I amsterdam City Guide 2022 by amsterdam&partners

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City Guide | 2022

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Rediscover Amsterdam THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE 2022

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Contents 5

WELCOME BACK!

s we’re preparing this issue of I amsterdam City Guide we’re still struggling with the afterWELCOME math of the pandemic, but the prospects It’s the open-minded and welcoming nature that are looking good for the city to fully defines this city. Find out more about what exactly re-open again to visitors who have been makes Amsterdam Amsterdam. vaccinated. We look forward to it, but we do hope that the future of Amsterdam as a destination looks slightly different from what it has been in the past. As with everyMAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY where around the world, the pandemic Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours has had a significant impact on our city. or a week, make the most of every hour with our Seeing those empty streets during the itineraries. lockdowns made us acutely aware of this. Even though the centre For more seemed abandoned at times, information about the residential neighbourhoods WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM Amsterdam, surrounding it sprang into life. The perfect spots for date nights, the top visit our website: iamsterdam.com Amsterdammers took to the bakery list, Amsterdam wines and the best parks or spent their weekends bruine cafés to warm your heart. strolling around the canal ring to rediscover their city. On the one hand, it made us realise that so much of Amsterdam can only exist because of the WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO many visitors. The vast concentration of From world-famous museums and attractions to restaurants, cafés and cultural venues in the best gigs and concert halls, there’s always the 2.3 square miles that comprise the something to see and do in Amsterdam. centre could not be sustained without you. At the same time, we encourage you to follow in our steps and get off the beaten track. Whilst the Anne Frank House EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS should definitely be on your list, you could There’s a new discovery around every corner, from also venture out on a bicycle trip along the new hip hotspots in upcoming neighbourhoods to beautiful Amstel River or along the tiny hidden gems in the city centre. villages in the Waterland-area. Or venture out to Westergasterrein, a cultural hotspot packed with restaurants, markets and exhibitions such as Unseen, with DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA top-rate photography from international Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam galleries. Whatever you are up for, you will and discover shopping spots, incredible nature find plenty of suggestions in this issue. So and unmissable experiences. enjoy your stay and remember to do as the Amsterdammers do.

06 Essentially Amsterdam

12 Your Trip

17 Eat & Drink

29 See & Do

47 City Guide

81 Day Trips

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION TURN TO PAGE 97

Cover image: AirPano.com

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Welcome 6 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

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With 144 museums to choose from, Amsterdam has more per capita than any city in the world. See page 30 onwards or iamsterdam. com for an overview.

Essentially Amsterdam What defines a city such as this one? It’s Amsterdam’s open-minded and welcoming nature, ability to repurpose the old into the new, and endless pursuit for artistic innovation that set it apart.

f there’s no place like home, there’s definitely no place like Amsterdam. This lively little capital continually ranks among its larger European counterparts and reaches a level of global acclaim disproportionate to its size. As a travel destination of choice to a legion of fans across the globe, visitors return time and again to soak up more of the art, more of the vibrancy and more of the character that makes Amsterdam Amsterdam. Never afraid to be its authentic self, and inspiring that spirit in others, the city holds an original perspective. To experience Amsterdam’s authentic character, get to know its unique point of view and quirky charms by spending your time at locals-only locales and attractions

that lie outside the centre. Look beyond the iconic Rembrandt portraits, the main museums, the canals and the tulip stands, and you’ll see a city driven by culture and innovation. A city where centuries-old buildings become modern event venues, where considerate consumers factor sustainable concepts into their daily lives, and where artistic influence flourishes around every corner.

The original entrepreneurs Amsterdam’s tradition of newness is a paradox that makes it so interesting. The city can effortlessly count off many major world firsts: inventors of the global stock exchange, early pioneers of shipping and trading, the first country to embrace

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‘Shopping local is an easy concept to adopt when so many local businesses offer inspiring, well-designed products’

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Welcome 8 | CITY OF CONTRASTS

marriage equality, a drug tolerance policy that made headlines around the world… and the list goes on. This entrepreneurial spirit continues to thrive in the Dutch capital, where a new small-scale manufacturing industry has developed. Shopping local is an easy concept to adopt when so many local businesses offer inspiring and well-designed products. A typical Amsterdammer might buy their T-shirts from Daily Paper, their trainers from Filling Pieces, their glasses from Ace & Tate, their craft beer from Troost or De Prael, their sugar fix from Tony’s Chocolonely and their water bottle from Dopper, all without a second thought.

Art and culture at its heart

Since the pandemic first hit us, it has been more evident than ever that art thrives under crisis. Undeterred by closures, amateur artists, as well as high-profile names, captured imaginations via online exhibitions and living-room events. People took more

Forgo traditional souvenirs in favour of elegant design pieces found in stores like Droog, Moooi Amsterdam Brand Store and the I amsterdam Store. DE RUIJTERKADE 28, IAMSTERDAM.COM

time to appreciate the art around them, which in Amsterdam is never hard to find. Local street art and open-air exhibitions gained momentum too. Immerse yourself in Amsterdam’s creative side by visiting the industrial-turned-artsy NDSM, where murals and graffiti art are emblazoned across shipping containers and warehouses. Walk through the former city gasworks in Westerpark, where the atmospheric buildings now host concerts, fashion shows, exhibitions and markets. Or, stroll the streets of Oud-Zuid and De Pijp, where the distinctly elegant architectural style known as Amsterdam School has left its mark. This style developed in the early 20th century in the designs of housing estates for the working classes and government buildings, a testament to Amsterdam’s socialist policies, intended to leave nobody behind.

A welcoming environment

Diversity and social inclusivity have been intrinsic to Amsterdam’s character as far

back as the 17th century, when the city was a safe haven for those fleeing religious persecution. Today, migrant communities are an important part of Amsterdam’s social fabric: its population is one of the most diverse in Europe. With its exceptionally high level of English proficiency and well-connected international community groups, newcomers from around the world continue to make Amsterdam their chosen home. Multiculturalism runs through the city, from the lively Latin Quarter of De Pijp to Amsterdam Zuidoost, and the Oost neighbourhood where a multitude of international shops and the famous market, Dappermarkt, show these cultures side-by-side.

A sustainable outdoor lifestyle Being out in the elements is also part of Amsterdam’s way of life. Cycling everywhere, come rain or snowstorm, is something of a national pastime. City policies involve a commitment to carbon-neutral transport, including a ban on

Designer bikes

Urban mobility is more than just a buzzword in the Dutch capital. Cycling is a way of life, and though no-frills, sturdy secondhand omafietsen (granny bikes) show no sign of going anywhere, luxury bicycle brands have become something of a status symbol. Amsterdam-based brands like VanMoof and Veloretti set the standard, while Urban Arrow produces highly coveted electric cargo bikes popular with families.

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Without any previous experience in fashion, three childhood friends from Amsterdam decided to start their own streetwear label in 2012. Daily Paper quickly conquered the world.

polluting vehicles in the coming years. Amsterdammers also take every opportunity to enjoy their local parks. Vondelpark might get all the attention, but Amsterdam’s lush green spaces don’t stop there. For a quieter stroll, picnic or sports game, locals love Beatrixpark, Erasmuspark, Amstelpark and, of course, the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest), which is three times bigger than New York’s Central Park. It has its own petting zoo, several playgrounds, an outdoor theatre, cycling trails and cafés. And don’t miss Amstelveen’s cherry blossom park (Kersenbloesempark) that bursts into vibrant pink every spring. Experience Amsterdam’s authentic character for yourself and find even more reasons to love its one-of-akind charms.

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Vondelpark

Beyond ‘bitterballen’

Doing Amsterdam proud

Amsterdam has a long-standing history of supporting LGBTQ+ communities, and newcomers continue to find a home away from home among its open-minded residents. The annual Pride Amsterdam celebrations in August light up the city in every colour of the rainbow with a full spectrum of events. Lively queer cafés such as those on Reguliersdwarsstraat, the newly opened Pamela in Oud-West, Prik in the centre and Café ’t Mandje on Zeedijk keep this spirit of inclusivity alive and help newcomers to feel at home.

Amsterdam’s food culture is on the up and up. New food trends are jumped on quickly, and there are more and more vegetarian and vegan offerings. Local, seasonal produce and sustainability initiatives are a common thread – try zero-food waste concepts such as De Ceuvel, Instock and Spirit.

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Interview

Welcome Back!

10 | LET’S ASK THE MAYOR

Amsterdam mayor Femke Halsema invites you to rediscover Amsterdam.

ow have you personally experienced the need to close this city in the past year? ‘The pandemic has had a huge impact on Amsterdam. Many people have been affected. Our visitor economy sustained unprecedented damage. The city has suffered not only economically but also socially. Families came under pressure: we see children who are behind in their education, young people with lack of future prospects, loneliness among the elderly and increasing insecurity for large groups of citizens. That is hitting me enormously.’

It has also brought Amsterdammers closer together... ‘Sure! Amsterdammers have never before spent so much time in each other’s company for so long. The importance of neighbours and neighbourhoods has grown. I do get the feeling that we have been looking after each other better than before. Amsterdammers created lots of initiatives to help each other. People offered to go to grocery shops for healthcare workers or the elderly, neighbours donated meals and arranged babysitters. All of this makes me really proud.’

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Femke Halsema was appointed Mayor of Amsterdam in 2018. She is the first woman to hold the position on a non-interim basis.

How does the city work to build a new visitor economy? ‘We work with all stakeholders – residents, entrepreneurs and cultural insti-

If Amsterdam were a person, what would be its main features? ‘I would say Amsterdam as a person is independent, confident and open-minded. Someone who inspires and enriches, offers room to deviate, asks questions and provides answers. Someone who loves unexpected encounters, classic beauty and frayed edges. Amsterdam is proud and looks forward to the future.’ What are your personal tips for visitors? What is your ideal day off in Amsterdam? ‘I start with breakfast and coffee on the terrace of De Ysbreeker, looking out on the Amstel River. Next, I stroll north along the Amstel and, depending on my mood, take a right turn towards the botanical gardens in the Plantage neighbourhood. Or I go left to check out the latest exhibition in one of our wonderful small museums, such as Foam (I’m a big fan of contemporary photography) or the historical canal-house museums Geelvinck or Van Loon. In the afternoon, I get on my bicycle, ride past Artis Zoo to KNSM island and take the ferry to Noord to enjoy drinks at one of the restaurants on the banks of the River IJ, such as Stork, Hangar or De Goudfazant.’

Artis

Hortus Botanicus

De Goudfazant

Foam

What message would you like to give visitors? ‘Amsterdam is an open, tolerant and welcoming city where you are free to be who you are and believe what you want as long as you are respectful of each other. We do not accept behaviour that damages its viability. I want to say goodbye to the image that any sort of boundless behaviour is accepted. I suggest visitors get off the beaten track and discover the lesser-known neighbourhoods and greater Amsterdam Area. The diversity of the city is enormous. Urban areas alternate with beautiful nature. In addition to famous museums, we have world-class venues, both classical and modern. Especially on the fringes of the city, exciting new places such as Sexyland in Noord and OSCAM in Zuidoost emerge every year.’

De Ysbreeker

©KOEN SMILDE

How would you like Amsterdam to develop as a visitor destination? ‘Amsterdam has always had a great attraction to visitors from all over the world. I would like to see Amsterdam continue to develop as a destination where they feel at home. In 2025 we celebrate the city’s 750th anniversary. It’s a city that is open and tolerant, where everyone is welcome. A city with an international feel but still small enough to explore on foot or by bike, where both residents and visitors feel comfortable.’

tutions alike – to ensure that the viability of the city is enhanced. Amsterdam remains an exciting city, but cheap entertainment needs to be less dominant, especially in the city centre, and we need more emphasis on a sustainable visitor economy. A healthy visitor economy leads to a diverse and high-quality supply of shops, restaurants and cultural institutions. It benefits Amsterdammers as well. They can enjoy the varied offering themselves, but it also gives our younger generation opportunities in training places and internships. A healthy balance between the needs of residents and visitors ensures that Amsterdam will remain an attractive place in the long term.’

What are your hopes for tomorrow? ‘I hope the doors of the city will open and stay open, giving everyone – young and old, residents and entrepreneurs – space and the freedom to meet each other. In the parks, on the terraces, on the water, in concert halls and at festivals. Being together with loved ones, family, friends, colleagues: that is what we all crave and need after all the distance of the past year.’

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Your Trip

DAY

12 | TEXT: LESIA JOUKOVA

Take a walk through the city’s many parks, or the Amsterdamse Bos, an inner city forest where you might meet deer and goats.

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide of what to see and do.

Your Hour-to-Hour Guide to Amsterdam

12.45 PM-1.45 PM:

Canal cruise Breakfast at The Pancake Bakery 9 AM-10 AM:

Revel in the beauty of Amsterdam’s old centre from the water on a canal cruise (Stromma cruises are free with the I amsterdam City Card). You’ll pass by historic buildings and duck under bridges as cyclists zip along the cobblestone streets. There’s no better way to see the city.

10.30 AM-12.30 PM:

Rijksmuseum

Did you know pancakes are a Dutch specialty? Dig into freshly baked pancakes with your favourite toppings and flavours. Don’t forget to try poffertjes, a Dutch mini-pancake that’s guaranteed to become your new favourite. You’ll get a discount with the I amsterdam City Card.

Explore this stunning museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card) and see some of the art world’s greatest works, including Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’ and Vermeer’s ‘The Milkmaid’, up close. There are also more than 2,000 paintings from the Dutch Golden Age, providing a fascinating look into a historic era.

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DAY

12.30 PM-2 PM:

Lunch at the TEN Good Food Cafe

Have lunch at this hip restaurant, which is part of the Stedelijk Museum. The interior is quirky and colourful with the glass walls providing a sweeping view of Museumplein and there’s a lovely terrace for the sunny days.

Stedelijk Museum

Catch the ferry to Amsterdam Noord

Jump on the ferry behind Central Station and sail across the River IJ to Amsterdam Noord, taking in the sights of the city along the way.

MUSEUMPLEIN 10

Wander through this museum of modern and contemporary art and marvel at pieces by the likes of Roy Lichtenstein and Jackson Pollock. Free with the I amsterdam City Card! There’s also an extensive design collection that includes jewellery and furniture, as well as special exhibitions. MUSEUMPLEIN 10

10 AM-12.30 PM:

2.30 PM-2.45 PM:

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Jewish Historical Museum 2.30 PM-4 PM:

Learn about Jewish history, culture and practices at this museum. A fascinating collection of objects brings this religion, and its people, to life. Entrance to the museum includes access to four other locations in the Jewish Cultural Quarter and is free with the I amsterdam City Card. NIEUWE AMSTELSTRAAT 1

4.30 PM-6 PM:

13 Get your I amsterdam City Card for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers. IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Rembrandt House Museum

6.30 PM-8.30 PM:

Dinner at Pasta e Basta

Discover 17th-century Amsterdam at the Rembrandt House Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card). The painter’s world comes to life as you wander through his cosy studio and look at nearly 300 of his etchings. There’s also a rotating series of exhibits and a few things just for kids.

Treat yourself to an evening of food and song at this Italian restaurant (discount with the I amsterdam City Card), which makes some of the city’s best pasta. The waiters will serenade you with opera classics and pop hits, so order a glass of wine and enjoy the show! © KEES HAGEMAN

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5.05 PM-5.30 PM:

2.50 PM-5 PM:

Finish your day of exploration with a fine view on Amsterdam from this panoramic sky deck (free with the I amsterdam City Card). Grab a bite in the rooftop bar or swing over the edge on Europe’s highest swing.

A’DAM LOOKOUT

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Eye Filmmuseum

Dinner and a show at Boom Chicago 6 PM-10 PM:

An Amsterdam icon, this waterfront museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card) is housed in a bold modern building. Inside, you’ll find an antique movie camera, interactive exhibitions and listening benches where you can learn how films are made and much more.

Boom Chicago has been making people laugh since 1993 with a fierce combination of improv and sketch comedy. Catch a show (free with the I amsterdam City Card) and enjoy dinner at one of the partner restaurants.

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Grab some popcorn and settle into a seat at the opulent Pathé Tuschinski cinema – awarded most beautiful cinema of the world by Time Out magazine.

Your Trip 14 | YOUR HOUR-TO-HOUR GUIDE DAY

3 Train from Amsterdam Central Station to Zaandijk Zaanse Schans 8.15-8.45 AM:

9 AM-10 AM:

Breakfast at De Kraai pancake restaurant

Tuck into the hearty goodness of real Dutch cuisine at De Kraai restaurant. Their giant pancakes and relaxed atmosphere make this the perfect start to a traditionally Dutch day out. KRAAIENPAD 1, ZAANDAM

1.30 PM-2.30 PM:

Lunch at D’Swarte Walvis

Explore the windmills and shops at Zaanse Schans 10.15 AM-1 PM:

This waterside restaurant serves up filling dishes inside a traditionally Dutch interior. Super hungry? Try the beef stew with homemade apple compote, fluff y mashed potatoes and spice cake. You’ll get a discount with the I amsterdam City Card.

Wooden houses and windmills from across the region were relocated to the Zaanse Schans to create a typical 19thcentury village. Explore the shops and mills, free with the I amsterdam City Card, to get closely acquainted with Dutch culture and history.

3.30 PM-5.30 PM:

Van Gogh Museum

If you’re a fan of Vincent van Gogh, you’re in for a treat as this museum is entirely dedicated to the Post-Impressionist master himself. Free with the I amsterdam City Card; don’t forget to book your time slot ticket! MUSEUMPLEIN 6

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2.45 PM3.15 PM:

Train back to Amsterdam Central Station

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Dinner at Wagamama 6 PM-7.30 PM:

Dig into oodles of noodles at this popular Japanese-inspired restaurant. You’ll also find spicy curries, tasty salads and different types of donburi – rice bowls packed with all kinds of goodness. Wash it down with a cold beer. AMSTELSTRAAT 8

Catch a show at Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ 8 PM-11 PM:

This concert hall is one of Amsterdam’s most striking buildings and offers a programme of innovative and inspirational performances from leading orchestras and musicians (discount with the I amsterdam City Card). PIET HEINKADE 1

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Eat & Drink

Where to indulge in Amsterdam

18 Bakery Hotlist 21 Terrific Terraces 23 Brown Cafés 24 Amsterdam Wines 26 Date Night Darlings 27 Fine Dining

TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

A tasty guide

Whether you’re looking for Michelin-starred cuisine or a cosy local joint, you’ll find plenty to please your palate in Amsterdam. There’s a culinary discovery around every corner, and our Eat & Drinkguide will help you along – from new hip hotspots in upcoming neighbourhoods to hidden gems in the city centre, such as stylish eatery Café De Waard, with a menu of brasserie classics like steak tartare, oysters with mignonette, and Caesar salad with chicken goujons.

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Eat & Drink

18 | THE GREAT BAKE OFF

Trusted by pastry chefs and home cooks alike, Duikelman is where you’ll find original copper canelé moulds (from €5.95) and other baking essentials. FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 66-68 DUIKELMAN.NL

Levain et le vin

Ballymaloe Cookery School-alumnus, Florence van Limburg Stirum followed internships at Ottolenghi in London and Relae in Copenhagen, with stints at Choux restaurant and Café Modern in Amsterdam, which may explain why her rustic round loaves always sell out early. JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 168 LEVAINETLEVIN.COM

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Get ‘real-deal NYC-style bagels’ with the usual toppings, as well as ‘plant-based schmears’ or ‘carrot lox’ at Flo’s Appetizing. JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 121 FLOSAPPETIZING.COM

The Bakery Hotlist The essential bakeries – old and new – where you’ll find Amsterdam’s best bread, stroopwafels, croissants, appeltaart, and more: here’s the ultimate guide.

n times like these, it’s no wonder we’re all craving comfort food more than ever before and there’s arguably never been a better moment for bread snobs and sugar fiends to visit our fair city. Lockdown rules have favoured so-called ‘essential stores’, including food and drink specialists, and therefore it’s no surprise that the COVID-19 crisis gave rise to an impressive batch of new bakeries. Sourdough seems especially popular in Amsterdam right now, with notable newcomers including Rise Bakery in De Pijp, Ulmus in West, and Broodbakkerij Ex in Noord, in addition to others we’ve mentioned elsewhere in this article. While supermarkets once rang the death knell for the good ole neighbourhood baker, these new players are offering something you can’t find at the big blue chain: long-fermented, full-flavoured bread with a good balance of crunch, light crumb and subtle chew, and perfect pastries handmade with care, time and attention.

The old guard

Since 1896, miller and artisan wholewheat bakery Hartog’s Volkoren (Wibautstraat 77, volkorenbrood.nl)

has been the place for traditional Dutch bread and specialities such as speculaas biscuits, gevulde koek (biscuit with a filling) and (in Nov-Dec only) oliebollen. And, for four generations, the city’s best stroopwafels (and their lesserknown sibling, stroopkoeken) can be found at Lanskroon (Singel 385, lanskroon. nl). Meanwhile, the stunning 1920’s

Amsterdam School-style shop (pictured) of Holtkamp Patisserie

Local baking scene

Every neighbourhood deserves a great bakery that smells of browned butter, burned sugar and toasted flour, and on these pages you’ll find the best of the bunch, those places across the city’s boroughs that bake great yeasted bread, breakfast pastries, and sweets such as cakes, biscuits, pies and tarts. The pedigreed dough punchers and pastry maestros behind these shops are true talents set on elevating the local baking scene in a business where you’re only as good as your last batch. Whether you’re looking for traditional Dutch specialities, authentic French boulangerie-pâtisserie or sweets suitable for special diets, these are the best bakeries in Amsterdam right now.

(Vijzelgracht 15, patisserieholtkamp. nl) is where you

go for almondy appeltaart or stock up on traditional Dutch biscuits, such as krakelingen (sweet cinnamon pretzels) and Amsterdamse koggetjes (the city’s ‘official’ nougatine-studded biscuit).

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Eat & Drink

20 | THE GREAT BAKE OFF

The specialists

Le Fournil de Sebastien

Join the queue at this slice of France, where even the opening times (7 am to 7 pm) are Gallic. When artisan baker Sébastien Roturier moved his boulangerie-pâtisserie to Amsterdam from Vendée, he brought his family recipes with him, and you can taste it!

Focused on vegan treats that are free of lactose, refined sugar and gluten – from cashew cheesecakes to ‘Snikkert’ bars and orange-caramel blondies – SUE Bites Bar (Elandsgracht 4, sue-food.nl) is heaven for sweet tooths on a special diet. Meanwhile, Petit by Sam (Vijzelstraat 93H, petitbysam.com) is taking the adage ‘everything in moderation’ to another level with mini vegan cupcakes, best-selling gluten-free ‘death by chocolate’ layer-cakes, and plant-based Christmas biscuits. With an owner who has coeliac disease, you can rest assured that Craft Coffee & Pastry (Gerard Doustraat 103, craft-amsterdam.nl) is 100% gluten-free, so relax and enjoy your coffee and croissant, doughnut or petite pistachio bundt.

OLYMPIAPLEIN 119 LEFOURNIL.NL

Gebr. Niemeijer

The plump golden-brown brioche at this artisan French bakery will mend most morning woes. For lunch there are crackly baguettes fresh from the stone oven with lovely toppings to match, and authentic canelés, madeleines and financiers will fix whatever else ails you. NIEU WENDIJ K 35 GEBROEDERSNIEMEIJER.NL

Baker Maarten Langeslag’s Fort Negen (Jan Evertsenstraat 31, fortnegen.nl) lives up to its hype with scrumptious strawberry & panna cotta cruffins, decadent gorgonzola croissants and sourdough specialities that are fermented for 26 hours and baked to burnished perfection. Meanwhile, pastry chef Maxime Papin (formerly of Parisian pastry stalwarts such as Pierre Hermé, Liberté Pâtisserie-Boulangerie and Francois Payard Bakery) has been dominating the local Instagram landscape with his stripy chocolate crémeux croissants at Grammes (Maasstraat 16, grammes.nl) but the almond pastries are the real star. And, at Stadsbakkerij As (Conradstraat 471, broodvanas.nl) ‘it’s all about authentic sourdough and everything that goes with it’ for Efraïm Bolado van der Meij, who is a master at baking crusty loaves with exaggerated ears and slashes.

The new kids

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Let the sangria flow at this convivial paella bistro, La Cerveceria, where Catalan chef Georg has brought tapas back with a vengeance. Vamos! BEUKENPLEIN 2 LA-CERVECERIA.NL

Terrific Terraces After spending the lockdown indoors, we’re ready for some al fresco fun, and we’re sure you are too. Luckily, there are so many ways to enjoy eating and drinking outdoors in Amsterdam, from street-front seating and waterside spots to hidden garden patios. Salmuera

Café ‘t Smalle

If you haven’t added this laidback Argentinian to your must-visit list for its Latin American street food, charcoal-roasted meat specialities, and magnificent mezcal menu (72 varieties and counting!), you should. At the very least, stop by the charming street terrace for some of the city’s best riffs on classic cocktails.

Easily one of the city’s most Instagrammable cafés, the canal-side seating at this quaint floating terrace in the Jordaan is always quickly snapped up. Inside it’s pleasantly twee too, with a gleaming 18th-century brass genever pump on the bar harking back to the heady days when it was the Hoppe Distillery.

ROZENGRACHT 106-110 SAL-AMSTERDAM.NL

EGELANTIERSGRACHT 12 T-SMALLE.NL

MIDDENWEG 722 RESTAURANTMERKELBACH.NL

Ode aan de Amstel

Merkelbach

Discover a hidden patio with views of manicured gardens and the adjacent park at this Slow Food specialist in the former coach house of Amsterdam’s last manorial estate, the 18th-century Huize Frankendael. Perfectly enclosed by trees and greenery for a quiet afternoon in the sun.

Perched on the Amstel river is a new all-day dining spot with a waterside patio serving classics with an Asian twist. At a recent meal, we dove into scallops with passionfruit foam, handcut steak tartare with green curry cream and skewers of tandoori-rubbed prawns with sticky lemongrass rice cubes. AMSTELBOULEVARD 1 ODEAANDEAMSTEL.NL

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DE HOGE DĲK OFFERS YOU:

LUNCH AT THE GOLFCOURSE • Golfclub Olympus • 27 holes • Trackman Range • Brasserie De Hoge Dĳk • Meeting facilities • Terrace with a nice view • Large Parking Lot* • Charging stations

* Parking 1 euro per day

Abcouderstraatweg 46, 1105 AA Amsterdam | events@dehogedĳk.nl

Experience 180 years of diamond heritage ✓ Free guided diamond tours ✓ Home of the Koh-I-Noor ✓ The Royal 201

Paulus Potterstraat 2 • 1071 CZ Amsterdam · The Netherlands +31 (0) 20 305 5555 · www.costerdiamonds.com Opening hours: 9.00 am - 5.00 pm, 7 days a week Untitled-1 1

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Eat & Drink

Experience divine comfort with former ‘Papists’ Island’s homemade apple pies, a cinnamon-rich and densely textured take on tradition.

BEST BROWN BARS

Drink in the Atmosphere Alongside the city’s hip coffee spots and cocktail bars, you’ll find that quintessential Dutch bar known as the bruine café. Traditionally tobacco-stained, with plenty of dark wood, these establishments are generally as casual as they are cosy. ‘t Papeneiland

Café Hoppe

This Amsterdam institution, which started as a distillery, has been pouring out genever for 348 years. Still popular, it features a standing-room-only space with sawdust floors and a sit-down area with dark wood panelling and a terrace.

This Delft-tiled bar is a lovely spot for a drink and a chat about the 1642 Jordaan café’s fascinating history funnelling Catholics to their church via a secret tunnel that’s still in the basement. PRINSENGRACHT 2 PAPENEILAND.NL

SPUI 18-20 CAFEHOPPE.COM

Café Oosterling

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 140 CAFEOOSTERLING.NL

De Sluyswacht

One of only a few cafés still allowed to operate as both a pub and an off-licence, this slice of history dates from circa 1735, when tea, coffee and spices from the Dutch East Indies were traded from behind the very same low shop counter in use today.

JODENBREESTRAAT 1 SLUYSWACHT.NL

In ‘t Aepjen

ZEEDIJK 1

Café de Wetering

Situated in one of the city’s only remaining wooden buildings, this café is officially Amsterdam’s oldest. Apparently, sailors paid their tab by surrendering the pet monkey they’d acquired on their travels, hence the name.

Crazily slanted, this woodframed watering hole started life as a 17th-century lock keeper’s cottage. With its snug interior and wonderful views of Oudeschans canal, this is gezelligheid (cosiness) at its best.

Behind a veil of vines, in the art and antique district, there’s a small corner café with a fireplace, comfy leather armchairs and a housecat called Fidel. WETERINGSTRAAT 37 FACEBOOK.COM/CAFEDEWETERING

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Eat & Drink

If you’re going to turn wine into candy, wine gums are the obvious choice (Vinoos, from €7.95 at the I amsterdam Store). DE RUIJTERKADE 28

24 | DUTCH WINERIES

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Decant it in style with this beautiful blue carafe (€19.99 at Sissy-Boy Homeland).

Try L2 Champagne, Amsterdam’s first and only CIVC-registered bubbly (€39.95 at De Kaaskamer van Amsterdam).

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 81-83 SISSY-BOY.COM

RUNSTRAAT 7 KAASKAMER.NL

Wines from Amsterdam Forget tulips and clogs, local wines may just be the next big thing. All the better to go with our delicious Dutch cheese, we say.

hile wine may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of the Netherlands, the local wine-making industry is taking off, with an increasing range of grape varieties and some award-winning Nederwijn labels. ‘Dutch wines still have a stigma,’ says Trees Korstanje, co-owner of Waterlandse Wijn, a new sustainable winery in Broek in Waterland, just outside Amsterdam. ‘But what many people forget is that the Netherlands has been making wine for some 30 years now.’ Moreover, she says, ‘the climate’s changing and it’s becoming easier to make good wines here.’ After completing a winemaker’s course in 2017, and planting their first Johanniter, Solaris and Salomé grapevines in 2018, Korstanje and her cousin (pictured) are entering their first real production year now. ‘It’s been an adventure and we’re learning on the job. For the moment, it’s a passion project but we have big dreams.’ They’re not the only ones. Other upcoming local wineries such as Stadswijngaard Wijn van Bret in Sloterdijk and No Chateau in Tuindorp Oostzaan, are no doubt banking on the wine life, too.

Get the original Vacu Vin wine saver, a Dutch invention (€29.95 at De Bijenkorf). DAM 1, DEBIJENKORF.NL

Amsteltuin

Just a half-hour bike ride from Amstel station, in the green Amstelland, is the area’s oldest winery. While away a sunny afternoon with a high wine basket in a pretty vineyard (from €48.50 for a bottle of chilled Amstelland wine with complementary bites) or visit the wine shop and book a winery tour with winemaker Douwe Woudstra (€12.50 pp). LANGS DE AKKER 5, AMSTELVEEN AMSTELTUIN.NL

Chateau Amsterdam

Hidden in a former factory in Noord, you’ll find Amsterdam’s first urban winery and tasting room, where you can sample both the modern and classic product lines, while European grapes happily ferment in stainless steel tanks and wooden vats around you. Chateau Amsterdam wines are also available at Marqt, Stach and HEMA (from €7.50). GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 139 CHATEAU.AMSTERDAM

Wijnwinkel Bob

Founded in 2020 by three wine enthusiasts who want to create ‘a podium for Dutch wine’ and named for Beschermde Oorsprongsbenaming, the Dutch version of Appellation d’Origine Protégée, this is your one-stop-shop for an education on wine from the Netherlands. To enjoy a ‘tour through the Dutch vineyards’, book one of their wine tastings (€42.50 pp). Tip: stop at nearby Albert Cuyp Market for some fresh Zeeland oysters and pair with the De Kleine Schorre’s fresh and fruity Rivaner, or try the owners’ favourites: Sang De Stokhem 2009 Pinot Noir or Domein Steenberg 2018 Riesling. EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 41 BOBWIJN.NL

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Eat & Drink

Stop by Flying Dutchmen Cocktails for a well-mixed riff on a classic, or choose from the 800 bottle back-bar. SINGEL 460 FLYINGDUTCHMEN-COCKTAILS.SHOP

26 | ROMANTIC RESTAURANTS

Taiko

Inspired by contemporary concepts like Nobu and Zuma, chef Schilo van Coevorden ‘plays with Asian ingredients, unrestrained by traditional boundaries’. His typically delicate treatment of the restaurant’s ‘Ingredient of the Year’, Hiramasa Kingfish, shows off the unexpected versatility of the sustainable Zeeland fish. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27 TAIKORESTAURANT.NL

Date Night Darlings © LYAN VAN FURTH

Whether you’re looking for traditional candlelit romance, a slap-up dinner with all the bells and whistles or something Daalder Wils 212 stylish yet A mere six months after receiving its This modernist two Michelin-star From blackened bread to oysters understated, first Michelin star, Daalder's exchang- marvel with its chef’s table concept doused in flaming flambadou bone marrow, this Michelin-star woodfired its casual Jordaan setting for a is perfect for fans of food theatre. here are ing wonderland is burning bright on the larger, glitzier location out West. Expect fun, informal fine dining some of our Here, Huwaë and his team continue that’ll dazzle and entertain both culinary scene. It's all about casual favourite spots to craft their blend of internationally- eye and palate (from €138 for five fine dining with the smoky edge only cooking on an open fire can bring for a special influcenced casual fine dining (from courses) and don’t miss the (from €45 for a three-course lunch). €95 for a six-course chef's menu). cheese board with Dutch kazen. night out in POSTJESWEG 1 STADIONPLEIN 26 AMSTEL 212 RESTAURANTWILS.NL 212.AMSTERDAM Amsterdam. DAALDERAMSTERDAM.NL V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

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North Sea shrimp with Oscietra caviar, flat beans and roasted cumin was a highlight of a recent menu dominated by seafood dishes.

Dine among the Stars Ciel Bleu offers a culinary bucket list experience with city views as far as the eye can see, seamless service, creative international cuisine and wonderful wine pairings that come with a story.

ituated in an understated dining room on the Hotel Okura Amsterdam’s 23rd floor, Amsterdam’s famous fine dining doyenne has retained two Michelin stars for 13 years thanks to a talented team led by chefs Onno Kokmeijer and Arjan Speelman. Part of a recent tasting menu (from €195), we particularly enjoyed the perfectly prepared lobster, perched in a pool of clear tomato bouillon with tender-crisp summer veg,

sprightly drops of lovage oil and punchy cayenne pepper paired with a gorgeous glass of Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-duPape Blanc 2018. The memorable meal was crowned off with a spice-dusted cylindrical cacao and caramel confection filled with advocaat liqueur. Highly recommended for a blow-out feast. Reservations required. FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 333 CIELBLEU.NL

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See & Do Where to go and what to see TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, STEVEN STRIJBOSCH

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

30 Museums 35 Attractions 36 Festivals & Events 38 On Screen 39 Family 40 On Stage 43 Classical & Jazz 44 Pop & Rock 45 Clubbing

Cultural paradise © HELEEN BL ANKEN, NXT MUSEUM

There are endless things to do in Amsterdam whatever the weather, and many of the most rewarding experiences lie beyond the well-trodden tourist paths. To lead you through the wealth of wonders, we’ve whittled down the selection to this essential See & Do-guide. Take your pick of the best museums, attractions, concert halls, theatres, clubs and everything else this city has to offer.

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Museums 30 | ON VIEW

Rijksmuseum A

must-visit for all art lovers, the Rijksmuseum spans 800 years of art history with masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt van Rijn, Jan Steen, Frans Hals and Johannes Vermeer as just the tip of the iceberg in the extensive collections. Highlights include Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’ and Cuypers Library,

the biggest and oldest art history library in the Netherlands, with a beautiful spiral staircase that begs to be photographed. The exhibition REVOLUS! (11 February to 6 June) focusses on the impassioned pursuit to free Indonesia after a long period of colonial domination. It looks at how people fought, how they negotiated,

L SMAL but IAL SPEC

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER Built during the 1660s, the hidden church in the attic of this remarkably well-preserved canal house reveals an inspiring story of Dutch religious tolerance. OUDEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 38 OPSOLDER.NL

Amsterdam houses many more museums than can ﬁt on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to see them all.

and how the revolution defined lives. Also the garden of the museum is worth a visit, dotted with statues under the shadow of the imposing museum building itself. For a final, quintessentially Dutch twist, the Rijksmuseum is also the only museum in the world that you can cycle through. MUSEUMSTR A AT 1, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

HUIS MARSEILLE Stunning photography laid out across opulent period rooms and a specialist bookshop where you’ll be tempted to spend way more than you budgeted for. KEIZERSGRACHT 401, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

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OSCAM – the Open Space Contemporary Art Museum – aims to stimulate arts participation for Amsterdam residents. They host exhibitions and events centred around art, fashion, design and craftsmanship.

BIJLMERPLEIN 110, OSCAM.NL

Amsterdam Museum

Situated in a former orphanage, this museum tells the origin story of Amsterdam, chronicling how this former trading city has maintained its culture of creativity and free-thinking for over a millennium. Artworks, household items, books and artefacts are all brought together in interactive displays and multimedia marvels including an exhibit for children explaining what life was like in a 17th-century orphanage. Note: from February onwards, the museum will be temporarily housed in the Hermitage building due to a reconstruction project. K ALVERSTR A AT 92, AMSTERDAMMUSEUM.NL

Stedelijk Museum

Van Gogh Museum Endlessly reproduced on fridge magnets and tea towels, the world continues to be enchanted by the colour palette and brushstrokes of Vincent van Gogh’s work. This sleek museum offers a refreshing take on the revolutionary Dutch painter’s life and work, displaying the world’s largest collection of original paintings, illustrations and personal letters for a unique glimpse into his world.

Housed in a characteristic building that resembles something like an enormous shiny bathtub, the collection of this spectacular modern art museum encompasses over 90,000 works. On the ground floor, the Stedelijk Base permanent exhibition brings together a 700-strong rotation of pieces by Van Gogh, Picasso, Warhol, Mondrian, Rothko, Lichtenstein, Appel and Kusama – to name just a handful of eye-catching names – all positioned in dialogue with art and design objects. Outrageous, witty, thoughtprovoking and always challenging, the temporary exhibitions are dedicated to experimental curation showcasing individual artists and movements from the early 20th and 21st centuries. MUSEUMPLEIN 10, STEDELIJK.NL

Many museums and attractions are free with the I amsterdam City Card Card. Get yours at iamsterdam.com/city-card.

MUSEUMPLEIN 6 VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

KATTENKABINET (CAT CABINET) Curiosity killed the cat? This weird but wonderful museum was founded by an interesting chap who dedicated the entire collection to his feline playmate. HERENGR ACHT 497, KATTENKABINET.NL

FOAM All camera enthusiasts should shuffle over to this renowned photography museum showcasing the most exciting contemporary talents.

NXT MUSEUM Lose your senses (but hopefully not your friends) in this colossal industrial space filled with immersive audio-visual projections and digital artworks. ASTERWEG 22 NXTMUSEUM.COM

KEIZERSGR ACHT 609, FOAM.ORG

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32 | ON VIEW

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

The National Maritime Museum

Anne Frank House

The National Maritime Museum brings together a mammoth collection of maritime objects, not to mention a lifesize replica of the East Indiaman Amsterdam ship moored on the jetty outside (you can’t miss it). Start your swashbuckling tour with hands-on activities that illustrate life aboard a real 18th-century ship then marvel at paintings, models of ships, and maps which explain how Dutch sailors navigated the seas and how their travels impacted the world at large.

Step into the pages of Anne Frank’s The Diary of a Young Girl by exploring the house where a thoughtful teenager whose name is now known across the world hid with her family. Opened in 1960, the Anne Frank House Museum preserves the annexe where Anne and her family hid for two years during the Nazi occupation of Amsterdam. Diary quotes, film images and original objects of the people in hiding and their helpers illustrate true events, all brought together in a reflective exhibition about the persecution of Jewish people and discrimination in general. View Anne’s original redchecked diary up close and see the hinged bookcase that led the way to their concealed living quarters.

KATTENBURGERPLEIN 1 HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.COM © ALPHONS NIEUWENHUIS

Museums

Amsterdam City Archives

WESTERMARK T 20 ANNEFR ANK.ORG

All stored within a monumental Art Deco building, the Amsterdam City Archives are the largest treasure trove of municipal history in the world. With over 50 kilometres of archival objects including a staggering array of maps, drawings and prints alongside extensive sound, film and photo collections, visitors can delve into whichever slice of Amsterdam’s history they are most fascinated by. There are regular guided tours to help you know where to begin. VIJZELSTRAAT 32, AMSTERDAM.NL/STADSARCHIEF

KEIZERSGRACHT 672 MUSEUMVANLOON.NL

NDSM-PLEIN STRAATMUSEUM.COM

SMA LL bu SPEC t IAL © PRESSTIGIEUX

MUSEUM VAN LOON Have a nose around the former home of a wealthy co-founder of the Dutch East India Company for some lavish interior design inspo.

STRAAT MUSEUM You won’t be saying ‘I could have painted that’ standing in front of a giant mural that stretches to the rafters of this massive industrial complex devoted to street art.

FASHION FOR GOOD An eye-opening museum to get you thinking about where your clothes come from and how your buying choices impact the world. ROKIN 102, FASHIONFORGOOD.COM

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Keep in mind that many museums will require you to book a timeslot before visiting, so always check with websites for more information.

Nieuwe Kerk

Hermitage

De Nieuwe Kerk, Dam square’s stunning church, is known for its high-profile exhibitions on art, photography, and inspiring individuals and cultures. Now on display is the fashion exhibition MAISON AMSTERDAM, presenting over 150 creations, historical and contemporary, that tell the story of Amsterdam as a fashion capital with its own, entirely unique signature (until 3 April). Don't forget to have a look at the church's interior: it's 15th-century decor is something special. DE DAM, NIEUWEKERK.NL

AMSTEL 51, HERMITAGE.NL

Tropenmuseum This expansive, light-drenched museum houses a collection of intriguing artefacts from around the globe, each with its own story to tell about world cultures, past and present. Presented in insightful and imaginative displays, the Things That Matter permanent exhibition considers themes that connect people across borders. Kids can get stuck into the Tropenmuseum Junior which uses handson exhibits to promote an open view of the world.

LINNAEUSSTRAAT 2, TROPENMUSEUM.NL

OUR HOUSE The world's first museum dedicated to electronic music, with contributions from legendary DJs: Armin van Buuren, Carl Cox, Charlotte de Witte and Kevin Saunderson, to name a few. AMSTELSTRAAT 24-26 OURHOUSE.COM

EMBASSY OF THE FREE MIND A museum library where the European culture of free-thinking imparts its knowledge to all those who walk through its doors. The place to learn about history, science, art and spirituality. KEIZERSGRACHT 123, EMBASSYOFTHEFREEMIND.COM

Although smaller than its namesake in Saint Petersburg, the Hermitage Amsterdam ought to be on everyone’s cultural bucket list, Russian-history buff or not. Experience the Middle Ages through the eyes of the Russian Tsars at the Tsars and Knights exhibition (until 9 January) and don't miss the two permanent exhibitions, one of which tells the story of this beautiful museum building. The building also houses the Outsider Art Museum, dedicated to works of the art movement that knows how to touch you and will not let go.

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VISIT HOLLAND CASI NO YOUR MOST EXITING MOMENT IN AMSTERDAM

HOLLANDCASINO.NL THE NETHERLANDS

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Housed inside Heineken’s historic brewery, the Heineken Experience will take you on an exciting, behind-the-scenes journey through the wild world of one of Europe’s most popular pilsners.

Attractions

STADHOUDERSKADE 78, HEINEKENEXPERIENCE.COM

EXPERIENCE AND EXPLORE

A’DAM Tower

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1, ADAMTOREN.NL OVERHOEKSPLEIN 51, THISISHOLLAND.COM

GASSAN Diamonds Learn all about carats, clarity, cuts and the history of diamond craftsmanship on a free tour of the GASSAN Diamond Factory. Upgrading to the VIP experience offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the factory and the in-house Rolex boutique with a glass of champagne, a goodie bag and a chat with a certified Rolex watchmaker thrown in. You can even take a seat behind the grinder and learn first-hand how these rough stones are polished into dazzling gems. NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT 173-175, GASSAN.COM

Johan Cruijff ArenA

ower of many talents, A’DAM was reborn in early 2016 as one of Amsterdam’s most exciting nightlife and creative hubs. The building is home to a rooftop observation deck, a fancy boutique hotel, a nightclub and a selection of top-notch bars and eateries – including a revolving restaurant on the 19th floor. Don’t miss the THIS IS HOLLAND Ultimate Flight Experience next door where some astonishing special effects projected on a huge domed screen will give you the breathtaking sensation of flying over the Dutch landscape.

Canal cruise

Amsterdam’s interwoven network of 165 canals is all the more magical when viewed from the water. Glide past the city’s historic offerings on one of the famous canal cruises, witnessing 16th-century churches, elegant canal house façades and iconic drawbridges. With so much to see, the UNESCO-listed canal belt can get busy in summer, so why not head further out to explore the waters of the Amsterdam Area? Surrounding the city, you’ll find numerous leisure lakes, including the Loosdrechtse and Vinkeveense Plassen, where you can rent a sailboat, motorboat or even a canoe.

Sporting the name of the greatest Dutch football player of all time, the massive Johan Cruijff ArenA is now the home turf of Amsterdam’s beloved football team, Ajax. On match days the stadium roars with red-and-white-clad fans, and a game is well worth experiencing if you’re in town. Diehard sports buffs can book a 75-minute behind-the-scenes tour to see parts of the arena that are normally reserved for officials and players. Other highlights include the VR experience, Hall of Fame and an exclusive peek at the pitch up close. JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 1, JOHANCRUIJFFARENA.NL

Rembrandts Amsterdam Experience

(ADVERT)

Venture back in time 350 years into the life and world of Amsterdam's most famous painter. This spectacular 5D journey allows visitors to step inside Rembrandt’s last studio and meet the man himself, his mistress Hendrickje, son Titus and daughter Cornelia. Anyone eager to discover more can also set off on a walking tour that guides you through Rembrandt’s Amsterdam. WETERINGSCHANS 2 REMBRANDTSEXPERIENCE.COM

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Festivals & Events 36 | DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Holland Festival © ERWIN OCTAVIANT

Roze Filmdagen

PHOTO FROM THE 2020 EDITION. SEE THE WEBSITE FOR THE PROGRAMME IN 2022

leading international performance arts festival in the Netherlands, the Holland Festival takes place in Amsterdam every June. Since 1947, the festival has been providing Dutch and international theatregoers with a survey of the latest, best and

most widely-acclaimed productions from around the world with a heady mix of theatre, opera, dance, classical music, world music, ballet, art and multimedia performance. The majority of productions are language no problem. 2-26 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

The Roze Filmdagen, Pink Film Days, have been a constant factor in Amsterdam’s gay and lesbian cultural landscape since 1996. With its top-drawer programming, the festival aims to highlight all aspects of quality LGBTQ+ cinema for a broad audience including feature films, documentaries and shorts, that are missing in the regular cinematic offerings. The majority of events traditionally take place at the Ketelhuis Cinema and other locations around the Westergas. 10-20 MARCH, ROZEFILMDAGEN.NL

WORLD PRESS PHOTO Every Year, World Press Photo returns home for its flagship exhibition, specially designed for the space of De Nieuwe Kerk, a 15th-century church parked in the middle of Dam Square. Witness powerful, moving and influential images taken by the most talented press photographers working around the world today. These photos generally tend to pack a punch so be sure to bring some tissues! 16 APRIL-14 AUGUST, NIEUWEKERK.NL

Opera Forward Festival Opera old and dusty? Not anymore. Opera Forward Festival (OFF) gives way to new works and initiatives in the world of opera. With innovative musical performances and talks by leading directors and makers from the next generation of artists, OFF offers an exciting vision for the future of opera. Spread over four days, this festival will most definitely ignite your enthusiasm for the art form. X X-X X X X X X X X X X X X X, OPER AFORWARDFESTIVAL.NL

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See Amsterdam from above as more than thirty towers and observation decks open their doors to the public on Open Tower Day. 26 MARCH, OPENTORENDAG.NL

Art Gallery Weekend

Amsterdam’s art community comes together in April as the city’s best contemporary galleries and project spaces swing open their doors for four days. Along with in-depth events for art professionals, curators and collectors, there’s a full public programme of gallery openings, talks and special exhibitions showcasing the latest developments in Amsterdam’s creative scene.

National holidays

14-17 APRIL, AMSTERDAMART.COM

Each winter Amsterdam transforms into a real-life fairy tale, sparkling and glowing with artworks that illuminate the city’s historic bridges and waterways. Installations adorn the canal ring, the River Amstel and several other locations around the city, taking the city’s already stunning nighttime sights to an entirely new level. 2 DECEMBER-23 JANUARY AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

EDWIN VAN EIS

Amsterdam Light Festival

Spring in the Netherlands is packed full of national holidays. On King's Day (April 27), over a million orange-clad revellers descend onto the streets and canals for markets, parties and family events across the city. A few weeks later, Amsterdam’s citizens pause to pay their respects to civilians and members of the armed forces who have died in conflicts (May 4) with a national Remembrance Day ceremony at Dam Square. Then it's time for a national party on May 5, as the crowds take to the streets to celebrate the liberation of the Netherlands (Bevrijdingsdag) at the end of World War II.

Rollende Keukens

Music festivals

The free Rollende Keukens (Rolling Kitchens) food festival sees dozens of mobile kitchens and food trucks popup at Wester gas to create one enormous open-air restaurant. Sample a little of everything from the festival-sized smorgasbord including cuisines from Thai to tapas and Texan BBQ. Bands perform to exuberant crowds looking to dance off the delicacies they’ve divulged in throughout the day and the event runs late into the evening.

Amsterdam’s festival season opens in midApril with DGTL (16-17 April, dgtl.nl), a two day event dedicated to underground electronic music, and Awakenings Easter (14-18 April, awakenings.com), the country’s most legendary techno event which celebrates its 25th anniversary with a line-up full of special guests. In June Amsterdam Open Air Festival (4-5 June, amsterdamopenair.nl) lights up the stunning Gaasperpark with electronic music, pop, Latin and Afro genres across ten stages.

25-29 MAY, WESTERPARK, ROLLENDEKEUKENS.AMSTERDAM

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Dominating the skyline of De Pijp with its spectacular art deco façade, the Rialto cinema has been a much-loved neighbourhood movie theatre since the 1920s.

On screen 38 | AT THE PICTURES

CEINTUURBAAN 338, RIALTOFILM.NL

LAB111 Housed in one of the city’s most unusual converted spaces, a former pathological anatomy lab, LAB111 is a cinema and cultural space that is about as quirky as it gets. On the agenda, you’ll see a range of special screenings, animated features, modern classic and in-depth documentaries alongside regular showings with English subtitles. The space also hosts contemporary art exhibitions, lectures and concerts, plus there’s a good café and restaurant. ARIE BIEMONDSTRAAT 111, LAB111.NL

Kriterion

RO ET ER S ST RAAT 170, KRITE RION.NL

Eye Filmmuseum

Eye Filmmuseum’s striking architecture quickly transformed it into one of Amsterdam’s modern icons. Situated on the northern bank of the IJ, just opposite Central Station, this cinema and film museum, café/restaurant and cutting-edge event location is a must-see. Eye has four comfortable screening rooms where visitors can enjoy the latest arthouse fare and the finest restored classics along with retrospectives, lectures, Q&As, performances and live music.

Established in 1945, this dynamic student-run movie theatre emerged from the resistance movement of WWII when its founders became involved in hiding children from Nazi persecution. Today, the cinema is still a student association and meeting place; the café attracts an eclectic crowd of film buffs discussing movies and social causes over beers and peanuts. Along with screenings of progressive arthouse films and the more interesting Hollywood flicks, you can catch sneak previews, exhibitions, talks and festival events.

IJPROMENADE 1, EYEFILM.NL

FC Hyena

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 24, FCHYENA.NL

Pathé Tuschinski

A stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein, the Pathé Tuschinski cinema was recently voted most stunning movie theatre in the world. Built by Abraham Icek Tuschinski in 1921, the interior as well as the exterior blend several designs, with a heavy emphasis on Art Deco. Like the decor, the movies are also a mix of styles; Hollywood blockbusters play next to arthouse darlings. Be sure to arrive early enough to gaze admiringly at the ornate ceiling. Tip: to up the date-night ante, book a private old-school love seat. © MARTIN KUIJPER

This boutique cinema and eatery has transformed Amsterdam Noord into the perfect hip hangout for film lovers. A great mix of arthouse and popular films are programmed across two screens, each with its own homemade comfy seating. At the restaurant, you can enjoy light bites such as tacos, oysters, and pastries from the wood oven, along with natural wines from the bar.

REGULIERSBREESTRAAT 26-34, PATHE.NL/TUSCHINSKITHEATER

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Family FOR KIDS AND GROWN UPS

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Fun Forest

hen you’ve had enough of monkeying around in the city centre, engage in some further ape-like behaviour at Klimbos Fun Forest, a treetop adventure course built for grown-ups and kids alike. Decked out with ziplines, ropes and wobbly bridges, there are challenging and exciting options for all ages. Located just south of Amsterdam the climbing park is next door to the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest), the city’s largest park and recreational area which is crossed with many well-marked walking and cycling paths. Between the lush forests and grassy meadows, you’re sure to find the perfect spot to set up that picnic blanket. BOSBAANWEG 3, AMSTELVEEN FUNFOREST.NL

Home to over 750 animal species, Artis Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s biggest family attractions. Time your visit to coincide with feeding times for some splashy spectacles (the penguins are a must-see). Little ones can burn off steam in the fantastic play area and parents can call time out at the café terrace overlooking the flamingo enclosure. Next door, Micropia is dedicated to the smallest but most powerful things on our planet: microbes. The dark exhibition space is packed with interactive exhibits, live laboratory demonstrations and microscopes you can peer into to see how living organisms move, eat and reproduce. PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL, MICROPIA.NL

NEMO Science Museum

It’s all about discovery and interactivity at NEMO Science Museum. Kids will love the playful exhibitions where they can experience the wonders of science and technology to their heart’s content like blowing giant bubbles and making rainbows. What’s more, the museum’s iconic building in the city’s Eastern Docklands is a must-see for architecture aficionados, while the rooftop gives an amazing view of Amsterdam’s city centre. OOSTERDOK 2, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

Artis Zoo and Micropia

Interactive museums

Now something for those social media savvy types: a new phenomenon in Amsterdam is the array of interactive museums that have popped up recently, transforming the city into an artistic playground. At WONDR (Meeuwenlaan 88, wondrexperience.com) you can dive into a pool of pink marshmallows, get lost in an extraterrestrial jungle or dance under a glittering sky. Youseum (Weesperzijde 150, youseum.nl) is a world of vibrant installations geared towards experimentation and interaction with art: basically, a selfie-heaven. Step into the green tub and sink into a sea of likes as you put your stamp on your surroundings. Meanwhile, The Upside Down Amsterdam (Europaboulevard 5, the-upsidedown.com) introduces what’s typical about contemporary Dutch culture with a fun twist. Learn about the amazing dance music scene coming from Amsterdam or the country’s abnormal preference for chocolate and sweets.

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On stage

40 | DO BE SEATED

Dutch National Opera & Ballet

AMSTEL 3, OPERABALLET.NL

etween the exquisite artistry, innovative productions, dazzling sets and costumes, it’s a treat to catch a performance at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet. The institution collaborates with leading national and international companies and regularly presents guest performances including dance and musical theatre productions on its extensive schedule. Here for the Christmas holidays? Catch The Nutcracker and the Mouse King, an enchanting ballet fairytale for the whole family.

International Theatre Amsterdam Two highly-regarded institutions, Stadsschouwburg and Toneelgroep Amsterdam joined forces to create International Theatre Amsterdam, a leading light for the future of performing arts in the Netherlands. Known for its ensemble of world-famous actors and pioneering directors, catching a performance in ITA’s monumental theatre space on Leidseplein will have you on the edge of your seat. Check their website for English-language shows and selected performances with subtitles. LEIDSEPLEIN 26, ITA.NL

Whether you want low-brow chuckles or to be wowed by theatre, opera and dance, you’ll find something to raise a smile in the variety programming of Royal Theatre Carré. For over a century, this historic venue has attracted massive stars, from internationally acclaimed comedians and musicians to some of the country’s most noteworthy cabaret acts. The glitter and glamour rolls over into the festive season when the theatre hosts the famous World Christmas Circus. Complete your evening with a drink in the lavish foyers or a meal on the newly-renovated riverside terrace.

Royal Theatre Carré

AMSTEL 115-125, CARRE.NL

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Amsterdam’s De Krakeling holds the title of being the only youth theatre in the Netherlands that programmes exclusively for children, with puppet shows, music and dance performances.

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

PAZZANISTRAAT 15, KRAKELING.NL

Podium Mozaïek

Boom Chicago has been tickling the ribs of audiences for over 25 years with its combination of comedy, sketch and improv all performed in English. Shows touch on everything from Dutch culture to American politics, and many big names – including Seth Meyers and Oscar-winner Jordan Peele – got their start here. Head down to the historic Rozengracht location for their weekly shows.

ROZENGRACHT 117, BOOMCHICAGO.NL

ocated in the former Pniël Church in Bos en Lommer, Podium Mozaïek embraces the cultural diversity of Amsterdam and provides a stage and meeting place for a range of cultural and artistic initiatives in the city. Their programme offers world music, theatre, dance, exhibitions and spoken word, with a focus on language-no-problem performances. The spectacular sun-soaked terrace of the café-restaurant is open seven days a week and dishes up homemade cuisine from around the world, including a standout Turkish brunch on weekends. BOS EN LOMMERWEG 191, PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL

De Kleine Komedie

With its broad range of comedy, music, dance and theatre, De Kleine Komedie is one of the city’s oldest and most loved venues. Its long history can even count King Willem I and Napoleon as regulars but it’s now frequented by more contemporary guests staging entertaining variety shows. Check for English performances. AMSTEL 56 -58 DEKLEINEKOMEDIE.NL

Toomler Comedy Club

Toomler has been the home base and springboard for many Dutch comedians. Names like Hans Teeuwen, Theo Maassen, Patrick Laureij en Soundos El Ahmadi all found their way to a solo career at this intimate stand-up breeding ground. Toomler is also known for a dazzling line-up of international acts (Trevor Noah, Jamali Maddix, Ali Wong, Jim Jefferies, Michelle Buteau) during their International Summer Festival and throughout the year. BREITNERSTRAAT 2, COMEDYTRAIN.NL

For eager minds If you’re looking for an intellectually fulfilling evening, Amsterdam will not disappoint. Originally used as a warehouse for refrigerated goods, Pakhuis de Zwijger (Piet Heinkade 179, dezwijger.nl) in Amsterdam’s Eastern Docklands area hosts regular events, exhibitions and lectures. Amid the complex of meeting rooms and halls you’ll also find a café, radio and television studios and multimedia workshop spaces. De Balie (Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10, debalie. nl) provides a daily offering of debates, seminars, theatre productions and films all situated in a former courthouse close to Leidseplein. Head to The School of Life (Frederiksplein 54, theschooloflife.com) if you crave guidance on how to lead a more fulfilled life.

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operaballet.nl

Welcome to Amsterdam — ENRICH YOUR STAY BY VISITING ONE OF DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET’S PERFORMANCES

Use your I amsterdam City Card and get a 25% discount on the day of the performance

Main Sponsor DNO&B

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Around Easter time, Bach’s St. Matthew Passion seems to be everywhere. Experience it at The Concertgebouw, the Dominicuskerk and other venues.

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

uziekgebouw aan ’t IJ is an internationally leading stage that excels in its inspirational and innovative programme of contemporary music and the

Classical & Jazz MUSIC TO YOUR EARS

related genres of classical, jazz, electronic pop music and world music. The spectacular building justifiably calls itself ‘Amsterdam’s Concert Hall of the 21st Century’. Throughout the year, the venue also hosts exhibitions showcasing work by internationally acclaimed visual artists. While you’re there, don’t forget to take in the fabulous view of the IJ from the Muziekgebouw Café. PIET HEINKADE 1, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL

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Royal Concertgebouw This renowned concert venue, acclaimed for its exquisite acoustics and top-quality programming, is the stomping ground for the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. Completed in 1888, the impressive building overlooking Museumplein has been the centre for classical music in the Netherlands for well over a century. It houses three beautiful performance spaces: the grand Main Hall for orchestral blockbusters, the Small Hall for quartets and chamber music, and the Choir Hall for more intimate recitals. CONCERTGEBOUWPLEIN 10, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

Situated in one of the oldest and most charming parts of Amsterdam, Noorderkerk (Noordermarkt 44, noorderkerkconcerten.nl) is an idyllic setting for a matinee classical concert, regularly attracting an audience of classical experts and curious newcomers. Concerts typically run from September through May on Saturday afternoons. Alternatively in the Indische Buurt you’ll find NedPhO Koepel (Batjanstraat 3, orkest.nl), a former church where visitors are welcome to attend free open rehearsals and children’s concerts by the Netherlands Philharmonic and Chamber Orchestras. If you’d like to stay in the know, keep an eye out for concerts held by Stadsherstel in such churches as Waalse Kerk, De Duif, Vondelkerk and more (stadsherstel.nl/erfgoed-beleven/cultuuragenda).

The Bimhuis was one of the first venues to put Amsterdam jazz firmly on the map as a leader in Europe. The venue shares a bespoke performance space with the Muziekgebouw aan ´t IJ, with a

Bimhuis

wood-panelled room that caters to the best Dutch players and a revolving array of international jazz talents – always with outstanding acoustics and atmosphere. PIET HEINKADE 3, BIMHUIS.NL

Church concerts

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Pop & Rock 44 | THE BEST GIGS

Paradiso

Ziggo Dome is the city’s largest multipurpose entertainment location. Two large balconies swoop around the boxy arena, with the stalls either all-standing or all-seated, depending

Tolhuistuin

on the event. Throughout the venue you’ll find a wide variety of bars and eateries, ensuring the thousands of visitors are satisfied before, during and after the performances.

Tolhuistuin is Noord’s dynamic new cultural hotspot and a sanctuary for all art forms, mainstream or avant-garde. There are parties organised every week by Paradiso, as well as dance lessons by the Solid Ground Movement and shows led by talented DJs, graffiti artists and dancers. On-site, you will find a café-restaurant, a sunny terrace along the IJ, an idyllic garden, three theatre and concert halls, exhibition spaces, a hip-hop school and a children’s art centre.

DE PASSAGE 100, ZIGGODOME.NL

TOLHUISWEG 3, TOLHUISTUIN.NL

WETERINGSCHANS 6-8, PARADISO.NL

Ziggo Dome

robably Amsterdam’s most famous music venue, Paradiso is a former church that was squatted in the 1960s and grew into a renowned performance space where all the greats have played. While evolving and embracing modern sound and light technology, Paradiso holds onto its religious history by way of the large stained-glass panels that loom behind the performers, as well as two levels of balconies that transform any concert into a reverential affair. Upstairs are smaller rooms where newer or lesser-known bands typically play. In the basement, there’s an additional café and a smaller stage. Paradiso irrevocably remains the pop temple of Amsterdam.

AFAS Live

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 590, AFASLIVE.NL

Melkweg takes its name from the Milky Way galaxy – but the name also reflects the building’s history as a former dairy factory. The venue is split into various spaces including two darker, boxy spaces designed to showcase live music: The Max main concert hall and the more intimate Old Hall. You’ll also find a cinema, theatre, multimedia room, tea room, restaurant and a gallery for exhibitions. Melkweg also shares an ultra-modern performance space known as the Rabozaal with the neighbouring Stadsschouwburg.

When the biggest pop, rock and dance names stop in Amsterdam they require the biggest arenas. Fortunately, the city is home to three major locations – all situated in Amsterdam Zuidoost. Formerly known as the Heineken Music Hall, AFAS Live opened in 2001 with a capacity of 5,500. Whether you’re standing at the very front or seated in the sloped, open seating at the back, it’s easy to maintain focus on the artists on stage.

Melkweg

LIJNBAANSGRACHT 234A, MELKWEG.NL

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Clubbing DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY

Shelter

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Shelter is the name of the subterranean

rating sounds from all types of electronic

nightclub and exhibition space located in

music, showcasing electronica from the

the basement of the landmark A’DAM

defining outreaches of the industry. Un-

Tower on Amsterdam’s northern water-

derground clubbing at its finest.

front. Shelter’s programming is set on cu-

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 3, SHELTERAMSTERDAM.NL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Marktkantine Housed in the Marcanti Building, the name ‘Marktkantine’ is a nod to the building’s former function as a canteen for the wholesale traders who worked at the market next door. After falling into disuse, it housed everything from a concert hall to a nightclub before remaining empty for years. Now, it’s well-loved once again in this current but temporary incarnation and one of Amsterdam’s favourite electronic music venues. JAN VAN GALENSTRAAT 6, MARKTKANTINE.NL

Warehouse Elementenstraat

Situated in an industrial area in the west of Amsterdam, Warehouse Elementenstraat has been transformed into one of the city’s most influential party locations. From hosting the first illegal gabber raves in Amsterdam to becoming a highly regarded spot for cutting-edge electronic music, Elementenstraat is living proof of the power and resilience of club culture. With its modular, multi-roomed interior, the venue captures the intimacy of a nightclub, combined with an indoor festival feeling. ELEMENTENSTRAAT 25, ELEMENTENSTRAAT.NL

The best of

LGBTQ+

Rising from the ashes of the famous EXIT club on the Reguliersdwarsstraat, NYX (Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, clubnyx.nl) is a gay club that’s open to all sexual persuasions – encouraging gay clubbers to take their straight friends with them. The club is spread over three floors and hosts performances and club nights catering to a range of musical tastes. Award-winning Prik is a friendly, no-nonsense bar (Spuistraat 109, prikamsterdam.nl) where you can relax indoors or on their street terrace. Each night offers a different experience, from resting your feet after a night of shopping to relaxing with delicious gin cocktails on a Tuesday. No matter what night you go, you’ll find yummy bites, cocktails and pink Prosecco on tap. Great music, no cover charge, and friendly bar staff will ensure every night is a winner. Head to Lellebel (Utrechtsestraat 4, lellebel.nl) for its many drag shows, live performances and theme nights, with a focus on the LGBTQ+ community. When in town, don’t miss the glittering lip-sync performances.

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City Guide

Explore Amsterdam Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

48 52 58 64 70 72 78

Noord Oost Zuid West Nieuw-West Centrum Zuidoost

ILLUSTRATIONS: © BARBARA VAN DEN BERG, SALT Y STOCK

TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, STEVEN STRIJBOSCH, TEXT SHOPPING: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Beyond the canals

The waterways, bridges and highlights of Amsterdam’s historic centre are iconic, but venture further in any direction outside of the canal ring and you’ll find a whole world more to explore. Each corner of Amsterdam boasts its distinct character and charm with a unique variety of museums, restaurants, cafés and attractions. Take the time to discover the hidden treasures of Amsterdam’s different districts.

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Noord 48 | text: THEKarin BOHEMIAN Engelbrecht REBEL

IJ-Hallen

Once a month, this cavernous industrial building at NDSM Wharf hosts the biggest flea market in Europe, recommended for anyone who loves to rummage. There’s a small entrance fee, but once inside you’re sure to bag a bargain from the hundreds of stalls selling everything from records to vintage clothes and antiques. T.T. NEVERITAWEG 15 IJHALLEN.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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Pllek’s popular hangar-style restaurant and bar boasts an urban beach with covetable riverside views on sultry summer evenings. T.T. NEVERITAWEG 59, PLLEK.NL

Across the River Quirky Amsterdam Noord offers diverse and bohemian entertainment, just steps from the water’s edge.

ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as the many new developments popping up just across the River IJ. Gone are the days of true grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, cafés and vintage shops galore.

Alternative culture

When you step off the ferry, the wide riverside promenade leads visitors to a variety of amusements and eye-catching architecture such as the Eye Filmmuseum and A’DAM Tower. Trendy eateries like Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant redefine industrial chic, while venues such as Tolhuistuin and FC Hyena have grown the area into a much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture. Make your way through the urban jungle and you'll find the gateway to spectacular countryside dotted with quaint polder villages such as Uitdam.

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Shipyard turned creative paradise

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west over towards NDSM Wharf. Repurposed into a hipster haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and groundbreaking street art, the former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands. This urban plaza is packed with flea markets, pop-up restaurants, waterside hangouts and buzzing nightlife venues for all manner of unexpected activities. Popular with locals, Pllek, is a perfectly laid-back spot to enjoy dinner and a magnificent view of the River IJ. Journey around the corner to Noorderlicht, a greenhouse-turnedcafé housed along the water’s edge where you can have lunch in the sun or dance the night away under the stars. Once a month, treasure hunters can rummage through recycled wares when Europe’s largest flea market takes over. IJ-Hallen features over 500 stands full of vintage threads, vinyl records and knick-knacks galore.

INSIDER TIP

‘I live close to Café de Ceuvel, a great place to chill or read a book. Or bike to sustainable NoordOogst. Social entrepreneurs regularly organise workshops, tours, tastings, plays and other cultural events. And make sure to check out MOK, the museum for unintentional art.’ Pema Gurung (29), community marketer (@pema.prima)

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Noord 50 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

qu w r e a iy t

Van Dijk & Ko Find quality handmade furniture and antique treasures sourced from around Europe at Amsterdam’s Van Dijk & Ko. The expansive warehouse is located near fellow design store (and friend of the company), Neef Louis. PAPAVERWEG 46, VANDIJKENKO.NL

Pompet

In the middle of Noorderpark, café-restaurant Pompet adds a touch of French finesse to the neighbourhood. The menu is filled with Franco-inspired dishes, they serve a multitude of French natural wines and they have a real boules alley. The large playground opposite makes this a great spot for fatigued parents to unwind. FLORAPARKWEG 1, POMPET.NL e

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Wharfside’s IJver combines copper beer taps, cool industrial decor and a Franco-Dutch inspired menu. SCHEEPSBOUWKADE 72 IJVERAMSTERDAM.NL u

For over a decade, Oedipus Brewing’s reputation has been going from strength to strength, to the point where their beers are sold across the city. Sample their experimental creations such as the Thai Thai Tripel flavoured with East Asian aromatics or the Mannenliefde Saison made with lemongrass and Szechuan pepper. GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 85, OEDIPUS.COM

Oedipus Tap Room

Pek & Kleren

This cool concept store was founded by Freya Brown and Marike Holla. The self-designed shop stocks clothing for men and women along with jewellery, homeware, gift items, plants and even detergent. If you're lucky, the Van der Pekmarket is at full steam when you're around: a bustling market where both bargain hunters and connoiseurs feel right at home.

Proeflokaal Kef

Following the success of their city-centre shops, Fromagerie Abraham Kef had the genius idea to open a third location in Noord, this time with a tasting room. Sip on delicious wines as you sample a fine cheese platter, complete with terrific olives, pâtés, rillette and charcuterie from the very best local makers.

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 56 PEK-EN-KLEREN.NL y

VAN DER PEKPLEIN 1B ABRAHAMKEF.NL i

Café de Ceuvel

Excellent coffee and a crash course in sustainability? Besides the excellent food and drinks, you’ll find several showcases of clean tech that the compound uses itself including a fascinating aquaponics greenhouse, heat exchangers, composters and treatment facilities for kitchen and toilet waste. KORTE PAPAVERWEG 2-6 DECEUVEL.NL a

Hotel de Goudfazant

The name might suggest an old-fashioned family hotel but actually, Hotel de Goudfazant is a hip restaurant on the water’s edge. The chefs are cooking up a storm in this gigantic 1,200m2 shed, where the menu is as unfussy as the decor is rugged. Original pillars, unpainted walls and a car contrast with the mega-chandelier made from glass bottles and linen tablecloths. Restaurant Freud

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 10, HOTELDEGOUDFAZANT.NL

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Oost 52 | text: EAST Karin SIDE Engelbrecht

Oostpoort Shopping Centre

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Amalfi Coast, Côte d’Azur… Amsterdam? Absolutely, if you moor at The Harbour Club’s gorgeous patio terrace and enjoy the views on sultry summer evenings. CRUQUIUSWEG 67, THEHARBOURCLUB.COM

Cultural Melting Pot

enture over the River Amstel to Amsterdam Oost (East), where the spacious streets reflect the diversity of its residents. Home to a melange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese supermarkets and Middle Eastern lunchrooms stand alongside trendy bars and eateries. Expect to find as many nostalgic barber shops and laundromats as you will wine bars and coffee spots.

Foods ‘n booze

The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where over 200 stalls are laden with colourful textiles, exotic fruits and flowers. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terraces of the area’s many microbreweries, including Brouwerij ’t IJ, housed in a historic windmill. Further east, distillery ’t Nieuwe Diep serves up the beloved Dutch jenever.

Cultural galore

As Oost grows in size and popularity, it’s also breeding more and more

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diverse and lively cultural offerings, like the monumental Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums. The area thrives on multidisciplinary venues such as Pakhuis de Zwijger and Mezrab, a mecca for storytelling, comedy and the spoken-word.

Full of green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while retaining its unique charm.

INSIDER TIP

Harbour life

Along the River IJ, the Eastern Docklands boast awe-inspiring feats of modernity, where historic warehouses have been repurposed into cultural hotspots. This newish neighbourhood (with a funky skyline) is actually laden with history: it was created at the end of the 19th century, when the ships grew too big for Amsterdam’s harbour. The Dutch jumped at the chance to build new land over water (their favourite pastime), and spent the next couple of decades creating new islands, which are today growing into prized real-estate with incredible modern architecture and stunning views over the water.

‘I enjoy the sense of community at Eastbound Gym in Oost. After the kickboxing classes I go there for, it’s also a great place to hang out with friends from class over a shake.’ Asia Trzeciak (37), coach

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Oost

For more information on Amsterdam Oost check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

54 | EAST SIDE

g i t

u o e

d r

Volkshotel

Krux

Quench your thirst in Krux Brouwwerf’s beer garden with a freshly-brewed pint of IPA from the ever-changing taps. CRUQUIUSWEG 83D, KRUX.NL

Located on the roof of the Volkshotel, a former office building where the national newspaper De Volkskrant once rolled off the press, Canvas is a rooftop bar with panoramic city views and fantastic cocktails. When it gets late, party-people can move downstairs to Doka to check out the varied live-music agenda and club nights. WIBAUTSTRAAT 150, VOLKSHOTEL.NL e

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Complete your look with a gathered camel headband (€14.99) at Things I Like, Things I Love. JAVASTRAAT 74 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM t

Restaurant De Kas

Park Frankendael is home to historic landscaped gardens and the imposing Huize Frankendael. You’ll also find De Kas here, located in what is essentially a giant 1920’s greenhouse that grows its own produce. Enjoy an unforgettable culinary experience based on fresh, seasonal produce with menus that are created daily depending on what’s been picked from the garden that same day KAMERLINGH ONNESLAAN 3 RESTAURANTDEKAS.COM r

HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET

Javastraat

Marinated and pickled beetroot eggs

Gentrification has set in, yet this street named after one of the Netherlands’ former spice islands remains a compelling melting pot. Highlights include coffee boutique Hartje Oost, plant paradise De Balkonie, Middle Eastern deli Tigris & Eufraat, streetwear stores Div. Amsterdam (M/F) and cake shop Majesteit Taart.

Erik’s Delicatessen

Stop by here to stock your picnic basket, before heading to nearby Oosterpark. Choose from over 200 varieties of foreign cheese and a large selection of local kaas (cheese) aged in-house, and the shop’s well-chosen assortment of charcuterie, bread and over 200 (mostly organic or biodynamic) international wines, with a special emphasis on France. BEUKENPLEIN 16, ERIKSDELICATESSEN.NL u

Mezrab Cultural Centre

Settle into Mezrab’s cosy floor cushions for a night of tall tales and real-life stories told by professional storytellers. This unique cultural centre, located in Pakhuis Wilhelmina in the city’s Eastern Docklands, has grown into one of the best stages for spoken-word, improv and comedy in the city. VEEMKADE 576, MEZRAB.NL

Studio/K

Run by a team of enthusiastic students, this forward-looking centre functions as an arthouse cinema, a music venue, a gallery and a bar-restaurant. The two screening rooms lay on an outstanding range of quality films with a focus on cinema that has emerged from outside Hollywood. The gig agenda encompasses everything from singer-songwriter and jazz to rock and electronic. TIMORPLEIN 62, STUDIO-K.NU i

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Oost 56 | EAST SIDE

Coffee Bru

Taking its inspiration from South African coffee bars, Coffee Bru aims to be an extension of its patrons’ living rooms with its accessible and laidback atmosphere. The perfect place to peruse the morning paper, enjoy a tasty breakfast or lounge with a tea break. BEUKENPLEIN 14, COFFEEBRU.NL

Brass chain garland (€39.95) at All The Luck in the World.

All the Luck in the World

Indulge in coffee and apple cake at this concept store-slash-café, before shopping for home decor inspired by the natural world, such as beautiful brass swallows (from €17.50 for two) or curated vintage furniture. There’s also a house jewellery line of gold-plated coloured crystal rings (€65), delicate slogan bracelets, and character necklaces. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 20, ALLTHELUCKINTHEWORLD.NL

Distillery ‘t Nieuwe Diep

F L EVO PAR K 13A, NWEDIEP.NL

Located in a former pumping station in Flevopark, the tranquil terrace of this jenever distillery is almost completely surrounded by water. Soak up the beautiful views over the lake as you sip on the best jenevers and liqueurs from the tasting room. s

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What’s made from recycled plastic bottles and sustainable cotton and can keep you dry in the Amsterdam rain? A stylish MAIUM raincoat (€135 as pictured, available at Het Faire Oosten). f

Lemonade

Filled with the stuff under-12s love, like playful Maed for mini print jumpsuits (pictured), glitter pink Vans, and cool leather jackets that’ll make even dad envious, you can’t go wrong at this upmarket kids’ boutique. You’ll also find quirky Jellycat stuffed toys, cute Izipizi sunglasses, The Essentials swim floaties, kids-proof Nailmatic nail polish and adorable accessories for your little one’s room here. MIDDENWEG 46, MYLEMONADE.NL

Breweries in Oost

Restaurant Freud

With breweries around every corner, Amsterdam Oost is something of a Valhalla for craft beer lovers. Let’s take Brouwerij ’t IJ g (Funenkade 7, brouwerijhetij.nl) to start with, which was an independent local microbrewery long before anyone dreamed up the modern terminology. Housed in a former bath house next to a proper Dutch windmill, it boasts a large enclosed terrace that stays busy in all weathers. Next up, the tasting room at Poesiat & Kater h (Polderweg 648, poesiatenkater. nl) offers specialty brews with a side of history including the resurrected legendary Van Vollenhoven beer. Or, for some grapefruit and lychee undertones to your beverage, sample classic concoctions from the heated terrace of De Eeuwige Jeugdj (Linnaeusstraat 37A, deeeuwigejeugd.nl). Finally, the team at Oedipus Brewing k (Javaplein 21, oedipus.com) have been getting stuck into the fermenting process, serving up a colourful selection of beers and kombucha from their sunny terrace at the historic Badhuis Javaplein.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Magali Heuberger (37), founder of Het Faire Oosten. ‘The idea for this sustainable warehouse came from my love of handicrafts, the maker’s industry and the fact that we have to take care of our planet and its people. There are better alternatives for everything and I wanted to make sure that it’s easier for people to gain access to. We now have the largest collection of fair fashion in the Netherlands. I use my female intuition to find those things that surprise me, whether it’s a little witty, or wonderfully well-made, or so clever that you think: Why didn’t I think of that? We’re also in constant dialogue with our customers to find out what they’re looking for. I live in East and I’m super in love with this district: we have a huge south-facing store on a square, which we wouldn’t be able to get in a place like De Pijp. What I like about the Oostpoort Shopping Centre is that it has stores for everybody and really great waterside restaurants.’ WALDENLAAN 208 HETFAIREOOSTEN.NL

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Zuid

58 | text: CLASSY Karin Engelbrecht MEETS CULTURAL

Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam

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Scandinavian Embassy is a minimal café serving the best fika, Swedish dishes and cinnamon buns in town. SARPHATIPARK 34 SCANDINAVIANEMBASSY.NL

Southern Flair

rom age-old art to high-end chic, the stately museums and upmarket boutiques of Oud-Zuid (Old South) lend the district a luxurious edge. The crown jewel is Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and the Royal Concertgebouw.

Streets of luxury

Just off Museumplein, you’ll find an array of designer shops and luxury hotels sprinkled along the flashy P.C. Hooftstraat all the way up to the Willemsparkweg. Surrounded by ravishing villas and tranquil curving streets, the nearby Vondelpark – created in the style of an English landscape garden – is the city’s most popular playground. A magnet for picnickers, visitors flock in their droves during the summer months to the numerous outdoor performances that take place there.

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Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan elegance. Bohemian vibes

Amsterdam Zuid (South) also boasts its own bohemian Latin Quarter, De Pijp. This neighbourhood oozes village-like charm and beatnik flair and is a popular haunt for creatives, young internationals and students on the hunt for affordable rents. The district’s main arteries, Albert Cuypstraat and Ferdinand Bolstraat are a mix of nationalities and every conceivable cuisine. From Middle Eastern and North African lunchrooms to high-end teppanyaki and Vietnamese street food, the neighbourhood’s cultural diversity shines through in its restaurants. Along the famous Albert Cuyp Market, brunch spots and juice bars are nestled among historic bruine cafés (pubs) and old-school fruit and veg stalls. The area is also a lively after-work hangout with streets like the Eerste van der Helststraat brimming with buzzing cocktail bars and terraces, drawing in punters from all over the city every evening.

INSIDER TIP

‘An often-overlooked area is Johannes Verhulststraat, just behind the Concertgebouw. There you’ll find Café Welling, a classic Amsterdam bruine café with pickled onions and ossenworst on offer. And further down the street at the Obrechtkerk you can listen to a performance of Mozart’s requiem.’ Jeroen Groeneveld (46), talent & process coordinator

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Fa. Pekelhaaring

‘t Blauwe Theehuis

VAN WOUSTRAAT 127, PEKELHAARING.NL w

VONDELPARK 5, BROUWERIJHETIJ.NL/T-BLAUWE-THEEHUIS

The seasonal menu at this bright, airy restaurant takes flavour inspiration from the Italian countryside and Mediterranean coastline. Choose from a variety of pasta dishes, hearty stews, rustic salads and grilled fish all accompanied by an inspiring wine list. For lunch, Pekel Deli is the perfect spot for a take-away bite.

Parked in the very centre of Vondelpark, ’t Blauwe Theehuis resembles something like a giant teacup crossed with a spaceship, surrounded by a large terrace. Outdoor heaters make it a great spot in winter, DJs spin laidback music on Sundays, and in the summer it’s the perfect spot to watch the passing throng. e

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Walk on over to Anna + Nina for whimsical watermelon, banana or lemon candles (from €12.95). GERARD DOUSTRAAT 94 ANNA-NINA.NL

ALWAYS-TRENDING SHOPPING STREET

Strandzuid

Located just a short walk away from the floral gardens of Beatrixpark and the RAI Amsterdam conference centre, Strandzuid is an unexpected spot to find an urban beach and microbrewery. The restaurant menu offers plenty of fish, meat and vegetarian options and, for a summertime flavour boost, many dishes are prepared on the traditional charcoal grill. EUROPAPLEIN 22, STRAND-ZUID.NL

Gerard Doustraat

Boudreaux L.A Tortoise, Dark Blue Classic (€289), Olivers Peoples.

In addition to the clutch of cool concept stores you’ll find on De Pijp’s best-hidden shopping street, ranging from kidcentric and Scandi-chic to eclectic, there are trendy streetwear boutiques with eco-fashion, jeans and sneakers, as well as niche cosmetics stores, a Spanish deli, and a cookbook specialist.

Oliver Peoples

Mid-century modern melds with clean North European lines at the US eyewear brand’s first Amsterdam store. You’ll find all the styles beloved by celebrities like Bella Hadid and Brad Pitt here, as well as ten custom Coleridge Sun pieces ‘reinterpreted in an exclusive colourway to match the boutique’s interior design’.

OCCII

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 10, OLIVERPEOPLES.COM u

OCCII is a not-for-profit music venue that, credits its development to the squatting movement of the late ’80s and ’90s. The colourful Russian folk designs on the tall front doors hint at the building’s original purpose as a stable and tram depot. You’ll find a diverse range of alternative musical genres catered to on the agenda as well as a special theatre programme for children, and a vegan café. AMSTELVEENSEWEG 134, OCCII.ORG

Brouwerij Troost

After a sip of the area’s brewing history at the Heineken Experience, see how the beer-making tradition of De Pijp continues at Brouwerij Troost – an experimental brewery housed in a spectacular former monastery. Experience a guided tour with tastings before tucking into burgers and tarte flambées from the kitchen that will complement your hop-infused palette. CORNELIS TROOSTPLEIN 21, BROUWERIJTROOST.NL

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62 | CLASSY MEET CULTURAL

Nazka

While this modern Peruvian restaurant always has some sort of ceviche on offer as well as the signature Berenjenas BBQ (barbecued aubergine with aji panca sauce, smoked yoghurt, padron peppers and toasted peanuts), its changing chef’s menu (from €43 for three courses) is sure to include many tongue-tingling delights. VAN OSTADESTRAAT 354, NAZKA.NU

LaDress Brand Boutique © OOF BERSCHUREN

When founder Simone van Trojen set out to create ‘the perfect dress’ 15 years ago, she didn’t know that her functional approach to fashion would be so warmly received by Amsterdam’s female elite. From floaty crêpe de chine maxi dresses to purple pantsuits with matching satin blouses, there’s a lot more variety now than in the early online days but it’s all still stylishly wearable. a

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 39, LADRESS.COM

Albert Cuyp Market

Wildschut

De Pijp is perhaps most famous for the Albert Cuyp Market, which has been offering its wares for more than a century. Stroll past the stalls and see vendors sell everything from fresh seafood, meat and cheese to flowers, clothes and jewellery. For the real Dutch street food experience, you’ll need to stop by one of the old-school haringhandels to sample fresh herring or kibbeling. AL B ER TCU Y P-MARKT.A M STE RDA M

This beautifully furnished restaurant is one of Amsterdam's first grand cafés, and has maintained its reputation for quality food and excellent service ever since. With its 1920s architecture, Wildschut is as iconic as cosy. Make the most of the warmer spring evenings on the expansive terrace or sit within the elegant marble walls if it's still cold outside. ROE LOF H AR TP L E I N 1-3 CAFEWILDSCHUT.NL

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For eco-cacao bonbons, perfect Paris-Brest, moreish madeleines and signature macarons in flavours such as gin-tonic and fig-hazelnut, Tout Patisserie is a sure bet. MAASSTRAAT 77, TOUTPATISSERIE.NL

Bodes & Bode

This fifth-generation family-owned jewellery store is a must-visit spot for ‘fashionable people with good taste’ looking for ‘wearable, vintage-inspired gold jewellery and one-of-a-kind rings and earrings, set with coloured stones’. There are also some creations by small French and Italian jewellery houses, selected vintage pieces to complement the collection (think: Rolexes with customised dials in attractive colours), and other ‘more affordable items that are great for gifts’. CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 7, BODESENBODE.COM

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Warm sensual notes dance with zinging citrus in Escentric Molecules’ newest non-binary fragrance (€139 at Babassu).

Little Collins

Nobody does a boozy, caffeinated brunch better than Australians, and Little Collins is no exception. This friendly neighbourhood joint has been curing hangovers with comfort food and coffee for well over a decade. The menu draws flavour inspiration from around the world (think kimchi bloody marys or an ‘nduja and comté scramble) as well as offering staple classics. EERST SWEELINCKSTRAAT 19F, LITTLECOLLINS.NL

Cinetol

A fantastic multifunctional venue which feeds the creative community of De Pijp. There’s a small stage that hosts weekly live music from alternative bands and electro-indie pop to jazz and punk acts. Tolbar is located at the bottom of the building, serving up snacks and drinks on the lively terrace. Restaurant Freud

TOLSTRAAT 182, C IN E TOL .N L

Heidi Olijerhoek, founder of city spa and niche perfumery Babassu Beauty Boutique. ‘We have two locations in Amsterdam. Our original boutique in Zuid is in a very nice street with a mix of high-end boutiques, restaurants and the best butcher, baker, ice cream salon and chocolaterie in the city. In the city centre, opposite Soho House and next to W Hotel Amsterdam, our second boutique and award-winning spa is where we offer ‘green facials’ using brands like Tata Harper and The Organic Pharmacy. Our boutiques are a true cosmetics Valhalla. Our walls are lined with iconic brands that have a story, including exclusives like Santa Maria Novella, Miller Harris, Lorenzo Villoresi, By Terry, Cire Trudon and many others. It’s a concept that appeals to cosmopolitan men and women who take good care of themselves and want to discover new and exciting cosmetic brands, fragrances and treatments.’ CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 40 BABASSU.NL k

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West 64 | text: LOCAL Karin VIBES Engelbrecht

Westergasfabriek

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Gin-based cocktails at Mossel & Gin invite guests to linger long after the last oyster has been slurped. GOSSCHALKLAAN 12, MOSSELENGIN.NL q

Hipster Heaven

riginally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside the Canal Ring. Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories in peaceful Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed. Today, Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses, overflowing with nightlife options like pop-up DJ bar Radio Radio, trendy restaurants and even TonTon Club West, a retro arcade bar. There’s plenty to enjoy including markets with lots of bites and booze on offer, live music, and regular festivals. Next to Westerpark is up-and-coming neighbourhood Spaarndammerbuurt, full of early 20th-century history, including Amsterdamse School-icon Museum Het Schip.

The energy of Oud-West

In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze. This cosmopolitan area is full of shops and eateries interspersed between the residential avenues which border Vondelpark and a network of leafy canals.

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Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, whilst Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the area with its many bars, restaurants and design boutiques. A diverse selection of food, vintage fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned indie cultural centre complete with its own boutique hotel and a colossal indoor food court selling everything from bao buns to burgers.

BoLo

The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, two districts that are becoming hipper and more happening faster than you can say ‘BoLo’. Boasting an array of specialty coffee joints, bars, cool art spaces, neighbourhood parks and a young and multicultural crowd, this increasingly popular corner of Amsterdam is rapidly expanding into one of the city’s most dynamic creative outposts. Cultural establishments like the international theatre Podium Mozaïek respect the area’s multicultural heritage and dynamic community-orientated spirit.

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, eat and do in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

INSIDER TIP

‘Erasmuspark has everything you could want; a real community feeling, outdoor gyms, playgrounds for the kids and a great cafe, Terrasmus, which serves fantastic cappuccino and Turkish tostis.’ Jelle de Ruiter (30), marketing consultant

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No Man’s Art Gallery

Ketelhuis Cinema

BOS EN LOMMERWEG 90, NOMANSART.COM w

PAZZANISTRAAT 4, KETELHUIS.NL

What started as a travelling pop-up gallery in 2011, No Man's Art Gallery now showcases a rotating programme of international early-career artists at their permanent location. After catching an exhibition, the restaurant and bar is a great place to unwind with cocktails or coffee with a small bites menu that carefully balances flavours from across the world.

What started as a pop-up cinema in the Westergas cultural complex, has grown into an important Amsterdam landmark for Dutch cinema, international arthouse and documentary film. The driving force behind the venue is a dedicated team of volunteers who keep an eye on the smooth projection of the films and keep the food and drinks flowing from behind the well-stocked bar. e

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HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET

De Hallen

All housed in a converted tram depot that’s had something of a face-lift, De Hallen comprises not just a great range of artisanal shops but a hip industrial-chic hotel, De Filmhallen (the largest independent cinema in the Netherlands), and an indoor food court, De Foodhallen, packed with dozens of pop-up Find spenny designer eateries. This cultural complex also hides sevkids’ clothing and handeral lively spots like De Kanarie Club, a conmade toys, like these cept bar and workspace for those who like to Studio Escargot dolls at work and play hard. Big & Belg. HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE 47,DEHALLEN-AMSTERDAM.NL

JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 83 BIGENBELG.NL

Jan Pieter Heijestraat

In 1899 nine badly-built houses collapsed on this then-impoverished street, but thankfully things have greatly improved since, and today you’ll find trendy women’s fashion at Following Lucy, designer drinks at J&B Craft Drinks vintage furniture finds at Drinks, Dolores Del Dia, and ice cream with funky ‘funcones’ at Jan Pieter IJsje. t

In The Mirror

Get yourself decked out in the latest European styles, from fashionable pink-sequin face masks (€4), statement rainbow knits (€42.50) and chic oversized camel blazers (€59.95) at this trendy women’s fashion, lingerie, accessories and homewares boutique. Tip: you can get a 10% discount by taking a selfie of your new outfit in the golden shop mirror.

Two Chefs Food Bar

POSTJESWEG 84, INTHEMIRROR.NL

This undertaking from two chefs was founded in 2012 as a way to stock up on ‘funky’ beers they couldn’t find elsewhere, and it quickly grew. With names like the Funky Falcon (Pale Ale) and Dragons Kiss (Session IPA), you’ll want to try them all. Restaurant Freud

HUGO DE GROOTPLEIN 7-15 TWOCHEFSBREWING.COM y

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West 68 | LOCAL VIBES

Museum Het Schip

Learn all about the social, political and artistic context of the Amsterdamse School art movement at this unique museum, located in a former socialist housing block. This fascinating expressionist movement grew in the early 20th century, transforming the city landscape to make spaces more liveable. The museum organises guided tours around the complex and other parts of the city. OOSTZAANSTRAAT 45, HETSCHIP.NL

Hotel Not Hotel

Was the last room you slept in quite boring? Hotel Not Hotel offers unique not-rooms to stay in, like the mini Spanish villa or the elevated crow’s nest. Downstairs you’ll also find a food and cocktail bar called Kevin Bacon, which (much like the actor), has zero pretension, always delivers and consistently ensures everybody has a good time. PIRI REISPLEIN 34, HOTELNOTHOTEL.COM

Radio Radio

Restaurant DS

Party-goers might still be mourning the closure of De School’s iconic nightclub in 2020, but Restaurant DS remains open for business with a changing small-plate menu. The restaurant is located in a former workshop for training car mechanics, now converted into a beautiful industrial space that will take you back to your classroom years.

This pop-up DJ bar in Westerpark plays sets all night long every Thursday to Sunday. You can expect a curation of the coolest sounds from all over the world, and they livestream too. Stop by their Pizza Pizza restaurant for pizza, natural wines and more, before heading back to the dancefloor or settling down on the sunny terrace. PAZZANISTRAAT 3, RADIORADIO.RADIO s

D OCTOR JAN VAN BR E E M E N STRAAT 3 DESCHOOLAMSTERDAM.NL a

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With the largest assortment of dried flowers in the Netherlands, Flowers & Powers is the place to pick up stylish – and sustainable – dried flower arrangements. DE CLERCQSTRAAT 24H FLOWERSANDPOWERS.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Surely one of the best neighbourhood cafés in the area, Huiskamer van Rembrandt occupies an enviable spot on the edge of the much beloved Rembrandt Park. After a bracing circuit through the sprawling greenery, pop in for a slice of lasagne or apple pie on the scenic terrace.

Davide Bernabei, owner of The Shop of Beautiful Things. ‘I have a passion for beautiful objects, whether it be shoes, a light or a piece of furniture. I’ve always valued quality, exclusivity and craftsmanship but I found that I was always seeing the same pieces when shopping in Amsterdam. We want to offer something different. At our gallery-furniture store – a beautiful corner spot on Amsterdam’s furniture street, with huge windows and a high ceiling – we curate from about four or five artisan suppliers across Europe to keep everything as exclusive as possible for the Netherlands. So the pieces you see, you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else: timeless, classic, elegant but with a twist. My personal favourites include an artwork called “Growing Textiles” by Dutch artists Studio Mieke Lucia. It’s like a big coral on the wall but it’s made of wool and changes in the light because of the shadows it throws – quite hypnotic.’

OR TE LIU S KAD E 5 DEHUISKAMERVANREMBRANDT.NL

OVERTOOM 429 THESHOPOFBEAUTIFULTHINGS.COM

In Gold We Trust

Attain Dutch streetwear cred with the label embraced by local youth culture and beloved by rappers such as Future, Tyga and French Montana. At the flagship store, you’ll find bestselling GOTS-certified hoodies, sweaters and tees (M/F, from €74.95). KINKERSTRAAT 120A, INGOLDWETRUST-OFFICIAL.COM

Designed to resemble stylised tree branches, this black walnut coat stand (€1,331 at The Shop of Beautiful Things) makes a statement in any hallway.

Browse the whole collection – from €12 porcelain candle holders and €199 bent metal and wood side tables to €3,260 XL velvet corner sofas – at the striking flagship store of the Dutch furniture brand known for its ‘accessible luxury’. Fun feature: there’s a mini cinema, so you can literally try your sofa before you buy it. DE CLERCQSTRAAT 44, FEST.AMSTERDAM

FEST

Huiskamer van Rembrandt

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Nieuw-West

See what some of the art world's rising stars have been getting up to contemporary art space De Appel. Expect experimental exhibitions that are highly politically engaged. SCHIPLUIDENLAAN 12, DEAPPEL.NL

70 | THE GREEN DISTRICT

Cultural hotspots are popping up in NieuwWest, bringing fresh innovation and social soul to this green and spacious neighbourhood.

The New Kid recreation – whether that’s cycling, kayaking or simply taking a neighbourhood stroll, stopping off at one of the area’s up-andcoming coffee spots.

Urban hotspots

But it's not all peace and quiet in this end of town. RADION hosts everything from photo exhibitions to art fairs and booming techno nights. Meanwhile, new concepts pop up everywhere in the neighbourhood. Take for ex-

uilt during the expansion of Amsterdam’s western neighbourhoods in the 1950s, Nieuw-West is the largest and greenest district in the city. Diverse and spacious, the area incorporates leafy residential districts with culturally rejuvenated former business parks surrounding the Sloterplas Lake. From Rembrandtpark all the way up to the historic village of Sloten, you’ll find countless opportunities for relaxation and

INSIDER TIP

Markets

Anyone looking to taste the world will do well exploring the Westmarket Food Court w at Osdorpplein (open daily except Sunday). Tuck into a range of cuisines from Surinamese roti and Turkish pizzas to noodles, paella, shoarma, and doner kebabs. Ideal for fruit and veg, clothing, and daily essentials, Market Plein '40-'45 e is the largest and liveliest street market in the area. Awash with chatty vendors and bargain-hunting locals, the market square is a meeting place for the neighbourhood and is open from Tuesday until Saturday.

‘We love to go walking in Tuinen van West. It's a peaceful green paradise where you can relax and recharge, and it's close to our house . There's also an organic fruit farm that welcomes pick-your-own fans with open arms.’ Raja Felgata (45) & Khalid Ouaziz (45), founders of creative community agency Mr & Mrs Oasis

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Van Eesteren Museum t Noordzijde 31 vaneesterenmuseum.nl

BRET r Orlyplein 76 bret.bar

ample the beer bar BRET, concealed in repurposed shipping containers with its own urban vineyard and roof garden.

Around Sloterplas

Locals flock to the beautifully spacious Sloterplas Lake for its urban beach, surrounding parkland and swimming opportunities. When you need to refuel, head over to Hotel Buiten; not a hotel, but homely nonetheless, this stylish café-restaurant boasts spectacular waterside views. Right around the corner, Meervaart Theatre is the beating heart of Nieuw-West’s cultural scene, as a platform for the performing arts, home-grown

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multicultural cabaret acts and with a special kids programme. Or, on the northern shores, delve into the history of architecture and urban development in Nieuw-West at the Van Eesteren Museum, Museum where the collection encompasses indoor pavilions and open-air exhibits of houses, gardens and entire suburbs.

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Bar Bistro Bureau

Şerifoģlu

Baklava is a delicious Turkish sweet treat, made from layers of filo pastry filled with a mouth-watering mixture of walnut, pistachio, hazelnut, coconut and almond. The best baklava in town is to be found at Serifoglu. There are two locations, but if you have time, the Plein ’40-‘45 shop (Slotermeerlaan 115) is the right pick. In the café you can enjoy traditional baklava, sweets, pastries and savoury snacks. The perfect treat for sweet tooths. SLOTERMEERLAAN 115 & TUSSEN MEER 219-221, SERIFOGLU.NL y

Socialise with friends or network with business associates at Bar Bistro Bureau, a rooftop ‘park’ located on the fifth floor of B. Amsterdam – and with its abundance of potted plants and ivy-covered trellises, it truly is a park. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves a creative menu with international influences. The expansive rooftop terrace is especially popular for enjoying a glass of wine in the summer months.

RADION

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This multidisciplinary creative haven, located in a former medical office building, hosts everything from sword-fighting workshops to booming techno nights. You’ll find a steady flow of art, music, dance and other cultural events on the agenda, as well as a cinema and a café/bar serving lunch and dinner (and drinks). LOUWESWEG 1, RADION.AMSTERDAM

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Nine Streets

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Centre’s Contrasts

he cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is defined by its contrasts. De Wallen is a fantastic juxtaposition of historic churches, romantic bridges, age-old architecture and late-night pursuits. Quirky museums and world-class cultural institutions are often hidden behind beautiful canal-side façades and leaning gabled houses. The historic Spiegelkwartier is an absolute must for lovers of art, antiques and curiosities, as specialised dealers offer a wide variety of treasures. Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross the Singel into the elegant Nine Streets area, where Dutch fashion designers and the city’s artisans – chocolatiers and cheesemongers included – show off their quality wares.

At home in the Jordaan

A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life. This once workingclass bastion was renowned for tight community bonds, radical politics and a love for drink and over-the-top sing-a-longs. Gentrification of decades

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past has attracted more galleries, restaurants and specialty shops to its scenic streets but there’s undeniably still a distinct atmosphere to be enjoyed here. The bustling markets and lively cafés merge into the Haarlemmerstraat/-dijk, lined with vintage boutiques, concept stores and countless options for lunch and coffee.

Museum hotspot

Just east of the centre, De Plantage is a lush cultural garden with elegant tree-lined boulevards that are teeming with attractions. Among the theatres, concert halls and public parks, you’ll find a wealth of institutions dedicated to fine art, Jewish culture and natural history, including Artis Zoo and Hortus Botanicus. The development of Artisplein and world-class museums such as Museum Het Rembrandthuis mean the area is heralded as the alternative museum quarter. Student-run initiatives such as the Kriterion cinema bring a fresh energy and the former warehouses along the Entrepotdok have since been converted into exhibition spaces and fine-dining restaurants.

The world-famous historic Canal Ring is a stunning sight to be sure, but there is so much more to Amsterdam’s City Centre district (‘Centrum’).

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‘For the boutique shops that sell unique pieces of clothing and home decorations, Haarlemmerstraat is the place to go. And if you want to relax afterwards you can just keep walking until you reach Westerpark.’ Mariana Sales (28), communication sciences teacher

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Het Rembrandthuis

This beautifully restored townhouse captures the far-reaching legacy of Rembrandt van Rijn. The legendary painter lived here for several decades when he was at the height of his career. See where Rembrandt created many of his most famous works in the studio, admire a large display of original etchings and explore the living quarters for a glimpse into his everyday life. JODENBREESTRAAT 4, REMBRANDTHUIS.NL

Noordermarkt

A flea market and farmers’ market in one, Noordermarkt’s Saturday stalls are a haven for delicious, organic produce including honey, cheese and homemade cakes, as well as antiques, books and vintage fashion. To avoid the weekend crowds, head there on Monday morning – and it’s worth stopping for a comforting slice of apple pie at the famous Winkel 43 nearby. NOORDERMARKT-AMSTERDAM.NL

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Find ‘The Perfect Mismatch’ at Love Stories (€125 for the bralette, briefs and thong set).

HERENGRACHT 296-298 LOVESTORIESINTIMATES.COM

Hannekes Boom

PRETTIEST SHOPPING STREET

Marineterrein

The Marineterrein is teeming with hotspots that offer fantastic views over the water whilst encouraging local Maritime Museum business. Part of Pension Homeland, a hotel and restaurant, Brouwerij Homeland r (Kattenburgerstraat 5, brouwerijhomeland.nl) has become a hub of additive-free, honest beer (try the Katzwijm IPA). The large waterfront deck enjoys a lovely perspective over the Eastern Dock, near to the National Maritime Museum t (Kattenburgerplein 1, hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl) and its docked VOC ship replica. Blissfully off the beaten track on the opposite bank, Hannekes Boom y (Dijksgracht 4, hannekesboom.nl) exudes a quirky vibe and boasts one of Amsterdam’s best beer gardens.

Herengracht

©BAS UTERWIJK

The ‘Gentlemen’s Canal’ is a picturesque shopping route that elegantly arcs around the city centre. Though still largely residential, with stunning 17th-century architecture, the canal also encompasses stylish boutiques such as INDI&ME, OU. Boutique Stories and Property Of… most of which are clustered around the Nine Streets and Herenstraat.

Mediamatic

Bold, groundbreaking, and always intriguing, this art centre has been creating installations that celebrate biotechnology, media and organic cuisine since 1983. The atmospheric waterfront restaurant breathes new life into plant-based dining with inventive dishes that showcase the city’s best locally sourced ingredients, largely grown in the kitchen’s very own greenhouse. Restaurant Freud

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Bitterzoet

Bitterzoet has established itself as one of Amsterdam's core music venues, both in collaboration with pop temple Paradiso, as well as an independent party location. Every day there is a different DJ line-up, band or theatre production, attracting a musically eclectic fan base: from rock through punk, hip-hop, soul and funk to reggae – and everything in between. SPUISTR A AT 2 , BIT TERZOET.COM

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De Koffieschenkerij

Tucked away in the cloister garden behind De Oude Kerk (which hosts fantastic exhibitions and concerts), De Koffieschenkerij is hidden in plain sight. Indulge in loose-leaf teas or coffee with apple cake. Its garden terrace is a hidden paradise that’s a true local’s favourite. O U DEK ERKS P L EIN 27, KOFFIESCHENKERIJ.COM

Mendo Flagship Store

At this visually inspiring ‘home for aesthetically pleasing books’, lovers of high style will find the world’s best books on design, fashion, architecture, art, music and photography, including Mendo’s own recently published ‘L’HOMO Le Book’ (€27.50), a celebration of ‘eroticism, humour and guts’. NIEUWE DOELENSTRAAT 10, MENDO.NL

Dignita Hoftuin

Enjoy great coffee, brunch and an eye-popping spread of pastries at Dignita, a sun-soaked café set in the exquisite Hoftuin gardens. As you’re munching on carrot cake or the signature eggs benedict (two particularly highly-rated menu items), you can feel good as the restaurant is part of a not-for-profit initiative that helps vulnerable adults to get back into the workplace. N IE U W E H E R E N G RAC H T 18A EATWELLDOGOOD.NL s

From delicate little cacti to towering palms, those with even a mild interest in botany will be truly taken by one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, housing over 4,000 different plant varieties. The garden is home to several fascinating greenhouses, including the Palm Greenhouse (an official monument) and the dazzling butterfly house. PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN 2A DEHORTUS.NL d

Hortus Botanicus

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Citizens of the world will feel right at home at Concrete Matter, a treasure trove of ‘mantiques’ such as this Fokker G1 desktop model (€195). GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG 12, CONCRETE-MATTER.COM

Moychay

Tea connoisseurs should make a beeline for this new shop, which boasts over 30 types of premium looseleaf teas (including green and herbal teas as well as pu-erhs, oolongs, mate and sandalwood). It’s also a treasure trove of teaware and -accessories including handcrafted teapots. And there’s a tea bar and tea ceremony rooms, too. ROZENGRACHT 92 TOGO.MOYCHAY.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Various Jianshui ceramics teapots at Moychay, from €140.

With over 30 kinds of freshly smoked fish and meat products and countless other gourmet goodies, this is undoubtedly the most authentic deli in town. If you’re exploring Amsterdam by boat, do pre-order Frank’s Blini Box (smoked eel, halibut and Chinook salmon, along with wild salmon caviar, 16 preprepared blinis and horseradish sauce, €54.99) or the Oyster Happy Hour box (12 wild Irish rock oysters, mignonette, a bottle of bubbly, and a baguette with smoked butter, €49.50). OOSTENBURGERVOORSTRAAT 1, SMOKEHOUSE.NL

Frank’s Smoke House

Waterlooplein flea market

Waterlooplein flea market is the oldest street market in the Netherlands, open six days a week and with over 300 stalls. Expect to find all manner of treasures, vinyl and vintage goods, clothes, food and jewellery. You might want to brush up on your bargaining skills: most stalls sell things cheaply, but a few might expect you to haggle. WATE R LOOP LE IN.AM STE R DAM

Joseph Segaran (37), Amsterdam-based artist. British artist Joseph Segaran has been crafting papercuts and delicate ink drawings of the city’s dazzling architecture since 2006. Segaran often creates bespoke house portraits for clients, which he wedges into a row of canal houses that he picks from elsewhere in the city. Surprisingly, it works, but ‘that’s the beauty of Amsterdam’, he says. ‘You don’t have an iconic building like the Eiffel Tower here; it’s all about the canal house.’ Joseph’s non-commissioned work is also a creative mishmash of ‘real buildings but not in the real order.’ His pretty black-and-white postcards are available at most museum shops, and his larger line drawings and papercuts are for sale at Waterstones bookshop (Kalverstraat 152), Lunchroom 108 (Haarlemmerdijk 108) and his own website (from €300 for a large papercut, as pictured). JOSEPHSEGARAN.COM

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Zuidoost

Sample specialty beers and a seasonal menu at Bird Brewery’s tasting room, surrounded by the stunning nature of Diemerbos.

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This vibrant cultural melting pot with large-scale entertainment gives you a whole different perspective of Amsterdam.

Johan Cruijff ArenA, Ziggo Dome and AFAS Live are where you’ll want to be if you’re looking for football matches, mega concerts or Star Trek Marathons; and their schedules are always full.

Green spaces

Zuidoost has culture, but it also has green. Gaasperplas is a gem of a space. The park is an intricate web of streams and bridges, and paths for walking, hiking,

uidoost is about as far away as you can get from your typical canalsand-clogs image of Amsterdam, but as one of the most culturally diverse and forward-facing districts, it is a side of the city that shouldn’t be overlooked. It is home to all that is big in the world of entertainment. Here you’ll find the city’s largest cinema, two of its biggest festivals and all the concerts and football matches you will ever need. The

Rising Star

INSIDER TIP

Bijlmer Parktheater

Circus, dance, music and theatre find a place in this modern theatre. There's an innovative schedule of performances and activities reflecting the community's multicultural background. Check the schedule for listings of community theatre perfomances, or inspire your kids and teens by enrolling in an afternoon class in circus, dance or theatre. ANTON DE KOMPLEIN 240 BIJLMERPARKTHEATER.NL

‘The Gift of Colour at Nelson Mandela Park is a community garden from Bloei & Groei with a difference: they grow plants to make dye for clothes that will be sold at a shop at the nearby Amsterdamse Poort shopping centre. It's a 100% local and sustainable initiative.’ Angel Everts (36), community gardening teacher

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The Cycleseeing tour guides you along the best spots in the neighbourhood. See page 86 to get all the details. IAMSTERDAM.COM/CYCLESEEING

79 biking and horse-riding. It also has a couple of beaches. Those wanting to dance the night away can keep an eye out for festivals like the Amsterdam Open Air and the Reggae Lake Festival. A bit further east is Bijlmerweide, a beautiful and family-friendly farm and café, and there are plans to create a park on top of a tunnel that stretches from Gaasperdam to the Bijlmer.

Multicultural highlights The area also has a lot of cafés and eateries, plenty of shops and a colossal shopping mall if that sounds like your kind of day out. Each year, Nelson Mandela Park plays host to the fantastic Kwaku Summer Festival, a multiweekend event in Juy with live performances, dozens of food

and shopping stalls, and a host of lectures. Or if you’d like to pick up some African fufu, authentic Japanese sushi or a grill plate from Turkey – and would rather not spend a fortune on airfare – then World of Food is the place to go. Over in the residential borough of Bijlmer, you’ll find surprising cultural highlights such as the Open Space Contemporary Museum (OSCAM) and Bijlmerbios, filmfestival turned arthouse cinema venue.

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Heesterveld

This former apartment block in the colourful Heesterveld Creative Community, was once in a developing area but has since transformed into a cultural breeding ground, with ateliers in the former basement storage rooms and the artists’ homes above. Admire the street art or visit GLLRY ZOH, an art platform and project space with its own Bed & Breakfast. When you’re feeling peckish, head over to Oma Ietje. HEESTERVELD 3, OMAIETJE.NL

The Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM) was opened to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Bijlmer. Working in collaboration with Amsterdam’s leading cultural institutions, OSCAM stages accessible exhibitions designed to attract youth to Bijlmer through high-quality art, fashion and design presentations involving both known and unknown creative talent. BIJLMERPLEIN 110, OSCAM.NL

Low on pretence but bursting with flavours, this 3,000m2 food court housed in a parking garage offers your taste buds a trip around the world via a line-up of 25 kitchens that range from Ghanaian to Thai. Whether it's the Moroccan snapper with cassava or roti chicken, there'll be flavours to delight and impress you.

World of Food

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ALMERE, AN IMPRESSIVE ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM IN THE OPEN AIR designed by world-famous contemporary architects like Rem Koolhaas

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@visitalmere

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Day Trips

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Discover the Amsterdam Area

Beaches Flowers Old Holland Haarlem New Land Castles & Gardens

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

Around the city

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There’s so much to be discovered when you step out of the city to explore the wider Amsterdam Area. In less than 60 minutes from Amsterdam city centre, you’ll find excellent cultural cities such as Haarlem, beaches and dunes, the majestic windmills of Zaanse Schans, the famous tulip fields in and around the Keukenhof, and historic towns such as Edam, Naarden and Volendam. Perfect for a day trip!

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Beaches 82 | SEA SIDE

Let’s get Sandy To catch some sunshine on the coast, head to the Dutch seaside. Only a 30-minute journey from Amsterdam by train, there are plenty of things to do for thrill- and chill-seekers alike.

Sand sculptures

Every year, mountains of sand are formed into the most beautiful and detailed sculptures during Zandvoort’s Sand Sculpture Festival. Participants from all over Europe are given a week to complete their creations, using special river sand brought in for the occasion. The impressive sand spectacles can be seen on several of Zandvoort’s squares, both in town and along the boulevard. The Sand Sculpture Festival can be visited for free until the end of August. VISITZANDVOORT.COM

Dutch dunes

Take a dedicated cycle path from the coastline to the Waterleiding dunes for a hike through the nature reserve. Perhaps you’ll spot one of the many deer or foxes, or you might stumble across a WWII bunker. To the north of Zandvoort, you’ll find the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, where you can take a stroll or a leisurely bike ride. Watch out for the Konik horses and Highland cattle – they roam freely throughout the park.

Water sports

VISITZANDVOORT.COM

Northwest of Amsterdam, the beach at IJmuiden is a fantastic spot for sports lovers. You’ll find the locals heading to the sea in droves to spend the entire day splashing around in the water. Test your balance with stand-up paddle boarding or catch some serious air flyboarding. And if you’re not into water sports, try blokarting, a unique wind-powered go-kart that lets you zoom around the dunes. Whatever your passion, there’s a place to do it at IJmuiden.

New Year swim

On 1 January at 2 PM sharp outside beachclub No5 in Zandvoort, join a group of brave swimmers taking their first dip of the year. Every year, thousands of people from Amsterdam and the surrounding area meet to see in the New Year, North Sea-style. After the swim, reward yourself with a steaming mug of hot chocolate with wipped cream from one of the beach pavilions.

IJMUIDEN.NL

1 JANUARY, VVVZANDVOORT.COM

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IJmuiden is one of the best places in the Netherlands to spot seabirds. From purple sandpipers to rock pipits and turnstones, there's always an array of creatures gliding through the air and nestling down.

Find out more about day trips to Amsterdam Beach on iamsterdam.com/ beach

Juttersmu-ZEE-um

Beachcombing was once part of everyday life for the people of Zandvoort, as they sought out a means of earning additional income. While beachcombing is now more a hobby than a sideline, it exposes some fascinating finds. The Juttersmu-ZEE-um holds a number of these artefacts and curiosities collected from the local beach, including a series of messages sent in bottles from all over the world! The museum also shares facts about the local residents and their ties with the sea and the beach. A highlight for kids is the sea aquarium. Entrance to this family museum is free.

Forteiland

JUTTERSMUSEUM.NL

Forteiland (Fortress Island) is part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This unique, partly underground fortress was built in the 1880s to help defend the surrounding area and restrict shipping traffic heading for Amsterdam. During WWII, Fortress Island was used by the German soldiers as part of the Atlantic Wall, which is when its additional military bunkers were constructed. This iconic post is the defence line’s largest building and well worth a visit. Some of its most interesting features include an impressive dining hall, a dungeon and an armoury. Visit the island on ‘public days’ that are held on the first Sunday of every month between March and November. FORTEILANDIJMUIDEN.COM

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Beach hotspots

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How to get there

During the summer months, beach bars pop up everywhere in the area. In winter and early spring, a few of them are open along the Zandvoort aan Zee coastline. Try Tijn Akersloot (Boulevard Paulus Loot 1B, tijnakersloot.nl) for the ultimate beach-club atmosphere, Club Nautique (Boulevard Barnaart 23, clubnautique.nl) for modern Mediterranean food, Thalassa (Strandafgang 19, thalassa18.nl) for excellent fish and seafood, or the welcoming atmosphere at De Haven van Zandvoort (Strandafgang Paulus Loot 9, dehavenvanzandvoort.nl).

Zandvoort: Direct train service from Amsterdam Central Station to Zandvoort aan Zee – 30 minutes IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk station to bus stop Badweg – 45 minutes Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: Train service from Amsterdam Central Station to station Overveen and a short walk to the visitors centre – 25 minutes

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Flowers 84 | A WORLD OF COLOURS

Find out more about day trips to the tch o e region on iamsterdam.com/ area

Holland in Bloom The Dutch flower region produces a staggering 70% of the world’s commercial flower output, so a trip to this worldfamous landscape is well worth it.

De Olmenhorst

Landgoed de Olmenhorst is a green oasis of apple and pear orchards. This historic estate is over 160 years old and specialises in organic products. Take a stroll through its lush orchard or enjoy a meal or high tea on the terrace at De Fruitloods, an on-site restaurant. OLMENHORST.NL

Keukenhof

Cruquius Museum

24 MARCH-15 MAY, KEUKENHOF.NL

HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

Each spring, the Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse come alive with blooming flowers in every colour of the rainbow. Visitors can explore over 32 hectares (that’s 7 million flower bulbs) of parkland, awash with the sight and scent of blossoming flowers. See the flower shows, experience this year’s theme pavilion and delight in the statues dotted around the park. You'll also find a host of performances, traditional costume shows and of course, the fabulous annual flower parade during Easter weekend.

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Built in 1849, Cruquius pumping station is a unique industrial monument. The steam-powered pumps were used to pump Lake Haarlemmermeer dry, marking the breakthrough of the Industrial Revolution in the Netherlands and leaving behind only the flat polder landscape. The pump was decommissioned in 1933 and is now on display in the recently redesigned museum where interactive exhibits explain the history of reclaimed land and Dutch water management.

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If you’re into flowers, plants and greenery in general, don’t miss the Floriade in Almere. See page 92 for more info. FLORIADE.COM

FloriWorld

Discover how plants and flowers impact daily life, take a selfie among a backdrop of blossoming blooms and marvel at the amazing artistic creations handcrafted by expert florists. If you want to take a memento home with you, make sure to bid on a bouquet in the auction hall at the end of the tour. FLORIWORLD.COM

Royal FloraHolland

Royal FloraHolland in Aalsmeer is the world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth). The unusual sales method used gave rise to the phrase ‘Dutch auction’. Dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a ‘clock’ that counts from 100 down to one; thus, the price is lowered – rather than raised – until a buyer is found. The best action is between 7 AM and 9 AM in the morning so you’ll have to get up early to see it, but flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine, and with an (optional) knowledgeable multilingual guide, you can witness the auction firsthand. ROYALFLORAHOLLAND.COM

Flower Art Museum

Few subjects in art span such a wide range and inspire so many diverse artists as the flower. This museum hosts exhibitions that all revolve around the representation of flowers and plants in contemporary art. Catch their Nature Art Fair in January and the exhibition by Iranian-Maltese artist Lida Sherafatmand in spring (19 February-17 April). Sherafatmand's paintings are fairytale worlds abundant with beautiful flowers. It is her way of fighting the darker sides of human existence: “The more I hear violent news, the more I paint gentle flowers.”

Keukenhof Castle

It may be perpetually outshone by its showy neighbour, but this castle (located opposite Keukenhof gardens, a must when you visit Amsterdam in spring) boasts an impressive history. A wander around the castle brings new life to the 400-year-old history. Learn about the previous inhabitants inside, then head outdoors to view the unique sculpture collection, or to look for the ‘hidden’ gardens tucked away on the wooded estate. 2 CLASS

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How to get there Keukenhof: Take bus 852 from Amsterdam RAI staion, or 858 from Schiphol to bus sto e enho on n the o e season March-May) – 35 minutes Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland – 55 minutes

FLOWERARTMUSEUM.NL

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Cycleseeing 86 | ADVERTORIAL

fReE CyClEsEeInG AMsTeRd AMsTeRdAm

Waterland

Find the Cycleseeing route maps at bike rental shops or online.

All you need is... A map: There are nine Cycleseeing route maps that fold neatly into a pocket-sized booklet to take with you. The maps are available at most bike rental shop in town, free of charge. You can also find the routes online at iamsterdam.com/cycleseeing (and available offline, handy when you're cycling). A bike: Amsterdam has plenty of bike rental shops, chances are you have already spotted one. If not, go to iamsterdam.com/cycleseeing. Bikes usually cost around €7.50 per hour to rent, or around €15 for a whole day. When renting a bike, make sure the rental company displays the I amsterdam approved sign. A smartphone: Use it to find out the weather, and of course as a camera. You can share your photos on the Cycleseeing platform. You can also use the Cycleseeing maps on your phone while cycling. A nose for adventure: Your route can be as easy or as complicated as you like – take our advice for a half-day ride, or add extra trips as you go along to extend your stay.

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TOP TIPS

The best way to see the Netherlands is by bicycle. All you need is a bike and a route, and your adventure can begin.

hile visiting Amsterdam, it may look like the rest of the country is a faraway place that takes a lot of planning to visit. Not so! The rest of the country starts only a few kilometres from Amsterdam’s city centre. With Cycleseeing Amsterdam you can explore the area around the city. You can visit villages that are older than Amsterdam, admire the famous windmills and typical Dutch scenery, and explore new and modern neighbourhoods. Cycleseeing is a series of cycle routes that cater to everyone’s taste and level: you can cycle as much or as little as you please. The Dutchies got it right: cycling may just be the best – and eco-friendly – way to get around. You can move fast, but slow enough to really get a good view of everything. And you’re the boss of your own schedule. If you want to take a closer look at that windmill or peek inside that pretty museum, your bike isn’t going to stop you. An added advantage: this is the flattest country in the world! And as the Dutch network of cycling routes is safe, fast and easy to navigate, and you’re always near a city or town (flat tyre, no problem), there’s no reason not to get on that bicycle!

Amstel River Amsterdam wouldn’t be Amsterdam without the Amstel River. The Amstel River route follows the river’s flow out of the city, taking you deep into the typical Dutch countryside and old towns such as Ouderkerk aan de Amstel.

Explore by bike

Bijlmer & Gaasperplas Officially known as AmsterdamZuidoost and Bijlmermeer, this ‘hood of hoods’ is simply called ‘Bijlmer’ by the locals living here. Bijlmer is the only place in the Netherlands where you can experience the positive effects of 130 different nationalities living together: from a Syrian lunch, to a tailor-made West African dress, to the best roti in town – and that’s just for starters.

Industrial heritage In this part of the Netherlands people have lived in the shadows of huge factories for well over a century. Some of these are still in use today, others have been transformed into apartments or cultural venues. Yet the real jewel of this journey is the Zaanse Schans – a living village of windmills, wooden houses and artisanal workshops that seems frozen in time.

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Old Holland 88 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Windmills on the Waterside With its windmills, arts and crafts, and Industrial Revolution heritage, discovering Old Holland feels like taking a step back in time.

Zuiderzee Museum

Enkhuizen’s Zuiderzee Museum tells the stories of the people who once made the shores of the Zuiderzee their home. As you wander among the exhibits you can practically see, hear, taste and smell everyday life around the Zuiderzee as it was before the major Afsluitdijk dam transformed the sea into the IJsselmeer in 1932. ZUIDERZEEMUSEUM.NL

ZAANS.NL

Het HEM

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Waterland

Waterland’s flat polder landscape – with its expansive fields and old-style stolpboerderijen – throws up moments that feel lost in time. It’s a place where endless panoramas are punctuated with places of real beauty: the UNESCO World Heritage site De Beemster boasts scenic waterways, dykes, restored mills and charming, traditional farmhouses, as well as De Rijp, which has been dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’.

A former munitions factory and exceptional architectural space now transformed into a cultural centre, Het HEM is home to temporary art exhibitions (named ‘chapters’), museums, restaurants, bars and a house library. For fine food dine at the Europa restaurant or LAB-44, then grab a cocktail and enjoy the evening.

Walking in the Zaan region

Curious to learn the stories behind the windmills and warehouses? Wander through the Zaan region and explore the Netherlands’ industrial past as you spot traditional houses, charming windmills, old factories and workshops. Just north of Amsterdam, the industrial heritage stretches along the banks of the River Zaan. Follow walking trails to see the perfectly preserved windmills of Zaanse Schans.

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Cheeeeese

The Dutch take their cheese very seriously – and you should too! There are several cheese farms still operating in Old Holland, many of which you can visit to learn the process of cheesemaking (and of course sample the products). De Kaaswaag Edam (Cheese Weigh-house) invites you to explore the cheesemaking traditions of Edam, the cheese capital of the Netherlands. Head to Alkmaar for the oldest cheese market of them all. On Friday mornings, cheeses are weighed and checked for quality: all done according to centuryold traditions. VISITALKMAAR.COM, VVVEDAMVOLENDAM.NL

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

Countless paintings, models and original instruments in the Windmill Museum will transport you back to when the Zaanstreek flourished as one of the first and most important industrial areas of Europe.

Verkade Experience and Zaans Museum Take a fascinating journey from the very first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, watch the original machines churning away and imagine yourself in the early 20th century. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customised Verkade chocolate bar or join in the games and become a chocolate expert. ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

Fisherman’s villages

For a fantastic trip back into Old Holland, head for Volendam, a picturesque town on the shores of the Markermeer, just 20 km north of Amsterdam. As the Netherlands’ most famous fishing village, there are plenty of opportunities to fill up on some fresh fish, whether it’s kibbeling – little pieces of fried fish – or herring, which is best eaten raw with onions. Sample a few fish stalls along the harbour or take a seat at one of the many seafood restaurants. Then take the Volendam Marken Express ferry to nearby Marken, which was once an island but is now connected to the mainland by a dyke. To grasp the old island’s history and people, head to the Marker Museum, then enjoy some more freshly caught seafood at one of the local eateries. MARKENEXPRESS.NL, MARKERMUSEUM.NL, VVVEDAMVOLENDAM.NL

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How to get there Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Direct train service from Amsterdam Central Station to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) – 15 minutes Fishing villages: Take a bus from Amsterdam Central Station to Marken (30 minutes), Volendam (30 minutes) or Edam (35 minutes)

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90 | CANALS, CULTURE & CUISINE

AMSTERDAM.THESTYLEOUTLETS.NL/EN

Amsterdam’s Charming Neighbour A city of remarkable history and culture, Haarlem is home to historical monuments and some of the Netherlands’ best museums, art and shopping.

Haarlem

Almost 100 brands with an exclusive mix of top international and national brands, and only eight minutes by train from Haarlem or Amsterdam. Shop till you drop at The Style Outlets.

De Adriaan windmill

De Adriaan windmill, originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the scenic Spaarne River on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. It burned down in 1932, and it took 70 years for local residents to raise enough money to rebuild the mill. The views of old Haarlem from the platform above the river and the city are not to be missed.

MOLENADRIAAN.NL

Gouden Straatjes

Haarlem has been voted as the Netherlands’ best shopping destination on several occasions, and a quick look around the boutique-lined streets will reveal exactly why. With everything from achingly cool concept stores to traditional markets, as well as charming antique and curiosity shops around every corner, it’s no wonder that Haarlemmers call their shopping district ‘de Gouden Straatjes’ (The Golden Streets).

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam. com/authentichaarlem

VISITHAARLEM.COM

Haarlem from the water

Amsterdam isn’t the only city famous for its canal cruises. Haarlem also has a close connection to water, with the Spaarne River meandering through the heart of the city, and various canals and waterways weaving their way between ancient monuments and sights. Canal cruise operator Smidtje offers cruises across the city. It’s a beautifully relaxed way to explore Haarlem and a great opportunity to get your bearings before exploring the sights in more detail. SMIDTJECANALCRUISES.NL

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No trip to Haarlem is complete without a visit to former church-turnedbrewery Jopenkerk, which brews and serves the best ‘real Haarlem’ beers on site. Head to this charming venue for delicious food and drinks, and naturally for a taste of the famous Jopen beer! Open for lunch and dinner, this is the place to sit back and sip a delicious cold drink as you watch the brewing process with a bird’s-eye view.

Grote Markt

Hosting regular festivals, concerts and markets, the Grote Markt is the hub of daily life in Haarlem and just happens to be one of the prettiest city squares in the country. Go there on a Saturday when the Netherlands’ finest street market rolls out its wares. And don’t forget to visit the Grote Kerk, also known as the St. Bavokerk. VISITHAARLEM.COM

Jopenkerk

Frans Hals Museum

Teylers Museum

A trip to the Teylers Museum – the oldest museum in the Netherlands – is like venturing through the back of a cupboard and into a strange new land. The extensive collection includes masterful paintings and drawings, ancient fossils and minerals, and instruments and books. It also hosts a changing line-up of exhibitions showcasing awe-inspiring science and art, and the building’s magnificent 200-year-old Oval Hall is an attraction in itself. Plus: in December the new Pieter Teylers Huis opens in a wing of the museum, letting you look inside the 18th-century house of the museum's founding father Pieter Teyler. Don’t forget this museum is free to visit with the I amsterdam City Card! TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

17th-Century portrait painter Frans Hals is one of Haarlem’s most famous sons, and his legacy can be seen all over the city. Nowhere more so than at the Frans Hals Museum, a large gallery dedicated to 17th-century art and Hals’ portraiture, and home to the largest collection of portraits by Frans Hals in the world. 2 CLASS

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How to get there Direct train service from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem – 15 minutes

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New Land 92 | WHERE MAN MEETS NATURE

Taming the Sea For centuries, the Dutch have reclaimed large areas of land from the sea. This man-made land provides vast scenic views, new cities filled with imaginative architecture, and not-to-be-missed Land Art.

Floriade

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Aviodrome

For those who have always dreamed of becoming a pilot, here’s your chance. The flight simulator at the Aviodrome, an aviation museum in Lelystad, is a must-do for flight enthusiasts. Tour a real Boeing 757 jumbo jet (yes, even the cockpit!) and get behind the controls of a F-104 Starfighter simulator for some real-life pilot training. Then, tour the museum to admire some of its most treasured artefacts, such as historic pilot and flight attendant uniforms, handbooks and more.

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Land Art

Flevoland is home to the world’s biggest concentration of Land Art – huge artworks made in, with and as a response to the surrounding landscape. There are nine works by artists such as Anthony Gormley, Daniel Libeskind and Richard Serra. The pieces vary greatly: some refer directly to the surrounding nature and the (short) history of the land they’re in, while others are inspired precisely by how untouched and fresh the landscape is. Best of all, you can see them all in one day on a guided tour or on your own with a car!

Once every ten years the gates open to the International Horticultural Exhibition Floriade. From April until October 2022 Almere will be the stage of this gigantic outdoor exhibition, where you'll discover green solutions from national and international innovators and brainiacs that make our cities more fun, more beautiful and more sustainable. Don't miss it!

New Land National Park

Head to this unique nature reserve to catch a glimpse of birds, deer, foxes and hares. The expansive fields and wetlands feel almost otherworldly. Make sure to stop by De Oostvaarder, the official visitor centre: as well as a café with a panoramic view, there is an exhibition, video room and viewing areas with telescopes looking out across the park.

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The Agora Theatre in the renovated city centre of Lelystad is a somewhat controversial building, designed by Ben van Berkel. Bright orange and a true attention-grabber!

Shopping at Batavia Stad

Almere architecture tour

With a history going back to just 1976, Almere is considered the Netherlands’ newest city. Don’t let that fool you, though, as in just a few decades it has grown into a hub of world-class architecture, drawing on the latest innovations in Dutch and international design. Go on a walking or cycling architectural tour to discover the Regenboogbuurt, a colourful residential neighbourhood; De Fantasie, which was built following a contest among architects; and the Rode Donders, a housing development comprising three large red silo-like buildings that tower over the water. VISITALMERE.COM

The Batavia

Find out more about day trips and the region on: iamsterdam. com/area

As is evident by the sheer existence of New Land, the Dutch pride themselves on their command of the water. One place to explore this special relationship is Batavialand, which celebrates everything nautical and provides an insightful look into the exceptional history of the Netherlands’ waterworks. The main attraction is the perfect reconstruc-tion of the 17th-century ship, the Batavia, towering over the wharf. The Flevoland Museum also tells the story of this oncesunken region.

Batavia Stad is a lakeside fashion outlet mall in the city of Lelystad that offers more than 250 fashion brands, cafés and restaurants. Bargain hunters flock here from around the country to seek out big brands at wallet-friendly prices. Look for 30-70% discount deals on fashionable items from prestigious Dutch and international designers. Visitors from outside the EU can benefit from even more savings by shopping tax-free. BATAVIASTAD.COM

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How to get there Almere City Centre: Direct train service from Amsterdam Central Station to Almere Centrum – 20 minutes Lelystad City Centre: Direct train service from Amsterdam Central Station to Lelystad Centrum – 40 minutes Batavia Stad and Batavialand: Batavia Stad Shopping Shuttle Bus departs daily from Amsterdam River Cruise Port (De Ruijterkade 153), free with your City Card New Land National Park: Train service to Almere Oostvaarders station. From there it’s a 20 minute walk to the visitor centre – 60 minutes

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TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

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Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam. com/castles

Castles & Gardens LIFE BY THE WATER |

Riverside Fortresses and Mansions

Explore 17th-century history by visiting ancient castles and country estates. And while you’re at it, sail along the rivers dreaming of an aristocratic life by the water.

Fortress towns

Muiderslot Castle

The Amsterdam Area is full of sleepy little villages where you can find the remains of castles dating back to medieval times. Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting. MUIDERSLOT.NL

Pampus

Seen across the water, the small island of Pampus looks like any other island. But take a closer look and you’ll see this is no natural land mass at all, but a submerged sea fort built in the 1890s to protect Amsterdam from its enemies. After a restoration in 2007, you can now visit Fort Pampus by boat (take the ferry from Amsterdam IJburg) to explore its secret tunnels – and it’s also a popular location for events.

With its massive fortresses and castles, the region once provided protection against the Netherlands’ enemies with its many fortresses. Now, visitors can roam the bastions and imagine life hundreds of years ago. Naarden is one of the most remarkable examples of a fortified town in Europe, with its centre surrounded by two elaborate starshaped moats and stonewalls. As well as cafés and shops, Naarden is home to the Fortress Museum (Vestingmuseum). It’s a fantastic starting point for exploring De Stelling van Amsterdam (the Defence Line of Amsterdam), a 135-kilometrelong ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital. 2 CLASS

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How to get there Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot: Direct train from Amsterdam Central Station to Weesp station, transfer to bus 110 to bus stop Muiden centrum – 30 minutes Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA station to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden – 40 minutes

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Before You Leave

96 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘I found the best place in Amsterdam for bubble tea, Sootea, on Sint Luciënsteeg. The matcha flavour with chewy tapioca bubbles is the one to go for!’ Charvi Mantri (26), product designer from Mumbai, India

‘I really like finding a chill spot on one of the bridges around the Reguliersgracht where I can just sit and watch the boats go past.’ Maria Estella (21), freelance photographer from Velbert, Germany ‘You have to take a trip to De Proefzaak, a restaurant attached to the Kleiburg microbrewery in Bullewijk. During the winter it’s cosy to sit inside and take a tour of the brewery, while in the summer the terrace is full of life.’ Andrea Fustolo (38), pastor from Latina, Italy

‘Pllek on NDSM is a must-visit place where you can enjoy great food, drinks and music with a beachy vibe.’ Miguel Baumann (35), leadership coach from Unterentfelden, Switzerland

‘The welcoming atmosphere at the Awakenings Festival is a fond memory for me. I had a great time dancing together with so many people there!’ Panna Chow (27), web developer from Hong Kong

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lesia Joukova, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (Alison McGarry), Verity Seward, Steven Strijbosch advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or +31 20 702 61 80 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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Need to Know Where to get your information, how to get around, and other useful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

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Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

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AMS REGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

I amsterdam

With a selection of quality products With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and mustsee attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. More of an onIf you are a victim of crime, report it to the line shopper? Visit our police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or online shop for locally to report a crime in progress, call 112. For made goodies, from non-emergency situations requiring police design lamps to jewellery. assistance or to make an appointment to

In Case of Emergency

report a crime in person, call 0900 8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

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GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses with debit or credit card (cash is no longer accepted). To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is now illegal.

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Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands. • 1 January: New Years Day is an official public holiday • 15 April: Good Friday is not an official public holiday, but many businesses do close • 17 April: Easter Sunday is an official public holiday • 18 April: Easter Monday is an official public holiday • 27 April: King’s Day is an official public holiday • 4 May: National Remembrance Day is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close • 5 May: Liberation Day is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close • 26 May: Ascension Day is an official public holiday • 5 June: Pentecost Sunday is an official public holiday • 6 June: Pentecost Monday is an official public holiday • 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close • 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday • 26 December: Christmas (Boxing) Day is an official public holiday

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Find out more!

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