I amsterdam Magazine summer 2018

Page 1

Eat & shop Dining by daylight Summer cocktails Ice cream heaven

Around town

What’s on

Go North Heritage castles & green gardens

Pride Amsterdam Summer festivals Star Wars in concert

Magazine | The Summer Issue 2018

The Summer Issue

Life’s a Beach

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

Have a nice stay

Vol 1 #3 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE



Connect with us 24/7 You can connect with us, regardless of time, place or circumstance. You’ll always be served and helped - klm.com


S E SA AV V E T H E THE D DA AT TE E

® ®

24 24 -- 26 26 AUGUST AUGUST 2018 2018

OOSTERDOK OOSTERDOK AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM Hoofdpartner Hoofdpartner

Met dank aan Met dank aan


Contents 5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Life’s a Beach AMSTERDAM’S SANDY SPOTS

From the city’s urban beaches to the dunes of the Dutch coastline, we’ve got summer covered.

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop GO ON, YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO

Discover the city’s must-eat restaurants, must-drink bars and must-hit shops. Because you’re worth it.

35 What’s On FUN AND FROLICS

From Europe’s most epic Gay Pride festival to the best summer concerts, there’s never a dull moment in Amsterdam.

55 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This season’s feature is edgy, hipster hotspot Noord. Plus, the best places to hang out in the rest of the city.

71 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Summer is the perfect season to get out and enjoy nature at Holland’s heritage castles and green gardens…

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, SEE PAGE 86 V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

S

ous les pavés, la plage! (under the pavement, the beach) was the oftheard slogan of the Summer of Love, the famous Paris student revolt of ’68. Little is it known that those students were inspired by Provo, the peaceful Amsterdam revolutionary movement of the ’60s. Amsterdammers, as it turned out, took the slogan quite seriously. Whenever paving tiles are temporarily removed because of a renovation, and there’s quite a bit of that going on as you may have noticed, an instant beach is born. The nearest café owner sets up a few tables and chairs and hey presto – there’s your beach. Amsterdammers are good at making do with what they have, climate-wise. No wonder that we have turned large parts of our waterfront – not in short supply – into ‘city beaches’, which are strictly speaking not beaches at all, but most often former shipyards or loading ramps of industrial sites covered in sand. If that. Pllek in Noord is one such place. As is Roest in Oost. Blijburg, on the other hand, is a temporary beach on the artificial island of IJburg that has been moved around whenever housing construction came too close. For more information about If you’re here on a hot day, let’s Amsterdam, also not forget that Amsterdam visit our website: has lovely real beaches with sand iamsterdam.com dunes on the North Sea coast. Although technically located in a different town, they’re at a distance most of us wouldn’t mind traveling for grocery shopping. So make the most of your summer stay in Amsterdam, enjoy the ridiculous number of outdoor festivals in and around town, and definitely put your feet in the sand. Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine


Summer 6 | TEXT: JAYNE ROBINSON

Zandvoort Beach


Enjoy a glass of cool, crisp rosé at one of the urban beaches.

Life’s a Beach! With its abundance of urban beaches and seaside resorts, Amsterdam is one of Europe’s most pleasant summertime surprises.

T

o most minds, the words ‘Amsterdam’ and ‘beach’ aren’t the most likely of bedfellows. After all, a northern European climate, inland location and medieval city centre don’t exactly scream steel drums and piña coladas. But having never been the type to let something as trivial as geography and architecture restrict them, the pleasure-seeking Dutch have set about establishing one of the best urban beach cultures in the world – right here in Amsterdam. It makes sense, when you think about it. Amsterdam is a city built – metaphorically and literally – on water. From the glory years of the Golden Age, when the city’s fortune

was tied up in the seafaring trade of its shipping companies, to the famous reclamation of land from the sea, the city’s relationship with water can be seen and felt at every turn. Of course, you won’t find much of the island life in the centre of the city. But head just 10 minutes out from the canals and cobbles of the Amsterdam-of-a-thousand-postcards, and you’ll see the famous Dutch ingenuity put to use. A

Seaside

Just half an hour from Amsterdam, the beach stretches all the way from Zeeland in the south up as far as the Dutch islands. Seaside towns of Zandvoort and IJmuiden are only a short journey away. Check out one of the summer events om page 81 and make the most of Amsterdam’s beaches!

7


Summer

Get comfy with these colourful Havaianas flipflops from De Bijenkorf.

8 | SANDY HOTSPOTS

found favour with Amsterdam’s neo-hippies. It is now known for its bohemian beach parties, clean swimming water and colourful beach club, which looks much further east than eastern Amsterdam for inspiration.

wonderful array of urban beaches has transformed post-industrial wasteland or unloved parks on the city’s outskirts into colourful summertime hotspots. Travel a little further out of town (half an hour west ought to do it), and you’ll soon hit the seemingly endless white beaches of the North Sea and the seaside resorts of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal.

New land

‘God created the world, but the Dutch created Holland.’ This famous saying refers to the way in which, from the 16th century onwards, the Dutch created new polders from the sea, reclaiming and transforming wetlands. This commitment to converting unworkable land into something valuable and communal continues to thrive, especially on Amsterdam’s outskirts. Everywhere you look, lost landscapes are being regenerated into recreational space for the next generation. And, as luck

Urban renewal

would have it, this space seems to include a lot of beaches. Located on the most recently reclaimed of these lands, the artificial island archipelago of IJburg, lies Blijburg aan Zee – aptly named, since blij means happy in Dutch. A large beach on a sandy peninsula extending eastwards from the islands, Blijburg was taken from the water in the mid-nineties and quickly

Some of Amsterdam’s renewed landscapes are disused industrial sites: throwbacks to Amsterdam’s shipbuilding heyday when steel and brawn ruled instead of silicon and startups. Now that those days have passed, what to do with all those derelict shipyards and steam engine factories sitting empty in prime waterfront locations? When artists and squatters started moving into the abandoned sites on the island of Oostenburg in the east of the city and the NDSM Wharf in Amsterdam Noord, the City of Amsterdam took a bottom-up decision: it would help mobilise these communities with funding and practical

Strandzuid

INSIDER TIP

‘Rapa Nui is a lovely beach club on Bloemendaal Beach. We go here when we fancy a relaxed drink – it’s easy to get settled in on sunny days! ’ Joanne Wyatt (42), Project Manager

Blijburg Beach

Amsterdam’s largest city beach reaches out from the eastern shore of the man-made island of IJburg. It’s one of the city’s hippest (and hippiest) places to swim, sunbathe and hang out when the sun shines – although this beachy escape is popular all year round thanks to its large club house that radiates sunshine even when the winter weather kicks in. On summer evenings, the live music and bonfires keep beachgoers entertained until well after sundown. PAMPUSLAAN 501, BLIJBURG.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Sprawling out unexpectedly behind the RAI conference centre, this leafy oasis of boardwalks and beach loungers reopened last summer following a major refurbishment. With a more upmarket vibe, Strandzuid offers sun seekers an opportunity to kick off the work shoes, loosen the tie and enjoy some surf ’n’ turf cooked over charcoals by the water. EUROPAPLEIN 22, STRAND-ZUID.NL


Amsterdam's urban beaches are home to dozens of bars, where summer cocktails abound.

‘God created the world, but the Dutch created Holland ’ support, working with socially-minded organisations to transform the terrain in creative – and beachy! – ways. In the mid-nineties, artists, squatters and skaters filed a temporary plan for the NDSM Wharf, and the Kunststad (art city) was born. Twenty years on, it’s a thriving hub of creative industry and entertainment, or, as the Dutch call it, a broedplaats (creative hub). It’s also home to one of the city’s most popular urban beaches, prime summertime hangout Pllek. A similar thing happened on the man-made Oostenburg island, where the ghosts of mar-

9

itime industry left behind by the Dutch East India Company and, later, the steamboat company KNSM have found a new purpose. The restaurant, bar and club complex Roest boasts the obligatory beach, along with an imaginative cultural programme that includes open-air films, music festivals, makers’ markets and, of course, any excuse to stoke up the campfires. It’s not just Amsterdam’s industrial areas that have been rejuvenated with watery recreation in mind. In the postwar neighbourhood of Nieuw-West, the Sloterplas Lake that forms the bulk of the vast, green Sloterpark has benefited from the municipality’s recent €2.5 million investment and now boasts one of the best – and still relatively undiscovered – city beaches in town. Framed by leafy trees and taking its reference points from nature rather than industry, the beach has been treated to picnic benches,

INSIDER TIP

‘There’s nowhere better on a sunny day in Amsterdam than the beach at Pllek. And when the night falls they stoke up the campfires. It really is very special.’ James Cook (35), Composer

Sloterplas Lake

Pllek

NDSM Wharf has been transformed into one of Amsterdam’s most popular city beaches by the team behind Pllek, a huge restaurant and bar built from reclaimed materials. This summer, you can catch films on Pllek's beach every Tuesday evening from June to September during their ‘Films with a View Sunscreenings’ programme. Pllek

TT NEVERITAWEG 59, PLLEK.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 16% Find out more at globalblue.com


Summer

Get your shades on with this pair of sunnies from Polette.

SANDY HOTSPOTS

11

‘Life really is a beach if you’re visiting Amsterdam this summer’ sun loungers and spaces for food trucks. The lake itself is undergoing an extensive water cleaning scheme by Waternet, who have introduced algae-eating mussels and underwater plants to clear harmful bacteria from the water in a sustainable, eco-friendly way.

Natural landscapes

All this ingenuity and urban planning is well and good, but sometimes it makes sense to let nature do the hard work. Bucolic beach environFind out more ments can be found at Amsterabout day trips to Amsterdam's damse Bos (Amsterdam Forest, beaches on: one of Europe’s largest city iamsterdam.com/ parks) and further out of town daytrips at rural nature reserves like the Het Twiske recreational area and the 115-hectare Haarlemmermeerse Bos to the southwest of Amsterdam.

Hangout Spots WOODSTOCK 69 A party place, known as the hippy tent of Bloemendaal. It has a colourful eastern-infused decor with palm trees and umbrellas, with live music and DJs.

Woodstock 69

And of course, those looking for a bit more salt water in their seaside trip will do well to head out westwards until they reach the shores of the North Sea and the beach resorts of Zandvoort and Bloemendaal. Here, clean white sands and dunes hug the coastline for nine uninterrupted kilometres of sunbathing, water sports and lively beach clubs.

WOODSTOCK69.NL

RAPA NUI A really nice, relaxed beach club at Bloemendaal, which tends to attract families. Perfect for when you just feel like a drink without having to party. RAPANUI.NL

REPUBLIEK An upmarket beach bar at Bloemendaal for the more sophisticated crowd – you could easily mistake it for a beach club in Ibiza. REPUBLIEKBLOEMENDAAL.NL

Het Twiske

Het Twiske recreational park is home to the Speelsloot, the Kure-Jan Strand, the Doesstrand and many more spots for cooling off in the water. You can also rent canoes, row boats and sailing boats to head off on your own adventure. TWISKE-WATERLAND.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

So grab that towel and put on those flipflops: be it inside the city or just outside its gates, life really is a beach if you’re visiting Amsterdam this summer.


Amsterdam Gifts 12

TOP 5 #iamsterdamstore

iamsterdam.com/store

V@AMSTERDAM CUSHIONS Give a V@Amsterdam cushion and you’ll not only brighten up a loved one’s home, but you’ll also give much-needed support to the non-profit organisations in Europe that produce them. The canal house motifs add the spirit of Amsterdam to any decor, and upholds the time-honoured tradition of letterpress printing. Cushions and pillows, €60–€100

POM SHAWLS Ladies can wrap themselves in Amsterdam wherever they go with these shawls from POM, a relatively young Dutch design duo and brand. Created in an Amsterdam studio, some of the many intricate patterns and high-quality fabrics used for the shawls are designed with the city in mind: such as a pattern of black and white bicycles and rows of chaotic canal houses in multiple colours.

RIVERSTONES You can’t go wrong with jewellery as a gift, especially if it’s jewellery made with meaning. Dutch brand Riverstones creates its pieces with the aim to bring moments of peace and reflection to the busy lives of women. €29.50–€39.50

€59.95–€99.95

O MY BAG Amsterdam company O My Bag crafts its beautiful, durable and decadently soft leather bags using sustainable materials in clean, safe tanneries. The bags are sewn in India by craftspeople working in factories for fair wages, and O My Bag also offers equal opportunities to women and minorities – that’s a lot of feel-good factor to carry around with you.

DE PINDAKAASWINKEL You won’t hear anybody saying “helaas, pindakaas” (Dutch expression that means “too bad”) when enjoying the purity of peanut butter from the Pindakaaswinkel. Founded by a farmer’s son who wanted something beyond simple flavours (and no additives), the Pindakaaswinkel offers flavours such as caramel sea salt, date and cinnamon, and white chocolate.

€59

€4.95–€5.95

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

IJ-hal

Central Station main entrance


Your Trip

14 15 16 17

Twelve Hours Twenty-four Hours Forty-eight Hours Seventy-two Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72+ hours

Hire a boat © TORQUEEDO ELECTRIC OUTBOARD

Summer in Amsterdam is best spent on the water, and there’s no better way to experience it than to captain your own ship. Gather your group and hire a boat from one of Amsterdam’s many rental companies (you don’t need a boat licence for smaller boats). DURATION: 4 HOURS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Your Trip

12

14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY AND JAYNE ROBINSON

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide.

How to spend your time in… Head for the terrace

Catch an outdoor concert

In summertime, a full line-up of free performances, concerts and dance events take to the Vondelpark’s tucked-away stage.

Al-fresco drinks on a sunsoaked terrace offer a slice of Amsterdam’s summertime culture. You’ll find excellent terrace bars in every neighbourhood, from traditional Dutch ‘brown cafés’ to rooftop cocktail bars. DURATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Browse the markets

A one-hour tour from the view of a boat is a fantastic way to explore the city. Order your canal cruise ticket to save time: iamsterdam.com/ canalcruise, or get a free cruise with the I amsterdam City Card.

Hunt for treasure in the form of antiques, books and vintage clothing at Amsterdam’s famous markets. The monthly IJ-Hallen market at NDSM Wharf is one of the biggest, while the famous Albert Cuypmarkt in De Pijp (daily except Sundays) is great for sampling Dutch dishes.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Cruise the canals

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


15

© MERIJN ROUBROEKS

© FRÔ DE MARACUJÁ!

300

Around 300 festivals take place in Amsterdam every year, and in summer you’re spoiled for choice. Partygoers can choose from vast selections of music, theatre and cultural festivals most weekends.

hours in Amsterdam

Fly above the city

Admire panoramic views of the city on the top floor of the A’DAM Tower, where thrillseekers can fly over the edge of the 100-metre building on Europe’s highest swing. Board the free ferry behind Central Station to cross the River IJ.

© KOEN SMILDE PHOTOGRAPHY

24

© DENNIS BOUMAN

Sample local brews

Although Belgium gets most of the recognition, the Dutch hold their own when it comes to craft beer. Sample some of the finest at Brouwerij ‘t IJ, which boasts a sprawling terrace under the city’s tallest windmill. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Surround yourself in culture

Enjoy a major museum at Amsterdam’s Museumplein: a sunny green square that’s home to the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum (all free with the City Card) and the mostphotographed I amsterdam sign. DURATION: 2–3 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Explore the Jordaan and Nine Streets

A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard-perfect slice of Amsterdam.

© KOEN SMILDE PHOTOGRAPHY

DURATION: 2 HOURS

II A AM MSSTTEERRD DA AM MM MA AG GA AZZIIN NEE


Your Trip 16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

For a night out with big cats and jungle dwellers, head to Amsterdam’s ARTIS Royal Zoo, which stays open till sunset on Saturdays in June, July and August.

Hit the beach

Swim, sunbathe and bask in the vibes of Amsterdam’s many urban beaches reclaimed from former industrial areas, including Pllek, Roest and Dok.

48

hours in Amsterdam

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Expand your Discover the culinary horizons eastern neighbourhoods Foodies unite at Amsterdam’s

DURATION: 3 HOURS

The city’s Oost and Plantage neighbourhoods are filled with idyllic gardens, picnic spots and cultural highlights like the Hortus Botanicus (Botanical Garden) and Tropenmuseum. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Don't miss the Fashion Cities Africa exhibition at Tropenmuseum

© KOEN SMILDE

popular culinary festivals – and there’s something to satisfy every craving, from street-food fairs to upscale restaurant festivals.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


72

17

Learn about Amsterdam’s Jewish history

Delve into Amsterdam’s historically significant monuments, with a visit to Anne Frank House Museum, where the Frank family hid during WWII, and the Jewish Historical Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Visit historic fishing villages

Cycle through the countryside

Travel back in time to sleepy coastal towns that have remained virtually unchanged for centuries. In Zaanse Schans, Volendam or Marken, you can admire the landscapes, towering windmills and traditional houses.

Hop on your bike and spend a leisurely afternoon taking in the city’s lush countryside and monumental architecture. Follow the Amstel River towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, or bike along the River Vecht to catch a glimpse of castles and stately homes. DURATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 2–3 HOURS

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

© ANNE FRANK HOUSE

hours or more

DURATION: 2 HOURS

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

Catch a film under the stars

Stay ahead of Hollywood’s latest at the open-air film festivals that pop up around the city in late summer. Grab a blanket and head to unique movie venues: beaches, rooftops, parks and more. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our our visitor centres (see page 86) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers. IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Sunbake at a beach club

A beach holiday is just a hop, skip and train (or bus) ride away. Popular beach resorts Bloemendaal and Zaandvoort aan Zee are lined with beachfront bars and cafés for lazy summer afternoons. DURATION: 2–3 HOURS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


BRAND NEW DEPARTMENT STORES IN THE NETHERLANDS Discover fashion, shoes, bags, gifts, beauty, home and much more.

AMSTERDAM | ROKIN 21-49

AMSTERDAM | LEIDEN | DEN HAAG | ROTTERDAM ALMERE | BREDA | DEN BOSCH | MAASTRICHT | TILBURG | ZWOLLE | ENSCHEDE | AMERSFOORT | HAARLEM HUDSONBAY.NL


Eat, Drink & Shop

20 Fresh & Green 22 Street Food 23 Summer Cocktails 24 Shopper’s Paradise 26 Gelato’s Super Scoops 27 Fine Dining 28 Posh Shops 30 Dining by Daylight 31 Local Liquors 32 Main Street Marvels

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Juniper & Kin

This new panoramic 21stfloor bar combines justpicked botanicals from its rooftop greenhouse with the best local liquor to create cocktails like the Elderflower, a twist on the classic Hugo, with Dutch bubbly, rhubarb and elderflower (€13.50).

©JONI ISRAELI

AMSTELVLIETSTRAAT 4 JUNIPERANDKIN.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Eat

As refreshing as lemonade but so much better for you: lemon & fig water kefir (€5.95) from Thull’s.

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

PRETORIUSSTRAAT 69, THULLS.NL

Bar Kantoor

The old kantoor (‘office’) of Amsterdam’s former Western Gas Works (Westergasfabriek) is now a 100% sustainable restaurant with a mean green interior where the organic allday menu resembles a folder, the bar is made of antique office drawers and an aquaponics eco-wall offers a builtin herb garden and fish tank stocked with rainbow trout. HAARLEMMERWEG 10 BARKANTOOR.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Beluga lentil salad with hard-boiled eggs, mushrooms, Parmesan, veggies, seeds and greens in a truffle dressing (€9.50) at organic salad bar, Venkel. JAVASTRAAT 55, VENKELSALADE.NL

21

Sjefietshe

Fresh & Green

Try a ‘Dam-style take on ceviche’ (you get three) plus paired cocktails and a dessert for €50 at this popular pop-up concept. For details and dates, see Facebook. FACEBOOK.COM/ PG/SJEFIETSHE/EVENTS

Too hot to bother? Here’s how to cater to all your coolest summer eating inclinations.

A

s the temperatures go up, our inclination for eating hot and heavy foods tends to go down. Instead, we crave something refreshing, leafy or raw. But, while you’ll find plenty of salads, traditional tartares, and trendy citrus-soaked fish on Amsterdam’s restaurant menus, it’s the recent rise of the ‘health food’ specialist that’s particularly noteworthy. In fact, over a dozen poké bowl places have popped up in the last year, and so many vegan hotspots have opened recently that Amsterdam now has the dubious claim of being ‘Vegan Capital of Europe’. Meanwhile, the slew of new sushi concepts slinging all-you-can-eat raw fish shows no signs of abating. Even Amsterdam’s Insta-famous avocado restaurant, The Avocado Show, has sprouted a take-out sibling and a second eatery is set to open soon. As the trend for lighter, greener foods goes mainstream, it’s perhaps no surprise that some are taking the idea of sustainable sourcing even further. Two recently opened restaurants have installed aquaponics systems, which allow them to raise fish and grow produce in a symbiotic environment, after which as much as possible (yes, even the fish) is used fresh in the restaurant or pickled for later use. Fermentation is, of course, not only beneficial for the environment (because it eliminates food waste) but thanks to gut-friendly bacteria and food enzymes, very healthy, too. And so, it all comes full-circle.

Persijn

You can’t get it much fresher or greener than the locallysourced mozzarella in this summery Dutch Caprese. AMSTELVLIETSTRAAT 4 PERSIJN.NL

Prinz Wolf Glazed earthenware cabbage-leaf tureen, available at ARKET (€25, arket.com)

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

The Netherlands’ first ‘tartaria’ offers seven hand-cut tartares, including classic steak, seafood, veggie and fruit (!) versions (from €8). PRINSENGRACHT 411 PRINZWOLF.NL


Eat & Drink 22 | FAVOURITE STREET EATS

For picture-perfect poké bowls (€12), sushi wraps (€10) and handrolls (€5) on the go, De Pijp-based fast-casual eatery Temakery is a good bet. FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 128, TEMAKERY.NL

Israeli Sabich

Israeli sabich, or pitta stuffed with fried aubergine and hard-boiled eggs, is a welcome addition to the menu at Sir Hummus Kitchen. Of course, you can also play it safe with their tahini-tastic hummus. RUYSDAELKADE 181 SIRHUMMUS.NL

Draadjesvlees Kroket

© RENEE JANSEN

MAHARG YZZID WERD ©

Tick off two typical Dutch delicacies (croquettes and Dutch beef stew) in one hearty hit (€2.50), and order a side of Flemish fries (from €2.50) with homemade piccalilli mayo − they’re particularly good at Par Hasard. CEINTUURBAAN 113-115 CAFEPARHASARD.NL

Street Food

Due to strict regulations, Amsterdam’s street-food scene is mostly an indoor affair.

Chilli Freak

If you like your pizza toppings hotter than hot − this one has roasted chilli sauce, spicy pork sausage and fresh chilli − run to The Commons for this €10 bargain.

Hummus & Za’atar Manouche

WIBAUTSTRAAT 131 THECOMMONSRESTAURANT.COM

Duck Bao Buns

Amsterdam’s best steamed buns can be found in an unexpected place: halal stand Duck Truck in Amsterdam Central Station, where your Dutch duck bao bun (€7.50) comes with fermented chillies, julienned leek and cucumber in a citrusy kalamansi dressing, crispy hoisin ‘skin’ and homemade papaya pepper and hoisin-plum sauces. STATIONSPLEIN 1, FACEBOOK.NL/DUCKTRUCK.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

One of the most delicious vegan options in town is The Lebanese Sajeria at a tiny eatery in the Nine Streets, where you can grab your manouche (€8) to go. The authentic Lebanese wholewheat flatbreads are baked to order on a dome-shaped saj griddle and topped with homemade hummus, za’atar spices (a mix of dried wild thyme, sumac and roasted sesame seeds), tomato, cucumber and fresh mint. WIJDE HEISTEEG 1, THESAJERIA.COM


Stylish Pulitzer’s Bar offers a taste of South America on the Amsterdam canals with its ‘Paloma’ (€14), a refreshing mix of tequila, lime and grapefruit.

For more on food and drink in Amsterdam, visit our blog: iamsterdam.com/ blog/food-and-drink

Summer Cocktails Our selection of winning warm-weather cocktails is sure to put some snap in your summer step.

A

fter tasting our way around Amsterdam’s latest cocktail menus, we’ve found your favourite new summer cocktail. Go to darkly delicious Marcel Wanders-designed Bluespoon Restaurant & Bar for a ‘Naked on Tahiti’ (€17), a creamy concoction of 12-year-old rum, white chocolate liqueur, passion fruit, lime and vanilla-chilli syrup that’s sweet and naughty, like summer.

Or settle into a Mad Men-era armchair at Lotti’s Café Bar & Grill, a popular watering hole for creative types, while sipping a soothingly citrusy, bitterish ‘Mediterranean Spritz’ (€13), a blend of Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, Campari and lemon. At trendy Izakaya, South America meets Japan in every glass of ‘Guava Mojito’ (€15), a fruity take on the Cuban highball.

PULITZER’S BAR, KEIZERSGRACHT 234, PULITZERSBAR.NL * BLUESPOON RESTAURANT & BAR, PRINSENGRACHT 587, BLUESPOON-RESTAURANT.NL * LOTTI’S CAFÉ BAR & GRILL, HERENGRACHT 255, LOTTIS.COM * IZAKAYA, ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 2-6, IZAKAYA-RESTAURANT.COM

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

23


Shop

24 | SCENIC SHOPPING BOUTIQUES

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerdijk

Shopper’s Paradise Stroll through the higgledy-piggledy streets of Amsterdam’s most picturesque shopping district.

Studio Nolo

Stop by this Haarlemmerdijk pop-up for hip yet affordable homewares selected by an interior stylist. You’ll find cement-look rhino heads (€35), boho Ibiza-style cushions (from €25.95), woven seagrass baskets (from €20), old city map wall hangings (from €27.50), and brass pineapple key dishes (€15.50).

Y

ou’ll find a dazzling range of specialty shops and high-end fashion retailers selling local jeans, Dutch design, modern art, handcrafted jewellery, artisan food and vintage everything in the famous Negen Straatjes (the ‘Nine Streets’ that connect the main canals), the Jordaan and the Haarlemmerstraat/dijk. With its charming Golden Age canals, historic gingerbread-like houses and winding lanes, this part of Amsterdam is a true joy to discover on foot. Tip: don’t miss the market on Noordermarkt, if you’re in the area on a Monday or Saturday.

HAARLEMMERPLEIN 2 STUDIONOLO.NL

Wear your heart on your sleeve with SeeMe’s sleek silver fair-trade cuff (€150), handmade by survivors of violence against women. HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 72 SEEME.ORG

PRJCT AMS

Situated on the corner of one of the lesser-known Nine Streets, this store stocks a well-curated collection of clean-lined yet ever-so-edgy highend men’s streetwear, footwear and accessories labels (Snob Milano, UONO, Kane, Passi), as well as unique and interesting designer collabs and quality basics from PRJCT AMS’ own private label. Also check out Concrete Matter, a few doors down, for vintage-inspired fashion finds and great gifts for discerning men. GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG 18 PRJCTAMS.COM

Inc. Fashion

From Bobo Choses’ toddler swim bloomers with banana print (€25) and practical kids’ Salt Water Sandals (from €55) to Ruby Tuesday’s black-and-white dotted maxi dresses for mum (€179), this sustainable clothing boutique proves that environmentally friendly can be fashion forward, too. HERENSTRAAT 17 INCFASHIONAMSTERDAM.COM

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Cactus vase (€35) available from Studio Nolo.

Try brigadeiros in a world of flavours at Sweet Bob

25

BROUWERSGRACHT 113, SWEETBOB.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Daniel Archutowski (36), cofounder of organic unisex clothing label Unrecorded

Shop red striped bikinis (pictured, €69.90) and sexy black eyelash lace cheekster shorts (€18) for her, or pink avocado-patterned swimshorts (€59.95) and Amsterdam gableprint boxer shorts (€59.95) for him at this trendy Dutch swimwear and underwear label.

‘Being “unrecorded” stands for doing things differently,’ says Archutowski (ex-Kuyichi, Scotch & Soda, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger) about his line of no-frills sustainable clothing in basic colours (XXS to XXL). ‘While many brands seem to be doing the same thing lately, they’re often quite expensive. We wanted to offer a wider audience a quality product made from sustainable materials for an affordable price [100% organic cotton T-shirts go for €30]. We’re lucky that our garments are cut and sewn in one of Portugal’s leading ateliers, where high-end Scandinavian labels like Filippa K, Acne Studios and Norse Projects are made.’ Why Portugal? ‘It’s one of the few European countries with an intact supply chain,’ he explains. ‘We’re also happy with our location in the Nine Streets, which is simultaneously local and international, like our brand.’

HUIDENSTRAAT 16 SAMFRIDAY.COM

HARTENSTRAAT 36 UNRECORDED.CO

Sam Friday

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


The dense handcrafted gelato-on-a-stick at Amsterdam’s first artisan popsicle bar, IJsmanschap, comes in flavours such as hibiscus-raspberry.

Eat

VAN SPILBERGENSTRAAT 2

26 | ICE CREAM HEAVEN

IJSMANSCHAP.NL

Super Scoops Whether your taste runs to zany flavours or you prefer more traditional frozen favourites, Amsterdam offers a sugar rush-inducing array of Italian-style gelaterias and local ice cream shops. IJsboutique

Van Soest

Head to this charming corner café near Vondelpark for the trendiest scoops in town. Think matcha, decadent double chocolate, fat-free strawberry sorbet (with over 50% real Dutch Elsanta strawberries), and IJsboutique’s signature champagne ice cream, made with Moët et Chandon.

Trust a chocolatier to make the city’s best chocolatedipped cones, a moreish match for gelato and sorbets in flavours such as biscotticream, lemon-basil and Sicilian pistachio. Open until 22:00 in the summer months, it’s the perfect place for your dessert fix.

JOHANNES VERHULSTSTRAAT 107 IJSBOUTIQUE.NL

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 143 VANSOEST-AMSTERDAM.NL

Massimo Gelato

Monte Pelmo

Massimo Bertonasco grew up in a latteria, where his relatives sold dairy products and ice cream. With flavours such as ricotta & fig, Cassata Siciliana and zabaione, he is bringing a taste of home to De Pijp: local organic milk, authentic Italian ingredients and artisan techniques.

After stints in a gelateria and a canteen for Italian guest workers, producing Italian ice cream was a natural next step for co-owner Riek Cornelisse. Today, this ice cream factory’s known for interesting flavours like liquorice, stroopwafel (Dutch syrup cookies), blood orange-Campari and limoncello.

VAN OSTADESTRAAT 147 FACEBOOK.COM/MASSIMOGELATOAMSTERDAM

TWEEDE ANJELIERSDWARSSTRAAT 17 MONTEPELMO.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Known simply as the ‘Rose’, this delicate signature dessert – the new ‘Apple’ – beautifully balances beetroot, lychee and goat’s cheese to delicious sweetsavoury effect.

27

Riverside Rendezvous Bord’Eau Restaurant Gastronomique* presents beautifully prepared plates of food in a chic setting with stunning river views, white linen, crystal glassware, and seamless yet relaxed service.

W

e featured the latest restaurant of Bord’Eau’s former chefs on this page previously, and couldn’t wait to see Bas van Kranen, the new hire at this cornerstone of Amsterdam cuisine, in action. For his debut menu, the transplant from Restaurant De Leuf* in Limburg was ‘inspired by nature’ and the restaurant’s location ‘by the water’, and seafood like langoustine, octopus and crayfish make a star turn.

Imagine slivers of red mullet swimming in a lightly gelled sea of pink pomegranate leche de tigre (a tart sauce usually found in Peruvian ceviche) with Inca berries and coriander cream. Or scallops bathing in a light Thai shrimp consommé with green papaya and yuzu. Trust us: if there are still plenty of fish in the sea, this is where you should be eating them. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14, BORDEAU.NL (CLOSED AUGUST 1-21)

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Shop 28 | RETAIL THERAPY

Maje

This chic ready-to-wear label is once again carrying the baton of French girl-cool with its latest collection, which features breezy broderie anglaise and floaty floral dresses, embroidered tulle and metallic pleated skirts, crisp white ruffled cotton blouses, and satin bomber jackets. Do keep in mind that sizes run small, but if you like what you see, check out sister label Sandro, across the street for classic Parisian style (m/f) with a modern twist. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 18 MAJE.COM

INSIDER INTERVIEW Patrick Munsters (53), founder of luxury label Salle Privée

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter

The Posh Part Zuid is the place to flash your cash, show off your fancy car, and sport your designer gear.

A

msterdam’s most moneyed district is famously home to the city’s big three museums, but also to one of the Netherlands’ most exclusive shopping destinations, the P.C. Hooftstraat (known locally as the P.C. or ‘pay say’). This is the area to flash your cash, show off your fancy car and wear your designer duds (or

buy some more). For respected specialists and chic local brands, do check out Van Baerlestraat or head to nearby Cornelis Schuytstraat for exclusive fashion boutiques. Tip: The ZuiderMRKT farmer’s market (behind Het Concertgebouw on Saturdays) offers some of the city’s finest artisan food – a must-visit for foodies. I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

After launching successful fashion and lifestyle brands like Scotch & Soda and Marie Stella Maris, the Dutch entrepreneur’s latest venture may offer a timely alternative to fast-fashion with a permanent collection of timeless essentials. ‘I don’t believe in seasons,’ says Munsters. ‘What we do isn’t about fashion, but about making quality classics and providing the emotional comfort of knowing that your favourite items are always available. It’s a new way of thinking in fashion, and more sustainable, of course.’ In addition to Italian cotton trench coats, unstructured summer blazers and chino-style swimming shorts (produced in the same Italian factory as Prada and Jil Sander) in a muted palette of pebble, night blue and ivory, there is a recently released fragrance ‘wardrobe’ for every occasion. CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 9 SALLE-PRIVEE.COM


Pretty yet practical, with a removable band to keep them on, Dolce & Gabbana kids’ cat-eye sunglasses (€169) are available at Oogappel.

Salle Privée's new ‘Celluloid Heroes’ fragrance is clean, like a freshly ironed shirt, with bergamot, magnolia and sandalwood (€190 for 100 ml). Available at Skins Cosmetics.

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 24, OOGAPPEL.COM

29

Skins Cosmetics

If it’s high-end and hard-to-find, this white-walled cosmetics sanctuary has your fix, including freshly-released summer fragrances from niche names such as Kilian, Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Widian. You’ll also find Susanne Kaufmann’s new anti-ageing skincare range for hands and body, and BioEffect’s latest line of free radical-fighting facial treatment serums. CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL, VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27 SKINS.NL

Natan

This high-fashion house is known for its elegant designs with pure lines, exclusive fabrics and refined details, beloved of Dutch and Belgian royalty. Learn how to dress like Queen Maxima at the Natan flagship store, which gives you access to all of designer Édouard Vermeulen’s readyto-wear collections, as well as some of his handmade and couture pieces. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 23 NATAN.BE

District 10|71

Stop by this multi-brand store for cheerful papayaprint apparel by Dutch label Fabienne Chapot (pictured), playful accessories by Becksöndergaard, affordable jewellery by Amsterdam-based design studio All the Luck in the World, and homewares, textiles and curiosities by social initiative Doing Goods. Upstairs, there’s fashionable menswear by Knowledge Cotton Apparel and local brand Scotch & Soda. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 50 DISTRICT1071.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Eat & Drink

Expect delicate flavours and pretty plates at ARC. by Lute, like this cod with pear, avocado chutney and kaffir lime.

30 | AL-FRESCO EATING

Dining by Daylight S

eemingly endless summer days are one of the great advantages of living or holidaying in Northern Europe. On the longest day (21 June), you’ll be able to enjoy almost 17 hours of daylight, and if the sun’s out there’s no better way to enjoy

the weather than to eat dinner out of doors. But where to go to avoid soggy salads, tired-looking patios and surly service? If you ask us, these tried-and-tested terraces are the perfect places to relax, unwind and enjoy some fabulous food and drink.

Café Americain

Izakaya

Head to this historic Leidseplein terrace next to a famous fountain adorned with fish sculptures to order seafood from an all-day menu (there’s Dutch shrimp cocktail, Zeeland bouillabaisse, grilled lobster, and fresh North Sea fish) or choose one of the many other ‘modern classics’ on offer.

Tuck into Japanese bites with a South American twist, like the signature ‘crispy rice with spicy tuna tartare’ (€12, pictured) or ‘beef tataki with onion ponzu and garlic chips’ (€19) at this scenester spot in De Pijp, where the street terrace catches the last few rays of sunshine.

LEIDSEKADE 97 CAFEAMERICAIN.NL

ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 2-6 IZAKAYA-RESTAURANT.COM

ARC. by Lute

Merkelbach

Settle in under the shade of a 100-year-old tree in the chic garden terrace of the 1892 former city archive-turned-five star hotel, to savour clean modern cuisine (think pulpo with crisp, clear tomato consommé, macadamia nut crunch and herbs, €22) with the odd nod to Dutch celebrity chef Peter Lute’s classical French training.

By the former coach house of the stately Huize Frankendael, Amsterdam’s last manorial estate, this reliable restaurant’s pretty patio overlooks manicured gardens and leafy parklands. Chef Geert Burema’s love of local shines through in dishes featuring Dutch heritage products protected by the Slow Food Ark of Taste.

AMSTELDIJK 67 ARC.AMSTERDAM

MIDDENWEG 72 RESTAURANTMERKELBACH.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Handcrafted local vermouth brand Willem’s Wermoed is making the most of the continuing vermouth boom. Use it to give your classic Negroni a Dutch touch.

Next-Level Liquors Raise a glass to Amsterdam’s new generation of booze brands.

S

ure, visit a proeflokaal (Dutch tasting room) to sample some old-school genevers while you’re in Amsterdam, but don’t forget that there are a lot of other local spirits to try. The Netherlands’ first vermouth, for example. Inspired by the great Golden Age explorers and Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus, one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, Willem’s Wermoed (willemswermoed.com) has a white wine base flavoured with 24 botanicals, including wild thyme, pine tops and cherry stems. Do seek out Vørding’s

Gin (vordingsgin.com), infused with toasted red cedar wood, juniper and cinnamon, for its smooth, smoky, complex flavour, and clean pharmacybottle packaging with handwritten batch numbers. Or how about an interesting salted and spiced rum, created by an Amsterdammer with a Dutch-Caribbean background? Union 55 (union55rum.com) is made with a select blend of smooth cask-aged Barbados rum, hand-infused with five spices for 55 days, and finished with organic Añana salt.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

31


Shop

Get your Rainbow Pack (€36) at the new Tony’s Chocolonely Super Store. OUDEBRUGSTEEG 15,

32 | SHOPPING CENTRAL

TONYSCHOCOLONELY.COM

Shopping District: Centre • Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat

Main Street Marvels In Amsterdam Centre, tourist souvenir stores meet local favourites.

T

wo of Amsterdam’s most important shopping streets are, in fact, polar opposites. Charming Utrechtsestraat is a local favourite for its combination of eclectic concept stores, indie boutiques, designer furniture outlets and historic cafés. Kalverstraat, on the other hand, is exceedingly popular with Dutch day-trippers and tourists, who come for the flagship stores, major fashion chains and discounters. But, if you prefer to combine retail therapy with the joys of air-conditioning, head to premium department stores Hudson’s Bay or De Bijenkorf.

ARKET

The H&M Group’s latest progeny is a clean, serene uncrowded ‘modernday marketplace’ where fashion and lifestyle seamlessly meld. Classic yet contemporary fashion for the whole family is conveniently arranged by colour across four floors, and on the ground level, you’ll find sleek homewares and an in-house café where you can enjoy a flat white and an oven-fresh cinnamon bun. KONINGSPLEIN 20 ARKET.COM

Sissy-Boy

Never mind the slightly unfortunate name, this local lifestyle store is well worth a visit for its hip homewares and affordably priced preppy men’s, women’s and children’s clothing and accessories. In addition to own-brand items, the home collection includes eyecatchers from labels like HK Living, Serax, Meri Meri, Bloomingville and House Doctor, and apparel by Kings of Indigo, JC Rags, Minimum, Gsus and Bellerose. UTRECHTSESTRAAT 81-83 SISSY-BOY.NL

These striped Baublebar beauties tick all the colourtrend boxes (€35, hudsonsbay.nl)

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


This ANNA + NINA pearl-studded Venus shell cuff in gold-plated brass (€99.95, pictured below) is the stuff of seaside dreams.

De Bijenkorf

33

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Aptly named ‘the beehive’, Amsterdam’s most famous luxury department store is always buzzing. Because it boasts the ‘first and only instant tax refund service point in the Netherlands’ it’s one of the best places to shop for exclusive designer brands like JW Anderson (pictured above), Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton, as well as cosmetics, homeware, furniture, luggage, books and gifts.

Isabelle Wolters (23), shop manager at ANNA + NINA

DAM 1 DEBIJENKORF.NL

John Fluevog Shoes

At the Canadian shoe store’s first European outpost, you’ll find unconventional shoe styles (m/f), like these pink and blue brogued wingtip derby’s (pictured, €319) as well as a number of exclusives specially developed for the Amsterdam store. Made in small batches with eco-friendly leather and water-based glue using traditional methods, you can now follow in the footsteps of style icons like Beyoncé and Lady Gaga with a clear conscience. HEILIGEWEG 37 FLUEVOG.COM

What started as an agencyturned-concept store has since become a brand in its own right, with whimsical jewellery, cool-girl sleepwear and eclectic homewares produced in Bali (think seaside-inspired silver and gold jewellery, fun brass palm-leaf mirrors, and stripy leopard kimonos with makeup bags, dinner plates and placemats to match). ‘If you shop here, you’ll get something special that you won’t find anywhere else. Our design aesthetic is quite distinctive and one item can already add something cool and quirky to your home or wardrobe,’ says Wolters. ‘We chose this location for our second store, because it’s really central [around the corner from Dam Square and only a five-minute walk from Central Station], which makes it ideal for day-trippers. We’re also just off the Nieuwe Hoogstraat with all its specialty stores.’ KLOVENIERSBURGWAL 44 ANNA-NINA.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Van Gogh welcomes

Tickets online only

vangoghmuseum.com

Vincent van Gogh, Self-Portrait with Grey Felt Hat (detail), 1887, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)


What’s On

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda

36 38 39 40 44 46 49 50 51 52

Exhibitions Collections On Stage Festivals & Events Pop & Rock LGBTI & Pride Clubbing On Screen Classical Music Family Fun

Pride Amsterdam One of the biggest and best celebrations of LGBTI pride around the globe, Amsterdam’s Pride festival sees thousands of people pouring into the city to celebrate all aspects of the LGBTI community. With hundreds of festivals and a vibrant rainbow of events across many of the city’s venues, celebrating Pride is the perfect way to learn more about Amsterdam’s inclusive attitude and dedication to having a good time. In the traditional Canal Parade, watch out this year for the joint presentation of Amsterdam and New York - host of next year's World Pride event. 28 JULY–5 AUGUST, CITYWIDE

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

© PACE GALLERY

36 | TEXT: MEGAN WATERS

Studio Drift: Coded Nature Nature features new, previously unseen work by the artists, including the largest-ever installation of ‘Fragile Future’. This iconic light-sculpture series of dandelion heads individually applied to LED lights propelled the artists to international renown and occupies a unique place at the interface between tech art, performance and biodesign. UNTIL 26 AUGUST, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

PASTELS Foreign artists introduced the pastel portrait to the Netherlands in the 18th century, and it was later popularised by painters such as Charles Howard Hodges, Heinrich Siebert and Thérèse Schwartze. This exhibition showcases works commissioned by nobility, politicians and bankers.

ROBOTANICA After two successful indoor editions, this robotics exhibition is venturing into nature for an outdoor event. Presenting big and small objects and installations, artists, researchers and designers will all explore how robotics can positively contribute to the world’s damaged ecosystem.

UNTIL 4 JUNE, MUSEUM VAN LOON

1–15 JUNE, TOLHUISTUIN

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

© ARJEN BANGMA

T

he Stedelijk Museum presents the first solo exhibition of Dutch duo Studio Drift, who focus on the changing relationships between man, nature and technology. Founders Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta engage with topics like sustainability, the meaning of natural processes for today’s environment, and issues raised by augmented reality. In addition to their early designs, Coded

THE FLOOD REVISITED Nine distinguished and up-and-coming Dutch photographers took up the challenge of figuring out the importance of the story of the Biblical Flood in modern times. This exhibition poignantly presents the results. UNTIL 17 JUNE, BIJBELS MUSEUM


Why do people alter their bodies? That’s the question that the Body Art exhibition at Tropenmuseum (until 26 August) seeks to explore and answer.

37

Forever Young?

Dutch Design in the Age of Rembrandt

Silverware, furniture and picture frames with seemingly just-solidified shapes of the auricular style adorned the chicest interiors of the 17thcentury elite. This exhibition delves into the popular technique, which became the most important and sensational contribution that the Netherlands made to the development of interior art in Europe. The Dutch artists established the trend in England, Germany and France. The Rijksmuseum highlights this Dutch design in over 100 works from the Golden Age. 30 JUNE–16 SEPTEMBER, RIJKSMUSEUM

Streets of the World

In 2009, Dutch photojournalist Jeroen Swolfs set out to visit and photograph street life in every country in the world. The result: a photography project that not only highlights scale but also the vision of a photographer with a keen eye for culture. After seven years of travelling, it is time for seven years’ worth of incredible snaps. UNTIL 29 JULY, STREETS OF THE WORLD PHOTO MUSEUM, ZAANDAM

Photography not only chronicles the passage of time, impermanence, and the ageing of people and things, but photographs themselves are uniquely impermanent objects. This exhibition explores the relationship between photography and transience. Spread out over five galleries, the presentation spotlights photographs that portray impermanence and those that are showing signs of age. The exhibition also looks at photography that plays with the suggestion of ageing. UNTIL 12 AUGUST, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

FASHION CITIES AFRICA This exhibition explores urban fashion from the perspective of local designers, stylists, retailers, photographers and bloggers in Casablanca, Johannesburg, Lagos, Nairobi and the Netherlands, as well as creations by the Sartists, Said Mahrouf and the Maki Oh fashion label.

9 JUNE–2 SEPTEMBER, HUIS MARSEILLE

UNTIL 6 JANUARY 2019, TROPENMUSEUM

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

© SARAH WAISWA

© CHIKAKO WATANABE

advert

THE THIRD HOUSE OWNER In the run-up to Huis Marseille’s 20th anniversary in 2019, the museum is featuring exhibitions that focus on its collection and history. Japanese artist Chikako Watanabe finds inspiration from its characteristic canal-side home and earliest residents.


Collections

Peinture à haute tension (High Voltage Painting), 1965, Martial Raysse

38 | TEXT: JAYNE ROBINSON

Martial Raysse’s anonymous female with neon lips gazes steadily back at the viewer from her home at Stedelijk BASE: the museum’s bold new space for the most iconic works of its permanent collection. As a leading practitioner of Nouveau Réalisme – the French counterpart of American Pop Art – Raysse began introducing neon tubing into his work in the 1960s to make an ironic statement about the artificial character of advertising images. Raysse accentuates and advertises his subject’s mouth in cold fluorescence, flipping the female object of a thousand billboards in a way that first seduces and then warns. STEDELIJK MUSEUM

advert

OVAL ROOM The remarkable room at the heart of Haarlem’s Teylers Museum is the only authentic 18th-century museum interior in the world. The room, where time appears to have stood still, is home to the museum’s permanent collection of art and science exhibitions – including fossils, machines, paintings and historical books. TEYLERS MUSEUM

Rachmaninoff Symphonic Dances

Sat 9, Mon 11 June Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SATIRE OF TULIP MANIA, JAN BRUEGHEL (II), 1640 The Netherlands of the 17th century was gripped by Tulip Mania, a craze that saw entire fortunes made and lost. Jan Brueghel the Younger pokes fun at the trade by depicting monkeys dressed as tulip dealers. FRANS HALS MUSEUM


On Stage

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TEXT: MEGAN WATERS

| 39

Seth Meyers

Boom Chicago’s 25th-anniversary show features Emmy Award-winning comedian Seth Meyers and a special improvisation performance from the comedy club’s current cast and alumni. The star of Late Night with Seth Meyers started his international career at Amsterdam’s Boom Chicago, where he performed for years and wrote many of the club’s sketches. 14 JULY, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

Julidans

festival has been providing Dutch and international theatregoers with the best productions from around the world every year since 1947.

This festival for contemporary dance presents almost two weeks of groundbreaking performances from the great masters and impressive new talents from around the world. The annual festival also hosts an extensive programme of workshops, talks and presentations with the choreographers.

7 JUNE–1 JULY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

2–15 JULY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Holland Festival

T

he very best in opera, classical and world music, theatre, dance, ballet and art take over Amsterdam’s stages during the month of June. The country’s leading international performance arts

advert

LES CONTES D’HOFFMANN Reality and fantasy overlap in this opera fantastique in which Romantic poet E.T.A. Hoffmann drunkenly remembers the important women in his life. It’s performed in French with Dutch and English surtitles. 3 JUNE-2 JULY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

SIGN OF THE TIMES Ivo van Hove’s unique collage performance explores one of the most important social themes in contemporary society: identity. The performance travels through the history of theatre, literature and philosophy to address relevant identity questions.

SCENES FROM A MARRIAGE

2 JUNE, STADSSCHOUWBURG

— 17 — 25 AUG SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

AMSTERDAM

ITA.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

LESSONS IN LOVE AND VIOLENCE Inspired by the quick scene changes and the vulnerable, complicated characters of Elizabethan drama, George Benjamin’s opera centres around the question of whether the dangerous machinery of power leaves scope for love. 25 JUNE–5 JULY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET


Festivals & Events

© NIELS DE VRIES

40 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

Loveland

A

msterdam loves summer music festivals and they don’t come much bigger than the annual Loveland Festival, which takes place at the Sloterpark in the Nieuw-West district of the city each August. Held in the beautiful surroundings of Sloterpark on a peninsula jutting out into the Sloterplas Lake, this event boasts six stages of international stars and the freshest Dutch acts. Expect amazing production and elaborate staging, graffiti artists, delicious food and of course the unexpected. The Relax Island and Art Island complete the Loveland grounds, offering festivalgoers the chance to take it easy away from the beats.

11&12 AUGUST, SLOTERPARK, LOVELAND.NL

advert

TREK FESTIVAL Amstel Park transforms into a magical open-air restaurant where you can sample everything from sushi and Surinamese to vegetarian snacks and burgers. There’ll also be cocktails, theatre acts, a line-up of ’80s tunes and classic fairground rides.

OVER HET IJ FESTIVAL This festival boasts amazing theatre, poetry, improv, dance and delicious food. Specialising in location-specific theatre, you can catch one-off performances in the most unexpected of places. 13–22 JULY, NDSM WHARF, OVERHETIJ.NL

13–15 JULY, AMSTELPARK, FESTIVAL-TREK.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

41

Uitmarkt

This free festival is one of the country’s most popular cultural events and the traditional opening of the cultural season. It features more than 300 performances across 30 stages, from classical music to hip-hop. 25–27 AUGUST, OOSTERDOK, UITMARKT.NL

Grachtenfestival

Held annually on Amsterdam’s picturesque canals, the magnificent Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival) is one of the cultural highlights of summer in the city. Numerous classical music events take place on stages at special locations around the city’s waterways during this 10-day festival.

Awakenings

A

10–19 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS,

wakenings features more than 100 acts and DJs from across the spectrum of techno and house. As well as established international superstars, this year’s lineup features a host of up-and-coming talent. Eight futuristic stages transform the area into one huge audio arena.

GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL

30 JUNE–1 JULY, SPAARNWOUDE, AWAKENINGSFESTIVAL.NL/EN

MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL Milkshake is an event with a clear message about respect, freedom, love and tolerance. Each stage has its own defining character and acts. Expect everything from top DJs to drag acts and performance art (and loads of glitter). 28–29 JULY, WESTERPARK, MILKSHAKEFESTIVAL.COM

COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL This world-famous event features sensational stand-up comedy performances. Featuring top stand-up talent from around the world, each week two comedians perform across four nights. WED–SAT, 4 JULY–4 AUGUST, TOOMLER, COMEDYTRAIN.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

THE PARADE There’s something for everyone at the Parade – whether you’re a die-hard theatre devotee or just along for the ride. Expect to see unique theatre, dance, mime, and musical acts in open-air and secret locations.. 17 AUGUST–2 SEPTEMBER, MARTIN LUTHER KING PARK, DEPARADE.NL


LESSONS IN LOVE AND VIOLENCE — George Benjamin 25 juni - 5 juli

Museumhuis Bartolotti Experience life inside a luxurious canal house Visit us at: Herengracht 170 museumhuizen.nl


Festivals TEXT: LAYLA VAN DER GAAST

| 43

The largest city festival in Europe

W

eMakeThe.City, the festival that makes cities better, celebrates its first edition from 20 to 24 June. Join a five-day-long celebration of urban life in the Amsterdam Area, which includes urban talks, conferences, workshops, expeditions, parties and special events. Civil servants, thinkers, entrepreneurs, creatives and citizens will get together to present solutions for the city of the future. All over the world, cities and surrounding areas are rapidly expanding; in 2050, around 70% of the world’s population will live in urban areas. This growth comes with a lot of challenges concerning climate, safety, affordable housing, health and diversity. WeMakeThe.City invites all to help search for answers. Together, we’ll

make the city even better. Over 600 (inter)national speakers will share their views and knowledge, and about 150 different locations will join their efforts to host themed conferences and urban talks, 50 workshops, 30 city expeditions, 15 special events, 10 exhibitions and much more. Highlights include a talk by Kate Raworth, renowned for her theories on the Doughnut Economics – as well as fashion event WeMake M-ODE. Many inspiring and innovative initiatives open their doors to the public; visit the former citizens’ orphanage, designed by Aldo van Eyck, artist community Nieuw en Meer, the sustainable gardens in Nieuw-West, city breweries and urban gardens. There will

also be architectural tours, a tour of the city’s green roofs and a sustainable fashion show at Bos en Lommerplein – as well as city expeditions through the different neighbourhoods, including the Zuidas business area. WeMakeThe.City was initiated by the City of Amsterdam, Amsterdam Economic Board, Pakhuis de Zwijger, Waag Society, Amsterdam Smart City and AMS Institute. The founding partners are Rabobank Amsterdam, Nuon and ABN AMRO. 20–24 JUNE, VARIOUS LOCATIONS, WEMAKETHE.CITY

APPELSAP FRESH MUSIC FESTIVAL For one Saturday every August, Appelsap sets up shop in the usually peaceful Flevopark. At the popular music fest, top international and Dutch hip-hop artists keep it fresh alongside the best of the local electronic, rap and soul scenes.

‘My pick for this summer is Mysteryland. The festival is as old as Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) and it constantly evolves and changes. They were one of the first festivals that put on a big event at such a professional level. I am looking forINSIDER TIP ward to wandering around and enjoying the great atmosphere there, it really is unique.’

11 AUGUST, FLEVOPARK, APPELSAP.NET

Richard Zijlma, ADE Director

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

44 | TEXT: RHYS ELLIOT AND ALEX HIBBERT

Justin Timberlake

alt-J

From pop idol to Hollywood star, Timberlake is a man of many talents. But in recent years, he’s taken a step back from his other ventures to focus on his music – and the result might surprise you. His latest album came out of left field, with some folk and country influences to complement the usual pop, R&B and neo-soul. Expect tried-and-tested anthems like ‘Cry Me a River’.

Since their Mercury Prize-winning debut album An Awesome Wave, this British indie-pop band have staked their claim as one of the world’s most distinctive and forward-thinking rock groups. Live, they can really rock, and the Amsterdamse Bos seems also to suit their more idiosyncratic leanings – including songs built on odd tribal chants, string arrangements and chamber woodwinds.

15 JULY & 25 AUGUST, ZIGGO DOME

26 & 27 AUGUST, AMSTERDAMSE BOS THEATRE

Bullet for My Valentine

This Welsh metal band is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. What better way to mark two decades of awesomeness than a massive European tour? BFMV’s sound combines the harsh vocals and blistering riffs of thrash metal with the catchy choruses of pop. Not enough metal for you? Also playing are Asking Alexandria, Crossfaith and DED.

Jack White

Founding member of The White Stripes, The Raconteurs and The Dead Weather visits Amsterdam as part of his first tour in almost four years. Supporting his third solo album Boarding House Reach, the Detroit provocateur flits between funk, rock, rap and EDM-influenced sounds with ease. 2 JULY, AFAS LIVE

12 JUNE, MELKWEG

advert

advert

BOB REYNOLDS GROUP This show sees tenor saxophonist Bob Reynolds stepping out of the shadow of crowd-pullers such as Snarky Puppy, Willie Nelson and John Mayer. Reynolds and his crew’s contemporary jazz is celebrated for its ability to be simultaneously calming, engaging and masterful.

JAY-Z AND BEYONCÉ The music world’s biggest power couple last toured together in 2014 to promote Beyoncé’s self-titled album and Jay-Z’s Magna Carta Holy Grail, but since then their fame, family and fortune has only got bigger. Expect fireworks, screams and a spectacle to remember.

2 JUNE, BIMHUIS

19 & 20 JUNE, AMSTERDAM ARENA

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Ever

y Frida y morn ing from 10:00 – 13:00

Alkmaar - oldest cheese market, just outside Amsterdam Great photo opportunities with cheese, traditional cheese girls and bearers. Evening markets also available during the peak season. WWW.VISITALKMAAR.COM


© KIT T WOODL AND

| 45 45

The Real McKenzies

© RONY ALWIN

Combining tartan kilts with bomber jackets, this Canadian band specialises in Celtic punk, so get ready for bagpipe melodies and catchy guitar riffs in equal measure. The band’s signature fusion of punk and folk is exemplified by last year’s record Two Devils Will Talk. 22 AUGUST, MELKWEG

Wolfmother

Lenny Kravitz

Whether you’re 16 or 60, you’ve undoubtedly heard of Lenny Kravitz. His retro sound – incorporating elements of blues, rock, reggae and more – has helped the Grammy Award-winning songster win over fans all around the world. Expect all the crowd-pleasing classics at this show – as well as some new favourite tracks from this year’s Raise Vibration. Just don’t expect him to take off those now-iconic shades.

After a massive show last year, Australia’s coolest hard rockers are again hitting the stage in Amsterdam. While they’re mostly known for their 2005 hit single ‘Woman’, the band’s maintained marriage of modern and classic rock has ensured their continued relevance. And given the raw passion of 2016’s Victorious, these Aussies are bound to stay in musical orbit for years to come. 24 JULY, MELKWEG

24 JUNE, ZIGGO DOME

26/11

PAUL SIMON Legendary musician Paul Simon visits Amsterdam as part of his final Homeward Bound tour. This is the culmination of a career that began in the early ’60s and saw him release a string of iconic albums as a solo artist and as duo, Simon & Garfunkel. 7 & 8 JULY, ZIGGO DOME

Ed Sheeran

T

he British ginger song factory continues his mission to conquer the world with music as he returns to Amsterdam as part of his Divide world tour. He’s smashed records across the globe and become the world’s biggest male pop star since releasing his debut album in 2012, so it’s unsurprising that he’s playing two dates at the pretty gigantic Amsterdam ArenA. If his headlining slot at Glastonbury festival taught us anything, it’s that Ed isn’t shy when it comes to these epic venues.

28 & 29 JUNE, AMSTERDAM ARENA

advert

ROMAN TRAGEDIES 15 – 21 JUN SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

AIRWAYS Who said boybands were out of fashion? Not UKbased group Airways, who combine the instruments and intensity of indie with the banter and boisterousness of boybands. Poppy one minute and riffing the next, these boys are the best of both worlds.

EILEN JEWELL Jewell’s belting brew of Americana, blues and honky-tonk is as endearing as it is enduring, which is why she’s released an impressive seven albums already. She and her touring band are best seen in small, intimate venues, making this show quite the gem.

26 JULY, SUGARFACTORY

12 AUGUST, BITTERZOET

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


LGBTI

Each summer, Amsterdam’s Zeedijk takes a jaunt through its feudal past on Hartjesdag (Day of Hearts, 20 August). Originally a medieval national holiday, this tradition has since grown into a carnival-like event.

46 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

Superball

After three successful editions, Superball is back out of the closet for another fun-filled competition of drag queens, oddities, devilish dancers and everything in between. It’s the biggest drag battle in Europe, featuring a

Blame It on Bianca Del Rio

S

harp, sassy and in stilettos, this American drag queen, comedian and costume designer rose to fame after being crowned the winner of RuPaul’s Drag Race season six. The self-proclaimed ‘clown in a gown’ is

known for her foul mouth and riotously irreverent quips. After completely selling out the debut of this tour at last year’s Amsterdam Pride, Bianca Del Rio is back and brasher than ever.

lip-sync challenge, a dance-off and – of course – a catwalk round. Gentlemen, start your engines, and may the best woman win.

3 AUGUST, THEATER AMSTERDAM

7 JULY, PARADISO

advert

PATHÉ GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special LGBTI movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages. Check the Pathé website (pathe.nl/event/ gaynight) for more information.

(Z)ONDERBROEK Drop all your pretences and take off your trousers to dance at Club Church in Amsterdam. The only rule is it’s underwear or nothing, which means briefs and jocks, swim briefs, boxers, sports shorts or nude. EVERY FRIDAY & FIRST SAT. OF THE MONTH, CLUB CHURCH

EVERY FIRST WEDNESDAY

GETTO GLAM VARIETY SHOW The legendary Getto Glam Variety Show features songs, interpretive dance, the most fabulous games of bingo you’ve ever experienced and interactive napkin tossing (don’t ask). All hosted by the amazing Erin Amazia Tasmania, Didi Licious and Victoria False. E V E R Y T H U R S DAY, G E T TO

OF THE MONTH, PATHÉ DE MUNT

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Pride

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TEST: ALEX HIBBERT AND RHYS ELLIOT

47

Pride Park

To help launch Amsterdam’s Pride celebrations, the Vondelpark is filled with a range of colourful LGBTI activities. As well as a rainbow market filled with fabulous mementos, there are sports clinics, an all-women football tournament, and a dedicated area for kids to enjoy games. At the heart of the festival is the Open-Air Theatre, offering performances from artists such as Shary-An, Lois Lane, and Anita Meyer. 28 JULY, VONDELPARK

INSIDER TIP Amber ‘The Ambiance’ Vineyard, Founder of The House of Vineyard

Pride Parade

The undoubted highlight of Amsterdam’s Pride celebrations, the annual Canal Parade sees dozens of brilliantly decorated barges make their way around the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Canal Ring. Along the 6km route, hundreds of thousands of spectators line the waterways to enjoy the Dutch sun, soak up the amazing atmosphere and enjoy the onboard DJs, show-stopping themes and sea of pink. Turn up early to ensure you get a good vantage point to enjoy all the action – either on one of the bridges along the route, alongside the canals, or even from a boat! 4 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

‘Pink Kwaku (22 July) is a celebration of the black LGBTQ community’s queerness and freedom. My #1 place to be, Milkshake (28 July) is one of the world’s largest open-minded festivals at Amsterdam’s Westerpark, and I host the annual ball at the House of Vineyard Stage. You can also find us at Pussy Wagon (29 July) at Club NYX, with three rooms of excitement that will satisfy all your LGBTQ needs.’

advert

PRIDE WALK Pride starts with a march celebrating the world’s LGBTI communities. Join to spread love and to support people living in one of the many countries where being gay is still a criminal offence. It begins at the Homomonument on Westermarkt and ends at the Vondelpark.

PRIDE STREET PARTIES In Pride’s closing weekend, dozens of street parties and open-air events take place across the city. As well as Dam Square’s Pride main stage, there are parties around Zeedijk, Spuistraat, Reguliersdwarsstraat, the Homomonument and the Amstel.

28 JULY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

LOCATIONS

3–5 AUGUST, VARIOUS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


© Matthias Horn

Adventurous concert, from traditional Syrian music to energetic jazz 8 – 9 June, Royal Theatre Carré

Jacques Offenbach

Russian classic as a sparkling, comic 1970s and 1980s radio show, with a lot of music 8 – 10 June, Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam Instatllation view at the Art Institute of Chicago. Courtesy Steve McQueen, Thomas Dane Gallery and Marian Goodman Gallery

LES CONTES D’HOFFMANN —

ANNA KARENINA... Clemens Sienknecht, Barbara Bürk, Deutsches Schauspielhaus Hamburg

3 juni - 2 juli

CROWD Gisèle Vienne

’90 rave-dance in slow motion 27 – 28 June, Stadsschouwburg

HOLLAND FESTIVAL PROMS 23 June, Het Concertgebouw five concerts on one day € 11 per concert, with a.o.

SOMETIME VOICES Radio Pilharmonic Orchestra, Netherlands Radio Choir Various works by George Benjamin

© by courtesy of Ensemble Rhoum El Bakkali

METROPOLE ORKEST & SOLOISTS OF THE SYRIAN BIG BAND Dima Orsho, Kinan Azmeh, a.o. Special guest: Eric Vloeimans

© Estelle Hanaia

© Gemma van der Heyden/ JazzNu

international performing arts amsterdam 7 june – 1 july 2018

JALASAT ROUHIYA Ensemble Rhoum El Bakkali, Amsterdams Andalusisch Orkest, Orchestre Temsamani Morrocan hadra (a Sufi ritual) with rousing Arab-Andalusian rhythms

END CREDITS Steve McQueen

© Yohanne Lamoulère/Picturetank

Video installation shows the perverse nature of political discrimination and persecution 9 – 28 June, Loods 6

STADIUM Mohamed El Khatib

Documentary theatre with and about supporters of the French football club RC de Lens 16 – 17 June, Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam Adv Holland Festival - iAmsterdam.indd 1

TRIBUTE TO BLACKSTAR s t a r g a z e, Anna Calvi, Soap&Skin, Laetitia Sadier A tribute to David Bowie

ELECTRO SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA Colin Benders

Unprecedented music by a revolutionary synthesizer orchestra full programme and tickets: hollandfestival.nl

3-5-2018 16:23:01


Techno Tuesdays deliver a weekly dose of raving at the Melkweg; every Tuesday, locals and visitors alike celebrate life and flaunt their techno appreciation.

TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT |

49

Mysteryland

M

Dekmantel

ysteryland, the world’s longestrunning electronic music festival, is a pioneer in dance music, having helped launch the careers of many DJs since its first event in 1993. Featuring more than 250 DJs and live acts on 16 futuristic stages, Mysteryland should be on the bucket list of any EDM lover.

T

his dance festival takes place in the beautiful surroundings of the Amsterdamse Bos and venues along the banks of the River IJ. The programme boasts a lineup of genre-bending live performances and sets from the world’s biggest DJs and hottest emerging talents in everything from techno to electro. Standouts on this year’s roster include Orbital, Thundercat and Jamie xx. This year marks the introduction of the UFO stage, featuring darker, more underground sounds.

24–26 AUGUST, HAARLEMERMEER, MYSTERYLAND.NL

1–5 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS, DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.COM

EVERY SATURDAY, MELKWEG

© ANNE L AKEMAN

advert

ENCORE Amsterdam’s premier hiphop and R&B night plays everything from old-school tracks to the newest beats around. Every Saturday, expect to hear everything from classic hits to newer tracks – as well as some incredible live performances.

WICKED JAZZ SOUNDS If you’ve ever fancied a club night that fuses dance music and jazz, look no further than Wicked Jazz Sounds. Every Sunday, DJs and musicians join forces to create a dance-inducing mix of jazz, hip-hop, funk and more. EVERY SUNDAY, SUGARFACTORY

NOODLANDING! With an eclectic mix of hip-hop, rock, dance and electro, Noodlanding! is the city’s longest-running alternative dance night. Having featured special guests Girltalk, Z-Trip and Cut Copy in the past, it’s the perfect night for people looking to start their weekend early. EVERY THURSDAY, PARADISO

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


On Screen

‘May the force be with you’

50 | TEXT: RHYS ELLIOT

World Cinema Amsterdam This week-long festival gives film fans a chance to see the world through the lens of talented independent filmmakers from across the globe: Latin America, Asia, Africa and beyond. It’s much more than films,

Star Wars: Live in Concert

W

hether you grew up with the original trilogy, the prequel trilogy or you’re currently experiencing the films for the first time with Disney’s trilogy, Star Wars’ epic score is unmistakable. Relive the music from a

long time ago in a galaxy far, far away with this concert from the Antwerp Symphony Orchestra, who’ll be playing along to a screening of A New Hope. 4–7 JULY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Alex van Warmerdam

Bijlmerbios

© HANS MOOREN

Alex van Warmerdam is a man of many talents: filmmaker, artist, playwright, actor – he’s done it all. He’s putting all that experience into one exhibition. We won’t give any spoilers here, but among the pieces on show are a book that turns its own pages and an unusual aquarium. 10 JUNE–2 SEPTEMBER, EYE FILMMUSEUM

Catch an outdoor film screening on a (hopefully) sunny day at this unique event, which brings three nights of movies to a metro station. The flicks are projected under the tunnel tracks, and you need to bring your own seat (BYO…S?), making these ragtag screenings quite the experience. 25–27 AUGUST, KRAAIENNEST METRO STATION

though: expect live music, DJs, Q&A sessions and more. Looking for a free film? Look no further than the openair screenings at the Vondelpark and Marie Heinekenplein. 7-17 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

advert

advert

AMSTERDAM SPANISH FILM FESTIVAL The clue’s in the name, but this film festival highlights and promotes cinema not just from Spain but also from Spanish-speaking Latin America. As well as mainstream Spanish cinema, get ready for some truly experimental and artistic films from the regions.

INTERNATIONAL FILMMAKER FESTIVAL Most film festivals are aimed solely at viewers, but not this one: whether you’re a filmmaker, an industry specialist or just a regular Joe, there’s something for everyone. Expect film premieres, director Q&As, award ceremonies and networking events.

29 MAY – 3 JUNE, PATHÉ TUSCHINSKI

11–18 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

One of the oldest houses of Holland www.czaarpeterhuisje.nl


Classical Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra:

TEXT: RHYS ELLIOT | 51

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Britten and Rachmaninoff This classical-music extravaganza is an annual highlight on Amsterdam’s cultural agenda. The Netherlands’ largest open-air classical concert draws in music fans from across the globe. And for good reason: the stunning backdrop of the Prinsengracht is something truly special. Whether you’re watching from the canal-side or from the water itself, there’s something for all. And in addition to the regular show, there’s a children’s concert and live pop music.

V

eteran UK conductor Edward Gardner OBE and Dutch violinist Simone Lamsma join the enchanting Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra. Thanks to her polished and emotive performances – as well as her captivating personality – Lamsma has been turning heads lately, and Gardner’s masterful conducting never fails to impress. Watch in awe as they tackle works by Benjamin Britten and Sergei Rachmaninoff.

© OT TO VAN DEN TOORN

Prinsengracht Concert

9 & 11 JUNE, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Beethoven’s Symphony No. 3, Ravel and Adams One of Beethoven’s most celebrated pieces takes centre stage in this concert – as well as works by French classical icon Maurice Ravel and contemporary composer John Adams. Pianist Nicholas Angelich and the National Orchestra of Belgium will take the stage, led by Hugh Wolff. 25 JULY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

18 AUGUST, PRINSENGRACHT

advert

DEAR ESTHER Cult video game Dear Esther is innovative and emblematic – just like its soundtrack. This performance, part of Holland Festival, features a live orchestral rendition of Jessica Curry’s captivating score for the game – all while the game itself is played on stage.

CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM All the majesty and impressiveness of an orchestra, with none of the instruments – that’s Cappella Amsterdam. This vocals-only performance of Orlande de Lassus’ 1584 Psalmi Davidis Poenitentiales never fails to amaze and affect. 3 JUNE, MUZIEKGEBOUW

24 JUNE, MUZIEKGEBOUW

AAN 'T IJ

AAN 'T IJ

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SMALL SOULS

— 23 — 31 AUG SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL


For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

52 | TEXT: MEGAN WATERS

Fort Island Pampus

Built in the 19th century, this island fort sits on a man-made island in the middle of the IJmeer Lake. Although armed with large-calibre guns and a permanent garrison of 200 men, this UNESCO World Heritage Site never saw any action, but remnants of the battery remain. There are historical artefacts to discover all over the island – as well as audio tours and an extensive events calendar. OPEN TUESDAY–SUNDAY, FORT ISLAND PAMPUS

We are the Future

ARTIS ZOOmeravonden very Saturday evening throughout June, July and August, ARTIS Zoo hosts their ZOOmeravonden – a play on the Dutch for ‘summer evenings’ – celebration. The zoo will stay open until sunset, so visitors can discover what the animals get up to after hours. Well-known Dutch musicians take to the bandstand for special musical performances, while visitors can take part in workshops, guided tours and kids’ activities. Picnics and barbecued delicacies are available to eat on the lawn. With zookeepers and animal carers on hand to share the secrets of the creatures, it’s the perfect way to discover more about nocturnal species and see a different side of your favourite animals.

This is the only under-18s music festival in the Netherlands featuring top Dutch and international DJs and artists. It’s an opportunity for young music lovers to enjoy and discover music in a safe environment, and it hosts special meetand-greet areas to connect with music heroes. This year’s line-up includes Lil Kleine, Jonna Fraser, Mike Williams and more.

2 JUNE–25 AUGUST, PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38–40

13 JULY, AFAS LIVE

E

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR Created for children aged 6 to 13, this award-winning museum is part of the renowned Tropenmuseum. The interactive exhibits introduce children to non-Western cultures in a playful way to spark their curiosity, while special activities and workshops cover art, music and dance. OPEN TUESDAY–SUNDAY, LINNAEUSSTRAAT 2

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

ELECTRIC TRAM LINE MUSEUM Established in 1975, this museum features restored and fully functioning electric trams from around Europe that date back to the 20th century. Visitors can enjoy twice-daily vintage tram rides on a 7km-long tramway from Amsterdam to Amstelveen. © EMA

OPEN DAILY, WESTERPARK

© IVAR PEL

WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore nature, dig in the dirt, climb trees, play in the sand, raft across streams, and check out the frogs and bugs. A great afternoon out for the kids.

OPEN SUNDAYS, AMTELVEENSEWEG 264


53

Madame Tussauds: Marvel Avengers

Amsterdam Dungeon

Five hundred years of Amsterdam’s darkest history is brought to life with 12 shows and 10 actors in one terrifying – and hilarious – experience. Walk through the vaults of the dungeon with theatrical actors, special effects, stages, and scenes to see, smell, listen and be afraid.

Step into an immersive universe and join forces with Marvel Comics’ biggest superheroes to be a hero for one day. See if you have what it takes to lift the hammer of Thor, or fight side by side with Captain America to defeat his enemies. Suitable for all ages, nothing is what it seems during this unique 3D experience. This is your chance to take a selfie with your favourite superhero!

OPEN DAILY, ROKIN 78

NEMO Science Museum NEMO introduces young and old to the fascinating world of science and technology through five floors crammed full of exhibitions, experiments, demonstrations and workshops. Through hands-on exploration, learn about the basic principles of science and technology, as well as phenomena such as light and gravity.

OPEN DAILY, DAM 20

Fun Forest Climbing Park

© NEMO

This high-rope adventure park is ideal for kids’ parties, company team-building or just a fun summer day out. Choose from two courses where children can climb independently, host a party on a regular route or combine your visit with a meeting, lunch or barbecue. Channel your inner monkey and move through the trees on ropes, ladders, bridges, zip lines and different climbing elements on nine courses ranging from 4 to 15 metres.

OPEN DAILY, OOSTERDOK 2

Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre

Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from June through September, the Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre presents a programme packed with festivals, dance, cabaret, children’s theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. Bring a picnic and enjoy!

UNTIL NOVEMBER, BOSBAANWEG 3

UNTIL 8 SEPTEMBER, VONDELPARK

OPEN DAILY, SNEEUWBALWEG 5

advert

advert

Cruises with Authentic Amsterdam Party Ship

www.msdejordaan.nl

© MIKE BINK

26/11

OUTDOOR SWIMMING The Nooderparkbad indoor and outdoor swimming pool complex offers fun for the entire family. You can swim laps, take lessons or participate in classes, and there are special times of day designated for kids and families.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT Boasting drawbridges, towers and moats, this 700-year-old fortress could easily be mistaken for a Disney film set. From majestic gardens, walking and guided tours, a falconry and kids’ treasure hunts, this magical castle has something for all ages. OPEN DAILY, HERENGRACHT 1, MUIDEN


ARTIS SUMMER NIGHTS


City Guide

56 Noord 63 Oost 65 West 67 Zuid 69 Centre

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

Skatecafé

Epitomising Amsterdam Noord's moment of cool is the Skatecafé, an indoor skateboarding ramp in the Hamerkwartier. It’s also got a great atmosphere, with its people-pleasing music, myriad hanging plants, Barbie-pink chairs, and a menu with something for everyone. Bring your board and your appetite. GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 42 SKATECAFE.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Noord

56 | text: TEXT Karin AND Engelbrecht PHOTOS: MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Noorderpark

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


The origami-like, frog-shaped home of the EYE Filmmuseum. As much a sculpture as a building, the visually stunning construction was designed by Delugan Meissl Architects.

57

The Other Side The thriving North has its own personality – rebellious and bohemian – and all it takes is a ferry ride. Growing, growing, grown

Amsterdam Noord (North), a quick ferry trip from Central Station, is the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, where refurbished warehouses, village-like suburbia and giant swathes of nature cohabit peacefully. But don’t let the tranquillity fool you: Noord is one of the fastest-growing neighbourhoods in Amsterdam, thriving on its newfound popularity and unexplored real estate. Historically, there wasn’t much to be found there but the gallows where prisoners were executed – somewhat mercifully hanged while admiring the view across the River IJ. But, located right across the Amsterdam Harbour, the area became strategic during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, and it quickly grew into

a substantial industrial, shipbuilding district where housing also spread like wildfire to accommodate its working class population.

Bastion of culture

Today, the area that lies closest to the centre is thriving – not only in culture and entertainment, but also in rapid-fire construction. Noord has become prized real estate; hence the rows of cranes devouring the skyline. The urban sprawl is spreading its tentacles outwards. Right across from Central Station stand its most peculiar architectural feats. The white, origami-like construction houses the EYE Filmmuseum, which not only boasts a rich programme of screenings and exhibitions dedicated to the seventh art, but also a café and restaurant

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

INSIDER TIP

‘I love Noord. I take the boat and leave the busy city behind to find this little village where there’s so much going on – artists, restaurants, cafés.’ Elisa Achterberg (33), works in the circular economy


Noord

58 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL with a sprawling terrace with unrivalled views over the river. The old Shell headquarters have become the A’DAM Tower, which houses so much entertainment (hotels, clubs, restaurants and a 360-degree observation deck) that you could spend an entire day there without getting bored. Westward, on post-industrial NDSM Wharf, you’ll find a plethora of hotspots such as Pllek, IJ-Hallen and Noorderlicht, but also many of the city’s coolest festivals, and urban beaches galore to make the most of Amsterdam’s sunnier days. Along the banks of the River IJ, on Noordwal, lie great warehouses refurbished into bright, beautiful cafés that have become staples of Amsterdam’s gastronomy. Alternatively, go east: rent a bike and spend a day down the Waterland rabbit hole, pedalling through the beautiful Zuiderzee region to small villages such as Nieuwendam and Broek in Waterland.

Head-spinning diversity

Nowhere else in Amsterdam can you find such a wide variety of architecture, from quaint and classic to ultra-modern with detours to gritty industrial. Noord’s population is equally diverse, as born-and-bred working-class Northerners (famously loyal to their homeland) now count young artists, baristas and entrepreneurs as their new neighbours, as well as immigrant families who settle in the modern housing that sprouts every day at lightning speed. Nowhere else can you enjoy such a range of activities, as all it takes is a (free and quick) ride on the ferry to spend the day biking around meadows and polders, strolling through traditional fishing villages, getting lost in corn mazes; or enjoying Noord’s hipster flair with a cup of coffee while ship-spotting on the banks of the IJ, catching an old film, admiring a modern art exhibit, savouring mounds of fresh seafood, and dancing the night away. Why even cross the river back again?

INSIDER TIP

‘Noorderpark is much quieter than the parks in the centre. I walk here every day, I take pictures, it’s good for my health, good for my spirit.’ Wim de Groot (72), photographer

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

NDSM Noordwal

On a sunny day, hop on the ferry from behind Central Station to IJPlein to enjoy a walk along Noordwal, which offers stunning views over the river. The pier is lined with giant former shipping warehouses that have been refurbished to house some of the Noord’s most stunning restaurants and terraces, such as Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant. Exhibitions, concept shops and cafés often pop up on the Noordwal during the summer months.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

With its slapdash flair, NDSM is a thriving cultural Mecca that has laid claim to the city’s most electrifying festivals, as well as being home to cafés and restaurants with some jaw-dropping postmodern architecture. Its cavernous shipbuilding warehouses house art galleries, parties and vintage markets like IJ-Hallen, the largest flea market in Europe.


© BARBARA VAN DEN BERG / SALT YSTOCK

59

Tolhuistuin

A thriving cultural centre with a gallery, concert hall and dance studios, Tolhuistuin is also home to popular café-restaurant THT with its delicious yet affordable menu and sprawling terrace. Music is courtesy of pop temple Paradiso, the cultural programming is extensive (think lindyhop classes and theatre festivals), plus it has a beautiful garden. IJPROMENADE 2 TOLHUISTUIN.NL

Noorderpark

Noord is the greenest area of Amsterdam, spreading its way up to Waterland’s farms. But even if you’re not up to the bike ride all the way to Het Twiske (a gorgeous green haven packed full of activities), you can still find peace and tranquillity at Noorderpark, where you’ll enjoy the local flora and fauna but also cosy eateries and a wide programme of events that range from yoga meet-ups and hip-hop classes to summer fairs and festivals. NOORDERPARK.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Noord

60 | THE BOHEMIAN REBELOTTE PEZÉ

Pek & Kleren

This harmoniously, enticingly designed shop is a treasure trove of trendy, unique fashions which aren’t limited to clothing but also include accessories, home decor, and even plants. With such a selection of original brands, from Pig & Hen (men) and MBYM (women) to Urban Nature Culture potteries, House Doctor vases and Madam Stoltz lamps, this is a one-stop chic shop. VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 56-58 PEK-EN-KLEREN.NL

Café de Ceuvel

A wild-child, urban-hippie riverside hangout located in a former shipyard, De Ceuvel has earned its immense popularity by simply doing things the way we want them: fun, relaxed and plentiful. The green, sustainable kitchen delivers delicious, fresh and affordable fare but you’ll also go for Ceuvel’s extensive cultural agenda that includes concerts, pop-up shops, film screenings and parties. KORTE PAPAVERWEG 2-6 DECEUVEL.NL

Pllek

With a man-made urban beach where hip Amsterdammers flock to bask in the sun, this hotspot never stops. DJs, campfires, movie nights, and lots of happy faces soaking up the alternative vibes and cool drinks. The food is fresh and delicious, just as enjoyable on their outdoor picnic tables as it is in the cosy armchairs behind their giant bay window. TT. NEVERITAWEG 59 PLLEK.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


ADV AMSTERDAM MARKETING ROUTES

Follow our routes to discover the best of Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/routes


ADVERTORIAL

A voyage of cultural discovery

L

Skip the lines and head straight to one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful hidden gems, the Tropenmuseum, where a voyage of discovery through world cultures awaits.

ocated next to the leafy Oosterpark, the museum is housed in one of the most impressive buildings in the Netherlands, off the beaten track and away from the tourists in Amsterdam’s hip east neighbourhood. The artworks and artefacts from all over the world are guaranteed to spark your curiosity about the enormous cultural diversity that enriches our planet. The fresh and contemporary exhibitions tell stories about humankind across the globe and show that, despite our cultural differences, we’re essentially all the same: human. The museum has a lot to offer

and much to explore, but two unmissable exhibitions this summer include Body Art and Fashion Cities Africa.

Body Art

Body Art is an exhibition about body decorations in the broadest sense: from make-up and tattoos, to implants under the skin and surgical alterations. Through the ages and across cultures. The key question we seek to answer is: why do people alter their bodies?

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Fashion Cities

In Fashion Cities Africa, visitors discover the lively and diverse fashion scenes that shake up what people wear, through the eyes of fashion experts from Casablanca, Johannesburg, Lagos, Nairobi and the Netherlands.

Tropenmuseum

Museum of world cultures Linnaeusstraat 2, Amsterdam. • The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm from Tuesday to Sunday. • Admission costs €8 for children and students, €15 for adults, and is free with the I amsterdam City Card • For more details, visit tropenmuseum.nl


Oost

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

CULTURAL MELTING POT

The embodiment of Amsterdam’s multicultural fame, Oost bangs to the beat of its own colourful drum.

63

Melting Pot

O

ost (East) is the epitome of Amsterdam’s incredible diversity; and not only in population, but also in its huge variety of architecture – from the 19th-century residential areas of Oud-Oost (Old East) to the awe-inspiring feats of modernity on the Eastern Docklands. Its cultural offerings are also lively and diverse: home to the Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, and Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, the temple of modern classical and jazz music. It thrives on its multi-disciplinary venues, such as sustainability nerve centre Pakhuis de Zwijger, Mecca of storytelling Mezrab, and the Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy. Last but not least, it’s not short on cafés, bars and restaurants.

Harbour Club

INSIDER TIP

‘Zeeburg used to be a dangerous neighbourhood, but now people want to live here. The islands are booming, growing more vibrant over the years with lots of cafés and shops.’

The Harbour Club’s splendid views over the piers can be enjoyed from the terrace, but the monumental interior of this warehouse-sized restaurant sports a 16-metre long mural by Neo-pop artist Selwyn Senatori, which is worth a detour. The menu is perfect for pescatarians. CRUQUIUSWEG 67 THEHARBOURCLUB.COM/ AMSTERDAM

Canvas

Perched high up on the seventh floor of what could be a Soviet-era blockhouse, Canvas can brag about more than its terrific terrace with a sprawling view of Amsterdam. This trendy café-bar-restaurant-artist coop is open from breakfast (7:00) until the wee cocktail hours (4:00), but it’s most famous for its fab indie clubbing nights.

Lisa Klaverstijn and Hilde Harshagen (27), photo editors for Volkskrant

WIBAUTSTRAAT 150 CANVAS7.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE



West

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

HIPSTER HEAVEN

65

INSIDER TIP

‘So many independent designer shops have opened in Oud-West in recent years, it feels like a friendly and less crowded extension of the Nine Streets.’ Sara Wever (26), works in hospitality

Things I Like Things I Love

Heaven-on-earth for lovers of new and vintage clothing and trendy accessories, these little shops of wonders (so popular they have spread across the city like wildfire) also carry jewellery, home décor and plants. Their selection includes must-haves plus unique items you never knew you needed but can’t live without.

A traditionally residential West now thrives on its multicultural and independent flair.

1E CONSTANTIJN HUYGENSSTRAAT 25-27, JAN EVERTSENSTRAAT 106 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM

Rebirth

O

riginally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how much Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside of the Canal Belt. Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories in peaceful Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed. Today, the Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses overflowing with entertainment venues, pop-up shops, and hip cafés and eateries. In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze with the development of De Hallen Quarter, home to the gourmet Foodhallen, indie cultural venues, and vintage or designer shops. As the area’s popularity redefines the limits of what feels like the city’s centre, the tentacles of this rebirth continue to spread outwards. BoLo and De Baarsjes harbour marvels of Amsterdamse School architecture, and even the forgotten Nieuw-West (New West) – where the charm of Amsterdam’s centre fades into blocks of row-housing development – cultivates its multicultural heritage with a renewed social soul and worldly flair.

OT301

This non-profit is a fabulous, independent free-for-all of emerging creativity. The space offers a programme that’s not only rich in concerts, dance and every other kind of performance under the sun, but also art exhibits, workshops and film screenings. They host a small bookshop and a vegan kitchen, and they hire out studio space to artists, lecturers and musicians. OVERTOOM 301, OT301.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


ADVERTORIAL

Escape the Forest of the Dead... Imagine: darkness in the forest… The smell of decay… The sound of a black crow…A rat scuttles past… Corpses hang from tree branches… their staring eyes catch the moonlight… How do you escape?

I

n its latest show, the Amsterdam Dungeon takes you on a journey to the Forest of the Dead: a (scarily) realistic replica of the city’s gallows field centuries ago. This was where murderers and thieves would be put to death and left on display as a stark reminder of

architecture Art & Social ideals

Come and admire

Open from tuesday to sunday; 11 - 17 hours

A guided tour

at 3 pm in English

www.hetschip.nl

your fate if you were ever to commit a crime. The corpses were left hanging, with symbols of their crimes on display above their heads. A murderer would have his murder weapon, for example, and a woman who had killed her child a wooden doll nailed up above her head. But this gallows field wasn’t somewhere to avoid – it was an attraction. Not only to onlookers wanting to see the action, but to local vermin ready to feast on the flesh of the carcasses.

Your mission? To get out alive. Should you choose to accept it, visit thedungeons.com/Amsterdam for tickets and information.


Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

The repository of the city’s classical culture and luxury shopping.

67

The Golden Child

T

he crown jewel of Zuid (South) is the Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art and history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCO); and right across the street, the Royal Concertgebouw. Just off Museumplein lies Oud-Zuid (Old South), a posh neighbourhood with such a privileged flair that the locals have nicknamed it ‘the reservation’. Luxury designer shopping is Old South’s main sex appeal, from flashy P.C. Hooftstraat to classy Willemsparkweg. Zuid also has its own Latin Quarter, De Pijp, where trendy cafés and edgy shops abound.

Seafood Bar

The Seafood Bar’s fare is invariably super fresh and very tasty. Its menu features staples like lobster soup and fish nuggets as well as more elaborate dishes like white-wine clams and garlic scampi.

INSIDER TIP

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 5 THESEAFOODBAR.NL

Blauwe Theehuis

The 700-seat terrace of the Blue Teahouse is the perfect haven to enjoy a glass of orange juice and a brownie after a long bike ride around the Vondelpark’s trails. The peculiar, round-shaped café with dreamy blue trims offers fresh snacks and sandwiches, and sometimes hosts special events such as parties, barbecues or karaoke nights. VONDELPARK 5 BLAUWETHEEHUIS.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

‘There’s so much art, Museumplein makes your head spin. It’s difficult to pick which museum to visit because they are all so amazing, but the Rijks is by far the must-see.’ Alex Carugati (26), carpenter, and David Strametto (23), fitness trainer


ADVERTORIAL

V

Amsterdam by land & water

or hit the high-street isiting Amon the Leidsestraat. sterdam and Prefer nature? Take a want to Visiting Amsterdam and want to explore the stroll along the Amstel explore the city from city from all angles? Then why not book River, or through the all angles? Then why Stromma’s ‘Hop On-Hop Off Bus & Boat’? gorgeous green spaces not book Stromma’s of Vondelpark or West‘Hop On-Hop Off Bus & erpark, all accessible by Boat’? It offers you the back on again to continue your journey. bus. Whatever your perfect day looks like, unique combination of land and water: Whichever mode of transport you find we’ve got you covered. a boat to discover the city centre from yourself taking, there’s a multilingual the stunning UNESCO World Heritage guide to help you orientate yourself. canals, and a bus to explore the areas outside the historic centre. Plus, this is Create your own tour the best value ticket you’ll find – because The perfect way to create your ideal itinit’s two-in-one! erary in Amsterdam: because the bus and boat give you the flexibility to stop whenHop on & off as much as you like ever you like, you get to build your own tour. Love museums and galleries? Hop With Stromma’s unique sightseeing tour, off the boat at the world-famous Rijksmuyou can make as many stops as you like. seum, Hermitage Museum or Stedelijk Not least because there’s a range of tickMuseum of Contemporary Art. Shopping ets to choose from: one day (from mornGet your tickets more your thing? Browse the flea market ing till evening), 24 hours and 48 hours. For more information and to buy tickets, at Waterlooplein, window-shop at the All of them allow you to hop off to see visit: stromma.nl/en/hop-on-hop-off luxury designer stores on P.C. Hooftstraat, as many sights as you like, and then hop I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


For more information on Amsterdam Centre, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Centre

69

FULL OF CONTRASTS

The National Maritime Museum

The gargantuan National Maritime Museum explores the strong historical bond between the Netherlands and the sea through beautiful exhibits. Relive the Golden Age via a special VR experience, gape at the whale room in the West Wing, admire the museum’s huge collection of ancient maps, and let the kids play pirate on the exact replica of a VOC ship moored right outside. KATTENBURGERPLEIN 1 HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.NL

The centre of Amsterdam is a love story between the city’s historical culture and its innovative, avant-garde spirit.

The Red Carpet

BIERFABRIEK

Bierfabriek only carries three beers (Rosso, red ale; Nero, dark porter; and Puur, a rich, unfiltered pilsner); it also offers delicious free-range chicken that deserves a special mention – bathed in beer before being slowly roasted on a bed of charcoal. Sinful. NES 67, BIERFABRIEK.COM

I

t’s cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel defines Amsterdam Centre’s personality: it’s all about contrasts. The Red Light District itself is one big dichotomy, with a 12th-century church and romantic bridges as the backdrop for tawdry windows displaying intimate body parts – real or rubber. All the hubbub makes it hard to differentiate the tourist traps from the genuine, but the latter is there if you look a little closer. Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross the Singel to the Nine Streets, where Dutch fashion designers show off their innovative skills. A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life, with its bustling markets and lively cafés. And if you head east instead of west, past the flea market on Waterlooplein (where you’ll find vintage treasures as well as cheap souvenirs), you’ll step into the deceptively peaceful Plantage, home not only to the famous ARTIS Royal Zoo and the enchanting Hortus botanical gardens, but also a thrumming cultural life including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, the Hermitage Amsterdam Museum, Royal Theatre Carré, the Kriterion cinema – and a slew of exceptional bars and restaurants.

INSIDER TIP

‘The Nine Streets is what I imagine a nice shopping district should be like. Everything you can imagine is here, and there is always something going on, something to do.’ Joey de Boer (25), tattoo artist

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


ADVERTORIAL

Face to face with the Golden Age

I

Dutch art of the Golden Age is world famous. The best painters in the 17th century came from Holland and lived and worked in Amsterdam. Rembrandt van Rijn, Govert Flinck, Ferdinand Bol… need we go on? Among their many skills, they were particularly famous for their portraiture.

n the Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age at the Hermitage Museum, you’ll find 30 colossal 17th-century group portraits from the Amsterdam Museum and the Rijksmuseum collections. These unique paintings are rarely featured in exhibitions due to their size. To give you an idea of their sheer magnitude: the roof of the museum had to be lifted off, and cranes used to bring the largest paintings inside.

Dutch society in the Golden Age But who are the people in these group portraits? Why did they want to share the limelight as members of a group (and

pay for it!), rather than stand out in an individual portrait? They tell a tale of Dutch society in the Golden Age – a progressive nation even back then. In these portraits, Dutch regents, civic guards and merchants of all ranks, social classes and religions stand together as brothers, to show civic virtue and egalitarianism. What’s more, women were allowed to engage in trade independently and hold administrative posts. These powerful women are also found in the group I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

paintings on display: Girl Power in the Golden Age. The main hall of the Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age is one of Amsterdam’s best kept secrets. Standing in a huge hall, with 200 pairs of proud eyes from three centuries ago staring back at you, is a humbling experience. You’re standing face to face with the Golden Age – literally.

Hermitage Museum

Amstel 51 in Amsterdam. Buy your ticket at the desk or online. Tickets cost €17.50, but are free with the I Amsterdam City Card except for a €2.50 admin fee. portraitgalleryofthegoldenage.com.


Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area

72 Castles & Gardens 77 Flowers 79 New Land 81 Beaches 82 Haarlem 83 Old Holland 84 Beyond Amsterdam

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting. A fun family day out. MUIDERSLOT.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Castles & Gardens

72 | text: TEXT: Karin DESIREE EngelbrechtVAN DER HEIDE AND VICKY HAMPTON

Heritage Nature Home to old castles, fortified towns and ruins, the picturesque fortress stretch – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – offers a fascinating glimpse into medieval times.

D

iscover the wealth of the Golden Age: rent a bike and explore the banks of the River Amstel with Amsterdam’s southern skyline right behind you. En route to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, you’ll spy old merchant estates from the Golden Age. Why not stop for lunch in one of the fine restaurants in this waterside village? On your way back to Amsterdam, try a local KEK! beer on a sunny terrace in the meadows of Amstelland. For avid bikers: extend your trip with an extra loop around the Ronde Hoep to gaze at meandering rivers, spot the local birds, and enjoy a bit of peace and quiet. Even those less keen on biking and boating will find ways to while away the summer days in this beautiful region just a stone’s throw from Amsterdam. From museums and exhibitions to classical music in an idyllic spot, the following few pages are here to inspire your next day trip. Enjoy the peaceful outdoors at one of the events that are taking place in the green surroundings of Amsterdam’s castles and gardens this summer…

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


CASTLES AND GARDENS

73

s Include & ap area m ps day tri

Get your map of the Amsterdam area from I amsterdam’s Visitor Centres (see page 86)

www.iamsterdam.com/area

cover booqi castles 2018.indd 1

13-03-18 18:04

River Vecht by boat

The River Vecht winds between Amsterdam and Utrecht and is a wonderful setting for a boat trip or bike ride from Muiden or Weesp. Both offer unimpeded views of the imposing castles, country houses and accompanying tearooms. Wealthy Golden Age merchants once spent their summer months here. The holidaymakers ‘only’ needed five to seven hours to reach their rural residences. Thankfully, it’s much quicker today! And why choose between land and water when exploring the lovely country estates of the River Vecht? For boat trips and rentals, check out vvvgooivecht.nl/en. For true flexibility, the Fietsboot (Bike Boat) lets you hop on and off a boat and continue by bike as you please. DEFIETSBOOT.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Castles & Gardens

74 | GLIMPSE THE GOLDEN AGE

Naarden, fortress town

Naarden is one of the most remarkable examples of a preserved fortified town. From the air, the town’s unique layout resembles a gigantic snowflake, comprised of six bastions, a double rampart and a double ring of canals. The history of Naarden is explained at the fascinating Dutch Fortress Museum, which features canons, weapons, uniforms and an audio-visual presentation. Experience how the soldiers protected Amsterdam and its surroundings from enemies from the Far East, and explore the dark corners of the fortress, where the soldiers once fought, lived and slept.

Š CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

VESTINGMUSEUM.NL

Pampus Island

Once built to defend the capital, Pampus is now a unique fortress island and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can enjoy a 40-minute tour through the abandoned fortress, a black-light scavenger hunt for children, an audio guide in English or German sharing the secrets of 400 years of history, a cosy restaurant, and myriad interesting historical artefacts. PAMPUS.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

75

Heritage Festival: Nature Green

© JURI HIENCH

From 31 May through till 9 September, museums and heritage institutions in the Gooi & Vecht region are organising the first Heritage Festival: Nature Green. The festival introduces visitors to the region’s stories and nature via exhibitions, hiking and cycling tours, talks and an educational workbook for children.

Wonderfeel Festival

© JFOPPE SCHUT

A three-day outdoor festival, Wonderfeel takes place on the estate of ‘Schaep en Burgh’ in ’s-Graveland (near Hilversum) on 20, 21 and 22 July. Wonderfeel works in close collaboration with Natuurmonumenten, the Dutch conservation organisation, so it’s no surprise that this classical music festival has a strong link to nature. The seven Wonderfeel stages are set within a stunning 25-hectare conservation area, offering something for everyone, including baroque, jazz, world and pop music. You can expect 125 concerts from 350 musicians, including world-class maestros, the most exciting newcomers, and respected members of the musical establishment – all while relaxing under the trees or stretched out on a rug on the lawn. For the kids, there are films, dances, stories and craft activities.

Discover the beauty of Pinetum Blijdenstein in Hilversum, a unique botanical garden that specialises in conifers, but is also home to cycads, ephedras and rhododendrons, as well as a variety of tropical plants in its greenhouses. Visit the Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot and its beautiful gardens, or deep dive into the changed scenery in Gooi & Vecht at Huizer Museum. The Singer Laren museum presents a brand new sculpture garden – designed by Piet Oudolf – as well as the Painted Gardens exhibition, with paintings from Leo Gestel, Max Liebermann, Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh and many others. GROENINGOOIVECHT.NL

WONDERFEEL.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€18.50

€26.00

€33.50


Flowers

77

A CARPET OF COLOUR

Flower Power The Dutch bulb fields, which support a billion-euro industry, are a carpet of geometric colour from mid-March through to August. Though tulip season itself may officially be over, there are still plenty of places to get your flower fix.

Flower auction

If you’re interested in learning more about the unique Dutch flower auction and cultivation process, De Historische Tuin (The Historic Garden) in Aalsmeer is definitely worth a visit. You’ll travel back in time to a replica of an auction hall, complete with a large clock dating from the 1930s. HISTORISCHETUINAALSMEER.NL

Aalsmeer Flower Festival

Enjoy a colourful weekend full of flowers, art, music and food during Aalsmeer Flower Festival. The fourth edition of this event takes place on 16 and 17 June. The festival is spread out over several locations, where you will find the most beautiful flowers and plants this city has to offer. Locations include the horticultural museum, a rose nursery, floral design school and spectacular waterfront location. Visitors can travel around by bus and boat, and there’s also a bike tour available. AALSMEERFLOWERFESTIVAL.NL

Pick your own

Thanks to its fertile sandy soil, Amsterdam’s flower strip has been the top producer of unique flowers, in particular tulips, for hundreds of years. Annemieke’s Pluktuin (picking garden), a nursery in Hillegom – 35 km from Amsterdam – specialises in cultivating tulips using organic horticultural techniques. The garden, which boasts more than 300 varieties of flowers, is open to the public. Learn how the blooms are prepared for sale, wander through the floral fields, and pick your own vibrant bunch to take home. A great souvenir from the flower strip! ANNEMIEKESPLUKTUIN.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


ADVERTORIAL

De Bazaar: a colourful combination of 100.000 m2 of market, shops and food stands. With over 50 cultures you will find a great variety of products and an inspiring ambiance you need to experience! In short: a must see!

Eat, shop & be amazed! Amsterdam by land & water

V

Stedelijk Museum of isiting AmVisiting Amsterdam and want to explore the Contemporary Art. sterdam and city from all angles? Then why not book Shopping more your want to exStromma’s “Hop On Hop-Off Bus & Boat”? thing? Browse the flea plore the city from all market at Waterlooangles? Then why not plein, window-shop book Stromma’s “Hop On at the luxury designer stores on PC Hop- Off Bus & Boat”? It offers you the All of them allow you to hop off to see Hooftstraaat, or hit the high-street on the unique combination of land and water: as many sights as you like, and then hop Leidsestraat. Prefer nature? Take a stroll a boat to discover the city centre from back on again to continue your journey. along the Amstel River, or through the the stunning UNESCO World Heritage Whichever mode of transport you find gorgeous green spaces of Vondelpark or canals, and a bus to explore the areas yourself taking, there’s a multi-lingual Westerpark, all accessible by bus. guide to help you orientate yourself. outside the historic centre. Plus, this is Whatever your perfect day looks like, the best value ticket you’ll find – because we’ve got you covered. it’s two-in-one! Create your own tour The perfect way to create your ideal Hop on & off as much as you like itinerary in Amsterdam: because the bus Stromma and boat give you the flexibility to stop With Stromma’s unique sightseeing tour, whenever you like, you get to build your you can make as many stops as you like. For more information and to buy tickets, own tour. Love museums and galleries? Not least because there’s a range of tickvisit: stromma.nl/en/hop-on-hop-off Hop off the boat at the world-famous ets to choose from: one day (from mornRijksmuseum, Hermitage Museum or ing till evening), 24 hours and 48 hours. ASMTSETREDRADM AM MGAAGZAI N Z IEN E I AI M MA


New Land WAGING WAR ON WATER

Find out more about day trips to North Holland’s ‘new land’ on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

79

Reclaiming Land For centuries the Dutch have waged a war with water. In the 20th century, work began to reclaim a large area of land from the former Zuiderzee, creating the province of Flevoland – essentially ‘new land’ – exemplifying Dutch creativity with water.

Batavialand

In 1950, construction began on the Gemaal Wortman, one of the three pumping stations used to drain Eastern Flevoland. First they built an island they called Perceel P to use as a base for their digging efforts, which later changed its name to Werkeiland Lelystad (Lelystad work island) and Lelystad was born. Batavialand presents a broad outline of the history of Flevoland, from the prehistoric Swifterbant people to the largest reclamation project ever: the Zuiderzee Project. The collection includes 6,000-year-old archaeological finds from the days when Flevoland was still an extensive marshland, as well as archives with thousands of photographs, documents and much more.

Fun Forest Almere

KEMPHAAN.NL

BATAVIALAND.NL

© LELYSTAD AIRPORT

© EL JEE BERGWERFF PHOTOGRAPHY

The sky’s the limit as you take to the trees at Fun Forest in Almere’s Stadslandgoed de Kemphaan. With four routes through the trees and long, white-knuckle zip lines (up to 150 metres in length), it’s the perfect day out for the whole family. The Fun Forest reception is located in the new Forestry Commission outdoor centre, which also has a great restaurant. Suitable for children aged eight and upwards (minimum height 1.30 metres).

Cablepark for kids

Aviodrome

CABLEPARKALMERE.NL

AVIODROME.NL

Calling all (water-based) thrill-seekers! Spend a day whizzing around the Weerwater Lake on waterskis or a wakeboard, aided by a kilometre-long cable track that enables speeds of up to 30km/h. After working up an appetite, grab a seat on the restaurant terrace and take in the tremendous views of the Almere skyline. Advance booking recommended.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

If your head’s always in the clouds, don’t miss Aviodrome Lelystad to learn all about modern aviation. Nowhere else in the world can you see and experience so many different types of airplanes. Test your knowledge of aviation trivia, peak inside a Boeing 747, and visit the museum and 4D theatre. There’s more to do outside, including a lookout point to watch planes take off from and land at Lelystad Airport. The airport also offers private sightseeing flights over Flevoland.


ADVERTORIAL

Experience Holland, visit the Zaanse Schans Experience the best of Holland in this must-see historic village: windmills, museums, wooden shoes, cheese, chocolate, real Dutch pancakes and much, much more! By bus: Direct connection between Amsterdam Central Station and the Zaanse Schans with R Net bus 391 (during summer also bus 891)

By train: From Amsterdam Central Station towards Uitgeest, get off at Station Zaandijk / Zaanse Schans and follow the signs

Heart of the matter www.dezaanseschans.nl

Discovƒr

O

n the fringes of Amsterdam lies Amstelveen’s Cobra Museum, whose mission linking the legacy of its postwar artists to today’s contemporary ones is, says artistic director Xander Karskens, ‘part of our programming DNA’. Enter Restless Matter, an exhibition exploring the materialist movement in art by drawing parallels between the attention to ‘matter’ among CoBrA artists including Karel Appel and Asger Jorn and modern European artists such as France’s Jean Dubuffet and Spain’s Antoni Tàpies. ‘The focus on matter in the arts today is something we see traces of in the CoBrA artists,’ says Karskens, whose movement born of postwar trauma was the first to see matter as more than just a vehicle for artistic expression: it became expression in and of itself. ‘Matter became a means to explore the relationship between humans and their surroundings.’

The raw seaside beauty lose yourself in wind and water sports out to • Cycle or walk literally kilometres s pier two the sea on one of of the • Eat freshly caught fish at one ants restaur d foo sea or s cafe ch bea e • Cycle or walk through the wid nd nemerla dunes of the Zuid- Ken National Park

• Visit the wide beach and

Want to explore? ijmuidenaanzee.nl,  @ Rauw aan Zee

Sloterdijk Bus 382 from Amsterdam s near the beach. to IJmuiden aan Zee stop

That exploration continues in Restless Matter with Swedish artist Nina Canell’s sculptural look at geological processes, Gum Shelf (2017): wall-mounted shelves are covered in a viscous gum that will slowly and naturally gravitate towards the floor over the course of the exhibition. ‘Canell looks at her material the same way Appel does,’ says Karskens, ‘as if it’s alive.’ The question at the heart of Restless Matter is no less than the future of our world: How will humanity be Cobra Museum able to manage its devastating impact of Modern Art on the planet? Cobra’s curators are • Restless Matter: 9 June – 23 hoping that by presenting a continuSeptember 2018 um of works focusing on alternative • Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen visions for our relationship to matter, • cobra-museum.nl viewers will take up the mantle.


Beaches

Ride a red Routemaster bus, greet Paddington Bear, and gobble down British food and drinks to the sound of bagpipes at the British Festival. One weekend a year Zandvoort goes full Brit.

WRIGGLE YOUR TOES IN THE SAND

BRITISH-FESTIVAL.CO.UK

81

Beach Life Just half an hour from Amsterdam, the beach stretches all the way from Zeeland in the south up as far as the Dutch islands. Seaside towns of Zandvoort and IJmuiden are only a short journey away. Check out one of these summer events and make the most of Amsterdam’s beaches!

Pride at the Beach

Pride Amsterdam is taking the heat to the beach for the second time this year. Expect a parade of many colours, music that will get your hips swaying and lots of happy, elaborately (or scantily) dressed people in this annual celebration of diversity with a sun-soaked twist. PRIDE.AMSTERDAM/PRIDE-AT-THE-BEACH

Find out more about day trips to North Holland’s beaches on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Dutch dunes: dining & more

NP-ZUIDKENNEMERLAND.NL

S E R AV I L O A L A O T S I R C ©

In the dunes, you’ll find luxurious stretches of beach or green forests and peaceful lakes that are perfect for a cool swim. The Dutch dunes are full of beautifully preserved historical manorial estates, open to the public for fine or brasserie-style dining and overnight stays. Duin & Kruidberg Country Estate (duin-kruidberg.nl), dating from 1682, offers 75 luxury hotel rooms within the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. Beeckestijn, meanwhile, is an 18th-century estate created from an older property as a summer residence for a wealthy Amsterdam regent, whose gardens are an outdoor museum.

Havenfestival, IJmuiden

Taking place in 2018 on the weekend of 2324 June, Havenfestival takes over the harbour at IJmuiden every year. This free, nautical-themed event provides music, culture and entertainment for the whole family. As well as local and national bands playing, activities on the agenda include demonstrations by divers, the fire department, rescue teams and navigation displays, plus the chance to explore ships and take boat trips. The festival takes place right in the centre of the harbour in IJmuiden: all the activities go down at the Trawlerkade, right up to the lighthouse and fishing harbour. Not somewhere you’d traditionally associate with a weekend of performing arts! HAVENFESTIVALIJMUIDEN.NL

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Haarlem

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

82 | AMSTERDAM'S CLOSEST NEIGHBOUR

2 CLASS

8 -12-201 ired with until 31 qu Valid out re y trip er in and Check rrier on ev each ca

1DAY

M ERDA AMSTREGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

History Meets Shopping Why not combine a trip to Haarlem with a lazy afternoon at the beach? You can dig your toes into the sand at Zandvoort Beach within 15 minutes from Haarlem! Alternatively, Amsterdam’s closest neighbour still has plenty to offer in the city centre…

Haarlemse Hofjes

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Leafy courtyards enclosed by rows of quaint houses, Haarlem’s 21 hofjes can be hard to find behind their heavy doors and concealed entrances – but they’re well worth seeking out. These almshouses were often established by wealthy citizens as sheltered accommodation for elderly women in need (their male counterparts were housed in ‘old men’s homes’, such as the building that now houses the Frans Hals Museum). The oldest hofjes date back to the 12th century, and were built for Beguines, but most date from the 15th-18th centuries. Most hofjes can be visited daily except Sundays, free of charge, 10:00–17:00.

Haarlem’s historic Grote Markt

Flanked by convivial cafés and restaurants – plus plenty of historic buildings – the Grote Markt, previously called ’t Sant, is the original centre of Haarlem and is considered by many the most beautiful urban square in the country. In the 13th and 14th centuries, a gallows loomed over ’t Sant, jousting tournaments were held in the square, and traders pedalled their wares. The City Hall (which also houses the Tourist Information Centre) stands on the spot of the hunting lodge of the Counts of Holland. The wooden building was almost entirely destroyed by a fire in the 14th century, but was rebuilt in florid style.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Shop till you drop

Haarlem’s compact centre is crammed with everything from unique boutiques and specialised shops to chain-store staples – perfect for a day of (window) shopping. Especially for shopping enthusiasts, I amsterdam has selected a shopping route through the historic centre of Haarlem. Visit the website for more details. IAMSTERDAM.COM/HAARLEM-ROUTE


Old Holland PERFECT FOR BOATING OR BIKING

The Zaan region

The Zaan region is famous for its industrial roots: in the 17th century, some 600 windmills were built here. During the 1600s, wood was sawn and sails and ropes were woven in the windmills of the Zaan region. The strategic location, on the water and in close proximity to Amsterdam, saw the area flourish during the Golden Age. Today, it is a magnificent piece of perfectly preserved industrial heritage. The 11-km waterfront of the River Zaan connects approximately 75 vintage industrial buildings, including windmills and the vast Industrial Wall at Wormer. It makes for a surprisingly beautiful view from the river. For a spectacular view of the Zaan region, hop on the Zaanferry and hop off at any stop en route.

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

| 83

More than Cheese and Windmills The scenic towns and villages of Edam, Volendam, Marken and Monnickendam – all north of Amsterdam – are beautifully preserved. Water here is everywhere in evidence, so take to the canals by boat or hop on your bike and cycle through the polders.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

ZAANFERRY.COM

Edam is one of Holland's bestkept secrets. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the fortress town was one of the country’s most important commercial centres, with thriving shipbuilding, timber and cheese trading industries. Until 1922, farmers from the surrounding area sailed by boat to Edam’s cheese market to sell their produce. Let them eat cheese!

Old Holland by bike

Take a full day’s bike trip through Old Holland with I amsterdam’s themed bike route. First rent a bike in Amsterdam, then pedal north through the flat green Waterland area to discover the Dutch polders. Make sure you don’t miss out on one of the small harbour towns in the region for fresh fish and Dutch folklore. IAMSTERDAM.COM/OLD-HOLLAND-ROUTE

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Edam


Beyond Amsterdam 84 | THIS SUMMER'S HOTTEST FESTIVALS

Further Afield Of course, there’s more to the Netherlands than just the Amsterdam area. All across the country, especially in summer, there are festivals and events happening every weekend. Here’s our pick of just a few of the highlights.

Rotterdam Unlimited

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

  


85

Flag Day in Scheveningen

Celebrate the historic arrival of the Netherlands’ favourite fish, herring, to the harbours of Scheveningen  on Vlaggetjesdag (Flag Day). While eating herring in the traditional Dutch manner – held by the tail and lowered into your mouth as you tip your head back – is encouraged, there is plenty more to do at this annual festival, including old Dutch children’s games and football on the beach.

Parkpop in The Hague

One of the largest free pop festivals in Europe, Parkpop is a must for music lovers when visiting The Hague  in the summer. Open to all, its welcoming atmosphere is a perfect demonstration of Dutch friendliness and music. 22–24 JUNE, PARKPOP.NL

16 JUNE, VLAGGETJESDAG.COM

Leeuwarden, EU Capital of Culture

Rotterdam Unlimited

It’s carnival time in Rotterdam  in late July! Rotterdam Unlimited (pictured left) is one of the biggest free street festivals in Europe. The city’s eclectic music scene, famous creative arts community and 178 different cultures are the secret ingredients of its vibrant and exciting atmosphere. For five days, you can expect drum battles, a spectacular street parade, heaps of live music, incredibly energetic dancing and much more. Live electronic, soca, hip-hop, soul, R&B, drum & bass and jungle are all represented. Plus there’s a huge market where you can enjoy food from all over the world.

With Leeuwarden-Friesland as the 2018 European Capital of Culture, there’s never been a better time to visit the province of Friesland  . Festivals, exhibitions, events and performances are taking place across the region. In addition to Leeuwarden natives, Mata Hari and M.C. Escher, the Frisian horses, Elfstedentocht, Tall Ships, Wadden area and Royal de Luxe giants will also play parts in the celebrations. ALL YEAR, FRIESLAND.NL

Lowlands in Biddinghuizen

Every year, more than 55,000 pilgrims make the trek to the middle of the Dutch countryside in Biddinghuizen  for this musical mecca. This year’s line-up features some of the world’s best performers and musicians. As well as headliners Kendrick Lamar, Gorillaz and N.E.R.D, standouts for 2018 include Bonobo, The War on Drugs and Maribou State. There are also restaurants, a market, relaxation rooms, literature, theatre, arts, and a sauna and hot tub area. 17–19 AUGUST, LOWLANDS.NL

24-28 JULY, ROTTERDAMUNLIMITED.COM

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE


Need to Know

86

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city. Last-minute Tickets

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10:00, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 08:00-19:00; Thu-Sat 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-18:00 Iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Regional Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 07:00-22:00

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip each carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

A

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET


87

USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!): I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-theminute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange.

Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels. AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture. SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app featuring local highlights. A WANDERLUST FOR LIFE: awanderlustforlife.com A guide to expat life in Amsterdam & European travel.

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).


ZAANSE SCHANS

A UTH ER HO V E

WESTERPARK

HAARLEM 3 WESTERGASFABRIEK

12

HAARLEMMERWEG

10

DE

3

R. XST R NI A AT

3-12

7

7-10

NASS AUK A

R DIJK

DE

B IL DE

L E ID

STR A AT

1

L E ID

R AC

SES

TR

HT

A AT

5 1-2-

STADSSCHOUWBURG

-16 2-5

1

7-10 -16

3-12

OM ERTO

SEG

SP UI

16-24

HOOFDW EG

-17 A AT 7 RSTR K INK E

OV

DAM

R ACH T

12-13-14

NIEUWE K

ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM K EI Z ER S G

TR.

7-17

17

HT

13-14-17

R ACH T

FRE

ERQS

13

REMBRANDTPARK

AC

ACH T

E ND IK H

WESTERKERK R ACH T R OZE NG

DE R

12-14

7

DE CL

7-13

GR

HER ENGR

STR

T

R IK

GA LE NS TR AA

JA N VA N

RS

E

R WEG

ERASMUSPARK

P R IN S ENG

14

RWEG

WE

3

L OMME

NAS

BOS EN

R UIJ T E

2

ESSE

AT STR A

2

16

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

16

4 5 -2

3-12-24

C E IN T UU

STR

A AT

16

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

D

EG

2 3-5-1L E S T R . ER V. B A

IR DE L A

ARK W

FE R DIN A N

W

SP IL L E M

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

16-2 B OL S T R4 A AT

VONDELPARK

E

RIJKSMUSEUM

1-17

HOBB EM AK AD

7-14

OU

MA

L

BR

10

AA

K AD

MIR

SAU

AD

VA N HA LL ST RA AT

12

17

EG

BEACH MA

R AT

HO

NW

BEE

T HO

VEN

APOLLOLAAN

PA RN AS SU SW

88 | ILLUSTRATION: BARBARA VAN DEN BERG

16

Map

EG

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

1

Tramline

R

Metro

R

Metro Station

I


VOLENDAM/ VOLENDAM/ MARKEN MARKEN

NOOR

A AT STR

ALMERE/ ALMERE/ LELYSTAD LELYSTAD

PEK

WH VLIEGENBOS WH VLIEGENBOS

DE R VA N

VA N

DE R

PEK

STR

ND S M VE ER

ND S M VE ER

A AT

NOOR

DE R P AR K

NAV E UTH ER HO V E NAV E

GGE LW E E LW E DI S T V E E RDI S T V E E R

DE R P AR K

89

IJ T

UN

NE L

IJ T

UN

NE L

EYE FILMEYE FILM FILMMUSEUM FILMMUSEUM

L

14

ZEEBURGERDIJK ZEEBURGERDIJK 14 BOR N BOR N EOS T EOS T R A AT R A AT

T

4-9-14 -16-24

4-9-14 -16-24

10

7-10

9

3-7

9

3-7 3

3-7

9

7

7

OOSTERPARK OOSTERPARK

9

TROPENMUSEUM TROPENMUSEUM

SK A DE SK A DE M A UR IT M A UR IT

10

10

L

GE

GE

SIN

SIN

T

16-24

ER

RAA 7-10

SK A DE SK A DE OUDE R OUDE R S TA D H S TA D H

7

7-14 LINDEW EG SUEG 7IN SULINDINEW

3-7

3

4

4

W IB

W IB

AU T

AU T

STR

STR

A AT

A AT

VA N W

VA N W

OUS T

OUS T

TIPARK TIPARK S A R PH A S A R PH A 3 3 UCREBINA TAUNUR B A A N

VE

RAA

7-10

NATIONALNATIONAL MARITIMEMARITIME MUSEUMMUSEUM NIEU NIEU WE V WE V T A A R T A A R T A AT AA TR TR S S R R PL A PL A TE TE N TA G N TA G PE R PE E MI E MI AR A DDE DDE A A Z Z NL A NL A C C AN AN 9-14 9-14 14 14

RST

RST

7-10

10

SPE

SPE

4

4

ROYAL THEATRE ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ CARRÉ

ST

ER

WEE

WEE

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

VE

KNSM-LAAN KNSM-LAAN P IE T HE INP IE T HE IN K A DE K A DE

A AT A AT STR STR GE R UR GE R R U B B KEN ALKEN VA L V STADSSCHOUWBURG STADSSCHOUWBURG

ST

26

POOSTER-OOSTERNEMO NEMO SCIENCE MUSEUMMUSEUM DOK SCIENCE NS R INDOK HE N S HE N DR I DR I KK A KK A DE DE

4-9-14 4-9-14

OO

EL

S UM AT RS UM AT R A K A DE A K A DE

26

PR I

OO

IJ T UNN

EL

17 3-17 131 -5- -2-5- 6-24 6-24 1-2 1 9-1 -1 44 -9 AK AK R R M M NIEUWE KERK KERK DA DA DAM

PUI

HET IJ HET IJ

IJ T UNN

AMSTERDAM TOWER TOWER AMSTERDAM TERR LOTERR O L KS EE KS EE BUI WEGV BUI WEGV L E I N V E ELRE I N V E E R IJP IJP

R A AT

R A AT

4

4

AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT

RailwayRailway

RailwayRailway StationStation

I amsterdam I amsterdam VisitorVisitor CentreCentre

1 kilometre 1 kilometre I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

7-14


On the Way Out

90 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Charlie Binmore (20), ground worker, and Emma Harvey, 24, hospital worker, from the UK ‘Artis zoo is a blast. And they have crocodiles, which was awesome because the zoo near our town doesn’t have them!’ Cindy and Joel Rogers (56 and 60), barista and civil engineer from Minnesota, USA ‘Take a daytrip to Haarlem, it’s such a quaint town, and people are very friendly. The Grote Markt square, with the cathedral and all the little shops and restaurants, is so lovely.’

Nicole Janssen (27), social worker in Norway ‘Hop on the ferry and visit NDSM Wharf. Even if there’s nothing special going on at the island, it’s got a very special atmosphere, and the cafés on the water are just splendid.’

Luis Afonso de Brütt Pacheco da Cunha Matos (36), and his family, bartender from Portugal ‘We were very inspired by Taste of Amsterdam in Amstelpark. It’s such a wonderful idea to have a foodie festival outdoors, with music.’

Mohammed Nassou (51), technician from France, and family ‘It’s a bit far away, but the Haarlemmermeerse Bos, with its wide lake and gorgeous, untamed nature, is a really special place. I love the Dutch lifestyle, they have a real appreciation for nature.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken, bureau-studio designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Marie-Charlotte Pezé, Desiree van der Heide, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Rhys Elliott, Megan Waters, Alison McGarry, Jayne Robinson, Steven McCarron & Alex Hibbert), SaltyStock (Barbara van den Berg, Gemma Pauwels) cover photo bureau-studio: Sjoerd van Heumen advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn‘t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE



Eat & shop Dining by daylight Summer cocktails Ice cream heaven

Around town

What’s on

Go North Heritage castles & green gardens

Pride Amsterdam Summer festivals Star Wars in concert

Magazine | The Summer Issue 2018

The Summer Issue

Life’s a Beach

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

Have a nice stay

Vol 1 #3 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.