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The Joy of Making Miso
The Joy of Making Miso
A TRUE CELEBRATION OF PATIENCE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP
By Haley Banwart
Making miso — a fermented soybean paste — is as much an art as it is a science. The process involves a meticulous balance of time, fermentation and quality ingredients. For small business owner Tomie Sasaki-Hesselink, mastering this craft has been a labor of love for more than a decade.
Raised in Japan and inspired by the sweeping soybean fields she discovered after moving to Cedar Falls, Hesselink began making miso for her family to enjoy. What started as a personal endeavor has since sprouted into Iowa Miso, a smallbatch, artisan producer that brings the timeless tradition of miso-making to the heart of the Midwest.
Ancient Origins
Miso is a versatile fermented food with a culinary history spanning over a thousand years. Its origins can be traced back to ancient China, where early forms of miso were brought to Japan around the 7th century.
While the process of making miso has remained largely unchanged, it is not a single, uniform product. Different regions of Japan developed their own variations of miso based on local ingredients and climate conditions.
For example, soybeans and koji-rice are the primary ingredients in traditional miso recipes. However, miso can also be made using other grains like wheat or barley in combination with soybeans. As a result, miso comes in many varieties, each offering a unique color and taste.
Mild and sweet, or bold and salty, every batch of miso reveals a different character that changes with the ingredients and the length of fermentation. This complex, ever-evolving process makes miso-making a true celebration of patience and craftsmanship.
Four Simple Ingredients
Iowa Miso is made from four simple ingredients: organic Iowa soybeans, koji rice (cooked rice that has been inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae, a mold commonly used in food fermentation across East Asia), sea salt and water.
“When I first started making miso, I researched and experimented with different recipes I found online,” Hesselink shares. “I also drew on memories of how my family consumed homemade miso from a giant wooden tub, and during a trip to Japan, I visited three local miso-meisters to learn their techniques.”
“Initially, I bought koji rice, but now I make it myself,” she says. “The process starts with washing and soaking the grains for about eight hours, then draining and steaming the rice. I sprinkle Aspergillus spores over the freshly cooked rice and place it in a warm, humid environment for about 48 hours, where the mold forms a white, fluffy coating.”
Hesselink sources the whole soybeans from a local Iowa farmer, and those are prepared similarly. First, the soybeans are cleaned and soaked in water for about 10 hours before they are cooked. Then, the soybeans are mixed and ground together with a blend of koji, salt and water, creating the base for fermentation.
Aged Like Fine Wine
The mixture is carefully packed and left to age, allowing the miso to ferment anywhere from one to three years. Three distinct varieties of Iowa Miso are crafted from the same four ingredients:
AMBER: Aged for 1 year, with a mellow sweetness that slowly transitions to a nutty, tangy flavor.
RUBY: Aged for 2 years, offering a richer, more developed flavor profile.
GOLD: Aged for 3 years with a stronger, more robust taste that sets it apart.
“The final product’s taste and color are influenced by the amount of soybeans I use and the length of fermentation,” Hesselink explains. “Amber miso is a great option for beginners — it’s mild and easy to use in various recipes. Gold is my signature miso; you won’t find this type as easily elsewhere. Like a fine wine, it has a well-rounded, full-bodied flavor.”
Culturally Significant Superfood
Miso is a culturally significant Japanese staple valued for its savory umami flavor, nutritional benefits and health-promoting properties. Packed with protein and probiotics, this superfood has a smooth, peanut butter-like texture that adds depth and richness to recipes.
A variety of Iowa misoinspired dishes, including soups, dips, dressings and salt replacements, can be found on Hesselink’s website. One of her favorite ways to serve it is on sourdough bread with unsalted butter and locally produced honey — a delightful combination of four fermented ingredients on one plate.
Hesselink suggests starting the day with a warm cup of miso soup for a quick and easy way to enjoy miso. Just add a teaspoon of miso to boiling water, steep, stir and enjoy.
Connecting with Community
Starting Iowa Miso has been more than just creating a product for Hesselink — it’s a way for her to connect with her community and beyond. After the 2011 earthquake and tsunami devastated her hometown of Miyako, Japan, Hesselink helped raise $10,000 for recovery efforts with support from Cedar Valley residents.
“Making Iowa Miso is my way of giving back to a community that has shown me so much kindness,” she says. “Living in a state known for its soybeans and being able to create a healthy, fermented product is something I’m really proud of.”
“There’s a joy in every step of making miso, from the initial excitement of starting a new batch to the anticipation of waiting for it to ferment. But the best part is bringing it to others, letting them taste it and hearing stories of how it’s brought them happiness,” she adds.
