I amsterdam Magazine spring 2018 by amsterdam&partners

Eat & shop Brilliant breakfasts Dutch dining Shops, street to chic

Around town

What’s on

Insider's guide to Amsterdam + Make the most of the Dutch flower strip

Rolling Kitchens Festival Van Gogh & Japan Sunset Boulevard in Carré

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2018

Magazine

The Spring Issue

Pedal Power!

The most beautiful spring garden in the world Keukenhof is the place to enjoy millions of flowering tulips, daffodils and other bulb flowers this spring. A day full of experiences that you will not forget very quickly. The most beautiful spring garden in the world offers a unique scent and colour experience, over 20 spectacular flower shows, surprising inspirational gardens and many exciting events.

22 13

03 05

www.keukenhof.nl

Have a nice stay

2018

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

Vol 1 #2 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE

LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

OPERA FORWARD FESTIVAL — 13 - 26 March

Dutch National Opera

DAS FLOSS DER MEDUSA Hans Werner Henze — 13 – 26 March

Dutch National Ballet

DUTCH DOUBLES — 24 March – 15 April

Dutch National Opera

GURRE-LIEDER Arnold Schönberg — 18 April – 5 May

Dutch National Opera

LA CLEMENZA DI TITO W.A. Mozart — 7 – 24 May

Explore the world

Every Tuesday free lunch concerts –

Take off and fly to 265 destinations worldwide. With KLM and its partners, you can explore your world – klm.com

Every Saturday guided tours

operaballet.nl

Contents 3

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

04 Welcome PEDAL POWER!

Your guide to cycling in Amsterdam, where to hire a bike and get peddling like a local.

08 Your Stay MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

From canal cruises to museum visits, perfect itineraries for your stay in the city – from 12 to 96 hours.

15 Eat, Drink & Shop INDULGE YOURSELF

Discover the city’s most tempting stores, plus our pick of the must-hit dining and drinking destinations right now.

31 What’s On ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

From mobile food festivals to the latest art exhibitions, there’s never a dull moment in Amsterdam.

49 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

North, south, east, west – whichever area you’re in, our insider’s guide has you covered. This season’s feature: classy meets cultural in Zuid.

65 Day Trips

elcome to the first edition of Iamsterdam Magazine, formerly known as A-mag. When you leaf through it, you’ll notice that it’s built up around the stages of your visit. If you’re new to Amsterdam, the first thing you’ll want to do is catch the city’s highlights, which we’ve summarised in our itineraries: the Canals, the stately Rijksmuseum filled with Golden Age masterpieces, the Anne Frank House and more. But if you stay longer than a day or two, you may want to venture out into the neighbourhoods beyond those famous canals. In our City Guide we’ll lead you through them one by one. Leafy, stately Oud-Zuid, for instance, with its Museum Quarter (perfect for shopping, by the way). Or that other part of Zuid, folksy De Pijp neighbourhood, with the old Heineken brewery and Albert Cuypmarkt. Or catch the ferry from behind Central Station to Noord, the former industrial area that is being transformed into a first-class entertainment zone.

For more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

Take a few extra days and discover, beyond the urban area, a fascinating world of nature and beaches, medieval castles, flower fields and vast polders lined with picturesque old villages. They’re all part of Amsterdam, and within an hour of the city centre.

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Don’t miss the Netherlands in bloom at the Keukenhof flower gardens! Plus, there’s a world of windmills and castles, gardens and beaches…

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, SEE PAGE 78 V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Whether you are a first-time visitor or an experienced traveller, this magazine will inspire you to discover all of Amsterdam. Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, Iamsterdam Magazine

Welcome 4 | text: Lauren Comiteau

“You can’t get lost. It’s a halfhour bike ride from one end of Amsterdam to the other!" Amsterdam Bicycle Mayor Katelijne Boerma

Pedal Power! Amsterdam is encouraging its cyclists to put their best foot forward.

How far things have come since cycling was first introduced as an elitist pastime in the 1890s. Today 68% of every kilometre travelled in Amsterdam is by bicycle. It helps that the city is flat and compact. But the investment in cycling infrastructure that began in earnest in the

1970s continues to make Amsterdam the biking capital of the world. Plus, there is simply no quicker way to get around.

msterdam is home to more bicycles than people – and it certainly feels like almost everyone has taken to two wheels every time you step out to cross the road. Don’t be surprised if you hear the ding of a bike bell as you wander around the city streets – Amsterdammers just want to be sure they don’t run into you. So why resist the power of the pedal? If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!

Bicycle Mayor

Yes, Amsterdam has a Bicycle Mayor. And Katelijne Boerma wants to convince everyone that the bicycle is the best invention ever. “By cycling, we take care of so many things,” she says. “The planet, the body, the mind and even each other.” And with more than 800,000 bikes travelling the streets, Boerma joins a slew of city officials, entrepreneurs and cycling enthusiasts working to keep bike-riding among the city’s top transportation choices while tackling such problem as congestion, safety and even human relations.

Renting

A Dutch comedian once said that all the Netherlands needs is a roof. But Amsterdam’s Bicycle Mayor Katelijne Boerma says cyclists only have a 4% chance of getting wet. So if you want to go native, head to one of Amsterdam’s dozens of rental shops, including MacBike, whose distinctive crimson cycles will set you apart (macbike.nl). If you’re seeking something more discreet, sellers such as Stadsfiets also hire bikes in toned down hues that will have you blending in (stads-fiets.nl). (SEE IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR MORE COMPLETE LISTINGS)

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Welcome 6 | text: Lauren Comiteau

The great social leveller, cycling embodies the ultimate Dutch egalitarian ideal – everyone from the Prime Minister to the supermarket shelf stacker rides a bike. Some immigrants, says Boerma, see bikes as “poor man’s transport”. She is trying to convince them otherwise in a city where even the most aesthetically unpleasing cycles have been elevated to a status symbol by the well-to-do. “The more normal, the better,” she says. “If you’re Dutch, you cycle,” agrees Gelauff. And if you’re not? “Don’t pretend to be a local,” he advises. “Take it slowly, get used to the organised chaos. Then simply dive in and go with the flow.” So what are you waiting for? Rent your two-wheeler and hop right on!

The great leveller

Bicycle streets

For the past year the city has been experimenting with shared spaces where bicycles rule the road and cars are invited guests. You can find one on Sarphatistraat, where authorities say it has been so successful they’re expanding the concept into the city centre. For now, just follow the red asphalt roads that signal bicycle supremacy.

City officials, too, have for the first time made cycling etiquette a priority alongside improving infrastructure in their new five-year bicycle plan. “Cycling is an organic thing here, it’s not over-organised like in other cycling cities, and that’s what makes it special,” says David Gelauff, the city’s Bike Programme Manager. “One of my main jobs is keeping it like that in an increasingly crowded city.” Amsterdam has been experimenting with user-friendly techniques to elevate the cycling experience, basing many of them on how cyclists already use the roads. Widening the starting point of a bike lane, for example, helps keep cyclists within its lines and reduces conflict, while countdown signals at traffic lights helps keep things running smoothly. “A more efficient flow equals happier bikers,” says Gelauff.

Bikes by the numbers

Amsterdam has more bicycles than people: an estimated 847,000 bikes to 835,000 inhabitants. More than half of all city journeys take place on two – or three – wheels, with some 500 kilometres of dedicated cycle paths easing the way. Amsterdammers collectively travel two million kilometres. Every. Single. Day.

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Water, water everywhere

While land may be in short supply, water is a resource Amsterdam has in abundance, leading the city to take to its canals to erect bicycle-parking boats around Central Station and Leidseplein. In the true Dutch tradition of reclaiming land from the sea, city authorities are also building a parking garage under the IJ harbour.

Roetz-Bikes

What do you get when you combine a green enterprise with a social one? Roetz-Bikes, where in its Amsterdam North factory otherwise hard-to-employ workers “remanufacture” discarded bicycles into stylish steeds featuring sustainable cork handle grips and wooden fenders. The company saves 3,000 bikes a year from the 1 million-strong scrap heap, many of them turning up in the city’s OV-fiets bike fleet. Re-inventing the wheel at its finest. ROETZ-BIKES.COM

VanMoof

Award-winning Amsterdam bike maker VanMoof is on a mission: tackle bike theft and get more people cycling. The company began integrating a GSM/BLE tracking system into its bikes’ frames in 2016 with the promise that if one is stolen, their ‘bike hunters’ will get it back. As of this spring, all VanMoof bikes worldwide will feature this smart technology, which boasts a retrieval rate of 70% (compared to local police’s paltry 4%). “There are no more stupid bikes,” says VanMoof’s Karlijn Marchildon.

VANMOOF.COM

Cycling routes

Amsterdam has a route for every preference: The bike path under the Rijksmuseum is majestic, while the car-free boulevards of the Plantage offer scenic, stress-free cycling. Ride your bike on the ferry North to explore the area’s quaint villages or escape the bustle by following the Amstel River towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel. See iamsterdam.com for mapped routes or simply cycle with abandon.

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

6 Your Stay 8 | text: Alison McGarry and Jayne Robinson

How to spend your time in...

Soak up some culture at Museumplein If you don’t have time to see a whole museum, then surround yourself in culture at Museum Square – home to the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Moco. You can even cycle through the atmospheric Rijksmuseum passageway. DURATION: 1 HOUR

hrs

Explore the Jordaan and Nine Streets

Eat on the go

DURATION: 2 HOURS

If you only have a few hours to get a taste of Amsterdam, this historic neighbourhood is the place to go. A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard-perfect slice of Amsterdam.

For delicious food in a hurry, head to indoor food market De Foodhallen, where you’ll find more than 20 streetfood vendors serving up some of the best bites in Amsterdam. DURATION: 30-40 MINUTES

Everything in Amsterdam is better when viewed from a boat, and a quick one-hour tour is a great way to acquaint yourself with the city. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day (iamsterdam.com/canalcruise) or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card. DURATION: 1 HOUR

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Take a canal cruise

Explore a museum

Get some fresh air

Amsterdam is one of the greenest cities in Europe, and with more than 30 parks to choose from, you’re always within easy reach of a picnic spot, including the 47-acre Vondelpark and the stunning green oasis that's Rembrandtpark.

hrs

Now’s your chance to really delve into Amsterdam’s major museums. The Rijksmuseum is the country’s largest museum and home to Golden Age art from Rembrandt, Vermeer and more. See the work of one of the Netherlands’ most famous artists at the Van Gogh Museum, or delve into modern art at the Stedelijk – all three are included in the City Card. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Pancakes for breakfast (or lunch, or dinner)

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get into the Dutch spirit

At the end of a long day discovering Amsterdam, it’s time to disappear into one of the city’s many brown bars – traditional Dutch pubs – to mingle with the locals and sample some renowned Amsterdam jenever.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

12 Get your I amsterdam City Card for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers

You can’t spend a day in Amsterdam without sampling the nation’s favourite dish – pancakes. Popular spots for traditional pannenkoeken include The Pancake Bakery, Pancakes! and Mook. DURATION: 1 HOUR

Your Stay 10 | text: Alison McGarry and Jayne Robinson

24 Hop on the ferry to Amsterdam North

Try some IndoDutch cuisine

Few visitors to Amsterdam are aware that Indonesian food features highly in traditional Dutch cuisine. Most Indonesian restaurants serve rijsttafels (“rice tables”); a colonial Dutch creation of small dishes.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 3 HOURS

The city’s former gasworks is now a cultural complex surrounded by the green landscape of Westerpark. There are plenty of bars, restaurants, a brewery and an arty cinema to explore, so it’s always worth a visit. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Visit a canal house museum

By now you’re familiar with Amsterdam’s canal houses, but did you know that some allow you to look inside? Discover the history of the canals at Museum of the Canals, or see photography exhibitions in a 17th-century interior at the Huis Marseille, Museum of Photography – all free with the I amsterdam City Card.

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

DURATION: 2 HOURS (ONE MUSEUM)

hrs h rs

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Explore Westergasfabriek

To see Amsterdam from a different angle, board the free ferry from behind Central Station to cross the River IJ. The landmark A’DAM Tower offers panoramic city views, and the EYE Filmmuseum is a must for movie buffs.

48 11

See the world through a lens

Catch an exhibition at Amsterdam’s Foam photography museum (free with City Card), and you’re likely to encounter big names and up-and-coming shutterbugs alike. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Step into the secret annexe where the Frank family hid for more than two years during the Second World War. The Anne Frank House Museum is open late and gives visitors the chance to learn about her famous diary. Online booking only until 1 May.

Evenings at the Anne Frank House

Eat your way around De Pijp

Amsterdam’s De Pijp neighbourhood will leave you spoiled for culinary choice. Start at the Albert Cuypmarkt, lured in by the smell of stroopwafels and poffertjes (sweet Dutch treats), and continue on to the neighbourhood’s many cafés, wine bars and eateries.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Watch the sunset from NDSM © L ALI MASRIERA

The creative haven across the River IJ is a mustsee for its artsy atmosphere and restaurants. The former shipyard is now known for festivals, flea markets and graffiti art. DURATION: ALL NIGHT

See the ﬂoating ﬂower market

Amsterdam’s Flower Market on the Singel canal is a favourite spot to photograph all year around, but it’s especially stunning in spring, when the barges overflow with bouquets of fresh tulips. DURATION: 30-40 MINUTES © KOEN SMILDE PHOTOGRAPHY

hrs

Read more about our suggested itineraries on our website: iamsterdam.com/ itineraries

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

72 Your Stay 12 | text: Alison McGarry and Jayne Robinson

Relive the Golden Age

Sample local brews

To delve into Amsterdam’s Golden Age beginnings, wander around the fascinating National Maritime Museum. Here, you can even board a replica of a Dutch East India Company ship. And the nearby Tropenmuseum displays a treasure trove of curiosities collected on Dutch voyages. Both are free with the City Card.

hrs

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Although Belgium gets most of the recognition, the Dutch hold their own when it comes to craft beer. Sample some of the finest at Brouwerij ’t IJ, which boasts a sprawling terrace under the city’s tallest windmill.

Catch a classical concert

Venture east

The Royal Concertgebouw is a treat for lovers of classical music. If you’re lucky enough to take in an orchestral performance in the grand main hall, you’re sure to be impressed by the excellent acoustics and atmosphere. DURATION: APPROX. 1 HOUR

The city’s leafy Plantage neighbourhood is one of the best to discover with little ones in tow. Aside from its idyllic gardens and picnic spots, it’s home to the ARTIS Royal Zoo (free with the City Card), where little explorers can meet zebras, elephants, giraffes and more.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

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Visit historic fishing villages windmills and traditional houses. Explore the many museums that keep age-old traditions such as cheesemaking and clog-making alive.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS PER VILLAGE

Travel back in time to sleepy coastal towns that have remained virtually unchanged for centuries. In Zaanse Schans, Volendam or Marken, you can admire the scenic landscapes, towering

Amsterdam comes alive in spring, bursting with blooms in

Hit the shops in Haarlem

every colour of the rainbow. This is the time of year to

Haarlem is Amsterdam’s

cycle through the brightly striped region where 70% of the

best-kept secret when it

world’s flowers are grown. Don’t miss a visit to Keukenhof

comes to independent

in Lisse: a gigantic 32-hectare park dedicated to the

boutiques and specialty

national flower and other blooms.

design stores. Of course, the

DURATION: 4 HOURS

Read more about our suggested itineraries on our website: iamsterdam.com/ itineraries

Take in the tulips

city boasts all the household names, too. Spend the day perusing the racks and then head to nearby Bloemendaal or Zandvoort for a glass of wine on a heated beach club terrace to celebrate your purchases. DURATION: 2 HOURS

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Amsterdam Gifts 14

TOP 5 #iamsterdamstore

V@AMSTERDAM CUSHIONS Give a V@Amsterdam cushion and you’ll not only brighten up a loved one’s home, but you’ll also give much-needed support to the non-profit organisations in Europe that produce them. The canal house motifs add the spirit of Amsterdam to any decor, and upholds the time-honoured tradition of letterpress printing. Cushions and pillows, €60–€100

iamsterdam.com/store

POM SHAWLS Ladies can wrap themselves in Amsterdam wherever they go with these shawls from POM, a relatively young Dutch design duo and brand. Created in an Amsterdam studio, some of the many intricate patterns and high-quality fabrics used for the shawls are designed with the city in mind: such as a pattern of black and white bicycles and rows of chaotic canal houses in multiple colours.

RIVERSTONES You can’t go wrong with jewellery as a gift, especially if it’s jewellery made with meaning. Dutch brand Riverstones creates its pieces with the aim to bring moments of peace and reflection to the busy lives of women. €29.50–€39.50

€59.95–€99.95

O MY BAG Amsterdam company O My Bag crafts its beautiful, durable and decadently soft leather bags using sustainable materials in clean, safe tanneries. The bags are sewn in India by craftspeople working in factories for fair wages, and O My Bag also offers equal opportunities to women and minorities – that’s a lot of feel-good factor to carry around with you.

DE PINDAKAASWINKEL You won’t hear anybody saying “helaas, pindakaas” (Dutch expression that means “too bad”) when enjoying the purity of peanut butter from the Pindakaaswinkel. Founded by a farmer’s son who wanted something beyond simple flavours (and no additives), the Pindakaaswinkel offers flavours such as caramel sea salt, date and cinnamon, and white chocolate.

€59

€4.95–€5.95

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

IJ-hal

Central Station main entrance

Eat, Drink & Shop Zuid

For classic steak tartare, barbecued bavette and delectable ceviche with crunchy puffed quinoa and a fruity twist (pictured) go to Zuid, celebrity-chef Michiel van der Eerdeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contemporary all-day brasserie. STADIONWEG 320 RESTAURANTZUID.AMSTERDAM

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16 18 19 20 22 23 24 26 27 28

brilliant breakfasts asian cuisine sky bars the global village dutch dining fine dining chic shopping wine bars craft beer high street heaven

Eat

For Scandi-chic ceramics in the moody colours of the North Sea, you can’t go wrong at PLUK.

16 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

Dignita Hoftuin

Tucked away in a courtyard behind the Hermitage Amsterdam is a brilliant spot for a bang-on breakfast that goes way beyond smashed avo-on-toast. Do order the courgette and chickpea fritters with grilled halloumi, minty yoghurt, yolky poached eggs and cashew nut dukkah. Or go “Dutch and Delicious” with mini croissants, homemade bread, butter, Dutch cheese, free-range artisan ham, coffee and some freshly-squeezed orange juice. NIEUWE HERENGRACHT 18A EATWELLDOGOOD.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Rich, with a subtle crunch and hint of sweetness, the city’s best croissants (and wonderful things to put on them) can be found at Gebroeders Niemeijer.

Brilliant Breakfasts

Pluk

Start your day at this healthyeating hidey hole: think “smashed avo” sandwiches and “unicorn” smoothie bowls. Its Insta-ready interior is a study in marble and mirror. REESTRAAT 19 PLUK-AMSTERDAM.COM

From traditional Dutch farmer’s omelettes to unicorn bowls and kimchi toasties, Amsterdam’s breakfast scene has come a long way.

ou’d be forgiven for thinking that the Dutch approach to breakfast begins with pancakes, but you’d be wrong. In the Netherlands, pancakes are actually considered a main meal, or in the case of poﬀertjes (small fluffy versions), a sweet snack. However, these days most pancake places will cater to your carb-hungry cravings in the morning. So what, then, do Amsterdammers eat for breakfast? While cereals and granola have been gaining ground, bread (usually topped with cheese, jam, salted peanut butter or chocolate sprinkles known as hagelslag) is still the cornerstone of the traditional Dutch breakfast. If you simply have to have eggs, you’re in luck, because an eitje comes as standard. The real challenge is where to find them after noon when most places try to force their lunch menus (read: sandwiches) on one and all. Yes, lunch is a bready affair, too. And because Dutch ontbijt (breakfast) culture used to be strictly an at-home thing, it was actually Amsterdam’s expat entrepreneurs who brought a more international take on breakfast to the Amsterdam restaurant table in the early 2010s. First, there was British-owned Greenwoods, then followed Antipodean-inspired eateries like Little Collins, Bakers & Roasters and Drovers Dog, joined by Canadian-run Gs Really Nice Place, American-owned Staring at Jacob, and a host of others. Still, as long as you order your breakfast before noon, you’re in good hands at our current favourite picks.

Pancakes!

Try all the traditional Dutch varieties at this pancake house, or opt for the comfort of American blueberry stacks. BERENSTRAAT 38 PANCAKESAMSTERDAM.NL

Little Collins Try Hagelswag, a trendy take on Dutch breakfast sprinkles IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Pre-empt the brunch-crunch and get here early for saganaki toast, mushroom and bonito congee, or black bean and chipotle waffles. EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 19F LITTLECOLLINS.NL

Eat, Drink 18 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

Happyhappyjoyjoy

Familiar flavours from the panAsian playbook, such as black bao buns with crispy chicken, and crab salad with grapefruit and peanuts, are cheerfully presented in a contemporary China-red setting here. BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 158HS HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY.ASIA

Go East From classic Cantonese to trendy Thai, these are our top picks for Asian food in Amsterdam. SEA PALACE Cure all your Chinese comfort food cravings at this floating pagodastyle restaurant, where they do perfect Peking duck pancakes, crispy pork belly and some of the city’s best dim sum.

RON GASTROBAR INDONESIA Whether you go for Javanese chef Agus Hermawan’s traditional rice table or his creative riffs on Indonesian street food (Balinese chicken wonton wrapper tacos), this one’s a must-visit.

OOSTERDOKSKADE 8, SEAPALACE.NL

AMSTELZIJDE 51, RONGASTROBARINDONESIA.NL

JAPANESE PANCAKE WORLD For authentic okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese pancakes) look no further than this Jordaan-based specialist, where you’ll find three regional varieties. Our tip? Keep it simple. 2E EGELAN-

A-FUSION A long-time favourite with local foodies, this dependable Zeedijk eatery serves seriously good sushi and confusion-free pan-Asian fare at an affordable price.

TIERSDWARSSTR 24A, JAPANESEPANCAKEWORLD.COM

ZEEDIJK 130, A-FUSION.NL

BOI BOI Classic Isaan-style curries contrast tattooed Thai chefs and a trendy decor with graphic designs and whimsical window art. Do try the massaman!

SAPPORO RAMEN SORA This ramen joint lives up to its name (“the Sapporo heavens”) with the best tonkotsu in town. Creamy and rich, it’s perfect for early spring weather.

DAPPERSTRAAT 12, BOIBOI.NL

CEINTUURBAAN 49, SAPPORO.RAMENSORA.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

A’DAM Tower’s rooftop bar MA’DAM gives you a 360degree view of the city

Sure, every city has a rooftop bar with spectacular vistas, an exclusive pool or buzzing scene, but Mr Porter at the W Amsterdam has all three.

High Jinks Where to take your drinking game to new heights.

n Amsterdam, raising a glass at a rooftop bar pretty much means heading to a hotel, but with options in every price category, there’s something for everyone. At hip Volkshotel, there’s the casual 7th-floor Canvas with affordable food and drinks, club nights, and 360-degree views of the city, plus a terrific terrace. Or grab a window seat at DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam

Centraal Station’s 11th-floor SkyLounge with panoramic vistas of the River IJ and Old Centre. You can also sip your well-crafted cocktail on the award-winning (if windy) terrace there. Feeling flush? Choose from six Champagnes by the glass at Hotel Okura Amsterdam’s plush Twenty Third Bar, while enjoying a bird’s-eye view from intimate window booths 23 storeys above ground.

MA’DAM OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1, MADAMAMSTERDAM.NL • CANVAS WIBAUTSTRAAT 150, VOLKSHOTEL.NL/EN/ CANVAS • SKYLOUNGE OOSTERDOKSSTRAAT 4, SKYLOUNGEAMSTERDAM.COM • MR PORTER SPUISTRAAT 175, MRPORTERSTEAKHOUSE.COM • TWENTYTHIRDBAR FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 333, OKURA.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Shop 20 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerdijk

The Global Village From vintage dresses to designer rainwear, these areas have something for everyone.

Tally-Ho

Mendo

Colourful tomes brighten up an inky womb of leather-clad walls and matt bookcases made entirely of black books at Mendo, a playground for the stylish and, often, equally blackclad crowd. They’re here seeking the world’s best books on design, fashion, architecture, art, music and photography, including Marcel Wanders’ 35 kg(!) limited-edition art book Rijks, Masters of The Golden Age (yours for only €6,950) and Mendo’s own photobook Living in Style Amsterdam.

“It’s all about creating a little me time”

When even the bags are recyclable and the lighting LED-based, you know a boutique’s green ethos goes further than simply stocking a large range of high-end fashion brands that happen to be sustainable (think Armedangels, Inti Knitwear and Miss Green). But when it’s also a people-friendly place with accessible service and helpful advice, and there’s a play area for the little ones, it makes our small corner of the planet all the happier. HAARLEMMERPLEIN 23 TALLY-HO.NL

he Jordaan, Haarlemmerstraat/dijk and the famous Negen Straatjes (the “nine little streets” that connect the main canals) encompass perhaps the prettiest parts of the centre, with its 17th-century canals, doll-like leaning houses and narrow, meandering lanes. Should you be in the mood to hunt them all down, the area is home to an astonishing number of niche shops, including vintage boutiques, local design outlets and specialist food stores (don’t miss the organic farmer’s market on Noordermarkt, if you happen to be visiting on a Saturday). There are also fun fashion boutiques, art galleries, designer denim and much, much more.

BERENSTRAAT 11 MENDO.NL

Laura Dols

It’s easy to achieve the holy trifecta of vintage party dress shopping at this legendary 50s specialist, with many unique, classic and affordable finds, and beaded evening bags, prom dresses and antique wedding dresses, too. WOLVENSTRAAT 7 LAURADOLS.NL

IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Open up a can of whoop-ass with Good Beans’ single origin coffee, a light roast that packs a serious punch.

Frame that face with Delilah’s brilliant Brow Line pencil/brush combo

WHAT THE LOCALS SAY We talked to Frauke Hamer, of Delilah, the award-winning British beauty house that now has a boutique in Amsterdam: What makes Delilah cosmetics so special? “Our cosmetics are easy to love, simple to use, wearable and uncomplicated. We have one of the world’s first capsule colour collections − we don’t switch every season − so you can always find your favourites. Delilah cosmetics are also responsibly produced, environmentally-friendly, cruelty-free and paraben-free, and affordably priced.”

Rains

Looking for a better way to brave our Northern European spring showers? Then you’ll want to check out the Copenhagen-based rainwear brand that streamlined the oldschool rubber raincoat by merging traditional methods, innovative fabrics and understated Danish design for foul-weather fashion that’s made to last beyond the season. There’s a full range of waterproof outerwear, bags and accessories at the Haarlemmerstraat store.

What services do you offer? “Free make-up advice and professional make-up sessions that accentuate a woman’s natural beauty. We deliberately chose a quiet canal-side location and styled our salon to look like a hotel lounge. It’s all about creating a little me time, which is why we never ‘hard-sell’ and also have Buscaglione coffee, Jacky Blot wines and Taylors of Harrogate tea.” LELIEGRACHT 50D DELILAHCOSMETICS.COM

HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 82-1 RAINS.COM

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Eat

22 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

If you think Dutch food is all about herring and stodge, be prepared to have your preconceptions blown by these passionate purveyors of pure local flavours and seasonal products.

Where to Go Dutch Restaurant Floreyn

Bolenius

Dutch flavours “restyled for today’s gourmet” in a poldergreen decor with subtle local references. Typical dish: five ways with cauliflower with lovage and hazelnut, and cumin cheese bitterballen. ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 31 RESTAURANTFLOREYN.NL

Restaurant Greetje

Michelin-starred Bolenius places locally-grown vegetables on a pedestal, but there’s also plenty for omnivores at this “flagship of the Dutch cuisine movement”. Signature dish: clay-baked beetroot with morels and crunchy sourdough croutons. GEORGE GERSHWINLAAN 30 BOLENIUS-RESTAURANT.NL

Lt. Cornelis

This cosy canal-house restaurant serves “elevated Dutch food” in a dining room with Delft blue tiles, chandeliers and fresh flowers. Typical dish: “forgotten veg” gratin, Frisian clove cheese and mushroom tartlets, beetroot foam and onion rings.

PEPERSTRAAT 23 RESTAURANTGREETJE.NL

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A picture-perfect combination of past and present, both in terms of its cuisine (a modern twist on the classics) and its decor (check out the original 17th-century details and the cinemagraphs of famous Dutch paintings). Typical dish: lamb with black salsify and liquorice gravy. VOETBOOGSTRAAT 15 RESTAURANTCORNELIS.AMSTERDAM

Close Encounters What’s more beautiful: the bronze Jaune de Chrome porcelain plate or the velvety lardo-studded venison with swirls of olive and green pepper jus, crispy olive pips, and green olive “puttanesca” on top? You decide.

s more and more fancy restaurants incorporate the popular “chef’s table” into their kitchens, it was only a matter of time before the fashionable “no table” concept reached the Netherlands. With their new restaurant designed around a gleaming stainless steel open kitchen, chefs Richard van Oostenbrugge and Thomas Groot (ex-Bord’Eau*) are aiming for less formality and more interaction with guests. The “greyed-out”

decor plays its part in focusing all the attention on the kitchen theatre with its state-of-the-art stainless steel workspaces, surrounded by a warm faceted oak kitchen counter, concrete pendant lights, and furniture and walls in tonal shades of grey. Expect fun, informal fine dining and modernist techniques such as spherification and trompe l’oeil effects that dazzle and entertain both the eye and palate. AMSTEL 212, RESTAURANT-212.COM

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Shop 24 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

La Dress Brand Boutique Amsterdam

When founder Simone van Trojen set out to create “the perfect dress” 10 years ago, little could she have known the nationwide success that would await her functional approach to fashion. In fact, the online brand went bricks-and-mortar in 2016, and in December last year a bigger, better brand boutique opened its doors in moneyed Zuid. La Dress’ spring collection features stylishly wearable staples like blush-coloured pantsuits, red wear-anywhere crepe dresses, navy satin pussy-bow blouses and tuxedo-inspired evening gowns. CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 39 LADRESS.COM

WHAT THE LOCALS SAY We talked to Sasja van Horssen, owner of Cigaragua, a shop that stocks over 900 varieties of handmade Nicaraguan cigars:

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter

Chic Central Zuid is the place if you’ve got cash to splash and plastic to flex.

msterdam’s answer to London’s South Kensington or New York’s Museum Mile is home to some of the world’s best art museums, but also to many of the city’s poshest shops and most well-heeled inhabitants. If you’re looking to burn a hole in your platinum credit card, join the WAGS in the area’s most famous shopping street, P.C.

Hooftstraat. But don’t overlook adjacent Van Baerlestraat for sophisticated local brands and respected specialists. Lovers of premium fashion boutiques must make a beeline for nearby Cornelis Schuytstraat, while artisan food fans should check out the ZuiderMRKT farmer’s market, held on Saturdays behind The Royal Concertgebouw. IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

What makes Nicaraguan cigars so special? “Nicaragua produces the best cigars in the world, period. The country has nutritious volcanic soil, the best tobacco farmers and a highly skilled workforce.” What will cigar aficionados like about your shop? “The chance to explore the world’s first Nicaraguan cigar store. We have an 80 m2 humidor and a large 90 m2 lounge where they can settle in and enjoy the full, rich flavour of Nicaraguan cigars.” VAN BAERLESTRAAT 56H CIGARAGUA.NL

Kids’ concept store Minimarkt stocks fab felt wall-mounted Fiona Walker animal heads and many other covetable children’s clothing, accessories and gift brands.

Put some spring in your step (and a dent in your wallet) with Dolce & Gabbana’s embellished satin sandals. Available at designer multi-brand store Shoebaloo.

Buise

From Ganni’s playful silk leopard-print smock dresses to Isabel Marant Etoile’s airy printed ruffle blouses and Ulla Johnson’s batik patchwork-printed cotton tops (pictured), this is the place where effortless chic costs a pretty penny. CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 12 BUISE.NL

Das Gaaf

Owner Ellen Plessius’ colourful art meets mid-century design at this charming vintage furniture store with a name that translates as “that’s nice”. Expect round retro teak coffee tables, ’50s chrome coat racks, West German ceramic vases sitting on ’60s cabinets, and ’70s retro milk glass lamps – and very reasonable prices, too!

NOW AT TASCHEN STORE:

David Bowie, The Man Who Fell to Earth

KONINGINNEWEG 220 DASGAAF.COM

Taschen Store

Sandwiched between Mulberry and Lacoste on Amsterdam’s poshest street is the official Amsterdam store of the famous German publishing house – equally known for producing some of the world’s most expensive art books and promoting underexposed artists through its more affordable “Icons” series. Here, you’ll find beautiful books covering genres such as photography, design, film, fashion, lifestyle and architecture. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 44 TASCHEN.COM

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Eat, Drink

Oenophiles mustn’t miss the Amsterdam Wine Festival, 16-18 March at Westergasfabriek.

26 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

Popping Up: Wine Bars W

ith new wine bars popping up like so many champagne corks, Amsterdam’s oenophiles now have twice the options they had just one year ago. Popular are places that offer well-priced premium wines (see below); specialist wine bars like cava bar Xampanyeria Centra, sherry

and manzanilla bar El Hermano de Kique, champagnerias Five Brothers Fat and Hennequin & To, and French-focused Le Baravin; vin naturel bars like Café Binnenvisser and Bar Centraal; and coffee/wine hybrids such as Bar Bateau and Rayleigh & Ramsay. Here are a few of our recent favourites:

Winehouse SOMM

Shiraz

Owned by Sascha Holzkämper (ex-Maître sommelier at Beluga** in Maastricht), this De Baarsjes-based bar is a wine snob’s paradise, but you’ll also find affordable choices by the glass. And, with bites like panseared scallops, or cauliflower cream and samphire, there’s something for foodies, too.

With a 140-strong selection, including 23 100% Shiraz wines, this “wine garden” in the Leidseplein area has plenty to offer, including sweet and savoury bites from around the wine world (the tarte tatin is terrific), a canal-facing terrace and a wine boutique. LIJNBAANSGRACHT 267 SHIRAZAMSTERDAM.NL

BAFFINSTRAAT 1 WINEHOUSESOMM.NL

4850

Alex+Pinard

This Swedish-owned establishment in East serves smørrebrød and specialty coffee by day. By night, it serves premium (mostly natural) wines − many by the glass, including six champagnes − from a floorto-ceiling wine chamber, and over 20 Belgian lambic beers.

On the doorstep of the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s most diverse day market, there’s a casual wine bar that offers a wide range of (organic) wines sourced from small wineries at an accessible price, plus good charcuterie platters. DAPPERSTRAAT 10 ALEXPINARD.NL

CAMPERSTRAAT 48-50 4850.NL

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Made with blood orange, grapefruit and sumac, this Pale Ale by botanical beer brewer Lowlander is supremely wellsuited to spring drinking.

Crafty Offerings Craft breweries are beating out the big guys.

ow that craft brewers are beating out the big beer brands (move over, Heineken!) we’re not only seeing more interesting beer lists all over Amsterdam but more and more local players, too. In fact, the number of breweries in Amsterdam has increased almost tenfold in the past decade. Award-winning organic brewer Brouwerij ’t IJ (now one of Amsterdam’s biggest) in the famous windmill-slash-tasting house was way ahead of the craft beer trend when it was established in 1985. But it was only when hipster

culture hit Amsterdam that things really got going. First there was micro-brewery Brouwerij de Prael, located in the Red Light District, where Amsterdam’s earliest brewery raised its foamy head, followed by brands created by café owners and passionate beer enthusiasts, like Oedipus (of the quirky labels), Brouwerij Troost (known for its tasting rooms in historic locales), Butcher’s Tears (the hip, alternative choice) and De 7 Deugden (with its idiosyncratic flavours), to name a few.

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Shop

Filling Pieces, the local cult label known for its sleek “low top” sneakers with elongated tongue and name-check label, is available at de Bijenkorf.

28 | text: Karin Engelbrecht

Shopping District: Centre • Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat

High Street Heaven

ith its plethora of flagship stores, major fashion chains and discounters, Kalverstraat has everything on board for an ideal shopping day out. That is, if you can bear to brave the throngs. Or, if you prefer doing all your shopping under one roof (ideal if it’s raining) head to the nearby Dam Square area to hit premium department stores de Bijenkorf or Hudson’s Bay. Alternatively, set out to explore one of Amsterdam’s best-kept secrets, the Utrechtsestraat, where quality butchers and bakers sit alongside quirky concept stores, independent boutiques, designer furniture shops and historic cafés.

Rituals Cosmetics

This Dutch lifestyle brand was created in 2000 with the intention of transforming life’s little routines into relaxing rituals guided by age-old traditions from the East. Create your own hammam at home with purifying black soap and body mud with bath towels, mint tea and candles to match. The incredibly complete range also includes Dao-inspired face serum (and dish soap), Ayurveda body oils, home fragrance sticks, and even make-up. The gift boxes are particularly good here. KALVERSTRAAT 73 RITUALS.NL

Waterstones

Home to a famous Friday market for used and antiquarian books, the leafy Spui square also boasts a bevy of international bookstores, including British chain Waterstones with its unbeatable children’s book section, where you’ll find classics such as The Wind in the Willows and recent hits including Good Night Stories for Rebel Girls. KALVERSTRAAT 152 WATERSTONES.COM

L’Étoile de Saint Honoré

This high-end vintage Mecca stocks fashion treasures like rare Chanel 2.55s, Damier Ebene Canvas Louis Vuitton hobos (pictured), and leather Hermès Kelly bags, safely ensconced in glass cases, with prices in full view, so there’s none of that awkward asking. Buyer’s remorse? L’Étoile de Saint Honoré will sell your most expensive mistakes on consignment. ETOILE-LUXURYVINTAGE.COM HEILIGEWEG 9

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United Nude

Since launching in 2003 with the now-famous Möbius shoe, Rem D. Koolhaas’ architectural footwear label has become a fashion trendsetter. Current collabs include Issey Miyake, Linda Farrow and Iris van Herpen.

Stach’s marshmallow-fudge milk chocolate bar with its whimsical tulip wrapper is a delicious souvenir. Get yours at Hudson’s Bay.

MOLSTEEG 10 UNITEDNUDE.COM

WHAT THE LOCALS SAY

We talked to Spiros Mariatos, chef-owner of the tempting specialist cheesecake shop, Cheesy Cakes: What makes your cheesecakes special? “I use only seasonal fruits, my cakes are not overly sweet, and I never use synthetic ingredients. But I also have my own signature style − sometimes experimental, but always with the best combination of aesthetics and flavour. There’s something for everyone between 3 and 100.” Why did you choose this location? The dazzling diversity of specialty shops and building styles is the opposite of the uniform clusters you see on the chain-store streets. It’s not touristy, with the perfect balance between cosmopolitan and intimate, urban and local, and exclusive and accessible. I can find everything I need here… fabulous!

Orange, rose water and pistachio cheesecake at Cheesy Cakes.

UTRECHTSEDWARSSTRAAT 73 CHEESYCAKES.NL

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architecture Art & Social ideals

Come and admire

Open from tuesday to sunday; 11 - 17 hours

A guided tour

at 3 pm in English

www.hetschip.nl

What’s On

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

32 34 35 38 40 41 42 44 45 46

exhibitions collections festivals on stage pop LGBTI on screen clubbing classical music family fun

King’s Day

The population of Amsterdam doubles on the King’s birthday, as a million orange-clad revelers flood the city’s streets, squares and canals for one of the world’s biggest carnivals. With open-air markets, outdoor festivals, boat parties and family events, there’s a Koningsdag (“King’s Day Celebration”) for everyone.

27 APRIL, CITYWIDE

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Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

32 | text: Megan Waters and Rhys Elliott

8 MARCH-3 JUNE, RIJKSMUSEUM

Van Gogh & Japan

ne of the world’s most influential postImpressionist painters drew plenty of inspiration from Japanese art by studying and reading about it, collecting and copying prints, and discussing their aesthetic qualities with other artists. The influence of Japanese woodblock prints is especially evident in Van Gogh’s later works through his strong black outlines, an element typical

100 HIGHLIGHTS Delight in favourites from the Museum of Bags & Purses’ permanent collection, including the oldest bag from the early 16th century as well as the first bag in the collection. Visitors can also learn about the special materials and techniques used.

BODY ART Body art and modification have a long history and are seen in numerous cultures. This exhibition explores the meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beautyideals, and how body modifications influence social status and personal identity.

UNTIL 22 APRIL, MUSEUM OF BAGS & PURSES

UNTIL 26 AUGUST, TROPENMUSEUM

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of these prints. The Dutch master’s creativity is explored in great detail in this two-part exhibition that surveys Van Gogh’s Japonism and Japanese people’s love for the artist. Pore over 40 works by Van Gogh himself, plus up to 50 pieces said to have inspired him, as well as an extensive selection of materials detailing Japanese artists and art lovers’ pursuit of their hero. 23 MARCH-24 JUNE, VAN GOGH MUSEUM

For centuries, powerful princes, eccentric aristocrats and wealthy citizens had themselves painted by the world’s best artists. This exhibition features Rembrandt’s wedding portraits of Marten Soolmans and Oopjen Coppit, as well as 35 life-sized, full-length portraits by some of the great masters in art history. Some 80 prints and drawings depict the more hush-hush events that often took place behind closed doors.

High Society

DANIËLLE VAN ARK The Dutch multimedia artist’s solo exhibition raises questions about valuation and authenticity, especially in photography: a medium that is inherently reproducible. She also reflects on the museum context in which her work is shown – or remains hidden from view. 20 APRIL-10 JUNE, FOAM

This hard-hitting exhibition marks the 75th anniversary of the Dutch resistance’s attack on the Register of Births, Deaths and Marriages in Amsterdam during World War II. The attack was a momentous victory for the resistance, effectively destroying about 10,000 Jewish identification cards, which the Nazis used to persecute Jews living in the Netherlands. The exhibition delves into the profiles, motivations and plans of the attackers – as well as the harrowing consequences they faced. There’s even a 3D audio-visual tour that gives visitors a unique, hands-on experience of the historical event.

Bernd, Hilla and the Others

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Devoted to photographers who studied at the influential Düsseldorf Art Academy under Bernd and Hilla Becher, this exhibition presents mostly unknown work by photographers such as Höfer, Ruff and Struth. 9 MARCH-3 JUNE, HUIS MARSEILLE

Danger! Explosive!

28 MARCH-11 NOVEMBER, DUTCH RESISTANCE MUSEUM

World Press Photo Exhibition

he flagship World Press Photo Exhibition, displaying prize winners’ work from the annual World Press Photo and Digital Storytelling contests, will premiere at De Nieuwe Kerk, before starting its year-long world tour where it will visit 45 countries and 100 cities. Photographers are rewarded for the best single exposure images that have contributed to the past year of visual journalism.

14 APRIL-22 JULY, DE NIEUWE KERK

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STEDELIJK BASE A permanent installation of the Stedelijk Museum’s iconic collection in art and design from 1880 until now. It occupies the museum’s entire new wing and features a selection of around 700 pieces covering historic movements, social themes and influential artists. OPEN DAILY, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

OEDIPUS

12 APR, 8, 10, 17 MAY SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

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MICROPIA You can’t see them, but there’s over a hundred thousand billion of them all around us. This oneof-a-kind museum displays the enormous invisible world of microorganisms. After visiting, you’ll never see anything in the same way again. OPEN DAILY, MICROPIA

DIANA LEEFLANG, YOUTUBER

Disfordazzle

The exhibition I am most looking forward to seeing in the next few months is STEDELIJK BASE at the Stedelijk Museum. The museum is constantly challenging art practices and reinventing how we view works, so this new permanent installation of its iconic collection promises big things.

“constantly challenging art and how we view it”

Collections

LE VIOLONISTE, MARC CHAGALL Cubist influences can be seen in this captivating depiction of one of Chagall’s favourite subjects – the fiddler. The painting was completed after moving to Paris from St. Petersburg, the homes in the painting representing boyhood memories of Russia. STEDELIJK MUSEUM

34 | text: Jayne Robinson

ETCHINGS, REMBRANDT VAN RIJN Just as famous as Rembrandt’s paintings are his etchings, and more than 200 images of landscapes, faces and daily life are on permanent display at the artist’s former home; now a museum dedicated to his life. REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

The Milkmaid

Johannes Vermeer makes the everyday work of a milkmaid the subject of one of his most famous and impressive paintings. Through his brushstrokes, light plays over the surface of the objects he depicts. Vermeer’s “The Milkmaid” is just one of the paintings in the Rijksmuseum’s permanent collection – this spring, don’t miss the High Society exhibition there too (see page 32).

BANQUET OF THE OFFICERS OF THE ST. GEORGE CIVIC GUARD, FRANS HALS The first of Hals’ large group portraits of civil guards is an example of his ability to bring a moment in time to life on canvas. FRANS HALS MUSEUM

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Festivals

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

text: Rhys Elliott

| 35

INSIDER TIP

Esther Weijkamp, runs Instagram account @amsterdamcityguide I’m probably most looking forward to the Rolling Kitchens festival, which sees loads of different food trucks popping up at the Westergasfabriek. There’s always so much delicious food to try, and to make it even better entry to the event is free!

Rolling Kitchens

menu for all appetites, including everything from fresh Italian pizza to sophisticated seafood and Dutch delicacies.

ozens of mobile kitchens and food trucks descend upon the Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam West, creating an enormous open-air restaurant. There’s something on the

4 MAY, DAM SQUARE

REMEMBRANCE DAY Amsterdam joins the rest of the Netherlands in commemorating the civilians and members of the armed forces who died in war and peacekeeping missions since the outbreak of World War II. To mark the Remembrance of the Dead, the country observes two minutes of silence at 20:00.

9-13 MAY, WESTERGASFABRIEK

FOOTBALL: ENGLAND VS. THE NETHERLANDS As part of their World Cup preparations, England will be playing their first friendly match against the Netherlands since 2016. In their last face-off, the Dutch came out on top (2-1), so the Three Lions have something to prove. 23 MARCH, AMSTERDAM ARENA

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MAY WE BE FORGIVEN

5, 12, 19 APR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

FUNSPORTS XPERIENCE This high-octane event features the very best of extreme sports – skateboarding, BMX, windsurfing and more – all under one roof. Attendees can try out the activities, watch world-class demos and even get some insider tips from the pros themselves. 7-11 MARCH, RAI AMSTERDAM

Festivals 36 | text: Alex Hibbert and Steven McCarron

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

5th May: Liberation Day

n the Netherlands, 5 May is a national day of celebration known as Liberation Day. It oﬃcially marks the end of the nation’s occupation by Nazi Germany at the end of WWII, but has grown to symbolise the broad spectrum of freedom (and a reminder that freedom should never

be taken for granted). Having evolved into a day of social and communal experiences, take your pick from dance parties (check out Vrijland Festival at Blijburg and Het Amsterdams Verbond in Sportpark de Eendracht), free music festivals (head to Het Vrije Westen in Westerpark for an easy

mix of sounds), fun events for kids, shared dining experiences (known as Freedom Feasts or Vrijheidsmaaltijden), theatre performances, sports, special presentations in museums, debates and much more. 5 MAY, IAMSTERDAM.COM/4AND5MAY

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9-11 MARCH, WESTERGASFABRIEK

OPEN TOWER DAY Look out across Amsterdam during Open Tower Day, when towers across the city open up to the public. Choose from historic church towers, luxury hotels and modern office buildings, all affording you unique views across the city skyline. 24 MARCH, IAMSTERDAM. COM/OPENTOWERDAY

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HAVEN VAN 'T GOOI © DENNIS BOUMAN

AMSTERDAM COFFEE FESTIVAL This festival celebrates the coffee bean with over 100 artisan roasters, equipment makers and gourmet food stalls. Some of Europe’s best baristas will host workshops and tastings, a street food market will pop up, plus there’s live music, entertainment and art.

www.vvvhuizen.nl

Garden of Amsterdam

Cross-linx Festival

This annual event straddles musical boundaries with original combinations of pop and classical music.

2 MARCH, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

Opera Forward Festival

With the central theme of “Fate and Understanding”, the third edition of this festival explores the future of opera and the arts, presenting outstanding new performances by a new generation of artists across a wide range of events. 13-26 MARCH, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA

King’s Day parties

King's Day is a public holiday but certainly not a day of rest. A carnival atmosphere descends on Amsterdam as DJs entertain crowds, brightly decorated boats sail along its canals, and music spills out across the streets and parks. Look out for

Tulip Festival

ach year Amsterdam hosts a festival to celebrate the Netherlands’ national flower and one of its most famous exports – the tulip. Throughout April, more than 500,000 colourful and occasionally rare tulips can be seen in the gardens of museums, private homes and other city institutions, including EYE Filmmuseum, the Rijksmuseum and public spaces throughout the city. A festival guide is available from many of the participating locations from 1 April, so explore the city and enjoy the blooms. APRIL, TULPFESTIVAL.COM

Moving Futures

27 APRIL, IAMSTERDAM.COM/KINGSDAY

28-31 MARCH, MOVINGFUTURES.NL

ST. PATRICK’S DAY FESTIVAL If you’re thinking dyedgreen canals and floods of Guinness, think again: this cultural celebration is a little more sophisticated, featuring everything from Irish music, spoken word performances, food, film and literature. And Guinness, just not in floods.

MEIBOCK FESTIVAL The spring sister of autumn’s Bokbier Festival, this deliciously beery festival celebrates meibock (spring beers) from the Netherlands and further afield. Featuring dozens of brewers in the beautiful Posthoornkerk, there’s no better time to taste some of your new favourite tipples.

16 & 17 APRIL, SPLENDOR

22 APRIL, POSTHOORNKERK

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a handful of major events featuring bigname DJs and live acts taking place around the city – but keep in mind you need to grab tickets for these before the big day itself!

Showcasing works of emerging choreographers, Moving Futures touches on societal issues and looks for common ground between dance, human behaviour, philosophy and science. Look out for Dansmakers Amsterdam, Dansateliers, DansBrabant, De Nieuwe Oost and Random Collision. A national touring festival, it stops off in intimate Amsterdam theatres such as Theater Bellevue and Dansmakers Podium this spring.

UNFAIR AMSTERDAM Unfair Amsterdam is an energising art and design fair focusing on new work by young, upcoming and established talents. Connect with the artists at the fair, join for lectures, films and performances, and take home some fresh contemporary art. 29 MARCH-2 APRIL, WESTERGASFABRIEK

On Stage 38 | text: Megan Waters

Dutch Doubles

ollowing the success of their 2014 performances, the Dutch National Ballet is presenting a second edition, which once again includes world premieres. This time, choreographers living in the Netherlands enter into dialogue with four renowned musicians/composers to create new dance works. © MARGOT DE HEIDE

24 MARCH-15 APRIL, DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET

Jesus Christ Superstar

ndrew Lloyd Webber’s international rock opera hit tells the story of the last week in the life of Jesus, seen through the eyes of his best friend and traitor Judas. In 2014, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the release of the film, Italian director and producer Massimo Romeo Piparo created a unique version of the global phenomenon with actors from the original movie, including Yvonne Elliman as Mary Magdalene and Barry Dennen as Pontius Pilate. It was such a success at its original venue of Rome’s Teatro Sistina that it is now on tour. Due to popular demand, this updated stage version returns to the Netherlands with Ted Neeley, who has played Jesus over 5,000 times, in the lead role. 28 MARCH-1 APRIL, AFAS LIVE

OEDIPUS Robert Icke’s contemporary adaption of Sophocles’ tragedy tells a tale of crime and punishment. Toneelgroep Amsterdam’s performance reminds audiences that it’s almost impossible to control our lives and fortune. (English surtitles only on 12 Apr, 8, 10 & 17 May). 5 APRIL-18 MAY, STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM

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7-24 MAY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA

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LA CLEMENZA DI TITO In his production of Mozart’s opera, director Peter Sellars shows a society that rises and falls, which he links to recent events in Paris and Brussels. Performed in Italian with Dutch and English surtitles.

22 13

03 05

2018

Sunset Boulevard

ndrew Lloyd Webber’s Tony Award-winning story of romance and obsession stars acclaimed actress and singer Ria Jones as Norma Desmond and Danny Mac from British TV dance competition Strictly Come Dancing as Joe Gillis. Based on Billy Wilder’s legendary film, it tells the story of a faded silent-screen goddess who lives in a fantasy world, and an impoverished screenwriter who stumbles into her reclusive life and becomes entrapped in a claustrophobic world.

28 MARCH-8 APRIL, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

1 & 2 APRIL, STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM

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SUM THOUGHTS The National Dance Theatre 2 puts on a rich variety from lyrical to experimental work, comprising “Short Cut” by Hans van Manen, “mutual comfort” by Edward Clug and world premieres by Marina Mascarell and Sol León & Paul Lightfoot.

ACHTERLAND A seminal choreography in Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s highly individual body of work, this t heatrical dance performance sees eight dances set to music by composers Györgi Ligeti and Eugène Ysaÿe. 1 & 2 MAY, STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM

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smidtjecanalcruises.com

oﬃcial price

€15,50

€13,50 across Teylers Museum

Pop

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

40 | text: Rhys Elliott and Alex Hibbert

Jason Derulo

Nick Mulvey

In his relatively short career, R&B and hip-hop superstar Jason Derulo has sold an impressive 50 million records. As a teen, he wrote tunes for Lil Wayne, but now he’s the ab-flashing top attraction. With 11 years of experience, 11 platinum singles and legions of adoring fans, expect a super-slick arena experience. © DREW DIZZY GRAHAM

13 MARCH, AFAS LIVE

26 & 27 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

27 MAY, PARADISO

Katy Perry

Perry’s currently out on tour to promote 2017’s electropop-infused Witness. Showing absolutely no dip in fandom, its title track became the most streamed Spotify track by a female artist in only 24 hours. Her live shows feature inventive productions, captivating choreography, fascinating fashion and (familyfriendly) shock factor.

Nick Mulvey picked up Latin-influenced guitar techniques in Cuba, studied ethnomusicology in London, and was a founding member of post-jazz collective Portico Quartet. Mulvey’s latest album Wake Up Now continues his experimentation with Latino, folk and sprawling soundscapes. Pretty esoteric, but he somehow makes it work.

Shame

Sam Smith

After breaking through in 2014, Sam Smith’s latest album The Thrill of it All topped charts around the world last year. Smith channelled his battles with alcohol and heartbreak, while also musing on religion and sexuality. Live, that weathered voice fills arenas with ease.

Part of a scene that seems ready to inject something that’s been missing in British music for some time: guitar-driven bands who use brains rather than banter to write songs. After forming in the Queen’s Head pub in Brixton, their album Songs of Praise has been feted as one of the most thrilling indie debuts for some time. Live, Shame delivers anthemic choruses, sneering delivery and witty lyricism. 26 APRIL, MELKWEG

2 & 5 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

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FATOUMATA DIAWARA In 2011, this Malian muso turned heads on the world music scene with her debut album Fatou and its hypnotic blend of Western pop, jazz and traditional Wassoulou. Look out for some new songs also premiering on this tour. 25 MARCH, TOLHUISTUIN

LOWER THAN ATLANTIS This British band flawlessly walk the line between indie and straight-up rock. Their catchy, riff-focused sound takes the best elements from both worlds: memorable English-accented vocals, powerful drums, sometimes dreamy, sometimes heavy guitars, and a progressive approach to songwriting. 24 MARCH, MELKWEG

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OF MICE & MEN No, not the quintessential literature-class novel. Combining the catchy choruses of pop and the technicality of metal, this noisy Californian crew have remained one of the brightest lights in the alt-rock and metalcore scenes in recent years.

THE OTHER VOICE

22 FEB, 1 MAR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

5 APRIL, MELKWEG

LGBTI text: Alex Hibbert and Alison McGarry

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Rapido King’s Edition

One of Amsterdam’s most famous gay dance parties, RAPIDO hosts one of its biggest events of the year to keep the King’s Day celebrations going well into the weekend. People come from all over Europe to see some of the hottest DJs playing house and techno, dancers strutting their stuff into the early hours, and to meet like-minded people looking for a good time. RAPIDO parties often sell out, so get your ticket early. 29 APRIL, PARADISO

Pathé Gay Night

(Z)onderbroek

Drop all your pretences and take off your trousers to dance at Club Church in Amsterdam. The only rule is it’s underwear or nothing, which means briefs and jocks, swim briefs, boxers, sports shorts or nude. No swim shorts. EVERY FRIDAY AND FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH, CLUB CHURCH

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GETTO GLAM VARIETY SHOW The legendary (and free) Getto Glam Variety Show features songs, interpretive dance, the most fabulous games of bingo you’ve ever experienced and interactive napkin tossing (don’t ask). All hosted by the amazing Erin Amazia Tasmania, Didi Licious and Victoria False. EVERY THURSDAY, GETTO

The first Wednesday of every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special gay movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages. Check the Pathé website for more information. 7 MARCH, 4 APRIL & 2 MAY, PATHÉ DE MUNT

RuPaul’s Drag Race: Werq The World Tour 2018

our favourite drag stars return with a fierce new show for 2018. As part of the RuPaul’s Drag Race World Tour, this “Werq The World” night sees celebrity judge Michelle Visage cast her eye over performances by Kim Chi, Latrice Royale, Violet Chachki, Valentina and a surprise guest. Expect incredible costumes and fabulous songs. VIP ticket holders can attend a private meet and mingle with the queens before the show.

25 MAY, AMSTERDAM THEATER

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KING’S NIGHT @ HOMOMONUMENT Amsterdam’s famous Homomonument isn’t just a memorial; it also hosts a fabulous free party for the typically Dutch celebration of King’s Night. Come dance to great music from some of Amsterdam’s finest DJs, including Mairo Nawaz, Rob Manga and Carlos Valdes. 26 APRIL, WESTERMARKT

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tulpomania haarlem

22 March to 13 May

Book your package at Haarlem.nl

MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after a hectic weekend by getting pampered on Mellow Monday. This weekly event is the perfect way to relax and recuperate, featuring free foot and shoulder massages, dry and steam saunas, juices and smoothies, snacks and scrubs. EVERY MONDAY, SAUNA NZ

On Screen

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

42 | text: Alex Hibbert and Rhys Elliott

Imagine Film Festival

From sci-fi to cult, anime to fantasy and horror to experimental, almost every genre gets projected at this feast for film buffs. But it’s not just about watching and enjoying full-length flicks; there are also insightful lectures, shorter films, Q&A sessions and even insider seminars with local and international directors. And with 50 full films and 40 short films on the line-up, there’s a movie for all tastes at Imagine. 11-21 APRIL, EYE FILMMUSEUM

EYE Art & Film Prize

he EYE Art & Film Prize – a collaboration between EYE Filmmuseum and the Paddy & Joan Leigh Fermor Arts Fund – is awarded to promising filmmakers whose work intersects art and film. Nominees, who will be vying

for a £25,000 prize, are selected by an international advisory board and will be judged by a jury of leading experts in the industry. Needless to say, this exhibition of the nominees’ work is bound to impress. 24 MARCH-27 MAY, EYE FILMMUSEUM

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NEW RENAISSANCE FILM FESTIVAL LAB111 is a quirky cult cinema located in one of the city’s old pathology labs, so it’s unsurprising that this eclectic film festival focuses on weird-and-wonderful films of the highest quality. And there’ll also be workshops from industry pros.

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Once you’ve seen it, you will love it.

Boattrips, watersports and events, beautiful surroundings for cycling and walking around the Westeinder Lakes, largest flower auction in the world and only 20 minutes from Amsterdam.

Visit Royal FloraHolland Aalsmeer World’s largest trade centre for flowers. A sight that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world.

royalfloraholland.com

1-4 MARCH MARCH, LAB111

VISITAALSMEER.NL

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Roze Filmdagen

Since its inception over 20 years ago, this festival aims to highlight all aspects of quality LGBTI cinema – including feature films, documentaries and shorts – for a broad audience.

8-18 MARCH, HET KETELHUIS

Cinedans

Cinedans is an international dance and film festival featuring dance films, documentaries and interactive installations. The focus of this year’s event is choreographies created for video, and film adaptations of existing dance performances, with the festival featuring an extensive programme of lectures, debates, performances and workshops.

CinemAsia Film Festival

Now in its 11th edition, the CinemAsia film festival returns to Amsterdam to showcase groundbreaking films from Asia. Past editions have included the most vibrant film cultures, featuring everything from Hollywood hopefuls to orphaned children, and Himalayan quests for God to lip-synching Filipino drag queens. 6-11 MARCH, CINEMASIA.NL

14-18 MARCH, EYE FILMMUSEUM

INSIDE MOVIES: THE TRUMAN SHOW Set in a world in which a city has been recreated for reality TV, The Truman Show sees Jim Carrey’s Truman Burbank discover that he’s actually the star of a warped reality show. Satire that demands repeat viewing.

AMSTERDAM SPANISH FILM FESTIVAL The clue’s in the name, but this film festival highlights and promotes cinema from Spain and Spanish-speaking Latin America. As well as mainstream Spanish cinema, you can expect some truly experimental and artistic films from the regions.

25 MARCH, HET KETELHUIS

25 MAY-3 JUNE, PATHÉ TUSCHINSKI

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Clubbing

Free Your Mind presents: Sasha & John Digweed

Free Your Mind hosts the iconic dance music kings for their first ever back-to-back appearance in the Netherlands.

44 | text: Alex Hibbert

16 MARCH, WAREHOUSE ELEMENTENSTRAAT

DGTL Festival

eaturing a line-up of top DJs playing across multiple stages at the NDSM Wharf, the indoor-outdoor DGTL festival is certainly worthy of its reputation as one of Amsterdam’s finest dance music events. Typically the first major festival of the season, this year’s roster features some of the world’s best producers – Jackmaster, Floating Points, Laurent Garnier – and dozens more that you might not have heard of yet, but probably soon will.

30 MARCH-1 APRIL, NDSM WHARF

Music On Festival

After launching just last year, Marco Carola’s Music On Festival returns bigger and better for 2018. Carola first launched his Music On night at Ibiza’s Amnesia back in 2012, and it soon grew into one of the island’s most popular parties. After hosting events across the globe – including in Miami, London and Dubai – this festival is another step in cementing Carola’s legacy as one of the world’s finest DJs and talent spotters, with a line-up of internationally acclaimed DJs spread over two stages – including Loco Dice, Claude VonStroke, The Martinez Brothers and Carola himself.

5 & 6 MAY, HAVENPARK

ENCORE Amsterdam’s premier hiphop and R&B night, playing everything from old-school tracks to the newest beats around. Expect to hear classic hits and your new favourite songs, find feel good vibes and see some incredible live performances. Anything is possible at Encore.

BICEP Bicep head to Amsterdam with a new live show to support their eponymously titled debut album. You’ll hear tracks paying tribute to the duo’s musical heroes – think Laurent Garnier and Aphex Twin – as well as techno, jungle and everything in between. 3 MAY, PARADISO

EVERY SATURDAY, MELKWEG

PARADI50 A three-day festival celebrating iconic Amsterdam venue Paradiso’s 50th birthday. On the Saturday, Paradiso takes you on a magical trip through the musical history of the iconic venue, starting with the hippie era and continuing through the punk years to the house revolution. 29-31 MARCH, PARADISO

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Classical Music text: Steven McCarron

21 MAY, ZIGGO DOME

MARCH & APRIL, IAMSTERDAM.COM/PASSIONCONCERTS

Berlioz’ Symphonie Fantastique

Let the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra transport you back to the early Romantic period in this performance of Berlioz’ sublime “Symphonic Fantastique”. Led by chief conductor Marc Albrecht, this once-controversial work ebbs and flows as an unrequited love leads to murder, execution and a hellish death dance.

The Bach Choir and Orchestra of the Netherlands revisit Händel’s powerful masterpiece, favouring the arrangement the composer himself chose for its world premiere in Dublin in 1742. Olga Zinovieva and Jana Mamonova are the sopranos for this room-shaking performance, with baroque expert Pieter Jan Leusink conducting. 2 APRIL, THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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23-26 MARCH, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

Händel’s Messiah

27 & 28 MAY, THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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LA MORTE D'ORFEO Stepping down as director of the Dutch National Opera, Pierre Audi revisits a key work from the start of his career. In Stefano Landi’s tragi-comic opera, the story of Orpheus continues where Monteverdi left off.

round Easter time in Amsterdam, one famous classical composition dominates the city’s concert halls and churches: Johann Sebastian Bach’s “St. Matthew Passion”. This sacred oratorio is delicate, rousing and For full listings dramatic in equal measure, playing out of what’s on in Amsterdam, like a Christ-inspired opera. One of the visit our website: most popular performances sees Pieter iamsterdam.com/ Jan Leusink conducting the Bach Choir whats-on and Orchestra of the Netherlands at The Royal Concertgebouw . If you prefer intimacy over grandeur, settle in (with a comfy cushion) for a church performance – there are many around the city.

You’ve bingewatched every season of this popular TV fantasy… You’ve maybe even sat on the Iron Throne when it toured the world… Now this live concert takes your Game of Thrones experience to the next level, hopefully easing the wait until the final season screens in 2019. Series composer Ramin Djawadi is the special guest, performing with an 80-piece orchestra alongside visuals from the TV show and special effects.

Bach’s Passion

Game of Thrones - Live Concert

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LIGETI FESTIVAL Celebrate the avant-garde music of Hungarian composer György Ligeti with an enlightening series of concerts. Delve into his broad oeuvre, from chamber music to choral, with performances by Asko|Schönberg, pianist Pierre-Laurent Aimard and the Dudok Quartet Amsterdam. 5-8 APRIL, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

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SYMPHONIC CINEMA This enchanting concert series pairs contemporary cinema with stunning orchestral performances. Here, Lucas van -Woerkum’s film is a modern-day interpretation of Ravel’s Daphnis et Chloé ballet. 30 APRIL, THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

Just outside Amsterdam

Family Fun 46 | text: Jayne Robinson and Megan Waters

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

NEMO Science Museum

RTIS allows adults and kids of all ages to experience nature right in Amsterdam’s centre. Admire the tropical fish, travel through time in the planetarium and see giraffes grazing among the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion, stroll through the historical park with its diverse flora, or join a tour guide and learn about new plants, baby animals and newly discovered species.

Scientists answer questions on a wide range of subjects, while NEMO’s employees work with visitors to test new exhibition concepts and perform research on numerous topics. The NEMO collection, with around 17,000 artefacts from the phonograph to the lamppost, shows how energy has shaped and influenced our world.

OPEN DAILY, PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40

OPEN DAILY, OOSTERDOK 2

ARTIS Royal Zoo

TAARTROVERS FILM FESTIVAL Taartrovers, formerly Fantastisch Kinderfilm Festival, is a travelling festival packed with films and creative games for toddlers, pre-schoolers and young children with an aim to encourage a love for film and a first understanding of film literacy.

HEMELTJELIEF FESTIVAL This family festival steals the show every Ascension Day with an enormous musical and theatrical line-up, as well as plenty of events and activities to keep the family entertained for the entire day. Free entry for festival-goers under 12. 10 MAY, NDSM WHARF

UNTIL 4 MARCH, EYE FILMMUSEUM

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Voted the most welcoming national museum in the Netherlands, NEMO introduces young and old to the fascinating world of science and technology. On five floors crammed full of exhibitions, experiments, demonstrations and workshops, visitors discover how special everyday things really are. Through hands-on exploration, learn about the basic principles of science and technology, as well as phenomena such as electricity, light, sound and gravity.

KING’S DAY FOR KIDS There’s plenty of children’s activities taking place across the city (especially in Vondelpark), including face-painting, games, sports events as well as the Bredeweg Festival – a bustling street fiesta featuring a street market, fair, theatre performances and concerts. 27 APRIL, IAMSTERDAM.COM/ KINGSDAY

Madame Tussauds: Marvel Avengers

Amsterdam Dungeon

500 years of Amsterdam’s darkest history is brought to life with 12 shows and 10 actors in one terrifying – and hilarious – experience. Walk through the vaults of the dungeon with theatrical actors, special effects, stages, and scenes to see, smell, listen and be afraid.

Step into an immersive universe and join forces with Marvel Comics’ biggest superheroes to be a hero for one day. See if you have what it takes to lift the hammer of Thor, or fight side by side with Captain America to defeat his enemies. Suitable for all ages, nothing is what it seems during this unique 3D experience. This is your chance to take a selfie with your favourite superhero!

OPEN DAILY, ROKIN 78

The Little Orphanage

Learn what life was like in a 17thcentury orphanage in the heart of a flourishing trade city. Housed at the former City Orphanage site, see dining rooms, dormitories, classrooms, kitchens, a crude toilet and even a cattle shed be brought back to life.

OPEN DAILY, DAM 20

Fun Forest Climbing Park

This high-rope adventure park is ideal for kids’ parties, company team-building or just a fun day out. Choose from two courses where children can climb independently, host a party on a regular route or combine your visit with a meeting, lunch or BBQ. Channel your inner monkey and move through the trees on ropes, ladders, bridges, zip lines and different climbing elements on nine courses ranging from 4 to 15 metres.

OPEN DAILY, AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

Vondelpark Open Air Theatre

Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday from June through September (with special editions in May), the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre presents a programme packed with festivals, dance, cabaret, children’s theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. Bring a picnic and enjoy!

UNTIL NOVEMBER, BOSBAANWEG 3

FROM 5 MAY, VONDELPARK

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OUT IN NATURE IN AMSTERDAMSE BOS The Amsterdamse Bos is the ideal spot to entertain and educate kids about the nature on Amsterdam’s doorstep. Look out for regular guided walks with wardens, the goat farm, boat tours, workshops, and simple fun and games.

DISCO SWIMMING Every Friday night, De Mirandabad swimming pool hosts its special disco evenings. Grab your swimming gear and enjoy dancing – and swimming – to music. Only children aged 14 and below are permitted. UNTIL 27 APRIL, DE MIRANDALAAN 9

OPEN DAILY, AMSTERDAMSE BOS

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Discover your Amsterdam iamsterdam.com/neighbourhoods

City Guide

50 Zuid 56 West 58 Oost 60 Noord 62 Centre

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

Stedelijk Museum

The Museumplein is the gateway to the Zuid (South) area of the city. And nothing speaks to its cultural credentials more than the bathtub-shaped exterior of the Stedelijk – the museum for aficionados of modern and contemporary art and design. MUSEUMPLEIN 10 STEDELIJK.NL

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Zuid

50 50| |text: textKarin and photos: Engelbrecht Marie-Charlotte PezÃ©

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“Emily bag” from The Kooples – just one of the high-end fashion boutiques on P.C. Hooftstraat.

Classy Meets Cultural The repository of the city’s classical culture and luxury shopping, Zuid also boasts its own Latin Quarter and a thriving business district. Golden child

Take an adventurous step off Leidseplein into the southern part of the city to enjoy the finer things in Amsterdam’s life. Start with the Rijksmuseum, which presides over the vast expanse of the Museumplein – the jewel box of the city’s most prized cultural institutions. To the west, bordered by a street of jewellers and diamond cutters, stands the Van Gogh Museum with its brand-new entrance building, and its monumental collection of works by the misunderstood ear-lopping artist. Next door, the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art flaunts its slick design, which brilliantly manages the feat of mixing its original 1895 architecture with a contemporary wing in the shape of a giant bathtub, without being a nightmarish eyesore.

Across the street, the 128-year old Royal Concertgebouw is still regarded as one of the greatest concert halls in the world, thanks to its remarkable acoustics. (Tip: it also offers the treat of free lunchtime concerts on Wednesdays.)

The charmed life

Right off Museumplein lies OudZuid (Old South), a posh and tranquil neighbourhood boasting such a privileged flair that the locals have nicknamed it de reservaat (the reservation). Some of Oud-Zuid’s leafy curving streets are bordered by stately mansions with sprawling gardens that are worth a gander, but the best reason to explore this exclusive area is definitely the shopping: from flashy P.C. Hooftstraat to classy Willemsparkweg, you’ll find treasure troves of high-end

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“There’s so much art in a few-block radius, Museumplein makes your head spin. It’s difficult to pick which museum to see if you only have a day or two, because they are all so amazing, but the Rijksmuseum is by far the must-see.” Alex Carugati, 26, carpenter, and David Strametto, 23, fitness trainer from Italy

Zuid 52 |

text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

boutiques and coveted vintage shops. Cafés with sprawling terraces also abound, where you can enjoy the spring’s rays and sometimes hear the hooves of the horses taking riders for a stroll through the Vondelpark, the vast green expanse that borders Zuid to the northwest.

Into the woods

Zuid has its fair share of natural havens. Smack in the middle of De Pijp – the edgy, trendy neighbourhood that caters to the younger crowds (and the hipsters, let’s tell it like it is) – Sarphatipark is a breath of fresh air when you get tired of drinking lattes and buying independent designer wares. To the east lies the Amstelpark, where food festivals often park their trucks during the sunnier months, such as Taste of Amsterdam (from 1 to 3 june), with the city’s most famous chefs showing off their chops on paper plates. But especially, down south you’ll find the Amsterdamse Bos, an

enchanting 1,000 hectares of wooded coves and tranquil ponds, birdsongs and wildflowers, and a stupendous amount of sport, leisure and cultural activities.

Business and pleasure

Edging on all this history and culture is the new kid on the block, Zuidas. Urban planners and architects are having a ball developing this cutting-edge district, which sports a constantly-growing modern skyline that houses all the big names in finance, law and tech. A quick sevenminute train hop from Schiphol, this thriving neighbourhood is also being thoughtfully designed, with many green and pedestrian areas, family residences that foster community, and the environmentallyfriendly consciousness that has been a driving force in Amsterdam of late. Zuidas, and Zuid in general, are the perfect reflection of how well Amsterdam blends its past and its future: a rich and harmonious marriage that still thumps with many thrills.

Museumplein

The richness of the Museumplein isn’t just its diamond factories and luxury shops. It is also the beating heart of Amsterdam’s most prized cultural institutions. The jewel in the crown is certainly the Rijksmuseum, an arresting journey through 800 years of national art and history; but newcomer MOCO is also worth a detour, showcasing contemporary pop artists such as Banksy or Roy Lichtenstein (until 31 May).

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“I work in Oud-Zuid and it’s certainly a posh neighbourhood, but lovely and quiet too. I enjoy the cafés and restaurants, especially those with big terraces, like George WPA. And I love getting a cup from CoffeeConcepts on Jacob Obrechtstraat.” Sanne van Hai, 36, works in marketing

Zuidas

Zuidas isn’t all business. Even the area around the World Trade Centre feels like a little community, with its bakeries and restaurants. The RAI Convention Centre also brings its fair share of entertainment, from the HISWA Amsterdam Boat Show (7-11 March) to a saucy Chippendales night (14 April). Follow up with dinner at The Roast Room next door.

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

De Pijp

Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter is a lively mix of cultures, cuisines and sights. The centrepiece is definitely the Albert Cuypmarkt, a bustling market where you’ll not only find fresh cheeses and herring, but also colourful fabrics, designer wares and artisanal pottery. The neighbourhood is cherished for its plethora of independent designer boutiques (Charlie + Mary and Felice Home of Brands) and its abundance of hip bars, cafés and exotic eateries – some of which have become instant classics.

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Zuid 54 |

text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Café Wildschut

It’s debatable which is the most famous Museum Quarter institution: the Rijksmuseum or Café Wildschut. The latter’s large terrace, which seems to have its own microclimate of non-stop sun, is the place to be for beer, hapjes (snacks) and peoplewatching. The interior offers just as great a view while you enjoy their stellar lunch or dinner menu. ROELOF HARTPLEIN 1-3 CAFEWILDSCHUT.NL

Firma Pekelhaaring

The city’s hipsters gravitate towards this rustic Italian-style hotspot. The wafts of freshly-made pasta coming from the open kitchen are worth putting a toe in the door alone, unless you’re up for some more adventurous culinary treats like a tarte tatin with shallots and Fourme d’Ambert cheese, or have an appetite that only their whole roasted suckling pig can sate. VAN WOUSTRAAT 157 PEKELHAARING.NL

Blond

Seventeen years ago, fair-haired pals Femque and Janneke started creating painted crockery together. Their fun and occasionally cheeky style went down a storm with the Dutch populace and was soon picked up by big department stores, and Blond is now an iconic Amsterdam brand. Their colourful, girlish designs embellish everything from teapots and mugs to makeup bags, wallets, and even pet accessories. GERARD DOUSTRAAT 69 BLOND-AMSTERDAM.NL

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Conservatorium Hotel

A former music conservatory, this luxurious hotel with a Neo-Gothic facade and a grandiose glass atrium boasts loft bedrooms and rainfall showers – but also a glamorous selection of shops such as Skins Cosmetics or cigar-aficionado paradise La Casa del Habano. It is also home to a Brasserie & Lounge that serves a Royal Afternoon Tea, and sushi palace Taiko.

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27 CONSERVATORIUMHOTEL.COM

Restaurant Blauw

Restaurant Blauw (meaning Blue), funnily enough, actually sports red walls – and a giant, vintage family photo that prominently spells out the origin of Blauw’s outstanding modern Indonesian cuisine. Few places in town serve such a luscious and extensive rijstaffel, a feast-like collection of spicy, sauce-laden dishes (of various meat, fish and vegetables) accompanied by rice.

“I’ve lived in Zuidas for 15 years and I love it; it’s a very convenient neighbourhood where you can shop for many hard-to-find Asian products in grocery stores such as Shilla or Dank.” Kyunghee Lee, 51, hairdresser

Gelderlandplein

Amsterdam’s biggest mall is smack in the middle of Zuidas-Buitenveldert, with a vast array of luxury shopping and dining options. Fashion boutiques abound, from ESPRIT to Sissy Boy, as well as shoes, jewellery, beauty products, home decor, and even groceries (including Asian specialties and the eco-conscious Marqt). GELDERLANDPLEIN GELDERLANDPLEIN.NL

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 158-160 RESTAURANTBLAUW.NL

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West text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

A traditionally residential West now thrives on its multicultural and independent flair.

Rebirth

riginally developed as a residential area for workingclass families, West is a prime example of how much Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside of the Canal Belt. Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories by peaceful Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed into an edgy urban sprawl. Today, the Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses overflowing with entertainment venues, popup shops, and hip cafés and eateries. In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze with the development of De Hallen Quarter, home to the gargantuan gourmet Foodhallen, indie cultural venues, and vintage or designer shops. As the area’s popularity redefines the limits of what feels like the city’s centre, the tentacles of this rebirth continue to spread outwards. BoLo and De Baarsjes harbour marvels of Amsterdamse School architecture, and even the forgotten NieuwWest (New West) – where the charm of Amsterdam’s centre fades into blocks of row-housing development – cultivates its multicultural heritage with a renewed social soul and worldly flair. These traditionally working-class, immigrant districts are becoming thriving nerve centres, thanks to a new generation of all-in-one hotspots such as De School or Podium Mozaiek.

“Things I Like Things I Love is a treasure trove of new and vintage items you never knew you needed”

“the perfect place to bring a difﬁcult date”

Happyhappyjoyjoy

Foodhallen

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 158 HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY.ASIA

BELLAMYPLEIN 51 FOODHALLEN.NL

Creative celebrity chef Julius Jasper brings his own twists to spicy streetfood from Asia with popular local dishes from Malaysia, Vietnam or China, such as har kau and siu mai dumplings, and of course sizzling barbecues and woks. The visually-laden decor is, indeed, happy-happy: it’s difficult to have a bleak meal at this temple of everything Asian-fusion.

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It took three years to rehabilitate the old tram depot that houses this gourmet food court, but it was well worth the wait. Wood-oven pizza? Fresh lobster? Gourmet burgers? Poké bowls? French pastries? They have it all: the perfect place to bring a difficult date, even if the communal tables don’t make for great intimacy.

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Westergasfabriek

“We come to Sloterpark to train because there’s so much space. It’s a really great park with lots of different areas, and that’s perfect for parkour.” Angelo Chiorescu, 11, and his friends

Brouwerij Troost

De School

WESTERGASFABRIEK, PAZZANISTRAAT 25-27 BROUWERIJTROOSTWESTERGAS.NL

DR. JAN VAN BREEMENSTRAAT 1 DESCHOOLAMSTERDAM.NL

These local brewers offer a large selection of homemade beers: Lager, Weizen, Amber Ale, Honey Blonde, Triple, Buck, Smoked Porter, and a bunch of IPAs. They even make their own gin. The winning combo of fresh pints, delicious burgers and a friendly atmosphere has propelled Troost to such stardom that they’ve recently opened a third location.

Holding one of the city’s rare 24-hour licences, De School caters to all your entertainment needs. This fast-rising star is a club/concert space with its trendy but unaffected programming, but they also have a spacious “laptops welcome” café, a restaurant with a fabulous world-inspired kitchen, and an authentic 1960s gym hall to work off those calories.

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Fifteen years ago, the historical buildings of the city’s disaffected gas works were given a second lease on life. Home to art-house cinema Het Ketelhuis, club-house Westerunie and gaming-fiend paradise TonTon Club, this sprawling temple of culture also sports a slew of hip cafés and restaurants such as Espressofabriek, Wester Wijnfabriek and Mossel & Gin, as well as playing host to foodie and artisan markets.

Sloterpark

With 90 hectares of nature and a giant lake (that boasts a really nice beach), this park is much more than the usual winding paths. From its Olympic-sized and outdoor swimming pools to the disc (Frisbee) golf course, and sailing and watersports clubs, Sloterpark is a green haven smack in the middle of urban Amsterdam.

Oost

58 | text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

The embodiment of Amsterdam’s multicultural fame, Oost bangs to the beat of its own colourful drum.

Melting Pot

ost (East) is the epitome of Amsterdam’s incredible diversity; and not only in population, but also in its huge variety of architecture – from the 19th-century residential areas of Oud-Oost (Old East) to the awe-inspiring feats of modernity on the Eastern Docklands, not to mention the distinctive Amsterdamse School treasures hidden behind the newly renovated Oosterpark. Its cultural offerings are also lively and diverse: Oost is home to the Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, as well as the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, the temple

Harbour Club

The Harbour Club’s splendid views over the piers can be enjoyed from the terrace, but the monumental interior of this warehouse-sized restaurant sports a 16-metre long mural by Neo-pop artist Selwyn Senatori, which is worth a detour. The menu is perfect for pescatarians.

Dappermarkt

Boiboi

DAPPERSTRAAT DAPPERMARKT.NL

DAPPERSTRAAT 12 BOIBOI.NL

Illustrating the area’s multicultural flair, this daily open-air market is one of the prime spots to hear snippets of the many languages spoken on the streets of Amsterdam. It’s also one of the best, liveliest places to shop for exotic ingredients at bargain prices. More than 200 stalls offer everything from tulips to textiles.

This unassuming restaurant at a quiet corner of Dapperstraat is revered by many as one of the best Thai places in Amsterdam. The fast and friendly service is only topped by the food’s delectable flavours and textures: try the monkey balls, or the phenomenal renditions of favourite classics, such as pad thai with a homemade tamarind sauce, and an excellent green curry that’ll take the roof off your mouth.

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CRUQUIUSWEG 67 THEHARBOURCLUB.COM/AMSTERDAM

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

of modern classical and jazz music. It thrives on its multi-disciplinary venues, such as sustainability nerve centre Pakhuis de Zwijger, mecca of storytelling Mezrab, and the Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy, which marries quirky guest rooms with independent artist exhibits or cultural festivals. At its heart also beats the Amsterdam Science Park, the largest European hub for science, research and entrepreneurship – bringing brains to the brawny beauty of the area. Last but not least, it’s not short on cafés, bars and restaurants; the multitude of excellent dining options range from surprising holes in the wall and innocuous eateries blessed with exotic flair, to some of Amsterdam’s most iconic tables: Merkelbach, Rijsel and Wilde Zwijnen (to name just a few) all embody how far Dutch cuisine has come in the past few years.

“I’ve lived around the Dappermarkt for more than 30 years, and I still feel like I’m visiting the entire world every day.” S. El Sherif, 60

Eastern Docklands “modern architecture is the order of the day”

Gone is the old charm of the city with its crooked brick buildings; modern architecture is the order of the day. But what the Islands (Oostelijke Handelskade, Java-eiland, KNSM-eiland, Sporenburg, Borneo-eiland and Cruquiuseiland) lack in historical whimsy is largely compensated by innovative design, splendid urban planning, and killer views over the River IJ. The Eastern Docklands’ personality isn’t done growing, but it already sits on an impressive cultural throne, from night spot Club Panama and Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ (the performance hall for modern classical and jazz fiends) to emerging multicultural centres Pakhuis de Zwijger, Mercat, Mezrab and the Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy.

Pakhuis de Zwijger

You can stop for a quick lunch in this warm and friendly abode on Piet Heinkade, or you can stick around and participate in the events and discussions led by inspiring speakers and artists, focused on the challenges of urbanisation and sustainability, including “Inequity in Education” on 9 March or the “WeMakeThe.City” festival in June. PIET HEINKADE 179 DEZWIJGER.NL

Merkelbach

Located on the fringes of enchanting Frankendael Park, this slow-food restaurant serves fresh, delicious dishes without any ostentation: seasonal soups and salads, sustainable meat and fish, or simple sandwiches that taste right off the farm. If the food isn’t delightful enough for the detour, their landscaped gardens alone merit a visit on a sunny day. MIDDENWEG 72 RESTAURANTMERKELBACH.NL

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Noord 60 |

Café de Ceuvel

text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

With its creative post-industrial vibe and vast green expanses, Noord is a jolt out of classic Amsterdam.

This wild-child, urban-hippie riverside hangout located in a former shipyard has earned its immense popularity by simply doing things the way we want them: fun, relaxed and plentiful. The green, sustainable kitchen delivers delicious, fresh and affordable fare but you’ll also go for Ceuvel’s extensive cultural agenda that includes concerts, pop-up shops, film screenings and parties. KORTE PAPAVERWEG 2-6 DECEUVEL.NL

The Other Side

quick ferry-ride across the River IJ and Amsterdam’s harbour, Noord (North) was strategic during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, and later became a substantial industrial district. Today it’s grown into the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, having refurbished many old shipping warehouses to host trendy eateries like Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant, cultural venues such as Tolhuistuin, exhibition and performance spaces, artist studios – or all of these at once such as Café de Ceuvel. Two things have accelerated the rebirth of Noord from its industrial and suburban ashes: the urgent need for unexplored real estate

for Amsterdam’s growing population, and the cross-river settlement of cultural behemoths like the EYE Filmmuseum and the A’DAM Tower. From there, the district spreads all the way to quaint villages such as Uitdam or Broek in Waterland, crossing a flurry of beautiful parks and wide swaths of nature. But don’t let that tranquillity fool you: Noord is full of surprises, like the rebellious NDSM Wharf, further west along the IJ. Two decades ago, art pioneer Eva de Klerk spied the potential of NDSM and created Kunststad (Art City), a breeding ground for creatives who launched the area’s reputation as the unruly nerve centre of Amsterdam’s indie art scene.

NDSM

Smaaqt

This innocuous new hotspot has promptly stolen the throne for best BBQ ribs in the city. Its cosy interior, decorated with warm woods, bricks and leathers, will have you plop down and devour the racks smoked on the old-time barbecue that sits in their backyard, where you can enjoy a juicy pulled-pork sandwich on sunny days. VAN DE PEKSTRAAT 79 SMAAQT.NL

A’DAM Tower

The tower’s 360-degree Look Out observation deck has an unparalleled view over all of Amsterdam, and sports a giant over-the-edge swing for thrill-seekers. Panoramic restaurant MA’DAM on the top floor becomes a sky-bar at night; revolving restaurant Moon also throws music shindigs; and if you want to stay the night, there’s also urbanboutique hotel Sir Adam. OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1 ADAMTOREN.NL

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With its slapdash flair, NDSM is a thriving cultural Mecca that has laid claim to the city’s most electrifying festivals, as well as being home to cafés and restaurants with some jaw-dropping postmodern architecture. Its cavernous shipbuilding warehouses house art galleries, parties and vintage markets like IJ-Hallen, the largest flea market in Europe.

“Noorderpark is much quieter than the parks in the centre. I walk here every day, I take pictures, it’s good for my health, good for my spirit.” Wim De Groot, 72, photographer

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Pllek

Tolhuistuin

A thriving cultural centre with a gallery, concert hall and dance studios, Tolhuistuin is also home to popular café-restaurant THT with its delicious yet affordable menu and sprawling terrace. Music is courtesy of pop temple Paradiso, the cultural programming is extensive (think lindy-hop classes and theatre festivals), plus it has a beautiful garden. IJPROMENADE 2 TOLHUISTUIN.NL

With a man-made urban beach where hip Amsterdammers flock to bask in the late spring rays, this hotspot never stops. DJs, campfires, movie nights, and lots of happy faces soaking up the alternative vibes and cool drinks. The food is fresh and delicious, just as enjoyable on their outdoor picnic tables as it is in the cosy armchairs behind their giant bay window. TT. NEVERITAWEG 59 PLLEK.NL

STORK

With a stunning, south-facing terrace jutting out over the water, this former ship-engine factory is one of Amsterdam’s best seafood restaurants. The ultimate spot to lazily admire the ships navigating the River IJ, it also sports a star menu – especially the seafood platter with North Sea crab, snow crab, mussels, clams, smoked salmon and mackerel rillettes. GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 201 RESTAURANTSTORK.NL

Centrum 62 | text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

The centre of Amsterdam is a love story between the city’s historical culture and its innovative, avant-garde spirit.

The Red Carpet

ts cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel defines Amsterdam Centrum’s (centre) personality: it’s all about contrasts. The Red Light District itself is one big dichotomy, with a 12th-century church and romantic bridges as the setting for its tawdry windows displaying intimate body parts – real or rubber. Sometimes all the hubbub of Centrum makes it hard to differentiate the tourist traps from the genuine, but the latter is there if you dig a bit deeper, look a little closer, go a little further.

Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross the Singel to step into the Nine Streets, where Dutch fashion designers show off their innovative and trendy skills. A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you into Amsterdam’s real life, with its bustling markets, lively cafés and med-led restaurants. And if you head east instead of west, past the flea market on Waterlooplein (where you’ll find vintage treasures through the piles of cheap souvenirs), you’ll step into the deceptively peaceful Plantage, home not only to

Luba

Mata Hari

Once a disreputable gambling hall, this vintage-style bar is the perfect place to ogle the Red Light District while snacking on bitterballen and beers. Up the gorgeous antique staircase sits the intimate restaurant that serves a seasonal menu, from Middle Eastern mezze to Italian pasta. Stay for after-hours cocktails, when the atmosphere turns festive. OUDEZIJDS ACHTERBURGWAL 22 MATAHARI-AMSTERDAM.NL

L’Étoile de Saint Honoré

A high-end yet affordable boutique of vintage accessory treasures, L’Étoile de Saint Honoré gives you a pass on splurging on that Gucci or Chanel bag you’ve been eying for ages. Most pieces are in pristine condition, and come with a certificate of authenticity; yet you’ll still have cash to stash in the folds of your new purchase, as prices are much more reasonable than… they could be. OUDE SPIEGELSTRAAT 1 ETOILE-LUXURYVINTAGE.COM

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Luba’s racks are stocked with a delightful array of colourful garments and accessories that redefine trendy and chic. After 20 years, Els and Simone are still on the lookout for special, unique pieces from hard-tofind local and international designers. HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 12A LUBA-AMSTERDAM.NL

Utrechtsestraat

For more information on Amsterdam Centrum, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Forget Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and Kalverstraat; some of the best 63 shopping in Amsterdam happens on the Utrechtsestraat, which runs from Rembrandtplein all the way to Frederiksplein. Boutiques include We Are Labels (where the writing’s on the wall: designer brands and more designer brands), local creator of luscious leather bags Smaak, Dutch staple brand Sissy-Boy, and interior design temple Mobilia. As for food, don’t start that diet just yet: Guts & Glory offers a seven-course feast whose theme changes every few months, Bistro des Alpes will stuff you with melted French cheeses, and Pata Negra is a temple to Spanish tapas. Leave room for dessert, with a detour by French-inspired Patisserie Kuyt or chocolate heaven Van Soest.

the famous ARTIS Royal Zoo and the enchanting Hortus botanical gardens, but also a thrumming cultural life including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, the Hermitage Amsterdam Museum, Royal Theatre Carré, the Kriterion cinema – and a slew of exceptional bars and restaurants. Most of all, though, it’s strolling (or cycling) around the Canal Belt that shows off the best qualities of Amsterdam’s centre: its historical beauty, of course, but also its cosy friendliness, and its drive to be a flourishing city at the top of its game – be it in arts, fashion, design, cuisine… or simple joie de vivre.

Brouwerij de Prael

The local brewery hotspot may be Brouwerij ’t IJ, located on the fringes of Oost, with its famous windmill and staple brown bottles adorned with colourful labels. But Brouwerij de Prael, smack in the middle of the Red Light District, isn’t short on fresh brews either, not to mention its friendly, convivial atmosphere. “People and beer” is their motto, and they live up to it.

“The city works hard at keeping the centre liveable. Urban planners redesigned the main avenues and are calling it ‘The Red Carpet’. It is a lot less congested and much safer now.” Anke Dijkhuis, 32, journalist, and her friend Christa

Juffrouw Splinter

This little shop of vintage memorabilia and curiosities should be renamed “everything is adorable”. Jolijn Bosma, who opened the shop 15 years ago, is a master at gathering the endearing: old toys, painted boxes, porcelain tableware and dozens of decorative objects inhabit the first floor of the shop while the basement level holds the romantic, hand-painted furniture. PRINSENGRACHT 230 JUFFROUWSPLINTER.NL

OUDEZIJDS ARMSTEEG 26 DEPRAEL.NL

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IT RAINS IN AMSTERDAM RAINS Store Haarlemmerstraat 82 1013 EV Amsterdam Netherlands

Day Trips

Flowers Castles & Gardens Old Holland New Land Beaches Haarlem

Discover the Amsterdam area

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Keukenhof in Bloom

Known as the most beautiful spring garden in the world, Keukenhof is a glorious celebration of the Netherlands’ worldfamous flower history. The stars of the show are the seven million blooms, covering a huge area of 32 hectares – not to mention the 20 flower shows that take place over the short eight-week season that Keukenhof opens for. Unmissable. 22 MARCH-13 MAY

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Flowers

66 | text: Desiree Karin Engelbrecht van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

A Blooming Good Day Out Discover the heart of the Netherlands booming and blooming flower industry, and the country’s most colourful landscapes, just an hour outside the capital city.

he Dutch bulb fields, whose bulbs and blooms support a billion-euro industry, are a carpet of geometric colour blocks from mid-March through to August. The Netherlands produces a staggering 70% of the world’s commercial flower output. For a colourful glimpse into contemporary Dutch flower power, you need go no further than the so-called “flower strip” (known in Dutch as the Bollenstreek), just an hour from Amsterdam. With the Netherlands’ famous bulb fields in full bloom, you’ll be surrounded on all sides by a rainbow of flowers: purple hyacinths, pink crocuses, bright yellow daffodils and, of course, countless varieties of tulips. And no trip to the Netherlands in spring would be complete without taking in what’s commonly described as “the most beautiful spring garden in the world”: Keukenhof. Located in Lisse – the bulb region south of Amsterdam – Keukenhof is a glorious celebration of the Dutch cult of the tulip. Open for just eight weeks each year (in accordance with the tulip’s national flowering season), the Keukenhof boasts a staggering seven million blooms, planted across the 32-hectare park. With several indoor pavilions, Keukenhof hosts more than 20 flower shows between 22 March and 13 May 2018. Over 600 growers present their most beautiful blooms, and leading florists create truly unique displays with them. The special theme for Keukenhof this year is “Romance in Flowers”.

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Romance in Flowers at Keukenhof

Keukenhof’s theme in 2018 is “Romance in Flowers” – after all, when you think of romance, you think of flowers. In autumn of last year, the gardeners planted the first bulbs that will make up a special Romance in Flowers mosaic once it’s in bloom. What’s more, this historic park was created in the middle of the Romantic period (1857) as an ornamental garden for Keukenhof Castle. The atmospheric outlay surrounding the pond with its beautiful perspectives and centuries-old beech trees has seen millions of bulbs flower since 1950. Many generations have experienced their very own moment of romance right here.

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KEUKENHOF.NL

Flowers

68 | text: Desiree van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

Flower parade

Boat cruise

The combination of horticulture, recreation and nature make Aalsmeer unique. An open or covered boat tour with either Westeinder Rondvaart or Aalsmeer Rondvaart takes you through a maze of islands, and knowledgeable skippers fill you in on the region’s horticultural history.

One of the more spectacular sights in the flower strip is the annual flower parade (bloemencorso), which starts in Noordwijkerhout on Friday 20 April and departs for Haarlem the next day. BLOEMENCORSOBOLLENSTREEK.NL/EN

WESTEINDERRONDVAART.NL / AALSMEERRONDVAART.NL

The world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth) is Royal FloraHolland in Aalsmeer, 15 kilometres outside Amsterdam. The unusual sales method used gave rise to the phrase “Dutch auction”. Dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a “clock” that counts from 100 down to one; thus, the price is lowered – rather than raised – until a buyer is found. The best action is before 09:00 (it opens at 07:00) so you’ll have to get up early to see it, but there are flowers stretching as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine and with an (optional) knowledgeable, multilingual guide you’ll witness the auction process first-hand. Royal FloraHolland is open Monday to Friday only, and is closed on public holidays. FLORAHOLLAND.COM

Royal FloraHolland

Bulbs by bicycle

From Leiden to Haarlem, bold and beautiful stripes of colour criss-cross the landscape. After the crocuses, it’s the turn of the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths – an impressive display that continues into May and beyond. In late summer, the gladioli, dahlias, carnations and asters stage a second show. You’ll catch an eyeful on many of the trains heading southwest from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol – and even from your aeroplane when you’re coming in to land – but the bulb fields truly deserve a closer look. Rent a bike for full floral immersion, and cycle through a patchwork of colour.

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It may be perpetually outshone by its showy floral neighbour, but this castle (located straight across from the world-famous Keukenhof gardens) boasts an impressive history with Golden Age roots. Inside, you’ll find portraits, artefacts and period furniture; in the 230-hectare wooded estate, leading artists’ sculptures are on display. KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

ALL MAPS BY GEMMA PAUWELS / SALT YSTOCK

Keukenhof Castle

Find out more about day trips through the flower fields of North Holland on our website: iamsterdam. com/daytrips

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Castles & Gardens

70 | text: Desiree van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

Discover the Golden Age

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting. A fun family day out.

Home to old castles, fortified towns and ruins, the picturesque fortress stretch – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – offers a fascinating glimpse into medieval times. Or discover the wealth of the Golden Age while biking along the River Amstel with Amsterdam’s southern skyline right behind you. Museums, lakes and lush green polders complete the multi-faced Castles & Gardens area.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Take the boat from Amsterdam IJburg to Pampus Island and Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot, and get a 25% discount with your I amsterdam City Card. Boats run Tuesday–Sunday, 1 April–29 October from IJburg (take tram 26 from Amsterdam Central Station to the Pampuslaan stop).

Pampus Island

Once built to defend the capital, Pampus is now a unique fortress island and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can enjoy a 40-minute tour through the abandoned fortress, a black light scavenger hunt for children, an audio guide in English or German sharing the secrets of 400 years of history, a cosy restaurant, and myriad interesting historical artefacts. PAMPUS.NL

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Rent a bike and explore the banks of the River Amstel. En route to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, you’ll spy old merchant estates from the Golden Age. Why not stop for lunch in one of the fine restaurants in this waterside village? On your way back to Amsterdam, try a local KEK beer on a sunny terrace in the meadows of Amstelland. For avid bikers: extend your trip with an extra loop around the Ronde Hoep to gaze at meandering rivers, spot the local birds, and enjoy a bit of peace and quiet...

River Amstel by bike

Old Holland

Strategically located at the edge of the former Zuiderzee, the scenic towns and villages of Edam, Volendam, Marken and Monnickendam were once about two things: fishing and trading. When the Zuiderzee was impoldered to become the fresh-water IJsselmeer, the area changed dramatically. Fortunately, the authentic character of each of these places has been preserved, including lots and lots of water.

Wetlands Safari

On a Wetlands Safari, you’ll paddle slowly through this unique landscape that inspired Golden Age painters Rembrandt and Ruysdael, keeping an eye out for the numerous aquatic wildlife and songbirds. An expert English-speaking guide will tell you all about the local wildlife, while you get out of the canoe and walk among the reeds. WETLANDSSAFARI.NL

Edam

Edam is one of the Netherlands’ best-kept secrets. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the fortress town was one of the country’s most important commercial centres, with thriving shipbuilding, timber and cheese trading industries. Until 1922, farmers from the surrounding area sailed by boat to Edam’s cheese market, where their produce was weighed and sold. Edam continues to be known around the world for its cheese, so you must try some.

Zaanse Schans

With its traditional windmills, houses, warehouses and workshops, this historic village offers a glimpse into what it was like to live in the industrial heart of the Netherlands in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the village’s characteristic houses are now museums, restaurants or workshops – while others are still private residences. Some of the remaining Zaanse Schans windmills are also open to the public. The Zaans Museum – located at the entrance of the Zaanse Schans – introduces visitors to a typical slice of the Netherlands: the windmills, industrial heritage and green wooden houses.

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DEZAANSESCHANS.NL

Castles & Gardens

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New Land text: Desiree van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

The Dutch Water War

Find out more about day trips to North Holland’s “new land” on our website: iamsterdam. com/daytrips

Almere

A feast for fans of modern architecture, Almere’s skyline elegantly fuses modern design with elements of nature. Iconic Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, with his firm OMA, conceptualised the design of Almere’s city centre to be exceptionally pedestrian-friendly. Restaurants and shopping complete your day trip to Almere.

For centuries the Dutch population has waged a war with water, using dykes, dams, windmills and pumping stations to protect farms and towns. In the 20th century, work began to reclaim a large area of land from the former Zuiderzee, creating the province of Flevoland – essentially “new land” – exemplifying Dutch creativity with water. The cities of Almere and Lelystad offer fascinating glimpses of cutting-edge architecture. You can also visit six pieces of Land Art in a single day – a unique experience.

Wild nature in man-made land

Bird’s-eye view

Take a scenic helicopter or aeroplane flight from Lelystad Airport for a breathtaking ew of the man-made landscape. Follow the flight with a visit to the adjacent Aviodrome, a vast museum covering all aspects of aeroplanes and the development of flight. VISITFLEVOLAND.NL/ATTRACTIONS

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The Oostvaardersplassen is a unique nature reserve between Lelystad and Almere. Comprising 56 square kilometres of protected marshlands and fields, it serves as a migration area for birds, and makes for an amazing spot for a hike or a day of birdwatching. Its “locals” include not just residents of the feathered kind but also wild deer, cattle and Konik horses. The nature film De Nieuwe Wildernis, a spectacular production that captures wildlife over a period of two years, was shot here. Stop by one of the two visitor centres – one in Almere, the other in Lelystad – to join an organised tour.

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Beaches

text: Desiree van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

Beach Life

Zandvoort beach

Zandvoort is one of the Netherlands’ oldest beach resorts, with the first bathhouse founded in 1829. This was the start of the development of a luxury bathing resort frequented by many people of renown – including Austrian Empress Sisi – and it remains one of the region’s most popular beaches. With more than 30 vibrant beach clubs and pavilions, everyone can find the perfect spot to hang out and enjoy the sun with a cold drink.

The Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, a glorious expanse of 3,800 hectares of dunes, attracts two million visitors each year. Living here are over 200 different species of bird, red deer, rabbit and roe deer as well as large grazers such as Highland cattle and a small number of European bison. There are various marked footpaths through the dunes, ranging from one to more than 25 kilometres. The dunes conceal all kinds of surprises, including beautiful valleys, lakes and magnificent viewpoints. So pull on your walking shoes or hire a bike at Visitor Centre De Kennemerduinen.

From early dykes, polders and windmills to more modern feats of aquatic engineering, the Dutch have devised numerous ingenious ways to hold back the water, but few are quite as beautiful as the Dutch dunes. Created to preserve the North Sea coast, the undulating landscape is in stark contrast to the normally oh-so-flat Dutch polders. Enjoy a casual stroll, a lengthy hike or a challenging bike ride across the sands – there’s something for everyone.

NP-ZUIDKENNEMERLAND.NL

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Zuid-Kennemerland National Park

Dutch dune-scape

Just half an hour from Amsterdam, take a seaside stroll, shop till you drop or hop from one sunny beachside terrace to the next. The beach stretches all the way from Zeeland in the south up as far as the Dutch islands. Seaside towns of Zandvoort and IJmuiden are only a short bus or train ride away.

Wild and rugged IJmuiden

IJmuiden has all you need for a day’s sporting entertainment. At Noordpier Beach, kite-surfing is particularly popular, due to the exceptional wind and wave flow caused by the pier. IJmuiden Port is home to a multitude of fishing boats, yachts and vessels. Try your hand at fishing or enjoy fresh fish straight off the boats at the harbour’s many excellent restaurants. Behind the beach, the wide, bunker-studded dunes are great for cycling through.

Haarlem

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

76 | text: Desiree van der Heide and Vicky Hampton

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Historic Haarlem historic city centre and within easy walking distance of one another. Flanked by convivial cafés and restaurants, the Grote Markt is the original centre of Haarlem and is considered by many the most beautiful urban square in the country. The City Hall (which also houses the Tourist Information Centre) stands on the spot of the hunting lodge of the Counts of Holland. The wooden building was almost entirely destroyed by a fire in the 14th century, but was rebuilt in florid style.

If you take the train to Haarlem, you’re in for a treat from the moment you arrive. The only Dutch railway station in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style, Haarlem Station was constructed in 1906 and is characterised by its many tiled panels, decorative ironwork and striking wooden signal house. It’s a fitting introduction to a city that is teeming with exceptionally rich history. There are 4,000 municipal and national listed monuments in Haarlem, many of them in the well-preserved

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De Adriaan Windmill

Teylers Museum

Behind the heavy monumental door of the oldest museum in the Netherlands, the perfectly preserved world of the 18th-century Enlightenment awaits. Wandering through the collection – which is displayed in authentic cases and lit only by daylight – is like leafing through an antique encyclopedia, allowing each object to tell its own story. The free audio tour comes highly recommended.

TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

In the heart of Haarlem, De Adriaan Windmill, originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the scenic river on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. It burned down in 1932, and it took 70 years for local citizens to raise enough money to rebuild the mill. The view of old Haarlem from the platform above the Spaarne River and the city is not to be missed. MOLENADRIAAN.NL

Housed since 2005 in a former hospice, The Dolhuys is the national museum of psychiatry. A major attraction is the inmates’ cells, which date from the 16th century and are still intact. On display are the various personal effects of inmates of several psychiatric hospitals, as well as old treatment methods and tools used by the hospitals themselves. Visitors are encouraged to interact with the exhibits and question the boundary between sanity and insanity.

HETDOLHUYS.NL

The Dolhuys

Local beer A must-see for anyone interested in the Dutch Masters, the Frans Hals Museum celebrates arguably Haarlem’s most famous native. Housed in the poorhouse where Hals spent his final years, the collection focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School, and boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by Hals. The jewels in the crown are the eight group portraits of the Civic Guard that reveal Hals’ exceptional attention to mood. Also look out for paintings by contemporaries such as Hendrick Goltzius and Jacob van Ruisdael.

End a day of (window) shopping with a cold local beer in a former church (Jopenkerk). Brewing Jopen Hoppenbier onsite according to an old Haarlem recipe from 1501, the former Jacobskerk has been beautifully restored – with vaulted ceilings and stained glass intact – and also houses a grand café and restaurant.

FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

JOPENKERK.NL

Frans Hals Museum

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Need to Know

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city. Last-minute Tickets

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10:00, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 08:00-19:00; Thu-Sat 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-18:00 Iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Regional Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 07:00-22:00

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2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip eachÂ carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands. The following public holidays fall in spring 2018:

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-theminute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

30 MARCH: Good Friday (not an official public holiday but many businesses do close) 1 APRIL: Easter Sunday 2 APRIL: Easter Monday 27 APRIL: King’s Day Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

4 MAY: National Remembrance Day (not an official public holiday but some government offices close) 5 MAY: Liberation Day (only an official public holiday every five years, but some government offices close) 10 MAY: Ascension Day 20 MAY: Pentecost Sunday (Whit Sunday) 21 MAY: Pentecost Monday (Whit Monday)

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a

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mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

Map

ZAANSE SCHANS

80 | illustration: Barbara van den Berg / SaltyStock

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7-14

On the Way Out

82 | text and photos: Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Ibrahim Karabulut and Michael Klaus (27), landscapers from Germany “Visit a coffeeshop and then walk around the old canals for hours. The city is not only beautiful, it’s also got a really chill and friendly atmosphere, and you fully experience it on foot, mingling with the locals.”

Giorgia and Deborah (19), students from Italy “Rent a bike and don’t be afraid to explore outside the centre. There is some amazing architecture that you’ll never see back home!”

Simona Stachová (19), Marcel Jurák (19), Katka Bachoríková (15), students from Slovakia “Check out the programming at the big venues like Ziggo Dome or Heineken Music Hall. Sometimes you can find tickets for sold-out events on ticketswap.nl.”

Stefanie Mae (22) and her friends, students from Austria “For a taste of authentic Vietnamese cuisine, head to the Little Saigon restaurant on Zeedijk. It’s really good, and best of all, it’s cheap!”

Fiorillo Marianna (35) and Riccardo Fiorucci (43), from Italy “The Anne Frank House is really worth a visit. The story takes on a whole new dimension once you see where Anne and her family were hiding.”

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken, bureau-studio designer Martijn Blokland, Patrick Keeler, Yvonne Roos deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Marie-Charlotte Pezé, Desiree van der Heide, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Rhys Elliott, Megan Waters, Alison McGarry, Jayne Robinson, Steven McCarron & Alex Hibbert), SaltyStock (Barbara van den Berg, Gemma Pauwels) cover photo Gabrielle Assaf advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn‘t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing

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Eat & shop Brilliant breakfasts Dutch dining Shops, street to chic

Around town

What’s on

Insider's guide to Amsterdam + Make the most of the Dutch flower strip

Rolling Kitchens Festival Van Gogh & Japan Sunset Boulevard in Carré

Magazine | The Spring Issue 2018

Magazine

The Spring Issue

Pedal Power!

22 13

03 05

www.keukenhof.nl

Have a nice stay

2018

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

Vol 1 #2 €4.95

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LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

OPERA FORWARD FESTIVAL — 13 - 26 March

Dutch National Opera

DAS FLOSS DER MEDUSA Hans Werner Henze — 13 – 26 March

Dutch National Ballet

DUTCH DOUBLES — 24 March – 15 April

Dutch National Opera

GURRE-LIEDER Arnold Schönberg — 18 April – 5 May

Dutch National Opera

LA CLEMENZA DI TITO W.A. Mozart — 7 – 24 May

Explore the world

Every Tuesday free lunch concerts –

Take off and fly to 265 destinations worldwide. With KLM and its partners, you can explore your world – klm.com

Every Saturday guided tours

operaballet.nl