My North - 2017 No. 02 | Oct-Dec

My North

Air Iceland Connect Magazine Nº 02 · October-December 2017 · Your free copy

Adventures across the Arctic

Eyjafjordur, Iceland, 65° N, +14° C, 5/7, 17:15

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Contents 06 07 08 10 12 14 16 20 22 24 26 28 30 32

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From our Managing Director Flying in style Happenings this autumn Bird’s-eye view Groovy Geiri Smart Twisting tongues Hiking Hengifoss Little big town Not just for boys Family fun Airwaves goes to Akureyri Adventurous guide Instagrammers inspired Nuuk and nature Discover Northern Ireland News from Air Iceland Connect On-board experience Route network Our fabulous fleet Safe travels

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PUBLISHED BY AIR ICELAND CONNECT Editor: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir (editor@airicelandconnect.is) Cover image: Benjamin Hardman Copy editor: Sarah Dearne (English) Translation Icelandic ↔ English: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir Contributing writers: Russell Alford, Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir, Sarah Dearne, Alex Elliott, Bjorn Halldorsson, Patrick Hanlon, Benjamin Hardman, Svava Jonsdottir, Edda Kentish, Larissa Kyzer Contributing photographers: Russell Alford, Gunnar Freyr Gunnarsson, Patrick Hanlon, Benjamin Hardman, Loubos Houska, Larissa Kyzer, Alexander Matukhno, Sigmar Morkore, Mads Pihl, Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson, Arni Saeberg, Marino Thorlacius, Jez Tozer Advertising: www.airicelandconnect.com/ mynorth Design: Bertrand Kirschenhofer / Icelandic Ad Agency Printing: Prenttækni

The new and improved Saga Lounge at Keflavik International Airport is a place where you can put your feet up, dine in style and enjoy the picturesque views while you wait for your flight.

We look forward to welcoming you.

The Icelandair Saga Lounge is open to Economy Comfort and Saga Class passengers, Saga Silver and Saga Gold members, and certain credit card holders.

ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS ICE 85062 07/17

A HOME AWAY FROM HOME

GREETING

From our Managing Director

Onwards and upwards Dear traveller, Welcome aboard. Welcome to “Our North”.

Autumn has arrived, the most glorious of seasons, when the heather in the Highlands changes colour from green to bright yellow, orange and red. The view of Akureyri in the North – dubbed “Iceland’s green town” for its abundance of trees – is nothing short of breathtaking at this time of year. If you would like to immerse yourself in the magic of fall, head to Hallormsstada­ skogur – Iceland’s largest forest – just outside Egilsstadir in the East. For how long we get to enjoy the autumn colours depends on the weather; harsh winds quickly tear off the foliage and frost and snow could be near. Winter is coming but with it also come starry nights, northern lights and sparkling snow. In the north, every season is an adventure.

Árni Gunnarsson, Air Iceland Connect Managing Director

With My North, we hope to inspire you. In this issue, we feature East Iceland, which has a wealth of natural treasures and cultural curiosities for you to explore. On page 16, we cover a hike to Hengifoss, Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall, and on page 19, some of the attractions in Egilsstadir, the region’s largest town. On page 32, photographer Benjamin Hardman documents his travels to Nuuk, Greenland, where he sailed among gigantic icebergs and whales. On page 34, Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford take you on a journey to Northern Ireland’s stunning Causeway Coast. For a different type of adventure, check out the culinary treats dished up by restaurant Geiri Smart in Reykjavik on page 12, and sonic sensations waiting to be discovered at Iceland Airwaves, presented on page 26. Browse through this magazine for even more curious content. Take it with you to read later if you like.

But we want to hear about your adventures, too. In the seat pocket in front of you is a travel journal called “Shared Stories” where everyone who sits in this seat is welcome to make notes about his or her trip. People seem to love the initiative; some of the journals are filling up already. We also en­courage you to share your travel stories online; tag your Instagram photos and Facebook posts with #mynorthadventure. We’re excited to hear about your experiences.

We hope you’re enjoying your flight. Adventure awaits at your next destination.

Goda ferd! Happy travels!

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NEWS

Air Iceland Connect

Save time with online check-in Air Iceland Connect now offers online check-in from Reykjavik Airport. Go to www.airicelandconnect.com/check-in then enter your last name and booking confirmation number.

You can choose to have your boarding pass sent as an SMS or email. You can also download and print it, or add it to your Apple Wallet.

SMS

Photo: Marino Thorlacius

Style in the sky New uniforms for the employees of Air Iceland Connect will be taken into use on 10 October. They were designed by Iceland’s leading lady of fashion, Steinunn Sigurdardottir. The uniforms for men and women are midnight blue, with a colourful scarf for the ladies that was inspired by Icelandic flora. When designing the uniforms, Steinunn also sought inspiration from older uniforms of flight attendants. The hat, for example, has a distinctly different look than the hat worn with the previous uniform. It was modelled on a hat from 1969.

The new shirt also has references to the shirt worn by the airline’s flight attendants at that time and the old costume’s bright red colour appears in the new scarf. The purpose with this nostalgic look was to connect the uniform better with the airline’s history, Steinunn says.

EMAIL

PRINT

WALLET

You can check-in online at any time of day, up to 45 minutes before departure for domestic flights and 90 minutes before departure for international flights.

(Currently, flights through Keflavik International Airport are not available for online check-in.)

Note that Air Iceland Connect may need to close the online check-in for certain flights if disturbances due to weather conditions are imminent.

→ www.airicelandconnect.com

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EVENTS

Out a nd about

In Iceland and beyond

Looking for things to do as the weather starts to chill?

Check out our top picks for the coming months.

TEXT: Sarah Dearne

PHOTO: Jez Tozer

Belfast, Northern Ireland 6–28 October

PHOTO: Sigmar Morkore

PHOTO: Loubos Houska

Eidi, Faroe Islands 12–15 October

Aberdeenshire, Scotland 26 October – 11 November

BELFAST INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL

HEYSTFAGNADUR (AUTUMN FESTIVAL)

As the weather cools and the drizzle sets in, Belfast lights up with three weeks of culture and colour. The BIAF brings world-class international performers and creators to the city while showcasing Northern Ireland’s very own best and brightest. This year’s highlights include the Mariinsky Orchestra, which will be performing an all-Russian programme; the brilliant Donny McCaslin Group, who were David Bowie’s last band, collaborating with him on Black Star; and Celui Qui Tombe (He Who Falls), a fusion of dance and acrobatics that plays out on a spinning, tilting stage.

And if you see nothing else, don’t miss the iconic Weeping Window installation, a cascade of ceramic red poppies that will move even the stubbornest contemporary art sceptic. →→ www.belfastinternationalartsfestival.com

Although the Faroes are known as a land of fishermen, it’s the scruffy native sheep that has their heart.

A proud silver ram decorates their coat of arms, and the country’s name even derives from the Norse word for sheep – Foroyar, the Sheep Islands. This rich shepherding culture is celebrated at Heystfagnadur (Autumn Festival) in the village of Eidi. Harvest-themed events include a sheep market, butchering and sausage-making, followed by a downhome country ball with live music and carousing into the night. And if you’re not too stuffed with sausages to move, hike up to the nearby Eidiskollur cliff, which has astonishing views down to Risin og Kellingin (“the Giant and the Hag”), 70 m sea stacks with a curious folkloric past. →→ www.visitfaroeislands.com/ event/heystfagnadur

Sound is all about new music, showcasing an eclectic mix of contemporary classical and jazz compositions in addition to hands-on workshops and cross-media exhibitions. Its magic lies in its openness to experimentation, setting up a sonic sandbox where composers can play and collaborate, uninhibited by stuffy conventions. This year’s programme sets out in pursuit of a “northern sound”, with panels and performances exploring how the region’s landscape and languages seep into compositions, intentionally or otherwise. There’s also a special focus on the bassoon, the Barry White of the woodwind family. You’ll find intriguing events in concert halls, bars, and even lighthouses all over Aberdeenshire. →→ www.sound-scotland.co.uk

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SOUND MUSIC FESTIVAL

PHOTO: Alexander Matukhno

the shoes of well-behaved children.

You can meet the Yule Lads and see how they prepare for Christmas at their home in Dimmuborgir, an enchanting lava field close to Lake Myvatn, a bit over an hour’s drive from Akureyri. →→ www.jolasveinarnir.net

Reykjavik & Akureyri, Iceland 1–5 November in Reykjavik, 2–3 November in Akureyri ICELAND AIRWAVES Now in its 18th year, Iceland Airwaves can no longer be contained by Reykjavik and is stretching its limbs up to Akureyri.

The programme is set up so you can get passes for the four-day festival in Reykjavik, two days in Akureyri, or a combination of both. Make up your mind quickly though, as tickets sell out fast. But if you miss out, all is not lost – there are plenty of off-venue events to keep the party going. Flip over to page 26 to read more about Airwaves 2017. →→ www.icelandairwaves.com

PHOTO: Visit Mývatn

Myvatn, Iceland 1–24 December Christmas in Iceland is a little bit different. Instead of the rosy-cheeked Coca-Cola Santa, we have 13 mischievous characters known as jolasveinarnir, the Yule Lads. Historically the Yule Lads were more interested in thieving than giving, and their names reflect their modus operandi: Pot Scraper, for example, steals leftovers, while Sausage Swiper makes off with strings of smoked wurst. In the 20th century they turned over a new leaf and began placing gifts in

YULE LADS AT DIMMUBORGIR

PHOTO: Mads Pihl – Visit Greenland

Ilulissat, Greenland March – April Dog sledding is an exhilarating way to see the sights of the Arctic while bringing centuries of culture along for the ride. More than that, it remains a way of life in Greenland, holding its own against the rise of the snowmobile. Indeed, Greenland dogs have several advantages over their engine-run counterparts: they know the way, never run out of petrol, and they’re a heck of a lot cuter. Dog sledding season is from March to April, and one of the best places to go is Ilulissat, pop. 4,500 people, 3,500 dogs. Air Iceland Connect runs tours to Ilulissat, where you’ll also see (and hear) the enormous icebergs of the Ilulissat Icefjord and and have the opportunity to explore the colourful town. From there, you can take excursions to Eqi glacier (where you can stay overnight in a hut) and visit the nearby settlements of Oqaatsut/ Rodebay and Ilimanaq. →→ www.airicelandconnect.com/ tours/greenland DOG SLEDDING

DID YOU KNOW ...

The Arctic tern covers a distance of 35,000 km (21,748 mi) twice yearly between its winter habitat in Antarctica and its breeding territory in Iceland?

The maximum range of the Bombardier Q400 is 2,841 km.

Facts and figures Air Iceland Connect destinations at a glance

FAROE ISLANDS Capital: Torshavn (62°N) Population: 50,000 Size: 1,399 km2 (540 sq mi) Status: Autonomous constituent country within the Kingdom of Denmark Language: Faroese and Danish.

English is also widely spoken.

GREENLAND Capital: Nuuk (64°N) Population: 56,000 Size: 2,166,086 km2 (836,330 sq mi) Status: Autonomous constituent country within the Kingdom of Denmark Language: Greenlandic. Danish and English are taught in school, though levels of fluency vary.

ICELAND Capital: Reykjavik (64°N) Population: 334,000 Size: 102,775 km2 (39,682 sq mi) Status: Independent republic Language: Icelandic.

English is also widely spoken.

NORTHERN IRELAND Capital: Belfast (55°N) Population: 1,870,000 Size: 14,130 km2 (5,460 sq mi) Status: Country and a constituent unit of the United Kingdom Language: English. Irish and Ulster-Scots are also spoken in some areas.

SCOTLAND Capital: Edinburgh (56°N) Population: 5,730,000 Size: 77,933 km2 (30,090 sq mi) Status: Country and a constituent unit of the United Kingdom Language: English. Scots and Scottish Gaelic are also spoken in some areas.

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TRAVEL

Geopark

L u na r la ndscapes

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson

Faces glued to the flybus windows, “wow!” is something many a first-time visitor to Iceland utters in awe of Reykjanes. The landscapes of Reykjanesskagi peninsula – where Keflavik International Airport is located – is characterised by lava fields, craters, caves, bubbling mud pools and seething hot springs. This is where the North Atlantic ridge rises from the sea. In 2015, Reykjanes was accepted into the UNESCO

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Global Geopark network for its unique geosites.

Afstapahraun lava field stretches 10 km (6.2 mi) from Trolladyngja volcano, from which it erupted over 1,000 years ago, to the peninsula’s northern shore. A walk around the colourful Trolladyngja area and the lava field’s many rock formations – including what appears to be a stonified Viking ship – is an otherworldly experience.

Lava fields in Reykjanes, Iceland, 63° N, +15° C, 10/8, 11:59

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CULTURE

Food

For the love of local At Canopy by Hilton Reykjavík City Centre, Geiri Smart Restaurant serves local fun and funky flavours.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Geiri Smart Restaurant

Tiny, ruby red dices of raw meat on a spread of skyr, garnished with wild berries and wood garlic. The beef tartar melts in my mouth, harmonising with the chilled Pinot Noir rosé. In the open kitchen, chefs are preparing the next course: fried fillet of cod with potato purée, pickled onions, cauliflower gratin and glaze of Jarl cheese. I’m in for a treat. I take in the surroundings, the black-and-white tiled floor, blue velvet chairs and mustard velvet drapes – very retro, yet modern at the same time.

Located on Hverfisgata in 101 Reykjavik, Geiri Smart is the hotel restaurant of Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik City Centre. “It’s a Canopy prototype,” says Alba E. H. Hough, the hotel’s lead food and drink enthusiast. “And if I may say so myself – we nailed it!”

The Canopy concept is designed for the modern traveller. Each hotel is inspired by its surrounding environment. The design is characterised by open spaces, creativity and warmth.

Guests can expect special treats, such as locally made delicacies. The

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hotel’s staff is not only friendly, but offered street food there this sumalso knowledgeable about local hap- mer,” says Alba. The hotel collaborated with some street artists from penings. the neighbour­hood on remaking their artwork inside the hotel, including the glitter drop waterfall by Theresa Himmer, which wowed many a pedestrian. “These things matter,” stresses Alba.

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People are curious about the name of the restaurant. It comes from the song “Sirkus Geira Smart” by legendary Icelandic ’70s band Spilverk thjodanna. “This was all done in agreement with them and they have small-scale gigs here from time to time,” says Alba. References to the song, band and the decade can be found throughout the restaurant, from the menu to the decor. Hjartagardurinn, a popular hangout for graffiti and skater kids, which used to be right outside the hotel, also features in the design. “The square is still there, tastefully redone – we

In the bistro, tourists can try an Icelandic taster menu, including hardfiskur (dried fish) and hangikjot (smoked lamb). The main restaurant offers brunches, lunches and dinners – including a two-course theatre menu for those with tickets to the National Theatre across the street.

Uniquely, the dishes are paired with wines from cold-climate regions only; wine pairing is one of Alba’s passions.

The bar has a daily happy hour, currently celebrating “Pink October” with pink cocktails and rosé. “The Canopy concept is about reaching locals as much as tourists,” says Alba.

Hence the attention to detail foreigners may find curious but locals love.

“Travellers want the local experience.”

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01 Beef tartar with skyr, wild berries and wood garlic.

02 The interior is very retro, yet modern at the same time.

03 Ambition is the name of the game.

04 Celebrating “Pink October”.

05 The restaurant’s design was inspired by legendary ’70s band Spilverk thjodanna.

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INFORMATION

Language

The enigma of Icelandic

When travelling to Iceland, the first thing many guests come across is what looks like a string of incomprehensible gibberish masquerading as words. Yet some may look vaguely familiar when you break through the accents, umlauts and consonant clusters. So, do Icelandic and English have anything in common?

TEXT: Edda Kentish

Island nations are often fiercely proud of their language.

And perhaps rightly so – centuries of curiosity compelled our ancestors to explore the wider world and gave birth to a culture that has fascinated our British neighbours since at least Victorian times, and maybe even longer. But isle relations begun much sooner. It has been specula­ ted that the Hebrides, Orkneys and Shetland Islands all received their share of Icelandic expats (on top of their Norse ones), and Old and Middle English were furthermore influenced by an Old Norse influx. Both Icelandic and English are Germanic languages, too: Icelandic is a North Germanic language whereas English belongs to the West Germanic group. Both stem from an IndoEuropean linguistic ancestor. We’re getting super technical here, but we have a point, because English and Icelandic share more than meets the eye at first. Here are a few handy words that share a common origin. May they do you good on your adventures.

ENGLISH

House Husband Wife Three Mouse Brother Sister Flight Father Mother Wing Thief That

ICELANDIC

Hús Húsbóndi* Víf** Þrír*** Mús Bróðir Systir Flug Faðir Móðir Vængur Þjófur Það

PRONUNCIATION GUIDE

Þ The Icelandic letter Þ (thorn) is pronounced like the th in “three”.

Ð Æ Ö Á É Í/Ý Ú The letter Ð (eth) is pronounced like the th in “this”.

Æ is pronounced like the pronoun “I”.

Ö doesn’t really have a counterpart in English, but is similar to the hesitant sound “eh”.

Á is like the ou in “mouse”.

airicelandconnect

*now meaning master **archaic; now eiginkona ***pronounced “thrier”

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@airiceland @airicelandconnect editor@airicelandconnect.is

É is pronounced like “yeah”.

Í/Ý is like e in “east”.

Ú is similar to the ou in “you”, but more rounded.

→ Have you come across funny, frightening or fascinating Icelandic words on your trav­ els? Send us pictures or drop us a line! You can also shoot over any and every question you might have about travelling in the north. #mynorthadventure

See retailer list at www.Greatgreenland.com 15

Hengifoss, Iceland, 63° N, +15° C, 10/8, 11:59

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Second ta llest, not second best

TRAVEL

East Iceland

Hengifoss waterfall will lure you to East Iceland, but you’ll find plenty of reasons to stay.

TEXT: Larissa Kyzer PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson (this spread)

tain. The broad valley down below is bisected by the churning, silty grey tail of the Lagarfljot river, and the treetops of Hallormsstadaskogur forest – the largest in Iceland – are visible on its eastern bank. Walking along the western side of the valley, I stopped to admire horses and sheep as they grazed in roadside fields, as well as a large, circular stone pen used for sorting these animals durIt’s a gorgeous region, so there was ing the annual roundup. Shortly after, plenty to see on the way. First there’s I passed by Tofufoss, a bewitching, Nice day for a walk Trollkonustigur (“Giantess’s Path”), a tri-part waterfall fed by the Bessa­ Fljotsdalshreppur, one of Iceland’s section of which is just above Skridu­ stadaa river, which originates high least populous municipalities, is char- klaustur. This blunt stair-stepped rock up on a mountain plateau and then acterised by a quiet, yet unassuming formation, or dyke, creates diagonal plummets in successive cascades sort of gravitas that’s belied by its bands that run for 41 kilometres along into a gorge framed by columnar frequently stunning topographical the side of Valthjofsstadarfjall moun- basalt. It’s telling of the scope and

As something of a waterfall enthusiast, I’ve taken many a detour when travelling around the country just to see this or that foss. Iceland is replete with waterfalls, each with its own individual character and ambiance.

In Fljotsdalur valley, East Iceland, I discovered the stunningly variegated column of Hengifoss – which at 128 metres (420 feet) is the country’s second tallest waterfall – and many more natural wonders on the way.

features. In April, I was a translatorin-residence at Skriduklaustur, a magnificent turf-roofed manor that was once home to one of Iceland’s most celebrated authors, Gunnar Gunnarsson. And so, one morning, when I had no particular agenda and the weather was bright and mild, I decided to walk the 8 kilometres (5 miles) to Hengifoss.

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TRAVEL

East Iceland

01 View of Fljotsdalur.

Lagarfljot river is on the left.

PHOTO: Gunnar Freyr Gunnarsson.

02 Litlanesfoss.

PHOTO: Larissa Kyzer.

03 Skriduklaustur.

PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson.

04 Exhibition at Obyggdasetur.

PHOTO: Larissa Kyzer.

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Luckily, although the climb to Hengi­ foss sometimes left this hiker out of breath, the path is wonderfully maintained and dotted with wooden benches where you can rest and take in the magnificent valley vista.

Breath-taking ascent Halfway up the trail, “breath-taking” Although really any view of Hengi- took on a whole new meaning for foss is impressive, the aspect of this me when I reached Litlanesfoss, a waterfall truly transforms depending smaller, but some say more majestic on your vantage point. From 2.5 kilo- waterfall, flanked by curving pillars of metres (1.5 miles) below in the parking columnar basalt like a sort of petrilot, it’s possible to make out the iconic fied pipe organ. red clay basaltic strata that stripe the proscenium cliff walls on either side of Pouring buckets it, but much harder to get a real sense of its magnitude. And so, although the Continuing along the trail, I crossed ascent is fairly steep for much of the creeks (once by bridge, other times way, it’s worth making the effort to by hopscotching over river stones) reach the base of the falls – weather and scrabbled over boulders, someand hiking ability allowing. times losing sight of Hengifoss altonumber of natural wonders in this area, I think, that Tofufoss is nearly always omitted from must-see lists in local tour guides.

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gether as I wended my way up the mountain path and alongside a sheer gorge. Finally, the trail entered a wide cul-de-sac of a valley, the cliff walls striated with ancient layers of umber and red clay and punctuated by yet more trickling waterfalls. The star of the show, however, was clearly Hengi­foss, whose precipitous cascade poured in giant bucketfuls into the riverbed at its base.

How close you can get to the plunge pool depends entirely on how much rain the area has gotten in recent days, but I was lucky enough to be visiting during a dry spell. So, I settled myself close enough to feel the cool spray on my face, and just sat, closed my eyes, and listened to the water tumbling, burbling, and echoing all around me.

TRAVEL

East Iceland

Cake and culture at the edge of the Highlands East Iceland has a completely different atmosphere and landscape from the rest of the country. Here, rolling hills, verdant farmland, and dense forests take the place of sprawling lava fields and moon-surface vistas.

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Egilsstadir Hengifoss Reykjavik

Some of the region’s most fascinating attractions are located close to Hengi­foss. Take Obyggdasetur – the Wilderness Centre of Iceland, which is a combination of tour provider, guesthouse, restaurant, and museum, open daily from 15 May to 31 September, and by arrangement in the winter. Housed in a former 19th century farm, each of the Centre’s buildings have been refurbished with period-appropriate decor but also retrofitted with 21st century comforts (you know, like electricity and running water). Highlights include a traditional badstofa – a combination living and sleeping room where household members would gather in the evening – now a dormitory for overnight guests, and a 1940s-era farmhouse with private bedrooms and a family-style open kitchen. The Centre’s location deep within the

Keflavik

Getting there: Air Iceland Connect offers regular daily flights from Reykjavik to Egilsstadir. From there, it’s a 35-kilometre (22-mile) drive to Hengifoss. Cars can be rented at Egilsstadir Airport.

DID YOU KNOW ...

It would require 14,200 1 litre (1.8 pint) milk cartons to fill the cargo hold of the Bombardier Q400.

From Obyggdasetur. PHOTO: Larissa Kyzer.

Nordurdalur valley and on the edge of the Highlands makes it an ideal base for the diverse guided hiking, biking, and riding tours on offer, while its interactive and artfully curated historical exhibition immerses you in a bygone way of life.

From Skriduklaustur. PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson.

Episodes from several well-known novels set in the region are recreated in the exhibition, including highlights from The Good Shepherd, a be­loved Christmas tale by author Gunnar Gunnarsson. Just down the road, Gunnar’s life and legacy are celebrated in a museum established in his former home: Skriduklaustur, the site of a 15th-century monastery that Gunnar bought and had transformed into an elegant stone villa. Designed

by German architect Fritz Hoger and constructed from large local river stones, Skriduklaustur took a total of 100 labourers over a year to construct, and it still has no likeness in Iceland.

Even if your interests don’t run to literary history or architecture, there’s a lot to draw you here. In 2002, an archaeological dig unearthed the ruins of the monastery, which you can walk through today, and there’s an exhibition about the history of the site in the museum as well. After you’ve absorbed enough culture, the on-site café boasts a daily cake buffet that draws people from miles around. Dig in! Skriduklaustur is open daily from 1 April to 15 October, and other times by appointment.

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TRAVEL

East Iceland

Swimming aga inst the st rea m Chef Gudjon Runar Thorgrimsson with wild mushrooms.

There is more to Egilsstadir than meets the eye.

My wife and I agree that it sounds more like the early onset of hypo­ thermia and so we head into town to dive into some culture instead.

TEXT: Bjorn Halldorsson

At Slaturhusid, Egilsstadir’s cultural centre located in the town’s former Most of the people on the plane slaughterhouse, we find various visual are there for the swimming. The art projects. They were created by an swim across lake Urridavatn is an international group of artists led by annual event held at the end of July Berlin-based Steinunn Gunnlaugs­ that attracts many former locals to dottir, whose family hails from the Egilsstadir. “Last year there were so area. The bare concrete walls and the many swimmers, they almost ran into many signs of the building’s previous trouble,” says Svandis Sigurjonsdottir, role provide a visceral backdrop to one of the proprietors of Bokakaffid, the displays. a small coffee shop and bookstore just across the bridge over Lagarfljot For a palate cleanser, we drive 10 river. “This year, we’ll see...” she adds, minutes out of town to Vallanes, from where the Modir Jord products – eyeing the rain outside. which are at the forefront of Iceland’s Crammed to the brim with books organic food culture – originate. We and a fresh pot of coffee on the sample fermented treats and lummur brew, Bokakaffid is the ideal place (a type of Icelandic pancake) at their for such conditions. Much prefera- restaurant, The Aspen House. It’s ble to the 10°C water which awaits the first house in Iceland to be built the swimmers, who are all around us solely from locally-grown wood, all expounding the stoic sense of calm from nearby Hallorms­stadaskogur that follows the first shock of cold. Nat­ional Forest, Iceland’s largest.

PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson

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“We try to use as much as we can from the local environment,” head chef Gudjon Runar Thorgrimsson at Icelandair Hotel Herad tells us that evening. During hunting season, Gudjon himself takes to the hills to provide meat for the restaurant’s much coveted reindeer steaks. The East is the only region where reindeer live in the wild and the restaurant is one of few in Iceland to have reindeer on the menu year-round. Gudjon also helps supplying other food – he’s only able to talk to us because the mushroom picking trip he had planned with his dishwashers was cancelled due to weather.

On the plane back to Reykjavík we doze off, lulled into sleep by the drone of the engines. All around us the swimmers are basking in each other’s glow, seeming every bit as rejuvenated as they had promised.

DID YOU KNOW ...

It takes you more than 7 hours longer to drive from Reykjavik to Egilsstadir in East Iceland than fly there. By air the trip takes 60 minutes.

www.slippbarinn.is

www.aurorarestaurant.is

www.satt.is

www.vox.is

www.geirismart.is

A feast for all the senses Five unique restaurants to discover, savor and treasure.

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Maria Saevarsdottir.

Big responsibility Maria Saevarsdottir is the only woman who works as an aircraft mechanic at Air Iceland Connect. She has been involved in all aspects of the job and loves travelling the country, either by car with her trailer in tow or by plane to any of the airline’s exciting destinations.

She is always keen to get to know new countries.

TEXT: Svava Jonsdottir PHOTO: Arni Saeberg

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For people travelling to Reykjavik, what would you recommend they experience in the capital and its vicinity?

“In Reykjavik, I would advise them to go to the top of Hallgrimskirkja church or Perlan to enjoy the view of the city. Reykjadalur valley, which is only a short drive from the capital, is great for a walk outside in nature, and afterwards you can bathe in the hot stream that runs through it.

Selja­landsfoss waterfall is well known, and likewise the Secret Lagoon by Fludir. The Golden Circle is a classic and Laugarvatn Fontana spa is well worth a dip.

INTERVIEW

Air Iceland Connect

summer I worked shifts, inspecting airplanes when they arrived at night and repairing them if necessary. Sometimes tires or light bulbs had to be replaced. In winter, more thorough inspection must be carried out, depending on the time each aircraft had been in use. During these sessions, every part of the aircraft is closely reviewed – it is paramount that they are in top condition.

Since the beginning of this year, I have worked at the office and organised the maintenance work, making sure that every task is performed at the right time and that the aircraft are ready for take-off. There are two of us who take care of this job. My Why did you decide to study partner is more involved with the aircraft mechanics? daily operations while I think ahead “I studied auto mechanics before I in time and organise the larger probecame an aircraft mechanic. My jects, for example, when larger or dad, his brother, brother-in-law and smaller parts need to be replaced my granddad were all drivers and I and when each airplane is due for imagine that had an impact on what inspection. The planes are grounded I decided to study. I also thought it if they haven’t been inspected at the would be good to learn something appropriate time. If they aren’t in top condition, they don’t leave the hangpractical.

I found aircraft mechanics intrigu- ar. There is a lot of paperwork which ing so I applied for a university in Den- must be kept in order. Air mechanics ver, was admitted and set off on an is a big responsibility.” adventure. I graduated in 2001 but upon my return to Iceland I found What is the most exciting part that there were no available jobs for of your job? me in the aviation industry. I ended up selling spare parts for trucks and “The diversity. There is so much to construction machinery. I was hired to keep in mind in aircraft maintenance Air Iceland Connect in 2010. I started and the tasks are varied. Not long out as a trainee and after 30 months I ago we started using a new type of aircraft, Bombardier Q400, and passed the apprenticeship exam.” it has been very exciting to learn all about it. It’s a long process to obtain What does your job entail? the rights for each type of airplane “When I started at Air Iceland Con- and one must pass written and pracnect I worked during the day doing tical exams. The job is demanding general maintenance, screwdrivers and every day is exciting. I also have and other tools in hand. Over the the most wonderful co-workers.”

Rome and Madrid. However, I visit Scandinavia most often because I have family and friends there. I also travel in Iceland. I love camping with friends and also travel to our domestic destinations regularly, both because of work and on my own. When we renewed our fleet and stopped using Fokker 50s for scheduled flights, my son and I flew to Akureyri in North Iceland on a Fokker 50, had dinner and ice cream and then flew back to Reykjavik later that evening with one of the new Bombardier Q400s.

It was a different kind of dinner – and one well worth the trip.”

Even if you don’t have a lot of time, you can easily make a day trip to other parts of the country by flying to the destinations of Air Iceland Connect, for example to Egilsstadir, Akureyri and Isafjordur. Greenland is also within easy reach by plane. I haven’t been there myself but it’s on my bucket list.

I’ve heard amazing stories about the nature there and it’s always fun to get to know foreign cultures. I love visiting new places.”

Which places have you visited?

“I have travelled abroad a lot and go wherever I feel like. I’ve been to Malta and Hawaii and more recently to

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ACTIVITIES

Family fun

t r u o c r u o y n i s ’ l l The ba We know that most kids only need simple toys to while away the time, so leave the dollhouse and remote controlled car behind. Instead, just find a ball.

TEXT: Edda Kentish PHOTOS: shutterstock REYKJAVIK AND AKUREYRI Round objects feature in various pastimes. Like bowling. We suggest heading out to in Keilu­hollin Egilsholl (literally “the bowling palace”) in the capital’s suburbs, or the creatively-named Keilan in Akureyri. You can even bookend your visit with round food (i.e., pizza or burgers).

EGILSSTADIR For activities involving bowling balls in miniature, head out to the mini golf course out east in the town of Egilsstadir. Make a day of it and challenge each other to complete the course in the most strokes instead of the fewest.

EVERYWHERE Find a football or dodge ball and pick an empty-ish spot to pass a ball around. Parkas and jackets are excellent construction materials for make-shift goal posts, and everyone speaks the language of football. We strongly recommend avoiding piers, though. Fishing balls out of the ocean is difficult at best, dangerous at worst.

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Want to go on an Icelandic word hunt?

Solve the puzzle to find some enigmatic letter combinations. The words are written from left to right, right to left, vertically or diagonally. The first three to tag a photo of their solution with #mynorthadventure on our social media channels win an Air Iceland Connect bandana. Happy hunting!

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BOLTI MARK KEILA PITSA MINIGOLF FLUGVEL HIMINN FERD

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— — — — — — — —

BALL GOAL BOWLING PIN PIZZA MINI GOLF AIRPLANE SKY JOURNEY

Me, listening to the silence

Only hours away to the west, the Greenland ice cap guards a country and people on a calm quest for survival. Journey west, and the Faroe Islands’ northern beat colours life and culture. Venture further south to Northern Ireland and Scotland, as curious to know you as you are to know them. Where to next?

www.airicelandconnect.com

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CULTURE

Music

Music spreads its 01

Iceland Airwaves, the country’s most famous music festival, is broadening its reach and will this autumn, 1–5 November, enthral both Reykjavik and Akureyri.

TEXT: Alex Elliott. PHOTOS: Alexander Matukhno

Iceland Airwaves has been rocking the capital since 1999, when it started out as a supposedly-one-off event inside Reykjavik Airport’s hangar number four. Since then, it has migrated to the bars and small music venues of the city centre and made an indelible mark on the musical calendar.

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Airwaves has always had an international outlook, bringing the world’s best new talents to Iceland, and promoting Iceland’s finest musicians to the outside world. That’s how it became a favourite with music fans and journalists alike – many coming back year after year.

Adventuring north This year, for the first time, the festival organisers have decided to embrace a whole new city, bringing a cross-section of acts to the “northern capital” of Akureyri.

The picturesque town is a mere 45-minute flight from Reykjavik, but has a very different feel. It also boasts a

01 Mammut (IS) at Valshollin, Iceland Airwaves 2016.

02 PJ Harvey (UK) at Valshollin, Iceland Airwaves 2016.

03 FM Belfast (IS) at Harpa, Silfurberg, Iceland Airwaves 2016.

04 RuGl (IS) at Valshollin, Iceland Airwaves 2016.

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very different set of nearby attractions which make the journey north even more worthwhile.

will also play in Akureyri on 2 and 3 November. Tickets are available for Reykjavik, Akureyri, or a little bit of both.

If you venture north, you can combine the music with trips to Godafoss waterfall, Lake Myvatn, the Myvatn Nature Baths, or whale watching in either Husavik or Akureyri.

Lightly-populated North Iceland is also an excellent place to glimpse the northern lights.

This year’s festival includes high-profile concerts by Asgeir, Fleet Foxes, and a band still at the height of their international appeal: Mumford & Sons. Among other highlights are GusGus, Billy Bragg, Emiliana Torrini, Mura Masa, Aldous Harding, Futuregrapher, Daniel OG, Mammut, Aron Can, Mahalia and Vagabon. And remember: no Airwaves is complete without falling in love with at least one band you’d never heard of before, making friends with some strangers in a long queue, and feeling genuinely distraught when you discover it’s all over and done with for another year.

Discover something new Iceland Airwaves 2017 runs from 1 to 5 November and boasts concerts by at least 187 acts from Iceland and around the world. A diverse selection of 25 of these acts

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ACTIVITIES

Adventure guide

Season to taste

So, which appeals to you most?

Calm, curious or exhilarating?

TEXT: Edda Kentish

PHOTO: Hilton Reykjavik

If you’re visiting Iceland this autumn, you might have planned on catching culture or wandering through the wilderness. To give you some inspiration, we’ve collected adventure ideas to fit any level, because we know that adventure ranges from scaling a precipice or braving a five-day hike to sitting with a cuppa in search of the northern lights.

PHOTO: Efstidalur

PHOTO: shutterstock

Calm

Curious

Exhilarating

Why fly to Iceland to just stay indoors? Well, if you’re getting pampered, then that’s reason enough.

Obviously, we’re firm believers in our Icelandic pampering products made from Icelandic herbs, silica and clay.

So, a visit to the Blue Lagoon Spa in either Reykjanes or Reykjavik, the Soley Natura Spa at the Natura Hotel in Reykjavik, or the admittedly different Beer Baths in North Iceland will leave you soft, mellow, and glowing.

In the best possible way.

Explore Iceland’s broad farm-to-table culture by hitting up local farms.

Efstidalur in South Iceland even offers a cowshed café, where you can take in the rustic atmosphere and enjoy ice cream made on-site with produce from the curious – and even cute – cattle. And if you’re in the Northeast, the rye bread baked by Kaffi Borgir is everything you never knew you wanted from a warm loaf of bread.

If you haven’t had your fill of flying yet, we suggest you try soaring, too.

Paragliding is growing in popularity in Iceland, so test your limits with a qualified instructor at the handful of braveheart operators. Some even offer zip-lining if you want to make your way to the skies in stages. Hit up some of the operators in South Iceland, like in Vik, or on the outskirts of the capital, to find experienced and enthusiastic guides.

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Adventure awaits EGILSSTADIR Wild reindeer and warm nature bath

AKUREYRI Akureyri and surroundings

WE KNOW THE NORTH. AND WE’D LIKE TO INTRODUCE YOU TO EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY. ARE YOU READY?

Book your day tour online and explore our north LAKE MYVATN Waterside wildlife and curious natural formations

DETTIFOSS Dettifoss grand tour

Look for even more adventures online.

They’re hiding in plain sight. www.airicelandconnect.com/tours

PHOTOGRAPHY

Nature

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Adventure by Instagram Share your northern adventure with the world, using the hashtag #mynorthadventure. A selection of photos will be published on the Air Iceland Connect website and social media channels and the cream of the crop on the pages of this magazine, too.

01 Grenivik, Sudur-Thingeyjarsysla, Iceland @sotes9 Whale hello there.

02 Kangertittivaq @japatta Just back from a wonderful sailing trip on the #Scorebysund and on the way for the next adventure already! thx @starling_reizen,@yves_ adams @bartheirweg and the nice group of people 03 Iceland @andyyzhu Moody fox.

Please note that by using the #mynorthadventure hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine, website, and on our social media channels.

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04 Breiddalsvik @markustrienke #peaceful #easticeland near #breiðalsvik #iceland #mynorthadventure

PHOTOGRAPHY

Nature

Russell Glacier @runartheo Biking the Arctic circle trail #mynorthadventure #arctictrail2017 #spaðar #ibisisland #ibiscycles #markið

And the winner is…

We received so many amazing entries for our photo contest that we decided to name a winner, even though the image didn’t end up on the cover as it wasn’t shot from above. The choice was tough, but in the end Runar Theodors­son’s shot of mountain biking in Ilulissat – capturing the colourful tundra and cold and mysterious Greenland ice cap – stood out.

Do you want to participate in our photo contest?

Tag your favourite image from any of our destinations with #mynorthadventure and the winning shot will appear in the next issue of My North. Bird’s-eye view is our favourite angle. The photographer will win a flight to any of Air Iceland Connect’s destinations in Iceland.

Click away!

Runar wins a flight to any of Air Iceland Connect’s destinations in Iceland. Congratulations!

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Hidden ice fjord Get to know Greenland.

Nuuk, Greenland, 63° N, +15° C, 10/8, 11:59

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TRAVEL

Greenland

TEXT AND PHOTOS: Benjamin Hardman

Sailing into the hidden ice fjord revealed some truly interesting sides of Nuuk’s history. Old fishing cabins and abandoned settlements line the inner fjord edges, some of which have been left standing for over a thousand years.

At the convergence point of multiple fjords, whales swim within the flowing tidal movements in search of food.

With depths up to 600 metres (almost 2,000 feet), it can be daunting yet somewhat exhilarating to stand out on

the back of the boat and look down into the deep blue sub-Arctic waters.

Heading deeper into the fjord, we approached the first of many monstrous icebergs that make their way out to sea from Greenland’s Ice Cap. Floating over extremely calm waters, we listened as massive chunks of ice calved from the face of the glacier, echoing through the ice-ridden waters. Surrounded by such pure elements of nature, we left feeling deeply connected to the hidden ice fjord.

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Follow in the footsteps of gia nts An hour’s drive north of Belfast, discover legend, history and Game of Thrones locations along Northern Ireland’s most scenic drive, the Causeway Coast.

TEXT AND PHOTOS: Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford

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TRAVEL

Northern Ireland

01 The Giant’s Causeway is made up of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns.

02 The Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.

03 Dunluce Castle coat of arms.

04 On the Causeway Coast, the roaring North Atlantic is your backdrop.

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Salute Samson and Goliath (twin shipbuilding gantry cranes), bypass Ballymena – the city of Seven Towers – and descend under The Dark Hedges to reach Ireland’s northernmost coast, embarking upon a coastal drive widely regarded as “an epic”.

With the roaring North Atlantic as your backdrop, hit the open road straddling sheer cliffs, meandering through sleepy seaside villages and uncovering Northern Ireland’s stunning natural beauty town-bytown. From the cosmopolitan capital of Belfast curving around the island’s north-eastern tip to the walled city of Derry-Londonderry, the Causeway Coast’s mid-point is the eponymous and iconic Giant’s Causeway. A 50-million-year-old

geological wonder and UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the Giant’s Causeway is steeped in myth and legend and is a true symbol of Northern Ireland.

With your heart in your throat, take a deep breath and step off the edge.

Eastwards towards Belfast, take your chances traversing the (seemingly) treacherous Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.

Connecting the mainland to a tiny island since the 1750s, originally erected by local salmon fishermen, a 30-metre (98-foot) deep and 20-metre (66-foot) wide chasm is crossed only one way – a rope bridge allowing just eight people at a time. Further along, seek out the

pretty seaside towns of Cushendun and Cushdenall.

Continuing west to Derry, walk within Dunluce Castle, a ruined medieval castle town perched atop a cliff, and the 18th century estate Downhill Demense with its vacant outpost of Mussenden Temple. A coastal drive is never complete without a seafood feast and Harry’s Shack, located right on the sands of Portstewart Strand, is the award-winning fish restaurant that’s fit to feed any giant or mere mortal who passes its doors.

DID YOU KNOW ...

Bombardier Q400 has a wingspan of 28.4 metres (93 feet), which is the length of a basketball court.

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NEWS

Air Iceland Connect

Connecting the dots There’s always something happening at Air Iceland Connect.

Here’s a brief roundup of the most newsworthy events of the past few months.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir

Mammut, Iceland Airwaves 2016 PHOTO: Alexander Matukhno

Music on the move

Award for Air Iceland Connect

Swimming and forging friendships

The 19th edition of Iceland Airwaves will take place 1–5 November 2017.

This year, for the first time, concerts will not only be held in Reykjavik but also in Akureyri, North Iceland.

About 25 Icelandic and international acts are scheduled to play there 2–3 November, including Asgeir, Emiliana Torrini, Mura Masa, Stefflon Don, Daniel OG, Mammut and Aron Can. The festival’s expansion was made possible by founding sponsors Icelandair and Air Iceland Connect.

Various travel and ticket packages are available, and direct flights are offered to Akureyri from Reykjavik and Keflavik. For further information, go to www.icelandairwaves.is and www.airicelandconnect.is. Read more about the festival on page 26.

Vestnorden Travel Mart 2017 was held in Nuuk (one of Air Iceland Connect’s six destinations in Greenland), 18–19 September. At the travel mart, Air Iceland Connect won the Vestnorden Travel Award 2017 for excellence concerning innovation, responsibility and sustainability. This business-to-business trade show is an annual marketplace jointly promoting the three West Nordic countries: Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Several hundred buyers and sellers meet during two intensive days to focus on tourism trade in the West Nordic Region. The travel mart rotates between Iceland and the other West Nordic countries; next year it will be held in Akureyri, North Iceland.

Twenty-three 11-year-old children from six villages in eastern Greenland came to Iceland for two weeks in September to attend swimming lessons and study with their Icelandic peers in Kopavogur elementary school.

On weekdays, they went swimming twice daily and in between attended classes at school. They also travelled to Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir hot spring, went skating, horseback riding, to the zoo, cinema and theatre.

They also visited President of Iceland Gudni Th. Johannesson. The first group of Greenlandic children came to Iceland for this purpose in 2006.

Organised by KALAK, the IcelandGreenland friendship association, the initiative is sponsored by Air Iceland Connect and others.

Fast facts about Air Iceland Connect

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planes in Air Iceland Connect’s fleet

36

240 employees

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international airports

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99%

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400,000

destinations

destinations in Iceland

reliability of scheduled flights at Egilsstadir Airport

passengers go through Reykjavik Airport annually

SERVICE

Air Iceland Connect

On-board experience Feeling hungry? Fancy a treat? Here are some tips as to how you can enjoy your flight even more.

Sit back, relax and enjoy your journey. The Air Iceland Connect crew will do their utmost to make your flight as pleasant and comfortable as possible. If you need anything, you can call a cabin attendant by using the call button above your seat. On all Air Iceland Connect flights, passengers receive a complimentary beverage: coffee, tea or water.

Passengers on international flights can also buy refreshments: snacks, sandwiches, delicious skyr, as well as alcoholic beverages. If you’re interested in duty-free shopping while in the air, take a look at the brochure in the seat pocket in front of you and browse through the selection of goods available at a bargain price. Passengers on flights to Belfast and Aberdeen can borrow iPads for on-board entertainment.

Environmental policy We recognise that our activities have an impact on the environment in terms of the use of raw materials, emissions to air and water, and waste generation, and we seek to minimise this as far as is reasonably practicable.

Air Iceland Connect is committed to operating in a sustainable and environmentally sound manner, complying with all applicable legislation, environmental standards and other relevant requirements and commitments. This policy shall apply to all activities carried out by or on behalf of Air Iceland Connect and to locations in which we operate.

Shared stories We would love to hear about your travels. In the seat pocket is a journal where passengers who have sat in this seat before you have made some notes about their travel experiences. What did you discover on your trip?

Pick up a pen and share your adventures with future travellers the oldfashioned way.

Air Iceland Connect has achieved the Gold Award from Vakinn’s environmental criteria.

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DESTINATIONS

Air Iceland Connect

My first dog sled trip x Crossed the Arctic Circle (check!) x

x Amaz ing northern lights!

Best fresh fish ever! x

x The Rock Museum rocks!

Shape your adventure You’ve arrived in Iceland. So why not explore the northern region a little further? Our partnerships, route network and innate curiosity mean you’re never more than a decision away from your next adventure.

→ Visit our website www.airicelandconnect.com and make it happen.

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Take-offs and touchdowns The beginning and end of a terrific journey, Air Iceland Connect’s main airports are not just for passing through.

REYKJAVIK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT In the heart of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik Airport serves as the centre for domestic flights in Iceland. It’s located in Vatnsmyri, where aviation in Iceland began on September 3, 1919, with the take-off of the first airplane in the country. Scheduled flights from Reykjavik Airport were launched in March 1940, when Air Iceland moved its headquarters from Akureyri to Reykjavik.

Sightseeing by helicopter x (yes!)

Definitely x the next trip x Touched by the fate of the Tita nic

AKUREYRI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Located in North Iceland’s largest town, Akureyri International Airport is the gateway to the Arctic. From there, scheduled flights are offered to several locations in Iceland, including Grimsey island in the North, as well as Thorshofn and Vopnafjordur in the Northeast. International flights from Akureyri include scheduled and charter flights to Greenland. Akureyri International Airport is also the centre for ambulance and emergency flights in Iceland.

EGILSSTADIR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Egilsstadir International Airport serves as an alternate for Keflavik International Airport and is open 24 hours a day. Located on the banks of Lagarfljot river in Iceland’s tranquil East, the airport is just a short drive away from Hallormsstadaskogur National Forest, serene seaside towns at the foot of majestic mountains and other attractions.

ISAFJORDUR AIRPORT Isafjordur is the base for exploring Iceland’s Westfjords and some of the country’s most rural and isolated areas. The flight approach is an adventurous experience on its own – enjoy the thrill as you descend at the end of the majestic Isafjardardjup fjord, the view of the many smaller fjords that fork out of it and the tall mountains all around.

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FLEET

Air Iceland Connect

Towards the

In the Age of Settlement they embarked on a journey into the unknown with their loved ones. The five Bombardier aircraft in our fleet are named after women settlers and Icelandic saga heroines. Still flying high, we uphold their legacies with pride.

Aud the Deep-Minded TF-FXA Q400

Hallgerd Long-Pants TF-FXB Q400

Thorun the Horned TF-FXI Q400

Aud the Deep-Minded was the only woman to lead a settlement expedition to Iceland. She was considered peerless among women, provident and wise, as witnessed by her epithet. She took leave of her husband and sailed to Iceland along with her crew. It is said that her settlement extended across all the valleys of Breidafjordur in West Iceland. Aud was a Christian and was considered to be particularly noble and generous. She gave large estates in her settlement to her crew and made her home at the current church estate of Hvammur in Dalir.

The most infamous heroine of the Icelandic sagas was dashing, long-haired and beautiful. Extremely proud, Hallgerd never took orders from anyone.

She started a feud with her neighbour Bergthora; and Hallgerd’s husband, Gunnar, had to pay for a slap he gave her with his life. When besieged by his enemies, Gunnar begged Hallgerd for a lock of her hair to repair his bowstring. She refused and he was killed.

But what was the source of her epithet? One explanation is that Hallgerd had particularly long legs. Another that she was originally called “Langbrok”, which means “long-haired”.

Does her epithet refer to a shawl she wore over her head or shoulders? Along with her husband, Helgi the Lean, Thorun the Horned settled in Eyjafjordur, Northeast Iceland, and was the first woman to do so.

Thorun was the sister of Aud the Deep-Minded, the most famous of all women settlers. While Thorun and Helgi sailed into the fjord, looking for a place to build their farm, Thorun gave birth to a daughter on a small holm in Eyjafjardara river. Their daughter, Thorbjorg Holme-sun, was the first native-born resident of Eyjafjordur.

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unknown

Wind beneath our wings Q400

Q200 In 2015, Air Iceland Connect exchanged their Fokker 50 aircraft for Bombardier Q400s. They are larger and 30% faster than conventional turboprop aircraft and therefore offer new opportunities. In addition to being used for domestic flights, the Bombardier Q400s fly a steadily increasing number of passengers to Greenland, as well as to destinations in Britain.

Air Iceland Connect was already operating two Bombardier Q200 aircraft. They have certain qualities: they require a short runway (e.g., they can take off when fully­ loaded from an 800 metre/2,625-foot runway), can withstand a stronger side wind than comparable aircraft and can carry more freight. The Bombardier Q200 can be specifically configured for cargo transport.

→ Read more about our fleet at www.airicelandconnect.com.

Arndis the Wealthy TF-FXG Q200

Thurid the Sound-Filler TF-FXK Q200

Her father was a settler in Dalir, but she wished to choose her own land.

Arndis the Wealthy settled in Hrutafjordur, Northwest Iceland. Her epithet suggests that she acquired wealth while presiding over her estate. Little is known about Arndis, as written documentation is scarce.

However, if one reads between the lines it is clear that she was a powerful woman who defied the patriarchy.

Arndis married Bjalki Blaengsson but their son Thordur became known by his matronymic surname: Arndisarson.

Thordur later appeared as a character in Kormaks Saga, a poetic love story.

She was known as a volva and was said to be well-versed in magic when she settled in Bolungarvik, the Westfjords. She was called “sound-filler” due to her ability to cast spells that filled every sound with herring. As thanks for her spell, each farmer in the area awarded her with a hornless ewe. Her son was the poet Volu-Stein Thuridarson. His father was unknown.

DID YOU KNOW ...

Air Iceland Connect flies to 17 destinations, which equals the number of inhabited islands of the Faroe Islands archipelago?

They are 18 in total.

Our extended family Air Iceland Connect is part of Icelandair Group, an Icelandic travel industry corporation. The corporation is the largest in Iceland, posting USD 89 million in profit in 2016. Icelandair Group is the owner and holding company of the airline Icelandair and several other travel industry companies in Iceland. Its headquarters are at Reykjavik Airport.

ICELANDAIR GROUP SUBSIDIARIES: Air Iceland Connect FERIA (Vita Travel) Fjarvakur Icelandair Icelandair Cargo Icelandair Hotels Iceland Travel IGS, Icelandair Ground Services Loftleidir Icelandic

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INFORMATION

Air Iceland Connect

Safety first

Your safety is our priority. Here are some guidelines to help ensure you have a good on and off-board travel experience.

Inside the plane Please follow our safety demonstration closely and read the instructions on the safety card in your seat pocket.

Kindly follow the guidance and suggestions of the cabin crew throughout the flight. The use of mobile phones and electronic devices on flight mode is allowed gate to gate.

Cabin baggage should be stored in the overhead compartments or under the seat in front of you. We recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened for the duration of the flight. Smoking is prohibited on all Air Iceland Connect flights. That also includes vaping.

Gigjokull. PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson

Out in the wild When travelling in the Nordic region, be prepared for extreme weather conditions, even in the summer. Also bear in mind that the environment is fragile and that careless actions, such as off-road driving, can have irreversible consequences.

In Iceland, thousands for volunteers of the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) are looking out for your safety. If you are planning a trek, please leave a copy of your itinerary at www.safetravel.is. Also visit the website for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest travelling conditions. For all excursions, please observe these tips:

→ When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol. → On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation. → Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions. → Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter. → Off-road driving is illegal. → When hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water and wind-resistant clothes, gloves and hats.

Emergency numbers Iceland and Europe: 112 North America: 911 United Kingdom: 999 / 112 FXI-OPS 030-e rev 0

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→ Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs.

When waves are big, stay far away from the sea; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean. → If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you. → The Search and Rescue Association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website www.safetravel.is. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app.