I amsterdam Magazine Spring 2019

Eat & shop Boozy brunches Good burgers Shops, street to chic

What’s on What

Van Gogh & Hockney Rolling Kitchens Festival Passion concerts

Around town Insider’s guide to Amsterdam + Make the most of the Dutch flower strip

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2019

The Spring Issue Made by Amsterdam Marketing

Have a nice stay

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Vol 2 #2 €4.95

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The most beautiful spring garden in the world Keukenhof is the place to enjoy millions of flowering tulips, daffodils and other bulb flowers this spring. A day full of experiences that you will not forget very quickly. The most beautiful spring garden in the world offers a unique scent and colour experience, over 20 spectacular flower shows, surprising inspirational gardens and many exciting events.

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2019

The Private World of Rembrandt Stadsarchief Amsterdam 7 Dec - 7 Apr 2019

Amsterdam City Archives is bringing the sources and knowledge of Rembrandt together with his art in an entirely new way. The Private World of Rembrandt gives a surprising, intimate picture of the artist’s life.

You could not possibly get any closer to Rembrandt than this. iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019 Glenn Brown, Half-Life 6, 2016 advertentie half liggend.indd 4

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Contents

5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

© KOEN SMILDE

06 Rembrandt Lives On CELEBRATE REMBRANDT YEAR

2019 marks 350 years since Rembrandt’s death – but his influence still exerts itself.

Discover his work for yourself!

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

However long you’re in Amsterdam – a day or a week – we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Whether you’re into boozy brunches, dam(n) good burgers or bars with a twist, we’ve got you covered.

35 What’s On YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA

From the Amsterdam Coffee Festival to Open Tower Day, spring in the city offers something for everyone.

53 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This season’s feature is Zuid, where classy meets cultural. Plus, follow our Tram 3 Tour to experience Amsterdam like a local!

65 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

In spring, it’s all about flowers – don’t miss the chance to see the Netherlands in bloom at the Keukenhof.

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, SEE PAGE 78

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I

f you’ve just arrived in Amsterdam, you cannot have missed the image of Rembrandt as a young man.

The banners and billboards are here to draw your attention to an abundance of events and exhibitions dedicated to the greatest Dutch painter who ever lived, in remembrance of the 350th anniversary of his death. It starts off with All the Rembrandts, an exhibition in the Rijksmuseum, boasting more Rembrandts than ever seen together in one place. But it For more extends far beyond that, information about from the Mauritshuis in Amsterdam, The Hague to the Fries visit our website: iamsterdam.com Museum in the northern province of Friesland. But Amsterdam alone offers more than you can handle. In the Rembrandt House, where the artist lived for almost 20 of his most productive years, you can experience first-hand how he lived and worked. This museum is one of 19 stops along a Rembrandt route through 17th century Amsterdam that played a significant role in his life.

The image on the billboards is simply called ‘Self-portrait’, one of 89 selfportraits that he painted throughout his life. In this one, Rembrandt is only 22 years old. It is a study in chiaroscuro, the technique of extreme contrasts between light and dark that he became known for. Experiencing the intimacy of these self-portraits set in a city almost unchanged from the time he painted them is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Don’t miss it.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

Spring 6 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

Scene from Nightwatching, Peter Greenaway’s 2007 film.

Rembrandt Lives On 350 years after his death, Rembrandt is as alive as ever in Amsterdam – the city that inspired his creative passion – and he continues to influence generations of artists.

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ities around the Netherlands are joining an immense celebration of Rembrandt’s work, life and influence in 2019, which marks the 350th anniversary of his death.

Night Watch restored

© KOEN SMILDE

At the centre of the festivities, Rembrandt’s 1642 masterpiece ‘The Night Watch’ will undergo an extensive restoration in the Rijksmuseum. And this time, every visitor can witness the process. The museum has come up with an innovative procedure that allows visitors to continue to view the painting during the restoration. From July 2019, it will be encased in a glass cham-

ber, designed by French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, as a team of experts research the painting in meticulous detail using advanced computer analysis, and use their findings to restore it to its former glory. Best of all, everyone is welcome to tune into the restoration project online. ‘The Night Watch’ is one of the most revered paintings in the entire art history canon.

Rembrandt broke new ground with his technique and subject matter, telling an evocative story through portraiture, which was traditionally stiff and stoic. Rembrandt arranged his military figures in a loose, ‘energetic’ composition, depicting the characters in action. The artist was

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‘Best of all, everyone is welcome to tune into the restoration project online .’

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Spring

Rembrandt is one of a handful of artists to be known by their first names, perhaps to differentiate himself from others with the popular surname, Van Rijn.

8 | REMBRANDT YEAR

also fearless in his pursuit of exploring new techniques, and inspired countless others with his use of chiaroscuro, or dramatic contrasts between light and shadow. He also favoured honest realism and spared no one’s feelings in his lifelike depictions of bodies, features and emotions when painting portraits, portraying his subjects as realistically as possible: a characteristic not entirely appreciated by his critics or indeed patrons.

The original influencer

Rembrandt supported the income he made from selling paintings by teaching art classes. Some of his students, including Govert Flinck and Ferdinand Bol, became well-respected Dutch artists in their own right. It’s estimated that Rembrandt taught as many as 50 students during his career, meaning that his studio was one of the busiest art enterprises of the 17th century.

However, you needn’t live in the same cen-

tury as Rembrandt to learn from him. Many generations of artists have been influenced by his work – from subject matter to lighting. Several contemporary Dutch photographers are evidence of Rembrandt’s influence continuing to thrive. Hendrik Kerstens’ work emulates Rembrandt’s portraiture in a series of photographs of his daughter, Paula. Margriet Smulders’ theatrical artworks featuring flowers, fabric, water and ink take inspiration from Rembrandt’s dramatic lighting. Rembrandt and other Dutch masters are also noticeable influences in the work of some of the most successful contemporary photographers, such as Carla van de Puttelaar, Desiree Dolron and Hellen van Meene. Furthermore, the term ‘Rembrandt lighting’ is commonly used in modern photography studios, describing a setup using a light and reflector to create

dramatic effect. British artist Glenn Brown is another who took artistic cues from Rembrandt. His playful appropriations of well-known paintings and etchings were showcased in a solo exhibition at the Rembrandt House in 2017.

Considering that Rembrandt completed over 100 self-portraits throughout his career, some commentators have even pointed out that Rembrandt would feel right at home amongst this generation of selfie-takers.

Prominent resident

Aside from the staggering number of exhibitions and events that are part of the 2019 celebrations, there are hundreds of ways to delve into Rembrandt’s connection with the city he called home for most of his career. Walking around Amsterdam, the artist’s legacy is impossible to miss. Rembrandtplein was

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Best-kept secret

Now primarily used for private dining, the Ship Chandler’s Warehouse is referred to as Amsterdam’s best-kept secret. The warehouse dates back to 1624 when it was used to store spices, ceramics and other treasures from global shipping expeditions. Rembrandt lived close by and would often stop in, captivated by the way the afternoon sunlight filtered through the small windows.

SHIPCHANDLERSWAREHOUSE.NL

© KOEN SMILDE

INSIDER TIP

Rembrandt House kids audio tour

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‘Visiting the Rembrandt House transports you to the 17th-century Dutch Golden Age, and Rembrandt’s complex life as an artist, businessman and teacher.

It’s a time machine.’

Glenn Brown (53), artist

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Rembrandt route

Follow in Rembrandt’s footsteps by exploring the locations and museums that illustrate his life and work.

VISIT IAMSTERDAM.COM/REMBRANDTROUTE FOR YOUR MAP

; (8 KM, 4.5 HOUR)

;

q Amsterdam Central

y

Rembrandt House The artist’s home between 1639 and 1658, and now a museum devoted to his life.

s Rembrandt monument Take a photo with the statues of Rembrandt and ‘The Night Watch’.

Where Rembrandt married Saskia van Uylenburgh and where she was later buried.

u Jewish Historical Museum

d The Drapers’ Guild

View an exhibition featuring Rembrandt’s ‘St. Peter in Prison’.

Where the masters of the Drapers’ Guild worked, from the painting of the same name.

e De Waag

i De Blauwbrug (The Blue Bridge) Rembrandt drew the Amstel River from this bridge.

Station Start of the Rembrandt route.

w Oude Kerk (Old Church)

Rembrandt painted ‘The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp’ here when it was an anatomical theatre.

r Trippenhuis (Trip House) Home to the Trip brothers, whose parents Rembrandt painted.

t Zuiderkerk Rembrandt and Saskia buried three of their children here.

spiracy of Claudius Civilis’, for the fomer City Hall, now Royal Palace.

j Bartolotti House

o Six Family House Rembrandt painted a portrait of Jan Six, which is still owned by the family. a Amsterdam City Archives Browse historic deeds and documents, including those of Rembrandt.

Frederick Rihel worked here: the subject of an equestrian portrait by Rembrandt.

k Westerkerk f NH Collection Doelen This hotel was formerly the ‘clubhouse’ used by the militia of the Night Watch.

Rembrandt and his lover Hendrickje Stoffels are buried here, although the exact location is unknown.

g Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal

l Final residence of

Where Rembrandt sketched ‘View of the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal’.

Rembrandt van Rijn Where Rembrandt lived until his death.

h Royal Palace

; Rijksmuseum

Rembrandt painted his largest work, ‘The Con-

Home to ‘The Night Watch’ and other major artworks.

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Spring 10 | REMBRANDT YEAR

© KOEN SMILDE

Fore more details on all things Rembrandt this year, visit rembrandt-2019.nl

named in his honour, where passers-by can pose amid full-scale statues of ‘The Night Watch’, and the artist himself.

Rembrandtpark was dedicated to the artist, and countless street names reference his family and those close to him: Hendrikje Stoffelstraat, Saskia van Uylenburgkade and Titus van Rijnstraat.

Popular culture

Another venture that points to Rembrandt being alive and well in the 21st century is a ‘new’ Rembrandt masterpiece created in 2016 using 3D-printing technology. In the project titled ‘The

Next Rembrandt’, a group of data scientists and developers used pixels from all 346 of Rembrandt’s artworks to produce an entirely new work. The resulting image was a portrait of a man that incorporated Rembrandt’s signature techniques. The artist has also been brought back to life via cinema and the stage. Peter Greenaway’s 2007 film, Nightwatching unveiled the artistic process behind Rembrandt’s most famous masterpiece along with compelling insights into his romantic life.

Rembrandt’s life story was even reimagined for the stage in 2006 for Rembrandt the Musical.

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Children named Rembrandt As far as babies’ names go, Rembrandt remains an unusual choice, according to the Meertens Institute which studies names. Only 203 children born in the Netherlands were named Rembrandt in 2014, with Daan and Sophie taking out the top spots.

Rembrandt merchandise comes in every form imaginable...

Exhibitions and events

11

Spend a night among history

 Rembrandt Privé, Amsterdam City Archives (Amsterdam), until 7 April

The NH Collection Doelen is Amsterdam’s oldest hotel and has a strong connection to Rembrandt’s most famous artwork. The military leaders portrayed in ‘The Night Watch’ used to congregate here during its days as a military base. The word doelen means ‘targets’ in Dutch, in a reference to target practice. Long before it was a hotel, it was home to the original painting – and a replica now stands in its place in the hotel’s Rembrandt Suite.

 Rembrandt & Saskia: Love in the Dutch Golden Age, Fries Museum (Leeuwarden), until 17 March  Rembrandt and the Mauritshuis, Mauritshuis (The Hague), until 15 September  Rembrandt’s Social Network, Rembrandt House (Amsterdam), until 19 May  All the Rembrandts, Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), until 10 June  Dare to Discover – A VR Journey, National Maritime Museum (Amsterdam)

NH-COLLECTION.COM/HOTEL/ NH-COLLECTION-AMSTERDAM-DOELEN

 Inspired by Rembrandt,

Rembrandt House (Amsterdam), 7 June–1 September

 Laboratory Rembrandt, Rembrandt

House (Amsterdam), 21 September 2019–16 February 2020

 Rembrandt's masterpiece from the Israel Museum, Jewish Historical Museum (Amsterdam), 13 September–10 November

 Nicolaes Maes, Mauritshuis (The Hague), 17 October 2019–19 January 2020  Young Rembrandt 1624–1634, Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden), 3 November–9 February 2020

A Rembrandt of your own

As is typical of artists who achieve such high recognition, Rembrandt’s artworks are reproduced for prints, posters and postcards galore. If you don’t have a genuine Rembrandt in your home, you can order the next best thing via companies like Budgetschilderij, a company that produces hand-painted replicas of artworks by Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Monet and more. There’s also a seemingly endless assortment of merchandise and memorabilia for sale. Rembrandt himself was an avid collector of art and exotic artefacts, and his home on Nieuwe Doelenstraat

© NASINE MAAS

 Rembrandt-Velázquez, Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), 11 October 2019–19 January 2020

would have once resembled a museum.

It seems fitting that today, anyone who feels so inclined can fill their homes with Rembrandt-themed stationery and ceramics, carry their groceries in ‘The Jewish Bride’ tote bags, wear ‘The Night Watch’ in the form of socks and baseball caps, and buy their children Rembrandt colouring books and doll’s house-sized printing presses. Whether you brush with Rembrandt toothpaste, smoke Rembrandt cigars, collect hand-blown Rembrandt glassworks or use the Rembrandt brand of Royal Talens paints in your own masterpieces, there are references to the artist’s name all around.

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‘Rembrandt turned the art world of the Golden Age upside down, but even after three-and-ahalf centuries his compelling art and epic life story INSIDER TIP continue to inspire and move us. ’ Erik Hinterding, curator of All the Rembrandts

Over the years, die-hard enthusiasts have committed the artist’s works to their bodies, in the form of Rembrandt tattoos. There’s even a shade of tattoo ink known as Rembrandt Red. Rembrandt made an indelible impression on the art world, changing the course of art history through his relentless pursuit of the new. Although Amsterdam has come a long way since the Dutch Golden Age, the culture of creativity and forward-thinking open mindedness have continued – a sign that Rembrandt still walks among us.

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LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

DUCH NATIONAL OPERA GIRLS OF THE GOLDEN WEST Heroism in a hardscrabble world 1 28 Februari – 17 March –

FIN DE PARTIE Down to the essence 6 March – 10 March –

TANNHAUSER

Saint or sinner: venus vs. Elisabeth – 6 April – 1 May

DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET SWANLAKE Ballet of Ballets

16 March – 2 June

Free lunch concerts Every Tuesday – Guided tours Every Saturday operaballet.nl

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Twelve Hours Twenty-four Hours Forty-eight Hours Seventy-two+ Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72+ hours

Cruise the canals

© MILANJA JOVANOV

See the sights from the best seat in the house – on board a boat. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day via iamsterdam.com/canalcruise or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card. Alternatively, a stroll around Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is a pleasure at any time of year – especially in spring.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Your Trip

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14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

hours in Amsterdam

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZE

How to spend your time in…

Relax on a terrace

Make the most of mid-afternoon sunshine, and sample Dutch beer and local delicacies like bitterballen outdoors. You’ll find excellent terrace bars in every neighbourhood, from traditional Dutch ‘brown cafés’ to hip rooftop cocktail bars.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Surround yourself in culture

DURATION: 2 HOURS

© STÅLE GRUT

Browse the markets

Immerse yourself in vintage clothing, antique treasures and locally grown produce at Amsterdam’s markets.

The Waterlooplein flea market is a great place to pick up bric-a-brac, while the famous Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp has an impressive selection of food. Both are open Monday to Saturday.

© SIMON TREL

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

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If you have time to take in a major museum, experience the ever-changing exhibitions at the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk Museum (all free with the I amsterdam City Card).

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

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© DANIEL FARREL

Wander the historic Canal Ring for the most picturesque glimpses of Amsterdam life.

In springtime, the streets are scattered with fallen leaves from the elm trees, known locally as ‘spring snow’.

Spot the tulips

You have to look a little closer to find Amsterdam’s iconic flower in urban environments. The Tulip Festival in April changes that by putting luscious tulips on display in public gardens, outside museums and around historic monuments.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Picnic underneath the blossoming trees in the Amsterdamse Bos, Amsterdam’s bucolic forest.

© JEROEN HOFFMAN

© KOEN SMILDE

Surround yourself with blossom

DURATION 1-2 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

© ANDREÉ P. MEIJER VITALI

Spring snow

Get into the Dutch spirit

At the end of a long day discovering Amsterdam, it’s time to disappear into one of the city’s many ‘brown cafés’ – traditional Dutch pubs – to mingle with the locals, drink some Amsterdam beers and try some genever, the Netherlands’ traditional, gin-like liqueur.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Eat sustainably

Reduce your ecological footprint by dining at one of the city’s eco-conscious eateries. Café de Ceuvel in Amsterdam Noord focuses on sustainability and home-grown ingredients, while Instock makes delicious creations from surplus food that would otherwise be wasted.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

© KOEN SMILDE

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Your Trip 48

Cycle along the Amstel River and admire the countryside, and grand houses once owned by wealthy merchants.

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

Check out prestigious addresses

© MARJOLEIN VAN DER KL AAUW

hours in Amsterdam

Delve into the history of life on the canals at the Museum of the Canals (Het Grachtenhuis), or get to know the Keizersgracht canal’s most famous residents at Museum Van Loon (both free with the I amsterdam City Card.

Play to win

Bring out your competitive streak with a game of boules. Mooie Boules in Amsterdam Oost combines the traditional French game (similar to bowls) with drinks, dancing, live music and even a mini food hall with six delicious offerings, from pho to poké bowls.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get creative at NDSM

DURATION: 3 HOURS

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Explore the Jordaan & Nine Streets

A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard-perfect slice of Amsterdam.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

© MERIJN ROUBROEKS

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

© PETER KOOIJMAN

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Hop across the IJ River (via the free ferry behind Central Station) to the arty NDSM neighbourhood. You’ll see murals and graffiti art, converted shipping containers, a huge artists’ residence and more. Don’t forget to stop for a drink at Pllek.

Introduce your little explorers to baby goats, lambs and chickens in one of Amsterdam’s petting zoos – located in neighbourhoods and parks throughout the city.

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© HAARLEM MARKETING DE DAKKAS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get a taste of Haarlem

72 Following the global trend for rooftop bars, Amsterdam offers some truly beautiful vistas that pair perfectly with a cocktail or local craft beer.

Head up to MA’DAM, W Lounge, Floor17, Hopp or Canvas, preferably at sunset.

© KOEN SMILDE

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

See the flower fields

DURATION: 2 HOURS

hours or more

The Amsterdam area comes alive in spring, bursting with blooms in every colour of the rainbow. This is the time of year to cycle through the brightly striped region where 70% of the world’s flowers are grown. Don’t miss a visit to Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse: a gigantic 32-hectare park dedicated to the national flower. This year’s theme is Flower Power – expect peace signs, hippie references and 1970s-inspired floral sculptures.

DURATION: 4 HOURS

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© KEENAN BARBER

Get a head for heights

With a high density of restaurants and cafés, Haarlem is the perfect destination for a dinner excursion. It’s only 20 minutes on the train from Amsterdam and you’ll find every type of cuisine imaginable.

Hey Amsterdam, /whats-on The ultimate guide to discover what’s on in Amsterdam.

iamsterdam.com/whats-on

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Dutch Food 2.0 Med-led Restaurants Bars with an Extra Scenic Shopping Dam(n) Good Burgers Dining Out Southern Chic Boozy Brunches Best Blooms Central Shopping

Where to indulge in Amsterdam La Lotteria

From the local, seasonal ingredients used in the kitchen to the collabs with food waste-busters, hiring practices that provide opportunities to the socially disadvantaged, and the fully sustainable building and décor, everything’s green at the new Italian restaurant of the Dutch Postcode Lottery, which puts the ‘table’ back in charitable.

© IVO GESKUS

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 200 LALOTTERIA.THECOLOURKITCHEN.COM

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Eat

Traditionally served with butter, ham and egg, look out for white asparagus – the Netherlands’ so-called ‘white gold’ – on menus across town.

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

So Dutch Afternoon Tea

Hotel De L’Europe’s new So Dutch Afternoon Tea presents classic Dutch flavours with finesse. Served on traditional Heinen Delftware with views of the Amstel River, highlights include beef consommé with mini ham and cheese toasties, fluffy raisin buns with honey butter, Advocaat mousse ‘cheese’ cubes, veal bitterballen (small, round croquettes), apple pie, and canal house gingerbread biscuits, served with a selection of Dammann teas (Thursday–Sunday, €39).

NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 DELEUROPE.COM

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Polaberry’s Dutch strawberries dipped in premium ruby chocolate have become a hit with the Insta-crowd (boxes from €19/bouquets from €60).

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PRINSENGRACHT 232, POLABERRY.COM

101 Gowrie

A

s little as a decade ago, there was a dearth of Dutch restaurants in Amsterdam, with only a smattering of tourist traps, some better than others. But with at least three new Dutch restaurants opening in the past year (see below) and a recent Low Food Symposium, which aims to create a ‘Dutch food revolution’, times are changing. ‘We have everything we need to make it happen: a wealth of good products and talented young chefs,’ says chef Joris Bijdendijk, one of the initiators. One of these up-and-comers is Alex Haupt. Fresh off Netflix’s The Final Table, his buzzy new restaurant 101 Gowrie combines the chef-owner’s Antipodean upbringing, Eurasian roots and inspiration from his adoptive land to create a ‘New Dutch Cuisine’.

Of course, celebrating Dutch flavours isn’t novel, and similar terms like the ‘New Dutch Kitchen’ are well-used. In fact, pioneers like De Kas, Merkelbach, Wilde Zwijnen and Bolenius* (and, more recently, RIJKS* and Floreyn) are passionate purveyors of pure local flavours and seasonal products. And there’s no better time to try a cuisine that places local produce on a pedestal than right now, in the spring, when a treasure-trove of creamy Limburgian asparagus and delicious Dutch strawberries await you.

© KIRTSEN VAN SANTEN

As a trading nation with adventurous appetites, the Dutch traditionally placed little value on their native cuisine. That is, until recently.

GOVERT FLINCKSTRAAT 326 101GOWRIE.COM

Carstens

This new establishment by Central Station gives brasserie classics a Dutch twist in delicious dishes like kale Caesar salad (€12), VOC-spice rubbed goat shoulder (€22), and Baambrugge pork cheek stew (€19).

HASSELAERSSTEEG 1 CARSTENSBRASSERIE.NL

© THUSKOMME

Dutch Food 2.0

Alex Haupt’s menu (from €48 for three courses) includes dishes like potato pancakes with sour cream and Dutch caviar, Jerusalem artichoke and green onions, and a dessert with cocoa, blackcurrant and ceps.

Thuskomme © RINZE VEGELIEN

A meal at this welcoming Frisian specialist feels like a ‘homecoming’.

Expect wild hand-picked Vlieland oysters with Wadden vodka (€3), platters of Pingjum charcuterie (€8), and Kobunder cheese fondue (€15).

BATJANSTRAAT 1A THUSKOMME.NL

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Eat & Drink 22 | MEDITERRANEAN ESCAPES

Cava specialist Xampanyeria Centra is the best reason to visit the Red Light District. Go for one of the dozen cavas or bubbly-based drinks, and stay for tapas.

LANGE NIEZEL 29 XAMPANYERIACENTRAL.NL

Kop van Oost

Next to the iconic De Gooyer windmill is a glass-walled structure with a bright interior and modern Mediterranean menu.

There’s also a wonderful waterside terrace should the weather play nice.

ZEEBURGERPAD 1 DEKOPVANOOST.COM

Med-led Restaurants

STADIONPLEIN 8 NENI-AMSTERDAM.NL

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ZA

Situated in the upcoming Houthavens, this glitzy recent opening ‘takes guests on a modern Mediterranean journey’ and it’s quite the trip. While there are pizza and sirloin, it’s the veg-led dishes, like tabbouleh of hand-rolled couscous with marinated pumpkin, beech mushroom, kanzi apple and crispy chicken skin (pictured, €12) that steal the show. © @MOKUMISTA

NENI

The Eastern Mediterranean formula famous from Vienna to Berlin just opened in a former Citroën garage Zuid-side, where there’s an allday restaurant, bakery-café, and bar.

Imagine everything from green shakshuka (herb-topped eggs on roast veg, with crème fraiche and crusty bread, pictured, €10) and sabich (fried aubergine, tahini, pickled mango, egg, and tomato-coriander salad on fresh flatbread, €13) to full-on family-style mezze feasts. © NENI

If warmer spring weather is slow on the uptake, these pan-Mediterranean eateries can transport you from the rainy streets of Amsterdam to sunnier climes.

Should it be unseasonably hot, however, this is what you’ll be wanting to eat, too.

DANZIGERKADE 4 ZA-AMSTERDAM.COM

Do try Bar Karakter’s fried bao with mango ice cream and miso caramel sauce (€4.50).

Wanna Play?

Amsterdam bars have upped their game by providing punters with the opportunity to play.

S

o-called ‘slash-bars’ (think cafécum-karaoke den or bar-slash-game hall) are the city’s hottest nightlife trend, and hip karaoke bars are calling the tune. At Duke of Tokyo (pictured) there are eight private karaoke booths (from €12 pp for two hours) with Japanese-themed cocktails and bar snacks. Bar Karakter has two private karaoke rooms (from €22.50 pp for an hour and a half, including drinks) and Asian bar

bites. While Chin Chin Club boasts a large karaoke party room (from €200 per hour), a Chinese restaurant with table tennis, three bars with craft beers, wine and cocktails, and a nightclub. Arcade bar TonTon Club offers old-school and Japanese arcade games, board games and an air hockey club across three locations. And, triple-threat Mooie Boules combines a bar and street food hall with boules courts.

DUKE OF TOKYO, REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT 37, DUKEOFTOKYO.COM * BAR KARAKTER, DE CLERCQSTRAAT 75, BAR-KARAKTER.NL * CHIN CHIN CLUB, ROZENGRACHT 133, CHINCHINCLUB.NL * TONTON CLUB/PUCK, VARIOUS LOCATIONS, TONTONCLUB.NL * MOOIE BOULES, ZEEBURGERPAD 3, MOOIEBOULES.NL

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© JANNEKE NOOIJ

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24 | PRETTY SHOPPING PARADISE

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerstraat/dijk

Shopping Paradise Spring is the perfect season to explore the canal-side shops and winding lanes of Amsterdam’s most scenic shopping area.

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ith doll-like houses dotted along Golden Age canals, this part of the city is a pleasure to discover on foot. You’ll find a spectacular range of premium fashion boutiques and speciality shops selling Dutch design, modern art, local jeans, artisan food, handmade jewellery, hip homewares and vintage everything in the famous Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’ that connect the main canals). The same can be said for the Jordaan and the Haarlemmerstraat/dijk, though parts still offer glimpses of a working-class past. Tip: the area is famous for its organic Farmer’s Markets (Noordermarkt on Saturdays, Haarlemmerplein on Wednesdays).

Why not see the world through rose-tinted glasses?

(Alina Peach, €49 at KOMONO) ELANDSGRACHT 59 KOMONO.COM

Verse

This canal-side boutique is wellversed in collecting sustainable local and international lifestyle labels, clean beauty products and ethical fashion for him and her. Think recycled plastic raincoats, organic cotton tees, unisex wool flat caps, scented beeswax candles, vegan beauty products, bamboo toothbrushes, and natural garment care products.

PRINSENGRACHT 581 VERSEGOODSTORE.COM

Chocolátl

If Easter isn’t the only time you splurge on chocolate (though you’ll find the world’s best Easter treats here too) this premium ‘chocolate gallery’ is well worth a look. The focus is on artisanal, single-origin chocolate bars from niche brands like Krak, Pralus and Solkiki.

HAZENSTRAAT 25A CHOCOLATL.NL

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Dutch beauty brand SMPL’s all-natural skin boosting serum gives a gorgeous glow, guaranteed (€49 at Verse).

PRINSENGRACHT 581, VERSEGOODSTORE.COM

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Sanskrit for ‘joy of life’, this slow fashion and home accessories label provides a ‘fair and stable income’ to the craftspeople in India and Nepal who handmake its earth-hued items from natural materials. You’ll also find selected brands like FANT, Julia Otilia and Humanoid here.

HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 110 SUKHA.NL

© @MOKUMISTA

Sukha

INSIDER INTERVIEW

© @MOKUMISTA

Margaux Spruyt (29), co-founder of I.Ma.Gi.N Jewels

Fabulously affordable gemstone rings and bracelets in white, yellow and rose gold (from €49 at I.Ma.Gi.N Jewels).

RUNSTRAAT 29 IMAGINJEWELS.COM

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

© @MOKUMISTA

Elandsgracht

On this former canal populated by a colourful mix of restaurants, cafés, and statues of Jordanese folk musicians, you’ll find various antique stores including the famous Antiekcentrum Amsterdam, as well as patisseries, an organic butcher, a trendy sneaker store, but also specialists in wine, vitamins, paint, pianos and office supplies.

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‘I come from a family who are in the high-end jewellery business, and as a young woman I thought it was unfair that I couldn’t afford to buy that kind of jewellery myself. So I wanted to make something beautiful and timeless that’s also quality – at a good pricepoint. Our affordability means that women – and even young girls – can buy something for themselves without having to wait for a special occasion.

Amsterdam was a logical choice for our first store outside Belgium, and it was always a dream to be in the Negen Straatjes, where we could serve both locals and tourists. With its mix of boutiques, perfumeries, food stores and florists, Runstraat actually feels very similar to the Antwerp street where we opened the first of our seven Belgian stores, so we feel right at home here.’

RUNSTRAAT 29 IMAGINJEWELS.COM

Eat

In related news, the broodje kroket (meaty croquette meets fluffy breadroll, €3.15) from Eetsalon van Dobben is terribly tasty too.

KORTE REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT 5-9 EETSALONVANDOBBEN.NL

26 | HUNGRY FOR HAMBURGERS

Dam(n) Good Burgers In a city that takes its burgers seriously, there are options for every pattie person: from the essential bacon-cheeseburger and fast-food inspired chicken slider to fancy lobster rolls and even seriously good meatless jobs.

If you like your burgers dirty – i.e. loaded with all the good stuff – and you have a hearty appetite, the ‘Rebel Waltz’ is hard to beat: two 100g beef patties, house-smoked bacon, onion marmalade, garlic mayo and American cheese on a lightly toasted bun (€12).

Or go ‘Straight to Hell’ with habanero-tarragon relish, smoked mayo, pink onions and mature cheddar on beef (€10.50). Wash it down with a limited-edition craft beer.

Rotisserie East

© @MOKUMISTA

The Beef Chief @ Oedipus

© @MOKUMISTA

Brut de Mer

GERARD DOUPLEIN 8 BRUTDEMER.NL

BEUKENPLEIN 17 ROTISSERIEAMSTERDAM.NL

Thrill Grill

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 85 OEDIPUS.COM/FOOD

What do you get when you put half a lobster, fennel salad and lobster mayo on an English muffin? A lobster roll (€20) that you’ll want to get your claws into.

This rôtisseur takes the junk out of ‘junk food’ by using quality ingredients and making everything (even the sauces, pickles and buns) from scratch.

The Fried Chicken Bun (€10.50) with lettuce, pickles and mayo is detour-worthy. Think KFC, only better. Plus, they have a good selection of craft beers and cocktails.

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Vegans with carnivorous cravings, this one’s for you.

The ‘Lisa’s Vegan Thriller’ burger (€10.50) – made with a ‘Beyond Meat’ pea-based patty, rocket and avocado on a vegan bun with a touch of tangy mango curry – tastes almost as good as the real thing. Not bad at all for a 100% plant-based effort.

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 98 THRILLGRILL.NL

© @MOKUMISTA

The house wines, which are especially made in the south of France for Hotel De L’Europe, feature charming labels with a line-drawn map of the neighbourhood.

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Gallic Gastronomy

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t’s the traditional French kitchen, using modern techniques, says Executive Chef Tjaco van Eijken, explaining that he uses almost no salt and lighter sauces. Signature dishes include a perfectly executed pâté en croute and pan-fried seabass with potato confit, fennel and bouillabaisse sauce. Many dishes, like the steak tartare and baba au rhum (made with a local salted, spiced rum) are finished table-side, adding a welcome bit of food theatre. Do order

the punchy Provençal-style vineyard snails and, if you like it rich, the lobster vol au vent with veal sweetbreads, girolles, baby gem and tarragon oil. Or, if you fancy a French take on mac ‘n’ cheese, try the coquillettes with farmer’s ham, Comté cheese and black truffle.

Tip: have the three-course BIB Gourmand menu (€37) out on the 200-seat riverside terrace.

HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 HOOFDSTADBRASSERIE.NL

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© @MOKUMISTA

The new menu at Hoofdstad Brasserie has reverted to classic French cuisine – it just makes sense at this Grand Tour-era hotel – with Gallic favourites like plateau de fruits de mer (pictured).

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© TILTIL

Handmade ceramic tiger planter from Things I Like Things I Love (€22.99 excl. plant).

CEINTUURBAAN 69 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM

28 | SOUTHERN CHIC

Edha Interieur

Shop classic design furniture brands such as Cassina, Knoll, Vitra and Flos at this Oud-Zuid institution, which has built a solid 50-year reputation for service. Edha Interieur boasts the Netherlands’ only Baxter flagship store and B&B Italia shop-in-shop, and exciting exclusives such as the collection of fabrics, throws and cushions designed by Raf Simons for Kvadrat.

WILLEMSPARKWEG 5-9 EDHA-INTERIEUR.NL

ENNU

© @MOKUMISTA

Lovers of avant-garde luxury men’s and women’s fashion (think brands like Haider Ackermann, Maison Margiela, Rick Owens and Sacai) should

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter • De Pijp

Chic Shopping Home to the Netherlands’ most famous museums, this area is also one of its most interesting shopping destinations.

Z

uid offers it all, from much-admired Old Masters to the latest collections of the world’s most famous fashion houses, as well as deluxe designer furniture shops and trendy concept stores. The Museum District is the area to flash your cash, while Cornelis Schuytstraat is dotted with more avant-garde and niche luxury

fashion boutiques as well as artisanal specialists. Meanwhile, bargain shoppers and trend lovers mustn’t miss adjacent De Pijp, where the century-old Albert Cuyp Market contrasts its surrounding shopping streets stacked with super hip shops.

Tip: the ZuiderMRKT farmer’s market on Saturdays is a must-visit for foodies.

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make a beeline for this exclusive Zuid-based boutique.

The shop’s name is an amalgam of the Dutch words en (and) and nu (now), implying that once you’ve swiped your AmEx Black here, anything could happen.

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 15 ENNU.NL

Undercover wellingtons in red (€225 at Ennu).

Terminally ill kids can now wish upon a star thanks to a collab between jewellery label RIJKJE and the Make-A-Wish foundation (from €44.95 at De Roos).

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 183 ROOS.NL

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Cottoncake

This serene concept store is home to fashion brands like Samsoe & Samsoe and Sita Murt, minimalist Monocrafft jewellery and Sessun bags. Upstairs is a tiny café, where you can enjoy healthy all-day breakfasts. There’s also a house line of perfumes and candles, including the warm, woodsy April Haze with its hint of florals, ‘an omen of summer to come’.

EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 76 COTTONCAKE.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

@ CATHELIJNE VD L ANDE

Simone van Trojen (49), founder and CEO of LaDress

BEST HIGH-END SHOPPING STREET:

P.C. Hooftstraat

Recent arrivals on Amsterdam’s poshest shopping street – colloquially known as the ‘P.C.’ (pronounced ‘pay-say’) – include Isabel Marant, Furla and Christian Louboutin. For high-end thrills of the cerebral kind head to sleek bookshop TASCHEN, which we’re sure would’ve appealed to the street’s namesake P.C. Hooft, a poet and playwright.

‘In a way, opening our flagship store here felt like a homecoming because I used to live only steps away. The architecture, the artisanal boutiques and the people all radiate true beauty to me. It may be only one cute little street but you can shop e-very-thing you need here! My favourites are De Gouden Ton for wine, Menno Kroon for flowers, Mulder for books and Babassu for the best beauty buys. You’ll often find me lunching at nearby De Joffers with my kids, Lise (15) and Beau (14). At LaDress, finding the perfect dress for every occasion is our metaphor for female empowerment. The LaDress woman is aware of what goes on in the world; she lives a busy life but likes to look and feel good. This spring, I’ll be living in the long, bohemian skirts with matching blouses from our vibrant new collection.’

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 39 LADRESS.COM

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Choose from five cocktails (the rum punch, pictured, was our favourite), various juices, wines and beer at Persijn – it’s all included!

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30 | SLOW SUNDAYS START HERE

Boozy Brunches Once upon a time, all Amsterdam brunch spots seemed to have Antipodean owners. And some are still going strong, like Bakers & Roasters and Little Collins. But brunching’s become well-entrenched, and new concepts are inviting slower Sunday afternoon indulgence, often with drink-inclusive menus.

Persijn

AMSTELVLIETSTRAAT 4 PERSIJN.NL

Bluespoon Restaurant & Bar

Spot the Alice in Wonderland references in this blue-hued restaurant designed by Dutch icon Marcel Wanders. ‘European flavours flirt with a Dutch edge’ in an amuse-bouche, followed by an à la carte main and generous dessert plates at the Mad Hatter’s Brunch (€59, including bottomless bubbly, Sundays 12.30–4 pm).

© @MOKUMISTA

Order as many tipples and plates as you fancy at Persijn’s Unlimited Boozy Brunch (€49, every first Sunday of the month, from 12–3 pm). Take your time to tuck into seasonal fruit salad and Dutch apple pancakes, or start with oysters followed by succulent free-range chicken with corn sabayon.

PRINSENGRACHT 587 HYATT.COM/ANDAZ-AMSTERDAM

Brooks Boozy Brunch

Mr. Porter

© KUBIL AY ALTINTAS

Yes you can enjoy boozy brunches with kids in tow.

Brooks has a kids’ activity table complete with nannies and child-friendly foods, so you can enjoy some much-needed adult time with eggs Benny and cocktails (Sundays, 11am– 4 pm). Cheers to that!

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 43 BROOKSAMSTERDAM.NL

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Toast to the Sunday Roast at W Amsterdam. Choose from a 21-day-aged Scottish beef sirloin or slow-roasted local leg of pork, which come with crispy roast potatoes, tender-stem broccoli, roast baby veg, Yorkshire pudding and gravy (from €32).

SPUISTRAAT 175 MRPORTERSTEAKHOUSE.COM

Established in 1898, Flowershop Ivy is still admired for its exuberant displays, creating everything from classic English posies to minimalist arrangements inspired by the ‘circle of nature’.

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LEIDSEPLEIN 35 IVY.NL

Blooming Marvellous Where to buy the best blooms for your room.

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roducing over 70% of the world’s commercial flowers, it’s little surprise that the Netherlands is synonymous with flowers. In springtime, you needn’t go far to admire purple hyacinths, pink crocuses and cherry blossoms, yellow daffodils and rainbow-hued tulips. You’ll see them along city streets and in various parks and gardens. But it takes more than just a premium supply to master floral design. Whether you’re looking for a Mother’s Day bouquet or simply want to brighten up your abode, a visit to the city’s best florists will have you come up smelling of roses (or tulips).

For colourful arrangements with creative flair, Art & Flowers (artandflowers.nl) lives up to its name. Menno Kroon (mennokroon.nl) offers eccentric arrangements that combine bold colours with a ‘seductive scent language’.

Meanwhile, subscription-based online bouquet delivery service Bloomon purchases the blooms for its trendy bouquets (pictured, from €19.95, bloomon.nl) directly from growers, cutting costs and ensuring optimal freshness.

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Eau d’Amsterdam, perfume inspired by the city’s elm trees in spring (€58 at matter .of material).

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32 | CENTRAL SHOPPING

Shopping District: Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat• Czaar Peterstraat

Centre of Attention If you know where to look, you’ll find so much more than just the chain stores in Centrum.

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entrum’s where it’s at if you’re on the hunt for the perfect outfit, something sweet for Easter or an original Amsterdam souvenir. You could, of course, join the mobs on perennially popular Kalverstraat, where you’ll find all the flagship stores and fast fashion outlets. But lesser-known shopping streets like Czaar Peterstraat and Utrechtsestraat offer a calmer experience and infinitely cooler mix of independent retailers, food specialists and hospitality concepts. If the weather’s not playing along, head to premium department stores Hudson’s Bay or de Bijenkorf where you can get your tax-free retail therapy fix under one roof.

matter .of material

This contemporary design store focuses on innovative (predominantly Dutch) design.

From coffee cups crafted from recycled coffee grounds to crumpled paper lamps, bags ‘100% made from trees’, and a perfume inspired by Amsterdam’s enchanting elms, every product here is produced with the utmost care for its chosen materials.

KERKSTRAAT 163 MATTEROFMATERIAL.COM

Stach

Enjoy Easter Amsterdamstyle with STACH’s witty handmade Easter eggs in flavours like gin & tonic, lemon-poppy seed and salty peanut butter (from €0.99 each).

Jamin

Kalverstraat’s motto is ‘Shop. Never Stop.’, so keep that (sugar) rush going at this colourful candy store. Established in 1883, Jamin is now the Netherlands’ biggest confectionary chain, featuring ceiling-high silos stuffed with Dutch sweets, giant gummy bears, supersized rainbow lollies, and candy from America and Japan.

KALVERSTRAAT 39 JAMIN.NL

VARIOUS LOCATIONS STACH-FOOD.NL

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

Silver Portrait Store This Mae & Ivy crossbody bag (€39.95, available at We are Labels) has King’s Day cachet.

RAADHUISSTRAAT 46-50 WEARELABELS.COM

Using a modern take on traditional 19th-century techniques, the portrait photographers at this singular photo studio create haunting images (from €175) that make for one-of-a-kind mementos. Settle in front of the large, black classic camera – full attention is paid to the perfect lighting and setup – and watch your portrait develop on the plate in the darkroom, before choosing your size and frame.

UTRECHTSEDWARSSTRAAT 87 SILVERPORTRAITSTORE.NL

BEST UPCOMING SHOPPING STREET:

© MOKUMISTA

Raadhuisstraat

Named after the City Hall (now Royal Palace) at its eastern end, this 19th-century street with its imposing Neoclassical buildings and monumental Jugendstil shopping gallery is slowly restoring to former glories with the arrival of international fashion, furniture and concept stores such as Won Hundred, Bolia, Kauf Dich Glücklich and We are Labels.

Heidi Olijerhoek, founder of city spa and niche perfumery Babassu Amsterdam, winner of ‘Best Spa 2018’ in the Dutch Beauty Awards ‘Our second Amsterdam location, which opened in February, is located on Spuistraat; a nice mix of old and new, with coffeeshops, graffiti and the famous squatting house ‘Vrankrijk’, but also the W Hotel and Soho House, as well as hair salons, restaurants, sophisticated stores and everything from vintage to modern design.

We offer signature treatments of the beautiful Italian label Santa Maria Novella and the organic skincare brand Tata Harper, both unique in the Netherlands. Our beauty boutique is a true cosmetics paradise, where you’ll find iconic brands with a story, including exclusives like By Terry, Nudestix, Miller Harris and Lorenzo Villoresi. It’s a concept that appeals to cosmopolitan men and women who take good care of themselves and want to discover new and exciting cosmetics, fragrances and treatments.’

SPUISTRAAT 207 BABASSU.NL

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iamsterdam.com/citycard

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 38 39 42 44 45 46 48 49 50

Exhibitions Collections Festivals & Events On Stage On Screen Classical Pop & Rock LGBTI Clubbing Family Fun

King’s Day

© CRIS TAOL A OLIVARES

The population of Amsterdam doubles on the King’s birthday, as thousands of orange-clad revellers flood the city’s streets, squares and canals for one of the world’s biggest street parties. With openair flea markets, outdoor festivals, boozy boat trips and family fun, there’s a Koningsdag (King’s Day) celebration for everyone.

27 APRIL, CIT Y-WIDE

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Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Masterpieces from the Hermitage

and Rome through to paintings by modern masters such as Matisse, Rembrandt and Velázquez, you can anticipate an element of surprise. Don’t expect a traditional linear approach as works from widely different times and places will be presented alongside each other.

DAVID HOCKNEY, © RICHARD SCHMIDT

© STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM

Hermitage Amsterdam celebrates its ten-year anniversary in 2019. Treasury! is the first of two exhibitions taking place this year that will feature a range of masterpieces from the St. Petersburg State Hermitage’s comprehensive collection. With works from Ancient Egypt, Classical Greece

Hockney – Van Gogh: The Joy of Nature

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rawing parallels between the work of David Hockney and Vincent van Gogh is what this bold exhibition is all about. Inspired by nature, Hockney’s use of bright colour is not only masterful but pays homage to Van Gogh’s influence on his work. For both artists it’s about looking at what’s in front of them and transforming that into compelling imagery. Hockney – Van Gogh: The Joy of Nature presents masterpieces by Van Gogh juxtaposed with multi-paneled works by Hockney, including his imposing Yorkshire landscapes and key work ‘The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate’.

UNTIL 25 AUGUST HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

1 MARCH–26 MAY, VAN GOGH MUSEUM

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ERWIN BLUMENFELD Influential German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld is the subject of Foam’s latest exhibition, featuring this fashion maestro’s colour photography work.

Fascinated by the mystery of reality, Blumenfeld strived to reveal it through his interest in the female body and death, two of his main sources of inspiration.

OUDE KERK Hailing from Canada, artist duo Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller’s interactive sound-based work in the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is an enveloping experience where visitors contribute through the sounds they make. It’s also a great chance to see the recently restored, world-famous Vater-Müller Organ.

UNTIL 14 APRIL, FOAM

UNTIL 29 APRIL, OUDE KERK

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Beethoven Symphony ‘Pastorale’

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Sat 9, Sun 10 March Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

If you’re after a fresh perspective on Michelangelo’s works then you’re in for real treat with A Different View – featuring photo-mechanically reproduced copies of his famous works, many at original scale.

UNTIL 12 MAY, BEURS VAN BERLAGE

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© THOMAS P PESCHAK

Longing for Mecca

World Press Photo

Every April, World Press Photo presents its new exhibition showcasing the very best in visual journalism from across the globe.

Challenging and compelling stories unfold through cutting-edge photography with Amsterdam’s atmospheric Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) providing the perfect location for deep reflection.

Comprising a special collection, a VR experience and personal stories from Dutch pilgrims, Longing for Mecca takes you to one of the most sacred places on Earth.

Gain insights into one of the greatest religious, spiritual and cultural phenomena in the world through an array of pieces from the tenth century to the present day.

ONGOING, TROPENMUSEUM

FROM 13 APRIL, NIEUWE KERK

Daniel Arsham

Kati Horna

UNTIL 30 SEPTEMBER, MOCO MUSEUM

FROM 3 MARCH, COBRA

New York artist Daniel Arsham’s retrospective, Connecting Time, showcases the artist’s work across multiple disciplines, including architecture, design, sculpture, film and performance. The exhibition features installations such as ‘Amethyst Ball Cavern’ and ‘Eroded Wall Paper Room’ that take the viewer into an alternate reality where everything is not as it seems.

Fascinated by pop culture, Arsham considers cultural and fitness-related objects, playing with ideas of erosion and archaeology in new and exciting ways.

Hungarian-Mexican photographer Kati Horna lived in turbulent times, fleeing Germany and France to take up residence in Mexico City. Her staged and poetic images are influenced by Surrealism while showing the consequences of war on daily life. Not only is it the first showing of her work in the Netherlands, but also the first photography exhibition at CoBrA.

MARIA LASSNIG Austrian artist Maria Lassnig is internationally renowned for her body awareness paintings that challenge perceptions of portraiture with their uncompromising compositions. Featuring never-before-seen works, paintings, drawings, sculptures and films, this show sheds light on this fascinating artist from the 20th century.

COBRA 70 The CoBrA movement was founded in Paris 70 years ago, bringing together artists and poets from European countries. It was all about artistic freedom and spontaneity as a counterbalance to the nightmare of war. The movement caused quite a stir in the Netherlands, with works described as scribble, clap-trap and splotches.

ALL THE REMBRANDTS The Rijksmuseum’s All the Rembrandts exhibition will showcase the museum’s entire collection of Rembrandt works for the first time. That’s about 22 paintings, 60 drawings and some 300 of his best prints.

FROM 6 APRIL, STEDELIJK

UNTIL 2 JUNE, COBRA

UNTIL 10 JUNE, RIJKSMUSEUM

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Collections 38 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

© KAREL APPEL FOUNDATION, C/O PICTORIGHT AMSTERDAM. COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

Vragende Kinderen (Questioning Children), 1949, Karel Appel

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utch painter, sculptor and poet Karel Appel was one of the founding members of CoBrA, an avant-garde movement focused on spontaneity and raw creativity.

Made from scrap wood, this painted relief was created at the very start of this new expressive approach. Inspired by a train journey through Germany following the end of the Second World War, the image depicts the children he saw begging at stations en route. It’s part of a greater series of employing rough and ready materials, intense colour and simple forms that reference child-like creativity. It considers both the artist’s urge to create and the children’s need to survive.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

OUDEKERKSPLEIN Hans van Norden’s painting depicts three prostitutes working in Amsterdam at a time when there was a ban on prostitution. Oddly enough, it was tolerated if women didn’t dress provocatively nor overtly attract potential clientele. The brothel ban only came to an end in October 2000.

STILL LIFE WITH FLOWERS It’s spring, which can only mean an abundance of floral magic. Step back in time to the Dutch Golden Age to experience the work of Hans Bollongier, who specialised in painting bouquets of blooms. This artist from nearby Haarlem proved to be influential to a generation of future flower painters.

RIJKSMUSEUM

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

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Festivals & Events TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT |

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Tulip Festival

The Tulip Festival brightens up Amsterdam’s streets throughout the entire month of April (or as long as the tulips are in bloom). The event sees more than 500,000 tulips go on display across the city, from Noord to Zuid-Oost and Oost to Nieuw-West, with a stroll or bike ride past its 85 different locations being a fantastic way to explore the capital in new and surprising ways. Participating locations include Eye Filmmuseum, Hermitage Amsterdam, Hortus Botanicus, Museum Van Loon, Rijksmuseum and many public spaces throughout the city.

© KOEN SMILDE

THROUGHOUT APRIL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Taste of Amsterdam

Lente Kabinet

Each year, Taste of Amsterdam takes over the city’s Amstelpark for four days of eating, drinking and entertainment. Top chefs from leading restaurants fashion starter-sized plates of some of their signature dishes for visitors to sample in this unbeatable al fresco feast. Don’t forget to drop in on the event’s workshops, kids’ activities and wine tasting.

Taking place in the beautiful surroundings of nature reserve Het Twiske, dance music festival Lente Kabinet is curated by the Dekmantel crew, purveyors of some of the city’s finest DJs and sounds. This festival features an elite roster of artists representing house, techno and bass music.

31 MAY–3 JUNE, AMSTELPARK

26–27 MAY, HET TWISKE

‘This spring, I’m really looking forward to Amsterdam’s Springsnow Festival. Spring is one of my favourite times of year in the city. I love Amsterdam’s trees, which line INSIDER TIP the canals and spread across the city’s spectacular parks – they are a key ingredient of its special character. From late April until late May, the seeds of Amsterdam’s elm trees fall like a blanket of snow across the city – known as spring snow. It’s a great time, maybe the best time, to photograph the city.’

GIN FESTIVAL Get set for a summer of G&Ts with Amsterdam’s Gin Festival 2019. As well as featuring hundreds of brands, you can sample specialist tonics, genevers, vermouth, vodka and other artisanal spirits. You will also find seminars, masterclasses, food and entertainment, including a speakeasy club and live music.

Gosse Bouma (32), freelance videographer, @gosse_bouma

18 MAY, BEURS VAN BERLAGE

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Festivals & Events 40 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

AFW Studio

Amsterdam Fashion Week is back with AFW Studio, a diverse event with a broad-ranging programme.

Alongside fashion shows featuring both up-and-coming young talent and well-established names, you can expect to find exhibitions featuring photography, art and design as well as inspiring talks. Owner Danie Bles aims to surprise by offering a programme that can respond to current trends, bringing fashion into view.

7–9 MARCH, COMPAGNIETHEATER

Rolling Kitchens

T

he free Rolling Kitchens (or Rollende Keukens in Dutch) food festival sees dozens of mobile kitchens and food trucks pop up at Westergasfabriek to create one enormous open-air restaurant.

You can lose hours just walking around this popular event sampling the multitude of cuisines on offer, including everything from Thai specialities through to Mediterranean tapas and Texan BBQ. As well as the amaz-

ing array of different foods, there’s a wealth of bars serving cocktails, wine, beer and a variety of soft and health drinks. Plus, you’ll find stages where bands perform to exuberant crowds looking to dance off some of the delicacies they’ve indulged in throughout the day. You can also dine under the sun or the stars – as the event runs late into the evening.

29 MAY–2 JUNE, WESTERGASFABRIEK

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RESTAURANT WEEK Amsterdam Restaurant Week sees the city’s eateries offers up memorable mouthfuls at discounted prices. It’s a great opportunity to visit some of Amsterdam’s finest dining establishments, with Michelin-starred restaurants and lauded celebrity dining haunts involved.

SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL Every year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter the city’s streets with a blanket of blossom. To celebrate this phenomenon, the festival’s programme centres around its Elm Route, an eight-kilometre walking and cycling route from the elm arboretum in Amsterdam Noord to the city’s Hortus Botanicus.

11–27 MARCH VARIOUS LOCATIONS

21 APRIL–21 MAY VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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Schumann Symphony

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Sat 16, Mon 18 March Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

Open Tower Day allows visitors to climb both historical and modern towers across the city.

You can visit in your own time or sign up for guided tours and special events.

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

23 MARCH, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Amsterdam Coffee Festival Featuring more than 100 artisan roasters, equipment makers and gourmet food stalls, Amsterdam Coffee Festival is the perfect event for caffeine lovers. Attend a workshop given by some of Europe’s best baristas, grab some coffee-inspired cocktails and enjoy live music, entertainment and art.

1–3 MAY, WESTERGASFABRIEK

Spring Break

Hemeltjelief Festival

There’s always a packed programme of art, theatre and crafts to keep the family entertained for the entire day at this family festival. The stages are traditionally located along the River IJ and play host to acts including up-and-coming Amsterdam bands and DJs.

7–9 & 14–16 APRIL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

30 MAY, NDSM WHARF

© EDWIN VAN EIS

Spring Break Amsterdam is a music festival that takes place in some of the city’s most interesting venues by night, and leaves time to explore its historic sights and museums during the day. An event aimed to inspire visitors to embrace all aspects of the city, this year’s line-up features Rudimental, Jaguar Skills and Big Narstie.

BREDEWEGFESTIVAL Characterised by a family-friendly vibe, the free Bredewegfestival is a bustling street fiesta featuring a street market and fair, as well as theatre performances and concerts. It’s set to open on the evening of King’s Night with an ‘opera on the street’ performance.

26–27 APRIL WATERGRAAFSMEER

‘As host of the Amsterdam Culture Club, I connect internationals with culture in INSIDER TIP the city: every month we visit a different event with a group of internationals.

Members get to know Amsterdam’s cultural scene better, and it’s also the perfect way to get to know other internationals! On 13 April, the club will visit the 24H Noord event. It’s a great way to discover the area. For one day only, 50 theatres, museums, churches, shops, bars and clubs host events and activities.’

Hannah van der Rest (38), cultural freelancer and Amsterdam Culture Club host

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On Stage

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

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Falling Man

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© JAN VERWEYERSVELD

rench director Julien Gosselin brings Don DeLillo’s novel Falling Man to the stage. Reflecting on global terrorism in post-9/11 New York, the story follows Keith Neudecker. While he escaped the Twin Towers largely unscathed, he was left confused, contributing to unconscious decisions and a sense of loss. It’s all about traumatic experiences and the effect it has on ordinary people.

SURTITLED 21 & 28 MARCH INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

© MICHEL SCHNATER

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SWAN LAKE The Dutch National Ballet reprises the much-lauded version of the ‘ballet of all ballets’ by former artistic director Rudi van Dantzig, which pays deference to Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov’s original 1895 choreography while adding his own interpretation of the story.

VARIOUS DATES BETWEEN 16 MARCH AND 2 JUNE, DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET

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DEATH IN VENICE

KALPANARTS – SUPERHUMAN: OUR INNER DARKNESS Choreographer Kalpana Raghuraman delves into people’s moral ambiguity, inspired by the tales from Indian mythology she grew up with. Six dancers share the stage with a singer.

4 — 13 APRIL SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

10 MARCH, CC AMSTEL

ITA.NL

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OEDIPUS — 2 & 9 MAY SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

The Boom Chicago crew presents their new concept, Sunday Night Live, in which they create scenes, stories and songs inspired by a monologue or a suggestion.

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VARIOUS DATES, BOOM CHICAGO

Still Life

Initiated by the DNO, the Opera Forward Festival combines new operas with a programme of talks. Highlights include The Second Violinist by Enda Walsh and Donnacha Dennehy, a multimedial meditation on the search for beauty amidst an onslaught of video games, social media and alcohol addiction; and the European premiere of Girls of the Golden West by John Adams and Peter Sellars, a breathless story set in the Californian gold rush.

28 FEBRUARY–10 MARCH VARIOUS LOCATIONS

© JAN VERWEYERSVELD

© ANJA BEUTLER

Opera Foward Festival

Death in Venice

A

dapted by poet and actor Ramsay Nasr – who also plays the Aschenbach role – and directed by Ivo van Hove, this ITA production is a new approach to Thomas Mann’s novella about an ageing writer succumbing to an impossible infatuation while holidaying in Venice. It is a music theatre co-production with the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, which features a score composed for the play by American contemporary music sensation Nico Muhly. One of this season’s theatre highlights.

Inspired by the Bauhaus architecture and design movement, choreographer Nicole Beutler goes back to basics: two dancers, geometrical moves, an entirely white set. The choreography examines the history of partner dance, from baroque court dances through lindy hop to postmodern movements.

VARIOUS DATES BETWEEN 4 AND 13 APRIL (ALL PERFORMANCES SURTITLED) ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

2–4 APRIL, FRASCATI

For more information, visit keukenhof.nl/ov

© STUDIO BREED

Want to travel from Amsterdam city centre to Keukenhof quickly, frequently and economically?

MODERN SAMURAI If it’s a heart-warming story told in dance you’re after, then Modern Samurai is for you. The story centres around a group of young men from a disadvantaged neighbourhood out to steal just enough money from the wealthy to pay for a poor child’s heart surgery. An exhilarating performance.

10 MARCH, SCHOUWBURG AMSTELVEEN

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© RAHI REZVANI

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SETTLE FOR MORE Young dancers and choreographers Bryan Arias and Felix Landerer create their first-ever piece, followed by Marco Goecke’s critically acclaimed ‘Midnight Raga’, and ‘Simple Things’, a dynamic quartet by Dutch dance master Hans van Manen.

16 MARCH, SCHOUWBURG AMSTELVEEN; 26, 28 & 29 APRIL, INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

On Screen

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

44 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

Cinemasia Film Festival

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njoy the best of Asian film at this popular festival, which has been promoting visibility and inclusivity since 2003. Every year, it showcases critically-acclaimed movies along with box office hits from places like Hong Kong, Japan, the Philippines and Taiwan, touching on everything from ancient monsters to rock ‘n’ roll. You’re also welcome to attend talks, masterclasses and other events for movie buffs and filmmakers alike.

5–10 MARCH, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Der Himmel über Berlin

Imagine Film Festival

Sci-fi, fantasy, horror, oh my! At the Imagine Film Festival you’ll enjoy movies from around the world, including new releases from acclaimed directors, animated features, shocking shorts and old classics you’ll love seeing on the big screen. Don’t miss the lectures and Q&A sessions either. You might even brush shoulders with future stars – veterans of the festival have made their mark in Hollywood.

10–20 APRIL, EYE FILMMUSEUM

Romance takes flight with a screening of Wim Wenders’ Der Himmel über Berlin, also known as Wings of Desire. Telling the story of angels who watch over a divided Cold War city, this stunning film explores the meaning of love and existence. And don’t worry – there will be English subtitles, too.

11 MARCH EYE FILMMUSEUM

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EYE INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE 2019 The tenth ‘Women and the Silent Screen’ conference centres on the earliest years of movie history through panels and screenings of restored films. Though the conference typically caters to academics, it provides a rare opportunity to examine the silent era.

25–29 MAY, EYE FILMMUSEUM

THE WOOD

— 18 & 25 APRIL SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

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AMSTERDAM SPANISH FILM FESTIVAL The best of Spanishlanguage film is coming to Amsterdam again. Catch up on the latest treasures from Spain and Latin America at this popular festival, which features mainstream hits and a curated selection of indie and experimental movies.

29 MAY–2 JUNE VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Visit Royal FloraHolland Aalsmeer World’s largest trade centre for flowers.

A sight that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world.

royalfloraholland.com

Classical | 45

Minimal Music Festival

Repetitive yet breathtaking: minimal music has been entrancing listeners with its deceptively simple means since the 1960s. This renowned biennial festival dedicates a series of concerts to the style. The sixth edition focuses on the transcendental element of minimal music, with Joep Franssens’ hypnotic ‘Harmony of the Spheres’, Étienne Jaumet’s synth-drones and a new piano concerto by Vladimir Martynov.

3–7 APRIL, MUZIEKGEBOUW

Passion concerts

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round Easter time, two works dominate the city’s concert halls and churches: Bach’s St Matthew Passion and St John Passion. Delicate and dramatic in equal parts, these sacred oratorios are among the greatest achievements in classical music. One of Amsterdam’s most popular St Matthew Passions sees Pieter Jan Leusink conducting the Bach Choir and Orchestra of the Netherlands (playing on period instruments) at the Royal Concertgebouw – there are 12 performances between 2 March and 21 April. The Neth-

erlands Bach Society, conducted by Philip Herreweghe, performs its interpretation on 16 April. At the Muziekgebouw, De IJ-Salon hosts a refreshing new take on the St John Passion, which includes a staging by choreographer Peter Leung, on 23 March, while baroque expert Reinbert de Leeuw leads the Netherlands Chamber Choir and Holland Baroque through an emotionally charged production of the St Matthew Passion on 31 March and 1 April. Many more passion concerts take place across the city.

VARIOUS DATES AND LOCATIONS

16 & 18 MARCH, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

FALLING MAN

21 & 28 MARCH SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

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© ADRIANO HEITMAN

© L ARS BORGES

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NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA & SHEKU KANNEH-MASON The young British cello talent – BBC Young Musician of the Year in 2016 – joins the orchestra for Haydn’s Cello Concerto in C, a work muchloved among cellists. Schumann’s Second Symphony and Mendelssohn’s Melusine overture also feature.

MARTHA ARGERICH One of the most charismatic performers in classical music today, Martha Argerich teams up with a fellow master pianist for a piano duo concert. On the programme are works

by Debussy and Rachmaninoff’s Symphonic Dances.

24 MARCH, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Pop & Rock

46 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND DAVID WILLS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Neneh Cherry

S

wedish singer-songwriter, rapper and producer Neneh Cherry brings her fusion of trip-hop and alternative rap to the Melkweg. She hit the spotlight in the late 1980s with big hit ‘Buffalo Stance’ and followed through with ‘Kisses on the Wind’, ‘7 Seconds’ and ‘Buddy X’ to name but a few. She's also collaborated with Peter Gabriel and the Gorillaz as well as recorded several duets with Michael Stipe and Senegalese singer Youssou N’Dour. Neneh Cherry’s past two albums were produced by Four Tet’s Kieran Hebden, and while they may have taken a more understated approach, they are no less powerful.

Broken Politics, her latest, tackles personal themes and contemporary life as so aptly referred to in the title. It’s going to be a great show.

3 MARCH, MELKWEG

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HUGH JACKMAN Fresh from the success of his hugely successful film The Greatest Showman, Hugh Jackman is embarking on a tour which will see him sing, dance and act his way through arenas around the world.

Jackman will be joined by a live orchestra.

21 03 19 05

2019

17 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

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KATE TEMPEST A proper poet, the brilliant Kate Tempest writes songs that are stories, using her rat-a-tat delivery to weave together tales that ruminate on love, class and life with an observational eye that only the greatest writers offer.

7 MAY, BITTERZOET

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Elton John Nilüfer Yanya

Watching Nilüfer Yanya perform live offers everything you could want from a gig – the opportunity to see a songwriter delivering on the potential that has put their name at the top of so many ‘one to watch’ lists for 2019.

Caressing her guitar like a lover and armed with an extraordinary voice capable of provoking pleasure and awe, this gig promises special things.

16 APRIL, BITTERZOET

Mumford & Sons

After more than 50 years playing live, and a career which has seen him write some of the most iconic music – well – ever, Elton John is visiting Amsterdam as part of his final Farewell Yellow Brick Road Tour. This parting concert will see him revisit some of his biggest hits and most spectacular costume choices.

Expect sing-alongs, fireworks and perhaps even a few tears along the way.

15 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

Mumford & Sons bring their Delta tour to Amsterdam, featuring their unique circular stage located in the middle of the venue, taking surround-sound to new levels. Performing tracks from their recent Delta album and their crowd-pleasing hits, we’re pretty sure punters will be pleased. Did we mention it’s their biggest tour so far?

Robyn

After re-emerging onto the scene with her own independent label and a score of bonafide bangers under her belt, Robyn has redefined what pop can be. She’s a pop artist that indie kids could like and that made pop lovers reassess just what their favourite genre could be. Her sound – one that makes you want to dance through the pain of life and lost loves rather than wallow in it – has influenced everyone from Rhianna to Taylor Swift to Lorde. Now she’s back again with her first album since 2010, and she’s as arresting as ever.

10 APRIL, MELKWEG

9 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

29 MARCH, AFAS LIVE

© JOHN MICHAEL FULTON

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THE KOOKS Though it’s been over a decade since they burst onto the scene, The Kooks are still writing new material, releasing albums and topping festival bills. Despite that continued success, we’ve got a feeling that this gig’s best bits will be hearing songs from the Brighton group’s classic album Inside In/Inside Out.

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KIMBRA Gotye’s massive hit ‘Somebody That I Used to Know’ from 2012 introduced Kimbra to a wider audience as the ‘other voice’. Her solo work has garnered much praise with her albums The Golden Echo and Primal Heart effortlessly mixing pop with R&B, jazz and rock elements.

21 MARCH, TOLHUISTUIN

Less than om A 30 minutes msterda m

CULTUUR, HISTORIE EN NATUUR

www.ouderkerkaandeamstel.com

LGBTI

Rapido’s Funhouse pulls out all the stops this Easter with a weekender over two action-packed nights.

Along with an amazing DJ line-up including DJRW, Guy Scheiman, Karl Kay and Sharon O Love, you can expect three fun-filled rooms with three very distinctive vibes.

20–21 APRIL, WESTERGASFABRIEK

48 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

State of Identity Photographer Milan Gies works with models over a period of time in an effort to reveal emotion and build trust. State of Identity is his latest series of studio-shot portraits bringing together ten young people in varying stages of transition.

The exhibition tackles the difficult process of gender reassignment poetically and with respect, highlighting the challenges faced by those who feel out of place in our society.

18 MARCH–21 APRIL, MELKWEG EXPO

Pink Film Days

GIN & TUESDAY If gin’s your thing, pop into Prik’s regular Gin & Tuesday evening. Expect well-loved combinations of world-famous gins, or why not try something a little more exotic? A Marula gin infused with the forbidden fruit of the elephant tree, or something local with Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin.

ative features. If you’re wondering about their campaign featuring penguins, look no further than these charming birds for inspiration. From Canada to Australia and New Zealand, they’ve shown that same-sex relationships are also common in nature.

Many films are in English or are subtitled.

© MIL AN GIES

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his March, Roze Filmdagen (Pink Film Days) celebrates 22 years of presenting around 125 featurelength movies and documentaries with an LGBTI theme. Along with alternative, art and short films, the event also includes talks with creators and critics. It’s bound to be another year of challenging and inform-

14–24 MARCH 2019, HET KETELHUIS

BUBBLES AND BITES Head to Amsterdam’s Prik for Bubbles & Bites, a Sunday afternoon session featuring pop music and disco classics. The crew at Prik serves tasty, free snacks from 5-7 pm, and pink or white Prosecco is available on tap for just €3 a glass.

EVERY SUNDAY, PRIK

EVERY TUESDAY, PRIK

DRAG KARAOKE Who doesn’t love karaoke? Taking it up a notch or two is Lellebel’s Global Karaoke Night every Tuesday. Located on buzzing Utrechtsestraat, this fab and friendly local bar is all about singing your heart out with a glamourous crew of the city’s drag queens. Think old-school drag.

EVERY TUESDAY, LELLEBEL

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TEXT: ISADORA GOUDSBLOM |

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DGTL

Amsterdam 2019

Psycho Candy

Internationally renowned record label Life and Death presents Psycho Candy, a new creative initiative from DJ Tennis. Brace yourself for a musical adventure that clashes punk, disco and techno genres to create a unique, primal, DIY aesthetic. It’s perfectly suited to Thuishaven’s coveted industrial location with its hedonistic circus vibe. This one is sure to be a night to remember.

30 MAY, THUISHAVEN

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GTL Amsterdam is one of the city’s most prominent and environmentally sound dance music festivals. It returns to NDSM Wharf this Easter with a stellar line-up of heavy hitters in the underground electronica scene. Think Disclosure, Bicep, The Black Madonna, John Talabot, Henrik Schwarz, GusGus and Danish techno titan Kölsch. Prepare yourself for a pumping Easter weekend chock-full of big beats.

The Promised Land: we’re going back!

19–21 APRIL, NDSM WHARF

9 MARCH, THUISHAVEN

Lovers of house music are in for a special treat with The Promised Land’s fifth edition celebrating the infamous Club Mazzo. The Mazzo was at the forefront when it came to playing 1980s and 1990s dance music in Amsterdam. Expect early house classics with sets from former resident DJs Billy Nasty and Cellie along with RoXY residents Dimitri, Remy Unger and Erick E, plus a live set by Dutch house act Quazar.

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO PLEINVREES! This popular Dutch music festival has a passion for melodic house music. It celebrates eight years with a birthday bash at De Marktkantine this spring.

What to expect? Surprises!

They’re keeping what they have in store under wraps, but you can be sure it’s going to be loads of fun.

9 MARCH, DE MARKTKANTINE

24 hr. ticket 18,-

TECHNO TUESDAY’S TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY Amsterdam’s Techno Tuesday delivers a blistering weekly dose of raving at the Melkweg. 2019 marks ten years of this iconic beacon of Dutch underground music, and to celebrate they’ve put together an impressive roster to do its legacy justice.

smidtjecanalcruises.com

EVERY TUESDAY IN MARCH, MELKWEG

Haar le

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15,50

50 min. cruise 14,20,-

Hop-on Hop-off

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DAM & BASS WEEKENDER The unstoppable and award-winning Breakin Science and Low Down Deep have always put the raver first. That makes the launch of the inaugural Dam & Bass weekender at Amsterdam’s Q-Factory exciting news indeed. With a range of raving options, this is going to be a weekend of non-stop jungle fun.

10 MAY, Q-FACTORY

50 | TEXT: MERRITT GURLEY

Inspect ‘Kidsproof’ museums

Throughout the year, kids go to museums in Amsterdam and fill in inspection forms. Every museum that receives at least 40 inspections with an average score of 7.5 or higher is awarded the title of being Kidsproof.

Easter

with the family

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n the Netherlands, Easter is a nationally recognised holiday celebrated over two days: Eerste Paasdag (Easter Sunday) and Tweede Paasdag (Easter Monday). Festivities range from egg hunts and brunch to spring markets and church services.

Amsterdam Mamas usually hosts a big Easter egg hunt in the Beatrixpark playground for kids aged 1–12. Artis Zoo will run a tour with stops at all the animals that lay eggs. Grab your finest hat and your egg basket, and bunny hop your way into an epic Easter.

There are now more than 70 Kidsproof museums in the Amsterdam area.

During the last weekend of Museum Week, all of the Kidsproof museums will host kid-friendly activities and a competition.

13 & 14 APRIL VARIOUS LOCATIONS

21 & 22 APRIL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Discover Weesp: a historical town along the beautiful river Vecht.

Culture, nature and more...!

Just 15 min. from Amsterdam.

EVERY WEDNESDAY, GROOT MELKHUIS

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© RONALD VAN WEEREN

www.welkominweesp.nl

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MAKE ART IN THE PARK At Groot Melkhuis in Vondelpark, you’ll find a restaurant and snack bar; an outdoor playground with swings, a zip line and slides; and an assortment of coin-fed rides.

On Wednesdays from 2–4 pm, when Dutch children get out of school early, they host a Kids Art Club for kids to draw, paint and create.

VISIT THE ZOO Amsterdam’s zoo is an ideal spring outing, offering a mix of outdoor and indoor activities.

The aquarium is a rainbow of underwater creatures where you can see tropical fish such as the red-bellied piranha, seahorses, and rare species of coral and sharks.

OPEN DAILY, ARTIS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

King’s Day, kid-style

Paint like Rembrandt

Let the kids in on the fun at the Rijksmuseum in a painting workshop that combines a lesson in art, history and culture. Every Sunday between 2 pm and 4 pm in the picnic room, there will be an instructor on hand to teach families how to draw objects and landscapes using Rembrandt’s techniques.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

In celebration of the king’s birthday, on 27 April all of Amsterdam erupts in orange during a day-long party that has activities aplenty for all ages scattered throughout the city. In Vondelpark, you’ll find kids selling their second-hand toys, as well as snacks and drinks at Kindermarkt.

Expect a lot of creativity at this pop-up street market, including dances and musical performance.

To the north, at NDSM, the Vrijhaven festival is a great destination for families, with live music, food, another kid-run flea market, face-painting, games, rides, karaoke, theatre and more.

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EVERY SUNDAY, RIJKSMUSEUM

Swing like monkeys!

Let your kids run off their energy at Apenkooi (Monkey Cage), old-school gym sessions run by the team at Skills Amsterdam. There are four locations hosting weekend morning classes for kids aged 2–10 in indoor gymnastic facilities with balance beams, padded mats, and trampolines. Instructors run games like tag, freeze-dance and Simon Says. €5 per child, 10.30 am–noon.

27 APRIL, CITY-WIDE

Energetica

The power of renewable energy sources, such as wind, water and sun, is on display at NEMO with various activities that’ll have you wondering what powers your kids’ seemingly endless energy. Starting 1 April, the water cascade will be running again, inviting visitors to splash about and create their own rainbows. There’s also a rooftop restaurant where you can enjoy a sprawling view of Amsterdam.

EVERY SATURDAY & SUNDAY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Splash and slide

Every Sunday morning from 9 am–1 pm, there’s a family swimming session at Sloterparkbad. One of the largest pools in the Netherlands, the indoor facility has a long, winding waterslide, shallow kiddie pools, whirlpools, and all sorts of fun floating toys, games and activities.

Intrepid swimmers can make a splash on the one- and three-metre diving boards.

EVERY SUNDAY, SLOTERPARK

OPEN DAILY, NEMO SCIENCE MUSEUM

OPEN DAILY, TUNFUN

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

Just outside Amsterdam

SEE A SHOW The whole family will delight in Vier verhalen en een dag (Four stories and a day): a dance and musical theatre performance for everyone aged 6 and up. The music is composed by Erik de Jong, known as Spinvis, and his partner Saartje Van Camp, and the dancing is executed by the Introdans dance company. Sound and movement come together in a whimsical fairy-tale about a girl named Moira who is granted three wishes. As her wishes unfold, the audience is treated to a parable about the meaning and power of freedom.

14 APRIL, INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

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INDOOR PLAYGROUND For drizzly days, head to TunFun, an indoor playground, set in a former underground metro station, with games and activities for kids up to age 12. Here you’ll find ball pits, jungle gyms, trampolines, football and more. The areas are divided by age, so toddlers are separated from the more rambunctious older kids.

Rembrandt and the Mauritshuis Mauritshuis, The Hague 31 Jan - 15 Sep 2019

In this exhibition, the Mauritshuis in The Hague shows all eighteen paintings that were once acquired as Rembrandt.

Not only famous masterpieces such as The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp, but also paintings that are no longer attributed to Rembrandt. iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

Rembrandt, Self-Portrait, 1669, Mauritshuis The Hague advertentie half liggend.indd 5

14-01-19 16:17

Castles & Gardens

Discover the garden of Amsterdam in VR360° www.gooivechtinVR.nl

www.visitgooivecht.com

City Guide

54 60 61 62 63

Zuid Noord Oost West Tram 3 Tour

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

Stedelijk Museum

© HERMAN VAN HEUSDEN

The Museumplein is the gateway to the cultural centre in the south of Amsterdam. And nothing speaks to the artistic credentials of this square better than the bathtub-shaped exterior of the Stedelijk Museum. Lovers of modern and contemporary art and design will not be disappointed.

MUSEUMPLEIN 10 STEDELIJK.NL

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Zuid

© MARIE CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

54 | text: TEXT: Karin LILY Engelbrecht HEATON

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

On the roof of the main hall of the Royal Concertgebouw is a lyre, the instrument of Apollo, the symbol of music. Made of red copper and gilded with gold leaf, the lyre is 3.25 metres tall.

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Gold Standard

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ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way – by bike or on foot – through the Rijksmuseum tunnel.

If this feels reminiscent of your entry via Central Station, you’ve been paying attention – both landmarks were created by Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers. The walkway of this thoroughfare, adored by locals and tourists alike, is often a stage for street performers whose tunes are boosted by natural acoustics. As is the ever-present sound of bells that ricochets off vaulted ceilings as cyclists whizz by. With so much going on, don’t forget to look up and around, admiring the brick, tile and sculpted details, circa 1885. Exit directly onto Museumplein (Museum Square) where the view may feel slightly amiss without the iconic I amsterdam letters that have recently moved elsewhere. Continue

into the grassy field to find a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized artworks and curious visitors. Across the street lies a stately, Neoclassical building, home to the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, where classical performances have taken place since 1881. At a loose end on a Wednesday? Catch a free lunchtime concert.

Shop till you drop

Glitz and glamour continue to unfold with dazzling jewels at the Diamond Museum, extravagant cocktails at the oh-so-swanky Conservatorium Hotel, and the pinnacle of opulence: P.C. Hooftstraat. The famed shopping street – frequented by trendsetters, fashionistas, design lovers and celebrities – caters to affluent clientele who find delight in brands like Louis Vuitton, Hermés, Dior, Chanel and the whole luxurious lot.

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Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan flair.

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‘We live just outside the city and whenever we visit Amsterdam, Museumplein has a lot of cultural experiences to offer. One of our favourite things to do is enjoy a live performance at the Concertgebouw.’

Harry & Mieke Woltman, retired

Zuid

56 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL Take one look at the green canopies and elegant streets of stately mansions, and it’s evident that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. So it’s no surprise that this neighbourhood is famous for its shopping opportunities. Stylish, high-end boutiques with everything from apparel to beauty salons, art, design, wine and more can be found along the chic Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat. Don’t fret, there’s something for everyone: even those with a less than generous budget will enjoy window-shopping and admiring the real estate while exploring this posh, tree-lined community.

A walk in the park

Once a private garden for the wealthy, whose opulent estates line the perimeter, Vondelpark is the city’s largest green space. Everyone gathers here on sunny days from the moment the

first purple crocuses appear in springtime. Encompassing 47 hectares, with Museumplein to the north and Oud-Zuid to the southeast, swarms of cyclists, roller-skaters and sometimes even equestrians ride though. Escape to a quiet corner of the rose garden, catch an outdoor concert or lay in the grass for excellent people-watching along one of the many promenades.

Stop for a koffiepauze (coffee break), broodje (sandwich) or borrelhapjes (fried snacks) at one of four cafés scattered throughout. On the north side, Vondelpark3’s kitchen and bar is housed in an elegant mansion with a terrace and lake view, while De Vondeltuin (near the southern entrance) serves beer, tapas and sometimes even BBQ, creating a laidback garden vibe. Families will have a ball at Groote Melkhuis, featuring cafeteria-style service and a large playground for kids of all ages.

© EDWIN VAN EIS

ZuiderMRKT

Labyrinth Bar

Art, music and a taste of the tropics mix at this bar nestled along the south side of Vondelpark. Share a plate of Afro-Caribbean soul food with friends – from jerk chicken to fried cassava, samosas and more. Then, quench your thirst for new flavours with bespoke cocktails crafted by creative mixologists. Show off your talents or simply observe during weekly open-mic nights and spoken-word poetry events.

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 53 LABYRINTHAMSTERDAM.NL

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

On Saturday mornings, local vendors set up shop in a quaint square, just a few streets down from Museumplein.

Sample a smorgasbord of tasty bites at this neighbourhood market filled with farm-to-table produce and freshly baked goods. Stop by on Saturday mornings to pick up a basketful of treats for a springtime picnic in nearby Vondelpark.

JOHANNES VERHULSTSTRAAT/ JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT ZUIDERMRKT.NL

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Café Schinkelhaven

Drink with the locals at this neighbourhood favourite nestled across from the south entrance to Vondelpark. The menu offers lunch, dinner and a wide assortment of beers, with new flavours every Friday. As spring arrives, bite into a burger or sip a local brew on the bustling corner terrace while watching the bicycles zip in and out of the park.

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 126 CAFESCHINKELHAVEN.NL

COnScIoUs sHoPpInG rOuTe

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© YERBA

As one of the greenest cities in Europe, it’s no surprise that Amsterdam’s local shops follow suit with a socially conscious mindset. Begin exploring the Zuidas business district by bike, and pause for a coffee break and healthy lunch at De Pits (1) or opt for a meal at De Nieuwe Poort (2), before cutting through Beatrixpark and heading towards De Pijp. Pop into Broer & Zus (3) along Van Woustraat to shop for playful, organic gear for the next generation of eco-friendly shoppers.

Next door stands Hutspot (4), a concept-storemeets-café selling local fashion, lifestyle and homeware brands with a modern, retro feel.

Venture along Sarphatipark to Happy Tosti (5), dishing out tasty bites with a side of social consciousness. Find eco-conscious home, beauty and fashion labels on the shelves at Verse (6), one of the neighbourhood’s newest additions.

Finish the route at Yerba (7), near Museumplein, serving up a locally sourced, omnivorous menu where veggies take centre stage.

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© LILY HEATON

© HUTSPOT

Conscious Shopping

&Klevering

Artistic, contemporary products for the kitchen, home and family fill the vibrant interior of this colourful boutique. Frequented by locals for its funky, inspiring designs from Dutch and international brands, this shop has multiple locations in and out of Amsterdam, including one in Oud-Zuid near Willemsparkweg.

JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 19A KLEVERING.NL

Zuid

58 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

Turn left from Museumplein and cross a small bridge to enter De Pijp, a tightly wound neighbourhood that’s home to spirited, creative residents.

The streets here have an intense concentration of artistic and cultural flavours, and plenty of unique concept shops. Stretching across the heart of De Pijp, the bustling Albert Cuyp Market is the largest in the city. Wander through to pick up fresh tulips, assorted nibbles and souvenirs. Don’t forget to try fresh stroopwafels (Dutch caramel waffle cookies) made by hand and served warm. On sunny days, do as the locals do and take a picnic to nearby Sarphatipark.

Venture on

The Beethovenstraat leads to more

shops, affluent residences and the tranquil Beatrixpark. Further south lies the Zuidas, Amsterdam’s busy financial district where modern, gleaming skyscrapers are home to international corporations. As the city’s population quickly multiplies, the Zuidas is under endless renovation to include more shops, restaurants, hotels and transportation hubs to connect this extended residential area to the city’s old centre.

For a proper woodland experience, venture out to the grassy meadows of Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). This recreational area offers a true escape from the city along with all types of outdoor fun, including a treetop obstacle course and even a petting zoo.

© LILY HEATON

Latin Quarter

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‘I love cycling through Oud-Zuid because there are so many peaceful, lovely streets.

Catching up with friends is as easy as it gets in the springtime; we like to meet for a G&T on the sunny terrace at Café George.’

Gertjan van den Berg (29), creative director

© DIGNITA

Dignita

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Following the motto, ‘eat well, do good’, this mindful café serves up coffee and seasonally inspired bites paired with a social initiative. Dine at one of two locations – Dignita offers a cosy setup near the Vondelpark and a garden oasis behind the Hermitage Amsterdam Museum in Oost. Stop by for breakfast, bunch or lunch, including savoury bites and fluffy pancakes.

KONINGINNEWEG 218 EATWELLDOGOOD.NL

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A pair of cufflinks, notebooks, a pencil and a feather for letter-writing; all in Rembrandt style. The perfect giftset for art lovers and artists alike. €27,95

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Noord

For more information on Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

60 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Amsterdam Noord offers diverse entertainment and bohemian flair, just steps from the water’s edge.

Other Side

C

© DENNIS BOUMAN

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as its many new developments. Gone are the days of grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art, cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and explore. For the fastest route, exit the Buiksloterweg ferry and step into a wide, riverside promenade leading visitors to a variety of amusements. The sleek, modern Eye Filmmuseum features exhibitions and movies with a restaurant and waterfront terrace. Take in a bird’s-eye view from the top of the A’DAM Tower, where thrill-seekers dare to swing from the edge of the rooftop – the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 metres up. Alternatively, take the ferry over to NDSM Wharf, home to an old shipping dockyard turned vibrant cultural centre with assorted eateries and a full agenda of unorthodox activities.

‘We live in Amsterdam Noord and have a camper van, so we love to go camping with our dog in Twiske. It’s a great area to enjoy nature and have a BBQ when the weather is nice!’

Hester Hogendoorn, Daniël Langeveld and baby Salomé

© LILY HEATON

Hop on a ferry to NDSM Wharf, an industrial area turned quirky, hip hangout. Visitors can sort through their fill of recycled wares as far as the eye can see at IJ-Hallen. With over 500 stands, full of vintage threads, vinyl records and knickknacks galore, there’s plenty to discover during this monthly bazaar.

Pllek

T.T. NEVERITAWEG 15, IJHALLEN.NL

© IJHALLEN

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© LILY HEATON

IJ-Hallen

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The sandy waterfront ‘beach’ at Pllek is a perfect spot to kick off your shoes and chill out on a beanbag with a beer in hand while enjoying the (everelusive) sunshine and a magnificent view of the IJ River. Pllek’s agenda boasts an array of events including unique dining experiences, outdoor movies and even Brazilian samba nights where lively crowds dance under the stars.

T.T. NEVERITAWEG 59 PLLEK.NL

Oost

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Full of green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while still retaining its unique charm.

Melting Pot

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© LILY HEATON

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

CULTURAL MELTING POT

‘Oost has attracted amazing restaurants and coffee places.

My favourite is Bar Botanique. Their interior is stunning, with tropical vibes right in the city, delicious food and cocktails. Plus, a salsa night once a month that’s definitely worth a visit!’

Tania Pescador (32), blogger at fashpoint.com

Roootin

A new addition to the charming Linnaeusstraat shopping area, Rootin offers Middle Easterninspired brunch and lunch fare. Dishes like avocado toast topped with pomegranate seeds, and sweet orange-blossom pancakes are served in a tropically decorated interior.

LINNAEUSSTRAAT 16, ROOOTIN.COM

© JESJE VEILING

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enture over the Amstel River to Oost (East), where a diverse population is evident in both its residents and its architectural styles. Find grand 19th-century designs in Oud-Oost (Old East) and modern high-rise flats along the Eastern Docklands. Home to a mélange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside plenty of trendy additions. The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where shoppers and vendors have haggled over fruits, flowers and fabric for the last century. Hungry explorers will find everything from beers to bao buns and (coffee) beans at spots like Louie Louie, Happyhappyjoyjoy and Coffee Bru. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terrace at Brouwerij ’t IJ, the local brewery famously housed in a windmill. Further east, Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ’t Nieuwe Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room.

Near the leafy Oosterpark, the monumental Tropenmuseum houses a collection of anthropological treasures collected during the heyday of Dutch colonial exploration.

Pure Markt (Park Frankendael)

Arrive at Park Frankendael with an appetite on the last Sunday of the month, when dozens of vendors set up shop to offer tasty treats, from local honey and cupcakes to BBQ and oysters. Sip and savour, browse handmade goods and accessories, and hear live bands perform. This family-friendly event takes place weekly, rotating through various locations.

PARK FRANKENDAEL, PUREMARKT.NL

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West 62 | HIPSTER HEAVEN

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Hipster Heaven

© PETER BEZEMER

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s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the Canal Ring. Around 15 years ago, the city renovated Westergasfabriek, an old gas factory, into a cultural hotspot for festivals, movies and music with plenty of bites and booze. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shops and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants. Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the many bars, restaurants and boutiques in the vibrant Oud-West (Old West). A diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned cultural centre. The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes. Areas that were once farmland now host hipster cafés and concept shops along the Jan Evertsenstraat and Mercatorplein.

Don’t miss the Amsterdam School-style architecture, with thick, sculptural brick and notes of an Art Deco aesthetic. Explore the socio-political context of this 20th-century architecture at Museum Het Schip.

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© LILY HEATON

Stop by this Nordic bakery and café known for its finger-licking cinnamon rolls and scrumptious sweets. Take a coffee break on the terrace or dine inside this Scandinavian restaurant featuring a menu of salads, cocktails and savoury dishes like smoked salmon or traditional meatballs (also available in a veggie-friendly recipe).

© BROUWERIJ TROOST

Selma’s

Brouwerij Troost

Juicy burgers, noteworthy beers and satisfying bar snacks are abundant at Brouwerij Troost, and all can be sampled at their cosy tasting room in Oud-West. From ale, weizen and craft beers to spirits and sodas, all are made in-house at their location in the Westergasfabriek. Check their website for other locations, too.

PAZZANISTRAAT 25-27 / BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 205 BROUWERIJTROOST.NL

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‘The Westergasterrein has a unique atmosphere that you can’t find anywhere else in Amsterdam, and it’s a great spot to do some people-watching or have a glass of wine on the terrace of Wester Wijnfabriek.’

Susam Pang (37), founder of blog bysam.nl

Tram 3 Tour TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

East Meets West 6: Haarlemmerplein

Can’t choose which neighbourhood to visit? Hop on board Tram 3 and discover the city like a local!

From Haarlemmerplein, head to the Westerpark and the cultural mecca that is Westergasfabriek: a converted gas factory that’s now home to restaurants, bars and a cinema. Or head east down the Haarlemmerdijk – a unique shopping street that leads all the way to Central Station.

1: Flevopark

5: Kinkerstraat Get lost browsing Ten Katestraat market’s colourful food stalls. Or step inside the Foodhallen for a covered food hall that serves everything from Mexican tacos to Basque pintxos. In the same building (a converted tram depot), you’ll find an arthouse cinema, boutique hotel, and a fantastic array of local shops.

Flevopark is a calm green oasis compared to the ever-busy Vondelpark. In fine weather, it’s a lovely place for a walk; and in late spring, the Flevopark’s very own outdoor swimming pool opens.

2: Wibautstraat

© MONIQUE WIJBRANDS / SALT YSTOCK

4: Museumplein Hop off and visit the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum or Moco Museum of modern art. Looking for a different type of culture? Try the House of Bols for a genevertasting experience you won’t forget.

3: De Pijp Head down hidden shopping street Gerard Doustraat for cool concept stores ranging from Scandichic to eco-fashion, as well as a Spanish deli, Israeli bakery and cookbook specialist. Stop for lunch on the Gerard Douplein – Bar Mash serves cheap but tasty Thai food – or grab a coffee at CT Coffee & Coconuts while you wait for the tram.

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When you step out of the tram at Wibautstraat you’ll see stark post-war architecture that’s a world away from the postcard-perfect Canal Ring. But head just one block west towards the Amstel River and you can stroll along the water’s edge, watching the rowers or stopping for a coffee on one of the many sprawling terraces.

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Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area Keukenhof

Known as the most beautiful spring garden in the world, Keukenhof is a glorious celebration of the Netherlands’ world-famous flower history. The stars of the show are the seven million blooms, covering a huge area of 32 hectares – not to mention the 20 flower shows that take place over the short eightweek season that Keukenhof opens for. Unmissable.

21 MARCH–19 MAY, KEUKENHOF.NL

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Flowers Old Holland New Land Castles & Gardens Beaches Map of the region Beyond Amsterdam

Flowers

66 | TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Holland in Bloom Discover the heart of the Netherlands’ booming and blooming flower industry, and the country’s most colourful landscapes, just an hour outside the capital city.

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he Dutch bulb fields, whose bulbs and blooms support a billion-euro industry, are a carpet of geometric colour blocks from mid-March through to August. The Netherlands produces a staggering 70% of the world’s commercial flower output. For a colourful glimpse into contemporary Dutch flower power, you need go no further than the so-called ‘flower strip’ – known in Dutch as the Bollenstreek – just an hour from Amsterdam (see map on page 74). With the Netherlands’ famous bulb fields in full bloom, you’ll be surrounded on all sides by a rainbow of flowers: purple hyacinths, pink crocuses, bright yellow daffodils and, of course, countless varieties of tulips. One word of warning: don’t walk into the flower fields themselves – this is strictly forbidden.

Pick up your free copy of the ‘Flowers of Amsterdam’ map at one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres – see page 78 for details.

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IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

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How to spend a day exploring the flower fields

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

Early birds can experience thousands of colourful flowers being sold all over the world at the Royal FloraHolland flower auction from 7 am Monday to Friday. Take bus 358 from Amsterdam Zuid (bus stop FloraHolland Hoofdingang).

If early mornings are not your thing, then head straight to the Keukenhof gardens.

Save yourself a wait and book Skip-the-Line tickets, including direct transport, at iamsterdam.com/flowers.

Combine the vivid colours of the tulips with the lush green gardens of Keukenhof Castle (free admission). There’s even a little petting zoo for kids.

Walking routes are available on site. If your schedule and

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

the weather allows, hire a bike at the Keukenhof (Renta-Bike van Dam) and discover the famous tulip fields.

Guaranteed Insta-proof!

Flowers

Tulip mania reached its pinnacle during the 17th century when some bulbs were selling for a small fortune. Luckily, now you can buy them for a few euros.

68 | A CARPET OF COLOUR

Unmissable: the Keukenhof

No trip to the Netherlands in spring would be complete without taking in what’s commonly described as ‘the most beautiful spring garden in the world’: Keukenhof. Located in Lisse – the bulb region south of Amsterdam – Keukenhof is a glorious celebration of the Dutch cult of the tulip. Open for just eight weeks each year (in accordance with the tulip’s national flowering season), the Keukenhof boasts a staggering seven million blooms, planted across the 32-hectare park. With several indoor pavilions, Keukenhof hosts more than 20 flower shows between 21 March and 19 May 2019. Over 600 growers present their most beautiful blooms, and leading florists create truly unique displays with them. © MARIO GOGH

KEUKENHOF.NL

In the 17th century, these intricate, ceramic tulip vases were made in Delft, and decorated in either Delft blue or Chinese patterns (layered tulip vase available from &Klevering for €275).

JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 19A, KLEVERING.COM

Keukenhof Castle It may be perpetually outshone by its showy floral neighbour, but this castle (located straight across from the world-famous Keukenhof gardens) boasts an impressive history with Golden Age roots.

Inside, you’ll find portraits, artefacts and period furniture; in the 230-hectare wooded estate, leading artists’ sculptures are on display.

KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

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Keukenhof’s theme for 2019 is Flower Power. Just like in the 1970s, flowers inspire. They connect people from across the globe who come together to enjoy the tulips, smells and colours.

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Royal FloraHolland

© GEMMA PAUWELS/SALT Y STOCK

The world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth) is Royal FloraHolland in Aalsmeer, 15 kilometres outside Amsterdam. The unusual sales method used gave rise to the phrase ‘Dutch auction’. Dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a ‘clock’ that counts from 100 down to one; thus, the price is lowered – rather than raised – until a buyer is found. The best action is before 9 am (it opens at 7 am) so you’ll have to get up early to see it, but there are flowers stretching as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine, and with an (optional) knowledgeable multilingual guide, you’ll witness the auction process first-hand. Royal FloraHolland is open Monday to Friday only, and is closed on public holidays.

Buy your Keukenhof tickets, including direct transportation from Amsterdam, in advance at iamsterdam.com/flowers

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

ROYALFLORAHOLLAND.COM

Bulbs by bicycle

Flower parade

From Leiden to Haarlem, stripes of colour criss-cross the landscape. After the crocuses, it’s the turn of the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths – an impressive display that continues into May and beyond. In late summer, the gladioli, dahlias, carnations and asters stage a second show. You’ll catch an eyeful on many of the trains heading southwest from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, but the bulb fields truly deserve a closer look. Rent a bike for full floral immersion, and cycle through a patchwork of colour.

One of the more spectacular sights in the flower strip is the annual flower parade (bloemencorso), which takes place this year on Saturday 13 April.

The route starts in Noordwijk in the morning and ends in Haarlem in the evening.

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BLOEMENCORSO-BOLLENSTREEK.NL/EN

Old Holland 70 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Find out more about day trips to the Old Holland: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

More than Cheese & Windmills

The Zaan region (see map on page 74) offers a unique combination of traditional Dutch windmills and iconic industrial style. Spring offers good opportunities to enjoy both.

Zaanse Schans

To the north of Amsterdam, Zaanse Schans is a stunning living and working community dating back to 1850, where you can see first-hand how Dutch people lived and worked by visiting the windmills, crafts, museums and houses. Discover the village with a personal guided tour via the Zaanse Schans app. If it’s too cold outside, visit one of the windmills to see the moving parts inside the belly of the building and hear the wood creak – and take a seat to warm up with a cup of hot chocolate and rum!

Or go for the 50-minute boat tour along the Zaanse Schans to enjoy a breathtaking view of the Zaanse skyline, which features the impressive windmills.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

DEZAANSESCHANS.NL

MonetAtelier

‘Zaandam is particularly remarkable and there is enough to paint here for a lifetime. Houses in all colours, hundreds of windmills and delightful boats,’ Claude Monet wrote to his friend and fellow painter Pissarro after arriving in Zaandam on 2 June 1871. Captivated by these motifs, his stay would ultimately last four months. Monet made 24 landscape paintings and one portrait during this period. He was just in time to capture the old Zaandam, dotted with windmills, before the Industrial Revolution would irrevocably change the characteristic landscape of the area. The MonetAtelier includes replicas of Monet’s 25 Zaandam paintings. A number of these were made by famous Zaandam painters. It offers a unique view on the work of Monet as well as an impression of Zaandam in 1871. The MonetAtelier is located in the recently built ‘Luchthuis aan de Zaan’, which has made it possible to turn one of Monet’s paintings into real life.

MONETINZAANDAM.NL

Walking in the Zaan region

Curious to learn the stories behind the famous Golden Age? Then come wander through the Zaan region and marvel at the Zaanse ingenuity. Just north of Amsterdam, the industrial heritage stretch along the banks of the River Zaan is waiting to be discovered. And just off the river, you can stroll around the grounds of the Hembrug site, once the heart of the Defence Line of Amsterdam. Locals recommend the Industrial Heritage walking trail and the Zaan Port area walking trail.

ZAANSTREEK.NL

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Water vs. Land © DENEIUWEWILDERNIS.NL

For centuries, the Dutch have got creative with water – reclaiming large areas of land from the sea. The result? The ‘new land’ (see map on page 74) that makes up the province of Flevoland.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

New Land National Park

As the world’s largest man-made national park, New Land National Park is a must-see if you’re looking for a gentle hike among some of the most beautiful scenery the Netherlands has to offer. Consisting of several lakes – including the Oostvaardersplassen, the Lepelaarplassen and the Markermeer – the park offers a variety of different natural habitats. All, of course, based around water.

The Marker Wadden archipelago is the most recent land to be developed and is the absolute epitome of the Dutch ability to create land out of water.

NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL

Architectural walking tour

© ANNA VAN KOOIJ

In a new city like Almere you won’t wander through charming old streets with medieval canals. But the city is crammed with modern architectural highlights designed by world-famous contemporary architects.

In addition to well-known Dutch architects, international architectural firms from Tokyo, London, Bordeaux, Paris and Zurich have also made their mark on Almere. The most striking buildings in Almere lie along the route of a city walking tour that takes you directly through the city centre.

VVVALMERE.COM/EN

Vis à Vis

Light-hearted comedy, amazing spectacles and ingenious storylines are the order of the day at Vis à Vis – a theatre company that leads the audience along through storylines of serious dilemmas. In all their shows, the humble human’s struggle for survival plays the leading role. From 22 May, their new show ROBOT – a science fiction comedy – will be showing at Almere Beach.

VISAVIS.NL

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Castles & Gardens 72 | HERITAGE NATURE

Culture Meets Horticulture

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

From the colourful spectacle of the cherry blossoms to a special 24-hour programme of cultural and culinary activities, Amstelveen is a must this spring. For a complete guide to the area, visit an I Amsterdam Visitor Centre and pick up your free map.

24H Amstelveen

Following a long history of 24-hour celebrations in neighbourhoods across Amsterdam, 24H Amstelveen is no different. On 25 May, you’ll get the chance to discover all that Amstelveen’s neighbourhoods have to offer in a 24-hour period. Theatres, museums, shops, hotels and nightlife open their doors and put on a special programme of activities.

© JEROEN HOFMAN

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

IAMSTERDAM.COM/24H

Cherry blossoms: catch ’em while you can

Every April, the Cherry Blossom Park in Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) springs to life with 400 cherry trees all in full bloom. This oval-shaped, landscaped park puts on its colourful show each year, attracting thousands of visitors. Why not take a picnic and a blanket and feast under the blossoming cherry trees with family or friends, according to the Japanese tradition? It’s the perfect way to celebrate the coming of spring.

Muiderslot Castle

The Amsterdam area is full of sleepy little villages where you can find the remains of castles dating back to medieval times. Take bus 320 from Amstel Station to Muiden (bus stop Muiden P + R) and walk 20 minutes to reach Amsterdam Muiderslot Castle for knights in shining armour. From 1 April, you can also take a ferry from Amsterdam IJburg (tram 26 from Central Station) for a great day trip.

Bonus: you can bring your (rental) bike on the ferry.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

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Beaches

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ZANDVOORT AAN ZEE

© HAARLEM MARKETING

Beach life From Zandvoort train station, you’re just minutes away from feeling the sand between your toes. Rent a surfboard and ride the waves, or try your skills at stand up paddle boarding.

With over 35 beach pavilions, the options are endless for a hot chocolate, a cold beer, tasty snacks or a proper meal. And don’t forget to watch the sun set over the sea – it doesn’t get more romantic than that.

VVVZANDVOORT.COM

Rooftop dining in Haarlem

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

If you don’t like sandy toes but still want to experience the laidback beachy vibe of the Dutch coast, pay a visit to DeDAKKAS in Haarlem. On your way from Amsterdam Central Station to Zandvoort beach, you’ll pass the historic city of Haarlem. Not only is the train station itself a gem, but Haarlem is full of culture and great restaurants. Climb the stairs of a gritty parking lot to find a city oasis on the rooftop with a magnificent view of old Haarlem and the Dutch dunes. The food is local and seasonal, from breakfast to borreltijd, and as the name implies (kas is Dutch for greenhouse), they grow their own produce in the spring and summer months.

DEDAKKAS.NL

Spring Sunshine West of Amsterdam, the seaside town of Zandvoort aan Zee (see map on page 74) is only a 30-minute journey away by train.

And there’s plenty to do in the spring sunshine!

© HIPPIE FISH

Directly south of Zandvoort, wander through the Waterleiding dunes – perhaps you’ll spot one of the many deer or foxes, or you might stumble across a World War Two bunker. To the north of Zandvoort, you’ll find the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park where you can take a stroll or a leisurely bike ride.

But watch out for the Konik horses and Highland cattle – they roam freely throughout the park.

VVVZANDVOORT.COM

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© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Immerse yourself in nature

Map of the Region 74 | ILLUSTRATION: MONIQUE WIJBRANDS

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Beyond Amsterdam 76 | YOUR SPRING AGENDA

Further Afield From international film festivals in The Hague to fine art in Maastricht, spring is the perfect season to venture further afield in the Netherlands. Take advantage of the fact that there are fewer tourists outside the capital, and get to know the country like a local.

TEFAF Maastricht

© LORRAINE BODEWES

Established in 1988, The European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF) is widely regarded as the world’s pre-eminent organisation of fine art, antiques and design. TEFAF runs three art fairs internationally including TEFAF Maastricht, which covers 7,000 years of art history.

Featuring over 275 prestigious dealers from some 20 countries, TEFAF Maastricht is a showcase for the finest artworks currently on the market. Alongside the traditional areas of Old Master paintings, antiques and classical antiquities that cover around half of the fair, you can also find modern and contemporary art, photography, jewellery, 20th-century design and works on paper.

16–24 MARCH, TEFAF.COM

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The Dutch celebrate Liberation Day each year on 5 May to mark the end of the occupation by Nazi Germany during World War II.

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National Windmill Day

Every year on the second weekend of May, hundreds of windmills open their doors to the public for National Windmill Day. The millers themselves are on hand to operate the mills and talk about the technique, history and miller’s trade. This year, more than 900 windmills and watermills are taking part, spread across the whole of the Netherlands – most of which are free to visit.

Often, extra activities such as fairs, mill markets, demonstrations in bread baking, and exhibitions are organised.

© MARIKE BESCHOP

11–12 MAY, MOLENS.NL/NATIONALEMOLENDAG

Bevrijdingspop, Haarlem

Movies that Matter Festival

5 MAY, BEVRIJDINGSPOP.NL

22–30 MARCH, MOVIESTHATMATTER.NL

Now in its 29th year, Bevrijdingspop Haarlem is the oldest Liberation Day festival in the Netherlands.

Since 1980, freedom has been celebrated through pop music in Haarlem on 5 May, and last year the festival attracted some 130,000 visitors. Nationally renowned artists as well as local talents take to the stage to perform in front of a large public at the Haarlemmerhout in Haarlem-Zuid. The festival runs from 11.30 am until midnight and is free to attend.

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Movies that Matter is an annual film and debate festival dedicated to human rights and social justice issues. It takes place in The Hague, which makes sense given that it’s known as the City of Peace and Justice.

Every year in March, it offers screenings of documentaries and movies by filmmakers who distinguish themselves through the cinematographic quality and compelling content of their productions – thereby stirring up debate. The nine-day festival also features talk shows, debates, musical performances and art exhibitions.

Ticket sales start on 7 March.

Need to Know

78

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer.

Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 10 am-6 pm iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station.

Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza.

Open daily 7 am-10 pm

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2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip each carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

A

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!): I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands. The following public holidays fall in spring 2019:

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange.

• 19 April: Good Friday is not an official public holiday but many businesses do close • 21 April: Easter Sunday is an official public holiday • 22 April: Easter Monday is an official public holiday • 27 April: King’s Day is an official public holiday • 4 May: National Remembrance Day is not an official public holiday but some government offices close • 5 May: Liberation Day is only an official public holiday every five years, but some government offices close • 30 May: Ascension Day is an official public holiday • 9 June: Pentecost Sunday is an official public holiday • 10 June: Pentecost Monday is an official public holiday

AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels.

AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app.

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated

by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable.

Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile

phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

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80 | ILLUSTRATION: MONIQUE WIJBRANDS

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I amsterdam Visitor Centre I amsterdam Visitor Centre V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

3-14

On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘When I’m in Amsterdam I always walk around the streets looking for new vinyl to buy. And I saw a band at the Melkweg – it’s a great venue!’

Kem Lalot (50), music festival organiser from France ‘If you come to Amsterdam, you have to go to Oriental City for their Dim Sum. That’s the place I take my mum!’

Son Dam (25), international product design student from Zwolle

‘We went to the Anne Frank House. It’s amazing to see how they lived in such a small space for such a long time.’

Kyra (18), studying to be a primary school teacher, and Annette (52), psychiatric nurse, from Connecticut

‘You should come here in the summer and go to a festival. My favourite is George’s Secret Wondergarden.’

Ty Beunk (21), mechanical engineering student from South Africa

‘We just had to visit the Van Gogh Museum. My favourite painting is ‘Almond Blossoms’. It's also fun to try and get lost, and to discover the city that way, enjoying the moment and talking to the local people.’

Eva (18) and Martina (25), history, arts and culture of Asia students from Italy

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, Sjoerd van Heumen, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merrit Gurley, Hallie Engel, Isadora Goudsbloem), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing ISSN 2589-6717

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It’s our caring crew Mr Jackson is looking for things to do during his round trip through Asia.

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Eat & shop Boozy brunches Good burgers Shops, street to chic

What’s on What

Van Gogh & Hockney Rolling Kitchens Festival Passion concerts

Around town Insider’s guide to Amsterdam + Make the most of the Dutch flower strip

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2019

The Spring Issue Made by Amsterdam Marketing

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