I amsterdam Magazine winter 2019/2020 by amsterdam&partners

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Magazine | The Winter Issue 2019/2020

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Made by amsterdam & partners Have a nice stay

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TH E W IN TE R IS SU E

The Art of ‘Gezelligheid’

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Contents 5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Dutch Gezelligheid WARM UP YOUR WINTER

The Danish have hygge; the Dutch gezelligheid. Amsterdam in winter is full of cosy bars, comfort food and wrapped-up activities.

12 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, there’s an itinerary for everyone – however long or short your stay.

17 Eat, Drink & Shop WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Celebratory dinners, Amsterdam’s best pancake houses, and our festive gift guide – we’ve got you covered this holiday season.

35 What’s On YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA

From Christmas concerts to the Amsterdam Light Festival, it’s a magical time of year in the Dutch capital.

55 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY © NICKY OTTEN

This winter, discover the cultural melting pot that is Amsterdam East. Or explore the treasures that await in the Hallenkwartier...

67 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

’Tis the season for Christmas markets! And you’ll find them throughout the region. Plus: art in Amstelveen and winter walks.

n a random WhatsApp conversation between two Dutchies, you may frequently stumble on a one word message that simply says ‘Gezellig!’ (always with an exclamation mark). The word gezellig is almost untranslatable. Literally it would mean something like ‘cosy’, but it has many mysterious connotations, making it a possible reaction to almost any situation, almost like ‘nice!’ A proposal to have dinner with a friend can be easily responded to with a heartfelt ‘gezellig!’ The reFor more quirements for gezelligheid are information about no more than that it involves Amsterdam, an activity with two or more visit our website: iamsterdam.com persons, and it’s not work. Quintessential gezelligheid is when it’s cold outside and people gather around the fireplace (central heating more likely) with tea or hot chocolate (warme chocolademelk), playing board games. Amsterdam in winter abounds with gezelligheid. Shopping areas are decorated with lights, cafés light up fire pits and patio heaters on their terraces, and shop windows compete for the fanciest Christmas displays. Speaking of gezelligheid, until 19 January, the light sculptures of the Amsterdam Light Festival illuminate the canals. All canal cruise companies offers tours along the route. If you do only one thing during your stay, this should be it. If you’d rather stay on dry land, the best way to experience Dutch gezelligheid is to join in the national sport of ice skating. On Museumplein and at several other locations, miniature ice rinks are an easy way to get started. For both activities, check out our website iamsterdam.com. Enjoy!

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION TURN TO PAGE 78, MAP ON PAGE 65

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

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Winter 6 | TEXT: JAYNE ROBINSON

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This pearl of Dutch wisdom has no direct English translation, but encompasses the idea that time flies when you you’re having fun.

The Dutch Art of Gezelligheid The nights are long, the days are cold. But with the right approach, winter in Amsterdam can be the most magical season of all.

ou already know what gezelligheid is. You just don’t know you know it. Like all of the best things in life, it can’t be bought. It’s a feeling. Life through a vintage filter. A tiny flame deep inside that glows quietly when stoked. A long chat with an old friend. A convivial dinner party under twinkling fairy lights. It’s a picnic in the park on a sunny day, or a funny story told by the warm-hearted guy at the bar. It is, occasionally, woolly socks. This feeling of well-being and contentment has no direct translation into English. They might call it hygge, perhaps, in a misreading of the Scandinavian equivalent which has been fetishised beyond recognition by the advertising industry. That’s ok – you don’t need to put a label on it.

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Just relax and enjoy the little sparkles rising within. Gezelligheid belongs to all seasons – but wintertime is when we need it most. Luckily, you won’t need to look far to find it in Amsterdam. So without further ado, here are some ways to warm your cockles, Dutch-style.

Let’s get cosy

Ok, pull up a seat. The thing is: Amsterdam can be a dark, cold place in winter. So the resourceful Dutch have found ways to combat this with plenty of opportunities for gezellig winter encounters around a fireplace, or under the warm heaters and blankets of a canal-side terrace. So-called ‘brown cafés’ are traditional Dutch pubs, where gezelligheid oozes from every softly-lit nook and cranny, and

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‘It’s a long chat with an old friend. A convivial dinner party under twinkling fairy lights.’

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Winter

‘So-called brown cafés are traditional Dutch pubs, where gezelligheid oozes from every softly-lit nook and cranny.’

8 | WARM UP YOUR WINTER

What to eat and drink

Now that you’ve found your gezellig spot, it’s time to look at the menu. To drink, try a hot chocolate milk – usually the Dutch brand Chocomel – and add a splash of rum for extra warmth. Dutch winter food is designed to warm you from the inside out:

think big, hearty dishes and warm, stodgy apple pie, called appeltaart. Snert (you heard me), also often listed as erwtensoep or Hollandse erwtensoep on the menu, is the ultimate winter warmer: a thick pea soup packed with onions, celery, leeks, carrots and sliced smoked sausage (rookworst), traditionally served with rye bread and/or smoked bacon. Stamppot is a big lovely mess of mashed potato mushed up with other vegetables including sauerkraut, kale, spinach or turnip greens. Oliebollen (which translates to ‘oil buns’ – yum?) are so special that you can only get them for a few short winter months. Traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve, they’re essentially deep-fried dough balls dusted with powdered sugar, sometimes studded with currants. Look out for oliebollen stalls which appear around Amsterdam in mid-October, and eat as many as you possibly can before they disappear for another year.

Stamppot

Oliebollen

you tend to leave with more friends than you arrived with. You’ll find one on every corner, but some particularly charming examples can be found in the Jordaan area, where there’s sure-fire gezelligheid at Het Papeneiland, De Oranjerie and Café Chris, which has been letting the good times roll since 1624. And you don’t need to restrict yourself to the tables inside. Many brown cafés have heated canal-side terraces with snuggly blankets for optimal winter cosiness with a view. Try Café Marcella on Amstelveld or Café Toussaint in the Helmersbuurt for some cosy winter al fresco action.

Cosy fireplaces

1.Pllek: Snuggle around the fire pit and watch the waves crashing outside at this waterfront restaurant made from reclaimed shipping containers on the north shore of the IJ River. 2. Café de Wetering: Up the stairs in this 17th-century bolthole, you’ll discover a huge fireplace to warm your toes on – and an equally warm welcome. 3. Vergulden Eenhoorn: The crackling fire at this former farmhouse is surrounded by comfortable leather sofas just made for curling up on a cold day. 4. Meneer Nieges: This waterside summertime hotspot does winter equally well; just ask the people cosying up around the cylindrical wood-burner. 5. Badhuis: This former bathhouse in Amsterdam Oost has a roaring log fire and comfy sofas, perfect for a warming lunch or coffee.

Meneer Nieges

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Local brand Rain Couture sells wet-weather gear that’s Amsterdam winter-proof! HUIDENSTRAAT 32, UTRECHTSESTRAAT 106 RAIN-COUTURE.NL

Get out into the cold

Sometimes you need to get cold to truly enjoy the warm. So wrap up in a cosy coat and get your skates on at the picturesque Museumplein ice rink, where for most of the winter you can twirl amongst the fairy lights with a view of the Rijksmuseum before hitting up the après-ski chalet bar. If you prefer less slippery ground, Amsterdam and the surrounding areas abound with opportunities for a bracing winter walk. Wander through the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam forest) in search of the pancake house Boerderij Meerzicht, which looks like something straight out of Hänsel and Gretel, or seek out wildlife in the dunes of the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park near Haarlem, where shaggy Highland cattle and deer roam free through the forests and windswept hilltops. A good starting place for a dune walk is Het Wed, a picturesque lake surrounded by walking and cycling routes, easily accessible by bus from Haarlem station.

INSIDER TIP

Museumplein ice rink

‘My ideal winter day consists of shopping for furniture and fashion on Utrechtsestraat. My best shop for furniture is Danish design furniture shop Bolia, and the best shop for all-weather coats (even warm waterproof woollen ones!) is Rain Couture.’ Daphne Gerritse, fashion designer

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Winter

Festive markets

10 | WARM UP YOUR WINTER Take in the bright lights

Amsterdam twinkles its way through the dark winter months, with fairy lights and illuminations at every turn. The Amsterdam Light Festival runs from 28 November to 19 January and is the city’s brightest winter attraction, when magnificent light sculptures illuminate special walking and boat routes through the winding waterways. This year’s theme is ‘Disrupt!’ and will focus on the eastern side of the city, with artworks scattered around the Oosterdok, Oudeschans, Amstel, Nieuwe Keizersgracht, Plantage Muidergracht and Entrepotdok. For the most gezellig experience, take an open-boat tour on a dry evening and keep warm with blankets and hot Chocomel while you sail by, under and sometimes through stunning artworks by renowned international illumination artists. More illuminations can be found at Hortus by Night throughout December and January, when Amsterdam’s historic

botanical gardens open late to welcome visitors to a series of enchanting evenings featuring illuminated gardens, atmospheric greenhouses and a winter terrace complete with campfire and glühwein.

Fisherman’s friends

The gezelligheid doesn’t stop with Amsterdam. North of the city, the traditional fishing villages of Volendam, Monnickendam and Marken are gloriously tourist-free in the winter and offer ample opportunities to don your best cable-knit sweater and slurp on seafood soup overlooking the wooden masts of the olde-worlde harbours. Get there by car or public transport. Or for a bracing coastal walk, catch the train west of Amsterdam for half an hour until you come to the seaside town of Zandvoort, where the North Sea crashes

Throughout the month of December, the Netherlands overflows with holiday cheer. Markets become more than a place to buy food and trinkets – they are a place to warm up with glühwein and oliebollen, find the perfect gifts for friends and family, and spend time with those you love. Just 15 minutes away from Amsterdam by train, the Haarlem Christmas Market is one of the biggest festive markets in the country and takes over the city’s Medieval square and surrounding streets with stalls selling festive fare on 7 and 8 December. For more Christmas markets in and around Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/christmasmarkets.

INSIDER TIP

‘To me, gezelligheid means lazing around on a Sunday morning, cooking a full English breakfast for the family and then going out for a nice walk in the Amsterdamse Bos.’ Amsterdam Light Festival

Nick Smith, owner, Stainless Sound & Music

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Fore more information about activities this winter, visit iamsterdam.com

Metropolitan’s old-fashioned extrathick hot chocolate is arguably the best in the city… WARMOESSTRAAT 135 METROPOLITAN.NL

Marken harbour

onto uninterrupted stretches of beach, peppered with cosy beach cafés and restaurants for the all-important post-walk gezelligheid. So, there you have it. The nights may be dark, the temperatures may be challenging, and the snow may fall. But with a sturdy pair of waterproof boots and enough gezelligheid, you may just find that winter is the warmest time of the year in Amsterdam.

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Hortus by Night

The epitome of gezellig

Café in ’t Aepjen

The oldest brown cafés

Many of Amsterdam’s brown bars lay claim to the title of the city’s oldest pub, but nobody really knows which came first. What we do know is that several of them date back to the Golden Age or earlier; when the Dutch East India Company ruled the seas and salty sailors traded stories over bottles of genever. Some say that Café in ’t Aepjen has been there since the 1400s, while others claim it’s a century later. Either way, this cosy Zeedijk watering hole was popular with sailors in the Golden Age who, as legend has it, would offer exotic animals such as monkeys for payment of bar tabs. Other age-old drinking establishments where time seems to have stood still for centuries include De Druif, Het Papeneiland and Café Karpershoek. Rijksmuseum

‘The beauty of the word is that it has a different meaning for everybody. In my mind, it’s a way of looking at things that bring up good feelings and memories. If something gives you a positive vibe, I’d call it gezellig. To me, the Lindengracht Market (on Saturdays) is the epitome of gezellig. Having a chat with all the vendors, bumping into old friends and getting a taste of real Amsterdam culture. The perfect spot where these all meet is at our Fluks stall. Look out for a big pan filled with sausages, ham and zuurkool (sauerkraut). Stop for a traditional pea soup, have a seat and experience what gezellig is really all about!’ Paul Fluks, restaurant owner and chef

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Your Trip

12 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in…

Stroll the nine streets

See breath-taking architecture

Wander through the historic Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’) where you’ll find a cluster of fashion boutiques, design stores and antiques dealers. Refuel with coffee and Dutch apple pie at one of the many cafés with a canal view. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Admire the Gothic grandeur of Pierre Cuypers’ architecture. Amsterdam Central Station and the Rijksmuseum are his most famous projects: two palatial structures with elaborate cast-iron and stone detailing. DURATION: 1 HOUR

Try a plate of steaming poffertjes

Piping hot mini pancakes buried under a mountain of melting butter and powdered sugar – need we say more? Find them at the Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp. DURATION: 20 MINS

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Discover De Plantage © KOEN SMILDE

Make a list and check it twice

Follow the fairy lights and find the perfect Christmas gifts in Amsterdam’s independent stores. Recommended shopping spots include the areas surrounding Utrechtsestraat, Haarlemmerstraat and Beethovenstraat.

Escape to the quieter, tree-lined streets of De Plantage, a photogenic neighbourhood that’s home to the Hortus Botanicus (botanical gardens) and ARTIS Amsterdam Royal Zoo (both free with the I amsterdam City Card). DURATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Go Dutch at dinner

DUR ATION: 2-3 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Modern Dutch cuisine is all about local, sustainable produce and experimental flavour combinations. Chefs at De Kas, Bolenius, Wilde Zwijnen and Floreyn expertly present the lowlands on a plate.

Head to the Rijksmuseum for the Dutch Golden Age masters, the Van Gogh Museum for paintings by the PostImpressionist himself, and the Stedelijk Museum for all things contemporary (all free with the I amsterdam City Card).

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Get your skates on

Carve up the ice on one of the city’s outdoor skating rinks, such as the one by Ice*Amsterdam on Museumplein from 16 November 2019 until 2 February 2020. DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Immerse yourself in art

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14 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Your Trip

The Rijksmuseum’s library is a booklover’s paradise – home to the most art history texts in the Netherlands.

For a city better known for beer, specialty wine bars are on the rise. Put Wester Wijnfabriek in Westerpark, GlouGlou in De Pijp and Bar Parry in the Jordaan at the top of your list. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Warm up in a cosy wine bar

Admire light displays from the water

This city built on water is best experienced from a boat. Take a canal cruise at night and you’ll get to see the captivating light installations of Amsterdam Light Festival, which runs until 19 January 2020. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day: iamsterdam.com/ canalcruise or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card.

hours in Amsterdam

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers. IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Scope out prestigious addresses

Delve into the history of life on the canals at the Museum of the Canals (Het Grachtenhuis), or get to know the Keizersgracht canal’s most famous residents at Museum Van Loon (both free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Get into the festive spirit

Catch a concert of Christmas classics at the Royal Concertgebouw, a ballet at the National Opera & Ballet, or the circus at the Royal Theatre Carré. DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Spot the three St. Andrew’s Crosses on monuments all around the city, often (incorrectly) associated with x-rated.

hours in Amsterdam

Experience a magical Christmas village

Soak up the festive atmosphere at the Christmas markets in Amsterdam and the surrounding region. Haarlem’s Christmas market on 7 and 8 December is a local favourite.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

See the city sparkle

GASSAN diamonds have been perfecting their craftsmanship for nearly four centuries. During a Diamond Experience Tour (free with the I amsterdam City Card), you’ll learn about Amsterdam’s history with the gemstone and see jewellers at work in the atelier.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Eat cookies worth queuing for

Van Stapele Koekmakerij is a tiny bakery serving only one type of cookie, made from a traditional recipe. The decadent chocolate treats are served fresh from the oven with their white chocolate centre melting hot. DURATION: 30 MINS

See a snow-capped castle

It doesn’t snow every winter, but Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot (free with the I amsterdam City Card) is even more majestic when it does. This extraordinary piece of history built around 1280 is complete with a moat, drawbridge and expansive gardens. DURATION: 4 HOURS

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Young Rembrandt - Rising Star Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden

November 2, 2019 – February 9, 2020

From experiments to masterpiece: discover and recognise global star Rembrandt in his earliest work. His boldness and potential are already evident. Leiden, where Rembrandt ﬁrst saw the light. iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

Man in Oriental Costume (‘The Noble Slav’), 1632, Rembrandt. Bequest of William K. Vanderbilt, 1920. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. advertentie half liggend.indd 2

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Free entrance museums Free canal cruise Free public transport and more

iamsterdam.com/citycard

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Where to indulge in Amsterdam

18 20 21 22 24 25 26 28 29 30 33

Ode to Cheese Asian Eateries Food Bars Shopping in Centrum Show-stopping Dining Fine Dining Shopping in South Perfect Pancakes Amsterdam Gift Guide Shopping in West Dam Life

Bar-Restaurant IJver

In a former shipbuilding hangar on the NDSM Wharf, a new Franco-Dutch eatery combines all that industrial heritage (think eight-metre high ceilings and burnt steel walls) with cool vintage furniture and a large indoor terrace. The 18-metre long bar features a tiled shipbuilding tableau, 34 copper beer taps and 100 beers by the bottle. SCHEEPSBOUWKADE 72 IJVERAMSTERDAM.NL

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Try a platter of awardwinning vegan cheeses at Mr. & Mrs. Watson (from €7.80).

Eat

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18 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Bistrot des Alpes

This alpine charmer – fittingly kitted out with wood panelling, copper cooking utensils, and even an original French ski-lift – is the only way to go for comforting Savoyard classics. Opt for one of three types of raclette that you toast tableside in a hot coal oven, or a heart-warming tartiflette (a potato gratin with Reblochon, bacon and onions, served with a salad and a slice of smoked ham). There are also four types of fondue, mountain charcuterie sourced from small farms in the Haut-Savoie, superb homemade foie gras and a selection of wines and digestifs from the French Alps. UTRECHTSEDWARSSTRAAT 141 BISTROT-DES-ALPES.NL

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Take home Boska’s copper fondue set (€99.99 at De Mannen van Kaas), which combines Dutch good looks with award-winning heat distribution and an extra. sturdy concrete base.

SPUISTRAAT 330 DEMANNENVANKAAS.NL

Ode to Cheese Considering that Dutch farmers have been making kaas since 400 AD and that this tiny country is still one of the biggest cheese exporters in the world, it’s no surprise that Amsterdam has built a reputation for cheese.

ay ‘Dutch cheese’ and what comes to mind for most visitors are those famous yellow wheels of Gouda. But we’re here to tell you that Amsterdam’s exciting cheese scene offers so much more to explore. There are, in fact, a wide variety of Dutch cheeses in every category, from soft goat’s cheeses and creamy blue-veined specialities to stinky washed-rind cheeses and crystal-studded hard varieties. And, because the Dutch are a nation of kaaskoppen (literally ‘cheese heads’), Amsterdam also happens to be a great place to enjoy cheese from all over the world. But, in a city clogged with cheesy tourist traps, it can be hard to know where to go. Our tip? Look around. If you spot displays of bright green, pink or, gulp, rainbow-hued cheeses, get out! Dutch people don’t eat that stuff. Instead, dear cheese lover, here’s your lifeline to the best Amsterdam has to offer.

For the best and most beautiful cheesecake in town, head to Cheesycakes. UTRECHTSEDWARSSTRAAT 71 CHEESYCAKES.NL

FONDUE by De Kaaskamer

Any of the four varieties of fondue (Dutch, French, Swiss and Mont d’Or) at this winter pop-up by one of Amsterdam’s best cheesemongers will warm you right up. GOSSCHAALKLAAN 7 DEKAASKAMERFONDUE.NL

Kaashandel Kef

You’re in expert hands at this fromagerie with over 60 years’ experience in artisanal French and Dutch cheese. Discover nine (rawmilk) varieties from small-scale producers, paired with wine or craft beer (from €25). VAN DER PEKPLEIN 1B ABRAHAMKEF.NL

Restaurant Bord’Eau When the well-stocked marbletopped cheese trolley in this Michelin-starred restaurant rolls up to your table, a black-gloved cheese sommelier will help you find the five perfect pieces for your plate. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 BORDEAU.NL

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20 | ASIAN EATERIES

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Eat & Drink

Head to Tokyo Ramen Iki for the best chicken ramen in town (or a vegetable-packed vegan option, creamy with. soy, from €12).

Happyhappyjoyjoy

This city’s Indonesian cuisine scene is famous, but Amsterdam also boasts Europe’s oldest Chinatown (do try the legendary steamed oysters at Zeedijk’s Nam Kee, and Peking duck at the floating Sea Palace nearby). Or, for Asian food that’s a little different, try one of these options…

Every last Sunday of the month, brunch at this colourful pan-Asian street food eatery brings bao buns brimming with Peking duck (or crispy chicken, fivespiced pork or fried tofu), spicy Thai fishcakes and steaming bowls of pho (€17.50 pp), plus sriracha-spiked Bloody Marys and yuzu sakes. CEINTUURBAAN 256 HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY.ASIA

Asian Food Fests Blue Pepper

Sample something you won't find easily outside of the Netherlands; the rijsttafel, a celebratory spread of over a dozen dishes, collated in the erstwhile Dutch East Indies. Choose from the mixed, seafood or vegan menu, featuring beautifully cooked, well-balanced dishes such as beef rendang stew, softshell crab and curried jackfruit satay, with wines to match. NASSAUKADE 366 RESTAURANTBLUEPEPPER.COM

Umami by Han

This Asian-fusion spot’s new ‘Five Seasons and Five Flavours of Health’ menu ‘balances yin and yang’ with ‘health tea pairings’ based on 3,500 years of traditional Chinese medicine. OVERTOOM 31 UMAMI-RESTAURANT.COM

Hotel Okura

East expertly meets west at the city’s most Japanese hotel, where kimonoclad waitrons serve premium teas with sweet and savoury treats. Think matcha-yuzu roulade, shirred egg with lemon cream and cured salmon roe (€38 pp). FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 333 OKURA.NL/AFTERNOON-TEA

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Head to Bar Alt for gourmet bar bites and over 100 craft beers to. wash it all down.

Fabulous Food Bars

STADIONPLEIN 103 BAR-ALT.COM

When one drink turns into many, simply make a meal out of the excellent offerings served at some of our favourite food bars.

here was a time when eating at a bar in Amsterdam meant dining on bitterballen (bite-sized croquettes). But as the local drinks landscape has expanded, so too has the diversity of bar bites served. Some of the best food’s to be found in the burgeoning wine bar scene, from artisanal charcuterie and sausage-centric dishes at Worst Wijncafe and a daily ‘pasta deal’ with a glass of house

vin at Alex + Pinard to well-priced premium wines with elevated small plates at Winehouse Somm. But Amsterdam’s other bars aren’t far behind. At Bardak, Arak-inflected cocktails and local craft beers meet Tel Avivian street food, while at bar-restaurant Sjefietshe (pictured) you’ll first be seduced by pisco sours or natural wines and then by the fish burgers and ‘Amsterdam-style’ ceviches and tiraditos.

WORST WIJNCAFE, BARENTSZSTRAAT 171, DEWORST.NL * ALEX + PINARD, DAPPERSTRAAT 10, ALEXPINARD.NL WINEHOUSE SOMM, BAFFINSTRAAT 1, WINEHOUSESOMM.NL * BARDAK, FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 12, BARDAK.NL SJEFIETSHE, VAN OSTADESTRAAT 1, SJEFIETSHE.NL

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22 | SHOPPING IN CENTRUM

De Wallen * Haarlemmerdijk * Negen Straatjes * Jordaan * Utrechtsestraat

Centre of Attention Loaded with local and international names in design, art and fashion, central Amsterdam has true glocal appeal.

he famous canal-straddling Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’), adjacent Jordaan area as well as Haarlemmerstraat/Haarlemmerdijk and varied Utrechtsestraat encompass perhaps the most picturesque parts of the Centre, with its 17th-century canals, doll-like leaning houses and narrow, meandering lanes. Should you be in the mood to hunt them all down, the area is home to an astonishing number of niche shops, including vintage, denim and fashion boutiques, local design outlets and specialist food stores. Meanwhile, the Red Light District may be better known for flogging flesh than fashion (or tea, or trendy homewares), but there are some surprisingly good shopping streets to be found in the area.

Niche next-gen parfumier David Benedek’s seductive Rouge Smoking is exclusively available in Amsterdam at Babassu Beauty Boutique. SPUISTRAAT 207 BABASSU.NL

Hart & Ruyt

Hart & Ruyt’s geometric glass and metal terrariums, candle holders and lamps are sure to become real eye-catchers in your home. Made on-site in the small Amsterdam atelier and shop, it’s all surprisingly affordable (with prices starting at €59). Most designs come in your choice of copper or black metal. HAZENSTRAAT 70 HARTRUYT.NL

Nubikk flagship store Known for its classic nubuck sneakers and trendy boots (M/F) with a clean look and comfortable fit, the local footwear brand opened its first retail location in the famous Negen Straatjes shopping district back in the summer. A bright, white interior creates maximum impact for minimalist Dutch footwear displays. KEIZERSGRACHT 233 NUBIKK.COM

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This year, Van Soest’s signature Sinterklaas chocolate letters are decorated with gold flakes (from €8.25).

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Arte & Zayne Blend Store

Rachel Blauwendraat (31), fourthgeneration co-owner of Van Soest Chocolatier

Smell, taste and experience some two dozen hand-picked organic teas at the recently opened blend store of Dutch tea brand Arte & Zayne, inspired by ‘the art of picking’ the perfect teas and the ‘joy of drinking’ them. OUDE HOOGSTRAAT 12 ARTEZAYNE.COM

AWARD-WINNING SHOPPING STREET:

Rising rents have recently uprooted many smaller stores on this popular shopping street (and its adjacent sister), but you can still find a great range here, from fashion boutiques to gourmet specialists, bookstores and toy shops. There’s also an organic farmer’s market on Wednesdays on Haarlemmerplein at the end of the street.

This parrot pot (€35) from Store Without a Home is a pretty polly indeed. HAARLEMMERDIJK 26 STOREWITHOUTAHOME.NL

Haarlemmerdijk

‘My mom started our first shop on the Utrechtsestraat – an authentic shopping street with no chains and tourist shops – following in the footsteps of her father and grandfather, who were also in confectionery. As a child, I woke up smelling chocolate and saw my family make everything from scratch. Today, we use our own chocolate melange, we still temper by hand, and we don’t add any sugar to our fillings. When you visit, you will see us making everything fresh; what’s on display is our stock, and it sells fast. Our selection is a mix of bestsellers, like my grandfather’s droomkei, a nutty bonbon, and our Florentines, as well as new flavours like our rose pepper bonbons. We are also known for our seasonal releases like our signature Sinterklaas chocolate letters (above), which we’ve decorated with gold flakes this year.’ FREDERIKSPLEIN 1A VANSOEST-AMSTERDAM.NL

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24 | BLOW THAT BUDGET

Eat

At Daalder, contemporary cuisine with an Asian twist translates to delightful dishes such as monkfish with jasmine, hazelnut and citrus. LINDENGRACHT 90 DAALDERAMSTERDAM.NL

Show Stoppers

Whether you’re looking for a slice of old-world charm, a secreted-away romantic boîte, a veg-led fine dining restaurant, or that fab foodie place to take your most gastronomic friends, these fine establishments will not disappoint.

Set in a former Jordaan café, this casual fine dining restaurant has racked up the plaudits since its renovation. The relaxed setting and chef Dennis Huwaë’s creative cooking make this a great spot for an evening out with food-loving friends (from €69 for a fivecourse Chef’s Menu). LINDENGRACHT 90 DAALDERAMSTERDAM.NL

Restaurant Graphite

Restaurant Daalder

Restaurant Vermeer

Expert service and luxuriously intimate booths for two make this ‘speak-easy restaurant’ an ideal date night location. Chef-owner Peter Gast’s cooking combines contrast, texture and an element of surprise to create beautiful food (tasting menus from €100). NO WALK-INS; BOOK VIA GRAPHITE.AMSTERDAM

Restaurant Bord’Eau

Talented young chef Bas van Kranen is becoming known for his subtle touch and surprising combinations. No matter what you choose from the seasonal or a la carte menus, this Michelin-starred classic remains a fine option for discerning diners who take pleasure in even the smallest details (from €90 for a five-course Chef’s Menu).

For artfully presented produce-forward plates (think beetroot with blackberry and verveine, pictured) turn to Michelin-starred Vermeer, where Executive Chef Chris Naylor was named Gault & Millau’s ‘Vegetable Chef of the Year 2019’ (from €70 for a fourcourse Chef’s Menu). PRINS HENDRIKKADE 59-72 RESTAURANTVERMEER.NL

NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 2-14 BORDEAU.NL

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Shio koji-marinated quail with cashew-chicken butter sauce, served with pearl barley and roasted wild mushrooms on the side at WILS.

Wood-Fired Wonder What happens when you combine a Michelin-starred chef, sweet potato, pecans, artisan Dutch apple butter, three grills and an open fire? You get a sticky marshmallow, WILS-style, served on a stick.

f you don’t want to miss out on one of the hottest new stars on Amsterdam’s bright-burning culinary scene but all you want to do in this weather is curl up by a fire, we may have a solution for you. Head to Dutch golden boy Chef Joris Bijdendijk's new wood-fired venture, which opened in October by the old Olympic Stadium. There, you’ll be coddled with casual fine dining that has the kind of subtle

smoky edge only cooking on an open fire can bring (we’re told they use a mix of beech and ash). The flames improve the flavour of everything on the menu (from €40 for a three-course lunch), from the crusty bread and oysters flambéed in beef fat to charred Brussels sprouts and roast root vegetables with fermented beurre blanc. STADIONPLEIN 26 RESTAURANTWILS.NL

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If the cute designs of Dutch kids brand Donsje don’t give you the feels, knowing that part of the profits help educate kids in Kenyan slums should.

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WILLEMSPARKWEG 26 DONSJE.COM

26 | SOUTH-SIDE SHOPPING

CODA

Internationally renowned beauty entrepreneur Barbara Kerseboom has given Amsterdam its own beauty apothecary, CODA, short for Cosmetics Drugstore Amsterdam. In a clean, serene space on the increasingly relevant Gerard Douplein, there’s a curated collection of beautifully packaged ecoconscious drugstore classics – think Glossworks vegan nail polishes, Einhorn condoms, biocol health essentials, The Scent Doctor fragrances, Brandt soy candles, and Carl & Johan tattoo care products – all at an accessible price point. GERARD DOUPLEIN 12 CODACOSMETICS.NL

Zuid * Museum Quarter * De Pijp

Southern Belle

Simon’s Tableware

Simon’s Tafel (Simon’s Table) is a new gift shop in Zuid, run by Ido Simon and his wife Christianne, filled with exclusive stone and tableware that makes ideal gifts. They stock chopping boards, beautiful artificial flowers, lamps and small furniture pieces from Portugal, Japan and China. In short, everything for your festive table. Special offer for readers of this magazine: bring a photo of this page (on your phone) to Simon’s Tafel and claim your 10% discount! ZEILSTRAAT 44-46 SIMONSTAFEL.NL

From centuries-old art to the latest designer gear, elegant Zuid offers it all.

msterdam’s answer to London’s South Kensington or New York’s Museum Mile is home to some of the world’s best art museums, but also many of the city’s most exclusive shops and its most well-heeled inhabitants. If you’re looking to burn a hole in your platinum credit card, join the WAGS in

the area’s most famous shopping street, the P.C. Hooftstraat, or make a beeline for the premium fashion boutiques along nearby Cornelis Schuytstraat. Bargain shoppers and trend lovers mustn’t miss the neighbourhood known as De Pijp, where the famous Albert Cuyp Market stands adjacent to achingly hip shopping streets.

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Designed by Tanja Deurloo, the new Salle Privée fragrance Concorde is rich with Armagnac, pink pepper and wood (€190 at Perfume Lounge).

The Cold Pressed Juicery Whether you’re starting your year off on a health kick, detoxing after a brutal bender, or simply thirsty for fresh juice, this corner shop has it all: over a dozen cold-pressed juices, ten superfood smoothies, a variety of raw wraps, smoothie bowls, vegan salad jars and plant-based soups as well as ‘superfood lattes’ and ‘guilt-free treats’. WILLEMSPARKWEG 8 THECOLDPRESSEDJUICERY.COM

Tanja Deurloo (52), perfume designer and founder of Perfume Lounge ‘Even as a child I was filled with bewonderment at the impact and power of the sense of smell, so it’s no wonder that I work as a perfume designer and scent expert and own an haute parfumerie parfumerie. We offer a curated collection of quality fragrances that you won’t find elsewhere in Amsterdam – like Satori, Nicolai Paris, Strangelove NYC and The Zoo – and we take pride in the expert personal advice we can offer and our bespoke perfume service. For our recent tenth anniversary, I worked with talented Italian perfumers to create two limited edition perfumes. It’ll appeal to a customer looking for something special and who appreciates independent parfumiers. That’s also why we’ve deliberately chosen not to be in a busy shopping street. Here, I have the space for a downstairs lab, a library, a scent garden and the boutique.’

For cult finds from around the world, like Benamôr’s rich all-natural body butters (€22), head to &klevering. JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 19A KLEVERING.NL

BEST PREMIUM SHOPPING STREET:

P.C. Hooftstraat

You’ll find all the high fashion names – from Chanel, Gucci, Prada and Hermès to Fendi and Louis Vuitton – on Amsterdam’s poshest shopping street, which is colloquially known as the ‘P.C.’ (pronounced ‘pay-say’). Or, for high-end thrills of the glittering kind head to Gassan Boutique, which has traded in diamonds, jewellery and luxury timepieces for over 70 years.

INSIDER INTERVIEW

CORNELIS KRUSEMANSTRAAT 25 PERFUMELOUNGE.NL

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Terrific traditional French crêpes (from €6) and galettes (buckwheat pancakes) are prepared by a Breton chef at cosy Cocotte.

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SPUISTRAAT 127 COCOTTE-HEXAGONE.COM

28 | WORLD OF PANCAKES

Perfect Pancakes In the Netherlands, pancakes were once considered kids’ food, often enjoyed as a family meal, yet rarely before noon. But the proliferation of American breakfast pancakes across the nations’ menus changed all that, and pancakes from all over the world are now pumped out at all hours as the comfort carb reaches fetish status.

Dumplings

De Pannenkoekenboot

For real-deal jianbing (and dumplings) seek out this kiosk on the edge of Westerpark, where a Beijing-born chef cooks the crispy Chinese breakfast crêpes fresh to order. Choose from vegetarian, duck, roast pork, bacon or sausage (from €5.80).

Indulge in an all-you-can-eat Dutch pancake feast (from €14.50) while cruising the IJ River. Finish your plate-sized pannenkoeken (bacon, apple or plain) with your choice of toppings, and do bring the littles – there’s a ball pool in the hold.

NASSAUPLEIN 60 DUMPLINGS-CHINESE.NL

MS VAN RIEMSDIJKWEG PANNENKOEKENBOOT.NL

Japanese Pancake World

Madam Pancake

With toppings ranging from ‘Berry Blues’ to ‘Oreo’ and even ‘Eggs Benedict’, you’re sure to be seduced at this Red Light District pancake parlour. But the American-style stacks here (from €8.95) needn’t be a guilty pleasure. Every menu item can be made to order with whole wheat, matcha, oats or vegan/gluten-free batter.

For authentic okonomiyaki (from €11.50) look no further than this Jordaan-based specialist, where you’ll find three regional varieties of savoury Japanese mountain potato pancakes with various toppings. TWEEDE EGELANTIERSDWARSSTRAAT 24A JAPANESEPANCAKEWORLD.COM

LANGE NIEZEL 18 MADAMPANCAKE.COM

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A walnut Wooden Amsterdam bicycle bell engraved with the city’s map rings true as an ideal souvenir gift (€29.95 at I amsterdam Store). DE RUIJTERKADE 28A-D IAMSTERDAM.COM

Gift Guide DUTCH-STYLE |

Cheeky chocolate

Christmas spirit

Supposedly based on William of Orange’s original 1689 recipe uncovered in the British Library’s rare book section, Gin 1689 (€35.99 at Gall & Gall) will add class to your cocktail.

Create a custom-designed bar with the Tony’s Chocolonely Chocomachine. Choose your favourite type of chocolate and three add-ins (think pineapple, pretzels or popping sugar) then design your own wrapper (€7.50 at the Tony’s Chocolonely Super Store or online). OUDEBRUGSTEEG 15 TONYSCHOCOLONELY.COM

VARIOUS LOCATIONS, GALL.NL

Forget those clichéd clogs and tired tulips; these gifts are all Dutch-designed, yet delightfully different. We’ve rounded up ten presents to pick up while you’re in Amsterdam.

JACOB VAN LENNEPSTRAAT 72W BINDWEEFSELBAR.NL

Bright bunny This LED garland light with the iconic Dutch cartoon character Miffy (Nijntje in Dutch) brings comfort and joy (€24.99, De Winkel van Nijntje).

SCHELDESTRAAT 61 DEWINKELVANNIJNTJE.NL

Waste not, want not

Clean up your gift-giving game with circular Dutch design, courtesy of Dirk van der Kooij’s Melting Pot Table, made from reclaimed synthetics (€3,380 at The Frozen Fountain). PRINSENGRACHT 645 FROZENFOUNTAIN.NL

Scent-sational

The bright Otentic brand store offers an alternative way to find the perfect perfume (from €59) for yours truly. Pick from 73 unisex compositions in eight styles, all created by an eighthgeneration French parfumier, aided by interactive touchscreens, glass balloon snifters and expert staff.

Glam rock

For relaxing facial massages and a gorgeous glow, treat the beauty lover in your life to Lois Lee’s award-winning rose quartz Beauty Roller (€45 at De Bindweefselmassage Bar).

BINNENHOF 43 OTENTICPERFUMES.COM

Fashion plate

For the lover of contemporary Dutch art with a whimsical nod to the past, there’s Magolie et les Pigeons (€4,800 at Hillywood Art). HILLYWOODART.COM

Secret city

Part coffee-table tome and part city guide, MENDO’s just-published Amsterdam Uncovered (€45) offers ‘a portrait of a metropolitan village, compiled by the tastemakers, photographers and artists who contribute to this city’s appeal’.

Precious present At the BY1OAK boutique, you’ll find customisable local handmade women’s jewellery with charms and precious stones (from €22.95). Friday afternoons only, or by appointment. PRINSENGRACHT 138-O BY1OAK.COM

BERENSTRAAT 11, MENDO.NL

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30 | SHOPPING IN WEST

Overtoombuurt * Bilderdijkstraat * Hallenbuurt

Wild about West Comfortably away from the crowds, a young demographic ensures some sensational shopping in West.

ith almost half of its population aged between 25 and 44, it’s no surprise that West has become one of Amsterdam’s most exciting and popular districts. Affordable rents in parts of this large borough mean there are eclectic indie stores galore, and vintage gems and experimental rough diamonds to unearth if you know where to look. West is also home to several authentic Amsterdam street markets, of which Ten Kate Market is a favourite. You’ll also find trendy boutiques and urban apparel aplenty, and Amsterdam’s famous De Hallen cultural complex, home to local makers and sustainable shakers as well as an all-too-popular food hall.

Levain et le vin

This West-based wild sourdough bakery-cumnatural wine shop was canonised overnight as the new It-gourmet store by local foodies. It was founded by a Ballymaloe Cooking School alumnus, who’s followed internships at Ottolenghi in London and Relea in Copenhagen, with stints at some of Amsterdam’s best-loved restaurants. JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 168 LEVAINETLEVIN.COM

Daily Paper

For unisex hoodies, M/F streetwear and baby clothes with serious street cred, look no further than this popular local label. The brand’s signature designs combine its founder’s heritage and passion for fashion to create a look of contemporary cool with an African edge. BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 131, DAILYPAPERCLOTHING.COM

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Add some spark to your life with an oversized Archivist Gallery matchbox (€16.95 at Gekaapt) KINKERSTRAAT 316-324 GEKAAPT.NL

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At Wildernis, it’s all about greenifying the city one plant at a time. This locally crafted HALO hanging planter (€29.95) is a stylish way to start. BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 165F, WILDERNISAMSTERDAM.NL

The ultimate clear or rose quartz guasha stone for home use (€49.95 at De BindBar). weefselmassage Bar

Stieglitz

Don’t miss the brand boutique of this vibrant Dutch women’s fashion label, which according to Vogue, ‘dominates Amsterdam’s street style’. Like most of Pien Stieglitz’s designs, the new F/W19 Hongdae South Korea collection was inspired by her world travels. The brand’s eclectic clothing is aimed at ‘idiosyncratic women’ who aren’t afraid of colour and bold hand-painted patterns. And, thanks to the recent launch of Stieglitz’s first kids’ collection, you can now also shop matching mini & me outfits. PALAMEDESSTRAAT 3 STIEGLITZ.NL

BEST UPCOMING SHOPPING STREET:

Bilderdijkstraat

An increasing number of interesting specialists are tucked between discount retailers, sleepy travel agents and Dutch chain stores on this fast-gentrifying EastWest thoroughfare. From an organic bakery, urban plant store and well-curated vintage shop to trendy concept stores, streetwear boutiques and sneaker stores, you’ll find it all on busy Bilderdijkstraat.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Charley Huf (31), founder of De Bindweefselmassage Bar, a deep tissue massage salon ‘I’ve always loved West, even when it was a bit rawer than it is now. It’s still a little undiscovered, the energy is uplifting, and it offers a nice melting pot of different types of entrepreneurs and shops. The big chains and luxury stores have not yet invaded this neighbourhood, so when I decided to open my salon, I immediately checked out available locations here. We specialise in deep tissue massage, a technique that can be super-effective, but only when performed by a specialist. Our experts analyse what your skin truly needs to improve its condition and rejuvenate your look. We also offer special treatments combining deep tissue massage, guasha (a quartz tool) and sculptural facelifting techniques. Our customers are people who want to look their best but prefer to stay away from injectables and other unnatural anti-ageing methods.’ JACOB VAN LENNEPSTRAAT 72W BINDWEEFSELBAR.NL

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Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life LAUREN COMITEAU |

Water, Water Everywhere Amsterdam, dubbed the ‘Venice of the North’ for its UNESCO World Heritage Canal Ring, features 165 canals flowing through the city for over 100 km (some 60 miles).

ith the connecting Amstel River and the IJ, a former bay best described today as a waterway, Amsterdam is a city not only veined by water, but surrounded by it – itself largely built on land reclaimed from the sea. The world renowned Dutch prowess when it comes to managing water is born from centuries of experience, including the 17th century that saw the building of the city’s Canal Ring during – and fuelling – the country’s Golden Age. Legend has it, it’s even given rise to the country’s characteristic Polder Model, wherein consensus-building is the norm in a society where everyone depends on each other to help plug the leaky dike. With water running through the veins of Amsterdammers, it’s no surprise that when land gets tight, people take

to the water. Following World War II, and again in the 1960s and ’70s, more affordable houseboats appeared on the city’s canals. You’d have a hard time recognizing the former transport ships that were converted into some of the more than 2,500 houseboats moored in Amsterdam today, many of them modern architectural gems rivalling anything found on dry land. The city boasts the world’s only floating flower market, a relic from the days when the majority of Amsterdam’s trade was conducted via its canals. It’s also home to the world’s only floating cat shelter. And a former bajseboot, or prison boat, that in a past life served as a detention centre for illegal immigrants, is today a luxury not-for-profit ‘floatotel’. Although it has sailed into its new home in London, the aptly-

named Good Hotel continues its Amsterdam tradition of training and re-integrating long-term unemployed locals. I recently visited the world’s first floating farm in the nearby metropolis of Rotterdam, where 35 Dutch MeuseRhine-Issel cows call the port of Rotterdam home. They feed off clippings from local parks and golf courses, and even beer broth from nearby breweries, supplying that city with milk and manure in return. The world is ‘shrinking and sinking’, its founder Peter van Wingerden told me of his idea to use the city’s ample waterways to grow food closer to the people who consume it. ‘We only use water for transportation. We can do such much better.’ It’s an idea Amsterdam’s sustainability forebearers knew all too well.

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TOP 5

I amsterdam Store Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side

➊

➌ ➊ GIN SNIPPERS In these bottles by Spek Amsterdam, you will find wood chips made from used gin barrels. Pour some gin, genever or vodka into the bottle, and the wood chips will release their flavour. It’s like aging your liqueur in a wooden barrel. €12.50 STADSPLANK The Stadsplank (‘City Plank’) is a chopping board made from a felled city tree. Each unique board is engraved to tell you exactly what species it was and where it grew. €€29.95

➌ HEARTWARMING These V.at the City cushions are by Dutch designer Veronika Utas, eco-friendly and made in Amsterdam. Small €60 | Large €100

SPICE IT UP Every year chocolate makers Tony Chocolonely release their limited editions.This year, they created three new chocolate bars: white chocolate, chai and coconut for the yogi with a sweet tooth; milk-chocolate honeycomb and thyme for the foodies; and dark chocolate, chili fudge with pink pepper for those who like a little spice in their lives. €10.50 POM The girls behind Amsterdam brand POM created a new collection full of captivating patterns and high-quality fabrics. The current collection is inspired by old prints of exotic places, animals and plants that the design duo found in an antique book in Castle Twickel. €79.95

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Dates for your Amsterdam agenda

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 Exhibitions 38 Collections 39 Festivals & Events 42 On Stage 44 On Screen 45 Classical 47 Interview Hans Brouwer 48 Pop & Rock 50 LGBTI 51 Clubbing 52 Family Fun

Skalar Skalar drops down at Westergasfabriek for a kinetic art experience like no other. A meditation on the fundamental nature and essence of basic human emotions, this audio-visual installation is an aweinspiring synchronisation of light, sound and mirrors to create an unforgettable experience. 10 JANUARY-5 FEBRUARY GASHOUDER, WESTERGASFABRIEK

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Exhibitions 36 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Intimate Audrey

udrey Hepburn, one of the most iconic women of the 20th century, is the focus of this lovingly created exhibition. Curated by her son, Sean Hepburn Ferrer, this multi-layered homecoming exhibition considers Audrey’s life as a young girl, a wife and a mother with an emphasis on the woman behind the legend. Born in Brussels, raised in the Netherlands with a short 18-month stint in England, Audrey came to prominence for her award-winning roles in films such as Roman Holiday, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Funny Face. The idea for this exhibition came to Sean when it became clear to him that ‘people were moved by Audrey’s humanitarian work and role as a Goodwill Ambassador for UNICEF’. It was this personal connection that he wanted

to highlight in what has been described as a ‘living biography’. Speaking warmly of his mother, Sean notes how for many people, Audrey’s warmth made people feel as if she was ‘one of us’. Intimate Audrey brings together unpublished photographs, memorabilia, gowns and accessories that highlight her as a woman living a humble life. Also included are never before seen

MUSIC FROM AN UNKNOWN SOURCE This double act exhibition brings together Sigmar Polke’s work Musik ungeklärter Herkunft (Music from an Unknown Source) with musician, director and cyclist Blaudzun. The latter was commissioned by Cobra, resulting in a mix of sound and vision pieces.

CHILDREN’S GAMES Eye Filmmuseum presents Children’s Games, a series of scenes of children at play around the world. Known for his playful approach to art, Francis Alÿs’s engaging ongoing series shows how children’s creative spirit can turn simple, ordinary things into unlikely and fantastical universes.

14 DECEMBER-5 APRIL COBRA MUSEUM

19 DECEMBER-8 MARCH EYE FILMMUSEUM

fashion drawings, humanitarian writings and poignant videos adding to the heartwarming ambience of the exhibition, where multiple elements come together to make the audience feel as if they are a part of her extended family. Don’t miss this intimate portrait of an influential legend at Beurs van Berlage. UNTIL 31 JANUARY, BEURS VAN BERLAGE

AMSTERDAM, CITY OF DIAMONDS Learn all about the heyday and decline of Amsterdam’s diamond industry in this compelling exhibition. It looks at how the city’s Jews were largely responsible for the diamond industry soon after their arrival in the city in 1600. UNTIL 1 MARCH JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER

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What a Genderful World Tropenmuseum is bang on trend with this extensive exhibition exploring the wide world of gender. Learn about how traditional ‘ladies and gentlemen’ greetings are being replaced with more inclusive terms, how the colour pink came to be associated with girls, why Fijian policemen wear skirts, and much more. For example, did you know there is a single pronoun for he/she/it in Turkish? Or that in Mexico there’s a third gender? It’s all about selfexpression at this festive exhibition. UNTIL 23 AUGUST, TROPENMUSEUM

Humania

If you’ve ever wanted handson insight into the wonder of humankind, then Humania at NEMO is where you’ll want to head. This new exhibition considers human attraction, how the body is constructed, and how it changes as it ages. Interactive elements put you to work and include both physical and mental challenges. An in-depth look at biology, sociology and psychology reveals who we are, what our differences are, and how we’re alike. A central part of the exhibition is a colossal new work by Florentijn Hofman. Suspended and stretching to 8.5 metres, the sculpture was inspired by one of his children and is set to become an instant icon at NEMO.

ONGOING, NEMO

ADORNED The fast-paced fashion world is increasingly reacting to social movements, beauty ideals, politics and diversity. Adorned brings together a younger generation of image-makers who are moving beyond standard ideas of glamour to encompass a more everyday and inclusive representation of fashion. 13 DECEMBER-11 MARCH, FOAM

Outside Fashion The fabulous world of fashion is the focus of this expansive exhibition at Huis Marseille. For the first time ever, the public can delve into the archives of Palais Galliera, Paris’s fashion museum, to explore the world of fashion photography from 1900 through to 1969. Charting the history of the genre, the exhibition looks at developments in the medium, the move from studio photography to al fresco locations, and the changing position and face of women over the years. 7 DECEMBER-8 MARCH HUIS MARSEILLE

‘When I need to clear my head, I walk to the Miracle Garden (themiraclegarden.nl) in Erasmuspark. Here, artist and photographer Elspeth Diederix runs a kind of open-air studio, a laboratory for the art of gardening and experiments in floral photography. There are always a bunch of funky flowers in bloom to admire. Afterwards, I top it off with a delicious scone at Terrasmus, on the other side of the park. This little corner is prime real estate for petting other peoples’ dogs, which is great if you’re me or literally any other human with a beating heart.’

INSIDER TIP

Benjamin van Gaalen (31), press officer at Huis Marseille

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Collections

This porcelain horse is one of many intriguing objects on display at the Amsterdam Museum.

38 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Save As…

How to collect the city? With over 100,000 items in its collection, Amsterdam Museum is home to intriguing objects that paint a picture of the city’s history and inhabitants. The focus of this exhibition is on the act of collecting, and what a museum about a city should collect. Featuring everything from odd trinkets to iconic works, and strands of human hair to valuable paintings, the exhibition takes a curious look at objects and the weird and wonderful stories they tell. UNTIL 1 MARCH, AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

The Feast of Saint Nicholas Each December, the Dutch celebrate the feast of Saint Nicholas, who is also known as Sinterklaas. This painting depicts the joy (and sadness) experienced after his annual visit. In the centre, a happy girl has a new doll and a bucket of treats – the rewards for good behaviour. Her naughty brother stands to the side crying as his sister holds up an empty shoe, revealing nothing was left for him. A few feet away, a toddler clutches a massive gingerbread man shaped like the saint. At the time, this was considered a sign of Catholic worship and not allowed by Protestant authorities, who banned the baking of bread or cake resembling people in 1655.

COURTESAN (AFTER EISEN), VINCENT VAN GOGH, 1887 Van Gogh had a deep love of Japanese art, though he never visited the country. In this painting, which was inspired by the cover of an issue of Paris illustré, he used bold outlines and bright colours to create the feel of a woodcut print. The woman’s elaborate hairstyle and obi indicate her status as a courtesan, and she seems to hover over a lush background filled with bamboo, cranes and frogs. However, the inclusion of these creatures might’ve involved a double entendre on Van Gogh’s part, as their names in French were also slang terms for prostitutes. VAN GOGH MUSEUM

RIJKSMUSEUM

VASE OF FLOWERS IN A WINDOW, AMBROSIUS BOSSCHAERT, C. 1618 Though it might feel as though spring is a lifetime away, this bright and beautiful still life will tide you over until the warmer months. Each blossom is depicted in meticulous detail and it seems you could reach into the painting and pluck a fiery tulip of your very own. MAURITSHUIS

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Festivals & Events TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

National Tulip Day

atch the city’s canals set aglow during the Amsterdam Light Festival. Every year, hundreds of artists from around the world vie to have their luminous sculptures displayed in Amsterdam’s historic centre. This year’s theme is ‘Disrupt!’ and there are sure to be pieces that challenge the way you think and feel. You’re free to wander on your own, but there are also recommended routes for walking and biking, and some canal cruises offer special journeys tailored around the installations.

Though winter can be cold and grey, National Tulip Day will brighten things up with a touch of spring! The Dutch tulip season officially begins in January when a beautiful garden is created on Dam Square in the heart of the city with over 200,000 of these iconic blooms. Typically, over 10,000 people drop by to take photos, listen to live music and take home some free flowers, so join the celebration and create a gorgeous bouquet for yourself.

28 NOVEMBER-19 JANUARY, CITY-WIDE

18 JANUARY, DAM SQUARE

Amsterdam Light Festival

TANGOTRAIN Does it take just two to tango? Find out at this week full of dance performances and workshops around Amsterdam where fiery passion is sure to warm the winter days. Both old and new varieties of tango are incorporated into the festival where some 100+ dancing hours are on offer. 24 DECEMBER-1 JANUARY VARIOUS LOCATIONS

IMPROV! If you like your theatre loose you’re going to love IMPRO Amsterdam. It’s all about spontaneity as actors take to the stage with one-off tales. Over the course of a week you can take part in late-night shows, workshops and an open stage, rounding it out with an after party. 25 JANUARY-1 FEBRUARY COMPAGNIETHEATER

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Festivals & Events 40 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

t this electronic dance music festival, the party goes all night long – attendees don’t head out until 7 am the next day! The event transforms Amsterdam RAI into a wild festival filled with crazy costumes, dancers and lights, ensuring an immersive experience that you’ll never forget. Enjoy some big beats in the mirror maze or wander down to the carousel to check out one of the world’s hottest DJs as acrobats twist and spin. There’s also a circus-inspired dress code, and you’re encouraged to wear a crazy outfit to heighten the atmosphere.

21 DECEMBER, AMSTERDAM RAI

Valhalla Festival L&B WHISKY WEEKEND Warm up this January at the L&B Whisky Weekend, where a selection of single malts and blends are yours for the tasting. Old favourites and new whiskeys can be sampled, plus there are guided tours of the glorious former church where the event is held. Proost! 17-18 JANUARY, POSTHOORKERK

JUMPING AMSTERDAM Hi-Yo, Silver! Fans of equestrian events won’t want to miss Jumping Amsterdam, featuring the world’s best riders, show jumping and dressage competitions. There’s also an amazing array of dazzling entertainment and a children’s programme featuring funny, exciting and interactive shows.

WESTERFÊTE Every first Friday of the month is WesterFête at Westergasfabriek. Local businesses open their doors for a fun-filled evening sure to light up the dark winter months. Expects special events, great music, tantalising cocktails and tasty culinary delights including vegan options.

23-26 JANUARY RAI AMSTERDAM

FIRST FRIDAY OF THE MONTH WESTERGASFABRIEK

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Chinese New Year falls on Saturday 25 January – a colourful celebration in Amsterdam’s Chinatown!

Chocoa Chocolate Festival

Indulge your sweet tooth at this delicious celebration of all things chocolate. This two-day event will teach you about the journey from bean to bar, and includes fascinating presentations from industry experts who will discuss hot topics like sustainability. Come with an appetite, as you’ll have a chance to pair chocolate with food, wine, beer and coffee. Little ones are welcome to join, and there’s a special kid’s corner with stories, games and crafts. 22-23 FEBRUARY, BEURS VAN BERLAGE

Sonic Acts Festival

Artists and theorists come together for this unique event, which examines the problems facing our world as well as our collective future. The programme features a variety of events, including lectures from leading scientists and academics. Afterwards, take in a theatrical performance, film screening or pulsing DJ set.

New Year’s Eve parties

Amsterdam comes alive on New Year’s Eve, and parties into the wee hours. Various clubs and venues throughout the city host events like The Grand Ball, which has an urban jungle theme – dress like you’ve escaped from the wilds of some faraway land and enjoy thrilling entertainment. If you’re more of a techno and electronica fan, head to Gashouder for Awakenings and get down with a few hundred fellow revellers. Over in Sloterdijk, Flirterz offers a wild bash filled with pounding tunes, crazy special effects and jaw-dropping entertainment in a carnival-inspired atmosphere. Feeling a little more low key? Grab a friend and head to a cosy bar for drinks and a midnight countdown. 31 DECEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

21-23 FEBRUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

YEAR OF THE RAT It’s the Year of the Rat in 2020, a creature that signifies the start of a new day, wealth and surplus. Celebrate Chinese New Year around Dam Square and the historic Nieuwmarkt/Zeedijk district where a vibrant parade unfolds.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS Throughout December, there is a flurry of Christmas markets adding twinkle and cheer to the Amsterdam area. Funky Xmas Market (15 December, Westergasfabriek), Ice*Village (13-26 December, Museumplein) and Amsterdamsche Kerstmarkt (20-23 December, location TBD) are packed fuller than a stocking on Christmas morning with family-friendly fun. Visit iamsterdam.com/christmasmarkets.

25 JANUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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A failing handbrake is classic nightmare fodder, but in this heart-racing dance performance of the Ghost Writer and the Broken Hand Break it’s a metaphor for freedom.

On Stage

31 JANUARY-1 FEBRUARY, DE BRAKKE GROND

Frida

his ballet by Annabelle Lopez Ochoa – a world premiere at the Dutch National Ballet – is dedicated to one of the most intriguing artists of the twentieth century. Mexican-born Frida Kahlo refused to be bound by social rules or cowed by misfortune, and she zealously championed women’s rights, while her paintings became famous the world over. In this full-length ballet, dancer and choreographer Ochoa expands on an earlier choreography. Broken Wings, created for the English National Ballet, was also inspired by Kahlo. In both works, Ochoa aims for an expressive surrealism in dance that mirrors Kahlo’s art. Using Mexican instruments, British composer Peter Salem has created a longer arrangement of the music he wrote for Broken Wings; the colourful sets and costumes come from internationally acclaimed designer Dieuweke van Reij.

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

6-25 FEBRUARY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

Rodelinda

The Dutch National Opera takes on Händel’s baroque masterpiece, written for the Royal Academy of Music when he was artistic director there. In a plot fuelled by political intrigue, the title character is faced with a stark choice between loyalty to her dead husband and saving her and her son’s life. The tragic story finds expression in arias suffused with grief, bitter yearning and joy, while the claustrophobic set by German director Claus Guth – a vast monochrome house with endless stairways – further amplifies the sense of the oppressiveness.

14-28 JANUARY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

THE WOOD Michiel van Erp directs this adaptation of Jeroen Brouwers’ award-winning novel Het hout about a Catholic monastery and boarding school for boys, where sadism and sexual abuse are rife. The central moral question focuses on a new monk in an outsider position who wants to help the victims but is trapped. SURTITLED 12 & 19 DECEMBER, ITA

THE 39 STEPS Hitchcock’s classic thriller The 39 Steps gets the comic treatment. Watch just four QETC actors play the roles of 139 characters in everything from a thrilling rooftop chase to an onstage plane crash. Add missing fingers and old-fashioned romance and the stage is set for a night of riotous fun. 6-8 DECEMBER CC AMSTEL THEATRE

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Chekhov’s final and ever-popular play portrays the dangers of living in the past. When the widow Ranevskaya returns to her family home in Russia after having lived in Paris, she encounters a changed world. It looks like the family estate may have to be auctioned off because of mounting debt. Then businessman Lopakhin, the son of a former servant, proposes to avoid the sale by cutting down the cherry orchard to build summer cottages that can be rented out. The renowned British actor and director Simon McBurney directs the ITA ensemble in this production, which premiered as part of Holland Festival in June 2019 to much acclaim. SURTITLED 9 & 16 JANUARY, ITA

19 DECEMBER-5 JANUARY ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

VENEZUELA The Batsheva Dance Company inspires lyrical reviews and enthused audiences the world over. Venezuela is the latest choreography by the company’s former artistic director Ohad Naharin. The production showcases a conflicting mix of tender moments and wild outbursts. 22 & 23 JANUARY, ITA

Nutcracker & Mouse King

or its Christmas production, the Dutch National Ballet pulls out all the stops, showcasing all the beauty and pomp that classical ballet has to offer. Its Nutcracker transports the story of the child Clara, who dreams of a magical, fairy tale-like adventure, to a stately Amsterdam canal house. Complete with ice-skaters on the canal, the stage design is grand, the set pieces are grander, and the costumes are glamorous, making this a festive joy for all the family. 14 DECEMBER-1 JANUARY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

The Cherry Orchard

The Wereldkerstcircus (World Christmas Circus) is a stalwart of Amsterdam’s theatrical Christmas programming, and it returns this season for its 35th year at the Royal Theatre Carré. The anniversary show features countless stars of the ring, with performers from 100 different countries coming to Amsterdam to transform Carré back into what it was originally designed to be: a circus ring. The show also includes a premiere visit of Moscow’s The Royal Circus Gia Eradaze, which updates Russian circus traditions with magnificent costumes and breathtaking choreographies and artistry, gaining it the reputation of being the Russian Cirque du Soleil.

World Christmas Circus

A LITTLE LIFE Ivo van Hove and ITA’s adaptation of the Hanya Yanagihara novel of the same name is as compelling and shocking as its source material. The story is that of four male friends and their decades-long relationship, focusing on the introverted Jude, who is secretly battling grief and demons stemming from emotional neglect and sexual abuse in his childhood. SURTITLED 12 & 19 DECEMBER AND 13 & 20 FEBRUARY, ITA

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On Screen 44 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

International Queer and Migrant Film Festival For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

earn about sexual diversity in migrant communities around the world at this colourful film festival, which includes world premieres and special events. Many of the films explore sociology and local LGBT+ scenes around the globe, looking at the lives of groups that often exist below the radar.

4-8 DECEMBER, DE BALIE

Wasted! The Story of Food Waste

Little Women

Hosted by the late Anthony Bourdain, this documentary explores the global crisis that sees over 1.3 billion kilograms of food being thrown away each year. Fortunately, creative pioneers are finding ways to tackle the problem in farms and kitchens alike. After the screening, there will be a talk and some delicious bites (of course).

The latest adaptation of Louisa May Alcott’s acclaimed novel, Little Women is directed by Greta Gerwig (whose screenplay for Lady Bird received an Oscar nod) and has an impressive cast including Emma Watson and Saoirse Ronan. With a decidedly feminist spirit, it tells the story of four sisters from a poor but kind family negotiating life and love in 1860s New England. Though this is definitely one young teens will enjoy, it offers something for viewers of every age.

5 FEBRUARY, MELKWEG

30 JANUARY, CINEMAS ACROSS AMSTERDAM

LETHAL WEAPON Let Mel Gibson’s mullet in Lethal Weapon entertain you this holiday season. It’s business in the front, party in the back as he plays a cop on the hunt for a killer helped by his no-nonsense partner. Afterwards, 4B2M – ‘four brothers, two mothers’ – will be spinning tunes.

LA BOHÈME The Royal Opera’s version of Puccini’s masterwork, which tells the story of a love affair between a poor poet and seamstress in 19th-century Paris, will screen live at The Movies. With lavish sets, beautiful costumes and sweeping arias, it has everything you can ask for and starts with a brief introduction. You’ll even receive a glass of prosecco upon arrival and a snack during the intermission.

28 DECEMBER, EYE FILMMUSEUM

29 JANUARY, THE MOVIES

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Classical

At Concertgebouw, pianist Jan Vayne joins the Bach Choir & Orchestra for a selection of classical Christmas tunes (19 and 24 December) and it’s Händel’s Messiah by the Netherlands Handel Society (23 December) and the Bach Orchestra of the Netherlands (22, 26 and 28 December).

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n 23 and 24 December, the Muziekgebouw continues its annual tradition of the Kerstspel, in which choir students aged 4-21 sing traditional Dutch and western European carols. Earlier in the month, there is a Latin American touch to the Christmas programming with Música Temprana’s Misa Criolla (20 December), and Concerto Copenhagen plays Corelli’s Christmas Concerto and other Italian baroque works (21 December). On 14 December, it’s Bach’s Christmas Oratorio, performed by the Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra and Choir. There’s more of that across town: at Concertgebouw by Collegium Vocale Gent (16 December) and by the Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin and the Netherlands Chamber Choir (18 December), and in the Waalse Kerk by Amsemble (parts I-III; 14 December). The Vondelkerk hosts a magical evening with Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker and other works (8 December); and the Amstelkerk presents its annual Erard Ensemble concert, which features a bit of Bach, a bit of Schubert and the as-yet-secret ‘Christmas mix’ (17 December).

Bach Choir & Orchestra – Mozart’s Requiem

Christmas concerts

Combining dramatic, deeply felt mourning, terror and grief with a sweeping sense of hope, lightness and faith, Mozart’s Requiem is among his most emotional and moving works. Written for an anonymous contractor in the months preceding the composer’s death, it was to remain unfinished. Pieter Jan Leusink and his Bach Choir & Orchestra perform the work with their usual exuberance. Mozart’s Coronation Mass and Allegri’s otherworldly Miserere mei are also on the programme. 9, 15 & 16 FEBRUARY

WORDS & MUSIC This two-day festival takes Morton Feldman’s rarely performed Samuel Beckett, Words & Music as its topical thread. It features dramatic monologues, music and sound experiments, interdisciplinary theatre and installations, with Asko|Schönberg, Cappella Amsterdam and more.

STRING QUARTET BIENNALE In an attempt to define the role of the string quartet in today’s music, this festival explores traditions and experiments, the familiar and the new. The line-up includes Quartets Artemis, Jerusalem and Pavel Haas, plus Calefax and the Netherlands Chamber Choir.

11 & 12 JANUARY MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

25 JANUARY-1 FEBRUARY, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

COLLEGIUM 1704 – SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA Alessandro Stradella, a contemporary of Corelli, wrote this sweeping oratorio about John the Baptist’s end at Herod’s court as brought about by Salome demanding his head. The arias are expressive, artful and full of contrasts. 8 FEBRUARY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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COFFEE LUNCH DINNER DRINKS DR NKS & FRIENDS FRI NDS OPEN NOW a

STAN-CO.NL

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Rembrandt-Velázquez

Dutch & Spanish Masters Rijksmuseum

October 11, 2019 –January 19, 2020 The Rijksmuseum presents an outstanding selection of paintings by Dutch and Spanish Masters of the 17th century. 60 paintings hang alongside each other in pairs, resulting in fascinating visual dialogues on realism and eternity, religion and beauty. Book online. iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

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Interview TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU

MassiveMusic is one of the leading creative music agencies in the world, with offices in Amsterdam, Berlin, London, New York, Los Angeles and Tokyo. The agency helps brands find their voice and tell their story through music.

For 56-year-old Hans Brouwer, founder and CEO of MassiveMusic, it’s always been about the music.

On Music and Mokum

Everything that makes the city great is there, including me and my neighbours! Favourite restaurant: Moon on the 19th floor of the A’DAM Tower. It revolves 360 degrees every hour, with a view over the city. I also like Choux on De Ruijterkade. Favourite way to get around: My bicycle. I hardly touch anything else. I have a car and a motorbike, but 95% of my trips are by bike – a tough city bike made by the bicycle freaks at Segijn en van Wees in Watergraafsmeer.

S TE RL AA K

Favourite bike ride: From my home to the ferry – biking through the Jordaan, over the canals, along the Brouwersgracht, which, as a Brouwer, feels like my canal!

rom DJ-ing for his young classmates to playing bass (which he still does) to studying musicology, starting one of the world’s most successful creative music agencies was ‘just a natural progression from what I’ve been doing since I was a kid – sharing music,’ he says. For the past 20 years, MassiveMusic has been ‘sharing great music with and for brands, empowering them to convey their messages,’ says Brouwer, including Philips, KLM and Nike. From his office in the A’DAM Tower, the music hub he helped create, this born and bred Amsterdammer says that although he runs a global company, Amsterdam’s vibrancy keeps him rooted. ‘I chose to stay here,’ says Brouwer. ‘I want to celebrate and give back to my hometown.’ Indeed, MassiveMusic’s success has given him the freedom to do just that. From paying for music lessons for local kids to creating a sample pack of traditional instruments (instrumentsforchange.nl) that raises money for conflict-ridden areas, MassiveMusic continues to give music back to Amsterdam and the world beyond.

Favourite club: When I go out, it’s to see live music. For me, Paradiso is the best concert hall in the world. Not acoustically, but its atmosphere, the bands and my memories make it one of the greatest places in Amsterdam.

What screams ‘Amsterdam’ to you the most? The A’DAM Tower, because we try to be a landmark. We change the tower’s colour to reflect the city’s celebrations: red and white for Ajax championships and rainbow colours on Gay Pride.

Favourite cultural spot: Culture to me is mainly music. I love the Concertgebouw, home to maybe the best orchestra in the world and definitely the best acoustics. Favourite city escape: I rarely feel the need to escape, but when I do, we head to the beach at Wijk aan Zee. Timboektoe beach club welcomes our Cocker Spaniel, Mrs Jones.

Favourite place for a drink: De Blaffende Vis, a typical Jordaan bar. It’s filled with old Jordaanians, students, expats, Amsterdammers and tourists. I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

48 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND DAVID WILLS

Lana del Rey

ho is Lana Del Rey? Pristine, detached and channelling a vibe which sits somewhere between mystery and meh, at times the New York singer-songwriter’s doe/dead-eyed persona seems so cool that it can be hard to truly love. Her music doesn’t always help either: cinematic reveries that use swooning strings, synths and reverb-laden vocals to evoke a hazy Americana that only really exists in the minds of auteurs like David Lynch. But if you look past the artifice and submit yourself to Del Rey’s otherworldly charms – and accept she’s capable of writing some magnificent music – then you’ll find lots to enjoy. It also helps that live she’s a warm, earnest performer, as authentic when performing her songs as she is telling her audience to live their best lives.

2 DECEMBER, MELKWEG

RIOT GRRRL RETURN Sleater-Kinney return with new music that’s bolder and more daring than ever before. Emerging at the end of the Riot Grrrl movement in the ’90s, their punk sound is back. 8 DECEMBER, MELKWEG 19 FEBRUARY, PARADISO

HOT CHIP One of the UK’s best bands, Hot Chip rarely release a record that isn’t full of pristine pop melodies, yet still manage to push boundaries. Live, the group pound their pulsating house beats out with such relish that venues are transformed into temples to rave. Praise be.

21 FEBRUARY, ZIGGO DOME

RIDE Managing to reform and sound as vital as you ever have is no easy task, but shoegaze-pioneers Ride have done just that. The Oxford group’s time away has added heft and an experimental attitude to their more classic melodies. 28 JANUARY, PARADISO

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The Bootleg Beatles have been playing for longer than the original band. Hear timeless classics played by this masterful bunch.

FKA Twigs Sometimes it’s hard to know whether to love FKA Twigs or find her output completely pretentious. And the fact she also dated Shia LaBeouf – the poster boy for millennial pretentiousness – certainly doesn’t help. Despite that, it’s hard to argue that her music is anything but interesting, and at times completely captivating, too. Live, her pretentions manifest in hypnotic shows fusing dance, performance art, theatre and stagecraft that never disappoint.

22 FEBRUARY, Q-FACTORY

Chk Chk Chk

Hot on the heels of releasing Wallop, their eighth album, in August, !!! (Chk Chk Chk) are coming to Amsterdam’s Bitterzoet. Their trademark sound, fusing punk and dance with a pinch of funk, house and afrobeat, has won them adoring fans across the globe. Hailing from Sacramento and based in New York City, !!!’s sharp edge and punk attitude typifies a generation of indie dance rock. 5 DECEMBER, BITTERZOET

fast for their Amsterdam show so don’t waste a moment: grab a ticket for this band who fuse pop, rock and an indie sound to perfection.

Prone to performing naked and known as almighty party animals, controversy and conflict have plagued Fat White Family’s rise to become one of the most mythologised UK bands of the last few years.

24 FEBRUARY, PARADISO

8 DECEMBER, MELKWEG

3 DECEMBER, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

Balthazar

In under ten years, Belgian band Balthazar have released four albums and nailed their live concerts, which have been described by some as the best they’ve seen. Tickets are selling

Fat White Family

BOY & BEAR Sydney band Boy & Bear have just released their fourth album following a period of illness and angst for the band’s singer Dave Hoskings. With all that behind them, they’re back on form and building on their already impressive reputation as masters of the indie folk genre. 8 FEBRUARY, PARADISO

THE DARKNESS The Darkness are masters of the brooding hard/glam rock sound. Catch their magnificent live show at the Melkweg where you can expect them to cement their reputation as a premier live band. Oh, and there’ll be new tracks from their recent Easter is Cancelled album in the mix too. 24 FEBRUARY, MELKWEG

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LGTBI 50 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Hang out with the wild ones at one of Amsterdam’s most popular LGBTI club nights, 3x NYX. What’s not to love, with vibrant performances, diverse music and three levels of fun! ? EVERY SATURDAY, CLUB NYX

FUNHOUSE XL

Bear-Necessity

Xmas edition

Amsterdam is home base for Bear-Necessity, a regular party night for men with beards and body hair and their admirers. It’s an attitude-free event for real men to meet, socialise and dance in a relaxed atmosphere. DJs spin progressive, underground tracks with a focus on quality music leagues away from floor-fillers and commercial hits. To end the year, they’re going all sporty. Don your shorts and singlets or trackpants for this hirsute party. The Sport Edition features guest DJs Sergio Cardoso and Star DJ Pagano. It’s going to be hot in there.

unHouse XL put the X in Xmas with their infamous end-ofyear party for gay, queer and open-minded party people. What better way to celebrate the festive season than by darting between three different dance floors as DJs spin suitably sexy tunes. As you’d expect there’ll be live performances, a playroom and a DJ line-up that includes Karl Kay, Asaf Dolev, Dorian M, Saaed and Sharon O Love with more to be announced. 21 DECEMBER, TRANSFORMATORHUIS, WESTERUNIE

28 DECEMBER, PANAMA

Bar Buka

Buka means ‘open’ in Indonesian, and that’s exactly what this neighbourhood bar for women is all about. Drop by for a drink, a dance or any one of their engaging events, where you’ll find enticing cocktails and tasty bar snacks. This is where girls meet.

QUEER HISTORY Get up to speed with Amsterdam’s queer history on the last Saturday of the month at the Amsterdam Museum. Guest tour leaders share stories and take you on an LGBTI+ tour of the museum followed by a Queer History Talk on a variety of topics. 28 DECEMBER, 25 JANUARY & 29 FEBRUARY AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

WEDNESDAY-SUNDAY, BAR BUKA

(Z)ONDERBROEK Drop all your pretences and take off your trousers. That’s right, at Club Church in Amsterdam, the rule for Friday is underwear or nothing. Briefs, jocks, swim briefs, boxers, sports shorts or nude is the dress code at this pantsdown party night.

GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special LGBTI movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages. Check the Pathé website for more information: pathe.nl/gaynight

EVERY FRIDAY, CLUB CHURCH

EVERY FIRST WEDNESDAY OF THE MONTH, PATHÉ DE MUNT

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Clubbing

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Nomad

winter edition

Liquicity

Showcasing the best drum and bass talent from around the world, Liquicity Winter Festival moves to Warehouse Elementenstraat for two big nights. Get ready for incredible drum and bass sounds from the likes of The Prototypes, Voicians, Total Science and Fred V with dazzling decorations at this intimate venue. Expect to dance well into the wee hours at this wintery celebration of big beats. 27-28 DECEMBER, WAREHOUSE ELEMENTENSTRAAT

omadic souls in search of their tribe may well have found their Shangri-La. Nomad’s winter edition is all about dreamscapes and tunes to drift away to. It’s an oasis where local vagabonds and international drifters meet and merge, where like-minded spirits dwell and dance. This year’s line-up is exceptional with Aux tha Masterfader, Nomads Soundsystem and Times are Ruff being just a few of the acts who’ll take you on a Christmas-infused nomadic trip.

Double O and Mantra, leaders of the infamous London crew Rupture, are coming to Amsterdam. With a stellar line-up featuring drum and bass stars Loxy and Sully plus their Dutch cohorts Coco Bryce and Yorobi, you can expect a big night of rock-hard breaks, jungle beats and futuristic vibes. Go deep into the darkest corners of drum and base with progressive sounds, modern production and cool clattering breaks.

JEFF MILLS Techno wizard DJ Jeff Mills brings his technical know-how and ear for underground sounds to De Marktkantine. Experimental by nature, Mills is known for dynamic sets with acts and tricks adding to his showmanship. 28 DECEMBER DE MARKTKANTINE

27 DECEMBER, MELKWEG

21 DECEMBER, THUISHAVEN

Rupture

GROOVE Every Thursday, resident DJ Mademoiselle Pipi spins an eclectic selection of groovy tunes from her collection. She scours markets and local record shops in search of vinyl, resulting in a fun mix that sets the tone for the weekend ahead. THURSDAYS, CANVAS

ENCORE At Amsterdam’s premier hip-hop and R&B night, you can expect to hear everything from oldschool tracks to the newest beats around. Over the last five years, ENCORE has cemented its reputation as one of the best hip-hop and R&B nights in the city. EVERY SATURDAY, MELKWEG

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Visit Amsterdam Museum

Free for kids!

Experience Amsterdam Winter Paradise

The RAI will transform into a wonderland this winter with both indoor and outdoor ice-skating rinks, seasonal parties, dining galore and a giant Ferris wheel that looks out over the city of Amsterdam. You can tube across real snow, cross-country ski between Christmas trees or indulge in a classic snowball fight.

tarting 1 January 2020, admission to Amsterdam Museum will be free for kids up to 17 years old, as part of the museum’s mission to make the stories and art of Amsterdam accessible to locals and visitors alike. There are tons of educational and entertaining activities for kids, including a replica of a 17th-century orphanage – complete with dining rooms, dormitories, classrooms, kitchens, and even a cowshed. During the Amsterdam DNA family tour, you’ll learn about Amsterdam’s first inhabitants, canals, harbour, Golden Age and the foundation of Dutch culture.

21 DECEMBER-5 JANUARY AMSTERDAM RAI

OPEN DAILY, AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

HEAD TO THE HARBOUR One Sunday a month, Harbour Club Oost invites kids to play in their private venue with supervised workshops and games, a bouncy castle and live entertainment, while the grown-ups relax and enjoy champagne and sushi (€15 a roll). Who says you can’t have it all?

OPERA FOR TODDLERS A violin-playing singer, a dancing percussionist and a singing dancer bring the young audience along on a playful journey between dance, music and voice. The show Itch is an engaging musical-theatre experience designed to entertain the little ones as they learn about the world of sounds.

29 DECEMBER, 26 JANUARY, 9 & 23 FEBRUARY, HARBOUR CLUB OOST

2-4 JANUARY & 22-23 FEBRUARY DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Learn about the Netherlands in 5D

Play with shadow and light

Soar through the history of the Netherlands in an hour-long immersive show, which includes a nine-minute 5D cinematic experience where you’ll watch Dutch landscape in vivid detail on a highdefinition spherical screen, with chairs that move in tandem with the images. Special effects, including wind, scents and mist, make it feel like you are really there, flying past fields of tulips, polders, windmills, canals and other classic Low Country scenery.

During the winter, Amsterdam takes advantage of the shorter days by stringing the city in twinkling lights, from glittering red roses that stretch across the Rozengracht to artistic installations that illuminate the canals. Kids can experiment with the nature of light during the Spark Light shadow-theatre workshop by Lichtbende (11 December, OCCII Kinderpret). During the lesson, kids will make their own lantern and learn how to project swirling scenes onto the wall using cut-out shadow figures. See the full potential of shadow theatre at the show Tangle (9 February, Krakeling Theatre), a spellbinding shadow circus with wild visual acrobatics that will leave the whole family breathless.

OPEN DAILY, THIS IS HOLLAND

Rock out

Pllek waterfront restaurant hosts Ruige Rakkers, a rotating series of workshops and entertainment for kids, from music and dance classes to theatre and circus performances. Ever feel like your children are masters of destruction? Check the Pllek calendar and go on a Sunday when the Repair Kids travelling bus stops by, giving kids the chance to better understand gadgets and devices – by demolishing them. After the group has taken apart an appliance, they use the bits and bobs to make works of art, in a lesson about how nothing should go to waste. And as a bonus, there is a fun vintage-style photobooth where you can fire off endless strips of family snaps.

Take a forest walk

Bundle up and head to Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam forest) to experience the lush woods in the heart of the city, with beautiful tree-lined paths, a working goat farm, rowing lake, playgrounds aplenty, and Boerderij Meerzicht: a pancake house where you can feed their stable of deer and then warm up with a hot chocolate and syrup-laden pannenkoeken. AMSTERDAMSE BOS

SUNDAY AFTERNOONS, PLLEK

SPLASH OF COLOUR After successful performances like The Gruffalo and the Fantastic Mr. Fox, Mr. Monster is back with The Rovers. The story follows three robbers who live in a world that’s dark and grey, but they are willing to risk everything to bring colour back to everyone’s lives. For more details, visit kidsproof.nl.

LEARN ABOUT SOUND Composer Yael Levy and percussionist Natalia Alvarez-Arenas use their handcrafted instruments, including flutes, drums and xylophones, along with a bevy of multimedia and special effects, to teach kids about music with Ta-Ta-Tone. 16 FEBRUARY, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ‘T IJ

12 JANUARY, MEERVAART THEATRE

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Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

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Oost Zuid West De Hallen Noord

Explore the Amstel

The Amstel River flows from Nieuwveen to Amsterdam through the idyllic Oudekerk aan de Amstel. A stroll or a cycle ride along the river is a pleasure at any time of year, but especially during winter when the air is bracing and invigorating. At night, the twinkling lights on the bridges reflect in the dark, chilly water. A stunning sight, so long as you’re wrapped up right!

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Oost

56 | text: TEXT: Karin LILY Engelbrecht HEATON

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Near the Eastern Docklands? Pop into Museum Perron Oost, the smallest museum in the world.

Eastern Expansion

he neighbourhood’s diverse population is evident not only in its residents – families, students, and of course, yuppies – but also in its architectural styles. They range from grand 19th-century designs in the Oud-Oost (Old East) to modern buildings in the Eastern Docklands, with high-rises along the water where the Dutch East India Company ships once moored.

Diverse Dapperbuurt

Home to a melange of cultures, locally run Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside plenty of trendy additions, which are popping up as faster than you can say Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (Dutch East India Company). Demonstrative of Oost’s cultural

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diversity and housed in a monumental historic building, the Tropenmuseum highlights stories of shared human experiences, displaying anthropological treasures from cultures around the globe. The multicultural heart of Oost beats at the bustling Dappermarkt. Dating back to 1910, it’s one of the oldest and busiest markets in the city. Today, shoppers still haggle with scores of vendors, who sell everything from exotic ingredients to everyday groceries, textiles and, of course, tulips when they’re in season. Like much of Amsterdam, this area has continued to develop with new spots – check out Louie Louie for assorted brews, sample Asian bites at Boi Boi, and load up on caffeine at Motion Coffee.

INSIDER TIP

Take the scenic route and venture over the Amstel River via the historic Magere Brug (skinny bridge) into Oost, Amsterdam’s east side.

‘We love art, architecture and culture, and in Oost, we can indulge in all of that. In winter, the stunning Tropenmuseum is worth a visit. After that, we’ll head across the street for good food and beer at De Biertuin.’ Stirland Martin, account director, and Arjan Eikelenboom, director investment relations

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In warmer seasons, Oost has no shortage of open green spaces. Luckily, some are repurposed for colder times of the year. The beloved Oosterpark, an English-style garden, has been a neighbourhood staple since the 1890s. Visitors (and wild green parakeets) flock here for music and cultural festivals in warmer months, but it’s still worth a stroll in the cold too. Walk through this landscaped park, complete with ponds and weeping willows, to check out public art including ‘De Schreeuw’ (The Scream): a tall, silver sculpture honouring free speech; and the National Slavery Memorial, offering hope for the future while commemorating Dutch abolition of slavery in 1863. Head further south along the Middenweg, where the land

surrounding Huize Frankendael, Amsterdam’s last remaining 17th-century estate, has been repurposed into a neighbourhood park well-known for its gastronomic delights. Slow-food mecca Merkelbach is located within the estate, while De Kas, a famed greenhouse turned restaurant where seasonal ingredients are grown on the spot, is just a short walk away. Throughout the year, the last Sunday of the month hosts a family-friendly food market where dozens of vendors set up shop to offer tasty treats, from local honey to BBQ and more. All the way east, the Javastraat leads into Flevopark, offering quiet refuge from the busy city. If the elusive sun makes a winter appearance, take a wander through the park and sip some beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room hidden inside.

&Klevering Oost

Beauty and the East

58 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Vibrant pops of colour fill the interior at this funky, design-focused boutique. With multiple locations throughout the city, this local favourite sells charming accessories, gifts and homeware crafted by Dutch and international brands. MIDDENWEG 38, KLEVERING.COM

For more information on Amsterdam Oost check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

The Lobby Fizeaustraat

Two brothers turned their family-run bike shop into an intimate café, inspired by their Surinamese roots, where freshly squeezed juices mix into bespoke cocktails. Start the day with chicken and waffles or pop in for a warm bowl of Surinamese-Javanese saoto soup. They say it themselves: ‘good food, no bullshit’, and yup, you can rent a bike here too.

Since 2016, this upscale restaurant in the lobby of Hotel V is well known for offering food, drinks and gezelligheid. Their menu rotates seasonally, serving three meals a day plus brunch and a roast on Sundays. Pop in after work for borreltijd (happy hour) or signature cocktails – a Dark & Stormy by the fireplace seems an appropriate choice for winter in Amsterdam.

84 NIEUWE KERKSTRAAT, WATERENBROOD.COM

FIZEAUSTRAAT 2, THELOBBYFIZEAUSTRAAT.NL

Water en Brood

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➊

Conscious Shopping Oost

➌

From handcrafted goods to tasty, homemade bites, Amsterdam Oost has plenty to offer. Zip through the east by bike or access this area via Trams 14 and 19. Begin with brunch at socially conscious eatery Dignita (1), nestled in a garden oasis near the Hermitage Museum. Alternatively, make your way further east, past ARTIS zoo, towards the vibrant Czaar Peterstraat where creative kitchen Instock (2) serves coffee, beer and meals following a zero-waste mission. Next, head through leafy Oosterpark, where nearby THULL’S (3) whips up fermented flavours like tangy pickled cabbage, zingy sauerkraut, spicy kimchi and homemade kombucha. Then, venture along Middenweg for a round of shopping. Browse eco-friendly, artisanal crafts at Het Faire Oosten (4) and sustainable gifts at Waar (5) or filter through goods at 50 | 50 Reshare (6). Still hungry? Round out the day with vegan nibbles, plant-based milkshakes or a cocktail at Mr. & Mrs. Watson (7).

Rum Barrel

This Caribbean-themed tiki bar shakes up tropical cocktails, with more than 200 types of rum on offer. The dimly lit interior emits an old pirate’s tavern vibe, and after a bountiful rum tasting, you might starting feeling like a drunken sailor too. Luckily, there’s lots to plunder from the menu – tasty tapas like spicy voodoo shrimp and pineapple quesadillas. JAVASTRAAT 143 , RUMBARREL.NL

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Oost

60 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

complete with a marina and many new shops and restaurants. Don’t miss a visit to Thuis aan de Amstel, a culinary and cultural hub housed in a historic building, right along the river.

Along the Amstel

A recent extension of university buildings has brought an influx of students to the area, creating a young, vibrant academic and shopping district, along the Weesperstraat. Running parallel to the Amstel River, plenty of cafés and restaurants offer space for studying and socialising. Further down the water, the Amstelkwartier has expanded from a once industrial hub to an eco-friendly, residential area

INSIDER TIP

Thuis aan de Amstel

Hungry after your walk? Stop for dinner at upscale, locally sourced eatery Wilde Zwijnen, or opt for something more casual at De Badhuis (a former bathhouse turned café) around the corner.

For more information on Amsterdam Oost check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

‘Since becoming parents, we have found adopting a meditation practice so beneficial for a harmonious life. We love the Meditation Workshops with Simon at Work Inward in the Javabuurt and recommend them to everyone – parent or not!’ Huub, copywriter, Tegan, student, and Bowie Rose

Distillery ‘t Nieuwe Diep

At the far eastern side of the Indische Buurt, the busy Javastraat ends just as the Flevopark begins. A short stroll inside, you’ll spot a quaint cottage nestled in the park. Dating back to the 1880s, this former pumping station turned tasting room offers more than 100 genevers and liqueurs with a lakeside view.

Studio K

This student-run, non-profit cultural centre has a little bit of everything – two cinemas, a restaurant, bar and hostel, in the heart of Oost’s Indische Buurt. Surrounded by a large terrace, the century-old brick building (a former school) hosts festivals, seminars and club nights, plus jazz nights every last Wednesday of the month.

FLEVOPARK 13 NWEDIEP.NL

TIMORPLEIN 62, STUDIO-K.NU

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Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan flair.

Gold Star

ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way through the Rijksmuseum tunnel. Exit directly onto Museumplein (Museum Square) where the view may feel slightly amiss without the iconic I amsterdam letters that have been moved across town. Explore a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized artworks. With elegant streets and stately mansions, it’s clear that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. The glitzy P.C. Hooftstraat caters to affluent clientele who find delight in couture brands, while more high-end boutiques can be found along the Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat. Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp, is a quirky residential neighbourhood full of hotspots and concept shops. Pick up souvenirs or taste a fresh, handmade stroopwafel (Dutch caramel waffle cookie) at the bustling Albert Cuyp Market. INSIDER TIP

Brouwerij Troost

Juicy burgers, noteworthy beers and satisfying bar snacks are abundant at Brouwerij Troost, and all can be sampled at their tasting room in De Pijp (one of three in the city). From ale to weizen, craft beers, spirits and sodas are made in-house at their location in the Westergasfabriek.

Hide away from Amsterdam’s blustery, damp winter weather and tuck into a bowl of warm, hearty ramen. Serving authentic recipes for lunch and dinner, visitors flock to this bustling eatery for ramen and assorted izakaya dishes. Originally from Sapporo (as the name indicates), Chef Fujita spoons out hearty broth with a generous serving of meat, seafood or extra veggies for those who crave it. ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 210 DINING.RAMENSORA.

CORNELIS TROOSTPLEIN 21 BROUWERIJTROOST.NL

Sapporo Ramen SORA

‘I was born and raised in Amsterdam, so I love the city in any kind of weather. When it gets cold, it’s nice to indulge in a lovely glass of champagne at Le Garage, a French bistro. I also can’t resist their delicious fries!’ Zuzanna Vuijk, psychology student

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West

The Maker Market, dedicated to local makers, designers and brands, puts on their holiday edition at De Hallen on 21-22 December.

62 | HIPSTER HEAVEN

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Rebirth

For more information on Amsterdam West check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the Canal Ring. Around 15 years ago, the city renovated Westergasfabriek, an old gas factory, into a cultural hotspot. There’s plenty of winter fun to enjoy, including festivals, movies and music with lots of bites and booze on offer. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shops and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants. Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the vibrant Oud-West (Old West) with its many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned cultural centre. The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes. Areas that were once farmland now host hipster cafés and concept shops along the Jan Evertsenstraat and Mercatorplein. Don’t miss the Amsterdam School-style architecture, featuring thick, sculptural brick and notes of an Art Deco aesthetic. Explore the socio-political context of this 20th-century architecture at Museum Het Schip.

‘Now that it’s starting to get colder, I swap Sunday gym sessions for brunch with friends. My favourite spot is Staring at Jacob, a New York-style brunch bar with great service and an amazing brunch.’ Matias Rodsevich, CEO PRLAB @prlabhub

This restaurant and bar in the Western Docklands provides tasty meals with an ample view of the IJ River. Nosh on lunch or dinner in their setup of reclaimed furniture, then stick around to snuggle up with cocktails by the fireplace. Night owls will want to keep an eye out for their energetic parties too.

INSIDER TIP

Meneer Nieges

WESTERDOKSDIJK 40 MENEERNIEGES.NL

Kopjes

Amsterdam’s first (and only) cat café is a paradise for feline fans. Inspired by the popular Japanese concept, this intimate living room setting is now home to seven relaxed, happy cats that roam free and do what cats do. Visitors can gently interact with the kitties while sipping a cat-puccino and eating a slice of cake. MARCO POLOSTRAAT 211, KATTENCAFEKOPJES.NL

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Hallenkwartier

WALKING TOUR | 63

West Side Story Dating back to the early 20th century, this diverse pocket of Oud-West turned into a local hotspot when De Hallen opened in 2015. There’s plenty to discover while avoiding the infamous Dutch winter. The Maker Store w

Tucked inside De Hallen,this unique boutique hosts more than 90 local brands while highlighting the special stories behind them. Discover a variety of distinctive products like Amsterdam-inspired art, sustainable clothing and accessories, home goods and local brews. Visitors can discover more during The Maker Market, which takes over De Hallen’s corridor during the last weekend of each month.

Ten Kate Market ➊

Outside De Hallen is a vibrant neighbourhood market that’s been active for over a century. Open daily (except Sundays), more than 100 stands sell the expected crisp produce, Dutch cheese, fresh flowers, colourful fabrics and of course assorted bicycle parts. There are also local favourites to enjoy, like loempias (fried spring rolls), roasted nuts, and what some consider the best hummus in the city.

HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE, THEMAKERSTORE.NL

r w

De Hallen e

This refurbished tram depot – and former squat – is now a dynamic cultural centre. Given the multitude of activities, it’s considered the beating heart of the neighbourhood. Open daily, there’s something fun inside for the whole family – from a public library to an arthouse cinema (De Filmhallen) and lively food court (De Foodhallen). Assorted local boutiques, a hotel and several restaurants complete this expansive complex.

TEN KATESTRAAT

HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE, DEHALLEN-AMSTERDAM.NL

Baksels q

Once an old laboratory (hence the name) this expansive brick building is now an entertainment hub for cinephiles, hipsters and beekeepers alike. That’s right, there’s a honeybee hive on the roof. Head inside to find three screening rooms, a restaurant, bar and exhibition space curating cult movie nights, yoga and plenty of quirky themed parties.

This cosy neighbourhood bakery offers a rotating menu of homemade bites. Everything here is freshly baked, from the savoury pies and quiches (inspired by the owner’s French family recipes) to creamy cheesecakes, rich brownies and cupcakes. Fans of red velvet will definitely want to grab a thick slice of this local favourite and wash it down with a cup of coffee or tea.

ARIE BIEMONDSTRAAT 111, LAB111.NL

KINKERSTRAAT 51, BAKSELS.NL

t Lab 111 t

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Noord

IJ-Hallen flea market takes place at NDSM Wharf on the weekends of 25-26 January and 15-16 February.

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Amsterdam Noord offers diverse entertainment and bohemian flair, just steps from the water’s edge.

Other Side

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as its many new developments. Gone are the days of grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art, cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and explore. For the fastest route, exit the Buiksloterweg ferry and step into a wide, riverside promenade leading visitors to a variety of amusements. The sleek, modern Eye Filmmuseum features exhibitions and movies with a restaurant and waterfront terrace. Take in a bird’s-eye view from the top of the A’DAM Tower, where thrill-seekers dare to swing from the edge of the rooftop – the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 metres up. Alternatively, take the ferry over to NDSM Wharf, home to an old shipping dockyard turned vibrant cultural centre with assorted eateries and a full agenda of unorthodox activities.

For more information on Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Spanning the base of the A’DAM Tower, the Noord location of this burger joint has arcade amusements, a cocktail bar and plenty of room to lounge. Open 24 hours on weekends, they cater to night owls needing late-night bites after stumbling out of Shelter (the nightclub below). Angus burgers named with witty pop culture references are crowd-pleasers, while the crispy fries, wings and boozy milkshakes also deserve an honourable mention. OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1 THE-BUTCHER.COM

INSIDER TIP

The Butcher Social Club

‘Noord is growing so quickly! On weekends, I like popping into Café de Ceuvel for lunch. During winter, their cosy living room setting is a perfect spot to chill with a book or play board games with friends.’ Scotty Morris, creative entrepreneur @scottiepml

Pllek

Known as a summertime oasis, the sandy waterfront ‘beach’ at Pllek stays buzzing in the winter season, too. Their lively indoor bar and restaurant serves a creative, vegetarian-friendly menu. Stick around for late-night entertainment and live music, or head outside to snuggle up by the bonfire under the stars with a magnificent view of the IJ River. TT NEVERITAWEG 59, PLLEK.NL

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TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€19.50

adv ARTT I amsterdam Magazine voorjaar 2019.indd 2

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€28.00

€36.50

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Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area

68 71 72 73 74 75 76

Feeling Festive Haarlem Old Holland New Land Beaches Amstelveen Further Afield

Haarlem Christmas market

One of the largest Christmas markets in the Netherlands, the Haarlem Christmas market is a must-see, must-do experience for anyone looking for a perfect festive feeling. As you wander through the market stalls weaving throughout the city centre, the sounds of Christmas carols and the scent of holiday treats fill the air, making it hard to ever head home. 7-8 DECEMBER, VISITHAARLEM.COM

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Feeling Festive TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

‘Tis the Season During the holiday season, the Amsterdam area comes alive with seasonal markets, festivals and events that offer the perfect excuse to venture out of the Dutch capital and discover something new.

s the nights grow shorter and the days get colder, most places wind down to welcome the winter months. But in the Amsterdam area, winter doesn’t necessarily mean quieter. In fact, the villages, towns and cities surrounding Amsterdam are packed with various events, festivals and fairs to celebrate the holiday season. Cobbled streets are filled with decorations and illuminated with fairy lights, oliebollen vendors keep hungry shoppers in good spirits, and there’s a wealth of delicacies to be found at market stalls or behind the steamed-up windows of cosy cafés. Whether you want to skate, shop or sip on a mug of something hot and delicious, the magical, wintry atmosphere that permeates the region during this spectacular season is guaranteed to leave you with a smile on your face and a few new stories to tell. The only stress you’ll feel is deciding where you want to visit first.

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18 12-20 with until 31- t required Valid ou ery trip in and Check rrier on ev each ca

AYM 1STD ERDA N

IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Alkmaar Christmas market

In charming Alkmaar, this Christmas market takes over the Waagplein – right in the centre of the city. This delightful market features more than 60 wooden Christmas houses and market stalls, all offering great gifts and festive food and drink. You can also enjoy performances from a singing Santa and a Christmas choir singing all your favourite carols. Kids can decorate their own baubles or whizz down a virtual mountain on a ski simulator.

14-15 DECEMBER, KERSTMARK TALKMA AR.NL

Kerstsamenzang Haarlem Enjoy a seasonal singalong on Christmas Eve together with beautiful music and a group of welcoming strangers at the Grote Markt in Haarlem. After a silent disco and a festive broadcast, the singalong begins, with a live band accompanying a mix of English and Dutch carols and songs. 24 DECEMBER VISITHA ARLEM.COM

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Feeling Festive

Looking for the perfect winter warmer? Dig into a bowl of erwtensoep: Dutch pea soup that’s often studded with smoked sausage. Lekker!

70 | HOLIDAY SEASON

Floating Christmas market, Leiden

The only Christmas market of its kind in the Netherlands, this large floating festival during Leiden’s winter wonder week is the perfect spot to get into the Christmas spirit, with almost 100 cosy winter chalets hosting shopping, snacks and drinks. It is well worth the 35-minute drive from Amsterdam to enjoy the waterfront atmosphere while you sip on glühwein or hot chocolate. Whether you board a canal cruise, ice skate, or just relax and listen to the live music, it is sure to be a jolly good holiday outing.

Westzaanse WinterFair

13-24 DECEMBER, VISITLEIDEN.NL

Christmas stalls, food trucks and entertainment, the Westzaanse WinterFair has it all. This event in Westzaan welcomes visitors from all over the Netherlands for a day of festive fun. As well as food stalls and a bar nestled inside a heated party tent, there will also be live performances and plenty for the kids to do, including face painting and perhaps even a visit from (Dutch) Santa. 14 DECEMBER, WESTZAAN.NL

Amstelveen Winter Village

Winter Village is a unique outdoor event in the Netherlands that offers visitors the chance to skate on an ice rink. None of the ice rinks are indoor – after all, ice skating belongs in the open air! After that, get yourself a well-deserved hot drink and enjoy the cosy atmosphere, or sample some excellent wintry cheese fondue and Dutch cuisine (and perhaps cocktails) at one of the Winter Village’s many restaurants. And for the kids, there are tasty pancakes too. Each restaurant has its own large but intimate furnished terrace with an outdoor bar. 7 DECEMBER-5 JANUARY WINTERVILLAGEAMSTELVEEN.NL

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71 | CANALS, CULTURE & CUISINE

Haarlem

The Shoemaker – on display at the Lubaina Himid exhibition in Haarlem's Frans Hals Museum.

Amsterdam’s Nearest Neighbour Amsterdam’s closest neighbour, Haarlem, is known for its dining and shopping options, and so offers plenty of opportunities to curl up with a mug of something warm in the winter. There are also lots of cultural attractions and exhibitions to keep you busy.

Pink Floyd Project

One of the Netherlands’ biggest Pink Floyd tribute acts, the Pink Floyd Project promises to let the audience relive all the moments that made them fall in love with the Floyd in the first place for one night only. Performing the seminal The Wall album in its entirety, the group puts on a spectacular show based on the band’s renowned concerts in the early ’80s. There will be special projections, a children’s choir, and fans old and young.

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

7 FEBRUARY, THEATER-HAARLEM.NL

Concert at Haarlem’s Grote Kerk

The 16th century Gothic Grote Kerk (main church) dominates the Grote Markt in the centre of Haarlem, a treasure trove city brimming with historical and cultural gems. And there’s no better way to spend a winter’s day than by settling into a pew underneath the church’s magnificent interior to take in a concert. Some events even feature the church’s gigantic organ, constructed in 1738 and once played by a young Mozart. VARIOUS DATES, BAVO.NL

Lubaina Himid – The Grab Test

Lubaina Himid’s first solo presentation in the Netherlands, this site-specific exhibition will take inspiration from the 17th-century architecture of the museum’s location on Haarlem’s Grote Markt. Himid will transform the former meat market into an immersive space to address representation, colonial history and modern racism. UNTIL 23 FEBRUARY, FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

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Old Holland 72 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Winter is the perfect time to visit Old Holland: from midwinter festivals to cosy boat tours and a tasty chocolate experience under the windmills of Zaanse Schans… The area offers a wealth of history, culture and fun for all the family.

Purmerend

Founded in the 13th century as a small fishing village surrounded by lakes and located on De Where River, nowadays Purmerend is a bustling city to wander around, where you’ll often find street theatre, music or markets. A perfect winter day trip from Amsterdam, it’s easy to spend an afternoon holed up in a café sampling some delicious food and drink, or visiting unique boutiques, stylish shops and Purmerend’s beautiful indoor mall. Make sure to visit the Koemarkt, the city’s square (affectionately known as the ‘living room’) which hosts regular events and is lined with quaint restaurants and bars.

Waterland

Verkade chocolate experience Take a fascinating journey from the very first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, the Verkade Experience takes you back to the early 20th century, where the original machines are still churning away. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customised Verkade chocolate bar, or join in the games and pretend to be a true chocolate expert. ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

Waterland’s flat polder landscape throws up moments that feel lost in time, and in winter its expansive fields and old-style stolpboerderijen – farmhouses with unmistakable pyramid roofs – feel more magical than ever. It’s a place where endless panoramas are punctuated with places of real beauty: the UNESCO World Heritage Site De Beemster boasts scenic waterways, dykes, restored mills and charming, traditional farmhouses, as well as De Rijp, which has been dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’. LAAGHOLLAND.COM

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New Land

2 CLASS

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TAMING THE OCEAN

Y 1DRA DAM

E AMSTREGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

Where Man Meets Nature

Just near Amsterdam, large areas of land have been reclaimed from the sea, giving birth to the ‘new land’ that makes up the province of Flevoland.

Shopping at Batavia Stad

Whether you’re grabbing some festive gifts for friends and family or taking advantage of the sales, it’s hard to resist the urge to shop during the winter season. Luckily, the city of Lelystad’s Batavia Stad shopping centre offers bargain hunters the perfect place to seek out big brands and discounted goods. With more than 250 fashion brands, cafés and restaurants, look out for discount deals on everything from Ralph Lauren to Nike. Visitors from outside the EU can benefit from even more savings by shopping tax-free. BATAVIASTAD.NL

Nationaal Park Nieuw Land

Almere architecture tour

With a history going back to just 1976, Almere is considered the Netherlands’ newest city. Don’t let that fool you, though, as in just a few decades it has grown into a hive of world-class architecture, drawing on the latest innovations in Dutch and international design. Go on a walking or cycling architectural tour to discover the Rainbow District, a colourful residential neighbourhood; De Fantasie, which was built following a contest among architects; and the Rode Donders, a housing development comprising three large, red, silo-like buildings that tower over the water. VISITALMERE.COM

Adventurers hoping to catch a glimpse of the country’s diverse wildlife should venture out to nature reserve Nationaal Park Nieuw Land. Located just east of Amsterdam and featuring birds, deer, foxes and hares, its expansive fields and wetlands feel almost otherworldly in the winter, as the days grow darker and a stillness seeps into the landscape. And after you’ve been there, why not take the time to visit the nearby Natuurpark Lelystad, home to otters, moose, bison and wild boar. NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL

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Beaches 74 | LET’S GET SANDY

Although winter might not be the obvious time to hit the beach, there’s nothing like a bracing walk by the sea to blow away the cobwebs. Or even, if you’re feeling brave, a winter swim!

Beach restaurants

There are five beach restaurants open throughout the winter along the Zandvoort aan Zee coastline. Try Tijn Akersloot for a beach-club atmosphere, Club Nautique for modern Mediterranean food, Beachclub No5 for a hearty steak dinner, Thalassa for excellent fish and seafood, or atmospheric De Haven van Zandvoort. TIJNAKERSLOOT.NL | CLUBNAUTIQUE.NL | BEACHCLUB5.NL THALASSA18.NL | DEHAVENVANZANDVOORT.NL

New Year’s Swim

On 1 January at 2 pm sharp outside Beachclub No5 in Zandvoort aan Zee, join a group of brave swimmers taking their first dip of the year. Every year, thousands of people from Amsterdam and the surrounding area meet to see in the New Year, North Sea-style. After the swim, reward yourself with a steaming mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream from one of the beach pavilions. 1 JANUARY, VVVZANDVOORT.COM

Winter beach walks

Do as the Dutch and take yourself on a winter walk in Zuid-Kennemerland National Park or the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen. Wander this unique Dutch landscape of vast, spectacular dunes and wildlife retreats where deer, rabbits and Highland cattle roam at will. You can explore this vast protected dune landscape via designated walking routes and cycle paths, but there are also opportunities for horse riding. NP-ZUIDKENNEMERLAND.NL

Pure Zee hotel and restaurant Pure Zee has everything you need for a relaxing getaway in Zandvoort. Located in a historic villa, this well-appointed hotel features romantic rooms and a restaurant offering a fresh, seasonal menu. Visit the Bar & Bistro to kick back with a glass of wine and delicious bites, including a stunning selection of seafood, such as homesmoked salmon, Zeeland mussels or Puur Zee’s famous fish and chips. PUURZEE.NL

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Amstelveen

Find out more about day trips to Amstelveen on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

ESCAPE THE CITY

Culture, cuisine, events, shopping: just a few of the things waiting to be discovered on a winter’s day in Amstelveen, only a short trip from Amsterdam city centre.

Delicious Paintings by Tjalf Sparnaay

If you like your art hyper-real and your eggs sunny side up, then you won’t want to miss Delicious Paintings, an exhibition by Tjalf Sparnaay at Museum Jan van der Togt. Hailing from Haarlem, and referencing masters like Rembrandt, this Dutch artist paints everyday objects and food on a monumental scale. Think big bananas in plastic bags, hefty burgers, enormous eggs or super sandwiches, all of which pop from the canvas in a celebration of colour, form and detail. UNTIL 19 JANUARY, JVDTOGT.NL

Restaurant De Kruidfabriek

Inspired by the building’s former purpose as a gunpowder factory, celebrity Chef Peter Lute opened a restaurant specialising in spices. De Kruidfabriek (translating as spice factory) is a destination perfect for foodies looking for something fresh, with a menu full of largely vegetable-based dishes where herbs, spices and seasonings get to know each other in wonderful ways. DEKRUIDFABRIEK.NL

Don’t miss your chance to take in this vibrant exhibition at the Cobra Museum comprising 45+ works from Mexico’s respected Museo de Arte Moderno collection. Featuring paintings by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Jose Clemente Orozco and Graciela Iturbide, it charts a turbulent period from the Mexican Revolution in 1910 right through to globalisation in the ’90s. Covering politics, identity, sex and death, this inspiring exhibition offers a fresh insight into Mexican art. UNTIL 29 MARCH, COBRA-MUSEUM.NL

Intense Mexico: Politics, Identity, Sex and Death

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Culture Meets Cuisine

Further Aﬁeld 76 I TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Capture the Castle The Netherlands has hundreds of historic castles dotted across the country, and winter is the perfect season to explore them. On sunny days, take a stroll around the grounds, but if it’s cold and windy, take refuge inside one of these majestic fortresses…

Slot Loevestein: hotel and museum

Built in Medieval times in the middle of the Netherlands where the Waal and Maas Rivers meet, Slot Loevestein’s location was strategic – which is maybe why it’s been one of the country’s most important castles throughout the ages. Perhaps the castle’s most famous resident was Hugo de Groot – known as the father of international law – who escaped from imprisonment in the castle by hiding in a book chest. Nowadays, the castle is open to the public and there’s a lot to keep you entertained: in the museum, you can learn more about Hugo de Groot, the Middle Ages and the Dutch Waterline. Between 21 December and 5 January, there’s a programme of activities for the Christmas holidays. But if you want to get the true historic experience, why not stay overnight in the former Commander’s House or the Soldier’s Cottage? A stately sleep awaits you… SLOTLOEVESTEIN.NL

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Muiderslot: easy access

Dubbed ‘Amsterdam Castle’ for its proximity to the capital, Muiderslot is no less impressive for its accessibility. This magical castle in Muiden is more than 700 years old, making it one of the oldest and best-preserved castles in the Netherlands. Adding to its fairy-tale charm are its beautiful gardens. A guided tour of the castle is included in the entrance fee, and there are several walking routes around the grounds. The castle organises special activities for younger visitors: on 29 December, kids can craft their own castle chamber in the chapel. Check the agenda online for more events.

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Château Neercanne boasts not one but two gourmet restaurants.

Kasteel de Haar: big and beautiful

Château Neercanne: fine dining

On a 135-acre estate west of Utrecht, Kasteel de Haar is the largest castle in the country. Dating back to the late 14th century, the castle’s current incarnation was built in the neo-Gothic style – completed in 1907. As well as the requisite castle features like moats, drawbridges and ramparts, the castle is home to 200 rooms and is surrounded by verdant gardens – including a maze (perfect for losing the kids in!) and plenty of water features. Visitors nowadays can take guided tours of the castle’s recently reopened secret chambers, accessed via hidden corridors and narrow staircases. Until 15 December, there’s also a temporary exhibition about the Golden Age of travel. Bon voyage!

Right on the southernmost tip of the Netherlands, close to the city of Maastricht, Château Neercanne straddles two countries: the Netherlands and Belgium. It’s also home to two distinctive restaurants: Restaurant Château Neercanne is renowned for its highquality cuisine, whilst l’Auberge, which holds a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, serves an original lunchtime menu. If you’re looking to combine your finedining experience with a night or two staying in Maastricht, the castle offers packages with an overnight stay at design hotel Kruisherenhotel Maastricht. Perfect for a romantic weekend getaway.

KASTEELDEHAAR.NL

OOSTWEGELCOLLECTION.NL/CHATEAU-NEERCANNE

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Thu

You will find The N Voor woo i

HAVE A ROYAL WINTER in The Hague

Winter fun for everyone

Winter in The Hague is stylish and festive. With great winter events in the city by the sea. And where despite winter temperatures you can expect a warm and royal welcome. That is why The Hague is thĂŠ winter destination in The Netherlands. Get impressed by the beautiful light projections of The Hague Highlights on the Ridderzaal and the Mauritshuis. Stroll along the wonderful winter stalls and trees with ten-thousands of lights of the Royal Christmas Fair at Lange Voorhout. Slide over the ice skating rink in front of the majestic Kurhaus hotel. Looking for more entertainment? Try Cool Event or get overwhelmed by the winter fireworks on the beach. Or visit the hidden pearls under the monuments during the winter Open Monument Days. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to enjoy the festively decorated city centre during Christmas shopping.

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tion

Royal transport

Royal Christmas Fair

From 28 November, royal horsedrawn carriages full of festive lights provide a hop-on-hop-off service in the centre of The Hague.

Thu. 12 to Mon. 23 December Museum Quarter You will find the most beautiful Christmas market of The Netherlands on the romantic Lange Voorhout in The Hague. More than 80 wooden Christmas stalls and the sky illuminated by twinkling lights in the trees provide the ultimate Christmas atmosphere.

tip

Cool Event Scheveningen Sat. 9 November to sun. 26 January Scheveningen Show your pirouettes on the covered ice skating rink in front of the majestic Kurhaus hotel. From 7 December, impressive ice sculptures will be displayed on the boulevard, next to the Pier. It is the winter paradise by the sea.

Enjoy delicious Dutch ‘oliebollen’ on the Plein and Spuiplein

ROYAL WINTER SHOPPING

The Hague Highlights THU 28 november to SAT 21 december

(every THU, FRI SAT) | Hall of Knights and Mauritshuis The facades of the monumental Mauritshuis museum and the iconic Hall of Knights form the set of two fantastic light shows in the evenings of Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Let the video projection of the Hall of Knights take you on the journey ‘Old Masters, New Heroes’ about the milestones of the democracy of The Netherlands. During an interactive light projection on the Mauritshuis, you walk into the Dutch Golden Age where you can change famous paintings yourself and meet the great Masters of the museum.

Seven days a week city center The Hague is the perfect spot for a day of shopping. With well-known department stores and hip fashion boutiques and concept stores around the royal palaces. Marvel at the most wonderful time of the year along the eye-catching winter windows and enjoy extra long opening hours in the beautiful city centre. Seven days a week.

Discover the complete programme on denhaag.com/en/winter

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Need to Know

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7 pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 10 am-6 pm iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 7 am-10 pm

CLASS 2

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip eachÂ carr

YM A D 1 A D R MSTE

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

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USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!):

I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

Holiday Season

With several holidays falling in winter, many businesses and public buildings will be closed in Amsterdam and the Netherlands as a whole on certain dates: • 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official holiday but some businesses may be closed • 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday nationwide • 26 December: Boxing Day (known as Tweede Kerstdag, or Second Christmas Day) is an official public holiday nationwide • 31 December: New Year’s Eve is not an official holiday but some businesses may be closed • 1 January: New Year’s Day is an official public holiday nationwide • 14 February: Valentine’s Day is not an official holiday but is celebrated

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange. AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels. AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app.

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses with debit or credit card (cash is no longer accepted). To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile

phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

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On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘I took a tour around the Johann Cruijf stadium and sat on the Ajax goalkeeper’s bench in the locker room. He’s from Cameroon too!’ Nguenang Nameloic (21), international trade student from Montauban, France

‘You can grill your own food at Miss Korea, a Korean BBQ place at the Albert Cuypmarkt. It’s all you can eat and tastes amazing!’ Baszya Waas (27) and Theresa Waas (36), executive assistants from Amsterdam, the Netherlands

‘I enjoyed the swing on top of the A’DAM Tower. There’s a great view below through the glass floor. It’s good fun and not too scary!’ Bernhard Swahn (22), IT technician from Stockholm, Sweden, and Daniel Sambrook (23), Japanese language student from London, UK ‘We loved having cocktails in the Flying Dutchmen, and the range of gins on offer at the W Hotel rooftop terrace was immense.’ Annabelle Risdon (37), head of charity partnerships, and Laura Gorin (32), head of marketing, both from London, UK

‘My top tip is to visit the Rembrandthuis. I like Rembrandt so much because of the way he’s able to depict light and darkness so beautifully.’ Will Richter (22), communications student from Rome, Italy

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Vicky Hampton contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merritt Gurley, Hallie Engel, Isadora Goudsblom, Jayne Robinson), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam & partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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Eat & shop Budget-blowing meals Asian eateries West-side shopping

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Intimate Audrey Amsterdam Light Festival World Christmas Circus

Around town Christmas markets East insider's guide Castles galore

Magazine | The Winter Issue 2019/2020

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