A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 4, No. 6

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION NOV & DEC 2016

THE LUXURY EDITION

HOW TO SPEND IT IN A CITY WHERE LUXURY USED TO BE A SIN...

Vol 4 NO 6 €3.50

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 4 N0 6 NOV & DEC 2016

LUXURY

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE How the Dutch went from frowning upon public displays of ostentation to opening the city to high-end fashion, Michelin-starred restaurants, luxurious spas and private jets.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Everything you need to know about holiday entertainment, the monumental Tinguely exhibition at the Stedelijk Museum, Museumnacht – and much, much more.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

P.70 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.51 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

© OUDENES.PHOTOGRAPHY

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch explores hidden urban treasures BoLo and De Baarsjes, plus the hottest new shops & food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

Amsterdam has always had an awkward relationship with luxury. As Sir William Temple, late-17th-century English statesman and essayist, remarked after one of his missions to Amsterdam: ‘They furnish infinite luxury, which they never practise; and traffick in pleasures, they never taste.’

Temple had it almost right. Sure there was luxury, enough of it, but the dominant Calvinist belief did not allow the display of it. The canal houses that doubled as warehouses were veritable palaces on the inside, while on the outside they looked modestly narrow, nothing like the Italian or French palaces of the age.

This mistrustful relationship with wealth lingers to this day. Nowhere else do ministers of government move around on bicycles, or spend their holidays camping. But as Amsterdam has seen an influx of different groups, some particularly wealthy and fond of showing it, things are slowly changing.

First and foremost, the price of real estate in the city has gone up considerably in the past years, almost to the point where you’d think a bubble is in the making. One apartment in the city centre was recently sold for €25 million. New York’s most expensive condo is still ten times that price, but for Dutch standards this is shocking.

Another sure sign is global top-tier hotel brands opening up shop in the city, or the metamorphosis of the quintessentially Dutch de Bijenkorf. Always a grand place to shop, the Dam Square department store has refurbished its ground floor to include brands that sell handbags at the rate of a decent Dutch annual salary.

Should we celebrate or worry? The influx of wealth carries both negative and positive consequences. One the one hand, the money is crowding out the less well to do by driving up real-estate prices and rents.

On the other, more money means more income for the city, which is using it to improve life for Amsterdammers. For the visitor it means more of the shiny and really good stuff to splash on. Read our guide from page 10 and keep spending.

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OPENING

nov & dec 2016

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘GETTING HIGH ON INSPIRATION IN AMSTERDAM.’ RICHARD BRANSON TWEETS HIS APPROVAL DURING AN OCTOBER GET-TOGETHER

text Mark Smith

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

DOUBLE STUFFED What started as a blog about her observations on life in the Netherlands has turned into a mini publishing empire for Canadian-born expat Colleen Geske. The author of ‘Stuff Dutch People Like’ (an affectionate tome that covers everything from white leggings to ‘swearing with diseases’) has two new books out this stocking-filler season. ‘Stuff Dutch People Eat’ is full of know-how gleaned from Geske’s culinary interactions with the home cooks of the Netherlands, and includes a recipe for a stew made from tulip bulbs that dates from the notorious famine that hit the country during World War II. Her other new book, ‘Stuff Dutch Moms Like’, is an ode to the superior parenting skills and laid-back leadership that make Dutch children among the happiest on Earth. www.stuffdutchpeoplelike.com

Women who have found themselves trafficked into Amsterdam’s sex industry are being offered the opportunity of an alternative career, thanks to a restaurant where they can train, gain qualifications and work alongside hospitality professionals. Dignita, an excellent and airy café not far from the Vondelpark, is the brainchild of Toos Heemskerk-Schep, a former social worker. ‘I learned that, OK, now they are in the safe house, now what?

How do they get skills in order to re-integrate into society?’ Some four years in the planning, Dignita was the answer. To date, 162 trainees have joined the programme, which has an entirely self-sustaining business model. www.eatwelldogood.nl

MESSING AROUND He’s won the coveted Ballon d’Or (Golden Ball) trophy an unprecedented five times, and now living legend of Argentine football Lionel Messi has made a surprise appearance in this city’s Golden Age art trove, the Rijksmuseum. Lately, visitors to the museum have been reporting an (ahem) striking resemblance between the star footballer and the 1699 self-portrait by artist Adriaen van der Werff. www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/SK-A465

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‘WORDS ARE WATER IN AMSTER AMSTERDAM, THEY FLOOD YOUR EARS.’

‘A MYSTERY MAN, DRESSED IN A WIG, SUNGLASSES, AND A FAKE MOUSTACHE, DRIBBLED A SOCCER BALL IN THE STREETS.’

THE NARRATOR OF JESSIE BURTON’S BESTSELLER, THE MINIATURIST, HAS HER SAY

© LASER 3.14 - WWW.LASER314.COM

NEW YORK MAGAZINE RUMBLES JUSTIN BIEBER’S OCTOBER APPEARANCE IN AMSTERDAM’S URBAN JUNGLE

MAN OF LETTERS

FRANK PORTRAYAL His gigantic, colourful portraits of the great and good have included the likes of John Lennon, Mahatma Gandhi and Martin Luther King. Now famed Brazilian street artist Eduardo Kobra has brought his highly distinctive handiwork to the blustery post-industrial landscape of North Amsterdam via a massive painting of diarist Anne Frank. Covering an impressive 240 square metres, the painting – which is titled ‘Let me be myself’ after one of the diary’s most famous quotes – can be seen on the side of the Lasloods, a former welding hangar on the Neveritaweg. It took Kobra and his team 450 cans of aerosol paint and 35 litres of enamel to complete the tribute. Next on Kobra’s list is a Dutch sporting icon. In March 2017 he’ll begin work in Brazil on a mural featuring footballer Johan Cruyff, who died this year. www.ndsm.nl

Amsterdam’s creative community has been honouring Rick Lightstone (1954-2016), the much-admired and longserving public relations guru of the American Book Center, who died suddenly in September.

Herman Koch, bestselling author of Het Diner, is one of the writers whom Canadian Rick befriended over the years.

‘ABC is one of those few places in Amsterdam where you actually enter another country,’ he tells A-mag. ‘Thanks to Rick, that country is not 100% the USA, but something more like Montreal. If anyone dares to make changes, we will warn him, wherever he is, and he will come back to save us.’ www.abc.nl

BOXING CLEVER Not content with revolutionising the way aspirational infants are conveyed worldwide, Max Barenbrug, chief design officer of Amsterdam-based brand Bugaboo International, has set about reinventing luggage for adult folk. The modular Bugaboo Boxer is a sexy suitcase system with detachable elements, meaning cabin bags and scanner-bait such as iPads, laptops and so on can be added and subtracted in the blink of an eye. www.bugaboo.com

OIL BE BACK Two priceless paintings that were stolen from the Van Gogh Museum more than a decade ago have turned up in Naples, Italy, following a sting operation at the home of an international drug lord.

‘View of the Sea at Scheveningen’ and ‘Congregation Leaving the Reformed Church in Nuenen’, both painted in the early 1880s, will have to be used as evidence in Italian court proceedings before they can be returned to their rightful home in Amsterdam, however. ‘After so many years I didn’t dare to think they would ever return,’ the director of the Van Gogh Museum said of the surprise discovery. ‘We’ve waited 14 years for this moment, and of course we’d like to take them straight home. We’ll need to exercise a bit of patience.’ www.vangoghmuseum.nl

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nov & dec 2016

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

‘THEIR EXPERIMENTATION WITH SOCIAL TOLERANCE HAS BACKFIRED. AMSTERDAM IS A CESSPOOL OF CORRUPTION… IT’S ANARCHY.’

‘THE MYRIAD OF CULTURAL AND ETHNIC INFLUENCES ACROSS THE CITY IS AN INCREDIBLE ASSET THAT FUELS WORK IN THE MOST INIMITABLE WAY.’

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FOX NEWS PUNDIT MONICA CROWLEY GIVES HER ‘FAIR AND BALANCED’ VIEW OF THE CITY, BACK IN 2009

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ENTREPRENEUR KERRIE FINCH IS KEEPING THE FAITH IN AMSTERDAM, VIA ADVERTISING BIBLE THE DRUM, 2016

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www.brooklynnavyyard.org

TOP 5 to do

© PICTORIGHT AMSTERDAM 2016

The leading Dutch Incubator for start-ups, B.Amsterdam, is opening a branch in Brooklyn, New York. With its new Stateside location, B. Amsterdam will help Dutch and other European companies scale up their operations in the United States, and vice versa. The new incubator will be called B.NY and will occupy approximately 9,000 square metres at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. ‘If they can make it there…’

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BROOKLYN, BABY

© JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

1 JEAN TINGUELY 25 years after his death, the Stedelijk mounts this monumental retrospective of Tinguely’s playful, boldly kinetic machines and explosive performances.

Until 5 March 2017 Stedelijk Museum www.stedelijk.nl

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breathtaking horse carousel, dizzying acrobatics, and of course, clowns.

1 December-8 January 2017 Royal Theatre Carré www.carre.nl

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3 MUSEUMNACHT 57 museums in Amsterdam open their doors after dark with a slew of special events, workshops, parties, and more.

5 November Various locations www.museumnacht.amsterdam

2 WORLD CHRISTMAS

4 AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND

The crème de la crème of the circus world, including a

Delve into Amsterdam’s vibrant contemporary art scene to discover (and get

CIRCUS

your hands on) work by talented young artists.

24-27 November Various locations www.amsterdamart.com

5 AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

The beautiful city centre and its canals are in the limelight, with dozens of illuminated artworks and light installations - to admire on foot or with special tour boats.

1 December-22 January 2017 Various locations www.amsterdamlightfestival.nl

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‘AMSTERDAM HAD ITS SNAPPY DRESSERS FOR SURE, BUT OVERALL THE DUTCH HAD A STRONG INCLINATION TO FROWN ON CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION.’ BRITISH AUTHOR BEN COATES WEIGHS IN ON THE LUXURY DEBATE, VIA HIS 2015 EXPAT ANTHEM, WHY THE DUTCH ARE DIFFERENT

WE ALL COUNT The Netherlands will get its first Aids memorial on 1 December (World Aids Day), when a metre-high abacus is unveiled on the waterfront between Central Station and the Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ concert hall. The work, which represents the myriad ways in which the disease can be quantified (T-cell count, infection rate…), is by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, who constructed the monument pro bono.

CATCH THEIR DRIFT It hasn’t been long since the prototypes of self-driving cars first hit the roads, and already Amsterdam is ushering in a new chapter in the international push for autonomous vehicles. Roboat (see what they did there?) is the world’s first large-scale programme investigating the potential for autonomous aquatic vessels. And it’s not just a matter of transit. ‘Roboat offers enormous possibilities,’ says Professor Arjan van Timmeren, Scientific Director of the Amsterdam Institute for Advanced Metropolitan Solutions.

‘We could, for instance, do further research on underwater robots that can detect diseases at an early stage, or use Roboats to rid the canals of floating waste and find a more efficient way to handle the 12,000 bicycles that end up in the city’s canals each year.’ www.ams-institute.org

www.aidsmemorial.nl

SMART MOVE Any host who’s been annoyed by the wandering eyes of a smartphone-toting dinner guest can take heart from an Amsterdam invention that seeks to prioritise sociability above social media.

The reinforced digital box, which fits up to four phones at a time, is locked using a code and will only open once the allotted time has expired. You might strike up a conversation… or finally write that novel. www.kickstarter.com

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luxury

LAP OF LUXURY

In spite of their deep-rooted aversion to ostentation, the Dutch are developing a taste for the finer things . Today, opportunities to revel in luxury abound in Amsterdam.

SPA TIME As exemplified by sprawling super-spa Zuiver, the Dutch have long had a penchant for letting it all hang out in the name of wellness. That said, international visitors may well crave a more discreet dose of pampering.

The Guerlain luxury spa in the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam is part of an elite brand of beautification destinations that scooped up the World Luxury Spa Award this year. Guests here are welcomed aboard socalled Transforming Experiences (think ‘Bridal Glow’ and ‘Imperial Refinement’) with a glass of Champagne and access to the spa’s small but perfectly formed pool, sauna and steam bath facilities. Slightly more affordable – but no less luxurious – the homegrown SOAP Treatment Store offers everything from instant facelifts to waxing and pedicures. Unsightly trotters be gone!

SPA ZUIVER Koenenkade 8 www.zuiveramsterdam.nl GUERLAIN SPA Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam Herengracht 542-556 www.waldorfastoria.hilton.com SOAP TREATMENT STORE Spuistraat 281 and elsewhere www.soaptreatmentstore.com

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The Dutch ideals of Protestant sobriety not only translated into a style of design that’s become renowned worldwide for its glorious simplicity, but also into an idea of opulence that steers clear of the garish and gaudy. text Mark Smith

C

KEEPING IT CLASSY

heck Facebook for pictures of your Dutch friends’ office parties this festive season and the anthem ‘Do They Know It’s Christmas?’ may spring to mind. While cousins in the UK are turning themselves into hard-drinking, conga-dancing Christmas trees complete with sequins and wacky reindeer knits, Nederlanders consider it perfectly acceptable to wear jeans to a work celebration. Despite the valiant efforts of advertising billboards entreating them to smarten up, the Amsterdammer’s work-do game plan – if there is one – involves blending in, as opposed to shining forth.

Come 25 December, if you’re giving or receiving an example of famed ‘Dutch design’ – a tubular aluminium Van Moof bike, say, or a Zig-Zag Chair by iconic architect Gerrit Rietveld, or an adhesive lamp from Amsterdam’s Droog – you can bet it will be characterised by a quiet simplicity of form that belies the thought and expertise that’s gone into it.

Across the board, this aesthetic aversion to ostentation is encapsulated in the wellworn phrase: ‘doe maar gewoon, dan doe je al gek genoeg’ – which approximates to ‘just act normal, that’s crazy enough’.

Cécile Narinx, Editor-in-Chief of luxury fashion bible Harper's Bazaar, had the proverb in mind when she authored her new book Dit Boek Gaat Niet Over Mode ('This Is Not A Book About Fashion’), a revealing romp through Dutch wardrobes.

‘The typical woman from North Holland has one handbag that sees her from day to night, and she lives in jeans because practicality is everything,’ says Narinx. ‘In the southern, Catholic part of the Netherlands, it’s a different story. There it’s not considered quite so suspicious to spend money on your appearance.’

THE EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES As with so many aspects of Amsterdam life, to understand the city’s relationship with luxury, we need to sail back to the Dutch Golden Age, when the city was the amazon.com of the world. Seventeenth century English statesman and essayist Sir William Temple shaped a view of the Amsterdam psyche, which remains nigh on indelible more than 300 years later, when he wrote, ‘They are the great masters of the Indian spices and of the Persian silks, but wear plain woolen, and feed upon their own fish and roots[…] They send abroad the best of their own butter into all

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© TEO KRIJGSMAN

SUITE DREAMS Despite its reputation for moderation and modesty, Amsterdam offers some truly extraordinary stays for the wellheeled out-of-towner. A dazzling renovation of a 19th-century bank-turned-music school, the Conservatorium Hotel is the hostelry of choice for design-savvy stars, and has hosted the likes of Madonna, Gaga and Justin Bieber, possibly in the extraordinary Piero Lissoni-designed suite that hangs like a square-cut gem above the hotel’s lofty atrium. Speaking of heady heights, the new kid on Amsterdam’s bling block is The Loft. Part of the A’DAM Tower, the city’s Mecca to musical entertainment, this lavish übersuite boasts quarters for your private chef, a banqueting room and spectacular views over the waters of the IJ to Central Station and beyond. For a negotiable five-figure sum, you can make all your rock-star dreams come true.

CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL Van Baerlestraat 27 www.conservatoriumhotel.com THE LOFT A’DAM Tower, Overhoeksplein 1 www.adamtoren.nl

ROYAL ACCESSORIES Fabulous arm candy is the stock in trade of the Museum of Bags and Purses, of course, but its current exhibition, Royal Bags, is a rare and regal treat. The carefully curated collection of historical accessories includes items previously owned

by Queen Elizabeth II, Empress Sissi of Austria, Princess Grace of Monaco and (naturally) members of the Dutch royal family, both past and present. Rumour has it that Queen Màxima personally selected three bags from her own extensive collection. Sadly, rummaging around for a handy Kleenex is not encouraged.

UNTIL 26 FEBRUARY Tassenmuseum, Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl

EXCESS ALL AREAS Amsterdam’s sense of elegant sufficiency is put on hold for four heady days in December, when lavish art, interior design, gastronomy, jewellery, cars, watches and other covetable items are put on show at Europe’s biggest premium lifestyle fair inside the RAI convention centre. Masters of LXRY boasts exclusive product launches, fashion shows and countless opportunities to mingle with the haves, the haveyachts and the elusive 1%. Be sure to take along your ostrich leather-bound autograph book – previous opening ceremonies have been graced by the likes of Sarah Ferguson, Brooke Shields, Linda Evangelista and Elle Macpherson.

9-12 DECEMBER Amsterdam RAI www.lxry.nl

13 parts, and buy the cheapest out of Ireland or the North of England, for their own use. In fine, they furnish infinite luxury, which they never practise; and traffick in pleasures they never taste.’

In retrospect, it seems fair to say that there’s more than a touch of confirmation bias in Sir William’s depiction of the Amsterdammers as sackcloth-wearing, penny-pinching bling pimps who traded saffron all day then went home to nibble gratefully on a turnip stamppot. In the popular imagination, at least, Dutch attitudes to luxury have long been elided with Calvinism, a doctrine that swept the Netherlands during the Protestant Reformation and which prizes sobriety, reserve and thrift. Wealth, we are told, was considered inherently corrupting in the Dutch Republic.

Obviously, the unprecedented influx of merchant money in Amsterdam would have presented a moral hazard to a populace reared exclusively on the virtues of piety and parsimony. But, as historian Jan de Vries argues persuasively in his essay Luxury and Capitalism, Luxury and Calvinism, it’s likely that the role of Calvinism in Golden Age Holland has been misunderstood. According to De Vries, John Calvin himself shared with the Christian Humanists of his age an relativistic view on the subject of wealth, writing: ‘Let all men live in their respective stations, whether slenderly, or

moderately, or plentifully, so that all may remember that God confers his blessings on them for the support of life, not for luxury’. In essence, a bit of extravagance is fine, as long as you keep your priorities in perspective.

WEALTH WITH A HIGHER PURPOSE It’s interesting to consider this when enjoying the famous still-life paintings in the Rijksmuseum. The 1664 Pronkstilleven (literally, ‘ostentatious still life’) by Adriaen van Utrecht, with its rich array of fruits, meats and tablewares, would have reminded viewers of the fabulous prosperity of their republic – a land where even common workers and fishermen could enjoy fresh meat, vegetables, fruit, eggs and cheese. But there are other paintings – for example Vanitas Still Life by Jacques de Claeuw – in which flowers wither, insects devour the fruit, and lavishly set tables are in disarray. They reinforce the transience of material goods and the superior weight of moral considerations.

One of those considerations was the elevation of society as a whole, and as the Dutch East India Company (VOC) enriched the merchants, a great many artists in turn benefited from the patronage of those who – in keeping with Calvinism – believed that wealth should be used to support meaningful cultural endeavours. As homes filled with Delft pot-

SIPPING PRETTY If you’re going to raise a glass to the finer things in life, you could do a lot worse than pay a visit to one of Amsterdam’s new slew of watering holes that cater to the city’s nascent cocktail culture. There’s no secret password, but cocktail bar Hiding in Plain Sight still manages to provide lashings of speakeasy cool in a quiet street just shy of the bustle of the city centre. The menu here is a boozer’s bible of carefully crafted cocktails with a hint of Tiki, pre-prohibition classics and original libations such as the Walking Dead, which is served (but of course!) in a terrifying crystal skull. The owners have done a solid job of evoking a sultry vibe with glimpses of lush wallpaper, cosy Chesterfields, and the staff are kitted out in elegant waistcoats. Meanwhile, the Amstel Hotel’s A Bar is a polished study in considered chic, while the Bluespoon Bar at the Andaz Amsterdam takes Dutch designer Marcel Wanders’ trademark kitsch sensibility and cranks up the swish factor. Proost!

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT Rapenburg 18 www.hpsamsterdam.com A BAR Amstel Hotel, Professor Tulpplein www.a-bar.nl BLUESPOON BAR Andaz Amsterdam, Prinsengracht 587 www.amsterdamprinsengracht.andaz.hyatt.com

JET SET, GO! The Amsterdam high life took on a decadent new dimension five years ago with the grand opening of a private jet terminal at the city’s famous airport. General Aviation (GA for those in the know) is Schiphol-Oost’s handy launch pad for private and business flights using aircraft for no more than 19 passengers. The terminal itself features white, grey and black tiles in a traditional Dutch windmill design, not to mention the opportunity to lord it up inside the Summum Private Jet Lounge, which serves food and drinks by the culinary craftspersons behind De Bokkedoorns, a fine-dining stalwart in provincial Overveen that boasts two Michelin stars. As you’d expect, utmost discretion comes as standard, and a team of bodyguards can be arranged at the drop of an email.

Thermiekstraat 20 www.summumlounge.nl

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There are bound to be a few surprises at the launch of the latest Michelin Guide on 7 December, when Amsterdam’s top restaurants hear whether they’ve lost or gained a star. At the time of writing, the city counted four 2-star establishments and ten 1-star restaurants, of which one closed recently. An excellent option is freshly renovated Vermeer*, where head chef Chris Naylor delivers seasonal dishes like cider-marinated mackerel ceviche with grilled avocado and cucumber-rosemary sauce against a beautiful backdrop of hand-painted floral wallpaper. At Librije’s Zusje**, executive chef Sidney Schutte’s innovative food remains a favourite for his masterful marriage of Dutch ingredients with Asian influences, such as red mullet, razor clams and Dutch goat butter with cocoa and kombucha.

And, at Sinne*, the most affordable option, €38 buys you three courses in a classy, candlelit setting: think Iberico-style ribs with shiitake compote, celeriac cream and sticky jus.

CHOCS AWAY Fact: Amsterdam boasts the world’s largest cocoa harbour. So it’s no surprise that the city also has plenty of specialised stores to meet the exacting demands of even the fussiest of chocolate connoisseurs. For those days when supermarket chocolate just won’t cut it, Puccini Bomboni, Pompadour and Huize van Wely are just a few of the artisans creating some seriously tempting treats.

PUCCINI BOMBONI Staalstraat 17, Singel 184, Oudekerksplein 17A www.puccinibomboni.com POMPADOUR Huidenstraat 12, Kerkstraat 148 www.pompadour-amsterdam.nl HUIZE VAN WELY Beethovenstraat 72 www.huizevanwely.nl

VERMEER Prins Hendrikkade 59-72 www.restaurantvermeer.nl LIBRIJE’S ZUSJE Herengracht 542-556 www.librijeszusje.nl SINNE Ceintuurbaan 342 www.restaurantsinne.nl

LABELS FOR LESS If your bank balance is more red than black, you can save on those splurge items without losing points in the style stakes by taking advantage of some of Amsterdam’s famed vintage troves. A veritable Ali Baba’s cave of second-hand designer fashion, Salon Heleen Hulsman only carries the most carefully hand-picked clothes, shoes and accessories from couture collections of the past three years. Hidden in a posh residential building in Oud-Zuid, their prized selection includes Stella McCartney scarves, Saint Laurent sneakers and Missoni dresses.

Another relative newcomer, L’Étoile de Saint Honoré is a wonderland of upscale vintage accessories from the likes of Chanel, Hermès and Gucci. More akin to a chic boutique than a dusty second-hand store, the shop supplies a certificate of authenticity with each purchase, and the reassuringly expensive price tags reflect this. A pristine Louis Vuitton clutch will set you back something in the region of €200.

SALON HELEEN HULSMANN De Lairessestraat 13B www.salonheleenhulsmann.nl ETOILE DE SAINT HONORÉ Oude Spiegelstraat 1 www.etoile-luxuryvintage.com

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

TEXT KARIN ENGELBRECHT

MICHELIN MARVELS

15 would have been considered an extravagant sum’. Boers notes that, despite the giddy expenditure, Blesen was, in the main, preoccupied by the desire that her funeral should be elegant, ‘but not too much.’ It was, you could say, her ultimate humblebrag.

NO-FRILLS INDULGENCE Nathalie Wouters, acting deputy editor of Dutch Vogue, thinks this ethos is alive and well today. ‘We’re good at studied nonchalance – the ‘no make-up’ look that actually involves an expensive foundation and a trip to the brow bar,’ she says. ‘The designer labels that Dutch people like are the likes of Isabel Marant, Acne and A.P.C. – quiet clothing that costs a lot but looks utterly casual. It’s a kind of camouflage.’

Is it possible, then, that the Dutch invented normcore?

One expat fashion designer (who wishes not to be named) confides that she suspects the reason Amsterdam is increasingly popular as a base for multinational fashion brands: ‘It’s a fashion-neutral city. Clothes designed here aren’t identifiably from anywhere in particular, so you can sell them everywhere.’ In a world where democratic denim is one of the defining commodities de nos jours, Amsterdam has retained its masterful understanding of what the global citizen wants and desires.

Consequently, Calvin Klein’s European headquarters is stationed right here, in the centre of the spiritual home of Calvinism. Fancy that.

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tery, there was a boom in cabinetmaking.

Shipbuilding skills were put to new use in the construction of splendid houses, causing the Papal Nuncio to Cologne, Pallavicino, to remark, after visiting a near-complete Canal Belt, ‘Only a nation that does not squander its wealth on clothes or servants could have succeeded in doing all this with so little fuss.’

Even as décor became more refined, daily life for the most part remained simple in the Dutch Republic.

Beer was the main beverage for the well-to-do merchant’s family, and his house would have fewer servants’ rooms than its equivalent in England or France, on account of taxes that discouraged domestic help.

According to Thijs Boers, curator at the Amsterdam Museum, ‘Clothing in Amsterdam was less elaborate than in The Hague, which was a court city full of ambassadors for whom it was important to dress up.’ He notes that the rich burghers of Amsterdam – with no real nobility to emulate – would favour black attire.

‘But it had to be the right kind of black – the expensive one,’ laughs Boers. Merchants could signal their success, but they were discouraged from lording it over the less fortunate, who always loomed nearby. ‘It’s such a small country, and Amsterdam is so densely populated that everyone can see how everyone else is living,’ says Boers.

Boers has been researching the archive of the Cromhouthuis on the Herengracht (which recently reopened as a museum) and was astonished to note that Johanna Blesen, wife of the wealthy Godefridus Cromhout, had a funeral costing 23,000 guilders in 1738, ‘when even two or three thousand guilders

THE BLING RING Don’t be fooled by the (relatively) modest waterfront façades, which were designed to confound the tax man during the 17th century, when levies were calculated by width. Life was pretty darn fancy for the original denizens of the Canal Belt – arguably the world’s first luxury property development. Nowadays the great unwashed are welcome to snatch a sense of the pomp and opulence of the past at one of the city’s perfectly preserved canal-house museums. Enter through the former coach house and the lush secluded garden to experience the hidden wealth of Amsterdam’s bourgeois elite at the Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis. Find beautiful portraits, impressive furniture and silver spanning the centuries at Museum Van Loon, or soak up the authentic 19th-century atmosphere at the Museum Willet-Holthuysen. The recently reopened Cromhouthuis Museum reveals the ups-and-downs of a family dynasty that occupied four regal buildings for the best part of two centuries. Acclaimed stylists’ collective The Wunderkammer has been entrusted with a recent refurb and, once you’re done with earthly delights, the Biblical Museum upstairs may bring you closer to the big guy.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HUIS Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl MUSEUM VAN LOON Keizersgracht 672 www.museumvanloon.nl MUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl CROMHOUTHUIS MUSEUM Herengracht 366 www.cromhouthuis.nl

DIAMOND LIFE Quite apart from the shimmering waters of its celebrated canals, Amsterdam is a city built on some serious sparkle, and Gassan Diamonds is undoubtedly the jewel in its glittering crown.

Located in a beautifully restored, originally steam-driven diamond factory that was built in 1879, this venerable institution offers the chance to see today’s legion of super-skilled diamond polishers perfecting their craft. Multilingual guides explain where and how diamonds are found, and detail the meticulous and miraculous transition from rough-looking rocks to girl’s new best friend. Exit through the gift shop…if you dare.

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 175 www.gassan.com

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PART I UP CLOSE

luxury

'We’re good at studied nonchalance – the ‘no make-up’ look that actually involves an expensive foundation and a trip to the brow bar.’

DE BIJENKORF Nothing in Amsterdam spells indulgent shopping as much as de Bijenkorf, the luxury department store gracing the Dam Square. After extensive renovations, this six-floor, 75,000 m2 mecca to fashion and home décor is ready for the holiday shopping season, with an airier, brighter and even more lavish atmosphere.

Prada, Gucci and Alexander McQueen are only a few of the luscious brands to be found in their fashion department, which is now even more spacious and grandiose.

The most sinful fantasies of shoe-shopping addicts come true on the third floor with more than 65 brands such as Ferragamo, Jimmy Choo and Chloé, but also hard-tofind Dutch brands such as trendy sneaker guru Filing Pieces.

On the ground floor, their brand new selection of fine leather goods includes the collections of Furla, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dior and, an exclusive in the Netherlands, Céline – well worth a detour in the vast palace of white marble.

For a well-needed break from that shopping fever, de Bijenkorf also offers refreshments and fine foods at the Dam Café on the first floor and at the Kitchen, the beautiful restaurant with a roof terrace on the fifth floor. With the added privilege of a tax-free lounge, it will be difficult to leave this fashion heaven without armfuls of shopping bags, à la Pretty Woman.

Dam 1 www.debijenkorf.nl

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TURN ON THE LIGHTS To kick off the season in style, de Bijenkorf puts on a dazzling show on the night they first reveal their windows’ magnificent holiday-themed decorations and illuminate the store’s facade with hundreds of thousands of LED lights. While the ornaments and lights will stay until the end of January, that first night is a grand and festive affair with music, large floats and installations, aerial acrobatics and circus tricks, and a dazzling fireworks show.

17 NOVEMBER De Bijenkorf

TREASURE TROVE Amongst the exquisite brands of high-end jewellery showcased at de Bijenkorf, Cartier is opening a new shop-inshop of its famed classic watches and accessories, joining Tiffany & Co, the peddler of women’s best friends, with its staple lovely aqua blue, whiteribboned gift boxes – in case you want to make it a very special white diamond Christmas proposal.

BEAUTY WORLD Putting a fresh face on luxury, de Bijenkorf's Beauty World department also got a makeover, with now 1200 m2 and more than 200 skin-care specialists dedicated to the store’s unprecedented line of cosmetics and fragrances, and a treatment room where you can book an appointment for a blissful facial with products from La Mer, Estée Lauder, Dermalogica or Lancôme.

November - December — Language no problem — operaballet.nl

Dutch National Ballet presents

Dutch National Opera presents

Romantic Ballet at it’s best — 8 October – 13 November

Georg Friedrich Händel — 9 – 27 November

Dutch National Opera presents

Dutch National Ballet presents

Richard Wagner — 6 – 29 December

The holiday season classic 10 December - 1 January

LA BAYADÈRE

PARSIFAL

JEPHTHA

COPPELIA

nov & dec 2016

PART II 20 23 24 29 30 31

ENTERTAINMENT

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HOLIDAY PERFORMANCES MUSEUMNACHT TINGUELY AT STEDELIJK THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS

THE AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL With a sun that sets mid-afternoon, it’s easy to imagine that the city spends the winter hibernating with cups of hot cocoa and Netflix reruns. Not so – leave it to Amsterdam to fight the early nights by illuminating its streets and canals with glorious light installations. Dozens of spectacular pieces of art by local and international artists are on display, including giant projections on historical buildings, light sculptures and innovative and interactive lighting systems.

Most transcend beauty and technology with humour, reflections on social issues or historical significance. The festival boasts two different routes: the Water Colours boat route, with this year's theme ‘A View on Amsterdam’, following the Amstel River; and the Illuminade walking route, which meanders through the Plantage along artwork that speaks of biomimicry and connecting nature and the city.

'AMSTERDAM HAS A DEEP-ROOTED ATTITUDE OF CURIOSITY AND ADVENTUROUS ENDEAVOURS'.

Stedelijk Director Beatrix Ruf admires her adoptive city's insatiable engagement with culture

1 DECEMBER – 22 JANUARY Water Colours 15 DECEMBER – 8 JANUARY Illuminade

FROM THE WATER

www.thosedamboatguys.com €25 for 90+-minute guided boat tour Light Festival departures at 17:00, 19:00, 21:00

€2 discount with the code A(wesome)Mag

© JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

Many canal tour operators offer the Water Colours boat tour, including Those Dam Boat Guys (Amsterdam's #1 boat tour on Trip Advisor). The quirky, informative captains who let you eat, drink and, err, smoke anything you like on board, will offer additional 90-minute evening tours with a covered boat during the Amsterdam Light Festival. They even provide blankets for the chilly winter nights.

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

holiday season

From darkness to light

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This holiday season brings magical performances: dark operas, comic ballet, and both thrilling and light classical concerts. text Catalina Iorga

6 - 29 DECEMBER Parsifal 10 DECEMBER - 1 JANUARY 2017 Coppelia Dutch National Opera Amstel 3 www.operaballet.nl

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13 DECEMBER The Nutcracker 22 DECEMBER - 8 JANUARY 2017 World Christmas Circus Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115-125 www.carre.nl

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16 DECEMBER Christmas Classics at the Movies 23 & 25 DECEMBER Bach’s Christmas Oratorium Classic 20 DECEMBER Christmas Concert Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl

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he Dutch National Opera (DNO) travels back in time with Parsifal, a dark knights tale set in medieval Spain. Richard Wagner concocted this five-hour marathon, his last opera, while exploring the teachings of Christianity and Buddhism in his final years. The story may be simple – hero Parsifal journeys to sorcerer Klingsor’s castle to conquer physical temptation, recover the stolen Holy Spear and restore balance to the knights’ order – but the opera is less about plot and more about spiritual epiphanies and magical tunes, majestically performed by the

Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra. Pierre Audi, the Opera’s soon-departing Resident Director, enrolled artist Anish Kapoor, whose ability for distorting space and time appears in Act II in the form of a massive golden mirror that contrasts Audi’s purposefully austere direction.

FUN AND SPECTACULAR Abstaining from earthly delights is all well and good, but there’s nothing wrong with a little frothy fun. Enter Coppelia, the Dutch National Ballet’s contemporary interpretation of the immensely popular comic ballet in which Coppélius, a village

doctor, creates a life-size dancing doll so authentic that a smitten young Franz abandons his sweetheart Swanhilda. To show Franz the error of his ways, Swanhilda dresses up like the doll and pretends to come alive.

Under Ted Brandsen, the company’s director, Coppelia gets a millennial makeover: Dr. Coppélius’s lab is now a botox-peddling plastic surgery clinic, and the village turns into a sports school and juice bar. But the moral of the story still stands: outer beauty is easy to manufacture; what truly matters is inside.

Royal Theatre Carré’s holi-

21

highlights SINTERKLAAS

SINTERKLAAS

ICE SKATING

ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL

With more than a kilometre of floats and boats, Amsterdam hosts the largest Saint Nicholas parade in the world. The white-bearded legend traditionally makes his spectacular entrance into the city by sailing his steamboat down the Amstel before mooring amid great fanfare at the Maritime Museum, where he is welcomed by the mayor ahead of a day-long parade through the streets of Amsterdam. At his final stop on Leidseplein, Sinterklaas delivers a special message to his smallest fans from the balcony of the Stadsschouwburg National Theatre.

13 November

ICE-SKATING Skating the canals of Amsterdam is an enchanting but rare treat, as it takes four days at subzero temperatures for the ice to reach safe thickness levels. In the meantime, aficionados must not despair: Amsterdam has you covered with three delightful outdoor rinks. In Oost, the Jaap Eden complex, home to the Amstel Tigers hockey team, has an indoor rink and a giant, 400-metre outdoor rink that's open from October to March. Their Saturday disco nights are the perfect excuse to finally don that sequined costume. Reopening on 18 November, Ice* Amsterdam on Museumplein is a lot of fun for the whole family, usually open until 22:00 – and what a treat with the Rijksmuseum in the background. www.jaapeden.nl, www.iceamsterdam.nl

ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL day programming is just as enthralling, with The Nutcracker, Tchaikovsky’s exciting tale of Clara and her prince, performed by the Kharkiv State Opera & Ballet Theatre. The Ukrainian collective keeps it classic and classy for a pure, unadulterated experience of this holiday favourite. Kick the joy up a notch with Carré’s breathtaking ’World Christmas Circus’, a global affair with award-winning acts from countries such as China, Russia and Switzerland, such as Circus Knie’s enchanting carrousel of 28 horses or the Skokov Group’s swing act, complete

with gasp-worthy, 20-metre-long jumps.

CHRISTMAS CONCERTS As Christmas draws closer, step fully into the light of the chandelier-adorned main hall of the Concertgebouw for a string of blissful performances. ’Christmas Classics at the Movies’ with the Aachen’s Children’s Choir, Opera Choir, Symphony Choir and Symphony Orchestra bring back the feel-good scores of Christmas faves such as Elf, Home Alone, White Christmas, Love Actually and The Snowman. For more peaceful reflection, Brit-

ish baroque master Trevor Pinnock conducts the last three acts of Bach’s Christmas Oratorium, a six-part monumental work of sacred music. The last step to fullblown celebration mode is the ’Classic Christmas Concert’, brought to you by the Czech Philharmonic and the Prague Choir. This magical gala has it all: not only special pieces by Schubert, Bach, Vivaldi, Mozart and DvoÐák, but also beautiful renditions of well-known Christmas carols. Happy holidays!

The theme for this year’s spectacular IJsbeelden Festival is ‘Music Inspires’. For almost two months, the ArenA Park transforms into an icy wonderland, with incredible ice artwork made by the best ice sculpture artists from around the world, taking visitors on a musical journey that honours famous musicians (like recently departed Prince and David Bowie) but also immerse visitors in tunes through the ages, from Mozart and the Roaring Twenties through punk music all the way to electro and hip hop. The impressive, dazzling installations even include John Travolta dancing to Saturday Night Fever and Michael Jackson goading his zombies. The festival also boasts many other fun winter activities and games – and food!

10 December – 5 February ArenA Park

___ Want to meet Vincent?

Book online. Skip the line.

Van Gogh engages you.

PART II

nov & dec 2016

23

Night at the Museum For one night every year, Museumnacht transforms Amsterdam’s weird and wonderful museums into interactive playgrounds. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

W

ho said that museums are stuffy places where you can hear a pin drop? Not the organisers of Museumnacht, who want to engage the younger crowds in Amsterdam’s rich cultural world by shaking things up for one night every year. They even offer free transport with your ticket so you can enjoy as much of this annual nighttime museum crawl as your heart desires.

Of the 57 participating museums, many feature live music, DJs, bars and food, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg as institutions vie to engage the public with spectacular or quirky and often interactive events. The Rijksmuseum invited Earthquake, a Brazilian brass band, to set the mood for their special guided tours of Frans Post’s exotic animal paintings, and also offer workshops throughout the night to teach you how to draw with ink, paint with light or create your own accessories with Berry Rutjes, who has designed hats for Queen Máxima.

A DIFFERENT LIGHT If this already sounds like a lot of fun, you can take the full measure of what Museumnacht is all about with the dance performance showcased in the Grand Hall of this world-renowned classical art institution: choreographed by The Mosquitoes, it consists of two dancers dressed up as…giant mosquitoes.

While we’re on bugs, Micropia at Artis will teach you everything you ever wanted to know about microbe sex but were afraid to ask. And because nighttime museum visits are only better with a touch of the creeps, Museum Vrolik will lend you flashlights so

you can discover their collection of human and animal anatomical specimens in the dark – and even touch some.

DO IT YOURSELF While most institutions relish the opportunity to present their collections or current exhibitions under a new light, many also want you to get your hands dirty. Unleash your inner artist at De Appel Art EYE Museum, where Gabriel Lester encourages visitors to create via intuition and free associations. The Outsider Art Museum has Japanese bookbinding workshops and a quirky plastic-puppet making challenge.

With more than 350 events, the options are countless: at FOAM, a photobooth will capture your portrait in the old black-andwhite style of famous Albanian studio Marubi; the Allard Pierson Museum invites you to test your acting chops at an improv night; NEMO sets up a science lab so you can play chemist; and the Hermitage Museum Amsterdam will feed you German sausage and cheese.

And of course, because it’s not a real crawl without at least a bit of a pub element, the Rembrandthuis is hosting a beer-tasting evening courtesy of Brouwerij Kleiburg – among many other cultural hotspots where food and drinks will flow freely throughout the night.

5 NOVEMBER Various locations www.museumnacht.amsterdam

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

tinguely

Mechanical spectacles 25 years after his death, the Stedelijk Museum is presenting a major retrospective on Tinguely’s edgy and playful machine art.

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© Jean Tinguely, Elément Détaché III, 1954. Collectie Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, c/o Pictoright Amsterdam, 2016.

text Joke van der Weij translation Elysia Brenner

J

ean Tinguely withdrew at a young age to the working-class, rural environment from which he came. On weekends he preferred to retreat to the woods around his birthplace of Freiburg. There, he built constructions made of dozens of wooden cogs, driven by the flow of a stream. Each cog turned at its own pace. He also incorporated cans that made sound with the help of a little hammer. For days, the primitive installation would play its ‘concert’ of sounds that could be heard from a hundred metres away. Not that he was intentionally making art out there in the Swiss woods, but he did imagine what it would be like if a lone wanderer happened upon his installation’s noises.

ART IN MOTION Even with recognition quickly mounting in the ‘50s, he spent his entire life in opposition to the traditional art world, which he found too rigid. Movement! An artist must continue playing, continue experimenting. And his kinetic art literally set the world of art in motion.

Arty elitist? He designed do-it-yourself drawing machines that allowed visitors to make their own unique art. Tinguely met kindred spirits in Daniel Spoerri, Yves Klein, the Zero group – that was so important in the Netherlands – and Niki de Saint Phalle, whom he not only worked with but eventually married.

He used his success and charisma to further his ideas of what art should be. His exhibitions were a resounding success. The last three years before his unexpected death he spent setting up the Torpedo Institute, a new museum in an old glass factory in the Freiburg area.

He consistently spoke of it as an ‘anti-museum’ where completely different rules would govern than in ‘normal’ museums. However, it never got off the ground. But we also don’t need it to enjoy the genius of Tinguely or to feel a burst of joy at his edgy, antibourgeois art full of such a lust for life.

DANCE OF DEATH The exhibition ‘Jean Tinguely – Machine Spectacle‘ in the Stedelijk

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don’t miss these

© ANNE VAN DER WEIJDEN

A Chinese refugee himself, Ai Weiwei has spent the past year travelling around the Mediterranean, visiting refugee camps in Syria, Turkey, Israel, Italy and France. He turned his smartphone camera to the individuals who have risked their lives to find a haven in a better, safer place – too often to find themselves facing even more hardship, rejection and danger.

Covering the walls of FOAM in a giant, tragic collage, the thousands of photos and portraits are his first-hand testimony on what he calls ‘the biggest, most shameful humanitarian crisis since World War II’. The exhibit also shows marble sculptures and films.

UNTIL 7 DECEMBER FOAM Photography Museum www.foam.org

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MEESTERLIJK In three whole days dedicated to the beauty and ingenuity of Dutch craft and design, product, fashion and food designers – masters and emerging artists alike – come together at the Westergasfabriek to show off their passion and skills, and sell their creations directly to the public. So close to the holidays, the extensive collection of ceramics (Anny &, Marjoke de Heer), glass and crystalware (Albert Seubring, Bibi Smit) and heirloom jewellery crafted by artisan goldsmiths is probably a great bet to do some early Christmas shopping, or simply to find a new cherished piece of wooden furniture, or indulge in unique fashion wares and accessories. The artisans also demonstrate their craft at various workshops.

© RENEN VAN DER HULST

© Jean Tinguely, Meta-mechanische sculptuur zonder titel, 1954. Privécollectie Potsdam. Foto: Christian Baur, c/o Pictoright Amsterdam, 2016.

#SAFEPASSAGE

25-27 NOVEMBER Westergasfabriek www.mesterlijk.nu

follows Tinguely’s complete development, from his early wire sculptures and reliefs mimicking the abstract paintings of artists like Miró, Malevitch and Klee to the wild, dancing installations of scrap metal, trash and discarded garments that garnered him the most recognition.

From the earliest days of his artistic development, Tinguely was fascinated by destruction and decay. Just like his early wood-and-can installations, a great portion of his playful work also contains an aspect of (self-)destruction. That culminates in the closing piece of the exhibition: the monumental Mengele-Totentanz, a dark installation with relics of a devastating fire, such as charred beams, animal skeletons and agricultural machinery. A macabre memento mori. But even here: there is movement.

UNTIL 5 MARCH Stedelijk Museum



Toneelgroep brings Jean Genet’s masterpiece to the stage, directed by rising-star Katie Mitchell – who was touted by the Guardian as ‘the closest thing British theatre has to a genuine author: a director with a strong, uncompromising vision of how theatre should be’.

Strong female roles, plot twists and a socio-political message that hasn’t aged: a bit of British flair is perfect for this adaptation of the dark and powerful novel about two maids who like to play pretend as their wealthy madame so much that they start plotting her murder. (with English surtitles on dates given.)

© JAN VERSWEYVELD

THE MAIDS

15 & 22 DECEMBER Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam www.tga.nl

180amsterdammers.nl

With 180 nationalities calling the city home, Amsterdam breathes diversity. We’ve spoken to residents from all nationalities to discover how they view the city. Read their stories at 180amsterdammers.nl or visit the free exhibition at OBA from 9 December to find out more.

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featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

GERSHWIN GALA The Concertgebouw is treating us to a series of very special performances of illustrious composers Ira and George Gershwin’s opera masterpieces: Rhapsody in Blue, An American in Paris and, of course, Porgy & Bess – the classic tale of love and sorrow with a daring, racially charged theme. The 120-musician Romanian New Symphonic Orchestra, led by conductor Raymond Janssen and accompanied by renowned soloists Janice Dixon (soprano), Derrick Lawrence (baritone) and Antonii Baryshevskyi (piano), will take over the grand stage for an unforgettable rendition of this perfect marriage between classical and jazz, which was first performed in New York City in 1935.

‘You need to be ready for anything’

ARTUR SHESTERIKOV

Until 15 November www.operaballet.nl

SPIRITWALKING The Nederlands Dans Theater invades the Westergasfabriek for an exceptional performance of Spiritwalking, with acclaimed choreography by Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. Based on the native American belief that the soul can depart the body to explore its true being, bathed in memories and emotions, the piece is shown outside of a traditional theatre setting in the Gashouder, a round behemoth building whose brickwork becomes essential to the story.

The performance is scored by exclusive music from Philip Glass, which he composed especially for the piece, and which the NDT is excited to see performed by an all-female string quartet, the Ragazze Kwartet.

8-15 DECEMBER Gashouder, Westergasfabriek www.ndt.nl

AMSTERDAM SALON AT THE AMSTERDAM ART WEEKEND

© ROB BECKER

Born: Soviet Union Talent: Artur followed in his parents' dance steps and graduated from the Perm Ballet School before joining the Tchaikovsky Perm Opera and Ballet Theatre. He accepted a position in the Dutch National Ballet’s corps de ballet in 2007, in spite of the step back it represented from his career in Russia. One of his happiest memories: ‘We were performing Swan Lake in Eindhoven when our director came on stage and announced I had been promoted to soloist. It made me feel like my hard work and sacrifice had paid off.’

His most surprising challenge was the difference in repertoire: ‘In Perm, we had mostly done classical ballet. But in Amsterdam, one month we do Swan Lake, the next we do something contemporary.’ Shesterikov has danced a huge variety of choreographies by such illustrious names as George Balanchine, William Forsythe, Benjamin Millepied and Hans Van Manen.

In September, he received the Alexandra Radius award, presented by the former prima ballerina herself: ‘Artur is both a danseur noble and one of the cornerstones of the Dutch National Ballet – a likeable and modest person.’ This season, Shesterikov will appear as Solor in the Dutch National Ballet’s production of La Bayadère.

13, 17, 20 NOVEMBER Concertgebouw www.gershwingala.nl

Amsterdam Salon teams up with the fifth edition of Amsterdam Art Weekend, which uses the city as a stage for top-notch contemporary art. The Salon is organising a special guided tour through the Jordaan neighborhood to visit a diverse range of galleries showcasing bold and inspiring work from talented artists. A chance to meet other internationals and share ideas, this tour is especially designed for Amsterdam Salon members.

After the tour, drinks and plenty of snacks will be served at the Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam.

25 NOVEMBER Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam www.amsterdamsalon.org

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Marilyn Monroe Happy birthday, Ms Monroe text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

T The Neverending Story

Amsterdam’s soaring storytelling scene text Elysia Brenner

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e don't attract large crowds,’ begins Marlies ter Haar, co-founder of the International Storytelling Festival.

‘It's kind of a small jewel.’ A small jewel that is gradually, almost stealthily developing into a sparkling highlight of the Amsterdam crown: beginning nine years ago as a small weekend event, the festival now spans nine days, attracting more than 2,000 attendees to venues across the city.

‘A lot of people think storytelling is just for children,’ says Ter Haar. But the stories you’ll hear during the festival range from intimate personal tales to epic legends. Peter Chand mixes traditional South Asian stories with modern DJ sets, Arabi Ghibeh shares his recent harrowing journey from Syria, and much more.

Just don’t expect any of the trappings of the usual theatre experience: ‘There's hardly any lighting or sound effects or props. But with a good story, you create the images yourself,’ Ter Haar explains, adding: ‘You have to experience it to understand – and experience a really good storyteller.’

Iranian-Dutch Sahand Sahebdivani of the Amsterdam storytelling and music phenomenon known as Mezrab is one of those ‘really good storytellers’, but he’s aware that he needs to overcome expectations: ‘People who don’t know storytelling, the first time they see you, they’re a bit…hesitant. “So, what are you? Are you a comedian?

Well, you’re not funny.”’ Actually, his stories are frequently funny – but also moving and eye-opening. See for yourself when he and his Mezrab Storytelling School partner Raphael Rodan discuss ‘what it means to be a man’ during the festival – and at the regular events at Mezrab.

However, Sahebdivani doesn’t attribute the success of Mezrab to his skills: ‘The first tipping point, in this city that has all the cultures but where they don’t necessarily come together, is that here they do.’

Not only is he bringing people together, but he’s inspiring them to tell their own stories.

UNTIL 6 NOVEMBER www.storytellingfestival.nl REGULAR EVENTS www.mezrab.nl

he iconic actress with the blonde locks and smouldering blue stare would be 90 years old today, and the Nieuwe Kerk is showcasing a rare and extensive collection of her personal effects, including many beautiful pictures of the sex symbol (who didn’t need Photoshop to set unreasonable beauty standards), not only from her years in the spotlight but also from earlier, more innocent days.

The travelling exhibition focuses especially on the more personal aspects of the curvaceous actress’s life: drawn from Ted Stampfer’s personal collection, who purchased many of Marilyn’s belongings at auction when they finally became available 37 years after her death, the objects range from famous articles of clothing (such as the infamous white dress from The Seven Year Itch) to accessories, letters and documents.

While it’s a unique chance for adoring fans to delve into the private universe of the star, it is also a stark and sad reminder that her tumultuous life wasn’t

as glamorous as we’d like to imagine. Her childhood was marred by her mother’s mental illness and abuse suffered in foster homes. A notoriously hardworking, intelligent and witty young woman, she rose to fame while navigating the Hollywood jungle, where she was often typecast as the dumb blonde ornament. As costar Laurence Olivier put it, ‘she was the victim of ballyhoo and sensation’, enduring her marriages and alleged affairs with costars and presidents unfurling under public scrutiny, while suffering crippling bouts of anxiety and depression.

If the Nieuwe Kerk exhibition reveals many of these intimate layers from the idol’s life, it also sometimes trespasses onto way-too-private property: the strands of hair still wrapped around her curlers, her doctors’ prescriptions – maybe, for her birthday, we should finally let her rest in peace.

UNTIL 5 FEBRUARY Nieuwe Kerk, Gravenstraat 17 www.nieuwekerk.nl

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THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

German-born Beatrix Ruf explains why, after two short years, Amsterdam already feels like home and how exciting it is to be at the helm of the Stedelijk Museum, one of the city’s most revered art institutions. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé photo Robin de Puy

‘Amsterdammers consider culture part of their life’ 1. DID YOU KNOW AMSTERDAM WELL BEFORE YOU BECAME DIRECTOR OF THE STEDELIJK TWO YEARS AGO? I'd been here many times before, and Amsterdam has always been on my professional map. While I worked at the Kunsthal in Zurich, we not only often collaborated with the Stedelijk, but I also had an eye on the great post-graduate programmes at the Rijksakademie and the Ateliers.

2. WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM? I’ve always been one of the Stedelijk’s biggest fans. It is such an honour for me to work for a museum that is so deeply rooted in the collective memory of the people – not only from Amsterdam, but from all over the world.

It’s a real institution that people not only look at but look up to.

3. WHAT DIRECTION IS THE MUSEUM TAKING WITH YOU AT THE HELM? Our first, immediate project was

to offer a strong presence to contemporary artists. While the collection is central to the museum, it is very special to present it together with emerging artists such as Magali Reus or Jon Rafman. We even dedicated a whole year to the live art of Tino Sehgal. It creates a dialogue between history and the time we’re living in. That, to me, is the DNA of the Stedelijk.

4. ANY EXCITING UPCOMING PROJECTS? At the moment we are showing a monumental exhibition of Jean Tinguely’s work. It’s very meaningful to us because he was so influential with the museum early on in his career, in the 1960s. He was given carte blanche to do whatever he wanted, which is very typical of the Stedelijk’s spirit. At the end of November, during Amsterdam Art Weekend, we’ll present Jordan Wolfson’s work. His spectacular animatronics that explore the capturing of movement as well as the digitalization of society will be amazing to see in parallel with

Tinguely.

5. HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT AMSTERDAM’S CULTURAL SCENE? It’s a very active and cultural city in so many domains, from arts to the theatre and even cuisine.

There’s a deep-rooted attitude of curiosity and adventurous endeavours. The city is developing in all directions – North, South, West – and I like the experimental, grassroots spirit.

People actively participate and the public is very engaged – Amsterdammers consider culture as part of their lives, their family lives.

6. REALLY, THE CUISINE? People always complain about the food in the Netherlands, but what I find really amazing at the moment is that there’s an incredibly active scene for new restaurants, trying out new kitchens and new chefs.

7. WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITES? The list is too long, but I love the concept of pop-up restaurants.

De School in BoLo has a fantastic kitchen. The Marineterrein always has great spots too.

8. WHAT ABOUT CULTURALINSTITUTIONS? I love our neighbours, obviously – the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Concertgebouw, but there are a lot of independent places that are really starting to grow, such as De Appel Art Center. These are very important to connect the city with younger generations.

9. IF YOU HAD ONE COMPLAINT… Mopeds on bike lanes! Something needs to be done about this.

10. SO, IS AMSTERDAM HOME TO YOU? Definitely. I really enjoy working with the Stedelijk, so I’m planning on staying as long as possible. And just like all the major institutions recently finished all their beautiful renovations, I just finished those on my house! www.stedelijk.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time

Stranger than fiction

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Gear up for the 29th edition of the International Documentary Film Festival, the biggest non-fiction film festival in the world. text Bregtje Schudel

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16-27 NOVEMBER Various locations www.idfa.nl

his year’s guest of honour is the Ukranian documentary and feature filmmaker Sergei Loznitsa, who – as is customary – will select his own favourite documentaries. There will also be a screening of his latest film, Austerlitz, which premiered at the Venice Film Festival. Shot in black and white, from fixed camera positions, Austerlitz ‘just’ observes the visitors of former Nazi concentration camps in Dachau and Sachenhausen, who might just as well have been visiting a museum or a zoo, the way most of them are ambling about and making selfies for posterity in front of the ‘Arbeit macht frei’ entrance gates.

Of course, no IDFA edition is ever complete without a selection of this year’s best music documentaries – in collaboration with the Melkweg. This year, dive into honky-tonk country-music heaven, go heavy

with the most successful rock band in Japanese history, X Japan, or delve into the curious (and colourful) world of the national colour guard – brought to you by David Byrne. Jim Jarmusch returns to non-fiction film with Gimme Danger on the legendary Iggy Pop punk band The Stooges.

Art lovers can sit down for Mapplethorpe: Look at the Pictures, a biopic on Robert Mapplethorpe, artistic photographer of flowers and fistfucking (amongst others things), for whom being ‘famous’ and being ‘infamous’ was basically the same thing.

IN ALL SERIOUSNESS Don’t miss the opportunity to watch the brilliant five-part documentary series O.J.: Made in America, shown as a whole on 19 November at De Kleine Komedie and followed by a Q&A with the director. A seven-

and-a-half-hour documentary about the rise and fall of O.J. Simpson that puts his infamous murder trial in a whole new perspective.

Want even more perspective?

How about Shadow World, about the many-tentacled siren that is the global arms trade?

Or Burning Out, about the goings-on in the surgery department of a big Parisian hospital, where everyone’s overbooked, overworked and extremely unhappy. The ending of Machines – an insider’s look at a textile factory in India – may pack the biggest punch. The factory workers have become wary of all the missionaries who’ve come to record their tales of woe. What’s the use? One of them addresses the camera directly. Yes, they’re being exploited. But who’s going to help them? You? Or are you simply going to leave, just like everyone else?

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highlight Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

International Queer and Migrant Film Festival

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hat do migrants and people from the LGBTQ community have in common?

More than you probably realise, according to the International Queer and Migrant Film Festival. ‘Too often it’s taken as a given that the LGBTQ and migrant communities are on opposing sides,’ says Chris Meloni, founder and director of the festival, which will start its second edition this December. ‘That wherever there’s migration, there is homophobia. But things are much more complicated than that.’ A lot of the time they are in the same boat, metaphorically speaking. ‘You can’t talk about homophobia without also talking about Islamophobia.’ That’s also why the festival is programmed around 10 December, the International Day of Human Rights. ‘Human rights are also LGBTQ rights,’ Meloni stresses.

Last year’s edition looked at migration streams from the Middle East to Europe, but migration is far from a Eurocentric phenomenon. That’s why this year’s main focus will be on Latin America.

‘Recent political developments make for a very unstable climate, which leads to oppression and migration,’ says Meloni. ‘Look at Brazil, where the recent president has just been impeached.

São Paulo plays host to the biggest gay pride event in the world, but has also seen some of the most vicious murders of transgender men and women.’

One of the debates during the festival will be about social acceptance of the LGBTQ community in Brazil; another will be about LGBTQ-phobia and Islamophobia. New this year will be an IQMF Academy, a three-day workshop for 15 young, international queer and migrant filmmakers.

7 -11 DECEMBER De Balie www.iqmf.nl

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nightlife essentials the swing back into Santa's sack. The acclaimed jazz ensemble hands over the mic to acclaimed singer Roberta GamThe choir and the saxophone barini, while trumpeter Roy quartet present the world pre- Hargove adds extra flair to their big-band sound. miere of the latest work by 12 December the successful US composer Concertgebouw, and artist Lera Auerbach. InConcertgebouwplein 10 spired by the Kabbalah, 72 Angels is a set of 72 one-min- www.concertgebouw.nl ute choral preludes – one for MUSEUMNACHT each angel from the mystical tradition. Auerbach combines Each November, more than 50 classical composition with folk museums in Amsterdam open their doors from 19:00 to 2:00 elements, her new composito allow visitors to see Amstertion the result of years of dam’s museums in a completely work. new light – after dark! Look out 2 November for special events, including Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ, Piet workshops, concerts, special Heinkade 1  tours and performances, as well www.muziekgebouw.nl as tasty food and drinks to help you keep your energy levels up.

ANGEL OLSEN Angel Olsen made her debut Soak up the culture, try somein 2011 as a singer-songwriter thing new and be sure to buy tickets in advance. of sad folk songs, sounding 5 November immediately enchanting if Various locations somewhat reserved on tape.

Come 2014, with a full band, www.museumnacht.amsterdam her sound became more powerful and the pop hooks a lit- AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL tle sharper, while still maintaining a lo-fi edge. Now, with The Amsterdam Light Festival new album My Woman, she’s returns to Amsterdam this festive season, (literally) putting blown it all apart with some the beautiful city centre and its serious tempestuousness, keeping her 'girl with a guitar' canals in the limelight. style at the heart of her songs, 1 December-22 January Various locations but also reflecting flashes of www.amsterdamlightfestival.com R&B and Motown and offering up dashes of pop lyricism LOVEDANCE that'll loop in your head.

Helping to raise both money 6 November and awareness with a loud, colTollhuistuin, IJPromenade 2 ourful and fun approach to a sewww.tollhuistuin.nl rious issue, Lovedance always features a huge and varied lineJEAN-MICHEL JARRE up of artists, musicians, bands, French composer and music DJs, dancers and performers. producer Jean-Michel Jarre was one of the main pioneers 1 December of the electronic and ambient Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8  www.lovedance.nl music movement. Since the '70s, the artist has released 20 studio albums and has gained VALHALLA The best and brightest electrona reputation for his involved, flashy live shows, often incor- ic dance initiatives in Amsterporating lasers and projectors dam team up to host a night (and a long one at that) filled into his sets. with the biggest names in 22 November dance music – and installations, Heineken Music Hall, ArenA dancers and costumes that Boulevard 590 promise a ride into a bizarre www.heineken-music-hall.nl fantasy world. Expect an extenCHRISTMAS CONCERT: sive variety of musical styles, JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF from disco to deep house and from techno to club house.

THE CONCERTGE17 December BOUW The annual Christmas concert RAI, Europaplein with the Jazz Orchestra of the www.valhallafestival.nl Concertgebouw always puts

NETHERLANDS CHAMBER CHOIR & RASCHÈR SAXOPHONE QUARTET

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM HOME TO 835,000 HUMAN BEINGS AND A GAZILLION MICROBES THE ONLY MICROBE MUSEUM IN THE WORLD

nov & dec 2016

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC

'IT'S SO SURPRISING HOW QUIET AND PEACEFUL AMSTERDAM IS – NO DEAFENING SIRENS LIKE IN LONDON!'

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: BOLO AND DE BAARSJES EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS COLUMN WHAT’S IN STORE

WINTERPARADE Much like the medieval feasts of centuries gone by, the Winterparade takes over the Zuiderkerk from 21 to 30 December with its 120-metre-long banquet-style table, upon which stroll a parade of performers. Dance, music, theatre, acrobatics, poetry – the minstrels are plenty and the mood festive. For many acts, the language barrier should not impair the fun (such as Yorick Heerkens’ choir or the virtuoso violin duo); you only risk seeing your bread stomped on. Of course it wouldn’t be a feast without vats of mulled wine and beer, and a lavish abundance of foods – catered by De Nieuwe Garde. Chefs and waitresses also parade on the tables, along with a cohort of Candy Girls, and the night ends with disco dancing. It’s Christmas…but definitely not a silent night.

20,21 DECEMBER (TRY-OUTS) 22, 25-30 DECEMBER Zuiderkerk www.winterparade.nl

© MARJOLIJN VAN DIJK

Traveller Tamica Mignott feels we should be making a lot more noise

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Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

BOS EN LOMMER & DE BAARSJES

MAARTJE RODENHUIS, 24 with her boyfriend Hidde Fafiani

’I’ve lived here four years and I love it. It’s developed a lot in the past year and it’s become much safer, and there are so many more opportunities to go out, from cafés and restaurants to really cool pop-up or concept shops.’

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Gentrification and urban rehabilitation are steamrolling through De Baarsjes and Bos en Lommer, where community and diversity meet a vibrant cultural rebirth. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

Take a walk on the west side

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s the tentacles of Amsterdam’s centre spread to newer neighbourhoods such as Oost and Oud-West, their outlying cousins gain popularity as well. At first glance, De Baarsjes and Bos en Lommer are nothing to write home about; mostly residential, their shopping and entertainment options appear few and far between, and both districts miss the charm of the historical centre, with architectural styles that seem mostly geared towards pragmatism, marked by wide blocks of row-housing development.

However, they are also the perfect example of why we should never judge a book by its cover. There’s a reason why Bos en Lommer suddenly got a hip new nickname (‘BoLo’) – a surefire sign that it’s leaving its wretched reputation behind and becoming a new locals’ favourite at lightning speed. When you scratch at the surface and really explore these newer neighbourhoods of the city, many surprises await.

MELTING POTS The great thing about Amsterdam is its human size; not only do many tram lines criss-cross the area, but BoLo and De Baarsjes, abutting Oud-West, are actually much closer to the centre than they appear –

walking distance, really, especially on a nice day. Like most of Amsterdam’s outlying areas, the history of these two Nieuw-West kids is the same old, same old: in the early 20th century, urban expansion encroached on rural land to provide housing for the city’s booming working population.

Bos en Lommer actually translates to ‘Forest and Shade’ – a lovely name that’s, let’s be honest, quite misleading today, referring to the old farm that used to stand on what is now the area’s central square, Bos en Lommerplein. Part of the neighbourhood was a test run for the Westelijke Tuinsteden (‘Western Garden Towns’), a modern urban-planning take on Amsterdam that today makes up most of the Nieuw-West.

Its western-most side was developed after World War II as camps for displaced refugees. In the same vein, De Baarsjes was created as part of famous architect HP Berlage’s idealistic ‘Plan West’. Both 'hoods, therefore, have a long tradition of welcoming immigrants and fostering vibrant melting-pot communities, a quality they have embraced until today: Bos en Lommer is still home to 127 of the 180 different nationalities represented in Amsterdam. Manuel Oostveen, who just opened his bread outlet and tosti bar Tweede Jeugd on

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Trendy concept stores, Turkish shops, greengrocers and bakeries sit side by side in perfect harmony Jan Evertsenstraat, loves the variety: ‘It’s interesting to see people from so many different social and cultural origins, all getting along and going about their business in such a bustling area.’

ARCHITECTURAL TREASURES The neighbourhoods’ unexpected popularity with families, students and internationals – partly explained by cheaper rents but also, non-negligibly, by a dynamic and community-oriented spirit – is so great that they receive national funding for the improvement of infrastructures and liveability. The result is intelligent, pleasant city planning that, even in these densely residential areas, respects their vast green expanses. Expanses such as Erasmuspark and especially Rembrandtpark, which is just as large but much quieter than the famous Vondelpark, boasting ponds, bike paths, playgrounds and one of the oldest petting zoos in the city.

Around these, many of the new developments show promise: the Collage complex won a major architecture prize, and the residential complex Nieuwe Akbar won an award for its reuse of an old building.

But it’s not all ‘out with the old, in with the new’ – renovations over the past two decades have also enhanced and highlighted the hidden historical architectural treasures peppered through the area, many of which flaunt the signature of the Amsterdamse School. A walk along Jan Evertsenstraat or Hoofdweg, for example, reveals many of the typical rounded facades with intricate details and brickwork. The tower of Mercatorplein, designed by Berlage himself, was also rebuilt in 1998 as part of the area’s overhaul, which has focused on not only beautifying but also revitalising the neighbourhood with bustling outdoor markets, awesome ethnic grocers

PODIUM MOZAÏEK With a programme of world music, theatre, cabaret and dance, Podium Mozaïek celebrates cultural diversity in 1001 ways. In November, they’re taking part in the International Storytelling Festival, and just before the New Year, their theatre turns into a club with special guests Diggy Dex and Leeways. With a short but sweet menu, the theatre café’s fare is fresh and delicious (the warm brownie with a tangy raspberry sauce is simply to die for), and during the weekends, it serves a traditional Turkish breakfast from 10 am until 3 pm.

Bos en Lommerweg 191 www.podiummozaiek.nl

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KESBEKE Who knew that pickling could be a family passion? Kesbeke is the one-and-only pickler of truly authentic Amsterdam pickles. You won’t find better gherkins, pickled onions or piccalilli (or pickling vinegar for that matter) anywhere else in the city. If perfectly sour crunchiness isn’t incentive enough, Kesbeke is very involved with charities from cancer research to war-zone children, so your purchase is also good for the heart.

Adolf van Nassaustraat 2-8 www.kesbeke.nl

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HET HUYSRAAT

BAR BAARSCH

Het Huysraat, hidden away on a quiet street in De Baarsjes, is one of the most beautiful Scandinavian designer furniture, lighting and accessories shops in the city. Between the Amp lamps, Muuto sofas and Hay rugs, you may just want to bypass shopping and simply move in – especially as the staff is really friendly and will help you to a cup of coffee while you browse their exquisite selection.

Like many of Amsterdam’s staple brown cafés, Bar Baasch is super cosy and atmospheric, but with a special touch: their charcoal-grilled fish and meat. To fit everybody’s taste, it’s got several different sections: the wide terrace on the street, tables by the bright windows and a lounge with an intimate flair.

Test your grey cells at their pub quiz every Monday, and taste their famous gin and tonics every Thursday.

Witte de Withstraat 182HS www.hethuysraat.nl

Jan Evertsenstraat 91 www.barbaarsch.nl

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neighbourhood watch

THINGS I LIKE, THINGS I LOVE Heaven on earth for lovers of new and vintage clothing and trendy accessories, this little shop of wonders also carries jewellery, home décor and plants galore. Their selection includes must-haves as well as unique items you never knew you needed but now can’t live without, such as delicate lace-button tops, striped leggings and Batik suits, or brass crocodile paper weights. Something to like and love for everyone.

Jan Evertsenstraat 106 www.thingsilikethingsilove.com

DE SCHOOL This recently opened initiative, which holds one of the rare 24-hour licenses of the city, caters to all your entertainment needs. The fast-rising star is the club/concert space with its trendy but unaffected programming. They also have a spacious, airy café, and the restaurant’s world-inspired kitchen is absolutely fabulous. You can also use their authentic 1960s gym hall to lose a few of the calories you’re bound to acquire with the €49 seven-course menu.

Dr. Jan van Breemenstraat 1 www.deschoolamsterdam.nl

WILDE WESTEN AMSTERDAM Discreetly located in the basement of the ugly, modern development Oude Gak, Wilde Westen is a secret gem: one of the best foodie hangouts in BoLo, with a delicious menu of breakfasts, sandwiches, salads and tasty wood-fired pizzas – the last of which are available at a discount on Mondays and Thursdays. The staff is super friendly, their communal table allows you to work quietly or socialise with your neighbour and they have a row of washing machines (!) in case you need to run a quick load of laundry between two cocktails.

Bos en Lommerplantsoen 1 www.wilde-westen.nl

While it’s got a great Italian kitchen, the best reason to trek to Fossa is that the café is located on a barge on the peaceful Erasmusgracht.

There’s nothing like enjoying a fresh platter of sauce-laden pasta right at water level, admiring the swans and passing boats from their spacious (and heated in the winter) terrace – or, if you can’t score a prized table outside, from behind their giant bay windows. A very romantic spot that serves kebabs skewered on brass daggers – what else do you need?

Bos en Lommerplantsoen 10 www.grandcafefossa.nl

© STUDIO VALKENIER

GRAND CAFÉ FOSSA

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and newly established franchises from popular chain stores, just like on Bos en Lommerplein.

TAMICA MIGNOTT, 25 Travelling

‘I only just arrived today from London, and it’s so surprising to me how quiet and peaceful it is. The people are so nice and helpful, and they all speak English – I love it!’

GLENN BUNSEE, 56 Retired

‘Mercatorplein has become beautiful since the renovations. I live in Oost, but I come here several times a week just to hang out with my friends, because the atmosphere is so relaxed and friendly.’

WOW WOW’s low ceilings and lighting may give it an underground-parking-garage feel, but the huge complex combines a hostel with an artist-in-residency programme for 50 young creatives from Amsterdam's art institutes.

But that’s not all: its rich cultural agenda and affordable restaurant mean that visitors, Amsterdammers and artists can convene and converse at exhibitions, performances and workshops.

Wiltzanghlaan 60 www.wow-amsterdam.nl

URBAN CULTURE This process of urban renewal and gentrification infused these neighbourhood with new life, in a colourful marriage that respects their multicultural heritage while also catering to the city’s intrinsic demand for alternative culture. While BoLo and De Baarsjes are still far from being fashion central, they’ve become hosts to many festivals, lively street markets and outdoor events.

Concept cafés, specialised or upmarket restaurants and cultural hotspots have been popping up all over the place. Local residents don’t have to hop on public transportation for their daily dose of social entertainment anymore. They can get their French food at Café Pistou, play board games while enjoying locally sourced fare with their neighbours at Café Van de Buurt (literally ‘From the Neighbourhood’) or eat peacefully alone at pop-up concept restaurant Eenmaal (‘Once’).

While Jan Evertsenstraat (or simply, ‘Jan Eef’) is a new favourite shopping destination where trendy concept stores, Turkish shops, greengrocers and bakeries sit side by

side in perfect harmony, Witte de Withstraat is an essential stop for any art gallery aficionado. Bos en Lommerweg sports plenty of its own flair with multicultural Mecca Podium Mozaïek, which, located in a former church, gives the neighbourhood some social soul. New hip establishments are attracted by the active ‘cultural breeding ground’ policies, such as De School, a new club, music venue, restaurant, café, gym and exhibition space that boasts one of the city’s few 24-hour licenses, as well as WOW, a building that hosts artists in residence, a restaurant and cultural events. These new-generation hotspots, such as Het Sieraard, Lola Luid and Meneer de Wit, wear as many hats as possible to appeal to the young creative crowds and to foster community projects – why go anywhere else when you can find it all under one fabulous roof, sharing it with your neighbours?

De Baarsjes and BoLo may have lackluster pasts, but they’re prime examples of the magic that urban renewal and cultural initiatives can accomplish. A bustling tapestry of young families, immigrants and creatives, with an energetic city life peppered by peaceful green oases, Amsterdam's West is thriving and becoming well worth the detour.

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

eating out

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Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers 

text Karin Engelbrecht

‘It was time to spice things up,’ explains former MasterChef Holland judge Peter Lute, whose eponymous restaurant had been a fixture on the local food scene for 14 years. The clue’s in the new name, which translates as ‘the herb factory’ in Dutch, but is also a nod to a former life as part of an 18th-century gunpowder factory (or kruitfabriek) off the banks of the river Amstel. It’s a happy coincidence, then, that herbs have never been hipper, and here the cooking explodes with flavour thanks to the aromatics now grown in the obligatory on-site greenhouse and garden.

The ‘sole meunière 2.0’ with beurre noisette, duxelles, deepfried parsley, peppery nasturtium leaf and tangy wood sorrel (€20) is a souped-up blast from the classically trained chef ’s past, while a five-course vegetarian menu (€45) brings things bang up to date. Also on the menu is a nose-to-tail exploration of dual-purpose beef, with well-marbled meat from former dairy cows, served with beet, shallots and a jus made from the bones, tail and other unloved bits.

Meanwhile, the ‘herb pizza’ with tuna tataki and enoki mushrooms (€15) and the ‘chocolate garden’ dessert with gianduja and basil-yoghurt sorbet (€10) are excellent examples of the relaunched restaurant’s ‘fresher, more daring’ new approach.

De Oude Molen 5 (Amstelveen) www.dekruidfabriek.nl

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DE KRUIDFABRIEK

NEW

41 trendy PENDERGAST SMOKEHOUSE Hip Westerpark is home to Amsterdam’s best brisket and rave-worthy ribs, slow-smoked over Dutch fruit wood by Kansas City-born cook Brandon Woodruff. In a city known for its expensive eats, ‘The Spread’ – a trio of mains with three sides, cornbread and a selection of homemade pickles and sauces – is excellent value for money at €55 (serves two to three eaters).

Groen van Prinstererstraat 14 www.pendergast.nl

critic’s choice CHOUX

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he people behind popular pop-ups Felix and Foyer have found a permanent fixture at a former factory in Oosterdok, where a bright red façade and staircase are the eye-catchers in an otherwise basic industrial interior. What remains is chef Merijn van Berlo’s inventive plant-led plates, which pair mismatched ingredients to create a (mostly) happy marriage that typically delivers on taste, but sometimes comprises too many elements. However, for such a centrally located restaurant, it’s affordable by Amsterdam standards (from €33 for a three-course menu), with reasonably priced vin naturel wines and of-the-moment cooking that’ll please flesh fans and veggie lovers alike.

De Ruyterkade 128 www.choux.nl

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classic GEBR. HARTERING

quick & simple BAYU Bayu Basuki Barni brings the flavours of his native Surabaya to his Indonesian toko, where modern design meets folkloric flair. With only a few tables, the focus is on takeaway, with traditional dishes such as gado gado and chicken satay sitting alongside experimental interpretations like rendang quiche (meals from €7.50).

Haarlemmerdijk 135C www.sites.google.com/site/bayufoodartindonesiandelimore

The Hartering brothers’ nouveau-rustic approach ruffled a few fine-dining feathers back when the restaurant launched in 2010, but quickly won over local foodies with unfussy à la carte hits, such as rosemary-covered roasted bone marrow served with crusty bread and puréed garlic (€15), classic côte de bœuf (€39 per person sharing) and an impeccable cheese plate (€15).

There’s also an unpretentious five-course chef’s menu (€55) inspired by the seasons.

Peperstraat 10-hs www.gebr-hartering.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

on the menu

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste text Karin Engelbrecht

Dutch winter treats fireside favourites © PETER VALCKX

christmas markets

METROPOLITAN

PLLEK

Satisfy sweet late-night cravings at this ‘pastry room’, where you’ll find the best hot chocolate in town, hands-down. Chocolatier Kees Raat roasts the organic, raw trinitario cacao beans, from small-scale Dominican plantations, in house before making his renowned bean-to-bar chocolate.

This self-proclaimed ‘creative hang-out’ and organic restaurant has that slapdash charm that’s become a Noord trademark. Constructed from recycled shipping containers, there’s a popular pebble beach and picnic tables in summertime, but the cosy fireplace draws you in on cooler days. The breathtaking panorama of the IJ and cityside remains unchanged year round.

Warmoesstraat 135 www.metropolitandeli.nl

HARTOG’S VOLKOREN BAKKERIJ & MAALDERIJ What started as a small family bakery in 1896 with a production capacity of 12 breads has become a prize-winning artisan bakery, which mills its own flour and uses no additives or preservatives. Join the queue to sample those famous wholewheat oliebollen with a seasonal snowfall of icing sugar.

Ruyschstraat 68 www.volkorenbrood.nl

VAN SOEST The 16th-century Sinterklaas tradition of giving loved ones a letter representing the first initial of their name is still alive today. Chef-Chocolatier Franny Blauwendraat-Van Soest makes handsome hand-crafted letters and figurines from chocolate and marzipan, as well as chocolate-covered kruidnoten and Christmas-themed chocolates.

Utrechtsestraat 143 www.vansoest-amsterdam.nl

TT Neveritaweg 59 www.pllek.nl

THE COLLEGE HOTEL LOUNGE & BAR Set in a restored 19th-century school in the moneyed Museum District, The College Hotel continues the tradition of developing talent as a training centre for horeca students. But with comfortable armchairs in a warmly hued décor with plenty of intimate corners, classic cocktails and a roaring fireplace, this is no ordinary day in class.

FUNKY XMAS MARKET Find the perfect present – a bicycle-emblazoned baby tee, locally made leather handbag, handmade soap or an artisan wood cutting board – at the lively Westergasfabriek on 11 December.

There’s also live music and food trucks with local and international delicacies, such as pulled-pork waffles, banh mi or bacon-maple donuts.

Westergasfabriek www.sundaymarket.nl

PURE MARKT WINTER For the winter editions of the travelling Sunday market, head to Amstelpark (11 December) and Frankendael Park (18 December). With over 100 stands, the offerings typically include locally crafted jewellery, knitted toys, jars of handmade caramel, jam and local mustard, hip retro cushions and plenty of food and refreshments. www.puremarkt.nl

Roelof Hartstraat 1 www.thecollegehotel.com

NEIGHBOURFOOD & FLEA MARKET

LION NOIR

Amsterdam’s finest artisan food producers come together every third Sunday of the month at the Westergasfabriek, and on 3-4 December and 17-18 December to trade fusion dumplings, chai cupcakes, designer burgers and pad thai satay. Or shop the indoor flea market for vintage gifts: from tableware and trinkets to clothing, accessories, vinyl and more.

An Interior Design of the Year award was a (peacock?) feather in the cap of this ode to the extraordinary in the Canal District. There’s a proud peacock perched over the fireplace along with plenty of other witty taxidermy touches. The food’s fittingly eclectic – with flavours from almost every continent – and the location’s conveniently central.

Reguliersdwarsstraat 28 www.lionnoir.nl

www.neighbourfood.nl

t: De Kra ers bscrib u s w e N o irst tw f f f o 10% boxes

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Marley Spo on: €25 discou nt on your first o rder with AMAG 25

HOME DELIVERY SERVICES easy winter delights

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zar: Baltha first 10% off order 016 AMag2

hether you find it’s too cold to venture out of your house or hotel room, or you want to indulge in some effortless Christmas shopping, there is a huge variety of home-delivery services that will bring even the most unexpected goodies right to your doorstep.

If you’re out of cooking inspiration, De Krat brings farm-fresh groceries and even original recipes directly to you. In the same vein, Marley Spoon offers weekly subscriptions (from €36) that let you explore culinary curiosities with seasonal ingredients and recipes from guest chefs. If all you want is to wait for spring with a good bottle, Balthazar works directly with producers to bring you three handpicked wines (€33 monthly).

You can also discover treats inspired by local flavours with six options

(€34.95-69.95) from Amsterdam Box: host a craft-beer happy hour, DIY cocktails or gift one to a foodie friend. To liven up your holiday dinners or brighten up dreary days with colourful bouquets of freshly cut, seasonal flowers, Bloomon will deliver them weekly right to your doorstep (€17.95). And if you can’t fathom braving the crowds to get that new outfit, men’s fashion is made easy with a personal stylist from House of Einstein. Eco-conscious? Try their new duurzame box, featuring sustainable fashion brands. www.amsterdambox.com www.baltazar.nl www.bloomon.nl www.dekrat.nl www.houseofeinstein.nl www.marleyspoon.nl text Lily Heaton

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card text Karin Engelbrecht

NATAN

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NEW IN TOWN

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he high-fashion house opened its first store outside Belgium on Amsterdam’s most exclusive shopping street this autumn.

While the interior had to be rigorously renovated, the slim façade had the ‘familiar feel of the mother couture house in Brussels’. The result is an attractive amalgam of wood and stone, with an ‘intimate ‘50s

couture allure, a highpoint in the history of couture’, according to Couturier Edouard Vermeulen, who also designed the décor, a throwback to his training as an interior designer.

Known for its elegant designs with pure lines, exclusive fabrics and refined details, beloved of Dutch and Belgian royalty alike, the luxury brand was previously only available to Amsterdam shoppers via

multi-brand shops. With the new flagship store, they’ll now have access to all the readyto-wear collections, as well as the handmade ‘Belgian collection’ and a few pieces from the couture line.

P.C. Hooftstraat 23 www.natan.be

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artsy X BANK

yummy

HAREWOOD BAKERY Made with brioche dough that’s left to rise overnight, Kim Hasebos’s artisan doughnuts (from €3) are light, fluffy, surprisingly nongreasy and an excellent partner to premium coffee from Stooker Roasting Company. The filled doughnut flavours change regularly, but at our last visit included a zesty lemon curd-blackberry, creamy dreamy crème brûlée and child-friendly chocolate-peanut butter. It’s earned Hasebos such a devoted following that she’s often sold out before lunchtime, so get there early!

Claiming to be the ‘epicentre of Dutch design’ with ‘the most comprehensive collection of Dutch fashion, art, and design in the world’, the 700m2 concept store at the W Amsterdam certainly houses an impressive line-up of 180 local labels: from upcoming artists to premium fashion brands and influential furniture designers. Think Roderick Vos homeware, Lola & Lou lingerie, Ink Inklusive denim and Daphny Raes leather. There’s also a downstairs gallery with art exhibitions and workshops.

Spuistraat 172 www.xbank.amsterdam

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Albert Cuypstraat 62-O www.harewoodbakery.nl

shiny ESSENTIEL This Antwerp-based fashion brand recently opened its second store in the city this year, with plenty of room for the men’s collection upstairs, too. Originally launched as a T-shirt label, today the colourful collection is anything but basic, with women’s sequined sweaters (€245), metallic coats (€495) and crystalembellished bags (€135), as well as men’s faux-fur-lined parkas (€895) and botanical print slim-fit shirts (€135). But the passion for quality and wearability remains.

Utrechtsestraat 145

www.essentiel-antwerp.com

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NOW Available in the I amsterdam Store Amsterdam CS, IJ-zijde

GIFTS DESIGN AND GADGETS LIVING #iamsterdamstore

PART III

47

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN

I Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

never thought this day would come, but I’m ecstatic to report: the US presidential campaign is finally nearing its end.

Although I live almost half a world away from that ground zero of never-ending coverage, debates, promises and ‘scandals’ that have possessed my home country for almost two years, there’s no escaping. I’ve done my best, but even here, my Amsterdam friends constantly ask if I think The Donald actually has a chance, as if by nature of my birthplace I’m an expert on the insanities of this world.

The Dutch have not been immune to the election spectacle. For sure the US and the Netherlands have important historical ties, but the fascination is more visceral. Journalist Marc Chavannes tells me the Dutch always follow the US presidential elections, which are ‘easy, at least superficially, clear-cut, world-deciding and made for TV.’ But, he adds, ‘We follow the US presidential election like soccer: we don’t bother with the details.’ The addition of Trump has made this year’s campaign must-see TV. ‘The fear factor is enormous,’ says Chavannes.

Author Viktor Frölke throws in the ‘love-hate relationship’ the Dutch have with Americans.

‘Secretly, we covet their brashness. We want to be brash but we can’t. We’re too small,’ he says.

‘The American experiment in democracy is fascinating. Holland is boring. We need more America!’

I, on the other hand, have had enough. But come November 8, I will tune in to the one election event I’ve been waiting for: the reckoning. And I won’t be doing it alone. The city hosts a slew of all-night extravaganzas that stream the results live. The Amsterdam American Business Club’s near the Leidseplein comes complete with American nibbles, drinks and a VJ. The Melkweg plays host to its fourth President's Night & All American Breakfast, where you can watch the returns amidst debtaing politicians, journalists and artists. This event is mostly in Dutch, although the more traditional Melkweg fare of music, film and comedy give it a clubby atmosphere. And comedy troupe Boom Chicago begins its election night festivities with the final performance of Angry White Men: Trump Up the Volume, followed by a Democrats Abroad event with entertainment and enough drinks to celebrate or mourn the night away.

I remember the elation of watching the 2008 election returns there, the ones that installed the first African American family into the White House. This year, perhaps against the odds, I’m keeping hope alive.

Enjoy a unique shopping experience with more than 100 stores, cafés and restaurants. Relax and take the daily Shopping Shuttle that departs every day at 10.00 in front of the Park Plaza Victoria Amsterdam. We are happy to welcome you.

250 FASHION BRANDS | 30-70% SAVINGS | OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK DENHAM, FOSSIL, GANT, GUESS, LACOSTE, NIKE, OILILY, REPLAY, SCOTCH & SODA, SUITSUPPLY, SUPERTRASH, VAN BOMMEL, VILLEROY & BOCH AND MANY MORE

BATAVIASTAD.COM

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WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home

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text Karin Engelbrecht

TIFFANY'S AT BIJENKORF Girl's best friends galore: the brand with the iconic blue box and white ribbon has opened up a new boutique in luxury department store De Bijenkorf. Find the world’s most famous and beautiful jewellery designs on the renovated ground floor. For a very special Christmas surprise, you'll find a wide collection of timeless engagement rings, but also stunning bracelets, earrings and key pendants if you want to go all out on the stocking stuffers.

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Dam 1 nl.tiffany.com, www.debijenkorf.nl

DE PINDAKAASWINKEL Michiel Vos has created a place of pilgrimage for peanut butter lovers in Eastern Islands’ popular indie shopping street. His artisan creations are made with freshly ground peanuts, organic coconut oil and pure, natural ingredients for the flavourings. There are 10 variations (from €4.75), including banana-chili, fennel-raisin, and caramel sea salt – and especially for the festive season – the ‘Pindaklaas’ with winter-spiced kruidnoten cookies.

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Czaar Peterstraat 169 E www.depindakaaswinkel.nl

EQUANIMITY This new headwear label tips its hat to its Amsterdam roots with a range of men’s and women’s ‘cycling caps’ in fresh designs – from basic black to tropical blue – priced from €39.95. With a name that means ‘calmness in the face of pressure’, it’s perhaps not surprising that the brand finds its balance by donating a share of its profits to the Maratika Foundation, which helps a Buddhist monastery in Nepal.

Available at Hutspot ; Rozengracht 204) (Van Woustraat 4 www.wearequanimity.com

PLUK Start your shopping day off the right way at this healthy-eating hidey hole in the 9 straatjes: think ‘smashed avo’ sandwiches and ‘pink paradise’ smoothie bowls. Its Insta-ready interior, a study in marble, mirror and metro tile, is appetisingly styled with baskets of fruit and veg and gluten-free goods. And, there are hip homewares by Scandi brands such as Nordal, Bloomingville and Broste, and chocolate bars, cutting boards and iPhone cases from Pluk’s plucky own label.

Runstraat 11 www.skins.nl

; Van Baerlestraat 27

FABIENNE CHAPOT This local leatherwear brand is famous for designs that combine feminine form with function: from leopard print iPhone covers (€29) and electric blue python leather purses (€149) to star-studded ankle boots (from €189). The best-selling baby bag, in colours such as Night Sky and Cognac, has a water-resistant interior, a handy colour-coordinated changing mat and plenty of interior pockets (€239).

Hartenstraat 7 www.fab.nl

BIG IN JAPAN Inspired by Japan’s juxtaposition of innovation and tradition, Poyan Rahimzadeh curates a collection of fashion and lifestyle brands ‘that define Japanese pop culture and lifestyle’. You’ll find menswear from Minotaur, Nanamica and Japanese brand NEIGHBORHOOD; womenswear labels T by Alexander, Laerke Andersen and Libertine Libertine; and kids’ brands Akid and One Third.

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OLD WEST Fans of ‘creative consumption and recycling’ will fall in love with this second-hand kids clothing store, where you’ll find lightly worn (because tiny tots grow so fast!), high-end labels such as Petit Louie, Noppies, Imps & Elfs, Oshkosh and Bengh Per Principesse, in sizes 40-122. Shop your child’s closet for castaways and Old West will sell it on consignment. There’s also a great instore kids’ corner, as well as books, toys and baby items.

De Clercqstraat 63 www.oldwestamsterdam.nl

Veemarkt 36A www.biginjapanstore.com

GASSAN Gassan Dam Square is located in the heart of Amsterdam and, being the largest jewellery store in Holland, sells an elaborate selection of loose polished diamonds, exclusive jewellery and watches of 65 different brands such as Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Chopard, Breguet, Audemars Piguet and many others. A highly trained staff provides customers with personal, expert advice to ensure that you can find the perfect Christmas gift.

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Rokin 1-5 www.gassan.com

MUSEUM TIPS Prinses Grace Kelly with Kelly Bag. Photo Getty Images engagement

The Netherlands in World War II From 1940 to 1945 the Netherlands were occupied

by Nazi Germany. See, hear and read fascinating stories about the exceptional ánd the everyday.

Verzetsmuseum Amsterdam, ongoing photo Milton Greene, © Ted Stampfer

photo Barbara van Amelsfort

amsterdammusea.org

Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam

90 years Miss Monroe

Offers a tranquil haven from the hustle and bustle of the city and contains over 6,000 different indigenous and non-native trees and plants.

This biographical exhibition opens up Marilyn Monroe’s world – the glamorous external appearance as well as her often lonely inner world.

Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam, ongoing

De Nieuwe Kerk Amsterdam, till 5 Feb 2017

Royal Bags A collection of handbags once carried by royalty.

The exhibition includes bags from Queen Elizabeth, Princess Grace and the Dutch royal family.

Tassenmuseum Hendrikje, till 26 Feb 2017

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

PART IV

THE

51

nov & dec 2016

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

>

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

WIN P O RT R A A FOR TW IT O em

ail info@m useumfo to with the .amsterdam subject 'A-Mag lov Museum es Foto'

ART BECOMES YOU The pinnacle of class: hanging on your mantelpiece (or your Facebook profile) your portrait as Vermeer's Milkmaid, or his delicate Girl with a Pearl Earring – or as Rembrant's self-portrait hard at work on one of his masterpieces. MuseumFoto’s gimmick is actually a ton of fun, and a really nice souvenir to bring home (short of getting your hands on the originals).

Head to their new location by the Nieuwe Kerk near the Dam Square, don a bonnet or a pilgrim collar and let Peter and Britt facilitate your costumed entry into art history.

© MUSEUMFOTO

MUSEUMFOTO Eggertstraat 2 www.museumfoto.amsterdam

52

PART IV THE A-LIST

KIDS & FAMILY

AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park.

Visitor Centre, Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, www.amsterdamsebos.nl.

Various times & prices.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Features quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including the diary itself.

Suitable for children over 10.

Prinsengracht 263-267, www.annefrank.org.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50.

ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes grazing amongst the zebras and wildebeests.

Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion, or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants.

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl.

Open daily 9:00-18:00; €20.50, ages 3-9 €17.

BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor

go-karting track, for ages 8 and up. Helmets and protective clothing are included.

There’s also a large playground, bowling alley and restaurant.

Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet.com.

Open Mon-Fri 13:00-23:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-23:00; various packages available.

COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio.

Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, www.cobra-museum.nl.

Open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6.

Children’s Studio Sun 11:00-14:00; free.

HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhibitions and a café.

Plantage Middenlaan 2A, www.dehortus.nl.

Open Mon-Sat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50.

HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated north of Amsterdam, between Zaanstad and Purmerend. You can rent canoes, row or pedal boats, and sailboats. www.hettwiske.nl.

KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located in the Vondelpark. Children (ages 5 to 12) do everything to help run

Highlight ARTIS

DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam.

Dijksgracht 2, www.deklimmuur.nl.

Various times & prices.

LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling lanes, or pit yourself against the enemy in the laser-tag arena.

De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl.

Various times & prices.

MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM The collection of wax figures includes Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein.

Dam 20, www.madametussauds.nl.

Open daily 10:00-18:30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under 5 free.

MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL A subtropical swimming complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor pools and wave machines.

Amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant.

De Mirandalaan 9, www.mirandabad.nl.

Various times & prices.

PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s waters make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages.

Ms van Riemsdijkweg www.pannenkoekenboot.nl.

Various times & prices.

HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids.

Kattenburgerplein 1, www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl.

Open daily 9:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under 5 free.

SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to science and technology.

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl.

Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under 4 free.

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR The Tropenmuseum is renowned for its Junior building's interactive exhibitions introducing children to new cultures in a playful way.

Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.nl.

Open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Mondays during public & school holidays 10:00-17:00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under 4 free.

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows and seven actors in one terrifying experience!

Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons.nl.

Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18.

advertorial

the restaurant.

Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkookkafe.nl.

Open daily 10:00-17:00; various prices.

VENUES

GUIDED TOUR AND ELEPHANT CALF VISIT Artis is expecting an elephant calf this autumn. Join the free guided tour behind the scenes to meet the baby and learn the most interesting things about Artis Sat, Sun & every day in the Christmas holiday at 13:45.

Starting point: restaurant De Twee Cheetahs. Tour offered in Dutch and English. No reservations required. Artis is open daily. Tickets: €17 for children aged 3 to 9, and €20.50 for adults.

EXTREMES ROUTE AT ARTIS-MICROPIA Microbes are the toughest lifeforms on Earth. Extreme cold, heat, dehydration, acidity and even radioactive emissions are no match for these microorganisms. Meet these superstars yourself this December on the Extremes route at Micropia, the only microbe museum of the world.

Every day in December. No reservations required. Micropia is open daily. Tickets: €12 for children aged 3 to 9, and €14 for adults. Recommended age: 8 and up.

Visit the website www.artis.nl or www.micropia.nl for more activities during the Christmas holidays.

Admission ticket for Artis + Micropia: €23.50 for children aged 3 to 9, and €27.50 for adults.

TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000 m2 indoor playground.

Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free.

VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior wing shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime.

Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.verzetsmuseum.org.

Open Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under 7 free.

WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs.

Westerpark, www.woestewesten.nl.

Playground supervisor present Mon & Tue 12:00-18:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00.

EVENTS I AM ART: DUTCH MASTERS The new permanent ‘IamArt’ exhibition at one of Amsterdam’s most fun and interactive attractions allows you to literally step inside the masterpieces of Dutch Masters like Piet Mondriaan, Vincent van Gogh and Rembrandt van Rijn.

Madame Tussauds, www.madametussauds. com/Amsterdam.

SUNDAY MARKET Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares, while delicious food and drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There is always some form of entertainment or crafty workshop going on and plenty of kids clothing and toy stalls to browse through.

6 Nov, 4 Dec (Sinterklaas) & 11 Dec (Funky Xmas Market).

Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket.nl.

nov & dec 2016

NEIGHBOURFOOD MARKET Follow your nose and discover some of the tastiest food and delicious drinks in Amsterdam at the NeighbourFood Market, which stops off at the Westergasfabriek on every third Sunday of the month (plus a full weekend event in December).

20 Nov, 17 & 18 Dec, Westergasfabriek, www.neighbourfood.nl ‘BRUSHES’ AWARD WINNERS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM The Rijksmuseum's annual exhibition of original prints by the winners of the 'Penselen' (Brushes), the 'Paletten' (Palettes) and the 'Vlag en Wimpels' (Flag and Pennants) awards. These awards honour the most beautifully illustrated children's books of the past year.

Until 19 Feb, Rijksmuseum

Spain to the Netherlands, bringing presents and special treats for the children.

This year's festivities include a boat parade along the Amstel (ending at the National Maritime Museum), followed by a horse parade through the city centre (to Leidseplein via the Dam Square). Children line the route to wave at Sint and his helpers, as traditional sweets rain down upon them.

Sun 13 Nov, Amsterdam city centre, www.sintinamsterdam.nl.

ICE*AMSTERDAM Embrace the season as Ice*Amsterdam presents a unique ice-skating experience on Amsterdam's Museumplein, with the Rijksmuseum as a phenomenal backdrop! Whether you're young or old, a twirling ice dancer or a first-timer staying upright by willpower alone, you'll love the atmosphere of this rink, as tourists, couples, friends and families mix together.

From 18 Nov, Museumplein, www.iceamsterdam.nl.

STUDIO 100 WINTERFESTIVAL If your kids are fans of Dutch TV, they'll love this colourful live arena spectacle. Everything from Mega Mindy to Bumba, Piet Piraat to K3 will be represented (and naturally the primary language of the event is in Dutch).

26 Nov, Ziggo Dome, www.ziggodome.nl.

HET NEDERLANDS MARIONETTENTHEATER A charming marionette theatre with performances for children aged 4 to 10 (sometimes to 12). Puppets bring magical tales like 'Rumpelstiltskin', 'Pinocchio' and 'The Magic Violin' to life.

Productions are in Dutch but the music and visuals ensure that language is no barrier.

Various dates in Nov & Dec, Het Nederlands Marionettentheater, www. nederlandsmarionettentheater.nl.

CHILDREN'S CONCERT: SINTERKLAAS IS JARIG! The Concertgebouw’s Children’s Concerts take children aged 4 to 12 on a wonderful journey of discovery into the world of music, instruments and musicians. During this special festive edition, the young ones will celebrate Sinterklaas's birthday with Cor Bakker and a host of traditional family-friendly songs (in Dutch).

30 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, www.concertgebouw.nl.

THE CASTLE IN THE AIR Set in the French countryside, 'The Castle in the Air' tells the story of Jeannot and Jeannette, two performers travelling to Paris. After purchasing a lottery ticket, Jeannot strikes it rich, but gaining wealth comes at a cost. With catchy melodies, humour and a sprinkling of melancholy, Jacques Offenbach’s opéra comique makes the move from his small theatre in Paris to Amsterdam.

6, 18, 27 Nov; 11, 26, 28, 29 Dec, Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, www.marionettentheater.nl.

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL The Amsterdam Light Festival returns to Amsterdam this festive season, (literally) putting the beautiful city centre and its canals in the limelight. As well as the illuminated artworks around the city's canals, look out for an extensive side-programme that will see a host of activities and events take place at museums, theatres, restaurants, shops and other locations in Amsterdam.

1 Dec-22 Jan, various locations, www.amsterdamlightfestival.com.

ARRIVAL OF SINTERKLAAS Every November, Sinterklaas, the Netherlands’ own version of Father Christmas, travels from his home in

DUTCH ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL One of the Netherlands’ most spectacular winter events comes to Amsterdam

this year. Led by the theme ‘Music Inspires’, 42 leading international ice artists will transform 550,000 kg of ice and snow into a breathtaking frozen landscape, creating magical worlds and spectacular music-themed sculptures up to six metres high. Alongside the ice-sculpture festival, guests can also enjoy a pop-up music museum in the Event Plaza at ArenA Boulevard, with winter beverages, food, fairground attractions and family activities.

10 Dec-5 Feb, Arena Park, www.ijsbeelden.nl.

Mon 12-Wed 14 Dec, R AI Theater, www.rai.nl.

20:00, €47-€65.

THE NUTCRACKER For many, Tchaikovsky's 'The Nutcracker' encapsulates all that's great about the holiday season. This rendition of the ballet is as classical as can be, performed by the Charkov State Opera & Ballet Theatre.

13 Dec, Royal Theatre Carré, carre.nl. 20:00, €15-€49.

Highlight kids © GERRIT SCHREURS

ENERGETICA This permanent outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate the techniques. These interactive exhibits include apparatus such as sundials, windmills and solar panels.

Even better, access to 'Energetica' is free.

NEMO Science Museum, www.nemo sciencemuseum.nl.

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS Featuring only the crème de la crème of the circus world, the internationally renowned World Christmas Circus returns to this former circus theatre for another magical seasonal run. Highlights in 2016 include circus icon Freddy Knie Jr with his enchanting horse carousel, two Golden Clown winners from the Great Chinese State Circus Beijing, and a Russian swing act featuring eight young women.

Thur 22 Dec-Sun 8 Jan, Royal Theatre Carré, carre.nl.

CHRISTMAS CONCERT: JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE CONCERTGEBOUW The annual Christmas concert with the Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw always puts the swing back into Santa's sack. The acclaimed jazz ensemble hands over the mic to acclaimed singer Roberta Gambarini, while trumpeter Roy Hargove adds extra flair to their big-band sound.

Mon 12 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, www.concertgebouw.nl.

20:15, €39-€56.

CHRISTMAS WITH THE KING Elvis racked up plenty of Christmas hits over his career: ‘Blue Christmas’, ‘Holy Night’ ,‘White Christmas’.

Well, now you can embrace that seasonal rock 'n' roll groove with singer Grahame Patrick and the Stamps Quartet.

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DISNEY ON ICE Disney on Ice celebrates 100 beloved years of magic with this figure-skating event featuring over 50 iconic Disney characters: Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck, Cinderella, Snow White and many, many more. From Frozen's 'Let It Go' – which includes fan favourites Olaf and Elsa – to The Lion King's catchy 'Hakuna Matata', this new Disney on Ice performance showcases more than 30 of the best-known Disney songs.

28-31 Dec, RAI Amsterdam, www.disneyonice.nl.

JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR Andrew Lloyd Webber's 1970 rock opera has entertained generations of musical fans over the decades.

14-17 Dec, Heineken Music Hall, www.heineken-music-hall. nl.

20:00, €49-€89.

KERSTMARKT NATUURPARK Taking place in a nature park just outside Lelystad, this Christmas Market is a truly 'gezellig' experience for all the family, blending a traditional European market with cosy fire pits, a live nativity, Christmas lights and a festive trail through the nature park, within which the kids can see various types of deer, wild boar, otters, beavers and elk.

17 Dec, Natuurpark Lelystad, www.f levo-landschap.nl.

NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA: CHRISTMAS CONCERT The programme of this Christmas concert by the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra focusses on fairytales, with music from Humperdinck’s Hänsel und Gretel and a story set in 19th-century Russia by Khachaturian.

19 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, www.concertgebouw.nl.

20:15, €23-€54.

WINTERPARADE The WinterParade invites guests to take their seats at a 120-metre-long table for a festive menu and stacks of dazzling entertainment bewteen the wining and dining.

Various dates in Dec, Zuiderkerk, www.tafelvandeidee.nl.

THE CHRISTMAS SHOW Experience the magic of Christmas in a stage show dedicated to all things merry: beautiful scenery, a famous cast, ballet, gospel and all your favourite Christmas songs.

Dutch will be the primary language but young ones will still enjoy the Christmas spectacle!

23, 24, 26 Dec, Ziggo Dome, www. ziggodome.nl.

Various times and prices.

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS THE STRANGER NEXT DOOR Amsterdam's Museum Zonder Muren (Museum Without Walls) hosts a special art route through the Transvaalbuurt, east of the Amstel. Experience a vast variety of works by locals and internationals, and discover special surprises – including lectures, tours and family fun. Visit www. museumzondermuren.com for more info.

Transvaalbuurt, 3-5 Nov GABRIEL LESTER – UNRESOLVED A musician and filmmaker turned visual artist, 'Unresolved' shows fragments of projects that Gabriel Lester and Raimundas Malasauskas jointly developed, together with guest appearances, special guests, dialogues, mixes and re-mixes.

De Appel arts centre, until 6 Nov FACE THE DUTCH, CONTEMPORARY The exhibition that received rave reviews in New York opens in Amsterdam. 'Face the Dutch' displays the work of several local photographers who explore concepts of Dutch culture.

De Hallen, until 15 Nov DYNASTIE MARUBI Not long after the invention of photography, a portrait studio was set up in northern Albania. 150 years and three generations of photographers later, the portraits offer a fascinating look into the life and times of a relatively unknown country.

This exhibition gets you up close and personal with the Ottoman Emperor, the urban bourgeoisie, farmers, criminals and more.

Foam, until 27 Nov OLYA OLEINIC – MADE IN CHINA 'Made in China', the ubiquitous phrase stamped across almost every consumer product, inspired Olya Oleinic to explore China’s position as a trade and export heavyweight.

This exhibition is an artistic representation of China, its people and its culture, in a world where Buddhism, communism and consumerism somehow coexist.

Foam, until 27 Nov 100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL The Amsterdam City Archives joins the Amsterdam Museum in celebrating 100 years of Schiphol.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 27 Nov MAGALI REUS: MUSTARD The Dutch sculptor, who is now based in London, is earning a growing following for her creative use of familiar, everyday objects. Her thought-provoking abstracts appropriate

everything from fridges to padlocks.

Stedelijk Museum, until 27 Nov VAN GOGH INSPIRES: MATISSE, KIRCHNER, KANDINSKY What did Van Gogh mean to the generation of artists that followed him? This small exhibition showcases 14 highlights from the Merzbacher Collection, illustrating how Van Gogh influenced the French Fauvists and the German Expressionists.

Van Gogh Museum, until 27 Nov JORDAN WOLFSON: MANIC / LOVE / TRUTH / LOVE Amsterdam Art Weekend opens with a solo exhibition

by New York based Jordan Wolfson. His provocative works, ranging from robotic human figures to satirical digital paintings, are influenced by the pop art legacy of his home country.

Stedelijk Museum, 27 Nov-7 May CELLULOID In an era when the moving image is almost entirely digitised, this international group exhibition celebrates the unique qualities of analogue film. Explore the wonderful peculiarities of 16mm and 35mm film.

EYE Filmmuseum, until 4 Dec SCARLETT HOOFT GRAAFLAND: SHORES LIKE YOU Photographer Scarlett Hooft Graafland travels to distant, unspoiled shores and works closely with locals to create carefully staged visual poems, where people and landscape merge.

Huis Marseille, until 4 Dec IN THE SPIRIT OF NATURE Photographers from Nigeria, Germany and Brazil explore impressions of life and spirituality in this haunting exhibition. Their powerful images use icons from the natural world to express concepts such as tribal rituals, outlawed religions and the loss of identity through slavery.

Huis Marseille, until 4 Dec AI WEIWEI – #SAFEPASSAGE A collection of images by Chinese artist and activist, Ai Wei Wei, that document his experiences as a political refugee in China, through to the Syrian refugee crisis. The artist and his team visited refugee camps throughout the Mediterranean, snapping heart-wrenching photographs on a mobile phone, which are presented in a floor-to-ceiling collage that is impossible to ignore.

Foam, until 7 Dec LORETTA FAHRENHOLZ Emerging artist Loretta Fahrenholz combines film with art in her signature style of ‘performative documentaries’

fusing different genres together using clips from existing documentary films as well as original footage.

originating from the 14th century and combining music and dance. The costumes in this Rijksmuseum exhibition

Choice exhibit

© CHRYSTEL LEBAS

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

CHRYSTEL LEBAS: REGARDING NATURE French photographer Chrystel Lebas was given a set of anonymous glass negatives and asked to build upon them.

What she discovered was that they were created by famed British botanist Edward James Salisbury. The extraordinary landscapes took Lebas on a four-year journey through the rugged forests of Scotland and Norfolk as she re-traced his steps and interpreted his vision.

Huis Marseille, 10 Dec-5 Mar.

25 YEARS OF MUSEUM JAN VAN DER TOGT The museum celebrates 25 years of showcasing modern art with two special exhibitions and the opening of a new wing. In particular, the exhibition '25 years of Jan' is a tribute to the relationship between founder and art collector, Jan van der Togt, and Jan Verschoor, the museum director. The new wing, called The Treasure Chamber, showcases the gallery’s most prominent works, including an extensive glass-sculpture collection.

Museum Jan van der Togt, until 8 Jan. Stedelijk Museum, 10 Dec-5 Mar AMSTERDAM'S BIRTHDAY Celebrate 741 years of Amsterdam at the Amsterdam City Archives. This exhibition presents a selection of historic objects and artefacts.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 11 Dec KIMONOS FROM THE OKURA COLLECTION 'No Theatre' is a stylised Japanese form of classical drama

DRIVE: 100 YEARS OF COLLECTING If you've been pondering why your cupboards are overflowing with Tupperware, this exhibition explores the reasons why we collect and showcase objects.

Sometimes it's by people who want to show off their wealth, other times they simply have an urge to hoard.

Naturally, a maritime theme recurs through the exhibition, including a life jacket from the Costa Concordia and a letter signed by Dutch naval hero Michiel de Ruyter.

De Nieuwe Kerk, until 5 Feb. chart the changes in this theatrical form down through the centuries.

Rijksmuseum, until 13 Dec ARITA HOUSE The exhibition shows the design and production process behind the new porcelain items from the '2016/ collection', and how the international designers were inspired by Japanese craftsmanship and cultural heritage.

Arita House Amsterdam, until 30 Dec

EMIGRANTS AT LLOYD HOTEL Between 1921 and 1935 the Lloyd Hotel served as an emigrant hotel for shipping company Royal Dutch Lloyd.

Via the hotel, thousands of Eastern Europeans emigrated to Brazil to work on the coffee plantations. The project shows migration has always been a part of human life and is thus very much related to the current (European) reality.

Lloyd Hotel, until 31 Dec DREAM OUT LOUD The Stedelijk Museum introduces the up-and-coming talent of 26 artists in their biennial large group exhibition, 'Dream out Loud', showcasing developments in the contemporary design discipline. The selected works explore new approaches to relevant social issues, and use materials in an innovative way.

Stedelijk Museum, until 1 Jan MOHAMED BOUROUISSA: HORSEDAY Horses, riding and the cowboy culture that exists in Philadelphia inspired Horseday: an exhibition by French-Algerian artist Mohamed Bourouissa.

It combines photographs, sculpture and video footage of a competition to find the most elegantly decorated horse.

Stedelijk Museum, until 1 Jan UNDER THE SPELL OF HERCULES SEGERS One of the lesser-known artists of the Dutch Golden Age went on to inspire generations of artists and printmakers.

Hercules Segers is renowned for his experimental ‘printed paintings’ that pushed the boundaries of classical techniques. In homage to the great artist, an exhibition detailing his influence on Rembrandt is on at Rembrandt House Museum, while the Rijksmuseum presents a complete retrospective of his works.

Rembrandthuis, until 8 Jan MASTERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY – MARTIN GERLACH Martin Gerlach’s unusual compositions of plants, animals and objects achieved something of a cult following in the 1890s. See how the photographer's peculiar images from his book of examples continues to fascinate audiences today. This exhibition shows more than 140 of these intriguing images, which have inspired generations of photographers.

Rijksmuseum, until 8 Jan FRANS POST: ANIMALS IN BRAZIL In 1636, as the Dutch cleared their new corner of Brazil for sugar plantations, they brought with them young Haarlem painter Frans Post to record the landscape and its people, flora and fauna. Post was inspired by what he’d seen long after he returned home, and his Brazilian landscapes were a big hit with Dutch customers.

Rijksmuseum, until 8 Jan

nov & dec 2016

HERCULES SEGERS The idiosyncratic paintings and prints by Golden Age artist Hercules Segers were highly prized by art lovers and artists in his own time. Rembrandt owned no less than eight painted works by Segers.

The ‘modern’ character of his art and its enormous rarity has earned Segers an almost mythical status amongst connoisseurs. Here the Rijksmuseum will exhibit works from its own collection as well as items on loan from the Netherlands and abroad.

Rijksmuseum, until 8 Jan CATHERINE, THE GREATEST A collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures and personal objects of Catherine the Great make their way from St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, inviting spectators into her world. This exhibition offers a unique glimpse into the life of Europe’s longest-reigning empress. Many of her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses, and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her decadent life.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 15 Jan DAUBIGNY, MONET, VAN GOGH Enter the world of Charles-Francois Daubigny, a 19th-century painter who influenced Van Gogh and the other famous Impressionists.

This major exhibition not only seeks to better understand his method and vision, but also to provide a clearer picture of the interconnections with Van Gogh's work, as well as that of his peers.

Van Gogh Museum, until 29 Jan THE BUDDHA The Buddha is one of the world’s most inspiring figures and his image is ubiquitous, even in the Netherlands. 100 Buddha statues feature in this exhibition, along with archive material and art telling the Buddha’s life story. The exhibition collection features key international loans from top museums such as the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and Asian museums in Berlin and Singapore.

Tropenmuseum, until 31 Jan AMSTERDAM 1900 Walk the streets of Amsterdam in 1900. An exhibition of more than 300 photographs by the likes of George Hendrik Breitner, Jacob Olie and Bernard Eilers presents a fascinating insight into the city’s history during the advent of photography. Step back in time and visit the bustling streets, the busy ports, the homes of the wealthy and slums of the poor.

Amsterdam City Archives, until 5 Feb 90 YEARS MISS MONROE In the year that would have marked her 90th birthday, this biographical exhibition

opens up Marilyn Monroe’s world – the successful and glamorous external appearance as well as her often lonely inner world. It invites visitors to experience Marilyn through her private objects, including famous articles of clothing, accessories and personal documents. You'll discover an intimate view of this icon, both in and away from the camera’s gaze.

De Nieuwe Kerk, until 5 Feb ‘BRUSHES’ AWARD WINNERS IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM The Rijksmuseum's annual exhibition of original prints by the winners of the 'Penselen' (Brushes), the 'Paletten' (Palettes) and the 'Vlag en Wimpels' (Flag and Pennants) awards. These awards honour the most beautifully illustrated children's books of the past year.

Rijksmuseum, until 19 Feb ROYAL BAGS See a collection of handbags that were once carried by royalty. Among the highlights are the Hermès Kelly bag designed for Princess Grace, pieces from Queen Elizabeth’s private collection, Louis Vuitton trunks that travelled with Empress Eugénie of France and three bags that Queen Máxima personally selected for this exhibition.

Museum of Bags and Purses, until 26 Feb JEAN TINGUELY – MACHINE SPECTACLE Swiss artist Jean Tinguely is famous for his playful, boldly kinetic machines and explosive performances. Twenty-five years after his death, the Stedelijk Museum mounts the largest ever Dutch retrospective of the artist's work, including machine sculptures, films, photos, drawings and archive materials.

Stedelijk Museum, until 5 Mar MARINUS BOEZEM Marinus Boezem, renowned for bringing conceptual art to the Netherlands in the 1960s, will transform the Oude Kerk, the oldest church and oldest building in Amsterdam, into an interactive installation.

Visitors can see the space from new perspective (and heights, if they dare) and appear and disappear within it.

Oude Kerk, 24 Nov-26 Mar 100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL: READY FOR TAKE-OFF On 19 September 1916, a small plane landed for the first time in muddy pasture by some wooden farm sheds in Haarlemmermeer. A hundred years later, where can Amsterdam Airport Schiphol expand to next? Play air traffic control games, see a WWII bomb and figure out the future of Schiphol at this special centenary exhibition.

Amsterdam Museum, until 7 May

THE STATE COACH IN THE NETHERLANDS The Van Loon Family travelled in style. See the spectacular golden carriage, which has recently been restored, in the coach house at Museum Van Loon. The exhibition continues through the historical home and includes paintings, archival documents and other glimpses into Amsterdam’s past.

Museum van Loon, until 30 Jan VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands, both before and after the introduction of the Housing Act in 1901. Explore a life-sized hovel, built next to the museum, to discover what living conditions really were like.

Museum Het Schip, permanent

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution.

BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens, including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices, features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens.

HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world.

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life.

VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canalhouse attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as his contemporaries.

RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th Century.

EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema.

HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship.

ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate techniques.

KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection.

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th century.

TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work.

55

WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

ADDRESSES Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 www.amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Body Worlds Damrak 66 www.bodyworlds.nl De Appel Arts Centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A www.dehortus.nl Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Madame Tussauds Dam 20 www.madametussauds.com De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Oudekerk Oudekerksplein 23 www.oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam Dam square www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) Kattenburgerplein 1 hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl

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PART IV

57

ADVERTORIAL

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ALFRED EISENSTAEDT /THE LIFE PICTURE /GETTY IMAGES

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card:

STEDELIJK MUSEUM JEAN TINGUELY Until 5 March 2017

25 years after his death, the Stedelijk Museum is presenting a major retrospective on Jean Tinguely's edgy and playful machines.

From his early wire sculptures to the closing piece of the exhibition, the monumental, dark and destructive 'Mengele-Totentanz', the master's experimental, kinetic oeuvre set the art world in motion.

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

NIEUWE KERK 90 YEARS MS MONROE Until 5 February 2017

Marilyn Monroe, the iconic actress with the blonde locks and smouldering blue stare, would be 90 years old today. The Nieuwe Kerk is celebrating this by showcasing a rare and extensive collection of her photographs and personal effects, including the infamous white dress. An intimate, often touching look at a legend and her extraordinary life.

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TEYLERS MUSEUM HAARLEM FLOWERBOMB Until 8 January 2017

The Teylers Museum has an incredible permanent collection of historical artwork, books and objects on the themes of arts and science. This winter they also present a special exhibition: Flowerbomb, a colorful bouquet of botanical books from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Taken from their naturalhistory library, the selection of wonderful illustrations is a lovely showcase of the cross-pollination between art and science.

H.J. ELWES, A MONOGRAPH OF THE GENUS LILIUM, Z.P., 1880

FOTO: CHRISTIAN BAUR, C/O PICTORIGHT AMSTERDAM, 2016

ZAANSE SCHANS

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58

PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’.

Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, €15 ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP UP THE VOLUME Boom Chicago's political comedy team is reunited for the impending US election. Pep Rosenfeld, Greg Shapiro and director Andrew Moskos have created and performed in seven critically acclaimed political shows on Boom Chicago's stage, but are they ready for President Donald Trump? various dates Nov, Boom Chicago, 20:30, various prices BEST OF BOOM 2016 After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom'. various dates Nov & Dec, Boom Chicago, 20:30 EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. every Fri, Crea Café, 20:00 & 21:00, €5-€10 LA BAYADÈRE The ballet about the love between Indian temple dancer Nikiya and warrior Solor has been capturing ballet lovers' hearts for nearly 140 years.

This production uses the highly acclaimed version first created for the prestigious American Ballet Theatre by former Russian ballerina Natalia Makarova and based on the original choreography by Marius Petipa from 1877. various dates Sat 5-Sun 13 Nov, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 20:15, Sun 14:00, €19-€92 EVENING OF BALLET MUSIC Immerse yourself in tunes from 'Swan Lake' to 'The Nutcracker' – naturally with top quality dancers on stage too.

Matthew Rowe, the musical director of the Dutch National Ballet conducts, while a host of special guests will also appear throughout the evening.

Fri 4 Nov, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €19-€55 ANTIGONE Sophocles' political thriller about the position of the individual within the society, the empowerment of women, loyalty and love is brought to the stage by The International Theatre in English.

Fri 4, 11 & 24 Nov, Compagnietheater, 20:30, €17.50

RAIN 'Rain' is one of Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s most vibrant choreographies, which premiered in 2001. Set to Steve Reich’s 'Music for 18 Musicians' and performed here by Rosas, the mathematical structures, the relentlessly geometric use of space and the art of constant variation are pushed to the limits.

Sat 5 & Sun 6 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €22.50€45 TUTTI Introdans has been a cornerstone of the Dutch dance scene since the early 1970s. To mark their 45th anniversary, the company is set to perform 'Tutti'. As is common for them, it features some of the world's highest profile choreographers, but also showcases some up-and-coming names in the dance scene.

Mon 7 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€40 JEPHTHA Director Claus Guth gives his take on the dramatic and emotional story of 'Jephtha', the biblical tale of a serviceman who sacrifices his daughter to satisfy a God-owed promise.

Wed 9-Sun 27 Nov, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various dates & times, €17€142 SYMBOLEN As part of the Netherlands' Hieronymus Bosch year in 2016, marking the 500th anniversary of the medieval painter's death, this NDT 2 programme offers up a tryptic of ballets that are inspired by Bosch’s art and extensive use of symbolism.

Thur 10 & Fri 11 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10€42.50 GIULIO D'ANNA OOOOOOOO Choreographer and director Giulio D’Anna presents a dance/theatre piece inspired

by Zagreb's Museum of Broken Relationships.

Sat 12 Nov, Podium Mozaïek, 21:00, €17 BALLET GALA From excerpts from the Dutch National Ballet's 'Mata Hari' to the contemporary moves of Nederlands Dans Theater and choreographer Hans van Manen, this charity ballet gala brings together the top dance performers from all over the Netherlands, also promising exclusives from Introdans, Scapino Ballet Rotterdam, Conny Janssen Danst, De Dutch Don’t Dance Division and the National Ballet's Junior Company.

Mon 14 Nov, DeLaMar Theater, 19:30, €40-€75 EDDIE IZZARD A bit of a linguistic wonder, English comedian Eddie Izzard has sold out arena shows around the world, also performing in languages like French and German, while he's just about to tackle Span-

Choice theatre

VR WINTER WONDERLAND The Boom Chicago improv comedy team get seasonal with a show that's inspired by the 'Year of VR'. You won't technically have to strap anything over your eyes to have a fun night out (unless that's your personal fetish). But you're invited to head in early before the laughs truly start to grab some seasonal snacks and drinks, and try out some virtual reality demonstrations, such as the film 'Oh Crap, I'm Donald Trump'.

Tue 15 Nov-Mon 16 Jan, Boom Chicago, www.boomchicago.nl. Various times and prices. ish for the first time. In Amsterdam he keeps it plain and simple in English, but don't be surprised if a few Dutchisms pop up in his script, which is always morphing as new cultures soak into his brain.

Fri 18 & Sun 20 Nov, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €34€44 'ALLO 'ALLO! This humorous comedy takes its lead from the classic British sitcom of the same name, presenting a silly but touching look at the French resistance movement during WWII. It's performed in English, with the bonus of some beautifully offensive French and German accents.

Sat 19, Sun 20, Fri 25, Sat 26, Sun 27 Nov, Badhuistheater, various times, €15 ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHT A night of international laughs at the Comedy Café. Look out for sets from Dave ‘Tinky Winky’ Thompson (UK), Brian O’Gradly (Ireland) and other special guests.

Fri 25 Nov, Comedy Café, 22:30, €13 BALLET VLAANDEREN Belgian company Ballet Vlaanderen present three works by American choreographers. These include Merce Cunningham's 'Pond Way', William Forsythe's 'Approximate Sonata' and Shahrazad's 'Scheherazade'.

Thur 1 & Fri 2 Dec, 20:00, €15-€55 PARSIFAL Director Pierre Audi has proved to be a master of opera over the decades. Together with visual artist Anish Kapoor and a world-class team and cast, he now brings you Wagner's final opera, 'Parisfal'.

The Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra pull the massive musical punches here.

Tue 6-Thur 29 Dec, various dates and times, €22-€165 SPIRITWALKING Nederlands Dans Theater 1 set up home in the impressive Gashouder building at Westergasfabriek for 'Spiritwalking', an evening devoted to house choreographers Sol León and Paul Lightfoot. In this special site-specific production, some of the world's top dancers will be accompanied by music especially composed by Philip Glass and performed live by the Ragazze Kwartet.

Thur 8-Wed 14 Dec, Westergasfabriek, 20:00 (Sat 15:00), €35 CHRISTMAS WITH THE KING Elvis racked up plenty of Christmas hits over his career.

Think ‘Blue Christmas’, ‘Holy Night’ and ‘White Christmas’.

Well now you can embrace that seasonal rock 'n' roll groove with singer Grahame Patrick and the Stamps Quartet. Mon 12-Wed 14 Dec, RAI Theater, 20:00,€47-€65 THE NUTCRACKER For many, Tchaikovsky's 'The Nutcracker' encapsulates all that's great about the holiday season. This rendition of the ballet is as classical as can be, performed by the Charkov State Opera & Ballet Theatre.

Tue 13 Dec, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €15-€49 JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR Get your Jesus on this holiday season! Andrew Lloyd Webber's 1970 rock opera has entertained generations of musical fans over the decades.

Texan rock 'n' roll performer Ted Neeley, who played the role of Jesus in the original 1973 film, is returning to the stage at the age of 73 to tour this international rock opera through the Netherlands one last time.

Wed 14-Sat 17 Dec, Heineken Music Hall, 19:30, €49-€89 WINTERPARADE The WinterParade invites guests to take their seats at a 120-metre long table for a festive menu and stacks of dazzling entertainment bewteen the wining and dining. various dates Dec, Zuiderkerk, www.tafelvandeidee.nl DE MEIDEN Acclaimed English theatre director Katie Mitchell made a huge impact in Amsterdam in 2015 as part of the 'Brandstichter' theatre series. 'De Meiden' sees her team up with Toneelgroep Amsterdam for a 1947 play by Jean Genet, about two maids who hatch a plan to murder their mistress.

Thur 15 & 22 Dec, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10€33.50 SWAN LAKE Witness 'Swan Lake' like never before with experimental theatre director Jakop Ahlbom's take on the classic ballet.

Ahlbom collaborates with indie-rockers Alamo Race Track on this production, bringing pop, indie and folk music into the mix – catering for fans of old and new, music and dance alike.

Wed 21 Dec, Schouwburg Amstelveen, 20:00, €26.50

ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 020 525 1423 www.crea.uva.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255 www.carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 020 530 5301 www.theaterbellevue.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl

nov & dec 2016

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS Choice festivals

their doors from 19:00 to 02:00 to allow visitors to see Amsterdam’s museums in a completely new light – after dark! Look out for special events including MUSEUM MARKET workshops, concerts, special tours and performances as well This design market on Amas tasty food and drinks to help sterdam’s Museumplein offers keep your energy levels up. fashion, accessories, textiles, homewares, jewellery, stationery 5 Nov, various locations, www. museumnacht.amsterdam and much more, all by local designers. When you're done SIERAAD ART FAIR shopping, grab some food and The only platform in the Nethenjoy some live music. erlands where professional con20 Nov & 18 Dec, Museumtemporary jewellery designers plein, www.museummarket.nl from home and abroad can sell NEIGHBOURFOOD MARKET their work directly to the public.

In addition to shopping for and Discover some of the tastiest admiring the designs, you can food and drinks in Amsterdam join a number of presentations at the NeighbourFood Market, DUTCH ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL and special events. which stops off at the WestOne of the Netherlands’ most spectacular winter events 10-13 Nov, Westergasfabriek, ergasfabriek on every third www.sieraadartfair.com Sunday of the month (plus a full comes to Amsterdam this year. Building on the theme ‘Music weekend event in December).

Inspires’, 42 leading international ice artists will transform JAZZFEST AMSTERDAM 20 Nov, 17 & 18 Dec, Wester550,000 kg of ice and snow into a breathtaking frozen landThe event promises guests a gasfabriek, www.neighbourscape, creating magical worlds and spectacular music-themed cosy evening of swinging tunes food.nl sculptures up to six metres high. Alongside the ice sculpture from some of Amsterdam’s festival, guests can also enjoy a pop-up music museum in the INTERNATIONAL STORYTELL- favourite jazz bands and artists: ING FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Shai Maestro Trio, Reinier Baas, Event Plaza at ArenA Boulevard, with winter beverages, food, Tutu Puoane, Jesse van Ruller Tall tales, beautiful stories, old fairground attractions and family activities. and more. legends and touching recitals 10 Dec-5 Feb, ArenA Park, www.ijsbeelden.nl.

12 & 13 Nov, Studio/K, www. will all make an appearance at jazzfestamsterdam.nl this year’s festival, resulting in a fantastic selection of stories IDFA: INTERNATIONAL (many in English, although not DOCUMENTARY FILM exclusively).

FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM 29 Oct-6 Nov, various locaEvery November, IDFA treats tions, www.storytelling festidocumentary lovers to the latval.nl est and greatest domestic and PLAYGROUNDS FESTIVAL international arrivals from the documentary film world. Grab A celebration of the creative a programme and check out the image and the latest develwide variety of themes and speopments in film, animation cial events lined up this year. and animatronics. The festival 16-27 Nov, various locations, features a host of artists, storyAMSTERDAM ART www.idfa.nl tellers, investors, technicians CHRISTMAS VILLAGE ON WEEKEND and craftspeople from across the ICE TURN ON THE LIGHTS globe. Activities include talks, Amsterdam Art Weekend Taking place next to the ice workshops and film screenings. Amsterdam's luxury department offers art enthusiasts rink at Museumplein, this store de Bijenkorf opens the 3 & 4 Nov, Stadsschouwburg, the chance to delve into festive village transforms the festive season in brilliant specwww.playgroundsfestival.nl Amsterdam’s vibrant iconic square into a magical tacle and festive cheer. Head contemporary art scene to DA BOUNCE URBAN along for a magical theatrical winter wonderland. The FILM FESTIVAL discover (and get their hands show at Dam Square, as well as holiday atmosphere is comthe illumination of hundreds of This film festival provides an on) work by talented young pleted by Christmas markets, thousands of energy-efficient international platform for urban artists. The programme live entertainment and an LED lights on the façade of the film lovers and the film indusfeatures more than 100 abundance of traditional majestic de Bijenkorf building! try. Alongside new releases, exhibitions in venues Dutch Christmas food and 17 Nov, Dam Square, www. old-school classics, shorts and throughout the city, plus drinks – all set against the debijenkorf.nl documentaries, look out for live performances, screenings, shows, parties, youth projects, stunning backdrop of the PAN AMSTERDAM debates and more. and interviews with filmmakers.

Rijksmuseum.

Modern-day art fair that guar4-6 Nov, Westergasfabriek, 24-27 Nov, various locations, 17-30 Dec, Museumplein, antees surprise, variety and www.dbuff.nl www.amsterdamart.com. www.iceamsterdam.nl. quality, presenting work ranging MUSEUM NIGHT from classical antiquities and AMSTERDAM Old Masters to contemporary craftspeople and diverse artists returns to Amsterdam this photography and art. Before to share their passion for design festive season, (literally) putting Each November, more than 50 and craftsmanship with the the beautiful city centre and its museums in Amsterdam open this annual fair even opens, each work of art is extensively vetted public. Throughout the three canals in the limelight. As well for quality, authenticity and condays of the event, visitors can as the illuminated artworks advert dition by the experts. buy objects directly from the around the city's canals, look 27-20 Nov, Amsterdam RAI, participating artists, or simply out for an extensive side-prowww.pan.nl pick their brains. gramme that will see a host of 25-27 Nov, Westergasfabriek, activities and events take place ANTIQUE, VINTAGE, www.meesterlijk.nu at museums, theatres, restauART & DESIGN FAIR rants, shops and other locations FOOD FILM FESTIVAL Enjoy a fantastic shopping in Amsterdam. experience in the atmospheric The Food Film Festival specia1 Dec-22 Jan, various locaPosthoornkerk. Some 35 selllises in presenting scrumptious tions, www.amsterdamlighters will be participating in the selections of films about food. festival.com Antique, Vintage, Art & Design Their 2016 visit to Amsterdam LOVEDANCE Fair, offering up a variety of rare, coincides perfectly with IDFA, beautiful and occasionally unso expect some great internaHelping to raise both money usual wares. tional docs inspired by food. and awareness with a loud, 25-27 Nov, Posthoornkerk, 28 Nov, De Brakke Grond, colourful and fun approach to www.stadsherstel.nl www.foodfilmfestival.nl a serious issue, Lovedance always features a huge and varied MEESTERLIJK AMSTERDAM LIGHT line-up of artists, musicians, 15, 22 DEC FESTIVAL Annual event allowing prodbands, DJs, dancers and other SURTITLED IN ENGLISH uct, fashion & food designers, The Amsterdam Light Festival performers.

FESTIVALS EVENTS

THE MAIDS

1 Dec, Paradiso, www.lovedance.nl FASHION FEST All things fashion form a core part of the Fashion Fest. Some 62 talents have been competing over four months, working on fashion design, hairstyles, makeup and modelling. You can see the results today and discover the winners, as well as picking up fashion tips from the experts.

10 Dec, Tropenmuseum, www. tropenmuseum.nl PURE WINTER MARKET For organic produce and sustainable gifts, head to the Pure Winter Market. The event returns to Amsterdam each December and offers a relaxed atmosphere that provides a creative, friendly and health-inspired twist on the season.

11 Dec (Amstelpark), 18 Dec (Park Frankendael), www.puremarkt.nl VALHALLA The best and brightest electronic dance initiatives in Amsterdam team up to host a night filled with the biggest names in dance music. Expect an extensive variety of musical styles, from disco to deep house and from techno to club house.

17 Dec, RAI Amsterdam, www. valhallafestival.nl TANGOTRAIN Get a dose of fiery tango passion at one of the many TangoTrain dance performances and workshops around Amsterdam. It doesn't just take two to tango: whether you’re there to participate or just watch, this event has something for everyone.

25 Dec-1 Jan, various locations, www.tangotrain.com THIS ART FAIR Between shopping the sales and spreading holiday cheer, don’t miss This Art Fair. It's an eclectic art event featuring visual art, design, dance, video, light installations, workshops and music. As well as the art fair showcasing new and established talents, look out for a diverse programme of side events.

27-30 Dec, Beurs van Berlage, www.thisartfair.com CALEFAX – PAN As the year draws to a close, it’s something of an annual tradition for the players of the Calefax Reed Quintet to team up with special guests . The results are always surprising and respectably adventurous.

28 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, www.calefax.nl UNIVÉ GYM GALA: A TOUCH OF GOLD A Touch of Gold promises an eclectic mix of sport and entertainment. Following a stellar year for gymnastics at the Rio 2016 Olympic Games, top gymnasts – such as Ukrainian aerial acrobat Stepan Melnyk – and international entertainment acts – such as the gravity-defying Austrian gymnast group Zurcaroh – showcase what they do best. 29 Dec, Ziggo Dome, www.gymgala.nl

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PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ POP & JAZZ

Fri 4 Nov, Amstelkerk, 20:30, €15

STORMZY DHAFER YOUSSEF - DIWAN OF BEAUTY & ODD English hip-hop and grime artist Stormzy has been making Jazz, avant-garde and world waves in the UK over the past music rub shoulders in Dhafer two years, reaching number Youssef ’s unique musical style. eight in the UK Singles Charts Following the success of his at the end of 2015 and winning latest album, 'Birds Requiem', multiple awards. The self-deYoussef makes his debut in the scribed 'child of grime' has Concertgebouw’s Grote Zaal been expanding his musical with his new project, 'Diwan of repertoire as of late with some Beauty & Odd'. Three fantastic rap-inspired tracks. musicians join him for the adFri 4 Nov, Melkweg, 20:30, €17 venture: pianist Aaron Parks, bassist Ben Williams and drumANGEL OLSEN mer Justin Faulkner.

Angel Olsen made her debut in Wed 2 Nov, Royal Concertge2011 as a singer-songwriter of bouw, 19:30, €25 sad folk songs, sounding immeWARPAINT diately enchanting if somewhat reserved on tape. Come 2014, Los Angeles indie rock band with a full band, her sound Warpaint promises fine guitar became more powerful and melodies, hypnotic vocals and the pop hooks a little sharper, post-punk rhythms somewhere while still maintaining a lo-fi between psychedelia and edge. Now, with new album 'My intimate soundscape. Expect Woman', she’s blown it all apart expansive, lushly-harmonic with some serious tempestupsych-rock as they unveil their ousness, keeping her 'girl with newest material. a guitar' style at the heart of her Wed 2 Nov, Paradiso, 20:30, songs, but also reflecting flashes €21 of R&B and Motown and offerROBERT GLASPER ing up dashes of pop lyricism that'll loop in your head.

This jazz pianist grew up surrounded by Motown, R&B and Sun 6 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €15 gospel, and found his way to jazz as a teenager. At home with UGLY KID JOE hip-hop and soul, his enthusiCalifornian rockers Ugly Kid astic genre-busting projects and Joe are known for their eclectic collaborations have won him Grammy nominations. With his approach to rock music, fusing elements of hard rock, funk band the Experiment, Glasper teams up with like-minded mu- metal and glam metal into their sicians in search of new musical tracks. The band’s first release, 'As Ugly as They Wanna Be', was horizons. the first EP to reach platinum Thur 3 Nov, Tolhuistuin, certification in the US and their 21:00, €25 biggest hits remain 'Everything KENNY ROGERS About You' and a cover of Harry Chapin's 'Cat's in the Cradle'.

Having been inducted into the Sun 6 Nov, Q-Factory, 19:30, Country Music Hall of Fame, €17.50 Rogers is retiring following a 60-year music career. The ANDREW ROACHFORD Grammy Award-winning artist This British singer-songwriter drops into Amsterdam as part took the international pop of his farewell tour, breaking out scene by storm in the late 1980s all the hits and fan favourites with hits such as 'Cuddly Toy' along the way – think 'The Gamand 'Family Man', and in the bler', 'Lucille' and 'Ruby Don't 30 years since then has earned Take Your Love To Town'. countless Platinum and Gold Thur 3 Nov, Heineken Music discs. Tonight he unveils his 11th Hall, 19:30, €70.40-€92.40 album, 'Encore', featuring selfBENJAMIN HERMAN & penned ballads alongside covers ANTON GOUDSMIT: HEAR! such as 'Family Affair' and 'Ain’t HEAR! No Sunshine'.

Sun 6 Nov, North Sea Jazz Hyperkinetic saxophonist BenClub, 21:00, €22-€25 jamin Herman and multi-faceted guitarist Anton Goudsmit RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS played together for many years A sold out return to Amsterdam in New Cool Collective, but tonight they'll perform as a duo. for the Red Hot Chili Peppers, the original funky muppets. This Catch them at this intimate tour brings together Anthony show for some smooth jazz, Kiedis, bassist Flea, drummer driving bluesy detours, old Chad Smith and guitarist Josh school standards, improv and Klinghoffer to showcase 'The brand new material.

Getaway'. And don't forget that Fri 4 Nov, Royal Concertge'Blood Sugar Sex Magik' has just bouw, 19:30, €28 turned 25, too.

JOSEPH ARTHUR Tue 8 & Wed 9 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, sold out American singer-songwriter Joseph Arthur was discovered by ADAM GREEN Peter Gabriel in 1996 and since Flamboyant singer-songwriter then he’s notched up 11 albums, Adam Green was born into 11 EPs and a Grammy nomiNew York’s anti-folk scene, and nation. His latest album, 'The weaves his way through music, Family', all written on a 1912 art and film-making with huSteinway piano, mixes tender ballads with aching guitar solos mour and laid-back enthusiasm.

His poetic film 'Aladdin' will be and pounding rock numbers.

Choice pop & jazz

KATE TEMPEST This sharp-mouthed, modern hip-hop songstress never trips over a syllable. Making the move from spoken word to bassheavy tunes, her debut album came across like pure theatre – its sharp narrative grabbing your full attention, guiding you through the lives of very real youths in urban England and offering bass and beats to match. Her latest is titled 'Let Them Eat Chaos', just out in October, and doesn't pull any punches.

Thur 10 Nov, Melkweg, 19:30, €16.

THE EX Dutch post-punk band The Ex has a rich history of working with Ethiopian jazz for more than a decade. Numerous visits to Addis Ababa spawned a host of collaborations and inspired The Ex's own Ethiopian offshoots, including notable albums recorded with sax player Getatchew Mekuria, who sadly passed away this year. To pay tribute, The Ex team up with Ethiopian group Fendika, inviting friends from the Netherlands and Ethiopia – from top jazz stars to acrobats – to share in the vibrant, raw energy of Mekuria's music.

Wed 16 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, €18. shown before the concert.

Wed 9 Nov, Paradiso, 20:00, €15 BASSEKOU KOUYATÉ & NGONI BA Get a taste of vibrant Mali rock from guitarist Bassekou Kouyaté. Taking on the traditions of folk and pop from the region, his electrifying guitar style and the urgency of his heavily percussive band Ngoni Ba has ensured growing waves of international success.

Wed 9 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, €20 ALTER BRIDGE Alter Bridge are one of the United States’ most prevalent

THE JULIE RUIN The latest project by Kathleen Hanna, formerly of Bikini Kill and Le Tigre.

Like all that's come before in her career, there's a fair slice of ferociousness about The Julie Ruin and the former riot grrrl singer's distinctive wail remains intact.

But the older, wiser Hanna balances the bombast with loose garage rock grooves, being comfortable in her own shoes with little left to prove, and that perpetually wicked sense of humour that can tear down anyone or anything with a chorus and a wink.

Mon 28 Nov, Paradiso, 21:00, €12.50. rock bands, often blurring the lines between heavy metal, hard rock and grunge rock. The band are currently touring Europe to promote their sixth full-length album release 'The Last Hero'.

Thur 10 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €49

album, but he generally delves into his entire discography for his setlists, too.

Fri 11 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €39 BRAD MEHLDAU & JOSHUA REDMAN DUO Rarely do jazz artists of this stature perform together as a duo, but tonight saxophonist Joshua Redman and pianist Brad Mehldau will celebrate the release of their first collaborative album. These two American players exchange roles fluidly, as soloists and accompanists. As well as unveiling breathtaking original compositions, expect a host of timeless jazz numbers and surprising pop songs, too.

Fri 11 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €38 SGT. PEPPER’S LONELY HEARTS CLUB BAND While some Beatles tribute bands will focus on the early works or the biggest songs, The Analogues prefer to take it on one album at a time with a focus on the later, more complex works. Here they’ll play 'Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band' with a full pop orchestra.

Sat 12 Nov, Royal Theatre Carré, 20:00, €19-€39 BEAR'S DEN The London-based Bear’s Den have been compared to fellow folk rock acts like Mumford & Sons and Noah and the Whale, becoming firm Amsterdam favourites thanks to repeat visits over the past few years.

The band are touring Europe in their biggest headline tour to date to promote the release of their latest album, 'Red Earth & Pouring Rain'.

Sat 12 Nov, Melkweg, 19:30, €20 WHITNEY Guitarist Max Kakacek and singing drummer Julien Ehrlich make up Chicago alt-country duo Whitney. These 'contemporary pop jewels' are purveyors of carefree indie pop, candy for the ears, to make you happy. Supported by Julia Jacklin, rising alt-country star.

Sun 13 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20:00, €15 LOCAL NATIVES Afropop-influenced guitar styles, hyperactive drumming and hooky harmonies are what you’ll get from this Los Angeles indie rock band, overlaid with the distinctive, fragile voice of Taylor Rice.

Sun 13 Nov, Paradiso, 20:30, €19

BANKS & STEELZ Lead vocalist and guitarist of rock band Interpol, Paul GREGORY PORTER Banks, and Wu-Tang Clan Porter is known for a particrapper RZA started making ularly rare accomplishment: music together in 2011 under achieving commercial and critthe name Banks & Steelz. The ical success with a jazz album.

East Coast hip-hop/rock duo The album in question, 'Liquid have been writing and recording Spirit', also secured the artist the ever since, releasing their debut 2014 Grammy Award for Best album, 'Anything But Words' at Jazz Vocal Album, and is the the end of summer. most-streamed jazz album of Tue 15 Nov, Melkweg, all time. He's currently touring 19:30, €20 to promote his latest full-length

nov & dec 2016

61

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ VOLBEAT Danish heavy metal band Volbeat celebrate their new studio album’s chart-topping worldwide debut with their largest rock 'n' roll package to date: Americans Crobot open, while Australia’s Airbourne also support. It’ll be 'loud enough to tear the roof off of any building,' says frontman Michael Poulson.

Tue 15 Nov, Ziggo Dome, 19:00, €35-€45

HOOVERPHONIC Hit machine Hooverphonic have ruled the roost in Belgium pop for years. They've recently released their ninth studio album, 'In Wonderland', with guest vocals from artists including the Netherlands’ own Tjeerd Bomhof. Tonight they'll be topping off their trip-hop and ambient pop with a ten-strong string ensemble and the voices of Pieter Peirsman, Kimberly Dhondt and Nina Sampermans.

Sat 19 Nov, Paradiso, 20:30, €21

HOLLY GOLIGHTLY London singer Holly Golightly began her musical career in PLACEBO garage band Thee Headcoatees, following that up with her first Placebo's debut was a slow solo album in 1995. The past 20 burner, arriving just after the years have seen her explore a peak of Britpop. While single rich seam of rhythm and blues, 'Teenage Angst' carried all the rockabilly and the sounds of the energy and anger that was driv1960s, collaborating with The ing the band in those early days, White Stripes, Billy Childish it was the single 'Nancy Boy' and more along the way. that really broke them through Tue 15 Nov, Bitterzoet, 20:30, into the mainstream. And after €12.50 years of refusing to play their old hit singles, the band promises BASTILLE to make an exception as they The London rock band Bastille celebrate the 20th anniversary won British Breakthrough Act of their self-titled album. at the Brit Awards in 2014, and Mon 21 Nov, Ziggo Dome, it’s been all systems go since 20:00, €37-€47 then. Their glossy 1980s synth SYMPHONIC ECHOES OF pop and big arena-friendly QUEEN - TRIBUTE TO FREDchoruses have earned them acDIE MERCURY colades from Glastonbury to the Grammys, and now they're back Twenty-five years after the death for the release of their second of legendary Queen frontman album, 'Wild World'.

Freddie Mercury, the Noord Wed 16 Nov, Ziggo Dome, Nederlands Orkest reprises 20:00, €36.50-€42.50 its epic 'Symphonic Echoes of Queen' from 2009. Composer THERAPY? Dirk Brossé’s spectacular symNorthern Irish alternative metal phonic treatment of Queen’s band Therapy? found maingreatest hits is fronted by singer stream success in Britain in the Joseph Clark – who could pass mid-'90s – when grunge had for Mercury – along with 'Voice taken the world by storm. Twen- of Holland' finalist Jennie Lena. ty years later, the band are still Mon 21 Nov, Royal Concertgegoing strong with their personal bouw, 20:15, €36 take on metal, which draws GIRL BAND inspiration from thrash, punk and rock. The unusual catch this Girl Band may be a somewhat time is that the guys are gonna fluffy name, but the sonic mess rely on acoustics for this tour. this Irish group creates is anyWed 16 Nov, Melkweg, 19:30, thing but. Armed with guitars €22.50 and drums, their personal noise rock takes shapes that are closer LET'S DANCE to techno and hard electronica.

A night of funk, disco and Energy levels soar but you'll also dance, turning the Ziggo Dome find a fantastic degree of songinto a discotheque and sparcraft hidden under the chaos. klefest. It brings together disco Tue 22 Nov, Bitterzoet, 21:00, legends Chic featuring Niles €10 Rogers and Robin S. Joining JEAN MICHEL JARRE them will be DJ Don Diablo and Dutch dancer Timor.

French composer and music Fri 18 & Sat 19, Ziggo Dome, producer Jean Michel Jarre was 20:00, €35-€68.50 one of the main pioneers of the electronic and ambient music advert movement. Since the '70s, the artist has released 20 studio albums and has gained a reputation for his involved, flashy live shows, often incorporating lasers and projectors into his sets.

Tue 22 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, €60.50

THE OTHER VOICE 8, 15 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

Meshuggah formed almost 30 years ago and found international fame with the release of their 1995 album, 'Destroy Erase Improve'. Ever since, Meshuggah have become increasingly popular for their blend of high-tempo, avant-garde metal and their relentless touring – this time in support of their new album 'The Violent Sleep of Reason'.

Wed 23 Nov, Melkweg, 19:00, €25 MARGARET GLASPY Outspoken American singer-songwriter Margaret Glaspy showcases her debut album in Amsterdam. Though she counts Elliott Smith and Joni Mitchell among her idols, her brutally honest indie rock songs are gritty, grungy and a little bit vicious.

Sat 26 Nov, Paradiso, 20:00, €12 TONY HADLEY English pop singer-songwriter Tony Hadley's career skyrocketed as the singer for blue-eyed soul band Spandau Ballet, but he has also had an illustrious solo career over the years.

Hailed as a 'top crooner' by the BBC, Hadley is currently embarking on a solo tour following his latest hiatus from Spandau Ballet.

Sun 27 Nov, Melkweg, 20:30, €29 PIXIES Pixies are indie icons and unlikely superstars, having influenced countless artists through the way they welded classic pop and jagged, roaring guitars to Black Francis' fragmented songwriting. They've now been reformed longer than they actually existed first time round and over the past few years attention has shifted from just playing fan favourites to actually writing and releasing new material. Their second album of new songs from this period is released this autumn.

Sun 27 Nov, Heineken Music Hall, €40 FRIGHTENED RABBIT When this Scottish indie band started out in 2004 they were as lo-fi as it gets, bashing out melody-high tracks to small audiences, living somewhere between punk and the Pixies.

As they evolved and found their audience, both in Europe and the US, their work became more anthemic and they certainly cracked a few sing-a-long classics in the process. Tonight they'll be sure to revitalise a few, alongside new tracks from 'Painting of a Panic Attack', their latest record, produced by The National's Aaron Dessner.

Mon 28 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €15

ELTON JOHN The bitch is back! Elton John KONRAD KOSELLECK BIG revisits his biggest hits at Ziggo BAND Dome, as well as dipping into An accomplished jazz pianist the (unsurprisingly) mainstream pop of his new record 'Wonder- and graduate of both Hilversum and Amsterdam conservatories, ful Crazy Night'.

Konrad Koselleck brings his Tue 22 Nov, Ziggo Dome, passion, energy and humour 20:00, €47-€57 to the fore as bandleader of the MESHUGGAH Konrad Koselleck Big Band.

Their frequent adventures in Swedish extreme metal giants

Amsterdam's Bimhuis throw up everything imaginable: jazz, cabaret, musicals, pop, rock, funk, Latin and even classical music.

Mon 28 Nov, Bimhuis, 20:30, €16 PREOCCUPATIONS When their acclaimed former band Women fell apart after an onstage fist fight, two members struck out on their own to form this garage rock outfit – initially called Viet Cong, but now rebranded as Preoccupations.

Recently they released their second album, which is brimming with psychedelic sounds, lo-fi guitar riffs and hefty post-punk atmosphere.

Tue 29 Nov, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, €15

between ambient, experimental and classical music. The concert is half-seated.

Sun 4 Dec, Paradiso, 20:30, €18 METHOD MAN & REDMAN As part of East Coast hip-hop outfit Wu-Tang Clan, rapper Method Man has enjoyed hits such as 'Gravel Pit' and 'C.R.E.A.M.' His old friend Redman (AKA Reggie Noble) has a long list of high-profile collaborations under his belt, such as 'Dirrty' with Christina Aguilera.

Tue 6 Dec, Q-Factory, 20:00, €45 WILBERT DE JOODE – BOY EDGAR AWARD 2016 The 2016 Boy Edgar Award jury paid tribute to Dutch double bassist Willem de Joode’s self-taught talent for instant composing and his exceptional knack for listening and interacting with other musicians. The prize will be presented as part of a special concert featuring musicians chosen by De Joode himself.

Wed 7 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, price to be confirmed

CHILDREN'S CONCERT: SINTERKLAAS IS JARIG! The Concertgebouw’s Children’s Concerts take children aged 4 to 12 on a wonderful journey of discovery into the world of music, instruments and musicians. During this special festive edition, the young ones will celebrate Sinterklaas's birthday TOY with Cor Bakker and a host of traditional family-friendly songs These British indie rockers are a (in Dutch). far cry from the standard 'boys 30 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, with guitars' formula: many of www.concertgebouw.nl their tracks have an electronic, noisy post-punk and psychedelic MADELEINE PEYROUX flair. The band are touring to Born in America but raised in promote the release of their Paris, Madeleine Peyroux was third full-length album, singing in the streets of the Lat'Clear Shot'. in Quarter at the tender age of Wed 7 Dec, Paradiso, 15. Her warm tones have earned 20:00, €12 her comparisons with Billie HolASH iday and Ella Fitzgerald, and her style meanders between jazz, This Northern Irish rock threeblues and singer-songwriter. piece are currently touring to Fri 2 Dec, Paradiso, 20:30, celebrate the 20th anniversary €36 of their critically and commercially acclaimed studio album TRIBUTE TO CHAKA KHAN '1977'. Written just six months With more than 70 million reafter they finished school, cords sold, a star on Hollywood’s they're ready to turn back the Walk of Fame, and global hits clock with a show that promises such as 'I’m Every Woman' and a full track-by-track perfor'Ain’t Nobody', Chaka Khan is a mance of the album – plus some household name. And now, hot added blasts from their past. on the heels after Michael Jack- Thur 8 Dec, Tolhuistuin, 20:00, son, Stevie Wonder, Nile Rodg€15 ers and Lionel Richie specials, CHAMBERTONES it’s the Queen of Funk’s turn to be honoured by drummer The Chambertones absolutely Danny Sahupala’s incomparable deserve to be called a supertribute band. group. Guitarist Jesse van RulSat 3 Dec, North Sea Jazz Club, ler, clarinetist/saxophonist Joris 21:00, €20-€25 Roelofs and bassist Clemens van der Feen all enjoy sparkling IDA NIELSEN jazz careers. The trio’s partly imDanish funk bassist and vocalist provised second album, 'Ninth Ida Nielsen has played with Planet', puts space front and several bands over the years, centre, both literally and metaeven providing backing vocals phorically. and bass grooves for Prince. She Fri 9 Dec, Royal Concertgedebuted her first solo record in bouw, 19:30, €28 2008 and is now hard at work MICHIEL BORSTLAP & on her third album, 'ShowmeSHERRY DYANNE - ODE TO whatugot'.

BILLIE HOLIDAY Sun 4 Dec, North Sea Jazz Club, 21:00, €22-€26 Jazz and soul singer Sherry Dyanne becomes Billie Holiday JÓHANN JÓHANNSSON before your eyes, recounting stoThe Icelandic composer is ries from her turbulent life and famous for his emotional and singing the legendary singer’s touching film, documentary songs with passion and authenand theatre music, having been ticity. The Netherland’s foremost nominated for two Oscars and jazz pianist, Michiel Borstlap, winning one Golden Globe for accompanies her, to make for an his scores. He is currently tourenchanting musical evening. ing to promote his album 'OrFri 9 Dec, Schouwburg Amphée', walking a beautiful line stelveen, 20:00, €19.50

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ CLASSICAL SKIP&DIE Think of electro-cumbia-reggae-hip-pop projects and Dutch bands don't typically spring to mind. But Skip&Die, fronted by the flamboyant Cata Pirata, have been grooving their way around the world to change that.

Fri 9 Dec, Paradiso, 20:00, €12.50

LETZ ZEP There'll always be fans of Led Zeppelin until the levee breaks.

Their rock and roll is a stairway to heaven for so many and only a lemon song to a minority. Even then, who doesn’t enjoy a tangerine? So break out a rain song or two for some good times, bad times. After all, this is the closest you’ll get to being dazed and confused this side of Kashmir.

Fri 16 Dec, Melkweg, 20:30, €21

CHRISTMAS CONCERT WITH COR BAKKER & LOUIS VAN DIJK Star pianists Cor Bakker and TALIB KWELI Louis van Dijk team up for a special Christmas. Joined by the American hip-hop star Talib Bach Choir of the Netherlands, Kweli is an influential political they'll be bringing some jazzy activist, so his music often conswing to traditional Christmas tains social, political and topical songs, as well as folding in a lit- themes. The rapper has enjoyed tle bit of melancholy and improv underground and mainstream where appropriate. success, also attracting some Sun 11 Dec, Royal Concertgeof the genre’s biggest names bouw, 19:30, €25 throughout his 20-year music career – past collaborations inMAC ARNOLD & PLATE clude will.i.am, Kanye West and FULL O’ BLUES Busta Rhymes.

Veteran blues artist Mac ArSun 18 Dec, Bitterzoet, 21:00, nold’s career began over 50 €17.50 years ago when he crafted his EMILIANA TORRINI & THE own musical instruments with COLORIST household objects. He ended a 10-year music hiatus in 2006, Icelandic singer-songwriter Torwhen he formed blues group rini and The Colorist Orchestra, Mac Arnold & Plate Full O’ who combine traditional orBlues. His return to the blues chestral instruments with their scene was well-received and unique homemade ones, have well-documented, and the band a successful touring history are currently touring to promote together. Together they strive to their latest album 'Give It Away'. catch audiences off guard with Sun 11 Dec, North Sea Jazz their innovative twists on her Club, 21:00, €18-€22 stirring folk and electronica.

Tue 20 Dec, Tolhuistuin, ANA MOURA 20:00, €20 It’s already been more than a RATS ON RAFTS & DE KIFT decade since Portuguese star Ana Moura made an impressive Dutch art punks De Kift, international dent with her who have been making sultry fado vocals. Along the way ground-breaking art punk music she’s performed alongside the since the '80s, and young postlikes of the Rolling Stones and punk rockers Rats on Rafts may Prince, and now she’s stopping fall on different ends of the punk off in Amsterdam to showcase spectrum, but the pairing have her sixth studio album, simply been collaborating with each titled 'Moura'. other – to much acclaim – since Sun 11 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan 2013. Expect plenty of energy, 't IJ, 20:15, €37 atmosphere and some unexpected results as they present their CHRISTMAS CONCERT: new collaborative album JAZZ ORCHESTRA Thur 22 Nov, Tolhuistion, OF THE 20:30, €15 CONCERTGEBOUW SABRINA STARKE - IMAGINE The annual Christmas concert with the Jazz Orchestra of the Rotterdammer Sabrina Starke is Concertgebouw always puts the a dreamer, a singer with a misswing back into Santa's sack. sion. In this play (in English), The acclaimed jazz ensemble she looks at the songs that have hand over the mic to acclaimed changed the world, and asks singer Roberta Gambarini, herself what contribution she while trumpeter Roy Hargove has made along the way. adds extra flair to their big band Thur 29 Dec, De Duif, 20:30, sound. €20 Mon 12 Dec, Royal ConcertgeALL ELLINGTON bouw, 20:15, €39-€56 An impressive collection of imAGAINST ME! provisation specialists are set to This punk quartet are take to the stage to form a conwell known for infusing folk temporary orchestra that's lookand protest-inspired twists to ing forward to shining a light on their punky sound. The band are all aspects of Duke Ellington's almost always touring, but their oeuvre. Hear fan favourites and latest is certainly one to look lesser-known tracks, treated out for, promoting the band’s with respect but also tackled 12-track album, 'Shape Shift with a sense of adventure. with Me' – their first full-length Thur 29 Dec, Bimhuis, 20:30, offering since their 2014 pivotal €18 album, 'Transgender Dysphoria SHOW YOUR TEETH Blues'.

Tue 13 Dec, Melkweg, Before all the NYE chaos 20:30, €17.50 commences in earnest, head to Paradiso in Amsterdam for

Choice classical

NETHERLANDS CHAMBER CHOIR & RASCHÈR SAXOPHONE QUARTET The choir and the saxophone quartet present the world premiere of the latest work by the successful US composer and artist Lera Auerbach. Inspired by the Kabbalah, '72 Angels' is a set of 72 one-minute choral preludes – one for each angel from the mystical tradition.

Auerbach combines classical composition with folk elements; her new composition is the result of years of work.

Thur 2 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31 what could be your final gig of the year. 'Show Your Teeth' is a mini-festival of sorts, curated by acclaimed Dutch indie band Bombay. As well as their own set to close the night, special guests include Concrete Knives, Cocaine Piss, Jo Goes Hunting and EUT, offering up everything from pop-punk to synth pop.

Fri 30 Dec, Paradiso, 19:00, €12.50

CLASSICAL CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM – KANON POKAJANEN This choral masterpiece by Arvo Pärt uses the words of the Canon of Repentance from the Russian-Orthodox tradition, contrasting the centuries-old text with modern music to great effect.

Wed 2 Nov, Orgelpark, 20:15, €20

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA: DIE WALKÜRE Valery Gergiev conducts the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra in the third act of Wagner's 'Walküre', with the famed Ride of the Valkyries and Brünnhilde being laid into an enchanted sleep to the sounds of the Magic Fire Music. The soloists are soprano Christine Goerke as Brünnhilde, soprano Heidi Melton as Sieglinde and baritone Michael Volle as Wotan.

Fri 9 & Sat 10 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15/21:00, €23- €154 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA: PUBLIC REHEARSAL In the tradition of the Concertgebouw's free lunch-time concerts on Wednesdays, this public rehearsal sees Trevor Pinnock conduct the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra.

Wed 9 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 12:30, free CALEFAX & REMY VAN KESTEREN: ORPHEUS The reed quintet from Amsterdam teams up with harpist Remy van Kesteren for a concert about Orpheus and Eurydice – the mythical love story that has inspired so many, including, as will be heard tonight, Britten, Ravel and Debussy.

Wed 9 November, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €31

ST PETERSBURG PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – THE RITE OF SPRING Conducted by Yuri Temirkanov, the orchestra performs 'The Rite of Spring', plus other works by Stravinsky and Ravel.

The pianist is Jean-Yves Thibaudet.

Fri 11 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €43-€114 IJ-SALON This edition of the IJ-Salon features, among others, conductor Iván Fischer and his daughter, the soprano Nora Fischer, who perform a work inspired

by Japanese NÐ theatre, and composer and chansonnier Matthias Kadar, who for today has written a new work for a large ensemble.

Sat 12 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 15:00, €27.50 B’ROCK & VOX LUMINIS This evening, hosted by two renowned baroque ensembles, is dedicated to mourning in the baroque period, which came in quite a variety at the time.

While the Frenchman Jean Gilles managed to make his requiem, or Messe des Morts, sound positively light-footed, works by English composers Dowland ('Lachrimae', or 'Seven Tears') and Purcell ('Funeral Sentences') bear a heavy melancholy.

Sat 12 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €34 CECILIA BARTOLI: HANDEL HEROINES The renowned mezzo-soprano dedicates an evening to Händel's women – from Alcina and Cleopatra to Daphne and Armida. She is accompanied by Les Musiciens du Prince, a baroque ensemble from the Opéra de Monte-Carlo.

Tue 15 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €60-€159 TRIO WANDERER The renowned French piano trio has been performing for more than 30 years. Tonight, they play Beethoven's 'Geistertrio', plus works by Fauré and Shostakovich.

Wed 16 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €34

MINGUET QUARTETT & HUELGAS ENSEMBLE Offering a synthesis of old and AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA – THE AMERICAN FOUR new music, both in perforLUNCH-TIME ORGAN RESEASONS mance practice and in compoCITAL It's a filmic evening as the ensitions, this evening sees the Organ students of the Conser- German Minguet Quartet team semble plays Glass' American Four Seasons, preluded by film vatorium, Amsterdam's music up with the Belgian Huelgas scores: Bernard Herrmann's academy, play on the church's Ensemble. While Minguet Müller organ in this free focus on classical and romantic 'Psycho, A Narrative for String Orchestra', Toru Takemitsu's monthly lunchtime concert. as well as modern music, Huel'Death & Resurrection' from Tue 8 Nov, Waalse Kerk, 12:00, gas are an early music group.

Together, they perform music 'Black Rain' and a suite by free by the renowned contemporary Jonny Greenwood (of RadioCHRISTIAN GERHAHER – composer Wolfgang Rihm, head fame) from 'There Will WINTERREISE whose much-lauded 'ET LUX' Be Blood'. references Gregorian and reThur 17 & Fri 18 Nov, MuziekThe internationally renowned naissance polyphonic singing. gebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, €37 baritone Christian Gerhaher In addition, there's a Dutch excels in both grand opera perKCOV AMSTERDAM – VERDI premiere of Rihm's 'Geste zu formances and small-scale song REQUIEM Vedova', and the Huelgas Enrecitals. Today he performs semble sings early music The KCOV Amsterdam sings Schubert's famous Winterreise

by Jacobus De Kerle.

Verdi's grand requiem, acin the Concertgebouw's recital Thur 10 Nov, companied by Het Promenade hall – a great chance to hear Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, 20:15, Orkest and conducted by Frank him in an intimate setting. €34 Hameleers.

Wed 9 Nov, Royal ConcertgeFri 18 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30-€47

nov & dec 2016

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MUSIC/CLASSICAL bouw, 20:15, €32.50/€35 SIR JOHN ELIOT GARDINER'S 19TH CENTURY There are still surprisingly few ensembles that perform grand works such as Beethoven's piano concerto no. 4 and Brahms’ Serenade no. 2 on period instruments. In step Gardiner and his Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique, demonstrating that the different sound and colour of these instruments shine a new light on the compositions and the connection between their creators. With Kristian Bezuidenhout on harpsichord.

Sat 19 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €39-€45 AMSTERDAMS GEMENGD KOOR – MOZART REQUIEM Accompanied by Het Promenade Orkest, the Amsterdam-based amateur choir sings Mozart's Requiem, preceded by Peteris Vasks' 'Dona Nobis Pacem', Barber's 'Adagio for Strings' and Górecki's 'Miserere'. Paul Valk conducts.

Sun 20 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €33.50€39.50

GAUTIER CAPUÇON & FRANK BRALEY French cellist Gautier Capuçon and his compatriot, pianist Frank Braley, perform three complex, expressive and challenging sonatas by Beethoven (who only wrote five sonatas for cello and piano in total), plus his variations on Händel's 'Judas Maccabeus'.

Wed 30 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €34-€54 TRACKS: TIES MELLEMA & AMSTEL QUARTET Saxophonist Thies Mellema and the Amstel Quartet join forces for this edition of Tracks, which combines adventurous and unusual performances with theatrical elements such as light shows.

Fri 2 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €15-€25 BACH CHOIR AND ORCHESTRA OF THE NETHERLANDS – MESSIAH The choir and orchestra

by Wilbert Bulsink and Jorge Sanchez-Chiong’s 'Final Girl 2009'.

Thur 8 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €31 SINGALONG MESSIAH If you love to flex your voice and love Händel's Messiah even more, this concert at Royal Theatre Carré is right up your street. Join in with the professional orchestra and choir, or, if you're a little more reserved, sit back and enjoy the spectacle. Tickets for singers cost €5 more at €30, but include sheet music, a rehearsal, lunch and a drink during the intermission.

Sat 10 Dec, Royal Theatre Carré, 15:00, €25 RADIO FILHARMONISCH ORKEST & GROOT OMROEPKOOR – EL NIÑO John Adams’ 'El Niño' is a modern Christmas oratorio, inspired by Händel’s Messiah.

The Groot Omroepkoor –

Choice classical

MITSUKO UCHIDA & MAHLER CHAMBER ORCHESTRA The renowned pianist plays and conducts works by Mozart just like the composer often did himself: steering the the orchestra from behind the piano. On the programme are Mozart's piano concertos nos.

17 and 25, plus the Divertimento by Bartók.

Tue 22 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €39-€102 POLSKI CHÓR KAMERALNY The Polish chamber choir presents a retrospective of Polish choral music through the centuries, beginning with a 13th-century Ave Maria and ending with works by contemporary Polish composers.

Sat 26 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €31 NELSON FREIRE Coming to the Concertgebouw as part of its long-running 'Master Pianists' series, the Brazilian pianist plays Brahms' sonata no. 3 and Godowski's 'Symphonische Metamorphosen über Johann Strauss', a variation of Die Fledermaus.<br /> Sun 27 Nov, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €46-€57.50 FLORIAN BOESCH & CHRISTIAN KOCH – REISEBUCH AUS DEN ÖSTERREICHISCHEN ALPEN The baritone Florian Boesch, accompanied by pianist Christian Koch, sings lieder

by Schubert and the practically unknown 20th-century song cycle 'Reisebuch aus den Österreichischen Alpen' by the Austrian composer Ernst KÐenek, who was influenced both by Schubert's romantic songs and by Schönberg’s modernism.

Wed 30 Nov, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €40

AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE MUSIK BERLIN: CHRISTMAS CONCERT The renowned early-music ensemble comes to Amsterdam for a baroque Christmas celebration. They made their name through Bach interpretations, and found acclaim for their take on Händel and Telemann. Now they'll seal the deal with Santa, too. They're joined by the baritone Dietrich Henschel for parts of the Messiah and kindred works by Bach, Händel, Telemann, Scarlatti, Vivaldi and Purcell.

Sat 10 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €37. perform Händel's powerful masterpiece in the setting the composer himself used for the world premiere in Dublin.

Olga Zinovieva is the solo soprano and baroque expert Pieter Jan Leusink conducts.

Various dates between Tue 6 and Wed 28 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 19:30, 28 Dec also 14:15, €30-€85 ASKO|SCHÖNBERG & SLAGWERK DEN HAAG – IN BETWEEN The ensembles perform works that straddle styles and genres, from classical through electronica to rock drumming: Glenn Kotche’s 'Time Passages' (a new work), Michel van der Aa’s 'Between / Attach', a world premiere of a new work

the Dutch Radio Choir – is supported by the Nationaal Kinderkoor, the national Dutch children's choir, and Markus Stenz conducts the Radio Philharmonic.

Sat 10 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €33-€38 KCOV EXCELSIOR – CHRISTMAS ORATORIO Get into the festive spirit as the large amateur choir sings Bach's much-loved Christmas Oratorio.

Sun 11 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €33-€45 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA & LISA BATIASHVILI Conducted by Daniele Gatti, the Royal Concertgebouw

Orchestra is joined by violinist Lisa Batiashvili, this season’s artist in residence at the RCO. The evening begins with Prokofiev’s airy violin concerto no.2, which has elements of both Russian and Spanish folk music. Fittingly, this is then followed by works by Stravinsky and Ravel.

Wed 14 & Thur 15 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30€141.90 CHRISTMAS CLASSICS AT THE MOVIES Don’t expect popcorn, but apart from that, this evening has all the ingredients for an enchanted Christmas movie night, as the Aachen Youth Choir, the Aachen Opera Chorus, the Aachen Symphony Choir and the Aachen Symphony Orchestra perform music from classic Christmas films such as 'Elf ', 'Home Alone', 'White Christmas', 'Love Actually' and 'The Snowman'.

Fri 16 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €35-€99 BACH CHOIR AND ORCHESTRA OF THE NETHERLANDS: CHRISTMAS BAROQUE The choir and orchestra are joined by soprano Olga Zinovieva for a festive baroque programme, which includes the sixth cantata from Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and ’Winter’ from Vivaldi's Four Seasons.

Sat 18 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €30-€85 CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM – HODIE CHRISTUS NATUS EST The choir performs festive works by the 17th-century masters Heinrich Schütz and Jan Pieterszoon Sweelinck, plus Arvo Pärt’s Magnificat and Nunc dimittis.

Sun 18 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 15:00, €31 NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA: CHRISTMAS CONCERT The programme of this Christmas concert by the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra focusses on fairytales, with music from Humperdinck’s Hänsel und Gretel and a story set in 19th-century Russia by Khachaturian.

Mon 19 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €23-€54 LUNATREE: JOHN ADAMS The ensemble dedicates a concert to John Adams, with a programme set around his work 'Gnarly Buttons'. Other composers on the programme include Glass, Van Rossum, Marinissen and Rzewski.

Tue 20 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €23-€36 NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY – HOHE MESSE Bach’s Hohe Messe (High Mass) is one of the composer's last choral works. It is widely admired and unusual in that it is a setting of the complete or-

dinary of the Latin Mass – an uncommon form for a Lutheran composer. The Netherlands Bach Society performs the work as a Christmas concert.

Thur 22 Dec, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 19:30, €40 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA – CHRISTMAS ORATORIO Conducted by Trevor Pinnock, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra performs Bach’s festive masterpiece.

Fri 23 & Sun 25 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15/14:15, €30-€129 CHRISTMAS WITH COMBATTIMENTO In the Concertgebouw’s Recital Hall, the ensemble performs the musical equivalent of a brisk Christmas morning walk through freshly fallen snow, with baroque Christmas classics from Corelli, Bach, Pachelbel and Manfredini.

Sun 25 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 11:00, €20-€26 HABSBURG STRAUSS ORCHESTRA: WIEN BLEIBT WIEN The orchestra performs highlights from the Viennese operetta repertoire for some light-hearted Christmas fun.

It is joined by soprano Natalya Kraevsky and tenor Morschi Franz.

Mon 26 Dec, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €32.50/€37.50

ADDRESSES Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 www.bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 www.bitterzoet.com De Duif Prinsengracht 756 www.deduif.net Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 https://carre.nl Sugarfactory Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 Y www.ziggodome.nl

Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age

T

hirty colossal, 17th century group portraits can now be seen together for the first time in the Hermitage Amsterdam. These ‘brothers and sisters’ of the Night Watch are unique in the world and rarely exposed due to their size. They show us regents, civic guards and merchants of all ranks, social classes and religions, standing together, united.

Rembrandt’s ‘The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Deijman’ and portraits of civic guards including Govert Flinck and Nicolaes Pickenoy are but a few examples of the monumental works of art that are on view in the Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age. Due to its success the Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age has been renewed for the next few years.

TI C KETS JCK.N L/ NHM

FILM INSTALLATION BY

k.364

D O UG LAS G O RD O N FROM 6 NOVEMBER 2016 UNTIL 19 FEBRUARY 2017

Hermitage Amsterdam | Amstel 51 | portraitgalleryofthegoldenage.com

THE WORLD'S BEST ICE SCULPTURES! Starts December 10, 2016 Ends February 5, 2017

Arena Boulevard AMSTERDAM ZUIDOOST

WWW.ICESCULPTUREFESTIVAL.COM

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nov & dec 2016

VISITOR INFORMATION

VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

I AMSTERDAM STORE Discover the best of Amsterdam here. Real Amsterdam products and the best tips on everything you want to know about the city. Come and take a look!

In the IJ Hall (inside Central Station) Open Mon-Wed 8:00-19:00, Thur-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance.

The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy.

Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00) info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres) I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

SPECIAL OFFER FOR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD HOLDERS! Purchase the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket for a special price of €10. Combine the 24-hour public bus pass with the I amsterdam City Card and make good use of both products! This offer is availabe at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres at Stationsplein and Schiphol Airport, and in the I amsterdam Store.

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region for 24 hours – day and night – by bus, tram and metro. There are many attractive options like Haarlem, a city of remarkable history and culture. Visit the hidden almshouse, take a cruise on the Spaarne River or visit the Frans Hals or Teylers Museum (photo). The city is also known for its excellent shopping and many nice teahouses and restaurants. Or you can visit the Zaanse Schans, with its windmills and lovely village. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from the I amsterdam Visitor Centres, the I amsterdam Store or at GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

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A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT WWW.AMSTERDAMART.COM.

1. WEDNESDAY MINCEMEAT DAY (TRANS-ATLANTIS)

Joep van Liefland is a conceptual artist whose work focuses on the impermanence and disappearance of technological progress. He arranges outdated distribution and storage devices into installations, sculptures, wall objects, screen prints, and collages.



25 NOV – 28 JAN Van Zijll Langhout / Contemporary Art Brouwersgracht 161

2. LIBBY LIBBY LIBBY

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Verhoeven focuses on the beautiful Libby, an artist and local café employee around whom Verhoeven’s entire Berlin neighborhood seems to orbit. In her paintings, she explores the artist-muse relationship. She attempts to capture this charismatic young woman as she appears to be while using her as an actor, a stand-in for the artist herself.

25 NOV – 24 DEC Stigter Van Doesburg Elandsstraat 90

3. EXPLODED VIEW

Benjamin Roth is interested in the construction of paintings. In his most recent series he focuses on the classical relationship between the canvas and the stretchers, painting on the back of a transparent canvas so that its function changes from support to protector.

19 NOV – 24 DEC Benjamin Roth Planciusstraat 7

4. LATE PAINTINGS AND DRAWINGS

This is the first Amsterdam exhibition of rare late paintings and drawings by the visionary artist Judit Reigl. As early as 1954 André Breton invited her to exhibit at a Paris gallery specializing in surrealism, and touted her as the great hope for the future of painting.

11 NOV – 3 FEB The Merchant House Herengracht 254

5. SWEET LEAF

The films and paintings of the Quistrebert brothers are hallucinatory works based on mathematical principles, where sculptural considerations explicitly claim a role within the flat surface of the painting or video screen.

UNTIL 10 DEC Juliette Jongma Gerard Doustraat 128 A

FILM FAVOURITES LOOKING FOR AMERICA

In the run-up to the elections, the EYE Film Museum offers us a tantalizing gaze into the United States, as seen by some of America’s most renowned independent filmmakers. From Easy Rider, Slacker and Paris is Burning, to works by Andy Warhol, Terrence Malick and Spike Lee. Looking for America Until 21 December at EYE

HACKSAW RIDGE

Yes, we know. For most Mel Gibson is still tainted goods, but it’s hard not to get excited for Hacksaw Ridge, his first directional effort since Apocalypto (2006), about private Desmond Doss (Andrew Garfield), the first conscientious objector who received a Medal of Honor for his bravery during World War II – without ever firing a gun.

Directed by: Mel Gibson Release: 3 November

IN THE PURSUIT OF SILENCE

We live in a world where sound is almost always ‘on’.

Yet (amplified) sound and noise can be more harmful than you think. So sit back, relax, and listen to the different sounds of silence in this surprisingly moving documentary.

Directed by: Patrick Shen Release: 3 November

REMAINDER

When a freak accident leaves him with a big pay-off but no recollection of his past, a young man (Tom Sturridge) uses the money to recreate events from the life he thinks he had. Promising and enigmatic feature-film debut by video artist Omer Fast, with a whiff of Memento.

Directed by: Omer Fast Release: 3 November

SHADOW WORLD

If this insightful (and frightening) documentary doesn’t make you mad as hell, probably not much else will.

Shadow World shows the irresistible lure of the global arms trade on world politics.

Why make peace when you can make so much more

money waging war?

Director: Johan Grimonprez Release: 17 November

DA BOUNCE URBAN FILM FESTIVAL

Don’t let the bouncy title fool you. The third edition of Da Bounce Urban Film Festival – a three-day festival with films and debates centered on African-American, African-Caribbean and African-European culture – is a force to be reckoned with.

Opening film will be The Birth of a Nation by director-actor Nate Parker.

4-6 November Pathé, Ketelhuis. www.dbuff.nl

NOCTURNAL ANIMALS

With this sophomore feature, fashion designer turned director Tom Ford shows us he’s no one-trick pony. Nocturnal Animals is both better and more ambitious than A Single Man. When art gallery owner Susan (Amy Adams) suddenly receives a manuscript written by her ex-husband (Jake Gyllenhaal), her life quickly spirals out of control.

Directed by: Tom Ford Release: 1 December

LA LA LAND

Who would have thought that Damian Chazelle, director of the gritty school band drama Whiplash, also had the delightfully sweet musical La La Land in him, where even the clothes of our two lovelorn protagonists (Emma Stone and Ryan Gosling, reunited after Crazy, Stupid, Love and Gangster Squad) are colour-coordinated with their surroundings?

Directed by: Damian Chazelle Release: 22 December

I, DANIEL BLAKE

What the Dardennes brothers are to Belgium, Ken Loach (Kes, My Name is Joe) is to the UK: a sharp observer of the social classes most mainstream movies would rather forget even exist.

After a heart attack, middle-aged carpenter Daniel Blake isn’t fit enough to work, yet too fit for state welfare.

Directed by: Ken Loach Release: 24 November

nov & dec 2016

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CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING HOTEL TROPIQUE Dance with a view of the city while Amsterdam’s own up and coming producer Philou Louzolo plays an exciting mix of afro-house, disco and funk. Tonight’s guest is Thris Tian, one of the people behind globally successful Boiler Room concept.

Fri 4 Nov, Canvas, 23:00, €10

08:00, €19 GEROEZEMOES Disco and (deep) house in the main room plus R&B bangers on the smaller dancefloor. DJs Mikey Biemans, Jack Delhi and The Thing Behind.

Sat 12 Nov, Club Up, 23:0005:00, €10

IN BETWEEN WORLDS Mike Green aka Fort Romeau (Live at Robert Johnson, Ghostly International), a Mr Fingers HOUSE RULES inspired house producer from London, headlines this very House night with DJ Raymundo decent line-up with Cinnaman and friends. (formerly of Rush Hour ReEvery Fri, Escape, 23:00, €10 cords), Locked Groove and In NOOFILTER Between worlds also DJ-ing.

Fri 18 Nov, Escape, 23:00, €16 Mainly house tonight by Mike Risk, once the main man behind WELCOME TO THE FUTURE the now defunct clubbing emExpect techno-heavy sounds, pire Club Risk.

Sat 5 Nov, Canvas, 23:00, €10 plus a bit of house to be spun by Cari Lekebusch, Function, BenBRAINWASH ny Rodrigues, Detroit Swindle, Jackmaster, Steve Rachmad, Rembrandtplein’s go to casual Nuno Dos Santos, Daniel Sanhouse night. chez, Arjuna Schiks (live) and Every Sat, Escape, 23:00many others.

05:00, €16 Sat 19 Nov, Warehouse ElemenFATIMA YAMAHA tenstraat, 12:00-02.00, €42.50 Bas Bron aka Fatima Yamaha MORE BOUNCE is the beat maker of one of The Disco, boogie and other funky Netherlands’ finest and funniest stuff spun by Dean High, Lucas hiphop groups De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig. As of late, Bron Benjamin, Rob Manga and L33.

Fri 18 Nov, Canvas, 23:00, €10 scored a huge underground hit with ‘What’s A Girl To Do’ KOFFIE VERKEERD due to Dekmantel re-releasing Soulful floor fillers with Mr the track after it first came out Speak, D-Rok and Alex Klerk. ten years ago. What does that sound like? Think chilled out li- Sat 19 Nov, Canvas, 23:00, €10 brary-style synth music; perfect MOOD for a lazy school night.

Melodic house and techno with Tue 8 Nov & Wed 9 Nov, De DJs Cecilio & Laurine playing School, 20:00 - midnight, €15 back to back, Mark Antoni, JaiSILENT me Frias and Joris Zwetsloo.

Inaptly-named club night filled Sat 19 Nov, Canvas, 23:00, €11 with driving techno performed JEAN-MICHEL JARRE LIVE

by Benny Rodrigues’ techno alter ego ROD, Ringo (live) and There’s really something cheesy about seeing someone who Sub Division. made his last notable song over Fri 11 Nov, RADION, 23:00, 30 years ago, but please try to €12.50 forget about that and go see VOLTT Jean-Michel Jarre, the Frenchman behind classic easy listenThis is what your mum thinks is techno: banging and monot- ing electronic albums ‘Oxygene’ and ‘Equinoxe’. Buy these two onous. DJs Paul Ritch out of France plus resident Bart Skils. LPs second hand at Concerto for Fri 11 Nov, ITW Loods, NDSM, two euros, get excited and then spend 30 times two euros on 23:00-08.00, €18 your ticket.

CHEMISTRY: TIMELESS Tue 22 Nov, Heineken Music ALTITUDE Hall, 20:00, €60 A clubbing night out that should INNOVATION IN THE DAM bring back memories if you’re super old - as in you went raving A massive event by drum & bass institution Innovation with an in the 1990s. Chemistry was almost 100% British line-up: a very famous night held at Andy C, Blackley, Dominator, Escape where DJs like Marcello Hype, Modified Motion, Nicky would invite American heroes Blackmarket, Phantasy, Nu like Carl Craig and Derrick May Elements, Ragga Twins and at a time when it did not yet many more including a crew of make you yawn because you 10 (!) MCs. hadn’t seen them spin before.

Fri 25 Nov, Melkweg, 21:00Sat 12 Nov, De Marktkantine, 05:00, €45 21:00-05.00, €15

NICHOLAS JAAR LIVE A regular headliner of ‘serious’ electronic music festivals such as Dekmantel, Nicholas Jaar and his soft, washed-out soundscape-influenced electronic sets hit a soft spot with many people

bouncy and super fast tonight.

You’d almost think veteran DJs Tom Harding, JP, Rob Tissera, Andy Farley, BK and MC Marxman feel like they’ve got something to prove to themselves playing all that hardstyle, hard

Choice clubbing

WEVAL (LIVE) The world is familiar with successful Dutch trance and EDM household names such as Martin Garrix, Tiësto and Sidney Samson, but it doesn’t happen very often that a serious local electronic live act becomes as popular as former film students Weval are now. The Kompakt Records signees have been sharing stages with the likes of Dixon, Mark Kinchen and Kink internationally, and this anticipated homecoming show is likely to sell out, so be quick.

Thur 29 Dec, Paradiso, 19:00-23.00, €14.

sic Hall, 23:00-05.00, €35 FADE BLANK We’re approaching the darkest day of the year so what better time to invite Alexey Volkov, a Berlin based artist inspired by cold industrial and EBM music from the 80s. When DJ-ing Volkov adds contemporary techno and electro flavours to his sets. Denise Rabe and Ben Buitendijk play uncomfortable music, too.

Fri 16 Dec, RADION, 23:00, €14 VALHALLA FESTIVAL Where are the festivals when you need them most: in wintertime? Luckily, there is the fifth volume of Valhalla. The festival, stating on its website that it will deliver a ‘bizarre ride’, is musically easy-going, if you like techno that is. DJs Benny Rodrigues, Agoria, Paco Osuna, George Fitzgerald, De Sluwe Vos, Marcel Fengler, JP Enfant, Juan Sanchez, Sandrien, Eats Everything, Skream and Olivier Weiter.

Sat 17 Dec, RAI, 22:30-07.00, €47.50 AMSTERDAM SOUNDSYSTEM WEEKENDER Reggae and dub festival organized by Amsterdam’s prime Jamaica-style selectors crew King Shiloh.

Fri 23-Sat 24 Dec, Elementenstraat, 22:00-05:00, €20 PERCEP-TION For those who can’t be bothered staring at the nativity scene under the Christmas tree any longer, there’s always techno.

DJs Alexander Koning and Mike Ravelli.

Sat 24 Dec, Elementenstraat, 22:00-05:00, €20

HI-TECH SOUL MOVEMENT: DIMITRI ALL NIGHT LONG Back in the nineties Dimitri Kneppers used to run a night in RoXY. He would occasionally invite American innovators of house and techno but what people came for were the resident DJ’s own marathon sets where he mixed melodies rather than beats.

Word of mouth brought people to line up outside one of the most fondly remembered clubs of Amsterdam.

Fri 2 Dec, Recycle Lounge Gallery Club, 21:00-04:00, €17.50.

THE BEGINNING Classics, classics, classics in many different house, techno and gabba styles spun by a top-notch line-up of elderly jocks including Miss Djax (of the world-famous Djax-UpBeats label), DJ Dano (read his biography ‘Wat de Fok Ouwe’), Belgium’s Steve Cop (a very rare appearance), Jaydee (who’s hired to play his hit ‘Plastic Dreams’, Buzz Fuzz, Gizmo, Remy, Marcello, Eric Nouhan, Natarcia and many others.

Sat 5 Nov, RADION, 22:00, €20.

DE SLUWE VOS ALL NIGHT LONG Robert Vosmeijer aka De Sluwe Vos (The Sly Fox) has gained some international traction over the past few years; his ‘OG Anthem’ got regular spins from Joy Orbison, Bicep, DJ Sneak and Boddika. For fans of groovy house and techno and anyone keen to check out this brand new club in the A’dam Tower.

Sat 26 Nov, Shelter, 23:0008:00, €15 AWAKENINGS EARLY NEW YEAR SPECIAL December 30th is the new December 31st. Get yourself ready for 2017 before anyone else while you bounce to the sounds of Kink (live), Tale of Us, Maceo Plex, Joseph Capriati, Hito and above all Canadian super producer Richie Hawtin.

Fri 30 Dec, Gashouder, 22:0008.00, €49.50

AWAKENINGS NEW YEARS trance and hard house. who otherwise listen and dance DJ KENTARO EVE SPECIAL BOM VOYAGE Fri 9 Dec, Melkweg, 21:00to much more banging material.

Sonic madness guaranteed with 06.00, €17 Expect decent, hard hitting four Find the psychedelic If you’re looking to get a first Kentaro who in 2002, aged 20, introduction to ambient music, to the floor beats nevertheless hippie inside and dance to the FEEST TO BLACK with Swedish veteran Adam psy trance, goa trance and other became first at the world famous this is your night.

DMC World DJ Final. Boogie Diplo affiliate and Dutch king Beyer headlining (and closing genres with mind bending fast Sat 3 Dec, Paradiso, 19:00hard while this Ninja Tune of bombastic and eclectic party from 4 til 6) plus Secret Cinema paced rhythms and melodies.

22.30, €27.50 music FeestDJRuud will bring vs Egbert, Pan-Pot, Bart Skils DJs Arjuna, Back to Mars, Dogo signed master of turn-tablism TOM HARDING & down the walls of the HMH b2b Paul Ritc and Juan Sanchez. and Krazy Kids help you expand checks the Technics. See if you JP PRESENT can follow it. during his last two gigs.

Sat 31 Dec, Gashouder, 20:00your mind on the dance floor.

06.00, €49.50 Sat 12 Nov, ITW Loods, 23:00- Fri 2 Dec, Paradiso, 23:00, €10 Every single kick will be hard, Fri 9-Sat 10 Dec, Heineken Mu-

68

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GAY & LESBIAN Choice LGBT REGULAR EVENTS

MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas.

Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only.

NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits.

Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15, various prices.

SAUNA NZ Every Tuesday is "No Towel Night" (totally naked) at Sauna NZ. You will get a normal towel to dry yourself off and a small towel to sit on and to pat yourself dry. Come and check out the sexy vibe from 18:00 till 00:00.

Every Tue, Sauna NZ, www.saunanieuwezijds.nl (Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam. The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted.

Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited.

Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, 22:00-05:00, €10.

ONE-OFF EVENTS PINK KUNSTLIJN Three days, 300 contemporary artists: Haarlem’s art galleries, museums, churches, shops and other special locations become exhibition spaces to celebrate contemporary art. In addition to the 'normal' Kunstlijn there is a Pink Kunstlijn, an initiative

EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam! Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes allow you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own. every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com

GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every first Wednesday of the month Pathé de Munt shows a special gay classic movie. The reception - with a welcome drink - usually starts at 20:30, the movie itself starts at 21:00. Check the Pathe website for which movie is on and exact starting time. www.pathe.nl/event/gaynight GARBO FOR WOMEN A special women-only dance party every third Saturday of the month.

Club Lite, www.garboforwomen.nl

SPORTS

AJAX As well as upcoming home league matches, catch Amsterdam's top football club in Europa League action: Celta Vigo (European, 3 Nov), NAC (20 Nov), Panathinaikos (European, 24 Nov), Groningen (4 Dec).

Nov & Dec, Amsterdam ArenA, www.ajax.nl LOVEDANCE Helping to raise both money and awareness on World AIDS Day with a loud, colourful and fun approach to a serious issue, Lovedance always features a huge and varied line-up of artists, musicians, bands, DJs, dancers and other performers.

1 Dec, Paradiso, www.lovedance.nl. of several LGBTQ organizations, showcasing works that revolve around increasing acceptance of homosexuality.

The weekend ends with a masquerade party at Gather..

4-6 Nov, Various locations in Haarlem, www.kunstlijnhaarlem.nl CIRKUS KLAUTERWERCK A very underground gay party in a squatters' village tight outside of Amsterdam, for gays and their friends.

12 Nov, Ruigoord, www.cirkusklauterwerck.nl GARBO FOR WOMEN Garbo for Women Amsterdam takes place in Club Lite as part of the 2016 EuroPride / Amsterdam Gay Pride programme. Lesbian and bisexual women can seek each other out in the relaxed atmosphere of this women-only club night, while eating, drinking, and above all, dancing.

Sat 26 Nov & 24 Dec, 18:00, €8 www.garboforwomen.nl INTERNATIONAL QUEER AND MIGRANT FILM FESTIVAL This year’s main focus will be on Latin America where recent political developments make for a very unstable climate, which leads to oppression and migration. One of the debates during the festival will be about social acceptance of the LGBTQ-community in Brazil; another will be about LGBTQ-phobia and islamophobia. New this year will be an IQMF Academy, a three-day workshop for 15 young, international queer and migrant filmmakers.

7-11 Dec, De Balie, www.iqmf.nl VALHALLA FESTIVAL The festival, stating on its website that it will deliver a ‘bizarre ride’, is musically

easy-going, if you like techno that is. DJs Benny Rodrigues, Agoria, Paco Osuna, George Fitzgerald, De Sluwe Vos, Marcel Fengler, JP Enfant, Juan Sanchez, Sandrien, Eats Everything, Skream and Olivier Weiter.

Sat 17 Dec, RAI, 22:30-07.00, €47.50 www.valhallafestival.nl ADDRESSES Amstel Fifty Four Amstel 54 www.amstelfiftyfour.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 www.clubnyx.nl Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Hotel Arena 's-Gravesandestraat 5 www.hotelarena.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Prik Spuistraat 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20 www.queenshead.nl Saarein Elandsstraat 119-HS www.saarein2.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 www.warehouseamsterdam. com

FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters.

11 Nov, 9 Dec, Olympic Stadium, www.fridaynightrun.nl ICE SKATING AT JAAP EDEN If you're serious about your ice skating, the Jaap Eden IJsbaan is the city's main ice rink, hosting daily skate sessions from October through March. As well as an indoor arena, there's a 400-metre outdoor track.

Nov & Dec, Jaap Eden IJsbaan, www.jaapeden.nl NETHERLANDS VS. BELGIUM The Netherlands and Belgium will clash in what is sure to be an energetic football match between the longstanding rivals.

9 Nov, Amsterdam ArenA, www.amsterdamarena.nl OLYMPISCH STADIONLOOP The Stadionloop in the Zuid District of the city is the final event in the Rondje Mokum (Amsterdam Circuit) programme of running competitions. Alongside the pro-

fessional 10km event, there’s also a 5km and 10km event for recreational runners.

13 Nov, Olympic Stadium, www.olympischstadionloop.nl ICE*AMSTERDAM ICE*Amsterdam presents a unique ice skating experience on Amsterdam's Museumplein, with the Rijksmuseum as a phenomenal backdrop! from 18 Nov, Museumplein, www.iceamsterdam.nl NETHERLANDS VS. MOLDOVA The Netherlands and Moldova vie for a chance to get one step closer to winning the 2016-17 Rugby Europe Trophy this November.

19 Nov, NRCA Stadium, www.rugby.nl THE NETHERLANDS VS. ESTONIA The Netherlands (or the Orange Angels as they're also known) and Estonia clash in women's basketball this autumn.

23 Nov, Sporthallen Zuid, www.basketball.nl MOVEMBER RUN AMSTERDAM Proudly perform your slowest 5km run of the season, as that free-flowing moustache you've grown for Movember drags you back in the winter wind! This event's not just for men though: ladies can participate as well, so join the cause and race through Amsterdam's Vondelpark.

26 Nov, Vondelpark, www.movemberrun.nl UNIVÉ GYM GALA: A TOUCH OF GOLD A Touch of Gold promises an eclectic mix of sport and entertainment. Following a stellar year for gymnastics at the Rio 2016 Olympic Games, top gymnasts and international entertainment acts showcase what they do best.

29 Dec, Ziggo Dome, www.gymgala.nl

Highlight sports

SIX DAY AMSTERDAM The Six Day Amsterdam races, first held in 1932, have a strong tradition in the city. After a brief pause, the twowheeled action kicks back in again this year, inviting top cyclists from the Netherlands and abroad to compete across the main track disciplines, such as the madison, derny races, sprints and time trials. It's fun to watch track cycling on TV, but even better in person as these high-flying cyclists roar past you at close range.

6-11 Dec, Velodrome Amsterdam, www.sixdayamsterdam.com.

With the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket you can travel 24 hours by bus, tram and metro in and around Amsterdam.

Price â&#x201A;Ź13.50

rdam City Card e st m a I r u o y h it w t e Purchase this tick vely available si u cl x e is r e ff o is h T t. and get â&#x201A;Ź3.50 discoun erdam and st m A in s e tr n e C r o it is at the I amsterdam V /citycard m o .c m a rd e st m a .i w w Schiphol Airport. w

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CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond amsterdam

‘HEARTLESS RETOUCHING SHOULD NOT BE THE CHOSEN TOOL TO REPRESENT WOMEN IN THE BEGINNING OF THIS CENTURY.’ PETER LINDBERGH

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

KUNSTLIJN HAARLEM Three days, 300 contemporary artists: Haarlem’s art galleries, museums, churches, shops and other special locations turn the city upside down and become exhibition spaces to celebrate contemporary art at Kunstlijn (‘Art Line’). This year’s theme is 'About Tomorrow', featuring works by solo and group artists who reflect on the future and human innovation, but also look way ahead towards the day after tomorrow. In addition to the 'normal' Kunstlijn, there is a Pink Kunstlijn, an initiative of several LGBTQ organisations, showcasing works that revolve around increasing acceptance of homosexuality. The weekend ends with Art Night, with a masquerade party at Gather.

4-6 November Haarlem www.kunstlijnhaarlem.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Haarlem from Central Station several times every hour. Travel time: 15 minutes.

MORNING BLOSSOMS The images of the tsunami that devastated Sri Lanka in 2004 remain vivid to us all: flooded streets, swimming cars and destroyed homes – lives lost. In an epic theatrical production, the tragedy surrounding this natural disaster brings together 10 dancers, 12 singers and 40 live musicians from all over the world to tell the story of Asuka (played by Céline Purcell), who was separated from her daughter during the tsunami and led the community’s search for their missing children. The Netherlands Symphony Orchestra performs the music with two leading soloists – the songs are in English, with Dutch surtitles. The tragic, touching performance is on tour during the month of November, visiting Haarlem, Utrecht, Heerlen, Tilburg and Groningen.

From November 3 Various locations www.morningblossoms.nl

PETER LINDBERGH A monumental exhibition of Peter Lindbergh’s timeless black-and-white work, ‘A Different Vision on Fashion Photography’ encompasses not only an extensive range of the iconic German photographer’s oeuvre from 1978 to the present day, but also many exclusive and previously unseen material such as personal notes, storyboards, props, Polaroids and contact sheets. Presented as a narrative that unveils Lindbergh’s universe, the exhibition is organised thematically in nine different sections, including an exclusive Rotterdam gallery that showcases the photographer’s shoot with Dutch supermodel Lara Stone in the Port of Rotterdam.

Until 12 February 2017 Kunsthal Rotterdam, Westzeedijk 341 www.kunsthal.nl

GETTING THERE: Hop on the Intercity Direct train to Rotterdam, then catch tram 7 to the Kievitslaan stop.

Travel time: 1 hour.

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‘HAVE A HEART THAT NEVER HARDENS, AND A TEMPER THAT NEVER TIRES, AND A TOUCH THAT NEVER HURTS.’

‘HO HO HO’

CHARLES DICKENS

DORDRECHT CHRISTMAS MARKET With over 200 stalls laden with foods, gifts and Christmas decorations, this is the largest Christmas market in the Netherlands. A 2.5-kilometre stroll through the city and along the illuminated Dordrecht harbour, it’s peppered by family attractions, such as merry-go-rounds and petting zoos, and performance stages with Christmas carolers.

16-18 December Dordrecht www.kerstmarktdordrecht.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Dordrecht from Central Station several times per hour, but it’s actually faster to hop on an Intercity Direct to Rotterdam and switch there. Travel time: 1 hour.

© MEISJE MET EEN BREDE HOED CA. 1650-1660 DOEK, 92,2 X 81,7 CM COLLECTIE RIJKSMUSEUM, AMSTERDAM

© PETER LINDBERGH

SANTA CLAUS

PAINTING BEAUTY This year, master of Dutch Classicism Caesar van Everdingen would have been 400 years years old, the opportunity for the Stedelijk Museum of Alkmaar to celebrate with a special exhibition of his work. Born in Alkmaar, the painter was famous for his fluid renditions of fabrics – velvety, textured, glossy and incredibly lifelike, today restored and revealing even more luscious intricate details. Looking forward as well as back, the museum also turns the spotlight on a modernday celebrity who has a special bond with fabrics, fashion designer Edwin Oudshoorn, who pays homage to the 17th-century artist with three textile stilllifes created especially for this exhibition.

Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar Until 22 January 2017 www.stedelijkmuseumalkmaar.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Alkmaar from Central Station every 10-15 minutes. From there it’s a quick 10-minute walk to the Museum. Travel time: 45 minutes.

DICKENS FESTIVAL For two days, the 19th-century world of Charles Dickens comes to life in the historic centre of Deventer. Hundreds of characters from his famous books can be found strolling around the city, from Scrooge to Oliver Twist, and from Mr Pickwick to the Christmas Carol singers – and of course, all the orphans, drunkards, clerks and posh gentlemen.

The Great Church, which has a great indoor terrace for a warm drink and a holiday snack, is also home to an indoor/outdoor Christmas market, which features more than 75 different stalls selling Christmas decorations, toys, clothes and handicrafts.

17-18 December Deventer www.dickensfestijn.nl

GETTING THERE: There are direct trains to Deventer from Central Station every hour.

Travel time: 75 minutes.

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CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

PARMENTIER, GEYSSENDORFER AND THE FOKKER F8 Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

73

nov & dec 2016

HIROSHI SUGIMOTO FOAM treats us to the eerie poetic world of the Japanese photographer.

FOAM Until 8 March www.foam.org

Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam has grown into a leading world fashion event.

Westergasfabriek 10-20 January www.fashionweek.nl HYENA-JACKAL-VULTURE, 1976 © HIROSHI SUGIMOTO

~

PRINCE IGOR

The Rijksmuseum presents a major exhibition about South Africa and the Netherlands from 1600 to 1994.

ED VAN DER ELSKEN

~

Rijksmuseum From 17 February www.rijksmuseum.nl

Stedelijk gives us a monumental retrospective on the works of the essential Dutch street photographer.

Stedelijk Museum From 4 February www.stedelijk.nl

© ED VAN DER ELSKEN

GOOD HOPE

A dream-like staging of the controversial opera is on at the DNO, in collaboration with the New York Met.

~

VEREENIGDE FOTOBUREAUX N.V. ARCHIEF LUCHTHAVEN SCHIPHOL

FASHION WEEK

~

UNTIL 27 NOVEMBER Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

JAN & FEB 2017

~

100 YEARS OF SCHIPHOL In 1934, as part of the Melbourne Centenary celebrations, there was a London-to-Melbourne Air Race – also known as the MacRobertson Air Race, after the wealthy confectionery manufacturer who shelled out the funds for the astronomical $75,000 cash prize. Towards the end of the 18,200-kilometre flight, the KLM DC-2 propeller plane (nicknamed the Uiver, or ‘pollinator’) piloted

by Parmentier got caught in a thunderstorm. It ended up hopelessly lost over Albury in New South Wales, where locals rushed to the rescue: the chief electrical engineer at the post office signaled ‘Albury’ to the Uiver by turning the town lights on and off, and the announcer on a local radio station asked the townsfolk to line up their cars on the racecourse and turn on their headlights to create a makeshift landing strip.

Parmentier landed safely, and the entire town helped him pull the aircraft out of the mud the next day after the storm had passed, allowing him to resume his flight and arrive second in the race – which won him first place on handicap. In gratitude, the Mayor of Albury was awarded a title in the Dutch nobility and KLM made a large donation to the local hospital.

NEXT ISSUE

Dutch National Opera & Ballet 7-26 February www.operaballet.nl

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CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

SOLEDAD PECORARO, 31, AND JOSE MUÑOZ, 32, SHOPKEEPERS FROM SPAIN ‘We know it seems obvious, but the Red Light District is really something. We’ve never seen anything like it. It’s very lively and ‘colourful’, but also beautiful and historical, so it makes for a very interesting stroll.'

MONTE MCCANN, 32, FROM NEVADA, WORKS IN TOURISM ‘I come here often and my favourite spot is The Grasshopper. I love that it’s right there outside of Central Station when I first arrive. They lost their coffeeshop license but they make great steaks, and the atmosphere is always friendly and relaxed.’

NICOLAS PHAN, 25, IT SPECIALIST FROM FRANCE ‘Just walk, walk and walk some more – the Canal Belt is just gorgeous and there is so much to see.’

MARIANNA GRASSI, 21, STUDENT FROM MILAN, ITALY MALLORY BACHES, 40, URBAN DESIGNER FROM BEAUFORT, NC, IN THE USA ‘I know the queues are long, but you must go to the Anne Frank House. We all read the book when we were younger and it’s pretty powerful to see it for real. It gives the diaries a whole new dimension.’

‘I would say my favourite part of Amsterdam is my boyfriend, obviously – but I’m also really in awe of the architecture. Not just the historical centre, but also many different neighbourhoods with more modern buildings, such as the Eastern Islands or Nieuw-West.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Elysia Brenner contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Catalina Iorga, Joke van der Weij, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron, Sarah Gehrke, Alison McGarry & Rhys Elliott), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration La Scarlatte (Pauline Teunissen)

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