I amsterdam Magazine Autumn 2020 by amsterdam&partners

What’s on New Nxt Museum Light Festival Beethoven’s Birthday

Around town Beachy walks Discover bohemian Noord Raw industrial culture

Masterpieces of the street AMSTERDA M’S PU B L I C A RT

Vol 3 #3 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE AUTUMN/WINTER 2020

COVER IAM ZONDER RUG AUTUMN20202_1.indd 1

10-09-20 15:15

ARMANI / BOSS / NIKE / MICHAEL KORS / POLO RALPH LAUREN / SAMSONITE / SUITSUPPLY AND MORE

F O R YO U TO D I S C OV E R

T R E AT Y O U R S E L F T O T H E U LT I M AT E D AY O U T 2 5 0 FA S H I O N B R A N D S | U P T O 7 0 % S AV I N G S | O P E N 7 D AY S A W E E K

BATAVIASTAD.COM

BATAVIASTAD.COM COVER IAM ZONDER RUG AUTUMN20202_1.indd 2

FAC EBOOK .COM / BATAV I ASTA D

I N STAG R A M .COM / B ATAV IASTA D

10-09-20 15:15

adv AR

Contents 3

THE STREETS OF AMSTERDAM

emember the times when cities seemed to wage endless losing battles against graffiti? Well, those days are over. Realising that street art by respected artists summons the awe of OUTDOOR ART even spray-painters (and leads to them From sculptures to murals and graffiti to taking their hands off the can’s nozzle), award-winning architecture, there’s so much art the city abandoned its continuous cycle of to be appreciated outdoors in Amsterdam. sandblasting and whitewashing in favour of contracting. It’s been joined by store owners and housing corporations, who have all been commissioning street art in MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY every corner of the city. Surely the fame Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours of Banksy – whose stencilled street or a week, make the most of every hour works now fetch prices in the with our top tips. For more millions – contributed to that information about development. But ever since Amsterdam, his art moved into the musevisit our website: iamsterdam.com ums (the Moco next to the Van WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM Gogh Museum offers a fine The perfect spots for eating out of doors, collection of his work), first-class the chicest winter shopping and comfort street art has exploded in Amsterdam food to get you through the cold season. – from the famous ‘Wake me up when I’m famous’ text painted over a bench in the city’s De Pijp neighbourhood (the most popular selfie spot in town) to the gigantic YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA Anne Frank mural by Eduardo Kobra From eye-opening exhibitions to this year’s gracing the door of the welding shed at the slightly different Amsterdam Dance Event, NDSM shipyard in Noord. there’s always something to do in Amsterdam. Add to that a collection of some 1,400 public sculptures and other works of art commissioned by the city (or placed illeEXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS gally, as in the case of the sculpture ‘Man Attempting To Catch Tram 10’ near the This season, discover hip industrial Noord Leidseplein), and you will be hard-pressed and see our tips for shopping and exploring to see even a fraction of the huge open-air Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods. museum that Amsterdam now is. With Covid-19 restricting the number of visitors to our indoor museums, now is the perfect time to explore the outdoor collections in DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA our streets. Starting on the following page, Hit the beach! Yes, also in winter. Plus: get our cover feature will guide you along. your flower experience at Floriworld and Enjoy our city and stay safe! don’t miss the Week of Industrial Culture.

04 Takin’ it to the Streets

10 Your Trip

13 Eat, Drink & Shop

21 What’s On

33 City Guide

43 Day Trips

INFORMATION ON COVID REGULATIONS PAGE 9, PRACTICAL INFORMATION PAGE 49

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 3

17-09-20 14:01

Autumn

One of the best ways to see street art in Amsterdam is with a knowledgeable and passionate guide to tell you all about the history and underlying philosophy of various works. Alltournative Amsterdam offers a variety of street art tours, including a focused Street Murals Tour of Zuidoost in collaboration with arts organisation R.U.A., and various walking and bike tours of the city’s best outdoor art. Tours range from €15-25, or you could take an interactive, virtual tour from the comfort of your own home for €12.

4 | TEXT: JAYNE XXXXX XXXXXXX ROBINSON

Street art tours

NDSM: home of grafﬁti art

The former docklands across the River IJ have been converted into a lively cultural area that abounds with outdoor art. The giant mural of Anne Frank titled Let me be Myself by Eduardo Kobra smiles down on you the second you step off the ferry (a free service located behind Amsterdam Central Station). Along with countless murals, artists’ residences and studios, the NDSM neighbourhood is famous for graffiti art with new pieces emblazoning sheds and shipping containers almost weekly.

Xxxxxx Xxxxxxxxxx

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 4

17-09-20 14:01

Discover Streetart Frankey's works in unexpected places throughout the city. Keep an eye out, you won’t regret it.

Takin’ it to the Street From sculptures to murals and graffiti to award-winning architecture, there’s so much art to be appreciated outdoors in Amsterdam – if you know where to look.

msterdam’s street art scene is always evolving. Colourful murals with political messages, bold, playful sculptures and tiny hidden works – such as the witty additions of guerrilla artist @streetartfrankey – spring up constantly, created in dialogue with today’s times. Some works have been in place for decades, reacting to the changing cityscape around them. The mysterious blue violinist which appeared on Marnixstraat in the 1980s was only allowed to stay after local residents convinced the City of Amsterdam to leave it in place, but now it is a treasured local landmark. And back in 1986, when New York graffiti artist

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 5

Keith Haring created his large-scale mural in what was then an edgy, industrial outpost of Amsterdam, he’d never have envisioned that his work would be covered up by a metal screen for over two decades. In 2018 it was finally rescued and preserved by the Stedelijk Museum, waking it from its 25-year slumber in the heart of a newly gentrified neighbourhood, De Baarsjes.

Outdoor museum

Outdoor art in Amsterdam can be viewed in a number of ways. You may want to seek it out intentionally: either on your own using a map – like this one on the next page – , on a

Always keep an eye out, you may just spot a masterpiece!

17-09-20 14:01

Autumn 6 | STREET ART AND MORE

guided tour, or as part of an organised event like the ArtZuid sculpture biennial. Or you may prefer to just stumble upon artworks incidentally, noticing them as you go along. Either way, with most outdoor art in Amsterdam sitting anonymously, it helps to be clued up about some of the city’s most notable works. After all, wouldn’t you want to know if you’d stopped to tie your shoelace on an award-winning bridge, or picnicked next to Picasso’s Figure découpée in the Vondelpark? Amsterdam is an ever-changing canvas for artistic expression, and there’s always something new to discover. So remember to keep an eye out next time you’re out and about – you may just spot a masterpiece.

1 Under heaven 02 (Leonard van Munster, 2009): a tropical oasis in a concrete jungle.

2 Let the life size bronze Drie figuren op straat (Three figures on the street, Peter Erftemeijer, 2001) greet you.

3 Bear Orso (Simona Vergani, 1998) guards 2

Erasmuspark.

4 The friendly Paard (Horse, Theresia van

der Pant, 1962) at Hemsterhuisstraat.

5 Twee kinderen (Two kids, 1929) was made by artist Hildo Krop, who is responsible for dozens of sculptures throughout the city.

6 The statue Woutertje Pieterse en Femke (Frits Sieger, 1976), from the book Woutertje Pieterse by Multatuli, stands at the exact spot where the two figures kiss in the story. 4 7 Jordaanzanger (Jordanese singer, Kees

Verkade, 1991) Johnny Jordaan, but also Johnny Meijer, Manke Nelis and ‘mom and dad’ Froger, are traditional singers and true Amsterdam legends.

q 8 When the sculpture exposition in honour

M © FLO RIS VAN HAL

of 100 years Vondelpark ended in 1965, Picasso donated his eight meter high concrete bird Figure découpée to the city.

Grafﬁti fame

Don’t expect to find fine artwork at the Schellingwouderbrug in Oost, the ‘wall of fame’ for graffiti artists ever since the 80s, where graffiti in its most rough and creative form is on show.

9 Some of the most photographed sculptures of the city are the bronze lizards that together form Blauw Jan (Blue Jan, Hans van Houwelingen, 1994).

q Kids love the Hazentafel (Rabbit table, Iris le Rütte, 2006). w The glass and steel Levensboom (Life tree, Angie Abbink, 2015) adds a playful touch to Gijsbrecht van Aemstelpark.

gnomes’ ball has changed hands at any given time.

r Bronze Spinoza (Nicolas Dings, 2008) is decorated with parakeets and sparrows on his long cloak.

t Thousands of archaeological finds, excavated during construction of the metro, are on display in between the escalators at Metrostation Rokin.

y Tile tablet Zeegezicht aan het IJ (Sea e The Huis met de kabouters (House with gnomes, A.C. Boerma, 1884) is famous in the De Pijp neighbourhood. Witness how the

sight at the IJ, Irma Boom) in the bicycle tunnel below Central Station comprises 70,000 hand painted tiles.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 6

17-09-20 14:01

AIDS-monument Living by Numbers, designed by Jean-Michel Othoniel, depicts a giant abacus. The sculpture represents counting down to a future free from AIDS and is a tribute to everyone affected by the disease – caregivers, medical staff, patients and their loved ones.

g 6 y f

7 o

q w

Design agency in60seconds specializes in communicating complex messages via infographics, explanimations and interactive visualisations. in60seconds.nl

i p

u The ‘good boys’ from Dutch author Nescio’s book Titaantjes sit merrily on a bench in Oosterpark. Sculptor Hans Bayens created a new one after the original was stolen in 1985.

Amstelstation is called: De wereldomvattende beteekenis van het spoorwegwezen, en den technischen vooruitgang daarvan (The global meaning of the railways and its technical progress, 1939).

d De Pythonbrug (Python bridge, Adriaan Geuze, 2001) is one of the pedestrian bridges between Borneo-island and Sporenburg, and serves as a beloved swimming spot and diving place.

i With the illuminated letters ‘DOE IETS’ (Do Something, 2011) at Wibautstraat, artist Serge Verheugen urges Amsterdammers to take action.

a The happy Zeeburgerdijk mural (2018)

f Fragment van een huiskamer, verkleind

by duo The London Police shows a contemporary Jeanne d’Arc, sailing through the Amsterdam canals.

naar 88% (Fragment of a living room, reduced to 88%, Mark Manders, 2001) shows two figures on a table which is – not surprisingly – reduced to 88%.

o The bronze Bokkenrijder (Goat riders, Gerrit Bolhuis, 1957) are a reference to a famous Dutch fairytale. p Peter Alma was one of the founders of architectural movement De Stijl from the beginning of the 20th century. His mural in

s Het Bootje van papier (Paper boat, 2007) by Suzanne Willems is made of luminium and steel and measures three by three by five meters.

Right beside Visvrouw (Fishing lady, Karin Beek, 2015) with her bronze fish, there’s fish stall Haring Naatje selling real fish.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 7

17-09-20 14:01

The Street Art Museum offers daily twohour group tours of site-specific works in the Nieuw-West neighbourhood. The works by internationally acclaimed street-artists range from the colossal to the minute.

Autumn

S T R E E TA R T M U S E U M A M S T E R D A M . C O M

8 | STREET ART AND MORE

Multicultural Zuidoost wears its creative heart on its sleeve, in the form of lofty murals painted on the ends of apartment buildings. The colourful works have been appearing on buildings since 2011, thanks to the efforts of street art organisation R.U.A., and a range of international muralists. Central to Zuidoost’s lively art scene is Creative Community Heesterveld – the artists’ residences and studios housed within an iconic building painted in bold zig-zag stripes. This building was home to the first of R.U.A.’s murals, initially intended as a temporary work but allowed to stay after significant lobbying from the local community. It paved the way for other murals to be created.

Every wall’s a canvas

Sculptures in West’s parks

Amsterdam’s parks are filled with eye-catching creations. Don’t miss (you won’t be able to) the supersized puppy sculptures peeking over the bridge on Postjesweg in Rembrandtpark. These playful creatures are the work of Marjolijn Mandersloot. On the Tweede Marnixplantsoen stands The Blue Violin Player, a sculpture which arrived anonymously in the 1980s. Residents convinced the City of Amsterdam to leave it in place after attempts to remove it, and even put a scarf around his neck on cold days.

Apartment buildings surrounding Platanenweg in Amsterdam-Oost were the canvas for ten large-scale murals in 2019. Installed as part of a street art festival, the series titled If these Walls Could Speak are a popular attraction showcasing the talents of both Dutch and international artists.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 8

17-09-20 14:01

Welcome STAY SAFE permitted is limited. Upon entry you will be asked whether you have cold-like symptoms or a fever, and you will be asked to register your name and contact information in case there is an outbreak. Also, all guests must sit at tables and people who do not live together must stay 1.5 metres apart. Clubs and dance venues are currently closed.

Tour boats and bike rentals

How to enjoy the city, safely Amsterdam is open to be discovered. The government has passed regulations to help keep people safe in the city, and beyond. Read on for more information regarding rules, restrictions, and advice.

useums and attractions are open for visitors, but buying tickets in advance is advised. Before visiting a museum, always check its website for possible extra security measures. Some museums, notably the Rijksmuseum,

require visitors to book specific time slots.

Restaurants and bars

Restaurants, cafés, bars and terraces are open in Amsterdam, but special restrictions apply. You must make a reservation as the number of customers

It is possible to take a cruise through the canals of Amsterdam. Visit the canal-cruise companies' websites for specific measures. There are many options for renting boats in and around Amsterdam, but special rules apply. Always follow directions from the boat-rental company. Using a rental bicycle is a good alternative to discover the city.

Health resource

If you have symptoms that suggest you may have coronavirus, remain inside wherever you are staying and arrange to be tested. Call +31-70-2140214 to schedule an appointment. If you test positive for COVID19, you and any traveling

Getting around

Avoid busy places and consider visiting regions or cities away from tourist hotspots. Leave if you notice it is becoming difficult to keep a distance of 1.5 metres. Be aware face masks are mandatory in public transport.

companions must self-isolate in your holiday accommodation for two weeks. Comprehensive information is available on the National Institute for Public Health and the Environment website (RIVM. nl/en), including a guide to symptoms, when to visit a GP, Q&A’s, travel advice and updates from the World Health Organisation. A national information hotline has also been created to answer questions, which you can reach on +31-800-1351 (or +31-702140214). An English message follows after the Dutch one.

Basic rules

During your stay in Amsterdam you must follow the rules that have been imposed to prevent the spread of COVID-19. These rules apply to everyone in the Netherlands, including visitors. • Always maintain a distance of 1.5 metres (two arm’s lengths) from other people • Stay home if you have symptoms (a cold or fever) • Wash your hands often • Don’t shake hands with others • Avoid busy places

As rules and restrictions may change, especially in crowded areas, keep an eye on iamsterdam.com for up to date information. Enjoy the city in a responsible way, and stay safe!

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WELCOME - KTSF.indd 9

17-09-20 14:03

Your Trip

10 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

Apple pie is the ultimate Dutch comfort food that shouldn’t be reserved for dessert. Wash it down with hot Chocomel topped with cream and spiked with rum.

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide of what to see and do.

24 A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard-perfect slice of Amsterdam.

Catch a film in a mesmerizing theatre

Grab some popcorn and settle into the opulent Pathé Tuschinski cinema. The theatre itself is a feast for the eyes, decorated in several architectural styles with a heavy emphasis on Art Deco. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Hang out in a hip café

Catch a free ferry behind Amsterdam Central Station and discover Amsterdam Noord. Escape the chill in one of Amsterdam’s many cafés bursting with local character. Try sustainably focused Café de Ceuvel.

Explore the Jordaan and Negen Straatjes

hours in Amsterdam

How to Spend Your Time in…

DURATION: 1 HOUR

DURATION: 2 HOURS

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 YOUR TRIP - KT_MB.indd 10

17-09-20 14:00

Wrap up for an energizing stroll through the city’s many parks, or the Amsterdamse Bos – an inner city forest where you might meet deer, goats and even highland cows. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 49) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

Tick off the major museums

Head to the Rijksmuseum for the Dutch Golden Age masters, the Van Gogh Museum for more than 200 paintings by the post-impressionist himself, and the Stedelijk Museum for all things contemporary (all free with the I amsterdam City Card). DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Majestic castle

It doesn’t snow every winter, but Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot (free with your City Card) is even more majestic when it does. Complete with a moat, drawbridge and expansive gardens.

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

DURATION: 3 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Visit Haarlem’s museums

Admire Frans Hals’ masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum – an inspiring experience for the building alone – or delve into art and scientific discoveries at the Teylers Museum, one of the oldest museums in the Netherlands. Both are free with the City Card.

Anne Frank’s story

Don’t miss the Anne Frank House Museum (not included in your City Card), where the Frank family lived in secret during WWII. The museum also offers digital experiences including Anne Frank’s video diary: a vlog-style retelling of the family’s life. There’s also the Jewish Historical Museum (free with the City Card), dedicated to Jewish arts and culture.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 YOUR TRIP - KT_MB.indd 11

Take a winter walk

17-09-20 14:00

AMSTERDAM

Snippers 35cl whisky, gin or rum €12.50

GIF TS Meet the local makers Looking for those Amsterdam gifts and unique products made by designers from the city? From posters and jewellery to home accessories and board games, you can shop it all in the I amsterdam Store and the I amsterdam webshop: www.iamsterdam.com/webshop

Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side WIJCK. posters €9.90 - €39.90

Frederik Roijé bird house €29

ad I am mag Store herfst.indd 1

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 12

25-08-2020 16:54

17-09-20 16:48

14 16 17 18

Where to indulge in Amsterdam

Comfort Foody Med Led Dining Out FELIX City Shopping

Discovering the city in a responsible way? See page 9 for more information on corona rules and regulations.

Vessel

Way out in the Western Docklands, Hotel Boat&Co Amsterdam scores some serious style points with its new development. Here, in the hull of the hotel, you’ll find restaurant Vessel, where chef Ricardo van Ede’s love for ‘food that puts a smile on your face’ translates to dishes such as hand-cut steak tartare (€12) and baked grey mullet with lemon, anchovies and capers (€24). REVALEILAND 500 VESSELAMSTERDAM.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

20 16:54

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 13

17-09-20 16:48

Eat

Stock up on mini chocolate multi-packs (€5.69), the latest from Amsterdam’s favourite feelgood chocolate brand, at Tony’s Chocolonely Super Store. OUDEBRUGSTEEG 15 TONYSCHOCOLONELY.COM

14 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Trattoria Graziella

Siano-born Chef di Cucina Luigi di Benedetto and his all-Italian kitchen team bring ‘the taste of the pure Italian kitchen’ to the heart of Amsterdam at this must-try new trattoria with its warm hospitality and timeless dining room. With surprisingly well-priced dishes, such as homemade cavatelli pasta with oxtail ragout and Pecorino cheese fondue, €14) and feather-light babà al rum (a boozy syrup-soaked cake, €8) with strawberries and fresh Chantilly cream, it’s an instant comfort food classic. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 12-14 TRATTORIAGRAZIELLA.COM

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 14

17-09-20 16:49

This locally-designed stoneware mug (€14.95) inspired by the Malaccan jungle will keep you cosy with warm thoughts of tropical get-aways.

y’s

URBANNATURECULTURE.COM

In the Mood for Comfort Food

The Pancake Bakery

Explore the deeply delicious world of Dutch pannenkoeken at this pancake specialist, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. PRINSENGRACHT 193 PANCAKE.NL

If there’s been a communal holdover from our Covid cocoon it’s certainly the comeback of comfort food, perhaps a reminder of simpler times when all seemed safe.

hen times are uncertain and the climate cold and unforgiving, it’s the warm comforts of home we crave. Snert, a hearty pea soup with bacon and smoked sausage, is a Dutch wintertime classic and it’s always good at Moeders (Rozengracht 251, moeders.com), where you’ll also find other fine examples of mum’s home cooking, such as stamppot (mashed potatoes and veg) with meatballs, or hachee (oniony beef stew) with boiled potatoes and red cabbage. Should you have slightly more adventurous carb cravings, Amsterdam is the place to discover the food of the former Dutch East Indies and tucking into a rijsttafel (a selection of shared plates from across the Indonesian archipelago) is a great way to spend a cold evening. Blue Pepper (Nassaukade 366, bluepepper.com) does one of the city’s best. While you’re at it, why not tick Surinamese food (from the former Dutch West Indies) oﬀ your world cuisines bucket list, too? The chicken-filled saoto soup at Roopram Amsterdam (Van Woustraat 37, roopramroti.nl) is just what the doctor ordered. For many of us, chocolate is the ultimate cure-all, and there’s arguably no better place to satisfy your sweet tooth than at Tony's Chocolonely Chocolate Bar (Damrak 23, chocolatebar.tonyschocolonely.com) where the taps literally flow with melted chocolate and cookie burgers come topped with caramel and marshmallows.

Sagardi Amsterdam

This Basque-owned pinxtos bar and eatery serves deeply satisfying specialities, from delicate white tuna belly, Getaria anchovies and spring onions on toasted bread (€16) to rich ruby slices of slowaged Txuleton Rubia Gallega steak (from €7.50 per 100 g) served with sweet piquillo peppers. SPUISTRAAT 304 SAGARDI.NL

Kaasbar

Go beyond Gouda at this ‘cheese bar’, where twenty local artisan offerings, with pairings, pass by sushi-style on a conveyor belt. FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 10 KAASBAR.AMSTERDAM

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 15

17-09-20 16:49

Eat & Drink

16 | MED-LED RESTAURANTS

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

Marie Brasserie

Order ocean-fresh oysters and lavish platters of fruits de mer with river views at this French food lover’s port of call. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 MARIEAMSTERDAM.COM

These eateries can transport you from the cold, grey streets of Amsterdam to warmer, and more colourful places.

Mediterranean Escapes

Mr. Meat Alba

With its large Turkish-Dutch immigrant community, Amsterdam is a terrific place to try Turkish food, and this recently opened steakhouse with its dry ageing cabinets, in-house butcher and grill-master offers authentic housemade merguez sausages (€7), kasap köfte (spicy meatballs, €19.50), and other flame-grilled classics. HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 118 MRMEATSTEAKHOUSE.COM

Head to this East-side wine bar-slash-restaurant for natural wines selected by owner Steven MacLeod, who came up through some of Amsterdam’s best wine bars, and inventive Italianesque dishes that pack in the flavour; from corvina crudo with cucumber and Thai vinaigrette (€11) to a chocolate dessert with passionfruit and coffee crumble (€6.50). WIBAUTSTRAAT 105HS ALBA-AMSTERDAM.NL

NENI

For the ultimate lazy Sunday (€32.50 pp, 11 am-4 pm, reservations advised) do brunch Balagan-style with the Eastern Mediterranean specialist’s greatest hits – think spicy shakshuka with eggs and sourdough bread, citrus-based cocktails, traditional babka and, of course, NENI’s homemade hummus and labneh with flatbread. STADIONPLEIN 8 NENI-AMSTERDAM.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 16

17-09-20 16:49

A wine pairing is well worth the splurge (from €25.50) because Felix’s sommelier, Saskia Smeenk, is one of the city’s best and brightest.

Full of Merit At the recently renovated Felix Meritis Centre for Arts, Culture & Science, culinary adventurers are rewarded with a new take on Dutch cuisine, spot-on wine pairings and service that goes the extra mile.

n a handsome high-ceilinged 18th-century dining room overlooking Keizersgracht, a minimalist modern décor references the elegant stijlkamers (‘style rooms’) of the Dutch Golden Age. So too, chef Floris van Straalen’s accomplished local cuisine combines inspiration from the past with contemporary touches including culinary nods to events at the ‘centre for curious minds’, which reopened this September. Choose

from a three or five course Chef's Menu for lunch (from €39.50), or between four to seven courses for dinner (from €49), and let your journey of discovery begin. At a recent visit, the steamy Frozen Sea (fresh Zeeland flat oysters, Japanese sambai vinegar and lime) was a highlight in an outstanding meal. Whoever said Dutch food was dull hasn’t dined here. KEIZERSGRACHT 324 FELIXMERITIS.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 17

17-09-20 16:49

Shop

18 | SHOPPING IN AMSTERDAM

De Pijp * West * Museum District Jordaan * Old Centre

Shopper’s Paradise Loaded with local and international names in design, art and fashion, Amsterdam has true global shopping appeal.

entral Amsterdam is home to charming shopping areas such as the canal-straddling Negen Straatjes, picturesque Jordaan, hip Haarlemmerstraat/-dijk, and upmarket Utrechtsestraat. Or, simply head to Kalverstraat, the Netherlands’ busiest and most famous shopping street. Away from the crowds, to the East and West are dynamic districts where indie stores and trendy boutiques cater to the young and hip, especially around the Czaar Peterstraat, Javastraat and De Hallenbuurt areas. And, in the elegant South, you’ll find everything from the latest designer gear to centuries-old art, from the posh P.C. Hooftstraat and chic Cornelis Schuytstraat to the cosmopolitan De Pijp and refined Spiegelkwartier antiques district nearby.

Terre Lente

Stop by for a bite or grab an authentic Neapolitan espresso and goodies to go at this Italian-owned Jordaan delicatessen, which imports most of its Calabrian products directly from small-scale growers and (natural) winemakers in Italy. There’s also freshly-baked focaccia, homemade pasta al forno, and a wide variety of Italian produce, olives, cheese, and more. WESTERSTRAAT 55 TERRELENTE.COM

A.N Other introduces a range of unique unisex luxury fragrances at an accessible price-point (from €80 at De Bijenkorf)e. DAM 1, BIJENKORF.NL

MOISE

This one-stop-shop for contemporary cult labels offers designs as carefully discreet as the clean-lined boutique itself. You’ll find autumn-ready outfits (pictured: Isabel Marant midi skirt, €490, and mohair sweater, €550, and TOL Eyewear sunglasses, €250) as well as winning winter bags and boots from Dutch it-label Wandler (€735 pictured). CEINTUURBAAN 111 MOISE-STORE.COM

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 18

17-09-20 16:49

Shop seriously stylish aviation-inspired arm candy, like this AVI 1953 Edition timepiece (€39,500) at the sleek new Breitling Brand Boutique. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 130 BREITLING.COM

ABOUT Lifestyle for Men

When Randy Hoogeweegen set out to create ‘the ultimate men’s store’ he envisioned a ‘combination of fashion, art and lifestyle in a stylish hang-out with coffee, fresh tunes and top-to-toe fashion advice, because men like nice things but hate shopping’. According to Randy, it’s ‘everything a man wants. Well, you know, apart from that other thing…’. DE CLERCQSTRAAT 74H ABOUTLIFESTYLE.NL

Blowdry Brow Bar

Take the express route to pampering yourself from head to toe at this recently renovated hair- and beauty salon. It’s one of only a few in town where you can conveniently get an expert blow-out and manicure done simultaneously – just the thing for all your pre-party prepping this holiday season. Studio Josha turns trash to treasure with its brass lamp inspired by crumpled-up paper. Available in three sizes, from €200, at X BANK.

CEINTUURBAAN 23 BLOWDRYBROWBAR.COM

GSPUISTRAAT 172 XBANK.AMSTERDAM

INSIDER INTERVIEW Winke Wagner (50), co-owner of Skin Rhythm Amsterdam ‘A year ago, I opened my salon in Amsterdam’s most charming street, which has all the allure of Amsterdam South without the price tag – it’s easily reach-able by public transport and you can still find a parking spot here. We offer a variety of treatments for skin improvement and rejuvenation using Dermalogica products, deep tissue massage and advanced, result-oriented equipment. One of these is CryoSkin, which we use for toning and tightening treatments for the body and an innovative collagenstimulating cold therapy facial that acts like a natural facelift. We prefer to work with our clients on a customized skin improvement plan for beautiful healthy skin year-round. So, for instance, in autumn we’d advise a peel to treat post-summer holiday pigmentation after all that sun exposure.’ BOSBOOM TOUSSAINTSTRAAT 22HS SKINAMSTERDAM.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 EATDRINKSHOP - KT.indd 19

17-09-20 16:49

ITA â&#x20AC;&#x201D; ENSEMBLE AUTUMN 2020 PREMIERES THE GOOD HOPE Simon Stone ROMEO AND JULIA Michiel van Erp

REPRISES MEDEA Simon Stone FREUD Ivo van Hove

Visit

Painters of

Light

THE HIDDEN FORCE Ivo van Hove THE THINGS THAT PASS Ivo van Hove TICKETS ITA.NL

and get a free breakfast Singerlaren.nl/breakfast Valid until January 10

Oude Drift 1 | 1251 BS Laren | www.singerlaren.nl

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 20

18-09-20 10:50

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda

22 Exhibitions 24 Collections 25 Festivals, Events & Family 26 On stage 28 Classical 29 Screen, Clubbing & LGBTQ+ 29 Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Shifting Proximities The debut exhibition at new Nxt Museum features large, multi-sensory installations by acclaimed artists and academics in the field of New Media. At its heart, Shifting Proximities explores human experience and interaction in the face of technological and social change, which seems to be bang-on trend for our times. Curated by Bogomir Doringer and Jesse Damiani, the exhibition features a number of newly commissioned pieces as well.

1.5

METRES

UNTIL 28 FEBRUARY 2021, NX TMUSEUM.NL

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 21

18-09-20 10:50

Exhibitions 22 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

World Press Photo T

he 2020 edition of World Press Photo is currently on show at De Nieuwe Kerk in Amsterdam. As with previous years, the exhibition showcases the very best images from leading

photojournalists along with compelling stories. Grouped into eight categories, the images will take you around the world providing insight into environmental disasters, major news events, the animal

Restricted Images

This collaborative exhibition by Patrick Waterhouse and the Warlukurlangu Art Centre features works made in Yuendumu and Nyirripi, both remote communities in Central Australia. People and landscapes in the region were photographed by Waterhouse, who printed the images and returned them to the communities who then painted onto the prints. It resulted in thought-provoking images referencing The Native Tribes of Central Australia publication of 1899, a book that set a new standard for anthropological photography â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although the authors were oblivious to the impact they would have on the lives of the Aboriginals and the cultural protocols they infringed upon.

world and much more. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this must-see exhibition. UNTIL 29 NOVEMBER, WORLDPRESSPHOTO.ORG

Infinite Identities

For this exhibition, nine artists and photographers demonstrate how they make use of Instagram. The social platform has quickly become the online space to engage audiences and circulate images, but how does that translate to the gallery space? Huis Marseille tackles the challenge head-on showing how important the physical experience is while acknowledging how social photography can enrich the exhibition format. 28 NOVEMBER-MARCH 2021, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

UNTIL 24 OCTOBER, THERAVESTIJNGALLERY.COM

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 22

18-09-20 10:50

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

OSCAM – the Open Space Contemporary Art Museum – aims to stimulate arts participation for Amsterdam residences. They host exhibitions and events centred around art, fashion, design and craftsmanship.

BIJLMERPLEIN 110, OSCAM.NL

Tsars & Knights

Hermitage Amsterdam sets passions alight this winter with a revealing exhibition centred on tsars and knights. Utilising masterpieces in the collection including key works from Hermitage St. Petersburg, this exhibition charts the Russian court, from courtly love through to thrilling tournaments. Around the beginning of the 19th century, Europeans were becoming interested in the Middle Ages marking the start of a revival across many cultural fields. The Russian court was caught under the spell of the revival with tsar Alexander III purchasing a significant collection of works pre-auction, much to the anger of the French, and tsars Paul and Nicolas I both collecting ancient weapons. This exhibition presents the spoils with all the elegance Hermitage Amsterdam has become renowned for.

Amsterdam

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

7 NOVEMBER-31 JULY, HERMITAGE.NL

Girls

Alec Soth

Magnum photographer Alec Soth is known for recording life at the margins of American society. Following a period of seclusion, Soth is back with I Know How Furiously Your Heart Is Beating, a departure from his earlier work, as his lens is more inward looking. This new series of intimate portraits and still-life scenes makes its museum debut at Foam.

At the very beginning of the 1990s American photographer Remsen Wolff spent a month at the American Hotel in Amsterdam to work on his project Special Girls - A Celebration. His focus was on transgender people from New York and Amsterdam, both performers and those struggling with their gender identity. The portraits are as exuberant and glamorous as they are subdued and vulnerable.

UNTIL 6 DECEMBER, FOAM.ORG © CHICRANS BEDROOM, BUCHAREST, 2018, EIDOS FOUNDATION AND ALEC SOTH MAGNUM PHOTOS

UNTIL 6 DECEMBER, FOAM.ORG

Waterlooplein in 3D Using 3D reconstructions, film footage, photographs, objects and archaeological material, this exhibition in the Joods Historisch Museum charts the history of Waterlooplein. Once the heart of Amsterdam’s Jewish district, the construction of a new city hall and opera house in the 1980s – a development that all but obliterated the bustling Jewish neighbourhood – completely transformed the area. Learn all about the stories this area has to offer from the 17th century to the present day. 2 OCTOBER-28 FEBRUARY 2021, JCK.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 23

18-09-20 10:50

Collections

Events might get cancelled due to the corona virus. Always check websites for the latest updates.

24 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

No Justice No Peace

Your loving

Vincent

Vincent van Gogh was a prolific writer of letters, and so the focus of the Your loving Vincent: Van Gogh’s Greatest Letters exhibition is on them. Rarely seen due to their fragility, a selection of his letters will be shown alongside his masterpieces. The letters cover many aspects of his life, from dreams and disappointments to his love life and friendships, and even his battles with illness. Many include sketches that show studies for paintings he was working on.

LETTER FROM VINCENT VAN GOGH TO THEO VAN GOGH WITH 12 SKETCHES

It’s a pivotal time for the Stedelijk Museum, who have recently committed to correcting the lack of diversity reflected in their collection and exhibition programme following the global Black Lives Matter demonstrations. First up in the museum’s steps to address and dismantle institutional racism is this specially commissioned poster by Amsterdam artist Farida Sedoc. Sedoc is known for interrogating contemporary cultural identity through her distinctive visual style. The brand new poster echoes protest posters from the 1960s, some of which are currently on view downstairs, in the museum’s Stedelijk BASE collection. The poster is an important punctuation piece for the museum: a statement of intent that will become part of its fabric. Witness it now, while it’s alive and humming with purpose. Perhaps by the time the poster joins its 1960s predecessors in the vaults of history, its goal may have been realized. STEDELIJK.NL

9 OCTOBER-10 JANUARY 2021, VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

Trembling Landscapes

When it came to observing, Rembrandt was a master. For the exhibition Life/Time his sympathetic eye focuses on his etchings and paintings of older people. As intimate as they are vulnerable, the works are powerful depictions of the elderly as symbols of the transience of life.

The notion of landscape in the Middle East is the focus of Trembling Landscapes. This exhibition considers national and natural borders, tussles over resources, territory and (colonial) history including identity, tradition and imagination. Ranging from geography and conflict through to belonging, a selection of leading Arab artists working with film and video aim to challenge and reshape perspectives drawing on complex and entangled issues such as geopolitics and poetics. Accompanying the exhibition is a rich programme of films, talks and events.

UNTIL 29 NOVEMBER, REMBRANDTHUIS.NL

UNTIL 3 JANUARY 2021, EYEFILM.NL

Life/ Time

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 24

18-09-20 10:50

Festivals, Events & Family 25

TEXT: STEVE KORVER

Amsterdam Dance Event

Afrovibes

he Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) is the gateway to the international electronic music scene. As the world’s biggest club festival and Europe’s leading electronic music conference, they remain adamantly ambitious for 2020 – their 25th edition. This year’s event will be largely online with limited physical events, such as seated concerts, with a focus on a professional audience.

21-25 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Cinekid

African cultural and performing arts festival Afro_Vibes tours the Netherlands every autumn. Taking place both on- and offline, this year’s edition under the theme ‘Entanglements’ will feature an exciting selection of urban and contemporary music, theatre, dance and design by young urban creatives – all cutting-edge. 1-10 OCTOBER, AFROVIBES.NL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

With the theme for 2020 being an appropriate ‘No Parents Allowed!’, this annual film, television and new-media festival shows a wide variety of screenings and activities tailored to children aged between ages three and 14. They can watch films and explore interactive art installations, workshops, games and apps.

Amsterdam Light Festival

Dimmed for its 2020 edition, Amsterdam Light Festival will feature nine light sculptures under the rather curious theme of ‘When Nature Calls’. But these works are still enough to (literally) put Amsterdam's beautiful city centre and its canals in the spotlights. No matter how you choose to view the installations – by foot or bike – you’ll be amazed by their technical brilliance and beauty.

7-23 OCTOBER, CINEKID.NL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

10 DECEMBER-3 JANUARY 2021 AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

Ice skating

Every November, Museumplein in Amsterdam is transformed into a winter wonderland complete with a replica of the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge). Ice-skate to your heart’s content with the iconic Rijksmuseum in the background while on the sidelines friendly faces watch skaters whizz by. For shoppers there’s a cosy Christmas market nearby.

Storytelling Festival

This annual celebration of humanity’s oldest art form features acclaimed storytellers lighting up the long autumn nights with pacey plots, touching tales and real-life accounts from around the world – all on this year’s theme of ‘Rebirth’. With shows in Dutch and English. 28 OCTOBER-1 NOVEMBER, PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL

14 NOVEMBER-31 JANUARY 2021, ICEAMSTERDAM.NL, MUSEUMPLEIN

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 25

18-09-20 10:50

On Stage

Events might get cancelled due to the corona virus. Always check websites for the latest updates.

26 | TEXT: JAYNE ROBINSON

Sitcom

oom Chicago’s new show Sitcom looks to the nineties for inspiration. Back then turbulent times were treated with a good dose of comedy in the evenings to quell anxiety. For this new perfectly timed show, Andrew Moskos has analysed this popular TV staple reimagining it for a contemporary audience. Funnily enough, this show was inspired by Netflix’s mind-boggling offer to purchase streaming rights to Seinfeld. Moskos asked: do we really need more re-runs, repetitive jokes, and cliché situations? See what he’s made of it all in this hilarious live show. UNTIL JANUARY 2021, BOOMCHICAGO.NL

Freud

The last five years The story of a marriage takes an innovative twist in Jason Robert Brown’s award winning two-hander. Jamie Wellerstein and Cathy Hiatt are a rising novelist and a struggling actress, who fall in and out of love

over the course of five years. Packed with emotion, intimate characterization and great songs, this modern musical is a love story for our times. 13-21 NOVEMBER, ORANGETHEATRECOMPANY.COM

In the late 1950s, Jean-Paul Sartre wrote The Freud Scenario, assigned by Hollywood director John Huston. Sartre completely immersed himself in the subject and in the end had written a script for a seven-hour film. Huston cut the many hundreds of pages down to a two-hour script, resulting in a row with Sartre, who eventually had his name removed from the credits. The script has remained untouched since then. Now, Ivo van Hove stages Sartre’s mammoth work in its entirety in a world premiere by Internationaal Theater Amsterdam in co-production with Antwerp’s Toneelhuis. Performed with English surtitles on Thursdays. 21-31 OCTOBER, ITA.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 26

18-09-20 10:50

The Dutch National Ballet is back with an exciting new ballet by ballet by Juanjo Arqués and William Forsythe. Performed by seven male dancers, Manoeuvre focuses on male sensitivity. It is as emotional as it is strong. 21 OCTOBER-15 NOVEMBER, OPERABALLET.NL

‘One thing I’ll recommend comedically are Those Dam Boat Guys! Offering daily canal tours throughout the year, these guys are knowledgeable, interactive and hysterically funny. They can inform and entertain even the most stoic local.’

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

Even those who have never seen Shakespeare’s most famous love drama on stage, know the story of the great love between the star crossed lovers and its fatal outcome. Romeo and Julia begins as a blistering tribute to youth, but turns into outbursts of violence and leads to a dark tragedy that ends in a double suicide. But in this version by Michiel van Erp the tables are turned as identity takes centre stage, roles are reversed and colour doesn’t matter. Performed with English surtitles on Thursdays. 14 NOVEMBER-5 DECEMBER, ITA.NL

INSIDER TIP Rob AndristPlourde (50), comedian and improv teacher

John Bishop

8-9 NOVEMBER, MEERVAART.NL

English comedian John Bishop kicks off a series of European stand-up shows in Amsterdam. This former footballer and current funny man has sold-out shows in the UK and has a devoted audience for his warm, laid back humour. Don’t miss the laughs when he rolls into town.

Romeo & Julia

Mezrab Mezrab’s popular storytelling evenings are now taking place every Friday evening on Facebook from 8 pm. What better way is there to end the week, and start the weekend, than with a series of inspiring stories? Join a committed crew of poets, comedians, artists and improvisers as they share tales from Amsterdam across the spectrum of creativity. All talks are in English. UNTIL 24 OCTOBER, MEZRAB.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 27

18-09-20 10:50

Classical

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

28 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL & DAVID WILLS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Cello Biënnale

he Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ’s renowned cello biennial enters its eighth edition with a packed programme featuring more than 90 concerts (including six premieres) and other events. Musicians, ensembles and orchestras from 23 countries are set to take part in a programme that’s shaped by two themes. With ‘The cello takes over!’, there is a focus on works that have not originally been written for the instrument – from Purcell to The Velvet Underground. And ‘The next generation’ means there will be plenty of tomorrow’s cello stars in addition to the famous old guard.

22-31 OCTOBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL

Mozart’s Requiem

Due to poor health, money worries and the pressure of work, Mozart died before he completed Requiem, arguably one of his most moving works. Over the years several composers have attempted to complete the piece to Mozart’s standards. For this rendition, the Orchestra of the 18th Century, together with Cappella Amsterdam infuses Mozart’s Requiem with a sense of repentance and reflection. 21 OCTOBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL

Beethoven 2020

It’s Beethoven year, and as the 250th anniversary of the great composer’s birth is celebrated all over the world, the Concertgebouw puts on an ambitious programme. In the span of one November week, all nine symphonies are performed by four orchestras including the Orchestre des ChampsElysées and the Freiburger Barockorchester. On 11 October, the Concertgebouw Orchestra and Krystian Zimerman play all five piano concertos in a marathon concert. And a range of leading soloists and ensembles perform the sonatas in the Recital Hall throughout October, November and December. OCTOBER-DECEMBER, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 28

18-09-20 10:50

Screen, Clubbing & LGBTQ+ 29

TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY & DAVID WILLS

msterdam’s much anticipated International Documentary Film Festival is returning in November, bringing documentary films about life, love, politics and society to cinemas around the city. Getting deeper into what happens off-screen is an integral part of the event, and this year audiences can still enjoy the heightened experience of meeting the filmmakers through introductions and Q&As, be it via live or online events. Guest of Honor for the 2020 edition: Italian director Gianfranco Rosi.

IDFA

18-29 NOVEMBER, IDFA.NL, VARIOUS CINEMAS

International Queer & Migrant Film Festival © KOEN SMILDE

Personal explorations of identity, the fight for LGBTQ+ freedom, and the experiences of migrants will always be among the most captivating cinematic stories. Amsterdam’s International Queer & Migrant Film Festival gives a stage to queer art and culture in relation to migration topics, bringing diversity and inclusivity to the mainstream feature film offering. Alongside the films, don’t miss the debates, performances and always-inspiring artwork. 2-6 DECEMBER, IQMF.NL

Expat Cinema

Creating a sense of community for international film buffs in Amsterdam, Expat Cinema comes through with an impressive selection of foreign language films with English subtitles. Screening everything from art house new releases to classic guilty pleasures, the ever-changing schedule has something to delight fans of the most obscure niche.

The best of LGBTQ+ bars

If you’re looking for a place for a quiet drink in Amsterdam, then pop into any of Amsterdam’s best LGBTQ bars and cafes. PRIK’s vibe is fun and flirty with a focus on music (Spuistraat 109, prikamsterdam.nl). The Queen’s Head has an English pub feel with regular entertainment (Zeedijk 20, queenshead.nl). And for girls, head to Bar Buka in De Pijp (Albert Cuypstraat 124, barbuka.nl). Bookings may be required, check their websites for full details.

VARIOUS DATES, LAB111.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 29

18-09-20 10:50

Pop & Rock

30 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT & DAVID WILLS

Events might get cancelled due to the corona virus. Always check websites for the latest updates.

After her previous tour UK star IAMDDB has devoted herself to making new music and recently released new mixtape Swervvvvv.5. The Manchester rapper-singer, born Diana De Brito, is known for her cheeky mix of trap, jazz, and hiphop. Citing influences as diverse as Erykah Badu and Nat King Cole, De Brito’s self-styled brand of ‘urban jazz’ has earned her a reputation as one of the most promising artistst on the British urban scene. Expect upbeat tunes and lots of energy for her show in Melkweg.

9 NOVEMBER, MELKWEG.NL

IAMDDB

Warmduscher

Soccer Mommy

4 DECEMBER, PARADISO.NL

12 FEBRUARY 2021, PARADISO.NL

With band members called The Saulcano and Mr Salt Fingers Lovecraft and featuring members of The Fat White Family, it’s fair to say that Warmduscher don’t sound quite like anything else you’ve heard. Three albums in they’ve basically laid waste to any genre they might be interested in, dissecting garage punk, surf pop, disco and classic rock’n’roll to make monstrous music that’s completely captivating.

Whether writing about growing up with a mother with a terminal, long-term illness or evoking vignettes from her own experiences dealing with depression, there’s a universality to Sophie Allison’s music which invites you in and makes you feel like you’re right where you belong. As indebted to mid-1990s US indie as she is to Taylor Swift, there’s a light touch to her twinkling melodies that makes the things she writes about seem to hit home even harder.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 30

18-09-20 10:51

Tokyo Police Club’s alternative indie sound continues to wow fans and audiences with their refusal to follow music trends. Catch them 9 December at Melkweg.

1.5

METRES

➜...➜

Leif Vollebekk

ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

Canadian indie-folk singer-song writer Leif Vollebekk's first concert at Paradiso Noord sold out quickly, so a second one was scheduled in. Inspired by Bob Dylan, Neil Young and Lou Reed, Vollebekk has truly come into his own with his latest album New Ways. The songs are about engaging and changing, touching and being touched. It’s a physical record, with louder grooves, and rawer lyrics than his previous albums. Piano and guitar complement his characteristic coarse voice, while his words hit straight to the heart. Get ready for a soul-melting experience. 17 OCTOBER, PARADISO.NL

Heather Nova

Hailing from Bermuda, Heather Nova spent most of the 1970s and some of the 1980s sailing the Atlantic and Carribean with her family. These days she’s more likely to be found on land releasing music, writing poetry and being involved in environmental activism. In 2019 she released her tenth studio album Pearl, which she is currently touring in a series of acoustic concerts. Don’t miss this opportunity to catch this singer-songwriter whose music has appeared in soundtracks and won the hearts of many adoring fans. 12 OCTOBER, PARADISO.NL

London Calling

Simple Minds Simple Minds celebrate 40 years of hits with a worldwide tour. Since 1979 the Scottish band has released 20 studio albums, toured continuously and have seen their songs top the charts across the globe. Grab your ticket to see them perform Promised you a Miracle, Don’t You (Forget About Me), Alive and Kicking along with many others. Note, this concert is the rescheduled concert of 10 April 2020. 5 FEBRUARY 2021, ZIGGODOME.NL

The twice-yearly music festival at Paradiso helps give Amsterdam’s indie kids and music lovers an insight into what’s happening across the channel and beyond. Showcasing a new collection of bands who are tipped to make it big, London Calling is often your first chance to catch new acts as they begin their rise to the top, all going well. 30-31 OCTOBER, PARADISO.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 WHAT'S ON_2SF - KT-3.indd 31

18-09-20 10:51

Hey Amsterdam, /whats-on The ultimate guide to discover whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on in Amsterdam.

iamsterdam.com/whats-on 210x276.indd 1 IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 32

31-01-19 15:15 18-09-20 09:53

19 15:15

City Guide

34 38 40 41

Noord Zuid Oost West

Explore Amsterdamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neighbourhoods

Situated on the northern bank of the River IJ, the Eye Filmmuseum's striking, contemporary architecture is one of Amsterdam's modern icons. Just opposite Central Station, this cutting-edge location offers a stunning waterside view. Inside, the cinema, film museum, and restaurant are a must-see for visitors and locals alike. Entrance is free with the I amsterdam City Card, while some exhibitions and screenings require an additional surcharge or advanced bookings.

ÂŠ LILY HEATON

Architecture meets film

IJPROMENADE 1, EYEFILM.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 33

18-09-20 09:53

Noord 34 | text: TEXT: Karin LILY Engelbrecht HEATON

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 34

18-09-20 09:53

Noord's latest cultural addition, Nxt Museum, is dedicated to new media art through multi-sensory installations (@nxtmuseum).

ASTERWEG 22, AMSTERDAM

Across the River

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord's (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as the many new developments popping up just across the River IJ. Gone are the days of true grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art (see page 6!), cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and step off a few minutes later to explore this ever-evolving neighbourhood. For the fastest route, exit the Buiksloterweg ferry and step onto a wide, riverside promenade that leads visitors to a variety of amusements and eye-catching architecture, such as the Eye Filmmuseum. Meanwhile, take in a bird's-eye view from the top of the A'DAM Tower, where thrill-seekers

Quirky Amsterdam Noord offers diverse and bohemian entertainment, just steps from the water’s edge. dare to swing from the edge of the roof – the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 meters up.

From ships to hip

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west over towards NDSM Wharf. Once home to the Netherlands' largest dockyard, this urban plaza now hosts a vibrant cultural centre with assorted eateries and an agenda full of unorthodox activities. Popular with locals, Pllek (T.T. Neveritaweg 59, pllek.nl) is a perfectly laid back spot to enjoy a (mostly vegetarian) dinner and a magnificent view of the River IJ. Journey around the corner to Noorderlicht (NDSM-Plein 102, noorderlichtcafe.nl), a greenhouse turned café housed along the water's edge, where you can have lunch in

1.5

INSIDER TIP

‘I love the food and spacious atmosphere at Hotel de Goudfazant. It's housed in a warehouse with an industrial feel and tall windows that offer a great view along the IJ.’ Sharon McAllister (41), marketing and sales coach

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 35

18-09-20 09:53

Noord 36 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

the sun or dance the night away under the stars. Twice a month, treasure hunters can rummage through recycled wares when Europe's largest flea market takes over. IJ-Hallen (T.T. Neveritaweg 15, ijhallen.nl) features over 500 stands full of vintage threads, vinyl records and knick-knacks galore.

Northern expansion

Despite its fast growth, Noord is still considerably less developed than the opposite side of the River IJ. This area boasts more open space and the opportunity to slow down and enjoy a different side of Amsterdam. For a local feel, journey along the recently refurbished Van der Pekstraat,

where vendors at the Pekmarkt sell local treats, handmade goods and organic produce every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. With many industrial spaces available, this neighbourhood is quickly filling up with creative movers and shakers. Grab a slice at Klaproos pop-up pizzeria (Papaverweg 15A, klaproosamsterdam.nl), where wood-fired pizzas are served in a spacious warehouse or on their terrace out front. Further down the road, vintage hotspots Van Dijk & Ko and Neef Louis (Papaverweg, vandijkenco.nl, neeflouis.nl) have endless antique goodies and vintage furniture on offer.

Coloured Goodies This concept shop sells one-of-a-kind children's dolls while shining the spotlight on diversity and inclusion. Founder Ellen Brudet opened Europe's first Black doll and gift shop in 2016 to fill a gap in the market. The lifelike 'mini-me' dolls amplify unique features, different hair textures and a range of skin tones, including albinism and vitiligo. VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 75H COLOUREDGOODIES.NL

Walhalla brewery FC Hyena

Dinner, movies and wine make the perfect trio at this boutique cinema, screening a mix of indie films and new releases. Munch pizza baked in a wood-fired brick oven and enjoy a glass of wine with an open view of the River IJ. AAM BE E LDSTRAAT 24 FCHYENA.NL

New to the neighbourhood, this microbrewery and tasting room recently opened its doors serving the 'beer of the gods.' Brewed on-site and named after mythical figures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Loki Golden IPA and Osiris Farmhouse Ale, for example â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a dozen rotate on draft. Plus plenty more available by the bottle and a snack menu to help manage your buzz. SPIJKERKADE 10 WALHALLACRAFTBEER.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 36

18-09-20 09:53

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU |

Welcome Back! We were worried we’d never see you again. Well, at least some of us were. Let’s be honest, Amsterdam and tourists can sometimes be a love-hate affair.

re-coronavirus, the city and many of its residents had had enough with the record number of visitors that saw its population of some 850,000 accommodate a staggering 21.6 million visitors in 2019, bike paths littered with drunken partygoers and customers of Red Light District brothels that just didn’t let an inhabitant walk peacefully to the corner shop. The city, wanting to reclaim Amsterdam for Amsterdammers, enacted a number of measures to discourage what were now being called ‘visitors,’ including banning tours of the Red Light District’s windows and changing the tourist tax to favour luxury travellers over lowerspending backpackers. And then the pandemic hit. And tourism – which comprises five percent of the city’s economy and accounts for 11 percent of its jobs – stopped virtually Restau- overnight. No tourists meant no tourist rant Freud income, and the lack of tourist tax and

parking revenue left a gaping hole in the city’s budget. But as the city slowly started reopening at the beginning of June, tourists started trickling in. By the end of July, hotels once again had guests, although bookings were down 68 percent from 2019’s levels. The city is seeking to create a kinder, gentler tourism industry, one that eschews overtourism and sees residents and visitors in a more sustainable harmony that benefits all. A tourism reset, if you will, building on the work being done pre-pandemic to keep Amsterdam both liveable and welcoming. The coronavirus, says Vera Al, spokeswoman for deputy mayor for economic affairs Victor Everhardt, ‘only stresses the urgency’ of tackling the problems. As of 1 July, the city banned Airbnb rentals in parts of the centre and continues its efforts to combat ‘monoculture’ and weekend Wallen warriors. It will release an action plan by the end of this

year. ‘There’s a limit to what we can do,’ says Al. ‘You can’t put a fence around the city. And we don’t want to.’ What city officials do want is for visitors to respect the rules, including the 1.5 meter social distance between people, and mask-wearing in public transport (for a complete overview of rules, see our Covid information on page 11 or check iamsterdam.com). Acknowledging the importance of visitors to both the city’s economic and cultural life, the mayor is advising people to visit during less busy weekdays and to avoid crowds. So now that you’re coming back, know that you – especially the culture-seeking, café-going visitor – are welcome. And needed. Take advantage of the quieter city. Look up and see the stars. Plan ahead: make reservations at your favourite restaurants and museums. And most of all (to bastardize the Dutch antialcohol campaign): Geniet, maar geniet met mate! – enjoy, but not too much!

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 37

18-09-20 09:55

Zuid

38 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan elegance.

Southern Flair

©KOEN SMILDE

ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way through the Rijksmuseum tunnel. Exit directly onto Museumplein (Museum Square) where the view may feel slightly amiss without the iconic I amsterdam letters that have been moved across town. Explore a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized artworks. With elegant streets and stately mansions, it’s clear that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. The glitzy P.C. Hooftstraat caters to affluent clientele who find delight in couture brands, while more high-end boutiques can be found along the Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat. Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp, is a quirky residential neighbourhood full of hotspots and concept shops. Pick up souvenirs or taste a fresh, handmade stroopwafel (Dutch caramel waffle cookie) at the bustling Albert Cuyp Market.

Labyrinth

The welcoming atmosphere and friendly staff emit a local vibe at this corner café in De Pijp, just a short walk from the Rijksmuseum. Pair a mimosa with brunch bites like an acai bowl, munch a tartine for lunch or sit back and relax with a tasty cup of coffee and a lovely view of the area's beloved, cosy streets.

Art, music and a taste of the tropics mix together at this bar nestled along the south side of Vondelpark. Share a plate of Afro-Caribbean soul food with friends – from jerk chicken to fried cassava and samosas. Then, quench your thirst for new flavours with cocktails crafted by creative mixologists. Show off your talents or simply observe during weekly open-mic nights and spoken-word poetry events.

1e JACOB VAN CAMPENSTRAAT 27H LOCALSCOFFEE.NL

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 53 LABYRINTHAMSTERDAM.NL

INSIDER TIP

Locals Coffee

‘We organize Vrienden Van Vrienden, an event concept that travels all over Amsterdam, so we love to discover fun new places around the city. Cereal 'n Chill is a laid back café serving a unique twist on comfort food with good vibes!’ Rashif Oehlers (34) and Lorraine Masamba (29), cultural curators (@VriendenVanVrienden)

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 38

18-09-20 09:55

Interview

De Pijp is perhaps most famous for street market Albert Cuypmarkt, where vendors sell everything from fresh seafood, meat and cheese to flowers, clothes and jewellery.

TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU

If home is where the heart (and taste buds) is, Dutch winejournalist Harold Hamersma doesn’t have to look further than the Heinekenplein.

Ode to De Pijp

says ‘9 am is wine o’clock’ to help chase away the Corona Blues? ‘Always keep a bottle of champagne in the fridge. Champagne bubbles your troubles away.’ What screams ‘Amsterdam’ to you the most? The whole city. I’m very chauvinistic. When I’m five meters outside Amsterdam, I’m already melancholic.

meters from De Pijp. You’re hosted by two of the best sommeliers in the Netherlands and they serve food that matches their wine by a chef who has a Michelin star but cooks like he doesn’t. Favourite place for quiet? When we had two Bernese mountain dogs – Lien and Lana – we went to the Amsterdamse Bos five times a week. Every big decision we ever made was taken while walking and talking in the Amsterdamse Bos. My father met my mother there. Fun fact: my grandfather helped build it in the 1930s as part of a scheme to give unemployed workers jobs! Favourite store? My wife’s cookbook shop, Mevrouw Hamersma on Gerard Doustraat. I also work there, and when I close it down, I say: ‘See you tomorrow, nice little book shop!’ Also, fishmonger Siem Schilder in De Pijp’s Albert Cuypmarket. When I was a little boy, I gave them old newspapers to wrap fish in so I could get money to buy candy. They’re third generation, speak 17 languages and have the best fish around.

he author of Onder de rook van de Heineken: Een jeugd in de Pijp (Under the Smoke of the Heineken: A Childhood in the Pijp), recalls his idyllic youth in the city’s so-called Latin Quarter as part of a huge extended clan including three grandmothers and three grandfathers. ‘We owned the neighbourhood,’ he says proudly. Today he and his wife Karin Richter – better known as Mevrouw Hamersma, after her cookbook shop fame and the other half of this wine- and recipe-writing duo – live in the nearby Concertgebouw area, but their workspace/ shop/kitchen/tasting space is in the old hood in a space that was inhabited by Mr. Hamersma’s father’s barber in the 1930s. Call it destiny. ‘It’s like a small village, so very vibrant and alive,’ says Hamersma of De Pijp. ‘It’s a melting pot and has always been, with everyone packed together and everyone knowing each other.’ And despite the former working-class area now home to more upscale residents and establishments, Hamersma insists that ‘it’s not De Pijp that’s changed, but the city. Although maybe there’s a turbo effect in De Pijp because it’s so condensed and close to the centre.’ Advice from this wine journalist who tastes about 8,000 bottles a year and

Favourite restaurant? Arles on Govert Flinckstraat. It’s fantastic – reasonable prices and stunning quality. With young French chefs, a French wine list and a menu that sets it apart from the rest, you can’t eat anywhere else like it in Amsterdam. Favourite place for a glass of wine? Zoldering on Utrechtsestraat, about 200 Dappermarkt

Favourite neighbourhood? It’s still De Pijp. It’s where we feel at home, where we’re happy, where I was born. There’s so much history for me. My DNA is there and so is the DNA of my father and mother. Plus it’s a really nice area. Favourite way to get around? Walking. We need the 10,000 steps! We have bikes and I have a car, but I rarely remember where I parked it.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 39

18-09-20 09:55

Oost

Pop into Museum Tot Zover, located at the Ooster graveyard. This museum handles death with great care and a touch of humour: Victorian hair art, an old pacemaker, urns and paintings. Weird, but wonderful.

40 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Full of green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while still retaining its unique charm.

East Side

enture over the River Amstel to Oost (East), where a diverse population is evident in both its residents and its architectural styles. Find grand 19th-century designs in Oud-Oost (Old East) and modern high-rise flats along the Eastern Docklands. Home to a melange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside trendy additions. The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where vendors sell fruits, flowers and fabric. Hungry explorers will find everything from beers to (coffee) beans at spots like Louie Louie (Linnaeusstraat 11A, louielouie.nl), Bar Botanique (Eerste Van Swindenstraat 58, barbotanique.nl) and Coffee Bru (Beukenplein 14, coffeebru.nl). On sunny days, crowds gather on the terrace at Brouwerij ’t IJ, the brewery housed in a windmill (Funenkade 7, brouwerijhetij.nl). Further east, Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ’t Nieuwe Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room. Near the Oosterpark, the monumental Tropenmuseum houses a collection of anthropological treasures collected during the heyday of Dutch colonial exploration.

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

INSIDER TIP

Water en Brood

Unwind with friends over a game of bocce ball, beers and bites. What first began as a friendly game of boules in Museumplein, has turned into an inactive lawn bowling and games venue located just behind the Windmill de Gooyer. In between rounds, check out the food hall serving an ample selection including burgers, Indonesian and Middle Eastern inspired dishes. ZEEBURGERPAD 3, MOOIEBOULES.NL

Two brothers turned their family-run bike shop into an intimate café serving brunch and bespoke cocktails inspired by their Surinamese roots. Start the day with chicken and waffles or pop in for a warm bowl of Surinamese-Javanese saoto soup. They say it themselves: ‘good food, no bullshit’ and yes, you can rent bikes here too.

Mooie Boules

‘Oost is a great area and one of my favourite spots to visit is De Ruyschkamer, it has a cosy interior that feels like we're chilling in a living room. It's fun to meet friends there to play board games and catch up over cocktails.’ Leonie Conroy (31), freelance creative consultant (@leonieconroy)

NIEUWE KERKSTRAAT 84, WATERENBROOD.COM

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 40

18-09-20 09:55

Cat café Kopjes is a paradise for feline fans. Interact with the kitties while enjoying a catpuccino and a slice of cake.

West

MARCO POLOSTRAAT 211 KATTENCAFEKOPJES.NL

HIPSTER HEAVEN

Bursting with ﬂavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Daily Paper

Without any previous experience in fashion, three childhood friends from Amsterdam who collaborated on a fashion and culture blog decided to start their own street wear label in 2012. It soon conquered the world. Hussein Suleiman, Jefferson Osei and Abderrahmane Trabsini took inspiration for their swag streetwear from their own (north) African cultural background. Soon DJ’s around the world made the brand uber famous and the original store on Bilderdijkstraat (two others are temporarily closed because of Covid) a sacred shrine for fans. A store in New York City is set to open.

For more information on Amsterdam West check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the Canal Ring. Around 15 years ago, the city renovated Westergasfabriek, an old gas factory, into a cultural hotspot. There’s plenty to enjoy, including festivals, movies and music with lots of bites and booze on offer. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shops and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants. Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the vibrant Oud-West (Old West) with its many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available at De Hallen (Hannie Dankbaarpassage 47, dehallen-amsterdam.nl), an old tram depot turned cultural centre. The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, areas that were once farmland now host hipster cafés and shops. Don’t miss the Amsterdam School-style architecture, featuring thick, sculptural brick and notes of an Art Deco aesthetic. Explore the socio-political context of this 20th-century architecture at Museum Het Schip.

Planthood

Plant parents can stop by for inspiration, green additions, and learn how to best look after their plant babies. Founder Monai Nailah McCullough (@plantmom.amsterdam) was a horticulturist in NYC before transplanting to Amsterdam where she has guided urban plant lovers with workshops, design and consultations since 2018. POSTJESWEG 52, PLANT-HOOD.COM

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 131 AND CENTRAL STATION, DAILYPAPER.COM

INSIDER TIP

Go West

'I'm often working on my laptop at different cafés. Koffie Academie on the Overtoom is my favourite spot; they serve the best coffee in the neighbourhood. On a beautiful day, I'll take my coffee-to-go and walk through nearby Vondelpark.’ Metamaria Hunswijk (34), photographer and sales manager

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 CITYGUIDE _KT_SF.indd 41

18-09-20 09:56

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 16%

Fast Refund is available at selected stores on:

Find out more at globalblue.com

4486_NL_Winter_Magazine_Ad_185x125mm_200901.indd 1

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 42

01/09/2020 13:33

17-09-20 13:56

Day Trips

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

Discover the Amsterdam Area

Week of Industrial Culture

The region along the North Sea Canal, connecting IJmuiden, Beverwijk and the Zaan area, is a beguiling place where Dutch industrial heritage meets modern culture. Experience its unique atmosphere during the ‘Week van Industriecultuur’, an eclectic mix of music, dance, theatre and contemporary industrial activities. Visit the Verkade biscuit factory or discover how the glowing foundries of TataSteel help forge new materials. Elsewhere, unravel old IJmuiden mysteries on a special audio tour, discover the stories of Beverwijk harbour and sing along to Zaan workers’ songs. 10-18 OCTOBER, INDUSTRIECULTUUR.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 43

17-09-20 13:56

Magniﬁcent Beach TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

Windy Walks & Hot Chocolate Although the colder season might not seem like the obvious time to hit the beach, there’s nothing like a day by the sea to blow away the cobwebs.

ust outside Amsterdam lies one of the most unspoilt coastlines in Northern Europe. Go here, as the Dutch do, to relax and get a breath of fresh air, away from the city. Beaches stretch from the north to the south, with typical wide plains of sand. Perfect for long windy walks. And it’s not just the coastal winds that will make their mark: you can discover magnificent landscapes and fascinating wildlife while walking in the nature reserves and Dutch dunes, discover the region’s raw industrial culture, spend some time perched on a pier by the sea watching rare seabirds, or relax in one of the area’s cosy cafes and grab some fresh stroopwafels and a warm hot chocolate to sip on. V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 44

17-09-20 13:56

CLASS 2

Valid until 31-12-2018 Check in and out required with each carrier on every trip

1DAY AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Spot seabirds at IJmuiden IJmuiden boasts vast sand dunes and a three-kilometre-long pier that stretches out into the North Sea. Braving the cold weather is worth the effort because it’s one of the best places in the Netherlands to spot seabirds. From purple sandpipers to rock pipits and turnstones, there’s always an array of creatures gliding through the air and nestling down. After you’ve had your fill of bird spotting you can find refuge in one of the nearby cafes and restaurants to order something warming.

Winter beach walks

Wild Zandvoort In autumn, the dunes of the Waterleidingduinen are the backdrop to a fantastic spectacle: hundreds of fallow deer searching for a mate. The bucks battle to win the hearts of the hinds, sparring with their antlers and belling loudly across the sheltered inlets and windswept hilltops. To witness this unique event, the Zandvoort Tourist Information organises belling walks on Saturdays, Sundays and Wednesdays throughout October.

Wander the unique Dutch landscape of Zuid-Kennemerland National Park or the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen to discover vast, spectacular dunes and wildlife retreats where deer, rabbits and Highland cattle roam. You can explore this protected dune landscape via designated walking routes and cycle paths and there are also opportunities for horse riding. Or, go ‘uitwaaien’ at the beach. Typically Dutch – there’s even a word for it, roughly translated as ‘to walk in the wind and get some fresh air’ – is visiting the beach on a windy, slightly cold day and going for a long walk. Take the dog and the kids for an afternoon, or go on your own to give your mind a rest while the wind gives you rosy cheeks. You will come back feeling relaxed and completely refreshed. NP-ZUIDKENNEMERLAND.NL

ZANDVOORTGOESWILD.NL

1.5

METRES

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

Beach hotspots There are five beach restaurants that are open throughout the winter season along the Zandvoort coastline. Try Tijn Akersloot (tijnakersloot.nl) for a beach-club atmosphere, Club Nautique (clubnautique.nl) for modern Mediterranean food, Beachclub No5 (beachclub5.nl) for a hearty steak dinner, Thalassa (thalassa18.nl) for excellent fish and seafood, or the welcoming atmosphere at De Haven van Zandvoort (dehavenvanzandvoort.nl). Keep in mind that due to corona, restaurants require you to leave your name and number and strictly adhere to social distancing.

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 45

17-09-20 13:56

the Amsterdam area Amsterdam Area 46 | DISCOVER THE REGION

➜...➜ ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

Beyond the City To truly experience Amsterdam, be sure to head out beyond the borders of the city centre and explore the wider Amsterdam Area with these top day trip ideas.

1.5

METRES

De Zwarte Tulp

If you’re missing getting your flower fix during the colder months of the year, then head to Museum De Zwarte Tulp. It’s latest exhibition features paintings by Lita Cabellut, a Spanish-Dutch multidisciplinary artist who lives and works in the Netherlands, the works are all based on the theme of the ‘black tulip’ and inspired by the great masters and thinkers of the Dutch Golden Age.

Het Hem

UNTIL 31 JANUARY, MUSEUMDEZWARTETULP.NL

A former munitions factory and exceptional architectural space now transformed into a cultural centre, Het Hem is home to temporary art exhibitions (named ‘chapters’), museums, restaurants, bars and a house library. For fine food dine at the Europa restaurant or LAB-44, then grab a cocktail and enjoy the evening. HETHEM.NL

Shopping at Batavia Stad

Muiderslot

BATAVIASTAD.NL

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Whether you’re looking to snap up some festive gifts for friends and family or to hunt down discounts, Batavia Stad is the perfect place to shop: it offers iconic brands, discounted goods and a range of options to stock up on delicious food and drinks when you need a break. With more than 250 fashion brands, cafés and restaurants, look out for discount deals on everything from Ralph Lauren to Nike. Visitors from outside the EU can benefit from even more savings by shopping tax-free.

Dubbed ‘Amsterdam Castle’ for its proximity to the Dutch capital, Muiden’s magical castle is more than seven hundred years old, making it one of the Netherlands’ oldest and best-preserved forts. Its beautiful gardens and scenic surroundings only add to its fairy-tale charm. As well as a guided tour that is included in the entrance fee, there are several walking routes around the grounds and special activities throughout the year.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 46

17-09-20 13:56

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

In Lelystad, be sure to see Anthony Gormley’s Exposure, a 26-meter steel figure crouched on the dam that gazes over lake Markermeer.

Waterland

In the colder months, Waterland’s flat polder landscape, expansive fields and old-style stolpboerderijen – farmhouses with unmistakable pyramid roofs – feel more magical than ever. Its endless panoramas are punctuated with charming towns, villages and places that are truly spectacular, including UNESCO World Heritage Site De Beemster’s scenic waterways, dykes, restored mills and traditional farmhouses. Also, don’t forget to head to De Rijp, which has been dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’. LAAGHOLLAND.COM

NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL

Architecture Tour

One of the Netherlands’ newest cities, in just a few decades Almere has established itself as a home to worldclass architecture. Tour some of its most eye-catching buildings and architectural gems on a walking or cycling tour. Along the way you will see the Rainbow District, a colourful residential neighbourhood; De Fantasie, which was built following a contest among architects; and the Rode Donders, a housing development comprising three large, red, silo-like buildings that tower over the water.

Head to this unique nature reserve located between Lelystad and Almere to catch a glimpse of birds, deer, foxes and hares. Nationaal Park Nieuw Land’s expansive fields and wetlands feel almost otherworldly in the colder months, as the days grow darker and a stillness seeps into the landscape. Make sure to stop by De Oostvaarder, the official visitor centre: as well as a café with a panoramic view, there is an exhibition, video room and viewing areas with telescopes looking out across the park.

Nationaal Park Nieuw Land

Cruquius Museum

Built in 1849, Cruquius pumping station is a unique industrial monument. The steam-powered pumps were used to pump Lake Haarlemmermeer dry, marking the breakthrough of the Industrial Revolution in the Netherlands and leaving behind only the flat polder landscape. The pump was decommissioned in 1933 and is now on display in the recently redesigned museum where interactive exhibits explain the history of reclaimed land and Dutch water management. HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

VISITALMERE.COM

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 47

17-09-20 13:56

Amsterdam Area 48 | DISCOVER THE REGION

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

Marken

Dutch adventurers and tourists alike flock to Marken to take in its scenic views and enjoy its rich cultural history. Marken is a peninsula and seaside getaway that offers a chance to glimpse a perfectly preserved fishing culture, including the green wooden houses alongside the harbour that are built on stilts or poles, or clustered on the hills so provide protection from fluctuating tides. To grasp the old islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and people, head to the Marker Museum, or enjoy some freshly caught seafood at one of the local eateries.

Floriworld

Christmas shopping in Haarlem

Haarlem offers everything from cool concept stores to traditional markets and so is the perfect destination to grab some gifts for the whole family during the festive season. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the chance to explore the smaller streets with their unique shops and specialist stores.

For the ultimate flower experience, Floriworld is a must. Discover how plants and flowers impact daily life, take a selfie among a backdrop of blossoming flowers and marvel at the amazing artistic creations handcrafted by expert florists. If you want to take a memento home with you, make sure to bid on a bouquet in the auction hall at the end of the tour. FLORIWORLD.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 DAYTRIPS_SF - KT_MB.indd 48

17-09-20 13:57

Need to Know Where to get your information, how to get around, and other helpful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

I amsterdam City Card

With the I amsterdam City Card 49 you get free access to all major highlights, museums and attractions, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rent. On top of that, you will receive a 25% discount at restaurants and concerts. Order your City Card online or at the I amsterdam locations. Due to the corona regulations you are now required to book time slots before visiting any City Card location or activity.

Public Holidays

I amsterdam

With a selection of quality products from iconic local brands and designers, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and attractions in the city, the I amsterdam locations are your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. • I amsterdam Store Central Station, IJ-side • I amsterdam Visitor Centre Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Check iamsterdam.com for up to date opening hours.

Schools, city councils, post offices, and banks are closed on public holidays, but attractions and sites are sometimes open. Always check the website before your visit. • 25/26 December: Christmas is an official public holiday • 1 January: New Year’s Day is an official public holiday

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/ en for information on all public transport routes. Or, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores.

Good to know: everything and more on offer in the I amsterdam Store is also available in the I amsterdam webshop: iamsterdam.com/webshop

Amsterdam is open again to discover, but stay safe and always adhere to the additional safety regulations. Want to safely enjoy the city? See page 9 for the rules and regulations in Amsterdam and the area during the corona outbreak.

2 CLASS

018 il 31-12-2 d with Valid unt require and out trip Check in er on every each carri

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

1DAY

ERDAM N AMSTR & EGIO L TRAVE TICKET

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centre and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. 1.5 METRES

➜...➜

In Case of Emergency

ENJOY SAFELY, KEEP YOUR DISTANCE

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). ). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 NEED TO KNOW_0 - KT_MB.indd 49

17-09-20 13:55

On the Way Out

50 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘To truly enjoy Amsterdam, you have to go running in Vondelpark at 6 in the morning. It’s so peaceful and spacious!’ Oleg Baranov (36), retail manager from Zaandam, the Netherlands, and Julia Davidenko (36), digital marketer from Nuremberg, Germany

‘Our favourite museum is Moco and we are going back there today to see the Banksy exhibit.’ Elisa Signore (20), student in interior design, and Gabi Robert (21), student in graphic design, both from Paris, France ‘We love visiting the A’DAM Tower for the beautiful, wide views of the whole city.’ Silvanio Leter (43), small business owner, and Genevieve Leter (44), ground stewardess, both from Amsterdam, The Netherlands

‘The 17th century Dutch Golden Age paintings at the Rijksmuseum are the finest in the world!’ Laura Eibel (19), student in photography, and Petra Eibel (55), art historian, both from Vienna, Austria

‘This is my second time visiting Amsterdam and I’ll definitely be going shopping on the streets around Dam Square again, especially Kalverstraat.’ Annie Chopard (28), dental assistant from Tramelan, Switzerland

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Hallie Engel, Jayne Robinson, Steve Korver) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

IAM #10 AUTUMN 2020 NEED TO KNOW_0 - KT_MB.indd 50

17-09-20 13:55

ORE

TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€19.50

€28.00

€36.50

TA D

adv ARTT I amsterdam Magazine voorjaar 2019.indd 2 COVER IAM ZONDER RUG AUTUMN20202_1.indd 51

30-01-19 10:49 10-09-20 15:15

Experience the magic of real and virtual flowers at FloriWorld Challenge your senses and dive into a world of vibrant colours and interactive indoor fun

BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW AT

WWW.FLORIWORLD.NL

200813 ADV IAmsterdam 210x276mm_02.indd 1 COVER IAM ZONDER RUG AUTUMN20202_1.indd 52

02-09-2020 16:04 10-09-20 15:15

I amsterdam Magazine Autumn 2020

Articles inside

Day Trips

What’s On