJ Isis – who got her big break through a residency at RoXY – once described it to VICE as ‘a uniquely safe and free environment, in

PART I UP CLOSE

dance, dance, dance

THE FESTIVAL PIONEER: SANDER GROET In 1993, then-student Sander Groet, now owner of Club AIR and founding partner of the A’DAM Tower, created Mysteryland, the first electronic music festival in the Netherlands. ‘Dance was becoming a big thing in Dutch clubs, so I wanted to take dance lovers outdoors,’ he says. ‘A household name for all dance music fans, Mysteryland grew into a phenomenon with replicas in the US and Chile as well as a Belgian counterpart, Tomorrowland. ‘Dutch festival culture is unique. People here are creative, entrepreneurial and very professional organisers,’ Groet concludes. With more than 300 festivals hosted each year, Amsterdam is living proof of this creative spirit.

This 20-year-old DJ and producer cut his teeth in local clubs such as AIR before taking the global dance festival circuit by storm. Born Martijn Gerard Garritsen in the leafy Amsterdam suburb of Amstelveen, the house wunderkind was inspired to make his own beats after watching Tiësto perform at the 2004 Olympics opening ceremony. In his spare time, he hangs out with bestie Justin Bieber and makes his 7.4 million Instagram followers jealous with his jetset lifestyle. Catch 2015’s third most popular DJ in the world during a two-night bash, one of which is ADE’s only all-ages event of the year. 21-22 OCT Amsterdam RAI www.martingarrix.com

YOUNG SUPERSTAR: MARTIN GARRIX

13 which anyone – gays, fashionistas, alternatives – could express themselves’. Groet also fondly remembers parties at iT, Amsterdam’s other seminal house club – once the most infamous gay venue in Europe, where extravagant cross-dressers and hunky male strippers rubbed elbows with celebrities like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Grace Jones. When iT’s former digs became available in 2010, Groet jumped at the opportunity and opened Club AIR, one of the city’s current electronic hotspots. Five new festivals were born out of this initiative: Amsterdam Open Air, Buiten Westen, TikTak, Valhalla and Milkshake. Groet describes the last’s essence as ‘what Amsterdam stands for: the opportunity to be yourself and take pride in your freedom and tolerance’. AN ICONIC LOCATION That progressive ethos will certainly be present at Shelter, an underground club – both literally and figuratively speaking – situated in the basement of the new A’DAM Tower, formerly known as the Overhoeks Tower and Shell’s headquarters for more than three decades. With a capacity of just 900 guests, Shelter’s stripped concrete walls will host innovative, less commercial techno house, as opposed to AIR, which caters to a more mainstream audience. ‘We just

wanted to add something new to the city’s nightlife. Amsterdam’s appeal doesn’t come from one particular club, but the diversity of its nightlife,’ he modestly quips. Shelter is fortunate to be one of the city’s eight venues with a 24-hour license, and its Managing Director Merijn van den Heuvel and Programmer Kolja Verhage see that as less of an excuse for non-stop partying and more of a chance to reach audiences, such as the working crowd, that want to go out for a few hours on Sunday morning before recharging for the new week’s grind. This new breed of partygoers could easily power up in the Tower, given that the building comes with a sophisticated rotating restaurant called Moon, the more affordable café MA'DAM, burger joint The Butcher Social Club as well as boutique hotel Sir Adam. ‘The municipality of Amsterdam didn’t go for the highest bid. They could have entrusted accountants with this iconic building, yet they chose our vision: a vertical city to add a bit more fun and a ‘wow’ factor to the city,’ Groet proudly explains. A’DAM also supports a strong business and creative community. Among its many music-minded tenants are ID&T, Sony Music Netherlands (who recently announced the move from Hilversum to the capital) and ADAM&Co., the city’s first members-only networking club for creative minds, entrepreneurs and change-makers.

In just two years, RADION has become one of the city’s top dance music venues, turning a new leaf in Amsterdam’s history of urban transformation powered by dance music. Housed in the once abandoned Free University’s Faculty of Dentistry building in Amsterdam West, this club/café/exhibition space is the heir of Pand 14. Before the latter shuttered in 2014, it had grown from an experimental squat to a cultural venue with a 24-hour license, which RADION also holds. Make the most of its round-the-clock programming with a sophisticated ADE line-up, which includes new Berlin-based techno pioneers Reclaim Your City (19 Oct), Detroit techno legend Theo Parrish (23 Oct) and two Breakfast Club sessions for the diehard early birds (22 & 23 Oct). 19-23 OCT www.radionamsterdam.nl

TECH HOUSE INNOVATOR: DJ ISIS This Amsterdam born-and-bred tech-house DJ started out at the tender age of 17 with a residency at the legendary RoXY. During more than two decades in the business, Isis chalked off highlights such as opening for the late Prince in 1992, mixing at the 2000 edition of the prestigious Holland Festival, playing for 100,000 people at the 2009 Copenhagen Climate Summit. As Night Mayor of Amsterdam from 2010 to 2012, Isis nurtured local nightlife by fostering the dialogue between the municipality, entrepreneurs, artists and clubgoers. She’s still part of an expert team – led by mayor Eberhard van der Laan – that grants 24-hour licenses to cultural venues. www.djisis.nl

RADION

PART I UP CLOSE

dance, dance, dance

ADE LIVE ADE’s programming is becoming more extensive and exciting each year, and new event ADE Live is a testament to that. As live electronic music is gaining a more prominent role on the global scene, ADE decided to give a new platform to rising young talent. Among the headliners of Day 1 (20 Oct) at Melkweg are RÜFÜS, a Sydney-based artist who makes atmospheric indie-electronic dance-pop, and SUUUNS, a Canadian band keen on electronic rock. Day 2 (21 Oct) at Paradiso and Sugar Factory includes performances from another Canadian, Jessy Lanza, an R&B-inspired synth-pop vocalist, and Dutch duo Polynation, who start musical conversation based on improvisation and a band-like approach to electronica.

20-21 OCT www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl

ADE Q&A SESSIONS AT THE I AMSTERDAM STORE For your daytime dose of the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), you can pop by the I Amsterdam Store in the Central Station, a 300 square meter affair aiming to bring you the best of Amsterdam’s iconic brands. For five days in October, you’ll have the chance to hear famous DJs, artists and producers share their dance music industry insights.

Ditch your dodgy hotel digs for the ADE SLEEP/OVER, a luxurious pop-up camping that brings an outdoor festival vibe to the post-industrial chic NDSM shipyard in A msterdam North. The camping site comes with more than 400 heated sleeping pads and its own programme of music events, artist talks and contemporary art installations and performances at venues such as the greenhouse structure of the Noorderlicht Café and popular shipping-container-concoction Pllek. The house-oriented line-up includes Hot Since 82, Laurent Garnier, Ben UFO and Dubfire. Don’t miss SLEEP/OVER’s epicentre, a typical Dutch spiegeltent decorated with mirrors and stained glass. 19-24 OCT www.adesleepover.com

ADE SLEEP/OVER

PART I UP CLOSE

dance, dance, dance

ADE is the world’s leading EDM event, where the biggest deals in the industry are closed A’DAM MUSIC SCHOOL This new music school will give music lessons to 500 talented local youngsters who cannot afford them. ‘It’s for all kinds of musical inclination: classical, instrumental, vocal or DJing,’ explains Sander Groet, founding partner of the A’DAM Tower. The school’s ambassadors and coaches – superstar DJ Martin Garrix, pop-jazz songstress Caro Emerald and Jamai, musical theatre performer and winner of Dutch Idols – reflect the range of genres being taught at the school. ‘We set up the A’DAM Music School as a charity to give something back to the city,’ adds Groet. The school is still fundraising, so get some karma points by heading to their website and clicking the donations button. www.adammusicschool.nl

AWAKENINGS Awakenings is back with a bigger bang, bringing five thumping nights of techno to the Gashouder, a circular behemoth of a venue that used to be a gas storage container back in the Westerpark’s industrial heyday. Each of the first four nights will be hosted by DJs Len Faki, Drumcode, Joris Voorn and Joseph Capriati, respectively. Keep an eye out on 22 October for German veteran Sven Väth, who’s coming back to ADE after three years of absence, and on 21 October for Kölsch, a two-time winner of ADE’s DJ Cook Off. And don’t you dare miss Awakening’s ADE Closing Party on 23 October, a 12-hour marathon featuring big names such as Berghain resident Marcel Dettmann. 19-23 OCT www.awakenings.com

WIN 2 TICKE TO AM TS F Send

AMF While ADE paints the town red, its partner in crime AMF takes over the city’s most colossal venues for a whooping five days of music spun by world-renowned DJS and mesmerizing productions – the sets, installations and lighting alone are worth the detour. Between 19 and 23 October, the Amsterdam ArenA, Heineken Music Hall and the Ziggo Dome are hosting such iconic names as Dutch stalwart Tiësto, who will be ticking off the 500th episode of his highly influential Clublife radio special on 21 October at Ziggo, and Axwell ? Ingrosso, who are celebrating their post-Swedish House Mafia success on 22 October at Heineken Music Hall. AMF opens with DJ MAG’s 2016 DJ Top100 award ceremony and party, when it will be revealed if Belgian duo Dimitri Vegas & Like Mike retained their crown.

an em 10 Octo ail by marke ber to ting@i amster dam.co with th m e subje c t: 'WIN A MF' & tell u s why y ou should win!

19-23 OCT www.amf-festival.com

Hey Amsterdam,

/whats-on The ultimate guide to discover whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on in Amsterdam.

iamsterdam.com/whats-on

sep & oct 2016

PART II 20 23 24 29 30 31

ENTERTAINMENT

'AMSTERDAM HAS DEVELOPED A COMPLEX AND COMPELLING CULTURAL SCENE, WITH MANY NEW INITIATIVES.' Pierre Audi, Artistic Director of the Dutch National Opera, on the evolution of Amsterdam since he arrived in 1988.

PHOTOGRAPHY IN MOTION GOING FOR GOLD FRINGE SETS THE STAGE THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS

SHORES LIKE YOU Scarlett Hooft Graafland is a seasoned photographer, educated at the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague and the Parsons School of Design in New York City, who has gained international recognition in recent years thanks to the peculiarity of her work. She travels to remote locations around the globe, from Sweden and the Emirates to Vanuatu, where she takes breathtaking landscape photographs, in which her somewhat incongruous subjects and the incredible beauty of the natural backdrops battle for attention. Each of her tableaux demand further reflection, telling stories about exotic locales, demonstrating the difficulty of finding unspoiled lands, but also placing focus on human issues such as migration. FROM 10 SEPTEMBER Huis Marseille, Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl

With many great exhibitions and the Unseen Photo Fair and Festival, September is definitely photography month in Amsterdam – and even nationwide, as Fotoweek celebrates the medium at various institutions and museums throughout the country. The fourth edition of this 10-day event, a joint initiative of FOAM and the Dutch Photo Museum, chose ‘Look, this is me!’ as its 2016 theme, putting the spotlight on portrait photography and reflecting on the relationships between photographers and their subjects. With a rich programme of exhibits, discussions and activities, Fotoweek starts after the announcement of the new Photographer Laureate on 7 September. 9-18 SEPTEMBER Various Locations www.fotoweek.nl

FOTOWEEK

unseen photography

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Photography in motion

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This autumn, at the Unseen Photography Fair and its younger sister the Unseen Photo Festival, photography is an artform that's anything but standing still.

UNTITLED 33, FROM THE SERIES TAMARIND GHOST, 2016 © TIANE DOAN NA CHAMPASSAK_KAHMANN GALLERY

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

16-25 SEPTEMBER Various locations www.unseenamsterdam.com

any people imagine that, since the revolutionary advent of digital photography, the medium cannot evolve much past the amount of pixels crammed into an image or the wonders that new versions of Photoshop can achieve. This is why events such as Unseen are essential – not only do they treat us to dream amounts of visual thrills, they also showcase the surprising levels of creativity that photographers can summon. At the fifth edition of the Unseen Photo Fair, from 23 to 25 September, 150 international visual artists will share slices of the pie that

the Gashouder (the round behemoth building at the Westergasfabriek) becomes for three days. Their works demonstrate a scope going way beyond portraits vs. landscapes. In parallel, the Unseen Photo Festival will sprawl across the Spaarndammerbuurt from 16 to 25 September, engaging the public with special events and exhibitions, revealing even more photographic treasures from established and emerging talents – while honouring its host neighbourhood. NEW PERSPECTIVES Rixt Hulshoff Pol, the director

of Unseen since last September, travels year-round with her team to unearth inspiring talents from all over the world. ‘Photography is developing at lightning speed and many artists offer new, provocative and unexpected perspectives,’ she says. One of these is the return to older, more traditional techniques – but integrated in novel ways, which is the concept behind the exhibition curated by iconic photographer Anton Corbijn on show at the Museum Het Schip during the festival. 'TOUCHED – Craftsmanship in Photography' brings together the works of 12 photographers

highlights

ONTDEK JE STAD 24 UUR LANG!

24H ZUID

IAMSTERDAM.NL/24H

24H Amsterdam is the opportunity to experience the city in new ways, when, for a blistering 24hour period, a neighbourhood’s shops, clubs and cultural institutions throw open their doors for some special surprises. The Zuid edition offers a programme chock-full of activities such as the Urban Safari by RAUW trainers, karate lessons by the Nippo Do black belts, special visits to the gardens of the Rijksmuseum, a Portuguese delicacy tasting at A Loja – and for the night owls, a scary safari in the Amsterdamse Bos from 4 AM to 7 AM!

ZUID 24 SEPTEMBER

24H ZUID

WILHELMINA HUISKAMER FESTIVAL

RIPLEY'S

24 SEPTEMBER Various locations www.iamsterdam.com

WILHELMINA HUISKAMER FESTIVAL

who take the artform to another level, such as Antony Cairns’ eerie collotypes or Susanna Kraus’ monumental, lifesize-format portraits. INTERACTIVE APPEAL ‘The fair is our yearly harvest of new work, but it’s curated by the galleries. At the festival we can show our own perspective,’ says Hulshoff Pol. That’s what makes the festival, which is already impressively mature at just a year old, so intricately appealing. With many interactive exhibits, combining local colour with international flair and transcending art to broach political and social

commentary are but a few of the event’s magic tricks. ‘We want a real festival atmosphere: immersive, and connecting the city with new photography,’ adds an enthusiastic Hulshoff Pol. Among many other initiatives, the festival got local retirees involved in a selfie project; Studio Aleppo offers portraits by renowned photographer Koos Breukel while honouring local Syrian refugees; and the Josilda da Conceiçao Gallery turns the spotlight on innovative Japanese artists. Official campaign artists Christto & Andrew, who are exhibiting 'The Politics

of Sport' at the Brediusbad swimming pool, are excited about this collaboration: ‘Amsterdam is filled with creative energy and Unseen offers something very cutting edge that breaks away from standard photography fairs.’ Their imagery for the campaign highlights the theme of clairvoyance – because, while ‘it’s not possible to see the future of photography’, Hulshoff Pol concludes, ‘At Unseen, you get a glimpse.’ The twin fair and festival, with such a rich menu, promise to do a lot more than dish out gargantuan amounts of eye candy.

The eleventh edition of this jovial local favourite takes the audience from living room to living room on Oud-West’s Wilhelminastraat for a slew of performances by Amsterdam-based artists, ranging from music to cabaret and theatre (in Dutch). Each group of performers has their own style: Lady Dandelion with their forlorn songs about love and hope, or ELSA Bhor’s swinging mix of rumba and funk, or winner of the Sonneveld Award 2016 Stefano Keizers’ understated lyrics about humanity. The festival headquarters are located at Figurantenbar, where a neighbourhood BBQ will accompany the events. 2-3 SEPTEMBER Wilhelminastraat www.theaterinhuis.nl

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RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT? Robert Ripley was a famous humanist and explorer who travelled around the globe in search of fascinating curiosities. Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Amsterdam displays an unbelievable collection of curious items from ancient cultures, from real shrunken heads from the Amazon and a sevenmetre tall megarobot made of car parts to a Russian spacesuit and a replica of a traditional windmill. This great collection of oddities also contains life-size wax figures of remarkable people from around the world, and visitors can see how Amsterdam would look under water – or, fittingly this month, learn more about the music scene in the city.

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Dam 25 www.ripleys.com/amsterdam

the 2nd most popular spot in Amsterdam welcomes you.

sep & oct 2016

PART II

Going for gold The 2016 Olympics may be over, but the sports season in Amsterdam is just getting started. text Lauren Comiteau

SWIMMING What started out in 2011 as a charity event with 14 pals swimming for a friend with ALS has turned into the massive Amsterdam City Swim (famously featuring then-Princess Maxima in its inaugural edition), which last year saw 2,500 participants raising almost €2 million for the charity. Ten-year-old Madeline van der Does is one of the 200 children participating. She raised about €1,500 by swimming 700 meters in 2015. ‘It’s good to raise money for a good cause, and I like to swim,’ says the young athlete. You can cheer on the wet-suited swimmers from the bridges of the Amstel on 11 September. BOXING Another Amstel-situated event is the annual Ben Bril Memorial Boxing Gala, now in its tenth year. Taking place in the plush Royal Theatre Carré, the country’s largest boxing event is named after the famous Jewish Amsterdam boxer. If you prefer your boxing out of the arena, there are a slew of rings in the city that offer boxing lessons both inside and outside. In what seems to have become a city obsession, would-be boxers can be seen throwing

punches on Amsterdam’s green spaces from the Museumplein to Amsterdamse Bos. ‘I can’t imagine a better workout than boxing – for cardio, strength, core training, upper body and coordination,’ says sports enthusiast Jasper Peterich, who lost nearly 20 kilos in just a few months. ‘It’s just a very fun way of working out.’ RUNNING And while Amsterdam may be more renown for its cycling, the autumn features two races for runners: September’s Dam tot Damloop and October’s TCS Amsterdam Marathon, with both a full- and half-marathon version. Marjolijn de Cocq has run the Dam tot Damloop twice and the Amsterdam half-marathon three times. Although a knee injury will keep her from participating this year, the elation and sheer willpower of running marathons in her forties has kept her going. Most spectacular about the marathon, she says, is beginning and ending in Amsterdam’s Olympic Stadium, built for the summer Olympics that took place almost 90 years ago. ‘That’s history,’ says de Cocq. ‘The stadium is packed and everyone is cheering. All the great runners have run there. And I did it, too.’

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

fringe festival

Fringe sets the stage As summer winds down, Amsterdam’s cultural scene fills up with an exciting theatre season.

text Lily Heaton

rom 1-11 September, numerous local and international artists and performers will put Amsterdam in the spotlight with quirky productions. The city itself takes centre stage for 11 offthe-wall days, as 40 locations open their doors to showcase roughly 80 different avant-garde music, art, theatre and dance performances during the Amsterdam Fringe Festival. With an unusual programme curated to open audiences' minds, actress and writer Loveday Smith says, ‘What makes Fringe special to me is the diversity that’s on offer.’ Influenced by her own experience in the performing-arts world, her one-woman show at Toon, Maurice Le Noir Presents: Untitled (a conflict with concretism), reflects on the intersection of art, music and gender. The vast array of performances also includes Dutch magician Fritz with a Z’s enchanted illusions in A Trip Down Magic Lane; an exploration of forgotten memories using lights, shadow, dance and music in All Beneath Heaven, a CREA production with an eclectic mix of Japanese, Dutch and Polish influences; and The Guest House by

Dansgroep Haarlem, an experimental dance-theatre hybrid inspired by stories of refugees that invites audience participation, on show at Felix Meritis. In conjunction with its international siblings in Edinburgh and many others cities worldwide, the Amsterdam edition includes ‘Best of Fringe’, highlighting top seasonal productions. Actor-director Igor Vrebac says, ‘I personally enjoy Amsterdam Fringe for the diversity, creativity and ample opportunities young makers have to grow.’ His own performance at Compagnietheater, Macho Macho, sheds light on often overlooked objectification of masculinity in a well-muscled dance duet. THEATRE GALORE In the mood for alternative, affordable amusement? Taking place over the same period, the budget-friendly Free Fringe Festival Amsterdam brings entertainment to multiple, unique venues around town. With assorted underground music, theatre and performance

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don’t miss these Everyone is welcome to pitch their initiative on the festival’s website, and Magneet will facilitate the creation of the chosen projects at the festival grounds on Zeeburgereiland in Amsterdam Oost. Musicians, installation artists, theatre performers and all other types of artists are invited, including ice-cream makers, adult-size ball-pit builders and henna painters. The result is a really fun weekend of free-flowing creative fantasy come true with lively music, awe-inspiring constructions, unique artwork and kooky performances – with a very important ‘leave no trace’ motto.

MAGNEET FESTIVAL

9-11 SEPTEMBER Zeeburgereiland www.magnetfestival.nl

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art on offer, festival organiser Sam Heady states, ‘Amsterdam Free Fringe is truly the city's festival. It celebrates the free spaces and artists who work here year round.’ Fringe is the companion event to the less bizarre annual Dutch Theatre Festival and award show, which takes over 12 centrally located theatres to highlight the very best contemporary Dutch and Belgian performances of the season, such as Forever Young, a satirical solo performance of superstars in rap culture by Marijn Brossard, who fills Frascati Theatre with hip-hop beats as his alter-ego Young Ludo. Dutch a bit rusty? Fret not! All three festivals offer plenty to choose from without a language barrier. Local theatre producer Annelies Hendrikse says, ‘Amsterdam Fringe gives theatre makers a wonderful opportunity to create and share unique performances with an international audience.’ 1-11 SEPTEMBER www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl www.freefringefestivalamsterdam.com www.tf.nl

The fourth edition of this annual short film festival takes place in… a subway station. For two nights, Station Bullewijk is transformed into a temporary movie theatre, which screens a wide range of shorts where the city of Amsterdam is either the featured star or at least the story’s backdrop. While language may be an issue for nonDutch speakers, some of the films are international, such as Dear White People, an awardwinning short by American filmmaker Justin Simien, which debates one of the hottest topics at the moment: racism and white privilege in America. The programme is also ripe with social gatherings, good food, debates, poetry, spoken word and theatre.

9-10 SEPTEMBER Metro Station Bullewijk www.metromovies.nl

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INTERNATIONAL STORYTELLING FESTIVAL The old but gold art of storytelling is anything but dead, as the International Storytelling Festival celebrates its ninth birthday at all the local hotspots, such as Café de Ceuvel, the EYE Film Museum and Podium Mozaïek. From 29 October through 6 November, a diverse bunch of storytellers from all over the world will flock to the city to delight crowds of all ages with their stories. Such renowned guests as Peter Chand, Nell Phoenix and Tim Ralphs, as well as a flurry of local talents, will don costumes and yield props or musical instruments to liven up their tales centred on this year’s theme: Portraits.

METRO MOVIES

FROM 29 OCTOBER Various locations www.storytellingfestival.nl

foto Merijn Roubroeks

MUSEUM TIPS

Step into Van Gogh’s world

foto DigiDaan

Explore the architectual ‘Amsterdamse School’ style

NEMO Science Museum

Discover the world of science & technology

Scheepvaartmuseum

Learn how the sea has shaped our Dutch culture

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

Discover culture. Join us. wearepublic.nl

Photography: Lonneke van der Palen

Van Gogh museum

Museum Het Schip

foto Eddo Hartmann

Emile Schuffenecker, Man met pijp (naar Van Goghs Zelfportret), ca. 1892-1900, krijt op papier, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Stichting)

amsterdammusea.org

featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

‘We must be open to all’

ORPHEU THE WIZARD Born: 1982, Amsterdam Talent: Amsterdam-born-and-bred DJ Orpheu the Wizard (Orpheu De Jong in civilian life) is a growing force on the world’s dance-music stage with his unconventional yet delightful sets – which are quite eclectic too, as he surprisingly spins disco, afro, house, wave, experimental and ambient without missing a beat. There are abundant rumours that Orpheu (his real name, strangely appropriate, as Orpheus was a legendary musician and prophet in Greek mythology) is not only talented but also an all-around nice, modest and down-to-earth guy: ‘I just really like finding out about music I didn't know before and sharing it with people by playing it to them.’ Often present on the festival scene (he’s a regular at Dekmantel, for which he also designs a lot of artwork), he’s become most well-known in the past couple of years for his ultra-popular radio station Red Light Radio, which he co-founded with Hugo van Heijningen in 2009: ‘When we started the radio it really seemed like all the things I did before came together.’ The station has picked up a lot of steam lately with guest appearances at Spanish festival Sonar or even SXSW in Texas and will be an airwave fixture during ADE – as will Orpheu, who will be a guest at many different venues. 23 September at De School 24 September at De Marktkantine www.redlightradio.net

Neu Now is an international art festival that presents the works of the crème de la crème of the creators fresh out of art academies all over the world. This seventh edition will showcase 30 works from artists hailing from 18 different countries. The added goal of the festival is to serve as a platform that promotes empowerment, networking and collaboration for this fresh crop of emerging talents, which span a very wide range of fluid disciplines, such as sculpture, porcelain work, installations, performance art, film and photography. In addition to the exhibitions and performances, the programme is chock-full of inspiring screenings, workshops and artist talks.

NEU NOW FESTIVAL

14-18 SEPTEMBER Westergasfabriek www.neunow.eu

KLIK ANIMATION FESTIVAL All eyes on EYE this October, with six whole days of the world’s best animated shorts and features. KLIK Animation Festival not only offers screenings of the best animated work out there – including that of many award-winning guests, such as Dan Meth, who is creating cartoons and animations especially for the Festival’s social media platforms – they also put together presentations and workshops to spread the love, culture and techniques. Plus they throw a whole bunch of parties, like the KLIK KLIK BOOM party, and of course they hand out awards and prizes – all the trimmings of a truly animated week.

25-30 OCTOBER EYE Film Museum www.klik.amsterdam

CELLO BIENNALE Fans of cello rejoice every two years when this event with a gargantuan programme of international cello performances finally returns to the Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ and the Bimhuis for nine full days, from early morning late into the night. The list of invited cellists features such prominent names as Antonio Meneses, the famed musician from Brazil, Russian Ivan Monighetti and Alexander Rudin, and Swedish master Toorleif Thedeen. In total, six orchestras, 11 ensembles and 37 soloists will grace the twin stages with concerts ranging from the classical (‘Bach & Breakfast’) to special events such as a Spanish evening featuring young flamenco talents.

20-29 OCTOBER Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ and Bimhuis www.cellobiennale.nl

highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Amsterdam Halloween Festival

Death becomes us text Tamar Bosschaart

A Dream Out Loud

The future of design text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

very two years, the Stedelijk Museum hosts an exhibition of emerging talents from a specific art discipline. 2016’s harvest, entitled ‘Dream Out Loud’, has an extra kick, though, as the designers selected by the jury not only show tremendous artistic promise but also have intelligent aspirations to lend their crafts to the betterment of civilisation. Originally, social design wasn’t a purposeful theme of the competition, but so many of the 400 applicants presented forward-thinking projects, in such a vast array of forms and disciplines, that the jury had to face the facts. ‘We joked that we were going to see Dutch Design 2.0,’ says Lennart Booij, curator of the exhibit and member of the jury, ‘but then we found an inordinate amount of entries excited about the future, helping to design sustainable solutions.’ Among those, Agi Haines collaborates with other artists and scientists to improve human tissues and organs; and while her work is still in the realm of fiction today, it is nothing short of visionary.

Other projects already have practical applications, using existing (or in some cases, very old) technologies in innovative ways, such as Daan Rosegaarde’s smog-free rings, or Marjan van Aubel’s ‘Current’ windows and tables, which are not only beautiful but also use dye-sensitised solar cells to generate electricity, much like photosynthesis does. ‘What I hope is that the exhibition will generate a lot of inspiration – internally, as you can’t become aware of all these solutions, as a producer or as a consumer, without questioning the status quo – but also a collaborative, public debate on ethics and technology,’ adds Booij. One of his favourite endeavours is the replacement of plastic polymers – a real environmental plague – with more sustainable alternatives. Dream Out Loud is much more than a collection of castle builders’ fantasies: it shows the arduous work of forward thinkers – and doers – who embrace beauty, hope and ingenuity. UNTIL 1 JANUARY 2017 Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

legendary gathering of quirky creatives, dark souls and free-spirited misfits from around the world, Amsterdam Spook presents five days of bloody good fun this Halloween. The Amsterdam Halloween Festival programme has something creepy for everyone: stay the night in a themed hotel room, dine to death at a Halloween feast or learn the gory glam of special-effects makeup. Brave an all-night horror movie marathon or delight in the frightfully costumed annual Halloween party. Amsterdam Spook’s dark dream of organising an annual Halloween festival was to put the city on the map as the European (haunted) home of Halloween. Today, over 4,000 die-hard fans travel from around the globe for the festival. The US, UK, Finland, Limburg, Kuwait – and the door is always open to new victims. Born from the underground, Amsterdam Spook’s cauldron of themes, costumes, décor, performers, SFX artists

and body painters make for a fun and genuine take on Halloween. Never ones to take it too seriously, the events favour realistic stab wounds over high-profile DJs or mass crowds. For the ‘Dead Space‘ sci-fi Halloween costume party, extra-terrestrials, aliens and celestial beings are invited to descend on the Hotel Arena. The 2016 theme is an ode to the imagination and artistry of sci-fi legend H.R. Giger. Taking costume cues from stories like Alien, Predator, Prometheus, Event Horizon, V, Star Trek, Star Wars, Total Recall, Mars Attacks and Guardians of the Galaxy, the crowd will be dressed to kill (and be awarded cash prizes). Expect a bloodcurdling lineup of over 35 artists and DJs, cosplayers, killer décor and an authentic Halloween experience that will haunt you through to next October. We’re dying to see you there. 26-31 OCTOBER Various locations www.halloweenamsterdam.com

THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

The Dutch National Opera is celebrating its 50th birthday by bringing home awards for Best Opera Company of the Year. Much of the credit can be laid at the feet of the French-Lebanese departing Artistic Director Pierre Audi. text Joke van der Weij & Elysia Brenner photo Sarah Wong

'I believe opera is an artform for the future.' 1. YOU HAD NEVER BEEN TO THE NETHERLANDS BEFORE YOU MOVED HERE FROM LONDON IN 1988. DID YOU KNOW WHAT YOU WANTED TO WORK TOWARDS THEN? Not really. I came here when the company wasn't really well known. My first focus was to create an identity for the DNO. That slowly succeeded, in an organic way. We all learned together what worked and what didn't. What did work was my creative partnership with (former Business Director) Truze Lodder – we had a great 25-year professional marriage. It's taken 30 years to get where we are now, but still...you're only as good as your last premiere. 2. YOU WERE ONLY 30 WHEN YOU MOVED TO AMSTERDAM, WHICH WAS AT THAT TIME A PRETTY WILD CITY. I didn't experience that much

myself. The first 10 years that I lived here I was completely focused on my work with the opera. It was only with my guest directors for the Toneelgroep Amsterdam that I got to know the Amsterdam art world a little better. The city itself I'm only getting to know a bit now that I have a family. 3. YOU'VE ORGANISED AROUND 2,700 PERFORMANCES HERE. YOU HAVE, BY AND LARGE, MADE THE DNO WHAT IT IS TODAY. WHAT MAKES THE DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA SO SPECIAL? It's the incredible consistency in quality over a long period of self-development. Plus the huge variety of styles and productions, which is unique to Amsterdam. You have operas with or without a story, experimental, classical, modern. At the same time, we

bring foreign productions here and often perform abroad – we're called the National Opera, but we're actually the International Opera. 4. THAT MAKES YOU FEEL FREE TO EXPERIMENT AS A DIRECTOR? Definitely. Operas often have timeless stories covering music, politics, social issues. The core of the opera repertoire is made up of no more than 60 titles, but with a new director, a different conductor or décor, they are made new again. I believe opera is an artform for the future. 5. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF AMSTERDAM'S CULTURAL DEVELOPMENT OVER THE PAST FEW DECADES? There's been constant, healthy development. With the Holland Festival [of which Audi was the Artistic Director for 10 years],

there was a phase when many artists were feeling insecure. People asked, ‘Aren't there too many cultural festivals for this relatively small city?’ But Amsterdam has developed a complex cultural scene, with many new initiatives like the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ and the EYE Film Museum. Now when I look around, I see a variety of compelling cultural scenes doing well. 6. AND NOW YOU LEAVE US... Oh no, that's a misunderstanding. In 2018, I am going to work on the Festival d’Aix-enProvence, but that's only three weeks per year. Amsterdam remains my home base, my home. I can't imagine leaving.

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time

White lies on the silver screen

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The Fraude Film Festival reveals all the dirty secrets text Bregtje Schudel

THURSDAY 13 (ONLY BY INVITATION) & FRIDAY 14 OCTOBER EYE IJPromenade 1 www.fraudefilmfestival.nl

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ow do you think up a film festival about fraud? For Rob Otjens, initiator of the festival, it happened on the job. As the owner of a security and risk-management firm, fraud is something he deals with on a regular basis. ‘Over the years I’ve met a lot of people who have encountered fraud first-hand,’ Otjens recalls during our meeting at the company’s headquarters in Naarden-Vesting. ‘And you won’t believe the stories some of these people would tell! I knew I wanted to share their experiences. I think they’re important stories to tell.’ And thus, in 2014, the first-ever fraud film festival in the world was born. While the first day is by invitation only, the second day is open to the public – but fear not, the programming on both days is the same. The film festival encompasses more than just fraud, though. ‘It’s also

about corruption and the abuse of power.’ The documentaries are divided into different themes, from corporate crime to food fraud, from identity theft to the financing of terrorism. The documentary The Price We Pay (2014) – about big-business tax evasion – falls into the ‘lawful but awful’ category, concerning practices that may not be illegal, but are definitely morally questionable. CONFESSIONS AND WHISTLEBLOWERS The eye-opening 2012 documentary It’s a Bet concerns match-fixing in sports, which is said to generate a yearly income of €500 billion – more than drug trafficking. ‘The amount of money being gambled away during a Champions League season can run up to a billion euros a game,’ says Otjens. ‘So the stakes are really, really high.

You will never see the world of sports the same again after watching this documentary.’ Every documentary is followed by a short Q&A, not only with experts, but also with people who committed fraud themselves. One of last year’s special guests was cyclist Michael Rasmussen, who in 2013 confessed to using performance-enhancing drugs for most of his professional career. This year will spotlight whistleblowers (guest speakers are still to be confirmed), coupled with the world premiere of a documentary by Dutch filmmaker Frans Bromet on the same subject. It’s the third edition of the festival, and it seems that fraud is here to stay. (‘It’s as old as man.’) Still, the festival is not meant to be depressing, Otjens stresses. ‘It’s meant to make you think, to start a discussion. We’re here to enlighten, not to judge.’

highlight

nightlife essentials

Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

15 TO 21 OCTOBER Westergasfabriek www.cinekid.nl

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Cinekid rganising a media festival for kids is no child’s play. That is something Cinekid – which is turning 30 this October – knows all too well. What started as a small-scale festival in De Meervaart in Osdorp, with one screening room with a television set and VCR, has grown into the biggest media festival for children in Europe, taking over most of the Westergasfabriek during the fall holiday. New media has become more and more important over the years. With its 1,200 square metres, Cinekid MediaLab may even be the biggest digital playground in the world, with the newest games and apps, virtual reality installations, workshops and masterclasses. Of course, the medium that started it all still takes main stage. This year’s opening film will be the world premiere of Uilenbal by Dutch director Simone van Dusseldorp. Van Dusseldorp is also this year’s special guest and has selected her personal top five movies for children and teenagers, including Ponyo, Edward Scissorhands and Zazie dans le métro. These are not the only classics you can revisit this festival: in honour of puppeteer Jim Henson (who would have turned 80 this year) there will be a screening of Labyrinth, and in celebration of Cinekid’s thirtieth birthday you get to see Rob Reiner’s 1986 classic Stand by Me (with a very young River Phoenix). Don’t miss James and the Giant Peach, based on the novel by Roald Dahl, and Pim & Pom: The Big Adventure, with drawings by legendary Dutch illustrator Fiep Westendorp (the Quentin Blake to our Dutch Roald Dahl, Annie M.G. Schmidt). Both Dahl and Westendorp would have turned 100 this year. In short, Cinekid is one big party you just don’t want to miss!

tion with Funkineven is Veronica Vasicka, whose New York-based label Minimal Wave is hugely American director Sam Gold popular in underground clubdirects Toneelgroep Amsterbing circles. dam in this performance of the Tennessee Williams classic 21 OCTOBER that catapulted him to fame in RADION, Louwesweg 1 1944. The memory-based sto- www.radionamsterdam.nl ry, told by main protagonist Tom, revolves around a dinner ROEF Rooftop terrace parties are a party at the apartment he cherished tradition in Amstershares with his fading Southern belle mother Amanda and dam, so it only makes sense his sister Laura, who is afflict- that a rooftop festival would honour the city’s six ‘top’ locaed by polio and even more tions with a fun, relaxed procrippling insecurities. When the electricity goes out, Laura’s gramme of barbecues, hottubs suitor Jim knocks over the uni- and saunas, beautiful greencorn from her glass menagerie houses and musical or theatrical before admitting that he is al- performances – all with fabulous views from the ultimate ready engaged, triggering a floors of Zoku, Nest, Benno, the dramatic family feud. In Volkshotel’s bathhouse, the Dutch, with English surtitles. Film Academy and the Theatre 15 AND 22 SEPTEMBER School. Don’t forget your binocStadsschouwburg, ulars (or bathing suit…) Leidseplein 26 9 SEPTEMBER www.stadsschouwburgamsterVarious locations dam.nl www.roafamsterdam.nl

THE GLASS MENAGERIE

YANN TIERSEN

French musical-instrument wunderkind Yann Tiersen will grace Carré’s stage for a onenight-only piano concert on 15 October. Since 1995, Tiersen has garnered a huge fanbase thanks to his melancholy-yet-joyful melodies and, his most famous compositions, the soundtracks to the films Amélie and Goodbye, Lenin! His most recent album ∞ (Infinity), from 2014, marries his classical background with rock and electronic/ambient sounds, a quirky combination that still doesn’t betray his highly recognisable, lovely style. 15 OCTOBER Theatre Carré www.carre.nl

ADE: MINIMAL WAVE

An ADE favourite of 2016 is a joint venture between local clubbing organisation Banlieue and the legendary East London Bloc, known for their parties in the Autumn Street Studios warehouse. Londoner Steven Julien (aka Funkineven’)s future funk-heavy debut album Fallen has already been dubbed one of the best albums of the year by Fact Magazine. He is joined by New Jersey’s Joey Anderson, whose specialty is spaced-out, Detroit-informed house music. Battling for the headline posi-

YUNA

This magical singer-songwriter from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia has grown from a young self-producing artist with a boatload of talent to the well-deserved status of rising international star, compared to the likes of Adele and Norah Jones. She delivers catchy and soulful fare in the form of acoustic folk, pop and R&B with inspiring lyrics widely acclaimed as ‘out of this world’. After her initial April date was cancelled, this is your chance to see her live at Paradiso’s northern digs. 19 SEPTEMBER Paradiso Noord (Tolhuistuin), IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl

FRACTUS V

One of the most celebrated figures in contemporary dance, Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui performs in his new creation, inspired by Noam Chomsky, about the fractures necessary for creative growth. It brings together a rich palette of dance styles, as Cherkaoui is joined by circus-trained Dimitri Jourde, Lindy Hop dancer Johnny Lloyd, flamenco dancer Thomé Duten and breakdancer Patrick Williams Seebacher/ Twoface. 13-14 SEPTEMBER Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl

ADE, THE ULTIMATE GLOBAL DANCE EVENT ‘ADE seems to be getting bigger and better. At ADE I meet pretty much everyone I work with throughout the year. I’m so proud of what it’s become and feel like the luckiest guy to have it all take place in my “backyard“,’ says veteran Dutch DJ Joris Voorn, who’s bringing his own flavour of Detroit techno to ADE during the fivenight Awakenings extravaganza at the Gashouder in Westerpark. Back in 1996, when ADE’s first edition took place, it was just ‘a marketplace for publishers and labels to license music’, as Richard Zijlma, the festival’s General Manager for the past 17 years, puts it. ‘We added performing artists to the programme so that event organisers, promoters and agents would also visit ADE,’ he explains. Now ADE is the world’s leading EDM event, where the biggest deals in the industry are closed. More layers followed, including ADE Next, which introduces the next generation of DJs; ADE University, which targets young professionals eyeing a career in the industry; and ADE Playground, the festival’s daytime dance-related lifestyle agenda, complete with film screenings, music hardware presentations, art performances, exclusive fashion offers and talk shows. ‘ADE Playground enriched the festival enormously: it turned nightlife into culture. Institutions

such as museums suddenly realised they could also be a part of ADE, while brands saw the chance to connect with visitors,’ Zijlma proudly adds. With Dutch communications giant KPN as the main partner for its 2016 edition, ADE is close to finalising a line-up of nearly 2,000 artists, who will hit decks during more than 450 events at approximately 115 venues. ‘I see ADE as an open-source platform: anyone with a good idea is welcome,’ Zijlma explains. ‘That’s the reason why it can grow every year, and with that comes great responsibility.’ And Ziljma’s team is not taking this responsibility lightly. After introducing ADE Beats – focused on hiphop and bass – in 2015, this year the organisation added two new streams: SLEEP/OVER and LIVE. The former brings an outdoor festival and camping atmosphere to the industrial backdrop of the NDSM shipyard, while the latter gives the rising stars of live electronica a showcasing platform in the city’s finest live music temples. ‘ADE is inextricably linked to Amsterdam and its evolution. The city benefits from vibrant nightlife and a thriving creative industry. And I feel there are many opportunities out there to further integrate ADE into the fabric of the creative industry and, by extension, Amsterdam,’ Zijlma concludes. With entrepreneurial visionaries such as himself and Groet, the city’s creative future seems to be in more than capable hands.

‘Music may be in the mutual DNA of A’DAM’s occupants, but everyone’s welcome to the tower,’ he adds. And judging by the 60,000 visitors that already ventured to the tower’s rooftop observation deck in its inaugural two months, things are looking good. More visitors are expected with Shelter opening just in time for ADE's influx of industry figureheads and electronic music aficionados.

DE SCHOOL De School’s owners also happen to be the creators of the memorable Club 11 and Trouw. After Club 11 ran for four years in a disused post office, demolished in 2008, Trouw rose from its ashes in 2009, occupying the eponymous newspaper’s former printing press. In 2015, Trouw had to give up its space, but in early 2016 it was reincarnated as De School, a venue located in a former technical school. De School has a 24hour license and includes a club with a capacity of 700 guests, a restaurant and café, an exhibition space and a garden open to the public. During the summer, the club’s acts were announced the same day they performed, so do your homework and read the house rules before you head down. www.deschoolamsterdam.nl

'AMSTERDAM’S APPEAL DOESN’T COME FROM ONE PARTICULAR CLUB, BUT THE DIVERSITY OF ITS NIGHTLIFE'

sep & oct 2016

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC

'NOORD IS THE HIDDEN HEART OF AMSTERDAM' Singer-songwriter Christopher Davies has found a home for his bohemian soul.

34 40 42 44 47 49

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: NOORD EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS COLUMN WHAT’S IN STORE

THROUGH THE (AMSTERDAM) GRAPE VINE Tucked between one of the city’s premiere golf courses and a winding bit of the Amstel river just south of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel is one of the Netherlands’ five best wineries – and one of Amsterdam’s best-kept secrets: De Amsteltuin. Rather than let the Germans have all the fun, the Dutch have been experimenting with wine spawned from the Nederlandse bodem for years – here since 2006. The (mostly) white and (some) red grapes used are crossings that often almost sound like grapes you know: Johanniter, Solaris, Cabernet Cortis, Pinotin. The medal-winning star, though, comes from the rich white grape known as Souvignier gris. On16 September there will be a ‘Mediterranean evening’ (part of the Vineyard Dinners series), where you can enjoy a tour and a five-course meal with your wine for 85. 24 and 25 September are ‘Open Days’, where tours and tastings meet a little market-stall shopping. www.amsteltuin.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

NOORD

ELISA ACHTERBERG, 31 works with circular economies

‘I’ve lived here two years and I love it. I take the boat and leave the busy city behind to find this little village where I know all my neighbours but where there’s still a lot going on – artists, restaurants, cafés.’

neighbourhood watch

A short ferry ride away from the busy centre, the thriving North has its own personality: fun, rebellious and bohemian. See you on the other side. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

The other side

f, like yours truly, you exited Central Station on the wrong side of the tracks on your first visit, you found yourself facing the vast expanse of the IJ River, with its flurries of sail- and tugboats, cruise ships and ferries; and probably, before heading back towards the city centre, you wondered what lay on the other side. What is this strange white building in the shape of a futuristic frog? Why is the horizon filled with construction cranes? And what about this imposing tower that looks like a spaceship launchpad? That, my navigationally impaired friends, is Noord: the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, where refurbished warehouses, village-like suburbia and giant swaths of nature cohabitate peacefully. But don’t let the tranquility fool you: Noord is one of the fastest growing neighbourhoods of Amsterdam, thriving on its newfound popularity and unexplored real estate. Originally, before 1795, there wasn’t much to be found there but the gallows where prisoners were executed – somewhat mercifully hung while admiring the view across the IJ. But this location,

right on the other side of Amsterdam’s original harbour, became strategic during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, and during the 18th and 19th centuries Noord quickly became a substantial industrial district where ships were built and loaded in huge warehouses along the shore. As time went by, the area flourished as more shipbuilders and heavy industries settled there, such as petrochemical giants Shell and Ketjen, energy supplier Draka, motor constructor Kromhout and even Fokker, whose aircraft factory was the target of a World War II bombing in 1943, which killed or injured more than 300 people. TOWN & COUNTRY Out of necessity, housing – which didn’t have to respect Amsterdam building codes and often went over the four-story limit – was erected for these industry workers, which slowly transformed Noord into a semi-residential area. In parallel, as much of the inland district is still rural, the area known as ‘Noord’ expanded into a beautiful region along the Zuiderzee (Southern Sea) called Waterland, where polders, water, pastures and cows still reign.

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Vast sites were reconditioned to serve new purposes as cultural, creative and hospitality hubs Small villages started to appear, such as Nieuwendam and Schellingwoude. Peacefully hidden just a couple of blocks behind the shore-side warehouses, many neighbourhoods of Noord today sport quaint little brick houses and lovely gardens, whose spirit and architecture are reminiscent of small English hamlets. Several city parks, such as Noorderpark (which throws its festival on 4 September) and Vliegenbos, pepper the area, vast sprawls of nature in the middle of an expanding district that’s seemingly always in construction – as it’s become highly coveted town-and-country real estate – but also makes for nice afternoon strolls away from the bustle of the more popular areas.

EYE FILM MUSEUM This eye-catching feat of origami architecture has, in four short years, already become an Amsterdam icon. Central to the design is the 700m2 terraced bar-restaurant with its wrap-around waterside terrace, but EYE’s most interesting personality trait, in addition to its four film theatres, quirky gift shop and exhibition space, is definitely the energy it deploys in organising a plethora of events relating to the Seventh Art. Over the next couple of months, analogue film will be at the forefront with the ‘Celluloid’ exhibition, ‘Cello and Film’ will accompany the cello biennale at the Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ and the Klik Festival will bring the best of international animation to the city. IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl

BASTION OF CULTURE And how popular this area has become! In the past thirty years, as shipbuilders disappeared and other industries relocated, these vast sites were reconditioned to serve new purposes as cultural, creative and hospitality hubs. Warehouses became restaurants, such as Stork or Hotel de Goudfazant. Or exhibition centres, or artist studios, or all of these at once (an Amsterdam specialty), such as Café de Ceuvel, located on a former shipyard. Of all of these newly minted, culturally explosive areas, the most impressive is the IJplein, right across the river from Central Station in Overhoeks, where the new EYE Film Museum sits in state. As much a sculpture as a building, the visually stunning construction was designed by Delugan Meissl Architects and inaugurated in 2012. Next door, where the Shell company’s cafeteria used to stand, Tolhuistuin has fast become the area’s hotspot, with a vibrant cultural

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A’DAM TOWER The A’DAM Tower opened this past May after extensive renovations. The former Shell building is now the King of the Noord: its 360-degree Lookout observation deck has an unparalleled view over all of Amsterdam; panorama restaurant MA’DAM on the top floor becomes a sky bar at night; revolving restaurant Moon also throws music shindigs; and if you want to stay for the night, there’s urban boutique hotel Sir Adam.

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Overhoeksplein 1 www.adamtoren.nl

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TOLHUISTUIN

FASHION AND TEA

Shell’s worker canteen is now a thriving cultural centre with a gallery, concert hall and dance studios (music is courtesy of pop temple Paradiso). Its café-restaurant THT, with its delicious yet affordable menu and its sprawling terrace, is wildly popular, and its beautiful garden is a green haven to stroll or sit in. They even offer tours of the gallows where prisoners were hanged in the 17th century.

You’ve walked for miles around the neighbourhood, and all you want is a homemade sandwich and a fresh smoothie? Look no further than Fashion and Tea, a quaint little shop where a quiet flower garden awaits with wooden picnic tables. The owner has also carefully selected a collection of fashion items from jewellery to pastel-coloured clothing as warm and soft as her welcome.

IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl

Van de Pekstraat 40 www.fashionandtea.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

neighbourhood watch

PEK & KLEREN A little warehouse of fashion wonders, Pek & Kleren is the new kid on the emerging Van de Pekstraat block.This harmoniously, enticingly designed shop is a treasure trove of trendy, unique fashions that aren’t limited to clothing but also include accessories, home décor and even plants. With such a selection of original brands from Pig & Them (men) and Marie-Sixtine (women) to Urban Nature Culture potteries, this is a one-stop chic shop. Van de Pekstraat 56 www.pek-en-kleren.nl

SMAAQT This innocuous new hotspot has promptly stolen the throne for best BBQ ribs in the city – and by far. Its cosy interior, decorated with gorgeous warm woods, bricks and leathers, makes you want to plop down and devour as many racks as your appetite will permit (or more). Their backyard has a terrace to enjoy a juicy pulled-pork sandwich on non-rainy afternoons, while their chef smokes the ribs on the old-time barbecue. Van de Pekstraat 79 www.smaaqt.nl

HOTEL DE GOUDFAZANT Hotel de Goudfazant – which isn’t a hotel at all, but a vast warehouse-turned-restaurant named after a 1960s song – is tucked away in the former Stork industrial complex. It has retained its industrial feel and makes a great, trendy hangout with a reputation for good, honest French-inspired food. Enjoy the perfect poussin (whole rotisserie-roasted baby chicken served with rhubarb-apple compote, Roseval potatoes and green beans) and a Medled menu with classics such as steak tartare, risotto nero and molten chocolate cake. Its hardto-find status seems to add to the hip eatery’s allure, making it feel like a hidden gem. Just be sure to take a map with you... Aambeeldstraat 10H www.hoteldegoudfazant.nl

This wild-child, urban-hippie riverside hangout located in a former shipyard has earned its immense popularity by simply doing things the way we want them: fun, relaxed and plentiful. It feels like a free-for-all, but that’s what makes it so appealing, from the green, sustainable kitchen that delivers delicious, fresh and affordable fare to their extensive programme of entertainment, from the food trucks they host when their kitchen is closed to their cultural agenda that includes concerts, pop-up shops, film screenings and parties. You’ll never want to leave. Korte Papaverweg 4 www.cafedeceuvel.nl

CAFÉ DE CEUVEL

AMANO KONING SEQKON, 22 works in retail and as a model

‘It’s such a nice place, so quiet – even though they’re building new houses and apartments every day!’

CHRISTOPHER DAVIES, 73

programme and a café-restaurant with an epic terrace and a gorgeous garden that only add to its wild appeal. Last but not least, the 22-storey A’DAM Toren has just reopened this summer, with, in addition to music-industry office and studio spaces, an exciting collection of clubs and restaurants, including a revolving restaurant plus a boutique 110room hotel. The lovechild of Sander Groet, Duncan Stutterheim and Hans Brouwer, a well-known trio in Amsterdam’s dance scene, the revitalised building promises to be anything but boring, starting with its giant swing hanging from the almost-top-floor 360-degree observation deck (we dare you). Nowhere else in Amsterdam can you find such a wide variety of architecture, from quaint and classic to ultra-modern with detours to gritty industrial. Or

meet so many different kinds of people, as born-and-bred working-class Northerners (famously loyal to their ‘homeland’) now count young artists, baristas and entrepreneurs as their new neighbours, as well as immigrant families who settle in the modern housing that sprouts every day at lightning speed. But especially, nowhere else can you enjoy such a range of activities, as all it takes is a (free and quick) ride on the ferry to spend the day biking around meadows and polders, strolling through traditional fishing villages, getting lost in corn mazes, enjoying a hot cup of coffee while ship-spotting on the banks of the IJ, catching an old flick, admiring a modern art exhibition, savouring mounds of fresh seafood and finally dancing the night away. Why even cross the river back, in the end?

singer and writer

‘Noord is the hidden heart of Amsterdam. It's the perfect place for a bohemian soul like me.’

24 H NOORD

29 OCTOBER

24H Amsterdam lets you experience the city in new ways when, for a blistering 24-hour period, one neighbourhood’s shops, clubs and cultural institutions throw open their doors for some special surprises. The Noord edition on 29 October offers a programme chock-full of activities such as an oyster tasting at Stork, special events at the Noorderpark swimming pool, a beermeets-jazz concert in the Vliegenbos and tucking the ferries to bed before heading home. 24 September Various locations www.iamsterdam.com

STORK With a stunning, south-facing terrace jutting out over the water, this former ship-engine factory is now one of Amsterdam’s best seafood restaurants. The ultimate spot to lazily admire the cruise ships and tugboats navigating the IJ River on a sunny day, its mammoth 1,100 m2 interior also manages the feat of feeling cosy and intimate, thanks to an inviting marine-themed décor. The menu is a real star, always fresh and bountiful – especially the seafood platter sporting North Sea crab, snow crab, mussels, clams, smoked salmon and mackerel rillettes. Gedempt Hamerkanaal 96 www.restaurantstork.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers

text Karin Engelbrecht

Kattenburgerstraat 7, Building 24 www.scheepskameel.nl

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Naval references abound at this recently opened former shipyard on the Marineterrein. Run by the people behind renowned Rijsel Rotisserie and the former chef of foodie favourite Marius, expect the same excellent yet informal service, but olive oil, raw preparations and plenty of veg instead of butter-based French-Flemish fare. Considering the setting, the menu is suitably international and – like the white-on-white dining room with its open kitchen – light and frill-free. First, it's anchors away with a carafe of cold water and crusty bread, served with country-style charcuterie and pickled vegetables. Leek with velvety coldsmoked herring and horseradish sauce (€8) is a full-on flavour fest. Rosy slivers of tender lamb are simply served with seasonal vegetables (€16.50), and kartoffelkuche (a savoury potato cake) with onion compote is topped with a yolk-porny slow-cooked egg (€8). While we missed the bold savour and crackling crunch, pairing our pork belly (€15,50) with silky octopus, lemon beans and tarragon worked wonderfully well. The all-German wine list is an opportunity to explore beyond Spatbürgunders and Rieslings. Finishing with a terrifically tangy lemon tart (€5.50) we are unsurprised that it’s chock-a-block around the clock here.

SCHEEPSKAMEEL

NEW

eating out

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41 trendy G’S BRUNCH BOAT Can’t quite decide between a canal boat tour and a leisurely brunch? Here’s your chance to combine them. Enjoy G’s classics while cruising the canals: including the highly recommended oyster-topped Bloody Mary with a ‘bagel BLT’, banana-bacon waffles with cinnamon and maple syrup or a ‘healthy benedict’ – cottage cheese, avocado, spinach, poached eggs and a hint of Hollandaise sauce on spelt toast. Keizersgracht 198 www.reallyniceplace.com

critic’s choice VERGULDEN EENHOORN

his unexpectedly rustic refuge near the busy Wibautstraat is ideal for cosy candlelit dinners, or chewing the cud on rainy autumn afternoons on leather couches by a copper fireplace. A leafy terrace with rough-hewn wooden tables and bench seating – perfect for urban picnics or beer and bitterballen-fuelled get-togethers – wraps around the monumental farmstead, originally constructed in 1702. Where dairy cows once sheltered, there’s a handsomely renovated restaurant with locavore leanings. A recent meal included scallops with cockles, katenspek (a local bacon variety), yellow carrot puree and herb salad (€9.50) and slow-cooked lamb shanks with couscous, tangled spinach and tzatziki (€18.50).

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Ringdijk 58 www.verguldeneenhoorn.nl

classic THE GRAND AFTERNOON TEA

quick & simple LA LOTTA PIZZABAR La Lotta’s stand-out crisp-chewy pizza crust is made with whole-grain flour and a ‘decades-old mother starter’ combining the ‘best of the Neapolitan and Romanesque styles’ (from 9). This artisan approach has won the pizza bar a slew of awards, including ‘best pizza in the Netherlands 2016’ at the largest Dutch hospitality trade fair. Weesperzijde 42A www.lalottapizzabar.nl

The Grand hotel is home to one of Amsterdam’s most classic afternoon teas, which can be enjoyed in a serene courtyard garden – weather permitting. Delicacies such as crostini with smoked eel and basil cream, poached egg with caviar and crème fraîche and scones with jam, lemon curd and Devonshire clotted cream are served on elegant etagères with a selection of Newby teas. We particularly enjoyed the French pastry plate with Opéra cake, strawberry-rhubarb crumble and la religieuse – choux pastry berry bombs – a subtle nod perhaps to the building’s beginnings as a 15th-century convent. Oudezijdsvoorburgwal 197 www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste text Karin Engelbrecht

beer festivals

hot dogs

hotel cocktail bars

BIER WEST

BULLS & DOGS

VAULT BAR

This year’s edition of the Bier West craft beer festival in Rembrandtpark includes a ‘festival edition’, for over18s with DJs, dancing and beer games (on 24 September), and an all-ages ‘family edition’, a more relaxed experience with kids’ entertainment and a Sunday roast (25 September). The line-up includes Amsterdam Brewboys, Brewdog, Jopen, Troost and Bruut.

While the pretzel bun-based hot dogs at this little slice of hipster heaven divide opinion between purists and fans, do try the ‘Smokey Pepper Dog’ with merguez sausage (€5.50) and hand-cut sweet potato fries (€3.75). The chocolate ‘freakshake’ (€6), a milkshake with Oreo cookies, Nutella, chocolate buttons and a cigarette wafer roll, is universally adored.

For some of the city’s most creatively presented cocktails, descend to the basement of the Waldorf Astoria hotel where, in a former bank vault, Wilson Pires (Portugal’s 2014 Barman of the Year) presents his 10 signature cocktails (all €17) on bank notes tucked into leather wallets, along with lock boxes of bar bites from Librije’s Zusje.

www.bierfestival.amsterdam

THE AMSTERDAM BEERFAIR The city’s former naval grounds host an international line-up of craft breweries from 16 to 18 September, including White Pony Microbrewery (Italy), Lagunitas Brewing Company (USA), Brasserie La Débauche (France) and Lervig Aktiebryggeri (Norway), while Homeland Brewery and Brouwerij ’t IJ bat for the home team. Marineterrein (Kattenburgerstraat 5) www.tabfestival.wordpress.com

PINT BOKBIERFESTIVAL Over the last century, Dutch brewers have embraced bokbier, a seasonal beer that traces its origins back to Bavaria. Taste over 100 local varieties on tap at the 39th edition of the Netherlands’ largest beer festival from 28 to 30 October. Beurs van Berlage (Damrak 243) www.pint.nl/festivals/bokbierfestival/

Van Woustraat 58. Other location: Food Hallen (Bellamyplein 53). www.bullsanddogs.com

HEMA Beloved by Dutch builders and bankers alike, HEMA’s €2 take on the fast-food favourite is echt Hollands and deeply down to earth. In a typical display of polder practicality, the white bread rolls come with a tubular tunnel down the centre for the warm sausage and HEMA’s scrumptious ‘secret mustard sauce’. Various locations www.hema.nl

Herengracht 542-556 www.waldorfastoria.com/ amsterdam

PULITZER’S BAR The renovations of this classic hotel bar emphasise the elegance of the Golden Age canal house. Choose a canal-view table, an armchair by the fireplace or perch at the Art Deco-style bar and order Pulitzer’s new-style Old Fashioned with Zuidam 12-year-old Corenwijn, fermented pineapple syrup and Creole bitters (€15). Keizersgracht 234 www.pulitzersbar.nl

THE FAT DOG

THE TAILOR

Ron Blaauw’s snacketeria takes a low-brow break from the chef’s usual highend cooking. We liked the Gangs of New York (€7.50), a frankfurter with just the right burst and bite, served on pooch-printed paper with sauerkraut, smoked onion marmalade, mustard and bacon crisps.

Named after the profession of the hotel’s founder, this stylish bar is the home base of startender Tess Posthumus (Best Female Bartender Worldwide, 2015), whose ‘bespoke cocktails’ include the dramatic ‘Cuban Mist’ with rum, apricot liqueur, tobacco bitters and Serrano ham served in a smoke-filled glass cloche.

Ruysdaelkade 251 www.thefatdog.nl

Dam 9 www.barthetailor.com

on the menu

TEA

Tea-totalism

fter premium coffee, craft beer and designer gin, something’s brewing on Amsterdam’s tea scene. All of this year’s buzzword-teas – blended, cold-brew, detox – can be found at the new ‘experience store’ Café Couture, which offers 68 whole-leaf tea blends and cold-brew organic iced tea in flavours such as ‘I love you berry much’ and ‘Green tea and lemon’ (which boasts ‘three times more antioxidants than ordinary green tea’). Also going the green tea route is Izakaya, with an appetiser of green-tea-smoked lamb skewers, and JuiceBrothers, with its Matcha Moringa Mylk (€6.50 for 420 ml), a breakfast beverage with green tea

and moringa powders, cashew milk and spices. For an evening infusion with more personality than chamomile, try Vault Bar’s potent tea cocktail with white Earl Greyinfused Beefeater 24, rhubarb amaro, LBV port wine and vermouth, served in a long-stemmed porcelain teacup with matching saucer and a biscuit. CAFÉ COUTURE Bilderdijkstraat 215 www.cafecouture.eu JUICEBROTHERS Van Woustraat 151 www.juicebro.com IZAKAYA ASIAN KITCHEN & BAR Albert Cuypstraat 2-6 www.izakaya-amsterdam.com

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card text Elisah Jacobs

DE BIJENKORF

NEW IN TOWN

hose with fantasies of overflowing shopping bags will see their dream come true at De Bijenkorf. The warehousesized luxury department store recently went through a complete makeover, especially the huge beauty and cosmetics department on the ground floor, which is now called Beauty World. The best part?

It’s also a veritable treasure trove of Swiss watches and other luxurious jewellery – and a sinful amount of leather accessories. Take the escalator to the first, second and third floors, where everything has changed as well, and for the better: not only do they carry more designer fashion and footwear brands for men and women, but the interior is lavish, with lots of marble, bronze, bigger

entrances and a huge glass façade on the ground floor. Among the new brands are Chloé, Balenciaga, Tom Ford, Anya Hindmarch, Prada and Dior, as well as new shop-inshops by Céline, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Salvatore Ferragamo. Still breathing, or do you need some smelling salts?

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Dam 1 www.debijenkorf.nl

fragrant OTENTIC A feat for the senses, Otentic is the perfume brand of French perfumer Jean-Denis Saisse, who recently opened a store on one of our beautiful canals. It’s no wonder that Jean-Denis Saisse, who grew up near French perfume town Grasse, made his way into the business. Otentic features eight different styles of perfumes divided into different fragrances, from floral, romantic and sweet to oriental, woody and ocean fresh. You can also choose a perfume from the Pure collection, made of lavender, sandalwood or roses. Less is more at Otentic; all perfumes come in the same bottle design.

tasty

‘T ZONNETJE A hankering for some coffee or tea? Then try ‘t Zonnetje (translated: ‘the little sunshine’), which has been around for quite a few years (or should we say ages). The history of the building dates back to the 17th century, and today it’s the best place to try some old and new coffee and tea flavours. But be aware: choosing your favourite is difficult. Try some Taiwanese green tea or choose a cup of Japanese shadow tea. As a coffee junkie, you can choose from more than eighteen sorts of coffee beans to brew your own hot cup of steaming coffee at home. All beans are freshly ground in front of you – the delicious aroma is a great start to your coffee or tea tasting. The name ‘t Zonnetje is a reference to the 17th-century gold-plated sign outside the store, which was a gift to the former steersman Jan Opmeer. Centuries later it’s still there, winking at us.

Keizersgracht 233 www.otenticperfumes.com

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Haarlemmerdijk 45 www.koffietheeenkruiden.nl

eco-conscious STUDIO JUX This Dutch label started in 2008 as an alternative for fast fashion. Now you can find the studio JUX flagship store in the middle of De Pijp. In there, it’s all about guilt-free goodies for your closet and interior, from their own label to 25 other sustainable brands such as People Tree, Beaumont, Miss Green and Atelier Pierre. Jeans made of recycled yarn, a dress made of vegan silk, equitable chocolate and pillowcases of organic cotton. Studio JUX works with social projects that help Nepalese women and their families. Ceintuurbaan 252 www.studiojux.com

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NOW Available in the I amsterdam Store Amsterdam CS, IJ-zijde

DESIGN AND LIVING #iamsterdamstore

PART III

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

hen thinking of city birds, it’s usually the lowly pigeon that comes to mind. Indeed, when we moved across De Pijp earlier this year, I wondered why all our neighbours had spikes on their balcony railings. Then we noticed one of said species roosting beneath a bench on our own balcony. I’ve read the gestation period for a pigeon is about 18 days, but we had to wait a couple months before our guests flew the coop and we were fully able to utilize our BBQ. I actually think the pigeon is underrated (did you know the male and female share nesting duties and live out their days in monogamous bliss?). But Amsterdam’s avian life is so much more. I barely have to leave my house to see them: a grey heron had found a gap in the spikes on our neighbor’s balcony when I opened my curtains one early evening. He probably flew in from the nearby Albert Cuyp market, where sightings of the species picking through fish or enjoying the view atop a lamppost are almost a daily closing-time occurrence. I hear the herons also hang out in the Oosterpark. Then there are the parakeets, some 3,700 of the rose-ringed variety that are said to have descended from released pets and have been living in the city since the 1980s. Usually visible

throughout the Vondelpark, I’ve also spotted them in my old De Pijp backyard. And although I’m unclear why De Pijp seems to be avian central, one of the most amazing sights is the starlings. We’re not talking one, but thousands. In early evenings throughout the year they take to the skies above De Pijp and, after circling the neighborhood in a well-choreographed swarm, roost by the thousands in certain trees usually found in Sarphatipark, the Oosterpark or even my old courtyard (until a neighbour, understandably, cut down the ivy that seemed to draw them to the tree). Although their droppings are a nuisance and their song – when in the tens of thousands – sounds like something out of a Hitchcock movie, these murmurations make it worth keeping your eyes peeled to the sky as the sun starts to go down. But I’m just a happy casual observer. For those who want more expert avian advice, why not take a professional birding tour? FlevoBirdwatching (www.birdsnetherlands.nl) offers scheduled or customised tours in and around the city, while Birding Holland (www.birdingholland.com) goes so far as to provide a Schiphol airport layover tour – perfect for those on the fly.

www.gassan.com

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home

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text Elisah Jacobs

CUKI CuKi (‘culinair’ and ‘kitchen’) assembles all of our favourite things: cooking and eating, travelling and beautiful objects. CuKi is the place to find items to perfectly style your dinner party at home. You’ll find bowls from Mexico, bamboo placemats, chopsticks, cookbooks and Scandinavian tableware – plus jewellery to gift to the hostess! The collection changes regularly and CuKi also rents out the place for workshops, lectures and kids' parties.

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De Clerqstraat 48 www.cuki-amsterdam.com

SUIT

OLD WEST Just around the corner from Wijst West is Old West, a shop established by friends Sofie and Floortje. They came up with the idea of opening a store where parents can buy second-hand clothing for their kids. Not all sorts of brands, mind you: only high-end brands such as Imps & Elfs, Claesens, Oilily, Vingino, Gaastra and Noppies, mostly only worn a few weeks or months (because tiny demons grow up so fast), from size 40 to 122. Also for sale are books, toys, baby items and unique treasures from France.

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In addition to its own Danish label, Suit sells sunglasses by Monokel, aftershave from Eight & Bob, clothing by Stieglitx, jewellery from Overload Jewelry, festive illustrations by Hotel Magique, shoes from Bass & Co and Timex watches. Hang around in the store after your shopping session, as co-owner Burney loves to brew a fresh cup of coffee just for you. Our advice: drink it on the white bench in front of the store.

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Raadhuisstraat 41 www.suitamsterdam.com

ADIDAS ORIGINALS For years, the Adidas Originals store graced the Leidsestraat, but recently the shop got a makeover. Still in the same building, but with a new interior: more spacious, cleaner and airier. Adidas Originals started in 1972 as part of Adidas, and in the brand-new, redesigned shop, you can find all of Adidas Originals' classics, such as the Superstar and Stan Smith, but also new designs, such as NMD and Tubular, and more sports-inspired fashion. Leidsestraat 9 www.adidas.nl

De Clercqstraat 63 www.oldwestamsterdam.nl

MOOI ANDERS BLOEMEN Choose your favourite flowers and plants for the home or as a gift. In the stunning interior, owner Dennis loves to tell you more about all the different kinds of flowers and plants in his shop. Nice fact: you can shop with a good conscience, as almost all flowers are fair-trade and they only use recycled materials. You can even indulge in a flower subscription or sign up for a flower-arrangement workshop on 2 September. Bilderdijkstraat 196 h www.mooianders.info

SUITSUPPLY Suitsupply is the store in town where you can find affordable suits for work, weddings and other festive occasions. But now the shop also sports a coffee bar, catered by Coffee Concepts (PR agency, coffee bar and sandwich service in one). Ideal after your shopping spree, or for the ladies whose eyes glaze over while their partners try everything on. Willemsparkweg 37-41 eu.suitsupply.com

WIJS WEST

GASSAN

Wijs West is a coffee bar, lunchroom, store, hairdresser and workshop space in one. There’s plenty of these popping up all over Amsterdam, but this one’s a bit different: it’s for kids! Hop in as a parent to drink some coffee and explore the racks of kids' fashion, little presents and other items for children’s rooms while your little one(s) enjoy(s) the playground. Oh, and this summer, Wijs West serves frozen popsicles from IJsmanschap. Yum!

Gassan Dam Square is located in the heart of Amsterdam and, being the largest jewellery store in Holland, sells an elaborate selection of loose polished diamonds, exclusive jewelry and watches of 65 different brands such as Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Chopard, Breguet, Audemars Piguet and many others. A highly trained staff provides customers with personal, expert advice to ensure that you can make the perfect choice.

Bilderdijkstraat 62 wijswest.nl

Rokin 1-5 www.gassan.com

Enjoy a unique shopping experience with more than 100 stores, cafÃ©s and restaurants. Relax and take the daily Shopping Shuttle that departs every day at 10.00 in front of the Park Plaza Victoria Amsterdam. We are happy to welcome you.

250 FASHION BRANDS | 30-70% SAVINGS | OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK DENHAM, FOSSIL, GANT, GUESS, LACOSTE, NIKE, OILILY, REPLAY, SCOTCH & SODA, SUITSUPPLY, SUPERTRASH, VAN BOMMEL, VILLEROY & BOCH AND MANY MORE

BATAVIASTAD.COM

PART IV

THE

sep & oct 2016

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

THIN SKIN The San Francisco Gate calls the new eerie and poetic choreography by Marco Goeckes ‘incendiary’ – with its feverish, pulsating movements and dancer Medhi Walerksi’s ghostly dreamscapes, the new performance hosted by the always innovative Nederlands Dans Theater is a powerful homage to punk-rock icon Patti Smith, whose music is used as the soundtrack to the haunting dance. Her voice and breathless lyrics form a perfect marriage with Goecke’s frenetic language of movement, which the Guardian says puzzles the mind as much as it ravishes the eye.

10-12 OCTOBER Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam www.ndt.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS AMSTERDAM IN-WATER BOAT SHOW This off-shoot of the Amsterdam Boat Show returns for its third edition at the NDSM Wharf, MUSEUM MARKET allowing seafaring folks and This design market on Amwater-sports fans to get up close sterdam’s Museumplein offers and personal with sailing ships, fashion, accessories, textiles, boats and lots of other nautical homewares, jewellery, stationary paraphernalia. There’s plenty of and much more, all by local action on and around the water, designers. When you're done plus lectures, presentations and shopping, grab some food and workshops for and by boating enjoy some live music. enthusiasts. 18 Sep-23 Oct, Museumplein, 30 Aug-4 Sep, NDSM Wharf, www.museummarket.nl www.hiswatewater.nl

Choice festivals

FESTIVALS EVENTS

NEIGHBOURFOOD MARKET DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL Follow your nose and discover The Dutch Theatre Festival some of the tastiest food and is a celebration of Dutch and delicious drinks in Amsterdam, Flemish theatre, presenting a UNSEEN PHOTO FESTIVAL with the NeighbourFood Market selection of last season’s best stopping off at the Westergas- productions. There are a number Unseen Photo Festival has grown into a 10-day celebration fabriek on every third Sunday of of performances with English of photography in Amsterdam. The core of the the month. surtitles or that are otherwise programme takes place around the Spaarndammerbuurt 18 Sep-16 Oct, Westergasfabriek, suitable for non-Dutch speakers. neighbourhoud. Some of the highlights already announced www.neighbourfood.nl 1-11 Sep, various locations, include an exhibition curated by Anton Corbijn, a www.tf.nl/en/ VONDELPARK OPEN AIR presentation in an outdoor swimming pool and a collection THEATRE AMSTERDAM FRINGE of contemporary Japanese photography. The festival also FESTIVAL Steeped in musical and forges a base at Museum Het Schip, exploring a theme of theatrical history, every sumThe festival for young, fresh ’n’ craftsmanship. mer weekend, Amsterdam’s new theatre takes over Amster16-25 Sep, various locations, www.unseenamsterdam.com famous Vondelpark presents a dam’s stages, clubs, streets and programme packed with dance, living rooms once again with cabaret, jazz, children's theatre, more than 80 performances, stand-up comedy and all genres many of which are suitable for of music. non-Dutch speakers. Staging until Sun 11 Sep, Vondelpark a huge array of productions by Open Air Theatre, cutting-edge home-grown and www.openluchttheater.nl international producers and artists, the eccentricity that is LIVE AT AMSTERDAMSE BOS the Fringe comes alive in bizarre, As well as its sport and recrebrooding and brilliant producation facilities, the dazzling nations including live art, theatre, ture of the Amsterdamse Bos is musical theatre, comedy and home to a picturesque open-air dance. theatre that opens for the sum1-11 Sep, various locations, mer season. Besides theatrical www.amsterdamfringefestiPINT BOKBIERFESTIVAL AMSTERDAM HERITAGE performances in Dutch, look out val.nl for diverse singer-songwriter DAYS The largest of its kind in the VALTIFEST and pop acts, such as Frank Netherlands, this beer festival The Amsterdam Heritage Turner and Kovacs. The wild child of Amsterdam's descends on the city centre Days explore and celebrate until 12 Sep, Amsterdamse summer festival programme every year for three full days the city’s rich history by castBostheater, returns with a heavyweight of beery delight. With over 50 ing open the doors of imporwww.liveatamsterdamsebos.nl line-up of DJs playing a range types of glorious 'bok' beer on tant buildings, monuments of electronic music as eclectic ON THE ROOF as the dress code. The festival tap, it's a haven for connoisand private homes, all free Summertime isn't just about changes its dress code theme seurs and enthusiasts alike. of charge. The year's theme water-side terraces in Amsterevery year, and this time around Be sure to look beyond the is ‘100 years of the Amsterdam, but also roof terraces. it’s ‘Valtifest on Fire’, so dig deep bigger brands and discover a damse School’. Check out the That's the precise specialty of into your imagination before you host of independent brewers evening cultural programme the On the Roof festival series in burn up the dance floor. from the Netherlands and be- and family-friendly events or Amsterdam-Noord, showcasing 3 Sep, NDSM Wharf, yond. In many ways it's back chat with the volunteers and a wealth of jazz and world music www.valtifest.nl acts atop a riverside business to the basics: you get a glass experts who breathe life into PACHA FESTIVAL unit. The final session of the seaupon entry and this is yours for the monuments. son includes a performance by The renowned club brand is the entire visit. 10 & 11 Sep, various locaRenske Taminiau. back to wrap-up the festival 28-30 Oct, Beurs van Berlage, tions, www.iamsterdam.com/ 2 Sep, Op Zeezand, season with the latest edition of www.pint.nl heritagedays www.on-the-roof.com their spectacular dance music event. Expect festive, beat-heavy (Sloterplas) fun at its central island location. Dutch soil. The daytime conferadvert ence programme is intended for 3 Sep, Arenapark, MAGNEET FESTIVAL music professionals, but the gigs www.pachafestival.com are very much intended for the The ultimate expedition into creNOORDERPARKFESTIVAL public, including sets from NO ative collaboration, the Magneet Blues, Nils Fischer, Minyeshu, Festival encourages visitors to Amsterdam-Noord comes into its own, uniting a host of cultural the Carel Kraayenhof Ensemble get involved by submitting their and many more. own ideas and, naturally, even institutions from the neighbour7 Sep, Bimhuis/8 Sep, participating in the event itself. hood for a free, fun-filled day. Tolhuistuin, Join with an open mind and The programme is a blend of www.dutchdeltasounds.nl discover a huge range of music, old-fashioned funfair, street-thetheatre, experimental architecatre event and a music festival. ture, art and activities. 4 Sep, Noorderpark (and other WEST BEACH FILM FESTIVAL Make the most of the summer 9-11 Sep, Oostpunt, locations in Noord), evenings with a series of top www.magneetfestival.nl www.amsterdam.nl/noorderfilms screened in the open air. parkfestival UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE Bring a blanket, grab a drink WEEKEND DUTCH DELTA SOUNDS and settle in for your choice of film, whether it be a silEach year, the nine Dutch This festival showcases a contemporary blend of adventurous ver-screen classic or a blockbust- UNESCO World Heritage Sites, ing new release. which include Amsterdam’s music from all corners of the 8-18 Sep, Noordzijde 41 Canal Ring, literally and metworld that have taken root on

aphorically open their doors to take part in a special family-friendly programme. Look out for enlightening walking, cycling and boat tours in Amsterdam and the surrounding region. 10 11 Sep, Amsterdam City Archives (info point), www.werelderfgoed.nl INTERNATIONAL SPORTS FILM FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Showcasing the best in sports films, look out for movies from around the world, including brand new fiction, documentaries and sports classics. Its base in Amsterdam is the Ketelhuis cinema in Westerpark, so you can always jog laps around the pond between screenings. 15-18 Sep, Ketelhuis, www.isffa.nl KLASSIEK OP HET AMSTELVELD This free outdoor festival presents a whole day of classical music for the entire family. Upand-coming classical talents and established ensembles, choirs and orchestras will perform as the Amstelveld square turns into one big stage. The 2016 programme is hosted by Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra contrabassist Dominic Seldis and features an impressive collection of talented soloists, as well as an open stage and several stalls. 17-18 Sep, Amstelveld, www.klassiekophetamstelveld.nl MEZRAB STORYTELLING SCHOOL FESTIVAL Lose yourself in the magic of aural storytelling at Mezrab. This new festival pulls together an amazing array of storytellers from all over Europe, so is naturally a friendly environment for non-Dutch speakers. 22-25 Sep, Mezrab, www.mezrab.nl AMSTERDAM DRAWING The event welcomes around 50 galleries from home and abroad, who present drawings in a pavilion built especially for the occasion. The fair is intended to appeal to both weathered collectors and first-time art buyers, as works on paper are often less expensive than sculptures, photographs or paintings on canvas. 22-25 Sep, NDSM Wharf, www.amsterdamdrawing.nl UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR Showcasing fresh international photography, the Unseen Photo Fair focuses primarily on new and undiscovered photography talent and unseen work by established photographers. This naturally means there are innumerable opportunities to purchase work by the artists, but the festival, located in the Spaarndammer neighbourhood, is about more than just browsing (and buying) art. The core programme of the fair includes displays by 54 galleries, an informal meeting place called the Unseen Living Room, the Unseen Book Market and much more. 23-25 Sep, Westergasfabriek, www.unseenamsterdam.com

sep & oct 2016

EXHIBITIONS AMBACHT IN BEELD FESTIVAL From textiles and fashion to pottery, and from haute cuisine to instrument making, a dazzling range of crafts is represented here. You can watch, you can learn and, most importantly, you can try it out for yourself. 23-25 Sep, De Hallen, www. ambachtinbeeldfestival.nl 24H ZUID 24H Amsterdam is an opportunity to experience the city in new ways. The 24H Zuid edition presents all that the South district has to offer in one day. Look out for shops, clubs and cultural institutions throwing open their doors for some special programming and surprises. 24 Sep, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com/24h VT WONEN DESIGN BEURS If your pad could do with a style facelift, this annual fair is the ideal place to get up to date on the latest in home interiors, outdoor furnishings, art, concept design and lifestyle trends. Come and be inspired by hundreds of interior design experts, all under one roof. 27 Sep-2 Oct, Amsterdam RAI, www.woonbeurs.nl EXPATICA'S 'I AM NOT A TOURIST' FAIR Whether you’re new to the Netherlands, recently arrived or about to make the big move, this annual fair has everything you could need. The event caters to an ever-growing international and expatriate community. The extensive programme includes workshops, performances and a dedicated kids’ area, while an enormous range of service providers will be on hand for a chat. 2 Oct, Beurs van Berlage, www.expatica.com/iamnotatourist INSPIRATION360 Get first-hand business advice from leaders such as Sir Richard Branson, Al Gore and Bear Grylls at the largest event of its kind in the Netherlands. The three world-renowned guest speakers will share their insights and even answer your questions during interactive Q&A sessions from a rotating stage. 4 Oct, Ziggo Dome, www.inspiration360.nl AFROVIBES FESTIVAL This African cultural festival returns to examine the state of modern, innovative theatre, dance, music and film from Africa. The festival tours the Netherlands each autumn, stopping in Amsterdam for four days. 5-8 Oct, Compagnietheater Bijlmer Parktheater, www.afrovibes.nl READ MY WORLD INTERNATIONAL International literature festival that challenges Dutch and international authors to explore the boundaries between literature and journalism, focusing

on a new region each year. Ukraine and Poland form the core of this edition, with special performances and presentations by authors, bloggers, poets, musicians and other global talents. 6-8 Oct, Tolhuistuin, www.readmyworld.org CAMERA JAPAN The largest multidisciplinary Japanese cultural festival in Benelux. Although primarily a film festival showcasing Japanese cinema, Camera Japan throws in a heady mix of art, music, dance, fashion and food. 14-16 Oct, Kriterion, www.camerajapan.nl DOCKYARD FESTIVAL Another of the major festival events at ADE, Dockyard takes over the industrial terrain of ADE for a night of raw, blazing electronica. The festival's area hosts include Mindshake Records, SCI+TEC, [A:RPIA:R] and more. 22 Oct, NDSM Wharf, www.dockyardfestival.com AMF AMSTERDAM AMF has established itself as one of the biggest dance music events of the year, not only taking place in the city's largest stadium (Amsterdam ArenA) and the city's largest arena (Ziggo Dome) for two nights each, but also the neighbouring Heineken Music Hall for five nights. That means tens of thousands will converge in the southeast of Amsterdam to witness powerful sets by some of the most famous names in EDM and to dance, dance, dance! 19-23 Oct, Amsterdam ArenA/Ziggo Dome/Heineken Music Hall, www.amf-festival.com AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT The definitive gateway to the international electronic music scene and five days of extraordinary parties, ADE is the world's biggest club festival and Europe's leading electronic music conference. The festival never fails to bring in the crowds with world-famous established names on the lineup alongside an enormous list of rising stars spinning tunes from a suitably diverse range of genres. 19-23 Oct, various locations, www.amsterdam -dance-event.nl CELLO BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM The world’s biggest cello festival returns to the city, featuring an impressive line-up of international soloists, ensembles and orchestras performing everything from classical and contemporary music to pop, jazz, world and rock. Outside of the main concerts there are daily sessions plus workshops for students. 20-29 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.cellobiennale.nl

KLIK! AMSTERDAM ANIMATION FESTIVAL One of the city’s most unique film festivals, KLIK! features a massive selection of top-quality animated films that go well beyond Walt's work. Over the years, the festival has gone from strength to strength and it now delights with six days of top-notch animated films, masterclasses, themed programmes, special guests and of course, parties! 25-30 Oct, EYE Filmmuseum, www.klikamsterdam.nl AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Calling all aspiring art collectors! As the name of this event suggests, getting your hands on a piece of art no longer has to break the bank: contemporary art is on sale for between a few hundred and a few thousand euros. With thousands of paintings, original prints, photographs and sculptures on show, first time buyers can have a browse around while seasoned collectors can seek out hot new artists. 27-30 Oct, Kromhouthal, www.affordableartfair.com TRIBAL ART FAIR From ancient tribal masks to artefacts from Oceania and Indonesia, the Tribal Art Fair exhibits the most interesting treasures from 20 renowned art dealers. Come along and see the unique collection, take a guided tour or learn more about the heritage in a lecture. 28-30 Oct, De Duif, www.tribalartfair.nl AMSTERDAM HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL All-night horror movie marathon, themed dinner, makeup workshops, Halloween hotel rooms and kids events - the Amsterdam Halloween Festival offers die-hards 4 days of bloody good fun! Don’t miss the annual costume party on 29 October. This year’s sci-fi theme ‘Dead Space’ will scare you into the next galaxy. 28-31 Oct, various locations, www.halloweenamsterdam. com LONDON CALLING A favourite of music lovers in Amsterdam, taking place twice per year in Paradiso, London Calling showcases a collection of bands who're tipped to make it big, along with a few more who're making a comeback: pop, rock, electronic and beyond. In this edition look out for Explosions in the Sky, Wild Beasts, Silversun Pickups and the Allah-Las. Fri 28 Sat 29, Paradiso, 18:30, €20-€35 24H NOORD Discover new treats north of the River IJ during 24H Noord. It's one of the fastest-changing parts of the city, and this day is the ideal opportunity to revisit favourite places or check out new locations. As always, 24H provides a host of special programming and activities. 29 Oct, various locations, www.iamsterdam.com/24h

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

official sketch artist. Amsterdam City Archives, until 11 Sep

JOURNEY IN TIME: HISTORY & ROYALTY AMY WINEHOUSE: A FAMILY PORTRAIT Experience the main events in the history of De Nieuwe Looking beyond the hype, Kerk right where they took this exhibition presents an place. Six centuries come to intimate portrayal of the life of songstress Amy Winehouse, life as you encounter Holland’s greatest naval heroes and peek emphasising her passion for in on the ceremonies of kings music and fashion, as well and queens. The exhibition as her school days and the features six video walls, light history of her Jewish family. projections, an audio guide, The Winehouse family has ofa wireless photoshoot and fered access to many of Amy's celestial sounds from the personal belongings for this Netherlands’ largest historic collection, while the accompanying stories by her brother pipe organ. Every day there is Alex make the experience even live music in the church, just as there was in the 17th century. more personal. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 11 Sep Jewish Historical Museum, until 4 Sep EXCITEMENT: AN EXHIBITION BY RUDI FUCHS HELMUT NEWTON: A RETROSPECTIVE The Stedelijk has invited Rudi Fuchs, a former director of Admire the work of Helmut the museum, to curate an Newton (1920-2004), a legexhibition that looks back on endary photographer best his career. Fuchs revisits the known for his collaborations collections he's built throughwith French Vogue and the out his lengthy career and his fashion industry. The retrocontribution to the developspective features more than ment of the Dutch state art 200 photographs ranging from collection. his rare to well-known works, Stedelijk Museum, and is a testament to the until 18 Sep complexity and multifaceted nature of his craft. Newton’s THE BEAD GOES ON oeuvre is considered by some An exhibition of all that to be one of the most iconic glitters. Purses, pouches and of the last quarter of the 20th handbags have been adorned century. with intricate beadwork from Foam, until 4 Sep the 18th century through to STEPHEN SHORE: the present day. Discover the RETROSPECTIVE incredible craftsmanship of all things beaded, and even have The work of the American the chance to touch them. photographer Stephen Shore Museum of Bags and Purses, has undoubtedly shaped until 18 Sep contemporary photography and inspired generations of ENCOUNTERS WITH THE photographers. Today he is ORIENT famed both as a chronicler of the ordinary and as a pioneer Get a taste of the Far East with an exhibition that illustrates of colour photography – never the enormous influence that stopping his exploration of the Eastern languages had in the boundaries of photography. Netherlands during the 17th Huis Marseille, until 4 Sep century. You can also gain BANKSY: LAUGH NOW insight into the ingenious distribution system that delivered Last summer the Lionel the artefacts from William Gallery launched a successful Flinders Petrie’s 20th-cenBanksy exhibition in Amstertury Egyptian excavations dam. Now they're picking it worldwide – thereby making up again at their new location, showcasing street art examples it possible for modern man to reconstruct ancient cultures. like his 'Greenfields Beans'. Allard Pierson Museum, Moco Museum, until 4 Sep until 18 Sep MODERN JAPAN Glimpse the dynamic changes that were occurring in Japa- advert nese culture during the first half of the 20th century thanks to this stunning collection of print art. As modern Japan grappled with defining its cultural and political relationships with China and the West, art imitated life. The Japanese prints collected in the exhibition portray both the nation’s appetite for innovation and the preservation of their unique artistic traditions. Rijksmuseum, until 11 Sep DIEUWKE SPAANS Images of Amsterdam by official sketch artist Dieuwke Spaans. The exhibition also includes examples by Hamid el Kanbouhi, Amsterdam's first

MEDEA 1 – 2 SEP SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS

ADRIAEN VAN DE VELDE Approximately 25 paintings and 40 preparatory drawings completed by Adriaen van de Velde (1636-1672) will be exhibited, offering a rare glimpse of a 17th-century Dutch landscape painter at work – from conception to completion. Although this Amsterdam native died at the young age of 35, he managed to produce many paintings that would earn him posthumous fame. Rijksmuseum, until 25 Sep WORLD WAR TWO TODAY Since 2008, World Press Photo-winning photographer Roger Cremers has been collecting images throughout Europe of re-enactments, group tourism to former concentration camps and excavated sites of victims of the battle of Stalingrad. Dutch Resistance Museum, until 25 Sep DYNASTY: PORTRAITS OF ORANGE-NASSAU Many of the families and leaders from the House of Orange-Nassau decorate the walls of Amsterdam's Royal Palace and are on display this summer, providing a great overview of the dynasty's history through the centuries. The oldest portrait, painted circa 1550, portrays Anna van Egmond, the first wife of Willem I. The most recent is the coronation portrait of King Willem-Alexander and Queen Maxima, from 2013. Royal Palace, until 25 Sep REINJAN MULDER: OBJECTIVE NETHERLANDS In the 1970s, photographer Reinjan Mulder wanted to capture the essence of the Netherlands through the lens and developed a method that eliminates any subjective choice. For the project he took 208 photographs across the Netherlands. Rijksmuseum, until 25 Sep WIM PIJBES' KEUZE This small exhibition pays tribute to the former Rijksmuseum director, who departed in 2016. It collects eight of Pijbes' favourite treasures from the museum's collection and offers personal commentary of why they're so important or interesting. Rijksmuseum, until 25 Sep ON THE VERGE OF INSANITY Van Gogh’s mental instability has long been fuel for the imagination and is an infamous aspect of his character. That's why, for the first time, the Van Gogh Museum dedicates an exhibition to this topic, shed-

ding new light on his illness and its impact upon his work, based on paintings, drawings, letters and rare documents. Van Gogh Museum, until 25 Sep CONSTANT. SPACE + COLOR This collections shows the experimental route Dutch artist Constant followed between his CoBrA period and the New Babylon project in the 1950s. It features large-scale architectural constructions created in collaboration with Gerrit Rietveld and Aldo van Eyck. Cobra Museum, until 25 Sep THE ART OF BANKSY This summer exhibition brings together some 100 iconic artworks that tell the story of the (in)famous British street artist. Curated by his agent Steve Lazarides, the items on display include original canvasses, paintings and sculptures. Beurs van Berlage, until 30 Sep 100 YEARS OF INSPIRATION The social housing projects designed by the Amsterdam School rank among the high points of Dutch architecture and can be admired throughout the city. ARCAM is hosting a photo exhibition examining the influence of the Amsterdam School on contemporary architecture and urban design. ARCAM, until 2 Oct PENONE IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM GARDENS Every year the Rijksmuseum presents a sculpture exhibition in its gardens. This fourth edition features the sculpture and installations of the Italian ‘Arte Povera’ sculptor Giuseppe Penone, best known for his Alberi tree sculptures – sturdy wooden trunks and planks, which he peels apart, growth ring by growth ring, to expose the core of the wood. Rijksmuseum, until 1 Oct AVERY SINGER: SCENES The first museum solo exhibition in Europe of the American artist Avery Singer offers a comprehensive view of the artist’s work since 2012. Stedelijk Museum, until 2 Oct GABRIEL LESTER: UNRESOLVED 'Unresolved' shows fragments of projects that Gabriel Lester, a musician and filmmaker turned visual artist, and Raimundas Malasauskas jointly developed, with additional guest appearances, special guests, dialogues, mixes and remixes. De Appel arts centre, until 2 Oct JONG & GAY Photographer Marjolein Annegarn captures the images of teenagers while they tell her what it was like to come to terms with being gay. A oneoff magazine accompanies the exhibition, with more about

the subjects, and about coming out in your teens. Melkweg Gallery, until 9 October

hibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz,

Choice exhibit

AI WEIWEI – #SAFEPASSAGE A collection of images by Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei that document his experiences as a political refugee in China through to the Syrian refugee crisis. The artist and his team visited refugee camps throughout the Mediterranean, snapping heart-wrenching photographs on a mobile phone, which are presented in a floor-to-ceiling collage that is impossible to ignore. Foam, 16 Sep-7 Dec

SECOND SKIN Museum Van Loon and Foam collaborate on ‘Second Skin’, an exhibition that highlights five contemporary artists who explore the human body through the mediums of photography and film, shedding light on self-representation. Museum van Loon, until 18 Sep

THE MYSTERY OF HERCULES SEGERS The idiosyncratic paintings and prints by Golden Age artist Hercules Segers were highly prized by art lovers and artists in his own time. Rembrandt owned no less than eight painted works by Segers. The ‘modern’ character of his art and its enormous rarity has earned Segers an almost mythical status amongst connoisseurs. Here, the Rijksmuseum will exhibit works from its own collection as well as items on loan from the Netherlands and abroad. Rijksmuseum, 20 Sep-9 Jan

PRIDE PHOTO AWARD A celebration of gender and sexual diversity in photographs. See the entries of the Pride Photo Award 2016, including the winning photograph by Turkish photographer Akin Celiktas, whose image is of the pride parade in Istanbul that was broken up by riot police. Oude Kerk, 10 Sep-16 Oct RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired ex-

90 YEARS MISS MONROE In the year that would have marked her 90th birthday, this biographical exhibition opens up Marilyn Monroe’s world – the successful and glamorous external appearance as well as her often lonely inner world. It invites visitors to experience Marilyn through her private objects, including famous articles of clothing, accessories and personal documents. Shown alongside photos and film clips, you'll discover an intimate view of this female icon, both in and away from the camera’s gaze. De Nieuwe Kerk, 1 Oct-5 Feb blues and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown's cape can all be seen. Tropenmuseum, until 30 Oct ARCHITECTURE AND DEATH Funereal customs are changing, but is the architecture around them changing too? Four recent graduates of architecture and design cast a fresh eye on the spaces where

the last rites are played out: hospices, crematoriums and cemeteries. Netherlands Funeral Museum Tot Zover, until 30 Oct ARITA PORCELAIN TODAY The centuries-old tradition of porcelain manufacture in the Japanese town of Arita has entered a new era. Under the supervision of the Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings and the Japanese designer Teruhiro Yanagihara, an elite group of international designers have produced new ceramic creations. Rijksmuseum, until 31 Oct VAN GOGH INSPIRES: MATISSE, KIRCHNER, KANDINSKY What did Van Gogh mean to the generation of artists that followed him? This small exhibition showcases 14 highlights from the Merzbacher Collection, illustrating how Van Gogh influenced the Fauvists and Expressionists. Van Gogh Museum, until 27 Nov MAGALI REUS: MUSTARD The Dutch sculptor, who is now based in London, is earning a growing following for her creative use of familiar, everyday objects. Her thought-provoking abstracts appropriate everything from fridges to padlocks. Stedelijk Museum, 10 Sep-27 Nov DYNASTIE MARUBI Not long after the invention of photography, a portrait studio was set up in northern Albania. 150 years and three generations of photographers later, the portraits offer a fascinating look into the life and times of a relatively unknown country. Foam, 16 Sep-27 Nov 100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL The Amsterdam City Archives joins the Amsterdam Museum in celebrating 100 years of Schiphol. Amsterdam City Archives, 9 Sep-27 Nov CELLULOID In an era when the moving image is almost entirely digitised, this international group exhibition celebrates the unique qualities of analogue film. EYE Filmmuseum, 10 Sep-4 Dec SCARLETT HOOFT GRAAFLAND: SHORES LIKE YOU Photographer Scarlett Hooft Graafland travels to distant, unspoiled shores and works closely with locals to create carefully staged visual poems, where people and landscapes merge. Huis Marseille, 10 Sep-4 Dec MELANIE BONAJO: NIGHT SOIL Since 2012, Dutch artist Melanie Bonajo, who lives and works in Amsterdam and New York, has been working on her trilogy 'Night Soil', a series

sep & oct 2016

of experimental semi-documentary films about cultural phenomena that contradict the linear progression of the capitalist system. Foam, 16 Sep-7 Dec JAPANESE THEATRE COSTUMES 'No Theatre' is a stylised Japanese form of classical drama originating from the 14th century and combining music and dance. The costumes in this Rijksmuseum exhibition chart the changes in this theatrical form down through the centuries, as well as the themes of 'No Theatre'. Rijksmuseum, 21 Oct-13 Dec ARITA HOUSE The aim of the Arita House is to connect contemporary Japanese and Dutch culture. Its exhibition shows the design and production process behind the new porcelain items from the '2016/ Arita' collection, and how the international designers were inspired by Japanese craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Arita House Amsterdam, until 30 Dec EMIGRANTS AT LLOYD HOTEL Between 1921 and 1935 the Lloyd Hotel served as an emigrant hotel for shipping company Royal Dutch Lloyd. The project shows migration has always been a part of human life and is thus very much related to the current (European) reality. Lloyd Hotel, until 31 Dec MOHAMED BOUROUISSA: HORSE DAY Horses, riding and the cowboy culture that exists in Philadelphia inspired Horseday: an exhibition by French-Algerian artist Mohamed Bourouissa. It combines photographs, sculpture and video footage of a competition to find the most elegantly decorated horse. Stedelijk Museum, 10 Sep-1 Jan DREAM OUT LOUD The Stedelijk Museum introduces the up-and-coming talent of 26 artists in their biennial large group exhibition, 'Dream out Loud', showcasing developments in the contemporary design discipline. Those who were chosen from Stedelijk’s ‘open call’ have created work that explores new approaches to relevant social issues and use materials in an innovative way. Stedelijk Museum, until 1 Jan FRANS POST: ANIMALS IN BRAZIL In 1636, as the Dutch cleared their new corner of Brazil for sugar plantations, they brought with them young Haarlem painter Frans Post to record the landscape and its people, flora and fauna. Rijksmuseum, 7 Oct-8 Jan

CATHERINE, THE GREATEST A collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures and personal objects of Catherine the Great make their way from St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, inviting spectators into her world. Many of her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses, and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her decadent life. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 15 Jan DAUBIGNY, MONET, VAN GOGH Enter the world of Charles-Francois Daubigny, a 19th-century painter who influenced Van Gogh and the other famous Impressionists. This major exhibition not only seeks to better understand his method and vision, but also to provide a clearer picture of the interconnections with Van Gogh's work, as well as that of his peers. Van Gogh Museum, 21 Oct-29 Jan THE BUDDHA The Buddha is one of the world’s most inspiring figures and his image is ubiquitous, even in the Netherlands. 100 Buddha statues feature in this exhibition, along with archive material and art telling the Buddha’s life story. Tropenmuseum, 23 Sep-31 Jan ROYAL BAGS See a collection of handbags that were once carried by royalty. Among the highlights are the Hermès Kelly bag designed for Princess Grace, pieces from Queen Elizabeth’s private collection, Louis Vuitton trunks that travelled with Empress Eugénie of France and three bags that Queen Maxima personally selected for this exhibition. Museum of Bags and Purses, 8 Oct-26 Feb JEAN TINGUELY Swiss artist Jean Tinguely is famous for his playful, boldly kinetic machines and explosive performances. Twenty-five years after his death, the Stedelijk Museum mounts the largest ever Dutch retrospective of the artist's work, including machine sculptures, films, photos, drawings and archive materials. Stedelijk Museum, 1 Oct-5 Mar 100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL: READY FOR TAKE-OFF On 19 September 1916, a small plane landed for the first time in muddy pasture by some wooden farm sheds in Haarlemmermeer. A hundred years later, where can Amsterdam Airport Schiphol expand to next? Play air traffic control games, see a WWII bomb and figure out the future of Schiphol at this special centenary exhibition. Amsterdam Museum, 16 Sep-7 May

THE STATE COACH IN THE NETHERLANDS The Van Loon Family travelled in style. See their spectacular golden carriage, which has recently been restored, in the coach house. Museum van Loon, 14 Oct-30 Jan

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS

REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution. BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques. GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons. HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century. HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life. VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th Century. HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

ADDRESSES Allard Pierson Museum Oude Turfmarkt 127 www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 www.amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl

Beurs Van Berlage Damrak 243 www.beursvanberlage.com Body Worlds Damrak 66 www.bodyworlds.nl De Appel Arts Centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61 www.verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A www.dehortus.nl Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 www.jhm.nl Madame Tussauds Dam 20 www.madametussauds.com Micropia Plantage Kerklaan 38 www.micropia.nl/en De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Oudekerk Oudekerksplein 23 www.oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam Dam square www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl

Money is a matter of trust. Just like love. Without trust, there’s no love. And no money. Because trust is the foundation of our monetary system. Discover it in the DNB Visitors’ Centre. You are welcome on weekdays from 9:00 to 17:00. Admission is free, so please bring someone along. Perhaps someone you love.

Experience the DNB Visitors’ Centre www.dnb.nl/visitors-centre

PART IV

ADVERTORIAL

I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD

S P EC I A L OFFER

The panoram A'DAM Lookout ic vi from the ew of Amsterdam A'DAM To €2.50 dis ren: coun t with yo I amsterd am City C ur ard

You’ll be surprised at how much of Amsterdam and the surrounding region you can see with your I amsterdam City Card. Get out of town ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM The museum tells the story of the Zuiderzee region, which was closed off by the IJsselmeer Barrier Dam in 1932. The 'Flooded' exhibition shows what the devastation of the last major flood looked like 100 years ago, recreated in the Outdoor Museum and along the jetties. It also explores the wondrous feats of engineering that keep the Dutch lowlands safe from other dike breaches.

MUSEUM HET SCHIP

FYODOR ROKOTOV, PORTRAIT OF CATHERINE THE GREAT, 1780–90

In Amsterdam

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card:

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM CATHERINE THE GREATEST Until 15 October

A collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures and personal objects of Catherine the Great make their way from St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, inviting spectators into her world. This exhibition offers a unique glimpse into the life of Europe’s longest-reigning empress. Many of her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her decadent life. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

MUSEUM HET SCHIP 100 YEARS AMSTERDAMSE SCHOOL Until 1 December

In 2016, the city is celebrating 100 years of its iconic 'Amsterdamse School' style of design and architecture. The beautiful Museum Het Schip, considered one of the finest examples of the 'working-class palaces' that used this style, now dedicates its vast space to exhibiting objects and photographs of buildings in the Amsterdamse School style. FREE entrance with I amsterdam City Card

THE I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD INCLUDES: • Free entrance to over 40 museums • Free public transport in Amsterdam • Free canal cruise and more

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

FERRY EXPERIENCE If you would like to visit Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot while enjoying magnificent views over the water, it is possible to take the morning boat from Amsterdam (departure from IJburg) via Fort Island Pampus to Muiden with the Amsterdam Tourist Ferry (Veerdienst Amsterdam), or from Muiden to Fort Island Pampus (return). 25% discount with your I amsterdam City Card on the Amsterdam – Muiden ferry trip and on the ferry trip & entrance to Fort Island Pampus. Visit www.pampus.nl and www.veerdienstamsterdam.nl for ferry dates and timetables. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card at Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET This special 24-hour public transport pass is valid on metros, trams and buses operated by GVB, Connexxion, Arriva and EBS. Get yours for the special price of €10 with the I amsterdam City Card (normal price €13.50).

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The I amsterdam City Card is available at I amsterdam Visitor Centres, I amsterdam Store, hotels, canal cruise companies and GVB Tickets & Info offices. For more information, see www.iamsterdam.com/citycard

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PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP UP THE VOLUME Boom Chicago's political comedy team is reunited for the impending US election. Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but are they ready for President Donald Trump? Sep & Oct, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices BEST OF BOOM 2016 After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom'. Sep & Oct, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices ROMEO & JULIA 400 years since the death of Shakespeare, see the bard’s work as you’ve never seen it before, with circus, theatre and music in an explosive celebration of love. until Sat 3 Sep (Tue-Sat), Amsterdamse Bostheater, 21:00, €16.50 HANS KLOK: HOUSE OF HORROR The master illusionists of yesteryear feel threatened by iconic Dutch magician Hans Klok… and they’ve come back from the grave to haunt him. This spooky show full of theatricality is set to make your hair stand on end. until Sun 2 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices MEDEA In this modernised version by Toneelgroep Amsterdam, directed by the Australian Simon Stone, Euripides is a successful doctor who tries to save her marriage and her career while her mental health deteriorates until she tumbles into the abyss. In Dutch with English surtitles on the following dates: Thur 1 & Fri 2 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €21€33.50 EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, high-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. There’s also an early bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats, themes and open podiums. every Fri, Crea Café, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival

is a celebration of Dutch and Flemish theatre, presenting a selection of last season’s best productions. There are a number of performances with English surtitles or that are suitable for non-Dutch speakers. 1-11 Sep, various locations and prices AMSTERDAM FRINGE FESTIVAL The festival for young, fresh ’n’ new theatre takes over Amsterdam’s stages, clubs, streets and living rooms once again with more than 80 performances, many of which are suitable for non-Dutch speakers. Staging a huge array of productions by cutting-edge home-grown and international producers and artists, the eccentricity that is the Fringe comes alive in bizarre, brooding and brilliant productions, including theatre, musical theatre, comedy and dance. 1-11 Sep, various locations and prices BEDTIME STORIES This production by artist Thomas Dudkiewicz takes the form of a radio play performed in a theatre and is centred around a girl named Lily, whose father and grandfather tell her the most fantastic stories every night. In English. Fri 2 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 19:30 & 22:00, €17.50 DE MAN IN EUROPE For this solo performance Lucas De Man travelled through Europe, visiting 17 cities in eight countries and conducting interviews with more than 20 creators rooting for change, who are all working on remodelling their society. Lucas takes you with him on his journey through Europe’s history. (Please note that the matinee is in Dutch.) Sat 3 Sep, Theater Bellevue, 15:00, 20:30, €22.50 LE NOZZE DI FIGARO Directed by David Bösch, the Dutch National Opera performs Mozart’s Figaro, which, despite a whirlwind storyline worthy of any soap, leaves plenty of space for social criticism. Various dates between Tue 6 and Tue 26 Sep, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 19:00, Sun 14:00, €22-€176 GALA The Dutch National Ballet opens the new ballet season with a grand and glittering performance featuring nearly 200 dancers. The entire ensemble performs in a Grand Défilé alongside pupils of the National Ballet Academy before moving into in a rich and varied programme. Wed 7 Sep, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 19:30, €60-€125 SCHWALBE PERFORMS A TIME Kicking off at midnight, this all-night theatre experience by Theatercollectief Schwalbe invites you to both spectate and inhabit the theatre space as the stage is rebuilt and new scenes emerge. Fri 9 & Sat 10 Sep, Theater Bellevue, midnight, €22.50-€25

Choice theatre

for nearly 140 years. Various dates between Sat 8 Oct and Sun 13 Nov, Dutch National Opera, 20:15, Sun 14:00, €19-€92 MANON LESCAUT In the DNO's production of Puccini's third opera, the perspective is shifted: Instead of her lover, Manon herself (sung by Eva Maria Westbroek) looks back on her life. Various dates between Mon 10 and Mon 31 Oct, Dutch National Opera, 20:00, Sun 14:00, €22-€176

BILL BAILEY British comedian Bill Bailey is one of those few comic examples to have made their name mixing music and laughs without the humour rapidly evaporating. In part, that’s thanks to his witty look at the modern world – be it science, nature or just plain silliness – but also because he’s much more musically diverse and weaves a whole host of weird and wonderful instruments into his shows. This time, 'Limboland' is loosely inspired by the gap between how we imagine our lives to be and how they really are. 23 Sep, RAI Theater, 20:00, €33-€42.90 FRACTUS V Celebrated Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, performs in his new creation, inspired by Noam Chomsky, about the fractures necessary for creative growth. It brings together a rich palette of dance styles, with circus-trained Dimitri Jourde, Lindy Hop dancer Johnny Lloyd, flamenco dancer Thomé Duten and breakdancer Patrick Williams Seebacher. Tue 13 & Wed 14 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €22.50€42.50 DUTCH MASTERS As a tribute to choreographer/ set designer Toer van Schayk, the Dutch National Ballet is presenting masterpieces from the repertoire of Van Schayk and his contemporaries and compatriots Hans van Manen and Rudi van Dantzig. Various dates between Wed 14 and Sun 25 Sep, Dutch National Ballet, 20:15, Sun 14:00, €15-€61 THE GLASS MENAGERIE American director Sam Gold directs Toneelgroep Amsterdam in this performance of the Tennessee Williams classic. In Dutch, with English surtitles. Thur 15 & 22 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€36.50 RECOVERY Performance artist Florentina Holzinger processes a past accident and her long recovery from it by literally stepping into the ring, fighting to retrieve her physical abilities. Wed 14 Sep, Frascati, 21:15, €17 I WILL WAIT FOR YOU Choreographer Arno Schuitemaker, much lauded for his simple, yet entrancing productions, delves into the intangibility of love. Tue 20-Thur 22 Sep, Frascati, 20:30, €17 6: THE SQUARE Choreographer Nicole Beutler

brings together eight dancers and one actress to investigate the significance of the square in our society. Sun 25 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €10-€27.50 HORROR Taking every traditional horror movie trope off the screen and into the theatre, this acclaimed production has been scaring and startling audiences over the past year. Created by Jakop Ahlbom, it's horror by name, horror by nature, generating suspense, shocks and fear through its creative scripting and freakish special effects. And with no reliance on the spoken word, this visual feast is perfect for thrilling international audiences as well as locals. Wed 28 Sep-Sat 1 Oct, DeLaMar Theater, 19:30/20:00, €17.50-€27.5 HUSBANDS AND WIVES Simon Stone, master of modern drama adaptations, and Toneelgroep Amsterdam take on Woody Allen’s famous tragicomedy about divorce. In Dutch with English surtitles. Thur 29 Sep & Thur 6 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €21€33.50 SPEAK LOW IF YOU SPEAK LOVE The new production by renowned Belgian choreographer Wim Vandekeybus is, you might have guessed it, about love. Mon 3 & Tue 4 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€37.50 ARIADNE AUF NAXOS One of Richard Strauss’s best loved operas, performed exactly 100 years after its first performance in Vienna. Thur 6 & Sat 8 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €15-€70 LA BAYADÈRE The ballet about the love between Indian temple dancer Nikiya and warrior Solor has been capturing ballet lovers' hearts

HAPPINESS Inspired by the film ‘Happiness’ by American director Todd Solondz, international dance company Club Guy & Roni and the musicians of Slagwerk Den Haag go on the hunt for happiness. Expect an absurd and bittersweet comedy with the theatrical and explosive dance style of the award-winning choreographers Guy Weizman and Roni Haver. Fri 14 & Sat 15 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €12.50-€32.50 DANIEL SLOSS Fresh off a sold-out run at the Edinburgh fringe, the 'half man, half Xbox' joke machine embarks on a European tour with his new show 'SO?', stopping off in Amsterdam's Toomler on the way. Sun 30 Oct, Toomler, 20:30, €17.50 ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 020 525 1423 www.crea.uva.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl RAI Theater Europaplein 22 020 549 1212 www.rai.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255 www.carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 020 530 5301 www.theaterbellevue.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl

sep & oct 2016

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ Choice pop & jazz

in songs originally by legends such as James Brown, Aretha Franklin, Stevie Wonder and BETH ORTON Marvin Gaye, along with music from the new generation: the Singer-songwriter Beth Orton likes of Raphael Saadiq, Musiq was best known in her early days for her electronic elements Soulchild and Leela James. The and for collaborations with acts band comprises Jimi Bellmartin such as the Chemical Brothers, (The Soul Snatchers), Ivan PeroWilliam Orbit and Red Snapper, ti (Sven Hammond Soul), David Dam (The Voice) and Jaxswing. as well as contributions to a host of American film and TV Fri 9 Sep, Paradiso, 20:00, €10 soundtracks. Over the years, NTJAM ROSIE she’s moved further towards The Rotterdam singer Ntjam folk, her musical style now best described as folktronica, but her Rosie has taken centre stage at latest album harks back to that the North Sea Jazz Club before, but this sees her back for the spaced-out dance vibe. first time since producing her Thur 1 Sep, Tolhuistuin, critically-acclaimed album 'The 20:30, €20 MITSKI One'. After a diversion into pop, FRANK VAN BOMMEL Rosie is back to her soul and A songstress on the cusp of something big, Mitski has QUINTET jazz roots with this intimate, emerged from the DIY scene with an array of lyrically-incisive self-penned collection of songs The Bimhuis concert season but rough-around-the-edges indie pop. At least that's how it about love. gets underway with the unstood before the release of her latest album 'Puberty 2', which Fri 9 Sep, North Sea Jazz Club, mistakable improvised jazz of began picking up rave reviews from every corner this summer. 21:00, €15-€18 pianist Frank van Bommel, who With a guitar-based sound that references the '90s but isn't has played with the NetherSAM BEAM & JESCA HOOP actually stuck in the past, this intimate club show may be a lands' very best in groups such Iron & Wine troubadour Sam as Bite the Gnatze and the As final chance to catch Mitski in Amsterdam before mainstream Beam and guitar-playing singIf Trio. Here he leads a freshly success properly kicks in. put together band of old hands, er-songwriter Jesca Hoop get toMon 26 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, €10 ready for some edge-of-the-seat gether to tour their new album of duets, 'Love Letter for Fire', 'instant composing'. released on legendary indie Fri 2 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, label Sub Pop. The concert takes €15-€18 place in a former church and FRIDAY NIGHT OUT is part of the Sugar Mountain Presents series for lovers of roots House band The Fresh Cuts and Americana. invite jazz trumpeter Eric Sun 11 Sep, De Duif, 20:30, Vloeimans and others to join €20 them for this night of live music, dinner and drinks, followed by KARL BLAU dancing till late with DJ The Karl Blau is something of an Groove Supplier. Fri 2 Sep, North Sea Jazz Club, American DIY indie legend. He PJ HARVEY PAUL SIMON releases his eclectic folk/indie 20:30, €5-€17.50 rock music, along with his own Arguably comparable to The half of Simon & GarBEN MILLER BAND cover art, directly from his home peers like Björk and Kate funkel who goes by the in Anacortes, Washington, The Missouri 'Mudstomp' of the Bush, PJ Harvey does name Paul (not Al), this through a subscription service Ben Miller Band combines elewhatever she wants when folk-pop troubadour last called the Kelp Lunacy Adments of folk, blues, bluegrass it comes to music. From stopped by Amsterdam vanced Plagiarism Society. His and country with an authenticher raw guitar rock of 'Dry' with his mate Sting. This ity demonstrated by the fact the latest album, 'Introducing Karl and 'Rid of Me', through to Blau', revisits the Nashville hits bassist plays a homemade onetime the gig's sure to be of the 1960s and ’70s and makes string washtub bass. the glossy pop of 'Stories a celebration of his own them all his very own. Mon 5 Sep, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, from the City, Stories from musical career to date, Sun 11 Sep, Paradiso, 20:00, €15 the Sea', and then onto the veering from his earliest €10 uncompromising success of hits, through 'Graceland' M WARD 'Let England Shake', Harvey and onto newest album FATOUMATA DIAWARA He hardly ever gives interviews leads, never follows. Her lat- 'Stranger to Stranger'. With her long-awaited debut and his music is hard to piest continues down this path. Unsurprisingly, Simon suralbum in 2011, Fatoumata geon-hole, but M. Ward’s ardent Diawara secured her spot as a fan base includes Conor Oberst In 'The Hope Six Demolition rounds himself with a folk star in the African pop world. of Bright Eyes, Meg White from Project', recorded in a studio ensemble of outstanding Mixing the traditional WassouThe White Stripes and Noel open to the public gaze, quality, so count on musical lou style with Western pop and Gallagher of Oasis fame. The each song looks at modern wizardry rather than showOregon-based singer-songwriter jazz, the singer delves into the social issues. biz bling. problems facing African women records his idiosyncratic folk Sun 16 Oct, Heineken Music Mon 31 Oct, Ziggo Dome, in their daily lives, along with and blues-inspired Americana Hall, 20:00, €45 her own past troubles. Allow on the four-track he got in his 20:00, €50-€89 yourself to be swept away in a teens, and released his eighth stream of hypnotic melodies. album, 'More Rain', earlier this Mon 12 Sep, Paradiso, 20:30, and multi-instrumentalist Mat five songs in five days before year. €28.50 McHugh is best known as the stopping to realise that they had Thur 8 Sep, Paradiso, 20:30, frontman of successful band The actually started a band. Their €20 WALLIS BIRD Beautiful Girls, who chalked debut album, 'Centerfold', came NEW COOL COLLECTIVE & Irish singer-songwriter Wallis up a dozen world tours in eight out in February this year, full of MATT BIANCO Bird has been compared to a years. In 2008 he stripped it subtle, catchy synthpop recordyoung Janis Joplin, fusing eleback to the basics, recording an ed on the move with minimal One of the Dutch jazz scene’s analogue gear. most pioneering bands of recent ments of traditional folk music, acoustic solo album that would Sat 17 Sep, Bitterzoet, 21:00, decades, New Cool Collective, blues and funk with an energetic point him in a new direction of handmade rock sound. From honest, simple, 'hippie idealism', €9 gets together with old North Sea Jazz Club favourite Mark Reilly, soft folk ballads to rousing pow- set more recently to electronic JESU & SUN KIL MOON and dub beats. of British pop group Matt Bian- er songs, her voice can do it all, and her next album – out this Fri 16 Sep, Paradiso, 20:00, This special show brings togethco, resulting in an explosive mix autumn – is highly anticipated. €13 er Jesu, the noisy shoegaze proof funky jazz and soulful pop. Wed 14 Sep, Sugarfactory, ject of British composer Justin Thur 8 Sep, North Sea Jazz MOTHXR 20:30, €11.50 Broadrick, and Mark Kozelek, Club, 21:00, €25 The electronic indie band from the confessional singer-songMAT MCHUGH & SOUL LIVE Brooklyn, New York, has been writer behind Red House THE YUM YUMS a download hit since forming Painters and Sun Kil Moon. Lovers of soul music young and Australian singer-songwriter spontaneously and recording Somehow the two fit perfectly old can immerse themselves

POP & JAZZ

together, releasing an album at the start of 2016 – although a tour together was still a surprise. Tue 20 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:30, €20-€25 FLATBUSH ZOMBIES After years experimenting with psychedelic drugs, Meechy Darko, Zombie Juice and Erick 'Arc' Elliott have forged a dark and trippy style of rap that’s all their very own. Undoubtedly the Beast Coast hip-hop crew will be excited about returning to Amsterdam. Thur 22 Sep, Paradiso, 20:30, €24 AOSOON Expect ethereal acoustic R&B pop underpinned with poignant, grounded narratives from South London duo AOSOON (Alot of Something Out of Nothing). Marisa Hylton (vocals and guitar) and Manny Folorunso (bass) slice through the noise of everyday life with soothing intimacy. Thur 22 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, €11.50 JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE CONCERTGEBOUW Two of Dutch jazz’s freshest new talents get together with the nation’s big band, the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw. Versatile Frisian singer Hiske Oosterwijk brings self-penned songs to the stage, while the compositions of pianist Sebastiaan van Bavel fuse classical music with jazz. Thur 22 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15. €22-€27.50 STURGILL SIMPSON Simpson performs a traditional style of country music despite the ‘alternative’ tag he’s often labelled with. Born in Jackson, Kentucky, he certainly looks and sounds like the real deal, with a mix of lonesome ballads and honky tonk. His universally acclaimed third studio album, 'A Sailor’s Guide to Earth', released earlier this year, features the brassy sounds of The DapKings, and celebrates the birth of his son. Fri 23 Sep, Paradiso, 20:30, €17.50 HAPPY BIRTHDAY JOHN COLTRANE (23-9-1926) Classical saxophonist Ties Mellema and jazz pianist Rembrandt Frerichs celebrate the anniversary of one of the most influential musicians of the 20th century, making the most of the space afforded for interpretation and improvisation in jazz and classical music. How would Bach have played his own music live? Mellema and Frerichs go back to first principles to come up with new answers. Fri 23 Sep, Splendor, 20:15, €16 LUTHER DICKINSON Born in Memphis, Tennessee, Dickinson is known to many as lead guitarist and vocalist for the North Mississippi Allstars as well as a key member of The Black Crowes in recent years. An innovator in modern blues, he also has a keen respect for

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ/CLASSICAL JAZZ its rich history, delving back to his musical origins in his latest album 'Blues & Ballads'. Sat 24 Sep, Bitterzoet, 20:00, €12.50 THREE NATIONS UNDER ONE GROOVE Three prestigious youth big bands get together. Prepare to have the cobwebs blown away by NYJO from the UK, BuJazzO from Germany, and the Netherlands' very own Nationaal Jeugd Jazz Orkest (NJJO). Sun 25 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:00, €12.50

ing on to form The Babies with Kevin Morby. Fri 30 Sep, Paradiso, 22:00, €8 STARS OF THE LID American drone-based ambient music duo Brian McBride and Adam Wiltzie create beatless soundscapes of droning, effects-treated guitar, piano, strings and horns, given dynamism with volume swells and feedback. Take a seat, close your eyes, and enjoy the beautiful, slow-moving treats of 'your own personal cinema, located between your eye and eyelid'. Sat 1 Oct, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €16

PLAID London electronic music duo Andy Turner & Ed Handley, HANS DULFER better known as Plaid, released their first EP in 1989, and this On 1 October 1974 Hans Dulfer year sees the release of their 17th opened the first Bimhuis at Oualbum, 'The Digging Remedy'. deschans, and he’s still blazing a With stuttering beats and heav- trail after 60 years on the Dutch enly synths, they have altered jazz and pop scene. The ‘tough the DNA of contemporary elec- tenor’ has never stopped listentronic music and hip-hop. ing out for new sounds, and his Sun 25 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, latest band – as energetic as ever €15 – regularly welcomes unexpected guests such as breakdancers, ALL TVVINS rappers and DJs. Irish duo Lar Kaye and Conor Sat 1 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, Adams have left their indie €13-€16 band days far behind them, MODERAT embracing the innocent joys of synth-led, pop-friendly tunes, Fourteen years ago, two heaveven doing the odd Justin Bieyweight Berlin pioneers of ber cover. Big on the internet, electronica, Modeselektor and they’ve been signed to Sony and Apparat, came together to form have over a million streams on supergroup Moderat. The bass Spotify under their belts. of the former combines with the Tue 27 Sep, Paradiso, 20:00, pop-loving electronics of the €10 latter and the trio continues to break new ground. BRYAN FERRY Sat 1 Oct, Heineken Music English music legend Bryan Hall, 20:00, €35 Ferry hits Amsterdam on two THE DOORS ALIVE separate nights this autumn. Despite the scale of the former The sound, look and essence Roxy Music frontman’s success, of The Doors are brought back he likes to play in small, intito life by this top tribute band, mate settings and this is the first conjuring you straight back to time such an artist has played the late sixties. The Doors Alive both Carré and Paradiso in one use precisely the same instrutour. ments as The Doors themselves, Thur 29 Sep, Paradiso, 20:30 perfecting the illusion that / Wed 5 Oct, Royal Theatre you’re right back there in the Carré, 20:00 summer of love. Sat 1 Oct, Q-Factory, 19:30, COLLEEN GREEN & €23 CASSIE RAMONE HALEY REINHART A double solo bill from two American indie singers, Colleen Young singer Haley Reinhart Green and Cassie Ramone. kicked off her career on 'AmeriGreen mixes garage, slacker can Idol' and played a large part rock and pop, hiding a big voice in the success of Scott Bradlee’s behind the permanently affixed Postmodern Jukebox, bending sunglasses, while Ramone rose her versatile three-octave voice to prominence as guitarist and to whatever was thrown at her, vocalist of the Vivian Girls, goand totting up 18 million views of her cover of Radiohead’s advert 'Creep'. Sun 2 Oct, Bitterzoet, 20:00, €15

HUSBANDS AND WIVES

29 SEP, 6 OCT | SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

VIJAY IYER TRIO Consistently receiving accolades in recent years, Vijay Iyer's album 'Break Stuff ' has got the critics excited again. The break in question, says Iyer, is 'a span of time in which to act. It’s the basis for breakdowns, breakbeats, and break dancing... it can be the moment when everything comes to life.' Sun 2 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, €17 MØ Dealing in intensely soulful electro pop, this Danish star has been attracting an increasingly

international audience for a couple of years. She's already worked with the likes of Diplo and Iggy Azalea. Tue 4 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, €19

rock star (but with more musical chops). Mon 17 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, €23-€28

SCOTT MATTHEWS Engaging, soulful English folkWOVENHAND blues singer-songwriter Scott Former 16 Horsepower frontMatthews has shared the stage man David Eugene Edwards, with Foo Fighters, Snow Patrol, grandson of a travelling NazRufus Wainwright, Tori Amos arene preacher, goes by the and Robert Plant. He describes name Wovenhand, bewitching his last album, 'Home Part 1', his audiences with deep, gothic as sepia-like and grainy, while country/folk songs. Expect dark, his new album, 'Home Part 2' spiritual intensity and a hint of promises to be 'the complete opthe apocalypse. posite, with a very Technicolor Wed 5 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, outlook'. €21 Mon 17 Oct, Paradiso, 20:00, €14 BJ THE CHICAGO KID SELENA GOMEZ Chicago R&B and soul singer-songwriter BJ co-wrote a Glistening dance pop from the song for Dave Hollister at the Disney superstar that crossed age of 17, and sang on a Kanye over into the music world. West single at 22. He’s best This time she's bringing her known for his frequent collabacclaimed 'Revival' tour across orations with artists Schoolboy to Europe, hitting all the major Q, Ab-Soul, Kendrick Lamar arenas in the process, so expect and Jay Rock, among others. a sensory explosion. Fri 1 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, €19 Tue 18 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €36-€81 SEASICK STEVE ICP ORCHESTRA Four days after the release of his new album, 'Keepin' the Horse Although established back in Between Me and the Ground', 1967, the Instant Composers blues veteran Seasick Steve is Pool can still rock and shock back in Paradiso for two nights most of their youthful peers in a row. Since Jools Holland under the table. Be it freak-out put him on the world stage 10 jazz or more classical structures, years ago, the 73-year old has these improvisers have an approduced seven albums and parent mind meld that allows continues to charm with his duthem to break every rule and bious anecdotes and duct-taped push every boundary while reguitars. maining on the same energetic Tue 11 & Wed 12 Oct, Paradiso, page. At the core is drummer 20:30, €30 Han Bennink, who hits, kicks and slaps out rhythms mere TURIN BRAKES mortals can’t imagine. The London folk-poppers’ Thur 20 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, trademark West-Coast acoustic €20 guitar and widescreen harmoMAXWELL & MARY J. BLIGE ny textures wrap themselves around Olly Knight’s enigmatic Two R&B superstars join forces lyrics in their new material. for one huge show. Mary J. Blige It's still as intimate as ever, but has been a chart topper since with a new leaning towards the early '90s, and although epic darkness. busy with acting in recent years, Fri 14 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, she has a wealth of soulful tunes €15 to break out tonight. That's not to say neo-soul star Maxwell IAN SEAGAL BAND can't hold his own alongside her, Just two years since the British with two decades' of smooth bluesman recorded his celesongs at his disposal. brated live album 'One Night Tue 25 Oct, Ziggo Dome, in Amsterdam' at the North 20:00, €54 Sea Jazz Club, he’s back in the JAMIE LIDELL room with a 25th anniversary concert. One of the soul pop scene’s Sun 16 Oct, North Sea Jazz most creative talents over the Club, 21:00, €20-€24 past decade, Lidell matches classic crooning vocals with ZUCCHERO beatboxing, edgy sampling and Zucchero, the father of the contemporary dance beats. Italian blues has sold over 60 His newest release is 'Build a million records worldwide and Beginning', out this month, enjoyed a host of hits including once again pushing the limits of 'Donne', 'Senza una Donna', traditional soul, funk and pop to 'Diamante' and 'Il Volo'. Let a new degree. the sweet Italian blues and pop Tue 25 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, wash over you on the Dutch €20 stop of his grand world tour. PASSENGER Mon 17 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €35-€49 From busker to arena pop star in 10 years, Passenger has THE BAD PLUS topped the charts in 16 counA jazz band for jazz lovers as tries with hit single 'Let Her Go'. well as those afraid of jazz. The British singer-songwriter From Nirvana to Stravinsky, sold out his date in the Heinekthis trio will try their hand at en Music Hall so quickly that just about anything. They have the show was relocated to the an outstanding live reputation substantially larger Ziggo Dome. too, showing all the coolness Wed 26 Oct, Ziggo Dome, and confidence of any hyped 20:00, €35

FIFTH HARMONY The American girl band were signed up by Simon Cowell after the second season of 'The X-Factor USA' and have sold more records than any other contestants since, including their global super-hit 'Worth It'. This tour celebrates the release of their second studio album, '7/27'. Thur 27 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €36-€56 BRIT FLOYD After their successful 2015 tour, Pink Floyd tribute band Brit Floyd returns to the Netherlands with their latest production: 'Space and Time CONTINUUM'. Some of the world’s best tribute musicians take a spectacular ride through the Pink Floyd catalogue, including 'The Dark Side of the Moon', 'Wish You Were Here', 'Animals' and 'The Wall'. Fri 28 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €49-€55 MARC RIBOT CERAMIC DOG Ceramic Dog is a band made up of guitarist Marc Ribot plus Shahzad Ismaily, a largely selftaught American-Pakistani bassist, and drummer Ches Smith. As always, anything goes when this elastic trio find their gear: rock, rap, electronics or jazz classics. Fri 28 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, €20 LONDON CALLING A favourite of music lovers in Amsterdam, taking place twice per year in Paradiso, London Calling showcases a collection of bands who're tipped to make it big, along with a few more who're making a comeback: pop, rock, electronic and beyond. In this edition look out for Explosions in the Sky, Wild Beasts, Silversun Pickups, The Duke Spirit and the Allah-Las. Fri 28 & Sat 29, Paradiso, 18:30, €20-€35 DANIEL NORGREN Swedish singer-songwriter Norgren has been compared to everything from Tom Waits to a Swiss Army Knife, playing both guitar and drums (sometimes at the same time). His music ranges from blues to gospel to circus music. Yes, you read that right, circus music. All that aside, his live performances are notably mesmeric and charming, and he's picked up new fans every time he comes through town. Mon 31 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, €20

CLASSICAL MONUMENTEN 1920 The ensemble continues its concert series with a concert in the impressive De Bazel building, home to the Amsterdam City Archives. Sat 10 Sep, Amsterdam City Archives, time and price tba LUNCHTIME CONCERT AT WESTERKERK Every Friday at lunchtime, a free organ recital takes place in Am-

sep & oct 2016

MUSIC/CLASSICAL sterdam's famous Westerkerk. Fridays, Westerkerk, 13:00, free TAÍLDE ENSEMBLE: EXILE AND NATIONALISM The Portuguese duo performs works that are all, in one way or another, related to the concept of exile. The programme includes music by Giuseppe Tartini, Beethoven, DvoÐák, Shostakovich and Brahms. Sat 3 Sep, English Reformed Church, 20:15, €23

bouw, 18:00, €130-€275 CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM – UMBRAE MORTIS Capella Amsterdam performs works about the theme of memories, including Pascal Dusapin's 'mini requiem' Umbrae mortis, 'Sechs geistliche Lieder' by Hugo Wolf and music by Brahms. Sat 10 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 NATIONAL ORGAN DAY The Dutch National Organ day is organised at venues all over the country each September. The Amsterdam edition features a recital by Henk Verhoef, organist of the Nieuwe Kerk. Sat 10 Sep, Oosterkerk, 10:00, free

WALKING CONCERT THROUGH JEWISH AMSTERDAM Organised by Museum Geelvinck, this walking concert takes visitors to three locations. At each of them, they can listen TRIO CANTABILE – BERLIOZ to a different ensemble: BRISK FANTASTIQUE performs Portuguese and Dutch music from the 17th century The trio performs Berlioz' Symand a new work by Gijs Levelt phonie Fantastique and concert in the Portuguese Synagogue; songs, arias and duets from his Musica Amphion plays works by 'La Damnation de Faust', 'Les 17th- and 18th-century Jewish Troyens', 'Benvenuto Cellini' and composers in the Uilenburg 'Les nuits d'été'. Etudes by Liszt Synagogue; and Camerata are also on the programme. Trajectina performs works from Sun 11 Sep, English Reformed Rembrandt's time in the RemChurch, 15:15, €17.50 brandt House. SIGNUM QUARTET Sun 4 Sep, various locations, 11:30/14:30, €45 The string quartet from Cologne performs works by Haydn and ORKEST VAN HET OOSTEN & Brahms. DEJAN LAZIC Sun 11 Sep, Royal ConcertgePianist Dejan Lazic joins the bouw, 11:00, €20-€26 orchestra for performances of SUNDAY AFTERNOON Mendelssohn's Fourth SymORGAN RECITAL phony – the Italian Symphony, inspired by a trip the young Today, De Duif 's monthly organ composer took through Europe recital hosts Jan Pieter Lanooy. – and Mozart's Piano Concerto Sun 11 Sep, De Duif, 16:00, free no. 23. Jan Willem de Vriend LUNCH-TIME ORGAN conducts. RECITAL Sun 4 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26 Organ students of the Conservatorium, Amsterdam's music ELEONORE PAMEIJER & academy, play on the church's MARCEL WORMS Müller organ in this free monthThe Amsterdam-based duo ly lunchtime concert. (flute and piano) play a cheerful Tue 13 Sep & Tue 11 Oct, programme with works by AmWaalse Kerk, 12:00, free sterdam composers from past THE ROYAL CONCERTGEand present, including Leo Smit, Henriëtte Bosmans and Alphons BOUW ORCHESTRA – MAHLER'S RESURRECTION SYMDiepenbrock. There are also two PHONY premieres: new compositions by Chiel Meijering and Willem The Royal Concertgebouw OrWander van Nieuwkerk. chestra's new conductor Daniele Sun 4 Sep, Amsterdam City Gatti conducts Mahler's famous Archives, 11:00, €10 Second Symphony, known as the Resurrection Symphony. Gatti YOUNG TALENT – has already had quite a run with NOUD SMEETS Mahler and the RCO, having The young pianist performs conducted the third, fifth, sixth works by Bach, Beethoven, and ninth symphonies in previChopin and others. ous years. Tue 6 Sep, Oosterkerk, 20:00, Wed 14-Fri 16 & Sun 18 Sep, free Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15 (Sun 14:00), €35-€140 RCO OPENING NIGHT – INAUGURATION DANIELE NIEUW AMSTERDAMS PEIL – GATTI RUSSIAN SOULS The Royal Concertgebouw The Belgian soprano joins the Orchestra's new conductor is ensemble for a musical exploinaugurated at the festive openration of how various Russian ing of the new season. The night composers dealt with the idea of begins with an elegant 'walking death. With works by Shostakdinner', followed by perforovich, Alexander Raskatov and mances of Beethoven's Egmont Galina Ustvolskaja. overture (with the Dutch NaThur 15 Sep, Muziekgebouw tional Youth Orchestra), works aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 by Schubert, Ottorino Respighi AMSTERDAM CHAMBER and Verdi, plus a number of muORCHESTRA: A STROLL sical surprises. After the music THROUGH VIENNA it's time for mingling with the musicians. Dress: black tie. With Franziska Hölscher on Fri 9 Sep, Royal Concertgebe- violin, the Amsterdam Chamber

Choice classical

Sun 18 Sep, Werkgebouw Het Veem, 15:00, €17.50 AMSTERDAM BAROQUE ORCHESTRA – BACH FAVOURITES The Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra, pioneers of the period performance practice, plays some of the eternal favourites among Bach's oeuvre: two of the Brandenburg Concertos and two Orchestral Suites. Sat 18 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 'IJ, 15:00, €37

CANTO OSTINATO SOLO Simeon ten Holt's repetitive, meditative masterpiece, beloved by Dutch audiences, is remarkable in the freedom it leaves the performer – in terms of style, order and in the actual mode of performing, making each performance a new experience for the listener. Often played by two or four pianos, it can be heard tonight in a special solo performance by renowned Dutch performer Polo de Haas. Works by Scriabin and Philip Glass are also included in the programme. Sat 24 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €32.50 Orchestra takes an evening stroll through Vienna by way of Mozart and Haydn. Peter Santa conducts. Thur 15 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35 FRIDAY AFTERNOON CONCERT A clarinet quintet consisting of Anna Prazeres (clarinet), Matthijs van der Wel (violin), Ernst Jan Vos (violin), Martin Moriarty (viola) and Hadewych van Gent (cello) plays works by Mozart and Dvorák. Fri 16 Sep, Oosterkerk, 14:30, free

AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA MARTIN FRÖST: MUSICAL ROOTS This special programme offers a whirlwind tour through music history, incorporating fragments of works by Hildegard von Bingen, Telemann, Piazzolla, Georgs Pel cis, Anders Hillborg, Schumann, Bartók and Brahms. The Swedish clarinettist Martin Fröst offers background and explanation (in English). Before the 'roots' collage, the concert opens with Bruckner's Adagio and Janá ek's Suite for String Orchestra. Fri 14 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 gence. Today, it is performed with the soloists Sebastian Catana (baritone) as Francesco Foscari, Roberto de Biasio (tenor) as his son Jacopo, soprano Tamara Wilson, bass Giovanni Battista Parodi, tenor Andrew Owens, soprano Aylin Sezer and tenor Mark Omvlee. Sat 17 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 13:30, €52-€59 RIETVELD ENSEMBLE The ensemble performs quintets for clarinet and string quartet by Robert Fuchs and Arthur Bliss. Sat 17 Sep, English Reformed Church, 13:00, free

FANCY FIDDLERS This string ensemble consists of young talents between 6 and 19 years old. Today they come to Splendor for a small-scale Sunday morning concert. Sun 18 Sep, Splendor, 11:00, €10 ENSEMBLE IL POMO D'ORO – HÄNDEL'S LOVE DUETS AND ARIAS The ensemble teams up with renowned soloists: soprano Karina Gauvin and counter-tenor Maarten Engeltjes. They perform arias and duets from Händel's operas 'Faramondo', 'Rodelinda', 'Solomon' and 'Saul'. Sun 18 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35-€79.50 THE HAGUE PHILHARMONIC & ALEXANDER LONQUICH The Hague Philharmonic (known in Dutch as the Residentie Orkest) is joined by pianist Alexander Lonquich for a performance of Schumann's piano concerto, which is renowned for its delicate interweaving of orchestra and piano parts. Sun 18 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26 MARC PANTUS – SCHWANENGESANG The bass-baritone performs Schwanengesang, the collection of Schubert's last songs, as well as 'Winterabend' and 'Fantasie in F'. Sun 18 Sep, De Waalse Kerk, 15:00, €25

NETHERLANDS SATIE.150 - A CELEBRATION PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA IN THE SHAPE OF AN & VERONIKA EBERLE UMBRELLA CAMENAE COLLECTIVE – The orchestra and violinist VePianist Joana Gama celebrates GARDEN OF MUSIC ronika Eberle play Beethoven's the 150th anniversary of the Violin Concerto and Mendelsbirth of Erik Satie with a piano The Camenae Collective persohn's Scottish Symphony. recital in which the work of the forms DvoÐák's expressive Sat 17 & Mon 19 Sep, Royal French composer is interspersed 'Cypresses' string quartet, Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23with that of other composers, Puccini’s sublime Crisantemi €54 including John Cage, Carlos and Haydn’s lyrical 'Sunrise' Marecos, Arvo Pärt, John Adquartet. In the run-up to the MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL ams and Alexander Scriabin. All concert, the quartet is calling CONCERTGEBOUW composers shared a desire for on the audience to send them ORCHESTRA – SCHUBERT making music less formal, with photos to accompany the piecOCTET quite different results. es; a selection will be displayed Opening the new season at Sat 17 Sep, English Reformed during the concert. Noorderkerk, this concert sees Church, 20:15, €23 Wed 21 Sep, Splendor, 20:30, members of the Royal Con€17 THE SOURCES OF DAVID certgebouw Orchestra perform KWEKSILBER HEMONY ENSEMBLE – Schubert's Octet – scored for ICONOCLASM three wind and five string inThis evening is dedicated to struments – and other works. clarinetist David Kweksilber and The ensemble performs Sat 17 Sep, Noorderkerk, 14:00, is intended to show, quite liter- works that played a role in the €16 ally, where his music is coming Netherlands' own iconoclasm from, featuring a performance of 450 years ago, when the NETHERLANDS RADIO PHIL- by his father Ludwig Olshansky protestant North brought an HARMONIC & GROOT OMon piano and a film recording of end to the rich, multi-harmoROEPKOOR – I DUE FOSCARI his mother Marianne Kweksilnious music of the Catholic Verdi's tragic opera about a ber singing four songs by Alban church. Influences and eleVenetian doge that has to ban Berg accompanied by Reinbert ments of this music tradition his son from the city is based on de Leeuw on piano before giving remained. The programme a work by Lord Byron and has the stage to the man himself for includes psalm settings and recently been enjoying a resurclarinet improvisations. other works by Antoine de

PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL Févin and Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck. Thur 22 Sep, English Reformed Church, 20:15, €19.50 ORGAN AND BRASS ENSEMBLE – FILM MUSIC Organist Jeroen Koopman leads a brass ensemble from the Conservatorium van Amsterdam – the city's music academy – in a performance of film scores and tunes. Fri 23 Sep, Orgelpark, 13:15, €12.50 TOONKUNSTKOOR AMSTERDAM & HET BALLETTORKEST – MOZART REQUIEM The resident orchestra of the Dutch National Ballet swaps dancers for singers as it teams up with the Toonkunstkoor for a performance of Mozart's heart-rending and powerful requiem. The grand Dominicus Church provides the suitably stunning backdrop. Fri 23 Sep, Dominicuskerk, 20:30, €28

by Schubert, including the famous Trout Quintet. Wed 28 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31

the most famous works of the entire classical canon. Fri 7 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37

HAGEN QUARTET – HAYDN The Austrian quartet stays true to its roots by performing works by its compatriot Haydn, including 'Kaiser' – today better known as the German anthem, but originally written for the Austrian emperor Franz. Thur 29 Sep & Sat 1 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35-€56

CAPELLA AMSTERDAM & ORCHESTRA OF THE 18TH CENTURY – MISSA SOLEMNIS Performing Beethoven's famous mass. Tue 11 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €27-€72

BRODSKY QUARTET With a performance of string quartets nos. 4 and 8, the British quartet presents its new album with all of Shostakovich's string quartets, which was recorded during a three-day concert series in

LIZA FERSCHTMAN, ANDRÉ MORSCH & JULIUS DRAKE Violinist Ferschtman, baritone André Morsch and pianist Julius Drake perform music from the French repertoire, including works by Ravel, Fauré, Poulenc and Debussy. Wed 12 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €34

Choice classical

BORIS GILTBURG – ETUDES The much-lauded pianist performs etudes by Scriabin, Liszt and Rachmaninov. Despite the form being intended for training and practice, the etudes by these three composers contain a wealth of revolutionary ideas and new piano techniques. Fri 23 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 NIEUW AMSTERDAMS KINDERKOOR The children's choir from Amsterdam performs a-cappella versions of classical works, accompanied by choreographies and video work. Sat 24 Sep, Noorderkerk, 14:00, €16 LUNA CHAMBER CHOIR The chamber choir sings Josef Rheinberger's 'Cantus Missae', Thomas Tallis' 'Spem in Alium' and Alec Roth's 'Earthrise'. Sun 25 Sep, Oosterkerk, 12:00, free BASTIAAN NEVEN & HEATHER WARE: BACH WITH A DIFFERENCE Cellist Bastiaan Neven and dancer Heather Ware join forces to explore the combination of Bach's music with modern dance. Sun 25 Sep, NedPho-Koepel, 15:00, €7.50

COLIN STETSON: SORROW Innovative saxophonist Colin Stetson reinterprets Henryk Górecki's Third Symphony, also known as the 'Symphony of Sorrowful Songs', with a 10-strong ensemble that includes Sarah Neufeld of Arcade Fire and Bell Orchestre, Greg Fox and Shahzad Ismaily of Marc Ribot's Ceramic Dog. The concert is part of the The Rest is Noise series, bridging the experimental indie and electronic scenes with purer classical audiences. Fri 9 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:30, €34 Muziekgebouw in March. Sun 2 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €21 JORGE LUIS PRATS – IBERIA The charismatic and popular pianist performs Isaac Albéniz' Iberia suite in its entirety. Sun 2 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €43.50/€54

CHAMBER MUSIC IN DE HOOP – MARCEL WORMS The pianist performs works by Federico Mompou, Eric Satie, Arvo Pärt and Peteris Vasks – all composers that tried to find something new. Sun 25 Sep, De Hoop, 15:00, €14

JACOB OLIE TRIO The new trio of experienced musicians performs piano trios by Mendelssohn and Arno Babadjanian at this free lunch-time concert. Thur 6 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 12:30, free

ROSANNE PHILIPPENS & FRIENDS: I LOVE SCHUBERT The violinist and an ensemble perform various works

NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY – FOUR SEASONS The orchestra performs what is the best known work by Vivaldi – and, indeed, one of

ASKO|SCHÖNBERG: ODE TO KURTÁG The ensemble is joined by pianist Tamara Stefanovich and cellist Jean-Guihen Queyraspay. Together, they pay homage to the poetic beauty of the music by the Hungarian composer György Kurtág. Works by Webern and Schönberg are also on the programme. Thur 13 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €34 PIERRE-LAURENT AIMARD The French master pianist dedicates this concert to pointing out a significant commonality between the composers György Kurtág, Robert Schumann and Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck: they all used the piano for personal thoughts and notes, or even as a diary.

Fri 15 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 AN EVENING WITH YANN TIERSEN The multi-instrumental and multi-genre Frenchman comes to Amsterdam. Sat 15 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00/23:00, €33.50€40.50 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA The orchestra's new conductor Daniele Gatti seeks to demonstrate his thesis of the close relationship between Wagner, Mahler and Alban Berg. Thur 20 & Fri 21 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €25€80 NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY: VERGNÜGTE RUH The orchestra performs four much-loved Bach cantatas, including 'Am Abend aber desselbigen Sabbats' and 'Vergnügte Ruh, beliebte Seelenlust'. The soloists are Miriam Feuersinger (soprano), Alex Potter (alto), Thomas Hobbs (tenor) and Christian Immler (bass). Fri 21 & Sat 22 Oct, Waalse Kerk, 20:15/14:30, price tba CELLO BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM The world’s biggest cello festival returns to the city, featuring an impressive line-up of international soloists, ensembles and orchestras performing everything from classical and contemporary music to pop, jazz, world and rock. Outside of the main concerts there are daily sessions plus workshops for students. 20-29 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.cellobiennale.nl NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA With cellist Mario Brunello, the orchestra performs Brahms' Double Concerto and Beethoven's Second Symphony. The evening kicks off with the overture from Mozart's Don Giovanni. Sat 22 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23-€54 LES GOÛTS RÉUNIS This concert is part of a series organised by The Royal Wind Music, a Dutch recorder consort. An international ensemble of 13 young recorder players share their passion for renaissance music. Sun 23 Oct, Amstelkerk, 16:00, price tba NEDERLANDS CONCERT CHOIR – CARMINA BURANA The choir sings Orff 's masterpiece. Sun 23 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30/€35 ORCHESTRA OF THE 18TH CENTURY As part of the Cello Biennale, the orchestra performs Haydn's popular Cello Concerto and the equally well-loved Concerto for Violin and Cello by Brahms, plus works by Étienne-Nicolas

Méhul and Robert Volkmann. Sun 23 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €38 IZHAR ELIAS The classical guitarist gives an afternoon concert with works by Rossini, Francisco Tárrega, Villa-Lobos and others. Sun 23 Oct, Oosterkerk, 12:00, free ANNA LUCIA RICHTER The soprano performs songs by Britten, Schumann and Brahms. Tue 25 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €26-€41 THE 12 CELLISTS OF THE BERLIN PHILHARMONIC Who better to play the last festival day of the Cello Biennale then these elite musicians? The cellists perform music by Bach, Poulenc, Sebastian Currier, Piazzolla, Horacio Salgan and a new work by the poppy Dutch composer Chiel Meijering. Sat 29 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 16:30, €34 DUO SILENCIO: SONGS WITHOUT WORDS As part of the Chamber Music in De Hoop series, saxophonist Christiaan van der Weij and pianist Natalja Korobanjko perform lyrical duos by Mendelssohn, Grieg, César Franck and Rachmaninov. De Hoop in Diemen is Amsterdam's last remaining rural clandestine church. Sun 30 Oct, De Hoop, 15:00, €14 ADDRESSES Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 www.bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 www.bitterzoet.com De Duif Prinsengracht 756 www.deduif.net Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 https://carre.nl Sugarfactory Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.suga rfactory.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y www.ziggodome.nl

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT WWW.AMSTERDAMART.COM.

1. MYSTIQUE NARRATIVES II

Paolo Ventura takes you on a trip to a magical and mysterious world, created in his studio with the simplest materials. His works, most of them inspired by World War II stories, irradiate an atmosphere of melancholy and isolation.

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10 SEP – 29 OCT Flatland Gallery Lijnbaansgracht 312-314

2. COMPLEX COMPUTATIONAL COMPOSITIONS

Rafaël Rozendaal is known for his interactive and boldly coloured artworks in the shape of websites, but he has recently been producing physical works as well. His sculptures and tapestries, containing vibrant geometric designs, are well worth a trip to Upstream Gallery in the month of September. 3 SEP – 8 OCT Upstream Gallery Kloveniersburgwal 95

3. LOST CODES

Lost Codes focuses on the process of migration and the effect it has on people’s sense of belonging. The exhibition features a performance installation with live video filming, which shows the spectator that a new form of nationality is emerging: one that is no longer tied to places, but to objects and memories instead. 3 SEP – 15 OCT Lumen Travo Lijnbaansgracht 314

4. THE RACQUET CLUB

Palm Springs, a desert city once developed as a fancy getaway for LA’s upper class and Hollywood movie stars, functions as the scenic backdrop for Caroline Walker’s new paintings. The canvasses are filled with lush gardens, turquoise pools and luxurious architectural structures, embodying the artificial sense of ‘the good life’ Palm Springs is associated with. 2 SEP – 9 OCT Grimm Frans Halsstraat 26

5. DAYS UNDRESSED

Femmy Otten uses historical art references and classical working methods to create her paintings and sculptures. For her new exhibition, she transforms the gallery space into a mesmerizing installation, where the sea and all its associations take central stage. 3 SEP – 5 NOV Galerie Fons Welters Bloemstraat 140

FILM FAVOURITES GO DISNEY

Always wanted to see The Lion King, Monsters, Inc. and Toy Story on the big screen? Now’s your chance! This month, Pathé Arena, Tuschinski and De Munt are screening four of Disney’s biggest classics (Frozen makes four). The screenings will be in both the original and the Dutch version, so be sure to double-check.

September Pathé Arena, Tuschinski & De Munt www.pathe.nl/disneyweken

GO CLASSIC

high on the roof of the Vrije Universiteit with interesting talks and screenings of recent world cinema film fare (tickets are 12 euros, or 19,50 with a meal), or relax at the beach at Sloterplas for free screenings of last year’s art house classics like Room, Carol and While We’re Young. Westbeach Film Festival: September 8 – 18, Bastion at Sloterplas On the Roof Film Festival: September 6 – 9, VU www.vu.nl/ontheroof

INTERNATIONAL SPORT FILM FESTIVAL

Longing for some non-animated golden oldies? Both EYE and Rialto regularly screen real Hollywood masterpieces. This September, look out for Buster Keaton’s The General, Roman Polanski’s classic Chinatown, Hitchcock’s The 39 Steps and timeless musical West Side Story.

If there’s room in Amsterdam for a Surf Film Festival, surely there must be room for an International Sport Film Festival, which will screen the best sport films of the last year. This second edition will also offer tributes to Muhammed Ali and Johan Cruyff.

www.eyefilm.nl www.rialtofilm.nl

23 & 24 September Het Ketelhuis

CAPTAIN FANTASTIC

CAMERA JAPAN

Actor-turned-director Matt Ross (known for his roles in the first American Horror Story, Sillicon Valley and Big Love) has clearly found his calling. Captain Fantastic stars Viggo Mortensen as papa-bear Ben, who, with his five children, ventures out of the woods and into the big, bad corporate world for their mother’s funeral. Directed by: Matt Ross Release: September 1

THE BEATLES: EIGHT DAYS A WEEK

The band you know, the story you don’t. Produced in cooperation with Paul, Ringo,Yoko Ono and Olivia Harrison, director Ron Howard dives into the touring years of one of the world’s greatest bands, from their performance in The Cavern Club in Liverpool in 1962 to their final concert in San Francisco in 1966. Directed by: Ron Howard Release: September 15

WESTBEACH & ON THE ROOF

Summer may be over, but open-air cinema definitely isn’t! This September, get

We’re definitely getting spoiled these two months with awesome film festivals in Amsterdam. Make sure to check out the eleventh edition of Camera Japan at Filmhuis Kriterion, the biggest Japanese cultural festival in the Benelux. Special focus will be on Japanese comedies (old and new). Or you can go to Kurosawa Kiyoshi’s latest feature Creepy, where Kurosawa – finally - gets back to his unsettling J-horror roots. 14–16 October, Kriterion www.camerajapan.nl

KLIK!

Yes, it’s that time again! Get ready for the ninth edition of KLIK!, six days of animation awesomeness in Amsterdam, with feature films, animated shorts from all over the world, talks, installations, workshops, master classes and a spectacular closing party. This year’s main theme will be ‘Nature and Landscapes’, about the relationship between man and his surroundings. There’s also a special program for kids, on October 30th. October 25-30 EYE Film Museum www.klik.amsterdaml

sep & oct 2016

CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING PLEINVREES FESTIVAL A distinctively hedonistic festival with the biggest names in minimal, euphoric and mostly German techno: Fritz Kalkbrenner, Gui Boratto (live), Extrawelt (live), Dominik Eulberg, Einmusik (live), Adana Twins, Alle Farben and – oddly – Ten Walls, the Lithuanian electronic artist who hit the news last year with his anti-gay statements. Apparently Pleinvrees thinks he deserves a second chance. Sat 3 Sep, NDSM, 12:00, €45 PAINT Excellent local jocks Lion Kojo, Carista and Appiah play a mix of beats, hiphop and future R&B. Fri 9 Sep, Canvas, 23:00, €10 CHICAGO LEGENDS: MARSHALL JEFFERSON Despite Amsterdam being one of the hotspots of the electronic music scene, we don’t get to see all legendary people on a regular basis. An appearance by Chicago house pioneer Marshall Jefferson or the ‘Father of House Music’ is a very rare phenomenon and we’re excited about this possibility to see the 57 year old (!) DJ play his favourite tunes. Sat 10 Sep, Canvas, 23:00, €15

Sascha Ring aka Apparat plus Gernot Bronsert and Sebastian Szary (Modeselektor) are now playing HMH; they’re poppy yes, but not at a Katy Perry level, right? Anyway, the sound system is excellent so this should be a wicked experience for hard core fans of the German trio. Sat 1 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €35 25 YEARS OF QUAZAR The closest the Netherlands ever came to a nineties electronic super group in the vein of The Chemical Brothers is Quazar. Main man Gert van Veen has always stayed on the scene working for various organisations including Club Risk, Welcome to the Future and Studio 80 so this anniversary celebration doesn’t come as a real surprise. Quazar themselves will perform a live set; quite exciting as decades old classics such as Seven Stars, Last Train to Paradise and Break Away have retained their charm. Sat 1 Oct, Paradiso, 23:0005:00, €22.50 DISCO TOTAL A gorgeous night of disco in a scruffy, squad-like setting. This is the antithesis of Studio 54 and that’s no reason to complain; the lack of celebrities allows for higher levels of concentration on the dance floor. Sat 1 Oct, OT301, 23:00-03:00, €10

is a master of everything: from the most wonky house to the heaviest of hiphop. Be aware this may be a short set as six (!) other DJs - including Mr V and Man Without a Clue - are set to spin. Wed 19 Oct, Club ABE, 23:0004:00, €15

else while ex Underground Resistance member Robert Hood is likely to take a second position. Thu 20 Oct, Warehouse Elementenstraat, 22:00, €32.50 TRESOR 25 YEARS Once the go to German label,

Choice clubbing

SURGEON Anthony Child is a yoga teacher, but you wouldn’t be able to tell when you listen to his deep, distorted kick-drum-loaden live or DJ sets. Various performances at Dekmantel Festival have proven to be mindblowing and punishing, so expectations are high. Fans of hard-hitting techno, don’t miss this. Also spinning are JP Enfant, Deniro and Regis. Sat 17 Sep, De Marktkantine, 23:00-03:00, €15

CLUB LEDERHOSEN FASHION RAVE We’re not sure what types fashion HOTEL TROPIQUE the organization had in mind Philou Louzolo takes your idea of with this title but based on historical evidence we expect Freek African music away from the sevFabricius, one of the three DJs to enties with loads of semi acoustic/ semi electronic bangers from all wear the brightest rave wear on corners of the contintent. the market (back in the 90s that Fri 7 Oct, Canvas, 23:00, €15 is). We’ve even heard rumours him and his mates run a webshop NOVEL specialised in rave pants… Expect Jamie Tiller and Raphael Top a mix of IDM, electro, rave and Secret play a back to back set. acid house. Expect tunes to be on the washed Fri 16 Sep, OT301, 23:00out, psychedelic and boogie side 03:00, €10 VALTIFEST: ON FIRE! LET’S of the musical spectrum. Support BAM BAM OLD SCHOOL GET INTIMATE comes from Anel. JUNGLE EDITION Sat 8 Oct, Canvas, 23:00, €15 The most unserious festival Break beat hero from the mid on the scene, here music OUWE STIJL IS BOTERGEIL 1990s Jumping Jack Frost out of is mostly treated as a joke. London, veteran local jocks Chaos Usually the home of the hip and Dressing up like a madman arty, RADION makes an excep& L Dopa plus Axel Savage and or -woman is a total must. Nymfo are set to get you moving tion for this 10-hour long celebraTongue in cheek DJ sets are tion of the hardest ever style in to some of the most dark and bass electronic dance music: gabber. heavy dance music ever to come expected from: electroclash Ouwe Stijl is Botergeil or ‘Old out of Britain: jungle. hero Vitalic, UK garage vetStyle is Super Horny’ celebrates Fri 23 Sep, Melkweg, 23:00eran Artful Dodger, Amerithe shockingly aggressive genre. 05:00, €15 can house jocks Terry Hunter This time with Apac, Faniac, & Mike Dunn, former Hi-Tech L’AMOUR TOUJOURS Frantic Freak, Ruffneck, The IrritSoul Movement frontman ainer and many more DJ-ing. The locally very popular Arjuna Dimitri, Rauw CEO Joost Sat 15 Oct, RADION, 22:00Schiks artist plays a live set of his 08:00, €15 warm and melodic dance floor van Bellen, amazing Scottish techno. For the true hedonists master of filter house DJ Q AWAKENINGS X LEN FAKI among us. plus Melon and others. PRESENT FIGURE NACHT Sat 24 Sep, Canvas, 23:00Sat 3 Sep, NDSM, 12:00, €45 The line up of the first Awaken04:00, €10 ings edition of ADE 2016 has AWAKENINGS X ADAM BOB SINCLAR been curated by Len Faki. Besides One of the slickest DJ/produc- the man himself, tonight features BEYER PRESENT DRUMCODE ers on the scene, Parisian Bob a primetime set by Yorkshire hard The Swedish techno label brings hitter Blawan, whose evil 2012 Alan Fitzpatrick, Ida Engberg, Sinclar has put out a wide variclassic ‘Why They Hide Their Dense & Pika (live) and – of ety of house tunes, ranging from Bodies Under My Garage’ still course – label head honcho Adam very leftfield to rather commerBeyer. Bangin’. cial. Catch this true don of house resonates in our head. Friendlier music play a rare Amsterdam set. sounds come on later with a live Thu 20 Oct, Gashouder, 22:00set by Detroit brothers Octave 08:00, €44.50 Fri 30 Sep, Escape, 23:00One. 05:00, €25 HYTE ADE Wed 19 Oct, Gashouder, 22:00MODERAT 08:00, €29.50 Hyte specialises in full on techno and that’s exactly what’s happenHow did this happen? It’s hard CLUELESS SESSIONS ing tonight. Rotterdam’s Speedy J to believe electronic super group Headliner Kenny ‘Dope’ Gonzales may smash it harder than anyone Moderat, a combined effort of

BLOC & BANLIEUE PRESENT MINIMAL WAVE One of our absolute ADE favourites of 2016 comes from local clubbing organisation Banlieue, who join hands with the legendary East London Bloc crew. Headlining are Londoner Steven Julien, aka Funkineven, joined by New Jersey’s Joey Anderson with spaced-out Detroit-informed house music, and Veronica Vasicka, who has made the electronic side of new wave hugely popular, joined by Das Ding. Fri 21 Oct, RADION, 23:00, €22.50 Tresor played a major role in spreading Detroit techno over the globe. DJ-ing tonight are Sterac (Steve Rachmad), VSC, Zadig while live PAs come from O/V/R and TR-101. Thu 20 Oct, Melkweg, 23:0007:00, €19 AWAKENINGS X JORIS VOORN An edition to catch some breath, as curator Joris Voorn has invited some of the more mellow names on the techno scene including

Kölsch, Appolonia, Andhim and Truncate. Fri 21 Oct, Gashouder, 22:0008:00, €44.50 SISTER MIDNIGHT An absolute killer line up with Roman Flügel (Germany) and Daniel Avery (UK), two top notch names in the underground club scene playing a back to back set. Also playing are Ata and Reza Athar. Fri 21 Oktober, Canvas, 23:00, €15 AWAKENINGS X JOSEPH CAPRIATI Again, an interesting choice for Awakenings as Joseph Capriati –who’s filling the last slot of the night himself – invited some quite sophisticated people, most notably DJ Tennis, a versatile Italian-American with a preference for new wave, electro and 125 BPM underground house. That said, those who want a rocking Sat night will just have to wait a little longer until 4am when party boy of respectable age Sven Väth, takes place behind the decks. Sat 22 Oct, Gashouder, 22:0008:00, €44.50 RESIDENT ADVISOR ADE The ADE party by go-to EDM blog throws a party for fans of experimental house and techno with British wonder boy Actress mixing up electronic abstractness with soul classics by the likes of Tina Turner, Amsterdam’s Palmbomen playing a blend of 80s hiphop, italo disco and synthpop and Boston’s Beautiful Swimmers. Sat 22 Oct, RADION, 22:0006:00, €22.50 TICKET TO THE TROPICS: ENCHUFADA LABEL NIGHT All the leaves are brown… Who wants to hear that in Oct? Why not fight autumn depression by having a boogie to some of the best beats in tropical bass music? Tonight’s unusual line-up includes Dengue Dengue Dengue from Lima, Peru, South Africa’s Batuk, Buraka Som Sistema frontman Branko and Amsterdam’s most Caribbean sounding electronic party group Kuenta I Tambu. This one’s going to be sweaty… Sat 22 Oct, Tolhuistuin, 22:0005:00, €15 AWAKENINGS CLOSING PARTY An early start today and possibly an early finish tonight for many as it’s been a heavy week. A nice and varied line-up including Berghain’s most famous jock Marcel Dettmann, Hotflush label boss Scuba, Spain’s main techno guy Oscar Mulero and East London’s veteran banging techno selector Ben Sims. Sun 23 Oct, Gashouder, 18:0006:00, €39.50 HOUSE RULES Jack your body at this night dedicated to the spirit of smooth house music. Various DJs. Fri 28 Oct, Escape, 23:0005:00, €16 BRAINWASH Various local DJs spin house tunes. Sat 29 Oct, Escape, 23:0005:00, €16

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS

ONE-OFF EVENTS

GAY MOVIE NIGHT VALTIFEST Every first Wednesday of the The wild child of Amsterdam's month Pathé de Munt shows a summer festival programme respecial gay classic movie. The turns with a heavyweight line-up reception - with a welcome of DJs playing a range of elecdrink - usually starts at 20:30, tronic music as eclectic as the the movie itself starts at dress code. This time the theme 21:00. Check the Pathe webis ‘Valtifest on Fire’, so dig deep site for which movie is on and into your imagination before you exact starting time. burn up the dancefloor. www.pathe.nl/event/gaynight 3 Sep, NDSM Wharf, www.valtifest.nl GARBO FOR WOMEN AMSTERDAM LEATHER A special women-only dance PRIDE party every third Saturday of the month. Amsterdam Leather Pride is Club Lite, www.garboforwomback with new organizers and en.nl a large main party back in the center of Amsterdam. Leather MELLOW MONDAY and fetish men from all over Recharge after your busy Europe come to Amsterdam for weekend with free foot and various parties and events. shoulder massages, free Beside the main party 'Damage', snacks, free detox scrubs, and there are special fetish parties dry and steam saunas. at the leather and cruise bars, Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, like Cuckoo's Nest, Web, Eagle, €19.50, under 26 €10, men Dirty Dicks, Warehouse and in only. cruise Club Church. Thur 27-Mon 31 Oct, various NAKED SWIMMING locations and prices, The Marnixbad pools contain www.leatherpride.nl much less chlorine than most AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your The definitive gateway to the sensitive bits. international electronic music Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15, scene and five days of extraorvarious prices. dinary parties, the ADE is the world's biggest club festival and SAUNA NZ Europe's leading electronic muEvery Tuesday is "No Towel sic conference. Night" (totally naked) at Sau19-23 Oct, various locations, na NZ. You will get a normal www.amsterdam-dance-event. towel to dry yourself off and nl a small towel to sit on and to ADDRESSES pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from Amstel Fifty Four 18:00 till 00:00. Amstel 54 Every Tue, Sauna NZ, www.amstelfiftyfour.nl www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 (Z)ONDERBROEK www.clubchurch.nl Guys: Every Friday night and Club NYX every first Saturday of the Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 month, drop all your pretencwww.clubnyx.nl es and dance without pants at Engel van Amsterdam Club Church in Amsterdam. Zeedijk 21 The dress code is strictly enwww.engelamsterdam.nl forced: briefs and jocks are Hotel Arena welcome; swimming trunks, 's-Gravesandestraat 5 boxers, sports shorts or going www.hotelarena.nl commando are also permitted. Marnixbad Board shorts, Bermudas or Marnixplein 1 other streetwear prohibited. www.hetmarnix.nl Every Fri night & first Sat Paradiso of the month, Club Church, Weteringschans 6-8 22:00-05:00, €10. www.paradiso.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 advert www.pathe.nl Prik Spuistraat 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20 www.queenshead.nl Saarein Elandsstraat 119-HS www.saarein2.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 15, 22 SEP www.warehouseamsterdam.com

THE GLASS MENAGERIE

SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

SPORTS thousands of sporting enthusiasts but also numerous live performances to urge on the parFRIDAY NIGHT SKATE ticipants and keep the crowds entertained. More than just a Get your skates on for the weekly solitary 10-mile race, the Dam Friday Night Skate, an institutot Dam encompasses walking tion in Amsterdam! Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating and cycling, as well as a 5-mile night run on 17 September. routes take in all areas of the 17 & 18 Sep, Amsterdam & Zancity, allowing you to skate in daam, www.damloop.nl places where you wouldn’t on your own. BEATS, BALLS & BUSINESS every Friday, Vondelpark PaThis autumn you can work on vilion, www.fridaynightskate. your golf skills while also workcom ing your business acumen. This AJAX networking event takes place They're Amsterdam's top foot- monthly during summer and autumn, inviting you to participate ball club, known around the in nine holes of golf followed by world for their distinctive red and white shirt and for their leg- an informal networking event. Don't worry if you can't play as acy of Dutch and European victories. The new football season there's also the option of a group lesson for beginners. officially kicked off in August, 21 Sep & 26 Oct, Golfclub Amwith upcoming home matches stelborgh, www.borchland.nl against Vitesse (10 Sep), PEC Zwolle (24 Sep), FC Utrecht (2 SURVIVAL GAMES Oct) and Excelsior (29 Oct). Survive the night in support of Sep-Oct, Amsterdam ArenA, Artsen Zonder Grenzen (Doctors www.ajax.nl Without Borders). Taking place FRIDAY NIGHT RUN in the Amsterdamse Bos, teams will face fitness and mental chalOrganised by the Phanos athletics association every second lenges across the night, as well as a host of challenging surprises. Friday of the month, this free Participants should expect walkgroup running event is open ing, running and cycling to form to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can the core of the fitness activities. 30 Sep, Amsterdamse Bos, join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the www.artsenzondergrenzen.nl standard one-hour run. SLOTERPLASLOOP 9 Sep, 14 Oct, Olympic Stadium, Part of the ‘Rondje Mokum’ www.fridaynightrun.nl series of running events, this SINGLE-RUN 10km race is centred around the Sloterplas in the Nieuw-West Ever ran a mile after a bad district of the city. dating experience? Well the 9 Oct, Sloterplas, www.sloterSingle-Run aims to offer the plasloop.nl opposite: singles line up at the start line, mingle and meet over NETHERLANDS VS. FRANCE a 5 or 10km run, then enjoy a The Dutch national football drink together at the end. The team aim to get over the discourse includes on and off road appointment of missing out on segments, so be prepared for Euro 2016 by qualifying for the adventure. World Cup in 2018. It's never 2 Sep, Amsterdamse Bos, www. easy though, especially with single-run.nl Euro 2016 runners-up France in AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM their qualifying group. 10 Oct, Amsterdam ArenA, The canal cruise boats make way for more than 2,500 brave swimmers (and 500 kids) as the Amsterdam City Swim comes to town. Head out and support the swimmers as they swim the 2,000-metre course to raise money for charity. The start area is the Marine Etablissement. You can also find music and entertainment around the Jonas Daniël Meijerplein. 11 Sep, city centre, www.amsterdamcityswim.nl

EVENTS

www.amsterdamarena.nl AMSTERDAM CITY WALK The Amsterdam City Walk is organised like a marathon, while leaving participants enough time to take in the beauty of the historic city centre and its monuments. Walkers can choose from multiple route lengths, meaning there's a route for just about every fitness type. 15 Oct, Olympic Stadium (then citywide), www.amsterdamcitywalk.nl LES MILLS LIVE Fitness meets rave at this touring international initiative. If you love the energy of a live concert, this event takes it to another level with a festival of fitness. 15 Oct, Ziggo Dome, www.ziggodome.nl BEN BRIL MEMORIAL BOXING GALA The old tradition of a boxing gala in a former circus ring is reinstated at this annual sporting event, named after one of the Netherlands’ most famous preWWII boxers. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the gala, so look out for top fight talent from home and abroad. 17 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, www.carre.nl TCS AMSTERDAM MARATHON When it comes to running events, you could say Amsterdam has a personal best: the TCS Amsterdam Marathon. The event draws elite runners and amateurs from around the world, who’ll all take on a beautiful city route this year. The start and finish at the Olympic Stadium, the passage through the city neighbourhoods, and the stretches along the Amstel and through the Vondelpark are all highlights, of course. 16 Oct, Olympic Stadium (and citywide), www.tcsamsterdammarathon.nl

Highlight sports

GERRIE KNETEMANN CLASSIC This cyclo-tourist trip in honour of Dutch cycling legend Gerrie Knetemann takes place every September and offers a tour for all experiences. The routes of 25, 45, 75, 110 and 160 km all begin and end at the Olympic Stadium in Amsterdam, exploring the beautiful landscape in and around the city. 11 Sep, Olympic Stadium, www.gerrieknetemannclassic.nl DAM TOT DAMLOOP The Dam tot Dam Weekend sprints into town every September, bringing with it not only

AMSTERDAM LATE NIGHT SWIM Celebrating the Amsterdam City Swim's fifth anniversary, this new late-night variant takes place two days prior to the main event, inviting some 100 swimmers to race along 100 metres of the Keizersgracht canal in a time-trial event. All for a great cause, this race also aims to raise cash for ALS research, with the fastest swimmer eventually crowned 'Champion of the Keizersgracht'. 9 Sep, Keizergracht, www.amsterdamcityswim.nl

sep & oct 2016

KIDS & FAMILY VENUES AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows and seven actors in one terrifying experience! Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons.nl. Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18. AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park. Visitor Centre, Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, www.amsterdamsebos.nl. Various times & prices. ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Features quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary. Suitable for children over 10. Prinsengracht 263-267, www.annefrank.org. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50. ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes resting amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl. Open daily 9:0018:00; €20.50, ages 3-9 €17. BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor go-karting track. Minimum age for karting is 8 years old. Helmets and protective clothing are included. There’s also a large playground, bowling alley and restaurant. Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet. com. Open Mon-Fri 13:0023:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-23:00; various packages available. COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio. Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, www.cobra-museum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6; Children’s Studio Sun 11:0014:00; free. HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhibitions and a café. Plantage Middenlaan 2A, www.dehortus.nl. Open Mon-Sat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50. HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated north of

Amsterdam, between Zaanstad and Purmerend. You can rent canoes, row or pedal boats, and sailboats. www.hettwiske.nl. KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located in the Vondelpark. Children (ages 5 to 12) do everything to help run the restaurant. Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkookkafe.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:00; various prices. DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam. Dijksgracht 2, www.deklimmuur.nl. Various times & prices. LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling lanes, or pit yourself against the enemy at laser-tag. De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl. Various times & prices. MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM The collection of wax figures includes Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Dam 20, www.madametussauds.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under 5 free. MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL A subtropical swimming complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor pools and wave machines. Other amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant. De Mirandalaan 9, www.mirandabad.nl. Various times & prices. PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s waters make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages. Ms van Riemsdijkweg www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Various times & prices. HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 9:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under 5 free. SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to science and technology. Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under 4 free. TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR The Tropenmuseum is renowned for its Junior building's interactive exhibitions introducing children to new cultures in a playful way. Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Mondays during public & school holidays 10:00-

17:00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under 4 free. TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000m2 indoor playground. Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free.

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Highlight ARTIS

VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior wing shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime. Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.verzetsmuseum. org. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under 7 free. WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs. Westerpark, www.woestewesten. nl. Playground supervisor is present Mon & Tue 12:0018:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00.

EVENTS I AM ART: DUTCH MASTERS The new ‘IamArt’ exhibition at one of Amsterdam’s most fun and interactive attractions allows you to literally step inside the masterpieces of Dutch Masters. permanent, Madame Tussauds, www.madametussauds.com/Amsterdam SUNDAY MARKET Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares and delicious food & drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There is always some form of entertainment or crafty workshop on and plenty of kids clothing and toy stalls to browse through. 4 Sep & 2 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket.nl KERMIS (FUNFAIR) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed great fun at any age. 23 Sep-2 Oct, Mercatorplein / 5-9 Oct, Javaplantsoen / 7-16 Oct, Buiksloot / 12-23 Oct, Dam Square / 14-23 Oct, Anton de Komplein ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate the techniques. permanent, NEMO Science Museum, www.e-nemo.nl NEIGHBOURFOOD MARKET Follow your nose and discover

FAMILY TOUR: MATING AND BIRTH ARTIS is expecting a baby elephant: Asian elephant Thong Tai is pregnant. So how difficult is it for a female elephant to get pregnant? And how does a male elephant know when a female is fertile? Discover more about fertilisation, pregnancy and delivery during the mating and birth tour. Sat 15-Sun 23 Oct at 13:45, starting point: restaurant De Twee Cheetahs DRAWING AT ARTIS Come and draw at ARTIS, inspired by all of nature great and small. Drawing instructors will be on hand to offer tips and tricks. Sat 15-Sun 23 Oct between 11:30 and 12:30, starting point: the elephant enclosure No reservations required. ARTIS is open daily. Tickets are €17 for children aged 3 to 9 and €20.50 for adults. some of the tastiest food and delicious drinks in Amsterdam, with the NeighbourFood Market stopping off at the Westergasfabriek on every third Sunday of the month. 18 Sep & 16 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.neighbourfood.nl VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Steeped in musical and theatrical history, every weekend in summer Amsterdam’s famous Vondelpark presents a programme packed with dance, cabaret, jazz, children's theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. until Sun 11 Sep, Vondelpark Open Air Theatre, www.openluchttheater.nl NOORDERPARKFESTIVAL Amsterdam Noord unites a host of cultural institutions from the neighbourhood with a fun programme blending old-fashioned funfair, a street theatre event and a music festival. 4 Sep, Noorderpark (and other locations in Noord), www.amsterdam.nl/noorderparkfestival MAGIC CIRCUS The Magic Circus is one of the best-known circus groups in Amsterdam. 9-14 Sep, Joris Ivensplein / 16-18 Sep, Levantplein / 20-22 Sep, Amstelkerk, www.magic-circus.nl

CINEKID This annual film television and new media festival for children is attended by more than 50,000 kids and (international) guests every year. Alongside film, documentaries, cartoons, television productions and cross-media productions, there's also a large number of interactive installations and workshops, so fear not: no one will turn into a couch potato here! 15-21 Oct, various locations, www.cinekid.nl AUTUMN HOLIDAYS IN NEMO Check out the ongoing exhibitions, such as 'Energetica', get super scientific in the Lab, or have your mind blown during one of the frequent 'Chair Reaction' science talks. 15-30 Oct, NEMO Science Museum, www.nemosciencemuseum.nl KLIK! AMSTERDAM ANIMATION FESTIVAL While this renowned animation film festival has made a name for itself by appealing to big kids (AKA, adults), younger audiences are never forgotten with loads of special screenings, workshops and activities for kids. 25-30 Oct, EYE Filmmuseum, www.klikamsterdam.nl

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AMSTERDAM BEACH LINE 80 The easiest way to the Bubbling Beach

Take a seaside stroll or shop till you drop. Bus line 80, is the easiest and most

comfortable way to the

Beach of Zandvoort aan Zee. The Amsterdam Beach Line (line 80) departs every 15 minutes from the

Elandsgracht in Amsterdam. More information? connexxion.nl

vvvzandvoort.nl

haarlemmarketing.nl

CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond amsterdam

‘THE WOODS CALL TO US WITH A HUNDRED VOICES, BUT THE SEA HAS ONE ONLY — A MIGHTY VOICE THAT DROWNS OUR SOULS IN ITS MAJESTIC MUSIC. THE WOODS ARE HUMAN, BUT THE SEA IS OF THE COMPANY OF THE ARCHANGELS.’ AUTHOR L.M. MONTGOMERY, ANNE'S HOUSE OF DREAMS

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

INTO THE WOODS Get lost in a world where creative dreams come true. Two days spent in a beech forest, where inspiration doesn’t stop at the energetic lineup – artists are invited to submit their projects, which, if selected, will be financed by the organisation. Amidst the chosen art installations and performances, at six different locales in this beautiful natural setting, dance to the tunes of guest DJs and musicians Mano Le Tough, The Black Madonna, The Advent & Industrialyzer and Max Cooper, and let yourself be enchanted by new talents such as Konstantin Sibold, Cuthead, Jennifer Cardiniswing and – who else – Jungle by Night. Amersfoort Woods 9-10 September www.intothewoodsfestival.nl

GETTING THERE: There are trains from Central Station to Amersfoort several times per hour. Dedicated buses will take you the rest of the way for 5. Travel time: 45 minutes in total.

FILM BY THE SEA Foreign movie lovers will get their fill at the Film by the Sea festival in Vlissingen, where cinema and literature are in the spotlight for nine full days of screenings of well- and lesser-known films, book adaptations and documentaries hailing from all over the world; but also, an immersive programme of book readings, lectures, seminars, awards and competitions – and of course, to make the most of the seaside setting, parties and concerts on the beach. International stars are known to make surprise appearances, so make sure you bring your selfie stick. Film by the Sea, 9-18 September Spuikomweg 1, Vlissingen www.filmbythesea.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Vlissingen from Central Station every 30 minutes, then hop on bus 56 to Badhuisstraat. It’s a five-minute walk to CineCity. Travel time: approximately three hours.

BREDA PHOTO While Amsterdam celebrates photography with the Unseen Fair and Festival, another huge photography event is coming to the Netherlands: Breda Photo’s theme for its seventh edition is ‘You’, exploring man’s contributions to modern society with exhibitions featuring more than 65 renowned international talents. Magnum photographer Carl de Keyzer shows the transition from communist to capitalist Cuba; Morgan Ashcom depicts an isolated community in Ohio; Mathieu Asselin delves deep into Occupy Wall Street; and Antoine Bruy captures self-sustainable living. More than a dozen locations also organise tours, lectures, meet-ups, workshops – including a lot of activities for children and families. 15 September-30 October Various locations in Breda www.bredaphoto.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Breda from Central Station every 30 minutes. Travel time: one hour.

‘I AIN'T AFRAID TO DIE ANYMORE. I'D DONE IT ALREADY.’ CHARACTER HUGH GLASS IN THE REVENANT

‘CINEMA IS A MATTER OF WHAT'S IN THE FRAME AND WHAT'S OUT.’ DIRECTOR MARTIN SCORSESE

DUTCH DESIGN WEEK

OPEN STUDIO DAYS What do television and radio recordings involve, who does what behind the scenes? You can find out during the Open Studio Days. Visit the recording studios, admire the sets and huge collection of props, spot celebrities and even attend live recordings. Professionals will give drone demonstrations and compete in races, and you can also climb the Alticom tower to admire the view over Hilversum (proceeds go to charity) or pretend to be a newscaster for a day. FREE! Media Park Hilversum 3 and 4 September www.openstudiodagen.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Hilversum Media Park from Central Station every 30 minutes. Travel time: approximately 30 minutes.

FORT FESTIVAL The forts of the Defense Line of Amsterdam throw a mean party: during the Fort Festival, not only can you enjoy guided tours of forts that are usually closed to the public, there’s also a slew of fun events that take full advantage of the beautiful historical locations, such as open-air movies, theatrical and musical performances, and wine tastings. Enjoy a dinner buffet while watching Burnt at Linielanding, or have a barbecue during a screening of The Revenant (if you can stomach anything while watching that bear scene…) at Fort Vroek. Fort Holly has a fashion weekend, and costumed Romans will reenact daily life from 2000 years ago at Fort aan den Ham. Plenty of activities for children and grown-ups alike, especially on Open Monument weekend, on 10 and 11 September. 2-11 September Various locations www.forten.nl/activiteiten/fortenfestival

The Netherlands is famous for being a cradle of creativity and home to some of the most innovative designers in the world. At Dutch Design Week these designers and many institutions show off their latest work. Industrial design, concept design, graphic design, textile & fashion, spatial design, food design and design management and trends come together for nine days, with 300 events held in over 60 locations throughout the city – which together attract over 150,000 visitors. One of the highlights of the week are the Dutch Design Awards, and events, lectures, workshops and conferences thrive to make the week as immersive, social and interactive as possible. 22-30 October Various location in Eindhoven www.ddw.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Eindhoven from Central Station every 30 minutes. Travel time: approximately one hour and 20 minutes.

CLOSING

then & now

THEN AND NOW: PALEIS VOOR VOLKSVLIJT

Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé photo Jacob Ollie

AMSTERDAM 1900 A little known fact: Amsterdam used to have its own Crystal Palace. When renowned city planner Samuel Sarpharti visited the Great Exhibition of London in 1851, he was so inspired by the spectacular Hyde Park structure made of cast iron and plate glass that he decided to erect a similar building on the banks of the Amstel. The project was entrusted to architect and engineer Cornelis Outshoorn, who completed the magnificent Fredericksplein building between 1859 and 1864. The original purpose of the Paleis voor Volksvlijt (Palace of Popular Diligence) as an exhibition hall turned out to be unrealistic, but it soon started hosting opera concerts, accompanied by a monumental organ made especially by famous French constructor Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, which today still resides at the Haarlem Philharmony – before finding its calling as an entertainment and luxury shopping centre. The Palace lost some of its lustre and popularity at the end of the 19th century after the advent of the Royal Concertgebouw, and came to a tragic end when it was destroyed in a fire in the night of 17 April 1929. From 14 October Amsterdam City Archives www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

sep & oct 2016

VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

I AMSTERDAM STORE Discover the best of Amsterdam here. Real Amsterdam products and the best tips on everything you want to know about the city. Come and take a look! In the IJ Hall (inside Central Station) Open Mon-Wed 8:00-19:00, Thur-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00) info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/ visitorcentres) I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

SPECIAL OFFER FOR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD HOLDERS! Purchase the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket for a special price of €10. Combine the 24-hour public bus pass with the I amsterdam City Card and make good use of both products! This offer is availabe at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres at Stationsplein and Schiphol Airport, and in the I amsterdam Store.

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region for 24 hours – day and night – by bus, tram and metro. There are many attractive options like Haarlem, a city of remarkable history and culture, Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot, an enchanting castle and garden, or the Zaanse Schans with its windmills and lovely village. Beach lovers should head to Zandvoort or IJmuiden aan Zee. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from the I amsterdam Visitor Centres, the I amsterdam Store or at GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

TJEERD GEERTS, 48, REAL STATE AGENT FROM SPAIN ‘You should really take the Candlelight Tour. You get to the see the canals and discover the city at night directly from the water, and they give you cheese and wine! It’s the best.’

SINI RANTA, 28, STUDENT FROM FINLAND ‘I love the Foam Photography Museum; they have such great exhibitions. I saw the Magnum exhibit about the most iconic news photos, and until 4 September they have an amazing retrospective on Helmut Newton’s work.’

MAHMOUD AAMI SHARAF, 28, PHARMACIST FROM EGYPT ‘I think the best way to discover the city is walking, especially around the canals. Amsterdam is so chill; people are very nice and it’s so rare to find someone who will give you a hard time.’

TOM HOWE, 19, STUDENT FROM DURHAM, WITH HIS FRIENDS ‘Head out to the Vondelpark on sunny days. It’s pretty cool, and so big – and in the summer, they give free concerts and theatre performances at the Vondelparktheatre.’

NYEMBEZI AND SIBONGILE MOYO, 30 AND 20, STUDENTS FROM ZAMBIA ‘It’s difficult to choose what we preferred about Amsterdam because everything is so beautiful and the shopping is awesome! But maybe our favourite spot was Café de Klos, where they serve huge, delicious portions of spare ribs.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Elysia Brenner contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Catalina Iorga, Elisah Jacobs, Joke van der Weij, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Sarah Gehrke), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Odilo Girod/Saltystock

AMERICAN EXPRESSÂ® YOUR CARD FOR AMSTERDAM

Your Card is welcome across Amsterdam

September - October 2016 — Language no problem — operaballet.nl

Dutch National Opera presents

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart — 6 – 27 September

Giacomo Puccini — 10 - 31 October

Dutch National Ballet presents

Masterpieces of Hans van Manen, Rudi van Dantzig & Toer van Schayk — 14 - 25 September

Beautiful ballet classic — 8 October 13 November

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO

DUTCH MASTERS

MANON LESCAUT

LA BAYADÉRE