SUMMER 2021
TAKE AN IOWA CHEESE TOUR
CELEBRATE IOWA’S AG ROOTS
MEET HONEYBEE HEROES
GET GRILLING
IOWA
Americans’ taste buds have spoken and they’re calling out for beef on the grill this summer. Browse summer grilling recipes and cooking tips at www.iabeef.org.
Welcome IN THE SUMMER ISSUE OF FRESH PICKINGS MAGAZINE, YOU’LL FIND STORIES THAT CELEBRATE THE INCREDIBLE FOOD, FARMS AND FAMILIES THAT MAKE IOWA A SPECIAL PLACE TO LIVE.
THIS QUARTERLY PUBLICATION IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE IOWA FOOD & FAMILY PROJECT. WE ARE AN INITIATIVE THAT INVITES IOWANS TO EXPLORE HOW FOOD IS GROWN AND RAISED AROUND THE STATE AND MEET THE FARMERS WHO MAKE IT HAPPEN; 24/7, 365 DAYS A YEAR.
WE NET WORK WITH NEARLY 35 FOOD, FARMING AND HEALTHY LIVING ORGANIZATIONS WHO ARE PROUD OF IOWA’S HOMEGROWN FOODS AND HOMETOWN VALUES. YOU CAN LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR PARTNERS ON PAGE 5.
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Features
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CLEAN WATER STARTS HERE
HONEYBEE HEROES
AN IOWA CHEESE TOUR
PRIMROSE RESTAURANT
Rural and urban
Honeybees are one
Take a road trip to
Primrose offers
Iowans are working
of agriculture’s
eastern Iowa and
big-city dining in a
together to protect
unsung heroes.
meet three farm
rural setting and
water quality. Find
Iowa’s beekeeping
families who have
delights guests with
tips to become
community is a thriving
found inspiration
a menu of locally
involved at home.
hive of activity.
as cheesemakers.
sourced food.
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In Every Issue
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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
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EDITOR’S NOTE: STEPPING INTO A NEW SEASON
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FAMILY TABLE: DELI TURKEY VEGGIE WRAPS
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WELLNESS TIPS: LET’S GET WALKING
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POINT OF INTEREST: VALLE DRIVE-IN
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FRESH PICKED: FARM LIFE IN THE SUMMER
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A TRIP BACK IN TIME Sprawling over
FOOD LABELS: FACT VS. FICTION
500 acres in central
Dr. Ruth MacDonald
Iowa, Living History
answers common
Farms celebrates
questions about
Iowa’s iconic roots in
food myths.
agriculture.
ON THE COVER: Milk from Holstein cows at Hansen’s Dairy Farm is used to create white cheddar cheese curds.
SUMMER 2021
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ISSUE NO. 10
IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM |
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Centuries of
Iowa Corn Farmers Century farms are an important part of Iowa’s agricultural history. Like you hand down meaningful family heirlooms, Iowa farmers have been passing on their land, knowledge, and most importantly, legacy for generations. This is true for the Messer family who planted roots right outside of Yarmouth, Iowa, over 100 years ago. A story told best by a member of the family, Cody Messer. The art of farming runs deep in Cody as both sides of his family come from simple roots that started in a small town in the middle of nowhere Iowa with the perfect land to grow corn and raise livestock. He could tell you about his great-grandfather Charles Strothman who was one the first farmers in his area to purchase a tractor and combine. Or about his grandfather Emmett who was such a hard worker, milked cows before he went to school every morning. But it doesn’t stop there, his family is filled with strong men and women who might just remind every Iowan of the elder generation they grew up learning from. Over 18,600 Iowa farms are recognized as Century Family Farms since 1976. Where do you come from? Visit www.iowacorn.org/faces-of-farming to hear more about the Messer Family Farm.
Messer Family Farm
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE IOWA FOOD & FAMILY PROJECT
FRESH PICKINGS MAGAZINE EDITOR LYDIA ZERBY PHOTOGRAPHER JOSEPH L. MURPHY DESIGNER ASHTON BOLES
CONTRIBUTORS ANN THELEN
Thelen Public Relations
CRISTEN CLARK Food & Swine
HALEY BANWART
Farm Roots & Chore Boots
DARCY DOUGHERTY MAULSBY Darcy Maulsby & Co.
AMY NELSON
CommonGround Iowa
ANN CLINTON
Iowa Soybean Association
MACKENZIE FELT
Iowa Corn Growers Association
MICHELLE MENSING
Michelle Mensing Photography
IOWA FOOD & FAMILY PROJECT FOUNDERS Iowa Soybean Association Iowa Pork Producers Association Iowa Beef Industry Council Midwest Dairy Iowa Corn Growers Association Iowa Poultry Association Iowa Egg Council Iowa Turkey Federation The Soyfoods Council
SUPPORTERS Anderson Erickson Dairy Cargill Cookies Food Products Corteva Agriscience Earl May Nursery & Garden Center Farm Credit Services of America Heart of America Group Hy-Vee Iowa Grocery Industry Association Iowa Machine Shed Restaurant Iowa State Fair Key Cooperative Latham Hi-Tech Seeds Live Healthy Iowa MercyOne Subway
REQUEST YOUR MAILED SUBSCRIPTION AT IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM/MAGAZINE/SUBSCRIBE
Thank you to the Iowa Soybean Association, Iowa Pork Producers Association, Iowa Beef Industry Council, Midwest Dairy, Iowa Corn Growers Association, Iowa Egg Council, Iowa
Fresh Pickings is published four times a year by: Iowa Soybean Association, 1255 SW Prairie Trail Parkway, Ankeny, Iowa 50023 For advertising information, complete the form at iowafoodandfamily.com/magazine/feedback.
Healthy Iowa and Earl May for the financial
Advertising space reservations must be made through the above form. In consideration of the acceptance of the advertisement, the agency and advertiser must, in respect of the contents of the advertisement, indemnify and save the publisher harmless against any expense arising from claims or actions against the publisher because of the publication of the content of the advertisement.
investment that makes this publication possible.
Comments: iowafoodandfamily.com/magazine/feedback
Turkey Federation, Farm Credit Services of America, Cargill, Corteva Agriscience, Key Cooperative, Latham Hi-Tech Seeds, Live
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I wanted to add to your story that featured "Mt. Vernon Barn Showcases American Gothic." About a quarter mile east of the American Gothic barn is another barn painted by Mark Benesh, which showcases the Statue of Liberty holding an apple. The business is called the Big Apple, and they grow a variety of apples on more than 2,000 trees. Also, our family loves the fresh salsa I make with produce from our garden. I don't do any canning, so I was excited to see the recipe for Winning Freezer Salsa in the spring issue of your magazine. We can't wait to still have fresh salsa after the first frost has set in! — Sally Hofmann, Cedar Rapids
Letters to the Editor We moved to Clive in July 2019 and knew nothing about the area and what there was around us. We got out a little that fall and went to a few festivals and tried some local cuisine. We were quite excited to get out and explore in 2020, and then COVID took the stage, front and center, and we couldn’t do much of anything; we stayed hunkered down. Your magazine was uplifting and gave me ideas on where I want to go this summer, like local farmers markets, and interesting places to eat on our journeys. I have enjoyed making several of the recipes I have found in the magazine and am working on living a healthier life. Keep up the great work! — Jacqui Tourk, Clive
Submit your own letter at iowafoodandfamily.com/ magazine/letters.
As a result of being involved with the Iowa Food & Family Project over the past few years, we are constantly looking for new ways to support local farmers, restaurants and businesses. We recently discovered a fun platform called Harvest Host, for when traveling in an RV or camping that helps to support farmers, businesses, breweries and wineries across the country. We can't wait to meet some local farmers and small business owners, see their beautiful properties, and try their products! — Julie Kohles, Johnston
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editor’s note
Stepping Into a New Season Iowa. One of my favorite parts of that position was learning about each farm family’s history, tenacity and passion for all things food and agriculture. I’m blessed to join the Iowa FFP team, which allows me to continue to build upon this important work.
“E
very moment is a fresh beginning,” said T.S. Eliot. As with any change in life, there come feelings of excitement, wonder, anxiety and curiosity. Throughout our lives, we all experience new beginnings, which appear in the form of relationships, children, careers, relocation and more. Embracing these opportunities and changes can be both challenging and invigorating. I like to think of these times as “seasons,” and along with them, periods of growth and renewal. My current season has taken me into this new role, leading the work of the Iowa Food & Family Project (Iowa FFP). I’m inspired by the people I’ve met so far: farmers, consumers and partner organizations who enthusiastically engage in conversations about food and agriculture. In my previous role with the Downtown Farmers’ Market in Des Moines, I also worked closely with farmers and food producers across
Growing up as a self-proclaimed “city-girl,” I have always been a curious consumer. Whether it’s learning how to navigate the local meat counter, discovering the ways farmers make sustainability a priority or where to find smalltown restaurant gems, asking questions and engaging in thoughtful dialogue is how we all become more educated consumers. Tell us what piques your curiosity! Your input is valued and will help us to shape Iowa FFP’s future work. In Iowa’s warm weather months, spending time outside with family enjoying a barbecue or cold frozen treat is a treasured tradition for many. Food, family and friends are often the center of gatherings. Whether these gettogethers occur in scenic places, such as a park, at a community festival or in a backyard, knowing farmers had a hand in the delicious food is something everyone can enjoy. This summer edition offers a little bit of everything, from highlighting a historic Iowa drive-in movie experience and how farmers are protecting Iowa’s water quality to exploring honeybee heroes and taking a delicious cheese tour. I hope you pause during this busy summertime to savor and enjoy all that Iowa offers. Enjoy the isue,
Submit a letter to the editor! Share how a story in Fresh Pickings magazine has inspired you to act, explore or try something new. If your letter is published, you’ll receive a $25 Hy-Vee gift card. iowafoodandfamily.com/magazine/letters
IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM |
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family table
Wrap Up Summer’s Freshness C E L E B R AT E S U M M E R BY PA I R I N G F R E S H V E G E TA B L E S W I T H P R OT E I N By Cristen Clark
T
his summer is shaping up to be a memorable one for our family. Earlier this spring, we jumped into growing vegetables by planting a large garden. While I’m good at raising pigs and growing field crops, I have never succeeded at gardening, so this challenge gave me serious pause at the beginning. Luckily, my husband grew up in a gardening family, and I have many greenthumbed friends!
Cristen Clark is a pig farmer, creator of the Food & Swine blog and an award-winning baker and cook. She lives on a farm near Runnells with her husband Mike and children Halle and Barrett.
I’ve made several trips to my local Earl May Garden Center as part of my gardening adventure, so many that the employees know me by name. I always come with a host of questions, but their patience is unmatched. With their help, I leave with a clear sense of what I need to do to keep my garden growing. The herbs are one of my favorites because I planted them in containers on my deck right outside the kitchen. I snip some of the fragrant and flavorful delights to enjoy with every meal. The kids are even enjoying them, too. This recipe for Deli Turkey Veggie Wraps is one that I use for lunches, picnics and appetizers. The best way to keep the wraps tightly rolled is to assemble them in advance, wrap them in plastic, twist the ends and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. For a refreshing appetizer on a hot day, slice the turkey wraps into
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1-inch pieces. I like to sprinkle fresh, chopped herbs on the pinwheels to add more flavor and create a colorful presentation. Deli turkey is protein-rich and versatile, with many delicious flavor combinations. Some of my favorites include sundried tomato, black pepper and honey mesquite. Depending on the time of year, different vegetables, including garden-fresh veggies, work beautifully in this wrap. Try radish slices, tomatoes, spinach or sliced kohlrabi for a crisp and refreshing option. For vegetables with a high-water content like kohlrabi or cucumbers, pat them dry with a paper towel before adding them to the wrap to ensure the wrap doesn’t get messy when eaten. To reduce the carbohydrate count, if you plan to eat this sandwich right away, wrap the ingredients inside the sliced deli turkey and secure with a toothpick – no wrap necessary! For another option, use wraps made entirely of cheese, which can be found at the grocery store. For an Italian-style preparation, use sundried tomato deli turkey and chopped chives, basil and Italian parsley. Add a few slices of turkey pepperoni and a slice or two of provolone cheese.
Deli Turkey Veggie Wraps • 4 ounces cream cheese
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 tablespoons f resh dill, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried dill)
• 1/2 pound smoked deli turkey or honey turkey
• 2 tablespoons f resh parsley, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried parsley) • 2 tablespoons f resh chives, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried chives) • 1 green onion, chopped • 1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
• 1/2 cucumber, sliced lengthwise, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch sticks • 1 large carrot, cut into 1/8-inch sticks • 1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/8-inch strips • 2 large tortilla shells (wheat, spinach or tomato basil)
Photo courtesy of Kelsey Byrnes, Dance Around the Kitchen.
In a small bowl, combine cream cheese, chopped herbs, chopped green onion, garlic salt and pepper. Spread herb cream cheese mixture on tortilla shells. Layer turkey on top of cream cheese mixture, followed by vegetables. Wrap tightly. Roll wraps snugly in plastic wrap. Chill for 1 hour. Slice into 1-inch pinwheels for an appetizer. Makes 2 large or 4 small servings.
IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM |
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wellness tips
Let’s Get Walking Live Healthy Iowa offers 5 ways to step f rom summer into fall By Ann Thelen
Staying active is one of the best ways to keep a body strong and healthy. Research shows that walking 150 minutes a week can boost emotional and physical well-being. Plus, moving more f requently can help you think better, feel better and sleep better. When it comes to walking, Iowa offers picturesque landscapes for dwellers in cities, suburbs and rural areas. Taking small steps by walking more in tandem with everyday activities can add up to big benef its. As summer turns to fall, Live Healthy Iowa shares f ive easy tips for walking your way to better health.
Take in the Trails.
involvement, leadership and
restaurant for lunch or
In every season, Iowa's
exercise while building pride
dinner, lace up those tennis
natural beauty is in full
where you live.
shoes and get walking.
display at Iowa’s state parks. The Iowa Natural Heritage Foundation offers a webbased application to identify and map trails maintained in Iowa’s state parks. With the app, users can identify trail name, acceptable trail use and distance. Visit iowabytrail.com.
Beautify Your Community. Keeping
Talk and Walk. Even if you’re feeling stuck on conference calls most of the day, you don’t have to be stuck in a chair. Make it a habit to walk and talk (safely, of course!) to burn calories while you earn.
Sport a New Routine. Whether it’s going to the
Having dessert will feel a little more guilt-f ree when walking it off on the way back to the off ice or home.
Catch up with the Kids. Looking for ways to reduce screen time? Take a family walk! It’s the perfect way to catch up on the day’s activities with teenagers or encourage youngsters to develop
Iowa beautiful has
grocery store or a sporting
healthy habits. Plus, the
never been easier. From
event, making it a habit to
combination of f resh air and
parks to neighborhoods to
park farther away increases
exercise is the perfect recipe
gathering places, sprucing
steps with each trip. Or,
for winding down after a
up a community inspires
instead of driving to a nearby
busy day.
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point of interest
MEET ME AT THE DRIVE-IN S P E N D A N E V E N I N G U N D E R T H E S TA R S AT I O WA ’ S O L D E S T D R I V E - I N M O V I E T H E AT E R By Haley Banwart
F
or more than 70 years, moviegoers have flocked to the Valle Drive-In for old-fashioned family fun and entertainment.
much has changed at the old-school picture show. Its authentic qualities and first-run movies continue to captivate audiences of all ages.
In their heyday, Iowa was home to more than 70 drive-ins. Today, only four remain.
One-of-a-Kind Cinema Experience
The Valle Drive-In, located near Newton, is Iowa’s oldest surviving outdoor theater. Aside from swapping film reels for digital formats, not
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On a typical summer night at the Valle Drive-In, lines of cars arrive early to scout out the best parking spaces. Guests are greeted at the ticket window under the glow of
Valle’s signature neon sign. As daylight turns to dusk, moviegoers mingle and settle in for a double feature presentation. A steady stream of patrons make their way to the original snack shack for food, popcorn, candy and refreshments. Meanwhile, original 1950s teaser trailers entertain viewers with vintage ads, snack bar cartoons and friendly drive-in reminders.
Going to the movies is a time-honored tradition many families enjoy, but for Valle’s visitors, the magic of the drivein experience is more than watching stories come to life on a 60-foot screen. “There’s something pure about a night at the drive-in that draws people in and reminds them of simpler times,” says Jeff Namminga, co-owner of the Valle Drive-In. “It’s a special summertime activity that turns going to the movies into a five- or six-hour outing.” “You might still see a few cell phones, but for the most part, the drive-in is a place where you’ll find friends and families hanging out, having fun and spending time together. I think a lot of people long for that kind of purposeful interaction.”
Make a Night of It The Valle Drive-In’s family-friendly atmosphere inspired Namminga to take over operations of the historic central Iowa hangout in 2014. Nestled in a remote area surrounded by Iowa corn and soybean fields, he compares the drive-in vibe to a tailgating event. “Groups show up hours before the showing to set up, kick back and play games of football, Wiffle ball or corn hole,” he says. “It’s different than going to an indoor theater and showing up a few minutes before the movie starts. At the drive-in, people come for the experience.”
From Memorial Day through Labor Day, the Valle Drive-In runs two movies a night, seven days a week. Tickets are sold on a firstcome, first-served basis at the box office. There is also an online reservation option for those who want to plan ahead. “Whether you go to the drive-in once or a couple of times a month, come early and make a night of it,” Namminga recommends. “There’s nothing better than spending a summer evening with friends or family and curling up to watch a movie beneath a starry sky.” For more information on admission and upcoming showings, visit valledrive-in.com.
A S DAY L I G H T T U R N S TO D US K , M OV I E G O E R S M I N G L E A N D S E T T L E I N F O R A D O U B L E F E AT U R E P R E S E N TAT I O N AT T H E VA L L E D R I V E - I N .
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CLEAN WATER IN IOWA STARTS HERE RURAL AND URBAN RESIDENTS WORK TOGETHER FOR PROGRESS By Darcy Dougherty Maulsby
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| Photos by Joseph L. Murphy
S
omething kept bugging Bob Quinn. The veteran farm broadcaster at 1040 WHO Radio in Des Moines kept hearing about Iowa’s water quality challenges, but he’d also seen firsthand how farmers’ conservation practices are making a positive difference. “Plenty of farmers are doing great work across the state, but they don’t always get a lot of credit,” says Quinn, who is also the arena announcer for Drake University’s men’s and women’s basketball teams. “I wanted to tell more of these stories of how Iowans are protecting water quality, the results they’re achieving and how others can get involved.” Quinn connected with rural and urban leaders in his professional network to launch the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign in 2020. The campaign includes the Iowa Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship (IDALS), the Iowa Soybean Association, multiple agricultural commodity groups and WHO Radio.
“For more than a year, we’ve been visiting rural and urban conservation projects to highlight the great work farmers, landowners, municipalities and homeowners are doing to improve water quality,” says Quinn, who broadcasts from various sites across the state during The Big Show on WHO Radio.
Cover Crops Sow Seeds of Success One of the first farmers featured through Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here was Mark Schleisman, whose family raises corn, soybeans, popcorn, cattle and hogs near Lake City. “Water quality is important to us,” says Schleisman, who received the 2018 National Conservation Legacy Award from the American Soybean Association. “I know from living near the Raccoon River that water quality has improved since I was a kid, but I want to do more. That’s why we keep trying new conservation practices to find out what fits our acres.” Cover crops have been one of his biggest successes. Schleisman seeds cover crops for the benefits
they provide after the corn and soybeans are harvested and before the following year’s cash crop is planted. Cover crops reduce erosion (which protects nearby rivers and streams from soil and phosphorus runoff), improve soil health by increasing organic matter and provide a nutritious feed source for cattle. For the past 10 years, Schleisman has expanded to 1,300 acres of cover crops. Schleisman credits his career in agribusiness for inspiring him to implement more conservation practices after he returned to the family farm full time. “About 80% of my time in corporate America was spent on the road, which opened my eyes to many different ways of farming,” says Schleisman, who worked as a crop consultant in central Nebraska and later as a popcorn production specialist and plant manager for Conagra. “You not only have to make enough money to pay the bills, but you must focus on continuous improvement. That’s part of sustainability.”
Veteran farm broadcaster Bob Quinn, pictured with his wife Ann adjacent their grain bin home, worked with rural and urban leaders to launch the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign.
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Locally led efforts like this are essential to improving water quality in Iowa, notes Iowa Secretary of Agriculture Mike Naig. “We’re putting a face on conservation with the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign and farmers like Mark Schleisman. Conservation doesn’t happen until someone says yes. It’s exciting to see rural and urban Iowans getting involved.”
Cedar Rapids Promotes the Power of Partnerships The City of Cedar Rapids has said yes to rural-urban conservation partnerships for many years. The city helps provide financial and technical assistance to area farmers who want to add more conservation practices to protect water quality.
Iowa Secretary of Ag Mike Naig (left) discusses the importance of water quality with Quinn.
Mark Schleisman farms near Lake City and actively uses cover crops to reduce erosion and improve soil health.
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“We invest in these partnerships because they help us improve the water our residents consume and the water that our industries rely on,” says Mike Kuntz, utilities environmental manager for the City of Cedar Rapids. “By improving water quality at the source, we prevent or delay the need to invest in expensive infrastructure at our water treatment plants.”
In 2015, the city received funding through the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s and Natural Resources Conservation Service’s (NRCS) Regional Conservation Partnership Program to assist farmers in the Miller Creek and Benton Tama Water Quality Initiative project areas. Efforts focused on technical assistance and cost-sharing to help farmers add conservation practices from cover crops to bioreactors. Bioreactors are buried trenches filled with woodchips that function like large coffee filters. Beneficial microbes that form in the bioreactor help remove impurities from the water. This Middle Cedar Partnership Project ran for five years, until 2020. “Cedar Rapids is an outstanding model of how a successful ruralurban partnership can work,” Naig says. In the spring of 2021, NRCS selected Cedar Rapids’ Cedar River Source Water Partnership project to receive approximately $7 million to continue improving water quality.
“By taking a partnership approach, we’ve become more familiar with the economic links between our local industries and agricultural partners upstream,” Kuntz says. “Corn and soybeans produced in the Cedar River watershed – and around Iowa – fuel our local economy and keep a large sector of Cedar Rapids’ industrial base profitable. It’s all connected, and everybody benefits when we partner to protect and improve water quality.” Cedar Rapids’ leadership has not gone unnoticed. In 2019, the US Water Alliance awarded the City of Cedar Rapids the US Water Prize for Outstanding Work in the Public Sector. “From the start, we envisioned rural and urban Iowans working together to achieve the goals of the Iowa Nutrient Reduction Strategy,” Naig says. “This is helping reduce nitrogen and phosphorus in Iowa’s waterways.” More resources are being directed to conservation and water quality improvement in Iowa, Naig adds. In addition to scaling up programs for farmers, IDALS allocates about $1 million a year to urban conservation demonstration projects in Iowa. Kuntz is glad the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign is bringing additional attention
to projects like this statewide. “Partnerships are critical when you are working on a watershed scale. We strongly believe that partnerships can help solve water quality challenges.”
Get Involved Momentum for the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign continues to grow. Farmers are forming partnerships with groups like The Nature Conservancy to restore oxbows (curves in streams that have become separated from the flow of water) to control soil erosion and provide habitat for fish and wildlife. Schleisman favors a systems approach to conservation and water quality rather than a one-anddone mindset. “Instead of saying, ‘We’ve always done it this way,’ we continue to look for ways to do things better throughout our farm.” “The way Iowans are managing water resources more sustainably is phenomenal,” Quinn says. “All the people I’ve interviewed for Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here say, ‘I’d like to do more.’” No matter where you live, you have the opportunity to make a positive impact on Iowa’s water quality, Quinn adds. “Each one of us benefits from clean water. We’re extending the invitation to join us.”
3 THINGS YOU CAN DO TO IMPROVE WATER QUALITY Try these tips f rom the Clean Water in Iowa Starts Here campaign to help protect water quality where you live:
- 1 Keep your grass clippings in your lawn or compost them. Don’t brush them f rom the sidewalk or driveway into the street, where they can enter the storm sewer.
- 2 Redirect the downspouts on your home to drain into the lawn instead of the driveway.
- 3 Clean up oil, antif reeze and lawn fertilizer spills to prevent them f rom running into the storm drains.
Farmers are helping restore oxbows to control soil erosion and provide habitat for f ish and wildlife.
For more information, visit CleanWaterIowa.org. IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM |
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Honeybee HEROES
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High school students Ellie Nusbaum and Jason Vernon are honeybee enthusiasts.
INSIDE THE HIVE OF ACTIVITY BUILDING IOWA’S BEEKEEPING COMMUNITY By Haley Banwart | Photos by Joseph L. Murphy
I
owans have long practiced the ancestral art of beekeeping.
In 1886, there were an estimated 6,000 beekeepers in the state. Today, Iowa’s 4,500 beekeepers manage approximately 45,000 hives, which produce roughly 4 million pounds of honey – an impressive output valued at approximately $8 million. But for the many hobbyists and commercial apiculturists carrying on the craft today, it isn’t all about
the quest for something sweet. Honeybees play a vital role in the health and ecology of our agricultural landscape. Without the quiet and industrious work of these highly efficient pollinators, one-third of the food we enjoy would be missing from our dinner plates. That makes honeybees one of agriculture’s unsung heroes. As pollinators, honeybees contribute to the production of
more than 90 crops across the nation, many of which are grown in Iowa or depend on migratory colonies. For example, some of Iowa’s commercial beekeepers temporarily relocate their colonies to California during the cold winter months to provide pollination services to almond orchards. Altogether, honeybees help Iowans generate an estimated $92 million in state economic value each year.
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Iowa’s 4,500 beekeepers manage approximately 45,000 hives, which produce roughly 4 million pounds of honey.
Educating and Inspiring the Next Generation While the economic impact of Iowa’s modern beekeeping industry is significant, a pair of young beekeepers, also known as apiarists – Ellie Nusbaum and Jason Vernon – are working to highlight the deeper connection humans share with honeybees. Nusbaum and Vernon are juniors at Ames High School (AHS) and active in the AHS Bee Club. Both students were introduced to beekeeping by family members. Through their roles as Honey Queen and Ambassador for the Central Iowa Beekeepers Association, Nusbaum and Vernon
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are using their platform to educate consumers and inspire a new generation of honeybee enthusiasts. “One of our main goals is introducing Iowans to beekeeping and providing them with the information and resources they need,” says Nusbaum. “It’s always interesting how a lot of people really don’t know anything about honeybees, yet they are critical to our survival and the food we eat.” “Our work is also about inspiring a new generation of beekeepers,” Vernon adds. “Many of Iowa’s beekeepers have been in the business for a long time, so it’s great when we can get more students and their families involved.”
Beekeeping Behind the Scenes Raising bees can seem intimidating for beginners, but with preparation and practice, it can be a rewarding hobby, sideline business or full-time profession. Behind the scenes, the art requires careful observation and hands-on hive management, a balance that varies depending on the season. “Keeping bees is not like having a pet; it’s caring for an entire civilization of honey-making magicians,” shares Vernon. “There’s a whole world inside a beehive that people often don’t realize.” A single hive, for instance, can serve as a home for up to 60,000 honeybees that live and work
in a highly collaborative society comprised of worker bees, drones and one queen. Like other agricultural species, a number of pests, diseases and predators can threaten hive health. Adverse weather presents another set of challenges. The hard work of being a beekeeper is rewarded when golden drops of honey and other hive products are harvested in the fall. “One of the best parts about beekeeping is that you can harvest every single thing the honeybees make – there’s no waste,” Vernon says. “It’s not just the honey; even the wax and comb are edible or can be used for making soaps, candles and other purposes.”
A single hive can serve as a home for up to 60,000 honeybees.
Without the quiet and industrious work of these highly eff icient pollinators, one-third of the food we enjoy would be missing f rom our dinner plates.
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Iowa’s Growing Beekeeping Community Another aspect of Nusbaum’s and Vernon’s roles as honeybee royalty involves engaging with Iowa’s growing beekeeping community. This network ranges from backyard hobbyists that maintain as few as one hive to full-time commercial operators who manage thousands of hives. Backyard beekeepers are essential to honeybee survival.
“Iowa’s beekeeping community is a hidden gem,” says Nusbaum. “There are so many beekeepers willing to share their experiences and pass down their knowledge, and that’s the most powerful thing when it comes to protecting the future of honeybees.” Not long ago, honeybees made major headlines when researchers discovered colonies were collapsing at alarming
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rates. Although pollinator populations are still at risk, backyard beekeepers have played an essential role in recovery efforts and reducing the threats to honeybee survival. Traditionally, beekeeping has occurred in rural areas, but as interest in the craft has grown, more and more beekeepers can be found in Iowa’s cities and small towns. “In some areas, bees are considered a form of livestock, so it’s always good to check your local laws and ordinances before bringing bees inside city limits,” Nusbaum advises. “Even if you can’t have hives in your backyard, you can still support Iowa beekeepers by purchasing honey and other hive products at your local store or farmers market.”
Grilled Beef Tri-Tip with Tropical Fruit Salsa BEEF
• 1 beef Tri-Tip Roast (11/2 to 2 pounds) LIME-HONEY GLAZE
• 2 tablespoons honey • 2 tablespoons f resh lime juice • 2 teaspoons ground cumin • 1 teaspoon dry mustard • 1 teaspoon salt TROPICAL FRUIT SALSA
• 1½ cups diced papaya or mango • ½ cup diced plum tomatoes • 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded, f inely chopped
• 2 tablespoons sliced green onion
ingredients in medium bowl. Ref rigerate until ready to serve.
• 2 tablespoons f resh lime juice
Remove roast when instantread thermometer registers 135 degrees F for medium rare; 150 degrees F for medium. Tent loosely with aluminum foil; let stand 10 minutes. (Temperature will continue to rise about 10 degrees F to 145 degrees F for medium rare; 160 degrees F for medium.) Carve across the grain into thin slices. Serve with salsa.
• 1 tablespoon chopped f resh cilantro or parsley • 1 tablespoon honey
Combine glaze ingredients in small bowl. Place roast on grid over medium, ash-covered coals or over medium heat on preheated gas grill. Grill, covered 25 to 35 minutes for medium rare to medium doneness, turning occasionally. Brush with glaze twice during last 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine salsa
Source: Beef. It's What's For Dinner. Nutrition per serving: 245 calories, 8 g total fat, 66 mg cholesterol, 443 mg sodium, 21 g carbohydrates, 1.6 g f iber, 24 g protein
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Shannon Krogmeier Wellman works full time on her family's dairy facility and retail store.
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n owa I A Ralph and Colleen Krogmeier own and operate Hinterland Dairy in Donnellson.
Cheese Tour FA R M E R S E M B R A C E A T R I F E C TA O F B E I N G D A I RY
FARMERS, CROP GROWERS AND CHEESE PRODUCERS By Ann Thelen | Photos by Michelle Mensing
I
owa native Grant Wood might be best known for his paintings depicting the rural Midwest, particularly American Gothic, but he’s also famous in the dairy industry for one particularly prophetic statement. “All the really good ideas I ever had, came to me while I was milking a cow,” Wood once said. The historical origins of cheesemaking aren’t necessarily attributed to farmers’ long hours
in milking parlors. However, there is likely a connection to modern-day dairy farmers using the twice-daily milking routines to think of ways to diversify their operations.
Today, Iowa ranks as one of the top 10 cheese-producing states in the U.S. For a state that leads in corn, soybeans, egg and pork production, it’s no surprise Iowa farmers have put their agricultural passion to work
in creating another nutritious product.
Embrace Iowa cheese by taking a road trip to the beautiful farms of eastern Iowa and meeting three farm families who have found inspiration as cheesemakers. These farms proudly place a “Made in Iowa” stamp on fresh, delicious and sustainably produced dairy products. After all, the best cheese begins with the best milk!
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Donnellson
Hinterland Dairy
Ralph and Colleen Krogmeier began milking cows in beautiful southeast Iowa in 1978. For the Krogmeiers, being dairy farmers is not just an occupation; it’s a way of life.
Today, the Krogmeier’s farm, production dairy facility and retail store sit on 400 acres of rolling hills, grassy pastures, and fields producing soybeans, corn and hay.
Cheese is made every week at Hinterland Dairy, and f rom cows to f resh cheese, the entire process takes less than 12 hours.
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“For decades, my parents dreamed of doing some type of on-farm production with our dairy milk,” explains Shannon Krogmeier Wellman, the youngest of the couple’s three daughters and the only child to work full time on the farm. “Our vision for Hinterland Dairy was born in 2016 when we knew we either needed to grow our dairy farm or diversify to survive. The artisanal cheese movement
was gaining momentum, and we thought it would be a good place to start.” With 150 dairy cows, Hinterland Dairy produced its first batch of cheese in July 2019, and customers quickly discovered the unmistakable appeal of fresh cheese curds. “We’re a long way from Wisconsin, and a lot of our patrons had never tried fresh cheese curds. You know if cheese curds are fresh because they squeak for a week,” Shannon says. The chemistry of the cheese is the reason only the freshest cheese curds squeak. As soon as they are made, the rennet in the cheese curds is still active and working. The calcium bonds are trying to stick together, and when your teeth break those bonds apart, it makes a squeaking sound.
To become a farmer-also-turnedcheesemaker, Ralph took classes at the University of Wisconsin and the Center for Dairy Research in Wisconsin, which is partly funded by Midwest Dairy. “Dad is our cheese scientist; I’ve learned a lot from him, along with doing my own reading and research,” Shannon adds. Cheese is made every week on the farm, and from cows to fresh cheese, the entire process takes less than 12 hours. Wild Buffalo, Fiery Fiesta, Garlic and Herb, and Cheddar cheese curds satisfy every palate. In addition, a soft, spreadable Quark cheese with German origins works great on crackers or in recipes. The family’s Brooks Place is an aged, nutty and creamy Alpine cheddar and named for the Krogmeier’s first farm. Happy Jack is an American-Monterey Jack-style cheese, perfect for a cracker but shines in a grilled cheese. “We grow the crops that feed the cows, milk the cows twice a day, and use that rich, creamy milk to make the best cheese,” Shannon says. “That’s what sustainability is all about.” Visitors are welcome at the farm’s retail store, and products can also be purchased online, at markets and select local stores.
Jordan and Blake Hansen along with their daughter Reese and son Beckett.
Hudson Hansen’s Dairy Farm
In Hudson, seven generations of the Hansen family have grown up on the same farm that’s been in the family since 1864. The land is designated as an Iowa Heritage Farm, meaning the same family has owned it for 150 years.
In the early 2000s, all four sons of Jay and Jeanne Hansen were interested in returning to work on the family’s dairy farm. They added value to the milk by establishing an on-farm
creamery. The first gallon of milk was processed in February 2004. Today, the sons – Brent, Brad, Blair and Blake – all play an integral role on the farm. Boasting a kangaroo on the Hansen’s Dairy logo, the farm offers six flavors of cheese curds along with milk, heavy cream, butter and ice cream. The logo is symbolic of the six kangaroos that are part of the “farm family” and await visitors.
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“Our cheese curds are mild white cheddar and some are flavored with Ranch, Bacon, Dill, Buffalo and Spicy Red Pepper seasonings,” explains Blake Hansen’s wife Jordan, who is also actively involved in the dairy farm’s operations. “We produce about 4 million pounds of milk annually and make about 30,000 pounds of cheese curds.” The Hansens milk 150 cows with another 150 replacement heifers on the farm, operating a closed herd of registered Holsteins. Cows are milked twice each day, at 4 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. “We have about 400 acres of crops, mostly corn, soybeans and hay,” Jordan explains. “Everything we grow is used as feed for the cows.”
The Hansens focus their sustainability efforts on actionable steps, including crop rotation and contour farming with waterways. Manure from the cows is used as organic fertilizer to return vital nutrients to the soil. When the cows are getting milked, water is used to chill the milk (sealed in containers). Because the water remains clean and isn’t tainted, it goes back to the cows to drink. Hansen’s local dairy products are available online and in Hudson, Waterloo, Cedar Falls, Waverly, Cedar Rapids and Iowa City. From April through October, tours are available for families, students and other groups to learn about dairy farming and milk processing (and interact with animals!).
WW Homestead Dairy produces cheese curds, block cheddar cheese and cottage cheese. The cottage cheese is made f rom non-homogenized milk.
In non-homogenized milk, fat molecules The Hansens milk 150 cows twice a day, and all the crops grown on the farm are used as feed for the cows.
in milk rise to the top and form a layer of cream. Homogenizing milk prevents this separation f rom occurring by breaking the molecules down to a minuscule size and they remain suspended evenly throughout the milk instead of rising to the top.
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Waukon
Stephanie, pictured with husband Marshall and children Hank, Hazel and Alice, is one of Tom Weighner’s four daughters and remains active with the farm.
WW Homestead Dairy
WW Homestead Dairy in Waukon is surrounded by beautiful rolling hills and a thriving agricultural landscape.
In 2011, two northeastern Iowa families decided the time was right to enter the local food market with dairy products made from milk produced from 180 cows on their farms. The dairy is owned by Tom Weighner, Paul Weighner and Tom Walleser, who bring more than 90 years of combined experience in the dairy industry.
“We work hard to produce dairy products that are natural, have great flavor and taste, and are as fresh as possible,” explains Tom Weighner. WW Homestead products are available at the dairy’s onsite retail store, online and through fundraisers. Customers rave about the fresh, squeaky cheese curds made almost
daily by Bruce Snitker, creamery manager, who holds a Wisconsin Cheesemaker’s License. Individual cheese curds are available for shipping or in-store purchase and feature traditional cheddar flavors or a combined box of WW Homestead’s national award-winning flavors of Garlic and Dill, Chipotle Morita, Jalapeno Ranch and Bloody Mary. They also produce block cheddar cheese and small-batch cottage cheese. The 4% milkfat, small curd cottage cheese is made from nonhomogenized milk. Both farms grow corn and soybeans, which are primarily used for feed. Sustainability for the land and cow comfort are priorities on the farm. “The milking cows are housed in a free-stall barn that is bedded with
deep sand, which is very comfortable for them,” Tom says. “The cows also have sprinklers and fans to keep them cool during the summer months and large curtains we can pull up on days when it’s cold and windy.” For every 100 pounds of milk produced, it converts into 10 pounds of cheese. The rest is whey, the fluid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained. “All the whey is reused as crop fertilizer or in feed for the cows. It truly creates a circle of sustainability,” Tom adds. Tours are available where visitors can watch how products are made. Large viewing windows allow customers to see the hard work, effort and quality that go into making their cream-line milk, ice cream, cheese and butter. IOWAFOODANDFAMILY.COM |
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Joel Mahr and wife Jill Fulton operate Primrose in downtown Corning.
Primrose UPSCALE DINING NESTLED IN A RURAL COMMUNITY By Ann Clinton | Photos by Joseph L. Murphy
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estled in Adams County in southwest Iowa, the town of Corning is a quintessential rural neighborhood. Flanked by rolling hills of soybean and corn fields, the local farming community is critical to the little town’s vitality. Semitrucks hauling grain often rumble through the city limits on their way to Poet, a nearby ethanol refinery. However, something extraordinary sets this county-seat town apart
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from its counterparts in other areas of the state. Word has gotten out, as evidenced by the out-oftown license plates lining main street on any given weekend. Omaha-native Joel Mahr and wife Jill Fulton opened Primrose, an upscale restaurant featuring a new menu each week, approximately three years ago in downtown Corning. The establishment became an instant success, and
as popularity increased, the restaurant has transformed the perception of small-town dining. “Townsfolk say they are glad we chose Corning, but the truth is, Corning chose us,” Mahr says. Ray Gaesser, who farms near Corning, says for him and wife Elaine, it’s pretty terrific to have such a beautiful venue and highquality food in the small town.
“Primrose uses farm-fresh produce and locally sourced meats, which they highlight on their menu,” Ray says. “That’s a really positive message about agriculture for those who may not understand our industry very well.”
Making of a Chef Mahr says he grew up learning his way around a kitchen from his grandmother. As the first grandchild, Mahr helped with Thanksgiving and Christmas meals, but it wasn’t until he was 26, after a fateful incident with a knife, that he started to cook professionally. “I had to have a procedure done on my hand, and I was talking to the doctor who was going to do the surgery,” says Mahr. “I told him I could still hold a knife
pretty well, and he said, ‘Oh, do you cook?’ I told him that I sure would like to. The doctor told me I should get in contact with a chef he knew in Elkhorn, Nebraska, and the rest is history.” Mahr spent the next decade “hopping around,” working in the Omaha area at various restaurants, ranging from sushi bars to fine dining establishments. Mahr says he wanted to absorb as many experiences as he could while still young in his career. Ultimately, Mahr landed a position as a head chef at an up-and-coming restaurant in west Omaha, which boasted a farm-to-table concept. He spent the next six years learning every aspect of the business, including food sourcing and employee management.
Local farmers say Primrose promotes a positive message about agriculture.
Primrose blends upscale menu offerings with small-town charm.
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An all-original tin ceiling creates warmth and ambiance inside Primrose.
“With approximately 18 years of cooking experiences at all those places, I gained enough courage to open up my own place,” says Mahr. “So far, it has been working out well.”
Corning Stands Out Mahr’s in-laws live 20 minutes away from Corning, near Nodaway, and grow nearly an acre of produce on their farm. Mahr and his wife knew they wanted to open a farm-to-table type of restaurant, and the concept of utilizing the freshest ingredients available held great appeal. When an ad for a possible restaurant location was in the local newspaper, Mahr and his wife decided to take a look. That location didn’t Patrons will often drive an hour or more to eat at Primrose.
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ultimately work out, but as fate often works, another building in Corning that wasn’t even officially for sale caught their eye. “It’s like when you’re buying a house, and you can walk into some and know they don’t feel right,” explains Mahr. “Then you walk into another, and you just know it is the one. That’s how it happened for us. We just knew.” He adds, “We looked at the ceiling, and it was lined with all-original tin tiling. It just had that feeling of what I was used to already. It didn’t feel like it should be in a small town. So, we asked the guy if he wanted to sell it, and he gave us an offer we couldn’t refuse.”
A year later, after extensive renovations, the Primrose restaurant opened its doors.
City Dining in a Small Town Mahr has been humbled by the amount of support offered to Primrose. “It’s shocking to me the amount of time our guests put in just to eat at our establishment,” says Mahr. “They will drive an hour or more to come here and enjoy
themselves. It’s amazing because the cars that park out front are from all different counties and states. The new faces we see every day is really cool.” Mahr knows how to create an experience that keeps patrons returning to Primrose. The menu, which changes every week, uses the produce grown on his in-law’s farm and locally sourced meat. “I love the opportunity to educate some of our guests about where their food comes from,” he says.
Primrose is not just a destination for out-of-towners; it has become a community mainstay for locals, too. On weekdays, it’s not unusual for the restaurant to serve nearly 90 lunches, which is impressive for a town of only 1,400 people. “I encourage everyone to visit and try the restaurant because they will be coming back,” Gaesser says. “Joel and Jill are such wonderful people, and we are just so lucky to have them here.”
Primrose’s menu changes weekly and uses produce from the family’s farm and locally sourced meat.
On weekdays, Primrose often serves nearly 90 lunches, impressive for a town of 1,400 residents.
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A Trip Back in Time The 1876 town of Walnut Hill at Living History Farms represents a post-Civil War community in the Iowa farm belt.
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EXPERIENCE 300 YEARS OF HISTORY, B R I D G E D W I T H M O D E R N A G R I C U LT U R E AT LIVING HISTORY FARMS By Ann Thelen | Photos courtesy of Living History Farms
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IOWA AG NATIONAL RANKINGS NO. 1:
Production of Corn, Eggs, Pork
NO. 2:
Production of Soybeans, Total Value of Ag Exports
NO. 3:
Number of Farms
NO. 4:
Beef Exports
NO. 7:
Turkeys Raised
NO. 9:
Cheese Production Source: United States Department of Agriculture, National Agricultural Statistics Service, 2020
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A
griculture anchors Iowa. The Hawkeye State leads the nation in many types of food and crop production and is home to global leaders in ag innovation. Although the state’s residents live amid the most fertile and productive farmland in the country, most people are now at least three generations removed from the farm. Iowans don’t have to travel far to connect with the generations of agricultural roots that bind the state together. Living History Farms sits on 500 acres of sprawling land in the heart of central Iowa. This treasured outdoor and interactive museum celebrates Iowa’s iconic foundation in agriculture.
Strolling through the fictional town of Walnut Hill, on the grounds of this farm, visitors are transported back in time across 15 essential stores and services. Like a scene from the famed television series Little House on the Prairie, the town is anchored with a church and flanked with the likes of a general store, blacksmith shop, millinery shop, bank and school. Along with the Flynn Mansion and Tangen House – homes reflective of the times – three farms anchor these grounds. The farms show the progression of early to modern agriculture. Open each year from May 1 to Oct. 31, people of all ages create memorable experiences by learning about the foundation of Iowa.
Farming for Food – 1700 Farm
enough for their family to survive throughout the year.
This farm prototype transports visitors back three centuries, where the farming techniques practiced by the Ioway Indians in 1700 pre-dated written history and varied from European methods. Ioway farmers raised corn, beans and squash. Women did the farming in the Ioway culture while men were responsible for hunting wild animals for food and making tools from wood, stone and bones. Ioway families were subsistence farmers, raising just
The Native Americans who lived and farmed in what would become the state of Iowa used their own power to plant and harvest crops. They did not have livestock. However, they had dogs, which helped in hunting and pulling travois – a type of sled used to carry heavy things when traveling long distances. Ioway Indians had separate summer, winter and traveling lodges. Bark houses called náhachi kept the
Relax and dine out! Visit iowafoodandfamily.com/ magazine/hotel to win a Hotel Renovo stay and $50 Machine Shed gift certif icate.
F O L LO W THE LIFE OF SOYBE ANS IN IOWA The soybean is a species of legume that originated in Southeast Asia and was f irst domesticated by Chinese farmers. Its popularity among U.S. farmers took root in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, acres planted to soybeans increased dramatically after George Washington Carver (a graduate of Iowa State University) discovered that soybeans were a valuable source of protein and oil and benef icial to soil quality when planted in rotation with other crops.
1920s
Early soybeans begin to be planted by farmers in the Midwest.
1930s
Soybean meal proves to be an essential ingredient in animal feed.
1940s
The U.S. is importing 40% of its fats and oils when supplies were cut off by World War II. Soybean producers double production; processors build plants to produce soybean oil.
1950s
Average soybean yields are around 20 bushels per acre. Passage of Public Law 480, Food for Peace program, in 1954 helps fund market development and stimulates exports of soy products.
1960s
The Iowa Soybean Association is formed in 1964. Iowa becomes the second largest state in soybean acreage and production in 1969, harvesting 171 million bushels from 5.5 million acres. (Continued on page 38)
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Ioway cool during hot summer months, while winter mat-houses called chákirutha, made from layers of sewn cattail leaves, protected the Ioway from harsh winters and stayed around 50 degrees inside. While traveling on hunting expeditions, the Ioway lived in a chibóthraje or tipi made from buffalo hides. Their villages also contained sweat lodges, food-drying racks, cooking areas, work areas, hide-scraping racks, pottery pits and gardens.
Transitioning f rom Subsistence to Prof itMaking – 1850 Pioneer Farm On a mid-summer visit to the 1850 Pioneer Farm, the men might be in the fields cultivating corn and potatoes or harvesting wheat,
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the three main crops on the Iowa frontier. Inside the log house, the women work on domestic projects and prepare the midday meal. The meal, usually consisting of meat, bread and potatoes is served at noon and called dinner. The 1850 Pioneer Farm – representing a farm that is just four years old after Iowa became a state in 1846 – is in transition between subsistence agriculture and becoming a profit-making enterprise. Most farms in 1850 averaged 160 acres in size, with farmers cultivating anywhere from 25 to 40 acres. While the pioneers did a lot of work by hand, they also relied on oxen for heavy farm power, such as plowing the ground and moving trees to
AG IN IOWA T O D AY FA R M S : 86,104
AV E R A G E FA R M S I Z E : 355 acres
FA R M E R S : 34% female; 66% male Source: U.S. Ag Census, 2017
1970s
The Iowa Legislature passes soybean checkoff legislation in 1971. No-till agriculture gains popularity; this technique is used for growing crops without disturbing the soil.
1980s
Iowa Legislature passes soybean oil ink bill mandating the use of soy oil in government printing by July 1989.
2000s
Iowa Soybean Association launches its Environmental Programs and Services. The Soyfoods Council, the Soy Transportation Coalition and the Iowa Biodiesel Board are formed.
2010s
Iowa Soybean Research Center at Iowa State University is developed. Iowa Food & Family Project created with a vote of approval by the Iowa Soybean Association.
T O D AY build fences or the log cabin. The Shorthorn was the most common breed of cattle in Iowa in the 1800s. This breed was popular because they were good milk and beef producers, plus they made good oxen. Cows, sheep, pigs, chickens and other animals are now being raised for food. Most farmers used their corn crop to feed the pigs that were then sold for profit. Wheat and hogs were cash crops for farmers, and potatoes were a staple with nearly every meal and lasted throughout the winter.
1900 Horse-Powered Farm Dramatic changes in farming occurred between 1850 and 1900. The end of the Civil War led into the Industrial Revolution, and changes resulted throughout the barnyard. By 1900, instead of performing fieldwork by hand, most farmers used draft horses for hard labor – 1,800-pound
Percheron draft horses pull various machinery to plant, cultivate and harvest the farm's crops. Commonly raised farm animals included sheep, chickens, hogs, milk cows, beef cattle, ducks, geese and turkeys. The large barns were the center of daily activity on turn-of-the-century farms. Most farmers used the barn for multiple purposes, like storing hay and oats, stabling animals, milking cattle and storing tools and equipment. Farmers harvested hay in the summer, and then kept it in the barn to feed the animals during the winter months. The haymow, in the center of the barn, held more than 30 tons of loose hay. Inside the farm kitchen, the woodburning cookstove and the Mason jar made food preparation and preservation much easier.
Iowa soybean farmers produce nearly 550 million bushels of soybeans or roughly 13% of the nation’s total, planted to 10 million acres. Soybean meal feed in the U.S. goes to several segments of animal agriculture, aquaculture and companion animals. Soybean oil remains the most common vegetable oil in the U.S.; 54.3% of the soybean oil used in the U.S. goes to the food industry. Soybeans deliver a vegetable protein option in many forms, including tofu, tempeh and edamame. Uses for soy-based products continue to expand, with more than 1,000 items currently on the market — f rom flooring and roof ing products to candles and personal care items.
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Dr. Ruth MacDonald, chair of the Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition at Iowa State University, is passionate about combating myths and misinformation around today’s food system.
Food Labels: S E PA R AT I N G FAC T F RO M F I C T I O N
DR. RUTH MACDONALD COMBINES PASSION AND S C I E N C E TO C O M B AT M Y T H S A N D M I S I N FO R M AT I O N .
By Mackenzie Felt | Photos by Joseph L. Murphy
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W
alking into a grocery store can be overwhelming. Between flashy labels and many shelf options, the anxiety can be real. Mix that with social media platforms suggesting what to feed children and daytime television selling the latest fad diet, and it’s a recipe for confusion. However, the experts on food sources typically don’t have 50,000 followers on Instagram or a daily talk show. Instead, they have a family just like yours and produce food with safety and quality always top-of-mind. The food in grocery stores often includes products grown and raised by Iowa’s farmers. For example, more than 4,000 products you stroll past in the aisles contain Iowa field corn. With information coming from so many sources, it is understandable consumers face uncertainty up and down the grocery aisles. Dr. Ruth MacDonald specializes in helping consumers separate facts from fiction about the preservatives, GMOs and hormones in the products found at grocery stores. MacDonald is the Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition Chair at Iowa State University, and she is passionate about combating myths and misinformation around today’s food system. MacDonald sat down with the Iowa Food & Family Project to answer common questions she receives from consumers.
What is a GMO and why were they created? GMO is an abbreviation for Genetically Modified Organism, a term that defines an organism (a generic term for a living entity, such
as a plant, animal, microorganism or yeast) that has been modified using genetic technology developed in the 1990s. The technology is also called bioengineering. Some of the first applications of bioengineering included creating a yeast that could synthesize the protein insulin. Using yeasts to make insulin made this life-saving drug widely available for people with Type I diabetes. Before developing this bioengineered form of insulin, the only source was to extract insulin from the pancreases of pigs. In agriculture, bioengineering was first used to develop crops that were resistant to a common herbicide, glyphosate, which is commercially sold as Roundup®. A naturally occurring gene was found in some plants that allowed them to survive the herbicide. This gene was inserted into the seed to grow corn and soybeans, which allowed the farmer to use glyphosate when the plants were emerging – the weeds died, but the crop survived. By giving the crop this advantage, they grew faster and farmers used less herbicide. These herbicide-tolerant crops – corn, soybeans, cotton, alfalfa and others – were successful and rapidly adopted by farmers.
What crops contain GMOs? There are 11 commercially available GMO crops in the U.S. and include soybeans, corn (field and sweet), canola, cotton, alfalfa, sugar beets, summer squash, papaya, apples and potatoes.
Are GMO foods safe to feed my family? Yes. There is no evidence that GMO foods are in any way harmful
to humans or animals. The Food & Drug Administration, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and many prominent medical organizations have publicly stated that GMO foods are safe.
Are GMO foods labeled? The Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard was passed into law in 2016, but food companies have until January 2022 to comply. The standard will require foods that are in the List of Bioengineered Foods to provide a label on the food package. The law allows manufacturers to use a symbol to indicate if the food is bioengineered or contains ingredients derived from bioengineering.
Do GMOs impact allergies or cause cancer? In the 25 years since GMOs were introduced in the U.S., there has never been any confirmed case of an allergic reaction to GMO food. Before a GMO can be released into the food supply, careful studies are done to ensure it will not cause any allergic reactions. There is no evidence that bioengineered foods can or will cause cancer.
If livestock consumes genetically modif ied grain, will GMOs be in beef, pork, turkey or other proteins? Absolutely not. The genetic traits are digested and metabolized just like all the other DNA the animal is consuming – remember, all living things have DNA. If you eat a carrot and consume the DNA in that carrot – your body does not absorb carrot DNA; it gets broken down into its basic parts.
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Are organic foods healthier than traditional foods? The foods produced under organic standards are not healthier or safer than foods produced using conventional farming practices. Organic foods are produced under guidelines established in 1990 for the Organic Standard that define the herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers that can be used on plants and how animals are to be raised. One example often cited is organic milk is safer for children because it does not have hormones or antibiotics. The fact is that by law ALL milk sold in the U.S. must be tested and free of contaminating hormones or antibiotics. Organic milk and conventionally produced milk are equally safe for children.
Is high f ructose corn syrup a fake sugar, and does it cause obesity? High fructose corn syrup (HFCS)
The food in grocery stores often includes products or ingredients grown and raised by Iowa’s farmers.
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is not a fake sugar. It is chemically the same as table sugar. Our bodies metabolize HFCS the same as sugar. Because HFCS and sugar are the same, both are a source of calories (exactly the same number of calories!). Therefore, consuming a lot of sugar-containing foods, either table sugar or HFCS, can contribute to weight gain.
Everyone says you shouldn’t eat it unless you can pronounce the ingredients on the label. Do you agree? This is nonsense and tries to make science bad. All chemicals have names that may be unfamiliar to people who are not scientists. The name has nothing to do with making it safe or not. For example, arachidonic acid sounds like a poisonous spider – but it is just an essential fat needed for our brains. Federal law requires labels to accurately define what is in the food – using the correct chemical name.
What guidance would you give when selecting the best foods to feed my family? What are things I should understand on labels? First, it is time to stop being fearful of the food supply. Americans enjoy the safest, most abundant and diverse food system on the planet. Federal agencies continuously monitor food safety. The best advice for a healthy diet is to follow the Dietary Guidelines for Americans. These are prepared by scientists and approved by agriculture and human services’ secretaries every five years. The 2020-2025 version was just published and provides a wealth of information about food and healthy lifestyles.
GMO Crops There are 11 commercially available GMO crops in the U.S.: corn (f ield and sweet), soybeans, canola, cotton, alfalfa, sugar beets, summer squash, papaya, apples and potatoes.
We want to hear what piques your curiosity about agriculture! Share your thoughts at iowa
soybeans papaya alfalfa
foodand family.com/ magazine/ feedback
sugar beets
cotton Scan to listen to an Iowa Food & Family Project Table
corn (field and sweet)
Talk podcast featuring Dr. Ruth
apples
MacDonald. In the podcast, she helps listeners separate fact f rom f iction about food labels.
canola potatoes
summer squash
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fresh picked
Farm Life in the Summer R E F L E C T I O N S O N B A L I N G H AY , M O D E R N A G R I C U LT U R E A N D F A M I LY F A R M S By Amy Nelson
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Photos by Joseph L. Murphy
I
love summer in Iowa – the long days and warm nights, watching fireflies in the yard and listening to the animals once the sun has finally set.
Amy Nelson is a fifth-generation farmer who grows soybeans and corn and raises cattle. She is an active member of CommonGround Iowa, the Scott County Farm Bureau Board and the Iowa Soybean Association. She lives near Davenport with her husband Randy and children Jakob and Courtney.
Many of my summer days are spent on an older tractor going round and round the hay fields to get the forage baled and put away to feed the cattle after the pastures dry up and through the following winter. This is hot, dirty work. But I love the time it gives me to reflect on farming and how much it has changed. Making hay hasn’t changed all that much since I was little. We still must cut the hay, rake, bale and put it away. Now, we do primarily large round bales instead of the smaller square ones because our feeding system has changed, and the larger ones better fit our system. I can do round bales with a tractor vs. moving each one by hand. There is still a definite place for the small square bales put on
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the rack – one by one and then put up in the barns – one by one. We use them for individual cows, those in a special nursing pen or sometimes the doors in winter are all just frozen shut in the big barns, but the cows still need feed. Many farm kids remember baling hay as a way to make money in the summer. My dad told stories of making 1,000 bales each day and putting them in the barn. He would do this day after day, all summer for other neighbors while he was in high school. This year, my son and a couple of his friends have learned these skills and will carry on these memories of helping me refill the barns. They are senior football players, so I’ve coined this work their pre-season conditioning. Making the rounds to prepare this cutting of hay (there are usually four per summer assuming we get good timely rains) gives me time to think about how farming has
changed. I think about how many fewer times I drive across all my corn and soybean fields now than my grandpa and dad did. They would easily cover a field eight times a year and significantly disturb the dirt each time to prepare, plant and manage the weeds in the fields. I’m so thankful now that I have less intensive cultivation methods than the original John Deere plow. Now, after planting, I don’t disturb the soil at all. With the help of my agronomists, we do a lot of scouting or looking at the fields. We check for weeds or insects that are so invasive they choke out the growth of the crop. If we find these culprits, we apply
a specific herbicide or insecticide only to that field or area of the field. For small areas, we will spray from a four-wheeler so that we leave as little compaction in the soil and only address that specific area of concern. All these advances help us to keep our soil quality high and reduce the herbicides or insecticides we use. I have a license from the state of Iowa that I must keep updated annually to use any of these chemicals (which is essentially the same Roundup® you use on your lawn) on my fields. This past year, I have thoroughly enjoyed sharing the seasons on the farm with you. It makes me so proud to share my story while letting you know how much
different farming is today than when my grandpa started in the Dust Bowl Era. In the 1930s, Grandpa started with a team of horses and picking corn by hand. Back then, farms really were just “family farms” because the total crops fed the equivalent of about four people annually. When my dad started farming as an adult in the 1960s, his operation fed about 26 people each year. I started my adult farming journey in early 2000, and I’m proud that 95% of farms are still family-owned. Today’s farms, like mine, help to feed 166 people annually both here and abroad, providing food security to more people than ever.
In the 1930s, my grandpa’s farm fed the e q u i v a l e n t o f a b o u t f o u r p e o p l e . To d a y ’ s f a r m s help to feed 166 people annually.
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Iowa Soybean Association, 1255 SW Prairie Trail Parkway, Ankeny, Iowa 50023
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