IBUKI Magazine Vol. 07 September & October 2010

Japanese Inspired Food and Lifestyle Magazine

Eating Healthy Japanese Style 11 Healthy

Recipes Avocado Tofu Edamame Hummus Natto Riceball Japanese Low Cal Dressing

Plus:

Seattle’s Japantown September & October 2010 Vol. 07 Seattle / Bellevue / Portland

FREE

2 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

CONTENTS

FEATURE 4

Eating Healthy Japanese Style

What makes the Japanese diet healthy and how do we infuse it into our own lives? This issue, we look at the thought process behind Japanese cuisine. Plus we have lots of easy-to-follow recipes.

RECIPES: 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

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Avocado Tofu / Edamame Hummus Open-Faced Natto Sandwich Natto Rice Ball/Natto Dressing Pickled Salad with Wakame Japanese Low Cal Dressing Soba with Mashed Tofu Sukiyaki Soba Sushi

Signs of a Resurgence in Japantown

This once thriving Japanese neighborhood is becoming one of the more desirable shopping and dining destinations.

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EAT & DRINK 16

Restaurant Directory

LIFESTYLE 19 20

26

i fart rainbow Store & School Directory

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Music: Dir En Grey Book: Food Sake Tokyo Gadget: Kokonatchi Movie: 20th Century Boys 3: Redemption

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The Panama Hotel and public bath tour

Travel — Kyushu Travel to Japan’s southernmost main island for hot springs, delicious ramen and scenic settings.

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Local News and Events

IBUKI Magazine Vol. 07 September & October 2010 Publisher Misa Murohashi English Cartier Editor-in-Chief Bruce Rutledge Editor and Translator Yuko Enomoto Editor Jessica Sattell

Contributing Writers & Artists Enfu (Ken Taya) Julian Waters Steve Corless Johnnie Stroud (Saké Nomi) Special Thanks Chin Music Press

Comments and general inquiries info@ibukimagazine.com Advertising Info advertise@ibukimagazine.com Become our fan on Facebook

Published by Axia Media Group, Inc. Bellevue, WA 98005 www.ibukimagazine.com 3

息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Finding 和 (Wa) on the Plate

By Bruce Rutledge

he Japanese love of food is legendary. “You don’t have ‘foodies’ there (because) everybody loves food,” says Naomi Kakiuchi, founder of NuCulinary, a Seattle company specializing in cooking classes and workshops. But as the Japanese diet Westernizes, obesity rates rise. The truth is that the Japanese diet just seems healthier than our own. Why is that?

The Japanese people refer to their food as washoku, a word that combines the characters for “harmony” and “meal.”

Finding harmony on the plate and in one’s diet is the essence of Japanese cuisine. The ideal Japanese meal has a harmony of tastes and food groups and colors. Everything is in balance, even the chinaware.

“Japanese food is mystical for some people,” says Kakiuchi.

“They’ll love it but they won’t know why. It’s a subtle cuisine that doesn’t slap you in the face.”

It also doesn’t slap the calories on your thighs or midriff. While a Japanese meal can be high in salt, it is also typically low in fat, well balanced and has about 25% fewer calories than a comparable American meal, according to some statistics.

It is said that the Japanese eat with their eyes as much as their stomachs. Kakiuchi points out that a traditional Japanese meal will have five colors, five tastes (that’s sweet, sour, salty, bitter and that indefinable term, umami), have food prepared in five ways (“steamed, simmered, stir-fried, raw and baked or broiled”) and appeal to the five senses. “Philosophy is a really big piece of what Japanese cuisine is,” she says.

Another key piece of Japanese food is fermentation. “The soul of Japanese food is fermented food,” says Minami Satoh, who

T

4 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

operates Japan Traditional Foods Inc. Natto, miso, pickled vegetables called tsukemono and vinegar are just a few examples of fermented items that play a key role in the cuisine. Even the quintessentially Japanese sushi began as a way of preserving fish, which was fermented in boiled rice. Fermented foods, especially fresh or “live” fermented foods, are said to boost one’s immune system and fight disease by increasing antibodies in the intestines.

Sushi chef Shiro Kashiba, who runs Shiro’s in Belltown, says Japanese cuisine is also about fresh, local and seasonal food.

He recommends that if you’re interested in infusing your diet with more Japanese food, don’t try to import everything from Japan. Instead, substitute the Northwest’s natural resources.

If a recipe calls for the increasingly threatened bluefin tuna, for example, why not substitute the local and more plentiful albacore?

Instead of importing ingredients, perhaps it’s more important to import that philosophy that Kakiuchi mentioned. “There is a sense of being at one with nature and appreciating the sacrifice the food has made,” she says.

To learn more about the deep, healthy traditions of Japanese cuisine, try one of these books recommended by Kakiuchi: Washoku, Elizabeth Andoh The Japanese Kitchen, Hiroko Shimbo The Sushi Experience, Hiroko Shimbo (comes with a foldout page that helps you order at the sushi bar) The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook, Patricia Tanumihardja On the next few pages, we offer some easy-to-follow recipes that use traditional Japanese ingredients in playful, unique ways.

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息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Soy Products T

The soybean, full of lean protein, has long been a favorite of vegetarians. It plays a central role in Japanese cuisine, too, bringing us soy sauce, miso paste, tofu and edamame, those tasty green soybeans in a pod. Soy products used in a balanced diet offer all sorts of health benefits. Some studies show soy products are good for your heart and for lowering cholesterol because they are low in unsaturated fats as well as being chock full of good proteins. A re-

Tofu

cent article in The Manila Bulletin contends that “Asians who are high consumers of soy … are likely to have 50% reduced risk of having a stroke or heart attack, independent of their blood cholesterol levels.”

The Food and Drug Administration has also given a nod to soy’s health benefits, saying 25 grams of soy protein a day may help reduce heart disease. The soybean is a versatile bean, and there are many ways to incorporate the “miracle bean” into your diet.

As Buddhism spread in the 8th Century, so did the Buddhists’ vegetarian cuisine. Tofu, a soybean curd, made its way from China to Japan around this time, and it’s been embraced as an integral part of Japanese cuisine ever since. Tofu has few calories, little fat and is rich in iron. It has little taste, which allows it to be used in both sweet and savory dishes. Japanesestyle tofu is typically made from soybeans, water and nigari, a coagulant derived from seawater.

Edamame Edamame, immature soybeans still in the pod, provide a healthy snack option to potato chips and other salty fare. Just boil the pods in salted water, drain and enjoy. The edamame is plucked from the bush before the bean has a chance to harden. It’s a rich source of phosphorous and vitamin A. Edamame is also used in soups, desserts and dips such as the one on the opposite page.

NuCulinary www.nuculinary.com Naomi Kakiuchi founded NuCulinary to teach people how to cook. After growing up on a farm south of Seattle and working in the kitchen with her family, she realized that cooking was her calling and her passion. She has been sharing that passion ever since. Kakiuchi and the chefs and nutritionists who work with her conduct private group classes in Asian cuisine, corporate culinary team-building exercises and in-home cooking parties. Kakiuchi also makes guest appearances in local cooking schools, and as of this fall, she’ll be an adjunct professor teaching a class on “The Business of Food” at Bastyr University. NuCulinary has helped hundreds, if not thousands, of Seattle area cooks feel more comfortable with Asian ingredients and recipes. When teaching classes on Japanese cuisine, Kakiuchi often teams with Hajime Sato of Mashiko in West Seattle. Some of the recipes on these pages were provided by NuCulinary.

For more information on NuCulinary’s classes and workshops, check out www.nuculinary.com.

6 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

Avocado Tofu Salad Ingredients (2 servings) 1/4 avocado 1/2 block silk tofu 3 bunches green onion 1/2 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tomato sliced (optional)

Directions 1. Chop green onion and mix with soy sauce and sesame oil.

2. Mash avocado with fork. Add hint of lime juice to keep avocado from turning brown.

3. Cut tofu into bite-sized pieces and top with avocado, then mix in green onions.

4. Serve with thinly sliced tomatoes.

Edamame Hummus Ingredients (Makes 1 ½ cups) 2 garlic cloves 1/2 cup Italian parsley 1 ½ cups frozen blanched shelled edamame 4 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 2 tablespoons tahini ¼ cup water 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon paprika for garnish

Directions 1. Turn on food processor and drop garlic down feed tube to mince. Open cover and add parsley. Pulse to chop.

2. Add remaining ingredients except for 2 teaspoons oil and paprika and process 1 minute or until smooth. Spoon hummus into a serving bowl. Drizzle with 2 teaspoons olive oil and sprinkle with paprika.

3. Serve with pita chips, rice crackers or cut vegetables

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息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Natto Ambassador Gets Americans to Try the Sticky Stuff

“It’s the healthiest food in Japan,” says natto enthusiast and head of Japan Traditional Foods Inc. Minami Satoh.

“But Americans only know the frozen kind, not the real kind.”

Many Americans might not even know the frozen kind. Of all the soybean offshoots found in Japanese cuisine, natto -- sticky, fermented soybeans typically served over rice -- may be the hardest to get Americans to eat. Even some Japanese people shy away from the food.

That doesn’t daunt Satoh, who has heard all the usual complaints before. His answer: try fresh natto before you pass judgment on this versatile, healthy, stick-to-your-ribs food. The fresh stuff “is not stinky,” he says, rebuffing a typical complaint levied against natto. Plus, he says, it doesn’t need to be served only with white rice. Try an open-faced natto sandwich, or natto and spaghetti or natto bruschetta, he implores. (For more mouthwatering recipes, check out his company’s site: http://www.meguminatto.com/) “Cook it with your favorite ingredients. try mayonaisse, dressing, olive oil; serve it on tortillas, rice or spaghetti,” he says.

Even those who don’t have a taste for natto admit it is incredibly good for you. It is said to reduce blood clots and be good for circulation. Like other soybean dishes, it’s high in protein, plus it has lots of dietary fiber and is gluten free. And when you buy the fresh stuff, it comes with no preservatives.

So why do even some Japanese complain that it stinks? “It has a bad image that it smells because of the industrial, mass-manufactured foods,” Satoh explains. “Fresh natto is totally different in smell and texture. “It is almost equal to beef in protein. It’s nine times richer than beef in vitamin E. And it’s three times richer in vitamin B2,” Satoh says.

If you’re tempted, you can find natto on sale at Uwajimaya. Look for Megumi Natto if you want to try Mr. Satoh’s brand. Or order directly from his website: http://www.meguminatto.com/order.html

Natto

Satoh’s fresh natto brands

Open -face Natto Sandwich Ingredients (1 serving) 1 slice country-style bread 2 tablespoons natto, chopped 2 teaspoons mayonnaise Salt and black pepper Curry powder

Directions 1. Put the natto, mayonnaise, a pinch of curry powder in a small bowl and stir well.

2. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Spread the bread with the natto paste and grill it in a toaster oven or broil it until golden brown.

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Natto Rice Balls Ingredients (2 servings) 2 1/2 cups cooked, still warm short-grain brown rice Natto miso sauce: 5 tablespoons (rounded) natto, chopped 2 tablespoons miso, preferably mixed miso (made of 1 tablespoon white miso and tablespoon brown miso) 2 or 3 walnuts, roasted and chopped 1/2 tablespoon pine nuts, roasted and chopped 1 white leek stem, finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon sake 1 teaspoon mirin (Japanese sweet cooking sake)

Directions 1. In a mixing bowl, add the miso, sake and mirin, and stir well.

2. Add the remaining ingredients of the natto miso sauce and stir to combine.

3. Divide the rice into 4 portions and make rice balls.

4. Spread the natto miso sauce on the rice balls.

5. Bake in a hot oven until the rice balls are crisp. Serve hot.

Natto Dressing Ingredients (2 servings) About 40 grams (1.5 oz) of natto, chopped 3 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 5 tablespoons sesame seed oil 1 tablespoon squeezed ginger juice (grate and squeeze ginger to get juice) 2 tablespoons white roasted sesame seeds

Directions 1. Chop natto finely.

2. In a bowl, combine soy sauce, rice vinegar and ginger juice.

3. Slowly add sesame seed oil and combine everything well.

4. Add sesame seeds.

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息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Seaweed ori and wakame are two popular types of seaweed found in Japanese cuisine. Their health benefits are manifold, which is why you’ll see diet pills featuring them and hear about the trace elements seaweed contains. But instead of swallowing pills, why not incorporate the real thing into your diet? Seaweed goes well in miso soup, sprinkled on rice or mixed into myriad other dishes.

These sea vegetables are high in protein and low in fat. They’re rich in minerals and vitamins too. Some people even say it helps hair growth.

Nori, used in sushi, comes in sheets that can be lightly roasted by passing them over an open flame, says Chef Shiro Kashiba of Shiro’s in Belltown. But check before you do this, because a lot of nori bought in stores comes pre-roasted. Wakame can be tough to cut and stringier than nori. The Japanese typically use kitchen shears, not a knife, to cut it. You can find it both fresh and dried in supermarkets. It’s perfect for a seaweed salad (daikon radish and wakame, for example) or to put in miso soup.

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Wakame

Pickled Salad with Wakame Ingredients (2 servings) 1/2 sweet onion, finely sliced 1 English cucumber, finely sliced 2 tablespoons dried wakame 2 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 teaspoon salt

Directions 1. Hydrate dried wakame by soaking in a bowl of water.

2. Mix sliced cucumber and onion with salt and set aside for a few minutes. Squeeze moisture out and drain well.

3. Drain wakame and add to onion and cucumber. Add rice vinegar and soy sauce and mix.

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:

Low Cal Dressing with a Japanese Twist Try Japanese flavors to make rich yet low fat dressing

Soy Sauce & Onion

Miso & Mustard

Ingredients

Directions

Ingredients

Directions

1/4 small onion, chopped 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 tablespoon black pepper

Mix all ingredients well.

2 tablespoons miso 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1/2 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 tablespoon mustard

Mix all ingredients well.

Two tablespoons contains: 41 cal / 38 cal from fat

Two tablespoons contains: 51 cal / 42 cal from fat

Try this miso & mustard dressing.

Simply mix with wakame.

You will love it!

Vinegar Helps Appetite, Fights Fatigue Vinegar, especially rice vinegar, is used in Japanese cuisine to bring out that sour or bitter taste in dishes or to add an acidic flair. Sushi is essentially fish on top of vinegared rice. Rice vinegar is produced from fermented rice. When it is seasoned with sugar and salt, it is often called seasoned rice vinegar, which has a mild taste.

Vinegar is used to protect against spoiling too. In the summer, families will sprinkle a little rice vinegar on cooked rice to make sure it doesn’t go bad. Vinegar stimulates the appetite and alleviates fatigue. It also helps reduce the desire for salt and lowers the blood pressure. Rice vinegar is typically a little sweeter and lower in calories than wine vinegars, making it an ideal ingredient in salad dressings.

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息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Soba

Soba

oodles made of buckwheat flour, known as soba in Japan, are served hot and cold. Zarusoba, the cold noodles, are served in the summer with a dipping sauce. In colder months, soba comes in soups. Like pasta, it can be found in dried form in the supermarket, but freshly made soba is a whole other realm of delicious.

Soba can be a good diet food. It has nearly twice the amount of protein of a similar serving of white rice and is full of vitamins B1 and B2. It also promotes regularity. Soba contains choline, which is a nutrient found in the B vitamins that is helpful in adjusting metabolism and lowering blood pressure and cholesterol. A quick search of “choline” on the Internet will reveal all sorts of dietary supplements. If you’re trying to stay on a low-calorie, balanced diet, then soba should have a place on your table.

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Soba with smashed tofu Ingredients (1 serving) 1 package soba noodles 1/4 block tofu 1/2 bunch spinach 3 tablespoons noodle broth (tsuyu) 1 teaspoon wasabi

Directions

Check out more recipes online

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12 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

1. In a large pot, bring 4-6 quarts of water to a boil. Cook soba noodles 4-6 minutes or as instructed on package.

2. Cook spinach in salted boiling water for 1 minute and then cool down in cold water. Drain well.

3. Mash tofu well with mixer. Add 2 tablespoons noodle base with wasabi, then mix again.

4. Mix cooked soba, spinach, 2 tablespoons noodle base and 4 tablespoons water. Serve on a plate topped with mashed tofu.

Shirataki hirataki noodles are often referred to as “miracle noodles” for their amazing health and dietary benefits. They are thin, gelatinous, translucent noodles made from konnyaku, sometimes called devil’s tongue or konjac and known as the “no-calorie food” in Japan (konnyaku does have some calories, but very few). The shirataki noodles have little taste and are made up mostly of a water-soluble dietary fiber called glucomannan, which is difficult for people to digest. It cleans out your intestines as it passes through. Plus, the noodles have no fat.

Shirataki noodles are a staple of Japanese hotpot, or nabe, dishes such as sukiyaki. But they can also be served cold in salads. Uwajimaya supermarket has several types of shirataki noodles for sale. Other supermarkets with extensive Asian offerings also carry them. Lately, American supermarkets have started stocking tofu-based shirataki noodles. While these can be delicious too, they have a shorter shelf life and contain a few more carbs.

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Shirataki

Sukiyaki Ingredients (4-6 servings) 1 lb boneless beef sliced 1/8 inch thick (sirloin, top round) 2 tablespoons sake (for marinade) 8 dried shiitake mushrooms, rehydrated (or ½ pound fresh) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or beef suet 1 package (7 oz.) shirataki noodles 4 naganegi leeks, white part cut diagonally into 1½ inch pieces 1 large onion, cut in half lengthwise, then cut in ½ inch slices 1 carrot, cut into matchsticks 1 tofu, cut into 1 inch squares 1 bunch green onions, cut diagonally in 1½ inch pieces 1 cup bamboo shoots, sliced 8 large Napa cabbage leaves, cut lengthwise into halves then crosswise into 1 ½ inch pieces or 1 bunch mizuna or shungiku cut in 2 inch long pieces.

Sukiyaki Sauce: ½ cup sake or white wine ½ cup soy sauce ¼ cup mirin (sweet cooking sake) or sherry ¾ cup dashi, or water from soaking the shiitake

Directions 1. Cut meat into 3 inch strips. Marinade beef in 2 tbsp sake for 15 min. Parboil shirataki noodles in boiling water for 2 min. Drain.

2. If using dried shiitake, place in warm water for 20 minutes to rehydrate (fresh shiitake just need a quick rinse). Cut off stems and cut x's (a cross mark) into the mushroom caps to release flavor. If you've chosen to use the shiitake water to make the sukiyaki sauce, set it aside for later.

3. Arrange all ingredients except sukiyaki sauce attractively on a large platter, keeping each item separate.

4. For sukiyaki sauce, combine soy sauce, sugar, mirin and dashi (or shiitake water) and stir until sugar dissolves. Pour into small pitcher.

5. Cut all vegetables as directed and arrange decoratively on large platter. Set an electric pan in center of table. All further cooking is done at the table as you eat.

6. Heat vegetable oil in electric pan. Saute beef slices. Spread each piece flat in the pan and flip after 30 seconds. Remove from pan and set aside.

7. Pour about half the sukiyaki sauce into pan. When sauce begins to boil, add vegetables and noodles in organized piles in the skillet.

Simmer 3-5 minutes or until vegetables have softened.

8. Dip cooked sukiyaki into a bowl of raw, beaten eggs. As liquid begins to boil away and vegetables get depleted, add remainder of sukiyaki sauce and vegetables and let your guests help themselves to more.

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息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Eating Healthy Japanese Style

Soba Sushi by Hiroko Shimbo This recipe comes from Hiroko Shimbo’s The Japanese Kitchen, published by The Harvard Common Press in 2000. Shimbo is a well-known and widely admired authority on Japanese cuisine For more info about her and her cookbooks, visit http://www.hirokoskitchen.com.

Ingredients (4-6 servings) 14 oz dried soba 7 oz bunch of spinach 2 oz (about ¼) red bell pepper, julienned 2 abura-age (fried thin tofu) sheets ¼ cup sake ¼ cup mirin (sweet cooking wine) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon soy sauce 4 nori sheets, toasted Condiments Noodle base Wasabi ¼ cup scallion rings, green part only (or green onion)

Directions 1. In a large pot, bring 4-6 quarts of water to a boil. Cook noodles al dente, 4-6 minutes or as instructed on the package. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse them under cold running water, rubbing them between your hands until they are cold and no longer starchy on the outside. Drain the noodles well.

2. In a medium pot, cook the spinach in salted boiling water for 1 minute. Remove the spinach with chopsticks and cool it under cold running water. Squeeze tightly to remove excess water in a bamboo rolling mat and cut off the roots.

3. Put the red bell pepper into a fine-meshed strainer that will fit into the pot of boiling water. Blanch the red bell pepper for 20 seconds.

Remove the pepper and cool it under cold running water.

4. In the same pot of boiling water, blanch the abura-age for 20 seconds, turning it over once. Drain the abura-age and cool it under cold running water. Cut the abura-age in half lengthwise and then into thin strips crosswise.

5. In a small saucepan, combine the abura-age, sake and mirin. Add enough water to cover the abura-age. Bring the mixture to a boil, add the sugar, cover the pan with a drop lid and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Add the soy sauce and cook until almost all the liquid is absorbed.

6. Place a bamboo rolling mat on a counter. Lay one nori sheet on it shiny side down, aligning the short edge of the nori with the short edge of the mat directly in front of you. Cover the nori with ¼ of the noodles, leaving 1 inch uncovered at the far end for sealing the roll.

Evenly distribute the spinach in a thin strip across the center of the noodles. Place the bell pepper on top of the spinach and the abura-age on top of the pepper. With the aid of the bamboo mat, gently roll up the sushi.

7. Make three more rolls the same way. Cut each roll into eight disks. Serve the sushi with individual small bowls of noodle-dipping sauce, wasabi and scallions. The wasabi and scallions are mixed into the dipping sauce in the quantity desired.

14 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

SAKE

酒呑

Clearing Up “Unfiltered” Saké

By Johnnie Stroud, owner of Saké Nomi

Folks often come to Saké Nomi telling us how much they love the “unfiltered stuff.” We do, too, and when asked for recommendations, we gladly point out some of our favorites.

“Hold on,” the customer will say after a couple of minutes.

“Those sake are clear.” Yes, we reply, sake can be clear and unfiltered.

Nigori vs. Muroka In Japanese saké production, there is a distinction between the processes of pressing (jousou), which might be thought of as “rough filtering,” and filtering (roka), which can be considered “fine filtering.” (For a simple summary of the brewing process, please visit our website at: http://www.sakenomi.us/brewing. html.)

Most people (and sushi restaurant menus) usually refer to nigori (or nigorizake) as “unfiltered,” saké, when in truth, “roughly pressed” would be a more accurate description. In fact, the term nigori means “cloudy” or “unclear” and does not refer to filtration at all.

During saké production, after the three-to-six-week fermentation is complete, the main mash (moromi) is the consistency of oatmeal or porridge. This mixture is pressed through a mesh to separate the clear saké from the unfermented rice solids (kasu).

Depending on how coarse or porous the mesh filter material is, the resulting saké will be clear or cloudy.

Nigorizake is a style of saké that has been roughly pressed in order to retain some of the saké kasu. While the majority of nigori in the U.S. tends to be on the sweet side, there is a wide range of flavor profiles and textures to be had.

The term roka refers to a filtration process where, after the moromi has been pressed, powdered carbon is added to the clear saké, making it black, and the resulting mixture is then run through the mesh filter again, stripping away unwanted “off” flavors and coloring.

Unfiltered or muroka (the prefix “mu” meaning “un-” or “not”) saké has not been carbon filtered and therefore retains the saké’s natural greenish gold-to-amber tint. While muroka saké can be less refined than filtered sake, it can be expressive of the saké’s natural character and quite elegant in a simple, down-to-basics way.

Johnnie Stroud, is the owner of Saké Nomi, the saké shop and tasting bar in Pioneer Square.

Saké Nomi 76 South Washington Street, Seattle Tel 206-467-SAKE www.ibukimagazine.com 15

Restaurant Directory SEATTLE Greater Seattle Mashiko Japanese Restaurant (206) 935-4339 4725 California Ave SW, Seattle Check out sushiwhore.com You’ll like it.

Kaname Izakaya Shochu Bar (206) 682-1828 Comfortable family atmosphere, great bargains kaname-izakaya.com

Kushibar

(206) 448-2488 2319 2nd Ave, Seattle www.kushibar.com

Shiro’s Sushi Restaurant (206) 443-9844 2401 2nd Ave, Seattle www.shiros.com

Maekawa Bar

(206) 622-0634 601 S King St # 206,Seattle

Fort St. George

(206) 382-0662 601 S King St # 202, Seattle Aloha Ramen (206) 838-3837 8102 Greenwood Ave N, Seattle Aoki Japanese Grill & Sushi Bar (206) 324-3633 621 Broadway E, Seattle Blue C Sushi - University Village (206) 525-4601 4601 26th Ave NE, Seattle

Blue C Sushi - Fremont (206) 633-3411 3411 Fremont Ave N, Seattle Blue C Sushi - 7th avenue (206) 467-4022 1510 7th Ave, Seattle Boom Noodle, Capitol Hill (206) 701-9130 1121 E Pike St, Seattle www.boomnoodle.com Boom Noodle, University Village (206) 523-6594 2675 NE Village Lane, Seattle www.boomnoodle.com Bush Garden Restaurant (206)682-6830 614 Maynard Avenue S., Seattle Cutting Board (206) 767-8075 5503 Airport Way S, Seattle Chiso (206) 632-3430 3520 Fremont Ave. N, Seattle Fuji Sushi (206) 624-1201 520 S Main St, Seattle Genki Sushi - Queen Anne (206) 453-3881 500 Mercer St. Unit C-2, 2B, Seattle Genki Sushi - Capitol Hill ((206) 257-4418 1620 Broadway, Seattle Hana Restaurant (206) 328-1187 219 Broadway E, Seattle Hiroshi’s Restaurant (206) 726-4966 2501 Eastlake Ave E, Seattle I Love Sushi - Lake Union 206-625-9604 1001 Fairview Ave N, Seattle Imo Asian Bistro (206) 264-9570 704 1st Ave, Seattle Issian (206) 632-7010 1618 N 45th St, Seattle Japonessa Sushi Cocina (206) 971-7979 1400 1st Ave, Seattle

J Sushi (206) 287-9000 674 S Weller St, Seattle Kisaku (206) 545-9050 2101 N. 55th St. #100, Seattle Kozue Japanese Restaurant (206) 547-2008 1608 N 45th St, Seattle Maneki (206) 622-2631 304 6th Ave S, Seattle Marinepolis Sushi Land -Queen Anne Hill (206) 267-7621 803 5th Ave N, Seattle Moshi Moshi Sushi (206) 971-7424 5324 Ballard Avenue, Seattle Nishino (206) 322-5800 3130 E Madison St # 106, Seattle Nijo (206) 340-8880 89 Spring St, Seattle Ototo Sushi (206) 691-3838 7 Boston St, Seattle Red Fin Sushi Restaurant (206) 441-4340 612 Stewart St, Seattle Samurai Noodle -International District (206) 624-9321 606 5th Ave St, Seattle Samurai Noodle - University District (206) 547-1774 4138 University Way NE, Seattle Shiki Japanese Restaurant (206) 281-1352 4W Roy St, Seattle Shun Japanese Cuisine (206) 522-2200 5101 NE 25th Ave #11, Seattle Tsukushinbo (206) 467-4004 515 S Main St, Seattle Toyoda Sushi (206) 367-7972 12543 Lake City Way, Seattle Wabi-Sabi Sushi Bar & Restaurant (206) 721-0212 4909 Rainier Ave S, Seattle

Come Experience Japanese street food

kushibar www.kushibar.com

2319 2nd Ave, Seattle, WA 98121 | (202) 448-2488 | Hours: Weekdays 11:30 am – 1am, Weekends 4 pm – 1am 16 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

Wasabi Bistro (206) 441-6044 2311 2nd Ave, Seattle Wann Japanese Izakaya (206) 441-5637 2020 2nd Ave, Seattle

North End Cafe Soleil

(425) 493-1847 9999 Harbour Place # 105, Mukilteo Bluefin Sushi & Seafood Buffet (206) 367-0115 401 NE Northgate Way # 463, Seattle Blue C Sushi - the Village at Alderwood Mall (425) 329-3596 3000 184th St SW, Lynnwood Edina Sushi (425) 776-8068 19720 44th Ave W, Lynnwood Marinepolis Sushi Land -Lynnwood (425) 275-9022 18500 33rd Ave NW, Lynnwood Matsu Sushi (425) 771-3368 19505 44th Ave W #K, Lynnwood Sakuma Japanese Restaurant (425) 347-3063 10924 Mukilteo Speedway # G, Mukilteo

Setsuna Japanese Restaurant and Bar (206) 417-3175 11204 Roosevelt Way NE, Seattle Taka Sushi (425) 778-1689 18904 Hwy 99 Suite A, Lynnwood Tengu Sushi (206) 525-9999 301 NE 103 St, Seattle

Genki Sushi -Renton (425) 277-1050 365 S. Grady Way Ste. B & C, Renton Marinepolis Sushi Land -Southcenter Mall (206) 816-3280 100 Andover Park West 160, Tukwila Bistro Satsuma (253) 858-5151 5315 Point Fosdick Dr NW #A, Gig Harbor

South End New Zen Japanese Restaurant (425) 254-1599 10720 SE Carr Rd, Japanese Fami Res -Family Restaurant www.newzensushi.com

Miyabi Restaurant

(206) 575-6815 16820 Southcenter Parkway, Tukwila Blue C Sushi - Westfield Southcenter (206) 277-8744 468 Southcenter Mall, Tukwila Blossom Asian Bistro (425) 430-1610 305 Burnett Avenue South, Renton

www.ibukimagazine.com 17

Restaurant Directory Eastside Dozo Cafe

(425) 644-8899 3720 Factoria Blvd SE Try authentic Ramen.

No MSG.

Sushi Joa

(206) 230-4120 2717 78th Ave SE, Mercer Island www. sushijoa.com Boom Noodle, Bellevue Square (425) 453-6094 504 Bellevue Square, Bellevue Blue C Sushi, Bellevue Square (425) 454-8288 503 Bellevue Square, Bellevue Blue Ginger Korean Grill & Sushi (425) 746-1222 14045 NE 20th St, Bellevue Flo Japanese Sushi Restaurant (425) 453-4005 1188 106th Ave NE, Bellevue Ginza Japanese Restaurant (425) 709-7072 103 102nd Ave SE, Bellevue I Love Sushi -One Lake Bellevue (425) 455-9090 23 Lake Bellevue Dr, Bellevue I Love Sushi -Bellevue Main (425) 454-5706 11818 NE 8th St, Bellevue Izakaya Sushi - at The Landing (425) 228-2800 829 N 10th St. Suite G, Renton Izumi Japanese Restaurant with Sushi-Bar (425) 821-1959 12539 116th Ave N.E., Kirkland Kobe Wellbeing Tonkatsu & Tao Sushi Bar (425) 451-3888 850 110th Ave NE, Bellevue Kikuya Restaurant (425) 881-8771 8105 161st Ave NE, Redmond

CAFE Soleil www.cafe-soleil.net

Kiku Sushi (425) 644-2358 15555 NE 24th St, Bellevue Rikki Rikki Authentic Japanese Restaurant (425) 828-0707 442 Parkplace Center, Kirkland Marinepolis Sushi Land -Bellevue (425) 455-2793 138 107th Ave. NE, Bellevue Marinepolis Sushi Land -Redmond (425) 284-2587 8910 161st Ave NE, Redmond Sushi Maru (425) 453-0100 205 105th Ave, Bellevue Sushi Me (425) 644-9800 1299 156th Ave NE #145, Bellevue Momoya Restaurant (425) 889-9020 12100 NE 85th St, Kirkland Tokyo Japanese Restaurent (425) 641-5691 3500 Factoria Blvd SE, Bellevue 2AM (425) 643-1888 14603 NE 20th St #4, Bellevue

PORTLAND Portland Bamboo Sushi (503) 232-5255 310 SE 28th Ave, Portland Biwa Restaurant (503) 239-8830 215 SE 9th Avenue, Portland Blue Fin Sushi (503) 274-7922 1988 SW Broadway, Portland Bush Garden (503) 226-7181 900 SW Morrison St, Portland Crescendo noodle house & bar (503) 226-7181 16055 SW Regatta Lane, Beaverton Hiroshi Restaurant (503) 619-0559 926 NW 10th Ave, Portland

Koji Osakaya -Downtown Portland (503) 294-1169 606 SW Broadway, Portland Koji Osakaya - Lloyd Place (503) 280-0992 1502 NE Weidler, Portland Marinepolis Sushi Land -Lloyd (503) 280-0300 1409 NE Weidler St, Portland Marinepolis Sushi Land -Pearl (503) 546-9933 138 NW 10th Ave, Portland Mika Sushi (503) 222-0699 1425 SW 2nd Avenue, Portland Saburo’s Sushi House Restaurant (503) 236-4237 1667 SE Bybee Blvd, Portland Yuki Sushi & Sake Bar (503) 525-8807 930 NW 23rd Ave, Portland

Beaverton / Hillsboro Hakatamon (503) 641-4613 10500 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, Beaverton Hanabi’s Izakaya Bistro & Bar (503) 646-1986 10053 SW Nimbus Ave, Beaverton Ikenohana (503) 646-1267 14308 SW Allen Blvd, Beaverton Izakaya Kaiten Sushi (503) 643-2578 14605 SW Millikan Way, Beaverton I love Sushi (503) 644-5252 3655 SW Hall Blvd, Beaverton Koji Osakaya -Hillsboro (503) 629-1815 2215 NW Allie Ave, Hillsboro Marinepolis Sushi Land -Beaverton (503) 520-0257 4021 SW 117th Ave, Beaverton Syun Izakaya (503) 640-3131 209 NE Lincoln St, Hillsboro Sambi Japanese Restaurant (503) 296-0045 9230 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, Beaverton Sushi & Maki (503) 648-4366 2401 NE Cornell Rd No. X, Hillsboro Yuki Sushi & Sake Bar (503) 430-5275 1335 NE Orenco Station Pkwy, Hillsboro

Vancouver WA Marinepolis Sushi Land -Vancouver (360) 883-3881 1401 SE 164th Ave, Vancouver

9999 Harbour Place #105, Mukilteo | (425)493-1847 Tue-Fri 11-2:30 4:30-9, Sat & Sun 12-9, Closed Mon

18 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

www.ibukimagazine.com 19

Business Directory Art & Furniture Kobo

Kobo at Higo (206) 381-3000 604 S Jackson St, Seattle Kobo Capitol Hill (206) 726-0704 814 E Roy, Seattle Shop & gallery featuring art, craft and design from Japan and the Northwest koboseattle.com

Ming’s Asian Gallery

Seattle (206) 748-7889 519 6th Ave S, Seattle Bellevue (425) 462-4008 10217 Main St, Bellevue Fine antique and contemporary Asian furniture mingsgallery.com Azuma Gallery (206) 622-5599 530 1st Ave S, Seattle Takumi Company (206) 622-2804 JapaneseCarpentry.com

Carolyn Staley-Fine Japanese Prints (206) 621-1888 2003 Western Ave #107, Seattle Glenn Richards - Asian Furnishings & Antiques (206) 287-1877 964 Denny Way, Seattle The Cullom Gallery (206) 919-8278 603 S Main St, Seattle Shogun’s Gallery (503) 224-0328 1111 NW 23rd Ave, Portland The Wing Luke Museum (206) 623-5124 719 South King Street, Seattle

Bakery and Cafe Setsuko Pastry (206) 816 0348 1618 N 45th St, Seattle Fuji Bakery (425) 641-4050 1502 145the PL SE, Bellevue Fumie’s Gold (425) 223-5893 10045 Northeast 1st Street, Bellevue Hiroki Desserts (206) 547-4128 2224 N 56th St, Seattle Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee House (206) 515-4000 607 S Main St, Seattle

Preserving a Slice of American History

J

Books, Games & Anime Tokyo Japanese Lifestyle

Southcenter Mall Store (206) 241-0219 633 Southcenter Mall, Suite 1220, Seattle Northgate Mall Store 401 NE Northgate Way, Suite 740, Seattle (206) 363-3213 Tacoma Mall Store 4502 S Steele St, Suite 616, Tacoma (253) 475-5380 Caital Mall Store 625 Black Lake Blvd, Suite 334, Olympia (360) 943-5790 Anime Asylum (503) 284-6626 1009 Lloyd Center, Portland, OR Anime Raku (425) 454-0112 10627 NE 8th St, Bellevue Kinokuniya Book Store - Seattle (206) 587-2477 525 S Weller St, Seattle Kinokuniya Book Store - Beaverton (503) 641-6240 10500 SW Bvtn-Hillsdale Hwy, Beaverton Pink Gorilla - International District (206) 264-2434 601 S King St, Seattle

by Bruce Rutledge

an Johnson was interested in Italian culture and history, not Japanese. But when the West Seattle native came back from spending years in Rome and heard that the Panama Hotel building was being put up for sale, she had an epiphany: “This is American history, I thought.

It ought to be saved.” Johnson was unemployed at the time. But she is not a timid person. She approached Takashi Hori, then owner of the building, and said she wanted to buy the building.

“I have seven bonafide offers,” came the reply. But Johnson pressed on, and Hori must have seen something that impressed him because after awhile, a bank had given Johnson a loan to buy the building based on Hori’s recommendation. Hori turned out to be right. The Panama Hotel property is painstakingly preserved. Walking in the bathhouse, the only Japanese sento preserved Photos lining the cafe wall tell a story of in tact in the US, is like walking into prewar Seattle, when 8,500 Japanese families lived within Seattle’s Japanese American community. a five-block radius.”Imagine the gossip these walls have heard,” Johnson says as she gazes around the bathhouse during a recent tour of the hotel, teahouse and public bath.

Johnson’s teahouse is a treasure trove of information about Japantown right up to the internment of the Japanese in 1942. Look through the floor into the basement, where a hastily prepared suitcase is left just as it was found after the Japanese families had been taken away. The effect is chilling — as effective and in some ways far more moving than most museum exhibitions on the topic. “The internment wasn’t in my textbook. Was it in yours?” Johnson asks a recent book club group in her teahouse. To a person, the answer is no. Perhaps this is what fuels Johnson’s fire: the Looking into the basement. act of bearing witness.

A tour of the teahouse and bathhouse is informative and a little haunting when one considers what we Americans did to a once thriving community 68 years ago. The hotel is now a national landmark, but people can still stay there overnight. For tours or hotel reservations, call 206-223-9242 or email reservations@panamahotelseattle.com. Plan ahead and be persistent. Johnson is admittedly not fast to respond to emails, but once you get her, expect a memorable tour of a slice of American history on 6th Avenue and Main Street.

Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee House | (206) 515-4000 | 607 South Main Street, Seattle 20 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

Pink Gorilla - University District (206) 547-5790 4341 University Ave NE, Seattle VIDEO HOP Downtown Store (206) 587-4037 601 S. King St. Suite#101, Seattle

Fashion Momo

(206) 329-4736 600 S Jackson St, Seattle

General Store Daiso Alderwood Mall (425) 673-1825 3000 184th St SW, # 398, Lynnwood Daiso West Lake Center (206) 625-0076 400 Pine St. #1005, Seattle Daiso International District 76 S Washington St, Seattle

Grocery Store Anzen Hiroshi’s (503) 233-5111 736 NE MLK Blvd, Portland H-Mart -Lynwood (425)776-0858 3301 184th Street Southwest, Lynnwood Seattle Uwajimaya (206) 624-6248 600 5th Avenue South, Seattle Bellevue Uwajimaya (425)747-9012 15555 NE 24th St. & Bel Red Rd., Bellevue Renton Uwajimaya (425) 277-1635 501 South Grady Way, Renton Beaverton Uwajimaya (503)643-4512 10500 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale HWY, Beaverton

Japanese Confectionery Blue Camellia - a Japanese Confectionery (360) 376-1035 Kirkland and Orcas Island

Sake Sake in Seattle

(425) 780-7253 Sake tasting/educational events for corporations and private parties www.sakeinseattle.com Saké Nomi (206) 467-7253 76 S Washington St, Seattle

Schools Music School of Taiko (425) 785-8316 www.Japantaiko.com Cooking Blue Camellia - a Japanese Confectionery (425) 889-2735 11229 NE 106th Pl, Kirkland, WA Hiroko Sugiyama Culinary Atelier (425) 836-4635 22207 NE 31st St, Sammamish NuCulinary (206) 932-3855 6523 California Ave SW, Seattle Satsuma Cooking School (206) 244-5151 17105 Ambaum Blvd S, Seattle Japanese Calligraphy Akashi USA Co - Redmond (425) 869-0994 6611 147th Ct NE, Redmond Japanese Floral Design Ikebana by Megumi (425) 744-9751 www.ikebanabymegumi.com Ikenobo Lake Washington Chapter (425) 803-3268 11832 NE 73rd St, Kirkland The Little Flower Station (425) 770-5888 www.thelittleflowerstation.com Yushoryu Ikenobo (206) 723-4994 5548 Beason Ave. S.,Seattle

Language Seattle Japanese Language School (206) 323-0250 1414 S Weller St, Seattle Washington Academy of Languages (206) 682-4463 2 Nickerson St, # 201, Seattle Martial Arts Seattle Kendo Kai (206) 721-1416 1610 S King St, Seattle Seattle Judo Dojo (206) 324-7080 1510 S Washington St, Seattle Seattle School of Aikido (206) 525-1955 3422 NE 55th St, Seattle Obukan Kendo Club (503) 443-2281 4130 SW 117th Ave. Suite 246, Beaverton Portland Aikikai (503) 274-2606 1623 NW Marshall, Portland Tea Ceremony Urasenke Foundation Seattle Branch (206) 328-6018 1700 N. Northlake Way #105, Seattle Chado Urasenke Tankokai Seattle Association (206)324-2829 1515 E. Yesler Way #304, Seattle

www.ibukimagazine.com 21

息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Signs of a Resurgence in Japantown

Signs of a Resurgence in Japantown

By Bruce Rutledge & Jessica Sattell The area east of Pioneer Square in downtown Seattle used to be home to a thriving population of Japanese immigrants. At one point before World War II, more than 60% of the hotels in the city were run by Japanese families, says Cassie Chinn, deputy executive director of the Wing Luke Asian Museum. While Chinese laborers were not allowed to bring their spouses over until after World War II, Japanese men in Seattle married picture brides and started families early in the 20th Century.

By the 1930s, today’s International District was more of a Japantown than a Chinatown.

But Executive Order 9066 took care of all that, ripping families from their properties and sending many of them to Minidoka, an internment camp in Idaho. Today’s Japantown is a shadow of its former self, still

Photo: © the Wing Luke Museum 22 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

scarred by the order issued by Franklin Delano Roosevelt 68 years ago and riven through the middle by Interstate 5.

And yet today there are signs of a resurgence. The perseverance of local business owners is starting to pay off. Seattle’s Japantown is staging a comeback.

If you have no idea where Japantown is, don’t worry. You are not alone.

Even denizens of the area argue about where this so-called Nihonmachi begins and ends. “All of our boundaries are blurred,” Chinn says.

For some, Japantown is “a little bit north of Yesler to Lane Street, between 18th Avenue and 12th,” explains Jeffrey Hattori, CEO of Nikkei Concerns. This area is home to Seattle Keiro, Densho, the Japanese Cultural & Community Center and other organizations that serve as

pillars of the Japanese American community. But the area lacks retail.

For the casual traveler, the epicenter of Japantown is to the west of I-5 on the corner of 6th Ave. S and Main Street. Here you’ll find the Panama Hotel & Cafe and its new neighbor, the Cullom Gallery, featuring modern and traditional Japanese prints, the award-winning Maneki sushi restaurant and Momo, fast becoming one of the city’s most interesting boutiques. Around the corner is Kobo at Higo, a variety store and gallery that honors the work of local craftspeople, and Kaname restaurant, a family-friendly gathering spot. This block bubbles with pride and life.

Art walks, events and Wing Luke walking tours have given this neighborhood more vibrancy than it has had in years. Fans of Jamie Ford’s hit novel, Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet, which is partially set

in the Panama, flock here to see where the bittersweet romance between a girl from Japantown and a Chinese American boy began. Jan Johnson, owner of the Panama, reports that more than 150 book clubs have visited the hotel this year. A guest book for visitors who come to the Panama because of the book “is filled with hundreds of names,” says Ford, the novelist. “There’s definitely been a surge of interest” in Japantown, he adds.

Walk down 6th toward Uwajimaya supermarket and you’ll pass other pieces of the hard-to-define Japantown -- Pink Gorilla, Fort St. George, Maekawa Bar and Kinokuniya Bookstore. The vision and perseverance of business owners here is starting to pay off. Japantown is slowly but surely being redefined.

<< This photograph taken by Frank Nowell and Orville Rognon circa 1900 is entitled “Looking up Main Street in the Japanese District, Seattle.” Japantown thrived in those days. There were more than 50 hotels operated by Japanese families around that time.

The Wing Luke Museum 719 South King Street, (206) 623-5124 http://www.wingluke.org Near the heart of old Japantown is this affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution and the only museum in America dedicated to preserving the Asian Pacific American experience. Roam the ever-changing galleries, tour the 1910 historic hotel or take a guided walking tour around the district. Stop by the museum gift shop for a selection of books and other Asian-inspired gifts from local authors and artists.

Tours & Events at Wing Luke Museum: Historic Hotel Tour This 45-minute tour will immerse you in the uniquely American stories of immigrants from the Asian Pacific region. Included in the Museum Experience admission, offered Tuesday-Sunday.

The Bitter and Sweet Tour Based on the book, Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet, this tour highlights locations and landmarks in the book. Offered by reservation only.

Code of Silence, Sunday, October 24, 2:30pm Step back in time and catch a glimpse of the life of a Japanese Kibei (American-born, Japan-educated) who served as a WWII code-breaker for the U.S. military in this one-actor dramatic performance. Free with admission. In Tateuchi Story Theatre at The Wing.

www.ibukimagazine.com 23

息吹 IBUKI_FEATURE ARTICLE_Signs of a Resurgence in Japantown

Uwajimaya : 600 5th Avenue South A Seattle tourist attraction in its own right, Uwajimaya is the oldest and largest Asian grocery and gift chain in the Pacific Northwest with four locations in western Washington and Oregon. Stop by the Seattle flagship for nearly anything, from fish cakes to fine lacquerware. Stop by their deli and sprawling food court for your choice of cuisine representative of East Asia, or head to the seafood section for fresh fare that rivals Pike Place Market.

Exploring Seattle’s Japantown Fuji Sushi Main St

Cullom Panama Gallery Cafe Maneki

Tsukushinbo

Momo Kobo Kaname Jackson St

Just across the hall from Maekawa, sister restaurant and bar Fort St. George serves up hearty Japanese comfort food such as creamy omelets filled with ketchup rice, heaping plates of Japanese style curry and mounds of garlic fried potatoes. It has a full bar and some quite creative cocktails.

Samurai Noodle

7th Ave

601 South King Street, #202

Oasis

Fort St. George Pink Gorilla Maekawa

Maynerd Alley S

Fort St. George:

Ming’s Asian Gallery

US Post Hing Hay Office Park

Maynerd Ave

Stop by this izakaya (Japanese pub) for a cold beer and the longest menu of small plates in town. You’ll find staples such as gyoza, fried rice and noodle bowls, but Maekawa’s specialties such as taro croquettes, kimchi fried squid and beef tongue really set it apart from the rest.

6th Ave

601 South King Street, Suite 206 5h Ave

Maekawa:

South King St

J-Sushi South Weller St

Kinokuniya Bush Garden

Uwajimaya

South Lane St

Daiso Nikkei Horizon South Dearborn St

Ming’s Asian Gallery: 519 6th Avenue South Seattle’s go-to source for fine Japanese antiques since 1966, Ming’s specializes in all kinds of Asian art spanning twelve countries over thousands of years. Located in the original location of Uwajimaya, their showroom is open to the public and houses treasures such as unique knick-knacks, fine furniture, sculpture, bronzes, porcelain, and textiles from Japan and beyond.

Ming’s knowledgeable and dedicated staff takes several buying trips a year, bringing back one-of-a-kind finds. They also offer appraisal and design services and feature an everrotating array of special exhibits.

Pink Gorilla: 601 South King Street, First Floor Pink Gorilla is the physical manifestation of every video gamer’s dream. Chock full of new and used, domestic and Japanese, and imported and retro games, gaming consoles and toys, it’s a spot not to be missed for its fluffy pink décor alone.

24 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

Kinokuniya: 525 South Weller Street Anchoring Uwajimaya’s northeast corner, Kinokuniya Bookstore is jam-packed with Japanese and Chinese books, magazines, movies and music. The real finds here are the store’s well-curated section of English books on Japanese and Asian art and culture, the large section of Asian American literature, and a great selection of Asian fiction in translation. You can also get your kawaii fix with imported stationery and toys featuring Japan’s cute aesthetic.

Nikkei Manor: 601 South King Street, First Floor Nikkei Manor is an assisted living facility run by Nikkei Concerns, a nonprofit organization dedicated to elderly care. Nikkei Concerns has been a pillar of the Japanese American community in Seattle ever since it was founded 35 years ago..

Daiso: 610 5th Ave S. Daiso, Japan’s most famous ¥100 store, is filled to the brim with goodies imported straight from Japan starting at only $1.50. From chopsticks and teacups to stationery and slippers, this authentic Japanese home-goods outlet is a must-see for its wide array of cute, practical and unique finds for everyday life.

Historic Panama Hotel and Cafe:

6650 ½ South Main Street

Built in 1910, the Panama served as home for generations of Japanese immigrants and international travelers. Now a modern bed and breakfast with a charming and beautifully decorated coffee and tea shop in its lobby, it stands as a community meeting place and monument to Nihonmachi. The Panama continues to draw tourists from around the world eager to experience a part of history; the basement houses one of the few remaining sento (traditional Japanese baths) in America, preserved since its closure in 1950 and available for viewing by tour (see page 21 for more).

Momo : 600 South Jackson Street A self-proclaimed “hapa” (Hawaiian for “Eurasian”) shop, Momo is filled with treasures old and new from all corners of the globe and with a distinct nod to Japanese aesthetics. Part clothing boutique and part consignment store, here you’ll find authentic French sailor shirts, Japanese tabi socks, locally made soaps, vintage jewelry and everything in between.

Ask about the Spam collection behind the corner and you won’t be disappointed.

Kaname Izakaya and Shochu Bar: 610 South Jackson Street

Canton Alley S

Wing Luke Museum

Tsukushinbo: 515 South Main Street Nestled on a quiet block on the edge of Japantown is Tsukushinbo, a local favorite for Japanese homestyle cooking. There are no fancy sushi rolls or pretentious dishes here — just the freshest ingredients prepared with lots of soul. Their rotating daily lunch specials are hearty and filling while easy on the wallet. Dinnertime showcases a wide variety of sushi, noodles and more.

Bush Garden: 614 Maynard Avenue S. Bush Garden is a Japantown institution serving homestyle Japanese favorites since 1953. Enjoy the sukiyaki that made this restaurant famous in the spacious dining room or head to the bar for a reasonable happy hour and to belt out your karaoke favorites to the regulars.

Fuji Sushi : 520 South Main Street Arguably one of Seattle’s lesser known sushi gems, Fuji artfully prepares sushi the way it was meant to be enjoyed: fresh, simple and flown in right from Tokyo. For dinner, try the bento special catered to your own taste with dozens of possible combinations.

Maneki : 304 6th Avenue South As the longest consistently run restaurant in Seattle, Maneki has been serving Japanese favorites in a family-friendly atmosphere since 1904.

While you’re waiting for your table, head to the bar and sample from the full food menu to get your appetite going

Kaname Izakaya and Shochu Bar is a warm, cozy izakaya and shochu bar specializing in Japanese favorites.

Their famous happy hour is a great way to try their vast selection of shochu cocktails and appetizers for small prices.Try their made-fromscratch ramen (available daily in limited quantities) with a side of gyoza, fresh sushi, or donburi heaped with meat and vegetables.

Cullom Gallery : 603 South Main Street Recently moved from nearby Pioneer Square, Cullom Gallery specializes in prints from the ukiyo-e masters of the 18th and 19th century, sosaku hanga and shin hanga prints from Japan’s modern age, and contemporary prints by Japanese and non-Japanese artists who draw inspiration from traditional techniques. A welcomed newcomer to Nihonmachi, the gallery also offers print consignment, appraisal and consulting services.

Kobo at Higo : 604 South Jackson Street Kobo (Japanese for “artist’s workplace”) is dedicated to showcasing artists and artisans from both Japan and the Northwest. Occupying the space of the former Higo General Store, it’s a spacious gallery housing beautifully curated contemporary art and craft. Frequent artist meet-andgreets ensure that the doors here are always open to something new. Stop here to admire the current exhibit, or peruse their book and gift section for unique Japantown souvenirs.

www.ibukimagazine.com 25

TRAVEL

© Y.Shimizu/© JNTO

© JNTO

Kumamoto Castle

Yakitori and ramen yatai line the streets of Fukuoka at night.

Kyushu

By Steve Corless

K

yushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, is a great place to visit for its natural beauty, hot springs and my personal favorite Japanese food: ramen.

Most visitors to Kyushu start their journey in Kyushu’s largest city, Fukuoka, a six-hour shinkansen bullet-train ride from Tokyo. Fukuoka is closer to Seoul than to Tokyo. Its proximity to the Asian mainland as a port city and cultural crossroads continues to influence the city’s culture today. Pusan, South Korea, is a quick three-hour ferry ride and a good optional overnight trip from the city. The climate in Fukuoka is mild and, although it is one of the 10 largest cities in the country, the pace here is less hectic than in Tokyo or Osaka..

Fukuoka may be best known for its open-air food stands called yatai.

My favorite yatai are along the Naka River near the Nakasu entertainment district. A perfect end to a day of sightseeing, the yatai here are open until late. Try the white pork broth tonkotsu ramen or grilled chicken-skewer yakitori, two of Japan’s most delicious casual food items, best enjoyed with a cold Asahi Dry on a hot summer night, or with imo (potato) shochu from the southern Kyushu prefecture of Kagoshima in the winter.

3 Night Hotel Packages

Tokyo - from $439.00 Kyoto - from $489.00 * including airport transfers and Half-day Sightseeing

© JNTO

©Japan Convention Services, Inc./© JNTO

Hotel Takegawara, Beppu

The milky white baths of a Beppu hot spring.

Kyushu is a highly active volcanic region, which means the hot springs are plentiful and are a part of life for those who live here. The most famous regions in Kyushu for hot-springs resorts are Beppu and, more recently, Yufuin, a scenic, several-hour train ride from Fukuoka. Yufuin is a resort town nestled in a valley surrounded by deep green moun-

JTB USA your travel expert to Japan and Asia

5 Night Air and Hotel Package

from $1,349.00 + tax (Seattle/Tokyo)

©JNTO

Land Packages | Group Tours | Optional Tours | Japan Rail Pass

206-467-8877 www.jtbusa.com 1-866-467-8877(Toll-Free) E-mail: sea@jtbusa.com 26 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

JTB USA Seattle Office 1511 Third Avenue Seattle WA 98101

JTB Seattle offi ce has moved!

See our webs ite for special promoti ons!

©Kagoshima Prefectural Tourist Federation/©JNTO

© Y.Shimizu/© JNTO

Active volcano Sakurajima and neighboring Kagoshima city

Ibusuki’s hot sand baths

tains. The day spas, museums and shopping mean Yufuin can be an enjoyable day trip, but consider staying overnight in one of the town’s many traditional ryokan inns for a taste of old Japan.

The city of Kumamoto, south of Fukuoka, is best known for its castle.

It is one of the largest in the country, and although the original was destroyed in the 19th Century (unlike European castles, Japanese castles were wood structures), the reconstructed castle is quite authentic and includes an impressive collection of historic artifacts. Visitors can climb to the top of the castle for a panoramic view of the city. A new addition to the castle is the Honmaru Goten Palace building, created for the 400th anniversary of the castle. It is built with traditional materials and building methods, unlike the main castle building, which was rebuilt with reinforced concrete rather than wood timbers.

South of Kumamoto is the city of Kagoshima. The city is near an active volcano, Sakurajima. By “active,” I mean that it is always erupting; smoke and ash are constantly rising from the top of this small mountain across the bay from the city. The spring of 2010 saw some of the most spectacular eruptions in years, with molten lava shooting into the sky.

Near Kagoshima is the onsen hot springs and seaside resort town of Ibusuki, which is famous for its sunamushi onsen hot sand baths. Visitors don a yukata cotton robe and are buried in hot sulfuric sand. Fifteen minutes is all it takes for this once-in-a-lifetime sweaty, invigorating and pore-cleansing experience.

Steve Corless is an independent travel consultant based in Seattle. Steve spent 15 years in Japan working in sales and marketing and as a US foreign service officer in Tokyo and Osaka. He lives in Lynnwood with his wife and daughter.

Ask Steve about Japan Travel!

Do you have questions about traveling in Japan? Please send your questions to info@ibukimagazine.com. He will answer your questions in future columns.

www.ibukimagazine.com 27

Lifestyle

MOVIES FASHION PLACES & MORE

By Julian Waters

Music Dir En Grey — Japan’s Most Exciting Rock Band — Heads to the Northwest After releasing its seventh album, the provocative and exhilarating band Dir En Grey will hit North America along with Finnish co-headliner Apocalyptica on August 23rd in Toronto before weaving its way across the US. Having taken control of the Japanese rock scene, Dir En Grey is collecting fans globally on a scale rarely seen by Japanese bands.

The band’s fan base reaches from Japan like tentacles, touching almost every continent. To give you an indication of the hype and frenzy generated by Dir En Grey, when touring in Berlin and Paris, its concerts sold out in eight days with no promotion, strictly by word of mouth. Also in 2009 it headlined two Nippon Budokan concerts (the famed venue where the Beatles made their Japanese debut), entitled, “UROBOROS — with the proof in the name of living… —,” which sold out in 15 minutes.

Dir En Grey has a reputation for leaving it all on stage, which is why the band has been invited to play at top rock events around the world such as the European Rock Am Ring

festival alongside such outstanding artists as guitar), Toshiya (guitar) and Shinya (drums) provide excitement on par with a Stephen Motley Crue, Iron Maiden and Green Day. Dir En Grey does not put on a run-of-the- King movie. . mill generic rock concert. Be warned: If you have heart problems or easily find yourself out of breath, get to the concert early and find a guard rail to hang on to. If there ever has been a band that rocks concert goers beyond utter exhaustion and climax, Dir En Grey is the one.

Dir En Grey is anchored by Lead singer Kyo, who has been with the band since the beginning. He has an incredibly strong voice and can go from a smooth melody to shouting with the devil in a split second. But what whips fans into a frenzy is his wicked performance on stage. Kyo has been known to start the show in a calm subdued manner and slowly transgress into a trance before bursting into an intense performance that many fans describe as enjoyably shocking.

Without giving away too much, I will just say that Kyo as well as Kaoru (guitar), Die (bass

Book FOOD SAKE TOKYO FOOD SAKE TOKYO by Yukari Sakamoto is a crash course on Japanese food combined with a useful Tokyo travel guide filled with places to eat and shop. Author Sakamoto was a trained chef at the French Culinary Institute and draws on her years of experience working in the depachika (epicurean food hall) at Takashimaya department store in Tokyo. This handy guide is divided into five chapters, each devoted to specific categories. Chapter 1 explains dining etiquette, Japanese food terminology and the types of dining experiences you are likely to encounter. The food chapter comes next. It explores the most common Japanese foods, including produce, soy, meats, rice and noodles, and sweets.

The beverage chapter quickly introduces more than 20 Japanese teas and related terms that

28 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

you are likely to run across. Saké, shochu and Japanese wine are explained here, and several breweries and wineries are listed in the guide.

Chapter 4 deals with places to eat and shop.

Starting with Tsukiji, the largest fish market in the world, Sakamoto helps travelers navigate Tokyo’s countless neighborhoods. The final chapter is aimed at Tokyo travelers who only have a few days in the city. Sakamoto lays out one- and two-day tour suggestions that allow a traveler to experience many of Tokyo’s mustsee destinations in a short amount of time. In Seattle, you can find the book at Elliott Bay Book Company, University Bookstore, Third Place Books as well as Barnes & Noble and Borders locations.

More info can be found at http://www.littlebookroom.com/

© Little Book Room

Gadget Kokonatchi What could be cuter than a glowing robotic chick?

Yukai Engineering in Japan is hoping consumers will not be able to resist its latest creation, Kokonatchi (ココナッチ), a robotic chick. Kokonatchi sits near your computer and notifies you of incoming tweets by changing color according to the context, wiggling and even vibrating or shivering when scared. Users can prerecord messages that can be sent back through the twitter stream by interacting with their Kokonatchi. The small desktop notification robot is being designed by the clever students at Waseda University and the University of Tokyo. Yukai Engineering expects to release Kokonatchi in Japan this fall. The estimated price is around 4,000 yen.

Info: http://www.ux-xu.com/

© YUKAI Engineering

Movie 20th Century Boys 3: Redemption The final chapter of this voluminous trilogy was released this summer in North America. It is now 2017, and after the spread of the deadly virus, a wall was built around Tokyo, and people’s lives have been restricted. As World President, Friend tells everyone that aliens will destroy mankind and only those who believe in him will be saved. Kanna and Yoshitune both lead rebel groups in an attempt to fight Friend. Maruo finally finds Kenji’s sister, and Otcho makes his way back to Tokyo, reuniting with Kanna. As a familiar song plays from the radio, is it proof that Kenji is still alive? At the same time, outside the wall, one man is determined to go see Kanna. Everyone is ready to make their final stand and all mysteries are soon revealed. Before watching the third chapter, I recommend that you go through the last two chapters again to remind yourself of all the complex human relationships in these films.

Info: http://www.20thboysfilms.com © 1999, 2006, Naoki Urasawa, Studio Nuts/Shogakukan © 2009 “20th Century Boys” Film Partners

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Local News and Events EVENTS Sake Event with Female Brew Master from Japan

Nikkei Concerns 35th Anniversary Dinner and Auction

Meet Hiroko Yokosawa of Tsukinowa Brewery

Connecting generations of the Nikkei community

When: September 20th - 24th Where: Village Sushi / Sake Nomi / Uwajimaya Fee: Free *Village Sushi charges for food and sake

When: October 30, 2010. Starting at 5:30pm Where: Westin Hotel Grand Ballroom, 1900 Fifth Avenue, Seattle Fee: Early Bird Registration $135 by September 15th

The eldest of three sisters, Hiroko Yokosawa is the toji, or brew master, of the venerable Tsukinowa Brewery, established in 1886 in Iwate Prefecture. There are very few female toji in Japan, and none more prestigious than Ms. Yokosawa. Her sake is clean and crisp with a smooth, sweet balance. She will participate in several local sake events in late September. Meet her and try her sake at the following venues: Sept. 20 5-9pm: Village Sushi in U-District~ Dinner with Hiroko Yokosawa *Sake flights and food pairings are available from 20th to 24th at Village Sushi.

Hiroko will attend dinner on the 20th.

Sept. 21 6-8pm: Sake Nomi ~Tasting full line-up Sept. 22 4-7pm: Uwajimaya Bellevue ~Meet the brewer, bottle signings Sept. 23 4-6pm: Uwajimaya Seattle ~Meet the brewer, bottle signings

Aki-Con 2010 Anime and manga festival When: November 5th - 7th Where: Hilton Bellevue Hotel, 300 112th Ave SE, Bellevue Pre-registration online prices: 3 day Pass-$35, Friday/Sunday Only-$10, Saturday Only-$15 (Pre-Registration prices good through 10/31/10) Reg. at the door $45 for the weekend Friday $15, Saturday $25 This annual anime/manga-con in Bellevue started in 2008 and the attendance and number of attractions has grown every year. This year they will host numerous guests including Rai Kamishiro, Robert Axelrod and Johnny Yong Bosch and give away over $2,000 in cash prizes. Info: http://www.akicon.org/ 30 息吹 ibuki • SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2010

In 1975, seven second-generation Japanese Americans formed Nikkei Concerns (formerly Issei Concerns) to provide senior services for their first-generation parents and family members. Nikkei Concerns has evolved into a core organization of the Japanese American community in Seattle that operates a nursing home (Seattle Keiro) an assisted-living facility (Nikkei Manor), an adult activities program (Kokoro Kai) and a community adult education program (Nikkei Horizons). The organization’s 35th anniversary celebration is planned around the theme of “Connecting Generations.” Jeffrey Hattori, CEO of Nikkei Concerns, says the gala will symbolize the emergence of a new generation of leaders, the third-generation Japanese Americans of Seattle, and will launch a new and exciting vision for the organization. Many Japanese American celebrities, including speed-skating sensation Apolo Anton Ohno, former US Secretary of Transportation and long-time Democratic Party politician Norm Mineta, former Governor and current Commerce Secretary Gary Locke and his wife Mona Locke, and co-anchor of KING 5 News, Lori Matsukawa, will be on hand as “ambassadors” for Nikkei Concerns. The emcee for the evening will be Fred Katayama, news anchor for Reuters New York.

“Jeopardy”star Kelly Miyahara will also be a guest speaker.

Info: http://www.nikkeiconcerns.org

Seattle is Global Conference Academic workshop celebrating cultural diversity When: October 23-24, 2010 Where: Seattle University Fee: Free The conference will feature a variety of topics such as “International Marriage,” “ Manga and American Society,” and “Global Human Resources.” There will be Japanese fabric craft classes as well. For more information, contact Professor Motofusa Murayama (murayamm@ seattleu.edu)

Memorial Service for Otokichi Music and dance performance by Kai Kyoko When: 12pm October 24, 2010 Where: Seattle Koyasan Buddhist Temple Otokichi is the first Japanese to come to the Pacific Northwest. He arrived via a shipwreck in 1834 after drifting in the Pacific Ocean for 14 months. For this memorial service, Kai Kyoko, a former SDK street dancer, will perform.

NABE

NEWLY OPENED Sake in Seattle Sake in Seattle will host exciting sake tasting events for large corporations and small private celebrations, educating guests about the culture, significance and standards of quality premium sake. They will have a commencement event on October 21. Detailed information about the event will be available soon on their website www.sakeinseattle.com.

Sake in Seattle | www.sakeinseattle.com Contact: info@sakeinseattle.com or 425-780-SAKE

Umami Kushi Catering Service

Bring Japanese-style gourmet grilled food to your next party Chef Harold Fields has established a kushiyaki catering service called Umami Kushi. He draws on years of experience working for Gonpachi (権八) restaurant in Tokyo’s famed Ginza district serving sushi and kushiyaki. He uses his own yatai (street cart) style cooking equipment and uses high-end white charcoal to craft his kushiyaki. “It makes a big difference what quality of charcoal you use,” Fields says. “I use highend charcoal from California, which is the closest to Japanese bincho-tan (備長炭).” Depending on customers’ requests, he will grill a variety of fresh meat and vegetables including king salmon, albacore tuna, oysters, clams, Kobe beef, prime rib, asparagus, and traditional Japanese yakitori-style skewered chicken.

“You will be amazed how juicy and tasty the meat and vegetables can be when cooked at the right temperature with my special grilling methods,” says Fields. He uses his homemade tare (cooking souce), yuzu pepper (Japanese citrus pepper) and sea salt for flavoring.

Prices range from $25-$100 per person depending on the type of meat a customer desires. If you would like to enjoy a unique and extraordinary dining experience at your next gathering, you owe it to yourself to give Umami Kushi a try.

Umami Kushi www.Umamikushi.com Tel: (206) 265- 1923 / yoha@msn.com

Genki Sushi — Capitol Hill Genki Sushi is a kaiten, or conveyor-belt, sushi chain from Japan. “I want people to come try our fresh sushi. I am sure they will return to us,” says Genki Sushi manager Shinichi. Good sushi at reasonable prices is always welcome news around Puget Sound.

Located at 1620 Broadway Seattle Tel: (206) 2574418

Japonessa Sushi Cocina An exciting new sushi restaurant has replaced Union restaurant downtown. Chef Billy Beach, who opened Umi Sake House and Kushibar, is highly skilled and known for bringing Japanese-fused cuisine to the Seattle area. This time, his concept is “sushi with a latin twist.” The restaurant serves different kinds of Japanese tapas and sushi rolls with a hint of Spain.

Located at 1400 1st Ave Seattle Tel: (206) 971-7979

TOFU HARAJUKU OISHII SHOCHU YAKITORI UMAMI KUSHIYAKI TO

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