I amsterdam Magazine Spring 2020 by amsterdam&partners

New Dutch dining Delicious dumplings Dutch design

What’s on King’s Day Food festivals Tulip mania

Around town Holland in bloom Zuid insider’s guide Eurovision

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2020

2020 11:08

Eat & shop

T H E S PR I NG I S SU E

Urban retreats

Vol 3 #2 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE

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Contents 5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Urban (re)treats STEP AWAY FROM THE CROWDS

Looking for a moment of tranquillity or quiet luxury in one of the world’s liveliest cities? Help is at hand.

12 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, there’s an itinerary for everyone – however long or short your stay.

17 Eat, Drink & Shop WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

From new Dutch cuisine to shared dining, and from Dutch design to dumplings – we’ve got you covered this spring.

33 What’s On YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA

Tulip mania, opera, King’s Day and food festivals aplenty – it’s all happening in the Dutch capital.

51 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

Discover the antiquated charm and cosmopolitan flair of Amsterdam Zuid. Or ride the metro north to south, stopping en route.

65 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Holland in spring is all about flowers. But venture away from the Keukenhof crowds to see the best blooms...

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION TURN TO PAGE 80

f you’re a first time visitor, you may experience some stress navigating the streets of Amsterdam. It’s not so much the cars that will bother you, as these are increasingly banned from large parts of the city. It’s the cyclists (about 100% of Amsterdammers move around by bike) that tend to rush by at incredible speeds – especially since the introduction of super-fast e-bikes – on two-way cycle lanes that are not always recognised as such by foreign visitors. Sometimes the cycle lanes are unavoidable, since pavements tend to get blocked by rows and rows of bikes. For more Terraces, too, tend to get really information about crowded when the first rays of Amsterdam, sun break through in spring. It visit our website: iamsterdam.com may feel nigh-on impossible to get any service at all (which is sometimes a policy euphemistically called ‘bar service’ meaning ‘get it yourself’). Trams can be jam-packed, shops can feel like a madhouse, taxi queues can run for a quarter of a mile. And all around you is the noise of a city that outruns itself. That’s why we’ve done our best to find you the best urban retreats in the city, the number and quietness of which will surprise you. City beaches, small parks and gardens, or quiet alleys just off main shopping streets abound. We’ll point you to the many hofjes – concealed courtyards and gardens in the city. One of our favourite urban retreats, the centuries-old Wynand Fockink proeflokaal (tasting room) is situated in a small courtyard just steps away from crowded Dam Square. It doesn’t get more central than that. We invite you to take a deep breath and unwind – you’ll need it.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

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Spring 6 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

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Amsterdamse Bos

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Enjoy garden-to-table dishes at Gartine restaurant, in line with the slow food movement. TAKSTEEG 7 GARTINE.NL

Urban (re)treats

Looking for a moment of tranquillity or quiet luxury in one of the world’s liveliest cities? Take a deep breath and step away from the crowds.

t a time when fast-paced is the new normal and digital connectedness can drive a need to ‘out-busy’ one another, making a conscious effort to slow down is the perfect antidote. There are endless benefits of savouring your time in this vibrant city, seeking out quiet corners and enjoying a sense of calm in locations that feel a world away from Amsterdam as you may know it. Even the most enthusiastic visitor can gain something from retreating to a peaceful part of the city for a few hours. Whatever that means for you – a calming nature walk, a long lunch in a secluded alfresco setting, or an hour-long facial at a day spa – Amsterdam has options aplenty, and they’re all within easy reach. Consider this your guide to the spots that locals

turn to when they need to come up for air and experience life in Amsterdam’s slow lane.

The great outdoors

Parks are essential to Amsterdam life, as many residents have precious little outdoor space of their own. Vondelpark is the most famous, home to several restaurants, an open-air theatre, ponds and water features, children’s play areas and even an original Picasso sculpture. Simply wander away from the busy thoroughfares of cyclists and pedestrians, and you can quickly find a quiet corner where the city drops out of sight. Other notable parks include Westerpark, which surrounds the city’s former gasworks, Beatrixpark with its enormous paddling pool, Noorderpark with its

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‘Even the most enthusiastic visitor can gain something from retreating to a peaceful part of the city.’

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Spring

‘Amsterdam’s very own forest is three times the size of New York’s Central Park.’

8 | URBAN (RE)TREATS

Fun Forest

Amsterdam even has its own city forest, the Amsterdamse Bos. This lush green oasis is three times the size of New York’s Central Park and home to wild deer, grazing highland cattle and many species of birds. There’s a goat farm, should you want to stock up on organic goat’s milk and cheese, or put your zen to the ultimate test during a session of goat yoga. Aside from walking and cycling through the green

expanse, it provides the opportunity for kid-friendly outdoor activities: kayaking on the lakes, whizzing along zip lines in the Fun Forest climbing park, or captaining an electric boat. Nearby, Spaarnwoude is a recreational area between Amsterdam, Haarlem and Velsen that makes for a relaxing getaway. More than 3,000 hectares of forest, farmland and waterways culminate in a serene natural escape that’s less than 20 minutes from Amsterdam.

De Hollandsche Manege

upscale restaurants, and Erasmuspark with its ‘miracle garden’ of experimental horticulture. Other ways to breathe in a heady dose of oxygen include wandering through the city’s botanic gardens, the Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam. Here, rare herbs were cultivated to serve medicinal purposes as far back as 1638. The equally impressive Botanic Garden Zuidas, owned by the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, sits near the edge of the city and has more than 6,000 plant varieties on display, as well as the Netherlands’ largest collection of cacti and succulents.

Inner-city countryside

Of course, little pockets of country life can also be found within the city’s boundaries. Fruittuin van West is an orchard and farm that invites visitors to pick their own organic produce while meeting the resident chickens and farm animals. Petting zoos (known in Dutch as kinderboederijen) such as the ones in Westerpark, De Pijp and Osdorp come into their own in spring when baby lambs, goats, calves and chicks delight animal lovers of all ages. Another unlikely inner-city sanctuary is De

Relax by the Sloterplas

The Sloterplas is an idyllic lake in Amsterdam Nieuw-West which feels a world away from the bustle of the city. Popular for picnics and family outings during the warmer months, the lake is used for boating, fishing and water sports. The surrounding Sloterpark also hosts large-scale events such as the Loveland music festival – a highlight of Amsterdam’s many summer festivals.

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Dine within the grounds of a stately home from the Dutch Golden Age at Merkelbach . MIDDENWEG 72 RESTAURANTMERKELBACH.NL

Hollandsche Manege, which looks from the outside like a grand home on a residential street within Amsterdam’s museum district. Behind the elaborate façade, it’s a fully equipped horse-riding school and stables. In fact, quiet corners that offer a moment of repose can be found in every neighbourhood in the city, even in the bustling centre. Hofjes are former almshouses with concealed courtyards, and many still exist in Amsterdam and Haarlem. As an example, the Begijnhof is mere steps away from one of the busiest shopping streets, the Kalverstraat. Behind an unassuming wooden door, the historic houses and chapel date back to the 14th century, when they were used to house unmarried women from a religious community known as the Beguines. Similarly, the Oudemanhuispoort (old men’s home), which was originally built as an elderly care home, has a breathtaking courtyard hidden from the street entrance. The building is now used by the University of Amsterdam and hosts book markets in the passageways.

Begijnhof

INSIDER TIP

‘I love Amsterdam Noord (North), where it’s quieter than the centre. You find lots of greenery, cosy cafés, and one of my favourite restaurants, Café Modern. They also bake the best bread!’ Kasia Sokolowska-Witter (37), agile lead at Bose

Oudemanhuispoort

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Spring

Take home a bottle of typically Dutch liquoriceflavoured genever from Wynand Fockink. PIJLSTEEG 31 WYNAND-FOCKINK.NL

10 | URBAN (RE)TREATS Relaxed dining

If your idea of R&R involves unwinding over a leisurely meal, urban escapes of the foodie variety could be just what you’re looking for. Dignita Hoftuin, tucked away in a courtyard garden behind the Hermitage Museum, is arguably one of the best brunch spots in Amsterdam (they take bookings on weekdays but be prepared to queue on weekends). De Vergulden Eenhoorn (Gilded Unicorn) is a historic farm turned restaurant and wedding venue. And further afield, restaurants like Thuis aan de Amstel and Merkelbach at Huize Frankendael are dining concepts within monumental country homes from the Dutch Golden Age. Distilleerderij ’t Nieuwe Diep is another must, which produces genever (the Dutch precursor to gin) from an idyllic location surrounded in greenery. Even among the hubbub of Dam Square, the historic genever bar Wynand Fockink

(yes, its real name) offers a quiet spot to enjoy the iconic Dutch spirit. A sense of calm can also be found above street level, as bar and restaurant owners are turning their attention to rooftops that offer panoramic views of the city below. The Volkshotel, once the headquarters of Dutch newspaper the Volkskrant, not only has a spectacular rooftop cocktail bar but also hot tubs and saunas that are open to the public on Sundays. While the 17th-floor rooftop terrace of the Leonardo Hotel Amsterdam Rembrandtpark really shows off the city’s greenery from every angle.

The ultimate indulgence

For an urban retreat in the classic sense, there’s no greater indulgence than a pampering session at one of Amsterdam’s spas. Akasha spa in the Conservatorium Hotel is one of the most deluxe, as are the Guerlain spa at Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam and the Skins Institute spa at De L’Europe Hotel.

INSIDER TIP

‘My ideal urban escape is to head over to Kattencafé Kopjes in de Baarsjes. Animal lovers can hang out with gorgeous rescue cats while having a relaxed coffee or lunch. ’ Renee Mitchell (25), strategy consultant

Artist’s retreat Art enthusiasts should book a day trip to Otterlo where one of the Netherlands’ best art museums awaits. The Kröller-Müller Museum displays the world’s second-largest collection of Van Gogh paintings (the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam has the most), along with masterpieces by Picasso, Monet and Mondrian. You could even spend a full day exploring the expansive sculpture garden – one of the largest in Europe with approximately 160 artworks displayed throughout the beautifully manicured garden.

Houthavens

To the west of the River IJ, the Houthavens is a former industrial harbour that is gradually developing into one of Amsterdam’s most interesting neighbourhoods. Its modern architecture houses the headquarters of several major international fashion brands, and a varied selection of theatres, eateries, shops and microbreweries. Don’t miss REM Eiland restaurant, which sits on a sea rig 22 metres above the water and previously broadcast a pirate radio and TV station.

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Fore more information about springtime urban retreats, visit iamsterdam.com

Create an at-home spa with indulgent goodies from Amsterdambased brand Rituals. VARIOUS LOCATIONS RITUALS.COM

11 Spa Zuiver in Amsterdamse Bos is another centre of pure relaxation that offers skin treatments, a selection of thermal baths (note that swimwear is only permitted on certain days!), Finnish saunas and its own hotel for the ultimate relaxing weekend.

Creative locals have even discovered ways to transform unused urban spaces into makeshift beaches complete with sun loungers, umbrellas, DJs and drinks that make you feel far away from the narrow, cobbled streets of the centre. Pllek at NDSM Wharf is just a short hop across the River IJ via the free ferry from Amsterdam Central Station. Its sandy outdoor area and lively atmosphere make it a perfect spot for capturing the first few rays of spring sunshine.

Pllek

For all its hustle and bustle, there’s no shortage of secluded spots and quiet corners in Amsterdam once you know where to look for them.

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Best-kept secret: Het Hem

Maritime history meets contemporary culture

The Marineterrein is a lesser-known area of Amsterdam that’s rich with history. The 17th-century buildings that remain here were used for constructing naval ships that were needed to protect the Dutch East India Company’s fleet. The land remained under the control of the Ministry of Defence until several years ago. Now, the wharf buzzes with high-end restaurants like Scheepskameel, a lively community of start-ups, and is the starting point for the Amsterdam City Swim each September.

This former munitions factory was closed to the public for many years. Today, it’s a vibrant arts and cultural centre that’s one of the Amsterdam area’s best-kept secrets. Wander through its exhibition spaces, dine at one of the atmospheric cafés and learn about the base’s history on a guided tour. It’s easy to access: a ferry runs directly from Amsterdam Central Station.

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Your Trip

12 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY AND JAYNE ROBINSON

hours in Amsterdam

How to spend your time in…

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

Eat dinner in a former tram depot

Can’t decide what you’re in the mood for? No worries – at the Foodhallen you can have it all. This sleek food hall occupies a converted tram depot (complete with tram lines through the floor), where you can taste your way around Amsterdam’s best street food. DURATION: 1 HOUR

Cruise the canals

Hop on a ferry to Amsterdam Noord

See the sights from the best seat in the house – on board a boat. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day on iamsterdam.com/canalcruise or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card.

Catch a free ferry behind Amsterdam Central Station and discover a part of the city that many first-time visitors never see. The Buiksloterweg ferry will take you to the Eye Filmmuseum and the A’DAM Tower, with its panoramic observation deck giving the best views in the city.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

DURATION:: 4 HOURS

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Café De

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Visit the only museum of microbes

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Wander the historic Canal Ring for the most picturesque glimpses of Amsterdam life. In springtime, the streets are scattered with fallen leaves from the elm trees, known locally as ‘spring snow’.

Immerse yourself in art

Head to the Rijksmuseum for the Dutch Golden Age masters, the Van Gogh Museum for more than 200 paintings by the Post-Impressionist himself, and the Stedelijk Museum for all things contemporary (all free with the I amsterdam City Card).

hours in Amsterdam

Discover the invisible life around us at this unique museum celebrating all the small things. The only museum of its kind in the world, Micropia makes visible the secret world of micro-organisms via a range of impressive, interactive exhibits. DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Home of sustainable fashion

Fashion for Good is an immersive museum experience. Take a journey through the history of sustainable fashion, find out about new innovations, and see how you can have an impact through the clothes you wear. DURATION: 3 HOURS

Discover a foodie neighbourhood

De Pijp is renowned for its lively food and drink scene. Soak up the café culture, take in the beautiful architecture, and stroll around the elegant Sarphatipark in all its springtime glory. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Café De Pijp

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Spring snow

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Dine at the ‘all pink everything’ MaMa Kelly in Oud-Zuid to brighten your Instagram feed.

Your Trip

OLYMPISCH STADION 35 MAMA-KELLY.NL

14 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

48 See a concert at an iconic venue

Housed in a converted former church, Paradiso started out as a hippie squat in the 1960s and has since grown into Amsterdam’s most iconic music venue. Check the agenda on paradiso.nl to see what’s on. DURATION: 2 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Search for treasure at Europe’s biggest flea market

You’re always guaranteed to find a bargain at the IJ-Hallen flea market, which takes over a former shipyard at NDSM Wharf for one weekend each month. The 500 stands pedalling their wares offer unique homeware, trinkets, vintage fashion and so much more. Dates vary, so check ijhallen.nl for details.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 80) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

MARJOLEIN VAN DER KLAAUW ©©MARJOLEIN VAN DER KLAAUW

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Play to win

Delve into the history of life on the canals at the Museum of the Canals (Het Grachtenhuis), or get to know the Keizersgracht canal’s most famous residents at Museum Van Loon (both free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Bring out your competitive streak with a game of boules. Mooie Boules in Amsterdam Oost (East) combines the traditional French jeu de boules (similar to bowls) with drinks, dancing, live music and even a mini food hall with six delicious offerings, from pho to poké bowls.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Scope out prestigious addresses

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Spot the doll’s house in the Rijksmuseum that inspired Jessie Burton’s novel, The Miniaturist.

MUSEUMSTRAAT 1 RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

hours in Amsterdam

Take a day trip to Zaanse Schans

Get a taste of old-fashioned Dutch life at the historic village of Zaanse Schans, where traditional houses, windmills and workshops seem frozen in time. At this time of year, the surrounding fields and dykes are alive with wildlife, from water birds to rare-breed goats and cattle.

See what awaits at Fort Pampus

This 19th-century fort located on a tiny island off the shores of Amsterdam is a UNESCO World Heritage site, accessible only by boat. The island is open to visitors from April to November, so hop on a ferry and be among the first of the year to discover its secrets. DURATION: HALF A DAY

DURATION: 3-4 HOURS

Be surrounded by blooms

Take in the tulips

Picnic underneath the blossoming trees in the Amsterdamse Bos, Amsterdam’s bucolic forest.

This is the time of year to cycle through the brightly striped region where 70% of the world’s flowers are grown. Don’t miss a visit to Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse: a gigantic 32-hectare park dedicated to the national flower.

DURATION: 1-2 HOURS

DURATION: HALF A DAY

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OPERA OPERA FORWARD FESTIVAL – March 13 – 22

RITRATTO (OFF) – A living work of art March 13 – 19

AUFSTIEG UND FALL DER STADT MAHAGONNY (OFF) – Where paradise becomes hell March 16 – April 5

DAS JAGDGEWEHR (OFF) – Love, death and loneliness March 17 & 19

A SONG FOR THE MOON (OFF) – Family opera (6+) March 18 – 25

DIE FRAU OHNE SCHATTEN – Straussian ‘Zauberflöte’ April 25 – May 20

CARMEN –

Illusion of liberty May 12 – June 1

BALLET GISELLE –

Captivating ballet classic February 21 – March 8

UNBOXING BALLET 2 (TOUR) –

Classic masterpieces, Hans van Manen and new work March 7 – 29

FOUR SEASONS –

Electrifying, edgy and inventive ballet April 4 – 19

GRIMM (TOUR) –

Ballet meets hiphop in a fairy tale adventure April 16 – June 7

operaballet.nl

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R F)

Garden Therapy New Dutch Cuisine High Spirits Centrum Shopping Delicious Dumplings Dining Out Oost Shopping Shared Dining Dutch Design Zuid Shopping

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Madame Cyclette

Balance out all those excesses and bike on over to this bright and cheery all-day semi-vegetarian restaurant opposite Olympic Stadium. The menu is 70% veg-led, though there are some seafood and poultry options, too. Expect mushroom burgers, crispy kale salad with potato and smoked egg, no-waste carrot cake, and kombucha on tap. STADIONPLEIN 24 MADAMECYCLETTE.AMSTERDAM

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Eat

Protect those peepers with Dutch label Scotch & Soda’s just-launched collection of sunglasses (M/F, from €105)

18 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

VARIOUS LOCATIONS SCOTCH-SODA.COM

Restaurant Gijsbrecht

Way out in Zuidas, tucked between trees in a tiny park, is a local treasure that deserves to be discovered. Expect Dutch cheese, oysters and charcuterie, and a seasonal menu inspired by local ingredients, with spot-on wine pairings. Think tomato salad with sea fig, smoked yoghurt and hazelnut dressing (€9.50, pictured) or rosy duck breast with broccolini, sweet potato, lentil puree, red-fleshed apple and duck liver sauce (€25). Tip: book a buffet-style Sunday brunch (€28.50) on the wide waterside terrace, where the chef prepares freshly grilled fish, meat and vegetarian dishes, while you enjoy live music and cocktails. VAN LEIJENBERGHLAAN 320 RESTAURANTGIJSBRECHT.COM

Sangria Festival at De Vergulden Eenhoorn

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Buy a pack of vegan Farm Brothers cookies (€2.99 at Albert Heijn) and you’ll literally save the Earth by turning degraded farmland organic. VARIOUS LOCATIONS AH.NL

Oriole Garden Bistro

Garden Therapy We can’t think of a better way to ring in spring than by dining on fresh, flexitarian food, surrounded by greenery.

@ TK PHOTOGRAPHY

hen temperatures go up in Amsterdam, it seems everyone is out on a terrace enjoying the sun. No surprise, perhaps, in a climate where it’s considered sinful to let any sunbeam go to waste, and where restaurants seem to be dusting off their outdoor furniture earlier and earlier every year. But why settle for a cramped pavement patio bathed in exhaust fumes when you can dine surrounded by nature instead? If you know where to look, Amsterdam offers a staggering selection of restaurants ensconced in leafy parks and secreted away in courtyard gardens. Places where you can enjoy an alfresco meal in the dappled light of trees, with a side of lush greenery and colourful spring blooms. Many of these eateries seem to extend the green theme to their cuisine, with vegetable-forward menus featuring seasonal, organic, locally grown ingredients. Some, like Restaurant De Kas and Dignita Hoftuin (see sidebar) even grow their produce on-site. A few are located in the secret gardens of historic buildings, like Restaurant Merkelbach (Middenweg 72), Lion Noir (Reguliersdwarsstraat 28), and De Vergulden Eenhoorn (Ringdijk 58). And others simply offer a wonderful park-side oasis from hectic city life, like Mossel & Gin (Gosschalklaan 12) and Proeflokaal ‘t Blauwe Theehuis (Vondelpark 5).

Bring the benefits of the great outdoors inside with Aromatherapy Associates’ new Forest Therapy Wellness Mist (€22) from Babassu Beauty Boutique & Spa Spa. SPUISTRAAT 207 BABASSU.NL

Along the city’s oldest canal sits a bistro that exudes charm in everything from its recently renovated interior to its Med-led menu and classic cocktails with a botanical twist. A secret garden terrace only adds to its monumental appeal. OUDEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 197 ORIOLEBISTRO.NL

Restaurant De Kas

In a former municipal greenhouse out in Frankendael Park, Amsterdam’s famous farm-to-table pioneer has been growing and serving some of the city’s best seasonal, organic food since 2001. KAMERLINGH ONNESLAAN 3 RESTAURANTDEKAS.NL

Dignita Hoftuin

Tucked away in a courtyard garden behind the Hermitage Amsterdam is a brilliant spot for bang-on all-day brunches. The courgette and chickpea fritters with grilled halloumi, minty yoghurt, poached eggs and cashew nut dukkah are particularly good. NIEUWE HERENGRACHT 18A EATWELLDOGOOD.NL

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At Insta-proof new poffertjes specialist Boldoot, puffy little buckwheat pancakes are prepared on an old-fashioned copper stove.

Eat & Drink

KALVERSTRAAT 96 BOLDOOTAMSTERDAM.NL

20 | NEW DUTCH CUISINE

Restaurant Felix

In a high-ceilinged 18th-century dining room overlooking Keizersgracht, a minimalist modern décor references the style rooms of the Dutch Golden Age. Chef Floris van Straalen’s accomplished local cuisine (€49 for a fourcourse menu) combines inspiration from the past with contemporary touches, including culinary nods to events at the famous Felix Meritis Centre for Arts, Culture & Science. KEIZERSGRACHT 324 FELIXMERITIS.NL/RESTAURANT-FELIX

Local is Lekker

Carstens Brasserie

@ JAN KEES STEENMAN

Blue

@ MARVIN DUIKER

With a wealth of local ingredients from the Netherlands’ fertile soils, rich pastures and teeming seas, Amsterdam’s young chefs seem eager to reinvent their once-tired local cuisine, with more ‘New Dutch’ restaurants springing up than ever before.

Enjoy a multi-course meal at one of Amsterdam’s best Dutch brasseries while your kids (aged 2-10) playfully learn about local food. At the monthly Sunday Aan Tafel (At the Table) lunch, children choose from a special kids’ menu, after which they follow an ingredient workshop, make a starter for the parents, and create their own dessert. HASSELAERSSTEEG 1 CARSTENSBRASSERIE.NL

This Schiphol-based newcomer takes airport dining to new heights with the culinary signature of Michelinstarred chef Joris Bijdendijk, an initiator of the Low Food movement, which aims to create a ‘Dutch food revolution’. Tuck into dishes like beetroot mille-feuille with dashi beurre blanc and 24-month aged Dutch soy sauce, in a restful room with views of departing planes. Plus, don’t miss the Dutch cheese plate. KLM NON-SCHENGEN CROWN LOUNGE (BETWEEN E & F GATES) LOUNGE.KLM.COM

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ROZENGRACHT 106 SAL-AMSTERDAM.NL

Sample 74 types of mezcal and magnificent mezcal-infused cocktails at Argentinian restaurant Salmuera, situated in a monumental former distillery.

High Spirits

Amsterdam may be best-known as a genever town, but there’s something for every type of liquor lover here.

isiting a proeflokaal to sample some old-school genevers and local spirits is a must while you’re in Amsterdam. Try a liqueur tasting or kopstootproeverij (a selection of tap beers with matching genever) at the city’s ‘last traditional distillery’ A. van Wees. Journey back to 1679 at Amsterdam’s oldest ‘tasting tavern’, Wynand Fockink where you can slurp on over 80 authentic genevers and liqueurs. If you’re a

rum fan, make your way to the rum lounge at Latin-American specialist Roses by Sal, Caribbean bar Rum Barrel or Hawaiian tiki bar Hula Hula. Or unlock the secrets of the world’s rarest whiskies at Vault Bar, where you can order the prohibitively rare The Dalmore 40YO or Port Ellen 39 Years Untold Stories by the glass. For more accessibly priced whisky cravings, J.D. William’s Whisky Bar has an extensive range of drams and whisky-based cocktails.

WYNAND FOCKINK, PIJLSTEEG 31, WYNAND-FOCKINK.NL * PROEFLOKAAL A. VAN WEES, HERENGRACHT 319, PROEFLOKAALVANWEES.NL * ROSES BY SAL, REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT 40, ROSES-AMSTERDAM.NL RUM BARREL, JAVASTRAAT 143/SPAARNDAMMERSTRAAT 17, RUMBARREL.NL * HULA HULA, LIJNBAANSGRACHT 161, HULA-HULA.NL * VAULT BAR, HERENGRACHT 542-556, FACEBOOK.COM/VAULTBARAMSTERDAM J.D. WILLIAMS’ WHISKY BAR, PRINSENSTRAAT 5, JDWILLIAMSWHISKYBAR.COM

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22 | SHOPPING IN CENTRUM

Kalverstraat * Rokin * Heiligeweg * Utrechtsestraat * Negen Straatjes Haarlemmerdijk

Pretty Central Whether you prefer canal-side shopping, lesser-known shopping areas or the heaving high street, Amsterdam’s centre offers it all.

ost visitors make a beeline for De Bijenkorf, Amsterdam’s best-known premium department store, or head down nearby Kalverstraat, the Netherlands’ most famous shopping street. But if you enjoy exploring, you’ll be rewarded with some splendid shops secreted away on otherwise unremarkable streets. Even the most jaded shopper will enjoy the micro-neighbourhood known as the Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’), the adjacent Jordaan area and nearby Haarlemmerdijk, where the hunt for that special little something from Amsterdam is made all the more pleasurable by picturesque surroundings. Tip: Varied Utrechtsestraat is a local’s favourite.

Gray Label Store

Known for its GOTS-certified unisex apparel ‘for the little minimalist’ (ages 0-10), this Amsterdam label’s new 58 square-metre brand boutique has everything to make it attractive for shoppers big and small, including a restful colour scheme, child-sized cupboards and a book corner. HUIDENSTRAAT 17 GRAY-LABEL.COM

LEGO® Store Amsterdam

At the first LEGO® Store in the Netherlands, which opened in December, you’ll find LEGO® sculptures ‘with a nod to Dutch history and culture’, such as an Escher staircase and Amsterdam’s Munttoren tower, a ‘Minifigure Factory’ for customisable figurines, a ‘Mosaic Maker’ that creates personalised portraits out of LEGO® blocks, plus plenty of exclusives. Beat the spring chill with a cotton cashmere-blend crew neck jumper from Uniqlo (€29.90).

KALVERSTRAAT 57 LEGO.COM/EN-GB/STORES/STORES/NL/AMSTERDAM

ROKIN 12 UNIQLO.COM

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Spanish sportswear brand Muroexe is making a name for itself with comfy ‘sneak-to-shoe’ hybrids (M/F, from €70).

Salt Water Amsterdam

Malaysia-born Wanting Choo’s stylish shop is a showcase for her ‘love of artisanship, wabi-sabi aesthetics and natural living’. Discover sustainable finds from around the globe, from French linen loungewear and Provencal soy wax candles to Australian straw hats, Japanese Hasami tableware and Donabe pots. There’s also a small café with coffee, tea and sweets.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Tashy Fernandez (38), marketing director of Spanish vegan footwear and accessories brand Muroexe

Hop to it and get a gold bunny for Easter (€2.99) at the new Lindt Boutique.

HAARLEMMERDIJK 66 SALTWATERAMSTERDAM.COM

HEILIGEWEG 22 CHOCOLATE.LINDT.COM

‘HOLY WAY’ FOR SHOPAHOLICS:

Perfect a vinyl-like pout with MAC Cosmetics’ innovative wax-free Patent Cosmetics Paint Lip Lacquer (in 15 shades, €24.50).

Heiligeweg

This former pilgrim’s route now connects the popular Leidsestraat and Kalverstraat shopping streets, ideal for those on a mission to find international brands like Lindt (pictured above), PUMA, American Vintage, & Other Stories, Kiehl’s, DIESEL, L’Occitane and MAC Cosmetics. Or pass through the medieval Het Rasphuis prison gate to reach the Kalvertoren shopping centre.

‘We were very lucky to find this location on one of Amsterdam’s most popular shopping streets because we’ve been looking for a gateway to Northern Europe. This forward-thinking city is the perfect match for our minimalistic style, our type of customer and our ethos as a cruelty-free vegan brand. Our shoes have the quality and performance of a sneaker and the elegance for any occasion. Made for everyday life in the city, our designs are worn by young men and women who want comfort, whether they’re on their way to the office or out and about afterwards. Since opening, our new Dutch customers have remarked that they like the simplicity, and wouldn’t have thought that such classic-looking shoes could be so light and comfortable. I’m sure they’ll be happy to hear that we’ll be launching a fashion line later this year.’ KALVERSTRAAT 163 EU.MUROEXE.COM

HEILIGEWEG 5 MACCOSMETICS.NL

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For vegetarian, chicken or pork momo (steamed or fried Himalayan dumplings, from €6.90 for three) head to MOMOiT.

Eat

TEN KATE MARKT (STREET STALL) MOMOIT.NL

24 | WORLD OF DUMPLINGS

Delicious Dumplings From Italian tortellini to Indonesian pangsit and Indian samosas, there are so many variations on the theme of dough wrapped around a filling. Here are a few of our favourite dumpling spots in Amsterdam. Oleg Pelmeni Bar

WILLEMSPARKWEG 177 FACEBOOK.COM/BATONIKHINKALI

Last summer, owner Levan Tskhadadze found a permanent home in Zuid for his restaurant specialised in Georgian mountain dumplings. His king-sized khinkali come stuffed with cheese, beef or mushrooms (from €13.50 for six). Also on the menu: khachapuri (cheesefilled bread topped with an egg), mtsvadi (pork skewers marinated in Georgian wine) and other regional specialities.

Batoni Khinkali

This new Russian-owned eatery is the place to try the dumplings ‘at the heart of Russian cuisine’. There are four varieties of pelmeni on the menu, from chicken, salmon and beef to mushroom and potato (from €7 for six, served with sour cream). Or, go for the porcini borsch, syrniki (Slavic cottage cheese pancakes with cherry sauce) or medovik (Russian honey cake). ROETERSSTRAAT 10A PELMENIBAR.NL

Dumplings

Kim Chi Wow

For real-deal Chinese jiaozi seek out this kiosk with a cult following on the edge of Westerpark, where a Beijing-born chef prepares vegetarian or pork potstickers (steamed or baked) and serves them with proprietary peanut sambal (from €5.60 for six).

Visit this colourful Korean in De Pijp for tasty kimchi and chicken mandu, served with gochujang sauce (€5.50 for five), followed by a bibimbap rice bowl or japchae noodles. Better yet, they also do takeaway and delivery.

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Bar Manager Pim Groothuys’ pursuit of ‘the perfect cocktail’ pays off in the refreshing Oaxaca (€11), a Paloma with Nuestra Soledad Mezcal and rosemary syrup at Edel by Dennis.

Easy-going Gastronomy In the edgy De Baarsjes neighbourhood, Daalder’s Dennis Huwaë shows off his rebellious side at his street art splashed new bar-restaurant, Edel by Dennis.

ucked away in a former goldsmiths’ college called Het Sieraad (‘the jewel’), it’s too tempting not to call this recently opened establishment a hidden gem. Not only is the building a prime example of the Amsterdam School style of architecture, but its unusual pentagonal plot – surrounded by water on three sides – offers one of the city’s best terraces. A laid-back vibe belies the talent that works here, with a kitchen under the guidance of Huwaë (Gault & Millau’s ‘Most Promising Chef of the Year

2018’) and an accomplished yet affable front-of-house team. ‘It’s the opposite of a concept-driven restaurant,’ he says. ‘Just my favourite dishes from Amsterdam to Ambon, made with the same premium ingredients, techniques and unexpected twists I’d use in my fine dining, but simpler and slightly less refined.’ Think Reblochon flammkuchen, fancy fish tacos and gourmet chicken satay. There’s also a more cheffy ‘Menu Innovatief’ (from €49.50 for five courses). POSTJESWEG 1 EDELBYDENNIS.NL

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Olive lace blouse by local label by-bar (€59.59) at Blitskikker.

26 | SHOPPING IN OOST

Blitskikker

This concept store-cum-café with in-house children’s hairdresser is a good one to visit if you have little travellers (ages 0-12) in tow. Enjoy your coffee or shop for toys by brands like Janod, Mellipou, Viking Toys and Magformers, or children’s clothing by local labels by-bar and Noppies, while the kids keep themselves busy in the play area.

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Middenweg

JAVASTRAAT 117 BLITSKIKKERAMSTERDAM.NL

The next-gen stores on this upand-coming street are still spread far and wide but run the gamut from cute kids clothing boutiques to achingly trendy bike shops and concept stores. You’ll also find a sneaker specialist, a local eyewear brand, a brow bar and Amsterdam’s oldest street market here.

Javastraat * Czaar Peterstraat * Middenweg * Linnaeusstraat

Go East Discover an eclectic slice of the real Amsterdam with our essential guide to shopping in Oost.

Find trendy kids’ clothing (ages 0-12) and the cutest accessories for their room, like Doing Goods’ tiger rug (€89) at Lemonade. MIDDENWEG 46 MYLEMONADE.NL

e urge you to get out of your Canal Ring comfort zone and explore Amsterdam’s exciting East-side. Because these days, some of the city’s most interesting shops, best markets and trendiest restaurants and bars can be found a stone’s throw southeast of Centrum in the sprawling neighbourhood known as Oost. Sometimes compared to

London’s Soho and New York’s Greenwich Village, the district is actually made up of many distinct shopping areas. There’s plenty to explore here, from the diverse Dapperbuurt with its dynamic daily market, to the up-and-coming Oostpoort, chic Middenweg and hip Javastraat, so hop on your bike and get going.

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Shop vegan bathroom essentials with organic cherry blossom extract (from €2.50) at HEMA.

HEMA Oostpoort

Looking for original Dutch design, affordable souvenirs, brilliant basics for the whole family, Easter goodies, an extra suitcase for your shopping haul, or traditional Dutch specialities such as rookworst (smoked sausage), salty liquorice or pink tompoezen (custard slices)? You’ll find it, and so much more, at this enduringly popular department store, which was founded as a price point retailer in Amsterdam circa 1926. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 245, HEMA.NL

Things I Like, Things I Love

The two stylists behind Things I Like, Things I Love harmoniously blend hammered silver jewellery with quirky brass home accessories, earthy ceramics, bright slogan bathroom products and their own ‘one size’ (XS to M) women’s fashion label. Think dark floral maxi dresses, zebra velvet flared leggings (pictured, from €39.99) and open-back tops with lacy peek-a-boo bras. JAVASTRAAT 75 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM

INSIDER INTERVIEW Sanne Spaargaren (43), co-owner of MHOOM ‘We believe in doing what feels right, and that’s pretty much where all our inspiration comes from. The key words for our fashion, hair and lifestyle boutique are sustainable, fair and beautiful. We love to find things that fit within our lifestyle, although that’s a process that takes a looot of time. We choose European products made from high-quality materials for people who have an eye for unique designs. My personal favourite is definitely German designer Hannes Roether’s shabby chic collection. I also love FRISUR’s clean-lined outfits. We’re located in a very nice neighbourhood, which is still a good mix of locals and tourists. We're a little bit of a hidden gem; you need to know where to find us, because we’re not located on a busy shopping street, and I find that this creates a very special ambiance.’ NIEUWE KERKSTRAAT 6 MHOOM.COM

Pick up scented soy candles, handmade in Utrecht (€22.50 at MHOOM). V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

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Share pan-Asian midnight snacks at new self-service bar Happyhappyjoyjoy Downtown (until 3 am on weekends), where everything – from pad thai to pork satay – is under a tenner. SINGEL 460 HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY.ASIA

28 | SHARED DINING

Sharing is Caring Sure, the rise of ‘small plates’ designed to be shared has become irritatingly ‘in’, but let’s not forget that most of us regularly pass around a plate at home without giving it much thought (roast chicken! pasta!) and it’s still a great way to taste more of the menu. Here, then, are our favourite food spots for family-style feasts. TOZI Restaurant

Envy

Cicchetti (Italian small plates) play a leading role at this Zuid newcomer, supported by Venetian aperitivi and an all-Italian cast of wines and classic cocktails. Order the show-stealing buffalo ricotta ravioli with black truffle (€12, pictured) or zucchini fritti (deep-fried courgette, €7).

New chef Bobby Rust continues this mainstay’s shared dining concept with well-crafted dishes with a Southern European slant and delicate touch (from €49 for four courses). Misoglazed Slow Food-listed potatoes with smoked eel, grilled leeks, bonito flakes and Vichysoisse is a must-order.

KONINGINNEWEG 34 TOZIAMSTERDAM.COM

PRINSENGRACHT 381 ENVY.NL

At the Kwok family’s award-winning Cantonese restaurant, you can choose from over 80 types of dim sum and an extensive selection of wok dishes, clay pot specialities and roast meats, but don’t overlook the siu long bao (soup dumplings), crispy scallion pancakes and hor fun stir-fry.

LEIDSESTRAAT 95 FULLMOONGARDEN.NL

El Pibe Bar & CoCina

Full Moon Garden

This reimagined tapas bar takes its inspiration from ‘the history, flavours and cultures of South America’. Stop by for sharply balanced ceviche classico (€12.50), Argentinian steaks (from €9.25), chicken and egg empanadas with aji peppers (€7.50 for two) and passionfruit-infused piscos (€10.50).

WESTERSTRAAT 86 ELPIBE-AMSTERDAM.NL

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For a gold standard souvenir, choose an 18K-plated ‘Amsterdam’ necklace by local label All the Luck in the World (€35 at the I amsterdam Store). DE RUIJTERKADE 28 A-D IAMSTERDAM.COM/EN/I-AMSTERDAM-STORE

Dutch Design Gold Whimsical, witty and decidedly different, Dutch design remains as good as gold.

ou could argue that Dutch Design has existed as long as artisans in the Netherlands have, well, designed things. But many experts agree that the movement as we know it today has only really existed for around 27 years. Apparently, it all started when Gijs Bakker and Renny Ramakers presented their sober, simple designs with a twist of dry Dutch humour as ‘Droog Design’ at the Milan Furniture Fair in 1993. Since then, Dutch Design has

been a favourite of high-style fans the world over. Today, many local designers are giving old Dutch crafts and objects a much-needed makeover. Riffs on this theme include a press-on tattoo inspired by Golden Age painter Jan Davidsz. de Heem’s famous floral still life (€3.95 at @DROOG), a classic armchair made from burned wood (€4,378 at Moooi) and a gold version of Lambertus van Een’s 17th-century Flower Pyramid (€375 at Rijksmuseum Shop).

RIJKSMUSEUM SHOP, MUSEUMSTRAAT 1, RIJKSMUSEUMSHOP.NL * @DROOG, STAALSTRAAT 7A, DROOG.COM * MOOOI, WESTERSTRAAT 187, MOOOI.COM

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30 | SHOPPING IN ZUID

Zuid * Museum Quarter * De Pijp

Chic Shopping Home to the Netherlands’ most famous museums, this area is also one of its most interesting shopping destinations.

uid offers it all, from much-admired Old Masters to the latest collections of the world’s most famous fashion houses, as well as deluxe designer furniture shops and trendy concept stores. The Museum District, with its polished P.C. Hooftstraat shopping street, is best-known as an area to flash your cash, but there’s also a charming farmer’s market (ZuiderMRKT) behind the Royal Concertgebouw on Saturdays. Meanwhile, bargain shoppers and style aficionados mustn’t miss adjacent De Pijp, where the century-old Albert Cuyp Market contrasts its hip surrounding shopping streets. Tip: Stacked with concept stores and of-the-moment boutiques, Gerard Doustraat is a must-visit.

Das Gaaf

Owner Ellen Plessius’ colourful art meets mid-century design at this charming vintage furniture store with a name that translates as ‘that’s nice’. Expect round retro teak coffee tables, mid-century chrome coat racks, Hollywood Regency drinks trolleys and West German ceramic vases sitting on ’60s cabinets – at very reasonable prices, too. KONINGINNEWEG 220 DASGAAF.COM

WAHTS Brand Store

Situated on De Pijp’s best shopping street is the recently opened brand store of Dutch men’s fashion label WAHTS, which according to style bible Wallpaper* ‘makes tailored leisurewear that’s dapper for down-time’. From merino roll-neck jumpers and retro tennis shoes to sleek bomber jackets, it’s all about ‘contemporary comfort’ for the modern man here. GERARD DOUSTRAAT 75 WAHTS.COM

‘Contemporary comfort for dapper down-time.’ (Crew-neck jumpers €129 at WAHTS)

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This rose gold and black enamel Bodes & Bode ring lets your hands do the talking (€2,750). CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 7 BODESENBODE.COM

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Cornelis Schuytstraat

While nearby P.C. Hooftstraat is a splurging spot for luxe labels, this charming street − often described as ‘a slice of Paris’ − offers more avant-garde and niche premium fashion and beauty boutiques, a designer vintage store, artisanal food and drink specialists, and the city’s fanciest flower shop and greengrocers.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Marie-José Schut (46), owner of MJ Amsterdam

Make a multicoloured statement in FFluid suede and tech mesh trainers (M/F, €690 at Fendi).

Fendi

Furnished with Fior di Pesco marble, pale pink carpets and sketches by former creative director Karl Lagerfeld on the walls, it’s refinement all the way at the Italian fashion house’s brand boutique, where super-welcoming sales staff will guide you through the women’s collection and accessories line on the ground floor and the men’s collection in the basement. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 71 FENDI.COM

‘When I saw this historic building with its bright urban garden, it was love at first sight. Situated in one of the city’s nicest neighbourhoods, the area truly has everything, combining an urban vibe with a real neighbourhood feel. A visit to the salon can easily be combined with an espresso around the corner or a stroll down the nearby market. But it’s the personal approach that keeps our clients coming back to our award-winning salon. Our signature treatment is a customised 60-minute facial, using Dermalogica products or, for fans of green beauty, the organic Absolution or vegan Comfort Zone ranges. We also offer deep tissue massages and Alliance LPG body treatments, lash lifts and classic OPI pedicures. In the spring, we’re offering a new intensive peeling treatment, and later this year we hope to open a new salon: Amsterdam Oost is on my wish list.’ C E IN TU U R BAAN 201 (AN D PAM PU S L A A N 27-29) M JAM STE R DAM.N L

Luxuriate in Molton Brown’s scented bath and shower gels (€22) at MJ Amsterdam.

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Hey Amsterdam, What's on /whats-on The ultimate guide to discover whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on in Amsterdam.

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Dates for your Amsterdam agenda For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

34 37 38 40 42 43 44 46 47 48

Exhibitions Collections Festivals & Events On Stage On Screen Classical Pop & Rock LGBTI Clubbing Family Fun

Dita Von Teese From her classic Martini glass and cake routines through to exciting new acts sure to dazzle, the Queen of Burlesque brings her thrilling new show Glamonatrix to the Carré. Epitomising glamour, beauty and elegance, Dita’s seductive and sensual style is unparalleled – winning her accolades from Philip Treacy, Elton John, Christian Louboutin and many more. 27-28 MARCH, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

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Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

34 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Caravaggio-Bernini.

Baroque in Rome artists were not intent on portraying beauty alone; they also wanted to evoke emotion. Drama, dynamism and bravura, coupled with classical restraint and natural fervour, saw the creation of significant masterpieces that would have a knock-on effect on other artists throughout Europe.

In association with Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum, this exhibition features around 60 works, making it the first time that so many works from this era have been exhibited in the Netherlands. UNTIL 7 JUNE, RIJKSMUSEUM

ROOS VAN GEFFEN Eat Love Die is all about transience, as seen through the eyes of Dutch artist Roos van Geffen. The installation juxtaposes previous works with new works along with a photographic series titled Unfocussed Days, which comes together in a dialogue about life and death.

ARISING FROM THE GROUND Blending sculpture, photography and film, Mariken Wessels’ exhibition considers the obese body in motion. Inspired by a work by Eadweard Muybridge, a key figure in motion photography, Wessels’ work is interested in the material qualities of the human body.

12 MARCH-31 MAY, TOT ZOVER

14 MARCH-25 APRIL THE RAVESTIJN GALLERY

t was in Rome around 1600 that the beginnings of European baroque would unfold and, with it, a new artistic language. Explore this fascinating exhibition focusing on the inimitable painter Caravaggio, sculptor Bernini and their contemporaries. These ambitious

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Bali – Behind the Scenes For most of us, Bali means endless sandy beaches, temples, rolling rice paddies and perfect surf conditions. Over the past 100 years, it has developed into a mecca for tourists, who have brought not only prosperity to the island but have also placed a burden on island life for those who live there. This exhibition explores Bali’s resilience in surprising ways, from a Hindu priest offering insight to an activist, to an artist showing how plastic waste can be transformed. Plus, discover rituals that tourists don’t usually experience; learn about the island’s colonial past; and feast your eyes on rare artefacts including intricate wood carvings alongside the work of contemporary Balinese artists. UNTIL 10 JANUARY 2021, TROPENMUSEUM

Black

in Rembrandt’s Time

Accompanying the annual World Press Photo exhibition, the World Press Photo Festival showcases the best of visual journalism and storytelling. This engaging and dynamic programme includes presentations, meet-ups and workshops that provide insight into the world of photojournalists and how they strive to tell stories that resonate. 17-18 APRIL, WESTERGASFABRIEK

DUTCH DESIGN Interior design has been a collecting interest of the Stedelijk since 1934. Using its impressive collection, this exhibition interweaves the history of design with key pieces. See acclaimed designs by the likes of Thonet, Gerrit Rietveld and Charlotte Perriand. UNTIL APRIL 2021 STEDELIJK MUSEUM

World Press Photo Festival

In the 1600s, a number of artists were keen to capture all aspects of the visual world, from the impact of the transatlantic slave trade through to a small community of black people who lived in Amsterdam’s Jodenbreestraat. This exhibition looks at the work of Rembrandt and his contemporaries, and how they depicted the city’s diverse cultural population, not as minor players but as central subjects. 6 MARCH-31 MAY REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

‘Fashion on a Ration at the Resistance Museum is about the creative solutions people came up with to compensate for lack amid a horrible war. These ideas are only becoming more relevant in our times of material mindfulness – and inspiring great Dutch fashion designers of today such as Ronald van der Kemp. I can’t wait to see the wedding dresses made from parachute silks up close…’

INSIDER TIP

Celia Rosa (49), art director

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Exhibitions 36 |

Nam June Paik

As a tribute to one of the museum’s greatest benefactors, François Gérard Waller, Thanks to Waller 2010-2020 at the Rijksmuseum brings together a selection of decorative papers, drawings and prints. UNTIL 7 JUNE

Nam June Paik, a video visionary and pioneer of the medium, is the focus of this large-scale retrospective at the Stedelijk, in collaboration with Tate Modern and San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. This multidisciplinary artist encouraged audience interaction with his radical, experimental and playful pieces that erased the boundaries between art and technology and between East and West. Investigating technology’s impact on globalisation and everyday life, his prescient pieces channel the rise of TV culture. 14 MARCH-23 AUGUST STEDELIJK MUSEUM

In the Picture Featuring some 75 artists’ portraits, it’s fair to say that this exhibition has a facial focus. Most of the images come from the second half of the 19th century and the early 20th century, making it a veritable who’s who of artists, including Vincent van Gogh, Edvard Munch, Gustave Courbet, Francis Bacon and Helene Schjerfbeck. Plus, you can also see how modern and contemporary artists have been inspired by Van Gogh himself. UNTIL 24 MAY, VAN GOGH MUSEUM

VIVIANE SASSEN: VENUS & MERCURY Taking inspiration from the French court in the 17th and 18th centuries, photographer Viviane Sassen has created a monumental exhibition that takes over the entire building and garden at Huis Marseille. Images and installations reveal fascinating stories about MarieAntoinette, royal mistresses and fortune tellers. Expect melancholic narratives imbued with eroticism, power, intrigue, illness, decay and death. Interwoven into the exhibition are stories from the same period that took place in Amsterdam with poetic texts by Marjolijn van Heemstra. Actress Tilda Swinton’s voice-over can be heard in several, making for a hypnotic experience. 14 MARCH-31 MAY, HUIS MARSEILLE

PERSPECTIVES ON THE HOLOCAUST Not for the faint of heart, this moving exhibition tells the story of the Holocaust through the experiences of 14 survivors. They relay their stories of deportation, uncertainty and escape attempts, not to mention exclusion, persecution and murder. UNTIL MID-2020 HOLLANDSCHE SCHOUWBURG

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Collections TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Fruitkoopman

Johan van Hell, 1936

rtist, musician and committed socialist Johan van Hell committed himself to capturing the life of working people. In 1925, he began creating lithographs to provide working-class folks with access to affordable art, and he was known to give music and painting lessons to students who couldn’t pay tuition. This painting, whose title translates as ‘fruit seller’, depicts a man running a market stall and trying to sell his wares to a woman passing by. Bananas, peaches, oranges and other foodstuffs draw the eye, but don’t forget the curious dog in the foreground, who looks ready for a scratch behind the ears.

COMPOSITION, JACOBA VAN HEEMSKERCK, 1920 The bright colours of this glass mosaic and the playful shapes lead the eye in dozens of directions while the shimmery tiles add a welcome touch of texture. Van Heemskerck lived in Paris and Berlin, mingled with the likes of Piet Mondrian and broke away from the conventions of her time. STEDELIJK MUSEUM

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

DRESS (MANTUA) WITH TRAIN, CIRCA 1750-1760 This dramatic dress was worn by Helena Slicher on her wedding day in 1759. Large panniers support the skirt – which is roughly two metres wide – and there are hoops around the hips to help hold it aloft. The floral embroidery creates a beautiful garden around the hemline, complete with golden pineapples. RIJKSMUSEUM

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Festivals & Events 38 | TEXT: STEVE KORVER

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Tulip Festival

The Tulip Festival brightens up Amsterdam’s streets throughout the whole month of April (or for as long as the tulips are in bloom). The event sees more than 500,000 tulips go on display across the city, with a stroll or bike ride past its 85 different locations a fantastic way to explore the capital in new and surprising ways. APRIL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Taste of Amsterdam © CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Each year, Taste of Amsterdam takes over the city’s Amstelpark for four days of eating, drinking and entertainment. Top chefs from leading restaurants fashion starter-sized plates of some of their signature dishes for visitors to sample in this unbeatable al fresco feast – rounded out with workshops, children’s activities and wine tasting. 29 MAY-1 JUNE, AMSTELPARK

King’s Day Held every year on 27 April, King’s Day (Koningsdag, previously known as Queen’s Day) is renowned for being one of the biggest, loudest and most colourful festivities in the Netherlands, and especially so in Amsterdam. King’s Day is an orange-filled celebration for the king’s birthday, during which basically every sidewalk becomes a flea market, and every corner transforms into a concert or a party. Meanwhile, Vondelpark forms the focus for more child-friendly fun. It’s also important to note that the party actually kicks off the night before on the 26th. And don’t bother trying to pace yourself – no one else does...

RECORD STORE DAY Get back in the groove for Record Store Day, which dominates Amsterdam’s musical landscape every April with various events and small-scale concerts. This international event promotes the importance of independent record shops in Amsterdam and beyond. 18 APRIL, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

27 APRIL, CITY-WIDE

LIBERATION DAY Every 4 May, the Netherlands commemorates the victims of war. Remembrance Day gatherings take place in various locations; the first wreath is laid by the King and Queen at the National Monument, just before the two minutes of silence at 8 pm. On 5 May, Liberation Day is celebrated through countless musical festivals. 4-5 MAY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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The free Rollende Keukens (Rolling Kitchens) food festival sees dozens of food trucks pop up at Westergasfabriek to create one enormous open-air restaurant. 20-24 MAY, WESTERGASFABRIEK

Coffee Festival

Featuring over 100 artisan roasters, equipment makers and gourmet food stalls, Amsterdam Coffee Festival is the perfect event for caffeine-lovers. Attend a workshop given by some of Europe’s best baristas, grab some coffee-inspired cocktails and enjoy live music, entertainment and art. 13-15 MARCH, WESTERGASFABRIEK

Hemeltjelief! There’s always a packed programme of art, theatre and crafts to keep the family entertained the entire day at the family-friendly Hemeltjelief! festival. The stages are traditionally located along the River IJ and play host to acts including up-and-coming Amsterdam bands and DJs. 21 MAY, NOORDERLICHT, NDSM-PLEIN

Lente Kabinet

Open Tower Day

Open Tower Day allows visitors to climb – for free – both historical and modern towers across the city. You can visit in your own time or sign up for guided tours and special events. Some of the 21 participating towers include Oudekerkstoren, A’DAM LOOKOUT and Oranjekerk. Don’t forget your binoculars!

EUROVISION 2020 While the main event takes place in Rotterdam, Amsterdam will also be embracing the madness. While the details were sketchy as of press time, bars and restaurants along Reguliersdwarsstraat – ‘Amsterdam’s most famous gay street’ – are set to join forces to screen finals on large outdoor screens. 12-16 MAY REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT

21 MARCH, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL Every year, Amsterdam’s elm trees scatter the city’s streets with a blanket of blossom that is known as ‘spring snow’. To celebrate this phenomenon (and spring itself) the festival’s programme centres around its Elm Route, an 8-kilometre walking and cycling route. 21 APRIL-21 MAY VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Taking place in the beautiful surroundings of nature reserve Het Twiske, dance music festival Lente Kabinet is curated by the Dekmantel crew, purveyors of some of the city’s finest DJs and sounds. Featuring an elite roster of artists representing house, techno and bass music, the festival comes backed by a broader cultural programme of art and suitably off-the-wall events. 30-31 MAY, HET TWISKE

RESTAURANT WEEK The city’s eateries offer up memorable mouthfuls at cut-rate prices. It’s an opportunity to try discounted menus that won’t leave a nasty taste in your mouth, with Michelin-starred restaurants, lauded celebrity dining haunts and trendy eateries usually involved. 16 MARCH-2 APRIL VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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On Stage

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Four Seasons

he Dutch National Ballet presents three new works by internationally renowned choreographers in an attempt at an overview of the state of the art of dance today. All three are injecting elements of classical ballet with new influences and impulses, resulting in productions that are edgy, inventive and ultracontemporary. Wayne McGregor’s Yugen, a co-production with the UK’s The Royal Ballet, is inspired by Bernstein’s Chichester Psalms, and alternates lyrical dance scenes with dynamic group parts. David Dawson’s The Four Seasons, a coproduction with the Semperoper Ballett, uses Max Richter’s ethereal adaptation of Vivaldi’s famous composition. Both are Dutch premières. The triple bill is concluded by the world première of a work by the Spanish choreographer Juanjo Arqués, Manoeuvre, which is set to John Adams’ Shaker Loops. 4-19 APRIL, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

John Cleese

With a generous dose of irony and self-mockery, living legend John Cleese touches down at the Carré with his The Last Time To See Me Before I Die tour. At the ripe old age of 80, he was a prominent member of Monty Python’s Flying Circus, iconic in Fawlty Towers, and has appeared in James Bond and Harry Potter films. His wit is just as potent and absurd as ever, where hilarious anecdotes about his personal life and career are sure to receive raucous applause.

South African comedian, writer, political commentator, actor and, of course, Daily Show host Trevor Noah comes to Amsterdam as part of his Loud and Clear tour. With his typical sense of gleeful bafflement at the idiosyncrasies – and idiocies – of humankind, he dissects social and political developments and throws in a range of funny accents for good measure. 27 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

18-19 APRIL, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

Trevor Noah

MEDEA Acclaimed Australian director Simon Stone tells the classic tale of jealousy and revenge in a contemporary setting. Euripides is a successful doctor who tries to save her marriage and her career. But her mental health, family life and career deteriorate until she tumbles into the abyss. Surtitled in English on Thursdays. 23-29 MAY, ITA

BRUID TE KOOP! Providing a rare opportunity to see an opera sung in Dutch with English surtitles, De Nederlandse Reisopera performs Bruid te koop!, a contemporary, Dutch-language version of Smetana’s comic opera The Bartered Bride. The adaptation transforms the folkloristic classic into a funny, sexy fairy tale for grown-ups. 16 APRIL ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

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All-female performance collective La Isla Bonita takes on masculinity in the business world in The Managers, a hilarious and harrowing production about power, manipulation, phallocentrism and mansplaining. 2-11 APRIL, FRASCATI

Kidd Pivot

Revisor © MICHAEL SLOBODIOAN

Inspired by Nikolai Gogol’s 1836 farce, The Government Inspector, a satirical tale of political corruption in Imperial Russia, Revisor is an exuberant yet smart theatre-dance amalgamation by the renowned Canadian choreographer Crystal Pite, her fellow countryman writer Jonathon Young, and her Vancouver-based contemporary dance company Kidd Pivot.

11-13 MARCH, ITA

Children of Nora

Renowned British director and playwright Robert Icke, known for his adaptations of classic texts such as Oresteia, Oedipus, Hamlet and Mary Stuart, has written and directs the ITA ensemble in this play, a sort of follow-up to Ibsen’s A Doll’s House that looks at what happens to the children of the couple that dramatically breaks up in that story. With English surtitles on Thursdays.

1 APRIL-17 MAY, ITA

Initiated by the Dutch National Opera, the annual Opera Forward Festival combines new operas with a programme of talks. One of the highlights this year is Ritratto, a world première by young Dutch composer Willem Jeths about wealthy socialite Luisa Casati, who liked to surround herself with the prominent artists of her time. Two Brecht/Weill works are also on the programme: Rise and Fall of the City of Mahagonny, a satire on turbo-capitalism directed by Ivo van Hove, and The Seven Deadly Sins, sung in German, which stars renowned Dutch soprano Eva-Maria Westbroek. 13-22 MARCH, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

STANDALONE NDT 2 celebrates its independent spirit with old and new work by four renowned choreographers: a world première by Johan Inger; two choreographies by Ohad Naharin, Black Milk (1985) and George & Zalman (2006); and Postscript (2005) by house choreographers Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. 21 & 22 MARCH, ITA

Opera Forward Festival

FALLING MAN French director Julien Gosselin brings Don DeLillo’s novel Falling Man to the stage. Reflecting on global terrorism in post-9/11 New York, the story follows Keith Neudecker, who escapes the attack physically unscathed but is traumatised and haunted by a sense of loss. With English surtitles on Thursdays. 18-28 MARCH, ITA

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On Screen 42 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

CinemAsia Film Festival

Bond is back!

he saga of everyone’s favourite gentleman spy – played by the incomparable Daniel Craig – continues with No Time to Die. This time, Bond must come out of retirement to help find a missing scientist and save the world once again. There’s sure to be plenty of car chases, shoot-outs, demented villains and Martinis. Shaken, not stirred, of course.

Head to Amsterdam Oost for the CinemAsia Film Festival, and discover the movies wowing critics and audiences across Asia. Documentaries, blockbusters and arthouse films offer a glimpse into life in places such as Korea, Singapore and the Philippines, and there’s also a focus on the Asian diaspora experience. After catching a movie, stick around for food, talks and – if you dare – karaoke.

2 APRIL, VARIOUS CINEMAS

4-8 MARCH, STUDIO K AND RIALTO

Roze Filmdagen

Catch up on the latest in LGBTQ+ cinema at Roze Filmdagen. Since 1996, this festival has been bringing the best in queer documentaries, shorts and features from dozens of countries to Amsterdam. Expect to see tales of fierce drag queens, forbidden love and budding romance. There are also appearances by filmmakers, actors and other interesting folk, so don’t miss out. 12-22 MARCH, WESTERGASFABRIEK

IMAGINE FILM FESTIVAL Fantasy, horror and science fiction – you can see it all at the Imagine Film Festival, which brings together movies from around the world, including a Japanese zombie flick, a Tunisian tale about an evil witch and some of the strangest shorts you’ll ever see. Get ready to jump out of your seat! 16-25 APRIL, EYE FILMMUSEUM

‘Imagine Film FestiINSIDER TIP val is one of the best film festivals in Amsterdam. They show a solid selection of independent cinema. They’ve even been very supportive about my series of short films about Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. They deserve all the attention they can get.’ Rene Nuijens (52), film director

Women Make Film

Roughly 14 hours long, this programme centred on the documentary by Mark Cousins explores the female filmmakers who have often been overlooked by history, despite making influential masterpieces. 2 MAY-14 JUNE, EYE FILMMUSEUM

TRAVELLING WHILE BLACK The African-American experience comes to life with Travelling While Black. Put on a virtual reality headset and you’ll discover Ben’s Chili Bowl, a historic restaurant in Washington D.C. that was featured in The Green Book, a guide for black travellers that was published in the US during segregation. 4-13 APRIL,EYE FILMMUSEUM

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Classical

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

8-17 MAY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Mahler Festival

Passions in Amsterdam

he Royal Concertgebouw hosts its long-awaited Mahler Festival, the third after prior iterations held 100 and 25 years ago. There has been a special bond between Mahler and the Concertgebouw ever since Willem Mengelberg, the RCO’s young conductor, attended the première of Mahler’s Third Symphony in June 1902 and resolved henceforth to ‘defend and promote’ Mahler’s music. A fruitful working relationship followed, with Mahler visiting Amsterdam for many performances. ‘I feel like I have found a second musical homeland in Amsterdam,’ he wrote. The festival features four of the world’s best orchestras, all once conducted by Mahler himself – the Berlin Philharmonic, the Vienna Philharmonic, the New York Philharmonic and the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra – performing all symphonies, including the unfinished 10th.

| 43

round Easter, Bach’s St Matthew and St John Passions dominate Amsterdam’s concert programmes. Delicate and dramatic, the oratorios are among the greatest achievements in music. One of Amsterdam’s most popular St Matthew Passions sees Pieter Jan Leusink conducting the Bach Choir and Orchestra of the Netherlands (playing on period instruments) at the Royal Concertgebouw – there are seven performances between 7 March and 12 April. In celebration of its 50th anniversary, Collegium Vocale Gent and conductor Philippe Herreweghe go for both passions: the St John on 16 March and the St Matthew on 2 April. At the Muziekgebouw, Daniel Reuss conducts the Orchestra of the 18th Century and Cappella Amsterdam in a refreshing take on the St Matthew Passion on 4 and 5 April; many more concerts can be heard across the city.

1 & 3 MAY ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

PÄRT FESTIVAL The Muziekgebouw dedicates five days to the Estonian composer Arvo Pärt, by presenting a tantalising selection of works from early compositions through the pioneering pieces of the ’70s all the way to Pärt’s contemporary status as one of the greatest living composers. 15-19 APRIL MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

ROYAL MUSIC The RCO invites its audiences to the courts of Sun King Louis XIV and George I with a programme of courtly music by JeanPhilippe Rameau (the suite from Dardanus) and Händel (the concerto grosso in D major, the suite no. 3 in G major and the cantata Delirio amoroso).

VARIOUS DATES AND LOCATIONS

JOHN ADAMS Distinguished composer and conductor John Adams swings by the Royal Concertgebouw to conduct a pair of his own works: the Schönberg-referencing classic Harmonielehre and new work Must the Devil Have All the Good Tunes?, a piano concerto with added honky-tonk. 7 MARCH, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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Pop & Rock

44 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND DAVID WILLS

Dreaming up witty stories of everyday life and disappointing men, it’s little wonder that Baxter Dury is often compared to his dad Ian. But luckily, Baxter has the talent and vision if not to escape, then certainly to stand tall in his dad’s shadow. 3 MAY, ZONNEHUIS

The House & Garage Orchestra

ollowing successful shows in England, The House & Garage Orchestra are making their Dutch debut at the Melkweg. Their energetic set includes some of the biggest UK house and garage hits such as Artful Dodger’s ‘Moving Too Fast’, Crystal Waters’ ‘Gypsy Woman’, and ‘Show Me Love’ by Robin S. What’s more, some of the original vocalists join the orchestra on stage to give a new twist to their iconic hits supported by lively horn and string sections. 22 MAY, MELKWEG

JONATHAN BREE Singer-songwriter Jonathan Bree knows how to put on a show. Masked and wigged band members, dancers and projections perfectly complement the darkly mysterious indie sonics. Listen out for new single ‘Waiting on the Moment’, a taster for his new album coming later this year.

DESTROYER Completely unclassifiable but always captivating, almost every one of Destroyer’s songs offer moments to savour, whether it’s the blasts of saxophone woven through the outro of ‘Tinseltown Swimming in Blood’ or the rip-roaring acoustics of ‘Times Square’. 30 APRIL, PARADISO

14 MAY, BITTERZOET

GIRL RAY Girl Ray make lo-fi pop that harks back to the sounds of the ’70s, writing winsome songs about romance and youthful angst. On latest album Girl they've added R&B melodies, resulting in a more mature sound. 1 MARCH, CINETOL

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Harry Styles

It all started with The X Factor for Harry Styles, a woke master of mystery with a flair for fashion. Rising from the ashes of One Direction, Harry has forged a solo career that’s seen him top the US hit pa-

rade, break chart records and win over a legion of devoted fans, including rock goddess Stevie Nicks – she took to the stage with him to sing Fleetwood Mac’s ‘Landslide’ in LA last year. Fine Line,

his recent second album, will feature throughout Love on Tour, which promises to be a rockin’ affair. 6 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

Elbow

There’s a wealth of post punk bands currently making music that rages against the modern world, but there’s not many bands that do it quite as mercilessly as Viagra Boys. The six-strong Stockholm group’s heavy basslines and squalling blasts of reverberating guitar and saxophone perfectly counterpoint lead singer Sebastian Murphy’s deadpan drawl. It’s no surprise they’ve toured with fellow point-blank piss-takers Sleaford Mods.

Elbow are just magnificent. Singer Guy Garvey might be one of the best lyricists alive and their music is all swooning orchestrals, epic melodies and the occasional heavy riff. In other words, perfection. New album Giants of All Sizes is a real winner, too: a darker, heavier and more melancholy record than they’ve ever done, but no worse for it. Live, Garvey is a true charmer, and if you don’t leave with a warm feeling in the pit of your stomach and a smile on your face then there's nothing more anyone can do for you.

31 MARCH, PARADISO NOORD

24 MARCH, ZIGGO DOME

FOALS After playing a smaller show in Paradiso last year, Foals return to play AFAS Live to celebrate the release of two chart-topping albums in 2019. Now matured from math-rock upstarts to genuine rock royalty, expect a visceral live show in which singer Yannis Philippakis ends up somewhere in the crowd. 14 APRIL, AFAS LIVE

Viagra Boys

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

THE DEARS Dark orchestral pop perfectly describes The Dears, a Canadian band featuring husband-and-wife duo Murray Lightburn on vocals and guitar, and Natalia Yanchak on keyboards. Known for a bracing live set, here’s your chance to catch an exciting show oozing Canadian charm. 25 APRIL, PARADISO

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LGBTI

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

46 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

3x NYX

All hail the king

If you’re after a royal good time this King’s Day, then there are two parties you shouldn’t miss. Funhouse XL celebrates royalty as some 3,000 kings and queens come together for an outlandish night of partying to celebrate the King with DJ Sharon O Love on the decks at Westergasfabriek on 25 April. After a little sleep, head out for more good times at Rapido’s The King Edition at Paradiso on 26 April. DJs Saeed Ali and Tom Stephan will keep the floor pumpin’ all night long.

ne of Amsterdam’s most popular LGBT nights can be found at 3xNYX. People of all backgrounds, sexualities and identities are more than welcome to join in the shenanigans that take place over three fun-filled levels including spectacular shows. Everyone’s musical tastes are catered to, with pop, house, hip-hop, R&B and even a guilty pleasure or two thrown into the mix.

25 APRIL, WESTERGASFABRIEK 26 APRIL, PARADISO

SATURDAYS, CLUB NYX

Crowning Now in its third year, the Amsterdam Sportswear Weekend (28-31 May) is for guys who love sportswear. Join a crew of like-minded souls for four fun-filled days of activi-

BEAR PLAY It’s Amsterdam Bear Weekend. Expect all manner of bear-related events for the fuzzy guys and their admirers, including parties, workshops, the election of the new Mr Bear, and the star attraction: the Bear Ball. 19-23 MARCH VARIOUS LOCATIONS

glory

ties at some of Amsterdam’s leading venues including The Web Amsterdam, Club Church, Spijker Bar Amsterdam and PRIK. Entries are open for the Mr Sportswear

NL contest, with the next winner announced in May. Check Amsterdam Sportswear Weekend’s website for more information: amsterdamsportswearweekend.com.

PRIK KARAOKE Presented by Reno, this monthly Sunday night session is all about finding Prik’s next singing superstar. See who’ll be awarded a golden ticket, which will give them a chance to take to the podium on the Prik mainstage at Pride Amsterdam in 2020. Come and watch the fun or join in and show your talents. 19 APRIL, 3 MAY & 21 JUNE, PRIK

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Clubbing

TEXT: DAVID WILLS

DGTL

Jungle Dam

If unadulterated breaks, beats and spinetingling basslines are your thing, then Jungle Dam 2020 is for you. Join fellow ‘Junglists’ for this massive weekend of events celebrating jungle sounds on land, and on water aboard the Jungle Party Boat. This fun-loving crowd of jungle devotees knows how to party, and have become dedicated followers after just two years. Some of the acts announced include Congo Natty aka Rebel MC, Jungle Warriors, DJ Brockie + MC DET, Serial Killaz, Bladerunner dnb and MC Fearless. 13-16 MARCH, PANAMA

Every Easter, one of the city’s most prominent and environmentally sound dance music festivals unfolds at NDSM Wharf. Spread across various stages, you’ll hear the best electronic music from across the globe in an intimate setting. Acts sway between the well-known and the up-and-coming, ensuring an enthralling programme stretching from minimal house to banging electro. Catch Dutch Pieter Jansen’s ambient set and Italian Francesco Del Garda’s smooth house set featuring both old and new cuts. Plus, Margaret Dygas, local act JEANS and KI/KI, and Australian house producer Jordon Alexander aka Mall Grab. 11-12 APRIL, NDSM WHARF

Easter Weekender Thuishaven’s Easter Weekend is going to be huge with this stellar line-up of amazing acts. Techno maestro Derrick May headlines with Dutch house master Benny Rodrigues, De Sluwe Vos, Sandrien and DJ Sneak, and many others playing sets sure to keep the dance floor pumping all weekend long. 11-12 APRIL, THUISHAVEN

PLEINVREES It’s all about melodic house music at Pleinvrees, a Netherlands-wide music festival. It’s coming home to Amsterdam this March to spread the love, and includes Rodriguez Jr, Miss Melera, Super Flu, Yør Kultura and Mitch de Klein in the line-up. 30 MAY NDSM WHARF

SPRING BREAK Though a music festival, the great thing about Spring Break is that it brings together culture and nightlife. By night, you can take in amazing acts like Darkzy, Sam Divine and Skepsis. By day, you can explore the city’s historic sights and museums. Inspiring!

DUBFIRE Dubfire was part of Deep Dish, a 1990s double-act who won a Grammy and remixed Madonna, Pet Shop Boys and Tina Turner. Dubfire’s path is more techno and geared towards the underground scene. He’ll be blitzing De Marktkantine all night long with driving tunes, clanging bells and dizzy synths.

5-7 APRIL VARIOUS LOCATIONS

18 APRIL, DE MARKTKANTINE

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48 | TEXT: MERRITT GURLEY

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

King’s Day for Kids

n celebration of the king’s birthday, on 27 April all of Amsterdam erupts in orange during a day-long party that has activities aplenty for all ages. In Vondelpark, you’ll find kids selling their second-hand toys, snacks and drinks at Kindermarkt Vondelpark. Somewhere between a fair and a bazaar, this pop-up street market is a colourful tangle of dances, musical performances and lots of inventive Dutch games like smash-the-tomato and hang-fromthe-jeans. To the north, the Vrijhaven Festival at NDSM Wharf is a great destination for families, with live music, food, a flea market, face-painting, games, rides, karaoke and theatre. Over in Oost, the Bredeweg Festival is another kid-friendly festival where you can expect entertaining performances, rides, crafts workshops and more. 27 APRIL, IAMSTERDAM.COM/KINGSDAY

CINEMINI The Eye Filmmuseum hosts a special cinematic experience for kids aged 2-6 years. After an age-appropriate film screening, the group is invited to play together, experimenting with light and shadow in small tents. Cinemini is regularly sold out, so best to buy tickets online in advance.

KID’S COOKING CLASS At Hiske Sterk’s Kinderkookschool, kids will prepare – and taste – some of the more challenging Dutch classics, including dishes that star sauerkraut, smoked fish and cheese. Parents are welcome to join. Don’t miss the Children’s Food Festival taking place 30 April to 2 May.

SUNDAY MORNINGS EYE FILMMUSEUM

CLASSES ON VARIOUS DATES KAS KEERWEER

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Amsterdam has plenty of events this spring that will keep your little bundles of energy on the move. Go disco swimming at De Mirandabad (7-9 pm, every last Friday of the month with a St Patty’s special on 27 March) where a DJ spins tracks, giving an extra thrill to the water slides. During the HISWA Amsterdam Boat Show, the

Super Sports

Egg-cellent Easter

Festivities range from egg hunts and brunch to spring markets and church services. Amsterdam Mamas’ Great Big Easter Egg Hunt for kids aged 1-12 years is usually hosted each year at the Beatrixpark Playground. Pure Markt will be at Amstelpark with food stalls and live entertainment. ARTIS Royal Zoo is planning to dish up a colourful Easter breakfast. Petting zoos usually host fun events as well, so you have the perfect egg-cuse to egg-splore more of Amsterdam this Easter. 11-13 APRIL, IAMSTERDAM.COM/EASTER

HISWA Sport Xperience (11-15 March, RAI) invites kids aged 6-16 years to participate in a giant indoor sporting event that includes sailing, stand-up paddling, surfing and more. Let your little ones unleash their inner monkeys at Fun Forest tree-top adventure course, which opens on 1 March in Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). For an up-to-date agenda of kid-friendly events, check kidsproof.nl/amsterdam.

Centre Stage

Introduce your kids to the magic of theatre at one of the many lively performances debuting in Amsterdam this spring. At the Dutch National Opera & Ballet, Giselle (1, 3, 5 & 8 March) tells the story of a duke who falls in love with a peasant girl through the mesmerising medium of ballet. Watch masterful puppetry at play, courtesy of the Dutch Marionette Theatre, during their rendition of The Barber of Seville (22 March). At the Royal Concertgebouw, the Be Bach (4 April) interactive musical shows young audiences the different facets of the great composer’s life and times.

SOUNDLAB In small, mixed groups of adults and children aged 7-12 years, you will experiment with instruments such as the MODi, Dato DUO, Toonpad or Formonium and come up with a new piece of music to present at the end of the session. No previous experience is required.

SABI SURINAME The Sabi Suriname exhibition at Tropenmuseum teaches kids about Suriname, its relationship with the Netherlands and how it is connected to the world. Sail inland on a talking boat and play a game about what you encounter along the way. Tours must be booked online.

SUNDAYS MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

SATURDAYS & SUNDAYS TROPENMUSEUM

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TOP 5 ➋

I amsterdam Store Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side

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➍ ➊ KRNWTR BOTTLE The designers of these reusable bottles, sustainable wooden coolers and organic syrups have been doing their part to save the planet. KRNWTR created a solution for the 50,000 plastic water bottles thrown away each day in the Netherlands alone. Now you can serve tap water in style. €14.95

➎ IAM 9 # 2020 CITYGUIDE SF VH SF MB.indd 50

➋ TONY’S CHOCOLONELY EASTER EGGS The famous Tony’s Chocolonely chocolate bars, with their mission to create 100% slave-free chocolate, is not just one of the most ethical chocolate producers – it’s also one of the most creative. Now as Tony’s Chocolonely Easter eggs! €3.95

➌ LOQI BAG Loqi bags are beautiful, foldable and reusable bags. This shopper is printed with the famous painting ‘Starry Night’ by Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh. €12.95 ➍ TULIP SOAP Inspired by the tulips of painter Jakob Marrel (1613-1681). Soap with tulip fragance. Set of three €8.50 ➎ PAPER VASE TULIP Designed in Amsterdam, handmade by the Tiny Miracles communities in Mumbai. Turn bottles into vases with the Paper Vase Covers. Small €12.50, Large €19.00

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City Guide

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

52 58 59 60 61 62 63

Zuid Noord Noord/Zuidlijn Oost Dam Life West Interview

Museumplein

Of course, Museumplein takes its name for a reason: home to the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Moco Museum, the square is the jewel in Amsterdam’s cultural crown. But even if you’re not planning to take in the art, it’s worth stopping by the House of Bols for its Cocktail & Genever Experience, or booking to catch a classical concert at the Royal Concertgebouw. Plus, the grassy expanse in the middle of Museumplein is the perfect spot to catch some spring sunshine.

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Zuid

52 | text: TEXT Karin AND Engelbrecht PHOTOS: LILY HEATON

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Art lovers, don’t miss Carlos Amorales – The Factory showcase at the Stedelijk Museum (until 17 May).

Gold Standard Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan flair.

ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way – by bike or on foot – through the Rijksmuseumtunnel. If this feels reminiscent of your entry via Central Station, you’ve been paying attention – both landmarks were created by Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers. The walkway of this thoroughfare, adored by locals and tourists alike, is often a stage for street performers whose tunes are boosted by natural acoustics. As is the ever-present sound of bells that ricochets off vaulted ceilings as cyclists whizz by. With so much going on, don’t forget to look up and around, admiring the brick, tile and sculpted details, circa 1885. Continue onto the grassy field to find a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized

artworks and curious visitors. Across the street lies a stately, Neoclassical building, home to the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, where classical performances have taken place since 1881. At a loose end on a Wednesday? Catch a free lunchtime concert.

Shop till you drop

Glitz and glamour continue to unfold with dazzling jewels at the Diamond Museum Amsterdam, extravagant cocktails at the oh-so-swanky Conservatorium Hotel, and the pinnacle of opulence: P.C. Hooftstraat. The famed shopping street – frequented by trendsetters, fashionistas, design lovers and celebrities – caters to affluent clientele who find delight in brands like Louis Vuitton, Hermés, Dior, Chanel and the whole luxurious lot. Take one look at the green canopies and elegant streets of stately mansions, and it’s evident

INSIDER TIP

‘Spring has such an excitable air to it! The terraces start to bustle again, and it’s the perfect time to enjoy new beginnings. I love to take my dogs to Amsterdamse Bos, walk through the woods and explore nature in bloom.’ Rhylie Luanweir (37), works in marketing and communications

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Zuid

54 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

A walk in the park

Cherry blossoms

Lucky springtime visitors can catch a pastel petal explosion when the cherry blossom trees bloom in the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). Enjoy an alfresco picnic or a walk in the woods during this magical time from late March to early April. AMSTELVEEN AMSTERDAMSEBOS.NL

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Once a private garden for the wealthy, whose opulent estates line the perimeter, Vondelpark is the city’s largest green space. Everyone gathers here on sunny days from the moment the first purple crocuses appear in springtime.

Encompassing 47 hectares, with Museumplein to the north and Oud-Zuid to the southeast, swarms of cyclists, roller skaters and sometimes even equestrians ride though. Escape to a quiet corner of the rose garden, catch an outdoor concert or lay in the grass for excellent people-watching along one of the many promenades. Stop for a koffiepauze (coffee break), broodje (sandwich) or borrelhapjes (snacks with drinks) at one of four cafés scattered throughout. On the north side, Vondelpark/3 Kitchen & Bar is housed in an elegant mansion with a terrace and lake view, while De Vondeltuin (near the southern entrance) serves beer, tapas and sometimes even BBQ, creating a laidback garden vibe. Families will have a ball at Groot Melkhuis, featuring cafeteria-style service and a large playground for kids of all ages.

Tap Zuid Foodies, rejoice – this travelling Sunday market rotates locations throughout the city, complete with dozens of vendors offering savoury bites, sweet tasty treats and even fresh produce. Sip bubbles or beers, browse handmade goods and accessories, and listen to live music at this family-friendly pop-up market.

With ten beers on tap and another 15 in rotation, there’s plenty for craft beer fans to sip and sample at this bar in the Rivierenbuurt, including 32 varieties of Amsterdam-based brews. Play games or take a break from downing rounds to sober up with a (veggie) burger, flammkuchen or other tasty bites.

A M STE LPAR K & AM STE R DAM S E BOS PUREMARKT.NL

MAASSTRAAT 70 TAPZUID.AMSTERDAM

Pure Markt

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that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. So it’s no surprise that this neighbourhood is famous for its shopping opportunities. Stylish, high-end boutiques with everything from apparel to beauty salons, art, design, wine and more can be found along the chic Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat. Don’t fret, there’s something for everyone: even those with a less-than-generous budget will enjoy window-shopping and admiring the real estate while exploring this posh, tree-lined community.

Verse

Ethically sourced and honestly crafted brands are at the core of this conscious concept shop along De Pijp’s chic Gerard Doustraat (plus another location in the Negen Straatjes). Shop their curated collection of sustainable and non-toxic fashion, footwear, accessories and home goods for him and her. GER ARD DOUSTR A AT 84 VERSEGOODSTORE.COM

Coffee & Coconuts

Restaurant Freud

Escape to the tropics at this Bali-inspired café and coffee roastery in De Pijp. Housed inside a revamped Art Deco theatre, Coffee & Coconuts offers multi-level seating with couches to lounge on, plus a full bar downstairs. Chow down on healthy dishes like granola, smoothies, sandwiches and, of course, plenty of fresh coconuts. CEINTUURBAAN 282-284, COFFEEANDCOCONUTS.COM

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Zuid

56 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

Turn left from Museumplein and cross a small bridge to enter De Pijp, a tightly wound neighbourhood that’s home to spirited, creative residents. The streets here have an intense concentration of artistic and cultural flavours, and plenty of unique concept shops. Stretching across the heart of De Pijp, the bustling Albert Cuyp Market is the largest in the city. Wander through to pick up fresh tulips, assorted nibbles and souvenirs. Don’t forget to try fresh stroopwafels (Dutch caramel waffle cookies) made by hand and served warm. On sunny days, do as the locals do and take a picnic to nearby Sarphatipark.

Venture on

The Beethovenstraat leads to more shops, affluent residences and the tranquil Beatrixpark. Further south lies Zuidas, Amsterdam’s busy financial district, where modern,

Latin Quarter

INSIDER TIP gleaming skyscrapers are home to international corporations. As the city’s population quickly multiplies, Zuidas is under endless renovation to include more shops, restaurants, hotels and transportation hubs to connect this extended residential area to the city’s old centre. For a proper woodland experience, venture out to the grassy meadows of Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). This recreational area offers a true escape from the city along with all types of outdoor fun, including a tree-top obstacle course and a petting zoo.

‘There’s a lot to enjoy in Zuid. The Roast Room is a cosy hideaway near the RAI: there’s a brasserie downstairs with a big terrace, and upstairs is fine dining with a great view. It’s a good spot for dinner or drinks because they have a live DJ most evenings.’ Dallas Gibson (31), behavioural insight strategist

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Yerba 

RUYSDAELSTRAAT 48 YERBABAR.COM

Dappermarkt

Chef Walter Marskamp brings veggies into the spotlight at this flavourful ‘plant-forward’ restaurant catering to vegans and vegetarians. No worries, omnivores – paired side dishes of responsibly raised meat or fish are also an option. With ingredients from local suppliers, their new spring menu features delectable dishes like creamy Jerusalem artichoke soup, colourful beetroot gnocchi, and pumpkin seed ice cream with persimmon.

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INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

On the roof of the main hall of the Royal Concertgebouw is a lyre, the instrument of Apollo, the symbol of music. Made of red copper and gilded with gold leaf, the lyre is 3.25 metres tall.

Leidseplein 26 ITA.NL

A view of the world in the heart of the city Yes, we are surtiteld

19 & 26 MAR Falling Man Julien Gosselin / ITA–ensemble 09 APR 07 & 14 MAY Children of Nora Robert Icke / ITA–ensemble 14 MAY Who killed my father Ivo van Hove / ITA–ensemble

Cavateria: Holy Spanish Food

28 MAY Medea Simon Stone / ITA–ensemble

As the name suggests, cava and sangria flow in abundance at this new addition to Oud-Zuid. Serving sinfully delicious tapas with a modern twist, such as piping hot garlic shrimp, spicy patatas bravas and crispy chorizo croquettes.

MAR — MAY 20

CORNELIS KRUSEMANSTRAAT 15 CAVATARIA.NL

Language no problem 11 — 13 MAR Revisor Crystal Pite & Jonathon Young / Kidd Pivot 30 & 31 MAR Icoon Lucinda Childs / Introdans

Café Wildschut

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, this long-standing, grand café on the Roelof Hartplein features a charming 1920s interior. Large windows open up to a roomy, rounded terrace – the perfect spot to enjoy a Dutch crispy kroket and cocktail after exploring Museumplein nearby.

12 MAY Moving in Concert Mette Ingvartsen

ROELOF HARTPLEIN 1-3 CAFEWILDSCHUT.NL

Let’s talk

12 & 26 MAR 09 & 23 APR 07 MAY WorldTalks urban talk show ITA / Pakhuis de Zwijger 11 MAY Sign of the Times with Édouard Louis

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Noord

Imagine Film Festival is full of original, idiosyncratic horror, science fiction and fantasy films. 10-20 APRIL, EYE FILMMUSEUM

58 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Amsterdam Noord offers diverse entertainment and bohemian flair, just steps from the water’s edge.

Other Side

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as its many new developments. Gone are the days of grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art, cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and explore. For the fastest route, leave the Buiksloterweg ferry and step into a wide, riverside promenade leading visitors to a variety of amusements. The sleek, modern Eye Filmmuseum features exhibitions and movies with a restaurant and waterfront terrace. Take in a bird’s-eye view from the top of the A’DAM Tower, where thrillseekers dare to swing from the edge of the rooftop – For more the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 information on metres up. Alternatively, take the ferry over to Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood NDSM Wharf, home to an old shipping dockyard Guide on our website: turned vibrant cultural centre with assorted eatiamsterdam.com/ eries and a full agenda of unorthodox activities. neighbourhoods

Klaproos Pizza

‘When spring takes over, Noorderlicht has a great sunny terrace! Plus, on cooler days, you can cosy up by the fire inside.’ Linda Roos (30), copywriter

PAPAVERWEG 15A KLAPROOSAMSTERDAM.NL

INSIDER TIP

This spacious warehouse turned pizzeria has a large terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining when the spring sunshine appears. Drop by for a slice of brick-oven pizza and sip a selection of beer and wine. Then explore the ample indoor space that’s also home to creative exhibitions and events. Bonus: they’re now open six days a week.

Eye Filmmuseum

A must-see for cinephiles, this all-in-one cinema, museum and restaurant is majestically perched along the water. Its impressive, modern architecture is just as stunning as the view of the River IJ. Spring’s special screenings include: Black Light (6 March-15 April), which shines the spotlight on black identity, and Amsterdam Spanish Film Festival (28 May-2 June). IJPROMENADE 1 EYEFILM.NL

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Noord/Zuidlijn

METRO TOUR |59

The Train Event

Summer 2018 welcomed the Noord/Zuidlijn, aka Metro 52, which was in train-sition since 2003. Each stop features unique artwork, while the 15-minute route connects the residential Noord with the business district in Zuid.  Noord: This primarily residential

area is one of the city’s up-and-coming neighbourhoods. From here, it’s a quick seven-minute ride to Central Station.

 Noorderpark:

Visit the nearby green park of its namesake or walk ten minutes to Van der Pekstraat with its bustling market and shops.

 Central Station:

Welcome to the city centre! Hop out to explore Haarlemmerstraat, the Red Light District and the historic Jordaan.

 Rokin: Exit near Dam Square,

window-shop along Kalverstraat, peek into the American Book Center, historically hidden Begijnhof or check out the Amsterdam Museum.

 Vijzelgracht: Exit

 Europaplein:

A residential and business area home to RAI Convention Centre and the new, gigantic nhow hotel (the largest in the Benelux!).

 De Pijp: The heart of Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, home to the famous Albert Cuyp Market, shops along Ferdinand Bolstraat and nearby Museumplein.

 Zuid: Step into Am-

sterdam’s financial district at the World Trade Centre, or wander the affluent Oud-Zuid neighbourhood and adjacent Beatrixpark.

here to explore the canal belt, FOAM Photography Museum, Amsterdam City Archives and Spiegelkwartier antique district.

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Oost

A new addition to the Linnaeusstraat shopping area, Roootin offers Middle Eastern-inspired brunch and lunch fare. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 16, ROOOTIN.COM

60 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Full of expansive green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while still retaining its unique charm.

Melting Pot

enture over the River Amstel to Oost (East), where a diverse population is evident in both its residents and its architectural styles. Find grand 19th-century designs in Oud-Oost (Old East) and modern high-rise flats along the Eastern Docklands. Home to a melange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside plenty of trendy additions. The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where shoppers and vendors have haggled over fruits, flowers and fabric for the last century. Near the leafy Oosterpark, the monumental Tropenmuseum highlights stories of shared human experiences, displaying anthropological treasures from cultures around the globe. Hungry explorers will find everything from beers to bao buns and (coffee) beans at spots like Louie Louie, Happyhappyjoyjoy and Coffee Bru. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terrace at Brouwerij ’t IJ, the local brewery famously housed in a windmill. Further east, Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ’t Nieuwe Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room.

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

INSIDER TIP

Youseum

ARTIS Amsterdam Royal Zoo Founded in 1838, this historic city park is home to various species of animals, plants and trees. Embrace the beauty of nature with highlights including a planetarium, aquarium, tropical butterfly pavilion and Micropia, the world’s only microbe museum. New this spring, An Ode to Insects displays fascinating, vivid, macro images by ARTIS’ very own photographer Ronald van Weeren. PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL

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This you-nique experience encourages artistic interaction. Visitors enter a wacky world of 15 one-of-a-kind designed rooms and 25 experiential elements. Quirky selfies aside, Youseum encourages deeper dialogue about important topics like sustainability, feminism and how picture-perfect images impact us beyond the screen. There’s only one way to find out.... WEESPERZIJDE 150 YOUSEUM.NL

‘Coming from New York City, I love Amsterdam’s focus on becoming a greener city. Oost is the neighbourhood that inspires me most, including Mediamatic’s Aquaponics Greenhouse where I developed Botanikurs 101 and teach plant workshops.’ Monai McCullough (25), founder and owner of PLANTMOM

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Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life LAUREN COMITEAU |

Pedal Power Leave the fancy bike behind and go Dutch on a no-frills cycle that is anything but poor man’s transport.

athered around a back table in the Irish Pub on Heinekenplein watching the American football playoffs, my temporary besties – a group of tourists who were apparently the only other American football fans in the city besides me – had more pressing things on their minds than the Superbowl. ‘Does everyone in Amsterdam really own a bicycle?’ one asked me. Not only does seemingly everyone between the ages of 2 and 82 own a bicycle, but in Amsterdam, there are actually more bicycles than people: an estimated 881,000 bikes to 865,000 inhabitants. And bikes are used for so much more than just getting from A to B. The Dutch version of an SUV can double as a moving van (I know because I once transported an entire dining room ensemble in my bakfiets, or cargo bike), an office, a dog

walker (be on the lookout for canines running leashed beside their cycling carers), a make-shift crib for sleeping babies, and even a library for the bookworm passenger. Whether a bike has two wheels or three, is electric or good old-fashioned pedal-powered, there’s no easier, faster, cheaper, greener or more enjoyable way to move around. The prime minister does it. Even the royal couple used a bakfiets to cart around their three little princesses before they grew into regular Dutch kids and began cycling solo to school. The plainer the bike, the better. There are over 500 kilometres of dedicated cycle paths in the city, with Amsterdammers collectively cycling some 2 million kilometres every day. There are 10,000 bicycle parking spots around Central Station alone. Amsterdammers have made cycling an art form, from using their steeds to

disrupt German convoys during World War Two to today’s toddlers scooting around on loopfiets, peddle-less devices where they learn the balance necessary to secure their two-wheeled future. Even rain is no deterrent, although it apparently only rains 9% of the time. But the Dutch have a saying for the other 91% of the time: je bent niet van suiker gemaakt (you’re not made of sugar). Non-literal translation: you won’t melt. And although Amsterdammers have a reputation for being impatient to the point of rude when cycling, it’s something the city’s Bicycle Mayor (yes, we have one!), Katelijne Boerma, is working on. She’s promoting ‘bike decency’, or fietsfatsoen. ‘The [now-deceased] former mayor Eberhard van der Laan’s parting words to Amserdammers were to be kind to each other,’ she says. ‘I would add: also on the bicycle, please.’

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West

Extraordinary Mexican gluten-free beer, light and fresh at Brouwerij Troost. PAZZANISTRAAT 25-27 / BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 205 BROUWERIJTROOST.NL

62 | REBORN

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Hipster Heaven

s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the Canal Ring. Around 15 years ago, the city renovated Westergasfabriek, an old gas factory, into a cultural hotspot for festivals, movies and music with plenty of bites and booze. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shops and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants. Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel to each other, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the many bars, restaurants and boutiques in the vibrant Oud-West (Old West). A diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned cultural centre. The western expansion continues into Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes. Areas that were once farmland now host hipster cafés and concept shops along the Jan Evertsenstraat and Mercatorplein. Don’t miss the Amsterdam School-style architecture, with thick, sculptural brick and notes of an Art Deco aesthetic. Explore the political context of this 20th-century architecture at Museum Het Schip. INSIDER TIP

Soil

Indianaweg

New to the neighbourhood, this vintage boutique, curated by two sisters, is home to a colourful mix of boho-chic dresses, silky kimonos, accessories, jewellery and organic home goods. Pop in to browse the collection or shop online to discover a treasure trove of unique items. (They also have a shop in De Pijp.)

This plant-based café aims for sustainability from the ground up: vegan-friendly meals made from mostly local and seasonal ingredients. Dishes rotate with each season while offering three main staples: colourful, hearty salads; flavourful, warm bowls; and diverse veggie burgers, including the Beyond Meat burger. BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 141 OURSOIL.CO

KINKERSTRAAT 104 INDIANAWEG10.COM

‘Bos en Lommer is totally underrated, and so is Podium Mozaïek. A venue with cultural events focused on Mediterranean countries: dance, theatre, concerts or festivals take place there all year long. And at the weekend, their Turkish breakfast is to die for!’ Mathilde Grenod (26), producer

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Interview TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU

‘My favourite view of the city is from the ferry to the skyline in all directions. If you look at Amsterdam from the water, it’s a grand perspective.’

Amsterdam’s Bicycle Mayor Katelijne Boerma wants to save the world one bicycle at a time.

‘The bicycle can save the world’

t’s exactly the sentiment you’d expect from the city’s Bicycle Mayor. ‘It’s a simple solution for complex problems: gridlock, air pollution, obesity and the lack of social contact,’ she enthuses. ‘But it’s also fun. We have a saying in Dutch: de reis is mooier dan de uitkomst (the journey is better than the destination). So please, enjoy the ride.’ And what a ride it’s been for this Amsterdam native and mother of three. A sports management lecturer and programme manager by day, Boerma was elected the city’s second Bicycle Mayor in 2017, two years after Amsterdam became the first city in the world to boast such an office. Today, there are 100 Bicycle Mayors in cities worldwide – Rome, Mumbai and Kampala included – in what Boerma calls ‘a growing movement’. Here at home, Boerma is working with her tenyear-old Junior Bicycle Mayor Armin Taheri to improve cycling for children and to promote ‘bike decency’. For Boerma, who commutes 30 kilometres every day, the bicycle is more than just transport; it’s a way of life. ‘I only have 168 hours in a week, and the bicycle is the way I fit everything in.’ It also represents the freedom she says is symbolic of Amsterdam. ‘The first thing we teach refugees is how to cycle. Then they’re independent,’ she says. ‘It’s as easy as riding a bike.’ What screams ‘Amsterdam’ to you the most? The street art of Frankey. He makes me laugh with his unique perspective, like the Rapunzel Barbie leaning from a window. You can tell he loves the city. I assume his art is only partly legal,

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but we respect and tolerate it. The typical Dutch grey area! Favourite place for a coffee? Espressofabriek in the Westerpark, during my commute to work. It’s my zen moment. I’ve dropped off the kids and survived the morning rush. I treat myself to ten minutes of peace. Favourite place for quiet? Het Twiske in the north. There are great cycle paths past windmills and water. I’m sentimental: I was brought up there, and now I can do with my kids what I used to do. Favourite cultural spot? The Eye Filmmuseum. It’s an amazing building with a very cosmopolitan vibe. My husband and I see movies there – it’s practically in our back garden! Favourite neighbourhood? The north because it’s all about innovation. There are new neighbourhoods and things can develop with fewer regulations and more freedom. It’s fun being part of it. Favourite way to get around? Bike, bike, bike! There’s no other way. My favourite bike is a two-wheeled working cycle made for people who need to carry things. It’s my Dutch SUV. I love to carry three kids on my bike – practical and lots of laughs. Favourite bike ride? To work, which takes me from the north to the centre, through the west and new-west. They’re completely different neighbourhoods with their own characters and scenery. I can take 20 different routes, and I vary them from morning to evening.

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Hidden secret in the park... A latte? A poké bowl? One of our locally brewed beers? We serve it all!

Take tram 14 or 19, get off at Alexanderplein and continue on foot to café ‘De Tropen’ with its huge sunny terrace overlooking the Oosterpark.

Come and enjoy this lovely green relaxed (and secret) part of Amsterdam... www.amsterdamdetropen.nl

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Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area

66 70 71 73 75 77 78

Flowers Castles & Gardens New Land Old Holland Beaches Haarlem Further Afield

Keukenhof

No trip to the Netherlands in spring would be complete without visiting the Keukenhof. A celebration of the country’s world-famous flower history and open for just eight weeks each year (in accordance with the tulip’s national flowering season), it boasts a staggering seven million blooms planted across a 32-hectare park. With several indoor pavilions, Keukenhof also hosts flower shows where more than 600 growers present their most beautiful blooms, and leading florists create truly unique displays. The Keukenhof’s theme in 2020 is ‘A World of Colours’. 21 MARCH-10 MAY, KEUKENHOF.NL

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Flowers TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

A World of Colours

Discover the heart of the Netherlands’ booming and blooming flower industry, and the country’s most colourful landscapes, just a short trip from Amsterdam.

carpet of geometric colour blocks that spread out across the Dutch landscape from mid-March through to August, the Netherlands’ flower fields are an unforgettable sight. For a colourful glimpse into contemporary Dutch flower power, head to the so-called ‘flower strip’ – known in Dutch as the Bollenstreek – just an hour from Amsterdam. With the Netherlands’ famous bulb fields in full bloom, you’ll be surrounded by a rainbow of flowers: purple hyacinths, pink crocuses, bright yellow daffodils and, of course, tulips. One word of warning: don’t walk into the flower fields themselves – this is strictly forbidden.

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2 CLASS

18 12-20 with until 31- t required Valid ou ery trip in and Check rrier on ev each ca

AYM 1STD ERDA N

IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Helicopter Tours Flevoland

There’s another way to truly appreciate the scale and magnificence of Flevoland’s flower fields: from the air. Take to the skies in a helicopter and be impressed by the scale of the region’s flower-growing activities. Two companies offer tours: Tulpenvliegroute departs and lands next to a tulip field in Creil, while Helicentre’s flights depart from Lelystad Airport, taking a longer route around the Noordoostpolder region. STEPNOP.NL/HELICOPTER-TOUR-ABOVE-THE-TULIPS HELICENTRE.EU

Flower parade One of the more spectacular sights in the flower strip is the annual flower parade (bloemencorso), which takes place this year on 25 April. The route starts in Noordwijk in the morning and ends in Haarlem in the evening. BLOEMENCORSO-BOLLENSTREEK.NL

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Walking across the fields can crush or damage the flowers. If a tulip plant is trampled, it will not produce a bulb large enough to be sold, so it’s important to be respectful and stay out of the fields.

Flowers 68 | HOLLAND IN BLOOM

Royal FloraHolland

Royal FloraHolland in Aalsmeer is the world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth). The unusual sales method used gave rise to the phrase ‘Dutch auction’. Dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a ‘clock’ that counts from 100 down to one; thus, the price is lowered – rather than raised – until a buyer is found. The best action is before 9 am (it opens at 7 am) so you’ll have to get up early to see it, but flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine, and with an (optional) knowledgeable multilingual guide, you can witness the auction first-hand. Royal FloraHolland is open Monday to Friday only, and closed on public holidays.

In the 17th century, these intricate, ceramic tulip vases were made in Delft, and decorated in either Delft blue or Chinese patterns (layered tulip vase available from &Klevering for €275). VARIOUS LOCATIONS KLEVERING.COM

ROYALFLORAHOLLAND.COM

Keukenhof Castle

It may be perpetually outshone by its showy floral neighbour, but this castle (located straight across from the world-famous Keukenhof gardens) boasts an impressive history with Golden Age roots. Inside, you’ll find portraits, artefacts and period furniture; in the 230-hectare wooded estate, leading artists’ sculptures are on display. KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

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Find out more about day trips to the ﬂower ﬁelds on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Tulip mania reached its pinnacle during the 17th century when some bulbs were selling for a small fortune. Luckily, now you can buy them for a few euros.

Tulip Route Flevoland One of the best ways to explore Flevoland’s remarkable flower fields is by walking, cycling or driving along one of the routes that form the Tulip Route Flevoland. Around Dronten, Lelystad and Zeewolde, you’ll discover vast vistas filled with blooming flowers, charming farms and traditional Dutch landscapes. Along the way, take part in a range of activities – including painting workshops, farm tours and even crafting a bouquet in a flowerpicking garden.

10 APRIL-5 MAY, TULPENROUTEFLEVOLAND.NL

Noordoostpolder Tulip Festival

Explore the flower strip by bicycle

From 11 April to 5 May, tens of thousands of visitors will head to Noordoostpolder for the Tulip Festival, which offers more than 2,000 varieties of the iconic flower in special gardens and shows, as well carriage rides, photography workshops and children’s attractions to enjoy.

From Leiden to Haarlem, stripes of colour criss-cross the landscape. After the crocuses, it’s the turn of the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths – an impressive display that continues into May and beyond. The bulb fields truly deserve a closer look. Renting a bike is the perfect way to explore the flower strip. You have four marked routes to choose – ranging from 5 km to 25 km – all of which are well sign-posted, flat and very safe.

TULPENFESTIVAL.NL

BOLLENSTREEK.NL

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Castles & Gardens 70 | HERITAGE NATURE

Culture Meets Horticulture

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Whether you’re heading to see the cherry blossoms or climbing up a castle keep, the Amsterdam area’s Castles & Gardens region is guaranteed to entertain.

Singer Laren Museum Originally a villa built by American painter William Henry Singer called De Wilde Zwanen (The Wild Swans), the building was transformed into the Singer Laren Museum and concert hall in 1956. Preserving the work of the Laren School of Art and Henry Singer’s art collection, it includes paintings by Bart van der Leck, Jan Sluijters, Leo Gestel, Gustave De Smet and Herman Kruyder. The museum also has a cafe and an ever-changing line-up of exhibitions.

SINGERLAREN.NL

Cherry blossoms: catch ’em while you can

Every April, the 400 cherry trees in Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) spring to life, and seeing the beautiful pink blossoms fluttering in the wind is truly a sight to behold. This oval-shaped, landscaped park puts on its colourful show each year, attracting thousands of visitors. Take a picnic and a blanket and feast by the cherry trees with family or friends. It’s the perfect way to celebrate the arrival of spring.

Muiderslot Castle

The Amsterdam area is full of sleepy little villages where you can find the remains of castles dating back to medieval times. Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting. MUIDERSLOT.NL

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In Lelystad, be sure to see Antony Gormley’s ‘Exposure’, a 26-metre steel figure crouched on the dam that gazes out over Lake Markermeer.

New Land TAMING THE OCEAN

For centuries, the Dutch have reclaimed large areas of land from the sea. The result? The ‘new land’ that makes up the province of Flevoland.

New Land National Park

As the world’s largest man-made national park, New Land National Park is a must-see if you want to admire some of the Netherlands’ most beautiful scenery. Consisting of several lakes – including the Oostvaardersplassen, the Lepelaarplassen and the Markermeer – the park offers a variety of different natural habitats. As well as spectacular landscapes, visitors can also spot rare birds and other wildlife – including deer, cattle, foxes, hares and Konik ponies – while exploring the park. NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL

Architectural walking tour

Almere, a relatively new city, doesn’t boast charming old streets or medieval canals. But the city is crammed with modern architectural highlights designed by world-famous contemporary architects. In addition to well-known Dutch architects, you can spot brilliant buildings designed by firms from Tokyo, London, Bordeaux, Paris and Zurich. The most striking sights lie along a route that takes you directly through the city centre. VISITALMERE.COM

Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet

Batavia Stad is a lakeside fashion outlet mall in the city of Lelystad that offers more than 250 fashion brands, cafés and restaurants. Bargain hunters flock here from around the country to seek out big brands and discounted goods. Look for 30-70% discount deals on fashionable items from prestigious Dutch and international designers. Visitors from outside the EU can benefit from even more savings by shopping tax-free. BATAVIASTAD.NL

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TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€19.50

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€28.00

€36.50

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Old Holland TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Zandaam’s eyecatching Inntel Hotel is built to look like old Dutch fishermen’s houses stacked on top of each other.

Windmills on the Waterside Step back in time to the Dutch Golden Age and explore contemporary culture in Old Holland, a place merging old and new in fascinating ways.

Dijks

From rotisserie chicken to a classic steak tartare, Dijks offers a menu full of Dutch and French favourites and promises food so good you won’t be able to resist licking your plate clean (though we didn’t say you could). Only a short trip from Amsterdam city centre, this waterside restaurant in the aptly named Watergang is a luxurious place to while away an afternoon or evening in the company of good friends and (perhaps) even better food.

RESTAURANTDIJKS.NL

Het Twiske

A large recreational area just outside Amsterdam, head to Het Twiske to rent canoes, rowing boats, pedal boats and sailing boats, or just to explore its abundant nature. You can cycle to the area from Amsterdam easily, with signs helping you along the way. As well as water sports, there are large playgrounds and a swimming area, plus plenty of open green space to picnic, enjoy the sun or spend time with friends and family away from the hustle and bustle of the city. TWISKE-WATERLAND.NL

Walking in the Zaan region

Curious to learn the stories behind the famous Golden Age? Wander through the Zaan region and explore the Netherlands’ industrial past as you spot traditional houses, windmills, warehouses and workshops. Just north of Amsterdam, the industrial heritage stretches along the banks of the River Zaan. Stroll around the grounds of the Hembrug site, follow walking trails or head to see the perfectly preserved windmills of Zaanse Schans. ZAANSTREEK.NL

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CULTURAL, GREEN & INTERNATIONAL

WWW.VISITAMSTELVEEN.NL

Visit the garden of Amsterdam Discover the unexpected at Singer Laren! Come and enjoy all we have to offer at our boutique museum, from the Piet Oudolf sculpture garden to a delicious lunch out on the terrace or in the stylish villa. More information: singerlaren.nl/ gardenviptour

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Beaches

IJmuiden’s three-kilometre-long pier is one of the best places in the Netherlands to spot seabirds, from Purple Sandpipers to Rock Pipits and Turnstones.

LET’S GET SANDY

Find out more about day trips to the beach on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Immerse yourself in nature

Directly south of Zandvoort, wander through the Waterleiding dunes – perhaps you’ll spot one of the many deer or foxes, or you might stumble across a World War Two bunker. To the north of Zandvoort, you’ll find the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, where you can take a stroll or a leisurely bike ride. Watch out for the Konik horses and Highland cattle – they roam freely throughout the park.

VISITZANDVOORT.COM

Spring, Sand & Sea To catch some spring sunshine on the coast, head to the Dutch seaside. Only a 30-minute journey from Amsterdam by train, there’s plenty of things to do for thrill- and chill-seekers alike.

Beach life in Zandvoort

In Zandvoort, rent a surfboard and ride the waves or try your skills at stand-up paddleboarding. With over 35 beach pavilions, the options are endless for a hot chocolate, cold beer, tasty snacks or a proper meal. And don’t forget to watch the sun set over the sea – it doesn’t get more romantic than that. VISITZANDVOORT.COM

Dutch Grand Prix

Formula 1 returns to the Netherlands on 3 May after an absence of 35 years. Circuit Zandvoort will be the venue of the F1 Dutch Grand Prix, which will give the home fans the chance to cheer on their compatriot Max Verstappen. As well as the race itself, there are plenty of activities planned to take place around the area. Expect lots of drama on the race track and a big Dutch party off it. 3 MAY, DUTCHGP.COM

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Discover Gooi & Vecht

The Castles and Gardens region Less than 30 minutes from Amsterdam visitgooivecht.com

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Haarlem AMSTERDAM’S NEAREST NEIGHBOUR

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Canals, Culture & Cuisine Amsterdam’s quieter neighbour, Haarlem has just as much charm. In spring, the city comes to life as its cafés and restaurants fill up and cultural opportunities abound.

Dinosaur-tastic

The oldest museum in the country, the Teylers Museum invites visitors to delve into the wonderful world of dinosaurs. From dinos with scales to dinos with feathers, the Dinomakers exhibition promises to take those familiar images of prehistoric times and turn them upside down, using fossils, paintings, drawings, short films and models to trace how our impression of these beautiful beasts has changed over the centuries.

UNTIL 1 JUNE, TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

Haarlem from the water Amsterdam isn’t the only city famous for its canal cruises. Haarlem also has a close connection to water, with the River Spaarne meandering through the heart of the city, and various canals and waterways weaving their way between ancient monuments and sights. It’s a beautifully relaxed way to explore Haarlem and a great opportunity to get your bearings before setting off to explore the sights in more detail.

Adriaan windmill

VISITHAARLEM.COM

In the heart of Haarlem, the Adriaan windmill, originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the banks of the scenic River Spaarne on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. It burned down in 1932, and it took 70 years for local citizens to raise enough money to rebuild the mill. The view of old Haarlem from the platform above the River Spaarne and the city is not to be missed. MOLENADRIAAN.NL

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Beyond Amsterdam 78 | TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Further Afield From art and culture to beer and Eurovision, the Netherlands in spring has something for everyone. So venture out of Amsterdam, escape the tourists, and enjoy one of the many events the rest of the country has to offer!

Louise Bourgeois at the Voorlinden Museum

The Voorlinden museum in Wassenaar presents To Unravel a Torment: a sixdecade survey exhibition featuring 40 works by artist Louise Bourgeois from the Glenstone Collection, The Easton Foundation and Voorlinden. Bourgeois was a radical figure, at times out of step with prevailing taste and ideas. Today she is recognised as an icon of late 20th-century art, who combined personal narrative and psychological insight with extraordinary artistic innovations. ‘Maman’ (1999) – the largest of her famous spiders – is installed on the grounds of Voorlinden as the gateway to the exhibition. Inside, a selection of early wooden Personage sculptures is shown; as well as pieces in bronze, marble, plaster, rubber and textile; and suites of drawings and prints. There are also several ‘Cells’ installations in which Bourgeois expresses psychic states and emotions such as anger, fear and loneliness, which often evoke a sense of disquiet. The exhibition includes the rarely shown ‘The Destruction of the Father’ (1974), a theatrically-lit diorama served up as a commentary on domineering father figures and the imaginary revenge they inspire. UNTIL 5 MAY, VOORLINDEN.NL

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Dutch Beer Week

In mid-May, the ninth edition of the Nederlands Bierproeffestival (Dutch beer tasting festival) takes place at the Grote Kerk in The Hague. It’s the opening event of Dutch Beer Week that celebrates the country’s favourite brew throughout the Netherlands. At the festival, 45 Dutch breweries present more than 250 beers – offering a huge variety in a relaxed atmosphere. Visitors have the opportunity to talk with brew masters about their beers and the brewing process, and can even sign up for masterclasses given by beer experts to learn more about the various beer styles. Plus, there are of course plenty of interesting and delicious beer and food combinations to try. 14-16 MAY, WEEKVANHETNEDERLANDSEBIER.NL

TEFAF Maastricht

TEFAF Maastricht, the world’s leading art fair, continues to act as a beacon for the art market, welcoming around 70,000 visitors during the course of the fair. It provides exhibitors and collectors with an unrivalled platform from which to buy and sell works of art, from ancient art to contemporary. Established in 1988, TEFAF is widely regarded as the world’s pre-eminent organisation of fine art, antiques and design. TEFAF runs three fairs internationally: TEFAF Maastricht, which covers 7,000 years of art history; TEFAF New York Spring, focused on modern and contemporary art and design; and TEFAF New York Fall, covering fine and decorative art from antiquity to 1920. 7-15 MARCH, TEFAF.COM

Eurovision comes to Rotterdam

At the 2019 Eurovision Song Contest, Dutch singer-songwriter Duncan Laurence landed the Netherlands their fifth Eurovision win. As a result, the 2020 Eurovision Song Contest – the 65th to take place – comes to the Ahoy Arena in Rotterdam in May. The first semi-final is happening on 12 May, the second semi-final on 14 May, and the Grand Final on Saturday 16 May. Undoubtedly tickets will sell out quickly, but there’s a third wave of tickets that go on sale in mid-March. Keep an eye on the website for details. And even if you’re not a lucky ticket holder, the atmosphere in Rotterdam is bound to be festive! 12, 14 & 16 MAY, EUROVISION.TV

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Need to Know

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7 pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 10 am-6 pm iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 7 am-10 pm

CLASS 2

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip each carr

YM A D 1 A D R MSTE

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

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USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!): I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals. STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange. AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels. AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands. The following public holidays fall in spring 2020: • 10 April: Good Friday is not an official public holiday but many businesses do close • 12 April: Easter Sunday is an official public holiday • 13 April: Easter Monday is an official public holiday • 27 April: King’s Day is an official public holiday • 4 May: National Remembrance Day is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close • 5 May: Liberation Day is an official public holiday in 2020 (and every five years) • 21 May: Ascension Day is an official public holiday • 31 May: Pentecost Sunday is an official public holiday • 1 June: Pentecost Monday is an official public holiday

In Case of Emergency

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app.

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses with debit or credit card (cash is no longer accepted). To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is now illegal.

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On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘I come to Amsterdam to enjoy the relaxed city ambience. You can’t find anywhere quite like it!’ Barkha Chugh (25), cabin crew from New Delhi, India

‘I’m a big fan of Ajax so I loved visiting the Johan Cruijff ArenA. The club’s history is very impressive.’ Faliko Dominguez (21), bartender from Malaga, Spain ‘We love shopping together for clothes in Amsterdam, especially in the Magna Plaza.’ Michal Adam (43), baker from Amsterdam, the Netherlands; Patricia Aleksandra (17), logistics student from Katowice, Poland

‘For us, Amsterdam represents a liberal way of life that we cannot experience back home in Taiwan. We enjoy the freedom here.’ I Ching Fang (22) from Ostrava, Czech Republic; Chin Liu (23) from Innsbruck, Austria, both English literature students

‘Our tip is to visit the Anne Frank House. The stories you step into there are so interesting and important that it’s unlike any other museum.’ Ines Rodrigues (19), international relations student from Coventry, UK; Joao Nuno (20), journalism student from Luton, UK

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merritt Gurley, Hallie Engel, Jayne Robinson, Steve Korver), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands, Barbara van den Berg) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice @aboland.nl publisher amsterdam & partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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With thanks to all lenders: vangoghmuseum.com/inthepicture-creditlines

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2020

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