I amsterdam Magazine autumn 2019 by amsterdam&partners

Eat & shop

What’s on

Afternoon tea Best brewpubs East-side shopping

Unseen Photo Fair Amsterdam Dance Event Fringe Festival

Around town West insider's guide Castles, gardens and more Day trips with kids

Magazine | The Autumn Issue 2019

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Contents 5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Five-star Culture UNCOVER AMSTERDAM’S ICONS

Cultural season in Amsterdam is in full swing, which is why we bring you a comprehensive rundown of Mokum’s cultural icons.

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip this season.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

The perfect spots for afternoon tea, where to find the best brewpubs, and our pick of the chicest shops in town.

35 What’s On YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA

From Amsterdam Dance Event to the Unseen photo fair, there’s always something to see and do in the Dutch capital.

53 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This autumn, head west to discover a world away from the tourists. Prefer east? Follow our Watergraafsmeer walking tour!

65 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Castles & Gardens are the order of the day in the leafy, lovely Gooi & Vecht region. Plus, don’t miss the cultural events in Amstelveen and Zaandam.

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, TURN TO PAGE 78

ou’ve picked the right time to be in Amsterdam. Though always unpredictable, autumn is usually still warm enough to see café terraces filled with people, while you’re also taking advantage of the opening of the cultural season. Come September, the concert halls and theatres present their new programming. As you can read in our cover feature, the arts and culture scene is surprisingly large for a city of 820,000 inhabitants – including a concert hall and its resident For more Concertgebouw Orchestra, information about both counted among the best Amsterdam, in the world. And with world visit our website: iamsterdam.com class theatre. Internationaal Theater Amsterdam (ITA), based in the elegant late-19th century theatre on Leidseplein, is celebrating its 125th anniversary. Starting with a worldwide premiere of Freud, the first ever staging – by ITA’s director Ivo van Hove – of the piece that JeanPaul Sartre wrote for film director John Huston, ITA has a season packed with internationally acclaimed performances – surtitled live in English on Thursdays – such as Medea and La Voix Humaine. If contemporary dance, ballet or opera are your thing, don’t forget to browse the programming of the Dutch National Opera & Ballet in the heart of the city. Highlights include a performance of the world-famous choreography of Romeo and Juliet by the late Rudi van Dantzig, as well as Kunstkamer, a spectacular 60th anniversary performance by Nederlands Dans Theater (NDT). Enjoy your stay, and do visit our website iamsterdam.com for more cultural inspiration. Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

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Autumn 6 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Dutch National Opera

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Budget restraints meant the Concertgebouw didn’t have an organ when it first opened, but in 1890 the now-famous, recently restored, Maarschalkerweerd organ was commissioned.

Five-star Culture As the cultural season kicks off this autumn, Amsterdam celebrates creativity and the arts as it presents a seemingly endless selection of highquality performances and exhibitions.

msterdam’s vibrant offering of concerts, exhibitions and stage productions is the envy of many cities across the globe. Its world-famous theatres, music venues and galleries are rich with history and conjure up stories as interesting as the productions and artworks themselves. The city’s appreciation of culture, both high and low, and its compact size make it easy for artsy residents and visitors to sample multiple shows in one evening, setting it apart from larger cities. This is especially so during September, after the new cultural agenda is launched at De Uitmarkt: a programme-packed festival where Amsterdam’s venues unleash what they have in store for the year ahead.

Art & Design

While Museumplein is home to Amsterdam’s heavy hitters –

the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk Museum – there are a host of smaller galleries that are just as interesting. RIJKSMUSEUM Home to Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’, the Rijksmuseum first opened in 1800 in The Hague before moving to Amsterdam in 1808, though not in the gothic Pierre Cuypers building that we now know and love. It would be 1885 before the museum moved into its current home, which was extensively renovated between 2003 and 2012, and reopened by Queen Beatrix in April 2013. The Rijksmuseum presents an overview of Dutch art from the middle ages onwards with a focus on historical perspectives, as well as showing European and Asian art. When it comes to research, restoration and conservation, the museum

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‘Amsterdam is believed to have more museums per capita than any other city in the world’

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The Stedelijk Museum’s controversial new building houses its ever-changing exhibitions, but when unveiled was dubbed ‘the bathtub’. Loved and loathed in equal measure, it’s a testament to modern architecture’s ability to ignite debate.

Autumn 8 | CULTURAL ICONS

STEDELIJK MUSEUM Showcasing the finest contemporary visual art and design is the Stedelijk’s aim. Through dynamic exhibitions exploring past, current and future themes informed by artist dialogue, the museum is all about enriching people’s lives through art. The current season includes fascinating exhibitions looking at immigrant artists in Paris, with Chagall, Picasso and Mondrian among them, and a tribute to Dutch designer Wim Crouwel — he created compelling graphics for many clients and was the sole designer of the Stedelijk Museum’s visual communications from 1963 to 1985. The Stedelijk embarks on an exciting chapter when new director Rein Wolfs takes the helm this December. Noting the Stedelijk’s revolutionary history, he sees the museum as a place where visitors and artworks interact.

Timothy van Poucke

At just 22, Timothy van Poucke, a young ballet dancer with the Dutch National Opera & Ballet, has already appeared in prestigious productions including The Nutcracker, Swan Lake, and La Dame aux Camélias. After beginning with the Junior Company in 2016, he has swiftly made his way through the ranks from Élève to Corps de ballet and his current position as Coryphée. There's no stopping this talented young star as he continues to strive for a prestigious first soloist position.

takes a leading role as it aims to increase its national and international standing. A case in point is Operation Night Watch, an in-depth and high-tech research project aiming to uncover the history and secrets of Rembrandt’s master work, ‘The Night Watch’.

Stedelijk Museum

Dustin Thierry

Foam curator Hinde Haest thinks Dutch photographer Dustin Thierry is someone to keep your eye on. His interests in personal and social issues are elegantly reflected in his rich black and white portraits and group shots. Preferring to use traditional processes for reasons of time, his aim is for viewers to slow down to take in the nuances in his photographs as they reflect and ponder the images. He has already caught the attention of international players with his work published in The New York Times, Huck and i-D with nominations for several awards, some of which he has won.

Dustin Thierry: Opulence

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Full of contemporary photography and in-depth stories about the image-making process, Unseen Magazine aims to create an open dialogue between photographic art and its international audience.

Contemporary Music

Amsterdam is a haven for music, with more venues than you can poke a drumstick at. And its receptive audiences make it a popular port of call for international bands. AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT (ADE) Over five music-filled days (in 2019, 16-20 October), ADE presents a stellar line-up of the very best electronic music acts in a pumping programme. What started as a modest event in 1995 has grown to a behemoth that sees some 140 venues stage 450+ events by some 2,500 artists for more than 400,000+ visitors. During the day, a number of focused conferences unfold that take an in-depth look at issues surrounding music, such as sustainability, and developments concerning production. Programmer

Jesler Amarins notes that ADE University ‘is a place where the next generation learns from top-notch music professionals’ – an influential conference aimed at young professionals and students who want to work in the music and entertainment industry. The electronic music event has evolved into an opportunity for future industry players to learn from one another, too. PARADISO Paradiso is one of the jewels in the city’s crown. For more than 50 years, the former church has hosted umpteen concerts by leading acts including The Killers, Amy Winehouse and Prince, making it a much-loved and respected venue. Its brand is now so strong that it hosts concerts at other venues in the city including the Tolhuistuin in Amsterdam Noord.

Photography & Film

Amsterdam is home to several galleries presenting photographic work, and myriad film festivals covering every genre.

INSIDER TIP

He believes ‘the culture around us is changing, and the museum must connect with the changing population. I want to make the museum more human and more diverse.’

‘Het HEM is a former munitions factory in an exceptional architectural space where multidisciplinary art programmes unfold by today’s makers and thinkers. Plus, there’s a restaurant, bar and library to ensure an inspiring cultural day out.’ Isabella van Marle (28), curator, Unseen Amsterdam

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Carista

Keep an ear out for Carista, a Dutch DJ whose swinging sets shift between musical genres, and who isn’t afraid to surprise the crowd with her eclectic selections. From electronica through to hip-hop, house and disco, Carista’s brand of electronic beats and grooves ensures the mood is always right. Her knack for playing the right track at the right time is pure genius – little wonder she’s already one of the fastest-rising DJs in Amsterdam. Catch her radio show on Red Light Radio where she shares her take on timeless tunes.

Carista

Achraf Koutet

Achraf Koutet (24) graduated from the Utrecht Theatre School, has appeared in TV series and on stage, and is a recent ITA recruit. His rise to fame has been swift and will see him perform in a number of productions in the coming season, The Homecoming, The Wood, Death in Venice and The Cherry Orchard.

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‘The culture around us is changing, and the Stedelijk Museum must connect with the changing population’

Autumn 10 | CULTURAL ICONS

Verena Blok

Stedelijk curator Karen Archey has her eye on Verena Blok, an up-andcoming Dutch artist based in Amsterdam. Photographically trained, Verena also works with video. Her recent work Robota, a political piece that considers immigration, belonging, national identity and the lives of immigrant workers in vulnerable economic positions, was shown in the Stedelijk’s recent exhibition Freedom of Movement.

EYE FILMMUSEUM Eye Filmmuseum takes its cultural icon status to a whole new level. Housed in one of the city’s most iconic modern architectural feats, this national museum for film is a joy to behold. Sitting proudly on the River IJ in Amsterdam Noord, the Eye boasts four cinemas, exhibition spaces, a shop and a popular sunny café looking across to the city. The museum manages some 40,000 films, coordinates exhibitions and has a keen eye on contemporary debate, making it a must for film enthusiasts. UNSEEN In eight short years, Unseen Amsterdam has cemented its reputation as the place to see cutting-edge contemporary photography. Emerging and established photographers are presented side-by-side with a programme that includes workshops, lectures and a large Book Market popular with punters.

FOAM Photography museum Foam champions Dutch talent and presents an exciting selection of contemporary and archival work by both local and international photographers. Its aim is to inform and inspire audiences by presenting all facets of contemporary photography through stimulating exhibitions, debates, educational programmes and publications. IDFA The International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam has been presenting independent and inspiring films for over 30 years. This incredible festival brings together filmmakers, financiers and filmgoers to experience diverse documentaries. It supports a dynamic programme with workshops and talks, focused events tackling contemporary issues affecting the industry, and IDFA DocLab that explores the impact of digital technologies

INSIDER TIP

Tomorrowland celebrates its 15th anniversary at Amsterdam's Ziggo Dome during ADE on 17 and 18 October

Tomorrowland

‘Amsterdam offers multiple venues to take in music, and during ADE they’re pumping day and night. Keep an eye on programmes at smaller venues such as Cinetol, Garage Noord and Sexyland.’ Jesler Amarins (33), programmer, ADE

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Kim Wilde paid tribute to the Paradiso in her track ‘Rock the Paradiso’, with the venue appearing in the background on her most recent album cover.

For more details on Amsterdam’s cultural season, visit iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

on documentary filmmaking. Pitch sessions and themed film screenings are also on offer.

Take it to the stage

Whether theatre, opera, ballet or classical music, Amsterdam’s stages have something for every culture vulture. ITA Previously known as the Stadschouwburg Amsterdam, Internationaal Theater Amsterdam (ITA) leads the way with its stellar cast of actors, pioneering directors, and award-winning productions. Director Ivo van Hove has transformed ITA into an internationally renowned and respected theatre that regularly presents extraordinary performances. The exciting 19/20 season includes The Homecoming, La voix humaine, and Freud, with Ivo van Hove being the first to stage the script.

DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA As a creator and producer, the Dutch National Opera & Ballet presents both traditional and innovative opera and ballet productions at home in the Netherlands and on the international stage, where it has gained a formidable reputation for high-quality performances. This large cultural organisation strives to keep the tradition, artistry and craftsmanship of opera and ballet alive in the hearts and minds of audiences. A part of their modus operandi is to breathe new life into the classics, rediscover lesser known works, and create new operas. It’s all about excellence and spectacle at this iconic institution. ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ Perfectly located on the banks of the River Amstel, it’s hard to believe that the majestic Carré was in danger of being demolished in the 1960s. With a rich history of staging circus performances, vaudeville

11 shows and concerts in the 19th and 20th centuries, the theatre is once again one of Amsterdam’s most cherished icons. National and international operas, musicals and concerts can be seen in this lovingly renovated building along with theatre and contemporary circus performances. ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW On the southside of Museumplein, the Royal Concertgebouw has been wowing audiences with its exceptional acoustics, a feature credited to architect Dolf van Gendt, since 1888. The sublime musical experience offered to visitors makes it one of the world’s leading venues. Each year, some 900 events are held with 700,000 visitors enraptured by the acoustics alone. Over the years it has hosted musical greats including Gustav Mahler, Richard Strauss and Louis Armstrong, with the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, voted the world’s best orchestra, calling the venue home.

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Jussen Brothers

Brothers Lucas and Arthur Jussen have built their reputation as fine musicians ever since they began performing in public when they were young lads. Since those heady days, they’ve studied with music masters, recorded concertos by Mozart, and gained recognition as pianists performing internationally to great acclaim. Lucas is also Artist in Residence with the Dutch Chamber Orchestra.

Rijksmuseum

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Twelve Hours Twenty-four Hours Forty-eight Hours Seventy-two+ Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72 hours

Go architecture spotting

Spend a leisurely afternoon seeking out Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive buildings. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Zevenlandenhuizen (houses of seven countries) on Roemer Visscherstraat where seven consecutive houses each follow a different architectural style. DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Your Trip

14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in…

Shop for Dutch design

Shop for elegant design pieces characterised by their creative simplicity in stores like Droog, Moooi Showroom and the I amsterdam Store. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Get your daily dose of culture

Head to the Rijksmuseum for the Dutch Golden Age masters, the Van Gogh Museum for more than 200 paintings by the post-impressionist himself, and the Stedelijk Museum for all things contemporary (all free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Have brunch on a boat

Double up on time by seeing the sights around the canals from a boat while you feast on the most important meal of the day. Book a spot on G’s Brunch Boat, famous for their Bloody Marys. DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

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Sip on a bespoke cocktail

hours in Amsterdam

Explore ancient artefacts

Arguably one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, the Tropenmuseum displays rare objects found on Dutch voyages all across the world (free with the I amsterdam City Card). DURATION: 2 HOURS

Spot a Picasso in the wild

You don’t need to step foot in a museum to admire an original Picasso in Amsterdam. Spot the sculpture ‘Figure découpée l’Oiseau’ in the south end of Vondelpark.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Ward off the incoming cold front with a cocktail in Amsterdam’s cosiest speakeasy, Hiding in Plain Sight. DURATION: 1 HOUR

Bring home a bunch of colourful blooms before the end of the flower season. Try the Albert Cuyp Market, Ten Kate Market or Dapper Market for the best selection. © DANIEL FARREL

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Meet Anne Frank

Visit the secret annexe where the Frank family hid for more than two years during the Second World War – pre-book your ticket online. You can also spot Jett Schepp’s sculpture on Merwedeplein of Anne looking back at her house one last time before going into hiding. DURATION: 2 HOURS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Buy yourself flowers

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Try classic Dutch ontbijtkoek (breakfast cake) fragranced with ginger and spices and slathered with butter.

Your Trip

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Experience a cinema like no other

Catch a film in the opulent Pathé Tuschinski cinema. The theatre itself is a feast for the eyes, decorated in several architectural styles with a heavy emphasis on Art Deco. © KOEN SMILDE

Just a short distance from Amsterdam Central Station, Haarlemmerstraat is an ideal destination for shopping. It’s filled with design stores, vintage and antique treasures, and chic dining spots.

Shop along Haarlemmerstraat

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

See local artists’ latest work in the independent art galleries dotted around the Jordaan neighbourhood. Tip: If you’re in town between 31 October and 3 November, expand your personal art collection with a piece from the Affordable Art Fair.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

DURATION: 1-2 HOURS

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

Support local artists

hours in Amsterdam

Indulge your inner art critic

Don’t miss the Cobra Museum of Modern Art, dedicated to the avant-garde Cobra movement (free with the I amsterdam City Card). DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Enjoy breathtaking panoramic views from the top floor of Amsterdam Public Library (OBA).

hours in Amsterdam

Dine in a former tram depot

De Hallen in the Oud-West neighbourhood is an industrial building turned foodie’s paradise, serving high-end street food from all over the world. The complex also houses art galleries, a cinema, design stores and chic restaurants like the Kanarie Club.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Get under the skin of this fascinating city at the Amsterdam City Archives. Among the historic documents, you can see the record of Anne Frank’s stolen bicycle and Rembrandt’s burial in 1669 (free with the I amsterdam City Card).

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Delve into the archives

Suit up for surtitled theatre Dutch theatre is made accessible for English speakers at venues such as Internationaal Theater Amsterdam (ITA) on Leidseplein (previously known as the Stadschouwburg). DURATION: 2 HOURS

Discover historic fishing villages

Travel back in time to sleepy coastal towns that have remained virtually unchanged for centuries. In Zaanse Schans, Volendam or Marken, you can admire scenic landscapes, towering windmills and traditional houses. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

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TOP 5 ➋

I amsterdam Store Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side

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➍ ➊ PAPER VASE Designed in Amsterdam, hand made by the Tiny Miracles communities in Mumbai. Turn bottles into vases with the Paper Vase Covers. €12.50 ➋ KESBEKE Since 1948, the Amsterdam-based family business Kesbeke has been making the most delicious pickled goods. The glass jars are now transformed into table lamps. €34.95 ➌ STADSPLANK ‘Hout van je Stad’ creates wooden boards from trees that were felled in the city. This chopping board is begging for some bitterballen, pickles and cheese. €29.95

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➍ LOWLANDER BEER Brewer Frederik Kampman wanted to know what would happen if you were to brew botanical herbs, spices and fruit to add a new flavour to beer. The result: quirky beer from the lowlands. Gift box: €14.95 ➎ BERLIN BACKPACKS Amsterdam brand Property of designed a collection of bags that will get you through any trip, whether 12 hours, 24 hours or over 48 hours long. Functional design made from recycled fabrics. Alex 24h bag: €169

#iamsterdamstore

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Seafood Celebration Tea-time Treats Hop Culture Pretty Central Shop, Eat, Repeat Peru in De Pijp Southern Star African Food Amsterdam Cookbooks Eastern Allure

Where to indulge in Amsterdam

Sababa

@ MOKUMISTA

This cheerful West-side falafel bar offers a (mostly) vegetarian take on the Israeli food trend with its colourful organic salad bowls, richly filled sourdough pitas and hyper-crisp halloumi fries. The concept ‘combines the best of Israel with local vegetables’ to create dishes like the signature seaweed falafel (with grilled pointed cabbage, roast tomatoes, harissayoghurt sauce and dates). KINKERSTRAAT 230 SABABA.NU

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Eat

At Frank’s Smoke House, the king crab served warm with Pernod butter (€32) and the hot-smoked salmon with hollandaise sauce, wilted spinach and boiled potatoes (€24) come highly recommended.

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Frank’s Smoke House

Baltimore-born Frank Heyn has gained some renown in town over the past 20 years for hickory-smoking everything from wild King Chinook Alaska salmon and North Sea herring and halibut to Porc au Grain pork and even beer, butter, cheese and chocolate (yes, really!). You can taste it all at his shop, deli and café, where you can grab oysters for €1 each from 4 pm-7 pm every Friday. Or join one of Frank’s seafood-themed feasts, like the ‘I’m Feeling Japanese Party’ on 12 October, where a whole line-caught fresh tuna will form the centrepiece. Book online.

OOSTENBURGERVOORSTRAAT 1 SMOKEHOUSE.NL

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Liven up your seafood feast with the hand-painted Animaux de Cuisine homewares collection by local label Fabienne Chapot . (from €4.50). HARTENSTRAAT 7 FABIENNECHAPOT.COM

Albert Cuyp Market

Seafood Celebration

Head to Amsterdam’s most famous street market for fish so fresh the herons come begging. There’s also plenty of fried fish to try, and you can get your daily dose of omega-3 at one of the many herring sellers here. ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT ALBERTCUYP-MARKT.AMSTERDAM

There’s arguably no better place to dive into all the North Sea has to offer than in a city built on water near the Dutch coast.

Pesca

You’ll find everything from bouillabaisse and pulpo to a signature grilled seabass and full-on seafood platters at this ‘theatre of fish’. ROZENGRACHT 133, PESCA.RESTAURANT

@ SHOTSOFLOUIS

eafood has long played an important part in the diet and economy of Amsterdam and its people. Many of the area’s earliest inhabitants were fishermen. No surprise in such a waterlogged spot, right? But, did you know that ‘Amsterdam was built on herring bones’, as a local saying goes? That’s right: Holland owes its Golden Age partly to that humble silvery-grey fish still sold at haring stalls all over the city. Historians believe that the Netherlands gained its upper hand on the world seas in the 17th century because Dutch sailors were kept fat and healthy on lightly brined herring, an excellent source of protein and omega fatty acids. Thankfully, Mokum’s obsession with seafood hasn’t died down over the centuries since. And even today, hungry pescavores needn’t travel too far to stumble upon something fresh and fishy. From local favourites such as kibbeling (deep-fried battered cod), smoked eel and steaming pots of Zeeland-grown mussels, to freshly shucked oysters, trendy ceviche and luxurious platters of fruits de mer, Amsterdam has something to offer every type of seafood lover.

Mossel & Gin The waffle with crème fraîche and trout caviar (€7) and creative Amsterdam-style ceviche at cevicheria Sjefietshé are worth a detour. VAN OSTADESTRAAT 1 SJEFIETSHE.NL

To invigorate the image of outmoded ‘mussels and fries’, this magnificently located specialist pairs six delicious riffs on the theme (from €18) with terrific gin and tonics. ‘It fits well in terms of taste, but also lowers the threshold for the younger generations,’ explains co-owner Josh Selter. GOSSCHALKLAAN 12 MOSSELENGIN.NL

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Eat & Drink

22 | BEST AFTERNOON TEAS

Hop & Stork

Whether you prefer oldschool tea and scones or a more modern approach, with tipples instead of tea, these are the best afternoon teas Amsterdam has to offer. But whatever you choose, do remember to book in advance.

Head to the new ‘chocolate atelier’ Hop & Stork for an indulgent High Chocolate (€29.50 pp), which includes sandwiches, pastries, drinks and an abundance of cacao-based confectionery. SPUISTRAAT 139 HOPENSTORK.COM

Tea-time Treats Pastry Chef Vipin Charly’s seasonally-themed afternoon tea creations for the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam are famously fantastical. Expect an etagere laden with sweet and savoury treats that offer a witty take on the classics (think smoked salmon-beetroot roses or apple-cream popsicles), gold-flecked caramel tea, and fabulously fluffy vanilla and chocolate scones (€54.50 pp). HERENGRACHT 542-556 WALDORFASTORIA3.HILTON.COM

Tea at Peacock Alley

High Wine at The Dylan

Happyhappyjoyjoy

KEIZERSGRACHT 384 OCCO.NL

VARIOUS LOCATIONS HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY.ASIA

Three ‘amuse-style bites’ and a dessert, with matching wines (€39.50 pp), are served in this marble bar-brasserie with views of a Golden Age courtyard. Prepared in a kitchen shared with Michelin-starred Vinkeles next door, it might include smoked Icelandic halibut with a sweet-spicy soy sauce paired with a fruity Sicilian wine.

Tea time at this colourful pan-Asian street food eatery brings a bamboo basket brimming with tasty bites, including duck spring rolls, shrimp lucky bags, steamed mantao buns and jasmine tea (€19.95 pp).

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Hop Culture

For the city’s best brewpub grub, go to Oedipus Taproom for unbeatable burgers (pictured) or try über-classic Bavarian pork knuckle at Lion’s Head Brew Bar.

Brewpubs – breweries with a tasting room and bars with brewery tanks – are becoming increasingly popular in Amsterdam.

rouwerij ‘t IJ was offering its awardwinning organic brews at its famous windmill-slash-tasting house for almost two decades before the city’s craft beer boom began. Then, in the 2010s, a tsunami of trendy tasting houses hit Amsterdam, in step with the global beer revival. These included the socially-conscious micro-brewery Brouwerij De Prael, Brouwerij Troost, known for its tasting rooms in historic locales, and the hip, slight-

ly edgy Butcher’s Tears. They were followed by the colourful and quirkily labelled Oedipus Brewing, the idiosyncratically flavoured De 7 Deugden, and the traditionally Dutch Brouwerij Poesiat & Kater, and many others. Recent openings include the German beer cultureinspired Lion’s Head Brew Bar, all-female owned brew bar Gebrouwen door Vrouwen, and a new Brouwerij ‘t IJ locale at the iconic Blue Tea House in Vondelpark, to name a few.

BROUWERIJHETIJ.NL * BROUWERIJTROOST.NL * BUTCHERS-TEARS.COM * OEDIPUS.COM * DE7DEUGDEN.NL * DEPRAEL.NL * POESIATENKATER.NL * LIONSHEADBREWING.COM * GEBROUWENDOORVROUWEN.NL

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Shop

24 | SHOPPING IN CENTRUM

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Canal Ring • Czaar Peterstraat

Pretty Central Whether you prefer canal-side shopping, lesser-known areas or the heaving high street, Amsterdam’s centre offers it all.

ost visitors make a beeline for premium department stores with tax-free perks like De Bijenkorf and Hudson’s Bay near Dam Square, and many head down nearby Kalverstraat, the Netherlands’ most famous shopping street. Meanwhile, the micro-neighbourhood known as the Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’) and the adjacent Jordaan area appeal to even the most jaded shopper. While rising rents have pushed out many of the area’s indie stores, you’re still guaranteed to find a special little something from Amsterdam in these delightful shopping districts, making them ideal for hours of relaxed browsing. But if you enjoy exploring, you might just stumble across some of the splendid shops secreted away on otherwise unremarkable streets.

Petit by Sam

Eschewing ingredients such as butter, white sugar and white flour, this new pastry shop offers ‘an alternative to traditional cakes and pastries’ with mini-sized treats that ‘have nutritional benefits on top of being delicious’. Think chocolate-chip cookie cakes, berry cheesecake and lemon-blueberry loaf – all vegan, dairy-free and gluten-free – served with specialty coffee from Amsterdam-based roastery White Label Coffee. VIJZELSTRAAT 93 PETITBYSAM.COM

L’Étoile de St Honoré

You’ll find high-end fashion treasures like rare Chanel 2.55s, Louis Vuitton hobos, Dior saddlebags, and Hermès Kelly bags at this vintage Valhalla. The merch is safely ensconced in glass cases, with prices in full view, so there’s none of that awkward asking. HEILIGEWEG 9 ETOILE-LUXURYVINTAGE.COM

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

Chabi’s

This specialist kids’ shoe store was inspired by the owners’ struggle to find quality footwear with sufficient support for their child who started walking precociously early. Located in the Negen Straatjes, you’ll find all the best Italian, Portuguese, Danish and Dutch labels here in sizes 19 to 27.

@ ITROUVA

Unisex fragrance Pepe Nero by Tuscan perfumery Wally packs a peppery punch (€63.50 at Sjoerd Vis).

Sjoerd Vis (39, pictured left), founder of Sjoerd Vis Beauty Salon

Ark Colour Design’s quirky hand-crafted ceramic plant pot head (€185) is available at Dreamboat Design & Studio.

The animated beautician’s salon is located in an old coach house ‘on a cute, quiet little residential street’ in an otherwise very busy touristy area. ‘Like the Langestraat, our salon is homey and relaxed,’ Sjoerd says, adding: ‘We make a lot of time for our clients. I always say, the added ingredient is looooove.’ As one of the first beauticians to specialise in brows in Amsterdam, he has ‘over 20 years’ experience creating Vogue magazine cover eyebrows – the most perfect eyebrow shape with the sharpest underline ever.’ In addition to Sjoerd’s signature brows, he also offers ‘a heck of an eyelash VIP lifting treatment and a deep tissue massage,’ which he’s ‘great at’ because of his ‘background as a physiotherapist’. Meanwhile, Sjoerd’s husband Frank (pictured right) does nail art and OPI manicures. ‘We only work with the best products here,’ explains Sjoerd, ‘including exclusive heritage brands such as Maria Galland cosmetics and Wally Parfums.’

CZAAR PETERSTRAAT 145 DREAMBOAT.NU

LANGESTRAAT 47A SJOERDVIS.COM

RUNSTRAAT 3 CHABIS.NL

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Czaar Peterstraat

With its varied selection of high-end fashion boutiques, art galleries and gourmet shops, including specialists in French cheese, Ethiopian coffee, Italian wines, craft beers, niche whiskies, oil and vinegar, single-origin chocolate bars and even artisanal peanut butter, this locals’ secret on the eastern rim of Centrum is well worth discovering.

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The Avocado Show’s new all-day concept off busy Leidsestraat offers all the usual avocado-themed burgers and bowls, plus avocado fries, awesome avo-peanut ice cream and more.

Eat

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26 | MID-SHOPPING LUNCH SPOTS

Eat, Shop, Repeat

For a city that gets its share of rain, it’s surprising that mall culture’s never taken off here. Indeed, traversing Amsterdam’s open-air retail streets is hungry (and often wet) work, so it pays to know where to go to unwind and warm up while you’re out flashing your cash. Restaurant MOMO

Cut Throat x Ed’s Caribbean

Around the corner from posh P.C. Hooftstraat is an Asian fusion spot famous for its bento boxes (from €24) and cocktails (from €14.90). Noteworthy new menu items include no-rice sushi rolls and scallop shumai with Beluga caviar and aged XO ponzu dip.

After putting the ‘bar’ back into barbershop, Cut Throat has brought pepperpot (a rich, dark beef stew), jerk chicken, empanadas, cassava fries with Creole mayo, and island-style cocktails to the peoplepacked Palace Quarter, with mains starting at €10. BEURSPLEIN 5 CUTTHROATBARBER.NL

HOBBEMASTRAAT 1 MOMO-AMSTERDAM.COM

Wolf Atelier

Restaurant GUTS

Near hip Haarlemmerstraat, chef Michael Wolf’s playground is perched on a disused rotary railway bridge with 360-degree views of the Western Docklands. Expect personal hospitality and dishes focused on the Netherlands’ superb local produce and seafood, like langoustine with potato mousseline, bisque and aioli (four-course menu €46).

Situated on a street popular with local shoppers, the concept chameleon formerly known as Guts & Glory has ditched the restrictions of themed menus in favour of just-as-glorious evergreens like oysters with burned lemon and onion vinaigrette (€8.50 for two) and sweetbread nuggets in salsa verde (€12.50). UTRECHTSESTRAAT 6 BREDAGROUP-AMSTERDAM.COM

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NAZKA’s Lima-born chef Christian Motte’s modern take on Peruvian cuisine was inspired by stints at trendsetting restaurants in London (Andina and Señor Ceviche), Dubai (INKA) and Geneva (ALMA).

Peru in De Pijp

here’s nothing new about Peruvian food in Amsterdam. In fact, Peru’s culinary darling, ceviche, has become almost ubiquitous on the city’s menus. But considering the country’s wealth of ingredients and diverse kitchen – an exciting blend of Andean, European, Asian and Creole traditions – its enduring appeal is understandable. What’s new about NAZKA, which opened on a corner of busy Van Woustraat in June, is that it claims to be Amsterdam’s first high-end purveyor of Peruvian cuisine, and a canvas for its chef’s

versions of traditional specialities like lomo saltado (stir-fried beef ), tiradito (sashimi-style octopus), and anticucho (beef heart kebabs). There are also three spot-on varieties of ceviche, including a delicately balanced ‘Ceviche Classico’ (seabass lightly cured in a lime-aji-amarillo leche de tigre, with textural contrast courtesy of creamy sweet potato puree, crispy cancha and nutty choclo corn). Tip: order the barbecued aubergine with aji panca sauce, smoked yoghurt, padron peppers and toasted peanuts.

Expect a world tour of flavours at NAZKA, Amsterdam’s latest and greatest Peruvian restaurant.

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Turn on the fun with Rrudi’s Pop Art light objects, available at Groen+Akker (€449).

28 | SOUTH-SIDE SHOPPING

Groen+Akker

A white interior forms a neutral foil for colourful design by upand-coming European designers such as Rrudi and UAU Project, and established brands like Hay, Vitra and Serax. For singular gifts, stylish homewares and some genuinely quirky finds – including everything from minimalist Scandinavian ceramics to exuberant pop-art light objects, and from side tables to scented candles and baby rompers – you’re at the right address. GOVERT FLINCKSTRAAT 114, GROENENAKKER.NL

Hermès Amsterdam Store

The new Hermès store offers more space for the 182-year-old French luxury house’s famous Birkin bags and iconic silk scarves. You’ll find those scarves on the ground floor, along with perfumes, costume jewellery, prêt-à-porter, shoes and accessories (M/F). The home collection is on the mezzanine level, while up the sculptural wooden staircase you’ll find the fine jewellery, watches and leather goods (M/F). P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 94 HERMES.COM

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter • De Pijp

Southern Star From age-old art to cutting-edge chic, Zuid is the district for discerning shoppers.

his attractive neighbourhood rewards the visitor at every turn, from the magnificence of Museumplein, home to some of the world’s finest art museums, to the allure of the P.C. Hooftstraat, where you’ll find all the most exclusive names. Chic boutiques abound and impressive manors line leafy

streets in the well-heeled area around the Cornelis Schuytstraat. The coolest concept stores, indie boutiques and vintage shops are to be found in the streets surrounding the famous Albert Cuyp Market. While you’re there, follow your nose to the stroopwafel stand for freshly baked syrup-filled waffle cookies.

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Trust a Dutch bike brand to make the most stylish balance bike ever (suitable for ages 2-4). Available from Veloretti in nine fashionable colours (€99).

Made from Ibizan grapes, Ibizkus rosé is floral and fruity (€19.95, from Ibiza Dreams).

VAN WOUSTRAAT 72, VELORETTI.COM

BEST UPCOMING SHOPPING STREET:

Van Woustraat

The next-gen stores on this upcoming street are still spread far and wide but run the gamut from cute kids clothing boutiques to achingly trendy bike shops and concept stores. You’ll also find a sneaker specialist, a local eyewear brand, a brow bar, and Amsterdam’s oldest street market here.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Marion van de Stolpe (59), founder/owner of Ibiza Dreams

Matcha Mafia

This tea bar-slash-shop is the realisation of founder Marije Achterbosch’s dream of bringing her beloved NY-style matcha lattes to Amsterdam. Made with 100% natural ceremonial-grade matcha and a selection of (vegan) milk, there are over ten (iced) lattes as well as lemonades, juices, power balls and chia pudding jars. Grab it to go or relax in the eclectic upstairs tea lounge. SAENREDAMSTRAAT 26 MATCHAMAFIA.COM

‘My first step on the island of Ibiza 20 years ago was love at first sight’ says the Fashion Academy-trained former model, mom-of-three and boho boutique owner. ‘The island gives me the inspiration to create my handmade fashions, which are made under fair trade conditions using 100% natural materials.’ While Marion’s main focus is on kimonos, flowy dresses and beachy kaftan blouses, freely admitting that cold weather isn’t her favourite, she makes up for it by stocking ‘comfy clothes like knitted vests, flared trousers, and cosy joggers in winter white, beige, light grey and brown’. There are always a few beach essentials for those all-important holiday breaks to warmer climes here (handy in off-season!), as well as Ibizan brands like Sal de Ibiza gourmet salts, Mar de Ibiza cosmetics, Ibizkus wine, and womenswear from Tom Tom Ibiza, Bindi and Isla Bonita Ibiza. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 89 BY-DREAMS.COM

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If you’ve never tried South Africa’s moreish meat candy, biltong, here’s your chance. It pairs perfectly with the lagers at Lion’s Head Brew Bar (€10 for 100g).

30 | OUT OF AFRICA

African Eateries The warm African sun on your plate is a perfect antidote to our cold, grey, autumn skies. And there’s plenty to try, from the tagines of the north to the beloved biltong (cured, spiced meat) of the south, and from the sour-flavoured flatbreads of the east to the tangy-spicy dishes of the west. Goldcoast Kitchen

Eetcafé Ibis

In an old parking garage at the multi-cultural food court World of Food, this Ghanaian gem pumps out West African favourites, including a terrifically spicy peanut soup with fufu (a starchy staple made with cassava and green plantains) for €10.

At one of the city’s best East African eateries, the house speciality (€17.50) includes five traditional spiced meat dishes and stews, a selection of legume-based salads and injera (sourdough pancakes). There are also an abundance of vegetarian and vegan options, some of which are gluten-free.

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Lion’s Head Brew Bar

Mamouche

The Capetonian chefs at this gastropub prepare Southern African classics like Mozambican peri-peri chicken (chillispiced birds grilled on the Green Egg, served with garlic bread puree and smoked vegetable salsa, €20) and peppermint crisp tart (coconut biscuits, dulce de leche-infused whipped cream, and chocolate and peppermint shards, €12).

A Moroccan immigrant influx has familiarised the Dutch with dishes like couscous and tagine, and this De Pijp fixture remains the best place to enjoy them. On the French-Moroccan menu, specialities like b’astilla (sweet-savoury chicken pie, €10.50) and couscous mechoui (€20.50), sit next to star aniseinfused crème brûlée (€8).

VAN WOUSTRAAT 34 LIONSHEADBREWING.COM

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Deputy Editor Vicky Hampton’s office lunches here at I amsterdam are legendary, and she’s collected 50 canteen-proof recipes in her cookbook Working Lunch (€4.99, bol.com).

Amsterdam Cookbooks We’ve rounded up our favourite cookbooks featuring recipes from Amsterdam’s best restaurants and cafés.

t didn’t take long for a slew of restaurant cookbooks to appear after Amsterdam’s restaurant scene finally grew up. One of the first, simply titled The Amsterdam Cook Book (€20, bol.com) invites everyone to ‘take a little bit of Amsterdam home’ by cooking 40 recipes from a line-up including Loetje’s famous steak, Thai Food Café’s vegan pad thai and Justin Brown’s pork belly bao buns. In the similarly titled Amsterdam Cookbook (€24.99, bol.com) culinary journalist Laura de Grave reveals the kitchen stories behind the 30 dishes featured,

and introduces the master craftspeople responsible for preserving centuries-old traditions. Meanwhile, the recently published Shortlist Amsterdam (€35, bol.com) combines the best from the two acclaimed Dutch-language cookbooks by the sisters Famke and Floor van Praag, who write about restaurants for I amsterdam Magazine’s Dutch sister publication Uitkrant. The book focuses on 44 recipes from 22 restaurants and cafés, from Rijsel’s iconic rotisserie chicken and Scheepskameel’s ceviche to fabulous vegetable creations by BAK.

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Shop

32 | EAST-SIDE SHOPPING

Shopping District: Dapperbuurt • Javastraat • Oostpoort

Eastern Allure Get out of your comfort zone with our essential guide to shopping in Amsterdam’s eclectic East.

Doordeweeks

This all-in-one concept in Oostpoort combines new and vintage women’s clothing and accessories, natural cosmetics and home decor with a make-up and coffee bar. Think blue satin slip dresses, high-waisted khaki trousers, silk clutches, retro sunglasses, and pre-loved Dior pumps. But also hand-painted mugs, cut-glass tumblers and pink velvet throw pillows.

If you’re still clinging to the Canal Ring like every other tourist, we daresay you’re missing out on the real Amsterdam. Today many of the city’s most exciting shops, best markets and trendiest restaurants and bars can be found a stone’s throw southeast of Centrum in the neighbourhood known as Oost. Sometimes compared to London’s Soho and New York’s Greenwich Village, the district is actually made up of many distinct shopping areas. There’s plenty to explore here, from the diverse Dapperbuurt with its dynamic daily market to the up-and-coming Oostpoort, chic Middenweg and hip Javastraat, so grab a bike and get going.

Get your arm candy at streetwear and sneaker boutique DIV (Komono watches from €59)

Dappermarkt

This outdoor street market is one of Amsterdam’s liveliest and most multi-cultural, with 250 stalls selling everything from tulips and textiles to fish and fresh fruit. It’s the place to search for bargains and hard-to-find ingredients for your most exotic recipes. DAPPERSTRAAT, DAPPERMARKT.NL

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This 100% pure infusion of hemp leaf, flower and seeds has ‘a relaxing effect on body and mind’ (€4.99 at sustainable store Het Faire Oosten).

Silky smooth The Stillery vodka is made with organic Dutch spelt (from €25.50 at Dorstlust’s Drankerij).

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INSIDER INTERVIEW Tessa Monfrooy (29), co-founder of Dorstlust’s Drankerij

X-Store Amsterdam

Way out in the Eastern Docklands is a new streetwear store inspired by the Dutch hip-hop scene, where you’ll find exclusive (and custommade) sneakers, accessories and ‘urban fashion’ by brands like Public Makes Image (pictured), LaVall, Believe That, Yeezy and Nike, as well as artist merchandise. VEEMARKT 36A XSTOREAMSTERDAM.COM

HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET:

Javastraat

Fast-gentrifying Javastraat is a raw blend of old and new, where Moroccan butchers and Turkish kebab shops sit next to trendy concept stores, bookshops, stylish (coffee) boutiques and balcony specialists. The street is also an upcoming dining and drinking destination, so there are plenty of places to rest and refuel.

Hunt for retro furniture and design classics at Jansen Vintage. JAVAPLEIN 31 JANSENVINTAGE.NL

Tessa and her partners at Dorstlust (a Dutch amalgamation of ‘thirst’ and ‘passion’) are looking to ‘add some badassery to the soft drink market’ in Amsterdam by being ‘the address to buy something different to drink’. From local liquors to ‘craft sodas’, including quirky options such as basil soda and algae juice, you’ll find all the ‘finest drinks in town’ at this specialist shop. Tessa explains: ‘We’re looking for that special thing; a distinctive flavour, a great story, a beautiful bottle, the best quality, or a mixture of those things. My favourite is still Club-Mate,’ she says, ‘because it’s the drink that inspired us to start this store.’ Why Oost? ‘We’re fans of Amsterdam East,’ says Tessa, ‘and when you walk into our street you’ll understand. There’s a laidback vibe here and a lot is happening gastronomy-wise, from cool bars and comfy coffee places to beautiful restaurants and many local entrepreneurs.’ PRETORIUSSTRAAT 1 DORSTLUST.NL

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Rembrandt & the Dutch Golden Age In 2019 we celebrate Rembrandt’s life, with a year of breathtaking exhibitions in museums all over the Netherlands.

iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

PA N A M S T E R DA M 2 0 1 9 | R A I A M S T E R DA M

NOVEMBER

24 – 01

DECEMBER

OPENING TIMES 24 November — 12 pm – 9 pm

28 November — 12 pm – 6 pm

25 November — 12 pm – 9 pm

29 November — 12 pm – 6 pm

26 November — 12 pm – 9 pm

30 November — 12 pm – 6 pm

27 November — 12 pm – 9 pm

01 December — 12 pm – 6 pm

Fair for Art, Antiques and Design

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Dates for your Amsterdam agenda

36 39 40 42 43 44 46 47 48 50

Exhibitions Collections Festivals & Events On Stage On Screen Pop & Rock Classical LGBTI Clubbing Family Fun

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Intense Mexico From the Mexican Revolution in 1910 through to globalisation in the 1990s, this vibrant exhibition charts modern Mexican art and culture with a focus on politics, identity, sex and death. See works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and Graciela Iturbide from Mexico’s respected Museo de Arte Moderno collection. 11 OCTOBER-29 MARCH, COBR A

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Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

coming and established photographers, much of which will be exhibited for the first time. Unseen also champions new talent with the ING Unseen Talent Award, the Meijburg Art Commission and the Dummy Award, which will see a winning book submission published.

his annual photography festival not only presents the latest in contemporary image-making from across the globe but also a diverse and expansive programme of events, lectures, exhibitions and the popular Book Market. This year, national and international galleries will show cutting-edge work by 300 up-and-

REMBRANDT LABORATORY In an effort to learn all there is to know about Rembrandt’s masterful secrets, Rembrandt House Museum is creating a laboratory to investigate how he created his paintings and etchings. Gain insight into his process, and the dilemmas researchers and conservators face.

13 SEPTEMBER-10 NOVEMBER JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER

21 SEPTEMBER-16 FEBRUARY REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

ST. PETER IN PRISON Painted in Leiden in 1631, St. Peter in Prison is one of Rembrandt’s early works. For the first time in 120 years, the painting will be on show in Amsterdam as part of the Rembrandt Year celebrations. It’s a great example of Rembrandt’s skill at portraying the spirituality of his sitter.

20-22 SEPTEMBER, WESTERGASTERREIN

FUTURE FOOD A growing population means more mouths to feed. Gain insight into the future of food at this fascinating exhibition pondering what we may well be eating in the future. Explore what plant-based options are in development and where animal-based foods are heading. Bugs for breakfast anyone? UNTIL 6 OCTOBER THE STUDIO, NEMO

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Chagall, Picasso, Mondrian

Chagall, Picasso, Mondrian and others: migrant artists in Paris brings together the work of a group of foreign artists living in the city between 1900 and 1950, a time of great upheaval. The exhibition highlights the way these artists found their place, and how they dared to create and take their art to new levels. Despite the challenges of the time, and a society that was increasingly polarised, nationalistic and xenophobic, these artists strived to create powerful work. Featuring more than 50 artists, photographers and designers selected from the Stedelijk’s collection, this exhibition is an incredible opportunity to experience modern masters and to discover new artists.

Jewels!

Featuring over 100 antique and art dealers, PAN Amsterdam brings together a fine selection of paintings, antiques, modern and contemporary art, jewellery, photography, design furniture and objects. PAN prides itself on presenting affordable works from ancient and distant cultures in a friendly atmosphere, making it a great opportunity to meet art dealers as you browse amazing works of art.

Here’s your chance to step back in time and experience the upper echelons of the Russian court in St Petersburg. This exhibition highlights the Hermitage’s glittering collection of fabulous jewellery complemented by a stunning selection of portraits featuring a profusion of richly decorated gowns. Grand dukes and duchesses, tsarinas and noble fashionistas of the time donned dazzling costumes which were set off by brilliant bijoux hinting at the identity, taste, breeding and wealth of the wearer. Sadly, the Russian Revolution saw many masterpieces lost, but this exhibition presents a gleaming array of the surviving jewels, including pieces supplied by leading houses such as Cartier, Tiffany, and supplier to the Imperial Crown, Fabergé.

24 NOVEMBER-1 DECEMBER, AMSTERDAM RAI

14 SEPTEMBER-15 MARCH, HERMITAGE

21 SEPTEMBER-2 FEBRUARY, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

PAN Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND At the end of November, Amsterdam’s cutting-edge contemporary art venues come together for Amsterdam Art Weekend. It’s your chance to see the work of talented young artists with over 100 exhibitions, performances, screenings and debates taking place.

‘ISO Amsterdam is a collaborative working INSIDER TIP space in an old warehouse with around 30 studios for creatives. It stages unique events and experiences with the aim of providing insight into the artistic process and what goes on behind the scenes. Featuring a vibrant programme all about working collectively, it’s a great place to discover and participate in exhibitions, workshops, screenings, lectures, performances and music. The initiators’ aim is to be an ever-evolving stage for the (inter)national cultural community.’

21-24 NOVEMBER VARIOUS VENUES

Amelie Schüle, curator, Unseen Amsterdam

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KLM celebrates 100 years in 2019 by exhibiting its archive of commissioned photographs of passengers at Let’s Fly Away. This fabulous show tracks aviation’s heyday through to the present.

Exhibitions

UNTIL 6 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM CITY ARCHIVES

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Brassaï

Of Hungarian descent, French photographer Brassaï is the focus of this stunning exhibition at Foam. Known for his iconic black and white images depicting the grittier aspects of Parisian life in the 1930s, Brassaï also documented high society and intellectuals counting contemporaries such as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and Henri Matisse among his friends. Organised into 12 themes, the works reflects Brassaï’s unique eye and interest in diversity, providing an intimate glimpse into the city of love and its people. 13 SEPTEMBER-4 DECEMBER, FOAM

Rembrandt – Velázquez

The latest exhibition celebrating Rembrandt also celebrates Madrid’s Museo Nacional del Prado’s 200th anniversary by bringing Dutch and Spanish masters together. See an outstanding selection of paintings, including masterpieces by Rembrandt, Velázquez, Murillo and Hals, Zurbarán and Vermeer. The 17th century was a time of tremendous artistic achievement. A fascinating aspect of this exhibition is how works are paired, allowing the viewer to compare and contrast paintings as they contemplate similarities and differences between the images. 11 OCTOBER-19 JANUARY, RIJKSMUSEUM

Nicolás Jaar

Chilean artist and composer Nicolás Jaar is Het HEM’s second guest. During his ten-week residency, Jaar and his team of cartographers, linguists, coders, urban planners, sound makers, biologists, geneticists, graphic designers and engineers will undertake a period of extensive research of the Hembrug site with a focus on its sociological, archaeological and geographical history. From the resulting data, the artist will create a new light and sound piece that is both about and from the location where it is played. 20 SEPTEMBER-1 DECEMBER, HET HEM

ADRIÁN VILLAR ROJAS Argentinian artist Adrián Villar Rojas takes over Oude Kerk with an immersive installation. Based on historical research and multiple visits, Rojas’ piece is as wonderful as it is disturbing, and promises to be a fascinating and reflective journey through the church.

BERENICE ABBOTT Huis Marseille presents an expansive retrospective of American photographer Berenice Abbott, spanning architecture, urban design and portraits. A key figure in 20th-century photography, Abbott’s work links avant-garde with New York’s then-emerging art scene of the ’20s and ’30s.

21 NOVEMBER-26 APRIL OUDE KERK

7 SEPTEMBER-1 DECEMBER HUIS MARSEILLE

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Paul Gauguin, 1888

The Painter u er

ould Paul Gauguin have known when he painted this portrait of his friend Vincent at work that his subject would one day be one of the world’s most recognised artists? Who knows, but the French impressionist revered Van Gogh enough, despite the well-documented turbulence and eventual fracture of their relationship, to record

him at work in this December 1888 oil painting produced while the artists briefly lived together in Arles. When Van Gogh first saw the painting, he thought that Gauguin had depicted him as a madman, but he later softened, agreeing that ‘it was indeed me, extremely tired and charged with electricity as I was then’. VAN GOGH MUSEUM

COUNTER-COMPOSITION V, THEO VAN DOESBURG, 1924 Van Doesburg may not be as famous as his De Stijl co-founder Mondrian, but he was no less instrumental. The two artists eventually disagreed over aesthetic style, and the diagonal lines and rotated squares here are typical of Doesburg’s Elementarism.

PORTRAIT OF AN UNKNOWN WOMAN, JUDITH LEYSTER, 1635 For a long time, this painting was attributed to Frans Hals himself, despite the real artist having signed it ‘JL’. The first woman in Haarlem’s guild of painters, Leyster obtained the title ‘Master Painter’ in what was an intensely male-dominated industry.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

FRANS HALS MUSEUM

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Festivals & Events

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

40 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS AND ISADORA GOUDSBLOM

Super-Sonic Jazz Festival

This sonically super festival features a line-up of musicians who combine jazz with diverse musical genres. It’s all about creating new fusions by connecting genres that don’t traditionally gel with jazz, like electronic, classical, hip-hop or traditional African music. If you’re into jazz, this is the festival for you. And even if you’re not, the acts might just lure you in with their musical transgressions. 12-17 NOVEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Afrovibes

Afrovibes is an African cultural and performing arts festival that tours the Netherlands every autumn. It arrives in Amsterdam in October, bringing with it an exciting selection of urban and contemporary music, theatre, dance and design, featuring young urban creatives and extraordinary African artists. Plus, some productions invite collaborations with young Dutch talent.

Museum Night

ee Amsterdam’s museums in a completely new light – after dark! Spend a night at the museum during this annual event that sees Amsterdam’s cultural attractions spring to life as the sun sets. One wristband gets you entry to over 50 museums big and small until 2 am, where you’ll find all exhibits open as usual with the added pull of live music, DJs, food and drink, special events and unique surprises. Go under the stars at Artis Planetarium, take in ‘The Night Watch’ at the Rijksmuseum, or visit some of the city’s smaller institutions. No matter what you choose, you’ll find an infectiously convivial spirit across the city.

3-13 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

2 NOVEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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VOLLEYBALL The 31st European Volleyball Championships will take place in Amsterdam this autumn. Six matches will take place over three days with the Dutch team playing in two of those. Watch the action as defending teams compete to take the title from current champions, Russia. 17-19 SEPTEMBER SPORTHALLEN ZUID

CITY SWIM Every September, the canal cruise boats and other vessels share the waterways with 2,500 brave swimmers for Amsterdam City Swim. It’s all about raising money for motor neurone disease as swimmers seek sponsorship before diving into the canals on a gruelling but iconic 2,000-metre course through the city centre.

THE HOMECOMING — BY HAROLD PINTER 17 OCT, 21 & 28 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

8 SEPTEMBER, CITY CENTRE

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The eighth edition of the Amsterdam Light Festival takes ‘Disrupt!’ as its theme. See how artists respond by using light in innovative ways to create new impulses. 28 NOVEMBER-19 JANUARY, CITY-WIDE

Experience the power of story at this annual, multi-venue celebration of humanity’s oldest art form. This year’s theme is addiction, be it love, booze or any other myriad vices. For three thrilling days and nights, audiences across the city are transported to another place and time as acclaimed storytellers light up the long autumn nights with pacey plots, touching tales and real-life accounts from around the world. Many of the stories are told in English and take place at a range of venues across the city. 30 OCTOBER-3 NOVEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Amsterdam Storytelling Festival

Dutch Theatre Festival Each year, the Dutch Theatre Festival brings together a diverse range of productions from the best theatres in Amsterdam. Over the course of the programme, Dutch theatre prizes are awarded, performances from the Official Jury Selection are shown, philosophical discussions are held, and masterclasses take place, not to mention courses in how to watch theatre and a reading club. For professionals, NTF PRO uncovers the state of theatre production today and in the future. 5-15 SEPTEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

24H Oost

24H Amsterdam celebrates the city’s neighbourhoods with a massive programme of events over one day. Theatres, museums, shops, hotels, clubs and bars are just some of the venues to open their doors to showcase local talent. 24H Oost will shine the light on the neighbourhood’s vibrant culture that celebrates diversity. Take part in workshops, go on guided tours, enjoy performances, samples tasty food and drinks, or join parties. No matter what you choose, you’re bound to leave surprised (in a good way). 26 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

READ MY WORLD Amsterdam-based literary initiative Read My World is a platform for international authors. Every year it places focus on a different region, with the aim of exploring the work of writers and poets from that area. Get ready to learn all about Morocco through its talented pool of writers.

TCS MARATHON When it comes to running events, you could say Amsterdam has a personal best: the TCS Amsterdam Marathon. It takes place around the middle of October every year and draws elite runners from around the world – as well as thousands of amateurs. 20 OCTOBER OLYMPIC STADIUM

10-12 OCTOBER, TOLHUISTUIN

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On Stage

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Fringe Festival

s summer draws to a close, Amsterdam is firmly in the grip of performing arts, with the Dutch Theatre Festival and the accompanying Amsterdam Fringe Festival coming to town. Staging a huge array of productions by cutting-edge home-grown and international producers and artists at over 25 venues, the Amsterdam Fringe aims to be an ‘ode to independence’ and a ‘plea for artistic freedom’. Turning the entire city into a stage, the festival promises a wide selection of events that are suitable for non-Dutch speakers.

5-15 SEPTEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Language

Così fan tutte

5 SEPTEMBER, THEATER BELLEVUE

3-21 OCTOBER, DNO

Language as a link between cultures, but also as a barrier: this performance looks into how vocabulary and grammar can influence ways of thinking and of perceiving the world; the perils of translation; and the question of whether it’s possible to separate language from emotions and experiences. Concept, text and performance are by Vanja Rukavina, a former child refugee from Bosnia to the Netherlands, who draws on his experience of how learning a language is so closely intertwined with getting to know a new culture. Part of the Dutch Theatre Festival.

Mozart’s playful love story is set in a holiday resort, a setting that references reality shows of the ilk of Love Island, in this energetic, youthful production by the Dutch National Opera (DNO). Ivor Bolton conducts; the cast includes Angela Brower as Dorabella and Sebastian Kohlhepp as Ferrando in their DNO debuts, plus regulars such as baritone Thomas Oliemans as Don Alfonso.

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STABAT MATER Pergolesi’s Stabat Mater has spurred countless imitations and adaptations. The IJ-Salon series presents a choreography by Peter Leung that features soprano Tania Lorenzo and mezzo-soprano Rosina Fabius plus dancers Sophie Vergères and Frederik Kaijser. 28 SEPTEMBER MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

KUNSTKAMER The Nederlands Dans Theater (NDT) celebrates its 60th anniversary with this programme created by resident choreographers Sol León and Paul Lightfoot, and associate choreographers Crystal Pite and Marco Goecke. All dancers from NDT 1 and NDT 2 share the stage for this extraordinary tribute. 15 & 16 OCTOBER, DNO

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On Screen

TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

Andrei Tarkovsky

Tapis Rouge

Francophiles rejoice: there’s a new French film festival in town, Tapis Rouge. The festival’s agenda is bursting with French features, from recent classics through to the very best contemporary French cinema has to offer. Over five film-filled days, kick back and take in films such as Hors Normes (The Specials), Chanson Douce or Amanda, a sensitive French drama awarded the Grand Prix at the 31st Tokyo International Film Festival. Tapis Rouge is an initiative of L’Échappée Belle, in collaboration with Alliance Française Amsterdam.

Dive into the world of Russian filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky at this intimate exhibition, which features screenings of his complete oeuvre, including Solaris and The Sacrifice. You can learn more about Tarkovsky’s life by viewing a collection of his personal papers and photos, and there will also be a six-part lecture series led by Otto Boele, a professor of Russian studies at Leiden University. 14 SEPTEMBER6 DECEMBER EYE FILMMUSEUM

30 OCTOBER-3 NOVEMBER, HET KETELHUIS & PATHÉ TUSCHINSKI

IDFA

International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam

eld since 1988, IDFA is the world’s largest documentary festival and features lectures, workshops and over 300 movies that tell stories about life around the world. Some are funny, others sad, and they all represent the best the genre has to offer. Screenings take place throughout the city and include outdoor showings where you can watch a film under the night sky.

20 NOVEMBER-1 DECEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

KABOOM ANIMATION Kaboom Animation Festival is a new collaboration between KLIK and HAFF, a festival showcasing the latest and greatest animations. The varied programme includes animated shorts, a celebration of 100 years of Dutch animations and a focus on Korean films.

THE GOLEM Things will get spooky at this showing of The Golem: How He Came into the World. Made in 1920, it tells the story of a rabbi who makes a golem – a humanoid monster made from clay – to protect the Jews of Prague, but quickly loses control of his creation.

CAMERA JAPAN If you love everything Japanese, don’t miss this annual cultural festival. Packed with Japanese food, fashion and dance, it also includes screenings of the latest features, shorts and animated movies from this amazing country. Most them include subtitles.

13-17 NOVEMBER WESTERGASTERREIN

25 SEPTEMBER MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

3-6 OCTOBER, KRITERION AND OTHER LOCATIONS

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Pop & Rock

44 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND JAYNE ROBINSON

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

rder

anchester’s influential New Order come to Amsterdam as part of ADE. With an impressive back catalogue that includes ‘Blue Monday’, ‘The Perfect Kiss’ and ‘Bizarre Love Triangle’ among many others, New Order are set to rock AFAS Live with their inspired blend of electronic and rock music out of the ashes of the iconic post-punk band Joy Division. New Order’s recent album embraced electronica and featured guest vocals by La Roux, Iggy Pop and Brandon Flowers. Inextricably linked to the infamous Manchester club The Haçienda, and the birth of acid house and rave culture, the band have inspired others including Pet Shop Boys, Arcade Fire and Moby. Here’s your chance to catch this distinguished band.

17 OCTOBER, AFAS LIVE

HOZIER Irish singer-songwriter Hozier broke through with his chart-topping ‘Take Me to Church’ in 2013. The track tackled love, the catholic church and politics with its accompanying video challenging gay violence. With a second album now under his belt, expect an engaging performance at AFAS Live. 1 SEPTEMBER, AFAS LIVE

THE JAPANESE HOUSE English indie pop act The Japanese House is the alter-ego of Amber Bain, an artist who sings and plays guitars, synthesisers and keyboards. The Japanese House moniker refers to a property once owned by Kate Winslet with furnishings styled on a traditional Japanese tea house. 23 SEPTEMBER PARADISO NOORD

METRONOMY Hot on the heels of brandnew album Metronomy Forever, the idiosyncratic English five-piece stop off in Amsterdam as part of a European tour. Now six albums deep, the electronic band have more treasured material to choose from than most; find out what makes the set list at the Melkweg in October. 28 OCTOBER, MELKWEG

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Packed with their trademark synth-laden pop sound, Australian duo Monarchy released their third album Mid:Night earlier this year. This gig is bound to be a crowd-pleaser.

3 OCTOBER, MELKWEG

Whitney

In the hands of a lesser band, the pastoralinflected hues of Whitney’s unashamedly nostalgic Americana could easily have failed to ignite almost any excitement at all in a musical landscape where the demand for streams mean albums are stuffed full of songs desperate to grab one more click. Instead, the assured, earnest rock’n’roll of their 2016 debut album Light upon the Lake helped it earn a deserved place on playlists around the world. Live, the band perform with a free-wheeling ease that only helps increase the impression they’re the friends you never had. With new music promised this year, this might be the perfect time to see them. 18 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

Vampire Weekend

Singer-songwriter Hannah Harding, AKA Aldous Harding, released her third album earlier this year, cementing her status as an inventive and playful artist grounded in folk music. Her alluring sound defies categorisation, with her lyrics suggesting rather than telling stories.

Everyone’s favourite prep-pop purveyors have been away for a while, but they’re back this year with a new album for fans to sink their teeth into – and a double album at that. Father of the Bride is the New York band’s first release in six years, and brings the alt-rockers breezing back to European stages loaded with fizzy new material to delight fans.

27 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

19 NOVEMBER, AFAS LIVE

Aldous Harding

JAMES BLAKE James Blake laid his heart bare in latest album Assume Form; his love letter to partner Jameela Jamil. Filled with cascading colour and collabs with the world’s biggest hiphop artists, it’s clear that Blake is in a good place. Don’t miss this chance to catch the UK artist at the height of his powers.

LOYLE CARNER English hip-hop artist Loyle Carner wowed NME and The Guardian critics for his ‘sensitive and eloquent’ brand of ‘confessional hip-hop’ that can be found on his Mercury Prize nominated debut album Yesterday’s Gone. 24 NOVEMBER, MELKWEG

13 NOVEMBER, AFAS LIVE

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Classical

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Daniil Trifonov

elebrated by the media and esteemed colleagues alike (Martha Argerich has called him ‘technically incredible’ and blessed with a touch both tender and with a ‘demonic element’), Daniil Trifonov is finally in Amsterdam again. His Concertgebouw recital promises to be one of the highlights of the season. He plays works by Scriabin – Études and the Messe Noire – and Beethoven – the Sonata no. 31 – plus Prokofiev’s Sonata no. 8.

3 NOVEMBER, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Olli Mustonen, Ian Bostridge and Steven Isserlis

Piano Duo Festival

This festival enters its seventh edition with five days of concerts, workshops, kids’ events and more. The opening concert sees piano duo Scholtes & Janssens joined by musicians from the Vienna Chamber Symphony to introduce the festival theme – ‘All roads lead to Bach’ – with works by Kurtág, Mozart, Webern and, yes, Bach. Another highlight is Ten Holt’s Canto Ostinato.

DRAMA IN MUSIC Thomas Hengelbrock conducts the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra in Haydn’s blustery, intense Symphony no. 52, preceded by works by Purcell and Händel that are semi-dramatic: parts of Purcell’s semi-opera King Arthur and a pastiche of opera excerpts by Händel. 17, 18 & 20 OCTOBER, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

26 SEPTEMBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

9-13 OCTOBER, DE DUIF & ZONNEHUIS

Three internationally acclaimed soloists join forces for this concert, which brings together works spanning from 1900 until now. Olli Mustonen, the Finnish composer and pianist, has written his new work Taivaanvalot (Heavenly Lights) for tenor Ian Bostridge and cellist Steven Isserlis. The oldest work performed is Sibelius’ Malinconia, written after the death of his daughter.

ASKO|SCHÖNBERG AND WU WEI An evening full of unusual sounds: in Wilbert Bulsink’s harp concerto, Miriam Overlach uses scouring sponges on her instrument; Czech composer Ondrej Adámek, who has a penchant for homemade instruments, has written a solo concerto for the Chinese multi-reed mouth organ sheng; Unsuk Chin from Korea creates a paradoxical combination of free improvisation and rigid structures in her work Fantaisie mécanique. 14 NOVEMBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

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LGBTI 3x NYX

TEXT: DAVID WILLS |

Streetheart Festival

Widely considered to be the first LGBTI street in the Netherlands, the Kerkstraat plays host to the Streetheart Festival. This free and fabulous festival is all about celebrating Amsterdam’s open and tolerant attitude and is organised by the infamous club, Church. Their quirky performers will entertain the queer crowd while the club’s DJs will get people dancing. And everyone is welcome! 14 SEPTEMBER, KERKSTRAAT

x NYX is one of the most popular LGBT nights in Amsterdam, but – of course – people of all backgrounds, sexualities and identities are more than welcome. Expect a range of music in this three-storey extravaganza, including pop, house, hip-hop, R&B and even a few ’90s guilty pleasures. There’s some top-notch entertainment on offer, not to mention fellow club-goers dressed in dazzling and outrageous outfits. SATURDAYS, CLUB NYX

Leather Pride

Invading various locations in Amsterdam’s centre every autumn, Leather Pride is a hugely popular collection of events for thousands of leather and fetish fans. Typically, you can find a wealth of parties going on, as well as one major festive event on the Saturday night. But there’s more to Leather Pride than that... shop, socialise, celebrate and even learn at one of the Leather Pride workshops. 24-27 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

27 SEP, 3 & 10 OCT SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

THURSDAYS, CHURCH

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BLUE House of Hopelezz is where the outrageous Hopelezz family meet every Thursday for a night of wacky fun and wild dancing. Oddballs and outcasts, amazing DJs and a plethora of drag queens, drag kids and drag things who’ll fight it out for their right to the stage. Dress up, dress down or don’t dress at all and get in for free.

BEAR NECESSITY This regular party night for men with beards and body hair is an attitude-free event for real men to meet, socialise and dance in a relaxed atmosphere. DJs spin progressive, underground tracks with a focus on quality music, leagues away from floor-fillers and commercial hits. 5 OCTOBER PANAMA

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Clubbing

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48 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

All night long Vinyl purists and techno aficionados AnD can be relied on to deliver a blazing set of techno sounds. Hailing from Manchester and dedicated to analogue production, the pair are known to push tracks into a more melodic mode without ever compromising their raw, dynamic sound. Not only have they attracted a devoted base of fans eager to hit the dance floor hard, but they’ve also been releasing tracks that resonate with their audience. 5 OCTOBER, MARKTKANTINE

Kompakt Label @ Marktkantine

erman record label Kompakt has been championing electronic music for over 20 years. If you’re a fan, you won’t want to miss this massive night of diverse electronic music as part of ADE’s 2019 programme. From experimental house to minimal techno, the label is home to a solid

range of acts covering the gamut of dance music today. Here’s your chance to catch Nicky Elisabeth, Pachanga Boys, Weval, Gui Boratto and others. The big night concludes with a set by label head Michael Mayer with Roman Flügel. 19 OCTOBER, MARKTKANTINE

ZER00’S HEROES

KRAAK & SMAAK

AFRICAN ACID IS FUTURE

Step back in time to the beginning of the millennium when kids rocked Nokias, and Britney, Outkast and The White Stripes ruled the airwaves. Zer00’s Heroes celebrates the best pop, indie, dance and urban music from the era.

With their eclectic mix of house, disco and funk hitting the right note, it’s little wonder that Kraak & Smaak have six albums under their belt and fans across the globe. They’ve also remixed tracks for Moby, Jamiroquai and others.

If you like your techno fused with afro beats and your house riddled with cosmic rhythms, you may like African Acid is Future. It’s all about acid trips on afro rhythms that span African nations, including Nigeria, Ethiopia, Congo and Ghana.

14 SEPTEMBER, MELKWEG

16 OCTOBER, MELKWEG

19 OCTOBER, BRET

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Unfolding over two big nights at the Ziggo Dome, Our Story celebrates 15 years of the Belgian electronic dance music festival Tomorrowland. 17-18 OCTOBER, ZIGGO DOME

Just Her

utch DJ Dimitri was a trailblazer back in the day when he was resident at Amsterdam’s Trouw and Richter, not to mention the infamous Roxy and his legendary High-Tech Soul Movement on Thursday nights. His mixing techniques were innovative and bold, and he was one of the first DJs to blend house with breakbeat and drum ’n base. He’s still going strong after 30 years, and, as if to prove a point, will be delivering a blistering 15-hour set at Thuishaven.

7 SEPTEMBER, THUISHAVEN

Dimitri

It’s always been about the music for Claire Spooner, AKA Just Her. A major force in underground electronic music, the in-demand DJ, producer and musician is also known as an accomplished songwriter and engineer extraordinaire. Catch her deep and melodic house and techno grooves as part of Get Frisky at ADE. 17 OCTOBER, CLUBNL

ADE Sound Lab ADE Sound Lab is a three-day conference where a range of masterclasses, workshops, talks about music, listening sessions and writing camps take place. Geared towards aspiring producers, DJs, vocalists and music lovers, this engaging programme has sound, creativity and technology at its core. 16-19 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

HOUSE RULES

OMG – AIR AMSTERDAM

Escape’s Friday night House Rules is all about house music. Go back to the roots of house with grooves influenced by the Chicago sound played by Dutch DJs and international guest DJs. Spectacular light shows and special effects await.

OMG at AIR Amsterdam is all about extending the weekend for as long as possible. This regular Sunday party night is big on the best hip-hop and R&B tunes. Why not dress up and head out for a night to remember? SUNDAYS, AIR AMSTERDAM

FRIDAYS, ESCAPE

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Behind the ballet Build a boat

ere’s an event that’s always on point. Ever wondered what happens behind the scenes at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet? Find out during this free open house, with workshops, demonstrations about how the costumes and wigs are made, and a tour of the impressive backstage. There will also be performances by Dutch National Ballet, the Junior Company, the Choir of Dutch National Opera and a few soloists. Pirouette are you waiting for?

Kids aged six and up can register to learn how to make a model ship at the Rijksmuseum. Begin by touring the collection of approximately 1,800 model ships and maritime objects, most of which came from the Department of the Navy in the 1880s. Once you’ve seen some best-in-class examples, try your hand at building your own boat that you can then take home and put on proud display – a little piece of the Rijks in your living room.

14 SEPTEMBER, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

20-27 OCTOBER, TEEKENSCHOOL RIJKSMUSEUM

HALLOWEEN All Hallows’ Eve in Amsterdam is frightfully fun! Many houses dole out candy to costumed trickor-treaters and there are parties galore to get your kids into the spooky spirit, from an annual bash at the Hard Rock Cafe to Amsterdam Mamas’ Spooktacular Parade that usually winds through Beatrix Park.

LANTERN PARADE On Sint Maarten, children stroll through the streets brandishing homemade lanterns, knocking on doors and serenading their neighbours in return for candy and fruit. As part of the celebration, there is a lantern parade that begins at 6 pm at the Koninginneweg entrance of Vondelpark.

31 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

11 NOVEMBER, VONDELPARK

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Museum Kidsweek

Splash and play

13-28 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

VARIOUS DATES, JEUGDLAND

During one week in October, museums host events for kids designed to help them better understand the exhibitions. There will be more than 400 educational activities on offer, with games that are so much fun the children won’t even realise they’re learning about Dutch history and culture.

During September, Sport4Kidz hosts water games and outdoor activities at Jeugdland in Oost. Kids aged six or older who have an A diploma in swimming can join the aquatic fun with raft building, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, swimming and water sports, and learn survival skills such as navigation, archery and making a campfire. Visit kidsproof.nl for more.

Open Monuments Day

National Archaeology Days

The annual Open Monuments Day casts open the doors of important buildings, monuments and private homes to the public, all free of charge. You can also take advantage of the fantastic programme of walks, boat and cycling tours, lectures and activities for younger audiences.

14-15 SEPTEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Amstelveen art fest

This annual film, television and new-media festival has a wide variety of screenings and activities tailored to kids. Children aged between three and 14 can watch new, unusual films and television shows and meet the creators of these high-quality productions. They can also explore the MediaLab, an exhibition of interactive art installations, workshops, games and apps. 19-25 OCTOBER, WESTERGASFABRIEK

29 SEPTEMBER, SCHOUWBURG AMSTELVEEN

14 NOVEMBER, DAM SQUARE

11-13 OCTOBER, NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGY DAYS FOUNDATION

Cinekid Festival

This big party at Schouwburg Amstelveen invites kids to come dressed up as a fire fighter, police officer or doctor as part of this year’s Emergency Services theme. Kids aged two-12 can participate in workshops, watch a puppet show, get their faces painted, draw and do crafts.

TURN ON THE LIGHTS Watch the city light up with the illumination of hundreds of thousands of energy-efficient LED lights on the façade of the majestic de Bijenkorf building, followed by a glittering fireworks display that ushers Amsterdam into the holiday season.

During one weekend in October, there will be hundreds of archaeological activities and events set up across the Netherlands to inspire budding Indiana Joneses and Lara Crofts. Through a series of talks, workshops, events and excavations, you’ll unearth Dutch history and get a glimpse of the storied past that lies right beneath the surface.

SINTERKLAAS ARRIVES Every November, Sinterklaas (Santa’s counterpart in the Netherlands) travels from his home in Spain to the Netherlands, bringing presents and special treats for the children. The day after he arrives, he takes part in a colourful parade through Amsterdam, travelling by boat and horseback. Children line the route to wave at Sint and his friends, as traditional sweets rain down upon them. Visit sintinamsterdam.nl for the route. 17 NOVEMBER, CITY-WIDE

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City Guide

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

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West Noord Oost Walking Tour Zuid

Museum Het Schip

Discover the history of Amsterdam School architecture at this monumental museum in the Spaarndammerbuurt. The block of uniquely twisting brickwork was originally built by Michel de Klerk as a prime example of what social housing could be; and now, after recent renovations, visitors can also explore a refurbished apartment from the 1920s during a guided tour (in English at 3pm, daily).

OOSTZAANSTRAAT 45 HETSCHIP.NL

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West

54 | text: TEXT Karin AND Engelbrecht PHOTOS: LILY HEATON

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Beer lovers unite! Close out the summer with assorted brews and live music during TAPT (20-21 September) in Rembrandtpark.

Rebirth Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the central Canal Ring. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shopping and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants.

Westerpark and Spaarndammerbuurt

In 2003, the former gas factory at Westergasfabriek was refurbished into a cultural hotspot with plenty of bites and booze on offer. Today, this industrial site is an eco-friendly leisure zone where locals and visitors eat, drink and dance. It’s easy to spend an entire day here – start with breakfast at De Bakkerswinkel, knock back pints and burgers at local favourite Brouwerij Troost, or sit on

embroidered cushions and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and flavourful Algerian cuisine at Raïnaraï. Even with a full belly, there’s plenty to do – watch a film at art-house cinema Het Ketelhuis, dance to live music at Westergastheater, or play old-school arcade games at TonTon Club. Throughout the year, Westergasterrein is home to a variety of cultural festivities. This season, many will flock to check out the Unseen Photo Fair (20-22 September), Amsterdam Wine Festival (27-29 September), and the Sieraad Art Fair (7-10 November). Situated behind the train tracks running parallel to the park, the Spaarndammerbuurt is a lively, up-and-coming district. Don’t expect to find Golden Age mansions around here. Instead, terraced row houses fill the space, many with nods to an Art

INSIDER TIP

‘One of my favourite places in West is Flora: it’s located in a perfectly hidden park with a large beer terrace. They serve tasty Mexican food and the elote (grilled corn) tacos are great!’ Ren Phillips, graphic artist (@rentinart)

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West 56 | HIPSTER HEAVEN

Oud-West

Mixing residential homes with hotspots and concept shops, two shopping streets – the bustling Kinkerstraat and ever-developing De Clercqstraat – run parallel, stretching from east to west. Along the way, try Hendricks for happy hour, Bar Karakter for unlimited wings, Stacked T’s for brunch, or tuck into quiet Bilderdijkpark for spicy tacos at Flora.

Meanwhile, Bilderdijkstraat flows north to south, pumping energy into in the vibrant Oud-West (Old West), full of more bars, restaurants and boutiques. Situated next to the local and beloved Ten Katemarkt, a diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available in and around De Hallen. This historic tram depot turned cultural-community centre is complete with a library, cinema, hotel, and their ever-popular food hall. If shopping is on your radar, don’t miss a walk along Jan Pieter Heijestraat. Conveniently near Vondelpark, this stylish shopping street features dozens of chic boutiques, cosy cafés and delicious eateries spanning between Overtoom and Kinkerstraat.

Little Plant Pantry

This health-food store and deli offers organic, bulk items and minimal consumerism at its finest. Ditch the plastic of mainstream groceries and scoop your own dry goods (herbs, beans, looseleaf tea, granola and more). Then, sip a homemade kombucha or sit down for lunch in their garden to enjoy ‘food that your grandmother would make if she was vegan’.

Deco aesthetic. Other buildings like Museum Het Schip have thick, sculptural brickwork in the Amsterdam School style. Along the main shopping street (Spaarndammerstraat) locals and yuppies mix to enjoy trendy additions such as gastropub Cafe de Walvis, veggie-rooted gourmet restaurant Morris & Bella, or the temporary location of artistically delicious BAUT (before it rotates to another location around town).

BOSBOOM TOUSSAINTSTRAAT 45 LITTLEPLANTPANTRY.COM

BoLo and De Baarsjes

As Amsterdam’s western expansion continues, visitors are encouraged to explore further into Bos en Lommer

For more information on Amsterdam West check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

J&B Craft Drinks

Lokaal Edel

Housed in a refurbished 1920s craft school, this restaurant and bar in De Baarsjes offers a great selection and canal-side seating from midday till late night. Pair drinks with dishes like white asparagus with hollandaise sauce or frozen stroopwafel with salted caramel. Need more? Attend one of their infamous, wild parties the last Friday of each month. POSTJESWEG 1, LOKAALEDEL.NL

With more than 100 types of beer, cider, soda and kombucha, there’s a little something for everyone. Rotating drinks from local and international makers, J&B’s stock is refrigerated and ready to go. Pick up a cold brew on your way to the park, put together a six-pack to sample at home, or stop by for their monthly tasting parties. JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 148 FACEBOOK.COM/JBCRAFTDRINKS

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COnScIoUs sHoPpInG rOuTe

Restaurant Freud

CONSCIOUS SHOPPING

As one of the greenest cities in Europe, it’s no surprise that Amsterdam’s local shops follow suit with a socially conscious mindset. Begin your journey along the charming Jan Pieter Heijestraat. Stop into Loenatix (1) for Amsterdam-inspired designs at this sustainable screen-printing company. Then, make your way towards the bustling Kinkerstraat and pop into Gekaapt (2) to shop unique gifts and stylish home goods. Pause for a healthy lunch at SOIL (3) further up the street, before heading back over to Beeldend Gesproken (4), an affordable art store located in De Hallen. Cross over into De Baarsjes to nibble a crunchy cookie or healthy snack at Koeckebackers (5) before checking out MidWest (6), a community centre located in a 1920s schoolhouse. Trek to Westerpark and stock up on rainbow-wrapped sweets at the colourful Tony’s Chocolonely (7) flagship store. Then, stop to say ‘Hallo!’ to the animals at Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen (8), before rounding up the day with a Mediterranean dinner at socially conscious Freud (9).

Gebrouwen door Vrouwen At this taproom, you’ll find exactly what the name suggests – tasty beers ‘brewed by women’. With 12 rotations flowing on tap (and distinctive ingredients like spicy ginger, sweet strawberry and salty seaweed) order a flight to sample them all. Then soak up the booze with yummy bites like Asian chicken skewers and creamy burrata salad. JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 119 GEBROUWENDOORVROUWEN.NL

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West 58 | HIPSTER HEAVEN

(known by locals as BoLo) and De Baarsjes. The areas formerly known as the ‘Wild West’ have undergone rapid gentrification. What was once farmland now hosts a growing number of hip and happening cafés, concept shops and bars along the Jan Evertsenstraat. Peruse houseplants and urban garden accessories at De Balkonie, or drink a cat-puccino at Kopjes, the first cat café in Amsterdam. Sip a strong brew with digital nomads at White Label Coffee, or watch the world go by while having lunch on the canal-side terrace at Radijs. Curious for different flavours? Pick up authentic Surinamese dishes like smoked chicken and bami at The

Pom Bar. This family-run spot even puts their own South American spin on bitterballen (fried bar snacks). Once you’ve reached the spacious Mercatorplein, keep an eye out for the rust-orange dome of Cafe Zurich. Their terrace is lucky enough to have sunshine all day long. Inside, the comfy, round interior boasts a menu that keeps visitors satisfied from lunchtime through dinner. Further down the way, Rembrandtpark is the neighbourhood green space. Although in autumn the picnic parties have ended, visitors can still enjoy a walk through the dense, tree-lined park, which should be full of golden leaves at this time of year.

INSIDER TIP

‘I love discovering local spots to share on my English radio show. Branie is a new Asian-fusion restaurant along Ten Katestraat with the dishes inspired by the founders’ Indonesian roots. There’s a relaxed vibe, amazing cocktails and the tataki is delicious – I could eat mountains of it!’ Maxine Penny, PR (@freshhhconnections) and radio host (@broadcastamsterdam)

Bar Kantoor Whether or not you’re a workaholic, kick back and unwind at this ‘Office Bar’. Take a seat on their large terrace overlooking the Westergasterrein and watch the sun set with a cocktail in hand. Inside this wind-powered restaurant, upcycled office decor, a hydroponic herb wall and menu featuring local, organic ingredients all pay homage to their ethos of sustainability. HAARLEMMERWEG 8 BARKANTOOR.NL

Dappermarkt

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Noord

Discover up-and-coming artists and performances at the Affordable Art Fair (31 October-3 November), highlighting artworks at 50+ locations across the city.

THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Amsterdam Noord offers diverse entertainment and bohemian flair, just steps from the water’s edge.

Other Side

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as its many new developments. Gone are the days of grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art, cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and explore. For the fastest route, exit the Buiksloterweg ferry and step into a wide, riverside promenade leading visitors to a variety of amusements. The sleek, modern Eye Filmmuseum features exhibitions and movies with a restaurant and waterfront terrace. Take in a bird’s-eye view from the top of the A’DAM Tower, where thrillseekers dare to swing from the edge of the rooftop – For more the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 information on metres up. Alternatively, take the ferry over to Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood NDSM Wharf, home to an old shipping dockyard Guide on our website: turned vibrant cultural centre with assorted eatiamsterdam.com/ eries and a full agenda of unorthodox activities. neighbourhoods

Kost en Inwoning

INSIDER TIP

‘Explore Noord with a unique party at Sexyland, cosy movies at FC Hyena, or roll through Skatepark Noord. Stop at Klaproos pizza and you’ll be set for the night. ’

As Noord continues to grow, a variety of new spots have popped up along the recently revamped Van der Pekstraat market street. Inside this adorably quaint concept shop, the fresh, light interior displays assorted home goods, stationary, candles and other darling gifts. VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 129 KOSTENINWONING.NL

Pompet

Take a short bike ride from the IJ Ferry to enjoy this family-friendly café-restaurant hidden in the Noorderpark. With a sizable terrace and lush, green surroundings, it’s a great spot for lunch, dinner or drinks and borrelhapjes (fried snacks).

Maru Asmellash, co-founder The New Originals (@theneworiginals.eu)

FLORAPARKWEG 1 POMPET.NL

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Oost

Valtifest (7 September) at Kaap Oost is an over-the-top feast for the senses complete with wild costumes, acid-house beats and lots of neon glitter.

60 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Full of expansive green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while still retaining its unique charm.

Melting Pot

enture over the River Amstel to Oost (East), where a diverse population is evident in both its residents and its architectural styles. Find grand 19th-century designs in Oud-Oost (Old East) and modern high-rise flats along the Eastern Docklands. Home to a melange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside plenty of trendy additions. The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where shoppers and vendors have haggled over fruits, flowers and fabrics for the last century. Hungry explorers will find everything from beers to bao buns and (coffee) beans at spots like Louie Louie, Happyhappyjoyjoy and Coffee Bru. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terrace at Brouwerij ’t IJ, the local brewery famously housed in a windmill. For more Further east, Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ’t Nieuwe information on Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room. Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Near the leafy Oosterpark, the monumental Tropenmuseum Guide on our website: houses a collection of anthropological treasures collected iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods during the heyday of Dutch colonial exploration. INSIDER TIP

Mr. & Mrs. Watson

Delicious flavours mix with fresh textures at this delightful restaurant with a vegan twist. Munch on a healthy tempeh banh mi or vegan cheese board for lunch, or bite into a vegan Philly Cheesesteak for dinner, complete with one (or a few) of their signature cocktails or a plant-based milkshake. LINNAEUSKADE 3 WATSONSFOOD.COM

Running through the multicultural heart of Oost, this open-air market has been a neighbourhood staple since it was designated a market street in 1910. As one of the busiest markets in the city, hundreds of vendors sell everything from exotic ingredients to everyday groceries, textiles and, of course, tulips when they’re in season. DAPPERSTRAAT DAPPERMARKT.NL

Dappermarkt

‘The Tropenmuseum is my favourite because they have unique exhibitions about different cultures. I recently saw a showcase of African fashion and fabrics and I loved the stunning colours and prints!’ Elisa Hupkes, fashion model and editorial assistant (@elisa.hupkes)

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Watergraafsmeer

WALKING TOUR | 61

Take a walk on the East side Ever since the Golden Age, this expansive residential district of Amsterdam Oost has catered to those looking for a tranquil escape from the busy city centre.

&Klevering Oost 

Vibrant pops of colour fill the interior at this funky, design-focused boutique. This local favourite (with multiple locations throughout the city) sells charming accessories, gifts and homeware by Dutch and international brands. MIDDENWEG 38 KLEVERING.COM

Lemonade 

Discover unique clothes, toys, accessories and room decor in every colour of the rainbow at this delightful concept shop for young fashionistas.

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Bar Restaurant 1900 

Situated on a scenic square, sit outside on their corner terrace as cyclists pass by or head inside to enjoy the cosy, Parisian-style interior. This neighbourhood pub is a gathering spot that serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails from Tuesdays to Saturdays.

MIDDENWEG 46, MYLEMONADE.NL

HOGEWEG 48 BARRESTAURANT1900.NL

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 Vergulden Eenhoorn 

RINGDIJK 58 VERGULDENEENHOORN.NL

Park Frankendael 

The land surrounding Amsterdam’s last remaining 17th-century estate has been repurposed into a neighbourhood park well known for its gastronomic delights. At De Kas (restaurantdekas.com), the locally sourced fare is grown and served inside a greenhouse while slow-food mecca Merkelbach (restaurantmerkelbach.nl) serves guests in a historic coach house. Still hungry? The PureMarkt (puremarkt.nl) takes over with dozens of local vendors on the last Sunday of each month.

In 1702, the Gilded Unicorn was a historic farmhouse nestled along the Ringdijk canal. Today, this restaurant serves diverse dishes like Moroccan taktouka and Indonesian gado-gado, as well as drinks, teas and coffees. On sunny days, enjoy an oasis from the busy city in their hidden garden, which is also home to a small bed and breakfast.

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Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

62 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan flair.

Gold Star

ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way through the Rijksmuseum tunnel. Exit directly onto Museumplein (Museum Square) where the view may feel slightly amiss without the iconic I amsterdam letters that have been moved across town. Explore a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized artworks. With elegant streets and stately mansions, it’s clear that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. The glitzy P.C. Hooftstraat caters to affluent clientele who find delight in couture brands, while more high-end boutiques can be found along the Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat. Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp, is a quirky residential neighbourhood full of hotspots and concept shops. Pick up picnic bites and souvenirs or taste a fresh, handmade stroopwafel (Dutch caramel waffle cookie) at the bustling Albert Cuyp Market.

Museum Tramway

‘As fashion designers, we often roam the city seeking new inspiration. We like to stop in for authentic Israeli food at Neni. There’s always a wonderful mix of people peacefully co-existing here and this perfectly resembles the vision of our own brand.’ Diek van der Plas and Anyah Sealey, founders of OMNIÅ (@omnia_worldwide)

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AMSTELVEENSEWEG 264 MUSEUMTRAMLIJN.ORG

INSIDER TIP

Since 1897, electronic trams have zig-zagged across Amsterdam helping to move locals around the city in a labyrinthine route of over 80 kilometres. Step back in time on a vintage tram, take a seat on varnished teak, and hitch a ride though the city. Tours run every Sunday until 27 October, beginning at the lovely, historic Haarlemmermeer Station.

Cavateria: Holy Spanish Food

As the name suggests, cava and sangria flow in abundance at this new addition to Oud-Zuid. Serving sinfully delicious tapas with a modern twist like piping hot garlic shrimp, spicy patatas bravas, and crispy chorizo croquettes. CORNELIS KRUSEMANSTRAAT 15 CAVATARIA.NL

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For sale at the Rijksmuseum shop: Frans Banninck Cocq and Lieutenant Willem van Ruytenburch in miniature!

ADVERTORIAL I

Operation Night Watch See the restoration project of ‘The Night Watch’ as the Rijksmuseum undertakes its most ambitious conservation operation yet.

he Rijksmuseum has just launched a cutting-edge research project into one of its most famous paintings, Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’. With military precision, Operation Night Watch will unfold in full public view as conservators and scientists work in a specially designed glass chamber made by French architect Jean Michel Wilmotte. The aim of the project is to ensure the long-term preservation of the painting, resulting in a plan for the painting’s restoration into the future. During the Operation Night Watch project, the painting will remain on public display. Making use of the latest and most advanced research techniques, including digital imaging, computer science and artificial intelligence, the study will provide insight into the painting’s fascinat-

ing history over the past four centuries. Throughout the research, the painting will be unframed and placed on a specially designed easel, allowing researchers to get up close and study every detail of the entire canvas. That’s quite a feat, as the canvas measures around 3.8 metres tall by just over 4.5 metres wide.

Eyes on the future

A key aspect of the research is the use of technology, which will be used to determine the condition of the painting live on site. High-resolution photography combined with macro X-ray fluorescence (macro-XRF) scanning and hyperspectral imaging will shed light on Rembrandt’s painting process. Every square millimetre of the ‘The Night Watch’ will be scanned. Over the course of the research, some

12,500 high-resolution photographs will be taken – a first for such a large painting. The high-quality images are expected to reveal details normally invisible to the naked eye.

The Night Watch in a snapshot

Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’ is one of the world’s most famous works of art. The painting is the property of the City of Amsterdam, and it is the heart of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, where it is admired by more than two million visitors each year. ‘The Night Watch’ is the Netherland’s foremost national artistic showpiece, and a must-see for tourists. Follow updates on Operation Night Watch via rijksmuseum.nl/nightwatch and social media, or visit the Rijksmuseum in person to experience this fascinating project firsthand.

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Het HEM Home for contemporary culture

by ferry from Amsterdam Central in 30 minutes

RATE YOUR EXPERIENCE AND WIN! scan here

SMS ‘magazine’ to +31(0)6 35 250055 or go to survey.iamsterdam.com/magazine

Departure: 17:00 18:00 19:00 20:00 21:00 22:00 23:00 Het HEM Thursday to Sunday Noon to midnight

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Warmperserij 1 Zaandam www.hethem.nl

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Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area

66 70 71 72 73 75 76

Castles & Gardens Haarlem Old Holland Zaandam Amstelveen Day Trips with Kids Further Afield

Castle Muiderslot

The magical Muiderslot castle in Muiden is more than 700 years old, making it one of the oldest and best-preserved castles in the Netherlands. Adding to its fairy-tale charm are its beautiful gardens. A guided tour of the castle is included in the entrance fee, and there are several walking routes through the grounds. The castle organises special activities for younger visitors, and until the end of October you might also find the resident falconer and his birds of prey around the grounds. MUIDERSLOT.NL

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Castles & Gardens TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND VICKY HAMPTON

Explore Gooi & Vecht Nicknamed the Garden of Amsterdam, or Castles & Gardens region, the Gooi & Vecht area is a rich oasis of nature, water and history – just a stone’s throw from the cities of Amsterdam, Utrecht and Almere.

his lush, green area is home to many attractions, with the Dutch media capital of Hilversum in its booming centre. Within a short distance from each other, you’ll find the majestic River Vecht, the lively Loosdrecht Lakes, the scenic Lake Naarden and the stately old estates in ’s-Graveland. The Gooi Nature Reserve’s extensive heathlands and forests are stunning all year round, but especially in autumn, when the foliage changes colour and the landscape turns into a palette of warm hues. The picturesque, historic villages of Laren and Blaricum have a long history of inspiring artists from all over the country. History buff ? Don’t miss out on the strongholds and fortified towns of Naarden, Muiden and Weesp, some of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites. And let’s not forget the area’s characteristic old harbour of Huizen. Just a short train ride from the centre of Amsterdam, Gooi & Vecht’s combination of cultural highlights and enchanting nature make for a perfect day trip to explore one of the most beautiful parts of the Netherlands.

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2 CLASS

18 12-20 with until 31- t required Valid ou ery trip in and Check rrier on ev each ca

AYM 1STD ERDA N

IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Weesp

Weesp lies in the heart of the Vechtstreek – a lush green region known for its natural beauty, castles, parks and stately homes. As one of the Netherlands’ 14 fortified towns, Weesp dates to the 14th century and is home to hundreds of historic monuments, as well as architectural gems including three windmills, two spectacular forts and an array of magnificent houses. After a day exploring the city, head to one of its picturesque restaurants, such as the tree-filled Cafe diner ‘t Weesperplein or the waterside Eeterij de Schalkse. VVVGOOIVECHT.NL

INSIDER TIP

‘Naarden-Vesting is one of my favourite places in the Gooi area. It’s a cosy fortress town with a lot of history. The beautiful buildings and small boutiques coupled with nice restaurants and cafés make Naarden-Vesting absolutely worth a visit!’ Fortress town of Naarden

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Susanne Vredenduin (28), estate agent living in Bussum

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Castles & Gardens 68 | HERITAGE NATURE

Pampus Island

For a family-friendly and historic day out from Amsterdam, hop on a ferry and discover the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Fort Pampus. This island fort was once part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, and before that the waters acted as a base for trading ships laden with spices, tea and silk from the Dutch East Indies. Pampus has an extensive events calendar and plenty of activities to keep the kids entertained for the day. PAMPUS.NL

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Belle van Zuylen (Isabelle de Charrière) was a former inhabitant of Slot Zuylen.

Cycle the River Vecht

The best way to explore Gooi & Vecht is the Dutch way: by bike! Travel to Breukelen by train (30 minutes from Amsterdam Centraal) and hire a bike at Age van ’t Hoff 2-wielers (agevanthoff.nl). • Cycle along the River Vecht and be impressed by Nyenrode Castle, a 13thcentury Dutch castle and estate. • Take a break at the Geesberge country estate for a delicious lunch or a cup of coffee. • In the village of Maarssen, pass the Doornburgh estate – a former monastery, now being redeveloped as a centre for art and science. • Close to the city hall, board the Fietsboot, a hop-on/hop-off bike ferry which runs until 23 September. Admire the beautiful country estates by boat until you reach Slot Zuylen.

Gooisch Beer Festival

When it comes to brewing beer, it’s hard to beat the Dutch. And the Gooi & Vecht area has its own unique beers by the Gooische Bierbrouwerij (Gooische Beer Brewery). Swing by Hilversum to taste them yourself during the Gooisch Beer Festival on 15 September. The square will be filled with food trucks and an abundance of locally sourced specialty beers to try.

GOOISCHBIERFESTIVAL.NL

Slot Zuylen

Just outside Utrecht, Slot Zuylen is one of the oldest castles along the River Vecht. The castle has a rich history, passing through various families and boasting some influential inhabitants – including several powerful women, like the writer Belle van Zuylen (Isabelle de Charrière). Admission to the castle museum is by guided tour only, which lasts around 75 minutes. Reservation is recommended. SLOTZUYLEN.NL

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Haarlem 70 | CANALS, CULTURE & CUISINE

Amsterdam’s Nearest Neighbour

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Amsterdam’s closest neighbour and a city of remarkable history and culture, Haarlem packs a unique punch. With spectacular monuments, art, great shopping and a wealth of dining options, a visit to the city guarantees an autumnal day out to remember.

Beer in a church

No trip to Haarlem is complete without a visit to former-churchturned-brewery Jopenkerk, which brews and serves the best ‘real Haarlem’ beers on site. And don’t worry about the time: trains back to Amsterdam run till past 1 am. If you decide to stay, the city also has plenty of affordable hotel options.

JOPENKERK, JOPENKERK.NL

Built in 1849, Cruquius pumping station is a unique industrial monument. The steam-powered pumps were used to pump Lake Haarlemmermeer dry, marking the breakthrough of the Industrial Revolution in the Netherlands and leaving behind only the flat polder landscape. The pump was decommissioned in 1933 and is now on display in a museum where interactive exhibits explain the history of reclaimed land and Dutch water management.

Virtuoso! Israels to Armando

The ‘Golden Streets’

This exhibition (until 3 November) celebrates the virtuoso artists who weren’t afraid to experiment with form and texture, creating dynamic works that inspired later artists – think Israels, Appel and Schwartze. FRANS HALS MUSEUM, FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL © MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

Cruquius pumping station

HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM DE CRUQUIUS, HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

Haarlem has been voted the Netherlands’ best shopping destination several times, offering everything from cool concept stores to traditional markets and independent labels. In fact, it’s no wonder that Haarlemmers call their shopping district de Gouden Straatjes (golden streets). Perhaps the best-known streets in Haarlem are Grote Houtstraat, Barteljorisstraat and Zijlstraat, but don’t miss the chance to explore the smaller streets, which feature unique, specialist stores.

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Old Holland

TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Cheese, Windmills and More With its countless windmills, churches and old-fashioned farmhouses, visiting Old Holland can feel like stepping into a Dutch Golden Age painting. An autumnal day might be the perfect time to visit the region’s spectacular destinations.

Edam

Cheese is the first thing that springs to mind when most people think of Edam, and with good reason: this charming town produces a brand of cheese that’s beloved by foodies around the world. (Don’t be fooled by the rubbery imitations you may have tried abroad; real Edam cheese is creamy and full of flavour.) A walk around the town reveals exquisite architecture, history and a friendly atmosphere. Head to the Edam Museum to journey into the life of a merchant from the Dutch Golden Age, and get your dairy fix at the Kaaswaag (cheese weigh house), where you can see a permanent exhibition on the art of making cheese, and of course taste a sample or several. VVVEDAMVOLENDAM.NL

Scooter Experience, Landsmeer

Zuiderzeemuseum

Enkhuizen’s Zuiderzeemuseum tells the stories of the people who once made the shores of the Zuiderzee their home. As you wander among the exhibits you can practically see, hear, taste and smell their everyday lives next to the Zuiderzee as it was before the major Afsluitdijk dam transformed it into Lake IJsselmeer in 1932. Focusing on the themes of water, crafts and communities, historic buildings, ever-changing exhibitions and fascinating ephemera from the past make this a day trip from Amsterdam that won’t disappoint. ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM.NL

Head to Landsmeer’s Scooter Experience to hop on a rental e-scooter and discover all the wonders Old Holland has to offer. You can take a guided tour on your new ride to the region’s numerous attractions, such as traditional fishing village Volendam and the windmills of Zaanse Schans. Or even step back in time to experience the atmosphere of authentic Dutch villages such as Durgerdam, Ransdorp and Broek in Waterland. SCOOTEREXPERIENCE.NL

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Zaandam

31-12-2018 Valid until uired with and out req Check in r on every trip each carrie

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& REGIOEN TRAV L TICKET

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Discover the Hembrugterrein Once a hub for the production of ammunition and weaponry, Zaandam’s Hembrugterrein has been transformed into a hangout for hipsters and a cultural centre where art and creativity abound. Take a trip north and discover one of the Amsterdam area’s most exciting new destinations.

BIND

Located in an old transformer building on the Hembrug site and built by volunteers, BIND offers a retreat to unwind and enjoy spending time with friends and strangers while perhaps exploring something new. As a ‘living laboratory’ for new projects, you might just stumble across some music, poetry, storytelling or art taking place at BIND when you visit. BIJBIND.NL

Museum of Humanity

The result of a dream that photographer Ruben Timman had in 2001, the Museum of Humanity features dozens of portraits he’s shot of people all over the world. A visit to this startling, thought-provoking institution poses questions about the nature of art, culture and even what it means to be human. The museum is only open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. MUSEUMOFHUMANITY.NL

Het HEM

Lab-44

Het HEM is a former munitions factory which has been redeveloped into a hip cultural hub featuring multidisciplinary art programmes, a restaurant and a music bar in the basement programmed by Orpheu The Wizard. Every three months, a new artist residency will help write another ‘chapter’ in Het HEM's story, and there’ll be an ever-changing line-up of events focusing on everything from the visual arts to dance, music, theatre and philosophy.

Whether relaxing on its sunny terrace or taking shelter in the industrialist interior, Lab-44 offers an experience designed to linger long in the memory (and mouth). As well as a brasserie menu featuring Dutch classics and international cuisine, there are also specialist pizzas which are spun straight onto your plate from the Italian-made Valoriani oven and special beers from local breweries Hoop and Breugem. If you want to get your hands doughy (not dirty), then Lab-44 also offers pizza workshops.

HETHEM.NL

LAB-44.NL

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Amstelveen

AUTUMN FESTIVALS

Multiculturalism at Its Finest

As the second-greenest city in the Netherlands, Amstelveen offers plenty of options for recreation and entertainment. As well as its outdoor spaces, in autumn the lively city centre hosts a number of vibrant cultural festivals that are well worth the short trip from Amsterdam.

Japan Festival

Explore Japan’s fascinating culture on Amstelveen’s Stadsplein during the city’s free annual Japan Festival. Dance to the beat of traditional Taiko drums, enjoy Japanese cultural performances, and even learn Japanese calligraphy, origami and martial arts during special workshops. Already boasting a bustling Japanese community, Amstelveen is the perfect place to dive into the country’s culture, and perhaps take home a California roll or two.

13 OCTOBER, JAPANFESTIVAL.NL

Diwali Festival

Transforming Amstelveen’s Stadsplein into a Bollywood dream come true, this Indian festival celebrates Diwali – or the festival of lights – and the triumph of good over evil. Expect professional dance and musical performances, amazing food from around the continent, a henna stall, and even a kids’ corner where the little ones can craft their own Indian mementoes. 12 OCTOBER, DIWALIFESTIVAL.NL

Jazz in Het Dorp

A swinging jazz festival that attracts thousands of visitors every year, Jazz in Het Dorp is a one-day event that brings established names and up-and-coming talent in the world of jazz to the city to act as the perfect full stop at the end of the summer holidays. With a focus on offering the stage to young, developing jazz talent, there’s also a range of special children’s performances and great food and drinks. 1 SEPTEMBER, JAZZINHETDORP.NL

Cobra Museum

The Cobra Museum of Modern Art is home to a collection of key works by artists from the avant-garde Cobra art movement. To truly get a sense of the complete spiritual and artistic freedom of the Cobra movement, pay a visit to the Cobra 70: A multi-headed snake exhibition, a retrospective which traces its subversive history, on show until 13 October. COBRA-MUSEUM.NL

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Day Trips with Kids FAMILY OUTINGS

Children of All Ages Welcome! If you're looking for something exciting to do with the whole family, then taking the trip out of Amsterdam and into the surrounding region offers up a wealth of options, whether it's adventuring across the magnificent Dutch countryside or visiting new destinations.

Zandvoort goes Wild!

Zandvoort goes Wild! gives the whole family the chance to witness a truly unique spectacle – as hundreds of fallow deer congregate in the dunes to look for a new mate. The bucks bellow and bell as they battle each other to win the hearts of the hinds, and the air is alive with the loud thuds of antlers hitting antlers. Zandvoort Tourist Information organises special belling walks all throughout October on Saturdays, Sundays and Wednesdays at 3.30 pm, though you’re welcome to traverse the area by yourself.

VVVZANDVOORT.NL/ZANDVOORT-GOES-WILD

Aviodrome

Batavialand

AVIODROME.NL

BATAVIALAND.NL

Lelystad’s Aviodrome aviation museum offers plenty of child-friendly activities that might even inspire your kids to start studying for a pilot’s licence – and with a pilot and cabin crew course right at the museum, they can! Hop in a flight simulator to see what it’s like to take control of an aircraft, or head to the Radio Room to learn how to send signals in Morse code. At the end of the trip, the kids can even take home their very own Aviodrome pilot’s licence.

Give the kids a day out to remember at Batavialand, which celebrates everything nautical and the Dutch nation’s special relationship with water. The main attraction is the magnificent reconstruction of the 17th-century Batavia ship which towers over the wharf, while inside the museum visitors can discover the story of this oncesunken region. Kids get the chance to become engineers or sailors for a day at its interactive exhibits. In fact, they can even construct their own dykes and polders in the museum’s Water Theatre.

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Visit the Wooden Shoe Factory in Marken and buy your very own pair of clogs! Take the ferry from Volendam in 30 minutes or the bus from Amsterdam in 20 minutes. KLOMPENMAKERIJ MARKEN, THISISNL.COM

Dress up, Dutch-style

For lasting memories of your trip to the Netherlands, why not have your photo taken? In Voldendam, the whole family can get kitted out in traditional Dutch costume – including, of course, the typical wooden clogs. Choose your props, strike a pose, and don't forget to say ‘Edam cheese’ as the photographer captures the moment! FOTOINVOLENDAMKOSTUUM.NL

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Further Aﬁeld 76 I YOUR AUTUMN AGENDA

Let’s Get Cultured!

Kröller-Müller Museum in the Hoge Veluwe

With the opening of the cultural season in autumn, there’s plenty going on in the rest of the Netherlands too. All across the country, there are cultural events aplenty to keep you entertained. Here are our pick of the highlights.

The Hoge Veluwe is one of the Netherlands’ largest and most beautiful National Parks. Covering 5,500 hectares of woodland, heath, grasslands and shifting sands, it is a natural habitat for deer, mouflon and wild boar. Inside the park, you can

Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven

Design enthusiasts from all over the world make their way to Eindhoven for the biggest design event in Northern Europe every October. For nine days, Dutch Design Week presents work and ideas dreamt up by 2,600 designers to more than 355,000 visitors from the Netherlands and abroad in 110 locations. Dutch Design Week organises and facilitates exhibitions, lectures prize ceremonies, networking events, debates and festivities – all of which focus on the future. Although every imaginable discipline and aspect of design is showcased during the event, the emphasis is on experimentation, innovation and crossover. Come and be amazed, surprised and inspired.

pick up one of the free white bicycles and pedal to the Kröller-Müller Museum and other attractions. The museum boasts the second-largest Van Gogh collection in the world: almost 90 paintings and over 180 drawings. But equally impressive is the huge sculpture garden, with over 160 sculptures by iconic artists, from Aristide Maillol to Jean Dubuffet, and from Marta Pan to Pierre Huyghe.

19-27 OCTOBER, DDW.NL

ONGOING, KROLLERMULLER.NL

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The catalogue of Thierry Mugler: Couturissime – on display at Kunsthal Rotterdam this autumn.

Thierry Mugler in Rotterdam

This autumn, the Kunsthal Rotterdam presents the first retrospective on French creator Thierry Mugler. This major exhibition will reveal the multiple universes of this artistic figure – visionary couturier, director, photographer and perfumer – in a retrospective of his work, especially his ready-to-wear and haute couture creations. The Thierry Mugler: Couturissime exhibition brings together more than 150 outfits, most of them on display for the first time, created between 1977 and 2014, as well as many never-before seen accessories and stage costumes, clips and videos, archival documents and sketches. A hundred works by the greatest contemporary fashion photographers such as Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goude, David LaChapelle, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Dominique Issermann round out the exhibition. 13 OCTOBER-8 MARCH KUNSTHAL.NL

Young Rembrandt in Leiden Museum De Lakenhal in Leiden presents this retrospective exhibition devoted exclusively to the earliest work of Rembrandt van Rijn. The Young Rembrandt exhibition shows how Rembrandt’s exceptional talent evolved in the period from 1624 to 1634. Special loans from other collections illustrate the first ten years of his career as an artist, in which his evolution can be traced through some 40 paintings, 120 etchings and 20 drawings,

united here for the very first time. Some of these pieces will return to Leiden, the city where Rembrandt was born, after almost 400 years. See how Rembrandt’s talent developed and flourished and look over the young painter’s shoulder. In addition to works by Rembrandt, the exhibition will include works by painters like Lievens, Lastman and Van Swanenburg. 2 NOVEMBER-9 FEBRUARY, LAKENHAL.NL

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Need to Know

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7 pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 10 am-6 pm iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 7 am-10 pm

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USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!):

Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals. STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange. AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels. AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app.

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses with debit or credit card (cash is no longer accepted). To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

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On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘We enjoyed our time at the Stayokay Hostel Stadsdoelen as it’s located right in the centre of Amsterdam. From there we could easily walk around the whole city and take in the atmosphere.’ Diana Manuel (20), student, Amber Boyes (20), care assistant, Kobe Fleming (21), service desk analyst, Average (21), rapper, and Paris Dixon (20), security guard, all from East Midlands, UK ‘Every time we come to Amsterdam we drink a couple of beers at Café Wiener in the Red Light District. It’s a fun place to hang out as there are bras hanging from the ceiling and a nostalgic ’80s vibe!’ Marre Van Der Aa (38), topographer, and Stefan Steenbergen (37), tattoo artist and art teacher, both from Zwolle, the Netherlands ‘Our favourite area is the Nine Streets because you can find so many great vintage clothes stores there.’ Nicholas Cann (27), DJ, Matthew Stratten (28), salon owner, and Monique Cann (30), social worker, all from Sydney, Australia ‘My tip is Blue Amsterdam in Kalverpassage. The food is great, fairly priced, and it’s almost never full as not every tourist goes there.’ Hans Hurnanen (23), gardener from Helsinki, Finland

‘Our tip is to visit the 420 Café on Oudebrugsteeg. It’s a friendly place with good music and helpful staff!’ Emilio Sanchez (39), sales agent from Madrid, Spain, and Carlos Carabantes (34), sales executive from Seville, Spain

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Vicky Hampton contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merritt Gurley, Hallie Engel, Isadora Goudsblom, Jayne Robinson), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam & partners print Corelio Printing ISSN 2589-6717

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What’s on

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Unseen Photo Fair Amsterdam Dance Event Fringe Festival

Around town West insider's guide Castles, gardens and more Day trips with kids

Magazine | The Autumn Issue 2019

Icons of Culture EXCITING NEW OFFERINGS FROM AMSTERDAM’S FIVE-STAR CULTURAL VENUES

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